December 2017

W H A T ’ S

I N S I D E

MO NT HLY C O L U M NS

22 Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................4 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................5

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors

Dana Beisner, Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Dr. Seymour O’Life

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................6 ON THE MARK ....................................................7 BACKLASH..........................................................8 Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822

INDUSTRY INFOBITES .....................................10 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA..................................12 BIG CITY GETAWAY .........................................14

24

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WE’RE OUTTA HERE ........................................18

973.948.4176

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SHIRA’S INSIDE SCOOP ..................................20

email

editor@backroadsusa.com

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE ............................46

online

www.backroadsusa.com

UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ...................48

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FE AT U RE S TOUR DE FRANCE ............................................24 HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE .....................................37

MOTO R C YCL E S P OT L I G H T 2018 HONDA GOLD WING ..............................22

PR O DU C T R E V IE W S TOURATECH ALPINE LAYERS ........................39 VENTURE HEATED GEAR ...............................42 SHAD HARD LUGGAGE ..................................43

14

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2017. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

Page 4

DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

for the fun of it. But, somewhere along the line these routes can begin to expand and the miles begin to grow and multiply.

BRIAN RATHJEN What started out as a good long day on the bike suddenly becomes just a long day. Add into the mix any heat, humidity or rain and that becomes a long & hard day.

The SweeT SpoT On the way up a ride that could have been in the mid-200 miles ended up being 300+, all tight and interesting roads, but the weather was running I might say I was getting old, but the against us this summer’s day. truth is I know, after a million miles, what I am comfortable with as far as 250 miles this day would have been fun – the extra 75 became a slog as miles done during a day in the saddle. the heat, humidity and miles bore down on Again and again I see the Iron Butt ridus all. ers lionized as almost two-wheel superBreaking up the ride surely helps. Stopheroes but, although you have to have ping for 20 minutes or so can revitalized some respect for 1,000 mile days, personthe most sluggish soul. ally, this style of riding holds little attracComing back from this same Summer tion for me.

Squeeze both the temperature and humidBeen there done that – don’t have to do ity was again flying high and finally it again – unless I have too. rolling across the Garden State line, near In the last few months I have run into a High Point State Park, both our Camelbaks few riders who were on long trips or just and our bodies were drained. If this were finishing them up. A number of “Four a race the yellow flag would surely be out Corners” riders who had touched the four on us. reaches of the 48 contiguous states. Each Just about this time Shira and I thought of these riders were not on a time schedegardless of what some riders think – for me rid- stopping at the Elias Cole restaurant on ule, or in any competition, and when ing is not just about big miles. It is about the jour- Route 23 would not only be a good idea, asked if they were, to a rider, they all ney, the ride and the experiences along the way. but a near necessity. The Elias Cole has beshook their heads and said they didn’t just come our go-to spot for short runs from the want to ride miles, but to see what they office (just 20 miles) and when circumstances cry for ice were riding through and to experience what really makes cream, pie and coffee. After fully cooling down and sugup the country. It’s people and places. aring and caffineating up – we finished the last few miles I totally agree; such a great way to see it. to Backroads Central under a green flag.

My buddy Mike went to see his grandkid – the deal So for me I think I am going to admit that I have a prebeing Mike lives in New Jersey and his kids are in Washferred “Sweet Spot” of miles I want to do in a day. My ington State. There was a bit of a ride there and back, over ideal day will start around 8 am and end around 4 or 5 pm 6,000 miles, but he took his time - making longer easy and run some where between 230 and 270 miles max miles on the interstate at times and shorter harder miles that somewhere obviously being around the 250 mark. when scooting along the backroads when it worked and Better to get into my hotel, lodge or home base a bit early there was something to see. than a bit late. Along the way I will be seeking out interAlong the way he stopped at anything and everything esting places, people and things and taking time to stop that caught his interest. We were following him on Faceand see such things. book and it was a fun journey indeed.

Regardless of what some riders think – for me riding is Around the same time there was a road rally that was not just about big miles. It is about the journey, the ride just about daily high miles. Feh. and the experiences along the way.

This past July Backroads held our Summer Squeeze When I keep it in the “Sweet Spot” mile-wise I am alRally in Vermont. I have a plethora of routes to this region most always a happy rider at the end of the day, already and each time we head up and back to West Dover, I usulooking forward to tomorrow’s journey. ally whip up another with some new roads tossed in just

FREE WHEELIN’

R

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2017

WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL

Suffering SyndromeS After our 2017 Backroads Rallies came to an end this fall, I was popping through Facebook to see if any of our rally attendees had posted any thoughts, pictures, etc. I came upon this entry: “Please help me fight this serious mental condition – PBFS - Post Backroads Fun Syndrome. PBFS sufferers often can be helped by the planning of future rides together. Help put an end to PBFS.” It wasn’t too long after that Jeff Caruana suggested we make an actual Facebook page to help people connect and rid themselves of the separation anxieties developed by not seeing their Backroads peeps. Some graphics were quickly put together and a social community was formed (see, Backroads is friggin’ social). Folks started posting images of their rides, suggestions for get togethers, and simply keeping in touch, electronically, until their next physical encounter.

Even though Bill Heald thinks we may have some mild weather in our winter’s future, I know that my riding days will begin to dwindle and, not only will I have separation anxiety from my two-wheeled friends, my biped humans will be seen less and less as well. For those who have the same feelings, here is a spot to keep connected and get through the winter doldrums: www.facebook.com/groups/137918720281546/?source_id=86102625812 I also know that many riders/readers have kept their distance from getting involved with Facebook – good for you to fight Big Brother. With you in mind, even though you’ll still have to delve into the world wide internet web, Backroads will post any upcoming events on our regular website. You won’t get the instant gratification found by the continuous scrolling through Facebook/Twitter/Instagram/etc. but you will get the news just a little bit sooner than reading it in these fine pages. Just point your browser here and get ready

Page 5 to meet some like-minded riders who truly know how to enjoy themselves: www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html Getting back to PBFS, here are some other ways to remedy the affliction – get out your maps, touring books and scraps of paper with all those ‘I’ll get there some day’ destinations. Pull up the calendar and block off some definite dates to do the rides that you’re going to plan. Make one or two lodging reservations so that you are somewhat committed. I know that I have folders, shelves and rubber-banded stacks of literature on places that have piqued my interest, whether in passing on a ride where time did not permit a stop, reading in a magazine or online or having been told by someone else.

How do you think we can continually fill these pages (although Dr. O’Life can turn a pretty good tale out of seemingly nothing).

I’ve said this thousands of times, but one of my most favorite winter past time is sitting in front of a fire, sipping the drink du jour, and staring at maps to see just how far I can get in a couple of days without setting my wheels on anything but backroads. I believe that this coming summer’s goal is to get to as many major league baseball stadiums as possible. We have hit almost all along the east coast – Miami is a bear, as who really wants to go to Florida during baseball season, or at all, for that matter. We made it to one of the furthest stadiums a few years ago – Seattle Mariners’ Safeco Field – so perhaps a fly and ride to California could help us tag the Giants, Angels, Dodgers and Padres and maybe even the Diamondbacks. I have been to my much-beloved Cubbies home field (pre-lights) but have yet to get to Chicago’s American League Sox stadium. We’ve had a dog in the Braves’ old digs but now have to head back for their newly built home at SunTrust Park – perhaps we can incorporate a visit to Alexandria and see if Rick and Darryl are hanging around. There is an algorithm to plot out a path to all 30 stadiums in 30 days, but I feel that trying to do that via motorcycle would probably kill me.

Anyway, you get the idea. There are tons of fun road trip ideas that will last a whole riding season – state ice cream trails, the best fried chicken, Roadside America oddities – pick a topic and plan a ride. Invite your friends to join in; hey, I know this social media spot that would love to have you.

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DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD

’TiS a differenT SeaSon Back in the day (or maybe it was the day before The Day), I realized that one of the reasons I love riding motorcycles is how much closer it got me to nature. Way before I ever first threw a leg over a bike (including the pedaled variety), I had a fascination with weather and the change of seasons. This is despite having first lived in Texas and then in LA, and never really getting to see the full scope of what fall and winter really meant. This was until I moved to the Northeast of course, and while I don’t do much (OK, zero) riding in the snow, fall and spring have been complete joys to experience on two wheels in these parts. Nothing unusual here, right? I’m sure you enjoy the seasonal variations to the riding tapestry as much as I do. But here’s the thing: the seasons are really playing with our sensibilities these days, and in an amazingly short period of time things are evolving, climate-wise. The changes are becoming more noticeable and far more universal, and as I live in a community with a lot of farmers it’s been quite an interesting roller coaster. Here in Connecticut, we just had the warmest October on record. This implies that December and

January may quite possibly be much warmer than when we first moved here, which means on Christmas Day I may actually be tootling about on the bike.

For Texas or LA this isn’t unusual. But here?

In the tradition of popular expressions that are both redundant and devastatingly obvious, I shall say this: it is what it is. Trying to figure out the full implications of the altering of normal seasonal variations makes my jaw hurt, so I am content to just deal with the weather day by day. With the warmer temperatures this means more comfortable riding, in the strange new environment of leaf-free trees with no snow on the ground. Of course, around here they’ll probably still put salt and sand on the roads even though it’s 70 degrees outside, but that’s another issue. It’s important to also point out that this may all be moot, as the weather being the weather we could get two feet of snow and an arctic blast that will freeze my engine cases so solidly that a week in Cozumel would do nothing to thaw them. But for now, I see the current trends continuing and the result is a different kind of holiday season, and not just because the temperature is wandering about like a drunken pirate. In addition to the weather, the very nature of holiday displays are being altered by the times and the rides will no doubt result in observations that catalogue the changes in Yule Tech that have already started. Actual snowmen have been replaced in large part by those weird inflatable Stay Puft wannabes on people’s lawns, with their electric personal blowers that introduce a non-yuletide hum in what should be a background of caroling. True, if you find yourself launched from the roadway and into the Dickerson’s front yard, these pillowy figures will act as some sort of festive Air Fence, which is a good thing. But even with this safety enhancement there’s something about them that creeps me out.

Like a brand-spanking-new motorcycle, many of the old incandescent Christmas lights have been replaced

by LED units, and while I applied the considerable savings in energy they just don’t look right to me. I’m all about color temperature you see, and the numbers are higher than I like and hence they lack a certain warmth.

Weird how the hotter the color temperature, the colder the lights appear but that’s the way the scale works. It’s one of life’s contradictions, like a touring bike seat that seems really plush initially but gets really uncomfortable as the miles roll by. It is true that they have figured tweaks in the lighting (and some of the seats) to make them look more traditional, but they still have an odd, but not entirely unpleasant, look to them. Ah, progress.

It’s always a double-edged sword, this stuff.

So what else will the ridable Christmas season give us? There are hazards you normally don’t have to deal with, like an uptick in distracted/drunk/party-focused drivers that make the usual mayhem pale in comparison.

Elves of every age are out, and many usually don’t drive much during the rest of the year but feel obligated to take their (usually large sedans) on the road to do some combat shopping. They are well-equipped in the holiday cheer department but often challenged when it comes to driving in a competent manner. Then there’s the whole Office Party syndrome and, well, you get the picture. Where in the past you dealt with these hazards in a semi-armored vehicle when there was more seasonal weather going on, now and in the future you may have to engage these hazards on your moto. There is really no other time of year that compares with the holidays, and where there is joy there is also lots of people scurrying about in all kinds of moods, states of attention and levels of jolliness. It’s a lovely season, and you should get out and enjoy it on your bike (if weather permits).

Regardless of your transport, we could all use some cheer after a rough year, and I hope you get more than your share.

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2017

Page 7

Regrettably, the service area is worse. The “tech” who did the pre-delivery brief to me on a bike I just bought knew far less about the machine than I did. If she was a week out of vo-tech high school and had been to motorcycle MARK ByERS mechanics-r-us or any other trade schools, you couldn’t prove it by me. Her “assistant” appeared to be on summer break from high school, if that. I’m The nexT dollar general not kidding or making light of my half-century-plus of age, either. When it The other day, I went to a shop to came time for a 600-mile break-in service, Mark’s garage did the oil change get a part. I could have gotten it at and once-over. several places online and had it And suddenly, just like that, my impetus for that brick-and-mortar estabshipped to my door, probably for less, but I believe in supporting the local lishment evaporated like ether in the carb of a balky dirt bike. It’s funny how brick-and-mortar folks. It’s hard to try on a helmet over the internet, for exjust one person there made the difference between my patronage and my inample. This particular shop has a couple bargain tables with some wickeddifference. I’m betting a fair number of other people who dealt there because good deals if you’re willing to spend thirty of him won’t be going back either. I’d be willing to minutes pawing through XXS-size gloves and obhe guy behind the parts counter who bet that the loss of business is going to offset their scure boxes with Japanese Kanji on them. I knows his stuff and what part num- cost-cutting measures. I see a shop in a downward found an adjustable clutch lever for the Triumph bers cross over and what can be used spiral that, like so many others, will eventually be just at half off – woohoo! another vacant building converted to a Dollar General. as a proper substitute is invaluable.

When I went to check out, I made sure I went People make an enormous difference in the retail to a particular guy at the parts counter. I’ve known him for a while and he sales trade, especially among enthusiast-driven businesses. The guy behind is always friendly and helpful and has a lot more knowledge than some of the parts counter who knows his stuff and what part numbers cross over and the other people who work there - as in, he’s a true expert and enthusiast and what can be used as a proper substitute is invaluable. The hard-working, exthe rest are only vaguely familiar with the concept that a motorcycle has two pert tech who can actually work on a bike is worth his weight in gold. When wheels. I realize motorcycle shops run on razor-thin margins, but damn, get I was at VIR earlier this season, trying to keep the bike from running wide the high-school girl who mans the other end of the parts counter to put down at the kink at well over the ton, I was damn thankful I had a meticulous, exher cell phone long enough to learn what swingarm spools are. pert technician who mounted and balanced the tires and double-checked the Anyway, “my guy” at the parts counter said, “It’s been nice working with torque on the brake rotors and axle bolts. There’s just way too much at stake. you over the years, but this is my last week.” There’s new management and I regularly go to another shop, one that deals in a premium brand, and dethey are cutting back benefits and salary to show a better bottom line, so the spite all the Gucci and glitz the brass makes them put into the building and only person at the parts counter who knows his stuff is leaving. He told me displays, the real glitz to me is behind the parts counter and over in the mainthere were customers, like me, who would turn around and walk out if they tenance bays. Guys with dirt under their fingernails and true enthusiasm for didn’t see him. When I asked where he was going, he described being apthe machines are who bring me in and keep me coming back. They’re the proached by a man who hires for a big-time overnight delivery service – a only reason I still own that brand. I think the owner of that shop has some man who recognizes great customer service. A good salary and benefits were inkling of the value of those people. But if he ever loses that bubble, I’m offered and it was buh-bye, parts counter, hello truck. sure Dollar General will appreciate the building.

ON THE MARK

T

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DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

BACKLASH

Letters to the Editor Just wanted to let you know that our dog Tinkerbelle’s life was terminated this week. She was a great friend and pet, but regrettably it was her time to go. She WAS a motorcyclist and will be missed in our travels.

Without Tinkerbelle riding with us, Cathie & I will just be another motorcycling couple.

With Tink, we were celebrities.

Regretfully, dick & Cathie roberts

Hi Shira!

I read with great interest your story about your new V-Strom. I’m also vertically challenged (5’2”-ish) and wondering just how short you are, and you were able to make it work. I would really appreciate it if you would take a minute to share some info.

Thanks! manna Cali Manna, About me and the V-Strom: I am 5’4”-ish and can comfortably be on bikes that have seat heights of anything below 31” (prefer under 30”). The standard seat height is a bit over 32”, making it uncomfortable – the lowered seat brings it down to just around 31”, which had me on my toes – okay but not optimal. I took the four rectangular rubber pieces that cushion under the seat and cut them in half lengthwise, dropping the seat height about 20mm, bringing it down just enough to get the balls of my feet on the ground.

All that said, the bike is quite light compared to my BMW F650GS so slipping sideways to get one leg down is really okay. I know that there are other

options to lower it more. I received this letter from Jose Arencibia: ‘Another thing u can do is lower the front end approx. 20mm. I did that to mine and it’s better for me to reach with the stock seat. My inseam is 30. It’s easy to lower it - put a jack under the engine while the bike is on its center stand, loosen the two trees and slowly release the press on the jack and lower the bike on to its forks. When they protrude 20mm past the upper tree, tighten the 4 bolts; this does not change the geometry.’

I hope that gives you the info you were looking for – in the short time (about 2200 miles) that I’ve ridden it, I have very much enjoyed it. It handles beautifully, very light and nimble. Let me know if I can answer any other questions. ~Shira Dear Mr. Editor, I was thrilled to see the piece on Schoodic Point as I love riding in Maine.

In fact I just recently did a weekend dual-sporting ride out of Machias, covering some 200 miles of forest roads and ATV trails. In Maine it's possible to register your street motorcycle as an ATV allowing you to ride the ATV trail network.

In the article there are several mentions of Arcadia National Park. Unfortunately no such place exists. I don't know where the author may have actually gone but he certainly did not go to Arcadia National Park, again since there is no such place. At least not in Maine.

Also curious, Rick makes reference to Frenchmen's Bay. I've ridden the coast of Maine many times since the mid-1970's and I've not heard of Frenchmen's Bay nor have I ever seen the same on any of my many Maine maps to include the famous DeLorme Atlas and Gazetteer.

Rick wisely mentions the views from Schoodic Point, which indeed are excellent. Postcard views of the Maine coast abound in every direction. One thing however did confuse me. He refers to Desert Island. Now Gilligan and the Professor were stranded on a desert island but I am pretty sure it wasn't in Maine. Again based on my thorough knowledge of Maine and maps thereof, I'm familiar with no place called Desert Island. Not sure which direction from Schoodic he may be looking. The best views are to the West

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2017 but there's no Desert Island over that way.

As I said, I've ridden this area quite heavily over many years and I know some great roads for both street and knobbily-treaded motorcycles, but the Goldsboro Road does not ring any bells. In Maine, many rural roads are named for the town to which they take you, but there are no towns in Maine named Goldsboro. Not that I know of in any event.

Finally, the mention of the "Schoodic peninsular" seems to be incomplete.

As peninsular is the adjective form of the noun peninsula, I expected more information. Perhaps something like, "The peninsular feel of Schoodic is most pleasant." But again, I am just guessing here.

In any event, I enjoyed reading about one of my favorite places. At least I think I was reading about one of my favorite places. Or maybe I wasn't. I can't be certain.

Best regards and good riding, Jeff adams • rochester nh (not all that far west of Bar Harbor, Maine) P.S. You know I am just being difficult in a cheap attempt at lame humor.

Please don't take anything I've written seriously. 8-) Brian & Shira, I’m planning on taking a trip to West Virginia and explore the roads there for a few days. Is it possible for you to send me the route that you used to get to WV from NJ. After that I’ll take it from there. I don’t have a GPS so I would need the road numbers or names with just a left or right turn. Any help you can give me will be great.

On another note, I believe that you were the founders of Sport Touring Motorcycle Club (STMC). If you ever have the time, I think it would be fabulous if you could lead a Sunday ride. Pick the starting point, the route and we’ll have a party at the end. What say?

Love your rag. herb Sommerfeldt Herb, We forwarded our route to West Virginia we used for the last Spring Break Rally – we hope it works for you.

STMC was a long time ago - in a galaxy far, far away. Don’t think many

Page 9 of the newer members know or care who we are. But thank you for the thought.

Also, we’re not a rag dammit. The nice glossy paper we use won’t soak up oil or clean windows but Backroads does burn like a Duraflame!

Hello Brian and Shira, I imagine that a large collection of your readers can commiserate with you over losing a newly mounted tire to an errant nail, as you spoke of in the October issue. My episode this season was with a new Michelin on my Triumph Trophy. One morning while checking the air in the rear tire I noticed it was down 7 pounds… “that’s odd,” was my initial thought.

It was good that I was in the garage at home because the angle that the bent nail went in (and came out) made it impossible for my Stop-n-Go to keep the air inside.

Sitting in Hamburg Motorsports as my buddy Jeff worked to replace the tire, I noticed he had made shelving for his wall, out of old tire carcasses.

It’s an expensive shelf when you consider the initial cost of the tire, but at least with the inexpensive brackets and piece of scrap plywood, my tire (with almost new tread) is not sitting in his scrap heap waiting to go into a landfill.

And it is a cool conversation piece – kind of a “trophy” for this riding season!

Ride safe. Lookforward to seeing everyone at the Spring Break next May! Bob laford • petersham, ma

Got something to say?

We’d love to hear it.

Email: editor@backroadsusa.com

Letters may be edited, never censored, to fit.

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DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

IN DU STRY INFOBITES ROCK STAR TRIUMPH REVEAL AT HERMY’S On Thursday, October 26th, about 200 Triumph Motorcycle enthusiasts jammed into the new Triumph Flagship Showroom at Hermy’s BMW Triumph on Rte. 61 in Port Clinton, PA. The crowd gathered to see the all-new 2018 Bonneville Bobber Black and Bonneville Speedmaster – the two newest members of the Triumph Bonneville family of bikes. The launch event had a Hollywood feel but never mind setting up Hollywood style smoke machines excitement levels ran at a fever pitch as the three accessorized versions of each model were unveiled amidst the REAL fog of burning rubber – sales staffers Bob Lilley and Bobby Brown lit the rear tires up out in the parking lot before riding each bike into the crowded show-

News from the Inside room! Inside, the crowd was able to get acquainted with the new Triumphs while Hermy’s provided music, food, beer and wine, tattoos, straight razor shaves and custom pinstriping. If you’re thinking of a new or pre-owned Triumph or BMW, Hermy’s has been the destination for the serious motorcyclist since 1963. Family owned and operated for three generations, the staff at Hermy’s knows what works and what doesn’t because they ride year round. Whether you need a new or pre-owned bike, gear, accessories, service or just a great shop to ride into and kick tires over a cup of coffee, Hermy’s is your waypoint. (photo credit: Andrew Colosimo Photography)

AEROSTICH POPS UP IN NEW JERSEY Aerostich is returning to the Garden State, with all of the latest riding gear and equipment, for a special FourDay Pop-Up event in Cherry Hill, NJ. Join Aerostich factory fitting experts and see, try on and feel all of the latest Aerostich riding gear, including the all-new Cousin Jeremy Waxed Cotton suit. Check out the latest R-3 (Roadcrafter 3) one piece suit, the Roadcrafter City and Tactical Suits, Women’s sized Roadcrafters, Utility Riding Pants, Darien’s, Falstaff’s and more. Sixty sizes for try-ons and fittings, plus dozens more in all popular sizes and colors are in-stock for immediate cash-and-carry sale! View a selection of Aerostich Messenger Bags, Elkskin and Deerskin Gloves, Tank Panniers, Saddle Bags, Seat Bags, Fleece Layers and Electric Liners.

To experience the superior fit of Aerostich men’s and women’s graded suits, jackets and pants, stop by anytime during the four-day event, or schedule a fitting appointment time by contacting Lynn Wisneski at (218) 341-0416 or email lwisneski@aerostich.com.

Make plans to visit the Aerostich Cherry Hill, New Jersey pop-up. Open from 9am to 6pm Thursday – Sunday, November 30th- December 3rd, at 2240 Marlton Pike West, Cherry Hill, NJ 08002 in the Garden State Pavilions Shopping Center. Swap riding stories with us and other area riders and pick up some FREE Aerostich swag too.

More info at www.aerostich.com/Cherryhill17.

The Aerostich New Jersey Pop-Up is located about 8 miles from Philadelphia, PA), 32 miles from Trenton, NJ, 88 miles from New York, NY, 142 miles from Washington, DC, and 311 miles from Pittsburg, PA.

AN ICON AND FRIEND OF BACKROADS GONE Schneider’s Restaurant, an iconic family establishment in Monmouth County known for its homemade German food, was partially destroyed at the end of October after a fire broke out.

Witnesses said the blaze began around 4:30 a.m. Saturday at the Avon-by-the-Sea restaurant on Main Street.

Firefighters were able to put it out relatively quickly, but the damage to the building was extensive.

No injuries were reported. The cause of the fire in under investigation, but officials said they suspect it began in the kitchen.

Loyal customers came to the restaurant Saturday

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2017 morning to see what was left of their favorite food spot. Many said they hope the owners will rebuild Schneider’s.

The family-run business started in Newark in the 1960s before the family moved it to Avon-by-the-Sea in 1970. Schneider’s is best known for its homemade ice cream, strudel and schnitzel.

AAA CLAIMS BOOMERS AT RISK A new report from AAA claims that the baby boomer generation that made motorcycles cool are now more likely to sustain life-threatening or fatal injuries in a crash than younger riders.

The organization, analyzing federal crash data from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), says older riders make up a disproportionate number of motorcycle fatalities. The mortality rate for riders who are 60 or older is more than four times the overall increase in motorcycle deaths for 2015-16, says AAA, with motorcycle fatalities rising 5.1% while deaths among older baby boomers increased 22%.

Important to note, the increase in overall motorcycle fatalities is partially the byproduct of a corresponding rise in the number of motorcycles on the road, increasing to 8.6 million motorcycles in 2015 compared with 8.4 million in 2014, according to Federal Highway Administration (FHWA) data cited by the organization.

NEW YORK MEASURE WOULD BAN CHILDREN FROM RIDING Assembly Bill 8700 would prohibit children under the age of twelve from riding on a motorcycle. Introduced by Assemblymember Aileen M. Gunther (D-Dist.100), the bill states; “No person shall operate or ride a motorcycle on a public highway, road or street in this state with a child under the age of twelve on such motorcycle.”

A8700 has been referred to the Assembly Transportation Committee.

MOTORCYCLE THEFTS ON THE RISE The annual theft report from the National Insurance Crime Bureau shows bike thefts rose 2% nationally across the U.S. in 2016, with a total of 46,467

Page 11 motorcycles were reported stolen, up from 45,555 in 2015.

For the second year in a row, California is the top state for stolen bikes, where 7,506 motorcycles were reported taken — compared with 4,482 stolen in Florida and 3,692 in Texas, the next most troublesome territories. Vermont had only 24 motorcycle thefts in 2016, the least amount of all the states.

New York was the most-plagued city, followed by San Diego, Las Vegas and Los Angeles, while Los Angeles County was the top county.

The NICB study reveals that the bulk of motorcycle thefts predictably occur during the summer months, when more bikes are on the street. August was the top month, when almost twice as many motorcycles disappeared than in December or January.

Some bikes are more popular targets than others or are simply easier to steal, and a disproportionate number are Japanese models top the theft list: Honda (9052 thefts), Yamaha (7,723), Suzuki (6,229), Kawasaki (5,221), Harley-Davidson (4,963).

FHA APPOINTS MOTORCYCLIST ADVISORY COUNCIL The Federal Highway Administration has appointed 10 members to the Motorcyclist Advisory Council, which will advise the agency director on infrastructure issues affecting motorcycle riders.

Mike Sayre, AMA government relations manager for on-highway issues, has been named chair of the council.

“This is an important step toward ensuring that motorcyclists are deeply involved in the planning and implementation of infrastructure changes and improvements and that motorcycles are considered at all stages, especially with regard to emerging technologies,” said AMA President and CEO Rob Dingman. “We are elated that our own Mike Sayre is chairing this group.

The Motorcyclist Advisory Council can become a powerful mechanism for promoting motorcycle safety.”

The first MAC meeting is Dec. 5 at the National Highway Institute in Arlington, VA. More information about the meeting is available in the Federal Register (www.federalregister.gov/documents/2017/11/02/2017-23862/motorcyclist-advisory-council-to-the-federal-highway-administration).

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DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MY STERI OUS AM ERI CA Calendar SToneS of high poinT neoliThiC markerS of The SeaSonS Throughout the planet, modern man has come to the realization that ancient peoples track the passing of the years, the seasons and the solstices with markers.

Many of these were objects, mostly stone, placed or raised in line with natural landmarks on the horizon.

When we think of these ancient calendars our mind might bring us to the Salisbury Plains of England, the Carnac stones of Brittany in France or other such sites in Mexico or Peru.

I have one a bit closer to home.

How about a park in the northwest corner of New Jersey?

Many of us have been to this state park, just south of the border with New York, up where New Jersey, Pennsylvania and New York come together, but little do many know that this part of the region has been used and revered for thousands of years by the local tribes way before the Europeans came or New Jersey built the monument atop the cliff.

Back in these days local peoples would keep track on the rising and setting sun, which allowed them to plot the seasons and their lives with planting, harvesting, hunting, fairer weather and when to plan for the harsh winters.

Atop High Point State Park, just a few feet off the roadway that winds around the lake, you will find the first of three

such stones that were erected more than a thousand years ago.

Looking across Lake Marcia to the east you will see a lowering of the hills or a notch with the High Point Monument to your left.

The first stone, a Summer Solstice Marker, is a large conglomerate rock and looks to be keenly shaped and seems to have been lifted into its present position. During the first days of the summer, if you stand behind this large boulder and look out over the point towards the notch, the sunrise is just about spot on.

Just up the road a bit you will find the next boulder, which is the Spring and Autumn Equinox Marker. As the dawn sun rises on both March and September Equinox, this large marker lines up perfectly with the morning show.

It is hard to miss this one as, sadly, the State of New Jersey has a High Point Park plaque mounted on the side of it.

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2017 Right off the road and up the hill is the Visitor’s Center and here the third stone can be found.

This is the Winter marker and on December 21 the dawn can be seen rising on the far side of the notch – another year done and a new one to begin.

Who built these stone calendars and were they used for more than just keeping track of the year.

Some believe they were part of a surveying or marking system for early fur traders and natives needing to keep on track during the season’s travels.

I have read that more than one prominent archeologist believes they were created by traveling Celts or other European peoples, perhaps of Viking heritage, that landed and explored for resources (the fur trade was huge for centuries).

Some sources have said that these stone markers were raised and put into position over a thousand years ago. That would put them way before Columbus sailed the ocean blue.

Whomever, whatever or why may remain a bit of a mystery for us, but that is why we are talking about this here on the pages of Mysterious America.

But, we all can agree that these rocks work at Calendar Markers and do line up with the rising sun at the Solstices and Equinoxes of the year.

Page 13 “But, wait Seymour… it’s impressive and all that, but maybe you are reaching a bit here?”

Okay – let’s look at the final stone I have yet to show you.

Fire up that bike and travel back down to Route 23 and we’ll ride south.

Riding on Route 23 South, you’ll find a tiny dirt way called Hankins Road that heads to the right. Not far up the road we’ll park the bikes and hike a bit on a path towards Lake Rutherford.

Here we will see that this part of the Garden Sate isn’t just weird, but mysterious as well.

Welcome to Tripod Rock.

The going “Muggle” theory is that this is simply a remnant of the Wisconsin Glaciers that dropped it off some 1,800 years ago and that rain, runoff and other erosional factors have scurried the dirt from underneath the large stone leaving the smaller stones to support it like legs of a table.

It does seem as though, fairly recently, other stones have been added to support the big stone, but that doesn’t take away from the oddity here.

Glacial remnants, erosion, luck? That’s a thought.

But the other theories have it as a travel marker for the native peoples and, later, the fur traders making their way along this once fur-rich land.

Still we can go back to some happy Celts just a bit lost on a heavy Saturday night. (I am a Scot and can say that) And, there are always the aliens to blame.

This stone – Tripod Rock – is amazing and, like the Calendar Stones up at High Point, are certainly a deep part of Mysterious America.

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DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Hanover Powersports Presents

BIG CITY GETAWAY BoB’S Bmw VinTage Bmw muSeum JESSUP, MARYLAND In the motorcycle world there are those who, over years, begin to amass various machines, memorabilia and general stuff pertaining to motorcycles.

We are always amazed at what some folks have hidden away in the back of their garage.

But now and again there is someone who has dedicated a life to working in and around and with one marque and I know this place in Jessup, Maryland where one man’s lifetime involvement with BMW has come together in an impressive and eclectic collection of all things with the blue & white roundel.

Bob Henig is that man.

Over the years when we have visited Bob’s BMW, in Jessup, Maryland, we have always been impressed with his strong collection of all things BMW.

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind His office is…, well it’s very interesting and you would never know what to expect sitting in there.

Over the last few years Bob and his staff have worked to refit a large facility just a block away from the showroom, making it into one of the most impressive vault of BMW machines, memorabilia and flavor in the United States.

Bob’s BMW Vintage BMW Museum.

Two floors and covering 3,500 feet of space, it features over 65 vintage and classic BMW motorcycles and side cars, collectables and art work.

The history of BMW Motorrad can be found as you stroll through Bob’s BMW stunning collection of BMW

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2017

motorcycles, such as factory original BMWs from as far back as 1925; never before ridden BMWs from decades and decades ago, such as a 30+ year old “Slash 5”. Dr. Greg Frazier’s R 80 G/S that circumnavigate the globe and has over 240,000 miles on it. There is even a stuffed Frazier who has never looked so good.

Then there is the Phil Funnell’s R75/6Podcycle – ridden in this amazing gent’s final ride from Chilliwack, British Columbia to Bob’s and then donated to the collection.

Trust us… he was gone so long. (Free Bob’s BMW hat to the first one who mails us with that reference) Okay, when you first look at this machine you say “WHAT?” – but it is amazing what a creative man can fabricate when the government doesn’t help.

The racing side of BMW is also formidably showcased as are street machines that you will rarely see elsewhere.

Then there is the 1954 MonoMoto, an amazing single wheel machine that won first prize at this past year’s Modern Classics Motorcycle Show at Martin Moto.

Page 15

We love this machine –it is unlike anything you have seen before – and it runs. Now if Mr. Henig would show us how to ride this we’d really be impressed.

We spent a good deal of time - personally shown around by Bob himself – who is an abundance of information and deep backstories making it a more special and simply remarkable place – especially if you are a lover of the German motorcycle.

Another most remarkable thing is that there is no charge to visit the Vintage BMW Museum– it is a courtesy of Bob’s BMW - where just sharing the huge history, memories and all things from Bayerische Motoren Werke is reward in itself.

The Vintage BMW Motorcycle Museum is open most Saturday mornings and by appointment.

All tours meet at Bob’s BMW and then typically head over to the museum around 10:00 am as a small group.

To make an appointment or to plan a group visit to the museum, call Bob at 301-497-8949 ex 218 or send an email to bob@bobsbmw.com.

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DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN

tasty places to take your bike

gourmeT gallery 31 MAIN ST., BLAIRSTOWN NJ 07825 • 908-362-0051 • WWW.GOURMETGALLERYCAFE.COM In the northwest corner of New Jersey, not far from where we call home here at Backroads Central, is the tiny burg of Blairstown.

This town always seems to have something happening and in the past it has also made cameos in a few feature movies – the original Friday the 13th was filmed in and around Blairstown. The Main Street has a happening concert venue (Roy’s Hall) as well as a small, sometimes, open museum.

It is also quickly becoming a hidden jewel of arts, crafts and imagery – which becomes very apparent when you drop by this month’s stop on the Great All American Diner Run – the Gourmet Gallery – where food is an art!

We were thinking about lunch the first Sunday in October – it was a glorious, if cool, day and being happy to live along all these magnificent backroads that this region offers we hopped on the 650s and went for a little lunch run south along County Road 521.

Although Blairstown is right off Route 94 that bisects the top of New Jersey and part of New York from the Delaware to the Hudson Rivers, the part of town you want to find – Main Street – is to the west just a block or two.

Usually there is something happening in this people-friendly town, but this Sunday was quiet and we took a parking spot right off the outside deck at the Gourmet Gallery.

In addition to the outside seating the place has a number of indoor rooms mostly adorned with local art and photography.

This day it was the incredible photography of Ami Shecter and Jim Figielski, good friends who are unsurpassed as photographers of nature in this part of the northeast. Check out their works on Facebook: www.facebook.com/paulinskillriverphotography

Surrounded by such wonderfully neat images it took awhile before we actually got around to looking at the menu instead – and the Gourmet Gallery’s has a lot to offer.

Paninis, sandwiches, wraps, griller, salads and sides.

Plenty for everybody’s tastes, we think.

You will find a Pulled Pork Sandwich - pulled pork with raspberry-chipotle barbecue sauce topped with jalapeno cilantro slaw. An Almond Chicken Salad Wrap that looks heavenly - a wonderful combination of chicken salad with scallions and salted roasted almonds, topped with fresh tomatoes and romaine.

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2017

Page 17 I ordered the Buzz Werkz, which came with house roasted turkey breast, bacon, Muenster cheese, coleslaw, tomato and a bit of Russian dressing on a ciabatta roll.

It was awesome, big and half of it came back to the office with us.

For you wrap people – they serve them up with turkey, chicken, BLT and tuna as well as buffalo-style and even tofu (But, we ain’t going there – sorry!)

Maybe we will take that back as the spicy Korean grilled tofu is powered by a marinade of sweet and spicy Korean sauce (not sure if it is North or South Korean), kimchi, fresh jalapenos, arugula, red onions and a Sriracha maple aioli on toasted multi-grain bread.

Okay, even we would give that a whirl. Especially if it was North Korean, as that would almost be forbidden fruit - like the Gourmet Gallery’s superb Cuban sandwich was before everyone got friendly a few years back. Their Cuban is really well done we must say.

While we are on the sriracha sauce we might have to make a return trip for the shrimp – breaded and fried, cheddar, some greens and reds thrown in. Yummy!

I must admit that I have become a salad guy after years of making fun of

salad guys. Yes, my bad.

So the Gourmet Gallery offers a Caesar, arugula and mixed greens, a house salad, a taco salad and a very cool sounding Sweet & Salty Salad that comes with baby greens, raisins, craisins, sunflower seeds, feta cheese, red onions (really tasty we might add) and a homemade dressing. You can add tofu, chicken or breaded shrimp to any of these.

They also seem to have a deep fryer and are not afraid to use it – fried pickles, cheddar cheese fries and other defibrillating delectable are to be had.

But, we did not come here this month to talk about any of these things.

No. we came to talk about chicken and waffles.

Yes, my friends – chicken and waffles.

The food of the Gods.

The Gourmet gallery had these on the menu this day and we have never seen such flaky, light and delicious waffled offerings. More puff pastry than anything else. Add in the wonderfully prepared fried chicken and fixin’s and we had the best W & C ever!

Nuff said.

Oh yes, one more thing. Enjoy the ride to the Gourmet Gallery as it is pretty delicious too!

(Rip & Ride on Page 44)

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Page 18

WE’RE OUTTA HER E

DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads CaTSkill mounTainS reSorT 211 MAIL RD, BARRYVILLE, NY 12719 845- 456-0195 • CATSKILLMOUNTAINSRESORT.COM Just when we thought we knew it all something new, at least to us, comes and tweaks our noses and peeks our interest.

Such was the case when we first heard about the Catskill Mountains Resort in Barryville, New York.

Barryville? Do not we know all about Barryville?

We guess not.

Many years back there was a gymnastic camp hidden up in the forests that run above Route 97 and the Delaware River. Called the Sokol Gymnastics Camp, the kids with Olympic dreams filling naptime came from near and far to be trained just north of where New Jersey, Pennsylvania and New York come together. The word “sokol” translates to falcon and is symbolic of the Sokol ideals: Courage, Strength, Endurance, Fraternalism, Love of democratic principles, and pride in country.

The organization that created this still thrives, but the property above the river sat dormant for a bit until it caught the eye of William Zaccari, his wife Gina, and partner Larry Rosner, who were looking for a place in this region that would have fine dining and lodging to accommodate the needs of travelers, tourists, weekenders and those who were part time homeowners in this scenic Delaware River Valley.

With this in mind, they purchased the old Sokol Gymnastics Camp.

Zaccari is a retired New York City firefighter, from Queens, and it was his thought to rekindle some of the getaway magic that once ruled this part of the southern Catskill Mountains that he remembered as a child.

Many of us remember coming up to this region as kids, but as time has passed it almost seems that the good times for the Catskills have passed as well. The Zaccaris’ and Rosner hope to turn that around.

We took a quick ride up there recently on a bright sunny Sunday, working our way up Mail Road found just off Route 97, near the bridge that crosses in Pennsylvania and Shohola.

Okay, we thought. We haven’t been on this road before. Mail Road actually comes up and around and the Catskill Mountains Resort was easily found.

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2017

Page 19

It is an impressive spread with a beautiful main house, a courtyard and a few cabins as well.

But, in addition to all this is the Catskill Mountains Resort location. This place is perfect for motorcycle riders, groups and couples looking for a place to make a base camp for a few days of riding with its easy access for exploration of the Catskills to the north, the Poconos across the river in Pennsylvania or into the backroads of the Skylands region of New Jersey.

With its great location the Catskill Mountains Resort has all the potential to becoming a center for local and traveling motorcycle riders.

In the old main house, which is really a small mansion, you will a number of well-appointed rooms - all well set for couples or single travelers. In this building you will The Mountainside Restaurant – an upscale dining experience whose menu runs a delicious combination of American and French Fusion, all created by Chef Pascal Bettig. The dining rooms are beautiful and inviting, as it the outdoor deck.

We heard the Sunday Brunch is splendid.

Just to the north of the main house you will find the Courtyard hotel annex, that has a more standard style motel rooms, and a large courtyard that has a number of sitting and fire pit areas. It is very nice touch.

Just across from there is the Olympic size salt-water swimming pool complete with Zack’s Tiki Bar; and who doesn’t love a poolside tiki bar on a warm and sunny afternoon after a day of riding with the bikes parked for the night?

On the farside of the property you will find the cabins – one being a large two-bedroom affair with sitting room and kitchenette as well.

Page 20

DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS These, too, have a nice porch and fire-pit sitting areas.

As the night progresses you might want to make your way to Zac’s Wilderness Lounge – a complete and large bar with everything you could want and then some. They also have a most excellent menu, from the bistro next door. Six different and deliciously creative, freshly made brick oven pizzas peaches, caramelized onions and speck. Speck? We love speck! They also have some of the best wings we have had in a long time – and we love good wings!

So there you have our new little secret (well not so little secret) – the Catskill Mountains Resort.

Room rates range from $129-$249 and they offer different packages as well. If you have tickets to a show at Bethel Woods… then this place is perfect.

Ride all day, park that evening, take a dip, have a beer then take “their” shuttle to the show and back and then get up and start riding.

The Catskill Mountains Resort has plenty to offer today’s rider…. from upscale amenities and dining, to cozy cabins and romantic mansion bedrooms and all of it is surrounded by some of the most pleasant roads in the northeast, making the Catskill Mountains Resort a great all around motorcycle destination any time of year.

(Rip & Ride Page 44)

The SpliT Banana 7 W BEVERLEY ST, STAUNTON, VA 24401 866-492-3668 • THESPLITBANANA.COM OPEN EVERY DAY NOON-11PM This coming spring Backroads will be heading south again, spending our first night on the road in Staunton, VA. We made a preliminary visit in October, on our way back from a wonderful two-day visit to CLASS at Virginia International Raceway, splitting up the long ride home and giving us the opportunity to sample what we discovered to be a great historic downtown. It has a nice mixture of shops, restaurants, historic landmarks and interesting museums.

But what I was most interested in was finding that perfect afternoon or after dinner dairy stop, and find it I certainly did. Situated along the main street of the historic district is the sweet spot of the Split Banana.

Stepping inside, you’ll find a colorful, clean whimsical environment with checkered tile floor, vinyl seats and stools and white Formica tables. The cases are filled with a variety of Boylan sodas and, of course, an assortment of homemade gelato and sorbet. Don’t ask for ice cream, as this is not on the menu.

What’s the difference, you ask? According to the Split Banana website it comes down to this: gelato is made and served with less air, less fat and at a higher temperature than typical American ice cream. Ice cream contains a minimum of 10% butterfat; anything less and it can’t be called ice cream. Gelato is made from whole milk compared to cream, bringing the butterfat content down to 3.5%. In addition ice cream has more air, which may give it a light, pleasant texture but reduces the vividness of the flavor. Serving gelato at a slightly warmer temperature is necessary due to its denseness, thus giving it the necessary texture and ability to transform such flavors as cappuccino and gianduia to perfection.

The Split Banana’s sorbets are very simple, as a proper sorbet should be: fruit, water and sugar. The secret is getting the proper balance of these three ingredients to produce the smooth, creamy substance served at 3 degrees Fahrenheit, the proper temperature. Due to this delicate

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2017

Page 21

balance, sorbets MUST be made daily and that’s what they do, in small batches, to guarantee the best quality and taste they can. Should you be visiting in the afternoon, you can witness the process for yourself.

Enough science stuff, let’s get to the actual tasting. We did a little predinner visit so I stuck to just two scoops of gelato – Espresso Biscotto and Cinnamon. The flavor and texture was just as described above and I certainly wished I had gone for the large. I did have a few sample scoops, in the name of journalism: the peppermint made me wish it was Christmas, the pumpkin pie had me yearning for Thanksgiving and the vanilla was as pure as the driven snow. From the smiles on Brian, Gary and Mike’s faces, I assumed that whatever flavors they had in their cups and cones were just as wonderful as mine. I was hoping that there was enough time after dinner to make a return visit to sample some of their fruitful sorbets but alas there was not. This will have to wait until my return in May, and you can believe that the Split Banana will be my very first stop when I get to Staunton.

Should you be passing through this area, do yourself a great favor and point your motorcycle to downtown Staunton and treat yourself to a scoop or four at the Split Banana – it’s some of the most flavorful and satisfying gelato (and I’m sure sorbet, too) I’ve had.

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DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Honda 2018 Gold Wing The Evolution of an Icon

On a very warm October evening atop a rooftop of the MOXI Museum of Exploration, in Santa Barbara, California, Honda held its worldwide introduction of the newest version of their flagship motorcycle – the Gold Wing.

One looks tells that the all-new Gold Wing takes cues from the legendary GL models that came before it while offering a lighter and more technologically advanced package with an all-new new engine, chassis, and electronics suite.

Offering a lighter, more agile, and more sophisticated version of this iconic motorcycle, the 2018 Gold Wing and Gold Wing Tour could set a new standard for the touring category.

The sportier nature of the 2018 Gold Wing and Gold Wing Tour is underlined by the bike’s sharper, more performance-minded shape, which also achieves a significant boost in aerodynamic efficiency.

The liquid-cooled, horizontally opposed six-cylinder engine is now 13.7 lbs. lighter when equipped with Honda’s six-speed manual transmission or Honda’s advanced, next-generation seven-speed automatic Dual Clutch Transmission (DCT), which includes forward/reverse Walking Mode.

Thanks to a lighter overall package and enhanced vehicle aerodynamics, which, Honda claims, leads to improved fuel efficiency. Honda’s engineers were able to reduce the fuel tank capacity by 1.1 gallons while retaining the

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Page 23

same great range as before.

The all-new Gold Wing chassis has undergone multiple revisions to increase low-speed maneuverability and maintain high-speed stability.

Suspension is comprised of a new and unique double-wishbone front-suspension system and Showa shock absorbers front and rear.

Brakes have been upgraded via radially mounted front six-pistoncalipers and larger, 320mm rotors. Electronically controlled combined ABS works to distribute braking force to the front and rear wheels while saving weight through the use of a smaller, lighter circulation-type ABS modulator.

Like many newer machines, the 2018 Gold Wing features a throttle-bywire system that has opened the door to four riding modes (Tour, Sport, Econ, and Rain), Honda Selectable Torque Control (HSTC), Hill Start Assist, and a finely tuned cruise-control system. Selecting the riding mode that’s best suited for the riding conditions is easily accomplished through the Gold Wing’s new controls, and then confirmed via a beautiful, 7-inch full-color Thin Film Transistor liquid-crystal display—one of the many features that bolster the model’s premium feel.

In an industry first, the 2018 Gold Wing also comes equipped with Apple CarPlay, which connects the motorcycle to the user’s iPhone to show maps, contacts, and music, all accessed through the motorcycle’s display.

LED technology is used throughout, with the multiple-lens front lights forming the new “wing lines” of this latest advanced performance touring model, and the LED turn signals having a convenient auto-canceling feature.

A user-friendly luggage system bolsters on-road convenience while also contributing to the vehicle’s compact dimensions, sporty appearance, and lighter weight. Each saddlebag holds 30 liters, while the top case has a 50 liter capacity, and high-quality lid dampers are used throughout.

The three 2018 Gold Wing Tour models—Gold Wing Tour, Gold Wing Tour DCT, and Gold Wing Tour DCT Airbag—are the modern interpretation of the classic Gold Wing, the ultimate long-distance touring machine, but with highly improved performance capabilities. Each of these models features saddlebags and a top case, as well as a tall electrically adjustable windscreen, front and rear speakers, and electrically adjustable suspension.

Boasting a sporty character, the two Gold Wing models—Gold Wing and Gold Wing DCT—come with saddlebags but no top case or the accompanying rear audio speakers. The electric windscreen is shorter on these models, and preload adjustment is manual. HSTC, electric damping-adjust, center stand, and heated grips are not included.

These bikes will roll into Honda showrooms in February and will run between $23,500 and $31,500 depending on model. Look for a complete ride review early this coming year.

Page 24

DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Tour de France • Riding Back through History

W

hile most of the riders in the Backroads region were craning their heads to the west to see the Great American Eclipse in the middle of August, Shira and I had planned our moves way in advance – and headed to Paris, France to meet up with the tourmeisters from Edelweiss and a few other temporary ex-pat Americans to do what the bike travel company called their Paris to Omaha tour – we called it our Tour de France.

On tours that head out of North America we have found it best to make time to get in a few days early. This allows acclimation to the local clock, so to speak, and – in a city as grand as Paris – the opportunity to do a little old fashioned sightseeing before getting on the bikes and beginning the tour.

with Edelweiss Bike Travel So that is what we did, staying right down the street from the Palace at Versailles and an easy and fairly quick run to the center of Paris.

Over the next three days we tried to squeeze in as much of the City of Lights as we could – the Palace, the Eiffel Tower, the museums – mostly using the RER, Metro and the excellent Open Air Tour Buses. yes, total tourists, but it got the job done.

By that Sunday afternoon we met the rest of our group and our guides, Tony and Malcolm, and got the first of many briefings before taking charge of our ride for the next few weeks – a 2017 BMW R1200RT, on which Shira and I would be two-up.

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DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Versailles to Tours For those of you who have never been on or read about organized motorcycle tours like those held by Edelweiss Bike Travel let me give you the daily goings on.

After breakfast there will be a morning meeting – going over the routes, options, places of interest and the general lay of the land. Shira and I consolidated our clothes and needed things into one bag and that went into the van that would take its own route to the hotel at the end of the day, and it would be in our room waiting when we got in each evening. This may seem a small thing, but it is part of the way Edelweiss has always done it, and is really handy at the end of a full day of riding.

Our journey this day would head west towards the Brittany region of France and along the Loire River (pronounced looR) - the longest river in France.

It also has some of the most beautiful castles along its way as well and we would make it a point to stop and see a few this day.

Our first stop was really a cathedral at Chartre.

Chartres Cathedral, also known as the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Chartres in French. Built between 1194 and 1220 it is a massive stone structure with huge flying buttresses and intricate stone workings. Truly amazing. Many Christian pilgrims come to worship its famous relic, the Sancta Camisa, said to be the tunic worn by the Virgin Mary at Christ’s birth.

We continued westward along the river valley, with a magnificent castle here and a splendid château there, on both banks of the water. You know… the usual.

We did make it a point to stop and visit one in particular.

Begun back in 1519, this palace would rise up out of the swampy lowlands of the Sologne region, on the edge of a forest filled with wild boar. François I, the young king who had garnered glory in the Battle of Marignan, ordered its construction and today Château de Chambord is truly one of the most glorious and the largest châteaus in France and an iconic image of centuries past.

Along the grounds there are shops and restaurants and a filling French lunch of chilled soups, cured meats and salads was to be had before exploring the palatial grounds and the château itself.

Horses paraded by with men and women in 16th century character, carrying the flair of Chambord some five centuries back.

Still, walking around the grounds you will be reminded of the 20th century, as the walls of the château are pitted with bullet holes from both World Wars.

On a better note it is in this region that the Chambord Liqueur Royale de France is made and can be found around the planet.

Before we left Shira found a stand selling macarons and café frappe - a nice way to sit and end the visit to the great château.

Our ride along the river would bring us past caves, cliffs and by many bridges that went nowhere - ending at the riverside - destroyed early in the Second World War in an attempt to stop the German advance.

Today this tragic history was balanced by miles of sunflower fields, just a few days past their prime.

Our ride would end this day in the town of Tours with its beautiful fountains and, unfortunately, a bit of late afternoon traffic looking to get home.

Tours to Angers (via LeMans!)

When you’re racing, it’s life. Anything that happens before or after… is just waiting.

Steve McQueen - Lemans France is usually cooler this time of the year, but the heat was on this day as we continued westward, but not before an all important (at least to me) stop at the Circuit de LeMans.

But first we followed our guide Malcolm as he brought us out of the city and right into some very pleasant French backroads.

Passing through forest and farmland and by one exquisite “small” château, we stopped in a tiny town square for morning café de crème. Around the square were three older automobiles belonging to some Scots who had come down for a bit of a drive around the French countryside. The interior of the café showed dozens of racecars and it was very apparent we were nearing the center of the French racing world!

In short time Shira and I were quickly running through the gears, breaking the ton, along the Mulsanne Straight - the part of the track that runs on public roads before riding into the track complex itself.

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Another bucket list item checked.

I’ve been enthralled with LeMans since I was a young boy, watching Michael Delaney’s (Steve McQueen) exploits in the film of the same name.

Here at this track the world’s most famous motor race is run – the 24 Hours of LeMans called by some the “Grand Prix of Endurance and Efficiency.”

The 24 Hours race has run continually (except for WWII) since 1923. The track envelops the town itself, although there are other circuits in the main facility – most notably the Circuit Bugatti.

This day we found local motorcycle club races were being held. We took a few hours to stroll through the phenomenal museum with its dozens of historic racecars, displays and LeMans memorabilia.

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We walked part of the track and watched some of the bikes do laps and then crossed over the famous Dunlop bridge. I was in heaven and I kept hearing Steve’s voice echoing in my head. If you have never seen the film LeMans please do – it is the greatest race film ever made. Period.

We reluctantly geared up and got going, following Malcolm back into the French countryside and eventually to the city of Angers.

Keeping with the previous day’s boozy stop…in Angers they make Cointreau – that orangey liquor that sits up on the shelf of every good bar.

It also has an old medieval fortress made of black stone, complete with moat and drawbridge, which holds the Apocalypse Tapestry – at over 100 yards long it is the largest in the world and it portrays the Book of Revelations, which was well worth searching out.

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Angers to Carnac There were a few things that stood out and intrigued us when we looked at the overview on this tour. First, although we have ridden in France a number of times, it had always been to the south in the Pyrenees or east into the Alps.

Paris, Brittany and Normandy were yet unknown to us. The second thing that appealed to us was some of the highlights of this Edelweiss tour – including the castles, château, fortresses and LeMans (of course) and later on the D-Day sites in Normandy.

But, along with the places we’d see later on the tour, we would be heading into Brittany proper and making a lunch stop today in the town of SaintNazaire. Saint-Nazaire, found at the mouth of the Loire River, has become famed for its port and ship building – The QE-2 was built here – and AirBus is located not too far from the town.

But, what we had come for would relate directly to the Second World War and the Nazi occupation of this region. As we approached the Atlantic Ocean and the mouth of the Loire Shira commented on the fortress ahead of us.

This was no fortress, but the reason for our visit.

During the war Hitler wanted to fortify the coast and thus created what became known as the Atlantic Wall. The fortifications included colossal coastal guns, batteries, mortars and artillery, and thousands of German troops were stationed in its defenses and almost a million French workers were drafted to build it.

Here in Saint-Nazaire the Nazis built a mammoth submarine base, using nearly a half million cubic feet of concrete. The place is enormous.

We toured some of the sub pens and then crossed over to the main building that now houses the French submarine “Espadon” – which means Swordfish.

We toured the boat and made a quick run around the giant concrete structure, noting the now empty placements that once held anti-aircraft weaponry, machine guns and mortars. In the distance we could see the long Pont de SaintNazair bridge and a new cruise ship nearing completion.

If this was in the U.S. I am sure O’Life would be all over this place, but we’d have something for the good Doctor come the following day.

After lunch we headed up into the backroads of Brittany, where the signs began to have two spellings for each direction, as the people of Brittany speak a slightly different, and a bit more Celtic, language than the rest of France – and they are proud of it.

We made a quick stop this day along the Guérande Pennisula where the land has two distinct qualities – one being the Pays Blanc (the white land) and the other being Pays Noir (the black land) the difference being one is made up of salt marshes and the other dark peat bogs.

These salt marshes have been harvested since the 9th century and create some amazing tonnage of salt each year, including their famous Fleur de Sel –

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which contains a number of minerals and algae and more flavor than regular table salt. It is considered one of the best in the world and we made sure to bring some home to have a head to head against our favorite salt from West Virginia.

By early evening, as our gaggle of riders rolled into the small town of Carnac, we could see a long field of standing stones right along the roadside. This was another one of the sites we truly needed to see, as the megalithic stones here, like Stonehenge in England, have had scholars and historians scratching their collective heads for centuries.

The next two nights we stayed at a boutique hotel alongside the Tumulus of St. Michael. Although there is a church atop it, the site is really a burial mound dating back nearly 6,500 years; yet another mystery to be looked into while here in Brittany.

Tomorrow was a free day for us and we hoped to channel our best innerSeymour O’Life and drink in the energy of these enigmatic stones.

Free Day in and around Carnac The megalithic Stones at Carnac are a true mystery.

Over 3,000 stones and dolmens can be found here and many of them are in perfect alignment with each other, like soldiers on the march.

Local myth states that a Roman legion was on the march when the wizard Merlin turned them into stone and that is why they are in a straight line.

The truth is they were raised between 4,000 and 6,500 years ago.

Although Stonehenge is far more well known, size-wise it cannot compare to the fields of megaliths here in Brittany.

In the morning we took a quick walk to the top of the Tumulus at dawn and then rode over to the stones, well before the crowds that would flood the area later that day. From atop the stone tower that was more recently con-

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structed you could see the alignments clearly with the stones stretching for a very long way. We were all amazed that they had not been totally disturbed or knocked down over the centuries.

With a free day, and with half of the riders staying around town, we sped away into the Brittany countryside with a smaller group than the previous day’s outings. We rode to the coast and then along the Atlantic for a bit, occasionally spotting German pillbox gun nests that still remain along the forests on the beaches, these days covered with graffiti from modern spraypaint Picassos.

Our guide brought us to the Basilique Sainte-Anne d’Auray, another impressive Catholic cathedral, before just going for a spirited and fun ride though the French countryside with roads that were a bit on the small side, but made up for that with great views, easy sweepers and fairly good pavement.

Definitely the best day’s ride of the trip so far!

We got back to Carnac in the early afternoon, with me dragging Shira back to the standing stones and taking in the different fields of them before finding a filling lunch of oysters and fish along the coast.

The afternoon was finished with a walk around the tiny town and a short stroll around the Prehistoric Museum found there.

That evening fellow riders Mike and Carla decided to throw a little cocktail party.

When I saw the spread these two had put out and heard the Jimmy Buffett blazing I knew that some were going to the Brittany version of Margaritaville this day.

For us we stuck around for a bit and then strolled back into town which had been closed to traffic, transforming the village into a bazaar

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with a throng of locals and tourists filling the streets and alleys around the central church and dozens of vendors selling handmade crafts and trinkets.

A band was playing local traditional music, very much in the Celtic flair, and we sat and had another dozen oysters, which had been plucked just an hour before from the French Atlantic. We watched the locals dance to the music, some men and women, but mostly pairs of gals from young to seasoned all in synchronicity with each other’s steps and moves. It was marvelous and I wished more local towns at home would have things like this each week.

Late that night we walked arm in arm back up to the Tumulus.

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Carnac to Roscoff Although the previous day’s ride was quite brilliant, Tony told me that this day’s ride would be much more than that and he was right, as Edelweiss mixed together a great day of historic and scenic locales and laced them together with some very pleasant tarmac all the way from the southern coast to the rocky shore of the English Channel to the north.

For Shira, our Cooper Union alumni, one of the high points on the tour would be a stop in the town of Pont-Aven.

Until the mid-19th century, Pont-Aven, named after the river that runs through it, was known for its mills and its port.

With the advent of the railways along came tourism and in the 1860s some painters discovered the village. Word spread throughout the artistic community about its merits and in 1886 Paul Gauguin arrived for the first of several stays; in 1888 he met fellow artist Émile Bernard and the post-impressionist art movement, which focused on color and symbolism, was born.

Pont-Aven is still a haven for the arts and, although a bit more touristy these days, it is still a beautiful part of France.

We continued along the coastal area, swinging around to the north and to the medieval town of Locronan, named after

Saint Ronan, who was venerated in Brittany and is considered by many to be the most beautiful of ancient French towns. It really was a pleasure to amble its cobblestone streets, to take in the church and walk through the cemetery. The stone architecture was really fascinating and it seemed, with some buildings, that they were thought up and built by different people at different times. In past centuries the town was known for its hemp, exported internationally, as it was used for rigging the ships, both commercial and military, that operated from Brittany’s many ports.

Not too far down the road we were treated to the traditional Edelweiss picnic lunch, this time along a beautiful inlet to the sea that smelled of the sea and salt. Once again our guides Malcolm and Tony did a stellar job and the Edelweiss picnic is a much anticipated part of their tours.

The afternoon’s ride brought us along the most agreeable pieces of pavement, nothing too technical at all, but nice wide sweeping turns across the rolling farmlands of Brittany.

This would be our most western part of this tour and, as if to celebrate this region, we rode up Ménez Hom, a thousand foot hill that offers a fantastic panorama of the countryside and the Atlantic.

The view was a breathtaking setting to say our goodbyes to Brittany, as we would head into the Normandy region the next day. But not before a late afternoon stop at a local apple cider farm to stock up on some regional delights for that evening.

By early evening we rode into the small coastal town of Roscoff, right on the English Channel. I have traveled a lot in France and in England, but this was the first time I had ridden to this waterway that has been so im-

portant through the centuries of man’s history – from ancient times to D-Day to the Chunnel.

Roscoff, where you could if you wish, pick up ferry service to both England (112 miles) and Ireland, was a happening little town. The restaurants were plentiful, a British Rockabilly band was doing their best Stray Cats impression and we even got to sing Happy Birthday to one of our own.

Happy Birthday Larry!

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Roscoff to Saint Malo Today’s ride was promised to be a bit longer than previous day’s romps so we made sure to get going around 8:30, right after breakfast with a wide view of the Channel and its rocky coast.

The jaunt this day would follow the Channel eastward along and through tiny, and some not so tiny, Brittany towns – all with the now familiar French coastal charm and flair.

Coffee stops were made, and lunch of local, fresh seafood enjoyed across from a harbor filled with pleasure craft.

The roads themselves were getting more and more interesting as the coastal shore consisted of cliffs, hills and valleys all leading to the sea to the north.

One very interesting side trip that Malcolm made was bringing the group to one of the most unique locations for a home we have ever seen. In the Côtes-d’Armor region, near the quiet little village of Plougrescant, you will find the Castel Meur, also known as La Maison du Gouffre or “the house between the rocks.” It is a charming cottage wedged between two huge jagged rocks that has been drawing travelers and the simply curious for years.

The house has her back turned towards the sea, against which her owner sought to protect her by building the house in a cradle between the two rocks to shield her from the violent storms that frequent this place. The tiny house was built in 1861, at a time when building permits did not exist, where anyone could build at will.

After the death of her original owner, Castel Meur served as the second home to the descendant’s family who lived here sporadically. The current occupant, the granddaughter of the first master of the house, has lived here since 2004 after selling her business in America and returning back to France.

Eventually we made our way up the narrow road along the cliffs to Frechel Cape, with its tower to climb and panoramic vistas of the pink granite cliffs, the sea and the region.

By now it was late afternoon and we needed to get to our hotel for the night in Saint Malo and from here it was a fairly short ride, but Shira and I would steal one more quick stop at the world’s first, and one of just two, industrial tidal power stations on the planet - The Rance Tidal Power Station.

Opened in 1966, the station, located on the Rance Estuary River, offers the interested a free tour of the museum and a close up view of the 24 huge turbines that create over 500 gigawatt hours of power each year and powers half of Brittany.

It began mankind’s charge for renewable energy.

That night we stayed at a Channel-side hotel overlooking the town’s slate roof spires, tightly packed stone buildings and the sea. We learned that this town was almost completely destroyed in the 1940s and they certainly have rebuilt in an appealing manner.

Our dinner that evening was a wonderfully fishy affair, with different soups, seafood salad, crabs, oysters and shrimp being served and this was followed by a most splendid sunset over the English Channel.

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Saint Malo to Arromanches We were now deep into Normandy and heading towards the historic landings of DDay. Along the town squares you began to see more and more monuments honoring this turning point in the Second World War. But, before we rode into our recent past we travelled back a few more centuries with a long morning stop at Mont Saint Michel.

Although we had been to some very beautiful and impressive castles, monuments, cathedrals and places of natural beauty – it is hard to compare anything or anyplace with Mont Saint Michel.

The worship of Saint Michel was introduced on the Mount in 708, after a Bishop Aubert d’Avranches had a vision of the Arch Angel Michael and it became one of the most important places of medieval pilgrimage. Benedictine monks started building an abbey here in the 10th century.

From 966 onwards, the dukes of Normandy, followed by French kings, supported the development of a major Benedictine abbey on Mont-Saint-Michel. Magnificent monastic buildings were added through medieval times, one lofty section being nicknamed The Marvel. The Abbey became a renowned center of learning, attracting some of the greatest minds and manuscript illuminators in Europe. Vast numbers of pilgrims visited, despite warring cross-Channel royals. However, the ramparts at the base of the island were built to keep English forces out.

It took nearly a thousand years to become what it is today – a truly fortified abbey that has been sieged many times over the centuries. As the centuries passed other buildings went up along the steep village streets and many are now converted into museums, hotels, restaurants and shops for today’s travelers.

We parked the bikes early that day and spent a few hours touring and exploring the

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abbey, the turrets, the dungeon (always a happy place) and the museums that were to be found.

Lunch was had at one of the most famous restaurants in France - La Mère Poulard - famed for its giant omelets that are several inches thick, made whipped in handhammered copper bowls, and cooked over an open fire.

More a soufflé than your traditional omelet, they are huge, and so was the bill. Neither of us had ever had a $40 plate of eggs before – even with lagostinos or smoked bacon and potato or smoked salmon with Camembert cheese.

But, we had never ordered in a thousand year old fortified abbey either.

From here we followed Tony, whose turn it was to lead this day, along some of the more challenging roads we had ridden so far.

Like a great fireworks show or an orchestral movement that gets bigger, better and more vibrant as it moves along, so it is was with Edelweiss’ Paris to Omaha Tour here in France.

Each day the sights got grander, the food more delicious, and the roads more fun.

We stopped for coffee in the town of Aunay.

Along the building I spied a plaque etched into the stone telling the fate of the town just after D-Day. On June 12 two waves of aircraft destroyed all of the town center killing a hundred people. On the night of June 14 to 15 the town was totally destroyed by a new wave of bombing leaving only the bell tower standing in the smoking rubble. Twentyfive percent of Aunay people were killed in this action.

The town was quickly rebuilt but, looking at the images on the wall of the café, we were reminded of how terrible this war was.

This would be brought home more fully the next day as we toured the beaches of Normandy. Tonight we stayed in the town of Arromanches, also known as Port Winston Churchill.

A sobering Free Day along the coast of Normandy • June 6, 1944 D-Day The previous evening, after dinner, we walked the beach at sunset taking in the port town that was key with the liberation of Western Europe after DDay. Along the beach we could see and walk around the staggeringly big floating concrete caissons that were towed over from Britain in June 1944 and still remain here from the Mulberry Harbor, the artificial harbor thought up by Winston Churchill, that the British built to funnel machinery and fuel to Allied forces in France.

Just off the shore we could still see remains of the large concrete structures that formed the breakwater and there is a section of the Mulberry lying on the sand, still soaking wet from the ebbing tide.

It was a tremendous feat of engineering.

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In the morning two private guides, hired to give us a morning tour of the largest maritime invasion in the history of our planet, picked us up at our hotel and we rode over to Pointe du Hoc. Here the Allies bombed it to smithereens before sending 225 handpicked US Army Rangers to assault its cliffs, using grappling hooks and ladders from London fire departments.

We walked among the craters that still dominate the cliffs and heard how the Americans climbed the cliffs under heavy enemy fire and, after a long and close battle, took Pointe du Hoc after using an American flag to wave off an attack run of Allied fighters. When they took the Pointe there were only 90 Rangers left standing.

We then headed to Omaha Beach, where things were as bad as they could get on this June day. The beach was heavily mined and booby-trapped, the cliffs were full of Nazi machine gun placements. Of the 156,000 soldiers that landed on June 6th, 1944 nearly 9,000 were casualties that first day.

It could only be described as Hell on Earth.

It is a place of remembrance and honor.

This peaceful day we sat on the beach for a while and watched families enjoy the summer sun. A little girl splashed in the water with her mom. A young woman and a small girl galloped horses across the sand.

We made time to visit the American cemetery where over 9,000 Americans are buried – their Christian crosses and Jewish stars stark white against the cloudless blue sky this day; the English Channel, now empty of war ships and warriors, lapping quietly against the shores of Normandy.

We walked amongst the markers quietly speaking each name that we saw – it felt like the thing to do here; maybe, some how, a way to say what we were feeling inside.

Our friends Paul and Connie, who were travelling with us, were especially moved, as were we all. Paul, a U.S. Marine (you are always a Marine – Semper Fi Paul) was especially taken with it all.

With its deep history, deep meaning and deeper blood the beaches at Normandy are almost overwhelming and should never be missed if you travel to this part of France.

After our tour Shira and I do what we do best on these trips and took off on our own – first heading to the town of Bayeux to see the 950 year old, 230 foot long Bayeux Tapestry.

Fittingly enough this historic relic tells the story of yet another invasion – this time in the year 1066 when William the Bastard, the head of the Normans, would defeat Harold Godwinson – self-appointed King of England at the Battle of Hastings.

The story, as told through the audio guides, was very informative and entertaining as we moved from panel to panel. This was every bit as serious as the battle some 878 years later. We were both enthralled by this story and it brought the prominence of this region through out the years.

Riding back into our more recent past we rode the BMW west to Sainte Mere Eglise where the US 82nd Airborne Division had a fateful landing on the town. There is a museum dedicated to our Airborne here as well as a very interesting church in the town square. Atop the steeple you will see a paratrooper hanging by his parachute from the top of the church. Although it might look odd, it relates to a very true story from that night.

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DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS It was the middle of the night and the town of Sainte Mere Eglise was on fire. Occupied by the Germans since June 18, 1940, the town had survived several allied air raids. A stray incendiary bomb from one of those raids had set a building near the town square on fire and it was spreading. The townspeople formed a chain to ferry water from the pump in the town square to the fire.

At about 1:30 a.m. that day, June 6, 1944, the sky filled with hundreds of American paratroopers from the 82nd Airborne Division.

Well lit by the flames beneath them, the paratroopers were easy targets

for the startled German soldiers on the ground. One of those paratroopers was Pvt. John Steele of F Company, 3rd Battalion, 505th Parachute Infantry Regiment. Steele was already a combat veteran, with combat jumps into Italy and Sicily under his belt prior to D-Day. During his landing, Steele’s parachute became caught in the steeple of the church in the middle of the town square.

Shot through the foot, Steele hung there for two hours pretending to be dead before the Germans noticed him and cut him down.

John was taken prisoner and his leg taken care of. He escaped and three days later joined the Allied lines, being transferred to a hospital in England.

If you have ever seen the film The Longest Day, John Steele was portrayed by actor Red Buttons. It is an amazing story, one of many that day.

However, despite all setbacks, by 04:30 on the morning of June 6th the Stars & Stripes flag was flying proudly over Sainte Mère Église, which became the first town in France to be liberated.

Also found in this church are two other interesting things, one being a pair of wonderful stained glass windows, donated by US Airborne soldiers. One is of Saint Michael, the patron saint of paratroopers. He is descending from the heavens on his wings with sword in hand. The other the Virgin Mary with child and Airborne paratroopers floating around her.

Very fitting.

The other is a Roman-times marker of stone outside that church. This ancient Roman marker has absolutely nothing to do with D-Day. These were used to mark every 1,481 meters of the road from England to Rome. For as the saying goes, “All roads lead to Rome.”

We started back to Port Churchill, but spent some time at Utah Beach, a battle that went far better for the Americans and Allies than Omaha.

By evening we had ridden back to Arromanches – we were out just after dawn and back at dusk – in our own way it was our longest day too.

Arromanches to Étretat We would have a far shorter ride this day as we cut across Normandy heading ever further east to what is known as the Pegasus Bridge that crosses the Caen Canal, between Caen and Ouistreham, right outside the town of Bénouville.

As Operation Overlord began the British Parachute Regiment landed, well… more like crash landed, a number of large Horsa Gliders late in the evening of June 5th – the day before the landing. Each carried 30 plus men and a fierce and close battle ensued as the British took the bridge, ensuring control of this part of the canal. This was yet another story I had never heard before and the entire operation was so outrageous and brave that it is amazing how successful it was.

As forward moving Allied troops met up with the Parachute Regiment, a lone Scottish piper, Bill Millin, led the way…with his bagpipes proudly playing…the way it should be.

The British Parachute Regiment wear the emblem of Bellerophon riding the flying horse Pegasus on their shoulders, and the bridge is so now named in their honor.

The museum here was well worth the stop as was sitting for a cup of coffee at the Café Gondree, considered the first place to be liberated in Operation Overlord and D-Day. We then rode back to the coast and into the very picturesque town of Honfleur. This town was, remarkably, untouched by the war and today the buildings are as they were before the conflict.

The very interesting thing about this town is that years back they levied taxes by how wide the building was. Thus everyone built these narrow, multi-story buildings, which makes for an excellent photo op these days.

The lunch of fruits de mer (fruit of the sea) today was the best we have had on a trip that was a constant culinary delight. Af-

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terward we strolled the old port and took a spin on the giant Ferris wheel to get a bird’s eye view of Honfleur.

We got into Étretat that afternoon, taking our rooms at a very nice resort hotel with a grand view of the white chalk cliffs that were painted many times by Claude Monet. Known locally as Côte d’Albâtre they made for a striking end of the day and our final night on the road for this tour, as tomorrow we would motor back to Versailles.

The rest of this day would be spent along the lawn, in chairs, with adult beverages with the most magnificent view.After a truly tasty dinner we watched from our room as a storm moved in with a fireworks display of lightning and thunder - the first rains since our journey began.

Étretat to Versailles This would be the tour’s final day on the road as our trip would swing back to Versailles later that day, but there were kilometers to be done and a few very interesting place to see on our way. The midnight tempest that came rambling through the area had moved on, but left a murky mist that would dog us most of this day. Still one iffy and wet day, after all the glorious sunshine, was a small price to pay.

We picked up the River Seine and rode along it a bit to the city of Rouen and a quick visit to Jumièges Abbey – although now in ruins it is still considered one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in the world.

Some stayed to explore, but Shira and I had other plans as our artist in residence is a lover of the works of Claude Monet and his home, studio and gardens were not that far off in the town of Giverny - so we struck out on our own for a visit with Monet.

The town was easy enough to find and we uncovered a delectable lunch amongst a flowered café before taking a long walk around the famed artist’s home and property. Monet’s gardens were breathtaking as were his famed water lilies. The house is exactly the way it was when the artist lived here and I was amazed at how freely they

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let us walk around and enjoy it. Sitting in the garden taking it all in we could see how and where much of his brilliant inspiration was found.

All good things must come to an end and, saying goodbye to Monet and Giverny, we punched up Versailles on the Garmin and by later afternoon, fighting a bit more traffic than we had gotten use to, we rode past the palace and to the hotel where we had started this tour some ten days before.

Final Thoughts Edelweiss’ From Paris to Omaha Tour was a bit different for us.

Many times our journeys are about some distant point of land, or perhaps it is the fantastic and technical riding, or striking terrain to be found.

But this tour was about the culture, history and romance of France.

From the château at Chambord to the stones at Carnac, down the Mulsanne Straight at LeMans to the magnificence of Mont Saint Michel, the humbling experience to visit the D-Day sights in Normandy to the beautiful art of Monet – this tour taught us, told us and showed us so much more than any other motorcycle journey we have been on before.

And, the riding was a happy time as well.

If you are looking for a few weeks in Europe that will challenge your riding abilities and throw curve after curve at you – well, the people at Edelweiss will happily bring you to Alps! But, if you wish to spend a couple of weeks, with some very pleasant riding, taking in the brilliance, history and majesty that is France then we highly recommend From Paris to Omaha – you will not be disappointed.

Viva la France!

You can find out more about this tour, and all the other great destinations that Edelweiss Bike Travel has to offer on their website: edelweissbiketravel.com. For more personal perusal, ask them for one of their new catalogues – it’s great winter reading.

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Holiday Gift Ideas from Simple to Stupendous UNDER $100 (grab bag, office Santa, last minute) Three Books for Santa’s list…One will make you think. One will make you wonder. And, the last will make you wonder how the author was still actually around to get a book published…twice!

WHY WE RIDE BY DR. MARK BARNES Soon after launching his career as a clinical psychologist in 1992, Mark (or Dr. Barnes, depending on how formal this should be) merged his interest in people with his life-long passion for motorcycling by writing about the human dimension of riding and working on bikes for enthusiast magazines. He settled in as a regular contributor to Motorcycle Consumer News in 1996; since then, 200 (and counting) of his monthly columns have explored wide-ranging psychological aspects of the motorcycling experience.

Having ridden extensively both on- and off-road, sampling racetracks and virtually every type of bike in the process, Mark has amassed a wealth of observations and insights over four-plus decades of involvement. That personal history, coupled with his training as a scientist, clinician and communicator, has allowed Mark to capture in words the elusive physical, emotional and interpersonal elements that make the world of the motorcyclist such a rich and exciting place.

If you are a lover of Barnes’ columns as we are this is a must have book. $24.99 from Amazon and other booksellers.

ATLAS OF THE UNTAMED WORLD BY CHRIS FITCH It is a big world out there kids and even the most intrepid explorer and ADV rider would have a hard time seeing it all. That is where a superb book like Atlas of the Untamed World - An Extraordinary Journey Though Our Wild World comes in. Embark on an excellent journey through some of the wildest and most fearsome landscapes, feral environments and the untouched and inhospitable places on the planet. You know… the fun places to be found on Earth!

This book will let you travel through historic habitats, untouched lands and voyage to truly bizarre and wonderful locales. It has 45 superb maps, great photography and it all can be experienced vicariously from your arm chair. If you are a fan of O’Life’s Mysterious America then you will enjoy Atlas of the Untamed World. Around $20 from the usual book sources. ~ Brian Rathjen CONVERSATIONS WITH A MOTORCYCLE BY JACK RIEPE Occasionally we send a story over to the BMW MOA magazine (excellent, BTW) and when they asked for a short bio on Brian, he said he wanted to grow up to be Jack Riepe.

Riepe has been writing his monthly column for years in the BMW mag and it is always one of the first things we turn to when we get the publication.

In Conversations with a Motorcycle, Riepe could have stolen the previous book’s title as he does live in an untamed and hysterical world – New Jersey – which Jack talks about a great deal and it is rare that a book has had us laughing out

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DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

loud – but Conversations with a Motorcycle did this every time it was picked up.

This book, that has five appendixes on New Jersey, does for the Garden State what Nothing But Trouble did for Jersey on film. But it’s not just about New Jersey – there is plenty of chaotic mayhem in Reipe to go around the entire east coast and then some. It reads a bit like Jim Caroll’s Basketball Diaries – just without the violence, drugs and sex. Jack makes a great attempt at the sex part but, other than the pony gal with the nice jodhpurs, he is a better writer than Don Juan.

Oh, and the book really is about motorcycles and riding – really! Sometimes we think the talkative bike in this read (a green Kawi H2) is far smarter than Jack – and we think he would admit to this.

If you are familiar with Jack Riepe’s BMW ON column then you know the satirical charm, wit and candor that he brings to the written page. (Yes, I just used Riepe and charm in the same sentence. It can be done.)

If you are looking for a book that you can read chapter by enjoyable chapter, give Jack Riepe’s Conversations with a Motorcycle a shot – we’re still laughing!

The book is $20, plus S&H. It can be ordered at jackriepe.com. ~ Brian Rathjen

WHEN THE ROAD ENDS - THE TALE OF AN INCREDIBLE JOURNEY BY DYLAN SAMARAWICKRAMA AND MARTINA ZUERCHER The Pan American Highway spans 19,000 miles, and three continents. However, no Pan American Highway story is complete without a ubiquitous tale of the Darien Gap. For most riders, the pesky 100 miles of formidable territory connecting South America to Central America is merely a financial penalty as you ship your bike via cargo either by air or sea. Dylan sets out befriending modern-day pirates to build a pontoon boat powered by his motorcycle. He finally departs Colombia under the cover of darkness, and his nautical skills are tested to the brink as he doesn’t even know a dolphin from a shark. It amazed me how despite the setbacks, it did not prevent him from being sanguine! A must read for all Ride-The-World adventurers, which will leave you pondering your own ability to create the same optimism in life and when traveling on 2-wheels. Available from Amazon for $30. ~ Dana Beisner

BEAD RIDER We put one of these beaded wonders on our BMW R1200GS early in the spring of this year and have never taken it off – except to use it on long-term test machines with saddles of stone. The Bead Rider is really something you would want under the tree this Christmas. It makes daylong trips on your motorcycle a purely pleasurable experience and every day a riding holiday… and we are speaking as one of the converted. We were more than a bit surprised at how much we have taken a liking to this product. Available in both reinforced ceramic composite beads ($59) and natural wooded beads ($37) Log onto www.beadrider.com to find out more.

HELMET-HOLDER.COM Occasionally jackets or leathers get hung up and your helmet might have a special place as well. Sometimes your helmet just hangs on a bike mirror in neglect.

We have found a simple, clean and elegant product to not only store but to display your helmet and/or gear.

Simply mount the Helmet-Holder to a wall, using four screws, and you will never have to worry about it again. It holds the helmet so well that it is almost impossible to knock off.

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2017

Page 39

Great for the garage, trailer, home, even your office. Made from 3/16” (4.75mm) thick aluminum-magnesium alloy to withstand the test of time and abuse.

Now with an optional Jacket Hook you can put all your gear in one spot. Most of us spend hundreds of dollars on our riding gear and this is the best way to treat them. For that one time your helmet might do its intended job, they deserve all the care we can give them.

Protect your investment for only $34.50 for the standard Helmet Holder and $36.50 for the Helmet & Jacket Holder. Available in gloss black powder-coat or brushed aluminum. Log onto www.helmet-holder.com to order yours today.

TOURATECH USA PRIMERO ALPINE BASE LAYER SHIRT + PANTS Living in the area we do, riders must prepare themselves for the coming of the ‘dark times’, or what we call winter. There are those who resignedly stabilize their rides, clean off the accumulated road dirt and cover them until the shoots start popping up in the garden. But many more of us will keep them active, stealing those mild days for a quick ride between sunrise and set. Of course, there are the Polar Bears, who forge ahead like the US Postal Workers used to do – rain, sleet, hail or gloom of night. No matter your cold-weather preference for riding, it always helps to think in layers, and Touratech USA has just that.

The Primero Alpine Base Layers (shirt and pants) for men and women are a very lightweight, highly breathable dual-layer material, with antistatic effect and wicking ability to keep your skin warm and dry. The cold-weather base layer shirt features a collar with front zipper – with the top of the zipper tucking inside a flap to keep the sharp edge off your neck. The seams are practically non-existent so there’s no chaffing or rubbing in the wrong areas. Flexchannel stretch zones at the shoulders, elbows, underarms and sides panels offer the ultimate range of movement to prevent bunching. The hi-viz piping adds an attractive touch, as does the Touratech logo on the collar.

I tried them out the first slightly chilly day we had at the end of September, heading out for a short lunch ride with the temperatures ranging from mid-50 to low-60. The Alpine Base Layer is super soft on the skin, fitting quite well. (They do suggest going up a size from what you normally wear, as they do run small). I had on a large set, which fit snugly but not to the point of compression, as it should. The pants are cut on the long side (on my 5’4” frame with 30” inseam there was a bit of extra material, but nothing uncomfortable). I opted out of a t-shirt over the base layer and left the vents open on my outer riding gear, which brought in a slightly cool breeze while riding. After my lunch stop, I did zip up and found the Alpine to keep me at just the right temperature.

I also used them for my two days at CLASS at Virginia Inter’l Raceway. The first day was cool and damp but warmed up to the high 60s, and the second day started with frost on the grass, again gaining temperature altitude to the high 60s by afternoon. The Alpine set were perfect throughout the day, with only a bit of overheating once I was done on the track at the end of the day.

The Primero Alpine base layer is a great addition to anyone’s riding apparel – useful in autumn and spring – and takes up practically no room in any motorcycle luggage. It comes attractively packaged, with inspiring images to help you, as Queen said, ‘get on your bike and ride.’ Would surely make a great holiday gift for you or your riding buddies. Womens: S-L • Mens: M-2XL • $69.95 Shirt • $49.95 Pants. Find the Primero Alpine Base Layer, and all of Touratech’s fine products, on the web at www.touratech-usa.com ~ Shira Kamil

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DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

ABOUT $200 (someone you know + like, better stocking stuffer) NATIONAL CYCLE’S VSTREAM® WINDSCREENS FOR KTM MOTORCYCLES National Cycle makes VStream Windscreens from tough hardcoated polycarbonate. This high quality material, along with state-of-the-art manufacturing techniques, provides distortion-free optics, high strength, and scratch resistance unmatched by any windscreen maker worldwide. Hardcoated polycarbonate is the material of choice for serious motorcycle riders.

Polycarbonate has impact resistance 20X greater than windscreens on the market made from commonly used acrylic or “aircraft plastic”.

Now available for KTM 2014-16 1190 Adventure/R, 2017 1090 Adventure/R, 2014-16 1050 Adventure. Prices range from $175 to $195 depending on size. VStream Windscreens are easy to install and are protected by a 3-Year Warranty against breakage! Made in the U.S.A. Log onto www.nationalcycle.com or call them at 877-972-7336.

GIVI ENGINE GUARDS & SKID PLATE There is nothing more frustrating than having your new machine tip over and that first scratch, mark or dent appearing or worse catching a large and pointy rock underneath your bike, causing serious damage down below. Not that we are afraid of gravity storms, but stuff happens.

That’s where engine guards and skid plates, like those from Givi, come in very handy. So about the time we knew Shira’s new V-Strom 650XT was on its way we ordered a little protection and got a set of both of these.

Tn-SerieS engine guardS Made from one-inch steel tubing, available in durable matte black powder coating, the GIVI TN-Series Engine Guards are a great addition for the serious rider. Unlike many other guards along this line, the Givi guards went on with extreme ease and… well, we hope to never use them. But, we know the truth. These guards look great as well, especially with the added nylon slide protection set at the point of first contact in case said gravity storm approaches.

rp-SerieS Skid plaTe The RP-Series Skid Plates are extremely tough, created from 3mm thick laser cut aluminum, folded and riveted for extreme durability and style. On some models there is also a thermo-resistant rubber foam for even more added protection and shock dissipation between the skid plate and the engine.

Installation on the skid plate was also straight-forward and easy and we now feel the slightly delicate underbelly of the V-Strom 650XT is ready for any of the challenges that may come its way.

The Givi Engine Guards for the Suzuki run $200 and the Skid Plate $190; prices may vary for other machines and applications. You cannot beat this much protection on your riding investment for this price. See their website at giviusa.com for more information on these and many more great Givi products.

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2017

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DENALI D2 2.0 TRIOPTIC LED LIGHT KIT The DENALI D2s feature durable black powder-coated finishes and special cooling fins to make sure the LED itself runs cool and bright. New for the DENALI 2.0 series is a special Impact PC corrosion proof bezel that ensures your lights will continue to look great even after repeated stone and debris impacts. Low profile hinge mounts offer secure mounting and include stainless steel M8 mounting hardware for installation on light bars or model specific light mounts.

Easy installation, durability and brightness. See further, be seen better, with DENALI! $350 from www.twistedthrottle.com.

OVER $200 (for someone special, that you really like - perhaps yourself) ADVANCE GUARD FROM MACHINEARTMOTO We love it when someone more brilliant than us comes up with an idea and we all say “Duh, why didn’t we think of that?’ Thankfully Andrew at machineartmoto did. In addition to their other great motorcycle add-ons like the X-Head engine guard and Mudsling they offer the ADVance Guard.

The ADVance Guard multi-functional, aluminum framed hand guards are uniquely designed for superior strength and easy adjustability for a variety of weather and riding conditions. The patented ADVance Guard design fits several brands of Adventure and Dual Sport motorcycles and fitment will be verified to more models over time. They are the most versatile and effective hand guards available today.

Adjustable Wind Control? You betcha! ADV and Dual Sport riders must adapt to a wide variety of environmental and weather conditions - from highway to single track, hot temperature in the dirt, warm air in the countryside, or driving rain and cold temperatures on the interstate. The ADVance Guard height adjustable Shield and removable front Insert enable you to easily adapt to prevailing conditions without the need for tools.

The wide, and very sturdy, Aluminum Safety Frame provides tough protection for rider and handlebar controls in case of tip-overs or impact with outcroppings on a narrow trail. With or without the front Insert installed, the Frame covers not only the hands, but also the control levers and switches.

ADVance is an assembly of 3 main components: HOT! A wide aluminum Safety Frame with an open airflow front.

Cool! An Insert that fills the open front when snapped in. Cold! A Sliding Shield that is adjustable up and down to control airflow and adapt to different weather conditions.

Fully extended vertical coverage is 142mm. With the Shield in its open front configuration, ADVance Guard’s height is 100mm. Shield adjustments must be made while the bike is stationary and are extremely easy to do roadside.

Fit Kits contain handlebar mounts specific to a variety of models and additional models will be added over time. Right now they can be fitted to most ADV BMW, Honda Africa Twin, KTM, Kawasaki KLR and Suzuki V-Strom. The ADVance Guard is a huge improvement over any stock hand guard. They list for $249 and can be found at machineartmoto.com.

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Page 42

DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

VENTURE HEATED RIDING GEAR • BLUETOOTH MEETS HEAT

Route 739 • Dingmans Ferry, PA • 570.828.1920

My entire paradigm changed with a push of a button.

At this last Fall Fiesta I was in the hotel parking lot, in Alexandria Bay, talking to my friend Chip, a rep for Schuberth helmets. He was showing me his Yamaha Super Tenere, which was a great looking machine and a bit, but tastefully, farkled out. I notice a device on his handlebar that I was not familiar with and asked him about it.

“Ahh, that is the control for my Venture Heated Gear.” He pressed the button and it came alive.

Whaaaat?!

For decades I have been using heated vests, liners and gloves – from various sources – and they have proved to be a ride saver time and again. A few years back our go-to favorite and family-owned heated gear was sold to a larger company and, as they do, things changed.

Not too soon later a box arrived with Venture Heated Riding Gear – where it seems the future of heated gear is going.

As good as electric heated gear is on a cold days, the bane has always been the number of connections and wires that were involved with the operation.

Power plugs into thermostat into vest or liner and down to the gloves. Then you had to get comfortable with all the wires and secure with placement of the heat controller, which seemed to be getting larger and more cumbersome with each new generation - until now.

The newest offering from Venture Heat I have been using is their Deluxe Motorcycle Heated Jacket Liner and a pair of their waterproof Heated Touring Gloves.

The Deluxe Motorcycle Heated Jacket Liner micro-alloy heating elements are strategically placed around the entire back, around the collar, down both sleeves and along the sides of the chest for the utmost heating performance.

The liner itself is very lightweight and flexible compared to other such gear we have tried over the years and fit easily under my riding suit with room to spare – not bulky or tight at all - avoiding the Michelin Man feeling I used to put up with all winter.

On the bottom is the single connection that would be linked to the battery - one plug and good to go. There is no external thermostat to deal with, secure or watch pop off and go tumbling down the truck-filled highway. Don’t ask.

Venture has skillfully built the thermostat into the liner itself, which operates by a touch of a button to three different temperature settings - low, medium and high. Even with the power off it make a great wind blocking liner by itself.

It is stylish enough to wear as a night jacket as well. Very nice, indeed.

The Touring Gloves are extremely well made and are constructed with premium Nappa Leather using a waterproof membrane to keep hands protected and dry if the weather gets wet as well as cold. The gloves feature a form fitting adjustable hook and loop strap with an adjustable hem cinch on the wrist to keep the warmth in and the moisture out.

Each glove index and thumb are touch screen friendly- so riders can pull over and use their phones without taking the gloves off - a big plus these days.

Another huge plus with these gloves, at least for me, is the ease at which they attach to the liner.

The waterproof jack connection is built to the outside of the top of the glove. This connection of the gloves to the liner is done easily and unobtrusively. No more stuffing wires here and there to keep a tight fit with your jacket sleeves and gloves.

This interconnectivity, of which Venture is righty proud, is very well thought out.

The gloves were comfortable from the start. Once powered up the micro-alloy fiber heating elements, purposefully placed on top of hand and fingers wrapping around the palm and thumb, start pouring on the heat.

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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2017

Page 43

The Touring Gloves also have a bit more extra protection with gel knuckle, palm, and finger cushions, along with reinforced fingertips.

They are a decent pair of winter gloves even without the heat.

They too come with their own button-style built-in temperature controller that is very easy to use on the road.

But… these were not the buttons I was talking about at the beginning of this review. Nope…that button is up top, now attached to my handlebars.

The Venture Heat’s Wireless Remote Control easily attaches by way of a small handlebar bracket and was neatly tucked to an out of the way, yet handy, position. Now, when the temperatures call for some additional warmth I have one plug to deal with and when and if I need the heat I tap the remote control and everything fires up and the multi-colored light flashes on. Green for warm. Yellow for warmer. Red for full on hot! All of which happened in seconds.

I am very impressed with the quality of this Venture Heat Gear and the prices are reasonable when you know you will be using these products for many winter seasons. The Deluxe Liner sells for $300 and the Touring Gloves $190. But it was that paradigm shift that really sold me. One touch of the button turned on a whole new and warm world for me. www.ventureheat.com ~ Brian Rathjen

SHAD HARD LUGGAGE When looking to outfit the Suzuki V-Strom 650XT with some luggage, we decided on SHAD’s line of side and top cases. As the bike is quite light and nimble, we wanted to keep the added weight down to a minimum. We also wanted to complement the lines of the motorcycle rather than just add rectangles all around.

SHAD has a few side case options ranging from 23 to 43 liter capacity, as well as top cases ranging from 25 to a voluminous 58 liters. We went for the XPandable 59X along with a set of 23 and 36 side cases, giving an option of full load touring to slim daytripping.

Sh59x expandable Top Case SHAD developed their expandable top cases a few years ago and the 59X is the latest addition.

Starting out as a 46 liter case, it can easily enlarge to hold up to 58 liters, which may be more than you really want to pack on the back end of your motorcycle, but it’s good to know that it’s available (load capacity is rated at 22 lbs). It can hold two full-face helmets. The mechanics appear simple, but I’m sure that the design and engineering took a good amount of thought and time. The top remains in place while the case itself is made of two parts. With the release of two flat plastic latches inside the case, the case slides up to lock into two positions (52L or 58L), remaining waterproof as the top half slides over the bottom half. I know it sounds more complicated than it is, but sometimes actions are simpler than words.

The SH59X is constructed of 0.8mm thick aluminum and reinforced polypropylene, making for a study structure. The V-Strom is sporting an aluminum cover plate, but it is also available in black, carbon fiber and white. While the case looked too large for the 650, once installed it worked very well. With its flatter clamshell-like shape, it is quite aerodynamic while being extremely functional.

The top case comes with the mounting plate, which was easily installed. We did have a little conundrum in trying to remove the mounting bracket from the case, but once we did the top case popped onto the plate with ease. Shad offers an inner liner ($65), which is very well constructed and expandable as well, making packing a breeze. The top case sells for $425 depending on model and options.

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DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

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NORTH ON RTE. 9 TRAFFIC CIRCLE TO RTE. 206 – BEAR MOUNTAIN BRIDGE CROSS BRIDGE ¾ WAY THROUGH TRAFFIC CIRCLE - BEAR MOUNTAIN INN STAY ON ROAD UP MOUNTAIN BECOMES 7 LAKES DRIVE RIDE TO TOP OF PERKINS DRIVE FOR THE VIEW CONTINUE INTO HARRIMAN SP ON 7 LAKES DRIVE RIGHT AT TRAFFIC CIRCLE TO ARDEN ROAD LEFT AT RTE. 17 RIGHT AT ORANGE TURNPIKE

IN MONROE PICK UP RTE. 208 NORTH LEFT AT RTE. 52 THROUGH ELLENVILLE GREAT VIEW ALONG THIS WAY TOO! LEFT AT RTE. 42 SOUTH THROUGH MONTICELLO RIGHT AT FORESTBURGH RD. RIGHT AT MOHICAN LAKE RD. LEFT AT RTE. 55 SOUTH RIGHT AT RTE. 97 IMMEDIATE RIGHT AT MAIL RD. FOLLOW UP AND AROUND TO RESORT

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RIGHT OUT OF LOT LEFT AT BRAMERTOWN RD. LEFT AT BENJAMIN MEADOWS RD. RIGHT AT RTE. 17A THROUGH GREENWOOD LAKE LEFT AT CASCADE RD. LEFT AT BRADY RD. RIGHT AT BLACK ROCK RD. RIGHT AT WARWICK TURNPIKE RIGHT AT RTE. 94 LEFT AT CR 1A LEFT AT LIBERTY CORNERS RD. RIGHT AT OIL CITY RD. STRAIGHT AT STATE LINE RD.

RIGHT AT RTE. 284 BEAR LEFT AT MAIN ST. UNIONVILLE BEAR LEFT AT CR 36 - WATCH 15 MPH TURNS! RIGHT AT GORGE RD. RIGHT AT RTE. 23 NORTH INTO HIGH POINT SP LEFT AT SAWMILL RD. RIGHT AT DECKERTOWN RD. CROSS RTE. 206 TO OLD MINE RD. CROSS DINGMANS ROAD STAY ON OLD MINE RD. ENTER WALPACK VALLEY FOLLOW NPS 615 LEFT AT MILLBROOK RD. FOLLOW SIGNS TO BLAIRSTOWN ON MILLBROOK RD. INTO BLAIRSTOWN BEAR RIGHT ON MAIN GOURMET GALLERY ON LEFT

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2017

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Sh36 Side Cases SHAD has developed a three-point mounting system for their new line of side cases and it is quite sturdy and easy to use. As with the top case, these side cases are ruggedly constructed, can hold a full-face helmet, have an inner shelf and strapping system to prevent your stuff from falling out when opening and have an optional inner liner as well. The cases are lockable and come with an extra key cylinder so you can have one key for all your bags. The opening mechanism is single-handed and the cases have an integrated carrying handle. There is also the option of white, black, carbon fiber and silver tops.

The set sells for $469 depending on motorcycle model.

Sh23 Side Cases While the SH36 cases are a great option for longer travels, sometimes you just need a little bit of storage with a slimmer profile. Enter the SH23. These bags are top-loading, very lightweight, fully waterproof and highly aerodynamic. The load capacity is 13lbs and fit on the same 3P mounting system as the SH36 with just a slight alteration to the rubber endstops. They also have an optional inner liner bag and are a great alternative for daily commutes, overnights or apple picking and picnics. Affordably priced at $179 for the set. You can find these and the full line of SHAD products @ shadusa.com ~ Shira Kamil

SENA INTRODUCES ALL NEW 30K Introducing the new Sena 30K with Mesh Intercom Technology, the next generation of motorcycle communication. With one click of a button, seamlessly connect to a virtually unlimited number of riders within a mile range using the 30K’s public mode feature. When a rider from the group falls out of range, the rest of the group remains seamlessly connected thanks to the self-healing aspect of Sena’s mesh technology. In private mode a rider can create a group with up to 16 riders and an endless amount of guests can listen in.

The 30K bridges the gap between Bluetooth and Mesh Technology devices so that all riders can communicate with one another. The 30K is Bluetooth 4.1 compatible and able to connect to up to three other Sena and even one non-Sena Bluetooth device.

In addition to the technological advance of mesh technology the 30K packs the same feature set as previous Sena devices such as audio multitasking, take and make phone calls, listen to music, hear turn-by-turn GPS direction, and much more. The 30K retails for $329 single / $579 dual pack and can be had from your Sena dealer.

Backroads wishes everyone a joyous holiday season, a happy New Year and we look forward to seeing you on the road in 2018.

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Page 46

DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

Under Pressure pres·sure noun: pressure: the continuous physical force exerted on or against an object by something in contact with it.

When was the last time you checked your motorcycles tire pressure?

Before your last ride? Last year?

Do you check it once a month or before every ride?

Can you not remember when you last did, but they look good?

Are you wondering what we are talking about?

Ask any RiderCoach when they go out to inspect machines that are brought to their courses and they will tell you that a high proportion of riders are riding with their motorcycle’s tires improperly inflated – most with far less air than is called for.

In fact I bet if you checked any number of motorcycles at any given “Bike Night” you would find a large number of them are a good deal light on their correct pressure.

When next spring rolls around and some machines are brought out that have not seen fresh air around them or in their tires for months, it is time to check your air pressure.

And, if you are paying attention this winter for a Polar Bear Run or stealing a warmish afternoon out, the pressure you checked at 40 degrees is not going to be the same at 70. Temperature matters.

Let’s look at how pressure works in your tires.

Before the advent of tubed-type tires, powered travel rolled around on hard rubber and wooden wheel. Not too comfortable, especially given how bad roads were then as well.

The creation of pneumatic tires comprising a doughnut-shaped body of

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cords and wires encased in rubber and generally filled with compressed air to form an inflatable cushion changed everything. Suddenly tires could give, offering better ride and better contact with the road.

Over the last few decades tires technology has made giant leaps forward and the tires we ride on the street today would have been the envy of any race team just a few decades back.

It is that cushion and pliancy that helps today’s motorcycle tires do the job for which they were created.

But, to do it correctly, they need a bit of your time – every week at least.

If your tires are under-inflated (which is very, very common) it can cause the tires to heat up and wear far more than needed.

Your steering and handling will be sluggish and heavy. Tire manufacturers say that 80% of tire internal failure is due to severe under-inflation (10 pounds or more).

Running on far too low pressure will eventually damage your tires and cause failure.

You do not want tire failure - ever.

Over-inflation can reduce the contact area, adversely affecting available traction and can make the motorcycle react harshly to any road irregularities.

Slam into a pothole with over or under-inflated tires and you are bound to know it.

Either way - too much or too little, air will adversely affect how that palmsize patch of tire, in contact with the road, will handle at any given moment.

Get a Gauge- Use Your Gauge!

First off, get a good air pressure gauge and check your tires cold – not after you are done with a ride.

Almost all gauges will have a bit of difference between them on any given tire, but a good tire gauge will be within a pound or two of reality. We carry

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2017 a great gauge with us from BestRest Products (bestrestproducts.com) called the EZ Air on all our tours.

It is a great investment, at just $25, and has a carrying case to keep things neat.

You can get a good gauge at any major auto parts store as well – but, don’t scrimp – this is an investment and tool and who does not want another tool?

Lately we have been keeping an eye on our tires using our GPS. Garmin has a Tire Pressure System (TPS) that is simply a replacement valve stem cap that Bluetooth’s the tires’ pressure to the GPS. Press a button and you know where you are pressure-wise. If, for whatever reason, your pressure drops below a preset pressure an alert icon appears on the screen letting you know what tire is at issue and that you have some housekeeping to do. This

Page 47 Garmin TPS technology takes the pressure off keeping correct air pressure in your motorcycle tires.

What is the right tire pressure for your bike?

That is the question, and we wish we had the perfect answer, but it really depends on what type of tire you are running, what sort of riding you are doing along with things like ambient temperature and other factors.

Your tire manufacturer will be able to give you a more precise answer than we could, but I can tell you that what we run on the street solo and unencumbered by luggage, is different that what we run fully packed or what we run during track days or if we know we are going to be off-road for a long period of time.

That is the great thing about tires – you can adjust them.

To get an idea where to start we typically run 38 PSI in the rear and 36 PSI up front on our tires. If on tour and loaded up we will increase that by a few pounds. On the track we drop down a few pounds less than normal. Trial and observation is key on what works for you.

This works for us, and your results may vary.

So, now that you have read this don’t you think it is time to go out and see just what pressure you have running in your tires? ~ Brian Rathjen

RIDE LIKE A PRO NJ SPECIAL HOLIDAY OFFER Advanced Riding Training Classes Being Held in New Jersey ‘NEVER FEAR that U-turn or dropping your 800lb. or any motorcycle again’ • You can learn the 3 simple techniques that master low speed maneuvers that Motorcops have been using for years • Our instructors - all active or retired motor officers - will instruct the use of Motorcop riding techniques to help you better control your motorcycle

There is a difference between just riding and riding well

Purchase a Gift Certificate by 12/31/17 for a special discounted rate of $150 Gift Certificates can be redeemed for any class or used toward the cost of a private lesson.

Visit our website to take advantage of this special offer.

RideLikeAProNJ.com

Page 48

DECEMBER 2017 • BACKROADS

UP C OM I N G E VE NT S CAL END AR EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTING

What’s Happening 1-7-18 • THE TILTED KILT, Brunswick Square Mall 755 Route 18, East Brunswick, NJ 08816 • 732-257-5458

Every Tuesday • Two Wheeled Tuesday at Spiegel Restaurant • 26 1st Avenue, NyC. An eclectic gathering of motorcycles served with multi-cuisine meals. Kick some tires, have some couscous, enjoy the crowd • www.spiegelnyc.com • 212-228-2894

1-14-18 • RHODES NORTH TAVERN, 40 Orange Turnpike, Sloatsburg, Ny 10974 • 845 753-6438

Every Tuesday • Bike Night @ The Ear Inn, 326 Spring St, NyC

1-21-18 • PIC-A-LILLI INN 866 Route 206 Shamong NJ 08088 • 609 268-2066

Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-In, Rtes. 15/206, Augusta, NJ. Tire kicking, good food and friends • www.chatterboxdrivein.com

1-28-18 • UPSTREAM GRILLE, 161 Rte. 181, Lake Hopatcong, NJ 07849 • 973-6632222

Every Saturday thru October • Bergen County Harley Davidson Saddle Up Saturday.

9am for coffee and bagels. Ride departs at 10am. Return to the dealership for FREE food and music. Proper attire MUST be worn! No shorts or sneakers. BCHD, 124 Essex

2-4-18 • THE FRANKLIN HOUSE TAVERN, 101 North Market Street, Schaefferstown, PA 17088 • 717 949-2122

DECEMBER 2017 1-3 • Progressive International Motorcycle Shows - Jacob Javits Center, NyC • Friday: 2-8pm • Saturday: 9:30a-8p • Sunday 10a-5p • $20/adult; 11 and under FREE • www.motorcycleshows.com

2-11-18 • O'Connor's American Bar & Grill, 1383 Monmouth Rd, Easthampton TWP, NJ • 609 261-1555 2-18-18 • THE EXCHANGE, 160 E. Main St., Rockaway, NJ 07866 • 973-627-8488 2-25-18 • HOOTERS, 25 Rte 23 South, Wayne, NJ 07470 • 973-837-1876 3-4-18 • BAHRS LANDING, 2 Bay Ave., Highlands, NJ 07732 • 732-872-1245

FEBRUARY 2018

3-11-18 • LIGHTHOUSE TAVERN, 397 Route 9 Waretown, NJ 08758 • 609-693-3150

9-11 • Timonium Motorcycle Show with expanded Travel, Touring & Adventure Riding Feature Section. Presentation all three days by some of the world’s most famous adventure riders like Lisa & Simon Thomas, Alisa Clickenger, John Jesson of Ayres Adventures, Rob Beach of Beach’s Adventures and Sam Manicom…to name a few.

Maryland State Fairgrounds, timonium, MD • www.cycleshow.net • 410-561-7323

3-18-18 • LONG VALLEy PUB & BREWERy, 1 Fairmount Rd., Long Valley, NJ 07853 • 908-876-1122 3-25-18 • THE CHATTERBOX, #1 Rte 15 South, Augusta, NJ 07822 • 973-300-2300 4-8-18 • BRIAN'S HARLEy-DAVIDSON, 600 S. Flowers Mill Rd., Langhorne PA 19047 • 215 752-9400

23-25 • Progressive International Motorcycle Shows - Walter E. Washington Convention Center, Washington, D.C. Friday: 3-7pm • Saturday: 10a-8p • Sunday 10a-5p • $16/adult; 11 and under FREE • www.motorcycleshows.com

4-15-18 • THE HICKORy BBQ SMOKEHOUSE, 743 Route 28, Kingston, Ny 12401 • 845-338-2424

MARCH 2018

4-29-18 • CAPE MAy V.F.W. post #386, N.J. 419 Congress St., Cape May, N.J. 08204 • 609-884-7961

11-20 • BACKROADS OF ECUADOR TOUR •

Join a VERY small group of Backroads’ readers for an amazing tour with Court and Sylvain (and Salina the Wonder Dog) of Ecuador Freedom Bike Rentals. See page 44 or visit their website for full details, pricing and availability • www.FreedomBikeRental.com

4-22-18 • PLUMSTED GRILL, 457 Rte. 539, Cream Ridge, NJ 08514 • 609-758-5552

5-5-18 • END OF THE SEASON GET-TOGETHER - At The Pic-a-Lilli Inn, starting @ 11:30 AM. The rain date would be May 12, 2018; same time. Cost to Members: $6.00 per person. you must get an arm band from your flight leader.

MAY 2018 16-21 • BACKROADS SPRING BREAK • It is time to plan for the return of great riding weather. This year will be the 20th Anniversary of our Rallies, and we hope to make it another great trip, with a bonus day at beginning and end • BOOK EARLY - ROOMS ARE LIMITED. Heading south to VA and WV, you can find all the details on page 45 or visit www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html

POLAR BEAR GRAND TOUR 2017-18 It is not necessary to be a member of the Polar Bear Grand Tour to do these rides. Polar Bear cancellations & updates will be posted on the website • www.polarbeargrandtour.com • Sign-in is from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. unless otherwise posted.

10-29-17 • CAPE MAy V.F.W. post #386, N.J. 419 Congress St., Cape May, N.J. 08204 Ph# 609-884-7961 12-3-17 • MONTGOMERyVILLE CyCLE, 2901 Bethlehem Pike Hatfield, PA 19440 • 215-712-7433 12-10-17 • APPALACHIAN BREWING CO., 50 West 3rd Ave., Collegeville, PA 19426 • 484-973-6064 12-17-17 • THE CABIN, 984 Route #33 Howell, NJ 07731 • 732 462-3090 • CHRISTMAS PARTy. BRING A TOy FOR THE CHILDREN'S HOSPITAL (do NOT wrap present).

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