August 2023

WHAT’S INSIDE

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

Publishers Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors Mark Byers, John Ciribassi, Pamela Collins, Dr. Seymour O’Life

Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822

phone 973.948.4176

fax 973.948.0823

email editor@backroadsusa.com

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2023. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without speci c written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed suf cient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip &Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

I Think I Got a Screw Loose

Idioms: a group of words established by usage as having a meaning not deducible from those of the individual words - e.g., raining cats and dogs, see the light.

Did you know idioms were called idioms? Well, let me spill the beans here on this…

We use idioms all the time – and I think many times we are clueless about what or why we say what we say. But we seem to say things like this all day long; till the cows come home.

The other day, at the end of a great Mother’s Day ride, I began to think I had a screw loose, and I told Shira such over our Bluetooth comms.

“You just figured that out now,” came her reply. Nice.

This idiom originates from the cotton industry and goes back to the 1780s when textiles began to be mass-produced during the industrial revolution. Large factories were built and equipped with the latest technology, but it proved difficult to maintain all the machines in working order. Any machine that stopped working or produced faulty cloth was deemed to “have a screw loose” somewhere.

My concern at that moment was not my mental stability – but rather the fact that my gauge was playing games with me – pulling my leg just a bit.

All this began about 20 minutes earlier when I glanced down at the gauges of my Kawasaki Z900RS and saw that the light for the KTRC (Traction Control) was lit up – signifying something was amiss. This is a great little bike, bought as an “On Any Sunday” machine.

I say little now, but the machine that this was modeled after – the 1973 Z-1 - was a big bike back in the day. This new version had so far been steady as a rock and has brought me through thick and thin.

But the KTRC light was noticed and then a few miles later the gauges went dead, then came back on…

“Oh, oh.”

This continued for another few miles and we were close enough to home that I thought it best to keep on keeping on and limp the bike back to the friendly confines of Backroads Central’s barn.

Turning off Route 94 the bike gave up the ghost.

I had a feeling what was going on, although I called the wrong post.

With Shira waving drivers around (more than half of whom stopped to ask if I needed help, I might add – thank you NJ!) I took off the seat and quickly found a loose battery cable.

But did I have a screwdriver? Ah, yes.

For the want of a nail…

You see, in my haste and hurry I did miss the little screwdriver that Kawasaki has hidden in the seat pan and passes off as a complete tool kit these days; and tightened the battery post connection with a great little multi-tool Shira had with her.

When we returned home I tightened everything up battery-wise, but the KTRC light still stayed lit.

I did a little searching on this issue and, according to multiple sources on the web, this is what Big Green’s manual states to do to clear this code error:

Service Code Erasing

+ If the Kawasaki Diagnostic System (KDS Ver.3) is not available, do the following procedures.

1. Turn on the ignition switch and start the engine.

Continued on Page 6

One World

As long as there have been more than two motorcycles on the planet, there has been the ‘Us vs Them’ battle: American vs Any Other Country, Cruiser vs Adventure, Small vs Large CC…

Backroads Magazine was born from one of these. Over 30 years ago, Brian had seen a flyer inviting motorcyclists to join a riding group. It was local and he was looking for like-minded riders so he showed up one Sunday. To his dismay, his Kawasaki 600 Ninja was ‘not up to their cc standards’. He came home more than a bit miffed, told me his tale, and I said, ‘Why not just start your own riding club?’ Thus the beginning of Sport Touring Motorcycle Club, with its newsletter which eventually became the magazine you are holding in your hands.

Just the other day, I was reading Common Tread, Revzilla’s e-newsletter, and Zack Gagnon’s article entitled ‘Why LGBTQ Motorcyclists Can’t Just Be A Rider

Like Everyone Else.’ Bottom line: he was saying that the motorcycle industry was decidedly biased against the LGBTQ+ society. He had experienced prejudice towards his lifestyle decisions and expressed his dismay that he couldn’t be himself in his workplace and had to hide his true self due to this. He felt that he could not enjoy and expand his love of motorcycles with other like-minded motorcycle enthusiasts because of the ’signals he got of not being welcome.’ I was somewhat flummoxed, as we have many riders of different persuasions in our Backroads group and have never seen any sign of prejudice towards anyone. Throughout our 30 years of being in the motorcycle industry, certainly many things have changed regarding gay/lesbian+ riders, and I can say that I can’t ‘live in their skin’ so do not know the way they may have been treated or the messages they may have gotten, but I can say that within our Backroads ‘family’ I have not seen any disrespect or any other demeaning behavior.

With the growing discussions and presence in the news on the topic of transgender, Brian and I have had conversations and they all come down to the same final point, at least in our household: we don’t care who or what you are, what you do in your own home or how you see yourself. As long as you aren’t hurting anyone, and hopefully not hurting yourself, live and let live. I’m not going into the biological men in women’s sports debate – too volcanic; if you’d like my opinion, ask me privately. I believe that people – ALL PEOPLE – have the right to be happy and be able to be who they choose to be and follow their dreams and desires. What their sexual preferences are is absolutely irrelevant, especially when it comes to motorcycling. As a matter of fact, there are very few times that you can make a distinction of who or what a rider may be – religiously, sexually, politically - when they ride past you or with you, and it just doesn’t make any difference at all.

Our passion for motorcycling is a great equalizer. However, I do have an absolute prejudice regarding motorcyclists and it has to do with riding capabilities and gear. Again, over our many years of holding Backroads gatherings of all sorts, there have been very few times when someone has shown up with a motorcycle that is excessively loud. While we did not turn them away, we did suggest that they ride at the back of whatever group they may join.

I do remember at a very early get together – perhaps it was a Sport Touring ride, when a couple showed up on a sportbike. He was dressed in proper riding gear but his passenger, a pretty woman, was poorly lacking in coverage with shorts, perhaps sandals too. Brian, in his always adorable fashion, told the rider how pretty his girlfriend was and what lovely legs she had and that he was, presumably, a most excellent rider. The rider, of course, gave him a questioning, slightly jealous scowl, to which Brian answered that it would be a shame for her long, lovely legs to have a medicinal scrub at the hospital after any unscheduled get-off. The couple returned the following week, the pillion dressed in leathers.

Continued on Page 6

I believe that people – ALL PEOPLE – have the right to be happy and be able to be who they choose to be and follow their dreams and desires.

Goin’ Solo

I like riding solo. I like being without a passenger, but I also like being without any other motorcyclists. Sometimes, it’s nice not to have to consider anyone else’s route or hotel or food or pace preferences and just do whatever strikes my own, selfish fancy. I recently took five hours to go 50 miles down the Blue Ridge Parkway just so I could stop at several of the tiny family cemeteries that dot the top of the mountains. I also stopped and took photos every time I wanted, even doing U-turns in some cases. I found a Benedictine monastery I had no idea was there, so that was one reward. But there are many rewards for traveling solo.

Recently, I had four days between moto jobs, so I “planned” on doing some solo riding in between gigs. I put “planned” in quotes because I really had only the most vague notion of where I was going to ride, save for a stop in Floyd, VA to have Kathy’s Journey Designs repair one of my saddlebag liners. I figured I’d have a nice dinner in Floyd and retire to the hotel to pore over the maps (yes maps) and plan the rest of my journey. Hah! As Robert Burns said, “The best laid schemes o’ mice an’ men gang aft agley.”

One look at the forecast that evening told me that the next three days were going to be “sporty.” Rain. More rain. Wind. More wind. Flood warnings. Gale warnings. Lightning and all the accoutrements of three crappy days for motorcycling. But…I was riding solo. I had no one to satisfy but myself, so after a really nice, rainy morning spent with the saddlebag liner ladies, I sauntered back to the hotel desk in Floyd and booked two more nights of blissful solitude, doing some reading, listening to music, and just basking in the freedom of not answering to anyone but myself.

It really is nice to be selfish sometimes. If a diner looks good, it doesn’t matter if it’s got a half-caff, low-fat, gluten-free, whatever-the-heck, I can stop and I have only myself to blame if it doesn’t come up to anyone’s standards. As I was leaving Roanoke, it was Father’s Day Sunday, but I didn’t have any

issues at the restaurant I chose because there was a solo seat at the bar and the bar service was pretty good. Eating flexibility is really nice and traveling solo is the ultimate in that category - there is almost always a single seat at the bar. In Floyd, I opened the door to Dogtown, a famous local eatery with frequent “open mic nights,” but the noise coming from the stage was so bad that I closed it and went to the Mex place next door. Later, a guy at the hotel described it as a small animal being tortured.

That guy, it turns out, was a fellow BMW rider and University professor who spontaneously decided to take a ride from Chapel Hill to Floyd to just hang out. In a short time between rain showers, we shared stories over the bikes in the parking lot and he even gave me a snort of his Maker’s Mark, the smell of which was driving me crazy as we talked. Chances are, if I’d had a companion with whom to talk, I wouldn’t have even met him, much less had the excellent conversation we shared over a whiskey.

I snore. OK, I imitate a motorcycle in my sleep, or so I’m told. Another advantage of solo travel is that it doesn’t matter if you snore or have any other peccadillos: no one can complain. I have spent many nights having to room with other people on bicycle race officiating trips and I have had a wide selection of roommates. Several have had no issues with my nocturnal noisiness, some have had mild reactions, and one was lucky to have lived through the night without me smothering him with a pillow for keeping me up all night, shouting my name and awakening me every time I started to snore. He shall forever be known as “Hollerin’ John” for that. Fortunately, we were able to exchange roommates before I had to slay him. Personally, I just carry earplugs should someone have the reciprocal problem.

There’s a lot to be said for setting out alone with only your personal agendaif any - in mind. There’s a freedom to stopping (or not) anywhere and anytime you want for any reason you deem appropriate. Whether it’s the story you find on the stones in some remote graveyard or the stories you share with some former stranger in the parking lot of a hotel, you might be alone, but you’re never quite lonely. ,

Brian & Shira,

As I read ‘Looking Back’, and sharing experiences with memorable fellow riders and motorcycle industry friends, it was not necessarily the places we rode, the villages that we explored, nor the regional food and drink that we shared. It was who we shared all those elements of history and camaraderie that left the lasting impression: Friendship is the name of the sauce on the journey. While the journey and the adventure to the unknown around the next bend was the attraction, the actual magnet is who we shared those exciting rides with is the formula for lasting bonds of friendship!

BurtRichmond

Free Wheelin’

Continued from Page 3

2. Keep the idling speed for more than 30 seconds.

3. Run the vehicle for more than 5 minutes at a speed of 40 km/h (25 mph) or more.

Be sure to keep the engine running during procedures 2 and 3 for more than 10 minutes in total.

4. Turn the ignition switch off.

5. Repeat the above procedures 3 times.

6. Start the engine and check the yellow engine warning indicator light

Either Kawasaki or the web has a screw loose, I think.

After reading this I wondered if that would work in May, or just months that end in the letter R, or if I would have to point the bike at True North.

My original Z-1 would never have had this problem, and my running joke is that the new Z looks just like my first serious crush – but this crush has a college degree and credit rating.

It also has a new Cruz-Tool Pack tucked away for future rides. Just in case one of us, the rider or machine, has a screw loose.

PS: I didn’t attempt this loony procedure but instead took the Z to Town & Country Cycle Center in Hamburg, NJ, where they expertly, and quickly, got rid of said error code. ,

Shira and Brian,

I read Shira’s article about lights with great interest as I agree with every single one of her thoughts. Minutes ago I discussed the topic with my 24 year old daughter. She and I leave for work at 4:30 in the morning, traveling only 5 to 6 miles through northern Bergen County, she to Old Tappan New Jersey and I to Tappan New York. In that time, we may pass at least a dozen deer or more. Now, let’s throw the thought of front brake lights into that equation. A deer is crossing the road, we don’t see it but the other driver does, raises our awareness, don’t you think. I believe, as you both do, that front facing brake lights would be an enormous help to all drivers and especially us two wheeled

Whatchathinkin’

Continued from Page 4

Seeing riders dressed as if they are going to the beach is very disturbing. It’s a terrible thought, but I tend to ignore them, opting to not return a wave, as they take such little regard for their own safety and potential harm. While they may be excellent riders, like the example of the young couple on the sportbike, the inherent risks of riding a motorcycle due to others on the road as well as accidents, animals, weather, etm. should be enough to fully prepare with proper riding gear for whatever may happen and try to minimize the damage. Thus, my prejudice towards ill-garbed riders.

It boggles my mind how motorcyclists can go through years of riding and think that they know all there is to know about it. My father used to say that you should learn something new every day and the same goes for riding a motorcycle. Being so arrogant to think that you are at the pinnacle of your riding capabilities makes for a poorer rider – there is always something that can be learned or improved. Taking classes of all sorts will increase your skills, awareness and enjoyment of the thing that we love so much. So, yes, I am prejudiced towards those who will not do this.

With so many great adventures and roads to be ridden, once the helmet is donned and the engine is started, all stereotypes and stigmas should evaporate and there will just be riders, of all shapes, colors and beliefs, in one world. ,

operators. Brian, I think you need to do more research on how to push this into the car automotive industry, but remember to make a buck off of it! Just sayin, unbelievable idea. And Shira, I reminded her why I walk around turning the lights off after her!

Long time reader

Charlie Haffler • Retired, Westwood, NJ PD

Greetings,

The latest issue offers plenty of possibilities to fill my riding season. Thank you!

I am surrounded by great roads. As a matter of fact, PA and NY are my favorite. I’ve ridden in most of the 50 states and lots of Canada and am always enamored when I ride over Jonestown mountain into Berwick.

I just came back from a four day ride that took me through the Bear Mountain area. I think if the June issue of Backroads was in my box before I left I would have recalculated. The closest I came was Perkins Memorial Tower. Regardless, I’m looking forward to making a trip out of the Riegelsville Inn. The URL for the route for the Riegelsville Inn does not seem to be working. I’ve been able to download others that you reference from sendspace. Can you send me the gpx or perhaps update the URL?

I always use Backroads (and RoadRunner) to help plan my trips. For this past trip, I used the February 2015 issue of Backroads as a guide. I had a blast looking for The Eye of Platte Clove Road. I rode by it on my first pass but was able to find it.

I’m trying to juggle a few things with work so that I can attend the Grand Finale Road Rally.

Take care and thanks again!

Kind regards,

Brian Lewis • Berwick, PA

Shira,

I already told Brian but great job on the June articles. WHATCHATHINKIN was relatable for every riderand had me thinking about a recent ride from Hermy’s. It was a beautifulday so I didn’t want to pick my Speed Triple up with the trailer so my amazing wife agreed to drop me off so I could ride home. Twice! On the way home I had vehicles with their left turn signal on

turn right. I almost had a helmet fire I was so pissed but showed restraint. Thankfully I had maintained a buffer and a way out on both occasions. I believe that scenario combines two of your annoyances. They forgot their turn signal from their last left turn and then failed to signal right…three if all their lights are on at home while trying to smash me on the road.

I think it’s awesome you’re tackling your “Others” as far as riding skills. Fighter pilots would debrief “Goods” and “Others” mistakes, weaknesses or maneuvers and decisions that need improvement. But being Fighter Pilots we made no mistakes, had no weaknesses and always made the right decisions… God I miss it.You mentioned theparadigm shift required from road to dirt and that’s a “no shitter”. Going from my GSXR to my Gasgas requires a complete mental shift. For years I flew the F/A-18 in the Marine Reserves while flying the767 at United. Then I flew the A-10 in the Guard while flying theAirbus-320. Talk about paradigm shift. Believe me I never got the two confused in the air but did take massive ridicule for checking in on the radio atthe bombing range leading a flight of 4 hogs with the callsign Jetblue vs Ugly flight…oops! Beer for my entire flight copy that. I don’t believe the required paradigm shift is a switch to be flicked between road/dirt but instead it’s a procedural shift. When flying the different aircraft Iwould mentally shift modes as I changed into my military or airline uniform. My mental shift was complete after briefing the flight and off we would go. I wear different gear when riding road vs dirt and believe the mental shift begins when I done my adventure boots and KLIM gear vs Dianese leathers. By the time I get on the bike I’m in that mode and read to go.Keep up the great work.

Tim O’Toole

Dear Brian & Shira...

Just when I think that Backroads couldn’t get any more relevant to me, personally, than it already is, out comes the June 2023 issue. Holy cowflops, Batman!

First there’s Brian’s article about Garmin’s BaseCamp. I have a Garmin Zumo 396-LMT and just last week I was shopping for a mount to install it on the DR650. And a little voice said “it looks like Garmin’s phasing this out. Maybe you should just get the XT instead.” Nah, I said. That 396 will be good for years yet. But now Garmi’s dumping Base Camp (which I loathe and fear

Backlash

Continued from Page 9 and find totally inscrutable anyway) so now I’ll have to learn--or attempt to learn--some horrible new mapping software? Just kill me now!

Then Shira’s rant about the (mis)use of headlights and turn signals in cars and motorcycles...too right!

“Thoughts from the Road” about lane positioning and visibility is so true. It’s so easy to lose a motorcycle’s head-or-tail light in the rest of the traffic. And so few motorcycles have good marker lights to help them stand out from the background. And a visible-as-possible lane positioning is crucial. (My boss even advocates waggling the bike in a “crazy ivan”motion when coming to an intersection, just to keep the car drivers guessing.)

Then the GAADR visits the Riegelsville Inn, a whole 15 minutes from my house! I only actually had lunch there once, with Lauren and Bob, some years ago. I thought the food was great and the prices at that time were quite reasonable. Then up to Bethlehem, just a little jaunt up River Rd from Riegelsville. It really is a beautiful old city. Worth a good afternoon of walking and riding around.

And of course the Gathering of the Nortons! I thought the new venue was excellent, especially if it’s a chilly, windy day, as that building would provide a perfect windbreak on three sides. And we found a great breakfast place called “Maggie’s” right up Rt 12.

Shira’s story about DC Dirt Camp was wonderful. I attended their Clutch Capable class last year (rode the CRF230F) and did a second class with my V-Strom in preparation for the MABDR last year. Could not have survived that trip without DC Dirt Camp. (BTW I still cannot “relax” when letting the bike tip into a turn, weight on the outside peg. I will continue to work on it, but after all those years learning to hang my weight to the INSIDE...my subconscious grabs the reins and screams “Danger! Danger, Will Robinson!” And finally the story about Madstad Windshields. I never HEARD of them until I searched for a shield for the DR650. I bought a really cool one from them that has a high position for highway riding, and it also tucks down low when you want to leave the pavement. It’s beautifully made and works great. Whew! I’m exhausted after all that exciting reading. Hope you all have a perfect summer!

Stephanie Feld

INDUSTRY INFOBITES News from the Inside

CALIFORNIA APPROVES EXEMPTIONFOR SIKH RIDERFROM HELMET LAWS

Sikhs and others whose faith requires them to wear a turban or patka could soon be allowed to ride motorcycles in California without a helmet as mandated by state law, as the State Senate voted 21-8 on June 1st to grant a religious exemption for the headwear.

“Freedom of religion is a core foundation of this country,” said State Senator Brian Dahle (RBieber), who sponsored Senate Bill 847. “We, as Americans, have the right to freely express our religion and I believe that right should equally extend to everyone.”

Sikh turbans and patkas are considered articles of faith for believers.

“Although other countries and our own military make accommodations for Sikhs’ deep beliefs, out of the U.S. states that require helmets, none has exemptions for Sikhs or any other group based on religious practice,” according to Sen. Dahle. SB 847 now moves to the Assembly.

LAWMAKERS LOOKINGTO RE-ESTABLISH MOTORCYCLIST ADVISORY COMMITTEE

Several members of the U.S. House of Representatives are urging Department of Transportation Secretary Pete Buttigieg to re-establish the Motorcyclist Advisory Committee (MAC). The MAC was supposed to be re-established within 90 days of the Motorcyclist Advisory Council Reauthorization Act of 2021 becoming law, expanding membership seats to include manufacturers, motorcyclists rights organizations and safety professionals, yet over a year has passed since its enactment with no action thus far by the DOT.

In the joint letter to the Transportation Secretary, the group of Congressmembers write in part; «Unfortunately, despite the requirement that the MAC be established within 90 days of enactment it appears no such

action has been taken. While we understand the many priorities you manage at the Department of Transportation, this critical Council must be instated to ensure the safety of motorcyclists.

BMWINTELLIGENT EMERGENCY CALL

Intelligent Emergency Call is available as standard or as an option for the following models and series in the USA and Canada for model year 2024: F 900 R and XR (optional) K 1600x (standard), R 1250x (standard), R 18 B and Transcontinental (standard), S 1000 R / RR (standard), CE 04 (standard). Intelligent Emergency Call adds a covered SOS button, loudspeaker and microphone to the right-side handlebar controls.

The eCall system uses BMW Motorrad Connected Services which can be activated during new vehicle delivery to the customer. When pressed, the SOS button connects the rider to an agent who can be advised verbally of the general situation, of the level of injury, if one exists and who can contact emergency services, if required. If a motorcycle falls or crash is detected, an eCall is automatically placed.

RECORD SETFOR MOST NATIONS VISITEDIN ONE DAY

A prominent motorcycle journalist has broken a world record for visiting the most amount of countries while riding a motorcycle in one 24-hour period.

Moto-writer Thierry Sarasyn started his ride in southern Poland, strategically chosen because of its close proximity to a significant number of other countries before ending his trip in the Netherlands.

At the end of his record-setting journey, Thierry racked up an impressive 1,367 miles, visiting 15 countries, and completed the feat in just 22 hours, yet breaking no speed limits and no local road traffic laws. That meant he had to basically ride 1,300 miles, through different countries all with varying traffic laws, in less than 24 hours.

TRIUMPH SETS NEW 24 ENDURANCE RECORD

Spanish Enduro Champion Iván Cervantes has set a new Guinness World Record for the longest distance ridden by one person on a motorcycle, by riding 4,012km (2,493 miles) in 24 hours on April 30, 2023 aboard his Triumph Tiger 1200 GT Explorer.

The previous record, set at 3,406km (2,116 miles), was achieved by American rider Carl Reese on February 26, 2017, recording an average speed over 24 hours of 141.9kph (88.2mph). Cervantes’ record therefore extends the record by 606km (377 miles), and with an average speed of 167.8kph (104.3mph).

There was a total of 18 pitstops, around every 1.5hours, with 520-litres of fuel used.

When asked if he slept during the event, the fivetime Enduro World Champion and Triumph Global Ambassador admitted: “Believe me I tried, but after 10 minutes I couldn’t sleep because of all the adrenaline inside my body.”

FIRST-EVER WOMEN’S RACING CHAMPIONSHIP COMING

The Fédération Internationale de Motocyclisme (FIM) has officially announced the beginning of an entirely new racing series for 2024, and this time the circuit will be all about women racers, and will be called the FIM Women’s Motorcycling World Championship.

Women from all over the world will be invited to race in this new Championship, and tentative plans for the opening season will include at least six rounds, with two races held per round, and will “primarily run alongside the MOTUL FIM Superbike World Championship” starting in March or April of next year.

DUCATI HONOREDBY ITALIAN POSTAGE STAMP

Does your favorite motorcycle manufacturer have an official postage stamp from its country of origin? If you’re a Ducatista it does, as the Italian national postal service, Poste Italiane, officially released its special Ducati stamp collection on June 9, 2023 crafted in honor of the 2022 Ducati MotoGP World

The stamp depicts a stylized drawing of the Ducati GP22 MotoGP machine, roaring around a chicane painted in the tricolor of the Italian flag, along with a laurel wreath and text that reads “2022 Campioni Del Mondo Ducati” in the upper right corner.

Championship won by the Ducati team led by Factory rider Francesco “Pecco” Bagnaia.

BBQ presents GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN

Muddy Waters GastropuB 1090 NJ-173, Asbury, NJ 08802

908-713-1090 • muddywAtersNJ com

We like to think that many of you have come to expect the unexpected when perusing the pages of Backroads.

We all know there is a formula for an eatery to slide into these pages. Excellent location, great roads in the region, and, of course, seriously good food. This month’s stop on the Great All American Diner Run seems to combine all of these in a nice easy and tasty package.

Welcome to Muddy Watters Gastropub.

Muddy Waters has a unique feel to it. It’s a big building, located along Route 173, right near the border with Warren and Hunterdon Counties, and it has an unusual mix of American Road House and European restaurant combined in a bright and happy way.

The owner, Attila Geczi, has brought novel ideas to western New Jersey. Attila has been asked often, ‘Why the term Gastropub?’

The term gastropub has only been in use since the 1990s. It was first used in Great Britain where pubs are common. A quick search on the internet about gastropubs yields the following explanation: A gastropub is a pub or bar that serves alcoholic beverages as well as high-end, excellent food. A gastropub has a relaxed atmosphere but is also refined. Foods commonly served at gastropubs are gourmet hamburgers, flatbreads, fish and

tasty places to take your bike

chips, and charcuterie platters. The word gastropub is a combination of the word gastronomy, which means the art of choosing, cooking, and appreciating good food, and the word pub, which is an abbreviation of the term public house.

Muddy Waters Gastropub is no different. They take simple Austrian and Hungarian peasant dishes and elevate them with care to restaurant level, by using wonderful ingredients, refined cooking technics, and their palate to turn those ingredients into something that brings them, and hopefully you, joy and happiness. And, in truth, they take this cuisine to an entirely new level. We took a ride down in late spring to enjoy their Sunday Brunch and were wowed by the look and feel of Muddy Waters.

In addition to the great food, that we will soon get to, the Gastropub has some serious Blues and Rock & Roll going regularly and Wednesday Night they have Line Dancing and Thursday evening Muddy Waters has something very cool indeed. It is called The Jam. Think of it as an open mike and community jam.

Whatcha want to play? Punk? Rock? Country or Folk? Whatever it is… you are more than welcome and the house band is there to help you make it all come together. Attila and company have the drums, the PA, and everything else you need; just bring your heart and have fun.

Barnstormer

Now… the food. Remember we were here to talk about food, right?

You can start with some tasty snacks and starters. Hot and Spicy Chicken Lollypops, a board of Salami, Sausage, and Cheese – a superb offering of Baked Spätzle Mac & Cheese are all great ways to whet the appetite.

Their Calamari is spot on and whatcha think of Crispy Brussel Sprouts with Roasted Red Peppers and Maple Syrup?

We are so there.

Some other starters are their Bratwurst, Mashed Potatoes, Sauerkraut with Spicy Mustard, and Pulled Pork Sliders.

But, we will tell you that the Beet Napoleon with Goat Cheese and Arugula served with a delicious Balsamic was simply a work of art.

Almost too pretty to eat. Almost.

You will find three different Artisan Flatbreads – all heading in different but tasty directions, but then we come to Muddy Waters Schnitzel.

This is where the real European flavors come into play with Wiener, Chicken, and Cod Schnitzel. Yep, you can have your Schnitzel three different ways.

On their Main Menu, you will find Norwegian Salmon, BBQ Spareribs, a hearty Chicken Paprikash, Austrian Bread Dumplings, Beef Short Ribs, along with Grandma’s Ragout with pork shoulder, bacon, peas, and fries.

Or you can simply order their superb Muddy Burger which is served with a Paprika Aioli, Caramelized Onions, and Gruyére Cheese. Not your average burger by any stretch.

You know… we’d go into the desserts, but maybe you and your friends should take a ride to Muddy Waters Gastropub and check it all out for yourself? We are sure you will not be disappointed.

See you on the road! ,

Warren County NJ Tourism presents WE’RE OUTTA HERE a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads

hotel tivoli

53 broAdwAy, tivoli, Ny 12583 • 845-757-2100 • hoteltivoli.org

Hidden Gem Along the Hudson

The river bearing the British explorer’s name has a humble start in the Lake Tear of the Clouds, the state’s highest pond that sits 1,000 feet below the summit of Mount Marcy, the state’s highest mountain. The Mohawk tribe called it Marcy Tahawaus, which means Cloud-Splitter, and the clouds that it splits rain down water that follows small creeks and streams until it fills the pond. From here the Hudson begins to head towards the Atlantic Ocean 315 miles away.

Along the shores of the river, you will find many towns, both big and small, and the Hudson River itself has drawn artists and painters to its banks for centuries.

Along the eastern shore, just across and a bit south of Saugerties and its famed lighthouse, you will find the hamlet of Tivoli.

Unlike many of the Hudson River towns that line its shores, and are hard to miss, Tivoli is a hidden gem, and being such, must be sought out.

To the south Tivoli Bays Wildlife Area runs into Bard College (Steely Dan fans take note), and to the north, the river is more or less wild as well until Hudson, New York.

There are just a few ways in and out of Tivoli… but, we’re Backroads and we’ll make sure you get there with a smile.

We had been up this way a season or two ago, on one of Shira’s Inside Scoop Ice Cream Runs to Fortunes Ice Cream Shop; a superb little place that makes some of the best shop-made delights along the river.

Right next door to Fortunes stood the Hotel Tivoli. We made note.

As this season rolled around, in early spring we made plans to revisit the tiny river town and spend a night at the stately place on Tivoli’s crossroads.

The hotel has been the centerpiece of the town for more than a century, and today it is owned and cared for by artists-turned-hoteliers Brice and Helen Marden, who have poured their creativity and passion into every nook and cranny of the Tivoli.

Their art can be found sprinkled about… and each of the Hotel Tivoli’s 11 rooms has a bit of the Marden’s artistic tastes and flair.

We arrived on a day that started as fine as could be but ended with the last 5 miles in a torrential downpour.

Such is Hudson River riding in the spring.

Soggy riders strolling into hotels can be an iffy thing, but Simon handled us easily, with a smile, showed us our room, and told us where we could stash the bikes. Or, if we liked we could just leave them out front – as they would be safe and happy there too.

Our room was great, open, and spacious; like a hotel room should be. We made ourselves at home, and then went for a stroll, exploring the Hotel Tivoli and the town.

In addition to having a superb hotel here in town, the Marden’s hotel also houses The Corner. The Corner has a stunningly beautiful white and gray marble bar and a full restaurant that offers farm-to-table Mediterranean-inspired meals, creative cocktails, and a deep international wine list.

Everything we have heard about Corners sounded great but, unfortunately, we came on one of the few days it was closed.

But, fortunately for us, Tivoli has several decent eateries.

Just down the street, we found Traghaven Whiskey Pub & Company.

Traghaven claims to have more Irish whiskeys that any other bar in the na-

Mexican food that easily rivaled anything we have ever had in Manhattan.

The evening had turned clear but chilly, still a nice post-dinner walk was called for; before heading back to the Hotel Tivoli for the night.

As we said the room was fantastic and the bed one of the more comfortable we have been on in a while – great pillows too.

In the morning we met Paul who showed us to a table for complimentary breakfast – which started with some great yogurt, berries, and homemade granola – great granola (they should sell this). This was followed by thick bacon slices and perfectly perfect eggs – a delicious and filling way to start the day.

We can’t say enough good things about the Hotel Tivoli. Here you have a wonderful small hotel, owned and run by people who care, found in a tiny Hudson River town that looks, acts, and feels like all river towns should be, or wish they could be.

Take a Hudson River Run and point your bikes to the Hotel Tivoli – you will not be disappointed. ,

tion. Big statement from a place that looked like it was dropped into New York from County Cork, but they certainly are close… It would take a long time to taste all they had to offer from the Water of Life.

We stayed for a cocktail or two and then headed back east along Broadway and found a superb meal at Santa Fe Tivoli. This place was bustling, even on a Wednesday, mostly with Bard students, and a few families. Great

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERIOUS AMERICA

the pine Bush uFo & paranorMal MuseuM

86 miAN street, PiNe bush, Ny 12566

845-524-4272 • PiNebushmuseum com

New York State’s X “Marks the Spot” Files

What is it with Pine Bush, New York?

I would have to think that if Fox Mulder were to look to buy a getaway home in New York state he would choose the tiny town of Pine Bush.

Okay… so you ask “Why would he do that, Seymour?”

Well, for some reason, this town, that is about 90 miles north of Manhattan, has become the UFO Capital of the World.

Of the world, Seymour?

Yep, that is what they say.

Pine Bush is on the southern end of the Shawangunk Mountains, which is a 71-mile ridge, all of which is part of a giant elongated mountain that stretches from New York’s Hudson River and ends in the state of Virginia.

There has always been a mystery about these peaks and rocks, and in the last century, other things have been happening up here.

Reports of creatures that roam the region, mysterious lights in the sky, and ancient legends that seem to come back again and again.

In 2010 a giant creature was spotted near Lake Kanawauke – in Harriman State Park – just to the south of The Gunks. The report goes on to state: “Fishermen docking the boat around 9:20 pm hear a large boulder thrown into the water. A manlike creature with red eyes seen as they flashed lights on it.”

Interestingly, the North Jersey legend of Big Red Eye and this creature seems so interwoven. But there is much more happening in Pine Bush

these days, and much of it might be out of this world. The trick with finding the strange stuff out on America’s backroads is to keep an open mind and to be ever vigilant; as you never know how one odd thing will lead to another.

On this day Brian, Shira, and I were simply passing through Pine Bush, on our way up along the Hudson River.

We had stopped at the Cup & Saucer, a diner in Pine Bush that happily embraces the local UFO lore.

So, this is how all this works….

While we were eating, I glanced at some of the artwork that the diner had on the walls. One painting had some cars from the 1950s lined up watching a drive-in movie screen. On that screen was a fighter jet; an F-104 Starfighter. Maybe that would not be interesting for most folks, but I’m not most folks, and this particular jet is known to have had a huge run-in with a UFO. Okay, not any UFO, but the U.S.S Enterprise… NCC -1701.

It was in the Star Trek original series episode called Tomorrow is Yesterday. You might remember the Enterprise is thrown back in time while trying to escape the gravitational pull of a black star and lands in the skies over Omaha in the year 1969. The Air Force scrambles a fighter jet, an F-104 (70914), and Blue Jay 4, piloted by Captain John Christopher (USAF Serial # 4857932), goes after the UFO and begins to gain ground on the Enterprise that is way low in the atmosphere.

Written by D.C. Fontana, a great female sci-fi screenwriter – it is a great Star Trek episode, and the first time they traveled in time on the show and we learned of time paradoxes.

I wondered why a local artist would portray this particular aircraft in this particular diner.

When asked, I was directed to a small museum in town, and here we met Lance Hallowell and Stephanie Smith, who welcomed us to the Pine Bush UFO & Paranormal Museum.

With so much going on in this region, it is fitting that there is now a place that can bring it all in front of you, and the folks at the UFO & Paranormal Museum have done a most excellent job.

Hallowell and company have been working with MUFON (Mutual UFO Network) and this collaboration has allowed for an incredible amount of detail, and MUFON has generously provided the museum gallery with displays, data, and real-time statistics.

There are several excellent displays on various UFOs, strange lights, and other odd phenoniums that have been part of the region’s strange and sometimes down right un-earthly history.

In truth, I am a very open-minded man, and I thought I knew, or at least had

heard, everything that was part of Mysterious America in this part of New York… But I was wrong.

The Pine Bush UFO & Paranormal Museum brought a few cryptids to my attention about which I was absolutely clueless.

The Pine Bush UFO & Paranormal Museum has been running a most excellent seminar series and has had several fascinating researchers, authors, and investigators on a wide variety of paranormal and UFO subjects. One of them being Mason Winfield’s talk on the Puckwudgies… the little people that have secretly inhabited the surrounding mountains and forest.

They have a great gift shop and you might be wary of the last exhibit as my boss Shira got snatched by the aliens and well… you might want to ask her.

All in all, we were very impressed with the museum that brings the mysteries of the area in a great and almost showtime way.

Every year, in the beginning of June, Pine Bush holds a UFO Festival which brings out all the folks who follow this kind of thing. I know I’ll be there in 2024.

Make it a point to visit the museum… as Fox would say…the truth is out there. O’Life Out! ,

presents

BIG CITY GETAWAY

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind

national MuseuM united states air Force

1100 sPAAtz st, dAytoN, oh 4543

937-255-3286 • www NAtioNAlmuseum Af mil

Many times, when we are traveling and we know we are going to make a stop at a museum we’ve said we’ll spend an hour or so… and end up spending the afternoon. Not so with this month’s Big City Getaway, the National Museum United States Air Force located at Wright-Patterson Air Force Base, outside Dayton, Ohio. No, we knew we’d be there all day – and we were.

Here is the Air Force’s national institution for preserving and presenting the Air Force story. Each year about one million visitors come to the museum to learn about the mission, history, and evolving capabilities of America’s Air Force.

We rolled up humming the Air Forces anthem and into the ‘motorcycle only’ parking lot.

We think many Air Force personnel – pilots and ground crews - ride motorcycles and, if you love bikes and aircraft, this is certainly the place to plot your ‘flight plan’. The museum is contained in five separate and monstrous hangars that are all connected by various informative galleries.

Wytheville VA Tourism

Here at the National Museum United States Air Force you will find many rare and one-of-a-kind aircraft and aerospace vehicles and thousands of historical items that chronicle the evolution of military flight from Glenn Curtiss to today’s stealth aircraft. Walking through each hangar you will fly through the history of manned flight and the various eras of military aviation and Air Force history, including the Early Years, World War I, World War II, Korea, Southeast Asia, the Cold War, Flying the President, Research and Development, Global Reach and Space.

Amazing and venerable aircraft from the early years include a rare SPAD XIII, Caproni Ca. 36 bomber, and an MB-2 bomber. The World War II collection includes the B-17 Memphis Belle, B-29 Bockscar that dropped the atomic bomb on Nagasaki, along with a P-51 and Japanese Zero. The F-86 and MiG-15 help represent the Korean War, with the F-4 among Vietnam standouts.

Modern favorites include the B-52, B-1, F-15, F-16, F-117 stealth fighter, the Predator, Reaper, and Global Hawk remotely piloted aircraft, the stunning F-22A Raptor, and the world’s only permanent public exhibit of a B-2 stealth bomber.

The fourth hangar contains their Space Shuttle Exhibit featuring NASA’s first Crew Compartment Trainer that was used to train astronauts on operating the Space Shuttle Orbiter and highlights the long history of the USAF/NASA

partnership. The building also features a world-class collection of experimental and presidential aircraft, including the only remaining XB-70 Valkyrie, and Air Force One, SAM (Special Air Mission) 26000, a Boeing VC137C that served eight presidents, as well as large cargo aircraft such as the C-141C Hanoi Taxi, which airlifted the first American prisoners of war to freedom from Gia Lam Airport in Hanoi, North Vietnam, on Feb. 12, 1973.

When we first arrived a young airwoman told us what was to be found inside and mentioned their large collection of missiles. We thought of smaller missiles, like those used on fighter aircraft. Nope.

Missiles! Big missiles. Like Cold War Nuclear Deterrence, or payback, missiles!

Walking into this gallery reminded me of the end of Beneath the Planet of the Apes! Two Minutemen, Peacemaker, Jupiter (built by Chrysler), and some Titans…

Since 1959, U.S. Air Force strategic nuclear-armed missiles and the Airmen who operate and maintain them have been on constant alert. TheMissile & Space Gallery features USAF missiles that helped maintain peace among Cold War superpowers. They have shaped the world’s strategic balance for more than half a century.

Raised in the ‘60s, this room had our heads spinning.

The collection of Presidential planes was amazing as well, with special note of the spot where the famous image of LBJ taking the Oath of Office after President Kennedy’s assassination was especially poignant.

There were many things to learn, as that the USAF was a key player in saving 13 kids lost in a cave in Thailand in 2018.

It’s all about logistics.

On a more personal note to Backroads was Shira’s discovering a plaque titled “I Wanted Wings.” Here Lt. Emmet Cook drew his Donald Duck-inspired art in the journal of Vince Lisanti, both POWs at Stalag Luft III in Germany.

If the name Lisanti is familiar to regular readers that is because Vince Lisanti is the father of our columnist Tony Lisanti.

To us… one of the more priceless artifacts in the entire museum.

NASA and our space exploration efforts were wonderfully presented and we spent a bit of time learning the ‘hows’ and the ‘whys’ of Global Positioning Systems; something we all use each and every day.

There was even a motorcycle to be seen…a Kawasaki KLR 250 – everyone has a KLR – even the Air Force. In truth they seemed to show everything they have and then some… all except one thing; but, getting the Stargate out of Cheyenne Mountain might take a bit of doing; and we understand it is still being used.

This museum is truly an American treasure and will certainly take you to the wild blue yonder! ,

New Jersey has some amazing riding. Despite the bad rap it is always getting from people not familiar with the Garden State, once you remove yourself from the urban areas (most of Bergen and Hudson counties) you’ll find that the sprawl disappears, the roads open up and can be quite twisty and elevated in many spots. Of course, I’m partial to the more northwest areas in Sussex, Warren and Hunterdon, and this is where you will find this month’s Inside Scoop, along the lovely roads of Sergeantsville/Stockton in Hunterdon county.

Brian and I were heading out on a brunch ride one lovely Sunday, just floating along some of the many quiet and serene backroads, when Brian realized that he was dangerously low on fuel. As we vectored off our route towards the nearest station, we pulled into the QuickChek conveniently located on the intersection of Routes 46 and 519. It seemed to be the meeting spot this morning, with motorcycles of every flavor gassing up or taking a break along their rides. While we were doing the same, a familiar face wandered over, squeegee in hand – seems our friends Lisa and Keene were also out on this beauty of a day, heading to the Lodge at Mountain Lakes for lunch. We stood and chatted, inviting them to join us at Muddy Waters Gastropub in Asbury, NJ. They said they’d meet up with us later.

We continued on and had a superior brunch at Muddy Waters, which serves on the weekends starting at noon. I highly recommend it, with some very unique dishes and a wonderful, easy atmosphere. Lisa and Keene popped in not too long after our food arrived. While we were finishing, we discussed heading for some ice cream, which is never a bad idea. Lisa had told me about The Farmer’s Table and their delicious homemade ice cream some time ago but I had never gotten to it – today seemed to be the day. Following along some of the great roads in Hunterdon county, we came upon the intersection of Rosemont Ringoes Road and Route 523 to find the quaint general store, complete with sitting porch and parking in front. It was the perfect amount of time after our brunch to truly enjoy some ice cream.

Heidi Denbigh nee Kovacs, who grew up loving cows and the dairy life, founded Sugar Maple Jerseys in 2013. After 10 years, her herd has grown from 25 to 75 cows, producing their own milk and cheese as well as meats, skincare and, the reason I was here, ice cream. Heidi’s daughters Madeline and Miranda, help with feeding the animals and other important farm jobs and her husband, Rick, is crop and product manager. In 2019 they moved the farm to their current 180

BACKROADS

acre site to ensure their livestock had the best and happiest environment.

The Farmers Table, their country farm store in Stockton, moved from the farm and sells products directly from Sugar Maple Jerseys Farm as well as other artisanal locals. Their certified kitchen prepares small plate food – no commercially processed stuff here!

Inside, you’ll enter the ice cream shop as well as cabinets full of wholesome milk and meat products, freshly baked goods and other delicious condiments, sauces and tempting items with which to fill your saddlebags. This day’s ice cream offerings were Life’s A Peach, Cookie Monster, Turtle Cheesecake, Mint Chocolate Chip, Lemon Oreo, Orange Creamsicle, Coffee, Vanilla and their two most popular, Brown Cow and Udderly Twisted.

On Keene’s high recommendation, Brian got a waffle cone of Udderly Twisted and Coffee while I chose a waffle cup of Orange Creamsicle and Lemon Oreo. Lisa was so cute with her baby cone of Mint Chocolate Chip – that’s why she is FASTER. All were Udderly delicious and, with a perfect day outside, we opted to enjoy our time together while watching the very minimal traffic passing by at their outdoor table.

Looking at the map of Hunterdon County, you’ll see lots of squiggly lines, little waterways and open farm land, all pointing to some great riding. In addition, there is a ton of history and other attractions to fill a day’s ride or more. Enjoy your time in the country and we’ll see you at our next Inside Scoop. ,

Do you know about IMD? The India Meteorological Department?

No… International Motorcycle Day.

This year the annual June 21st riding day fell on a beautifully sunny Wednesday.

In truth, we were clueless on this day, but had made plans, like we do every first day of Summer, to be on the road … whether it be on a tour, a long day trip, or a quick overnight – to wherever.

This time around we thought a spin up through the middle of the Catskills was in order, especially as it seemed like a long time since we had been through the middle of these ancient mountains.

Being that we are in the northwest corner of New Jersey our vector into the Catskills is an easy and fun ramble. We cruised over Dingman’s Bridge in Pennsylvania and then rode along the backroads and crossed into New York State in Sullivan County on the #3 bridge and then up along Route 55.

As we approached Eldred I spied something very familiar, yet just a little out of place, or maybe not - LFGM.

When a New York Met hits a home run at CitiField they raise the Apple and here, right in front of the Corner Piazza, there sat a huge inflated replica of the revered home run fruit. Well, this should not be that big of a surprise for us, as Lou and Frank are serious Mets fans, and bleed a deeper blue & orange than we do – and we bleed those colors deeply.

The Corner Piazza was our #1 pick for last year’s Best of Backroads and we highly recommend this tiny corner bistro when in the area.

We continued north and entered the real peaks of the Cats along Frost Valley. Now known for its wonderful YMCA Camp, most of this valley once belonged to one man. Julius Forstmann, founder of the Forstmann Woolen Company, broke ground on what would become known as the Forstmann Castle in 1916. For forty years this majestic property on 2,200 acres of the Catskill Mountains would serve as summer home for the Forstmann family.

On Christmas Eve, 1956, Mr. Forstmann and YMCA executives agreed on terms that would allow the YMCA to purchase the property and make it the new home of Camp Wawayanda, which would eventually become the Frost Valley YMCA. The purchase included the main house – 40 rooms, 7 fireplaces, and 6 baths – all fully furnished – as well as a dairy farm with a dozen buildings, 22 Holsteins, 14 heifers, and a bull.

As we rolled through the valley there seemed to be one more creature of which we were not aware… but, as keenly as I looked, I did not see any Rexs… except for the WRX that shot by in the other direction. Yes, I waved at her.

As we rode up a bit, to the right, was Slide Mountain which. at 4,190 feet, is the highest peak in the Catskills and it separates two of the best roads in these ancient peaks… Frost Valley and Peekamoose. But we’ll get to Peekamoose later.

We cut east a bit on Route 28. This road is a wonder as well, as it runs like a giant letter C for 282 miles from the Hudson Valley, up through the Catskills, the Leatherstocking region, and then the Adirondacks before ending near Warrensburg, New York – Oscar’s Smokehouse anyone?

For us this day we ran along for a short few miles and then cut through Phoenicia and up along 214 and the town of Tannersville and our lunch stop –future Great All American Diner Run…

Mama’s Boy Burgers.

It’s hard to miss as it is right at the only light in town.

This is an outdoors Al Fresco sort of place, but why Mr. Fresco never ate indoors is beyond us.

Mama’s Boy served up a great lunch and the Cheese Curds, as questionable as they sound, were superb.

Look for a complete lowdown on this great eatery in these pages. For now – if riding this way you cannot go wrong at Mama’s Boy.

We did have a planned overnight, but it was in Saugerties; right on the falls at the Esopus Creek, where it runs into the Hudson River – but that was just 15 miles away… and it was the longest day of the year, as well as International Motorcycle Day and we could not let all that go to waste, so we went the other way.

The tinier roads that run parallel to some of the tasty main roads in the northern Catskills are a joy to ride and discover and we did plenty of that.

Somewhere along the line, we rode into Prattville.

Prattville was named after the town founder Zadock Pratt, who owned what was the nation’s largest tannery. His life was all about the region, from a tanner to a banker, then finally to the House of Representatives. When he had reached the pinnacle of his career, he commissioned stone workers to immortalize his life’s achievements on a nearby cliff. The result: a series of carvings in stone depicting the highlights of his life; but he also created the famed Pratt’s Rock, what Ripley’s Believe It or Not calls New

York’s Mount Rushmore. That might be a stretch, but we knew of the rock carvings for years.

Our great associate Jeff Bahr had told us umpteen times, “Commander, you and Shira have to hike up the mountain and see these carvings.”

Jeff was generous with the Commander Call sign, but it was that four-letter word ‘hike’ that kept us away. But, not this day. Nope, this day we channeled our inner Jeff Bahr and got hiking up the side of the mountain. The Catskills website says the hike up and back is perfect for beginners. We call bullshit on that and warn you to dress correctly, take your time as the uphill is best done carefully, and coming down should be done with even more diligence.

Okay, Jeff… we did it.

In truth, the carvings are pretty cool and the entire history of Pratt’s Rock is best left to Jeff’s mentor Dr. Seymor O’life… if he ever returns from his ‘Walkabout.’

As we rode through the town proper I could still see pieces and bits of a bad memory of a decade or so ago.

A dozen years ago Hurricane Irene tore through the northeast crushing so many communities, but maybe none as badly as the tiny town of Prattsville. The geography of the Catskill Mountains, the already present streams, and the ungodly rain from Irene all conspired to sweep most of the town away. AWAY!

Eleven houses collapsed in the flood, fifteen were condemned and torn down, and more than 100 homes were so damaged that the residents couldn’t return to them, but, amazingly, there were zero fatalities.

I remember riding through the town a few months later with friends on a Backroads Fall Fiesta; we were all heartsick to see how the once-pretty Catskill town was battered.

We rounded up to the very northern edge of the mountains, coming back down through what is called the Irish Catskills, and then along some roads we hadn’t even planned on as my Basecamp Route and my Zumo XT2 began to argue on what tarmac would be more fun.

We gave up guessing and followed the purple line and had a great time for the rest of the afternoon riding on unridden to us roads and eventually popping out just north of Saugerties, New York, and our home for the night at the Diamond Mills Hotel.

This hotel, built along the Esopus Creek Waterfalls, has been recently reno-

vated and is really a Hudson Valley jewel. The Esopus Creek watershed covers a 192-mile area, the entire 65-mile course of the creek flows “clockwise” in a sweeping arc from the headwaters at Winnisook Lake on Slide Mountain to the Ashokan Reservoir and onto the Hudson River.

Here, at what has been called the Cantine Falls, now called the Diamond Mills Falls, you will find a great room, a most excellent view of the falls, and a happening town awaiting.

The hotel’s restaurant Blackbarn offerings all seemed to entice and the service in both the hotel and restaurant was stellar. If you are looking for something different Saugerties has so much to offer and a walk along Partition Street is in order no matter what.

That night was finished on the porch overlooking the falls and sleep in one of the most comfortable beds we have slept on in a long time.

The next day promised storms by late afternoon, and we knew Sussex County was already getting wet, so when we awoke just after the sun rose we got on the road quickly and followed along Route 212 to Woodstock and then up and over the mountains on Ohayo Mountain Road and then across the Ashokan Reservoir, the major supplier of New York City 110-miles to the south.

Rounding the reservoir on Route 28A we bore left onto Peekamoose and followed along this tight mountain road with its waterfalls that were weak this morn, but would be much stronger after the upcoming weekend’s worth of rain – not always loved, but often needed.

Unlike the previous day, our route this day would be aiming more or less towards the Garden State, albeit on fun and flowing backroads. We pulled in happy, and we got back before the rains that had been promised never seem to show up – but that was okay too.

Hey, it does not have to be the Summer Solstice or International Motorcycle Day to go out for a fine couple of days on the road. Our riding fun is out there… what are you waiting for? ,

~ Brian Rathjen

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS

PROTECTION ITEMSFROM SW-MOTECH

SW-MOTECH CRASH BARSFORTHE GEN 3 KAWASAKI KLR 650

It always seems like a long time between Kawasaki’s changes to its venerable KLR650but that’s okay as most KLR owners know, or think, that the bike is the greatest thing since sliced bread.

We own a KLR and we can tell you that things can happen, and when they do it is best to be on the good side of prepared.

The new KLR650 – now called the Gen 3 – is the latest incarnation- with Kawasaki returning this model to the streets and trails after a four-year hiatus. They did make a good thing better – but gravity cares not about fuel injection or ABS.

So, as we said, best to be prepared before the Gravity Storm – and SW-Motech, a world leader in ADV Rider Accessories, has introduced the SW-Motech Crash Bars for the Gen 3 Kawasaki KLR 650.

These bars are created from extremely durable 27mm steel pipe with a weather- and corrosion-resistant powder coating in black to match the Kawasaki KLR 650. The surface finishing is carried out in a state-of-the-art facility in the SW-MOTECH plant in Brno in the Czech Republic.

Crash bars by SW-MOTECH provide the necessary extra safety for tank, fairing and components. Designed specifically for these types of bikes, these accessories fit seamlessly with the lines of the vehicle and offer optimal cornering clearance. Bike-specific mounting systems enable reliable, easy installation onto original attachment points.

These Crash Bars were created specifically with the Gen 3 KLR 650 in mind and the fit and finish is second to none. These bars also install easily using stock mounting points and are designed to offer an optimized lean angle for those of you who think the KLR makes a great track bike.

The SW-Motech Crash Bars for the Gen 3 Kawasaki KLR 650 sell for $280 and can be found at sw-motech. us.

SW-MOTECH HEADLIGHT GUARDFOR THE HARLEY-DAVIDSON PAN AMERICA

If you have ever caught a good size stone with your headlight and had to ride home in the dark then you know what a hassle and how dangerous it can be.

The H-D-Pan America has a superior lamp, but it is highly venerable to damage - especially on more gnarly roads or a BDR romp.

SW- Motech has a simple and clean fix - the Pan America Headlight Guard. For the tenth of the price of a new light from The Motor Company - your Pan America will have more than enough protection without taking away from the rugged good look of the machine. MSRP $166.95

Back in the day… (yep, we’re all old enough to say that) – 2002 to be exact - we were amazed at the Garmin GPS V, a device that could accurately tell us exactly where we were riding – all in a stunning 2.5 inch 4-gray scales 256 X 160-pixel display for around $400 American.

What would they come up with next?

Today everyone has GPS capability right on their phone, but we still believe that a dedicated GPS is the best way to go – and a real GPS will blow away your phone every time.

One company has long been a leader when it comes to GPS technology for the motorcycle riding community, and Garmin is ever-evolving.

Like a good day’s ride, each mile and development in their products and know-how build on what came before, and building on this ever-expanding tech the new generation zūmoXT2 brings to today’s rider the very best the company has to offer.

The zūmoXT2 offers a sizeable 6” ultrabright display, 15% larger than the previous XT, that gives riders a noticeably bigger and brighter screen than before.

Unlike most cell phones, which will be easily damaged by vibration, the new zūmo XT2 carries an IPX7 water-resistance rating and is equipped to operate with handlebar vibration, unlike most cell phones.

We here at Backroads like to plot our own routes, and if you have read this magazine at any length, you know how we feel about GPS and Apps doing all the navigation for us.

But if you wish, the new zūmoXT2 has taken this to a new level and the unit allows you to shape your route right on the zūmoXT2.

A new to this unit feature is their Moto Paths feature (which can be turned off if you prefer) which shows roads that are already preferred by other riders.

You can find all the important ride details to help improve the journey, including speed, acceleration, deceleration, elevation, and more with the ride summaries feature via the Tread smartphone app. You can also use the Tread app on your smartphone or tablet to visually plan your route.

Garmin Adventurous Routing allows you to find hills, curves, and even local attractions. Even customize the journey based on skill level with four different difficulty options.

If you love your riding buddies oh so much you can keep track of friends on the ride with the Group Ride Mobile feature, which allows riders to track each other on either the Tread app or the Group Ride Radio accessory (sold separately).

If you ride with friends this feature will be worth the price of admission, and you do not need to have a Zumo to be part of the group – just download the Tread app and sign in with the QR code or password given. You can see where they are and they can see where you are with the Tread app.

For example: if you are on, let’s say, a Backroads Rally Route riding with a small cadre of riders. You’re in the back and being held up until the traffic eases. You do not see that the group made a left and then a quick right. The rider in front of you does not wait at the turn and, that being the case, you assume everybody went straight. With this feature, you can see where the rest of the group is… patiently waiting down the road for you to the west, while you steam south.

Just sayin’!

Paired with a smartphone you can get live weather and traffic, as well as messages from your phone. This also allows for a Ride Summary where you can look back on your day’s journey and see it all on your phone: Speed, acceleration, deceleration, and elevation data – which you can review or share with friends. But, why admit to overly spirited riding?

But even with spirited riding the zūmoXT2 will let you know of specific warnings, school zones, animal crossings, and the like. There is also a setting to alert your friends and loved ones if your machine suddenly decelerates and goes sideways (re: crashes). We think this is a stupendous feature – especially if you are a lone wolf rider.

As you would think The XT2 is IPX7 weather-proofed, and carries a Military-spec 810 Drop Rate. Unlike your cell phone, the zūmoXT2 was designed to easily take the vibrations of being mounted on motorcycles

They’re built to take a lickin’ and to keep on tickin’.

It has a built-in li-ion battery promised to last for up to 6 hours, and the new zūmoXT2 has a 32 GB internal storage, which can be expanded to 256 GB by an SD card. GPS, Galileo, and 10 Hz multi-GNSS positioning sensors come standard. The XT2 will come with preloaded maps, and riders can add satellite imagery by download. Software and other updates can be done via Wi-Fi, instead of cable; and like previous Garmin offerings, it comes with Bluetooth allowing you to hear turn-by-turn instructions over your helmet intercom as well as your riding soundtrack with your Smart phone paired with the device.

The maps, especially the topography graphics, are truly superb.

It is amazing when riding through a valley, to see a true depiction of the hills, mountains, and gaps through which you are passing.

For those looking to upgrade from the previous XT, there is this oddity: The XT2 device is backward compatible with the XT1 mount but the XT1 device cannot use the new mount. The new mount provides more power so it can charge the XT2 device with a larger display faster than the old mount and power cable.

Unlike the previous XT, this is a 12-volt unit, so it does not need a small voltage converter as part of the harness (which comes complete with mounting hardware) – this makes for a far cleaner and easier installation.

On the road the zūmoXT2 has some quirks that have come up now and again – and I think as time goes on updates will address some of these.

I ride with the GPS in landscape mode (laying wide than high), but on occasion, usually after riding Bautista-style through a turn the GPS thinks I have turned the unit to a portrait mount – more high than wide. Usually, this straightensitself out (literally) in a few miles.

Also, our older XT and the new XT2 are running identical maps and have the exact same settings yet, many times, the routes will vary with each of them parallel each other by a few miles on roads heading in the same direction.

The odd thing is that more than once the zūmoXT2 has brought us on superior, at least in my mind, routes. Almost like the GPS was saying “Yes, Brian, this is okay… but this road is MUCH better.” Worse… it was right; it did bring us on some better roads.

So, like all mini-computer/calculator/satellite-born GPS devices… sometimes they all have a mind of their own. Damn you, Mrs. Davis.

Our bottom line thought on the new Garmin zūmoXT2 is this…

If you have the zūmoXT, are happy with it, and have figured out all of the little idiosyncrasies it might have – then stay put.

But, if you need to have the latest and most advanced GPS there is, or if you have a GPS unit from a decade ago then look to the zūmoXT2 – we think it will keep you on the best of the backroads for years to come.

The zūmoXT2 sells for $599 - look to garmin.com for more information.

~ Brian Rathjen

Way back in 2008, Honda decided to put its much loved 919 ‘naked’ sportmachine out to pasture.

It then came out with its then new CB1000R…the 919 successor as it was; and this bike was in the line-up till 2017 – when Honda, keeping up with the Jones’ (or Triumphs, KTMs, and such) revamped the machine.

The Honda CB1000R is back in black… all black; and this bike is a wellbehaved beast!

The machine’s in-line four 998cc powerplant, with forged (not cast) pistons, puts forth 143 hp and a solid 66.8 lb-ft torque - a lot of power in a machine that weighs just 467 pounds. This engine was first found in Honda’s CBR1000RR, with which their WSBK machine was powered.

Yes, you can wear your Fireblade tee shirt while riding this machine.

Controlling these ponies are four ‘Rider Modes’ – Standard, Rain, Sport & User (which can be calibrated to your own liking), and the controllable engine-braking is a plus as well.

As you would think the CB1000R comes with ABS and Traction Control and all this is kept in front of you with a 5-inch TFT Instrument screen – that has 60-something dedicated pages in the owner’s manual.

Some like all this… I think … “Yeh, whatever?”

Still, it is easy to read and has everything you really need to know right in front of you.

The 4-2-1 exhaust system closely cradles the engine and almost looks weap-

onish; and above 5 grand it throws out a deep and powerful tone to match the exhilarating acceleration as power builds.

It sounds as muscular as it looks.

The CB1000R is kept on the ground by Showa Suspension front and rear and the braking is handled by four-piston Tokico calipers on 310mm floating discs up front and a single Tokico caliper on a 256mm disc in the rear.

Look-wise the newly-styled Honda CB1000R is almost minimalist in its design. From the stream-like headlight to the new aluminum sub-frame it has a look unique in the class.

The 4.3-gallon seamless tank is different and should be appreciated by Honda devotees, and the solo cowl in place of the pillion gives the bike an almost cage-fighter aura about it.

The CB1000R rides on serious rubber too; Michelin Power 5 tires with a

MotoGP-size 190/55 - ZR17 in the rear; and while we are looking at the back of the bike, the CB1000R Black Edition features a unique, single-sided swingarm. It’s part of the bike’s excellent handling character and seriously is part of the take-no-prisoners flair.

ONTHEROAD…

We spent a few weeks with the CB1000R – spending most of this cavorting around town and the region.

The machine got some looks at Jumboland’s Bike Night (where there was a red twin to the machine), and I really like the sitting position which was a neat cross between the upright puppy-dog feel that some standards and ADV machines have, and a sportier machine that I could not spend many hours on.

The Honda I could ride all day without complaint.

The beast-like engine is helped along by a slipper/assist clutch and it has a three-level adjustable quick shifter. Add in the Honda’s selectable torque

control keeps it all in line.

With the excellent Showa suspension and the very civilized sitting position and feedback through the tubular handlebars, the bike allows for all-day comfort and hours of backroads bombing.

It might be a standard, but it handles in a very sporty way.

Our test machine came with the solo cowl on the rear, so two-up riding was not an option - and that being the case I really can’t speak of pillion comfort; but in truth, I think I’d rather be riding a bike like the Honda CB1000R solo most of the time anyway.

And, that is our takeaway with the Honda CB1000R… it is a beast of a bike on the backroads, yet still can quickly toss on a tux like James Bond and be a civilized bike around town.

For the entry price of $12,999 you have a machine that those in the know will drink in with envy and local LEO might not even notice at all. Yep, the best of both worlds! , ~Brian Rathjen

EARPEACE MOTO/MOTOPROHI-FI-HEARING PROTECTION

Long before I began riding motorcycles, I went to concerts. I went to A LOT of concerts and never did I think about the harm that decibels may be doing to my hearing. What? Block out the booming sounds of the Rolling Stones? Mute the melodies of Steely Dan? Absurd!

Even in the early days of motorcycle riding, I didn’t think about the harm the noise, wind and exposure might do to my hearing. That didn’t last too long, as the first time I stuck a pair of foam earplugs in I realized not only how much quieter the world was but how much more enjoyable the ride was because of that.

Jay Clark began EarPeace in 2008 after attending a massive music festival which left him with diminished hearing. He decided that the offerings for hearing protection were not to his standards and set out to fix that. In 2010 EarPeace launched at SXSW when Jay started his journey to change the way musicians and music lovers took care of their hearing. Over the years this expanded to include motorsports and safety.

Some background noise info: on average, a motorcycle’s engine runs at around 90 decibels up to 35 mph, increasing to 116 decibels at 65mph. In the U.S., this is loud enough to require ear protection in the workplace. In addition to the engine noise, the wind, even with the best and quietest helmet made, can damage your hearing with repeated exposure. Noises this loud can start to cause damage in as little as fifteen minutes and constant exposure can lead to acute hearing loss and the onset of tinnitus (believe me, this is NOT something you want).

One of the obstacles hearing protection companies

deal with the most is the refusal of users to, well, use their products. Look, when you ride your motorcycle, 99 percent of you wear proper riding gear – helmet, gloves, boots, some sort of protective riding apparel – so why wouldn’t you take the extra 20 seconds to insert hearing protection. Drug store foam ear plugs are okay but they block out too much noise - you still need to hear traffic and emergency vehicles.

That is why EarPeace is different, in a very good way. According to their EarPeace filter technology allows a small, precise amount of unobstructed sound in so you maintain situational awareness.’ The PRO filter technology simply dampens the amount of sound making it to your ear canal, giving you a safer volume.

There are two options for EarPeace Moto – Original and PRO. Besides the $10 difference in price, here’s what you’ll get. In the Original box are two sets of earplugs: short, dual-flanged pieces constructed of silicone, which are soft and easily conform to different sized ear canal shapes – in standard and small sizes, three sets of noise filters in Medium (17dB), High (20dB) and Max (26dB) protection and a very nicely machined aluminum carrying case with dual storage and a clip. The MotoPRO contains 2 sets of PRO Contour Earplugs in standard and large sizes, a set of PRO filters (either High/20dB or Max/24dB) and the neat carrying case. The Contour plugs have an offset wave shape that expands optimally in the ear, creating a complete seal with the least amount of pressure to the canal.

Easily inserted, with a short tab that extends from the plug that is your grip for removal. Just align the pull tab with the notch above or below the tragus – the flap of your external ear that covers the ear canal. Be sure not to insert too deeply

or lose the pull tab lest you need an implement of extraction.

If you like to listen to tunes while riding, the PRO plugs will most likely be your choice, as the Ultra-Fi filters feature a tuned acoustic membrane, bringing you true-to-life audio with a crispness to both music and other audio such as phone or intercom.

I used my EarPeace PRO recently at a Leonid and Friends concert to see if the music would still be as vibrant without being dulled. I was really pleased to hear the crispness of the musicians’ notes without any distortion that the sound system may add. Not to mention it drowned out any lower talking that was taking place around me.

The silicone plugs are super comfortable for long rides and should be cleaned after each use – simply wipe with a damp, clean cloth and store in the convenient aluminum case.

There is much more useful information regarding hearing loss and why you should be pro-active regarding it on their website: earpeace.com

The Original EarPeace Moto sell for $29.95 and the MotoPRO for $39.95. , ~ Shira Kamil

REALTREE 4-IN-1 PARACORD BRACELET

While strolling the aisle of vendors at the BMW MOA National Rally, held this year in Virginia, we came across a young woman demonstrating and selling fire starter products from RealTree Edge. This isn’t your typical bracelet. The Realtree 4-in-1 Paracord Bracelet has a built-in high-quality flint magnesium striker, emergency knife, compass, and an emergency whistle that creates noise levels of up to 100db. The Inner Core 10-foot paracord can be used in thousands of ways such as a fishing line, emergency belt, rope ladder, bow drill and so much more.

You probably never thought of how you would start a fire, but the point is that if you ever do have to be Prometheus it is best to be prepared and for around $20 you will have a fairly tough and stylish bracelet that just might save your bacon, or at least allow you to cook it.

You can find this and other bracelets that do more than wrap around your wrist through Google Realtree 4-in-1 Paracord Bracelet. You find them from several sources for around $20.

BUGSLIDE WATERLESS DETAILER

Hey, they’re already dead…now you just gotta get rid of the bodies!

Ain’t nothin’ tougher than the bugs of the northeast. Spring and Summer will find your bike and helmet shield coated with hundreds of crushed insect carcasses.

Left too long they become the consistency of cement used for the Meadowlands… kabeesh?

What you need is a fixer. Something that will, let’s say, ease the problem of getting rid of the bodies. We have the answer. BugSlide.

BugSlide is a complete waterless detailer that cleans, shines, and degreases while removing bugs and other surface contaminants with ease. BugSlide leaves a protective, microscopic finish that continuously repels dust, dirt, water, and fingerprints on motorcycles, ATVs, farming equipment, cars (inside and out), boats, computers, laptops, cell phones, GPS screens, musical instruments, and much more. Never wax again! The release agent in BugSlide makes clean-up quick and

BACKROADS

easy. BugSlide contains a UV filter for added protection and dries crystal clear with no yellowing, no build-up, and no powdery residue.

BugSlide is body shop safe and contains no wax, petroleum, silicone, Teflon, or ammonia. BugSlide is free of abrasives and is safe on all non-porous surfaces including paint, chrome, glass, fiberglass, acrylic, aluminum, plastic, vinyl, leather, Plexiglas, and Lexan.

We have been using Bugslide for a few months now and nothing beats it. It easily liquefies the multitude of bug and insect carcasses spattered on the windscreen and the wipe-down was effortless.

To take my little test a bit further… after I was chastised for dripping some jelly on a glass coffee table and that it had been missed for a few days and was the consistency of cement, I sprayed some Bugslide on it and counted to ten. It came right off…eating through the hard dried jelly - like it did the most difficult bugs.

You can find BugSlide at an ever-increasing number of dealerships, shops, and truck stops, or check out their website at bugslide.com

And hey… don’t forget the cannolis.

BUELL UNVEILS 40TH-ANNIVERSARY FREEDOM EDITION HAMMERHEAD

Buell Motorcycles, proud manufacturer of the only American-built sport bike lineup, announces the launch of a 40th-anniversary Freedom Edition Hammerhead 1190. With a striking paint scheme featuring red, white, and blue stars and stripes, it celebrates 40 years of Buell Motorcycles and the lifeblood of American freedom.

“We’re thrilled to introduce the new Freedom paint scheme. Applied directly to the Hammerhead’s standard full carbon fiber bodywork, its design commemorates 40 years of Buell’s exciting journey and our enthusiasm for the next 40,” said Bill Melvin, CEO of Buell. “To us, the Freedom Edition represents our unwavering commitment to our heritage, our fans, and the freedom that comes with riding a Buell.”

The Buell Hammerhead 1190 boasts 185 horsepower, weighs 419 lbs., and delivers 102 foot-lbs. of torque. The first 40 Freedom Edition bikes will also feature a special four-year warranty and the underside of the bodywork will be autographed by the Buell factory family - Team Buell.

The machine went on sale at a special edition priced at $24,990.

Top-tier models are available at $26,775 for those seeking enhanced features and customization. The Freedom Edition can be purchased directly through the Buell website or from an authorized Premium and Display Service Center, promising a seamless, personalized buying experience.

“Our fans have been requesting a red, white, and blue color scheme for a long, long time. We listened. And we’re proud to deliver a design that truly reflects the fiercely independent spirit Buell shares with this great country.” Learn more at www.buellmotorcycle.com.

BIRTHDAY BMW MOTORRAD AMERICA’S TRANSPORTATION MUSEUM HIGHLIGHTS 100 YEARSOF BMW MOTORCYCLES

Centenarians deserve respect. Not just for the length of their life, but for the changes they’ve experienced and their adaptation to those changes, for the lessons they’ve learned and how they can pass on that knowledge.

This year BMW Motorrad (BMW’s motorcycle division) celebrates its centennial anniversary, and a new exhibit at America’s Transportation Museum (AACA Museum) in Hershey, Pennsylvania, highlights some stellar machines and other items from the German motorcycle company’s one hundred years of history.

From when chief designer Max Friz showcased the first BMW motorcycle—the venerable R 32-- in 1923 at the German Motor Show, to the category-originating and defining R1200G/S adventure bike of the last four decades, BMW Motorrad experienced challenges and changes, adapted, and evolved along its one-hundred-year way.

In 1923 Friz introduced BMW’s now iconic opposed two-cylinder, fourstroke engine known as the “boxer” in that R 32 motorcycle, which also featured a three-speed gearbox and a shaft drive. The German manufacturer would adhere to the basic principles found on that machine and that engine for its next one-hundred years of production.

these and the original R 32 abound. They sport similar profiles, frame shapes, gas tanks, and that boxer engine-- though the later motorcycles featured improved suspension, horsepower ranging from the mid-20s to the low 40s, and colors other than black. Their clean, elegant lines illustrate the family resemblance.

A 1974 R75/6 represents the go-go decade of the 70s, and the display has two 80s-era machines that showcase BMW’s successful divergence that decade—a 1980 R100 and a 1981 R80G/S. The G/S represented the first production version of a BMW Enduro motorcycle and had the first Monolever for controlling the rear wheel. BMW manufactured this model from 1980 through 1987, marking the beginning of the dual-sport’s on-and-off-road dynasty. BMW also became the world’s first motorcycle manufacturer to offer ABS that decade.

A rare 1992 BMW R100R in a limited edition “purple haze” paint scheme with a silver frame caps off the more modern era of the exhibition. BMW only exported 150 of these to the United States.

One cannot mention BMW Motorrad’s history without including the much beloved, cutesy, and efficient three-wheeled vehicle it produced…the Isetta. A 1958 model graces the museum’s exhibition. Though the Italian-designed

In 1929, BMW rider Ernst Henne set a world speed record of 134 miles per hour on an R 32 that boasted 16 horsepower at 4,000 rpm and was the first serial production motorcycle to use overhead valve cylinder heads cast from lightweight aluminum. Throughout the next century, whether for pleasure riding or racing, BMW Motorrad continually pushed the motorcycling envelope to develop new, improved technology for the bikes it produced.

The museum’s exhibit focuses primarily on motorcycles from the 1960s through the 1990s. A 1964 R50 reigns as the oldest two-wheeler on display, followed by a 1965 BMW R60 and a 1967 F60. The resemblance between

microcar doesn’t look like a motorcycle, it uses a 12-horsepower, single-cylinder, 247cc motorcycle engine for propulsion, thus landing it in the “motorcycle” category of vehicles.

While the motorcycles illustrate the evolution of BMW Motorrad, museum visitors can also gain a sense of history through the accompanying advertising materials, toys, and various doo-dads housed in display cases that show a more fun and humorous side to the German manufacturer.

The museum’s Stillwater Motorcycle Gallery on the lower floor houses the BMW Centennial Display, scheduled to run through October 21, 2023. For more information on this exhibit and others at America’s Transportation Museum, visit its website at www.AACAMuseum.org ~ Pamela Collins

HAPPY

meant as a shakedown ride for a longer trip that we were considering. The main thing we needed to know was whether we could stand each other on the bike for 3 weeks. Especially since the 800 GS was not exactly built to handle 2 people who each reside somewhere north of 200 lbs.

For some unknown reason I decided that I wanted to ride to Nova Scotia and ride the Cabot Trail on Cape Breton Island. The Cabot Trail is a 186 mile loop that works its way around the highlands of the Island. I will take this opportunity to reveal that it was not until this trip that I realized that Nova Scotia actually meant New Scotland and the province was settled by Scots. I also just recently became aware that the earth is in fact round. Who knew?!

Reconnecting with the Keystone State

What is the first thing you want to do when you get an Adventure motorcycle? Well…duh…go on an adventure!! Up until I bought my first ADV bike, a BMW 800GS, I mainly rode dual sport. Especially riding single track and two-track in Michigan. Some of you may be familiar with the organization, GLDS (Great Lakes Dual Sporters). Great group of people who put on several weekend dual sport rides in the lower and upper peninsulas.

But when I got the GS taking a long trip immediately came to mind as the next step. Particularly doing a point to point ride. With some exotic destination in mind. Not sure if this qualifies as exotic, but the first trip was a weekend ride with my wife, Elise, to Madison and Baraboo, WI. It was actually

Our plans were thrown a monkey wrench right off the bat when our scheduled departure date had to be adjusted because a very good friend of Elise had invited us to her son’s wedding in Chicago. I explained to her that we were slated to meet my brother at Americade at Lake George, NY and did not have a lot of slack. But if she wanted to make the wedding, we would have to slog some serious blacktop the first couple days of the trip. So we left our home in Chicago’s Western Suburbs and rode the loaded GS into Chicago’s where the wedding was. It was an early ceremony and we figured we would be out by noon. Apparently, pre-wedding alcohol consumption by the groom is required at Jewish weddings, or at least at this one.

As a result, our departure was delayed. We battled traffic on the Kennedy Expressway in the mid afternoon heat but were rewarded by the shadow of Elise and I on the concrete lane divider as we made our way south. The first time I saw she and I two up on the bike. We were now ADVENTURERS. We looked the part. We made it to Eastern Ohio and grabbed a needed night’s rest before continuing into Pennsylvania the next day.

It was in the western part of PA that we first experienced twisty mountain roads. PA Route 666, the Devil’s Highway, is a little known gem that stretches 34 miles from East Hickory, at Route 62, to Sheffield, PA, at Route 6. It winds through remote sections of the Allegheny National Forest before ending at the junction with Route 6, the Grand Army of the Republic Highway. The road is named to commemorate Civil War veterans and stretches from Bishop, CA to Provincetown, Mass. This day we would let Route 6 carry us across western and central Pennsylvania to the town of Canton. Why Canton? When Elise and I graduated veterinary school, our first jobs were here in the Endless Mountains of Tioga and Bradford counties. We had made great friends in the 4 years that we lived there. So much so, that we bought a second home there in 2022. But this day our goal was to make it to crash the Monday night get together hosted by the Grand Paraders Square Dancing Club. We belonged to, and danced with, the Grand Paraders back in the late 80s when we lived there and were anxious to reconnect with old friends…oh, and make fools of ourselves as we tried to capture old dance moves.

After a couple days of reliving our early days in veterinary practice, we

packed up and headed Northeast to Lake George. We had our first tip over on the way. Pulling into the parking lot of a deserted restaurant, I had no time to waste in finding an out-of-the way place to umm, lighten my load. I was in such a hurry that I failed to stabilize the bike adequately and she started leaning to the starboard side. I yelled to Elise that we were going down. Something we had been dreading since we started riding together. To say it was anti-climatic is an understatement. The bike rested on the right pannier and Elise was able to just step off. We could not stop laughing. A car stopped to see if we were OK and left shaking his head as we continued chuckling… mostly relieved that we got the fall out of the way. Elise actually thought it might be best to exit the bike in this manner for the rest of the trip.

New England Calls

My brother, Paul, was at Americade with some members of his New Jersey Harley-Davidson club and we got to spend a couple great days seeing motorcycles, walking exhibits, eating, taking an ADV off road class and spending time with my brother. We left Lake George and New York State and rode across some beautiful country roads in Southern Vermont. Our destination, however, was the home of a good friend from veterinary school. George lived in Southern New Hampshire and we had not seen him since graduation from vet school in 1984. George was proof that you could work hard in school and yet have a good time. He revealed his brand new Harley, begging us not to post pictures of the bike since his parents did not know he bought it

We complied with his request.

We bid George goodbye reluctantly and headed towards Maine. From this point on, we had no plans. No lodging reservations or people to visit. This strategy left us open to adjust our trip on the fly with no stress to be somewhere on a certain day. As we approached Acadia National Park near Bar Harbor, we thought it might be a good idea, since it was late afternoon, to find a place to stay for the night. We found a McDonald’s with WiFi and explored the area. What we found was a delightful B+B called

the Crocker House Country Inn in Hancock, Maine (www.crockerhouse.com). It gave us a great base to explore Acadia but, more importantly, to find… Lobster!! Really, the only reason I wanted to ride through Maine was to find those cheap lobster dinners I had heard about. Like a Florida Senior Buffet, Lobster dinners at a reasonable price are a Pine Tree State legend. And we succeeded. We found a great spot and “chowed” down on lobster, clams, corn, hush puppies and, yes, Chowder.

on a motorcycle, at night. Unless you wanted to become Bullwinkle Bait.

So we scrambled and found a motel about 2 hours away in Oxford, Nova Scotia. We were told to just walk into the room. Keys are on the nightstand since the restaurant and, therefore, the motel office, would be closed by the time we got there. We arrived at twilight with the sun, and the temperatures, going down. No moose encounters of the third kind, thankfully.

At this point, it should be noted that it was I that planned this trip. Not in conjunction with Elise. And as has been, and still is, my tendency I plan more miles than I have time to cover. My plan after leaving Cape Breton was to work our way across New Brunswick, over the St. Lawrence River by ferry, follow the northern shore in Quebec, explore Montreal, cross past Sudbury, Ontario, ride around on Manitoulin Island, enter back into the states at Sault Ste Marie, west across Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, south through Wisconsin and back into Chicago…in 10 days. Yeah…it wasn’t going to happen. Negotiations with Elise to come up with a less stressful route began in earnest.

The Call of Cape Breton

After deciding that we needed to alter our plans for the remainder of the trip, the hard part was figuring out, in the words of Bob Seger, what to leave in and what to leave out. The Cabot Trail on Cape Breton Island was non-negotiable. We had ridden to within only 150 miles of the island and there was no way I

We left Hancock with full bellies and warm memories of the Inn, food and some wonderful people. We then headed north along the Atlantic Coast and up past the Bay of Fundy. The body of water with the greatest disparity in water levels between high and low tides than anywhere else in the world. It was late afternoon and our plan was to make it all the way to Cape Breton that day. What we did not know is that the Continental United States actually has 5 time zones, not 4 as we had always thought. And we were standing in the most eastern of the five, the Atlantic Time Zone. This meant, as some MaineLanders informed us, we were actually one hour later in the day than we had considered. Which also meant that the time of day that some call MooseCrashing time was fast approaching. We were told to never be out on the road,

was turning around without reaching that goal. So we looked at the back end of the trip. The new plan was to head southwest across Ontario after riding through Montreal. We had previously stayed at a wonderful B+B in Stratford, Ontario and had become friends with its owner. Elise loved the town and it became a compromise with which we could both live.

We left the Parkview Motel after a wonderful breakfast, covering the remaining distance to the Cove Motel (www.thecovemotel.ca) located on the mainland just before crossing the bridge onto the Cape. The further we rode east towards the Cove, the worse the weather got. Rain and cold intensified as I struggled to see past the fogged over face shield, only broken up by the rivers of rain cascading down, obliterating my vision of the road. By the time we got to the hotel we were exhausted, in dire need of sleep and a hot meal. While we felt a sense of victory reaching this point, our main goal was to get our wringing wet clothes into the nearest dryer and grab some dinner. Both missions accomplished, we headed to bed and hoped for better weather in the morning.

We woke to the familiar sound of rain beating against the windows. Nova Scotia was clearly reminiscing its roots in the United Kingdom where drenching rain is apparently only punctuated by persistent drizzle. We had to press on. We could not turn back now after coming over 2,000 miles. We donned our not too effective rain gear, crossed over the bridge to Port Hastings then made our way to that well known Scottish eatery…McDonald’s…for breakfast. While tempted to sample the McLobster Sandwich, we instead settled for the time honored favorite, the Egg McMuffin.

The ghosts of Scottish Kings must have been looking down on us because as we emerged from the restaurant we saw an old friend waiting for us. The Sun!! This might turn out OK after all! We quickly made our way up the left coast of the Island, bordering along Ballantynes Cove and Northumberland Strait. Part way up the coast on Route 19 we came across a Celtic Music Interpretive Center. As I had mentioned earlier, Elise and I LOVE square dancing. Not only is it a challenge but it is a throwback to a somewhat forgotten era. And the Celtic Center looked to satisfy our curiosities in terms of exploring a little of the Celtic culture. By the time we were finished perusing the collections, we were slightly more versed in Celtic song and dance. I even got to do some clogging.

We continued north up the coast, taking some time to explore the Latourbiere Bog, a network of boardwalk trails among the magnificent water plants and amphibious life of the region. We entered the Cape Breton Highlands National Park as we rounded our way across the top of the island. We were then greeted by… you guessed it…RAIN! What made the rain somewhat bearable, however, was the landscape by which we were now greeted. The eastern coast of the island was way more rocky, with steep cliff walls meeting the angry surf below. Elise and I are big fans of the 1960s haunted soap opera, Dark Shadows. The opening sequence of each episode shows waves crashing on the imposing coast that is billed as the coast of Maine. But it appears very much like the shores we were currently riding along. Wild and foreboding.

As we continued further south the coast gave way to tidal waters and fishing boats. We crossed the Little Narrows via what seemed like a 200 foot ferry ride. While the route was not the quickest way back to the mainland, it was well worth the detour as we enjoyed the views riding along the north shore and then the south shore of Bras d’Or Lake. The return to Port Hewkesbury, and completion of the Cabot Trail Loop, ended our stay on Cape Breton Island.

The Return Home

Leaving Cape Breton Island left us with some mixed emotions. We had wished we allowed ourselves more time to explore the island and get to know the people and Celtic customs better. But the weather continued to deteriorate as we made our way off Cape Breton across the Canso Causeway back onto the mainland of Nova Scotia. We were happy to leave rain, fog and cold behind, thinking things would improve as we made our way west across the peninsula, headed for New Brunswick. But the only change we encountered was the addition of hail to the mix of precipitation. We again battled visibility issues and hypothermia.

The rain and cold forced us to search for lodgings a few hours earlier that we had originally planned. After some online searching we found the Governor’s Mansion Inn in Miramichi, New Brunswick (governorsmansion.ca). We knew we found the right place when the owner greeted us with the offer to toss our soggy gear into his commercial sized dryer and a much needed bite to eat. Food and warmth was just the ticket we needed. The spot was just beautiful with the Inn sitting on the banks of the Miramichi rivers and overlooking historic Beaubears Island, the site of an encampment of refugee Acadians (inhabitants of an isolated French colony in what is now New Brunswick and Maine. The Acadians sheltered on the island to escape expulsion at the hands of the British, as retaliation for fighting alongside the French during the Seven Years War).

The following day (a RAINLESS ONE!!) we continued west through New Brunswick. An unexpected treat was Grand Falls on the St. John River. The Falls are some of the most impressive in North America, much like Montmorency and Niagara. The day ended as we arrived at the St. Lawrence River port town of Trois Pistoles. The town was named for a lost golden goblet valued at the cost of three gold…you guessed it…pistols. We found a quaint French Bed and Breakfast Inn called Gite La Marabella (Marabella Cottage - www.lamarbella.ca).

After a great night’s sleep, we boarded the ferry to cross the St. Lawrence from Trois Pistoles to the town of Les Escoumins. There is just something magical about ferry travel on a motorcycle. I am not sure if it is the uniqueness of being on two wheels alongside all the cars or simply that, most of the time, you are the first ones on and the first ones off the ship. Leaving the port we headed southwest on Route 138 boarding another ferry to cross the Riviere Saguenay, an estuary of the St. Lawrence, and continued following the big river with its stunning overlooks, into Quebec City.

Quebec is a gorgeous city that marries old world charm in the Old City with modern conveniences of the “new” part of town. Old Town is characterized by Upper and Lower Portions with numerous shops and restaurants. The two highlights for me were the Citadelle, a working fort with encampments perched on the bluffs overlooking the St. Lawrence, and my introduction to Poutine, traditionally, French Fries covered in brown gravy. But Quebec takes the delicacy one step further in creating varied taste sensations. My personal favorite was the moderately spiced Buffalo Chicken variety.

NOT heart healthy to say the least.

The following day we made it to Montreal. As we were getting to near the end of our trip, our budget was getting to be a bit squeezed so we shopped for an inexpensive AirBnB in the city. We found, what we thought was, the perfect option. A presumed vacated dorm room on the campus of McGill University. To our surprise, we shared the accommoda-

tions with 7 other college students. Resisting the urge to play beer pong, we took the opportunity to catch up on email and social media. The next day we explored Old Port Montreal by paddle boat. Looking up I noticed someone streaking high above the harbor on a suspended wire. Zip Lining!! I had seen, but never experienced, this sport before and I was determined to give it a go…but I was especially determined to get Elise up on a wire.

Now you have to know that Elise is very reluctant to try anything new or remotely dangerous. That is, unless she sees me doing it. On our honeymoon I had decided to parasail in spite of a week of Elise’s objections. You can imagine my surprise as I floated back to the beach in Cancun to see someone familiar suiting up to take the next flight. Yep. My new bride. So, suffice it to say, once she saw me step off the zip lining platform, she was right behind me ending in an abrupt stop at the finish.

We ended our time in Montreal by touring St. Joseph’s Oratory of Mount Royal (a Catholic Shrine dedicated to St. Joseph) and catching up with a veterinary friend and her family. We continued southwest around Toronto (but not escaping the infamous Toronto traffic) arriving at the Shakespeare Festival in the town of Stratford, Ontario. The town features several theaters with various plays, many of Willy Shake’s best. But the main reason for us to re-visit the town of Stratford was our hunt for Pavlova! For those of you not familiar with Pavlova, it is a glorious concoction of whipped egg whites, whipped cream and fresh fruit (just to make it SEEM like it is healthy). The dessert is a native of Australia and New Zealand, named after the Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova to celebrate her visit to both countries. If you are anywhere near Stratford, make a point to venture to The Parlour Inn to sample this devilish creation.

We crossed back into the States at Sarnia, MI and made our way around the southern tip of Lake Michigan, returning to where we started 4,000 miles and 21 days earlier - Carol Stream, Illinois and home. I have done many Adventure Motorcycle rides since this trip, mostly off road. But this journey is cemented in my memory as featuring several ‘Firsts’ - first extended trip, first point to point trip, first trip navigating by GPS. But most of all, it was the first trip shared with my wonderful bride, Elise. There is no love that is better expressed than by her willingness to ride behind ME and to endure thousands of miles on a STOCK BMW SEAT. All she asked of me was a break every 1 hour and 12 minutes.

I have never questioned her love since. ,

John Ciribassi is the owner and operator of Emmaus MotoTours, an off highway focused motorcycle tour company offering trips in the Midwest, the East coast and on Western Backcountry Discovery Routes. You can contact him at emmausmoto@gmail.com and visit his site at emmausmototours.com

The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully

A column dedicated to your riding survival

suspend BelieF

When we look at modern motorcycles, compared to the machines of yesteryear, or even a decade or so back – there is so much more in play regarding technology.

Traction Control, Anti-Lock Braking, and Variable Power Modes all work together in a great waltz of computers, sensors, and algorithms allowing for even the moderately talented rider to do so much more on the bikes safely. Tires, too, have made massive leaps forward as far as traction and longevity. The tires that most machines roll on today would have been very welcome at the track a quarter of a century ago.

Although most modern machines, especially higher-end ones, carry ABS, Traction Control, and Power Modes, on some models manufacturers cut corners in an effort to keep consumer pricing to a manageable region. Many times tires are in the middle of the road, off-the-shelf product, and suspension, while usually adjustable to some degree, is certainly not as state-of-the-art as they could or should be.

The great thing is both of these can be swapped out or upgraded to better equipment.

When motorcycles first began to grow in popularity there was little, if any, real suspension. Sprung seats might have helped the rider’s tush –but did nothing to help the bike. Over the last century suspension developed and then became more and more innovative.

Where most automobile drivers might think of suspension as that thing that gives them a super smooth driving experience, and that the car’s suspension is there solely to make the driver think he is anywhere than on the road – I like to think that suspension, motorcycle or car, is there for one thing… keeping my wheels in contact with the pavement.

Riding comfort does come into play – but that is not what I am primarily thinking when I look at proper suspension.

On some machines these days you have electronically controlled suspension. My BMW R1250 GS has Comfort, Road, and Dynamic; other brands have different names for different suspension settings; all named according to their legal teams.

Many machines also come with Cartridge-Style Front Forks which do a far better job with damping and rebound. With these forks, the fork legs carry a small cylinder inside the lower section which is, basically, an open-chamber shock absorber. A piston slides through this cartridge, which is submerged in the fork oil. Depending on how you adjust it, or dial it in, the fork gives a different response to road surface.

Okay… it’s magic. Let’s stick with that.

When you start to wrap your mind around it, suspension work and set-up is almost a mystical art that seems to best be left to magicians and sorcerers, and sometimes you have to suspend belief and trust that it all works as promised.

But my point is that with all the improvements that have been made to motorcycles over the decades – tires, electronics, engine design, and chassis, body and luggage design… I think that suspension might be the single most important part of your machine.

You need to feel the road, you need to have your tires fully engaging with the pavement to get the most out of your machine, whether on the track or the backroads.

Suspension is there to keep it all on the ground – comfort is secondary in my mind.

My Kawasaki Z900RS came with suspension that did the job adequately for a bit, but with more familiarity and a couple of very telling track days, it was apparent to me that the stock suspension was designed for far lighter men than me, and even with it all cranked up it wallowed when pushed.

Thus a trip in mid-May to our friends at EPM Performance in Manalapan, New Jersey.

Klaus and crew have been putting together, installing, and tweaking motorcycle suspensions for a long time and they took apart the cartridge forks, installed new, more progressive Hyper-Pro springs and far superior quality fork oil, and replacing the old and tired stock shock with a new purplespringed Hyper-Pro Type 466 rear shock.

Installation done, it was time for a little dialing in using a digital slacker tool that measures sag. Looking for more precision Mike and Frank (The Crew at EPM) removed the shock and made some adjustments. A short time later I was back on the road but not on the same machine I came down with. Nope – this Z was a far more precise machine, and later along the far twistier roads of western New Jersey the Kawasaki truly had a feel to it that I felt it should have had since I bought it.

All it took was some time and investment to suspend my belief! ,