December 2021

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W H AT ’ S I N S I D E

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021

MONTHLY COLUMNS Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

FREE WHEELIN’ ........................................ 3 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ................................... 4

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ON THE MARK .......................................... 5 BACKLASH ............................................... 6 INDUSTRY INFOBITES............................... 8

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors

Dan Bisbee, Mark Byers, Pamela Collins, Tony Lisanti, Dr. Seymour O’Life

Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA .......................... 12 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN......... 14 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ............................... 16 BIG CITY GETAWAY................................. 18 INSIDE SCOOP ....................................... 20 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE .................... 38

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UPCOMING EVENTS ............................... 40

FEATURES BACKROADS HOLIDAY WISH LIST .......... 22 MOTOGP TEXAS ..................................... 26 MOTO WEEKEND 2021 ............................ 30

MOTORCYCLE SPOTLIGHTS ‘22 SUZUKI GSX-S1000GT ...................... 37

PRODUCT REVIEWS HOLIDAY GIFT IDEAS .............................. 24

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2021. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.


BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021

F R E E W H EEL I N’ BRIAN RATHJEN

CHIPS AHOY OR WHY IS IT SO HARD TO FIND SOME NEW MOTORCYCLES? Several years back we did a fund-raising ride to buy a ‘Little Free Library’ that hung outside the entrance to The Chatterbox Drive-In for years. When the place was closing, we moved it to our gym. Now I get to keep half an eye on it on a, more or less, regular basis. Occasionally I cull the books and sometimes I find something that grabs my eye – such as Britannica’s Science and the Future. Printed in 1983, I was interested to see what they predicted and what has come to pass in the last four decades. One that jumped out at me was an article on the Rise of the Microchips titled “Chips for Everything.” In this article, they finish with a great deal of discussion on Moore’s Law. Back in 1965 Gordon Moore, who would go on to be one of the founders of Intel, stated that the number of transistors in a dense integrated circuit doubles about every two years. This has run from transistors to chips and it is obvious that chips are everywhere and for everything. When people refer to chips, they’re talking about semiconductors. They’re in almost everything from cars to smartphones to LED bulbs to household appliances. And that’s just how everyday citizens use them. They’re also critical to the factories that make all that merchandise, to the military, and in the medical field. Semiconductors are circuits made of silicon with built-in transistors.

Page 3 The ones powering your smartphone, laptop, and car are pretty sophisticated. Within the industry, some companies design the chips while others manufacture them. It’s pretty common for companies that make smartwatches or dishwashers or programmable thermostats to outsource both the design and the manufacture of the microchips they need. While American consumers make up a huge percentage of the individuals who use products containing microchips, only 12% of them are made in the U.S. We used to make nearly 40% of the chips worldwide. But that was in 1990 – just seven years after Britannic called the future. But, no – these days let’s hand that business and all the rest to China and see how that all plays out. A recent article in the Wall Street Journal stated that Taiwan Semiconductor Manufacturing Company accounts for more than half of the global semiconductor foundry market by revenue, according to Taiwanese research firm TrendForce, and it makes more than 90% of the world’s most advanced chips. You would think Intel might try to bring some of that manufacturing back to Santa Clara? The current shortage isn’t just for semiconductors used in automobiles, it’s for everything. Motorcycles are in this messed-up mix as well. Sure, the pandemic caused many of the problems, but other issues have also come into play. A global shortage of semiconductors stems from a variety of factors including trade tensions between China and the USA, leading to some electronics firms stockpiling Chinese-made chips, and fluctuating demand from tech manufacturers as lockdowns lead to unpredictable sales. This intensified during COVID-19, when workforces across the globe Continued on Page 10


BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021

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WHAT C H AT HI NK I N ’ SHIRA KAMIL

‘TIS THE SEASON The calendar is winding down and the days are getting shorter and darker. That can only mean that the holidays are close upon us. I’m sure that this year’s gatherings will be joyous, with families getting together to overeat and exchange all the gifts that may not have been given out last year. However you may celebrate, we wish you happiness, health and a long and adventurous riding life. As we were putting together this year’s Holiday Gift Ideas, it got me to thinking what I would like to receive come this Hanukkah. It’s really hard to buy things for each other in this house, as we usually just get it when we need it. While I will explore and research the most minute items before purchase, Brian is the king of the One-Click. If he mentions something he’s come across while on a trip, chances are it will be delivered before we have the bikes back in the garage.

From my point of view, I look to see what I always carry on my bike that, periodically, needs replacing and would be appreciated under the menorah. Little things that make a huge difference if they are not readily at hand. I have one bag that contains travel size cans of chain lube, W-D 40 and Plexus with a clean microfiber cloth as well as a bunch of assorted zip ties, a small roll of duct tape and some safety pins (ask Brian about that). What a wonderful gift bag that would make for any rider. Some other items that would be most welcome holiday, or any time, gifts would be a well-stocked first aid kit. There are many on the market ranging from $25 and up. I carry the REI Backpacker Multi-Day kit and try to replace what I use so as not to be caught short in an emergency. Another first aid of a sort are ear plugs. While the foam ones may do the trick in a pinch, a good set of custom-molded ones will prevent hearing issues down the road. You can usually find them at motorcycle shows, as it is a hands-on operation, and gift certificates are surely available. Moving on to the well-being of the motorcycle, an absolute must is a tire plug kit. I totally recommend the Stop ‘n Go Tubeless Puncture Pilot. This kit contains the Pocket Tire Plugger, 15 mushroom-shaped rubber plugs, the very compact Mini-Air Compressor, a 66’ power cord, 12”

alligator extension clips, 35’ extension lighter adapter and 4” tire valve hose, all compactly placed in a durable zipper-canvas case. A bargain at $68. To keep you moving should something go amiss, an external power supply is a good thing to carry. Not only can it jump start your motorcycle, it can charge your cell phone or GPS. The Micro-Start XP-3 is an example; it can hold a charge for up to a year, has a high-power LED flashlight, weighs less than a pound, can fit in your pocket and sells for about $120. If the person in your life for whom you are shopping happens to have a Garmin zumo 390 or 590 series, a pair of tire pressure monitors is an excellent present. Fit the TPMS on the tire valve stem and they will connect with the zumo, giving you real-time readings. They can be set to a specific tire pressure and, if it should drop, will issue a warning through the zumo display. This could detect a slow leak before it becomes a bigger problem. These sell for $70 per tire. But, you say, these are great gifts but very impersonal. Okay, let’s get a little warmer and fuzzier. There is no better feeling than warm feet on a cold riding day. I have tried many woolen socks and found most to be too thick to be comfortable. Last year I was gifted a pair of Pearly’s Possum socks (thank you Helene) and they are pretty near perfect, if just a tad on the thick side. But I have to say that SmartWool socks have become my favorite. Made of Merino wool and in a variety of heights, cushioning and designs, these Continued on Page 11


BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021

O N T H E MAR K MARK BYERS

DANCIN’ WITH MYSELF Dancing with myself, oh-oh. Dancing with myself. When there’s nothing to lose and there’s nothing to prove, Well, I’m dancing with myself. Billy Idol The sky was blue as electricity, with a sunburst in the corner of my view, complete with rays like a kid’s drawing. The temperature was perfect as an early October morning could make it for riding a motorcycle: neither hot nor cold - the porridge was just right. I was somewhere in the Shenandoah National Forest on the border between Virginia and West Virginia, riding a small, Honda dual-sport motorcycle. Blissfully, I was alone, having told my riding companions to forge ahead, wanting neither to be pushed nor compelled to chase. I just wanted to ride. And ride I did: up and down steep, rockstrewn dual-track forest trails, gravel roads, and rutted jeep paths, with an occasional stretch of asphalt for flavor. The little Honda alternately barked and burbled under power and without. Sunlight came and went, maddeningly dappling the trail, making the infernal rocks harder to see. Mostly I just heeded the old dirt rider’s adage “when in doubt, gas it” and kept the little four-stroke on a constant boil to lighten the front end and carry the front wheel over most of the transverse ledges. Rocks ranging from pebbles to bread loaves in size were scattered all over the trail, some dislodged by the riders who preceded me, like dice cast by the hand of God.

Page 5 Thanks to my companions’ desire to ride some more challenging alternative sections and to my leisurely morning departure, I had the trail to myself for long periods of time. Occasionally, I would see the headlight of one of the faster guys in my mirrors and I would stick my leg out in the universal signal to pass me. I wanted no part of an ego-fueled dirt duel that would break the magic spell I was under. Comfortingly, some of the riders passing were clad in the bright green of course marshals, whose job it was to render assistance to those in need and who made it safe for me to ride such remote and challenging terrain by myself. I rarely stopped, and then only momentarily to reset the little manual odometer. On the handlebar was a small plastic box with a five-foot-long rolled strip of paper full of instructions on how to navigate the course. “6.8 RGR (FR95A)” was all I needed to tell me that the next turn would be a right on gravel Forest Road 95A at mile 6.8 - no phone, no GPS, no lines, no lights, and damn few people. The organizer usually put a single paper arrow at major turns, but they were easy to miss and the roll chart was a real comfort. As I reached each milestone, I’d turn the little silver knob to roll the paper from one spool to the other and bring the next turn description into view. And so it went, for mile after mile after mile. Some were easy, allowing my mind to wander as I passed through the bucolic, rugged farms that dot the area. Other miles required my complete concentration to avoid coming to grief on the red and yellow dusty shoals of rocks mixed with red mountain clay. At one point, I was standing on the pegs, rolling down a 14-mile-long stretch of dual track. It wound through deeply-shaded forest, the trail clinging to the steep side of a ridge and consisting of twin ruts separated by kneehigh grass. It was narrow enough that the vegetation on the side of the trail rushed by, brushing my shoulder. Continued on Page 11


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BACKLASH Hi Brian & Shira Thanks a bunch for the fantastic review of Cornering Confidence in the November issue. I’m sure it wasn’t easy writing that, as I could see bits and pieces of all the promos I’ve sent around here and there! Maybe sometime soon I can call you to get some feedback from you on my latest project: the Trail Braking Camp. I taught my first camp on the Grom-style bikes at Americade. It went really well. If we could find a place to do a class, I’d love have you guys and your readers to take the course. I’m certainly doing some courses near me in Rochester. But I was also thinking of taking the show on the road. Jon DelVecchio

Tic Tock Tic Tock I would like to thank Contributor Mark Byers for “A Wastrel’s Obsession, and Confession” in the October issue of Backroads. I also have OCD. It is rare that I meet people who talk about their OCD; let alone write about it in a top moto-journal. Thank you for being so forthright and brave Mark. You taught me the clinical term for what I call my “fear of aging.” You state the term “Chronophobia;” meaning fear or concern over the passage of time or aging. These thoughts can be constant, intrusive, and quite uncomfortable. Mark gives suggestions on how to manage chronophobia while riding motorcycles. We could stop while riding, look at the view, take a photo, have an ice cream cone, get there around something-ish. Take the pressure off. Focus on the moment rather than having to “stay on the cam” and arrive at our destination at a specific hour. Mark’s main point, however, is to get a motorcycle and ride. I agree that riding a motorcycle forces a person to focus in the moment. The focus and sense of control I get riding motorcycles is what draws me to them. The future, getting old, or what might happen will take care of itself; but I must be in the moment while riding my Ducati or Honda CB 1100.

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021

Letters to the Editor I feel ashamed of my obsessive concerns over aging and the passage of time. Mark, you have comforted me in your writing. You have affected me profoundly. You have let me I know I am not alone. Father Time marches right along doing what he does. In the meantime, …let’s ride! Gratefully, your reader, Bruce Kagan L.I. N.Y. Shira & Brian, As I read you opening editorials, it occurred to us that it is not just the varied motorcycles that we ride, but also where we ride them and with whom we ride. When Lotus Tours was a functioning adventure tour company we took over 8,000 riders to 150 countries around the world. These trips were not necessarily ‘challenging’ rides, but they were certainly adventures, immersing our riders in history, culture, geo-politics, unique accommodations and interesting local cuisine. Once we stopped doing commercial trips, there were those folks, who you mentioned, who become part of your motorcycle family. They continue to insist on asking where are you taking us next year? “We do not run commercial trips anymore!” we would tell them. These people are friends who do not take no for an answer… So, once or twice a year, we include them on a trip that we are taking for ourselves. In 2018 I was in a vintage car rally in Argentina which was mostly along their version of our Route 66, known as Ruta 40 along the Andes. I vowed that I would return to do a similar route by motorcycle. I leaned on Skip Mascorro at MotoDiscovery, in 2019, to handle the ground logistics and bikes on the route I laid out and book the hotels I had stayed at and enjoyed. We had a great time and all those riders had an outstanding adventure with a fair amount of dirt or gravel roads. Dirt bike experience proved to be an asset! Virtually all of those friends (not customers) wanted to know where we would be going in 2020 – answer: Nowhere, due to Covid-19! We did plan a trip to my version of 2 weeks of a Tail of the Dragon type route on the tight undulating coastal roads of Corsica & Sardenia for May 2021 that had to be shifted to September due to Europe being closed to tourism. At


BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021

Page 7 Camera Club). I decided to stop over for a bite with them. Glad I did! I just did a 1200-mile 5-day trip in the Adirondacks and down through Champlain, a bit of Vermont and to Lake George, then down through Hunter Mountain to Lafayette - spectacular trip. None of my friends are interested in adventure so maybe your publication will help me find others with interest. That was a V-Strom trip/ It was the perfect bike for it. Thanks for the Backroads… Regards, Scott Burghart Scott, We were glad to make your acquaintance as well. Keep an eye on our upcoming events. If your friends don’t want to go exploring the tiny and outof-the-way roads we have a whole bunch of new friends for you that haven’t met …yet. ,

Italian Customs, visitors had to show their CDC vaccination cards. As we lined up for the ferry to Corsica, which is French, the man in blue (Polizi) was checking our CDC cards. We went through this ritual again departing Olbia, Sardenia to return to mainland Italy. I had ridden these challenging roads more the 20 times over the past years. Again, we worked with Eligio Arturi, Mototouring to handle the logistics of bikes, overnight ferries, hotels and restaurants. After 36 years and hundreds of adventures later, Diane & I felt this was the best of the best – no mechanical issues, although Eligio had brought along a spare bike in the luggage van, just in case. The hotels, restaurants and the weather could not have been more perfect! Burt Richmond Dear Editors, I met you yesterday at The Barnyard, which was a bit of a fluke as my wife brought her photography club there (she is President of Vernon


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INDUSTRY INFOBITES YAMAHA SUPPORTS LAND ACCESS WITH $350,000 IN GRANTS FOR FIRST HALF OF 2021 Yamaha Motor Corp., USA announced the Yamaha Outdoor Access Initiative (OAI) second quarter grants, totaling more than $115,000. The powersports industry’s leading land access program has contributed more than $350,000 in 2021 alone, delivering crucial funding to grassroots ef-

forts across the country, aiding in protecting and improving access to public land for outdoor recreation. Projects in the current funding cycle support the development of new off-road riding areas and popular trail systems requiring maintenance to remain open and safe for ATV, Sideby-Side (SxS), motorcycle, and snowmobile enthusiasts. “After over a dozen years and $4.5 million donated, Yamaha is steadfast

BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021

News from the Inside in making our efforts to support powersports enthusiasts and outdoor recreation,” said Steve Nessl, Yamaha’s Motorsports marketing manager. “Ensuring individuals working in resource-limited areas have what they need to maintain and improve entry to public land for recreation is why the Yamaha Outdoor Access Initiative exists, and we’re continuing to put in the time and energy to address situations posing a threat to everyone’s ability to get out and enjoy outdoor spaces.” The second quarter 2021 Yamaha OAI grants totaling more than $115,000 were awarded to the following organizations: Anthracite Outdoor Adventure Area: Northumberland, PA, City of Elephant Butte, New Mexico, Northern Timber Cruisers: Millinocket, ME, Range, Riders ATV Club: Nashwauk, MN, Stay The Trail: Arvada, CO, Twin Cities Trail Riders: St. Paul, MN. Yamaha OAI is also expanding its partnership with the Recreate Responsibly Coalition (RRC), delivering signage to public land managers seeking to educate visitors on appropriate, responsible use while enjoying trails and riding areas. Those interested in applying for the signs funded by OAI to RRC can simply complete a form @ YamahaOAI.com.

KAWASAKI HYBRID MOTORCYCLE PLANS Kawasaki has announced plans for a future range of hybrid and battery-powered bikes with the first models hitting showrooms in the near future. Along with this announcement, Kawasaki took the wraps off a hybrid prototype that it has been dropping hints about since 2020, which displays how the technology will be applied to evolutions of existing gas-powered machines.

Kawasaki stated that by 2035 every major model it sells in developed markets will be either fully electric or a hybrid. In the short term, the company vowed to have more than 10 battery-electric and hybridelectric motorcycle models in showrooms and will be launching an average of 16 new models a year by 2025, including the battery-electric and hybrids, and by then the company will have launched 15 new offroad models as well. This is a much different outlook from when Kawasaki unveiled an electric prototype several years ago with no plan for a production bike. Kawasaki hasn’t officially revealed any details of the hybrid prototype as of yet, but it appears to use the parallel twin engine from either the Ninja 250 or Ninja 400, and a large electric motor is fitted above the gearbox. with the battery is a 48V unit.

DUCATI RECOVERS FROM COVID “Ducati closed the first nine months of the year with sales volumes that are already higher than the full year 2020, both for the bikes and for after-sales products like clothing, accessories and spare parts,” notes Francesco Milicia, Ducati VP Global Sales and After Sales. Q3 was extremely positive with Ducati


BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021

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delivering 49,693 motorcycles all over the world and nearly 7,500 in the US. In fact, at the end of the first nine months of 2021, the company has already exceeded the sales volumes obtained in the whole 2020. The media can say what they want, but the numbers speak for themselves: The third quarter of 2021 was the best in Ducati history! Growth was up +3% over the same period of 2020 and +25% compared to 2019. At the end of September, the biggest market for motorcycles delivered remains Italy (7,954), followed by the United States (7,475) and Germany (5,627). Top selling models remain the Multistrada V4, which was in first place throughout 2021, followed by the Scrambler 800 family, the Streetfighter V4 and the Monster close behind.

Glacier on expedition-ready Royal Enfield Himalayans, set to commence on November 26, 2021, beginning in Cape Town, South Africa. Watch the Video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Nvh8hymLFU

90° SOUTH – ROYAL ENFIELD QUEST FOR THE POLE

HONDA’S GIANT PLANS FOR MINI ADVENTURER

For 120 years, Royal Enfield has maintained the legacy of building simple, authentic, motorcycles that are engaging and fun to ride. Riding through time and tough terrain since 1901, Royal Enfield has emerged victorious in excursions that test the endurance of man and machine. To commemorate this, Royal Enfield will take on yet another ambitious endeavor—a first-of-its-kind motorcycle expedition that will attempt to reach the geographic South Pole to the Amundsen-Scott Pole station. In this ambitious trek to push the boundaries of motorcycling possibilities, two Royal Enfield riders (Santhosh Vijay Kumar, Lead - Rides & Community, Royal Enfield; and Dean Coxson, Senior Engineer – Product Development, Royal Enfield) will undertake a 39-day journey across Antarctica on a 478-mile (770 km) ride from the Ross Ice Shelf via the Leverette

Honda is working on a small-capacity Africa Twin to muscle in on a lucrative segment of the adventure bike market. The new twin will be one of three models based on a modular platform. The news is exciting for adventure riders because there’s a large gap in Honda’s range between the 250/450cc off-road focused CRFs and the much bigger 1100cc Africa Twin. The Honda Africa Twin is a well-balanced adventure bike that’s perfect for two-up travelling but it does have its drawbacks: it’s big, it’s heavy, and it’s also expensive. All of this is off-putting for younger riders and Honda know this, which is why they’re looking at something new. The basis for the new bikes will be an evolution of the NC series, which includes the NC750S and adventure styled NC750X. The engine will


BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021

Page 10 be enlarged to 790cc, which should provide a boost in power and torque. Like the 1100, the mini-twin will have the option of a DCT gearbox as already exists on the current NC models. A new 790cc adventure bike would put Honda right in the middle of the increasingly competitive middleweight adventure bike segment that includes the BMW F850GS, the new Triumph Tiger 900s and the Yamaha Ténéré 700 as well as the KTM 790 Adventure.

MONTICELLO, NY COP CHARGED WITH TASING MOTORCYCLIST… FROM MOVING POLICE CAR! A former Monticello Police officer has been arrested and charged with firing a taser from his moving police car at a moving motorcyclist without legal justification and provocation, causing the motorcyclist to lose control of his vehicle and crash. Sullivan County District Attorney Meagan Galligan said Thomas Benjamin, 47, of Neversink, has been charged with reckless endangerment as a felony and official misconduct and coercion as misdemeanors. The DA’s Office and Sullivan County Sheriff’s Office conducted the investigation into events that occurred on September 18. Monticello Police Chief Rob Mir said his department conducted a use of force investigation during which Benjamin was suspended and ultimately resigned. Mir then decertified him as a police officer. Benjamin Greenwald, the attorney for the motorcyclist, said he is “deeply troubled by the circumstances” of the incident and the actions that immediately followed, but “my client and I are pleased with the thorough and transparent criminal investigation into this incident, led by the

district attorney’s office. My client is fully cooperative with this investigation and continues to suffer from the lasting effects of it.” , FREE WHEELIN’

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switched to remote work everywhere possible. People updated their home technology and workplaces rushed to provide remote work options and hardware. Demand for microchips went up. Way up. Also, motorcycles are coming with increasingly complex built-in computer systems. They need more chips. New models already in the pipeline pre-pandemic were designed with the expectation those chips would be available. But during the pandemic, motorcycle manufacturers simply shut down their plants. Semiconductor manufacturers adjusted their output. Now demand has skyrocketed and the supply chain is struggling to catch back up Covid’s impact on trade has also left empty shipping containers stranded in some parts of the world and a shortage of them where they’re needed, pushing up shipping costs and causing delays. These delays had knock-on consequences as all four Japanese brands build some of their line-up in the USA and some are still waiting for components to arrive from Japan. Remember the Suez Canal issue when, on February 9th, a cargo ship ran aground and shut the main east-west canal down for weeks? Yamaha had many complete bikes on the Ever Given itself, and the ship was impounded in Egypt until July 12th. Who needs Moore’s Law when we have Murphy’s?! The microchip shortage for the motorcycle industry is expected to continue into 2022 or even 2023. Though it sounds ominous, the good news is that demand continues to climb for motorcycles, which is a welcome thought for motorcycle manufacturers and dealerships – when and if they start getting a steady supply of the many new machines that are waiting to come to the showrooms around the world. Perhaps it’s time for the United States to stop trying to be ‘Woke Up’ and to simply ‘Wake up.’ ,


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WHATCHATHINKIN’

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socks are warm, comfortable and dry, as Merino wool actually wicks the moisture away from your skin. Because of this, I find that I can wear these socks a few days before washing. A bit pricey (usually around $20/pair) but since you can actually reduce the amount you need, they are totally worth it. Plus, this is a present, so stop being cheap. And the ultimate gift, which will certainly keep on giving, is a day or two of rider training. As you know from reading these pages, we are annual attendees at Reg Pridmore’s CLASS in Virginia (VIR). Two days spent with Pridmore and his talented crew are the best investment one can make for your motorcycling enjoyment and safety. There certainly are many other rider training courses of every ilk, so do some research and I’m sure this present will bring much joy to whomever receives it, even if it’s a self-present. Enjoy your holidays, whatever you celebrate, and we’ll see you on the road very soon. , Resources First-Aid kits: www.REI.com • Tire Plug kits: www.stopngo.com • External Power Supply: www.themicrostart.com/xp-3 Tire Pressure Monitor: www.garmin.com • Warm and Fuzzy socks: www.smartwool.com • www.pearlyspossumsocks.com Rider Training: www.classrides.com ON THE MARK

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It was on that stretch through the deep forest that I was left to my own devices for perhaps a half hour without seeing or being passed by another rider. At one point I stood to negotiate some ruts or a water crossing or rocks and I realized that I was dancing with a capable partner, albeit one made of aluminum, steel, and plastic. The sun shone intermittently through the trees and the breeze blew the first falling leaves of autumn across the trail. Nothing else existed in my continuum - no media or polemic intruded. It was just me and the bike and the trail and the concentration required to navigate. And as I stood on the pegs, listening to the growl of the little four-stroke, the words of the song came to me easily; “Dancin’ with my sel-elf, oh oh oh, dancin’ with my sel-elf.” ,


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Morton’s BMW Motorcycles presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA

HAUNTED PENNSYLVANIA

IS THIS PENNSYLVANIA’S MOST HAUNTED BRIDGE? The thing is with hauntings … You really never know what you have ‘til it smacks you in the face. Stories abound around the eastern part of Pennsylvania; but we were startled to learn that this one particular bridge was just it bit more haunted than the rest. I picked this up from our friends at Atlas Obscura – one of the most interesting websites around. For those who have ridden around Van Sant Airport you have likely crossed this bridge many times. But now we will just call it the Crybaby Bridge. Have you ever heard the stories that have made this the most haunted bridge in the Keystone State? As the legend goes, many years ago a young woman got pregnant out of wedlock. Her family wanted nothing to do with her and her child. So upset was she by this that after giving birth, she crept out in the middle of the night with her baby in her arms and headed to the nearby bridge. Once there, she flung her baby into the water and then hung herself from the bridge’s rafters. This particular legend refers to the Van Sant Bridge in southeastern Pennsylvania, but different iterations of it are associated with several different so-called “Crybaby Bridges” across the United States. Whatever the particular details might be, the core elements of the myth remain the same: a child (or multiple children) met an untimely death at the bridge sometime in the past; the bridge is therefore now haunted, and the haunting manifests in the form of ghostly cries of the departed children that can still be heard to this day. In the case of the Van Sant Bridge, the story goes that if you park your car in the middle of the bridge you can hear not only the wail of the poor forlorn babe, but also the toes of the hanging woman scraping your car roof. One intrepid ghost hunter, however, surmises that the crying sound

actually comes from red foxes that apparently inhabit the area. That can’t be right. The bridge was built in 1875 and spans Pidcock Creek. It is also known as Beaver Dam Bridge. Apart from the unwed mother of the crybaby legend, the Van Sant Bridge is also reputed to have been a hanging place for horse thieves. Are they not all?

So even in these days… superstition and rumor hold sway. Why ride through something boring, when you can travel through something that might be amazing? But there are other interesting haunts in the Keystone state. For sure there are tea pot and shoe homes galore…The Haines Shoe


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House in York, The Reading Pagoda in Reading, Koontz Coffee Pot in Bedford… but none of them are haunted. At least to our knowledge. But there are some roads that have become legendary – for all the wrong things.

Irwin Road in Allison Park

Irwin Road is known in local legend as Blue Mist Road. Located in North Park near Pittsburgh, it is home to multiple ghoulish spirits. You can see in the picture above that it’s pretty innocuous by day… But the entire area is said to be shrouded in blue mist by night... Two lovers’ headstones in an adjacent cemetery are said to touch under the full moon. An old building foundation is said to be the old home of a witch, and another house is said to be a home populated by little people who will chase intruders. A dog-deer-human mutant is also said to live in the woods and will chase or harm any person who creeps too far into its territory. It’s like a spooky party.

Cossart Road in Chadds Ford Township

This creepy area just north of the Delaware border is so infused with ghostly tales that M. Night Shymalan filmed his 2004 horror movie, “The Village” in a nearby field. Rumors state that a white house hidden in the woods on Devil’s Road, officially named Cossart Road, was home to a wealthy, incestuous family called the DuPonts (Yes, those DuPonts), who it is said resorted to inbreeding in order to keep their fortune within the family. “The Cult House” was used as a place to perform incestuous marriages and as a place to hide deformed offspring. The trees in the area are dramatically bent away from the house, as if they are trying to escape. Piles of animal corpses have been discovered in the area by visitors. It is a very eerie road.

Hansell Road in Buckingham

Mysterious glowing orbs have been said to appear in the forest on Hansell Road. The bizarre phenomenon has no known logical explanation. Some observers have said the orbs are like eyes, while others have compared them to floating lanterns. Try riding your machine around these things! Spooky stuff and things that go bump into motorcycles in the night are in every state in the nation. Perhaps it is time for you to search them out in your own state and find your own piece of Mysterious America. ,


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Thisilldous Eatery presents

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN COOPERSTOWN DINER

136 1/2 MAIN ST, COOPERSTOWN, NY 13326 607-282-4367 • COOPERSTOWNDINER.COM We have all heard of the big-time restaurants. Many of us have been to a few. Americas in New York City was massive, as was their menu. But bigger is not always better. This month we’d like to take a ride up to that baseball mecca called Cooperstown and bring you to a diner that is SO small – they have only half an address. It SO small they are on the Delish Magazine’s Top 12 List of Tiniest Restaurants in the World. It is SO small my 900Z could almost block the entire width of the restaurant. Let’s ride to the Cooperstown Diner. But first a bit of history on this now baseball famous town. The village, located about 4 hours north of New York City, was founded in 1786 by William Cooper. Technically the name was original “Village of Otsego” and then changed to honor him in 1812. Otsego remains the name of the county where Cooperstown resides, and the lake on which it sits. A little know factoid on Otsego Lake. This is the start of the Susquehanna River, the longest river on the east coast as it flows 444 miles to the Chesapeake Bay. It was also the longest river in the early 21st-century continental United States without commercial boat traffic. But, let’s stay up by Ostego Lake and Cooperstown. The natural setting of Cooperstown is breathtaking. Add to that the charm of Main Street and its local businesses, Cooperstown is a beautiful place to visit. But most know it for the Baseball Hall of Fame. The Hall of Fame was established in 1939 by Stephen Carlton Clark, an heir to the Singer Sewing Machine fortune. Clark sought to bring tourists to a city hurt by the Great Depression, which reduced the local tourist trade, and Prohibition, which devastated the local hops industry. Clark constructed

tasty places to take your bike


BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021 the Hall of Fame’s building, and it was dedicated on June 12, 1939. The Hall and the stadium are a joy to see if you are a ball and stick fan as well as a rider. But, after taking all that in you will be mighty hungry and we have a big idea for you …in this littlest of diners. It was built back in 1922 and was called Pitcher’s Lunch – not that this had anything to do with baseball – the owner was Harry Pitcher. Ironic, right? It is now owned by the Haywood family, and it is in very good hands indeed, as you will see. When we stopped by it was a mid-week late morning, and we still were able to grab a table. Our waiter was handling the entire diner, tiny as it is, but he seemed to have everything well in hand. Although it was near lunchtime, a quick perusal of the breakfast side of things made us happy we had gotten there at the perfect time for a late breakfast. All the regular egg dishes were there as well as Greek Eggs – two eggs any style over a bed of spanakopita filling consisting of spinach, scallions, parsley, dill and oregano mixed with feta cheese atop grilled bread. Following that there was Georgia Eggs – two poached eggs over the diner’s signature homemade sausage gravy on a toasted English muffin and a Mediterranean Omelet which adds tomato to the spanakopita, a side of potatoes and onions with a wheat English Muffin. It is hard to go wrong here to start your riding day. Shira went south to Georgia and I created my own dish, which they were happy to whip up in fast time. The lunch and dinner meals look great and we have heard their hamburgers could go to the Hall of Fame. Their sandwich platters looked interesting as well. The Fenimore – Tuna or chicken salad melt with Swiss cheese or the Ostego Wrap looked good as well – chicken cordon bleu, buffalo, or chicken with bacon. Dessert, if you still have room for it? A slice of their store-baked pies with a scoop of ice cream should finish your meal off in a delicious and sugary way. It’s all good. ,

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WE’RE OUTTA HERE HISTORIC TAPOCO LODGE

14981 TAPOCO ROAD, ROBBINSVILLE NC 28771 828-498-2800 • TAPOCO.COM Finding history wherever we travel, our recent trip south to ride some of the most amazing motorcycle roads in the country brought us to one such destination. While many riders will have the Tail of the Dragon as a bucket list item, we have ‘been there, done that’ but, after riding such roads as the Moonshiner, we figured we best give the Dragon another run. At the tail of the Tail (or above the head, however you may look at it) you will find a most excellent place to lay your head for a night or more. Dating back to the 1930, with major updates, additions and renovations since, the Historic Tapoco Lodge makes for one great spot to store your gear while exploring the MANY, MANY roads, paths and trails this portion of the United States has to offer.

a weekend destinationkeeping you on the backroads The Tapoco Lodge, getting its name from the first letters of the former Tallassee Power Company which was responsible for the building of the Cheoah Dam, first housed their workers on this property. The dam was finished in 1919 and about a decade later, in 1930, the Aluminum Company of America (or ALCOA as most know them), which was the majority shareholder of the Tallassee Power Company, built a retreat for their executives on that property. Company president, Andrew Mellon (of Mellon Bank, Carnegie Mellon University and, of course, his tenure as the US Secretary of the Treasury) enjoyed his time spent here and found inspiration for many of his future endeavors. For several decades the lodge was used as a resort by ALCOA as it became more of a family and friends gathering spot than an executive privilege resort. The late 1990s saw the property fall into disrepair and was sold to the Cody family of Robbinsville, NC. Tapoco Lodge was re-opened as a traditional mountain resort for all guest in 1995. Ronnie and Terry Hedrick purchased the property in 2010 and began major renovations and restorations to bring the Lodge back to its ‘glory days’, while establishing it on the National Register of Historic Places. They then passed the baton to the Bailey family of East Tennessee in 2017 who developed the 120-acre property into a rich biodiversity, beautifully landscaped with activities for all who come to enjoy its offerings. One of the major draws to this area is the whitewater rafting on the Cheoah River. For 70 years, the Cheoah didn’t run, diverted by the Tapoco Hydroelectric Project (THP). In 2005, an unexpected benefactor brought about a change. The Appalachian elktoe, a species of mussel na-


BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021 tive only to the cool, rapid rivers of western North Carolina and eastern Tennessee, was given a chance for reestablishment and the THP began releasing water from the Santeetlah Dam in 2005. The current operating agreement guarantees at least 18 water releases annually until 2045, making the Cheoah whitewater an anticipated delicacy. We like to keep our thrills on solid ground, and there is no lack of pavement on which to get those thrills here. Coincidentally, the weekend we were there was one of their release weekends, so we got a chance to enjoy the mighty Cheoah at its fullest. After we secured our very spacious and beautiful Cheoah cabin for the evening, we took a short stroll around the property, eventually sitting on the banks of the Cheoah River to watch the turbulence roll by. The Tapoco Lodge has room for a riding group or for a simple romantic escape from the daily grind – with 9 elegantly furnished rooms/suites in the main lodge and 18 cabin rooms scattered about the property. They have kept the great rustic feel to these lodgings while incorporating all the modern convenience

Page 17 you may want. The lodge rooms are void of the distraction of television, as the intoxicating mountain sights and sounds should be enough to entertain or lull you to sleep. To satisfy your hunger and thirst, there is the Tapoco Tavern with indoor and outdoor seating. There are several fire pits for an evening of telling tall tales, with fire starter kits available at the front desk. The Tapoco Tin Movie House has been restored to its glory days when it was also used as a community center, dance hall, and for going away parties for the many local soldiers during World War II. Today they have film screenings on weekends, as well as using it for events. We enjoyed our meal al fresco on the stone patio while watching the waters roll along. The Tavern features a wood-fire pizza oven so we shared a wonderful Margherita pie and a Black and Blue burger, washed down with some local craft brews. The menu is varied and you surely will find something to satisfy your appetite. Fully sated, we joined some other folks at the fire pit and enjoyed some conversation and warmth before heading back to our cabin for a little rest before tackling some more twisties the next day. Planning a trip to the North Georgia/East Tennessee/South North Carolina for some excellent riding, you would be hard-pressed to find a better base ‘camp’ than the Historic Tapoco Lodge. With all they have to offer, your adventuary is not far away (where adventure and sanctuary come together). ,


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Frontline Eurosports presents

BIG CITY GETAWAY TINICUM GUITAR BARN

2 SHERMAN ROAD, OTTSVILLE, PA 18942 410-847-2749 • WWW.GUITARBARN.COM The exact origin of the guitar is still a mystery. The word “guitar” probably comes from the ancient Greek word kithara, a kind of lyre. Mythology attributes Hermes with creating the first kithara from a tortoise shell, but many likenesses of Apollo show him with this instrument. The world spins, time moves on and everything changes and evolves. The guitar, as we know it, and variations of it began to evolve and came into vogue in the 1800s. The Parlor Guitar was the rage in the late 19th century. These tiny instruments got their name from the room in which they were typically played. In the big band era guitars were seen but rarely stole the show – being more a supportive instrument. Jazz opened up the guitar’s true potential and then men like Les Paul and Leo Fender (who did not play at all) changed the way

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind guitars were perceived. Then came Rock & Roll and things were never the same. Not far from Nockamixom State Park in Pennsylvania, we spotted a small hand-made sign where Durham Road meets Route 611 that simply said ‘Tinicum Guitar Barn’. Like the rare privately-owned book store, a small musical instrument shop is rarely passed and if it is, we try to make time the next ride in the area. Thus, we rolled up to the Tinicum Guitar Barn one sunny Saturday afternoon. Chances are you will be greeted by either the incredibly friendly black Maine Coonish cat Puddy or Karl Huf, who was also very friendly but doesn’t purr like a mourning dove.

Since 1993 Karl has been taking care of guitar enthusiasts from beginners to seasoned pros with a fantastic array of ever-changing guitars that find their way to the barn on this tiny road outside of Ottsville. As we rolled up Karl was just entering and he gladly held the door for us and pointed up the bright painted stairs, walls adorned with all things Rock & Roll, Blues, and guitar-related. Reaching the second floor I stopped just a little


BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021 stunned, which is something a music lover might do when they see a little slice of this guitarist heaven. Karl, has a lot, a lot of very cool instruments from many eras and some new pieces as well. Along one wall are several amps, some almost as old as me, and along one wall above was a row of lap steel guitars. One corner had a floor chockablock with great acoustics – Fender, Gibson, Martin, Epiphone, Taylor and so many more, some of which I had never even heard. Like when a Seagull 12-string followed me home a few years back. I know, I have a problem. Karl took a comfortable seat, next to a Taylor 12-string that was calling to me, and told us a bit of how the Guitar Barn came to be. Well, like most things, it started small, but in the ‘80s Karl was a local musician and, like some afflicted with ‘guitaritis’ (a non-fatal ailment that manifests itself with the inability to stop acquiring guitars), he just kept buying collecting, and finding more and more guitars. Finally, he came up with the thought to move it all to his barn and…okay, that is a fib…his wife told him why don’t you just open a guitar store. And, so here he is nearly 30 years later talking to two motorcycle riders, one of whom feels a bit dizzy and keeps making sure he has his wallet in his Aerostich suit. Bass guitars, ukulele, and the like are all welcome here and Karl has an ever-changing roster of great instruments that can come or go, depending on who the next visitor to the Guitar Barn is. Looking away from the 12-string Taylor I picked up the alluring smile and wink from a Fender Mustang. She looked very inviting, but the pink color was a deal-breaker for me. Sorry, Molly, I can’t do pink. For some reason, Shira has taken a strong affection for Gretch guitars.

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Yes, she does have great taste. Karl had two parked next to each other; a blue Streamliner and a stunning sunburst beauty. Aye, Yi, Yi… I felt the fever comin’ on! But, there was another… a Paul Reed Smith Santana SE in metallic blue. In my price zone. Oh, oh. I had to get out of there toot sweet. But, the great thing about the Tinicum Guitar Barn is that it is open Wednesday through Sunday, from 12 to 5, or by appointment at other times. I can and will come back. Maybe with the Durango? The barn is in a great area for riding and Shira’s favorite ice cream joint on the planet, Owowcow Creamery, is a short ride from the barn. If you are a guitarist, know a guitarist, or ride with a guitarist… take a visit to the Tinicum Bike Barn and say hello to Karl and Puddy. The guitar player will thank you. ,


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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021

CONRAD’S CONFECTIONERY 107 WESTWOOD AVE, WESTWOOD, NJ 07675 • 201-664-2895 • CONRADS1928.COM OPEN YEAR ROUND – ICE CREAM MAY THRU SEPTEMBER It’s amazing when things have been around for so many years, in an area that you frequent, but yet you have never stopped in. Such was the case with this month’s Inside Scoop. I was having lunch with my sister in Westwood, NJ. After lunch, we took a little stroll around this cute little town with many shops to keep one entertained. We walked past Conrad’s and she said, ‘Oh, you must have been here before.’ I looked at the store front and said, ‘Nope, never in my life.’ She was amazed, as Conrad’s has been satisfying people’s sweet tooths since 1928. Fred Conrad, born in South Africa, moved to the United States in 1922 where he began his confectionery trade in Hoboken, NJ. He took courses in NYC to further his chocolate-making process and opened his own shop in Oradell, which he thought would be a no-brainer as it was the end of the train line from NYC. He found that moving to Westwood, where his true clientele resided, was in his best interest so, when finances were better, he moved there in 1935. At the time there were nine soda fountains serving ice cream sodas and sundaes, along with every drug and stationery store making egg creams and malteds. To move Conrad’s to the top of the list, Fred married the soda fountain model with his homemade candy business. This brought in the school kids for an after-school treat as well as the couples sharing a booth in the back of the shop. When Fred Conrad retired in 1960, his long-time employee Jim Pouletsos, along with his partner Kenny Fournier, bought the business, with Pouletsos buying Fournier out in 1979. This was the first of three generations to run Conrad’s, with JJ Krachtus, Jim’s grandson, now holding the reigns. Throughout these years the same recipes and basic ingredients have remained, while technology has improved the process. Refrigeration in the 1930’s could not complete the ice cream freezing process, so the old-fashioned ice and salt system was employed. In 1938, Conrad purchased a batch freezer, making life much easier, as toting 10-12 blocks of ice to the ice crusher was a bit of a chore. Pouletsos taught his son-in-law, John, who taught his son, JJ Krachtus, using the same batch method as Fred did to make his homemade ice cream. Only the finest ingredients are used, with chocolate chips, nuts and fruit mixed in by hand while the ice cream is still soft. The high butterfat content gives Conrad’s ice cream its richness and superior taste. During our visit, the inside seating was not available, but they have an excellent walk-up window which certainly serves its purpose. There were 20 flavors from which to choose, along with an incredible selection of toppings and ways to mix and match your choices: cups, cones, sundaes and such. Some of the top picks (IMHO) were Coffee, Black Raspberry Chocolate Chip, Coconut, Maple Walnut and Salted Caramel Chip but I had to go for the odd ball – Folk Song Mule: Peanut Butter ice cream with graham crackers and chocolate chips. Along with their homemade hard ice cream, the menu includes their Sweets & Treats, a selection of ice cream sandwiches, fresh fruit bars and Love Bars, a rotating flavor variety of ice cream coated with a dark chocolate shell. This day the temptations were vanilla, mint, raspberry and coffee. Oh, for the want of a freezer bag!


BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021 While we were here for their ice cream, Conrad’s is famous for their confections. Each year, when autumn rolls around and the air turns nippy, the candy process begins, starting with Halloween candy and rolling through to Easter bunnies. While innovations have certainly been made in the candy-making industry, Conrad’s continues in the old-fashioned ways. 50-pound cases of 10-pound blocks of solid chocolate are regularly delivered from Merckens Mill in Massachusetts. 2.5 tons of chocolate are used for Easter alone! The basement is the holy ground for this confectionery construction, where the stainless steel melter transforms those blocks into liquid which then goes into the over 100 antique tin molds ranging from Easter bunnies to the leg lamp from A Christmas Story. The finished molds are hand decorated and individually wrapped. In addition to the molded chocolates, there are large assortments such as caramels, jellies, creams, turtles sold by the pound, with the ‘insides’ all handmade from the finest ingredients. Topping off this old-timey tradition is the making of Candy Canes.

Page 21 Every year, the confection furnace, a single gas burner holding an antique copper bowl, is fired up to cook the mixture of sugar, corn syrup, cream of tartar and water. The cooked mixture is the poured onto an oiled stainless-steel table with pipes underneath filled with cold water cool the candy. The process is time-consuming but done with love (you can read the whole story on their website).

True candy lovers can taste the difference between those tiny cellophanewrapped imposters and these hand-pulled canes. It is why Conrad’s has become a holiday tradition for generations of customers who accept no less than the best. While the ice cream window is only open from May thru September, you can still bring home pints of homemade ice cream as well as their individually wrapped Sweets & Treats year-round. But do indulge in their chocolate should you stop by – you’d be missing out on some of the best chocolates you have ever tasted. Enjoy your visit to Westwood! See you on the road. ,


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Backroads Holiday Wish List Dear Backroads People, I am 8 years old. Some of my little friends say there is no Santa Claus. Papa says, ‘If you see it in Backroads, it’s so.’ Please tell me the truth; is there a Santa Claus? Virginia O’Hanlon Ginny, Hell yes there’s a Santa Claus, a Papa Noel, Kris Kringle, Weihnachtsmann (trying saying that, little girl!). Not only is he real, he’s coming to visit in just a few weeks. I bet you have a list for him. We do, too! Dear Christmas Man, Okay, I’ve been naughty… my thought this year has been ‘Be Bad, Have Fun’… but bring me some cool stuff anyway! Here are a few items that have hit the redline this year. Thanks, Brian (PS – The good stuff is behind the cookies and milk!)

BREMBO 19RCS CORSA CORTA MASTER CYLINDER Don’t we all want better brakes? Well, it sems that every MotoGP and World Superbike racer is using one master cylinder – the Brembo 19RCS Corsa Corta. All riders wish that their bike was comfortable enough to tour on and fast and nimble enough to hit the canyons. I know I do…This is where the Brembo Corsa Corta Master Cylinder thrives. It features three different bite-point settings: Normal, Sport and Race. The Brembo RCS System allows the rider to choose between more power or more precision to best complement their riding style, track/street conditions and other brake components. Hey Santa, $375… What do you think? (Nick, behind the milk & cookies… nudge, nudge.)

ADAPTIVE TPX RADAR & LASER DETECTOR 2.0 You can love LEOs, but not want to play with them on the road. They always win. Avoiding them and all Imperial Entanglements is almost a game… so help me out Nick! I want to find a TPX Radar and Laser Detection System 2.0 under the tree. The TPX is water, shock, and vibration resistant and has oversized buttons that even I can operate. It’s large, angled, top-positioned LCD optimizes viewing from all riding positions and is easily viewable in direct sunlight. The TPX System detects all police radar and laser bands used in the US and comes with a two-year warranty. Backroads once did a side-by-side testing and we found the TPX to be as sharp as, and sometimes more sensitive than, the Valentine-1 – so think about it, okay? It lists for $399 at adaptivtech.com.

GAUNTLET GLOVES FROM CALIFORNIA HEAT Santa, you, more than anyone, know how cold hands are dangerous hands. Not only can they get painful, they simply can’t handle what is asked of them. My old electric gloves barely work and have been not-so-expertly repaired by me multiple times. Wouldn’t it be great to see a pair of California Heat’s Gauntlet Gloves (Size L, please) under the Hannukah Bush. If you don’t have them at the workshop, you can get a pair from california-heat.com for just $170.

RKA LUGGAGE We have been using RKA luggage for years now, and with good reason; they make some of the best two-wheel luggage on the planet. We’re really big fans of their tank bags that offer ease of use, extreme durability and are just simply well-designed and built. They offer a number or styles, sizes and custom colors as well. Log onto rka-luggage.com to see their latest and greatest. So Kris, get one of these for all of my riding friends – it’s the holidaze and I want all of them to be happy as well.

SHIRA KAMIL Santa, I’m not going to bother you for anything, but if you can pass this note along to Hannukah Harry, I would be much obliged. He doesn’t ask if we’ve been naughty or nice, he just works on Jewish guilt and passes out something to everyone, and for eight crazy nights! What a deal. Thanks Harry – see you right after Thanksgiving… It’s been a while since I’ve had new boots – mine are starting to wear thin around the sole – so here’s a choice for you, as I know the supply chain has got your panties in a bunch: Sidi Gavia ($289) – these would replace what I already own and have proven to be a formidable boot for the miles of riding I do each year. The mid-height is just right for me and the Gore-Tex keeps my toes warm and dry. If you can’t track those down I’ll take the


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Tourmaster Solution ($139) – another very good mid-height boot which uses HiPora for their waterproofness, I have used these in the past and they hold up well to the elements and abuse of the road. If one of these happens to be in your sights, I wouldn’t mind a new Nolan N100-5 in Hi-Viz Yellow/Black ($440). Mine is doing fine, but has a few chips here and there – I know, I need to be more careful where I place it – and it has been a few years since it was new. Everyone has a certain ‘head’ fit and mine is Nolan. It’s light for a modular, the ultra-wide face shield allows for great vision all around, the ventilation works great and the removable liners are super comfy and can be easily refreshed.

MARK BYERS Dear Santa, I hope that you do not mind I used your personal cell number to text you… Rathjen said it was okay. Wishing you great navigation this year… um, we can help! Mark • Scribe and Flight Engineer U.S.Navy This Christmas I think better illumination is always good for the sleigh and my bike. Looking at Twisted Throttle’s Denali Lights I think you will just have to make a quick stop in Exeter, Rhode Island to get this one covered. Their DM LED Light Kit with DataDim Technology will be just what I need to light up the road after the sun has gone to bed. Log onto denalielectronics.com to see them all. And, since we have the lights covered and I can ride way into the night, let’s see if we can make it a more comfortable ride for Mrs. Byers and me. I have had Sargent Seats and have found them to always make the ride that much more pleasurable. This is a great company and when my RT passenger seat heater switch broke, they replaced it at no charge. I have a new RT and could use a new seat. They stand behind their stuff and have a seat for just about every machine. Take a look at www.sargentcycle.com and you’ll see why I want one for the new ride.

DAN BISBEE Dear Santa, I’ve been a good boy this year (and this time I mean it). What I would really like is a hoverbike. It would even be OK if you got me the ultralight version this year. Maybe you could fly it to me. I bet it’s faster than reindeer! I promise I would always be careful and wear a parachute (or not), but you can check it out at jetpackaviation.com. In the event that Mom says “no” to that, here are a couple of other ideas for you:

SHOEI RF1400 My helmet is seven years old and, well, it’s getting a bit stinky and I think it’s time for a new one. I don’t need a flip up chin bar or a flip down visor or even Bluetooth connectivity. I just want a good basic helmet like a Shoei RF1400. Plain white or Brilliant Yellow so those cage-bound crazies can see me. I would wear it on my hoverbike too! You can snatch one from Shoei for just $529 – I think I might be worth it.

NEMO 2 CHAIN OILER I’m not very good about oiling my chain and those Scottoilers are cool but I’ve heard they are a bit tricky to set up. I like the Nemo2 from Cobrra. I promise I would fill it and use it. You can search this out at www.cobrra.sk.

E-Z PASS HOLDER Finally, for my stocking, I would like an EZ-Pass holder. Vermont doesn’t have any toll roads (except for those cool ones that go to the tops of mountains.) But all the other states are phasing out their toll booths and switching to those automatic money-grabber things that read your EZ-Pass. So, when I get my EZ-Pass, I would like a way to hold it on my bike. Thank you very much, Santa.

PAMELA COLLINS Dear Santa, I promise I’ve been a (relatively) good girl this year and I really don’t need much. However, since it is that time of the year and I don’t want you to think I don’t appreciate the job you do, I’ll ask for just a couple of things in keeping with the seasonal tradition. I just love riding my motorcycle SO MUCH Santa, but sometimes I feel like the abominable snowman when I get off it and have on all that bulky (though protective) gear. I’d like to find a halfway point, where I can ride protected but still look…you know…nice. I think I found the solution. Actually, two of them. The first is from the Rokker company, and it’s a pair of the RokkerTech Mid-Waisted Straight Women’s Jeans. These jeans look just like regular, comfortable denim, but pack serious abrasion resistance at its core, with special protective fibers woven into the denim, that are supposed to last six seconds in a slide if I should unintentionally dismount from my Triumph. Adding in the protection of D3O Ghost knee and hip impact armor make them the whole package— and much lighter. They cost $429. Pricey, but I have been good. If you think that’s a little out of your price range, Santa, then please consider the Draggin’ Women’s Comfort Straight Leg. They feature tapered legs and are constructed with 11.5 ounce four-way stretch denim and lined at the knee and backside with knitted 13.5-ounce DuPont KEVLAR aramid fiber lining. These cost only $205 with the armor. I hope you have a nice Christmas, Santa, and thanks ever so much!


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TONY LISANTI Santa, seems as I’ve been doing much more dirt and mountain bike riding this year, but this would be a great addition for any of my bikes. The Slacker Digital Suspension Tuner V4 from Motool is the only purpose-built system designed specifically for setting up motorcycle and mountain bike suspension. Not only does it allow you to take your own measurements in real-time using the remote display, it is much faster, more precise and it eliminates the human factor! And you know how things can go when the human factor gets involved. $159.99 from motool. Keeping with my penchant for dirt, a pair of Fox X Comp Boots would keep me quite safe should things go sideways on the trails. Their durability, comfort and flexibility, along with the improved traction for riding rough conditions will help me come home in one piece. $219.95 from foxracing.com.

HOLIDAY GIFT IDEAS and READING SUGGESTIONS DENALI DIALDIM LIGHTING CONTROLLER

The new DENALI DialDim lighting controller allows you to turn on/off and dim two sets of auxiliary lights via a multicolor halo handlebar or dash mounted dimming wheel. The LED halo switch displays light intensity settings, blue halo for set one and green for set two. The DialDim also features intelligent flash signal and horn connections for added attention grabbing safety. You can cancel auxiliary lights with your turn signal, flash lights as a turn signal, or strobe the lights when sounding the horn. Battery monitor and fuse value settings are also accessed through the new DENALI DialDim Lighting Controller. $189.99 • www.DenaliElectronics.com

EATSLEEPRIDE CRASHLIGHT SERVICE

EatSleepRIDE’s Crashlight service turns smartphones into digital guardian angels for riders. Using your smartphone’s sensors and a complex algorithm that was born out of an enormous amount of testing and R&D, the Crashlight service can automatically detect motorcycle crashes. If a crash is detected and the rider isn’t responsive, their coordinates are automatically sent to a predetermined emergency contact(s) who can then summon emergency medical services. While this is a premium feature, it only costs $15 a year, which comes out to less than a nickel per day. And considering that Crashlight has already saved real lives since its launch, we’d argue this is a well-worthwhile investment that every motorcyclist should make, whether they commute on a daily basis or only ride a few times per year. The smartphone app also automatically detects every time you get on a bike to go ride and tracks your journey, recording your GPS route, speed, elevation, and lean angle at any given moment during your ride. Furthermore, you can also share routes with other ESR app users, or checkout rides and routes others have posted — a fantastic resource for discovering some of the best riding roads in existence. Log onto app.eatsleepride.com for more information.

HJC RPHA 1 RED BULL AUSTIN GP HELMET

HJC had a big surprise for the Red Bull Moto GP at Circuit of the Americas last weekend. The RPHA 1 Red Bull Austin GP helmet launched on October 3rd at COTA, coinciding with the date of HJC Helmets 50th anniversary. This marks the first time the energy drink company has licensed its rampant bull logo to any helmet company. Until now, any helmet sporting a Red Bull graphic has been exclusively available to sponsored riders. “We can’t think of a better way to celebrate our 50th anniversary than with the launch of this very special Red Bull licensed helmet,” says HJC America head honcho George Hong. “HJC Helmets has released several successful licensed helmets in the past, but the RPHA 1 Red Bull Austin GP helmet is one of a kind… It only makes sense that two top companies would join together.” The relationship began with HJC supporting the Red Bull MotoGP Rookies Cup and becoming the official helmet partner for the series. From there, the relationship evolved leading up to the release of an exclusive helmet collection that will be available to all motorcycle riders, something that has not been done before with any other brand. HJC will release the highly anticipated RPHA 1 Red Bull Austin GP race helmet to the public in December 2021.

TIRX TIRE CHANGER

While attending MotoGP in Austin a few months back we came across a very cool addition to anyone’s garage. The TiRx tire changer is a newly invented and designed tool. It is made of steel box tubing, plate and round bar stock with plastic rollers and an organically shaped tire bead guide. The machine weighs less than 20 pounds and has three moving parts and is typically mounted on a wall by securing the base of the tool to the underlying wood 2x4 wall studs and allows riders to


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change their own motorcycle tires. Quickly and easily. This tool “breaks” the tire bead free of the wheel rim and slides the old tire off and the new tire on to the wheel rim. Additionally, the tire changer is used to perform a static balance of the wheel and tire after mounting by identifying the heavy point on the radius of the wheel. We watched the creator of the TiRx, Chuck Tornga, as he demonstrated just how easy his tire changer works. We were more than impressed. If you are looking to change your tires by yourself, the TiRx Tire Changer may be the perfect investment at around $500. Check their website at tirxmoto.com to watch their videos and for more information.

HOLIDAY BOOK CLUB

The months after the Holidaze are usually long, dreary and drab. Make them pass a bit more quickly and enjoyably with a great book. Here are four that are worth the time and effort.

THE RIDERS • MOTORCYCLE ADVENTURERS, CRUISERS, OUTLAWS, AND RACERS THE WORLD OVER The Riders explores and celebrates the differences and common bonds among motorcyclists around the world via Henry von Wartenberg’s engaging and inviting documentary photography. Motorcyclists feel a kinship with fellow riders that is not easily explained but runs deeper than choices like bike brand or riding focus. You see it sometimes with a wave of the hand from one lane to the next, with an appreciative nod at a stoplight, or in a U-turn to check on a rider stranded on the roadside. Motorcyclists make a conscious decision to ride an inherently dangerous device, a machine open to the elements and vagaries of nature. A motorcycle demands a level of attention far greater than a car and consequences for inattention are much graver. On the flip side, riding a motorcycle offers an unmatched sense of freedom, adventure, and involvement. Simply put… we have more fun than everyone else on Santa’s list! Von Wartenberg, a long-time rider himself, has traveled the world on a variety of assignments, some motorcycle related and others not. But wherever he was on the planet, he always found a way to connect with fellow riders and document their culture and machines. Over the course of his travels, he has photographed riders in more than 30 countries. What emerges on the pages of The Riders is the amazing breadth of the motorcycling world, from clubs to adventurers to racers to boulevard cruisers to those for whom a motorcycle is the only form of transportation as well a means to make a living. Along for this ride and adding words to the great images are the likes Paul D’Orleans, Peter Egan, Aerostich’s Andy Goldfine and Dave Nichols. The foreword is by Emilio Scotto, author of The Longest Ride, and one hell of a nice man. Available at bookstores and Amazon for $28.

TON UP! A CENTURY OF CAFÉ RACER SPEED AND STYLE BY PAUL D’ORLEANS This excellent book traces café racer history from the late nineteenth century to today, telling the story of the machines, the riders, the builders, the style, and the culture of the café racer world. Ton Up! focuses on the story of the ton-up boys and their café racers. But it’s much more than just that. Illustrated with historic and modern photos and featuring a text by one of the world’s motorcycle historians, it’s really the story of motorcycle speed and style evolved from the early 1900s right through today. Today, ton-up culture is more popular than ever and recognized worldwide with a following of young and long-time riders alike. With Ton Up!, enjoy a scenic ride through the history of this vibrant scene. Preview the book here: http://bit.ly/33mjww5

THE MOTOLADY’S BOOK OF WOMEN WHO RIDE: MOTORCYCLE HEROES, TRAILBLAZERS & RECORD BREAKERS Written and curated by Alicia Mariah Elfving, The MotoLady’s Book of Women Who Ride subverts all the tired women-and-motorcycle tropes, offering the true stories of the women past and present who ride and wrench as well as anyone, proving every bit as indispensable to maintaining and growing a positive motorcycling culture. Elfving presents more than 70 figures in the motorcycle world, from the Americas to Europe, the Middle East and South Asia—stunt riders, racers, builders, customizers, organizers, and more. Elving links today’s women motorcyclists with those of the past and illustrates the freedom represented by two wheels, and how motorcycles allow women to transcend cultural expectations confidently. You’ll meet riders such Sofu Tsingos, Brittany Morrow, the Van Buren sisters and the late Jesse Combs. Overwhelmingly positive, Elfving instills confidence and can-do rather than providing an echo chamber of common complaints among women in motorcycling. In addition, The MotoLady’s Book of Women Who Ride is illustrated throughout with contemporary and historical photo of the author’s subjects comprising a beautiful as well as inspiring package. Available from bookstores and Amazon $20

GASTRO OBSCURA • A FOOD ADVENTURERS GUIDE BY CECILY WONG AND DYLAN THURAS If you have been reading Backroads for a bit, or receiving our weekly The Backroads Report then you might recognize the name Atlas Obscura. These people really dive deep to bring the most interesting, unusual, and sometimes just plain crazy people, places and things on our planet. Their new book is truly a feast of wonder: This superb guide transforms our sense of what people around the world eat and drink. Covering all seven continents, Gastro Obscura serves up a loaded plate of incredible ingredients, food adventures, and edible wonders. Ready for a beer made from fog in Chile? Sardinia’s “Threads of God” pasta? Egypt’s 2000-year-old egg ovens? But far more than a menu of curious delicacies and unexpected dishes, Gastro Obscura reveals food’s central place in our lives as well as our bellies, touching on history–trace the network of ancient Roman fish sauce factories. Culture–picture four million women gathering to make rice pudding. Travel–scale China’s sacred Mount Hua to reach a tea house. Festivals–feed wild macaques pyramid of fruit at Thailand’s Monkey Buffet Festival. And hidden gems that might be right around the corner, like the vending machine in Texas dispensing full sized pecan pies. Dig in and feed your sense of wonder. If you are an intrepid eater and are willing to try something different then dive into Gastro Obscura. It’s a delicious book! $30.95 from Amazon.

Wishing everyone a happy, healthy, joyous and fun-filled holiday season. Let’s all get out there and make 2022 a kick-ass year. Ride Far, Ride Well, Ride the Backroads.


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MotoGP

words + images: Brian Rathjen As the world began to open up from the bootless lockdowns and mandates of 2020, we began to make long-term plans for a trip later in the year to Valencia, Spain, and the final round of MotoGP for 2021. Then the race in Texas was announced and Spain was scrapped and Texas was now in focus. Although we put the word out to many, only our friends John and Laurie took the bait – although they did not need much persuading. Others we knew, like our friends and semi-neighbors Keith and Deb, would drive out, and another friend Jon, once press-maven for American Honda, would be Texas-bound as the calendar ran from September and into October. When I looked back on it this story was about big wins; starting with the Mets last home game of the ‘not-such a surprise’ baseball season – the end of the season (at least in Flushing) and also the end of a storied legacy of road racing in the United States as well. I wish I could be writing about days and miles on the road, riding down to Texas, but the truth is we drove to CitiField to watch the game with fellow friends and riders, more to hang out, but keeping an eye on the Mets trouncing of the Marlins, capped off by a Grand Slam and the second solo homer by Pete Alonzo that night. The season might have fallen apart for our team, but the game and company were more than excellent to Shira and me.

AUSTIN, TEXAS

As Howie Rose was saying to “Put it in the books!” we headed to a Crowne Plaza outside Newark airport for the night and to stash the Audi for a few days.

Friday – Practice

“You may all go to hell and I will go to Texas.” Davy Crockett Early morning saw us winging our way to Austin, Texas, and the U.S. Round of MotoGP. It was a short drive with the rented Chevy Impala (Enterprise, of course) to COTA, and we were walking into the track in time to catch the end of the first round of practice for Moto III; the junior division featuring some young riders that may or may not be the future stars of the sport in the premier class. There was a decent crowd here this day, but nothing like the mass of riders and fans that would be on hand on Sunday – race day.

The vendor area was interesting, with a few new products to be found. The MotoGP and COTA booths were all doing a brisk business, with the line for Valentino Rossi tees, flags, and other #46 items getting increasingly longer by the minute. Nicky Hayden, posthumously, was inducted into the Motorsports Hall of Fame in the class of 2021, and there were lines of equal Rossi length to purchase #69 memorabilia as well. We saw one fan flying a


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Nicky Hayden flag and finally tracked it down, to be proudly flown at Backroads Central. BMW, KTM, Honda, and Suzuki were all there giving demos, with some supplying helmets if you hadn’t brought your own. We watched the first practice for Moto2 and then strolled the massive Circuit of the Americas with John and Laurie, whom we found taking in practice near the first turn with the uphill sweeping decreasing radius left run atop it. We grabbed some lunch from one of the food vendors scattered around the track and took a seat for the rest of the day before driving to our digs for the next three nights - La Calavera Casita – a truly ‘Keep Austin Weird’ sort of place … in the best of ways. Shira had found this last year before the Texas round of MotoGP got Fauci’d, and we lucked out on getting it again this time around. Our new go-to place when in Austin.

Page 27 That night we met up with Jon for dinner. Being that there was a music festival in town that same weekend – what a surprise – we opted to forgo downtown and instead drove over to a trendy barbeque/fusion restaurant before heading back to La Calavera Casita.

Saturday – Qualifying This track is a premier destination for world-class motorsports and entertainment in the United States. Set on 1,500 acres in the rolling hills just outside downtown Austin, Circuit of The Americas has hosted the biggest names in racing, action sports, and music since 2012. At its heart is a 3.41-mile racetrack that was designed to challenge the world’s most exacting competitors while providing a thrilling spectacle for audiences. The 20-turn, counterclockwise circuit takes advantage of the naturally undulating landscape, including an intimidating 133-foot hill at Turn 1 that must be seen in person to be believed. It is home to the U.S Formula 1 Grand Prix and MotoGP races – the only ones in the country. It is also the largest permanent outdoor amphitheater in Central Texas, and its 251-foot signature observation tower. This unique treasure in the Live Music Capital of the World has hosted some of the biggest names in music and entertainment, including Texas icon Willie Nel-


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son, Jimmy Buffett, KISS, Kenny Chesney, Maroon 5, and dozens more. A little-known band from England called The Rolling Stones would be taking the stage later in the year. We were back at COTA first thing the next day to take in some more practice before the qualify sessions that afternoon. For those who are not race fans, the Q1 & Q2 sessions set up the starting positions for the big races to be held on Sunday. Although I have never thought that “Pole” was a must, it certainly helps to be in the first two rows of the races, as a good start can make all the difference at times. We’d see that in action on Sunday. With all the racers’ positions settled by 4 pm, we headed back into Austin and made a stop by the Super Mercado to stock up on burgers, dogs, ribs (?) and adult beverages – as we had a grill and staying put in our most excellent AirBnB for the night was much more enticing than trying to find a restaurant during a weekend where Austin was hosting both MotoGP and a music festival. That evening Keith and Deb joined us and, with Moto III, II, and the American Grand Prix in the premier class coming our way; things were very good in Texas!

Then there was the Marquez crowd against everybody else; everyone else returned the good-hearted jabs. No matter who you may have been backing, everyone was excited to see Valentino Rossi, as he would be racing for the last time in the United States.

Moto 3

Sunday – Race Day Although there were decent crowds all three days, Sunday saw the crowd size easily tripled. Although we had bounced around from section to section the previous days, this day we found our real ticketed seats and made ourselves at home; chatting it up with other race fans in the surrounding stand along turn 15, offering us good views of turns 12, 13 and 14 as well. The binoculars could bring us to turns 10 and 11, but we also had a massive video screen to watch every part of the action. Even with all that was going on this weekend with the Delta variant, there were still over 100,000 in attendance; and it was the race fans, as much as the races themselves, that made this MotoGP return to Texas so much fun. Here at COTA, there was not us vs. them, no vaxers vs. non-vaxers, no blue vs. red – but just race fans finally getting to see MotoGP right in front of them. For sure there was friendly banter between folks backing their favorite racer… Okay, maybe blue vs red here – but that was just the Quatararo and Morbidelli fans (Yamaha) vs Bagnaia and Miller peeps (Ducati).

This class always entertains. Most of them are still in their teens, and it shows with that age bravado and desire to win and prove themselves. The original race was red-flagged with 7 laps completed (and 10 remaining) after Filip Salac needed medical attention following a highside. A 5-lap dash was announced for the restart, but with three laps to go there was a massive accident on the back straight when Jeremy Alcoba clipped the back wheel of Deniz Oncu and fell, with Andrea Migno and Acosta then being launched into the air after hitting Alcoba’s stricken bike at around 160mph. Although out of our immediate view we saw it all on the big screen and there was a collective gasp from the entire track. Miraculously, none of the riders were seriously hurt, and then there was a collective applause as all the riders were shaken, but not stirred. With less than 2/3rds of the restart completed and no time for another restart (unless moved to the end of the day), as per the rules, the result was taken from the end of the first race. That meant Guevara - who had retired from the restart lead with a technical problem, leaving him in tears after a meltdown in the pits (He is just 17, you know what I mean) - was suddenly declared a first-time Grand Prix winner. Dennis Foggia had closed to within 30 points from Acosta, while fellow title contender Sergio Garcia was ruled out of the remainder of the weekend after a hematoma on his kidney was discovered following a Friday fall.


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Moto 2

World championship leader Remy Gardner fell from an early second place while chasing team-mate and title rival Raul Fernandez, meaning the Australian’s world championship lead had been reduced to just 9 points with three rounds to go. Fabio di Giannantonio then made occasional gains in pursuit of Fernandez, but never got within reach of the Red Bull Ajo rider. Rounding out the podium was Marco Bezzecchi with US rider Cameron Beaubier right on his tail in fourth.

MotoGP

start to push. That’s exactly what I did, and then I saw I increased the gap and was riding comfortably.” Also on the podium were points leader Fabio Quartararo second, and Francesco Bagnaia taking a distant third. Still, every race has another story as Joan Mir made contact with Jack Miller, who was skillfully making a charge through the pack. This was the second time in the race Mir had pushed Miller out. This last lap contact cost Miller precious points and he was fuming at making his feelings clear as he grabbed the reigning world champion’s helmet and shouted a warning into the Suzuki rider’s face and on the slowdown lap. To say he was pissed is an understatement. Mir was penalized for his actions. But there was one other thing that had every spectator on their feet, bittersweet as it was… It was Valentino Rossi - #46, the racer, the MotoGP legend. This was his last racing laps on US soil and the pouring out of love and admiration for the Italian who in his long career, more than a quarter of a century, has earned nine World Championships, 115 victories and 235 podiums in

It was now time for the premier class, the big kahuna, the race all had come to see – MotoGP! Like the Metropolitans lop-sided victory over the Miami Marlins at the beginning of this tale, the race was dominated by one man. Eight-time world champion Marc Marquez scored his second victory of the season as MotoGP returned to the COTA circuit for the first time since 2019. The Spaniard, who has six titles in the premier division and two in the support series, led all 20 laps of the main event after starting third. He finished more than 4 seconds ahead of runner-up Fabio Quartararo. It was the 58th career victory in MotoGP and seventh in eight starts at COTA for Marquez, who missed all but one race and the start of the 2021 season after injuring his arm during a crash in the season opener. Marquez celebrated winning the Red Bull Grand Prix of the Americas by carrying a Nicky Hayden flag on his victory. “The plan exactly was like I did the race,” Marquez said. “Start well, be first in the first corner. And then when the tires started to drop a little bit, 414 starts entering the weekend. With one championship in the 250 class, another in 125s, and seven in the top division, Rossi is the only rider in history to win in all three divisions. Everyone stood and cheered as he rode past us - a long wheelie and a happy goodbye wave to the thousand that have been so taken with this man who changed road racing forever. We slowly made our way to the car and, eventually, to La Calavera Casita and one last night in Austin before the ho-hum flight back to New Jersey. MotoGP… is the most exciting racing there is on the planet. We watch every race, follow all the news, and if you ever get the chance to see the best of the best on the fastest and most advanced motorcycles on the planet you should make it happen. We are already set for a return to Austin in April of 2022. The red light goes out for us all! ,


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Moto Weekend 2021

During the second weekend of this September, a lot was going on in the motorcycle world. The International Motorcycle Show, no longer a mid-winter enclosed event because of the pandemic, found itself a reborn Phoenix of sorts, now being held at various outdoor venues across the nation, and this weekend rolling into the fairgrounds at Carlisle, Pennsylvania. There was to be one in New York City, Brooklyn to be specific, but (thankfully) that was canceled. I could not even imagine the logistics of holding a rally with demo rides in Kings County. We had our plan, more or less, etched in mud months back. Hit the IMS Outdoors in Carlisle, overnight and then journey south and east and, eventually the very southern part of New Jersey and to the New Jersey Motorsports Park in Millville, New Jersey.

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Friday, September 10th The International Motorcycle Show Outdoors It seems that there are two completely different ways Shira and I can start a day on the road. While on the road, we are up and at em’ around 8ish. Not so fast at home. There is always something that pops up, diverting our attention and during all this, time keeps on ticking, ticking into the future. Somewhere around 11ish we finally had side stands up and, although we had a twistalicious backroads route from home to the Carlisle Fairgrounds, we also knew we needed to be there by 3pm the latest to get a good four hours in before the 7 pm closing time. As we rode along on this brilliant day we talked ourselves, via Bluetooth, into a Plan B. We’d ride through the first part of the GPX route and make a stop at Hermy’s BMW to say hello. From there we would slab it across the rest of I-78 (as horrific and ghastly as it is) and then turn it up south on I-81 (far more civilized) and get to the International Motorcycle Show right on schedule – which we did.

We have heard mixed reviews from the northern California and Chicago shows, but the weather was perfection and we knew the Carlisle venue had a great location, with especially superior roads for demo rides - so went there with an open mind. While parking we talked with several riders who had been there all day and were walking to their bikes to head home; asking them their opinion of the event. Other than a few kvetching on the lack of a few notable manufacturers, it seemed all had a most excellent time. We got our wristbands and began exploring the IMS Outdoors. Before we go any further let’s take a look at the various complaints and the reality of the now-defunct New York City Show. Compare and contrast if we will. The middle of winter, cold, wet, cramped – and there was never a show we left without feeling like we had been sequestered. You could sit on bikes, but


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Page 31 no one was riding them and then there was New York City. Congested, you needed to take a loan on your home to pay for parking and, as much as it was a motorcycle thing to do in winter, we never relished it. But, this day everything was spread out. The vendors that were there were actually motorcycle vendors, well, all but two or

three, and not only could you see the newest offering from the OEMs, for the most part, you could take them for a ride as well. Add in the fresh air and the rays of the yellow sun that power up Kryptonians and it was about as motorcycle-perfect as you could ask for. Little ones on Stryders, a rock band that was spot on, but not so loud that you couldn’t hold a conversation or hear yourself think. Plenty of very good food vendors and a great line-up of manufacturers that did come for the weekend. The Pan America, the new Adventure machine from The Motor Company, was there, as well as the new Sportster. Both available to ride.

Zero has showed that electric bikes don’t have to be boring and their newest offering were downright beautiful. Kawasaki, Yamaha, and Honda assured that all the Japanese brands had a healthy line-up as well as Triumph, Royal Enfield, and Beta being there as well. One shop, Karns Performance in Mechanicsburg, brought a bevy of Benelli – very nice and their TNT 135 bike (think Italian Grom) had us almost reaching for our wallets. We stopped to have a new set of custom earplugs created by In Earz Sport, spent a good amount of time with one of the Harley reps and the Pan America – an ADV machine even the moderately in-seamed Shira was comfortable on. The Antique Motorcycle Club had their usual impressive collection on hand and we spoke with each and every vendor and were impressed by what was being offered. We even had a chance to speak with the national sales manager for Yuasa Batteries about the power-side of the industry


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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021 During the meal we talked a bit about how the IMS outdoors had a real festival feel to it. Familyfriendly, great location, and value and a much-needed shot in the arm for the industry. It was well attended that Friday, but we heard that crowds poured in during the rest of this superb weekend. The great weather and mid-September date probably helped a great deal as well. We think the event was a winner for the OEMs and the attendees as well and we are looking forward to next year.

Saturday, September 11th Moto America

before sliding over to Honda and chatting with our buddy Rob Doyle, Honda’s Jeff Weiner, and road race maven Kevin Erion (a true treat to meet him). That evening we met up with the entire Honda crew for dinner at a local diner – I even won an alligator for Shira with one of those ‘claw’ games in the lobby. What we’d do with a foot-long alligator was anyone’s guess but Carlisle Lacoste, as he was named, made it through the weekend and into his new home at Monkey with a Gun.

Like most Americans, we arose this day and, while going through the morning ablutions, it hit me what day it was. September 11th. The realization that it was 20 years ago was just as staggering. We quietly took breakfast at the hotel and then got on our way, both of us taking a quiet and personal moment at 8:46. There would be more personal moments as many of the towns we rode through were holding public gatherings in remembrance. The day started chilly and riding in the shadows before the sun cleared the trees added to the nip. I told Shira I needed to layer up and she was totally with that. I looked for a safe Port ‘o Call roadside and was happily surprised that we pulled over right at the crossing for the Appalachian Trail – something we always seem to run into on our east coast journeys. I took it as an omen of good times ahead. The route from Carlisle to Millville was plotted to squeeze as much fun


BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021 out of the Amish Roads as possible and it did just that as the black-top followed the topography, rising over blind hills with nothing but the faraway skyline of the nearby Appalachians in the distance and then running down valleys, along twisting streams still full from Edna’s passing a week back. We crossed into Maryland in a happy and quick manner; running roads much like Pennsylvania to the north… But the fun came to a bit of hiatus as we crossed into the First State of Delaware - Route 40 – a required evil to get us to the end of the Delaware River and then into the Garden State over the twin spans of the Delaware Memorial Bridge. Although I always considered this one crossing consisting of two bridges, the truth is the first span was opened in 1951. With increased auto traffic and the advent of Eisenhower’s Interstate System, a second bridge was planned and that was opened in 1968. While they are similar in basic appearance, major differences can be seen between the original and second spans. The original span was constructed of riveted steel plates, and it has an open-grate shoulder access walk. In contrast, the second span was constructed mostly of welded steel plates (with heavy riveted joints in crucial areas) and it has concrete access walks. However you look at it, the twin spans have been making the crossing from one shore to other a breeze for decades. We quickly exited and then vectored, once again, on tiny backroads – roads that were far different from the backroads of Pennsylvania just an hour or so before. We all know that New Jersey’s nickname is the Garden state – down here you will see that the moniker fits, as all you will see are miles and miles of farms

Page 33 with the occasional small hamlet or larger town breaking up Mother Nature. This bucolic farmland ride did not last for long as it was a fairly short blast to the track and MotoAmerica. For those who might not be aware of America’s premier road racing organization, MotoAmerica is North America’s premier motorcycle road racing series, sanctioned by the AMA and FIM and supported by Dorna. MotoAmerica has reinvigorated motorcycle racing in North America, reintroducing the most exhilarating motorsport in history to fans while grooming a new generation of American and international racers for the world stage. We needed this in the worst way and MotoAmerica has truly come through with some of the best racing on the planet. This was the first time to this track and we were more than impressed. New Jersey Motorsports Park is located on 500 acres immediately adjacent to the Millville Municipal Airport, a location that was dedicated in 1941 as America’s First Defense Airport, which played a key role in the country’s World War II military efforts. NJMP is one of the few facilities in the world housing two circuits that can be operated simultaneously. The tracks both feature many elevation changes, along with lengthy front straightaways. One of the best-known features of this course is a stretch on Thunderbolt Raceway known as “The Jersey Devil.” The Park offers open seating which allows spectators to venture throughout the grounds. Grandstands are available in several locations, in addition to camping areas and on-site hotel and condominium accommodations. The facility includes a fullservice bar and restaurant, The Finish Line Pub, located at the center of the property.


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In addition to the two road courses, NJMP includes a 1.1-mile karting facility called Tempest Raceway. Like the park itself, Tempest consists of two tracks that can be operated simultaneously. It is a great moto facility in every respect. As we rode in, we were almost immediately intercepted by our friend Keene who piloted us through the crowds, groups, and the pits and to the far side of the track. Over the years Backroads has brought many riders into our lives and a few of them have become more than close friends, but what we consider extended family. Newlyweds Lisa & Keene, part of what we have come to call the Southern Contingent, are huge road racing fans and had been at the track since early in the morning so they could set up what could only be described as L & K MotoAmerica Hospitality Tent. Snacks, coolers full of water, and San Pellegrino Italian sparkling drinks all right in front of the track chicane. But, were they done? Heck no! Parked along the MotoAmerica Hospitality Tent were two Kawasaki Z125 Pros – arguably one of the greatest pit bikes on the planet. The keys were there and we did put them to good use during the weekend. It could not get any better – but the next day it did – but, I’ll get to this.

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In addition to the races, they had stunt shows and MotoAmerica is very lenient with letting fans stroll the paddock and a good deal of the facility. There were kids (small and big) on pit bikes, entire families out enjoying the beautiful late summer sun and blue skies and the racing was amazing. We had come to see our local champ Corey Alexander race, but even the very best can have a bad weekend and mechanical gremlins ended his weekend prematurely. Still, it was great to see our friends at Hudson Valley Motorcycles doing their thing – the entire Alexander family is so impressive. We put in a full day at the track and then checked in to a local chain hotel and rode over for dinner with Lisa and Keene. The next morning when we arrived at the track the Dynamic Duo had already set up the MotoAmerica Hospitality Tent. We hung for a bit, but then, following a direct command from Mystery-Maven Dr. Seymour


BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021 O’Life, I split for a few hours that morning to explore the Millville Army Air Museum, just down the road. This was the first Defense Base in the country at the start of the Second World War and now houses a most impressive museum. All this was fantastic and a bonus of sorts; as the real reason I rode over was to see one of the largest collections of Hot Wheel cars in the world. Seymour and I share some priorities. I spent a bit more time than I wanted to and missed the first race of the day, but the disappointment was quickly erased as the rest of the Southern Contingent arrived. And along with them came a bevy of delights – sandwiches, tomato pie, roast pork, chips & salsa, cheeses, fruits, and more cold soft drinks. As Jimmy would say – “Life is Good on Our Boat!” By this time we had gotten over the shyness of asking to borrow the Z125s and, in truth, it is the only way to get around a track of this size. Besides these little bikes are just fun and I see two little ponies coming into the Backroads’ stable very soon. As much fun as we had riding the Z125 Pros around the track, the real joy of the day was watching our friend David Wilson hop on one and take his first two-

Page 35 wheel ride in nearly two years since a horrific and fiery crash (woman making a left turn in front of him). After months in the hospital and so much work it was phenomenal to see our Scotsman aboard a machine again! You rock Dave! In the Superbike Class Fresh N’ Lean Attack Performance Yamaha Racing’s Jake Gagne continues to raise the bar in the MotoAmerica Superbike Championship, securing his first title in the premier class at the penultimate round at New Jersey Motorsports Park. After sealing the deal in Race 2 of the triple-header, the newly crowned champ pulled off an encore performance in the afternoon race to extend his impressive win streak to 16. Josh Herrin returned to the podium with a pair of third-place finishes. The Altus Motorsports team celebrated their second Stock 1000 title in consecutive seasons. Jake Lewis picked up where Cam Petersen left off last year and rode the Altus Suzuki GSX-R1000R to win the class. For me, I could listen to the Twin Class all day long and the races were taken by Corey Ventura and Tommaso Marcon respectively. The Junior Cup races were fun as well, but sadly one


BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021

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rider, Jack Roach, all of 17 years young, tapped the points leader, during the sighting/warm-up lap, and ended up sliding towards us. It was crushing to see this young man climb over the barrier and fall to his knees sobbing at what had just occurred. The thrill of victory and the anguish of defeat.

Heading Home By late afternoon the races were done, moving south to Barber for the next round, and after helping break down the MotoAmerica Hospitality Tent and saying our goodbyes, Shira and I hit the tiny southern New Jersey roads with a plan to ride till the sun was setting and finding a place for the night. We rode through Brandywine, made famous by the Revolutionary War Battle fought between the American Continental Army of General George Washington and the British Army of General Sir William Howe on September 11, 1777. Washington had to retreat, and that would lead to one very important stop the next day. Right outside West Chester, Pennsylvania we spotted a Quality Inn, just down the road from the Ram Diner (named after the local college football team). At $80 we had our home for the night and the diner was pretty darn good too. Three days in the sun took its toll and before I could find American Dad, I was already asleep. We had just 125 miles or so to ride this day; all on the tiniest roads I could muster. I ran us through the town of Paoli. It was here that another horrible blow was dealt by the British to the Continental Army. As Washington retreated, he ordered General Anthony Wayne to keep the British busy. Things did not work out that way. The British were camped at Tredyffrin, preparing to cross the Schuylkill River and attack Philadelphia, but Lord Howe got word that Wayne was lurking in ambush. Howe changed his plans. He would instead try to ambush Wayne at his camp in Paoli. What happened was simply a massacre, as Grey had ordered his men to remove the flints from their rifles before the attack began. Bayonets, a weapon Americans considered barbaric, would be the weapon of choice. 53 Americans were killed and over 100 wounded in Grey’s lightning raid. The site of the battle is now hallowed ground and the story of what happened is hard to fathom. We spent some time there and then quietly rode away. From Paoli it is was a good, quick and fun charge home. Until we ran into the “Bridge Closed” sign. We took it as a suggestion and rode past it just to find… nothing. They never took the signs down after Edna. Ha! Moto Weekend 2021 was all we had hoped for and much more. Great times, great friends, and some superb riding with my honey. See ya on the road! ,


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MOTORCYCLE SPOTLIGHT

2022 SUZUKI GSX-S1000GT • THE SOUL OF A CHAMPION, READY TO GO THE DISTANCE Suzuki is jumping into the long-distance sport touring market with the GSX-S1000GT, a high-performance, yet comfortable motorcycle with optional attractive integrated side cases (or standard as part of the GSXS1000GT+ model) and a sophisticated, avant-garde look that creates its own category – Grand Touring – ready to take the rider any distance with speed and comfort. Suzuki promises the GSX-S1000GT’s total performance is transformative, breaking new ground for a sport touring motorcycle, and the new SUZUKI mySPIN connectivity application integrates with a large, full-color TFT instrument panel. Using legendary and proven GSX-R engine architecture, the 999cc four-stroke, liquid-cooled DOHC in-line four superbike engine should bring smooth, consistent power throughout a wide and linear powerband. Refined engine performance is managed by expanded Suzuki Intelligent Ride System (SIRS) technology, including electronic cruise control, five modes of adjustable traction control and bi-directional clutchless quick-shifting, helping augment sport rides on Sunday mornings as well as cross-continent tours. SIRS is rounded out with an updated Low RPM Assist system and Suzuki’s Easy Start System, providing improved starting control and a simpler starting procedure. The strong twin-spar aluminum frame and braced swingarm help deliver agile handling and great roadholding ability. Visually attractive, the new trellis-style sub-frame design creates secure attachment points for the high capacity 36L side cases, while allowing for a more comfortable passenger seat. The 36L of storage capacity, each side case may hold most full-face helmets. To further integrate them to the motorcycle, an optional color-matched side case painted panel set provides a perfect match to the GSX-S1000GT body colors The GSX-S1000GT’s suspension control will also easily adapt to the needs of two-up riding, thanks to its fully adjustable, inverted KYB fork and easy-toadjust rear shock. The dual, ABS-equipped, radialmounted, four-piston, Brembo-front brake calipers and 310mm floating rotors help provide the confident, controlled stopping performance needed when travelling with a passenger and gear on an extended ride. The rider and passenger seats have a new sporty design maximizing comfort on long rides, and both seats sport a new cover material that balances grip with freedom of movement. The GSX-S1000GT puts a new face on sport touring performance and comfort. The striking and original face of the GT begins with a raked nose, while a pair of horizontally arranged LED headlights, Vshaped position light, new mirror design, and sidemounted LED turn signals fashion a unique Grand Touring appearance that is distinctively Suzuki. The GT’s daring styling continues into the standard side cases and optional touring windshield for a fully integrated appearance. The GSX-S1000GT’s instrument panel uses a newgeneration 6.5-inch, full-color TFT LCD screen. The TFT display was developed to provide smart-

phone connectivity through the SUZUKI mySPIN application. While competitive models use systems originally developed for automobiles, the GSXS1000GT adopts hardware and software designed specifically for the demands of motorcycle use. The GT’s body colors include majestic Metallic Reflective Blue, and the sleek Glass Sparkle Black, each set off with distinctive GT logos, indelibly stamping the 2022 GSX-S1000GT and GT+ as motorcycling’s newest and most sophisticated, high-performance Grand Touring leaders. Manufacturer’s Suggested Pricing for both models will be announced. The all-new 2022 Suzuki GSX-S1000GT and GSX-S1000GT+ will be available in Suzuki dealers in early 2022. For more information, please visit the Suzuki website at suzukicycles.com ,


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The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

GIVE ME A BRAKE! Alexandra has been enjoying her ride. She made it an early night, heading home before the day changed, leaving her friends that were heading to another dance club. She had plans for this day and it was worth giving up her Saturday night (or Sunday morning) to get up and out before 9 and heading up in the country, away from the urban squall that is the suburbs these days. Lunch along the river and discovering a few unknown to her roads made it even better. But all good things come to an end, well that is what she thought as she realized the sun was setting and she had to get home – Zabu, her Bengal cat, would be looking for his dinner about now. Heading west she was having a very difficult time with the sun, now edging closer and closer to the horizon – directly in front of her. She slowed to a stop at a traffic light. Popping the bike into neutral she was stretch her arms, hands off the bars as she patiently waited for the light to chan…….. BOOM! She never even heard the howl of the brakes. Earth /sky. Earth /sky. Earth/sky… blackness. She awoke sometime later. Her body screamed into her brain. Pain. A lot of pain. She looked up into the EMT’s eyes and asked, “What happen, where am I?” It turns out that while Alexandra was waiting for the light to change a car was coming from behind at the speed limit of 45 mph. The sun, ever so bright and intrusive this time of the day, washed out the bike and her dull, somewhat lacking tail/brake light that is hard to pick up on a nice day. The woman in the Corolla didn’t see the motorcycle till a split second before.

BRIGHTER IS BETTER! According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, there are, on average, over 5,000 motorcycle fatalities each year. Many are one vehicle incidents – riders misjudging the severity of a curve, target fixation, and the like. Too many are the classic left turn. When a clueless driver whips a quick and unexpected left turn right into the path of an oncoming motorcyclist. The sobering fact is that riders are 27 times more likely to die in traffic crashes (per miles driven) than are the occupants of other passenger

vehicles. Just under 10% of these fatalities involved rear-end crashes; and when rear-end motorcycle accidents happen, they can be deadly. In the above story Alexandra survived, but was hospitalized for weeks and, although she would keep on riding, she took steps to make sure this incident would never repeat itself. She got herself in the habit of keeping an eye on the mirror while at stops and traffic lights. Her bike? It remains in first gear, with the clutch pulled in. If something was going to come up quickly behind her – this time, when she heard the screech of brakes behind here, she would be able to escape it. But, one of the easiest upgrades to her “At Stop Program” was the addition of more and far brighter brake lights. Being seen on the road is one of the keys to our survival. Recently Shira and I traveled to the southern part of Virginia – both of us one standard machines; Shira on her beloved Honda 919 and me riding the new Z. Along the way, Shira commented how the Z’s tail and brake light were a bit lacking in luminosity and size – especially compared to my GS. But there was a reason for that. My GS and her Suzuki VStrom both have an additional brake light from Twisted Throttle and Denali. When we returned, the first order of business was to have two Denali B6 Brake Lights shipped to Backroads Central. All of our machines are now so equipped. The B6 Brake Light has six ultra-bright LED lights fitted onto a strong aluminum bracket that easily mounts under your license plate. It works as a running light but when the brakes are applied the LED explodes with brightness. If you have a Can-Bus machine, like a BMW or KTM, the unit is easily plugged into Denali’s CanSmart adapter and can be set up to flash as well. Annoyingly noticeable – but, that’s the point, right? Another superb and different approach is the inView Brake light from Third Eye Design. This light attaches to the back of your helmet and inView and is a wireless helmet brake


BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021 and turn signal light system with advanced features that dramatically increase your visibility and riding safety. It attaches easily to any helmet and any motorcycle to provide brake, hazard, and turn signal LED lighting. Both of these additions will make you far more visible to those following you and can save you from unwanted thrashings on the road. ,

Denali B6 Brake Light $109 from twistedthrottle.com inView Brake Light $149 from thirdeyedesign.com

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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2021

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2021-22 POLAR BEAR GRAND TOUR SCHEDULE Please check the POLAR BEAR website for updated information:

www.polarbeargrandtour.com

It is not necessary to be a member of the Polar Bear Grand Tour to do these rides. There is generally food at the destination and if you just want to go for a nice ride and join other folks feel free to attend. Polar Bear cancellations & updates will be sent via email and also posted on the website. Sign-in is from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. unless otherwise posted. Check the New Member page for general information about the Polar Bear Grand Tour.

NOVEMBER 28 • HILLBILLY HALL, 203 Hopewell-Wertsville Rd, Hopewell, NJ 08525 Ph# 609-466-9856 • hillbillyhall.com

DECEMBER 5 • MONTGOMERYVILLE CYCLE, 2901 Bethlehem Pike Hatfield, PA 19440 Ph 215-712-7433 • www.montgomeryvillecc.com 12 • PJ WHELIHAN’S 799 Dekalb Pike, Blue Bell, PA 19422 Ph. #610-2728919 pjspub.com/about.php?loc=Blue_Bell 19 • O’CONNOR’S AMERICAN BAR & GRILL 1383 Monmouth Rd Eastampton TWP. NJ 08060 Ph.# 609-261-1555. CHRISTMAS PARTY. BRING A TOY FOR THE CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL (do NOT wrap present) • www.oconnorsmtholly.com 26 • THE HAMILTON TAP & GRILL, 557 US HIGHWAY 130, Hamilton Township, NJ 08691 Ph# 609 905-0925 • hamilton-tap-grill.business.site/

JANUARY 2022 2 • RHODES NORTH TAVERN, 40 Orange Turnpike, Sloatsburg, NY 10974 Ph# 845-753-6438 • www.rhodesnorth.com

What’s Happening

30 • THE EXCHANGE, 160 E. Main St., Rockaway, NJ 07866 Ph # 973-6278488 • www.exchangefood.com

FEBRUARY 2022 6 • GRILL, 457 Rte. 539, Cream Ridge, NJ 08514 Ph# 609-758-5552 • www. theplumstedgrill.com 13 • THE FRANKLIN HOUSE TAVERN, 101 North Market Street, Schaefferstown, PA 17088 Ph. # 717-949-2122 • franklinhousetavern.com 20 • LIGHTHOUSE TAVERN, 397 Route 9 Waretown, NJ 08758 Phone: 609693-3150 • lighthousetavern.com February 27, 2022 27 • PUB 199, 199 Howard Blvd, Mount Arlington, NJ 07856 Ph# 973-3987454 • pub199nj.com

MARCH 2022 6 • LONG VALLEY PUB & BREWERY, 1 Fairmount Rd., Long Valley, NJ 07853 Ph #908-876-1122. • restaurantvillageatlongvalley.com/long-valley-pub-andbrewery/ 13 • BAHR’S LANDING, 2 Bay Ave., Highlands, NJ 07732 PH# 732-872-1247 • www.bahrslandingnj.com 20 • STARS and STRIPES (formerly BRIAN’S) HARLEY-DAVIDSON, 600 S. Flowers Mill Rd., Langhorne PA 19047 Ph# 215-752-9400 • www.brianshd. com 27 • THE HICKORY BBQ SMOKEHOUSE, 743 Route 28, Kingston, NY 12401 Ph# 845-338-2424 • www.hickoryrestaurant.com

APRIL 2022

9 • PIC-A-LILLI INN & Chilly Chili Run 866 Route 206 Shamong NJ 08088 Ph. # 609-268-2066 • picalilli.com/albums

3 • SWEETWATER MARINA & RIVERDECK, 2780 7th Ave, Sweetwater, NJ 08037 Ph#: (609) 668-1545 • www.sweetwaterriverdeck.com/

16 • VICTORY BREWING COMPANY, 420 Acorn Ln, Downingtown, PA 19335 Ph. # 610-873-0881 • www.victorybeer.com

10 • CAPE MAY V.F.W. post #386, N.J. 419 Congress St., Cape May, N.J. 08204 Ph# 609-884-7961

23 • WOODY’S ROADSIDE TAVERN, 105 Academy St, Farmingdale, NJ 07727 Ph. # 732-938-6404 • woodysroadside.com




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