April 2023

Page 1

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

Publishers Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors Dan Bisbee, Mark Byers, Richard Leisenring, Jr., Dr. Seymour O’Life

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phone 973.948.4176

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2023. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without speci c written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed suf cient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip &Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

Page 2 MONTHLY COLUMNS FREE WHEELIN’ 3 WHATCHATHINKIN’................................... 4 ON THE MARK 5 BACKLASH............................................... 7 INDUSTRY INFOBITES 8 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA ..........................10 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ...............................12 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN .........14 BIG CITY GETAWAY .................................16 INSIDE SCOOP .......................................19 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE ....................40 FEATURES JACOBS LADDER SCENIC BYWAY ..........21 GARDEN PARTY SPRING RIDES ..............24 GET IN GEAR ..........................................29 ROCK + ROLL STEAMPUNK FAIR ............32 GLENN CURTISS LEGACY .......................36 PRODUCTS NELSON RIGG BAGS AND STRAPS .........39
INSIDE 16 21 24 36 ON THE COVER: PETER DUNN’S SUNRISE ON THE WAY TO BIKES + BREAKFAST RUN
WHAT’S

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN

SHARINGTHE BACKROADS…

The thought for this month’s Free Wheelin’ got its start atop the Hawks Nest – a curvaceous bit of roadway along the upper part of the Delaware River.

I was making my way south towards the Tri-State border, and I had pulled off to one of the wayside areas to take in the river view and the sun as it began to slide ever westward towards the evening sunset.

I have been here countless times before and it is never unusual to get a beep of a horn as another traveler passed by. Usual rider to rider.

But today it was different - as it was driver to driver and neither of us were on bikes, but rather cars – in particular we both were piloting Subaru WRXs. His an older, more classic machine, mine the last of the STi’s. This was a rst for me – but I realized that with a new acquisition for the barn, I had joined a new tribe as well.

A long time ago…motor-scribe and all-around nice guy Bill Heald penned a now and again column in Backroads called Gilded Cages –which featured some very high-end and sporty machinery of the fourwheel persuasion.

The column’s named played with the fairly jejunic catch-phrase that some ‘bikers’ like to throw at anyone who happens to be in an automobile of some type. As if any of these ‘hard-core’ riders do not look longingly at that BMW M-coupe when it passes them in a rain storm?

The actual meaning of the Gilded Cage is simple: A place which is super cially attractive but nevertheless constraining; a comfortable but con ned situation.

Hmmm – the wind ew around my shaven pate far more in Shira’s Audi A4 Cabriolet than it ever did over my helmet. Just sayin.’

Said Audi has been part of the family for almost two decades. Super car, but after all the years, it was getting long in the tooth. When things start to go south with a vehicle near two-decades old you either keep on top of it, or start looking for another ride.

The search for a second ride – more toy than transport - was on… and, it was a bit harder than we thought it would be.

When I rst started dating Shira, I had a Datsun 280Z 2+2, built before the name change and the Mets last won the series. With a wave of nostalgia Shira began a search for the new Nissan Z – but, at this time, they were few and far between.

I aimed high, the Ave Maria, and made my desire for a Mustang Mach 1 very apparent. Shira rightly asked what would we do with 480 horses, rear wheel drive and little room? I did not want to mention that the Nissan was of the same ilk.

But, lurking in the shadows…

A few years back, while attending CLASS Riding School at Virginia International Raceway, the south track was holding a school of another type – this by Subaru for their various dealers in the mid-Atlantic. While we were taking a lunch break, a number of BRZs and WRXs came rolling up to the small trackside café. Amongst them was one silver STi.

For those who are not familiar with this four-door sedan – the rst WRXs were souped-up Imprezas – built to race World Rally Cup.

WRX stood for World Rally eXperimental, and for a decade their big gun was the WRX STi; and this car was a Japan-only machine. STi stood for Subaru Tecnica international, which is essentially a name to describe Subaru’s own motorsports program. (Continued on Page 6)

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023 Page 3

DON’T BE ADICK

We’ve all run into them – hopefully not literally. Out on a beautiful day, enjoying the fresh air and in tune with your motorcycle. All is right in the world. And then it appears. Either coming at you or up behind you, could be two wheels or four, a vehicle with the only thing on her/his mind is themselves.

We were on a ride out west, heading from Suzuki’s home in Brea, CA to AIMExpo, the industry’s gathering in Las Vegas, NV. I was on a very familiar-to-me V-Strom 650 while Brian was piloting Suzuki’s newest sport-touring GSX-S1000GT+. We managed to make it through the sand storms, wind gusts and freezing temperatures on the way there. I have never ridden in anything like that before, and can say that I hope I never do again. While trying to make it through the town of Pahrump, NV, the visibility was practically zero. Brian and I could not see each other, and we were only a few bike lengths apart. Coming towards us was a white SUV and I hoped that the driver was able to see us. Apparently she did, as she was ashing her lights and, as she was passing me, she rolled down her window to communicate something. With the gusts gusting and sand blasting, I wasn’t about to slow down to hear what she had to say. If it was something like, ‘You shouldn’t be out here, you’re in danger’ we were well aware of that already.

I relate this incident only to contrast the concern of another driver for our wellbeing to the other incidents we encountered on this ride.

On our way back to Suzuki after leaving the desert, our thoughts were to vector towards Julian, CA, for the obligatory perfect slice of apple pie. The riding in this part of the state is excellent; scenic, twisty and bucolic. We were in absolutely no rush, just enjoying the motorcycles and that, on this day, the weather was pretty well perfect. For the most part we had the roads to ourselves at this point. As we got closer to Julian, we came upon a few other vehicles. Again, we were not rushing, nor crowding or even attempting to pass any of them. Brian was riding in front of me with a car in front of him. As we came out of some slightly curvy roadway onto a straightaway, suddenly the car in front decided to very abruptly pull off, at a speed too signi cant for the gravel into which it was stopping. Brian rode past the car and I watched, and slowed down, as it began to shtail in the gravel, coming close to completely spinning out. Had it done so, I have no doubt that it would have gone right into me as there really was no place for me to go. Fortunately, the driver came to a stop as I was passing. I suppose had I glanced over, I might have seen a very wide-eyed person gripping the steering wheel.

My statement to Brian as we continued on was, ‘Be alert. The world needs more lerts.’ Brian and I stopped at the Julian Pie Company and discussed what just happened. We were clueless as to why the sudden pull-off by the driver. We had not been aggressively riding behind her/him. We didn’t even have the extra lights we sport on our rides back home. We were expecting the car to pull into the parking lot to berate us, and then we could at least nd out what happened. The car never appeared and we continued on our way.

Heading down the mountain, which is another fabulous piece of tarmac, we found all the traf c we had previously not had. What can you do? There is little clear line of sight on this road to safely make any passes so we sat back and bided our time. (Continued on Page 6)

Page 4 BACKROADS • APRIL 2023
WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL

ON THE MARK MARK BYERS

HELMET HEAD

I keep my hair short. It’s ironic, because in the 70’s, I wanted to grow long hair like other kids, but my parents wouldn’t let me. It was a source of teasing and tweenage angst. Eventually they relented, resulting in some of my worst hairstyles ever. Don’t ask about the afro phase and the black- st pick I carried to uff my fro. If the term “cultural appropriation” existed before this “age of offendedism,” I was in the thick of it.

A foofy coiffure is a liability because riding a motorcycle requires you to cram aberglass shell of beer cooler material down over your tresses and fasten it with a nylon strap. My metal ake half-helmet with the snap-on bubble visor did things to my hair that no amount of work with a pick or pitchfork could put right; consequently, I had to walk around all day with a misshapen head that looked more like it belonged in the pages of an Anthropology text than a yearbook.

I eventually realized helmets and hair are natural enemies. There are a few who make them coexist: Dangerous Dan’s wife can wear her blonde “do” in a punky, spiky way and when she removes her helmet, the spikiness is intact. She must have hair gel that would make what Cameron Diaz used

in “Something About Mary” pale by comparison. I have never had that luck and when I remove a helmet, my hair is plastered to the sides of my head like I just spent hours with my head in an oily vise.

Rarely, I see a television commercial where a model removes her helmet and shakes her lovely tresses to have them fall perfectly across her designer jacket and I call “BULLSHIT!” Wearing a helmet makes you look like a wet dog that escaped the groomer mid-bath. I’ve tried a few solutions but the most expedient remedy is a haircut. At sixty, no one expects my personal hygiene to be at the top of its game, so a few cockeyed locks are as par for the course as my white Adidas golf shoes.

I now like haircuts and I use old-fashioned barbers, people who still practice the clipper, snipper, and shave cuts from my youth. One of my barbers ran a red-hot card game in the back of his shop and if the place was empty, I’d peek into a back room, where he’d look up from his cards through the miasma of smoke, and say, “You’re not in a hurry, are you?” I’d say, “Joe, if I was in a hurry, I wouldn’t have come here.”

The rst time I ever went to his shop, the place was full, so I started looking for a seat when he popped the apron and said, “C’mon handsome, you’re next!” When I glanced around at all the people, he said, “They’re just here to bullshit!” and bade me sit down. Sometimes he’d be alone, but would say, “You’re not in a hurry, are you?” and we’d go next door so he could have a cup of fresh coffee and a cigarette. Joe gave some interesting cuts, but the humanity was good.

Getting a haircut is intimate. There’s the courting of combing, followed by a delicate dance between clippers and scissors. There’s a soft placement of a hand on your head to position it in exactly the right place for the artist. The gentle sweep of the powdered brush takes hairs from your forehead and nose: Bob Ross would have envied their technique. Continued on Page 6

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023 Page 5

FREE WHEELIN’ Continued from Page 3

Subaru eventually brought the STi into the States and this was one of the rst I had gotten to see up close… not counting the opening chase scene from Baby Driver. (Great lm, superb driving, outstanding soundtrack)

I ride a GS – not the most elegant of machines – but one of the best motorcycles on the planet. I felt the same way about this car. Not drop dead sexy as the Z or the ‘Stang… but it still had that certain something that some people seem to exude without even trying. A built in, not initially apparent, sexy charm. Like the girl in C, S & N’s Fair Game.

Shira could not get past the wing. Yes, it has a wing. But it is also a cavernous four-door sedan, that doesn’t take shit.

We both readily admit that the Rex’ is a beast and blast to drive. You truly need to pilot this machine, not simply go for a ride. The STi demands you keep your head in the game – just like riding a motorcycle. We have had dozens of motorcycles over our decades together, and we really never gave it much thought, about cars that is, until the STi came along. Looking back, with cars like the Stealth, RX7, Z4, A4 and the old Datsun Z…? It seems we had been moto-junkies for a long time, but like many addictions didn’t seem to see anything as a problem.

It’s okay. They’ll be no rehab, or 12-step program for this one. Maybe you might have this same problem too – I know many of you do. (Gary, I did not mention your name - oops)

In fact, as the years have gone by, more and more of you kids, our readers, have been faced with the realization that motorcycles might be more of a task than a pleasure and many of our readers and friends have shown up at our rallies with some serious automobiles.

M-BMWs, Mustangs and Corvettes. And, you know what? They are all so welcome.

So… life moves on and like a great road trip the terrain can and will change a bit from time to time, but the ride, the journey and the adventure are still the same.

So, if you see a bit more 4-wheel vehicles, product or air in these pages…Enjoy it – we’re gonna share the backroads with everybody! ,

WHATCHATHINKIN’

Continued from Page 4

We take CLASS every year and Reg Pridmore has his ‘Rules of the Road.’ One of the top, if not the top, rules is restraint. On the track, crowding or passing in dangerous or inappropriate spots not only endangers other riders on the track, it’s just plain idiotic. I think that should be taught in every Driver’s Ed course given.

You know what’s coming, right? From the back of the pack of traf c came a vehicle picking off cars one by one, with no concern for oncoming traf c or startling those it was passing. There were some very close calls but eventually it did make its way to the front of the line. What was the hurry, we’ll never know?

Most of you reading Backroads take your riding seriously. You take courses, do some track days, do what you can to evolve and enhance your riding skills. As I said in the beginning of this piece, we’ve all encountered them but do your best to stay away and, for your own sake and others on the road, don’t be a dick. ,

ON THE MARK

Continued from Page 5

The loosening of the apron and tissue allows access to the ne hairs at the back of your neck. The warm sweep of shaving cream around your ears and neck allow the straight razor to do precision work without ravaging your skin.

I like a denouement of a hand lightly kissed with tonic of just the right smell being run through my hair: it’s a good memory and it ghts the slight wet dog smell of a helmet. There’s a peace from having someone care for your head that way and I have had haircuts that were so good that I didn’t want them to stop. Suzi at Naval Air Station Whiting Field used to nish with a brief shiatsu head massage that was heavenly.

There’s not much you can do with the sparse crop atop my skull. One of my barbers will jokingly hand me a mirror…with the shiny side facing away from me. I’ll hand it back, saying, “I guess you did the best you could.” We grin, shake hands, I give him some money and say, “See you next time.” He’ll reply, “Tell mama I said ‘Hi.’” Some of the haircuts are better than others, but at least now I don’t get helmet head. ,

Page 6 BACKROADS • APRIL 2023

Dear Brian and Shira,

Another month, another great issue. Loved Brian’s revelation about how music makes a difference. It’s sure rocked my world, the one constant in tumultuous times. As my mother, a fantastic pianist, always reminded me (a less fantastic violinist): “No matter what, the notes remain.” And they have. And so has Backroads.

XO, Barb Hoffman, aka Mrs. Seymour O’Life

I see that you mentioned Gryphon in Backroads.  Last Americade, Cathie bought a jacket from them, perfect t.  I showed them my Welsh Dragon, which resembled a gryphon and asked what I get for the dragon. They sent us two puff jackets, free of charge. Nice company, and really nice people.

Dick & Cathie Roberts

I love your magazine (and emails – The Backroads Report), so when I saw the Spring Break 2023 I had to jump.  I have booked all of the hotels (Riverview was full, so I booked the River Edge Inn), and have my ticket to the MOA rally.

Do you need anything else from me? Do I need to sign-up for Spring Break 2023, ll out a form, or send some $?

If not, just let me know what time to arrive at the Cork Factory Hotel!!

Thanks, Andrew Andrew,

That’s great and we look forward to seeing you! As has been for the last 25 years, we charge not a penny for our rallies. The cost is simply what you spend. No sign up, no waivers, zilch, nada. Just come along, meet some ne folks, have some great rides and ENJOY YOURSELF. Pretty simple. Folks should start arriving mid to late afternoon on June 8 at the Cork Factory, probably nd them milling around the bar.

Hi Brian, Hi Shira!

I am moving to Colorado and will really miss the east coast rider scene that y’all have enriched for me over the years. I need to update my mailing address so I keep getting the mag. Do you have a certain format or procedure or do I just give it to you here? Thanks!

Colorado – lucky gal! Some of the nest riding around. Just email your new address and we’ll take care of the rest. Safe travels!

You all are making me cry! A Baseball Park Tour de Force! Wow! Great ride report in the Golden State! Bravo Shira and Brian! And thanks again for sharing!!

Rob Roth • Wyomissing PA

Tale of Two Rivers Winner

It may not be “apparent” but may I say the recurring geo theme is the renaming of the two rivers and a lake several times.

Cheers, Gery Torak

Attention. Here’s an update on last month’s contest. It was veal. I repeat, veal. The winner of tonight’s mystery meat contest is Gery who guessed “some kind of beef.” Congraulations, Gery. You’ve just won a brand new Chrysler Cordoba and you can pick it up at Morty’s of ce.

This was one of the most interesting issues that I devoured cover-to-cover. Years ago I was with a

friend who bought a 1947 Jaguar Mk IV from Connecticut and drove it back to Chicago… almost. We got as far as Mechanicsburg when a wheel bearing froze. That was on a Saturday afternoon. A garage guy helped us on Monday to replace the wheel bearing and we were back on our way by noon. Having driven east-west multiple times on PA Turnpike I know that stop very well and will make the effort to visit the Rolls-Royce museum. I liked learning about Claude Johnson, aka the “Hyphen” in the brand name.

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023 Page 7
BACKLASH Letters to the Editor
Burt Richmond

EXCITEMENT REVS UPFOR GETTYSBURG BIKE WEEK MOTORCYCLE RALLY

The excitement surrounding  Gettysburg Bike Week’s  23rd year this summer is getting a little bit louder, thanks to a “Devil Without a Cause” and one of the most popular bike week musical acts in America.

Kid Kentucky and the American BadAss Band have been added as the musical headliner for opening night on Thursday, July 6, 2023. Kid Kentucky is the nation’s premiere Kid Rock tribute band, performing all the greatest hits from the legendary Michigan rocker. From “Bawitdaba” to “All Summer Long,” this Nashville tribute band is sure to hit all the right notes and get Bike Week started right at the Allstar Events Complex in Gettysburg, PA.

Night Ranger headlines the festivities on Saturday, July 9th. Friday night’s musical main event is one of the most famous lead guitarists in the world, who played for one of the most-successful rock bands in histo-

ry: Ace Frehley. Frehley is known as the lead guitar player for mega rock band KISS, but he’s also enjoyed a storied solo career and released albums on his own that have gone platinum.

Gettysburg Bike Week also features one of the largest vendor villages and swap meet; the alwaysanticipated Antique Bike Show; the Third Annual Jeremy Plank Memorial Ride (aka the Battleeld Ride of Chrome); the Moto Motion Stunt Show; fun bike games; a massive Cornhole tournament; beautiful and vivacious Gin Gypsies slinging drinks and much, much more.

And, of course, no rally would be complete without great riding, and Gettysburg has some of the best. Whether riders want to see historic battlegrounds or just hit the road for a great cruise, hundreds of miles of the best riding in the East surrounds Gettysburg. In addition to fantastic solo riding, GBW also features awesome group rides, including the Sgt. Mac Fund and New Hope Ministries Poker Runs and the Battle eld Ride of Chrome.

New and returning riders can nd updates, schedule of events, lodging information, passes and anything they ever needed to know about Eastern Pennsylvania’s de nitive motorcycle rally Gettysburg Bike Week by visiting www. gettysburgbikeweekcom

AIMEXPO 2023 HITS NEW HIGHS

The motorcycle industry’s big show in Las Vegas –AIMExpo - was held in Mid-February and we were more than pleased with the event.

After a hard-hit slowdown due to worldly events and other factors it was great to see the industry begin a long-awaited course-correction. Almost 1,700 dealers and retailers attended to walk the long aisles of the Las Vegas Convention Center. Some 330 total exhibitors were on hand; with nearly 1,850 exhibitor staff. There were 450 af liated industry professionals, and 150 members of the press in attendance as well.

In addition to the many, varied and interesting vendors and industry members to be found in Vegas, there were a long list of seminars touching on a broad swath of motorcycle industry-related issue, as well as events and… Hell – we were in Las Vegas baby!

We had hoped to see the industry doing a bit better – but we found things, products and people all VERY pumped about the future, and we walked away very enthused about our industry’s future.

Page 8 BACKROADS • APRIL 2023
INDUSTRY INFOBITES News from the Inside DON’T SUFFER FROM FOMO GO TO OUR FACEBOOK PAGE AND FOLLOW US FOR UP-TO-THE-MINUTE NEWS • IMPROMPTU RIDES www.facebook.com/pages Backroads-Motorcycle-Touring-Magazine

THE ICONIC ITALIAN MOTORCYCLE BRAND MOTO MORINI ENTERS US MARKET

Moto Morini is pleased to announce their entrance into the American market. With the addition of the United States, Moto Morini further increases their rapidly growing global presence which includes operations in Italy, India, and Asia.

Moto Morini, the legendary Italian motorcycle

Moto Morini is now accepting new dealer application and hiring dealer development and product support personnel. Please email contact@ MotoMorini.com for more information.

MOTOREX USAACQUIRES SPECTRO PERFORMANCE OILS

Motorex USA, the US-af liate of Swiss-based Motorex Group, has agreed with Intercontinental Lubricants Corporation from Brook eld CT to acquire the Spectro Performance Oils business. The deal includes all national and international activities as well as the blending and storage facility in Brook eld CT.

by the famed motorcycle designer Alfonso Mori ni and has long been the symbol of Italian inno vation and performance. producing some of the most extraordinary motorcycles in Europe, Moto Morini brings decades of master craftsmanship, exceptional Italian design, premium quality and unparalleled performance to the United States with a portfolio of motorcycles to meet and exceed the demands of today’s riders on and off the road.

The new Moto Morini American headquarters in Irvine, California, is in the heart of the motorcycle industry and will service dealers nationwide. With premium quality, impeccably designed, high performance motorcycles as well as leading edge apparel with famous Italian style, exceptional accessories and world class service and support, Moto Morini is poised to make an immediate and lasting impact in the American motorcycle market.

See the complete Moto Morini line at MotoMoriniUSA.com

Alex Josefson, President of Spector is enthusiastic about the project: “We’ve long had a great relationship with MOTOREX, so when this deal was rst discussed it felt like a natural next step for our business. MOTOREX has a great respect, appreciation, and understanding of the SPECTRO brand and its goals for the future. With their planned investments and upgrades to our manufacturing facility in Brook eld, and with the support of their impressive R&D laboratory in Langenthal, the future is bright for SPECTRO and MOTOREX, both in the US, and worldwide.”

Edi Fischer, CEO of the Motorex Group stated:

“This is a carefully considered and important step for our long-term oriented family-owned company. We are proud to strengthen the group’s portfolio with a traditional and well-established US brand. SPECTRO and MOTOREX are both strong and complementary brands within the Powersport market.”

“Moreover, the company hub in Brook eld will also support our business activities in other sectors such as industrial uids or biodegradable hydraulic oil. This will also allow us to produce more goods made in the US, ensure closer support to our distributors, and improve supply and customer service.”

For more information, contact spectro@motorex.com ,

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023 Page 9

Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERIOUS AMERICA

WAROFTHE WORLDS AMONUMENTTO THE GREATEST HOAX EVER PLAYED

No one would have believed, in the middle of the 20th century, that human affairs were being watched keenly and closely by intelligences greater than man’s. Yet, across the gulf of space on the planet Mars, intellects vast and cool and unsympathetic regarded our Earth with envious eyes, slowly and surely drawing their plans against us.

So began the broadcast that changed the world, and the way we perceive it… and our celestial neighbors.

It was October 30, 1938, and a young broadcaster, Orson Wells, just 23 at the time had put together a show based on H.G. Wells’ War of the Worlds. He and his Mercury Theatre changed the story into a series of “News Bulletins” of an ongoing attack and invasion from Mars that was happening in New Jersey.

Wells and his people – 10 actors and a 27-piece orchestra - were good. Too good. Wells’s partner on this was John Houseman -Yes, that John Houseman.

The CBS program, penned by “Casablanca” screenwriter Howard Koch, opened serenely with the dulcet dance music of “Ramon Raquello and his orchestra.” Then, an actor portraying an announcer broke in with a fake news report that several explosions of incandescent gas had occurred on Mars. In quick succession came a series of increasingly alarming, suspense-building news ashes that culminated with a Martian spacecraft crashing into a farm in Grovers Mill, New Jersey.

For the rest of the hour, terror crackled over the airwaves. Breathless reporters detailed an extraterrestrial army of squid-like gures that killed

thousands of earthlings with heat rays and black clouds of poison gas as they steamrolled into New York City. Wells and the rest of the cast impersonated astronomers, state militia of cials, and even the Secretary of the Interior, who cannily sounded like President Roosevelt.

Some listeners mistook those bulletins for the real thing, and their anxious phone calls to police, newspaper of ces, and radio stations convinced many journalists that the show had caused nationwide hysteria. By the next morning, the 23-year-old Wells’ face and name were on the front pages of newspapers coast-to-coast, along with headlines about the mass panic his CBS broadcast had allegedly inspired.

It was never his intention to scare anyone, nor was a ‘big hoax’ on his mind.

It did not take long before Wells began to get a real sense of just what his ‘production’ had done to the nation. He’d heard reports of mass stampedes, of suicides, and of angered listeners threatening to shoot him on sight.

He had a sick and sinking feeling in his belly.

As he would say “If I’d planned to wreck my career,” he told several people at the time, “I couldn’t have gone about it better.” With his livelihood (and possibly even his freedom) on the line, Wells went before dozens of reporters, photographers, and newsreel cameramen at a hastily arranged press conference in the CBS building. Each journalist asked him some variation of the same basic question: Had he intended, or did he at all anticipate, that War of the Worlds would throw its audience into a panic?

Page 10 BACKROADS • APRIL 2023
Morton’s BMW Motorcycles presents

That question would follow Wells for the rest of his life, and his answers changed as the years went on—from protestations of innocence to playful hints that he knew exactly what he was doing all along.

like hearing our Emergency Broadcast tone… and the words “This is not a test.” Wells craftily and smoothly let the rst 15 minutes of the broadcast plod along… at the 17-minute mark all goes to hell – and thousands listening went into a true panic.

Too many, this was akin to the news of Pearl Harbor… or more like 9/11 as they thought they were learning of this as it was happening.

Listening to this, with all that in mind, you can understand how unthinkable and overwhelming this must have been.

Thankfully today we know there are no malevolent aliens bent on taking over the planet… Well, that is what they would want us to think, wouldn’t they?

I’ll keep an open mind… and a Go-Bag!

There was a report a woman swallowed poison right after proclaiming “I’d rather go this way than a Martian invasion.” Bunk! Orson Welle was a genius at everything, including fright, and the broadcast came on Halloween night. Some folks got frightened and took their old World War I ries out of storage but no one got shot or killed any other way.

Much of the panic began when a large part of the population, all tuned into The Chase Sanborn Hour with Edgar Bergan, switched over to the Mercury Theatre broadcast during a musical interlude. Coming in after the beginning of the show, they took the broadcasts to be real.

It was 1938… No Twits, Posts, or Texts ying about - radio was it, kids.

If you have never really listened to this please do, and put yourself in the shoes of someone in 1938 listening intently to what they truly believed was a real news broadcast. The reporter on the scene at the Wilmuth Farm at Grover’s Mills, New Jersey, Carl Phillips (powerfully played by actor Frank Readick) will scare the S%#t out of you. This was

Today, in a small park not far from the Grovers Mills Coffee Store, you will nd an impressive monument to that historic broadcast created by famed sculptor Thomas J. Warren who has created some of the most impressive bronze sculptures in the world.

Along the path, there are placards explaining the Mercury Broadcast and the events that surrounded the most famous Halloween in America’s history… and a big part of Mysterious America.

O’Life Out! ,

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023 Page 11

Wytheville VA Tourism presents WE’RE OUTTA HERE

THE CABINAT LAKE PLEASANT MIDDLEOFTHE ADIRONDACK PARK, LAKE PLEASANT, NY

thecabinatlakepleasant.com

Each month we strive to nd some different, unique, fun and beautiful places, inns or hotels where you can escape. We like motorcycle-friendly places, and this month we hand the keyboard to our friend, John Bossolt, who will tell you a little about his own place, which he’d love to share with the Backroads’ riding community.

For those of you who have never met John, he is the man currently behind the fun and mile- lled long weekends called MotoMarathon.

Moto what? MotoMarathon is a new sport. It’s about riding as many twisties and scenic roads as possible, over four full days. Routes are kept secret until the night before each event. Through a series of self-recorded checkpoints, riders verify completion at the end of each day’s ride. They are like Backroads rallies – but you need to put in a bit of effort – all of it good and making for a very interesting and fun- lled riding weekend.

In the middle of Upstate New York’s Adirondack Park is the town of Lake Pleasant. Located between Lake George and Old Forge, it is basically a rider’s best-kept secret – until now. Lake Pleasant sits in the southern half of wonderful Hamilton County.

a weekend destinationkeeping you on the backroads

What’s so wonderful about Hamilton County? With only 5,100 people living in an area larger than the state of Rhode Island, it is the leastdensely populated county east of the Mississippi River. It is a rider’s paradise with little traf c and not one traf c light.

The Cabin lies just off NY State Route 8 near the northern end of NY State Route 10. Route 10 twists and turns as it descends through miles of state wilderness. There are few driveways, no cross streets and beautiful pavement. From The Cabin you can travel for hours in any direction on amazing roads. Enjoy endless lakes and incredible views, all beginning at the end of the driveway.

Why stay at The Cabin? As we mentioned the owner is a long-distance motorcycle rider, a retired motor of cer, and runs the national motorcycle tour group Motomarathon. He organizes motorcycle fun as a passion, and having organized motorcycle tours all over the country, he knows what riders want and need. If you’re not familiar with the area, you’ll nd suggested routes on the living room table including places to eat and points of interest along the way.

The Cabin has two bedrooms and a bunk room as well. It’s a perfect basecamp for a few days of touring in and around the Adirondack Park. When you

Page 12 BACKROADS • APRIL 2023

arrive, park your bikes in the garage where you’ll nd everything your bike needs from water and cleaning supplies to compressed air for your tires. When you leave for your ride in the morning, you’ll nd snacks and bottles of water to take with you – all included.

Don’t forget that Backroads staple, ice cream. Speculator Creamery is only ve miles away. It’s truly some of the best ice cream in the Adirondack Park and a perfect place to stop on your ride back to the cabin. Feel like staying in for dinner? Across the street from the creamery is Charlie John’s grocery.

The Cabin has a replace inside, a huge repit outside and plenty of rewood. There’s a gas grill on the deck and over sixteen acres of property for you to enjoy. In the bunkroom you’ll nd an air hockey table and a foosball table. You will not be bored here. Feel like going out? There are several casual restaurants within ve minutes of The Cabin. Spring is here! Book your stay at The Cabin now! ,

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023 Page 13

Thisilldous Eatery presents GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN

MINISINK HOTEL

110 POST OFFICE RD, MINISINK HILLS, PA 18341 • 570-421-9787

This month’s stop on the Great All American Diner run may be familiar to some and frequented by a lot.

Just across the Delaware River, and a few miles north of Interstate 80 along the undulating River Road on the banks of Marshalls Creek, you will nd a most delectable eatery.

It has all the right ingredients. Awesome location, great look and ambiance, and very importantly, some serious good food.

Welcome to the Minisink Hotel.

This place is one of those rare gems that looks like it has been there forever; but unlike so many that have fallen to the wayside and disrepair, the Minisink Hotel shows the TLC and ownership over the years… and there have been a lot of years.

This bit of land, right on the creek, was purchased from the Lenape Tribe, and the original building was built in 1740. Over the years, centuries really, the Minisink Hotel has been many things… a stagecoach stop, general store, hotel, and now a great place and destination for you or you and your friends while out for a bit of exploration along the once-called West River – now Delaware.

Pulling up to the dark barn-red building there is ample space to park your ride and, before you enter, take a quick stroll around the Minisink Hotel’s grounds. They even have a small covered bridge leading to a picnic spot on the far side of Marshall’s Creek.

The place has a great woodsy Pocono feel, with just a bit of Military air, as owner Frank Ottinge is Navy Seabee Veteran.

tasty places to take your bike

When we were there the bartender seemed to be handling it all – and she was awesome and quickly took our order while we took in the rest of the place.

While you wait, or maybe after lunch why not give a round of pool a try?

There was one fellow who particularly liked to play pool here at the Minisink. He called it his favorite pool table. He’s not around these parts anymore – But Jackie Gleason did play Minnesota Fats in The Hustler – so, you’d probably at least lose the table to him.

Bang, zoom… to the moon!

But we are here for the food, so let

Page 14 BACKROADS • APRIL 2023

me tell you a little of what is in store for you at the Minisink. The extensive menu offers something for everyone including burgers, cheesesteaks, homemade pizzas (with a choice of twelve toppings) & stromboli, a gigantic Nachos Supreme Platter, tours of both Italy (half order of both Chicken Parmigiana and lasagna) and Poland (perogies with onions & kielbasa), and their specialty sandwich, the ‘Simon & Garvin’ (fried chicken, ham, lettuce, tomato, and Swiss).

Philadelphia is just 100 miles down the river – so you would expect an offering bearing this city’s name – and The Philadelphian, with its roast pork, garlic aioli, broccoli rabe & provolone will not disappoint.

When we dropped by I went to Poland, in honor of our friends Laura & Marek who come from this nation and take great and loving care of Spenser T. Cat while we are off and about. Shira ordered a Daily Special with potato pancakes and a bowl of the Minisink Hotel’s zesty and butt-kickin’ chili.

If you’re going to be awhile they have a superb selection of different brews, ciders, and locally sourced concoctions – nice to relax with one of

these on the grounds or taking in the view of Marshalls Creek and the motorcycles and sports car running the sweetly traveled River Road.

Let us tell you… running north on the road towards Dingmans, or south from, this road is a roller-coaster and a pure joy to ride.

That being the case our route will bring you to the Minisink Hotel from Locomotion Powersports.

True, you probably have never seen these guys running ads in Backroads – but regardless they are a ne shop and our good friends Frank Crimeni and Shell Huber works here. I know Shell and his riding posse are big fans of this restaurant, so I thought we’d offer them something a little different from their normal ride.

The Minisink Hotel offers great food, an awesome atmosphere, and a fantastic staff! Don’t miss a chance to follow this digital Rip & Ride route and stop by the Minisink Hotel for lunch or early dinner, we promise you will love the ride and the food.

See ya on the road! , Download route here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/17hk0r

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023 Page 15

Warren County NJ Tourism presents BIG CITY GETAWAY

MUSEUMOF MAKING MUSIC

5790 ARMADA DRIVE, CARLSBAD, CA 92008

760-438-5996 • museumofmakingmusic.org

Who does not love music?

Do any of you not ride your motorcycle at times with a soundtrack running in the back of your head – or through your headsets?

I thought not. Even the most focused riders in the world, MotoGP and MotoAmerica and World Superbike riders, seem to have earbuds on as they prepare pre-race.

Take away the music soundtrack to any movie and the best action lm just gets boring.

People spend their lives in pursuit of music and making music.

We brought you to the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, in Cleveland, Ohio – a place where everybody is a star.

But for every mega-star there are hundreds of thousands of people who just love music and love to create it, play it and share it, or not –maybe just play music for themselves.

For all these countless musicians there is the Museum of Making Music – a truly wonderful place.

Lying along the Paci c Ocean, just north of San Diego, in the small town of Carlsbad, the Museum of Making Music celebrates, honors, and encourages everybody and anybody that makes music.

We stopped by MoMM last summer, during our little MLB Stadium tour, and still think it was one of the best things we found on a west coast tour that covered so much in just ten days.

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind

The Museum of Making Music was started by the National Association of Music Merchants and was opened in March of 2000.

These are the movers and shakers of the musical instrument world, and if there was ever a group that was so totally engulfed in their livelihood it is the men and women who operate these companies.

According to the MoMM website, their mission is simple: “They envision a world in which the joy of making music is a precious element of daily living for everyone; a world in which every child has a deep desire to learn music and a recognized right to be taught, and in which every adult is a passionate champion and defender of that right.

The Museum of Making Music explores the accomplishments and impact of the music products industry through exhibitions and programs, and directly connects visitors with live music and music-making opportunities.”

This museum is about allowing and nurturing all peoples to play, make, create and love music – in all its forms. We can get behind that!

The museum itself is off the road and, rolling into the covered carport, I rst thought we might be in the wrong place, but looks can be deceiving and as we strolled in, we were greeted by another Brian – one of MoMM’s docents –strumming a very sweet Martin 12-string.

Page 16 BACKROADS • APRIL 2023

We said our hellos and listened to his beautiful strumming for a bit before heading into the museum proper.

The museum is built in a circular manner to allow you to meander through the years and the amazing collection of instruments from the past to the present.

The museum’s galleries feature more than 450 vintage instruments and artifacts, hundreds of audio samples of popular music, and a few visitor interactive areas with live, hands-on instruments, along with Sit ‘N Play areas near the end of the main galleries.

From an area with some of the greatest electric ampli ers – tube-type Fenders, Marshall called “Getting Louder” to the wall of some of the more popular electric guitars such as Gibson Les Paul, Fender Tele, and Stratocasters – and the bottom-end workhorse of Rock & Roll, the Precision Bass, the museum impresses. Other beautifully crafted mandolins, banjos, and ukuleles can be seen.

Keyboards and a stunning collection of brass and woodwind instru-

ments are to be found. A superb selection of percussion, drums, and cymbals as well as a recreation of The Beatles gear.

But the Museum of Making Music is just that –about making music and they actively encourage you to pick up one of the many different instruments they have on hand.

While there we watched some young Asian kids, obviously visiting the US, terrorized the drums, ukuleles and the like. The kids were having a ball and the parent - well, they obviously love their kids.

Shira took a turn at the keyboard and a MOOG synthesizer and I took a couple of acoustic guitars off the wall. I was playing a nice Breedlove when Brian, the docent from earlier in our visit, came into the room and asked me if I had ever played a Collings. Bill Collings has been hand-making guitars in Austin, Texas, for decades and they are considered to be some of the nest on the planet. I had never seen one, much less played one.

Evidentially my humble guitar playing got the attention of the museum staff and Brian, and I had passed the “Hey, he can play!” test. A few minutes later he walked in with a staggering beautiful Collings CJ dreadnaught guitar and handed it to me.

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023 Page 17

All four grand of staggering beautiful.

And… this is the point of all this. To get people to make music. You don’t have to be a superstar, a prodigy, or naturally gifted. You just have to take a dive into the musical pool and see what happens.

Music! You’ll hear a lot of it during your visit here. From the marches and rags of the early 1900s, through the evolutionary sounds of jazz, folk, rock ‘n roll, and pop, to the cross-cultural expressions of today’s connected world.

It’s the soundtrack of our lives, and it’s also part of a much larger story… the story of how an industry—the music products industry—supplies the world with the instruments, products, and gear that we all use to make music.

Don’t miss a beat! Visit the Museum of Making Music today and discover the world of music and music making.

A one, two, three, four… ,

Page 18 BACKROADS • APRIL 2023

WHAT’STHE SCOOP ICE CREAM SHOP 411 MAIN STREET, POINT PLEASANT, WV 304-812-0288

As we all know and agree – there is not much more fun than some great ice cream on a beautiful day and this month Shira has foolishly let me, the Master of the Mysterious, Seymour O’Life himself, hijack her Inside Scoop to throw in my 2-cents on a neat ice cream shop in the very west of West Virginia, right along the con uence of the Kanawha and Ohio Rivers.

You ask… “What’s the scoop, Seymour?” Exactly. What’s the Scoop indeed.

But, because I can, let’s talk about how this delightful shop came about…

Point Pleasant, West Virginia, was home to the Shawnee tribe for thousands of years before rst the French and then, after the French & Indian War, the British came along. On October 10th 1774 a huge battle between the settler’s militiamen, led by Colonel Andrew Lewis defeated a roughly equal force of an Algonquin confederation of Shawnee and Mingo warriors led by Shawnee Chief Cornstalk The event is celebrated locally as the “First Battle of the American Revolutionary War and in 1908 the U.S. Senate authorized erection of a local monument to commemorate it as such. Most historians, however, regard it not as a battle of the Revolution, but as a part of Lord Dumore’s War –”to pacify the hostile Indian war bands”.

But it was more modern tragedy that brings Point Pleasant to the town it is today as, with all good ice cream stories, it involves engineering failure, ying cryptids and a town with that good ol’ USA tradition of making lemonade out of lemons.

In truth, the story is not as jovial, as so many died in a sudden horrible moment of history.

Some 56 years ago, on December 15, 1967 people on both side of the Ohio River were setting their sights on the upcoming holiday season. It was late afternoon on a Friday and as 5 o’clock approached the 2,200 hundred-foot Silver Bridge, crossing the wide Ohio River from Point Pleasant to Gallipolis, Ohio was jammed with traf c.

At precisely 4:58, without warning, there was a loud gun-shot like explosion and in 20-seconds the entire 1460-foot long suspended section of the bridge folded like a deck of cards and 32 cars tumbled 102 feet (10 stories) into the dark and freezing waters of the river far below.

Forty-six men, woman and children perished - two of the bodies were never recovered.

The city, state and nation reeled under this horri c event.

Some claimed there was a huge ying creature seen just as the bridge gave way.

This creature is now known as The Mothman.

Now, almost six decades later the town can thank this legend of Mysterious America for a good part of its economy. Which brings my motorcycle to the bright blue doorway of What’s the Scoop Ice Cream Shop, just down the road from the famed stainless steel statue of The Mothman and from the location of the doomed span.

Here we can stop dwelling on some of the town’s sad history and instead talk about that which brought us back to this riverside town in the rst place – What’s the Scoop Ice Cream Shop.

Inside the cozy shop they serve up 15 different avors of premium local ice cream and always have a special “Flavor of the Month.”

But, you would think when you have a local cryptomagical creature of the statue and reputation of

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023 Page 19

the infamous Mothman, then you would take advantage of the beasts notoriety? You’d be right.

What’s the Scoop has all sorts of dishes and offerings that go as deep into local folklore and legend. They have more than a dozen monstrous cryptid themed extreme-shakes. 30 different milkshake avors and so many other odd, different, yet delicious ice-creamy offerings.

Oh, of course even The Mothman must answer Nature’s Call, right? The Mothman Droppings, regardless of the image that might bring, are pretty damn delicious.

Their #1 best seller should be of little surprise… the call it The Mothbowl. This mythical creation consists of your choice of ice cream in a deep and crunchy waf e bowl with two cherries for the eyes and Hershey bars for the wings. Put all this together and you get an explosively wonderful treat more potent than a TNT Factory.

When riding down along the West Virginian side of the Ohio River keep a look-out for two things – anything really big, ying and scary above Point Pleasant and this month’s stop on Shira’s (a bit of a legend herself) ice cream column – What’s the Scoop – it will be a place well worth believing in.

O’Life Out! ,

Page 20 BACKROADS • APRIL 2023

words + images: Dan Bisbee

US Route 20 stretches 3,365 miles from Boston, Massachusetts to Newport, Oregon making it the longest road in the United States. Someday I plan to ride the entire length of it but for today I’m riding a short segment in western Massachusetts known as the Jacob’s Ladder Trail Scenic Byway. The original road climbed a steep hill with a series of drainage ditches dug across it. These water bars gave the road the appearance of a ladder and the locals referred to it as Jacob’s Ladder, based on the biblical tale of Jacob who had a vision of a ladder leading to heaven.

In the early 20th century, as automobile and motorcycle travel began to develop, the need for better roads was evident. A plan was made to improve the existing trails crossing the Berkshires in western Massachusetts. The northern route between the New York state line and Green eld opened as the Mohawk Trail in 1914 see Backroads April 2016). The southern route, between Lee and West eld, was chosen rst, opening in 1910. It is regarded as the rst mountain crossover road designed speci cally for automobiles. During its dedication in September of 1910, stones from around the world were used to construct a rock cairn at the summit.

A century ago. highway construction was much more art than science and the initial roadway had many shortcomings: the primitive pavement disintegrated. The road heaved and buckled from frost and heat. Marshy areas sank into impassable quagmires. Improvements were made and the road became a destination for Sunday Drives. An observation tower, boasting of a ve-state view, capped the summit. A restaurant and motel soon followed, along with other traveler amenities.

The highway was marketed through a series of postcards with fanciful names for the many curves: Satan’s Elbow, Bandit’s Curve, Bishop’s Bend, Rocky Curve.

the great state road mountain crossovers. It opened September 10, 1910 with a picnic on the skyline. Here Mrs. George Westinghouse raised the American Flag. The Ladder cost over $240,000 and is the most traveled mountain road in America.”

The roadway maintained its popularity throughout the 19-teens and twenties. The Great Depression saw traf c wane and, after the Massachusetts Turnpike was built in the 1950s, the popularity of the road fell further. Sunday drives became less common and the summit tower fell into disrepair. The restaurant held out until the 1980s before being torn down. Today, despite being renamed as the “Jacob’s Ladder Trail Scenic Byway,” the road is overshadowed by bigger and faster options but that makes it a great motorcycle ride.

Coming from the east, Jacobs Ladder begins in Russell, MA, marked by a parking area and large sign placed as part of the centennial celebration in 2010. Just west of the pull-out and sign, the old road darts off to the north through the village of Woronoco and past a series of derelict mill buildings. A proud smokestack rises from the overgrowth proclaiming Strathmore Paper, which was headquartered here for most of the 20th century. The buildings have been vacant for the past 25 years and seem to burn with alarming frequency. Soon, I fear, the remaining buildings will be reduced to rubble. The only sign of activity is at one of the old dams which provided water power to the mills. The water still hums through turbines producing hydroelectric power.

After passing the mills, Woronoco Road rejoins the modern Route 20 and swoops along the West eld River, making for an enjoyable motorcycle ride to Russell Center. Jacob’s Ladder skirts the town, with Main Street heading off across the river. Russell maintains many of the small-town New England trademarks: a couple of churches, a General Store, and a gas station. It’s over in a blip and the road continues its river-hugging ways.

postcards, of

The backs of the postcards, dripping with hyperbole, called the roadway out as: “A superb motorway of scenic splendor connecting the Housatonic and West eld River valleys on direct highway east and west across Massachusetts. It rises at a gradient of six percent, by graceful curves to a summit 2000 feet above tidewater. First of

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023 Page 21
(
ride.

The next town is Huntington where Route 112, another ne motorcycle road, takes off to the north. Here, three branches of the West eld River tumble out of the surrounding hills forming the West eld River proper. During high water in the springtime, the town hosts white water canoe races. The roadway was altered here at some point with the original road crossing the river for a few miles before crossing back. After the village, the ‘Jake coils back into the woods, snaking to Chester.

shires. The museum today is a tiny jewel of a museum tracing the history of railroading in Chester.

Just up the road is another jewel of engineering: the Keystone Arches. In order to make the climb as gentle as possible, the railroad arced its way along the river necessitating several bridges. Construction was from locally quarried granite and the bridges were built without mortar. The modern railroad has been rerouted, but some of the bridges are still used daily by freight trains. An impressive double arch bridge is visible just past the parking area, the rest require a hike. The bridges are listed as National Historic Landmarks and considering the technology of the time, they are quite an impressive feat of engineering. The man in charge of construction was a prominent civil engineer of the time named George Washington Whistler. He designed railroads as well as locomotives and was very well respected. His wife is the one more remembered though, she was the subject of their son’s painting Whistler’s Mother.

In Chester, Factory Village forms the heart of the town, nestled in a bowl hollowed out of the Berkshire hills. The unique geography means that the state’s hottest temperature (107 degrees f) and coldest temperature (-40 degrees) were recorded here. The day I passed through town was pleasant and I stopped at the old gas station building with a Flying Pegasus sign. It’s home to Carm’s restaurant these days where they serve up breakfast hot and fresh. (and Charlie’s Ice Cream is right next door! – ed.) Properly nourished and caffeinated, I headed just around the corner to the Chester Railway Museum.

Before the automobile, trains were the main source of transportation. The railroad came to town in the 1840s, providing a direct link to move freight and people between the Erie Canal at Albany and Boston. Chester was at the bottom of an impressive climb and trains of the day couldn’t make the climb. “Helper” locomotives were housed here and added to the trains to boost them up and over the backbone of the Berk-

Page 22 BACKROADS • APRIL 2023

Back on Jacobs Ladder, I hit the best part of the roadway curving up the hill out of Chester, twisting along Walker’s Brook. It’s a thoroughly enjoyable ride. The road takes a brief pause from its curvaceous ways at Bonny Rigg Four Corners before gathering steam for one last burst to the summit.

The rock cairn is still here near the highpoint although it has apparently been moved around a few times and its present con guration doesn’t quite match the historical images. The observation tower is gone and trees obscure the “FiveState view.” In fact, much of the “scenic splendor” present in the historical images is obscured by overgrowth. The old postcards show a much more open landscape. Today, thanks to a decrease in logging and farming in the area, the forests have

reclaimed their domain. After the summit, the road mellows a bit and I can take in the scenery around Greenwater Pond. In Lee, the Jacob’s Ladder Scenic Trail Byway comes to an end.

I decide to nish this ride with a stop at Joe’s Diner. Joe’s looks like any one of a hundred diners except for one small piece of history. Norman Rockwell painted his iconic image “The Runaway” here. The painting depicts a police of cer sitting beside a small boy at the counter. The boy appears running away with his worldly belongings wrapped up in a handkerchief on a stick.

Much to my disappointment, Joe’s closed an hour before I arrived. Instead, I think back on the road I’ve just ridden. I’m not sure I would call it a “superb motorway” and I never did nd Satan’s Elbow or Bishop’s Bend. Still, it’s a nice road for an afternoon ride.

If I’m going to ride the entire length of Route 20, I better get going. It’s another 3,200 miles to Newport, Oregon and I need to tie my belongings up in a handkerchief. ,

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023 Page 23

I went to a garden party

To reminisce with my old friends

A chance to share old memories

Play our songs again

Everything has a history. Even the seasons. Here we are rolling into a fresh new riding season – Spring 2023.

For us here at Backroads, it means things will start moving pretty quickly. We have baseball, MotoGP and MotoAmerica, and our Spring Break and Grand Finale Road Rallies will be quickly coming up after the next bend.

Nothing echoes the warm feelings of this season more than a well-kept and colorful garden. Here in the northeast, we are blessed with a great number of public and private gardens and we thought it would be a nice way to get onto the backroads this spring and get to take in Mother Nature as she is just beginning to shine.

Springtime Factoid:

Before the 14th century, spring was called Lent in Old English. It was the time of the year when plants started springing from the ground. After a century, the season was referred to as spring-time and later on shortened to “spring.”

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023

NEW JERSEY BOTANICAL GARDENS

2 MORRIS ROAD, RINGWOOD, NJ 07456 • 973-962-9534 • WWW.NJBG.ORG

The New Jersey State Botanical Garden is a part of Ringwood State Park, New Jersey Division of Parks and Forestry, Department of Environmental Protection and appears on both the State and National Registers of Historic Places.

Skylands History

The New Jersey State Botanical Garden forms the heartland of a property that Francis Lynde Stetson (1846-1920) assembled from pioneer farmsteads here in the Ramapo Mountains. A prominent New York lawyer, incorporator of railroads and the U.S. Steel Corporation, he entertained such friends as Grover Cleveland, Andrew Carnegie, Ethel Barrymore, and J.P. Morgan here at Skylands.

Skylands was sold in 1922 to Clarence McKenzie Lewis, an investment banker and also a trustee of the New York Botanical Garden. When Mr. Lewis purchased the property, he set out to make it a botanical show-

place. The Stetson house was torn down, and the current Tudor mansion of native granite was built on the site.

Lewis engaged the most prominent landscape architects of his day, the rm Vitale and Geiffert, to design the gardens around his new summer home. Feruccio Vitale, who specialized in private estates, included among his clients John Wanamaker. Alfred Geiffert designed Rockefeller Center, the grounds of Princeton University, and the National Gallery of Art. Photos of their work illustrate an Encyclopedia Britannica article on landscape architecture.

Most of the trees now framing the house were planted at that time, including the magni cent copper beeches. Lewis stressed symmetry, color, texture, form, and fragrance in his gardens. He wanted to appeal to the senses. For thirty years, Lewis collected plants from all over the world and from New Jersey roadsides. The result is one of the nest collections of plants in the state. Lewis had over 60 gardeners working in peak seasons.

Today the New Jersey Botanical Garden has much to offer – the Crab Apple Allee, the Perennial Garden, gardens full of Lilac and Peony, and the stunning and watery Azalea Garden.

This part of New Jersey, right on the border with New York, is a blast to ride – so a day trip to the Skylands Manor is well worth the miles.

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023 Page 25

Springtime Factoid:

In Sicily, women make a pilgrimage to the garden of Adonis at the beginning of spring. They plant seeds and wait for the sprouts. They decorate the garden with blue and crimson ribbons as a sign of life over death.

LONGWOOD GARDENS

1001 LONGWOOD RD, KENNETT SQUARE, PA 19348

(610) 388-1000 • LONGWOODGARDENS.ORG

Longwood Gardens, one of America’s quintessential landscapes, is a place of ever-changing seasonal beauty, handcrafted feats of horticultural wonder, and an awe-inspiring collection of the most beautiful plants from around the globe.

representing 200 different plant families. Together, mesmerizing displays, feats of engineering, and science-based research and conservation work harmoniously toward the overarching goal to unite and inspire guests in appreciation of beauty—as only Longwood can.

We have been here often and it has become a ‘perennial’ favorite.

Springtime Factoid:

In ancient Mayan tradition, The Return of the Sun Serpent, Kukulcan, is celebrated during the first day of spring; and the ancient Egyptians built the Great Sphinx facing the rising sun during the spring equinox.

HOLLISTER HOUSE GARDENS

300 NETTLETON HOLLOW RD, WASHINGTON, CT 06793 860-868-2200 • HOLLISTERHOUSEGARDEN.ORG

From their humble beginnings as a Quaker farmstead and arboretum to Pierre S. du Pont’s forward-thinking stewardship, to today’s collection of renowned landscape designers, horticulturists, and architects, this great garden of the world evolves and emerges again and again.

A nice day ride here will allow you to explore nearly 200 acres of lush, formal gardens, open meadows, and winding paths to breathtaking Brandywine Valley vistas, with over 10,000 species and varieties of plants,

This part of the Nutmeg State has always been a joy to ride. Tiny backroads, small towns with deep history, and a rich mix of nature.

Beautifully situated on a sloping, terraced site in the rolling hills of Litch eld County in northwestern Connecticut, Hollister House Garden is an American interpretation of such classic English gardens as Sissinghurst, Great Dixter, and Hidcote, formal in its structure but informal and rather wild in its style of planting. Begun in 1979 by George Schoellkopf, the garden since that time has evolved under George’s direc-

Page 26 BACKROADS • APRIL 2023

tion into a unique synthesis of the formal and the natural, the right angles of paths, walls, and hedges melting seamlessly into the lush surrounding landscape, which forms a magni cent backdrop to the garden’s exuberant plantings. Since 1993 Gerald Incandela has contributed greatly to the garden’s development with his artist’s eye trained on rede ning the surrounding landscape. The garden is sited on the southeastern side of a rambling but serenely dignied eighteenth-century house on 25 acres of mostly wooded countryside. Although the garden is in no way a recreation of an eighteenth-century garden, it was nevertheless planned to complement the old house, and antique or handmade materials have been used wherever possible in its construction. Various eighteenth-century barns and outbuildings are visible from the garden and further help to root it in the history of the place. The garden unfolds in successive layers of space and color with delightful informal vistas from one section to the next. Eight-to-ten-foot walls and hedges with dramatic changes in level de ne the progression of garden spaces – “rooms” as the English like to say –and create a rm architectural framework for the romantic abundance of the plantings. A winding brook and a large pond at the bottom of the lawn add to the variety of the garden scene.

BOWMAN’S HILL WILDFLOWER PRESERVE

1635 RIVER RD, NEW HOPE, PA 18938 • 215-862-2924 • BHWP.ORG

This great place began in an odd way back in the middle of the Great Depression. At a chance meeting in a wooded area on state park land in Bucks County, two conservation-minded people struck up a conversation, sharing their mutual appreciation for the peaceful, natural setting

The Stream Walk, Herb Garden, the Yellow Border, and Indian Walk all add to the magic of Hollister House.

Almost as a bonus the Hollister House is surrounded by ve small villages – each with its own charm, and avor. One such village is Bantam and here you will nd Arethusa Dairy, scooping up homemade ice cream to further enhance your enjoyment of the spring season. Open daily at 10:30am, you’ll nd them at 822 Bantam Rd, Bantam, CT.

Springtime Factoid:

Many cultures celebrate the return of spring. It often signifies rebirth or rejuvenation.

Cherry blossom viewing, known as ”Hanami”, is a major festivity in Japan. Sakura or cherry blossoms are an important symbol in Buddhism.

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023 Page 27

that surrounded them. It was autumn 1933, and richly colored wild owers shone against a backdrop of trees cloaked in brilliant fall hues. Inspired by the quiet beauty of the woods and the tranquil creek owing nearby, they imagined a sanctuary for Pennsylvania native plants with nature trails winding through wild ower plantings—a place where visitors could enjoy this natural splendor year-round. Both rmly believed that this area was far too beautiful to be turned into the ordinary picnic grounds proposed for the site.

These two visionary individuals were Mary K. Parry, then the chairman of the Bucks County Federation of Women’s Clubs, and W. Wilson

Heinitsh, employed by the Pennsylvania Department of Forest and Waters as a consultant for Washington Crossing Historic Park—the parkland where Parry and Heinitsh met.

As the saying goes, the two didn’t let any grass grow under their feet— unless perhaps it was a Pennsylvania native! They rallied support for their vision from the Federation of Garden Clubs of Pennsylvania, W.E. Montgomery of the Pennsylvania Department of Forests and Waters, and the Council for the Preservation of Natural Beauty in Pennsylvania. Today, just south of New Hope, Pennsylvania – a town worth a visit all by itself - you can wander the Preserve and take in the beauty.

The Preserve’s meadow is located on a gently sloping hillside at the entrance of the Preserve. The roughly 4-acre plot features about 105 different species of native grasses, sedges, rushes, and wild owers—all divided into two distinct habitats.

For decades, the current meadow was maintained as a mown lawn. Early in the spring of 1998, the Preserve began to develop a true meadow by limiting the mowing to just once each year, which deters the growth of woody plants. In the eastern United States, unless a meadow is “maintained” by naturally occurring re or intentional mowing, it will eventually evolve into a forest.

In 1999, seedlings of the native grasses that form the foundation of the meadow—such as switchgrass, Indian grass, and bluestem—were planted among the non-native turf grasses along with sedges, rushes, and wild owers. Since then, shaded out by taller meadow plants, most of the non-native turf grasses have been eliminated. Their eradication was critical since they form dense, matted roots that crowd out other plants.

In their place, native, clump-forming grasses have left room for the roots of wild owers to also grow. But here at Bowman’s, it is really all about “Native Plants.”

As more and more of the land around us is developed and/or degraded, the home landscape is becoming increasingly important in the preservation of healthy, balanced ecosystems. Here they incorporate practices that preserve landscapes in their more natural states.

First and foremost, this means planting species on your property that evolved to grow there. Plants that are native to a given locale or ecosystem evolved to coexist with all other forms of life also found there, and—along with soil type and climate considerations—form the foundation of complex food webs in which species are dependent on each other for their very survival.

Quite simply, the abundant and highly diverse native species of plants, shrubs, vines, and trees characteristic of our landscape do a better job—the best ecologically-balanced job—of providing food and shelter for the many insects, birds, amphibians, reptiles, mammals and other life forms that can, and should, be found there.

This is the way Mother Nature intended our world to look.

And here’s another great ice cream shop to punctuate your spring day ride – OwOwCow Creamery. This was Shira’s rst Inside Scoop and still holds its cream in the ice cream world. You can nd them in Lambertville – their only Jersey location – at 237 N Union St. • 609.397.2234, about 3.5 miles north of Bowman’s Hill Preserve.

So there are a few places to ride to, explore, and let sink into your soul as we begin this riding season. Enjoy and we hope to see ya on the road! ,

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Get In Gear

From head to toe, it’s time to take stock of your closet and spruce it up for the 2023 riding season. We all have our go-to gear; that broken-in, supple riding suit, jacket and pants, gloves that, well, t like a glove and helmet that has nally gotten to that perfect comfort level. While we all want our riding gear to have full protection but feel like we are wearing a second skin, sometimes that second skin needs too many band-aids to keep it functioning. Let’s start from head to toe and take a look in our closets at what needs a little TLC and what needs to be moved to the ‘thanks for the memories’ pile.

Helmets

The general consensus is that motorcycle helmets should be replaced every ve years. This may seem like a lot, but if you are riding 10,000 miles a year or more, that’s a lot of hours in your helmet. Compression, degradation and just plain wear takes a toll, not to mention any gravity storms that may enter the equation. Yes, this is one of the most expensive pieces of gear that you’ll buy but it protects a pretty important part of your body (the saying $5 head gets a $5 helmet should NOT apply to you).

If the lining of your helmet looks like the mice might have gotten to it, the paint is chipping and the visor needs a bit of coaxing to move, it’s time to invest in a new lid. Preferences abound in this category, and the

shape of your head truly does determine which helmet manufacturer will t correctly. I have long been partial to the modular helmet, making it easier to communicate without dof ng, but many who spend their riding time on the track will say that a full-face is the only way to go. I have been pretty consistent with my Nolan/X-Lite helmets, using both the N100-5 and X-1005. They t my head well and have great visibility and air ow. They start around $400 for solid and $480 for graphics.

Riding suits, jackets and pants

I know a woman who has her original Vanson leather jacket from the ‘80s (?). She still wears it and has taken excellent care of it. Leather is like that. Unless you really take a tum ble, and keep it well-oiled, it should be able to be passed down to the next gener ation of rider in your family.

Textile gear is a bit different. I’m sure you’ve all seen ‘stich wearers (that’s Aerostich, in case you weren’t savvy), whose suits look like they have been to the moon and back, perhaps several times. My original one-piece ‘stich, which was a brilliant red, was worn to the point of pinkness. Sub sequent suits have held up quite well, with a bit of fading, and did require some refurbish ing during any off-season. Zippers split, Vel

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023 Page 29

cro wears out, belt loops tear, etc. (see the September 2022 issue). One or two-piece will run you about $1567. Visit aerostich.com to see your options.

With other textile gear, take the time to check the lining, padding, zippers, Velcro and other perishable parts to see if they need replacing. Give it a good washing to get it ready to be dirty again this season. If necessary, spray a can or two of waterproo ng to reinforce.

Gloves

This is a real Goldilocks item – too big, too small, not long enough, too bulky. Spend the money on good gloves and they will last. I have been wearing Held Air n Dry for a while, and they are really great. With a section for cool (unlined and perforated nger sides) and warm (Gore-tex lining), they are two gloves in one. They break in quickly, come in small sizes to t littler hands, and have a fairly good gauntlet to go over your sleeves. They come in Ladies sizing (or for those with smaller hands) and will run you about $299.99.

Base Layers

Over the years, we have discovered many differ ent base layers used for different seasons. The folks at real-rider.com carry Bodz and Sockz, which have worked great for all the years we have worn them. In both warm and cold sets, they pack down for trav el, wash and dry quickly, and will help to keep your core temperature at even keel. They are having a close-out sale (real-rider.com)and you can get any thing Bodz/Sockz for just $10. At that price I’d stock up (oh, I did).

More recently, we were able to test ZeroFit’s Ultimate Base Layer. Brian and I were mightily impressed, and even more so af ter our last trip out west. Thinking Califor nia, I did not bring my heated gear (we all know what hap pened in California in February). With the temperature dropping to freezing and below, I had on a ZeroFit base layer top with a long sleeve t-shirt underneath and my

My other set of gloves, which are similar, are IXS. They have the two inserts for cool and warm but have a bit longer gauntlet which makes it easier to go over sleeve’s end. They took a little longer to break in, are a combination leather and textile, and will save you about $100 from the Held gloves. You can see the IXS gloves here: ixs.com/us/moto-viper.

Page 30 BACKROADS • APRIL 2023

Aerostich over. I’d say that my core was about the only thing that was not freezing. Once the temperatures warmed to a balmy 45, I was still perfectly comfortable. ZeroFit offers leggings as well so that you will be top to bottom comfortable. While you might think they are pricey, you won’t think twice about that once you feel the warmth on that cold spring ride. I tend to accumulate base layers. If you do the same, go through and see what you are still using and what has become passe, moth-eaten or threadbare. I took out a BMW ComforTemp jacket that was over 20 years old. Thinking that would make a great wind blocker, I took it along on the last trip. What I didn’t realize was that the microcapsules which were supposed to be scattered throughout the jacket had settled to the bottom, thus negating the heating properties. It wasn’t even a good wind blocker anymore. Time to move it along.

Boots

Perhaps the piece of riding gear that gets the most abuse, our boots certainly need a bunch of TLC throughout their lives. I am relatively easy on mine, while Brian, like his gloves, puts a good beating on them. For street riding, get something with really good ankle protection and, even better, at least up above the shin. A simple tip over can do major damage if you have no protection. Off-road riders already know they need the most protection they can get.

Many boots claim to be waterproof, but only time really tells. I have been wearing Sidi Lady Gavia boots for several cycles and they have lived up to that claim. I keep them fairly clean, give them a polish every once in a while, and make sure the zippers are free- owing. What I did do with mine was bring them to my wonderful cobbler (Sparta Cobbler, Sparta, NJ) to have him add a little sole. The rst pair I had lasted over 5 years. They are still great dry weather backup boots. When I got my new pair, I immediately brought them to Thomas the Cobbler to do the same. Pull out your daily riding boots and inspect in and out. See if the lining is still attached, the zippers are still uid, the buckles all snap. Give them a good cleaning, in and out, get some waterproo ng polish and give ‘em a shine.

Assorted Sundries

I tend to collect all sorts of layers for riding. Whether t-shirts, wicking tops, leggings, neck warmers and

especially gloves, I try to cull the things I haven’t used in the past season to make room for new. Last year I made a great nd – JustRide5. A women-owned company, they offer mid and base layers that are expertly crafted with some great design options. The mid layers are designed with an extended tail and maximum air ow mesh paneled side, underarm and armpits to keep things cool. The base layers are made with moisture wicking, antimicrobial and UV protecting, breathable fabric, have long sleeves with thumbholes to aid in the ease of putting on jackets, extended torso to minimize exposure and a high collar with quality zipper and zipper garage for wind protection. Since I got this it has been my go-to riding shirt, warm or cold. See all they have at justride5.com.

As we head into April, take some time to go through that gear closet and see what’s good, what goes and what need some attention. Just like Back to School Day, you might want some new duds when riding into 2023. , ~ Shira Kamil

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What the heck is Steampunk?

Well, it’s all very cool dontcha’ know and according to Common description… Steampunk is a design style inspired by Victorian-era industrialism. Science ction author K.W. Jeter created the term steampunk in 1987 to describe a style of fantasy ction that featured Victorian technology, especially technology powered by steam.

The steampunk genre was originally inspired by the ctional works of Jules Verne, Mary Shelley, and H.G. Wells, who wrote popular science ction romances in the late 1800s. Today, the steampunk genre emphasizes both the use of older technologies as well as retro-looking futuristic inventions as people in the 19th century might have imagined them. Since then, it has been used to describe an artistic and cultural movement.

There are twenty-one counties in the state of New Jersey and they all have something to say. Hey, we’re Jersey – of course, we got sumptin’ to say, OK?

One county that says a lot is Warren.

Although Backroads Central is located in Sussex County, just to the north, we spend a lot of time riding along the neat backroads of Warren which is mostly a mix of forests, low mountains (big hills), and rolling farmland. This is where New Yorkers and Philadelphians spend hours riding…just to play motorcycles.

Everything and place has a history and a story - Warren is not different. Still, it was odd to learn that the county is named after a man who never even put a foot in the region.

Revolutionary War hero General Joesph Warren (1741-1775), was a Bostonian who died at the Battle of Bunker Hill on June 17, 1775. Dr. Warren was a Massachusetts physician and politician who was killed by a musket ball to the back of his head during or just after the storming of the redoubt atop Breed’s Hill by British troops.

From all accounts, he was a brave and honorable man and according to British General Thomas Gage (the enemy), his death was “worth the death of 500 men.”

So, let’s enjoy Warren County that much more, shall we? Warren County sends out e-mails regularly (you can sign up at ExploreWarren.org) letting people know of what’s going on, special events, and cool happenings. One such cool happening was the Rock & Roll Steampunk Festival – to be held in Washington, New Jersey – home to Washington Cycle Works (a most excellent shop) - on May 21 last spring.

Knowing just a bit about ‘Steampunk’ and more than a touch intrigued, we set off that warmish spring day and scooted south along this magazine’s moniker.

Page 32 BACKROADS • APRIL 2023

Even though we are in the region often we have still been able to wrangle up some ‘new to us’ roads and mix them with some familiar ones as well.

With our predilection for history we paused along Route 57 to catch an image of one of the more unusual historic placards. The Concrete Mile. It was here that in 1912, with the help of ‘Topsy the Elephant killing’ Thomas Edison (sorry, not letting that one go), the state poured its rst concrete highway. This part of the highway is very apparent, even 110 years later.

Just further on the old Morris Canal. This canal, which is marked along its route, can be clearly seen from Route 57.

The  Morris Canal, which was key to the region’s growth and expansion, was completed on May 20, 1832 (just 190 years prior to our ride-by), and its western terminus was at Phillipsburg on the Delaware River, here in Warren County. The canal traversed across northern New Jersey on a 102-mile route to Jersey City. It provided a thoroughfare for the county’s farm products to reach metropolitan markets. Villages such as Port Warren, Port Colden, Port Murray, and Rockport owe their names and existence to their locations along the canal. The canal also brought together anthracite coal from Pennsylvania as well as limestone and iron ore from New Jersey during an era of early industrialization. Railroads and then highways, like the concrete one we just rode on, quickly replaced the canal and increased the speed of development and expansion of industry within the country.

Sadly, today one has to search the old canal out –but if you look you can still nd remnants here and there across the Garden State.

The Rock & Roll Steampunk Festival was held in the center of the town and was in full swing when we arrived.

With the motorcycles, parking was a breeze and with everything stowed on the bikes we began to search out the various vendors and tables hawking all sorts of “Steampunk” goods, fashions, and art.

If you need some help the Rock & Roll Steampunk Festival can be your gateway to SP heaven.

As we were walking through, I spotted something that might not be exactly Steampunk, but caught my eye immediately. It was a tented table for “In the Shadow of Big Red Eye.”

Earlier last year Backroads Master of the Mysterious Dr. Seymour O’Life penned a deep two-part investigative article called “In Search of

Steampunk might not be for everybody, but those who like it, usually love it and, if it works for you, then this fair can be a lot of fun.

Think Victorian, old Jules Verne movies - Journey to the Center of the Earth, A Trip to the Moon, 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, and the like. Lots of hardware, goggles, top hats, and tight (& sexy) corsets for the ladies.

It’s easy, ok? Try a mix of Gothic, military, aviator, adventurer, explorer, and pirate, and throw a little Borg in and you’ll t in perfectly.

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023 Page 33

Big Red Eye; New Jersey’s own Bigfoot!” Since Backroads Central is found on the edge of the infamous Bear Swamp - where a serious number of Big Red Eye stories evolved - we were very happy to meet Michael Familant, the producer and lead investigator of the In Search of Big Red Eye Project.

Previously we came across Michael on the New York State Thruway, while heading to Americade. It was hard to miss his small SUV with the “ISOBRE” livery.

We followed up while O’Life was penning his piece and it was most excellent to meet him in person.

If you are a believer (Hi Kate) or not – In Search of Big Red Eye is part of what makes New Jersey Joisey!

As we searched through the vendors we began to pick up all sorts of odd things. Some Steampunk monkeys for MWAG, Shira found an old racing sun hat, adorned with the Joe Camel GT logos; but the best was this big honkin’ Steampunk pistol that was just crying to be put in the hands of one of the denizens of Monkey with a Gun! This was a Rock & Roll Festival too… with live music provided by A Halo Called Fred,

Psych-A-Billy, and headlined by The Slambovian Circus of Dreams.

The band was set up in a shaded area, with the warmish sun being blocked by the buildings along Washington Avenue.

The music was light and fun, and the tight and very together musicians blended well with the Steampunk feel of the day.

We ran into Erin Burnett, from the folks at Explore Warren, and got to talk about all the things, places and events the county has to offer today’s rider… and it is plenty. Was that a not too obvious shout-out to Warren County. Maybe.

In truth, other than spending time with Ron and his crew, having our suspension ne-tuned at Washington Cycle Works, we’d never really walked around the town.

There are a few standout things to see. One of the places that we have

Page 34 BACKROADS • APRIL 2023

that really got us was Get A Grip & More.

This place deserves its own story as it is rmly in the WTF? Category. Think an oversized hardware, antiques, garage sale sort of business that had so much that it has to be seen and explored for a good bit just to get into the correct perspective.

We certainly will be back… with a truck.

We had gone down to check out the Steampunk world but found much more in Warren County’s Washington.

always taken notice of is the church. It is caked Greenstone and with apparent reason. The green and red granite stone that was used to create this stunning United Methodist Church is simply breathtaking. The church was so well thought out and built it catches the eye of folks riding by in an almost magical way.

There is the Buttzville Brewery, and the Swirl & Chill Ice Cream Lounge (for Shira), but the place

The Rock & Roll Steampunk will be back this year, April 29 from 10am-5pm. You can nd out more here: www.washingtonbid.org/rock-nroll-steampunk-fair

We’ll remind you on The Backroads Report as we get closer to that. In the meantime, re up that boiler-powered two-wheel contraption and get going… along the backroads of course. ,

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023 Page 35

Richard Leisenring, Jr.

In July of 1902, Glenn H. Curtiss founded the G. H. Curtiss Manufacturing Company in Hammondsport, NY, with the express intentions of offering to the public not only a motorcycle but a one-cylinder internal combustion engine of high quality and ef ciency for the public to build their own or use for other purposes. 2022 marked the 120th anniversary of that occasion which is truly the “Dawn of a Legacy.” The Glenn H. Curtiss Museum in Hammondsport, New York will be celebrating this event with a yearlong exhibition which opened on August 5th, 2022, of over fteen Curtiss built cycles (the largest ever held under one roof) as well as a large number of competitor companies, all built between 1902 and 1912. This exhibition is possible with the generous help of these institutions: Barber Motorsports Museum, Birmingham, AL; Harley-Davidson Museum, Milwaukee, WI; Buffalo Transportation Pierce-Arrow Museum, Buffalo, NY; Ner-a-car Motorcycle Museum, Syracuse, NY and Northeast Classic Car Museum, Norwich, NY as well as ten private collectors.

Presented here is how it all started. History tells us that Glenn was, in 1899, a champion bicycle racer, a

newlywed and a new business owner with a bicycle shop on the Hammondsport village square. He would open a second retail shop just down the road in Bath the following year.

Always looking ahead, Curtiss began experimenting on his own motorcycle design. No one knows exactly when or why Glenn decided to make a motorcycle, but in the summer of 1900, with the help of his wife Lena’s uncle, Frank Neff, the process of experimentation soon began taking place. In mid-October, the pair publicly announced their one-cylinder machine was about ready for road testing. Using stock engine castings purchased possibly through mail order, their rst attempt proved too large, heavy and over powered.

Page 36 BACKROADS • APRIL 2023

More experimentation continued into 1901, with the second machine propelled by a smaller underpowered engine. Frustrated with the outcome, Glenn sought out his friend Charles Kirkham who was working for his father at the Kirkham machine shop and foundry not far from the village. This collaboration resulted in a light weight, one-cylinder 2.5 hp engine utilizing ball bearings in the casing which could attain 40 mph. Installing this on the second machine in place of the underpowered engine proved to be the success he was looking for.

In the spring of 1902, having sold the improved machine, Glenn built a third, a tandem, which was also promptly sold. Encouraged by various inquiries and his rst sales, Curtiss went public that July forming the G. H. Curtiss Manufacturing Company. Shortly afterwards he opened a third store in Corning.

Glenn contracted with Kirkham to produce the engines and a fabricator in Addison, New York, to produce the frames. He and anyone he could enlist to help would assemble the nished product.

In his rst advertisement of the year, Glenn offered not only a complete motorcycle, but also an engine separately or castings to build your own. The pair improved the engine the following year by switching the ball bearings to roller bearings in the casing for a smoother operation. Looking for a label that would be as strong as the machines he built, Curtiss would settle on the name Hercules for both his motorcycles and engines.

His need to stay in competitive sports prompted Glenn to try his hand at racing his machines. This endeavor on a one-cylinder Hercules took place on Labor Day, September 1st on Coney Island Boulevard in Brooklyn, New York, sponsored by the New York Motor Cycle Club. Curtiss would win a third-place medal against 15 contestants in the 10-mile Handicap Race and a second-place trophy for overall time. As an unheard-of newcomer, this placing garnered him more than a curious notice from the racing community. By the end of the year, it is estimated he had sold ve machines under the Hercules name.

Curtiss, now totally absorbed in motorcycles, issued his rst catalog in late February of 1903 and by April 1st dropped sales of bicycles com-

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023 Page 37

pletely, including the closing of all of his retail shops. The Hammondsport shop on the village square was now a manufacturing facility and was retained at least through 1905 as the company grew and nally relocated to his home property.

The new year was proving to be very successful for Curtiss. While overwhelmed, the shop reportedly produced and shipped twenty cycles as well as an unknown number of engines in the rst ve months, outgrowing the small back room of his Hammondsport village shop. This was expanded to include the large barn in the back. Lena would join the business as the of ce manager. Less than a full year in business, the shop now employed up to seven men on a regular basis.

To better his rst race, Curtiss set out to develop a more powerful engine, again with the help of Charles Kirkham. Their new creation, the V-Twin or two-cylinder, air-cooled, 5 hp engine, the rst of its kind in the United States, which powered his new Hercules, was publicly offered

in April. The machine made its debut in New York City at the New York Motorcycle Club Riverdale Hill Climb on May 30th. He easily took rst place out of the 20 entrants, winning a gold medal. Heading directly to Yonkers a few miles away, Glenn won the National Cycling Association Championship medal for the onemile and a rst-place medal for the vemile races at the Empire City Race Track, thereby vindicating himself for his perceived loss the year before. More astonishing was the fact that for the one-mile race he set a world speed record. To Glenn’s embarrassment, he was hailed as a hero with a parade by the community on his return to Hammondsport.

Glenn’s V-twin immediately became the focus of the industry with other companies looking to develop their own based on his concept. (Indian Motorcycles commercially offered their rst 2-cylinder engine in 1906, followed by Harley–Davidson in 1909.)

His high pro le in the new motorcycle industry, would also attract attention from the edgling aeronautical community with inquiries and visits from a variety of experimenters over the next few years for various engine designs. Each one trying to perfect the art of manned ight with their newfangled machines.

From July 1902 to July 1903, Hammondsport and New York State would be witness to the birth of a series of Curtiss companies and the dawning of one man’s legacy that lives on to this day 120 years later. ,

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

A FEWFROM NELSON RIGG

HURRICANE RIGGPAK CRASH BAR TAIL BAG SE-4005 • $4995

The newest addition to the Hurricane 100% waterproof Luggage collection is the RiggPack 5 Liter Crash Bar Tail Bag. This bag can mount to crash bars, luggage racks, roll bars, UTV seats and grab handles, PWC, Snowmobiles and EV bikes it is truly an “anywhere” bag.

The Hurricane RiggPak is made of heavy-duty UV treated PVC tarpaulin material with electronically heat welded seams and a roll top closure, so the contents will stay dry and dust free even in extreme weather.

Attachment is easy with either of the 2-way adjustable quick release web straps or the versatile hook-loop web straps which can be used individually or in collaboratively. This versatile bag will t almost all applications. Expanding on the universal application, it features a removeable anti-slip back panel that allows riders to t the bag worry free to a seat, or painted surface. When the panel is removed, it exposes the MOLLE straps which allow the RiggPak to be attached to any MOLLE panel.

The main compartment is 6.25”L x 4”W x 12”H, with a full cap[city of 5 liters. This Hurricane RiggPak is one of 9 pieces which make up the Hurricane Collection which also consists of the following: SE-3060 Dual Sport Tank Bag, SE-4008 Adventure Tank

dlebags, SE-4025 25L Duf e Bag, SE-4030 Backpack / Tail Pack, SE-4040 40L Duf

Like all Nelson Rigg and Rigg Gear luggage these Hurricane Saddlebags feature a lifetime warranty giving the rider the utmost con dence in the quality of any luggage choice for “wherever the journey takes you”.

RIGG STRAPS KIT • $1995

Nelson Rigg continues to expand their Rigg Gear brand of luggage and luggage accessories with the introduction of the RiggStrap™ Kit. They utilize a patented aluminum RiggStraps™ cam-hook buckle with heavy-duty webbing and are adjustable up to 60”. With a max pull force of 100 lbs. this strap Kit is perfect for tying down a variety of items. The soft looped ends can securely girth hitch to nearly any bar, rack, frame, or seat. The aircraft grade aluminum cam-hook buckle with alligator teeth securely bites into the webbing for unwavering grip. The cam-hook can even attach to any MOLLE panel.

These RiggStraps™ kits have been tested on street bikes, touring bikes, adventure bikes, dirt bikes, ATV’s, UTV’s, Spyders, Slingshots, PWC’s, Snowmobiles… and we have yet to nd a vehicle on which they will not work.

These RiggStraps™ are sold as a pair of 60” straps and they carry a 5-Year Warranty.

Please Note: RiggStraps™ kits are NOT intended for towing or as a vehicle tie-down.

Nelson Rigg USA, a family-owned business for (over) 40 years specializing in the design and production of quality motorcycle cvers, luggage and rainwear. For more information, please visit your local dealer, our website at www.nelsonrigg.com or email us at info@nelsonrigg.com

BACKROADS • APRIL 2023 Page 39
Bag, SE-4010 10L Roll Bag, SE-4014 Dual Sport Sad- e Bag, and SE-4050 Hurricane Saddlebags

The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully

A column dedicated to your riding survival

PRODUCT PLACEMENT

It is hard to miss those ubiquitous disclaimers that precede every TV show or lm these days and in addition to sex, drugs & Rock & Roll, strobes, and possibly actual humor one mentioned “product placement.”

As if I should be fearful that strategically placed can of Coca-Cola, that bottle of Heineken, or that very pretty Ducati or Triumph would cause irreputable harm to my fair psyche.

Oh, and why is every scene with motorcycles these days almost always ridden by evil henchmen with Uzis?

Yes, I could go on about how motorcycles are portrayed in the media… but that’ll be for another time.

I do wish to talk about Product Placement of another type.

The ‘product’ being your motorcycle, and the ‘placement’… where it should be placed as you are riding along the backroads.

I have heard it said that there is only one line through a turn - the right one. But, different situations, traf c and conditions can make your planned trajectory problematic and, sometimes, in need of immediate correction.

Our friend and riding instructor extraordinaire Ken Condon (www. ridinginthezone.com) is a rm believer in the “Late Apex.” In January we sat in on one of Ken’s wonderfully bene cial Wednesday Night Zoom Meetings, brought to us by the New England Riders - a riding club tru-

ly dedicated to the ride and ne ambassadors for the sport. Each week covered a different topic, but this particular night was about Cornering Lines, and Ken spoke at length about becoming pro cient in using the Late Apex on a consistent basis.

Our friend Reg Pridmore also speaks of the Late Apex as being the cleaner line and clearly the way to lower lap times on the track, and making sure you arrive alive on the street.

The main advantage of a late apex line through a corner is that it allows you to begin accelerating earlier. And the earlier you begin accelerating, the faster you’re likely to be down the following straightaway.

Power-wise think “Slow in. Fast out.”

If you come in too tight, and hit the apex way too early, you will go wide. In left-handed curves that means heading off the road. In righthanded curves the even worse possibility of running into oncoming trafc.

Both are bad form and can have bad outcomes.

Picking a later apex will also give you a better view of what is coming your way… that oncoming F-150, that deer on the road, or simply the next turn and the lay of the roadway up ahead.

I have been behind many riders, especially newer riders, that go “pencing” through turns. The term come from our British counterparts that describe when a rider constantly tilts and leans back and forth in tiny increments, never committing to a smooth arc through the turn.

It is a shaky approach and a habit that screams of a lack of con dence.

If you could see up close the amount of inputs a professional racer is executing to set themselves up as they approach and initiate a turn and the amount that even experienced riders apply, you might be shocked at how little the elite riders need to execute compared to the average street riders. Beginners and those lacking re nement and skill have way too much going on.

It is all about smooth.

By working on utilizing ‘Late Apexes’ you will nd you will begin to naturally calm down and your con dence will rise.

But how do you know you are getting it right?

A few years back writer Dan Bisbee wrote about nding the apex and stated… “Find the exit rst, and the apex becomes readily apparent.”

Then look where you want to go – always!

These are words you can live by.

There was a tee-shirt I saw once that simply said, “Look, Lean, Believe! You do have to have faith in yourself and your machine.

Constant practice on your riding skills can only make you a better and more con dent rider and add so much more to your riding enjoyment. ,

Page 40 BACKROADS • APRIL 2023

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