December 2010

2010

Vol. 16 No. 12

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DECEMBER

Holiday Gift Ideas Motorcycling by the Numbers Aprilia 750 Shiver

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Riding Adven t

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Motorcycle TourMagazine

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W H A T ’ S

I N S I D E F E AT U R E S

M O N T H LY C O L U M N S FREE WHEELIN’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

SHORT AND SWEET - DUAL SPORTING IN VERMONT . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

WHATCHATHINKIN’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

BACKROADS’ HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 MOTORCYCLING BY THE NUMBERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 ON THE MARK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8 BACKLASH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

RAINMEN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

OVER THE PORTILLIO PASS, ARGENTINA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50

INDUSTRY INFOBITES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 BIG CITY GETAWAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 WE’RE OUTTA HERE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

M OTO R CYC L E R E V I E W S 2011 APRILIA SHIVER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

PRODUCT REVIEWS HOLIDAY GIFT IDEAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 SW MOTO-TECH TRAX CASES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55

UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil ~ Publishers Contributors Mark Byers, Jeffrey Harth, Bill Heald, Michael Hoffmann, Tim Wineland, Tyler W. Yandow, Dr. Seymour O’Life

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

BACKROADS • POB 317, Branchville NJ 07826 Phone 973.948.4176 • Fax 973.948.0823 • email editor@backroadsusa.com • web www.backroadsusa.com For Advertising Sales Information: 973-948-4176

BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2010. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher.

BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage.

The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet.

Ride within your limits, not over them.

DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 4

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN

Who are you? Who, Who? A few months ago we had a posting on Backroads’ Facebook page. It was a neat contest held at the National BMW Rally called the Anti-Concourse. Unlike true Concourse where the bikes must be pristine and perfectly original this one was held for owners of BMW GSs and the opposite held true. The more beat up, dirty and abused the better; as long as it was all functional and well done.

The short video showed just how many “farkelized” machines are out there. By the way a Farkle, for those who don’t know, is an accessory or product that adds to the perceived comfort of a motorcycle IE: GPS, Radar, etc.

Almost immediately after the posting came a message that most GS owners were posers.

Posers? Well, not everybody has the wherewithal, talent and time as a Frasier or Pederson or Smith; but that doesn’t mean their posers.

That got me thinking on something I have always talked about - the differences between so many of we riders. I prefer the term “rider,” it works for me. Others prefer “biker,” that works for them.

If I can be so bold other than the commonality of loving motorcycles there are some obvious differences in many riders or bikers. Gear for one. Many

motorcyclists choose to wear the best riding gear out there. ATGATT - All The Gear All The Time.

These “riders” tend to take their motorcycling very seriously and they tend to have a different approach to their riding than let’s say the couple with the small V-Twin Japanese cruiser, chaps and half helmets that get out every couple of Sundays, if the weather is good. It’s not that the couple doesn’t enjoy their riding, it’s just that it might not be as important an aspect of their lives as riding is to others.

I was at an event where some more hard-core adventure riders were making derogatory comments on motorcyclists such as these. I couldn’t understand why.

Just because they don’t ride the same machine or prefer an easier going “every couple of Sunday” rides, then that doesn’t make them posers.

It’s just what they are into. Sometimes that changes over time.

I had a friend that, over a decade, went from chaps and cruiser to full leathers, Ducatis and track days; and I dare say he is a far faster rider than I these days. He doesn’t race, just track days. Maybe some hard-core racers might call him a poser, while the couple on the small Japanese V-Twin might think he was very serious about his riding.

You see it’s all perception.

What about the occasional groups that show up with colors and attitudes?

I would think that they perceive the group of Harley riders that ride on a constant basis less “biker” than them and maybe the former thinks that couple on the small Japanese V-Twin should buy a Harley and then maybe they would be real “bikers.”

(Continued on Page 10)

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

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DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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W H ATC H AT H I N K I N ’ SHIRA KAMIL

What’s your problem So you say that the weather is turning a bit nippy and the days are getting shorter. You have to pull out your heated gear to make your infrequent rides more pleasant. You hate that ‘bundled-up’ feeling and, truth be told, it’s just not as enjoyable to ride in the winter.

All I can say is stop your complaining. You are perfectly healthy, aside from the slight frostbite in the fingers, have some beatiful days for riding ahead of you, your motorcycle is purring beneath your butt and your breathing some magnificent fresh air while you’re doing this. You can head wherever you’d like, stop anywhere you want when the feeling hits you and, aside from the day-to-day constraints of work and family, you are a free bird.

Consider this: You once had all this at your disposal, but due to circumstances beyond your control, you are now tethered to the treatments you must get every two to three days, there is no cure for your ailment, and the vitality and verve for life you once felt when you were out riding now just brings fatigue. On the good days, when the energy level is slightly higher, you think that you’d like to do some traveling, maybe see some sights beyond your local borders, but the treatment may not be available when you need it, and there is no ‘maybe tomorrow’ when it comes to this.

This is the situation faced by people suffering from kidney disease. I was fortunate enough to have attended the High Seas Rally, which raises money for the HOHS Dialysis Fund, this past November and learned of the strength and determination that these folks possess. Once able to throw their leg over their bike and head out to points unknown, they now need to plan every day

to make sure that they will make it to the next treatment. Dean and Debbie Anderson, the founders of the High Seas Rally and HOHS Dialysis Fund, have been raising money for the past eight years and, to date, have put together over a quarter of a million dollars. This year, they were able to bring 18 dialysis patients on board for a cruise of a lifetime. Yeah, it’s not riding, but they get to hang for a week with a thousand or more of their fellow riders without missing the party.

At the closing ceremony, Judy, one of the dialysis patients, came on stage with her husband Kenneth Inhoff. Judy had gone through 3 failed kidney transplants and has come to terms with living the rest of her life on dialysis.

She and Ken have put some 15,000 miles a year on their bike for quite some time. They plan their rides from treatment to treatment. Until this trip, they were never able to leave the country due to the costly, and sometimes non-existent, treatments elsewhere.

They had just found out about the High Seas Rally last year. They put in their application and soon after were called by Dean and Debbie to let them know they had been accepted. I truly don’t think there was a dry eye in the auditorium when Ken was done telling his story.

In the pages of this magazine you’ll read a story by Jeffrey Harth of his travels to Argentina with his friend Luis. I don’t want to give away the gist, so I’ll just say that Luis should be another inspiration to riders out there. Given his situation, it seems that he feels there is not much he can’t do. He may not be on two wheels anymore, but just from these few words, I can guess that he’s as fearless as anyone on his quad.

The next time you drag yourself out of bed with your few aches and creaky bones to go for a nice Sunday ride or, better yet, a longer adventure, think on these folks who would give anything to be able to do that. Seeing as ‘tis the season to be thankful, do just that. Look at what you’ve got and pass along some of the happiness in your life. I know that there are folks in far worse shape than I who do that everyday. Enjoy, and have a safe, happy and healthy New Year.

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

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P O S TC A R D FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD

bmW’s huge, yet light, NeWs There’s this conundrum that always rears its ugly head (or heads its ugly rear-I’m never quite sure which) whenever the subject of building the perfect touring motorcycle comes up. Like with human beings, politics, and especially human beings involved with politics, there are two fundamentally different approaches that conflict. The first approach revolves around the desire to make the touring motorcycle as complete and well-equipped as possible, to make the ride a truly pleasant experience.

The second is much simpler, and centers around a desire to travel as light as possible. The manufacturers swim in this turbulent pool, and while we can do great things on our own when we kit out our travel rides, it’s the realm of real brilliance where the engineers that build tour bikes for the masses really balance both approaches and practice a challenging art. The ultimate result is fascinating. Take any full dresser out and at first, if you’ve been regularly riding a CBR, Sportster or Monster, you will be a bit intimidated by this thing called “bulk.”

But after a few miles, you become amazed by how gracefully this fat lady/fat dude cruises around the dance floor. It’s a real art, in my opinion, how well big rigs like Honda’s Gold Wings, Harley’s Electra Glide Ultras, Yamaha’s (sorry. Star’s) Royal Star Ventures, and the BMW KLTs get around even while hauling everything including the (proverbial) kitchen sink. This is why the announcement of the all-new BMW K1600GTL (there’s a GT also, but it doesn’t have the tail trunk) is a very big deal. When you first look at the machine, you would think that the company just loaded the new flagship down with every bit of muscle, technology and luxury they could come up with. They did, but, amazingly, they also wanted this bike to be the lightest in its class. With all the things I’ve said about how well the cur-

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rent players handle (and I am very sincere in this regard), mass is still mass.

So if BMW did indeed pull this off, it is quite an accomplishment and could make their new UberTourer a real game-changer.

Let’s look at the info we have, for as of this writing nobody in our game has ridden one yet. Observe these specifications, and see if you as I did think this must be a really heavy heavyweight. The previous LT dresser had a 1200cc Inline Four, flopped down flat in the frame for a lower center of gravity. The new arrival has sprouted two more cylinders, and grown to 1649ccs and is mounted transversely in the all-new bridge-style frame. Despite the obvious expansion, BMW has gone to great lengths to keep this new 160-horsepower Inline Six as compact as possible, and claim it only weighs 226 lbs.

Likewise, the aforementioned frame is of lightweight aluminum alloy and the main structure weighs a paltry 35 lbs. The rear subframe is also very light alloy, and even with all this lightweight construction the GTL can carry 466 lbs, which includes the 7-gallon fuel tank at 90% full. Nothing looks to be sacrificed feature-wise in the interest of shedding weight, yet the bottom line is still pretty impressive. Both the double-A-arm Duolever front suspension and the shaft-drive Paralever rear suspension are present, and the capacious rear panniers are of course easily removed and the top case (with interior lighting of course) has 49 liters of cargo space.

ABS brakes, heated grips and seat, adjustable windscreen, cruise control, an on-board computer and Bluetooth-integrated sound system are all standard, and there are some very cool options including (as always) a Navigation System, BMW’s amazing Dynamic Traction Control, and something called ESA II which stands for Electronic Suspension Adjustment. That last bit lets you alter both damping and spring preload with the touch of a button, which is a great tool for a big tour bike that will be constantly changing road conditions and load variations. Oh, and one additional option is an Adaptive Headlight system, which can compensate for the bike leaning in turns to keep putting optimum illumination on the road.

(Continued on Page 10)

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DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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ON THE MARK MARK BYERS

automatioN automatoNs I used to think of motorcycles as pretty simple, elegant machines. Motorcycles had a carburetor or four, wheels, engine, frame, seat, handlebars, some brakes, and a kickstarter. There was even a simple metal stick on a hinge designed to hold it up when it wasn’t moving and a headlight you could turn on and off with a switch. Riding a motorcycle was a pretty simple affair too: you hopped on, put up the sidestand, turned the key, looked for a green “neutral” light, kicked her to life, put her in gear, and off you went. If you wanted or needed to, you turned on the headlight. Then life started to change, ostensibly for the better.

First, before every car in America was required to have its headlights on all the time, motorcycles suffered that mandate (hopefully so disinterested car drivers would stop running over us in droves). At first, a rider was entrusted to flip the little switch on the right bar and turn it on himself, but that wasn’t enough. Oh no, big Bro had to show he was helping us, so away went the headlight switch on motos sold in America, even though our European brethren were still entrusted to have the sense to turn them on and off.

Then came the sidestand. They were evil, it seems, because folks forgot to put them up and got a nasty surprise at their first left turn. Something had to be done about this egregious article! Some were spring-loaded to retract automatically, but people must have taken the spring off - horrors! Then, there was a simple rubber knob on the end that, if touched on the ground, would automatically fold the sidestand. Apparently, the knobs wore (or fell) off and people still crashed, so then came the sidestand safety interlock that wouldn’t let the engine run if the bike was in gear. Brilliant! Well, except when they shorted out in the rain and left you stranded in the middle of an intersection near Massanutten, VA. No, I’m not bitter.

There was still a lot of stuff wrong, however, that needed improvement.

That green light just wasn’t enough of a clue that the bike was indeed in neutral, so a clutch interlock switch was required to make sure that hitting the

starter wouldn’t send you flying into the spouse’s prize begonias (or the spouse, for that matter).

Thank goodness I’ve been forced into the habit of pulling in that clutch to start my machine! I nearly had to THINK for a minute about just looking for that giant emerald glow from around the speedometer area!

How would we ever ride without the multitude of improvements that have come in successive years? Rev limiters, fuel injection, servo-assisted fully-linked antilock braking systems, slipper clutches, electronic cruise control, and now (drum roll, please)...traction control. And here I thought traction control was in my right hand (or foot)! Thank goodness I’ve got my cell phone and my iPod bluetoothed through the GPS so it feeds the satellite, FRS radio, and radar detector audio signals to the intercom system in my modular helmet.

Wow! I almost had to think about RIDING there for a moment! With all this wizardry, I can now ride and still keep up with my broker and the latest travails of LiLo. That poor waif (my broker, not LiLo). It’s a good thing I don’t like to work on motorcycles anymore, because maintenance has been reduced to having a highly-trained dealer web site administrator plug a Cray supercomputer into a giant connector under the seat, saying “Yep, the display says you need to give us a thousand dollars for a new thrustmastoforniplator array.” “What’s that?” I say to the tech. “I dunno” he says, “but the sumbitch won’t run for spit without it. I think it has to do with the headlight.”

And now we’ve come full circle, my friends. For want of a headlight switch, the motorcycle was lost. We’ve become automation automatons, enslaved by increasing amounts of the wizardry we were told would free us. No longer is thinking required (or even allowed), for you might have a stray thought about leaving a long, black mark on the corner exit of an empty road by virtue of a generous application of throttle (sorry, right-hand position potentiometer). Riding skill, like subtle application of trail braking or actually paying attention to trivial things like whether your machine is in gear, is no longer required. You’re a systems monitor cosseted in an electronic coverlet.

I can feel my motor neurons atrophying as we speak.

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

Page 9

BACKLASH Perceptions 2 Brian, I enjoyed your recent Free Wheelin article Perceptions 2. I must say I too sometimes get funny looks when I ride up to a place in full gear. I tell people all the time I learned the hard way.

Eight years ago I crashed my motorcycle. My gear that day included a half helmet, leather boots, lightweight leather gloves and a heavy duty leather jacket. My mistake that day was wearing regular jeans and lightweight leather gloves. The impact of sliding down the road left me with some road rash on my legs and a gash on my hand. The road rash pain was worse then a broken bone. It took me over a month to ride after the crash. The road rash scars today are hardly noticeable. I learned from my mistakes and now wear a full face helmet, heavy duty gloves, kevlar jeans with body armor in the knees, shins, and hips, motorcycle race boots, and an all season riding jacket with body armor in the back, shoulders, and forearms. I ride year round except when there is ice and snow on the ground, a few times I got caught in some snow but made it home. I also don’t lane split at speed like I see so many riders do or ride the shoulder of the road when there is a traffic jam. Operating a motorcycle takes skill and common sense.

Keep up the great magazine. Ride Safe Andrew - Berkeley Heights, NJ Backroads, I liked the article and could not agree more that speeding tickets and other traffic violation tickets are more and more becoming a revenue stream. Here is my story: I got a ticket for not having my driver’s license with me. I was doing a quick run to the post office less than two miles away. Cost of ticket $210. Then I get a bill almost one year later for $104. Turns out that under Texas Transportation Code, Chapter 708 requires an annual surcharge for the next 36 months. That’s right! $104 x 3 for a total of $312 in additional fees.

Aaron Zimmermann Brian and Shira, Congratulations on 15 years! That’s an awesome achievement! I enjoy

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR reading every issue but wish those great riding roads weren’t 700 miles away.

Shira, thanks for the Not Again column in the October issue. I also have never heard of the chain tensioner disease! So much for German engineering. I’ve already ordered the parts to have my 1100 motor updated.

Best, Michael Nemlich

Schuberth Returns Backroads, I sent my Schuberth C2 to the new North America Headquarters for Schuberth. The C2 had been sitting on my shelf for the past year or so due to a badly marred face shield and one of the latches that hold the front face plate in place was loose not allowing a secure latching to the main body of the helmet.

Schuberth NA sent the helmet back and all I can say is wow. They performed a full service on the helmet, replacing all the hardware for the latches, new face shield, inner liner (or what ever they call it) breath guard, and virtually every component of the helmet. They even sent the helmet back in a beautiful helmet bag.

I’m not going to say how much this work costs, however it was very very reasonable. I will tell you that it was well worth the wait. From the time I shipped it to its return was about 2 weeks.

I have my beloved Schuberth helmet back again, and am now putting away the new Arai and Shoei placebo helmets I purchased this year. The Arai and Shoei are some of the finest helmets on the market, but they take a back seat to the Schuberth in terms of fit (especially fit), finish and functionality.

I’m looking forward to the release of the C3 with the SRC to the US market. I hope I’ll be able to figure out how to get the SRC to hook into my BMW K1200LT’s sound/intercom system. I’m also curious how the SRC will connect to the yet unreleased BMW K1600GTL. Welcome Back Schuberth, you where missed!

Charlie Green - 2006 BMW 1200LT (Continued on next page)

DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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Long Island Duc

free WheeliN’

Just read that Ducati piece in the October issue. Sorry you hit so much traffic. To the non-resident the descent roads seem far and few. Yes Long Island is no CT, MA, or VT but to those of us that live here it’s what we have unless we go away & it forces you to find the good stuff. The North Shore of Nassau County surprisingly has some great roads & a lot of history. As does Suffolk County and Shelter Island. (You and Shira would love Shelter Island) I have been riding Long Island since I received my MC license in 1970.

Next time you come to Long Island call either Ralph or me. Local knowledge would be a huge help here especially with such limited pickings. And we would be happy to show you about.

Truth I can’t wait to leave this sandbar. Hope all is well.

Bill Kane With the entire year of Backroads now available on-line complete with Hot-Links for the advertisers and downloadable Rip & Rides from 2010, here are some of the comments we got via email and Facebook: HOORAY !!!!!!!!

Brad Tabek Philly Raiders And the sweetness just continues Terry Faherty Whooo Hoooo!! Very Cool. Thanks.

Peter Miller Guys, I’m not a web-techie at all but your access to entire back issues and the way it’s done is so cool. There seems to be no end to your development.

Congratulations John Petrocelli Great idea putting all issues on line!! You guys are just so cutting edge!!!

Pam

(Continued from Page 4)

Over the years Shira and I have been able to get to a lot of places on motorcycles. Some we rode to, others we flew in and borrowed or rented motorcycles to get to where we needed to go.

Some, on sites like ADV Rider, might call us posers. I don’t think so and I don’t care.

Then there is the Iron Butt Rider. To them it is all about distance; and I have had a few of them make comments at us simply because I said 1,000 mile days are just not my thing.

To them I might be a poser. I think not.

They certainly aren’t posers. Still, I can respect what they do, but I don’t have to hold it in reverence.

When it comes to this world of motorcycling that we choose to ride in, and we all choose to do this, and there is a wide palette of riders, rides and paradigms on what riding is.

The young girl with the 250 Ninja just getting into the sport. The retired couples on Gold Wings. That gaggle of young guys on various Sport Bikes du jour exploring the backroads. That HOG Group that meets each Sunday to find the next Great All American Diner Run. The father and son who ride out to some remote trail with two dirt bikes strapped in the back of the pickup truck. The ladies getting together and doing an All Women’s Track Day. The fellow with maybe too much money and too much chrome who gingerly rides his custom chopper to the Bike Night each week. That lone wolf rider who just gets out every few weeks “Bronson-Style” to wherever the road takes him.

You know something? I don’t see a poser in the entire crowd. postcards from the hedge (Continued from Page 7) Now, I hope I’ve established that this new Love Boat Beemer is armed to the teeth with the best of the best in touring/riding amenities. Yet, if they are speaking the truth (and I have no reason to think they aren’t) the K1600GTL weighs in at 767 lbs. Contrast this with a Gold Wing, which is 895-925 depending on option packages and the Harley at 888 lbs. The Royal Star Venture S tips the scales at 869 lbs., so we seem to have a very interesting situation here. I love this stuff. Lighter, yet loaded. Can’t wait to ride the new GTL, and see if it lives up to what looks to be tremendous potential.

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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

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THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD We thought it was time to bring back a tradition.

This tale was originally printed in Backroads in 1996. We hope you enjoy it and we would like to wish all our readers a happy, wonderful, awesome, magnificent and safe Holiday Season!

Nick’s Tale - A Christmas Story Nick needed this. Even though he ran right into a driving rain storm, cold drops of water working their way down through his rain suit, getting him wet in that uncomfortable spot we all know so well.

His job, which he had been doing for so many years, was one which kept him busy for months at a time, but during the summer each year he would always find a few weeks for himself. No wife, no labor problems, no responsibilities, just him and the bike. This year he was traveling south.

Well, Nick always seemed to travel south. Down that long stretch of asphalt that would carry him and his bike up and over the Canadian Rockies, and then east. Working his way down through the forestry logger roads and then the occasional big highways, Nick finally crossed the border by Route 30 in the Adirondacks of New York state. Somewhere near Lake Placid he pulled over to get a bite to eat. Munching on a cold meatloaf sandwich, he sat on a park bench silently watching the people walking by, taking care of their day to day business.

A small child made a beeline for Nick’s bike. Nick dropped the sandwich and lunged forward, whisking the little tyke away from the still hot exhaust.

“Hey now little one,” Nick said laughing as he handed the little boy back to his concerned mother.

“Those pipes are still on the warm side and you won’t be wanting to touch them.”

The mother took the child into her arms. “I’m sorry sir,” she started to say, but then stopped, staring at Nick.

“Don’t I know you,” she asked.

Nick shrugged his shoulders and laughed. “Could be, maybe, some day I guess we’ll see.”

Nick laughed again as the little boy reached out and pulled on Nick’s beard. It was pretty long now. He had been growing it for quite some time.

Years ago in had gone white. Right around the time he had taken on his present position.

“No Michael, don’t pull on the nice man’s beard,” the mother scolded the little boy.

“I’m very sorry,” she said again, “but Mikey here just loves motorcycles. Always has. Every time he hears one his head gets to spinning around. His Dad had one.”

Her eyes drifted off and Nick sensed there was more to her story.

“Really, what’s the boy’s father ride?” asked Nick.

The woman, not much older than 30 years old, looked up. Her eyes turning red, suddenly welling with tears.

“He had a Harley,” she said, “but he was in an accident a few months ago. We’re kinda on our own now, Mikey and me.”

She gave the little boy a squeeze. He giggled and reached for Nick’s beard again.

“I’m so sorry,” Nick said, “sometimes life can be cruel like that. I travel a lot and I have seen so many sad things...but I have seen a lot of good things too...like little Michael here.”

The woman smiled and gave the boy another squeeze.

“His Daddy has been in a hospital for months. He never woke up. The doctors tell me he still has a chance 67 North but I am starting to lose faith.”

Nick reached out with a big calloused hand. He stroked the tear off the mother’s face.

“Never, never give up...never lose faith. Just when you think the world is against you... something will happen. Just never give up!”

“Bike, Mommy. I want a bike,” the boy said.

“He loves those things,” the mother said.

Nick’s eyes lit up. “Hey, Michael, come over here,” said Nick, walking over to his machine.

He rustled open his saddle bag and pulled out a perfectly wrapped box.

“Now here is the deal... I know you Michael... you’re a pretty nice little boy.”

The kid’s eyes grew big seeing the box in Nick’s hand.

“Now I’m gonna give you this box, but you have to wait to open it.”

The boy’s lip pouted a bit. “Not too long though,” answered Nick, as if he was reading the boy’s mind.

“I want you to wait till later today, when you go to see Daddy at the hospital.” At hearing the word Daddy little Michael looked up at Nick.

“Mommy says Daddy’s sleeping. He’s been sleeping a long time. Is he ever going to wake up?”

Nick looked at the mother. She shook her head and sadly lowered it. Nick reached out and picked up little Michael.

“Remember what I said son...never give up believing!”

With that he handed the boy to the mother. Getting on his bike, he looked back and smiled at the two of them.

“Remember.”

The two nodded, and then, with a push of a button, the motorcycle came to life and Nick punched it into first and pulled away from the curb.

(Continued on Page 13)

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DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

INDUSTRY INFOBITES

News from the Inside

olympia moto sports appare JoiNs forces With motoQuest tours MotoQuest Tours has chosen Olympia Moto Sports apparel as their exclusive resource for outfitting their team of international guides. OMS rental gear is also available through MotoQuest. Olympia impressed the MotoQuest team while testing their new AST gear during a 1000 mile dual sport ride in Alaska. “I was blown away by their quality and innovative designs” said Phil Freeman, owner of MotoQuest. “We offer tour options for all riding levels but many take us through a variety of extreme terrain and weather conditions. Our protective gear has to be multifunctional and built to last.”

“We’re honored to have the MotoQuest Team put our brand to the test” said Kevin and Karilea Rhea, owners of Olympia Moto Sports. “Phil offers up the most unique and enjoyable riding experience you can imagine and we look forward to many new adventures with MotoQuest.” For more information go to www.olympiamotosports.com, and www.motoquesttours.com

americade ceNtralizes After 28 years located at Roaring Brook Ranch on the outskirts of the town of Lake George, Americade is centralizing and moving its social headquarters closer to its two TourExpo tradeshow locations at the Beach and The Forum in Lake George. Starting in June 2011, the mega-rally’s HQ will be the Fort William Henry Resort, overlooking Lake George, on the hill above

the Beach Road Parking Lot where Americade’s daily MiniTours assemble.

“Many of our attendees wanted the convenience of being able to park and walk between our headquarters, the tradeshow, the boat cruises and the village shops and restaurants. This move will make that possible” said event founder, Bill Dutcher. “Furthermore, many Americaders will be able to attend evening events at our social headquarters and walk back to their motels, or catch the regularly-scheduled village trolleys. We’ve given the matter plenty of thought over the past 28 years... we didn’t exactly rush the decision.”

Fort William Henry Resort will host many of the demo rides, some factory displays, judging competitions, seminars, fashion shows, and most of the parties. Americade will utilize the entire property including its conference center and banquet rooms. “The spacious back lawn of the Fort provides the absolutely best view of the lake, looking north, and will also be a great place for our get-togethers” said Christian Dutcher.

Event registration and check-in will remain at Holiday Inn, just up the street from Fort William Henry.

Pre-registered Americaders can pick up their packets Monday, June 6. For more details, go to SALES • SERVICE starting www.americade.com, call 518-798-7888, or email STRAPS • D RING info@tourexpo.com.

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depending on what style of motorcycle they ride. The problem is that the laws do not treat the many styles of motorcycles any differently than they would cars and small trucks. That is why every motorcyclist needs to get involved with the political process. Do not wait until it is too late. Get active now.

osha WaNts school district to baN motorcycle use by admiNistrator According to a report in the Mail Tribune, officials with the Oregon Occupational Safety and Health Division are urging the Eagle Point School District to prohibit employees from using motorcycles as transportation to work-related activities.

This comes after Principal Tiffany O’Donnell was se-

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

Page 13

thoughts from the road

(Continued from Page 11)

Later that day the mother and child went to St. Anne’s Hospital. They had been going there every day for months.

Susan loved Michael’s father very much. She often thought about the trips they had taken on his bike. How he had proposed at the monument in Key West. How little Michael had been conceived on that trip to California... but now all that seemed so far away as he lay in this hospital bed. Eyes closed, breath shallow.

How helpless she felt. How scared.

She stroked her husband’s hair.

“I love you,” she said quietly into his ear.

“Mommy look,” Michael cried, “It’s a motorcycle!”

The woman turned around from the bed. The little boy had wasted no time in opening Nick’s gift.

She smiled and said, “It’s just like Daddy’s.”

“Yes... it is,” a small quiet voice sounded behind her.

She froze... feelings of shock and fear... replaced by...

“Oh my God,” she said softly, afraid to turn around.

“I love you too,” came the voice again. riously injured Sept. 13 in a motorcycle accident en route between the two rural schools.

OSHA officials say that the principal or the school has not violated any regulations, and no citations have been issued to the district. But OSHA cautioned that allowing employees to drive motorcycles for work activities presents a hazard to employees, as well as a liability to the school district.

The agency also recommended that administrators be added to the district’s DMV automatic reporting system where the district can check on employees’ driving records and licenses to operate a motor vehicle. Neither recommendation is mandatory, according to OSHA. According to the repot the principal was hit by a driver in a pickup truck which was making an illegal U-turn on Highway 62.

yemeN baNs bikes Riding a motorcycle is a popular pastime in Yemen, but fearing al-Qaida

“Daddy!” screamed Michael as he burst pass his crying mother, bounding onto the bed, hugging his dad.

The nurses came rushing in, but stopped to watch the family holding each other tightly.

“I had the strangest dream,” the father said. “I was riding my bike, and I was lost. I kept looking for a way home, but I couldn’t find it. Then I hooked up with this other biker. A big guy, with a white beard. He told me follow him. We rode for days, up stunning mountains and through dark forests. We rode to places so beautiful I almost didn’t want to come home. But then, at a crossroad, he stopped and told me he loved the ride, but I had to go this way, through this tunnel. He said I should never lose faith and that we would ride again. I rode through the tunnel. It was dark, but there was a bright light at its end. When I rode into the sunshine I heard you telling me you loved me.”

Susan looked at him, tears running down her cheeks. She hugged him again and said once more that she loved him.

Nick walked out of Captain Tony’s. Lighting up a hand rolled cigar he strolled down Duval Street. The sun was starting to set on Mallory Square.

He went to a quiet part of the pier and sat down to enjoy both the sunset and the smoke. Behind him, he heard a young family laughing as they passed by...he smiled... in his business you have to learn early never to lose faith. assassins on wheels authorities in Yemen’s Abyan Governorate, a growing terrorist stronghold in the Arabian Peninsula, have banned motorcycles from cities in the region’s urban centers.

“Using motorbikes in terrorist operations to assassinate intelligence officers and security personnel have been massively mounted over the past nine months in the province,” a Yemeni Interior Ministry official told the Xinhua news agency following a series of assassinations by al-Qaida militants throughout Abyan and will affect some 5,000 two-wheeled vehicles.

“Motorcycles are typically used by terrorists and insurgents to deliver weapons directly if it’s a suicide attack or to make a quick getaway,” Dr Theodore Karasik, Director for Research and Development at the Institute for Near East Gulf Military Analysis told The Media Line. “The banning of motorcycles is indicative of how the government, with help from US officers, is trying to cut down on the movements of al-Qaida members and tribal members who support them.”

(Continued on Page 39)

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WardeNclyffe tesla’s dream that Would have chaNged the World In my opinion there have been few men that have changed history in such dramatic fashion, and then promptly been cast aside from history’s accolades than Nikola Tesla.

Born in Serbia, Tesla showed from the very beginning that his mind worked in a different way. He would envision things that made no sense to the average man but perfect sense to him.

And, then he would go about and make the impossible happen.

Leaving his native land he came to America, specifically to work for Thomas Edison. This partnership did not last long as Edison, for all his own greatness, was a difficult man to deal with and would often misrepresent promises (lied?) to his employees (he called them Muckers) and eventually they angrily parted ways only to clash later on in the battle over DC versus AC electrical current.

To give you an idea of how much you personally owe Nikola Tesla I would like you to do a little experiment with me. Go to the fuse panel for your home or office right now and turn off the electricity to the building.

Now sit back for the rest of the evening. Maybe finish this article by candlelight or oil lamp.

Every time anyone around the globe turns on a light, plugs in a computer or visits Las Vegas they have Tesla to thank.

He created this all. Much to Edison’s chagrin.

But, this was not all this tall Serbian Wizard had rolling around in his brilliant mind. He had bigger plans for the world. And, he wanted to do it for free.

In a race for the creation of a working radio, the theory that Tesla himself had told his student Marconi years before, Tesla got the silent backing of J.P. Morgan - one of the richest men in the world.

Construction began on a huge tower, near Shoreham, Long Island. Architect Stanford White designed the Wardenclyffe facility main building. The tower was designed by W.D. Crow, an associate of White.

With the race on for the first radio transmission some wondered about Tesla’s design and what was really going on.

The truth was that Tesla wanted to show wireless communication was indeed possible, but so was something else, something that would have

changed everything on our planet. Tesla wanted to supply energy; Free energy; Wirelessly to the entire planet.

When Morgan found out about this he demanded to know how he would be able to “Put a meter on this energy?”

Nikola replied that there would not be a meter. The energy was already there, in what was then called the ether. It would be magnificent.

Morgan pulled his funding and Wardenclffye slowly died. From there the great Tesla slowly spiraled down from the pinnacle of great men in history to the depths of the New Yorker Hotel where he died nearly forgotten on January 7th, 1943.

Everything Tesla set out to do he did. All but this.

Could you imagine what our world would be like if there was free energy for all mankind?

A far more utopian planet I would think.

A few years later the Federal Government blew up the tower, using Nobel’s TNT, an ironic thing considering How Nikola Tesla deserved but never got the prize named after Nobel.

Today the main building of Wardenclffye still stands and you can find it right at the junction of Route 25A and Tesla Street just outside of what is now the bustling town of Shoreham.

Making things even more ironic is that the nuclear power plant is not far from here and just across the street stands a giant cell phone tower.

Who’d have thunk?

AGFA owned the property for years and promptly turned it into a Superfund Site polluted with silver and cadmium. Nice.

Cleanup has been completed, but the once grand property sits empty like

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

Page 15

a ghost town reflecting what greatness there might once have been.

It is for sale for $1,650,000 and AGFA says they can deliver if leveled and cleared.

Leveled and cleared?

My God... it would be akin to the Taliban blowing up the Standing Buddhas in Afghanistan!

There is a group, the Tesla Memorial Society, that is trying to get this site recognized by the federal government as a Historical Site on the National Registry and to have a museum called Tesla Museum and Science Center at Wardenclyffe created there. Something I feel is way overdue.

For more information on this and how you can get involved log onto www.teslascience.org.

Tesla was a true visionary and a man that did change our planet for the better, but given the chance his future for our world would have been much brighter, healthier and far less bloody.

DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 16

B I G C I T Y G E TA W AY the battle of hubbardtoN vermoNt’s oNly revolutioNary battlefield Many riders who think they know history might tell you that the giant monument in Bennington is in honor of the Revolutionary Battle fought there.

Truth is that battle was actually fought a bit west in New York. But, Vermont does have its own hallowed ground, miles north at Hubbardton.

This battle, if it had gone the other way, would have changed everything and we dare say this nation would not be the same if not for Colonel Seth Warner and the Green Mountain Boys.

Our Patriot Army was in retreat from Burgoyne’s Red Coats. When these exhausted men had marched over 20 miles, reaching the hills of Hubbardton, they transferred a number of soldiers from the main army to the rear guard.

The main army would continue their southward retreat and the rear guard, now numbering 1,000 to 1,200 men, would protect them from the pursuing British.

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daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind Rear guards were a standard military security strategy to protect retreating troops. The mission of a rear guard is to delay the enemy in their pursuit, force the enemy to deploy all their forces in action with the rear guard, engage the enemy in such a way as to avoid close combat, and to withdraw safely as soon as possible.

Colonel Seth Warner led the expanded American rear guard. It consisted of his Green Mountain Boy Continental regiment and some militia; Colonel Francis leading a portion of his Massachusetts Continental regiment and selected units from other regiments; and Colonel Nathan Hale with his 2nd New Hampshire Continental Regiment and a number of sick and stragglers.

The advancing British were seasoned Regulars, superior to the Americans in training, experience, and equipment. They consisted of Brigadier General Simon Fraser, one of Burgoyne’s best line officers, and his elite Advance Corps; Major Robert Grant with his 24th Regiment of Foot; Major Alexander Lindsay leading the British light infantry; Major John Acland with the British grenadiers; and Major General Baron von Riedesel and his German Brunswick troops.

As darkness turned to dawn the sultry morning of July 7, Warner’s rear guard was encamped in the vicinity of what is now called Monument Hill.

The exhausted men were resting before continuing south to join St. Clair’s troops at Castleton.

At 5:00 a.m. American pickets in the saddle near Sargent Hill, to the northwest of Monument Hill, spotted approaching British scouts. The pickets fired, and moved back to join their main body. By 6:30, as the first British soldiers reached Sucker Brook, the American delaying companies started firing,

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killing Major Grant and 21 others. Thus began the Battle of Hubbardton, the first time Burgoyne’s army met the resistance and bravery of Americans in battle.

Some of the American rear guard moved to a strategic defensive location atop Monument Hill, which they had prepared the day before by cutting down trees so the tangle of outstretched branches faced the ® enemy. The British attacked the hill, but were repulsed and forced back to their former position.

HE ATTLE OF UBBARDTON The Americans returned to the hilltop and again the British attacked and were repulsed. The START: GRAY GHOST INN battle continued on as the British tried to encir290 RTE. 100 NORTH, WEST DOVER, VT cle the Americans, who consolidated their position behind a brush fence on the east side of the NORTH ON RTE. 100 road to Castleton. British General Fraser realized he needed reinforcements to win the battle and LEFT AT RTE. 30 sent word to von Riedesel, following behind, to RIGHT AT RTE. 7 NORTH join him.

British grenadiers, trying to keep the rear RIGHT AT RTE. 4 guard from retreating southward, scrambled up the rugged Pittsford Ridge mountain, well to the LEFT AT RTE. 100 east beyond the fence, and formed a human barrier across the road and up the mountain. By 8:30 LEFT AT RTE. 73 BRANDONS GAP a.m. von Riedesel’s Brunswickers had arrived, with a band playing loudly and BEAR LEFT AT SETH WARNER HIGHWAY RTE. 30 soldiers singing hymns. They attacked the American northern flank, which was just about to trap the British on their left. In the fierce fighting on the mountain LEFT AT MONUMENT HILL RD. Colonel Francis was killed. The rest of the American rear guard withdrew as best as they could over Pittsford Ridge. There was occasional gunfire along the ridge FOLLOW SIGNS TO BATTLEFIELD for some time, but by 8:45 a.m. the battle was over.

The American rear guard had successfully accomplished its mission. It fully deployed the pursuing British, delaying them long enough so St. Clair and his main army could safely retreat southward. These solinc. diers also skillfully disengaged from their enemy, fighting the British to a near standstill, and avoiding further American casualties and pursuit. The British held the Luggage • Jackets • Pants • Boots • Rain Gear • Tools • Exhausts • Tires field after the fighting was over and in technical terms Sprockets • Chains • Bar Risers • Brakes • Lines • Ramps • Lifts • OEM Parts won the battle, but their losses were so heavy that GenSport ~ Touring ~ Cruiser eral Fraser gave up chasing St. Clair and his army. Instead, the British stayed at Hubbardton for several days • Large Selection of Premium Helmets to care for the wounded and to bury their own dead.

• Tires - Mounted and Balanced They left the American dead on the field, and brought the wounded and prisoners north to Mount Independ• Track and Race Bike Set-Up ence and Fort Ticonderoga.

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This battle was the beginning of the end for Burgoyne and his great military plan. On August 16 he suffered a stunning blow when Brigadier General John Stark led American forces to defeat two detachments of Burgoyne’s army sent to capture much needed supplies at the American arsenal in Bennington, Vermont. Soon after the Battle of Bennington Burgoyne wrote about Agents who ride and understand the people of Vermont as “the most active and most reyour Motorcycle Insurance Needs MEMBER bellious race on the continent” and that they were hangMEMBER ing “like a gathering storm” on his left. On October 17, 1777, after the battles of Saratoga, he surrendered with Ask about our Tour Cycle Program – the Ultimate in Coverage his entire Army.

Today visiting the battle site the area has a peaceful Passenger Coverage • Accessories Coverage and serene feel. The monument, although small compared to the huge one in Bennington, is stately and well Medical Payments Coverage suited for the site. For a few dollars you can walk the battlefield and small informative plaques will tell the story.

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G R E AT A L L A M E R I C A N D I N E R R U N

tasty places to take your bike

the middle of NoWhere diNer 222 NoosNeck hill road, exeter, ri 02822 401-397-8855 • WWW.themiddleofNoWherediNer.com

Everybody knows this is nowhere....

- Neil Young While on tour in New England we spent a few days in the tiny state of Rhode Island. Yep, Rhode Island may be tiny geographically, but they do have the largest official name - The State of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations. Now that’s a mouthful. Speaking of mouthfuls - we were looking for a place for breakfast and Shira, who is the purveyor of all things delicious in Backroads, came across a place with the most interesting name The Middle of Nowhere Diner.

With a name like that we had to go a searchin’!

Just outside of Exeter we found what we were looking for. Now the image that they use on their website might be fibbin’ just a bit - but according to the same website there is a story to tell.

It was 15 years ago when Louie Zarokostas and an employee of his, Neil White happened along a diner called Hills, in what appeared to be the middle of nowhere. They stopped to grab a bite and get their bearings. They asked the owner how he managed to stay in business so far off the beaten path. His reply was, “I get by. Why, you want to buy the place or somthin”?

Louie offered him $500.00 and much to his surprise the guy accepted. Thus the Middle Of Nowhere diner was born. The name seemed all together fitting and proper. Louie has been in the restaurant business for 30 years and has opened 20 restaurants, all of which are still open today. Neil ran the place for

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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

Page 19

Omelet. Ahh... straight to the aorta!

That day the lunch specials were on the board - Meatloaf, Lasagna, Shepherd’s Pie. This is a serious eatery for those riders like us who are serious about our eating.

As their menu says: “When the sky is dark and the moon is bright, the hunger within comes late at night. The aroma of coffee so subtle, yet sublime, the growl of our stomach annouces it’s time. This feeling of emptiness has made us aware, so simple a cure - the Middle of Nowhere.”

So follow along with us to the Middle of Nowhere and we’ll make this an even better thing by starting this Rip & Ride from the showroom at Twisted Throttle Gear, in Peacedale, RI so you can stock up on the best in touring and adventure gear.

14 years and fell upon hard times. After reaching an agreement Louie ended up taking the place back.

While we were there we saw a steady flow of customers all who seemed to be regulars. Our theory has always been - Go where the locals go! We also saw a number of bikes pull up, always a good sign for us.

The Middle of Nowhere Diner has two menus, Daytime and Late Night; the difference being it seemed everything on the Late Night menu has a dollar added to each item. But, if you find yourself hungry in the middle of nowhere you will fork over the buck to fork food into your belly.

I know this day we were not disappointed.

This place has everything you would want and more.

Why have regular run of the mill sausage when you can have their homemade patties. They were huge and delicious. More like sausage burgers - yum! All sorts of pancakes including Gooey Chocolate Chip and Very Blueberry cakes. Four eggs omelets like Corned Beef Hash and Cheese and Cheese & More Cheese Cheesy

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DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 20

Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents

W E ’ R E O U T TA H E R E Michael Hoffmann

Joshua WiltoN house 412 south maiN st • harrisoNburg, virgiNia 22801 540-434-4464 • WWW.JoshuaWiltoN.com rooms start at $145/Night iNcludiNg breakfast While planning our ride to this year’s Backroads Summer Sojourn in Fontana Dam NC, the dream of taking a leisurely back road ride there was quickly erased by the fact that our vacation time was just about all used up.

Unfortunately, the thought of twisty mountainous roads turned into four lane interstates in a real hurry. Well, if pounding the highway was going to be the only way there, so be it. We weren’t going to miss our friends at Backroads and this 15th anniversary event for anything.

I decided that if we were going to be riding the four lane interstates for two days, then a real neat place to stay midway was certainly in order. I ran a quick map quest from our home on Long Island to Fontana Dam. From there I then picked a town along Route 81 as close to the midway point as possible. As it turns out, the midway point would bring us to the town of Harrisonburg, Virginia. Now, given a choice, Lisa and I will choose to stay at a B&B every time so the next step was to find one in or close to Harrisonburg.

I was lucky enough to find a fantastic one! It’s called the Joshua Wilton House Inn & Restaurant and it’s located right on South Main Street in the “Old Town” district of Harrisonburg, Virginia and close to James Madison University. From their website, you will find that the house was built and completed for the Wilton family in 1888. The house changed hands several times over the years. The Moore family purchased the home in 1986 and took two years to restore the home to its original grandeur. They added a restaurant, kitchen, sunroom and brick patio. The Joshua Wilton House Inn and Restaurant opened in May of 1988 on the 100th anniversary of the house.

Since then, it has served as a fine dining restaurant and bed and breakfast, the first of its kind in Harrisonburg.

In 2004, the Joshua Wilton House changed hands again. Ann Marie Coe, Mark Newsome and Sean Pugh, all three close friends, JMU alumni and former employees, made the next natural step of ownership when they purchased the business and building from the Moores. Since then, they have continued the tradition of fine food and hospitality that has always been the Joshua Wilton House trademark.

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads The Inn offers five rooms all with private baths, furnished with restored period antiques and reproductions. A gourmet breakfast for two, which is simply out of this world, is included in the room rate. You will also find free Wi-Fi for those of you who need to be connected for work or pleasure. There is also a private fenced-in parking area so your bike will be safe during your stay. If you visit Tuesday through Saturday, you will also find award winning dining with a large selection of wine recognized by Wine Spectator, and receiving the Award of Excellence for the years 1999-2008 and again in 2010.

So how was our stay? Just fantastic! From the moment we arrived on Sunday afternoon we felt immediately at home. We were met by the Innkeeper Megan Butterworth, who showed us around and showed us our room. She was so friendly and welcoming after our long day on the road. Megan helped us find the bar and two nice glasses of merlot, which we enjoyed while sitting in the large rockers on the front porch. We were very content to just relax and watch the world go by for a while.

We returned to our very comfy room for a hot shower and a change into more comfortable clothes. The bathroom has been updated and the shower was awesome. After a very nice hot shower, Lisa really enjoyed curling up in the terry cloth robe that awaited her. All cleaned up and relaxed, we wandered out of the Inn to have a look around the town.

Breakfast at the Joshua Wilton House was served between 8:00 and 10:00 Monday morning. We had over 400 miles to travel on Monday so we were at breakfast at 8:00 am and met by Kaytea Thompson, our server. Kaytea was just wonderful, bright and cheerful and an aspiring artist, who told us that most of their produce comes from a farmers market just across the street.

Kaytea served us up a breakfast that we soon won’t forget. First course was a fruit parfait made with local fruit, yogurt, nuts and granola. In addition, there was a homemade plum pastry. As if that wasn’t enough, out came the second course, which consisted of egg & steak benedict with bacon and grits.

This was simply delicious and unlike anything I have had before. Dave Efraimson, the chef, who we understand just started at the Inn that very week, did a masterful job both in the presentation and quality of food we had both

mornings we stayed. A most excellent job!

Since we missed out on the dinner at the Inn that evening, I had asked Megan to see if a room was available for our return trip Friday afternoon.

Megan promised to look into it and as we found out at check out the following morning, we were already booked for Friday evening with dinner reservations for 6:30.

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

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After three full days of fantastic riding, scenery, food, drink and camaraderie at the Summer Sojourn, it’s time to pack up and set out towards home. As we rode through the

Tail of the Dragon for the third time, we discussed our return stay at the Joshua Wilton House and couldn’t wait to get back and relax once again on the front porch.

We also tried to imagine what our dinner plates will look like as we made our way to our overnight stop on the way home.

We arrived back at the Joshua Wilton house sometime after 3:00 pm Friday afternoon and were met by Ann Marie Coe. Once again we felt instantly welcomed and at home. We were early and had 6:30 dinner reservations so we decided to head back to town to sample a few more of the beers that Jack Browns had to offer. This part of Harrisonburg is full of charming shops, historical architecture and of course home to JMU. Cleaned up and with a change of clothes, we headed to the bar and were met by Kimberly, another friendly face, who made us superb drinks, which she brought to us while we sat out on the front porch waiting for our table.

Bill, our waiter for dinner, was happy, friendly and helpful, just as everyone else we had met here.

After Bill explained all of the evening’s specials, we began to study the menu. With too many to list here, let’s just say that there probably wasn’t any bad choice. Lisa chose the Pan Seared Scallops for an appetizer and I the Prince Edward Mussels. Presentation was beautiful and the food fantastic.

For dinner we had the NY State Strip steak and the Rock Fish and Crab special. Again you couldn’t ask for tastier food and the service was second to none. The chef who created this fabulous feast was Mark Cinema.

Then with not much room left after such a fantastic meal, we decided to share some dessert and there were so many choices. We chose to share the chocolate soufflé cake with some tea and coffee. Once again, we were not disappointed and enjoyed a wonderful finish to our evening.

If you are looking for a neat place to go, or planning a trip that takes you south on or around I-81 close to Harrisonburg, we highly recommend giving the Joshua Wilton House a call.

Comfort abounds at the Joshua Wilton House from breakfast to dinner to bedtime.

DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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et e w S d n a t r o Sh rough ing Th

ont t r m r o e p V S l l a Dua , Centr t s e r o F e State g d i l o Co Tyler W. Yandow A couple of riding seasons back I spent the weekend visiting my friend and architect colleague Phil in Barnard, Vermont. The shortest route normally takes me through Rutland (or Rut-Vegas as it is locally known) which is less than a thrilling experience on a motorcycle.

Route 7 in the Rutland area is clogged with traffic almost constantly except for around two in the morning and the scenery is nothing less than the perfect example of commercial suburban sprawl. So on my return trip home to Dorset I decided to try another route. Phil and I got out the Vermont Gazetteer and found a promising route through the Coolidge State Forest which would drop me back on Route 7 south of the above noted dreaded congestion. What made this route appear promising is that the road through the forest was labeled ‘closed in winter.’ That sounded like fun.

First a bit about Barnard. This tiny Vermont town is located on Silver Lake which is home to Silver Lake State Park. This is a great place to stay if you want to camp or use one of the lean-to sites.

The park has rest rooms and hot showers, and the beach area offers a food concession and boat and canoe rentals. You can also just stop for the day and enjoy the picnic grounds for lunch. Speaking of lunch, the Barnard General Store is one place you will not want to miss. Owned and operated by

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Barnard residents Carolyn DiCicco and Kim Furlong, they’ll pack you a picnic lunch to enjoy across the street on the lake front, at the State Park, or on the nearby Appalachian Trail. If you just need something sweet, their 1950s-era soda fountain is well known for their milk shakes and sundaes.

Established in 1832, this store is what going back in time is all about.

From Barnard I took Route 12 south to Woodstock. This is a wonderful two-lane scenic road typical of so many in Vermont. It is lined with the farmland and forest which makes this state so attractive to those of us who travel on two wheels. Woodstock is a beautiful, classic New England town whose architecture, shops, and eateries are well worth a visit. One of Woodstock’s best known attractions is the Billings Farm & Museum.

Housed in four connected historic barns is a notable exhibit of farm life in 1890 Vermont documented through the museum’s folk life studies, artifacts, oral histories, and historic photographs. Established in 1871 by Frederick Billings, the grounds still have an extensive working dairy farm comprised of Jersey cows and Southdown sheep. The museum is open May through October.

uring the w i n t e r months this gate is locked. During the summer it is the entrance to one of the most beautiful and remote roads in the area.

D

he Shrewsbury Community Church, founded in 1804.

T

ing camp), there are no utility lines either. What dominates the scenery is lush, untouched green forest. I saw only one other vehicle before North Shrewsbury, an old Ford station wagon pulling a home made utility trailer. I think both the driver and I wondered what the other person was doing there.

The town of North Shrewsbury consists of a few farm buildings and houses, a church, and a bed and breakfast. It’s the sort of place one would feel comfortable knocking on anyone’s door for any reason at all, even to just say hello. If you want to take a break here, the Maple Crest Farm bed and breakfast offers a full breakfast with your room and has walking and hik-

he proximity to the road is one clue the Maple Crest Farm B & B has been here quite a while.

T

In Woodstock, turn west on Route 4 until you reach Route 100 in West Bridgewater. Route 100 is one of Vermont’s best known motorcycling roads, and for good reason. It’s got plenty of twisties and there’s a great new view around every corner. Stay on Route 100 for about three miles, passing Woodward Reservoir on your left. Just a very short distance past the reservoir is

he 650 VStrom is an ideal dual sport machine for exploring Vermont’s back roads.roads in the area.

T

a dirt road with a gate. It looks like the entrance to a gravel pit and there are no signs that I can recall. This is the road through Coolidge State Forest.

Although the road is identified as “Roundtop Road” on the Google Maps web site, there is no evidence of this in the physical world.

Although the dirt portion of this road is short, ending in the thriving metropolis of North Shrewsbury, it is worth every foot traveled. The road starts out with several very tight turns as it climbs up Ingalis Hill. Take your time as the gravel is loose in many places. This road could be negotiated with a stock street bike but having at least dual sport tires will make it much more enjoyable. What appealed to me about this road was the sense of remoteness I experienced, even though I was relatively close to home. Not only are there no structures until one arrives in North Shrewsbury (I didn’t even see a hunt-

ing on the farm’s 320 acres. Housed in an historic 1808 Federal style home, this is one place you can get a real taste of the Green Mountain State. Across the street is another historic structure, the Shrewsbury Community Church and Meeting House. Like so many churches in Vermont, this building is the focal point of the town from both an architectural and cultural viewpoint.

Leaving town, follow the road to Shrewsbury and from there to Cuttingsville where you can pick up Route 103. 103 runs north to Clarendon and south to East Wallingford. In either case you can reconnect with Route 7 which is a major artery through the state.

The great thing about this ride is that it is easily accessible from almost anywhere in central Vermont as well as the Lake George region of New York. If you happen to be at Americade next year, consider making a day trip over to Vermont for this short but very sweet ride. I don’t think you’ll regret it.

oes it get any better than this? Vermont is home to many little traveled back roads such as this one. The VStrom couldn’t have been happier.

D

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ey kids, what time is it? No, it’s not Howdy Doody or SpongeBob, but that magical time when the thought of giving is in the air. The lists are being made and checked twice. So what’s it going to be, naughy or nice? Will you find some great new farkle for your ride under the tree, or just another hand-knit scarf or fruitcake. Maybe, if you’re really lucky and you leave this lying around, you’ll be surprised with just the right thing. Or maybe you’ll find the answer to that elusive question, ‘What the heck am I going to get for Bob this year?’ Yeah, what about Bob?

H it’s…

Backroads’ Holiday Gift Guide

…again

Brian’s Holiday Tank Bag Stuffers steve mcQueen: a tribute to the king of cool, by marshall terrill, tells the actor’s story through the eyes of those who knew him best: family, friends, co-stars, business associates, acquaintances and adoring fans from around the globe. Written in passage form, each person brings a different view to the man and the legend, presenting him in an unsurpassed 360-degree perspective.

It reads like a biography and is sure to please McQueen fans like me. I know it will have a place of honor on our McQueen Wall of Fame!

Accompanying the 200 passages are hundreds of photos, many of which are seen here for the first time. They illustrate McQueen’s life and movie career, as well as his passion for automobiles, motorcycles and antique airplanes. The 384-page book includes a foreword by his widow Barbara McQueen, a family tree, copies of personal documents and memorabilia, and passages from several Hollywood luminaries.

Hopefully I’ll get this as a gift cause it costs $95, from www.daltonwatson.com, and that is a lot of reindeer feed. zone performance Wear long-ride shorts I like comfort on my bike and you would be hard pressed to find a single athlete out there still wearing cotton underwear, so why should you? Cotton retains moisture and that is a bad thing when you are sitting on a motorcycle all day. Manufactured from a soft, breathable, moisture-wicking material, the shorts are antibacterial and hypo-allergenic. They have a multi-density pad that is positioned for sitting on a motorcycle and more specifically designed to help distribute and relieve pressure and reduce fatigue. Designs for both men and women, they are more comfortable and better-suited for motorcyclists than bicycle shorts and at $44.95 cheaper too! www.zoneperformancewear.com (Continued on next page)

DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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held titan gloves I spied these at a local shop one day and instantly fell in love with what I think could be the toughest glove on the planet.

Held’s Titan Gloves list of features are very impressive. The outer shell is highly abrasion-resistant sweat-resistant and colorfast kangaroo leather. They’re pre-formed with curved palm: no folds or pressure points where your hands grip the bars. It has an adjustable Velcro closure and tunnel strap and a Fingerbridge between ring and little fingers to help preserve those tiny digits.

The knuckle shell is created of Carbon-Aramid-Kohlehybrid covered with titanium, with the thumb bend and side of hand protected by Carbon-Aramid-Kohlehybrid shell as well and backed by Kevlar. The ball of thumb and fingers are protected by highly abrasion-resistant stingray leather as is the side-of-hand. The Titan Gloves have elasticated leather on back, thumb and fingers. And, last but not least that wonderful Held Visor Wiper!

It’s the best $349 Santa could spend on me.

Check out www.heldusa.com to find out more. twisted throttle denali lights These babies are simply awesome and would be a bright idea for Saint Nick to slide a set of them into my Holiday Tank Bag. Easy to install and drawing next to nothing power-wise the Denali LED Lights are perfect for any machine that need more illumination at night or conspicuity during the day.

You can even run multiple sets of these if you want to get really crazy with a good thing.

Okay, I admit I have a set on my GS and my KLR and Shira’s F650 - but if I had another set I could add them to the GS and be the brightest thing in New Jersey, next to the Governor. $299 from www.twistedthrottle.com.

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alt rider skid plate for the bmW r1200gs Yep, I would definitely want to have this bad boy hanging below the engine if I was venturing into the wild. Created from sturdy 4.75 mm anodized aluminum, the AltRider skid plate features a corrugated design that multiplies its strength. The 1 3/8 inch radii flanges mirror the profile of the headers, which creates a unique shape that tightly conforms to the underside of the bike. Available in both black and silver for the odd price of $286.37 from www.altrider.com.

C’mon Santa, ya old bastard - don’t let me down.

Bill’s Bodacious Bag of Booty Joby gorillatorch Here’s an unusually cool LED light unit, that you can literally put anywhere thanks to incredibly flexible legs with magnetic feet.

Two strobe modes also make this a great roadside warning light. The fact that it looks like a Martian machine from War of the Worlds is cool, too. Available at www.Joby.com starting at $29.95 apple macbook air 11” Very small, compact laptop with a solid-state drive that laughs at vibration makes for a great travel computer with minimal bulk and weight and will easily fit in a Holiday Tank Bag! Available at any Apple store starting at $999.

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

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feasting on asphalt, seasons 1 & 2 Alton Brown’s brilliant travel films are a true tribute to touring, motorcycling, and the food that keeps us all going. Alton’s brilliant use of camera and the great personalities he meets along the way are a treat.

This is wonderful stuff, with something for everybody. Available at local bookstores or Amazon.com factory shop manual No matter what you ride, one of the best presents you can give yourself or anybody else is a genuine Factory Shop Manual. Here’s the bible for your particular machine that can show you the right way to do just about everything. rolex submariner date OK, this one’s personal. My Rolex/Tudor is about to turn 30 years old, and I can’t get it factory sealed anymore for diving. This is the ultimate timepiece in that it uses no batteries, is capable of diving to great depths without a whimper and has a big analog face that you can read easily even as your eyesight goes south with age.

Oh and it lasts for, like, 30 years with occasional service. Expensive?

Very. But handmade brilliance usually is.

Mark’s Merry Moto Ideas Wal-mart eyeglass cleaning kit Do not snicker you Grinch... this is by far the most useful thing I want in my holiday tank bag. The WalMart Eyeglass Cleaning Kit is sold in the vision center and comes with a small microfiber cloth that does not scratch, a little screwdriver, and a small bottle of eyeglass cleaner. The liquid in that bottle is one of the best visor de-buggers ever and the cloth is the perfect companion to it. The best part is that once you have the spray bottle, when you get low you can take it to any Wal-Mart optical center in the land for a free refill.

centech fuse block Electricity! Not for the tree but for the plethora of electrical accessories out there. It’s imperative to have one or more electrical sockets into which you can plug. Centech makes a nice, fused electrical distribution box that will allow your gadget-loving motorcyclist to power all his goodies, from heated clothes to that new GPS. gaerne trials boots These boots available from Whitehorse Gear, are to motorcycle boots what a beautifully-oiled glove is to baseball. If you’re an “adventure” person who finds motocross boots too stiff and robotic-looking or just someone who appreciates a great set of leather boots, check out the Gaerne’s. Since trials riders walk the obstacles before riding, trials boots are made for hiking as well as riding and they come with replaceable buckles. With proper care, you’ll resole them multiple times before the leather wears out.

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garmin zumo gps While I love paper maps (and highly recommend them as a gift as well), dealing with one while doing 70 down the slab in the rain in the dark is not an option. By far the most popular for motorcycles is the Garmin Zumo series because they’re watertight and designed to be used with gloves. They’re a great improvement to safety too, since they keep you on the right track with your eyes up instead of looking at my Holiday Tank Bag.

the holiday tank bag itself!

Tank bags. Once you’ve used one, you’ll wonder how you ever went without it. They hold maps and sunglasses and digital cameras and tire pressure gauges and just about any other item you want close at hand. If you’ve ever cleaned the residue of duct tape from a tank on which you’ve taped directions, you’ll know that a nice tank bag with a clear window on top is the solution. There is such a great selection of them out there that you should be able to find happiness for just about any machine.

But, I am hoping that all these goodies come in a brand new tank bag Holiday bows and all!

DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

Shira’s Smashing Sortie on Shopping For everyone on your list - from naughty to nice - here’s something for you.

Near and dear: Whether it’s a trip around the world or an overnight stay at one of our Moto Inn members, they’re sure to appreciate a little vacation. Living in a winter wonderland? Why not pay a visit to the southern hemisphere for some much needed Vitamin D? There’s no better time to head to New Zealand or South Africa then the middle of February. Not so much time?

How’s about Costa Rica. Very affordable, great riding and a little umbrella drink at water’s edge will certainly do you right. Okay, need to stay a little closer to home? Backroads’ Moto Inn members occupy territory from Maine to Florida. I’m sure a gift certificate to any one of them would put a smile on their face.

Here’s a couple of suggestions for international touring, and there are many more out there: Edelweiss Bike Travel, Beach’s Motorcycle Adventures, Ayres Adventures, Greek MotoAdventure, Adriatic MotoTours, Iberian Moto Tours, Highland Rider, Chain Reaction India, South Africa Motorcycle Adventures (SAMA), GoTourNZ, Motos Costa Rica, Pancho Villa Moto Tours and Fred Rau Tours. super Nice: Did someone you know just get a new bike? Do they do a decent amount of riding each year? Give them a reason to smile with a new saddle. Stock seats are, for the

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

most part, unusable. There are quite a few custom and replacement seats on the market that will make their ride (and yours if you happen to be the passenger) soooo much better.

Here’s a start for your search: Sargent Cycle, Mustang Seats, Rick Mayer Saddles and Corbin. really like you: Know someone who REALLLLY wants to learn to ride?

How about someone who’s been at it for quite some time but could use a little brush-up course?

There are a number of riding schools, track days and other speciality courses out there for every level. From the MSF with their Basic BRC, ERC, Scooter or DirtBike courses, Reg Pridmore’s CLASS, Total Control, American Supercamp to RawHyde Adventure Motorcycle Training, here’s something that you give that will keep on giving.

Make it even better and give one to yourself.

The list is extensive, so please do your homework before you take to the classroom.

gotta buy a present: Have someone on your list that you just can’t wrap your mind around? One of those ‘need to buy’ people? Everyone needs underwear.

Exofficio makes some of the best travel undergear I’ve

ever worn. Comfortable, many styles and washes/dries quickly overnight for road trips. As their tag line says, ‘17 countris. 6 weeks. One pair of underwear. Okay, maybe two.’ Splurge and get them a set. Available from Whitehorse Gear.

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if i have to: What says ‘you’re an ass’ more than a container of Anti Monkey Butt Powder. You’ve gotten them something, and hope they just go on their merry way. At least they won’t be a pain in their own ass. Apparently it, too, comes in men’s and women’s.

Also available from Whitehorse Gear.

There you have it. Have a great holiday season, be safe and we’ll see you in 2011.

DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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FIRST RIDE

APRILIA SHIVER 750

We like it when a company takes a good thing and makes it better - even if the improvements are just a tweaking here or a small fairing there.

Such is the case with the 2011 Aprilia Shiver 750.

The original naked machine from Italy was well received and offered a superb mid-sized machine that went head to head with Ducati’s smaller Monster. Both machines were designed by Miguel Galuzzi and it shows.

This time around the colors are a bit sexier and the addition of wave rotors and the small fly-style fairing add to the Italian good looks.

The Shiver is powered by a V2 750 90-degree with four valves per cylinder, liquid cooling and double overhead cams.

Running this smooth power plant is multi-map “ride-by-wire” system that allows for three separate power modes - Sport, Touring and Rain. Operated, somewhat unnaturally, by hitting the starter button, it breezes through the three different power settings. Maximum output in sport-mode is around 95 very excited horses.

The Shiver is carried on a beautifully crafted Trellis frame with a sidemounted shock, which allows more space for the exhaust.

Up front you’ll find a set 43mm upside-down front fork keeping things planted.

The radial-mounted four-piston calipers ride on new “wave” rotors and the stopping power is impressive as the entire system comes with metal braided piping, not rubber. This utilizes a 2-channel Continental ABS system.

On the road the Shiver’s 2 into 1, 3-way catalytic, exhaust has a slightly loud but pleasing tone to it and the upright seating position worked well for us.

The 31.5-inch saddle height allowed for our female tester to feel comfortable enough, but still offered plenty of comfort for taller riders.

Spending a number of days on the backroads of New

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Jersey, New York and Pennsylvania with the Aprilia Shiver 750 was a treat. Once we got used to the switching of the power modes the fun really began. The rainmode was all that - wet. I can’t see why any experienced rider would want to ride around in that; but for a newbie in slippery conditions it might prove helpful. The sport-mode was a tad high strung and surged at certain rpms, which we found slightly annoying.

(Continued on Page 32)

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DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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Still, like Goldilocks, all of us preferred the touring-mode; which offered much smoother delivery and plenty of power.

As the blond one said.... it was just right.

The throaty, but slightly loud, exhaust got a bit of attention as did the sexy looks at many stoplights and running around for a whole day at a time the Shiver proved itself to be a seriously fun machine to ride, whether it be in town traffic or on the sweeping twisties. The more we rode it the more fun the Shiver became.

The small fairing, although looking great, did little in the way of wind protection, but the aftermarket might come up with a solution for that.

The ride-by wire system works extremely well, especially in touring-mode; which seemed to combine the best of the other two.

The gauges show a boodle of information - clock, gear-position, fuel gauge, ambient temperature, fuel consumption average speed, high speed during the ride (not good if a cop is

Aprilia-savvy). All are controlled by an intuitive scroll button. The LED backlight has three brightnesses.

With a claimed dry weight of just 417 pounds the Shiver deftly dives into turns and its strong engine allows for serious acceleration when asked.

The 6-speed transmission was stellar and we never had a missed shift or false neutral.

One thing that concerned us was the smallish fuel tank just 4.2 gallons which kept us searching for gas stations every 150 miles or so; but with a machine like the Shiver 750 we will forgive this.

All in all we found the 2011 Aprilia Shiver 750 to be a competent backroads bomber and an excellent choice for newer or returning riders who don’t want to be overwhelmed by an ultra-powerful machine yet long for the sexiness and style that a great Italian motorcycle brings to the pavement.

With a list price of $8,999 you can have just that!

The Shiver is at your local Aprilia dealer today.

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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

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Motorcycling by the Numbers Arithmetics of Riding the Planet

Numbers have never been my favorite thing. Back in the day, when the sisters at Corpus Christi elementary school would try to slam arithmetic into my brain, it always left me with a glassy stare on my face.

I still have this happen to me on occasion. I do not sit well with boredom.

Still I have been told there is strength in numbers and even I enjoy numbered lists if it is something I am interested in or passionate about.

Take the Big Five.

In South Africa the Big Five is a group of creatures that make up the heart of this part of that continent; Lion, Elephant, Cape Buffalo, Rhino and the elusive Leopard.

Over the years I have come up with the Big Five for Motorcycle Adventure Touring. These would be five extreme destinations or points on the globe that take a serious amount of effort to reach; and reaching all five would take time, money and drive.

You won’t be doing this on any given weekend, but rather years of touring and planning.

In my mind they are North America’s Prudhoe Bay, Alaska - at the top of the Dalton Highway down the North Slope from the Atigun Pass. South America’s Ushuaia, Chile - in southern Patagonia across the straits of Magellan at the bottom of Tierra del Fuego. South Africa’s Cape Agulhas - where the powerful Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet in a violent manner.

New Zealand’s Bluff - located at the bottom of the stunning South Island. And lastly, Norway’s Capo Nord - the furthest north one can ride in Europe.

Over the last decade or so I have been slowly, but surely, getting each of the Big Five under my belt, or helmet if you like.

I have all but Norway and Capo Nord - and that is in the planning stages.

While we were discussing numbered lists the conversation here at Backroads Central turned to all the places we have ridden and explored and which ones really stood out as something to always remember.

After a bit of thinking I have come up with the magic number: “Ten Greatest Places We Have Ever Ridden.”

To put these in an actual order would be an insult to Less them all, as each of these locations had something wondrous about them; so let’s just toss these ten out here; perhaps you, too, have been struck by the beauty of some of these places.

denali park, alaska. Home to our largest mountain, Mount McKinley (aka Denali) the region is as pristine as it comes and each time I have been there I am reminded how much I love it. It is so rugged, real and natural that I always expect to see Ayla, Jondular and the rest of the Cave Bear Clan walking over the rise and into the valley. the european alps. If there was ever a playground for riders it is the Alps. Just as exciting and motorcycle friendly as can be - there is a reason Shira and I have returned to the Alps so many times. In fact you can still join Backroads as we head back to these mountains July 2011.

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DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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plitvice lakes National park, croatia. I had heard of the stunning beauty of this park in Croatia, but we were not prepared for just how stunning it was. The limestone karsk and the deep greens and blues of the hundreds of waterfalls make Plitvice an awe-inspiring place and it is no wonder it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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death valley, Joshua tree and glamis, california.

The Golden State of California is about as diversified as any in the union. Let’s talk about the southern region of the state. Death Valley, Joshua Tree and the mighty sand dunes of Glamis are all within a day or two ride from each other and the combination of striking desert beauty and unearthly feel of these places are not to be missed.

And, to think Baja lies just to the south. morocco, North africa.

Crossing over the straits of Gibraltar and across the border into Morocco was a “StarGate” moment. Literally riding into another more ancient world. The history and people, the Medina of Fez, the square in Marrakech and riding out to the Sahara desert to watch the sunset from high atop a dune with my camel down below was one of the greatest things I have ever experienced.

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

scotland & Wales. We spent a few weeks riding around my family’s homeland and the western coast, the Isle of Skye and the northern region near Durness; took our breath away each time we stopped for a look. Wales too offered some stupendous scenery and these Celtic wonders should not be missed. arenal volcano, costa rica. Probably one the most famous and picture perfect volcanos in the world Arenal, surrounded

by Costa Rican rain forest, is a spectacular sight, especially at night when you can see the lava ex-

ploding from the top and running down the sides. The nearby hot springs of Tabacon offer some warm water fun as well, but the sheer presence of such an Earthly force can’t be denied and watching it from the porch of our room is something I will never forget. brazil. This country is immense and we really didn’t get to cover nearly as much as we would like to. But, the time we did spend riding on the coast and then to Christ the Redeemer statue, seeing Rio below was truly a treat.

Then heading into the Minas Gerais area and its moun-

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tains to the west was stupendous. The greatest storm I have ever seen while riding happened here - and neither Shira nor I will ever forget this powerful display of Mother Nature! grand canyon, arizona. I remember the first time I saw the canyon and wondered what the first Europeans thought when they got to the edge. Truly one of the great natural wonders in our nation it is worth every effort to see it. Although I have seen the Grand Canyon a few times the best time was on

DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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a BMW R1200GSA intro where we rode through Native land down to the bottom of the canyon, had lunch beside the Colorado River and then rode to the rim before flying out at sunset back to Sedona where we started that day’s ride. One of the greatest days of riding in my life. torres del paine, chile. Riding south through Patagonia for three weeks can be exciting all by itself. Doing it two up on a BMW R1200GS can make it even more so. In the midst of all the ruggedness that is the Andes along Ruta 40 and then the multiple border crossings in and out of Chile and Argentina we spent a few days around Torres Del Paine, one of Chile’s most famous National Parks. Here we had it all - jumping Guanaco (crazed semi-llamas), deep ancient Giant Sloth caves, pounding rains, driving winds and snowstorms. Mixed into all this off-road adventure was one of the most wondrous places I have ever seen on the planet. Torres Del Paine is everything the Earth should be. Wild, dazzling and beautiful!

I’ll add one more to this list of ten... home. As great as it is to ride to these faraway places it is also just as nice to return home up the drive of Backroads Central. Unpack, make friends once again with the cats LG and Morgan, and slip into the hot tub or Monkey With A Gun - with another sojourn safely completed.

That just scratches the surface. This list of mine could go on but for space in this magazine. I am sure you might have your own list and I am equally sure there are places I have not discovered or ridden. But, we’re still young and the road doth beckon. Now get out there and create your own lists.

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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

CYCLE SIDEBAR

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RAINMEN Tim Wineland

“Good gracious alive! Come here an’ look out the win-der. What is it, ya think, under all that stuff? Looks like some sorta fancy little wagon pushin’ a right big motor-sickle.”

“A motor-sickle? In this weather? Aint no fool gonna be ridin’ a motorsickle in that cyclone. That’s a frog drowner out there, in case you aint noticed.”

“Nobody said you had to be smart to ride a motor-sickle. Heck, Fatback rides one and his porch light’s been out fer years.”

“Maybe, but even he’s got sense ‘nuf not to go ridin’ ‘round while lightnin’ bolts be a-blazin’ like Satan shootin’ pool. Look it! Part of the stuff is gittin’ off and wadin’ this way. Ten dollar sez he aint from ‘round here.”

“Excuse me gentlemen, but could either of you be so kind as to activate your delightfully anachronistic gasoline pumps? It appears your establishment is equipped with quaint, old fashioned mechanically operated petroleum dispensing devices. Oh, and just look at that original pot-bellied stove!

Is that a real wood fire? I do so love antiques. I hate to impose, but may I take a digi-graph of you and your fellow Appalachian?”

“Knock yer seff out, mister. Can I getcha a bucket to stand in, too? Wouldn’t want ya to lose any of that there water yer carryin’ ‘round in yer boots.”

“Ah! Yes, indeed. It is a bit precipitous out. However, as you may have surmised, I am on a motorcycling excursion of sorts – ‘roughing it’ in the colloquial parlance, I believe – and one must expect the occasional inclimate weather and persevere nonetheless, don’t you agree?”

“Uh, huh. I gotcha on number two there.

Just come on back in when yer done and we’ll settle up.”

“Oh! But of course – I pay after I pump!

This is really quite a thrill. The esteemed members of my motorcycle association will hardly believe this tale. Here’s our card, by the way – ‘The Ambient Adventurers’. You’ll pardon the dampness, but my rain apparel seems to have developed a slight leak.”

“I’d say your rain ape-arel is missin’ a leg.”

“Indeed. Shoddy workmanship, no doubt. Seems to have melted just outside there, as I pondered the conundrum of the pumps. I hardly suspected motorcycle exhaust pipes could remain at such searing temperatures in this chilling torrent. Very well then, I shall return in a flash.”

“In a flash o’ lightnin’ maybe. What’d he call them pumps?”

“Dang if I know. That boy’s timin’ belt is off, iffen ya ask me. You seed that space helmet he was wearin’? Didn’t even take it off to talk. The jaw bone just swung up outa the way. Felt like I was talkin’ to Dark Tater his seff.

I wonder if Fatback’s got one a those.”

“I seed what looked like a miker-phone in there, too. Who ya ‘spose he talks to on that thang? Shore aint the Weather Channel.”

“Hah! Look at ‘im now! He’s done gone and melted his other britches leg off! I tell ya, this boy’s under-drawers aint the only thang whats all wet.”

“Maybe we orta loan ‘im an umbreller. Rate he’s goin’, he’ll be plum nekkid by dinner.”

“Well, gentlemen, I am quite chagrined. It appears that my paper currency has suffered the same misfortune as the other perishable items in my dreadfully sodden lambskin wallet. I don’t suppose you are equipped to process an online debit transaction within this rustic establishment?”

“Shore thang, mister. The swiper’s right cheer by the pigs feet. Say, not that it’s any of my bizness, but how come a well-to-do feller like yer seff is a-sportin’ rain garb made outa yesti-dees newspaper anyways?”

“Excellent observation, my esteemed entrepreneur. I must admit, it is quite a humorous anecdote. It seems that in my haste to depart on this valiant adventure, I neglected to include my exquisite, and here-to-fore unused, Goretex lined rain suit. Unfortunately, the only clothier I could find in this rural locale and in such immediate meteorological need was something called a ‘Nell’s Nearly New’. Not much of an assortment of outer wears to speak of, but they did exhibit several varieties and colors of these semi-transparent

plastic suits. By the way, would those be PICKLED pigs feet?”

“Yep. Right tasty, too. Let me fetch one fer ya. So whatcha got in all them fancy suit cases and that there minivan yer a-totin’ behind?”

“No doubt you are referring to my voluminous hard-shell flank and aft stowage compartments, accessorized by the rudimentary yet spacious towbehind traveling domicile. Of course, there is also the well-provisioned aerodynamic fairing containing a variety of essential paraphernalia. Well sirs, as I alluded to earlier, I am endeavoring to experience a more Thoreauvian perspective of this magnificent country by negotiating the rather intrinsic avenues of these many placid and bucolic Appalachian environs.”

“Uh, huh. So ya need all that stuff just to go campin’?”

“My good man, all of these carefully selected and, if might I say, not inexpensive accouterments are the latest state-of-the-art necessities for duelwheeled motoring and recreational bio-lodging. All the well-appointed sojourners of my exclusive motorcycling association are thus equipped. In fact, I hope to see many of them passing this way momentarily. It seems I have gotten somewhat separated from the’ pod’, so to speak, what with all this murkiness.”

“Uh, huh. So how long ya been lost?”

“Lost? Oh, quite the contrary, my dear man. It is virtually impossible to get lost when one is navigating even the most foreign topography utilizing such advanced orienteering technologies as is at my disposal.

Speaking of which, you wouldn’t by chance have a GPS device I could purchase? Mine does not appear to be as waterproof as I was led to believe.”

“Well, sir…I reckon the ‘cheep-i-est’ device we got here’s a-hangin’ on the wall of the men’s room. It only takes a couple quarters.

But yer welcome to study the Rand McNally I got taped up to the counter over yonder.”

“A vintage paper map? How marvelous! I remember my father referring on occasion to those ancient and trusted parchments while on our annual family hiatus. I also recall how vociferous and distraught he would become while attempting to return the miscreant reference material to its original accordion-fold nature. Indeed, my therapist postulates that due to my early adolescent exposure to such trauma, I as yet harbor an innate fear of all such uncontrollable items and circumstances.”

“Skeered of storms, huh?”

“Precisely.”

“Uh, huh. Well sir, I reckon we all been wet an’ lost an’ skeered at some time ‘er nuther. Can’t say as I ever been all three at once, though. But yer welcome to pull yer scooter up unner the awning there an hole up here with us ‘til she blows over.”

“I duly appreciate your magnanimous offer, my good man. You and your compatriot have been more than equitable, considering I am but a seemingly despondent transient. I want to thank you for your most gracious hospitality and charming social intercourse; however it seems I am suddenly feeling quite invigorated and adventurous! As unconventional as this may sound, it so happens our amiable discourse has aroused the somewhat latent but still resolute voyageur within me.”

“You sure it weren’t the pigs’ feet? They ‘roused somethin’ in me jest the other night.”

“Indeed, from this moment hence, I shall seek to suppress my inherently cautious nature and dissuade any preemptive thoughts to the contrary! Impromptu adventure and serendipitous happenstance shall be my new mantra!

I shall flourish by the words of that intrepid traveler Jack Kerouac, who opined, ‘Maybe that’s what life is: a wink of the eye and the winking of the stars.’ Au revoir, mon companions!”

“Well, thar he goes. Sakes alive, I aint seen that much stuff on wheels since we hepped move Fatback’s double-wide out to his mamma’s place.

What in tar-nation was he goin’ on about, old pines and stars and some kinda river?”

“Heck if I know. But you owe me ten bucks.”

DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

Crossroads Mayhem I went down to the crossroads, fell down on my knees.

I went down to the crossroads, fell down on my knees.

Asked the Lord above for mercy, “Save me if you please.”

- Robert Johnson One of the points of this monthly column is to instill in you, the reader, that you must be honest with yourself when it come to judging and analyzing how you ride your motorcycle and when you make an error.

We all do; but if you don’t go over it after the fact then it’s a wasted opportunity.

Just recently, in the space of a couple of days, I had a few near misses that could have been avoided and they all involved crossroads.

We were up in New York State riding through the Finger Lakes region. I had been on tour for the past week and had put on many miles up to that point.

Along the way a pesky shoulder problem resurfaced and I was trying to “muscle” through the pain and to convince myself I was still having a great time.

Coming down a hill near Keuka Lake I came upon a stop sign. Shira was right behind me and I looked both ways and then made a left turn, slowing to look at an odd sign on the side of the road.

Immediately Shira scream on the radio to “GUN IT!!!” I immediately twisted the throttle but a pick-up truck was still right on my ass.

Even though I checked the road this guy was moving at a high rate of speed and cleared the crest on my right immediately after I started to make my left, basically coming out of nowhere.

But, isn’t that where trouble always comes from?

Now it was just a simple left; but when I slowed down a bit to see an interesting sign on the road I changed the equation. I should have ignored this sign and accelerated down the road.

I should have been on my game.

As it was - the truck barely missed me and he was more than upset when he finally did pass me, even if he was driving far greater than the posted limit.

I really couldn’t blame him.

But this weekend other things happened as well.

The next day I came upon a 4-way stop. A woman pulled up to my left at the same time and a second later we both assumed we had the right of way and went to motor through the intersection at the same time.

We both had to quickly stop to avoid a collision and she gave me an angry look and stomped on the pedal. Sorry, I still think the motorcyclist should get

the benefit of the doubt when it comes to this sort of thing. But many really don’t care. Even after eye contact she accelerated through the intersection.

Just a few minutes later I slowed through a green light to see if our small group would make the light when it suddenly changed to red. I proceeded through it but technically it could be said that I ran this light. Nobody was coming but slowing down to see if my ducklings were behind me put me in a No-Man Zone and this is a place we should quickly get through every time.

I think the bottom line here is that we have to be diligent when riding through intersections, crossroads and lights.

Just as we must pass with authority and then keep up the speed, rather than pass and slow down. How many times has this happened when riding with others? They make a pass and then slow to the speed of the car they just passed, leaving you no room for you and your machine.

It’s frustrating and should be avoided.

A little bit more aggressiveness works far better than simply tooling along reading street signs.

So this month’s message it to stay alert and stay in a slight aggressive mode when riding.

Don’t take for granted that the driver in the car or truck sees you and is going to give you a bit of slack. Cause the truth is they might not see you at all or simply not give a crap.

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

But while the Yemeni government has shown some concern over alQaida’s presence in the country, this is a relatively recent development seen by many as a ploy to please the United States.

doiNg the right thiNg The North Jersey Riders Motorcycle Club presented a check in the amount of $5,000 to the Make-A-Wish Foundation of New Jersey at their monthly meeting on Wednesday October 6, 2010 at Attillio’s Restaurant in Dover, NJ. The club was also celebrating their 20th anniversary.

Since its inception the North Jersey Riders have presented over $60,000 to the Make-A-Foundation of New Jersey.

federal actioN to alloW more ethaNol iN gasoliNe could damage motorcycles The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has agreed to allow the ethanol portion of blended gasoline to be increased from the current 10 percent to 15 percent for certain vehicles, which could pose a danger for motorcycles, the AMA reports.

On Oct. 13, the EPA announced approval of a waiver for E15. Under the decision, E15 is now approved for use in model year 2007 and newer cars and light trucks. It isn’t approved for use in any other gasoline-fueled engines.

The EPA said a decision on the use of E15 in model year 2001 to 2006 vehicles will be made after new test results are received. The EPA is also proposing E15 pump labeling requirements so that consumers don’t mistakenly put E15 in the wrong vehicles.

Bob Greco, spokesman for the American Petroleum Institute, told The Wall Street Journal that by approving E15 without full testing, the EPA is putting “politics before science.”

“You’re going to have fuels in the marketplace that could damage engines and void warranties,” Greco told the newspaper.

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The announcement comes as President Barack Obama prepared to travel to India on a state visit focused on trade and business opportunities between the two countries.

To date, Harley-Davidson India has been importing completely assembled motorcycles from the Company’s U.S. final assembly plants. Once the Indian CKD assembly facility in the Indian State of Haryana is operational, Harley-Davidson India will import CKD kits for select current models, consisting of components produced by Harley-Davidson’s U.S. plants in Wisconsin, Pennsylvania and Missouri and by the company’s suppliers. Indian employees at the Haryana facility will then assemble the components into finished motorcycles. Other models will continue to be imported as completely built motorcycles for now.

India will be the second country in which Harley-Davidson has CKD assembly operations outside the U.S., after Brazil where the Company began assembly operations in 1999.

msf iNtroduces “dr. Jim’s QuestioN of the day” tWeets challeNge riders oN their critical thiNkiNg The Motorcycle Safety Foundation is using Twitter and the Web to spark critical thinking among riders everywhere.

Dr. James Heideman, MSF’s director of licensing, will be challenging Twitter followers and site visitors with “Dr. Jim’s Question of the Day,” putting riders’ minds to work on a variety of life-saving practices.

Tweets and web postings on www.msfusa.org will cover a wide range of subjects for both new and experienced riders, from pre-ride checklists to recognizing and dealing with dangerous traffic situations. Heideman also will guide riders to a variety of resources to help them learn more about all aspects of motorcycling and become lifelong learners.

h-d aNNouNces ckd assembly operatioNs iN iNdia HD is moving forward with the launch of operations in India to assemble motorcycles for the Indian market from component kits supplied by its U.S. plants. The Company expects the CKD (complete knock-down) assembly facility to be operational in the first half of 2011.

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Page 40

DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

HOLIDAY GIFT IDEAS RKA IN-CHARGE COMMUNICATIONS TANKBAG 14 LITER PINE FLAT As newer machines are rolled off the line these days they become more efficient and lighter. They have also become more space-confining, with nooks and crannies to mount things like communications and sound systems at a premium or non-existent.

Recently when we took possession of a new F650GS for Shira I went to install her old Autocomm, which was tucked into her old R1150R. With older machines you could always find some little area that you could slide gizmos into, but with the F650GS there was very little in the way of open real estate under the tank or saddle.

We turned to our friends Rich and Kathy Battles, who own and operate RKA Luggage in Windsor, California. I have been using their bags for years and I knew they had a new design that was created especially for dual sport and adventure touring machines - like the BMW F650GS - The Pine Flat.

In addition they have a line called IN-Charge that runs 12-volt power right into the bag and an inner velcroed compartment that can easily hold even the big Autcomm units.

The new version of these bags, as the Battles are always thinking of ways to improve their line-up, has - in addition to a front pocket - two new side pockets for even more storage. I have an old-style Pine Flat without the side pockets and another RKA Tankbag with them and they are incredibly useful in carrying all sorts of things.

The Pine Flat mounts at four different points and installation on the F650GS took all of five minutes.

I then ran a power line from a fuse block I had already installed and using

SAE connector put power to the bag. I then carefully installed the communications system into the compartment and connected it to the SAE lead. You have to be careful to remember when installing this that it is easy to get them reversed. If whatever you are hooking up doesn’t work, don’t dismay, just reverse the leads and see if you got turned around somewhere. Easy.

With all the wiring neatly and correctly done we had bike-to-bike communications in a safe and removable tankbag.

Even with the system installed the bag, which is expandable if more space is needed, had ample room left in the main part of the Pine Flat to hold all sorts of stuff.

In addition to being a great bag the InCharge Bag also doubles as a mount for your GPS or radar detector using a sturdy and very steady Track Plate that easily accepted our Zumo 660. It sits atop the bag and allows for easy access and great visibility.

Super idea and well executed.

If you have need of a place to stash your communication system or any powered farkle for that matter then look at RKA’s IN-Charge series of tankbags.

Our 14-Liter Pine Flat Tankbag listed for $325 and they have luggage for all machines and your specific needs. Check out their website at www.rkaluggage.com for specifics.

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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

Page 41

HOLIDAY GIFT IDEAS THREE BOOKS WE WANT UNDER THE TREE Now that winter is here we know we want some quality reading at backroads central to wait out old man Winter and maybe learn a bit about our riding as well.

We’re hoping that you were not too bad this year and the fat man in the red suit will drop off a few good books for all of us to pass the time. here are three we’d like to see under the tree.

The Upper Half of the Motorcycle by Bernt Spiegelman Originally written in German and translated by Meredith Hasall this book considers and explains how our brains really work and how we are, not only able to ride motorcycles, but how some do it so well.

Spiegel was the Director of the Institute of Industrial and Social Psychology at the University of Göttingen, Germany in the 1960’s and an avid rider. As such this book can get very deep but is well worth reading as it really goes into the bond between the rider and the machine.

Divided into 5 parts, including “It’s a Miracle That Motorcycling Works at All”; “Mind and Gut”; “The Question of Karl V”; “What’s Left for the Head to Do?” and Objectives: Give Them a Try”, with many subsections and side bars. This is not light reading and might take some time to get through the 174 pages of deep knowledge, but it is well worth the effort.

You can find The Upper Half of the Motorcycle at www.whitehorsepress.com for $29.95.

The Devil Can Ride edited by Lee Klancher How about a book that featres a collection of some of the greatest moto-journalists and authors on the planet? Authors such as Hunter Thompson, Robert Pirsig, and Mark Singer have written about the motorcycle, that icon for outlaws, rebels, thieves, and beat poets. This collection of motorcycle tales features the best of the vast collection of motorcycle writing created since old Gottlieb Daimler first bolted a crude internal-combustion engine to his wooden two-wheeled Einspur in 1876. In addition to essays from Thompson and Pirsig, The Devil Can Ride features works by Peter Egan, T.E. Lawrence, James Stevenson, Jamie Elvidge, John Hall, and Kevin Cameron.

This is a seriously fun book, full of everything motorcycle, and a must have for this winter. 26 bucks at www.motorbooks.com.

The Ride So Far - Tales from a Motorcycling Life by Lance Oliver We have known Lance for years and he has written for us many a time so we were really looking forward to his book and were not disappointed.

All of us have great stories and wild tales and interesting anecdotes on our riding careers, but Lance was able to put so many of his in an enjoyable and well-done style.

Full of short individual chapters, each with it’s own story, this is one of those great books that you can read for a while, go for a ride and then come back to the next chapter, fresh and new. Stories like “The Corkscrew” dealing with the infamous turn at Laguna Seca Raceway. Or, Blind Date in Vermont where he brings the fun MotoGiro to life.

Take your time and enjoy The Ride So Far - it seems Lance is.

You will find this at www.whitehorsepress.com as well for $24.95

DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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You can see her offerings online at http://theeleatherlady.squarespace.com. She also has two locations in Florida: 11565-226 North Main St, Jacksonville open Mon-Sat and Pecan Park Flea Market open Sat and Sun. She can be reached at 904-757-4151.

COCONUT SOCKS GEN 3 These ‘new and improved’ Generation 3 knee-high motorcycle socks, utilizing “advanced natural technology”, offer optimum comfort, odor control, durability, antimicrobial, moisture management and eco-friendliness.

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These socks are ideal for motorcycling as well as for a range of activities beyond motorcycling to include hiking, long jaunts of trekking, jogging, backpacking, camping, at the gym, almost anywhere the Most Awesome Socks on the Planet are needed! We use them both on and off the bike!

Log onto www.roadgear.com to order yours at $19.95 a pair. Availalabe in no-show, ankle, crew and tall.

BREEZY, COOL PROTECTION • ROADGEAR CARBONMAXX GLOVES Now that the seasons have rolled on, I am prepared to tell you What I Did Last Summer. Or rather, I’m prepared to tell you something I discovered last summer that I’m quite happy about, and therefore feel compelled to share. As you well know, riding motorcycles and dressing properly faces many conundrums; one of the biggest being the summer heat conflicts with keeping you protected due to the nature of offering sufficient coverage of your delicate skin and yet letting your own personal liquid-cooled a/c do its thing. While textiles do a wonderful job at wicking away moisture and keeping you cool (and offering good protection), there’s a reason why leather has been around so long and is still the choice of the world’s elite roadracers: nothing moves air, yet protects, like perforated leather. I believe this, and I’m standing by it.

Therefore, it will come to no surprise to you that the Roadgear CarbonMaxx gloves I scored this summer are, in fact, primarily composed of lovely perforated leather. They also have a very substantial carbon fiber panel that protects the knuckles (and looks awesome) and a seriously generous amount of padding over impact areas and delicate digits. There is double stitching, some accordion panels for flexibility and some seriously clever tailoring to allow excellent freedom of movement. As I am in possession of a Bachelor Of Science in Biology from the University of Texas at Austin (no really. The parchment is in my office, somewhere), I can state with arrogant, misplaced authority that there are somewhere between two and twenty billion individual bones in the hand and wrist. These gloves do an impressive job at providing protection for quite a few of them. There is such complex workmanship in these things that they are wondrous to examine, and I have to admit I didn’t do so until I’d been using them for a few months. All I knew is they felt substantial, were comfortable once broken in (my knuckles and the carbon fiber had to get to know one another) and they moved a superb amount of air when it was hot, humid and clammy out. They are now my go-to summer gloves, and now that it’s cold I wear them around the house when I’m feeling all Road Warrior-y.

The restraint system is a simple hook and loop (might even be Velcro, not sure) strap, and it works well at keeping the gloves in place. These are non-gauntlet style gloves so they slide underneath the sleeves of your jacket, which is unusual in my stable but perfectly OK. Bottom line: These are some of the best summer gloves I’ve ever owned, and I recommend them highly especially at the price. They keep your precious digits cool and protected, and are comfortable and very well made. The Roadgear CarbonMaxx gloves come in sizes XS-XXXL and cost $69.90. www.roadgear.com - Bill Heald

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

Page 43

HOLIDAY GIFT IDEAS MUSTANG’S FULL LINE OF COMFORT FOR HONDA VT1300 Mustang has introduced a full line of seats for the 2010-11 Honda VT1300 Interstate, Sabre and Stateline models.

The deeply pocketed driver seat on the one-piece Wide Vintage Touring style with Driver Backrest is a full 16” wide and sits you at the ideal cruising angle. The 10.5” wide passenger seat utilizes Mustang’s unique internal steel support wings. The optional driver backrest provides superb back support for those longer rides and is fully adjustable and easily removable. The Wide Vintage Touring seat with Driver Backrest sells for $669; if you prefer chrome studs and leather-tied conchos, opt for Mustang’s Wide Studded Touring Seat with Driver Backrest at $699.

Mustang’s Wide Touring styles without a built-in backrest are designed so that the driver’s back is well supported by the nose of the passenger seat that extends forward. Choose from Mustang’s one-piece Wide Vintage Touring seat for $469 or the Wide Studded Touring style for $499. For a totally different low, lean look, check out Mustang’s DayTripper seat for only $359. For more info, visit MustangSeats.com or call 800-243-1392.

CHECK’S MOTORCYCLE SEAT HEATER A new line of motorcycle seat heater kits has been developed by the engineers at Check Corporation to extend the riding season for today’s motorcyclists.

Check’s Motorcycle Seat Heater System features a durable, wire-based heater element and an electronic controller that maintains the system’s two temperature settings for continuous comfort. The high-quality kits, which are based on the manufacturer’s experience as an OEM motorcycle seat heater supplier, are available in a single or dual seat set up to fit a wide range of motorcycles. Check’s systems have a thin peel-and-stick heating element that allows them to discretely mount under the seat’s upholstery, and a newly designed integrated bezel switch also easily installs in the motorcycle for a polished look.

“Our long-lasting seat heater systems feature waterproof components that help provide comfort to riders year round,” said Brian Champa, sales manager, Check Corporation. “They are specifically designed to add warmth to motorcycles while maintaining a low amp draw. The single kit draws just 1.2 amps while our dual seat kit draws around 2 amps.”

In addition to the wire-based seat heater kits, Check has created an advanced system that features an ultra thin carbon polymer mat designed for single-seat motorcycles. Based on positive thermal coefficient (PTC) technology, the heater element is placed on the motorcycle seat and covered with a 1/2inch thick upholstery foam. As the heater element gets hotter, the power draw is reduced so the system will hold its maximum temperature at reduced power consumption.

Check Motorcycle Seat Heater Systems come complete with all necessary components and wiring and are backed by a one-year warranty. Professional installation is recommended. Single seat heaters start at $95 and dual seat at $189. To add a seat heater kit to your motorcycle or learn how you can become a dealer, call a Check representative at 800.927.6787.

HONDA CBR250R: AN AFFORDABLE ENTRY INTO THE SPORT OF MOTORCYCLING The all-new 2011 CBR250R brings a fresh take on the fun side of motorcycling, one that especially suits riders entering the sport. Thanks to its extremely efficient 249cc liquid-cooled single cylinder engine-an all-new design featuring a sophisticated fourvalve DOHC cylinder head, engine counterbalancer, and fuel injection-this dependable and lightweight machine delivers nimble handling, a broad spread of easily accessible power and low operating costs all in one. Whether the day calls for a commute to work, quick trips around town or all-day explorations in the countryside, the CBR250R is a great way to get acquainted with the many faces of motorcycling, all at an affordable price. Available in Metallic Black and Red/Silver beginning in Spring 2011. Also available with ABS.

PROLONG WATERLESS WASH AND SHINE PERFECT FOR THE MOTORCYCLIST ON THE GO A new product for motorcyclists allows them to spend more time riding and less time cleaning their bikes.

Prolong Super Lubricants’ Waterless Wash & Shine is an advanced instant detailer that restores the great look of motorcycles with no need for hosing down the bike. Simply spray the product on the motorcycle’s paint, chrome, plastic trim, painted plastic, wheel rims, and headlamp covers and wipe with a terry cloth towel to leave a just-waxed shine and smoothness.

Prolong’s Waterless Wash & Shine is safe for conventional and clear-coated paints and can be applied in the sun or shade. In addition to cleaning, the product leaves a protective film that isn’t attracted to water and doesn’t rinse off. Prolong Waterless Wash & Shine’s 17ounce bottle with trigger spray enables motorcyclists to take the detailer with them and give their bikes a quick cleaning once they get to their destination. For more information, visit www.prolong.com

DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 44

UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR

What’s Happening

E V E RY M O N T H - W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G

AUGUST 2011

Every Sunday • Eastern Suffolk ABATE Breakfast Run. Crossroads Diner - Calverton NY. 10:30am. Eat and Ride After • 631-369-2221

8-12 • Concours Owners Group National Rally. Green Mountains at Mount Snow, VT. Rally fee includes buffet dinner. Discount for COG members. For more information please visit www.cog-online.org • 978-394-2591

First Sunday of the month • Layton Meet at the Layton Deli, corner of Dingmans/Bevans Rd, CR 560, Layton, NJ. Meet around 8am – breakfast available. Join others for a ride or head out on your own

GET YOUR HOLIDAY PHOTOS WITH SANTA

Every Tuesday • The Ear - Spring St, NYC. Come meet some fellow riders and do some benchracing or whatever. 8pm-ish

December 10 • Liberty H-D, 12 W. Milton Ave, Rahway, NJ (732) 381-2400

Third Tuesday • 7:30pm ABATE of the Garden State, North Jersey chapter. Black River Barn, 1178 Rt. 10 West, Randolph, NJ. 7:30pm. New members and all mc brands welcome. Help fight for rights as a motorcyclist in NJ! Alex Martinez 973-390-1918

December 11 • Harley-Davidson Long Branch, 671 Broadway, Long Branch, NJ

DECEMBER 2010

December 11 • Highroads H-D, 211 Woodbridge Ave, Highland Park, NY (732) 985-7546 December 11 • Bergen County H-D, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ (201) 843-6930 December 12 • O’Toole’s H-D, 4 Sullivan St, Wurtsboro, NY (845) 888-2426 December 18 • Bergen County H-D, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ (201) 843-6930

5 • O’Toole’s Harley-Davidson and Wurtsboro HOG Annual Toy Run to benefit Sullivan County Head Start Program. Meet at 9am - Ride at 11am. 4 Sullivan St, Wurtsboro, NY 845-888-2426 • www.otooleshd.com 11 • Rolling Thunder Annual Holiday Party. Food, fun, door prizes, bike show and more.

220 Front St, Hempstead, NY • 516-489-0770

JANUARY 2011 7-9 • 34th North American International Motorcycle SuperShow. Toronto International Centre, Ontario, Canada. Over 500 exhibitors and 1,000 motorcycles on display in7 giant halls. A true shopping extravaganza and unveiling of 2011 new motorcycles. 3 Days of ‘Everything in Motorcycling’ including touring, cruisers, racing, performance bikes, vintage, classics and custom bike showcase. Live bands, fashion shows, special guests and club/assocation displays. on-site restaurants and Beer Garden. For full information visit www.supershowevents.com 14-16 • Progressive International Motorcycle Show at Washington, DC • www.motorcycleshows.com 21-23 • Progressive International Motorcycle Show at Javits Center, New York, NY • www.motorcycleshows.com

FEBRUARY 2011 19-20 • 93rd running of the Crotona Midnight Run. Longest continuously run motorcycle event in the USA. Competitive road run with an average speed of 30mph. All qualified finishers receive medallion with trophies for 1, 2, and 3 place in expert and novice class. $20/bike. Sign in: Sat, Feb. 19 10:30pm • Key Time: Midnight. Nathan/Kolh Parking Lot, Central Park Ave, Yonkers, NY • 201-286-9346 • www.ramapomc.org

MAY 2011 19-22 • 13th Annual BACKROADS’ Spring Break. This year we’ll be heading to the Finger Lakes - Canandaigua, to be specific. We’ll spend three nights at the Inn on the Lake Resort while enjoying the leisurely riding, beautiful scenery, gorgeous gorges and comradery. Limited rooms, as always, so book yours today. Special rates apply, so ask for the Backroads Group when booking • www.theinnonthelake.com • 800-228-2801 19-22 • Concours Owners Group Spring Fling Northeast Area Rally. Penn Wells Lodge, Wellsboro, PA. Nearby camping also available. Saturday buffet dinner included in rally fee.

Detauks abd fee information online www.cog-online.org • 978-394-2591

JULY 2011 17-24 • Head off with Backroads’ publishers Brian & Shira for a tour of a lifetime as we join up with Edelweiss for their High Alpine Tour. Ride the roads you have dreamed of in the past - Paso Del Stelvio, the Grossglockner, the famed Dolomites. We’ll even have a day’s ride to Venice. For all the information you’ll need to book this great trip, please email Doris at Edelweiss Travel: doris.waldegger@edelweissbike.com

2010-2011 POLAR BEAR SCHEDULE 12/5/10 • MONTGOMERYVILLE CYCLE CENTER, 2901 Bethlehem Pike, Hatfield, PA • 215-712-7433 12/12/10 • THE CABIN, 984 Route 33, Howell, NJ • 732-462-3090 12/19/10 • SCHOCH'S HARLEY-DAVIDSON, Route 33, Snydersville, PA • 570-9927500 1/9/11 • DETHOMASI'S EAST 5 POINTS INN, Vineland, NJ • 856-691-6080 1/16/11 • WEARHOUSE GRILL, 161 Route 181, Hopatcong, NJ • 973-663-2222 1/23/11 • SIR JOHN'S, 230 Washington Place, North Brunswick Twp, NJ • 732-2973803 1/30/11 • DADDY O REST, 4401 Long Beach Blvd, Brant Beach, NJ • 609-494-1300 2/6/11 • THE EXCHANGE, 160 E. Main St, Rockaway, NJ • 973-627-8488 2/13/11 • PIC-A-LILLI INN, 866 Route 206, Shamong, NJ • 609-268-2066 2/20/11 • LANDSLIDE SALOON, 1090 Route 173, Pattenburg, NJ • 908-735-6919 2/27/11 • HOOTERS, 25 Route 23 South, Wayne, NJ • 973-837-1876 3/6/11 • BAHRS LANDING, 2 Bay Ave, Highlands, NJ • 732-872-1245 3/13/11 • FIREHOUSE EATERY, 455 Saint Georges Ave, Rahway, NJ • 732-382-9500 3/20/11 • LONG VALLEY PUB & BREWERY, 1 Fairmount Rd, Long Valley, NJ • 908876-1122 3/27/11 • THE CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN, 1 Route 15 South, Augusta, NJ • 973-3002300 4/3/11 • BRIAN'S HARLEY-DAVIDSON, 600 S. Flowers Rd, Langhorne, PA • 215-7529400 4/10/11 • FLYING CLOUD CAFE, 800 New Hampshire Ave, Atlantic City, NJ • 609348-8222 4/17/11 • CAPE MAY VFW POST#386, 419 Congress St, Cape May, NJ • 609-8847961 4/30/11 • POLAR BEAR DINNER, Knights of Columbus, Pine St, Old Bridge, NJ • 908251-9817. You must have tickets to attend.

To check on Polar Bear Cancellations & Updates call 908-722-0128

Motorcycle Touring Bible arrives on shelves in December.

You can pre-order your copy today at 25% off retail price.

Log onto www.motorbooks.com and use this code (MC10) when checking out

NEW TOUR!

NEW ZEALAND NEW ONLINE MAGAZINE!

January 10-23, 2011

Fred Rau Motorcycling

with Dave Edwards

for the touring and sport-touring rider

Prices from $6,000

www.FredRauMotorcycling.com

www.fredrau.com

(former Cycle World editor)

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

Page 45

Motorcycle Marketplace

All That Good Stuff

MOTORCYCLE TRAILERS

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HELMET-HOLDER.COM Treat Your Helmet Like a Work of Art Keith A. Hyche, Attorney At Law Chapter 7 Bankruptcy $1,250 including filing fees* Many other legal services are offered, please call.

Free 1/2 hour initial consultation.

It’s time to get your upcoming events in for the 2011 season. The sooner we have them, the more people will see them. Listings are Free and run until event date. print form from website and send ‘em in:

www.keithhyche.com • 973-300-0161 61 High St. Newton, NJ 07860 • khyche@mindspring.com We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the Bankruptcy Code.

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MAGAZINE SUBSCRIPTION GIFT CERTIFICATES AVAILABLE • MAKES A GREAT STOCKING STUFFER * * ORDER TODAY FOR HOLIDAY DELIVERY * * Get BACKROADS delivered to your home EVERY MONTH! Just fill out the simple form and mail it along with payment (gotta pay the Postman): BACKROADS • POB 317 • BRANCHVILLE NJ 07826 First Class Postage $40/12 issues/in a protective envelope • We accept checks, Visa, MasterCard or Discover.

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DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 46

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE

NEW LOCATION Long Island’s Premiere Motorcycle Outfitters Motorcycle Parts Accessories • Apparel Brand names you know and trust from a dealer that you can count on for EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SERVICE.

Ready Riders, LLC 15 East Deer Park Road, Dix Hills, NY Across from Dix Hills Diner

631-262-0600 • www.readyriders.com

WWW.MICATECH.NET • 1.888.464.6494 Premium Aluminum Luggage Handbuilt in the USA

Micatech V2 Cases!

Exceptional Quality and Outstanding Customer Service Now Available for: BMW F800/650GS Twin BMW G650/F650GS Single R1150GS/R1150GSA R1200GS/R1200GSA Suzuki V-Strom 650/1000 Kawasaki KLR 650 + Triumph Tiger We Make a Strong Case for Adventure Touring

If you didn’t like cool stuff, you wouldn’t be reading this magazine.

Here’s something you’re going to love.

TORQ-IT Screwdriver/Speed Wrench/ Palm Ratchet All In One Tool Variable Speeds Over 600RPM Low Profile, with an “Ergo” Grip and a Non-Slip Design Accepts All 3/8” and 1/4” Sockets and Extensions

BASIC SET: $19.95 • DELUXE SET: $29.95 • ACCESORY SET: $9.95

TORQ-IT PRODUCTS, INC. 1701 Manor Road • Havertown PA 19083 Tel: 1.888.876.9555 • Visit Our New Website: WWW.TORQ-IT.COM

www.beemerboneyard.com USED OILHEAD & K-BIKE PARTS Hundreds of used parts at 50% off new cost or less Order online 24/7 ~ M/C, Visa, Discover or PayPal 100% money-back guarantee ~ parts ship in 24 hours

N EW MAINTENANCE PART ~ BELOW RETAIL No Backorders ~ We Stock What We Sell We now carry German Liqui-Moly Engine & Gear Oil for BMWs

973-775-3495 • M-F 10am~5pm • inquires@beemerboneyard.com

ALL THAT GOOD STUFF

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

Page 47

Motorcycle Marketplace

All That Good Stuff Ask about our Diners Club.

Gift Cards available.

320 Front Street Belvidere, NJ www.thisilldous.com • 908-475-2274 Member

‘50s-Style Drive-In Restaurant Full and Varied Menu Room for the Whole Gang

Sharing your passion for good food since 1983

Two Wheels or Four, it’s always a great time at

Breakfast • Lunch • Espresso Cafe

THE CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN GREAT FOOD • GOOD TIMES • EXCELLENT RIDING Located at Ross’ Corners • 1 Route 15 • Augusta NJ • 973-300-2300

www.chatterboxdrivein.com

845-446-0912 rmerbbq.com www.barnsto

Ice Cream and Dessert • Catering Off-Premise Worth the ride from anywhere!

Open Daily 7am to 4pm • Sunday 7am to 1pm Try our Full Throttle Breakfast Special every Saturday + Sunday Thisilldous is New Jersey’s best kept secret. Maybe the best luncheonette in the State • Star Ledger

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The Only Outdoor Lakeside Dining on Swartswood Lake with Comfortable Warm Indoor Dining Featured in July 2009 Great All American Diner Run

Serving Lunch and Dinner Tuesday Thru Sunday 11am - 9pm • closed Mondays Please call for Winter Hours

If you go home hungry it’s your own fault

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Gift Certificates Available.

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DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 48

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE

Come Ride the Dragon Deals Gap Store • Motel Bar and Grill

Deals Gap 318 Curves in 11 Miles

www.dealsgap.com 800.889.5550 17548 Tapoco Road • Robbinsville, North Carolina 28771

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m/F: 8-7 • sat: 9-5 • sun: 12-4

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Sussex Hills Ltd. For All Your Harley-Davidson Needs Specializing in Motorcycle Repair, Parts & Supplies Cycle Tires Mounted & Balanced • Batteries & Hard Parts Dynojet 250 Dyno available for testing

Proprietor Norman Gross • Since 1976

Our Reputation Speaks for Itself 973-875-2048 946 Rte. 23 South, Sussex NJ 07461 3 miles north of Sussex Borough

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

Page 49

TREBOURMOTORCYCLES • Serving motorcycle enthusiasts and representing our brands with pride for over 12 years • Recognized for service excellence including Suzuki’s highest honor The Cutting Edge Award - Servicing all makes and models • We offer Pick up and Delivery service for the entire New York Metro area • Conveniently located just off I-80 at Exit 28 1445 ROUTE 46 LEDGEWOOD NJ 07852 • 973-584-0810 • TREBOURMOTORCYCLES.COM

Who says you can’t take it with you?!

Bicycle/Golf Clubs to Motorcycle Carrier Systems This unique and adaptable system is the most versatile motorcycle accessory on the market today. Handmade in the USA, it enables motorcycle riders to rack their bicycles securely and travel.

The Perfect Holiday Gift for the Person who does it All!

Non-brand specific • 1% of sales donated to environmental causes • 1% all sales to JDRF

2X2Cycles.com • 919-370-4308 • 2x2cycles@gmail.com 603-957-1157 A Motorcycle Is The Ultimate Toy, Vermont Is The Perfect Playground® We put it together…

Autumn is the Perfect Time to visit the Gray Ghost

The Gray Ghost Inn Motorcyclist-Friendly Destination Lodging Located on Scenic Route 100 in Southern Vermont 290 Route 100 • West Dover, VT 800-745-3615 • www.grayghostinn.com

Full breakfast cooked to order. BYOB bar, hot tub, outdoor firepit, pool and game room. Free Maps and Suggested Rides. Group Special Packages.

5 restaurants/bars within walking distance.

December 13 begins our 12 Days of Christmas Sale HOURS: MON-FRI 9am-6pm • SAT 9am-5pm • SUN 10am-2pm • Closed for Christmas 12/25 and New Years 1/1/11

DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

Page 50

Over

the Portillio Pass, Argentina Jeffrey Harth

A

s soon as I heard his voice on my phone I knew I was in trouble.

It was Luis calling and he was asking if I wanted to go for the “ride of a life-time.” Luis is one of those guys who will inspire you by just being in the same general vicinity. He is a paraplegic who lost the use of his legs at about age 6 but has not let that prevent him from living life to its fullest.

Luis went to the Olympics when he was 24 and won a gold medal in basketball for Argentina. Now he buzzes around Mendoza on his modified quadrunner crossing rivers and climbing rock trails that would put most of the rest of us “hard core” bikers to shame. I swear one of these days he will disappear and they will find his body years later on some mountain peak or at the bottom of a thousand foot cliff, bones parched white to the sun, still smiling.

He wanted to ride to Manzana, a provincial cross-roads about an hour from Mendoza, Argentina consisting of two convenience stores, a beer outlet, and an 80-foot tall wooden statue of the crucified Christ. Empenadas, beer, and God; the staples of life. Oh, and they have a mountain road that rises from the town

"Camels have two hoofed toes on each foot, under which a leathery pad links the two toes. When camels walk, they spread their toes as wide apart as possible to prevent their feet from sinking into the sand".

CamelTOE Side Stand Base enlarger PATENT PENDING!!!

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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

twenty-two miles to the seldom used Paso de Portillio (pronounced porTEEL-yo) cresting the Andes ridge at 4300 meters.

Luis goes faster on his quad than I do on my GS and he knows all the back roads, dirt lanes, horse trails and snail trails. I ate his dust for most of the way. In Manzana we stopped at the first convenience store where Luis yelled from his quad. The store owner, Omar, came out and gave him a big hug. Luis knows everyone and everyone knows Luis.

Omar said something in slurred Spanish about the snow pack and all three of us looked to the west toward the highest ridge.

The mountains rose jagged and sharp into the hovering cloud layer.

Luis looked at me, “What do you think?”

I turned back toward the mountain and watched a condor ride the thermals. “What’s there to think about? I didn’t eat your dirt all the way over just to sit on the step and drink Omar’s lousy beer!”

“Yes!” Luis turned to Omar and spread his arms “So, what do you have for us to eat?”

Ten minutes later I stowed ham and cheese sandwiches and bottled water in the side bag. Then Luis ripped the throttle and tore up the dirt road yelling, “Vamanos!”

I tried to make a quick exit but got so behind myself I stalled in first gear and almost dropped the bike.

With a sheepish grin I composed myself, waved, and then sped across the dirt parking lot, past Wooden Christ, and up the mountain road.

Due to the grade and the rugged trail conditions I had to keep the bike in first gear for much of the time. That, combined with a tail-wind up the valley forced me to keep an eye on my temperature gauge. It hovered just below the Hot Zone.

Page 51

This “road” pre-dates the Inca empire, originally a trail linking the fertile Cuyo Valley of Mendoza with what is now Chile. It was used for centuries by the Inca and then by the disassociated tribes of the great empire after Francisco Pizzaro’s conquest in 1532. Then around 1960 the Argentine Military spent 6 months grading the road to El Portillio but gave up half way and have done little to it since. The result is a combination of crushed rock, shale, and sand washing down from higher elevations. Boulders the size of houses that were tossed out of volcanoes line the road with the nearest volcano, Tupungato, almost 15 miles away.

I did my best to keep up with Luis and he would routinely wait for me at one of the switchbacks. As I approached, steering more with my feet and my knees through the surface that felt like marbles on crushed ice he would yell, “What´s the matter, Ché? You aren’t getting old, are you?” At that he would let out a huge laugh.

At two thousand meters we came to the outpost of the Gendarmerie, the Argentine Military Police. No vehicles are allowed past this point without a pass. Only serious 4X4s, quad runners, trail bikes, and pack animals get past the gate. The Gendarmerie would be the ones who would have to come and rescue a stranded vehicle. If there is ANY suspicion that you might not make it, you won’t get the pass. After all, they want to do as little work as possible and they succeed very well at that objective.

While Luis chatted up the guards I surveyed the surroundings. Behind me I could see down the trail road to the valley floor. Around me sheer mountain faces rose up through the clouds. In the immensity of it I was struck by how my life is just a speck on the big timeline. In my entire lifetime almost nothing would change in this view - no trees would grow, no lakes would form, and the rock faces will look exactly the same from the day I was born to the day I will die.

Luis convinced the guards that we knew what we were doing and they raised the gate for us. He led the way and the “road” quickly became a trail.

The grade steepened and I found myself leaning much farther forward than I am used to in order to keep my balance and steering the bike over the cantaloupe-sized rocks. This made the switchbacks much harder and I had to keep the power on to maintain momentum through the turn lest I, and the bike, be pulled over backward or, worse, skitter off the side of the trail to tumble end over end until slamming into the white-water a thousand feet below. I wanted to stop and take a picture but didn’t trust that I would be able to take my hands off of the bars.

DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

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I passed Luis at the fifteenth switchback above the Gendarmerie outpost (he stopped to drink some water and let me catch up). The wind changed direction and now flowed down the face, bringing with it the clouds, dark, ominous tentacles of cold, wet air. The altimeter on my watch read an even 3,700 meters.

I rolled on more throttle for the next switchback to get the bike pulled around but the front tire skipped across the rocks throwing me off of my line and forcing me wider in the turn than I planned. Now, in my path and at face level, sat a large granite rock, the size of a decent office desk, semi-buried in the dirt and shale. I tried to judge if I had sufficient speed to clear it but what became immediately obvious was that I had no other option. Rolling on more throttle and leaning back I hit the rock with the front tire. What I hadn’t seen, until this moment, was the washout on the backside. It was a good twenty inches deep and would leave no ground clearance for the bike once the front tire dropped over.

“Crap!” I twisted the throttle wide open trying to carry the front tire over the hole but no such luck. The rear tire spun, the bike came down hard on the bash plate under the engine, and the rear tire rose up. That was all it took.

Bike and rider went over hard. I pushed off of the pegs and landed in the scree on my back, spreading out my hands and feet keep from sliding down across the trail and over the edge.

When the movement stopped I scrambled to my feet and flipped off the ignition. Everything got very quiet. A quick survey showed no damage to the tank as the crash guards and the right bag took most of the impact. Luis pulled up behind me wideeyed and yelled, “Are you OK?” “Yep!” I shook my arms and legs so he knew I wasn’t lying. He looked at the fallen bike for a few moments. I threw up my arms in disgust, “Well, don’t just sit there, stupid! Give me a hand!”

He made a motion to move, then looked at his crippled legs and looked back at me. I tried but I couldn’t keep it in any longer and busted out in a gutwrenching laugh. He got the joke and we laughed together for a long time, so hard we were crying. The thin air didn’t make it any easier and I was sucking wind and seeing stars by the time we quit.

Once I got my breath back I got to work, squatted, put my butt against the seat, and leg-pressed the beast upright. Half-way up the thought occurred to me that I should never have filled the gas tank that morning!

I balanced the bike, put the kickstand down, and parked her where she stood. I decided it would be best to take a break and let the adrenaline subside a little and the oil and other fluids and gremlins that live in the bike to

High Alpine Tour with Backroads and Edelweiss

July 17-24, 2011 • If Not Now - WHEN? Head off with Backroads’ publishers Brian & Shira for a tour of a lifetime as we join up with Edelweiss for their High Alpine Tour.

Ride the roads you have dreamed of in the past - Paso Del Stelvio, the Grossglockner, the famed Dolomites.

We’ll even have a day’s ride to Venice.

When: July 17 -24, 2011 In addition to this great tour, Edelweiss offers their Alps Riding Training. For those who have never ridden the Alps, it is highly recommended. For those who have, you can always learn more.

You must arrive at least one day earlier to take this course. Check website for pricing and services.

For more information email doris:

doris.waldegger@edelweissbike.com or call us at 973-948-4176.

Ride the Alps, if not now, when?

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

settle down and readjust to vertical life. Luis and I sat on the trail and ate our sandwiches and drank the water. I could tell Luis was really happy to be up there, even with the incident that we just had. He pointed down to the east between the converging mountain faces, “That’s my next deal.”

I stared at the granite monster. “You are going to climb that?”

He looked at me blankly. “What are you, an idiot? How am I going to climb that? I can’t use my legs!”

I followed his gaze back down and could then make out the shape of a lone paraglider heading to the valley, having launched from the dome.

I drank the last of my water and replied, “You are my kind of guy, Luis!”

We sat in silence looking at the view and I watched him for a moment out of the corner of my eye. It seemed to me that all of this represented freedom for him.

Freedom from whatever limitations he might experience in the world below, though I found it hard to imagine what could limit him.

“Do you think your outlook on life is a result of you being paraplegic or is it just your nature?” I asked. “I think I have a positive outlook but you make me look like I am in constant sorrow.”

He sat for a long minute and looked around. Cattle grazed above us on the steep, rocky slope across the narrow valley, and a stream of water rushed out from a crevice in the rock face behind us, falling 100 meters into an invisible pool.

He shrugged his shoulders, “Don’t know. Doesn’t matter, really.”

After a long moment he shook the crumbs from his hands and said, “Ready?”

I got back on my bike and was able to balance enough on the steep terrain to get some momentum. After twenty meters the rear wheel suddenly lost

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power and I heard this very attention-getting metallic grinding noise coming from between my legs. I pulled in the clutch.

“I never heard a KTM sound like that,” Luis snickered. He saw my face and then got quiet.

As I let out the clutch the grinding noise happened again, coming from where the driveshaft meets the transmission. Pulling in the clutch failed to stop the noise. Well, crap!

I turned off the GS and shook my head, “My friend, I have good news and bad news.”

“Ok, what’s the bad news?” he asked.

“I have a drive-shaft failure.”

Luis looked around us, at the desolate landscape with not a tree or living green thing within sight, let alone help. He looked slightly perplexed, “Yea? Well, what is the good news?”

Spring Break 2011 • May 19 - 22, 2011 Join Backroads for our 13th Annual Spring Break Rally. This time around we’ll be riding to Canandaigua, New York - atop the stunning Finger Lakes of the Empire State. Our base camp will be the beautiful Inn on the Lake • www.theinnonthelake.com. The Inn on the Lake itself has everything we would need and we promise you a great time. Here you’ll find the riding easy and nature is splendid as the entire Finger Lakes are simply gorge-ous! Robert Treman, Taughannock, Watkins Glen and Letchworth Parks are all within an easy day’s ride and not to forget the dozens of wineries and restaurants that sprinkle the region.

Make your reservations now as rooms are VERY limited and they will go fast. You must call 800-228-2801 and ask for the Backroads Motorcycle Tourmagazine Rally for special rates and room options.

Cut-off is April 1, 2011 and we ain’t fooling!

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DECEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS

I smiled and pointed to the valley, “It’s all downhill from here!”

He shook his head and smiled. “Yes it is! What can I do?”

I pointed up-trail to the clouds, “You go to the pass.” I pointed down-trail, “I’ll meet you at the bottom. Don’t argue!”

As he passed me heading up-trail and we shook hands. “Be careful!” he said, smiling.

“You too, amigo!”

At that he took off up the trail and I was left alone. I got the GS turned around, pointed down hill, and began to coast, keeping my speed up to manage the terrain. I surprised a number of people by my nearly silent approach, including one young couple making out in the apparent seclusion beside one of the streams crossing the trail. The water was a good eighteen inches deep and running fast, and the crossing was about 10 meters with a smooth gravel bottom. I hit the river at 40 mph with a “WHOOOSH” throwing water in twin sprays behind me. The girl screamed twice, first at the sound, then at the cold, wet spray. I wanted to yell, “Sorry!” but I was laughing too hard.

In fact I laughed all the way to the bottom of the mountain. Fourteen miles

from where I left Luis I coasted to a silent stop in front of the convenience store. Omar called a friend with a flatbed truck and I sat myself in a chair on the deck, ordered some empanadas, and pulled out my worn paperback, Cold Mountain. Ruby had just wrung the head off of a flogging’ rooster and I was anxious to see what happened next.

As I sat in the advancing shadow of the Christ statue it became clear to me that there are some things in life that are worth getting upset about. A broken bike isn’t one of those things, at least not today.

I had just finished the chapter when a dust plume rose in the distance. It was Luis barreling down the mountain. He hit the crossroads, got airborne, and skidded to a stop in a swirl of dust. He was grinning so hard I thought he was going to break something.

Trying to catch his breath, he pointed back up the mountain, and began to stammer, “Unbelievable ... !” He was literally on the verge of tears.

“Wait,” I said. I put my book down and raised my hand. “You don’t have to say anything. I can see it in your face.”

I have to admit it. It was a ride of a lifetime.

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2010

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PRODUCT REVIEW

MO-TECH TRAX LUGGAGE

FROM TWISTED THROTTLE

With a new F650GS in the stable one of the first things we needed to address was a set of hard luggage for this steed. There are a number of companies in the after market that sell such luggage and some of these are better than others. What we wanted was a set of bags that were strong and durable, offered large stowing capacity and great looks.

With this list of features we went to the source for such cool adventure goodies, the guys at Twisted Throttle in Rhode Island.

After a few emails we took a ride to their office/showroom and got a close up look at their SWMotech TraX Alu-Box Sidecases. These bags fit the bill perfectly. The TraX Sidecases come in two sizes, 37 and 45 liter.

The F650GS is on the petite-side of the GS family so we chose the 37 liters cases, which still offered plenty of room.

The bags also come with waterproof liners, though the bags are fairly water tight as is. But, the liners make the end of the day so much simpler.

Trax Cases are built from rugged 1.5mm thick aluminum and all the mounting hardware is of stainless steel. The case rivets are installed using the same no-pierce, super-strong rivet technology that holds the frame of the Audi TT together – impressive!

The TraX Cases come in two colors – raw aluminum or a sweet black powdercoat. We chose the latter.

The TraX Cases come with built on tie down points and weigh just 9.5 lbs, with dimensions being a svelte 19.3” x 9.1” x 14.6.”

TraX Cases do not come with lock cylinders installed. Instead, matched lock cylinder and key sets are sold separately. The bags cannot be left unlocked with the locks installed. To close them you have to lock them. This was our only small concern with the TraX Cases.

The brackets holding the bags allow for quick and easy removal if you want or need to take the cases off.

Installation was easily handle by Twisted Throttle and soon Shira’s GS looked like it was halfway ready for the Atigun Pass.

Yes, these bags are a bit on the wide side, but that is a BMW design error and not the TraX Cases fault.

We spiced up her cases with a snazzy Backroads logo, which you will not be able to get, but they do look great!

The total for both left and right cases and mounting hardware needed for the GS came to just over $900, but money we felt was well spent to make an already superb machine that much better!

For more information and other motorcycle applications log onto www.twistedthrottle.com.

TRAMA’S

MOTORCYCLE & AUTO SCHOOL

TRAMA’S

AUTO SCHOOL INC. 87-15 Jamaica Avenue Woodhaven, NY 11421

PHONE (212) 874-6333 (516) 541-1119 (718) 847-2015 EMAIL TRAMAS847@AOL.COM

WEB WWW.TRAMAS.COM