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M O N T H LY C O L U M N S FREE WHEELIN’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
‘TWAS THE RIDE BEFORE CHRISTMAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 RETURN TO NEW SCOTLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
WHATCHATHINKIN’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
THE BAY FERRY CAT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
NORTH AMERICAN INT’L MOTORCYCLE SUPERSHOW . . . . . . . . 54
ON THE MARK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
CYCLE WORLD INT’L MOTORCYCLE SHOW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
BACKLASH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
MOTORCYCLE REVIEWS 2009 STAR V STAR 950. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 MOTO GUZZI GRISO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
BIG CITY GETAWAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
2009 HARLEY-DAVIDSON TOURERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
PRODUCT REVIEWS
WE’RE OUTTA HERE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
SADDLEMEN EXPLORER TANK MAP POUCH. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
HOLIDAY GIFT IDEAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
OLYMPIA GT AIR ALL SEASONS JACKET. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 HARLEY-DAVIDSON MENS AND WOMENS JACKETS . . . . . . . . . . 52
INDUSTRY INFOBITES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39
SCALA RIDER Q2 MULTISET . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
FIRST GEAR TPG RAINIER JACKET . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil ~ Publishers Contributors Jeff Bahr, Dan Bisbee, Pete Brissette, Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Dr. Seymour O’Life Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure
BACKROADS • POB 317, Branchville NJ 07826 Phone 973.948.4176 • Fax 973.948.0823 • email editor@backroadsusa.com • web www.backroadsusa.com For Advertising Sales Information: 973-948-4176
BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2008. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.
DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
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n’t argue with that. And the Fast Ferry we took from Ireland to England wasn’t too shabby either. On the other hand the ferry at Millersburg, Pennsylvania can raise eyeBrian Rathjen brows the first time you ride up onto it. For years I have shown a picture of me riding onto this ferry and each time I tell people some other place, other FERRY GOOD TRIP than Pennsylvania where the picture was taken - Costa Rica, Argentina, I was asked at a party recently when Africa - no one ever doubts where I claim. It’s funny if you could turn South would I consider a motorcyclist jumping the picture around you’d see the soccer Mom in her Caravan behind me. from casual rider to a serious tourer and Point is you can find real adventure in the simplest of ferry crossings. traveler. In fact, if you have been on any of our Backroads’ Rallies you might have Well, although that might seem obvious as for the most part once a rider noticed we would rather put riders on the boat than to have them cross on straps some gear onto their bikes or stuffs their saddlebags full of a weeks bridge just a mile down the road. Ferries are cool and we know it. the worth of clothing and pulls out of their driveway they become, for lack of a Some ferry crossings stick out more than others. The ferry from Bluff to better word, explorers, but these folks wanted that one difference that would Island, part of the South Island of New Zealand, was a doozy. Stewart make a rider a serious tourer. Heavy seas on top of a meal of dark beer and famed Bluff oysters did not I thought about it for a few minutes and came up with something that I make me a happy camper. Green, yes. Happy, no. had dwelled on time and again while traveling just about everywhere on this The ferry crossing from Gibraltar, Spain to Ceuta (also Spain) in North planet. Africa at the border with Morocco was probably my most exciting because The ferry crossing. knew just how different things would be I Shira and I have always joked that a trip after crossing into the Arab nation. OME FERRY CROSSINGS STICK OUT MORE THAN OTHERS. wasn’t official unless we could squeeze at The wildest ferry, without a doubt, was T HE FERRY FROM B LUFF TO S TEWART I SLAND , PART OF least one good ocean voyage into it as well. the huge container ship that brought us THE SOUTH ISLAND OF NEW ZEALAND, WAS A DOOZY. Whether it be something as outstanding as across a feral Straits of Magellan. Sixty mile The Cat Ferry to Nova Scotia or a little cable an hour wind gusts, winds so strong that the ship had to come onto the ferry across a river in Kentucky. They all count. ground sideways. No, there was no dock, the big monster simply ground up I am not saying this is the end all task one must do to become a more serito shore dropped its huge gates and we rode on board. As the last big truck ous rider, but when you do roll your bike onto a boat for the first time it is rode aboard the back part of the ship was rising even as the ship began its a cool feeling indeed and, when you do that, you will feel like you are realcrossing. The few hundred gallons of seawater that poured into the ship and ly traveling. around the bikes didn’t seem to bother the Chilean crew one bit. Over the last three decades (ouch!) I have been on countless ferry crossBut, don’t let these extremes turn you off to a pleasant ferry crossing. If ings. Heck, Norway alone added about a dozen more as the entire country you have never used a ferry to help get you and your machine from Point A is linked by a serious system of ferries. In fact I think I spent almost as much to Point B, then please take this as an invitation. Sometimes a ferry crosstime on the water in Norway as I did on pavement! ing can give you a much needed break, a chance to stretch your legs a bit. Some ferries are more serious that others and can cost millions of dollars, But, sometimes, while watching the waves pass by you can let your mind while other can make you sit and think a bit before you ride up a wooden travel back in time; to when intrepid explorers all sailed the sea and for this plank onto the questionable deck. The Cat from Portland, Maine to little bit of time you are just as much the explorer as they. Yarmouth, Nova Scotia was rated the #2 Super Ship on the planet - I would-
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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
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DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
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W H ATC H AT H I N K I N ’ SHIRA KAMIL It happens every year about this time. The pumpkins are barely starting to pucker and the trees have lost most of their leaves. The electrics are a staple when riding, and those rides start later and end much too soon. The last of the Thanksgiving pies have been eaten and the tryptophan has set in. The annual parade of holiday classics make their way to the television screen It’s a Wonderful Life, Miracle on 34th Street, the Wizard of Oz (not sure why that one comes on) and A Christmas Carol. This one always gets me to thinking of all the places visited, meals eaten, beds slept in and roads traveled that have disappeared, like the ghost of Christmas Past. The Red Apple Rest: Going way back, long before I ever had the notion of riding motorcycles, my family would make summer trips to Ithaca, NY. The two stops along the way would be the Red Apple Rest and the Roscoe Diner. Back then, the Red Apple Rest was going strong, as the NY State Thruway was still brand new. Fast forward many years. The Red Apple became quite the oasis for motorcyclists, as the traffic had long ago moved to the Thruway, leaving the less travelled backroads for two wheels. Pete and family opened their doors to all riders, with many clubs making this their starting/ending point for rides. They were even given an award for their involvement in the motorcycle community. Unfortunately, as with the movie ‘Cars’ there was not enough traffic to keep the place open and it now sits, sadly decomposing, waiting for a magnanimous benefactor to save it from its demise and resurrect it to its once kitchy status. As I just read on a blog about the Red Apple: “In Augusta NJ The Chatterbox Drive is a HUGE HIT! On Saturday nights they have Car Cruise night. Over one hundred cars come and tons of customers pack the place. (Thursdays the motorcycles taking over - ed.) There is currently NO ‘50s-Theme Drive-In Restaurant in Rockland, Westchester, Orange, Dutchess, Ulster or Putnam Counties! Having a ‘50s-themed Drive-In Restaurant with car hop service and a cruise night would be a GOLDMINE! Route 17 is easy to get to from the Thruway and NJ is just a few miles away. Build it and they WILL COME!” HAUNTS OF RIDES PAST
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Hawk’s Nest: That great serpentine tarmac above the Delaware river, host to many scenic stops and rousing rides from motorcyclists of all flavors. Just to the north of this twistalicious stretch there used to reside a most excellent place to stop and ‘set a spell’ - the Hawk’s Nest Cafe. For many years riders would shoot up and down the Hawk’s Nest and make their stop for a cup of coffee, a sandwich and the view. Perched atop the Delaware, one was able to watch the rafters below, the eagles above and benchrace for a bit before heading back to the open road. Ron, the owner, was a rider himself and enjoyed the banter that filled the restaurant and outdoor deck. Six years ago (wow, didn’t that fly by) the Hawk’s Nest Café burned to the ground, never to be rebuilt. This prime piece of real estate sits abandoned, waiting to become the next rider’s hangout. Only time will tell if this is to be. Marcus Dairy: For more than 20 years, Marcus Dairy has been host to Super Sunday. Although it certainly went through many reincarnations, it always featured something for everyone. Be it the leather and pin crown or the over the top custom built bikes, the Marcus Dairy gatherings were sure to entertain. This past October 12th saw the Last Show. Although I’m not sure what is to become of the Dairy Bar itself, it’s certain that the circus that was Marcus Dairy will be no more. One can only hope that it will not be replaced by another strip mall or fast food restaurant. The list of haunts past is not limited to restaurants. For many, the local dealership was just as important a gathering place as the local coffee shop. The one that comes to my mind is AMOL Motorcycles, which used to reside in Dumont, NJ. Once the oldest BMW dealer in the United States, AMOL was the typical old-style motorcycle shop; kinda small, lots of stuff all over the place, garage doors always open, you know. As time went on, and traffic became lighter, Richard finally made the decision to close its doors. The motorcycling community misses them and hope that the ‘Mom and Pop’ shops don’t all go the way of AMOL. So, at this time of year, when reflection and reminisence runs rampant, take the time to think back on the places you used to frequent on those beautiful Sunday rides that have long since disappeared. Take out that photo album and thumb through those captured moments of rides past and think about all the places still out there to visit, of rides yet to be.
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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
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DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
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POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD Man, it’s weird what comes across your transom when you deal in the trade of motorized things. I have always enjoyed the unusual, and this includes everything from an especially decrepit rat bike to the latest MV Agusta. But having said that, I also have this really bad reaction to certain types of custom bikes. There has to be something that is unique and functional and interesting about a bike, especially if the company that cobbles it together sees fit to charge a megalofty price for the thing. For example, the Confederate Wraith is a pretty wild machine with a front suspension that looks like the fangs on a funnel web spider, and is therefore quite unique. The price is in the neighborhood of $50,000 I believe, which is nuts but at the same time I can almost, ALMOST see this as justifiable if I turn my head to the side and kind of look at it out of the corner of my eye. But the other day I was introduced to the Ecosse Motor Works’ Robb Report Limited Edition. The Robb Report is, of course, a luxury lifestyle magazine for which I used to cover motorcycles once upon a time. The most exotic two-wheeler I wrote about was a Bimota or two, but they have apparently decided to kick things up some serious notches. Crazy notches. Big Kicks of crazy notches. This thing is beyond the pale of wretched excess, in fact. Robb Report describes this motorcycle thusly: The ECOSSE Titanium Series brings to bear all of the cutting-edge marque’s expertise in the design of innovative, limited bikes. These special motorcycles are a combination of old-world craftsmanship and computercontrolled accuracy that effortlessly blend American muscle with exquisite lines, race-bred components and the first-ever all-titanium chassis. The result is a lightweight, carbon-fiber beauty with a supercharged billet motor producing insane amounts of torque and power. This bike is simply stunning. WRETCHED EXCESS? I EMBRACE THEE!
Öhlins custom, fully adjustable MotoGP-grade suspension and the low, perfectly balanced chassis provide agile handling and predictable, confidence-inspiring riding dynamics. While short, precise shifts from the ultracompact, proprietary six-speed overdrive transmission ensure a smooth ride. Braking is easy and enjoyable thanks to the billet ISR radial braking system complete with 12 individual brake pads up front for superior grip, plus adjustable lever reach and master cylinder piston leverage allowing riders to decide how much effort is required to bring it all to a stop. Along with control, comfort is key, so each of the Titanium Series bikes is equipped with adjustable ergonomics and gel-padded seating. Each motorcycle in the series will have “Titanium Series RR Limited Edition” and the serial number engraved into the handlebar clamp and VIN plate. Well, how about that. They claim a 2,150cc supercharged V-Twin (of course) with over 200 horsepower at the rear wheel, and a weight of approximately 440 lbs. Impressed? I wasn’t, because I saw the price. I mean, surely this thing has to be worth the $275,000 asking price, eh? Who needs to buy, oh I don’t know, a house, when you can rumble to the big, deep crater where your broker’s office used to be on this righteous bit of bling? But wait: There’s more! Obviously, I must have been pulling your leg to imply that the bike alone costs over a quarter million dollars. It comes with, you guessed it, A WATCH: As the ultimate accessory to the ultimate street bike, BRM-the boutique French watchmaker noted for the automotive cues in its designs-has incorporated the lines of the ECOSSE into a unique matching timepiece. The automatic chronograph’s brushed-titanium bezel reflects the brushed titanium on the motorcycle chassis, and both bike and watch share the same color scheme. BRM even constructed a face that reveals the watch’s mechanics-an allusion to the motorcycle’s exposed motor. The BRM, which has a large 48 mm hexagonal face, includes a special two-sided band: one black rubber and the other black leather with orange stitching and the other black leather, to match the seat of the ECOSSE. Each of the 10 watches made will be engraved with the same serial number as its corresponding motorcycle. (Continued on Page 41)
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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
ON THE MARK MARK BYERS The first part of a new relationship is always awkward: the stutters, the false steps, the worry that the choice I’ve made is not “the one.” There’s a period of adjustment wherein I try to put my best foot forward while exploring and learning the quirks and proclivities of the other party. Sometimes it goes well and the relationship proves to be a long and happy one and sometimes, from the first minute I know it will be an abject failure chalked up to the accrual of wisdom based on bad experience. I am, of course, talking about the most important relationship of my motorcycling life: me and my tank bag. In my misspent youth, I never had a tank bag: I was a “milk crate on the luggage rack” fellow. It wasn’t until later that I was introduced to the worldly pleasures of this indispensible container, for in my youth I was more interested in human shapes bulging from tank tops than accessories bulging from tank bags. I dabbled, taping route sheets to gas tanks with duct tape, but that left an unpleasant residue like the bills of a spendthrift ex, so my fuel containers were usually topless. Because my trips were short, it didn’t affect me much and frankly, most of the tank-top accoutrements sold for my early Japanese bikes struck me as odd contrivances, as full of mysterious straps and buckles as an old-fashioned women’s undergarment. Then came the Germans. Only they would spend that much time and effort (and charge that much money) on a tank topper that would be as useful and functional and secure as the one I had for my old roadster. Suddenly, I had a space for my rain suit, gloves, and other paraphernalia that didn’t involve the ubiquitous bungee. Not only that, but it was topped with a clear, reversible pocket into which I could put various objects ranging from directions to toll money. I even started looking for similar accessories for my Japanese stuff and soon found some I liked. Once I had a taste of the tank bag crack, I couldn’t go back. I had a good relationship with the roadster’s tank bag, but it wasn’t perfect. It was spacious and functional and allowed refueling without much fuss. It kept my stuff organized and within easy reach, but it had moments THE RELATIONSHIP
Page 9
of sheer contrariness that would leave me in need of a little time apart. One time in particular sticks in my memory, a rainy day in West Virginia when the rain cover detached itself at highway speed on I-79 and wrapped itself firmly around the front of my helmet, rendering the outside world an indecipherable, translucent blur. I’m sure the gymnastics I did to rapidly remove it and stow it in my crotch area delighted the motorists in my vicinity. When I got my RS, I thought I’d found tank bag nirvana: it had two sections with an optional third that would zip in, making its dimensions absolutely cavernous. The damn thing would hold a full-face helmet, for goodness sake! Don’t ask me why that’s important (or even practical): I’m a man, so size is everything. I’m also an engineer, so organization is vital and the upper and lower compartments afforded me the opportunity to develop a packing system I considered one of the wonders of the modern world. There was nothing I could not retrieve from that magic bag: from a first-aid kit to weather radio, I astounded people with what I could produce at a moment’s notice. It was a relationship made in geek heaven. When I bought the RT, all that changed. I knew right away this would be a strained partnership. The RT’s tank is topped by an ugly set of dual girders, destroying its clean lines and designed to hold what BMW must think is the pinnacle of Teutonic tank stowage. The bag itself is an odd creature, clipping as it does to the girders without the need for garters around the head stock. It has but a single compartment, barely expands, lacks a zip-open, reversible map pocket, and has an odd shape that makes packing difficult. It releases quickly for fueling, which is nice until I forget to check the closing zippers and it vomits its entire contents (including my new digital SLR) all over a service station apron. Perhaps I’ll get used to it, but I find myself casting mournful, longing looks at the bag on the RS...
What better way to share the rich culture and heritage of Greece than on a motorcycle
DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
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BACKLASH Voices from Across the Pond
Hey Brian & Shira, Greetings from Russia! Here in our apt. complex, I was coming home the other night and parked in front of the building was a GS...the rider was sitting on the bike so I asked him if he spoke English? Neyt! I ran up to my apt. and grabbed pics of my bike to bring down and show to him...he was so excited! I have no idea what we were talking about, however we spoke for 15 minutes. Wish I had a copy of Backroads, I would have passed it to him. Motorcycling...the universal language! Thank you, Michael Rudnick - Russia
Hello Backroads Folks, You all are not paying attention to the M/C merger market! How in the devil could you let HD buy MV Augusta. That is the worst case of miscegenation in recorded history. They received the rights as WW2 war reparations to build the DKW 125 2 stroke in 1948 and after boosting it to 165 cc and freezing up thousands of pistons they gave that up. In the meantime, BSA in England was awarded the same war bounty and they made a machine that did very well until the ‘60s when the Japanese ate their breakfast, lunch and dinner. Then in the ‘70s or ‘80s (I do not have a good time line) they bought Aer Machi in Italy. Aer Machi was building a good 250cc 4 stroke machine and HD, in their infinite wisdom, took it into their AMF Division, (American Machine and Foundry) who were building pin setting machines for your bowling pleasure, tried to promote a racing class for the engine size and failed miserably - again. Now in their infinite wisdom they will try to improve MV??? HELP! Sorry to ramble but I owned 2 HD 125s and 165s and I rode a few Aer Machis when I lived in Italy so I am allowed to be very disappointed at this latest development. It seems that anything that they attempt that goes much
LETTERS
TO THE
EDITOR
beyond the engineering and styling of 1940 to 1965 needs help. They should stick with winners - like the twin cam engine? New bearings anyone? Norm Smith - Switzerland
Voices From Norway
Hey Shira & Brian, Nice to hear from you and thank you so much for the link (to the Norway video on YouTube). I love the opening photo of Brian looking out over the valley with the flag off the back - very cool photo. I haven’t read the whole article yet, but will this evening. I really feel lucky that we were able to be a part of the tour that you guys were on - not just for the great documentary of my own vacation - but for your company, and great sense of humor. I’ll always think back to Runde on the first day and how Brian was “disappointed” he wasn’t able to find Puffin on the menu! I still “LOL” about that one - that and his story about teenagers texting each other all the time omg...lol... lmao... and my favourite: wtf! Derek Braaten - Victoria BC Canada
Hi Shira, hello Brian, I just got the copy with the Norway story in it and I really have to say ‘I LOVE IT’. It is a fantastic story and it really describes what you experienced in the land of the Vikings! Furthermore I thank you so much for placing our ad right behind the story. Interested readers can easily find our company then! I am very looking forward to working with you in 2009 and wish both of you a beautiful day, Best, Karin - Edelweiss Bike Tours Karin, It’s easy to do these stories when the ride, people and adventure were so real. Thank you, Werner and Edelweiss for putting all these grand tours together - they work so well you almost make it look easy!
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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
Shira, Thanks a million for the e-mail and the story link for our tour of Norway! With your permission, I’d like to use Brian’s article in our KCBMW Club newsletter. It is much better than I could do. Tell Brian -Whatta Guy! For me - he reads, he rides, and he writes like Bill Buckley. Hope you have a great Fall. Please stop in Kansas City next time you go through. I’d enjoy seeing you both again. Terry Nygaard Mission Hills, Kansas Wow, thanks Terry - what a compliment, but unfortunately the omnipotent Mr. Buckley died in February. What are you saying here?
Iron Butt Issues
Rathjen, You’re right on the Iron Butt thing. I do understand and agree with the guy about the 1,000-mile day: you can adequately prepare and start wellrested to do a 1,000-mile day with stops every couple hours and some real meals without going ridiculous speeds on today’s highways. I don’t think you’ll get much culture along the way, but you can do it if you need to cover some ground to get somewhere with culture. Stringing 11 of those days together, however, with an auxiliary fuel tank and a device attached to your willy so you don’t have to stop, taking naps aboard your bike at rest stops, and being so fatigued you need a “screaming meanie” alarm to rouse you is way around the bend from adventure. It doesn’t just tempt fate, it taunts it. I’ll wager most of those riders are having microsleeps as they ride and are in a stage of sleep deprivation that places their skills well below par. Droning along a superslab in a state of severe fatigue doesn’t strike me as that “adventurous.” Stepping on a Cobra’s head while taking a whizz during a motorcycle trip to the Far East is adventurous. Do I think the Iron Butt rally guys should cease and desist? Well, if they choose to do so voluntarily I applaud their discretion, but I don’t think they need to be outlawed (at least not until they prove to be a public menace). It’s on their heads if they kill someone in their endeavors. If they kill themselves, don’t expect me to grieve. Fearless Columnist Mark Byers
Brian, I read your Point-Counterpoint exchange with Iron Butt supporter Ed Schwartzbach (Backroads November 2008) with rapt interest. As a semi-crazed hiker I had always wondered what my personal hiking limits were. I found out on the Appalachian Trail one day when I hiked more than thirty miles. Since the “assault” involved the up-climbing and down-climbing of numerous knobs and mountains, the feat nearly killed me. Still, you should have seen me puffing my chest out in macho fashion- much like Schwartzbach does when he implies that long-distance riding represents the true adventure area in motorcycling. How silly! In truth, I felt like I was the Mac daddy after topping the 30-miles. Then, I learned of Andrew Thompson. It seems Mr. Thompson holds the record for a throughhike (all 2200 miles of the trail done at one time) at a bit over 47 days. Some quick math shows that Thompson had to hike almost 45 miles, EVERY SINGLE DAY FOR A MONTH-AND-A-HALF, in order to set this record. Holy crap! All of a sudden my chest appeared rather concave. I shuddered to think how far Thompson could go in one day if that indeed was his goal. But things only got worse. Next, I found out that ultra-marathoners have passed the 100-mile mark in a single day while running the anything-BUT-flat trail. Yikes! That’s about four marathons! Was there no end to my emasculation? Moral? Be very careful what “feats” you label as
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adventure. There is always someone out there who can and will trump you on a number of fronts. Personally, I wonder how the Iron Butt gang would fare on even a moderate 10-mile hike over mountainous terrain. Something tells me most of these self-appointed “toughest riders” would fizzle out far before the 5-mile mark is reached - a distance my 10-year-old stepdaughter can accomplish in less than two hours. Hey, I’ve seen the amorphous (read that anything but well-trained) shapes on most of these fellows/ladies. Remember, a fat ass is an absolute plus in their so-called “adventures.” Of course, in true “adventure” style, these softies would be doing the hike using their own power only. How scary a proposition that would be for them! Suddenly, they’d find themselves moving about in a REAL WORLD OF PHYSICAL COMPETITION, devoid of cushy seats, highway pegs, GPS locaters, CB radios, IPOD’s, coffee stops, and a gas-powered motor to do all of their work for them. Hmm. The Iron Butt guys suddenly seem a whole bunch “less” adventurous, don’t they? I can hear a certain whooshing noise coming from their general vicinity. Is it hot air, exhaling chests, or both? You decide. Keep “Adventure” in your banner, Backroads. As long as my ten-yearold daughter can embarrass these pseudo “adventurers” it absolutely belongs there! Jeff Bahr AKA The Oracle Most Miles Ridden in One Day - Who in hell really cares?
(Continued on next page)
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(Continued from Page 11)
Backroads, As to those Iron Butters, I say; knock yourselves out dudes and dudettes. It’s not my cup of tea, I prefer quality to quantity, but if it’s what floats your boat, I wish you well. And yes, I get it, personal goal achievement and all that. Have fun. John Fletcher BACKLASH
Backroads, I enjoyed Bill Heald’s Postcards from the Hedge in the November issue where he notes that Consumer Reports is getting interested in scooters and motorcycles as efficient transportation alternatives to cars. What may surprise many is that their interest is not really new. Back in 1981 I was looking for an alternative to my car, considering the purchase of a scooter because of gas shortages and high gas prices ($1.50 a gallon). To my surprise, the June 1981 issue of Consumers Reports actually tested and rated “lightweight motorcycles.” Apparently they reviewed some scooters the month before, and a Vespa and Lambretta in this article. Enough subscribers were considering alternative transportation (they list motorized bicycles, mopeds, scooters and motorcycles) to warrant the review. They suggested buyers should consider small motorcycles, which at the time were better suited to keeping up with traffic and travelling highways, being capable of higher speeds, had better brakes, and better handling. They considered the Vespa and Lambretta, both with a kick starter and two cycle engine, far harder to control than a motorcycle, and all but unsafe.
DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
Because their top rated motorcycle by far was the Suzuki GS250TT, I purchased a left-over one in the spring of 1982 for $1,300. My first motorcycle. One year later and after a whopping 1,725 miles I traded up to a 400 Yamaha Seca! That was 7 motorcycles ago and over 150,000 miles ago! It will be interesting to see their current view of the two wheeler market. Bill Luring - Saxtons River, VT
Hey Brian & Shira , Thanks again for inviting Michael and I on one of your rides, it was actually nice to have experienced some wonderful scenery on the back and of course some true backroads! I guess we did not know what to expect on the ride and of course became “Tommy Turtle” in the way the pack rode together. It was all good and Michael rode his ride! We also want to say a special THANKS to Shira for being our guide on the major turns. It was a nice adventure to pop out on some roads we have been on and we loved the Airport cafe - sweet potato fries are my new favorite. Of course the museum was fantastic and the care taker a doll; what a nice lady to chat with. It seemed to all work in the end when we hit the museum...so hopefully it was good for all. If we are invited again we hope to have a GPS with us to better assist if we are still “Tommy Turtle!” This way Shira can go fast and not worry about us behind! Michael & Michelle Mania
Got something to say? We’d love to hear it. Letters may be edited, never censored, to fit. Mail: Email: editor@backroadsusa.com Fax: (973) 948-0823
BACKROADS • PO Box 317 • Branchville NJ 07826
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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
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G R E AT A L L A M E R I C A N D I N E R R U N
MARQUIS OF DUFFERIN SEASIDE INN ROUTE 7 - MARINE DRIVE • JUST EAST OF HALIFAX PORT DUFFERIN, NOVA SCOTIA 877-654-2696 • WWW.MARQUISOFDUFFERINMOTEL.COM
We could not come all the way to Maritimes of Nova Scotia without checking out some very serious food along the way. And, although we respect our Canadian readers, you kids have to stop pushing Tim Horton’s on us. Yikes! We get enough of this sort of crap south of the border. No, what we were looking for was something homey, something along a phenomenal road, something that embodies the essence of the Great All American Diner Run; and we found it just a few hours from Halifax along the beautiful Marine Drive - Route 7 in Port Dufferin. With a population of less than 150, this is as quaint and perfect as you will find in all of Nova Scotia. The Marquis of Dufferin Seaside Inn is more than just an excellent place to eat, it also has a number of well appointed rooms, with marvelous views of the Eastern Shore of Nova Scotia; a view which is rarely bad. But, as nice as the actual Inn is, we had found this little Canadian jewel right around lunch time so that is where our hearts were - through our bellies. Although it was mid-day we did take a look at their breakfast menu and one thing did pop out at us: East Coast Breakfast... poached eggs on a toasted English Muffin topped with Nova Scotia smoked salmon, hollandaise sauce and served with pan fried potatoes. Hmmm. But, as lunch was now being served we took in that menu. Small, but sweet they featured Smoked Salmon Bagel, Fish & Chips, which featured the ever present Haddock, BLT and Chicken. But, what they really excelled at was their Seafood Chowder.
We had a lot of ‘chowda’ while up along the roads of New England and Nova Scotia, but none as meaty, spicy, creamy, so “Good-God that’s delicious” as the Chowder at Marquis of Dufferin. That was followed by a Marquis Caesar Salad topped with mushrooms and pecans; you can add chicken, salmon or lobster to this brilliant creation as well. Add their wonderful Lobster Roll, which brought local lobster meat together with a bed of lettuce on a toasted and buttery roll, and we were in N.S. heaven. Throw in a delicious tea of or coffee afterward and you just might be ready for a nap rather than continue to the Canso Causeway. If you arrive at the Marquis of Dufferin Seaside Inn later in the day they serve a hearty dinner fare as well. With plenty of seafood from which to choose; Haddock, Atlantic Salmon and Lobster. Steaks can be found as
well as their famed Scallops Dufferin; Scallops poached in white wine and baked in a cream sauce, topped with parmesan cheese. You’ll also find a good number of pasta dishes to round things out. It all sounds great. If you do end up here for dinner, park the bikes, grab a room and enjoy all that the Marquis of Dufferin Seaside Inn has to offer, along with their great desserts and ample wine list you need not go any further this day.
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DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
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B I G C I T Y G E TA W AY THE FORTRESS OF LOUISBOURG AND JOGGINS FOSSIL CLIFFS RIDING BACK INTO TIME THE FORTRESS OF LOUISBOURG WWW.LOUISBURG.CA • 902-733-2280
Just east of Sydney, in Cape Breton, you’ll find a way to literally ride back into time. We did and it was worth the side trip. The Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Park is the crown jewel of the Canadian Park Service and the largest historical reconstruction in Canada. Fortress Louisbourg was built to protect France’s interests in the new world and to serve as the center of its massive seasonal fishing industry. Its location near the eastern tip of Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia enabled it to serve not only as the capital of the new colony of Ile Royale but also to act as the first line of defense for France in its 18th century struggle against Great Britain for colonial supremacy in North America. Fortress Louisbourg was first captured in 1745 after a six week siege by New England troops with the support of the British navy. After three years under British governors, the Fortress of Louisbourg was returned to France by treaty in 1749 inspite of the protests of the American colonies. After almost a decade of increasing prosperity, the much stronger Fortress fell again after another six-week siege in
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1758, this time to the largest assembled assault force in colonial Canadian history. The fortifications were blown up in 1760-61 and the British military presence withdrawn in 1768. The imported cut stone which was widely used in the original construction of the Fortress was re-used around the province, and is still found in buildings standing today at both Halifax and Sydney, Nova Scotia and along the eastern seaboard. The new town of Louisburg would be a community established first by English and Irish soldiers who served at the second siege of Louisbourg and at Quebec, to be joined soon afterwards by Loyalists and more Irish via Placentia, Newfoundland. An initiative of the government of Prime Minister John Diefenbaker in 1961, the rebuilding over the next two decades of Fortress Louisbourg transformed the ruins from heaps of grass and stones to the impressive historical and interpretive site it is today. The old capital of Isle Royale was back! The Fortress offers a unique window into our past and our 18th century colonial history. Dozens of costumed animators become the town’s residents of the summer of 1744. Surrounded by ramparts, the King’s Bastion is a fort within a fortress. The King’s Bastion Barracks is the largest building on site and in its day was one of the largest buildings in North America. Visit Chapelle St. Louis, Louisbourg’s garrison chapel. See artifacts found during 20 years of archaeological excavation. Talk to a soldier. You’ll find them happy to tell you about guard duty, living condi-
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
tions, armaments, security, food and a soldier’s life in general. When we were there we were questioned repeatedly about our cohort and traveling companion Mr. Happy, but even the curious French eventually gave in to Mr. Happy’s charms. After walking around enjoying the different buildings, farms and recreations we had an actual 18th century meal of Soup, Turkey Pot Pie and tea. It was delicious. The Fortress of Louisbourg is a charming way to spend an afternoon while touring in Nova Scotia.
JOGGINS FOSSIL CLIFFS 100 MAIN STREET • JOGGINS NS B0L 1A0
Just east of Amherst, right across the border from New Brunswick, you can ride even further back in time...much further back. With the famed Fundy tides at full ebb we walked down to the bare sea floor and saw the most magnificent sights. Preserved in situ at Joggins, “Coal Age” trees stand where they grew, the footprints of creatures are frozen where they once walked, the dens of amphibians are preserved with remnants of their last meal, and the earliest reptiles remain entombed within once hollow trees. Nowhere is this record of plant, invertebrate and vertebrate life within now fossilized forests rendered more evocatively.
The fossil record includes species first defined at Joggins, some of which are found nowhere else on earth. It was here that Sir Charles Lyell, with Sir William Dawson, founder of modern geology, discovered tetrapods - amphibians and reptiles - entombed in the upright fossil trees. Later work by Dawson would reveal the first true reptile, Hylonomus lyelli, ancestor of all dinosaurs that would rule the earth 100 million years later. This tiny reptile serves as the reference point where animals finally broke free of the water to live on land. This evolutionary milestone recorded at Joggins remains pivotal to understanding the origins of all vertebrate life on land, including our own species.
Above the cliffs is the Joggins Fossil Center. The Center houses interpretive exhibits for visitors and acts as a departure point for guided tours of the Fossil Cliffs.
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The building reflects the natural beauty of the Joggins Cliffs. The inclined walls mimic the formations of the cliffs, with sandstone cladding quarried from nearby Wallace, Nova Scotia. The overall shape of the building and the use of wooden siding are reminiscent of the area’s coal mines. Here we spent equal time walking around the well-designed center which held so much of the area’s and the world’s history. In both Louisbourg and Joggins you will find that Nova Scotia not only has a wonderful history, but they help you live it as well. Log onto www.louisbourg.ca and jogginsfossilcliffs.net to learn more.
DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
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O’Life’s r u o m y e S . r D
MYSTERIOUS AMERICA
THE SHAG HARBOR INCIDENT IS THIS CANADA’S ROSWELL?
Although this story had its start late one evening above a harbor in Nova Scotia, it began for me with a late evening phone call from none other than the good doctor of mystery - Seymour O’Life. Hearing that Shira and I had planned a late summer soirée to Nova Scotia he was adamant that I do a little research. “What’s this about, Seymour...the Daily Show is on.” “Rathjen, I heard you and the lovely one are riding to New Scotland - I have only two words to say to you - Shag Harbor.” He then hung up and left me to wander down to the office to Google Shag Harbor. Being it was Seymour I assumed that Shag Harbor was some sort of Hedo III Resort, who would have thunk it - gutsy Canadians! But, that was not the case at all. What was the case was the single most important, and more importantly - documented - UFO case in Canadian history. It began on the night of October, 4 1967, just after 11:00pm, above the tiny fishing village of Shag Harbor, Nova Scotia. An airship of some type, some 60 feet in diameter, was seen flying over the water. The craft, which we’ll call a UFO simply because no one now knows what it truly was, displayed four bright lights that flashed in sequence, tilted to a 45-degree angle and
descended rapidly towards the water’s surface. It slammed into the water of Shag Harbor with a deafening roar. Thinking a jet liner had ditched into the harbor locals began to call the Royal Canadian Mounties at nearby Barrington Passage. At this point nobody was talking UFO. Believing it was a commercial airliner they were only concerned with rescuing any survivors. Now, the story gets really strange.
Arriving at the impact site they found that the craft had slowly sank and had completely disappeared, but there was a trail of dense yellow foam that floated with the tide. Neither the Rescue Co-ordination Centre in Halifax nor the nearby NORAD radar facility at Baccaro, Nova Scotia, had any knowledge of missing aircraft, either civilian or military. The Mounties at the site reported that the object had “changed” during its descent to the water’s surface, that it
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
changed shape, and that it appeared to be “no known object.” When questioned later locals on the scene reported the same details as those of the RCMP. Also, a coast guard lifeboat from nearby Clark’s Harbour and several local fishing boats were summoned to investigate, but the UFO had submerged before they reached the site. The sulfuroussmelling yellow foam continued to well to the surface from the point where the UFO went down, and a 120 by 300 foot slick developed. Search efforts continued until 3:00 AM and then resumed at first light the next day. Everybody involved was convinced that “something” — that is, something real and unidentified — had gone into the water, but what? This is where the story goes from UFO to USO Unidentified Submerged Object. Suddenly the Canadian Navy cancelled the search. Local residents could not understand why, when so many had seen something slam into the waters. Years later recently declassified government papers revealed a startling story, involving the Canadian, US and Soviet military. According to the Canadian and United States military the first craft eventually came to rest a few miles off shore of Shelburne, some 30 miles north. Here it was met by another such craft and after a few hours, word of this incident flying around military circles world wide. A dozen or so Navy ships floated above for 7 full days keeping an eye on the two submerged crafts, even as divers reported strange beings from the second craft lending assistance to the stricken craft. On the 7th day there was suddenly another variable thrown into the mix with a Soviet submarine coming in to investigate. As the flotilla of Navy ships moved to intercept the sub (this was the height of the Cold War) the two USOs began to move, one towing the other at a rate of speed far faster than the sub or ships above could match and eventually disappeared towards the Gulf of Maine. A couple of days later reports came in of two crafts bursting forth from the Atlantic and disappearing into the sky in a typical-UFO zig-zag pattern. What crashed into Shag Harbor? What came to its rescue? Why did they both move off when the Soviet
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submarine approached? How did hundreds of people, the Canadian, United States and Soviet Navies let these two crafts slip away? How did the most government-documented UFO incident in recent memory slip through the cracks of history? For these questions even Doctor O’Life has no answers - it is simply a part of Mysterious America ...or Canada as this case shows.
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W E ’ R E O U T TA H E R E MEAT COVE CAMPING & CABINS AND KELTIC LODGE CAPE BRETON ISLAND NOVA SCOTIA
For this special issue of Backroads we will feature two very different places to stay while riding around Cape Breton. Meat Cove is stirring and raw, the Keltic Lodge is genteel and upscale. Not making a judgment call here, they both have something to offer. We recommend you mix it up and enjoy both.
MEAT COVE CAMPING & CABINS END OF THE ROAD....MEAT COVE, CAPE BRETON ISLAND
At the very tip of Cape Breton Island, in Nova Scotia, right where the Saint Lawrence Seaway meets the North Atlantic Ocean, you will find a stunning little place called Meat Cove. Getting there is not the easiest thing to do as the road to Meat Cove is a tight two-laner made from
a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads hard packed gravel and clay and has slightly roller-coaster like tendencies. The strange name came from the fact that hundreds of years ago sailors would land at the cove, which was plentiful with game in the surrounding hills to
stock up on moose and deer meat. Okay, that makes sense. We first visited Meat Cove back in 1994, riding two over-packed 600’s down what we then called the road from hell (It’s just slightly better now) and camping at the very edge of the cliff. Seemed like a good idea at the time, but the morning gale proved otherwise. Back then there were just primitive camping sites; but the most beautiful scenery that you could imagine. The problem back when we first visited is that there was nothing in the way of restaurants, food or shelter at Meat Cove. These days the scenery is still as magnificent as it has been for thousands of years, but years ago there was nothing for food or shelter from the storm if bad weather rolled in, today there are a
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
number of small KOA-style cabins and the cozy Oceanside Chowder Hut. Owned and run by the McLellan family, who have lived and fished Meat Cove for over six generations, Meat Cove now has a wonderful combination of raw natural beauty, a stunning atmosphere and just enough civility and accommodations to make it a must do stop over while riding Cape Breton. If you choose to rent a cabin, you must bring your sleeping bag as linens are not provided, but we highly recommend that you do the cabin option, for as beautiful at Cape Breton is, she is a fickle island whose weather whims change quickly. Tenting is always an option as well. The food, especially the chowder, is very good and while you are there you can hike to the point above the cove or simply relax along the beach or atop the cliff and look for eagles, moose, bear, seal and pilot whales. While we were there a harbor seal tried his best to get our attention. It worked! Meat Cove is unlike any place we have yet featured in Backroads and one of the many places that makes Nova Scotia so special.
KELTIC LODGE MIDDLE HEAD PENINSULA INGONISH BEACH, NS B0C 1L0 902-285-2880 WWW.KELTICLODGE.CA
Just east of Ingonish, Cape Breton is a small peninsula that juts out into the sea. Here among the rocks and crags you will find the Keltic Lodge. Unlike the rugged overnight at Meat Cove, the Keltic Lodge has all the comfort you would expect in a fine hotel, all with that authentic Scottish flair. Whether you stay at the Main Lodge, the comfortable Inn at Keltic or one of the cozy guest cottages, you will totally enjoy what the Keltic Lodge has to offer.
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Their Purple Thistle Dining Room was superb and easily one of the best meals on our trip. For a more casual meal there is the Atlantic Restaurant that is open for both lunch and dinner. After we arrived, unpacked the bikes and explored the ample grounds, we found ourselves drawn to The Highland Sitting Room. With a wide selection of wine and, thank the Road Gods, single malt scotches, we enjoyed our wait for dinner in style. While you are enjoying your stay at the Keltic Lodge there will be much to do with an outdoor heated swimming pool, putting/pitching greens, saltwater and freshwater beaches and plenty of opportunity to see whales up close and personal on Zodiac Craft. We mean real close! So there you have two excellent and must see places while roamin’ in gloamin’ around Cape Breton. Ingonish is on the eastern side of the island and you’ll find Meat Cove all the way at the top. Not much of a Rip & Ride to give you on this kiddies, just get up there, look at the maps and enjoy.
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‘Twas the Ride Before Christmas
DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
‘Twas the night before Christmas and there on the floor, My bike was in pieces, won’t run any more. The sprockets were hung on the wall on a nail The chain sat soaking over there in a pail.
By Dan Bisbee (with profuse apologies to Clement C. Moore)
While over in the corner sitting on a bench Was a busted off bolt and a twisted up wrench. The bolt sheared off clean when I twisted it loose And I banged up my knuckle, what a sorry excuse.
I went in the house to get a cold brew ‘Cause I really didn’t know what else to do. So I sat on the couch and shed a brief tear No holiday ride for me this year.
When there arose so much noise from out in the street That I dropped the doughnut I was trying to eat. Away to the window I fled with my beer Peaked through the curtains and trembled with fear
There on the street in a big blue haze Was a jolly old elf who looked kind of dazed. He was riding a bike, a two stroke I think. He nodded my way and gave me a wink.
He was dressed head to toe in a red suit of leather. With a helmet and gloves he was all put together. He spoke not a word as he ran to my shop. He adjusted my valves, he took out the slop.
Then he ran to the bench to that busted off bolt. He hit it real hard really gave it a jolt. Then he backed out the bolt and cleaned up the threads. While I bandaged my knuckle that thing really bled.
He put on the chain and a brand new sprocket. And he tightened it up with a torque wrench and socket. Then he cleaned up my shop and I gave him a cheer, While out on his bike, he put it in gear.
I ran out to the street, shouting my praise As he vanished from sight is a blue smoky haze. When rounded the corner he wheelied and cried “Happy Christmas to all and to all a good ride.”
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A few months back, while working on the bikes in the barn, I came across an old cassette tape. I keep all those dinosaurs there and every so often I remember to change one or another in the ‘boom box’ that keeps me rockin’ while wrenchin’. This time it was a tape of the International Tattoo, from Halifax, Nova Scotia. Shira came in, listened for a second and asked if that was indeed the Tattoo, which we had the pleasure to see. “Huh, when was that?” she asked. I glanced at the clear plastic case. 1994. 1994! Holy Crap, that was 14 years ago. How did that happen? A few days later I pulled out the Canon - the very first incarnations of Backroads, bound in a stellar green plastic binder. A few moments later I found the story I had written for the then newsletter of the Sport Touring Motorcycle Club. The last paragraph talked about making plans to return to the Canadian Maritimes the next year, but that never happened. Backroads, as you know it, was born and things got in the way. Things like deadlines, ad sales and the occasional soiree to Europe, New Zealand, Africa and the tips of both South and North Americas. Yep, Nova Scotia fell off our map, to our shame, and it would be almost a decade and a half before we pulled out the maps and pointed the bikes back to New Scotland. So this September we had a choice to watch Valentino take the first victory at the very first MotoGP in Indy, or return to the very first big trip Shira and I rode as a couple. We chose north. DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
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New Jersey to Portland, Maine
We left midweek riding an easy route from New Jersey and across the Hudson where we would pick up Route 202, which we would take, for the most part, all the way northeast to Portland, Maine, where we would board the Cat Ferry for a very fast romp across to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia. Along the way we ran past old friends. The Red Apple Rest, lying dead and empty - taking a detour around some of the bigger towns on tiny backroads we rediscovered the famed Balancing Rock, which we featured in one of our very first Mysterious Americas. We took lunch outside Danbury and then rode northeast into Massachusetts and eventually into New Hampshire. Somewhere around 300 miles and 6 o’clock we found the oh-so-comfortable Hancock Inn, a historic B&B, in Hancock, New Hampshire. Coming with a happy bed, a warm bar and delicious menu we had found ourselves a home for the evening. On the previous day’s ride we had passed a sign for the Cathedral of the Pines, a place that our man of mystery, Jeff Bahr, had told us about while back in Vermont. Built for all denominations to worship it was spectacular, but very solemn this day. Getting off the machines I could hear the PA in the backround, repeating again and again. It then dawned on us what day this was and what we were hearing. We quietly, respectively made our way to the open-air cathedral, under the towering pines with the morning sun filtering through to the forest floor and took seats and listened to the names being read in honor of the September 11 tragedy. What a beautiful place to be reminded of something so heartbreaking.
o t o t n n r r u R Reettu laanndd t l t o o c c S S w w e e N N words and images: Brian Rathjen
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
After a while Shira touched my shoulder and we silently made our way back to the bikes, mounted and continued on with our trip. By mid-afternoon we rolled into Portland, Maine and spent the late afternoon and evening exploring the wharf side of the city with its plethora of quirky shops, raw bars and brewpubs. What an excellent city Portland is, deserving far more than one afternoon’s exploration.
Nice Kitty - Portland to Shelburne, NS
We were up at dawn the next day and at the Fast Cat ferry by quarter to seven. While on the queue a number of other riders pulled up. Bruce on a KLR, Frank on the same GS as myself and a few other machines, mostly from New England, all on their way for an end of the summer romp in Nova Scotia. The Cat has a section just for motorcycles and even provides tiedowns to keep all in their place. The five or so hour journey across the Gulf of Maine was spent talking bikes, which made the time go by fast. About half way through the crossing we were treated to a personal look at this fast kitty with a tour of the ship including the bridge and an up close look at the jets that power the craft. Unreal and it is well worth reading the details of the Cat and crossing in the sidebar at the end of this story. Landing in Yarmouth we sprung the bikes from the Cat’s hold and cleared Canadian
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customs and then headed toward the Lighthouse Route that would swing east then northeast along a tiny two-lane roadway. For a time the route rode along miles of straight pavement, surrounded by small scrub pine, running to its own slightly monotonous drum beat only to suddenly to be replaced by miles of curvy small hills flanked by tidal marshes and rocky salt ponds, the cadence of the beat upping in rhythm. Small rivers and larger creeks ran down through quaint villages, the rocky bottoms of the streams causing the hard running water to seem almost black at this time of the day. As per Doctor O’Life’s request we spent some time in Shag Harbor, the scene of the famed Canadian Roswell (See Mysterious America) and dropped by the local Post Office to have our passports stamped with a neat Shag Harbor UFO design. We stopped by the Shag Harbor UFO museum where we found that Shira was the 1,000 visitor this season and was handed an “Official” Shag Harbor UFO coffee mug. We were here in Nova Scotia for just a few hours and already we were making friends. Speaking of friends, getting back on board the bikes outside the museum a fellow traveler, Bruce - who we hung out with on the Cat, rode by on his KLR and stopped when he spotted our bikes. He rode along with us for the rest of the day. Our travels continued to Shelburne, the town where so many British loyalists fled after our revolutionary war. A quaint harbor town, with a rich history, we found our room at the Cooper’s Inn, and Bruce looked for his own accommodations. We walked to dinner at an appealing German place and then walked around Shelburne’s wharf area. The sun had just settled and the night was young yet we made it an early night this time around for our Nova (Continued on next page) Scotia trip had just begun.
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Shelburne to Halifax
Awaking just past dawn I could hear another steady drum beat, this time of rain on the roof. A large low system had rolled in overnight and the next few days looked to be just a tad moist. The Cooper’s Inn had a superb breakfast and after packing up wet machines we headed east along the Lighthouse Route. Once again the route had two personalities, for times it would run tediously straight and then would show its better half and twist along the small tidal bays and through tiny Nova Scotian villages. We stopped for fuel and, once again, Bruce happened by and ended up joining us for the rest of the day. Following along the coast as best we could the road began to drop the tedious parts and brought in some more fun riding. At one point Shira waited up on the pavement as the two dual-sport machines went in search of the Kejimkujik Park along the shore. It allowed for a few miles of semi-slick clay in the rain, but let us get the bikes properly dirty for the rest of the trip. Just before Lunenburg at LaHave, we crossed the small bay on a tiny cable ferry - from there on the road was superb - even the constant rain slowed to a drizzle and then ended. In Lunenburg they were holding their annual Waterfront Seafood Festival. A hold over from when fisherman were absolute kings in these parts, it celebrates the way thing used to be with Dory races, music, contests and some serious seafood. The local ‘chowda!’ was most decent and really hit the spot.
Back on the road and terrain had changed a bit again, with the bays more rocky and small islands, ringed with yellow sea grass dotting the waters right off shore. One of them was Oak Island, where the infamous money pit is supposedly to be found, but we were not seeking treasure that day, although a little golden sunshine would have made three slightly damp riders very happy indeed. By late afternoon we rode into Peggy’s Cove, arguably the most photographed spot in all of Nova Scotia. Standing as regal as ever the small lighthouse, perch on the large round boulders is truly a sight and almost worth the trip itself. Since the last time we were there, there is also something else here, although we wish it weren’t. A stately memorial for Swiss Air Flight 111 that crashed off Peggy’s Cove a decade ago can be found overlooking the waters. We simply bowed our heads as we rode by. It was now early evening and we rode into Halifax and grabbed a room harbor side at a local Ramada, thanks to the local Visitors Center. Not what we normally do on tour, but it was wet and the allure of Halifax’s rockin’ harbor section on a Saturday night was the best deal we could think of.
DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
The 7th floor suite had a great view of the harbor, just east of the narrows where, in 1917, the largest man-made explosion until the atomic bomb occurred when the Mont Blanc and the Imo collided in the harbor, the resulting explosion leveling the city.
Halifax to Cape Breton
The rains from the previous day’s ride had left, but there was still plenty of moisture in the air that morning. Bruce had his own plans, so after packing up the steeds we waved our goodbyes along the streets of Halifax. Shira and I circled the famed British Fort called the Citadel, sitting like a silent watchman atop the giant natural hill at water’s edge, and then crossed Halifax Bay and picked up the coast road east - called the Marine Drive which we rode for the entire day. Far faster and with many more elevation changes, twists, turns and spectacular views this road was a delight. In Port Dufferin we spotted a small seaside inn and restaurant called the Marquis of Dufferin (See GAADR). The lobster roll was great, but the chowder was beyond anything we had ever had - chunks of haddock, oysters, salmon and mussels all in a wonderfully spicy cream soup. While at the Dufferin I found a local photographer’s work that truly caught my eye. It is rare that I am so moved by new work, as there are so many incredible camera folk out there these days, but this woman, Connie Publicover, with her images of water drops was stunning and I ended up carefully packing a small print of hers away in my saddlebag. Please take the time to see her work at: www.betterphoto.com/gallery/free/gallery.asp?mem=212772. Finding artists like this is one of the reasons to ride to Nova Scotia. Okay, that and the ‘getting better all the time’ roads! As we passed through the recreated tourist town of Sherbrooke the sun came out to play and with it the fun-factor rose as did the temperatures. All goods things were coming together. With the sun out and shining we stopped numerous times for a quick photo or simply to walk along the stoney beaches. Virginia may think it’s for lovers, but Nova Scotia might argue that point. A little under three hundred twisty oceanside miles later we crossed the Canso Causeway, the deepest causeway on the planet and rode onto Cape Breton - Nova Scotia’s dream come true to riders like ourselves. The day was quickly ending so we stopped at the Visitor’s Center at the other side of the causeway and inquired about a room for the evening. These places come in very handy and you will find them all about Nova Scotia; just look for the ‘?’ signs. As in Halifax the previous night, the women there happily found us a hotel with a great restaurant and bar, just a few miles down the road. This is a marvelous service and one, if you ride through here without reservations, can be a lifesaver. The Hearthstone Motel worked well and we finished the evening sipping Jost Nova Scotian cabernet on a small wooden bench watching the sunset over the Canso Straight.
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
Exploring Cape Breton
Clouds came rolling back that night, remnants of a monster named Ike. The Canadian weather service said Quebec and Labrador would get pummeled with rain, but we hoped it would stay to the north. The rains did, but the winds did not. All day long we were to be whipped with gusty breezes, some up to 70 kph, according to the local sources in Cape Breton. After riding along the coast for the last few days we decided to ride the inland route up along Bras D’or Lake, the huge inland sea of Nova Scotia. Once out of the Canso Strait region the road was pleasant and the views of the wide lake charming.
Riding back in time...
Near Sydney we turned right and rode the twenty miles to the Fortress at Louisburg. The largest restored historic site of its kind in North America it was a treat to spend a few hours walking in the 1740’s. The buildings and the people there have literally slipped through time. Louisburg was once the largest French port in the New World and there was that constant struggle with the British to deal with (see Big City Getaway).
Learning about life then and especially enjoying a period meal of turkey pie, pea soup and tea was a real and unexpected treat. When in Nova Scotia take the time to visit Louisburg, you will not be disappointed.
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We doubled back toward Sydney and then swung down and around to the Cabot Trail. In my mind this was the entire reason for this journey. The Cabot Trail is one of the top ten motorcycle roads in North America. It winds for 300 kilometers and is a constant challenge with wide sweepers, wonderful up and down hill turns, slightly rough at time pavements and some of the most awe inspiring vistas you will find on the planet! We love this road. But, before we got into the Cabot Trail proper, we stopped at the Gaelic College and spent some time at their Hall of the Clans. Although my name has German and Danish roots, I am not. Adopted by my father at age seven, I took his name. I am true blue Celt and was raised in my grandparent’s Scottish home. This place was phenomenal to me and if you have Scottish blood in your veins then you must take care not to miss this treat. It didn’t take me long to find my clan tartan - McAuley. If I could carry the kilt home I would, but that would have busted even the GS’ carrying capacity. Have you ever held a real kilt? We’re talking lots of fabric. Fickle is the word on the Cabot Trail, especially when talking weather. The high winds were matched by low clouds and spats of moisture coated the windscreens and shields. At one point we were stuck behind a truck carrying lumber, followed by a Royal Canadian Mountie in a patrol car, riding into the clouds at 3 miles per hour up a cliff. It was a nightmare until the truck pulled over and even the Mountie took off. Once again the Cabot Trail was nirvana, but only for a short while this day for our hotel, the fabulous Keltic Lodge, was just down the road. (Continued on next page)
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With the pounding surf crashing on the rocks, the Keltic Lodge and Inn was the perfect place to plan a few days riding and adventure along the Cabot Trail, especially when the ghost of Ike was promised to leave.
DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
Eagles & Moose & Bear - oh my!
Waking to wonderful sunshine and diminishing breezes we headed north around the Cabot Trail. We had planned to take a Zodiac Whale Watching Tour, but the past few days weather pushed that aside, as it was still to rough for the skippers liking, so we moved on. We took one small loop road off the Cabot and along a nice stretch, high on the hills, we spotted a lone Bald Eagle simply perched on a tall pine, scoping out the bay looking for breakfast. What a great way to start the day’s ride. When we had been this way years ago we camped at a place called Meat Cove. More clueless than brave we had been battered that night by a brutal storm, but the worst was to come when we tried to leave the region and came face to face with gale force winds on French Mountain that literally stopped the bikes. To this day it was the worst motorcycle weather adventure we have experienced and we hoped to visit this old haunt in better weather this time. We first road to Bay Saint Lawrence, where the waves were still smashing into the old concrete dock and the massive swells flowed powerfully into the wharf. Doubling back we hooked a right towards Meat Cove. The gravel and clay road was still a roller coaster, but either the road had gotten tamer or we had gotten tougher as this time around it was more a blast than a chore.
Meat Cove was as stunning as ever with its towering cliffs, crashing waves and cascading waterfall. We even spotted a large seal that was cavorting in the surf. But, things have changed in ol’ Meat Cove. (See We’re Outta Here) We took a hearty lunch of chowder and mussels when Frank, one of the riders from our Cat crossing, rode up and joined us. He was staying in Cheticamp, so he joined us for the afternoon’s ride down along the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. In this part of Cape Breton the Cabot Trail laces its way around the mighty highland mountains, with great downhill runs, wonderful sweepers and amazing views around every turn. Along one straight we were all startled to see a moose cow amble up and onto the roadway. Her shear size was amazing! Lucky for us she decided the forest was more pleasant than the Cabot Trail. We passed the spot where Shira and I had lost our battle with the forces of nature so many years ago and then, when doing a few photo runs, I came upon a young black bear, simply watching me ride back and forth along the Cabot.
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
I stopped. He stopped. Then he decided that maybe I wasn’t such a good idea and he disappeared into the wilderness. This part of Nova Scotia is such a treat in every conceivable way. Just outside of Cap le Moine we stopped to see a rather strange display. Joe’s Scarecrow Village was worthy of a Mysterious America. What some folks will do. That evening found us bidding goodbye to Cape Breton. Our journey in Nova Scotia was nowhere near finished, but for me Cape Breton, and the Cabot Trail in particular, will always be one of my favorite places to ride. Crossing the Canso Causeway, and heading west along the strait, we found a great hotel called The Cove, who not only had a room, hot shower and superb restaurant, but also was very riderfriendly - offering us rags and a hose to wash the bikes (we declined), permanent kick stand pads built into the drive and a $10 discount on the room if you came by motorcycle. Now that was wonderfully different. After dinner we chatted with the owners Gardiner and Linda. Gardiner spoke of the days when this region was home to world championship Tuna fishing, and the photos on the wall of these huge monsters proved this was no fish tale. The Cove is a great place to overnight, whether coming or going to Cape Breton.
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The free ferry ride (you pay when you leave the island) took about 75 minutes, so we landed in P.E.I. by mid-afternoon and rode into the capital of Charlottetown. After all I had heard of P.E.I. I was slightly disappointed in the town, as it was very built up and seemed to have lost the cozy nautical feel I was told it once had. But, we once again turned north and rode along the Heron Trail to the far side of the island. Once away from Charlottetown the island morphed back into the P.E.I. of old and the traveling was scenic and pleasurable. We rounded the top of the island, riding through the tiny hamlet of Cavendish - setting of the famed novel Anne of Green Gables before heading back south, crossing over to New Brunswick on the giant Confederation Bridge. Some 9 miles long it is one magnificent engineering feat and something of which Canada should be very proud. Dropping back into Nova Scotia proper we took a room in the town of Amherst just as the shadows were growing long and the day was coming to an end. (Continued on next page)
Cape Breton to P.E.I. & Amherst
We had coffee the next day on a wooden picnic table in brilliant morning sunshine alongside the strait watching a cruise ship chugging its way slowly towards the canal. Heading into Northumberland we swung towards Cape George and the lighthouse that sits at the end of a twisty gravel road atop a broad hill overlooking the sea.
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Amherst to Annapolis Royal Riding even further back in time...
After the last few days of brilliance I was a little downtrodden to walk out to the bikes the following morn under a cold gray overcast with the feel of chilly moisture in the air. But, you know what they say about the weather in Nova Scotia? Right. The plan that day was to ride around the Goosecap Trail, around the Gulf of Fundy. Our first stop, just east of Amherst, was the famous UNESCO Fossil site at Joggings. The famous Fundy tides were at full ebb and we walked the trail and steps down to the bottom of the cliffs to experience this wonder of nature up close. In all our travels we have never seen a tide such as this. The ocean seemed to be a mile away and the now exposed sea bed was littered with stone, rocks and driftwood and the sandstone cliffs, lined with coal seams rose against the empty sea. It is here that the science of paleontology began and it is one of the most famous sites on the planet when it comes to fossils. Atop the cliff Nova Scotia has just opened an interpretative museum and center (see Big City Getaway) and it was well worth the hour we spent learning about life millions of year past. By the time we left the museum a cold rain had begun to fall, and with temperatures in the low40’s we went to the Gerbings for the first time since last winter.
DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
We were only about 10 minutes along when I realized that wonderful warmth that was flowing around my body had stopped and that my bike’s clock had turned itself back to 0. Oh, oh. Right around that time I noticed one of Shira’s signal light was out. It seemed that some Acadian electrical gremlin had jumped on board for the ride. Rounding one cape we came upon a small bay that, with the tide so far out, had a number of fishing boats tied to the wharf, lying on the bottom of the harbor, in the wet sand. It was an incredible sight and one we would see a few times over the next few day’s ride. We took breakfast near the wharf and took a look at the bikes. Not much could be done in the pouring rain so we rode on into Parrsboro where we stopped at an Irving Fuel station with a large overhanging canopy. Seeing that I needed to work on the bikes the owner came out an offered the warm and dry service bay for our use. What a wonderful idea, as the rain started to have a distinct white look to it. Soon I found that the powerplug had self-destructed and some wires got crossed, blowing out a 15 amp fuse. I McGuivered a fix and changed Shira’s bulb. Some twenty minutes later we were both warmly scooting along the Goosecap. Like the Cabot on the far side of Nova Scotia, this road was simply awesome, even in the wet, as it mimicked the bays, inlets and rivers of this land. Small towns and farms flew by and all too soon we were rounding the top of Fundy and heading back down the other side on equally entertaining roadways. To the west I could see a distinct line in the sky. Clouds - bright blue skies.
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An hour later we were bathed in a warm sunshine and we rode down to Annapolis Royal, the birthplace of Canada. We stayed at the cozy Garrison’s Inn, with its superb restaurant, and made friendly with the locals.
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Annapolis Royal to Yarmouth - One final ride...
In the morning we explored a bit around Annapolis Royal. This town was as pretty as they come and was everything that Charlottetown, in P.E.I. was not. We stopped by the wharf and talked with a fisherman whose boat was resting on the seabed, awaiting the coming tide and then rode by the only tide-powered powerplant in North
America. Here they use the dramatic tides to created electricity for the surrounding region. The force of the waters, running through the sluice gates was more than a bit impressive. Unfortunately, all good things .... We had to make the ferry at Yarmouth that afternoon, so we slowly cruised along the bay, deliberately taking our time, as neither one of us wanted this journey to end. We rode down the Evangeline Trail through tiny towns, occasionally veering off to explore a tiny lighthouse and stopping to see the largest wooden church in North America - Église Sainte-Marie in Church Point. Just to make our Canadian buddy Marc happy we stopped by a Tim Horton’s for lunch. Okay, that is done. Don’t need to do that again, what with so many tiny family-owned places along the way. By early afternoon we pulled into The Cat ferry lot and all too soon I was tying down the bikes in The Cat’s hold. Taking a comfortable airline-style seat I could feel the big engines fire up and soon we were sailing west at a high rate of speed, returning to Portland, Maine.
C Y C L E
Nova Scotia. New Scotland. It took us nearly a decade and a half to return, and that was way too long. In one week we had looped the entire province and rode along every trail. From Yarmouth in the south, to the wild roads of the coast, to the highlands of Cape Breton and the amazing tides of the Bay of Fundy - we rode it all and every turn held wonderful sights, incredible riding, friendly people and outstanding two-wheeled adventure. Nova Scotia is a wondrous place to ride and is so close to us that it practically begs to be visited. I know Shira and I will not wait another 14 years before we return. Perhaps a Backroads Rally back to New Scotland might be in order in the not too distant future. We’ll leave that up to you. Let us know if you’re interested? We know we are!
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The Cat Ferry- Nice Kitty
In all our travels I couldn’t tell you just how many ferries we have ridden on and off of. From tiny cable operated boats that shuttle across small bays to giant transport craft that ride the straits called Magellan. We have been on many. But, we have never been on one as slick as The Cat. In fact a recent Discovery Channel program on “Super Ships” ranked The Cat as #2 on the planet. She is one impressive kitty. Built by the Tasmanian company Inat, at a cost of $50.2 million dollars, the aluminum ferry is 318 feet long and its four water jets, with a combined power of 38,000 horses, push enough water to fill an Olympic swimming pool every 33 seconds. Able to cruise at 40 knots with 900 passengers and 240 vehicles tucked away she is a true starship of the seas. Once on board, with your motorcycles safely strapped down and tucked away in the hold, you’ll have plenty to do for the 5.5 hour journey from Portland or 3 hour trip from Bar Harbor. Both crossings land in Yarmouth; but in the mean time you’ll have a choice of four different movie theatres, one just showing Looney Tunes for the kids and kid at heart. It worked for us. If gambling is your
DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
thing there is a slot machine casino and a duty-free shop that has everything from clothing to touristy chachkas. Heading towards Nova Scotia there is also a desk set up with a tourism staff member ready to help with anything or any question you might have about Nova Scotia, which can come it quite handy.
When we were on board we were treated to a private tour of The Cat, including an up close and personal look at the mighty water jets that power the ferry and even spent a short time on the bridge which really did look like something from Star Trek. Simply put - The Cat is an amazing craft and the perfect way to get from Maine, USA to Yarmouth, Nova Scotia in speed, class and style. For more information and for scheduling and current pricing check The Cat’s website at:
www.catferry.com
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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
F IRST R IDE
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2009 STAR V STAR 950 • SVELTE, SEXY words: Brian Rathjen • images: Tom Riles
e: n i h c a M The
AND
FUN
But it wasn’t just about saddle height. When Star went about designing the 950 they started from scratch and their design team looked to create a machine that would bring out certain emotions in the rider. Something modern, yet with the classic cruiser look but still remaining light and sporty. Searching for design direction they looked to the past and found it in Italy circa 1927 - The Bugatti 38A Roadster. Here was a classic machine that, years ago, brought together all that Star was looking to do in 2009. Modern yet classic. Slim, sexy and a cut above the other machines of its class back in 1927. From there the designers at Star took their inspiration and created one sexy machine for today’s rider - the V Star 950. This machine, although created by a Japanese company, was completely designed in the USA. Powered by an air-cooled 942 cc 60° V Twin with 4 valves per cylinder the 950 has that traditional cruiser look to it. Internally the forged aluminum pistons ride along Ceramic Composite Plated cylinders allowing for superior heat dissipation. The engine is fed by a closed loop Mikuni Fuel Injection System and the exhaust is handled by a classic 2 into 1 Dual Expansion Chambered Muffler that hides a Catalytic Converter to help save the planet. (Continued on next page)
The trend over the last few years from Japan has been to build larger and larger cruisers. What were once considered large machines are now considered too small for the American market, who constantly asks for bigger bikes; or at least that is the thought from focus groups. Personally, although I can enjoy a larger mega-cruiser now and again, I prefer something a bit lighter and Ledgewood Powersports is a Phase 1 Can-Am Spyder dealer more fun to ride.
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One of the problems I see is many riders, who are of smaller size, women in particular, falling for peer pressure and buying these behemoths only to find they are far too large for them and eventually the idea of riding in general wears thin and they leave the sport. For you riders who have been looking for style and power, comfort and handling, but in a package that even Goldilocks would love, Star Motorcycles has introduced the V Star 950. With a saddle height of just 26.6 inches and the ability to firmly flat foot the machine, the 950 should fit the shorter crowd very well.
DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
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The Single Pin designed crankshaft and forged connecting rods offer that strong pulse perused by cruiser riders and the 950 feels like a much larger machine when simply at idle. Bring this workable power to the rear wheel is a 5 speed transmission utilizing straight cut gears that allow for light and positive engagement when shifting. The drive is handled by an ARAMID Reinforced Belt which offers great wear and minimal maintenance. All this sits in a newly designed double cradle steel frame where the engine is rigidly mounted at four points. Up front you will find sturdy 41mm KYB Forks and a single link-type shock in the rear.
With a rake 32° and a trail of 145mm the V Star 950 allows for stable running at straight high speeds and remarkable handling in the twisties. The 950 spins an all new design 8-Spoke cast aluminum wheel running an 18 X 350 inch tire up front and a 16 X 4.50 inch tire in the rear. The V Star 950 will be fitted with either Dunlop or Bridgestone tires from the factory, each designed specifically for the machine. The brakes are handle by a large 320 mm rotor in the front and a 298 mm disk in the back; the front utilizing a 2 piston slide caliper and the rear a single piston caliper. Both front and rear employ a large 12.7 mm piston master cylinder for more stopping power, but with a better feel while applying the brakes. The front brake and clutch feature wide blade levers for better feel and a more brawny look. As I mentioned the seat height on the V Star 950 is a huge point. At just 26.6 inches from the ground it is almost a full inch lower than Star’s own V Star 650! Wide in the back, but narrow in the front the saddle allows the smaller rider plenty of room to move around, yet offers both back and hip support. Combine this with the large floorboards, with replaceable feelers for you go fast kids, and the wide low-profile handlebars and you have a superior mount for all day riding. The fuel tank sports a sleek new deign as well and with 4.4 gallons should offer a decent range between stops. On the tank you will find a meter design speedometer with a digital readout that counts off when you have gone on reserve. For those of you who not only want a great day to day ride, but feel the need to get out and explore (You know you are our sort of rider, dontcha?) Star offers the V Star 950 in a Tourer version as well. The V Star 950 Tourer comes with just a few extras that you might find handy on the road. First off there is a short, but workable windshield. To
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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
carry a few days worth of gear there are deep 42 liter hard bags appointed with a rich leather. For passenger comfort a backrest will be found as well. With a price point of just $1,100 more this is a very attractive option for you road warriors.
On the Road:
I spent a bit of time on the new V-Star 950 down in Georgia a few months back. My first impression of the new machine in the Star line-up was very positive, this would only be enhanced with each mile. Looking very sleek, it is obvious that it has followed the wake of previous Star machines, the Warrior and Raider and looks fast while still leaning on its side stand. Getting astride the 950 I was immediately impressed with the ergonomics and at just about 6 feet I was comfortable but snug. A well-known scribe with more gravitas than hair, who stands at 6 foot three, felt a bit more than snug and would have preferred a larger less restricting saddle. For those of you under 6 feet the 950 is ideal. Starting the machine the V Twin fuel injected engine fell into an easy rumble and snicking the V Star 950 into gear I was impressed by the ease of the clutch, another good point for smaller riders. On the road the 950 felt more like something well over the 1-liter mark. It offered great pull from the lights and whether softly cruising along the pretty north Georgia backroads or bombing the mountain twisties at more aggressive speeds the V Star 950 was more than up to the task. On bigger roads the machine easily ate up the miles; which would allow for all sorts of touring and travel opportunities. Styling-wise, I was totally taken. Coming in three different colors for the V Star 950, Raven Black, Tommy Blue and Candy Red, with two other colors available for the Tourer, Raven Black, Black Cherry and Liquid Silver, I thought Star outdid themselves, and although I rode a Liquid Silver Tourer for most of the day I must admit a bit of lust when looking at the V Star 950 in Candy Red. Just superb! The brakes, which I had to employ once or twice very quickly, worked easily and with little excitement - just smooth and steady. Handling-wise I was very impressed with the V Star 950. Even in the sportbike dominated back hills of the Chattahoochee National Forest the machine was a true blast to ride and, although I was snug in the saddle, I felt the sitting position and rideability of the V Star 950 was a cut above many other cruisers.
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Final Thoughts:
I think when Star decided to fill a void in the cruiser market they got it right from the very start. With so many women and young beginners being channeled by friends and peers onto larger inappropriate machines the V Star 950 is like a breath of fresh air. For those of you who might have read some of my Free Wheelin’ articles on smaller riders struggling with too large a machine, I have called many times for the need of smaller, yet exciting, machines. The V Star 950 is just that machine. It offers the perfect combination of saddle height, power, handling, modern technology and sexy good looks that make it an all around winner, especially if you are that woman or young rider or, for that matter, that more experienced rider looking for a lighter and fun machine to ride. You’ll find the V Star 950 and the V Star 950 Tourer at your Star dealership now. The list price for the V Star 950 is $7,890 in Raven and $8,090 for the Red or Blue machines and the Tourer lists for $8,990 in Raven and Black Cherry and $9,090 in Liquid Silver. For more information log onto: www.starmotorcycles.com
DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
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F IRST R IDE
THE GRISO BREATHES DEEPER
There are many, many things I like about Italians, and one of my favorite traits is the fact that they like to run around naked. OK, it’s too much fun to start any story with a declaration like that, but I do mean it sincerely. Of course, I am referring primarily to taking a sport bike chassis and removing the bodywork to reveal the mechanicals beneath, but I’m not averse to the odd unclad Italian supermodel either. But for now, let’s talk about a motorcycle that marks a very cool departure in many ways for Moto Guzzi and a true naked street brawler besides. This is largely due to some very big changes in the engine room, and a chassis that is one of the most advanced that the Goose People have ever designed and built. The Guzzi Griso 8V is named as it is because the wonderful, iconoclastic transverse-mounted 90-degree V-Twin (that is a Moto Guzzi icon the way Harley’s mighty V-Twin is for the Motor Company) is graced with 4-valve heads. Words: Bill Heald • images: Moto Guzzi
This in itself is a big deal, and the 1151cc “Quattrovalvole” design is a significant departure from the Guzzi’s of the past. But, the
changes hardly stop there. The fact is there’s tons more new stuff inside those massive engine cases, and Moto Guzzi claims 563 new components are used to thoroughly modernize this classic mill. The horsepower is up to a claimed 110 at 7,500 RPMs, thanks not only to the freer breathing the 4-valve heads allow but other magic like a brace of huge 50mm throttle bodies that feed the new pistons, that work in concert with Weber injectors to meter the unleaded. There’s still a mess o’ lovely mechanical noise as this is a Guzzi after all and those big cylinders are practically in your lap. But thanks to the use of “silent” timing chain, I actually believe it is a bit less raucous than before. However, there is one visually “loud” component easily seen on the right side of the engine directly below the right cylinder: a huge oil radiator that works in concert with the traditional cooling fins to keep the crude controlled on the thermal front. Another visual stunner is the Griso’s exhaust system, which is a two-into-one-intoone-and-one-half sort of affair that looks like a Norse God might blow into it to summon thunder. This catalyst-equipped megamufflerphone produces the kind of excellent Italian V-Twin rumbling you would expect, and is quite intoxicating.
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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
The style that is both creative and has form following function elements is not limited to the engine by any stretch. The Griso has a sculpted steel frame that is really cool in that it almost looks like the tubular side spars are tree limbs that the 4.4-gallon tank is growing into. It’s organic, man! OK, mi esposa was painting the bathroom, and perhaps I may have inhaled a few too many fumes. But the Griso is unusually interesting on the style front, and I find this particular aspect visually fascinating along with the wild exhaust system. Form ultimately follows function, and the handsome Griso 8V is as functional as all get out. That new 8 valve motor revs quicker than any Guzzi I’ve ever experienced, and is rich in low-end torque and has a broad spread of power. Throttle response is great with only a trace of part-throttle “hunting” at around 4,000 RPM occasionally. It’s no big deal, and otherwise the fuel injection is exemplary. Overall, muscle is abundant in this Mighty Goose and yet those big pistons never produce excessive vibration. In fact, at highway cruising speeds (say 70 MPH) the 1151cc engine is really smooth (8-valve Norge, anyone?). All those new parts in the engine have definitely refined one of my favorite motors in all of motorycledom, all without losing that wonderful Steerman biplane character. Oh, and I almost forgot: the 6-speed transmission took a nice light tap to changer cogs; a definite improvement over some Guzzis of the past that took a bit of effort to convince the gears to move on. Nothing on this bike was overlooked when they went for the new 4-valve
Page 35
heads, apparently. As is standard Guzzi practice, final drive is shaft and the stout single-sided swingarm has a series of u-joints incorporated inside to dramatically reduce “shaft-jacking” under clumsy throttle inputs. It works well, too. All of this wonderful drivetrain stuff would be all for naught if there wasn’t a solid chassis underneath it, and once again the Griso does not disappoint. I already mentioned the substantial frame, and the fully adjustable 43mm male slider front forks are balanced with a fully adjustable gascharged single rear shock. Brakes are radially-mounted Brembos on 320mm fully floating discs up front, with a single 282mm disc out back. Unlike the Guzzis of old these brakes aren’t linked, in keeping with the Griso’s performance nature. Handling is stable thanks to a longish 61-inch wheelbase, but the bike still turns in pretty quickly. Even though the big V-Twin is mounted fairly high, the bike doesn’t feel top-heavy and it manages its claimed 489-lb dry weight well. The broad handlebar provides plenty of leverage, and with a moderate bend to the pegs your body is upright but slightly forward, allowing you to fight the wind blast at speed with a degree of comfort. I find it rather cool that when the Guzzi folks decided to put these 4-valve heads on the Griso, they did a major overhaul of the rest of the engine and polished the motorcycle it’s bolted to. The result is a serious Standard/Street fighter/NeckedItalian/GigaGoose that is really entertaining and handsome to boot. The MSRP is $14,290, and there’s a couple of cool paint schemes to choose from. www.motoguzzi-us.com
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DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
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UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR E V E R Y M O N T H - W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G Second Sunday • Philadelphia Breakfast Ride. Meet at Silk City Diner - 5th/Spring Garden, Philadelphia PA - 8am • 215-922-2214 Every Sunday • Eastern Suffolk ABATE Breakfast Run. Crossroads Diner - Calverton NY. 10:30am. Eat and Ride After • 631-369-2221 Every Tuesday • The Ear - Spring St, NYC. Come meet some fellow riders and do some benchracing or whatever. 8pm-ish
NOVEMBER 23 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • HillBilly Hall, 203 Hopewell-Wertsville Rd, Hopewell, NJ • 609-466-9856 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com 28-29 • Black Friday and Orange Saturday • Check your local Harley-Davidson dealer for specials and events. 29 • Cross Country BMW and Ducati Open House • 875 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ • 732-635-0094 • www.ccbmw.com • www.ccducati.com 30 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • Schoch’s Harley-Davidson, Route 33, Snydersville, PA • 570-992-7500 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com
DECEMBER 7 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • Montgomeryville Cycle, 2901 Bethlehem Pike, Hatfield, PA • 215-712-7433 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com 14 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • The Cabin, 984 Route 33, Howell, NJ • 732-462-3039 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com 21 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • Frog Rock Inn & Country Club, 420 Boyer Ave, Hammonton, NJ • 609-561-5504 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com 28 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • DeThomasi’s East 5 Points Inn, 580 Tuckahoe Rd, Vineland, NJ • 856-691-6080 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com
JANUARY 2009 Jan. 2-4 • North American International Motorcycle SUPERSHOW, Toronto Int’l Center, Toronto, Canada. 425,000 sq. ft. of motorcycle exhibits. Unparalleled motorcycle shopping extravaganza offering something for every interest including sport bikes, cruisers, motocross, off-road, vintage, touring and custom bikes, as well as scooters and ATVs. For full details and information, please visit www.supershowevents.com Jan. 3-4 • Kev-Marv Productions at the Connecticut Expo Center, Hartford, CT • www.kevmarv.com 4 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • Wearhouse Grill, 161 Route 181, Lake Hopatcong, NJ • 732663-2222 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com 9-11 • Advanstar International www.motorcycleshows.com
Motorcycle
Show
-
Washington,
D.C.
•
Jan. 10-11 • Kev-Marv Productions at the Shriner Auditorium,Wilmington, MA • www.kevmarv.com 11 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • Sir John’s, 230 Washington Place, North Brunswick, NJ • 732-297-3803 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com 16-18 • Advanstar International Motorcycle Show - Jacob Javits Center, NYC • www.motorcycleshows.com 16-18 • 4th Annual Springfield Motorcycle Show, Eastern States Exposition, W. Springfield, MA • 413-467-2171 18 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • Flying “W” Airport, 60 Fostertown Rd, Medford, NJ • 609267-8787 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com Jan. 24-25 • Kev-Marv Productions at the Rockingham Racetrack, Salem, NH • www.kevmarv.com Jan. 23-25 • Kev-Marv Productions at the Gr. Reading Expo Ctr, Reading, PA • www.kevmarv.com 25 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • The Exchange, 160 E. Main St, Rockaway, NJ • 973-6278488 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com
FEBRUARY 2009 1 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • Club Dix, E. 6th St/Alabama Ave, Fort Dix, NJ • 609-723327 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com Feb. 7-8 • Kev-Marv Productions at the Bayside Expo Center, Boston, MA • www.kevmarv.com 7 • 91st Running of the Crotona Midnight Run. Sign in: 11pm, Nathan/Kohl Parking Lot, Central Park Ave, Yonkers, NY. Key time: 12:01am Feb. 8. $15/pp • 201-767-3594 8 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • Landslide Saloon, 1090 Route 173, Pattenburg, NJ • 908735-6919 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com 14-15 • Kev-Marv Productions-Fredericksburg Expo Ctr, Fredericksburg, VA • www.kevmarv.com 15 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • Hooters, 25 Route 23 South, Wayne, NJ • 973-837-1876 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com
What’s Happenin’ Feb. 21-22 • Kev-Marv Productions at the Garden State Exhibit Ctr, Somerset, NJ • www.kevmarv.com 22 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • Bahrs Landing, 2 Bay Ave, Highlands, NJ • 732-872-1245 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com 21-March 3 • Backroads Goes Way South. Tour South Africa with SAMA Tours and Backroads. See ad on page 34 for details • www.samatours.co.za
MARCH 2009 1 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • Firehouse Eatery, 455 Saint Georges Ave, Rahway, NJ • 732-382-9500 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com 8 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • Long Valley Pub & Brewery, 1 Fairmount Rd, Long Valley, NJ • 908-876-1122 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com March 14-15 • Kev-Marv Productions-Gr. Philadelphia Expo Ctr, Philadelphia, PA • www.kevmarv.com 15 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • The Chatterbox, 1 Route 15 South, Augusta, NJ • 973300-2300 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com 22 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • Brian’s Harley-Davidson, 600 S. Flowers Mill Rd, Langhorne, PA • 215-752-9400 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com 29 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • Jenkinson’s Pavilion, 300 Ocean Ave, Point Pleasant Beach, NJ • 732-892-0272 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com
APRIL 2009 5 • Polar Bear 2008-2009 • Cape May VFW Post 386, 419 Congress St, Cape May, NJ • 609-884-7961 • www.polarbeargrandtour.com
MAY 2009 15-18 • Backroads’ Spring Break 2009. We’ll be heading to Hancock, NY to spend three nights at the Hancock House Hotel. See ad on page 50 for details. Make sure you book early as the rooms are extremely limited • www.newhancockhouse.com • 607-6377100 • www.motorcycleshows.com
AUGUST 2009 19-22 • Women’s International Motorcycle www.womenandmotorcycling.com
Conference,
Keystone,
CO
•
29-30 • Indianapolis MotoGP, Indianapolis, IN • www.redbullindianapolisgp.com
SEPTEMBER 2009 11-13 • Schampa Women’s Sportbike Rally IV, Fontana Village Resort, Fontana Dam, NC • www.womenssportbikerally.com • 614-499-3591 • www.fontanavillage.com
OCTOBER 2009 9-11 • Philadelphia Motorcycle Show, Greater Philadelphia Expo Center at Oaks, PA • www.phillyexpos.com • 856-626-3226
DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
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THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD ANALYSIS PARALYSIS
In most every sport, a certain amount of information is required if optimum choices in equipment are to be made. Skiing, for example, requires a rudimentary knowledge of ski types, lengths, bindings and the like. Golf, asks new players to recognize the difference between a putter and a sand wedge, and to sort out the even more subtle nuances between a seven and nine-iron. But nowhere is such scrutiny required more than in hobbies involving big-ticket performance items, such as our beloved motorcycling. Here, the machine you ultimately straddle is the pricey item you are stuck with for quite some time, so it pays to get things right from the get-go. Not too surprisingly it is within our number that analysis-paralysis, or “frozen with fear” syndrome wreaks its greatest havoc. Once set in motion, this insidious brain-freeze often finds those afflicted curiously making no moves at all. This brings to our world still more “Sidewalk Commandos,” a back-handed term for a most unwelcome condition. All of this begs the question: Can a tenth of a second difference in the quarter-mile or 10- 20 MPH on the top-end really separate those machines worth owning from those that should be kicked to the curb? And, should any of this be enough to effectively stop a potential motorcyclist from taking the plunge? When I first started riding, I did so aboard an economically agreeable if woefully underpowered parallel-twin. It was ridiculously hard to start, handled on a par with a Winnebago, could reach 100 MPH only from the south end of a cliff, and lacked the refinement and sophistication of bigger-bore machinery. Still, I was fine with it because I was riding and having fun. My buddy “Bill,” on the other hand, would wait one full year longer than I to purchase his first bike. Why? Simply because he was torn between many different models and feared that he’d ultimately make the wrong decision particularly in the eyes of others. When Bill finally did ante up, he quickly tired of his machine as it was almost immediately outclassed (in magazine shoot-outs anyway) and was no longer worthy in his opinion. Soon, his shiny new bike was up for sale and his second, even more pronounced bout with analysis - paralysis began. More recently, I witnessed an otherwise confident man (let’s call him
Jeff Bahr
Dave) reduced to a quivering mass of self-doubt when he learned that a new, fully redesigned Kawasaki Concours had been released. Since he had just purchased a sport-tourer from a competitor, he wondered if his new machine would now look like a Model - T beside a Ferrari in comparison. He also feared that he might somehow be missing out on the true motorcycling experience. After all, this new beast featured an obscenely powerful motor (shucks, it was a nano-second faster than his even), much-coveted heated grips (gentlemen deplore frostbite, they say) and a genuine DC power outlet (whoopee!); features which his suddenly antiquated machine sorely lacked. Horrors! How could he possibly weather the shame? By now the culprit should be obvious. In fact, the reasons for such fencesitting almost never involve pure economics, and almost always include battles with self-image and a bizarre desire/need to own the latest bit of technology. Crazy, huh? You betcha! Now, I’m not suggesting we all ride junk heaps; quality and pride of ownership certainly have their place. But, if the overall motorcycling experience is impacted so severely by this mindset, clearly something is wrong in Motoville. Think about it. If an “old” machine handles as if locked on conventional rails and a new one as if levitating on a maglift monorail, is there really enough difference between the two to cause the owner of the former to ditch his “backward piece of crap” in favor of the next, newest thing? I don’t think so. While it’s a hoot to hear trendy types rattle off near-meaningless specification differences between modern models (often with chests puffed out), it’s even more fun and a heck of a lot more fulfilling to “love the one your with,” as the old song goes. Today’s motorcycles are so extraordinarily capable, none of this stuff makes much real world difference anyway. We’re only fooling ourselves. If William Shakespeare still walked amongst us, he’d likely sum things up by going to the crux: “Methinks some try too hard to one-up the Joneses,” he’d likely say. Feel free to draw your own conclusions as to the bard’s thinly-veiled meaning here, but do NOT become paralyzed with fear in the process. Hanging out on that footpath isn’t all that it’s cracked up to be. Just ask any sidewalk commando plagued with recurring bouts of regret, or former riders Bill and Dave. They’ll tell ya.”
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BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
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INDUSTRY INFOBITES RIDE FOR KIDS® ANNOUNCES NEW
NEWS GIVEAWAY
Last year’s Ride for Kids®/Cycle World International Motorcycle Shows motorcycle drawing raised more than $84,000 for the Pediatric Brain Tumor Foundation, more than any bike in the drawing’s history. Looking to build on that success, Cycle World and the Ride for Kids® program approached Roland Sands Design about doing a third bike for the annual drawing. Starting with a Honda CBR1000RR again as the base, RSD created an entirely new look, an aggressive, yet clean, bike they have dubbed “The Mission.” Drawing tickets are available now online and at all 13 stops on the Cycle World International Motorcycle Show circuit. “I was amazed to hear that we set records with last year’s bike. It pushed me to want to create a bike that everyone would want to win, a bike to break our own records,” says Sands. “With ‘The Mission’ we have a chance to record the greatest amount of donations for a giveaway. And all for a cause I truly believe in.” This is the ninth consecutive year that Cycle World has partnered with Ride for Kids(r) for the drawing. All the proceeds from the ticket sales benefit the PBTF, which funds medical research and family support programs for children with brain tumors. The Mission winner will be drawn at random on May 1, 2009. Tickets are one for $5 or five for $20. Buy yours today online or call 800-253-6530. MOTORCYCLE
IF YOU ARE AN AMA MEMBER THEN YOU MUST SEE THIS Recently AMA CEO Rob Dingman gave a speech to AMA Congress members. In it he addressed just what exactly is going on in Ohio and the AMA. Although a tough speech to give we thought it a breath of fresh air. If you are not a member then this is all the reason you’ll need to join. Bravo, Rob Dingman! Head here on the web and join today! www.amadirectlink.com/join/index.asp www.americanmotorcyclist.com/congress/dingmanspeech.asp
FROM THE INSIDE
ATGATT ROCKTHEGEAR.COM
Brittany Morrow, who is featured on our website, has constantly preached the benefits of wearing the proper riding gear. She would know, as her personal story is poignant and heartbreaking. Now she has a website dedicated to riders, encouraging them to be smart, ride aware and to wear proper gear all the time. Check it out at www.rockthegear.com
JAPAN DROPPED PRODUCTION IN AUGUST
Although metric manufacturers significantly decreased motorcycle production in August, the number of U.S. exports actually dropped by less than 2% . The manufacturers that are part of the Japanese Automobile Manufacturers Association, which includes Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki and Kawasaki, decreased production in August by 43.6% compared to the yearago month. Total production numbered 76,487 units. Exports also decreased, down 11.2% from the year-ago period. However, the U.S. export total of 25,296 new units dropped only 1.6% .
SCHAMPA WOMEN’S SPORTBIKE RALLY IV, SEPT. 11-13, 2009 The Schampa Women’s Sportbike Rally IV presented by Draggin’ Jeans is pleased to announce the 2009 event scheduled for September 11-13. Although typically held the weekend prior to Labor Day, the date was moved to accommodate participants who plan to attend the AMA Women’s International Motorcycle Conference, August 19-22, and the Indianapolis MotoGP, August 29-30. The date may have changed, but the traditional features of the rally continue with plans to keep elements fresh and entertaining each year. The rally will return to the Great Smoky Mountains headquartered at Fontana Village Resort in Fontana Dam, N.C. The rally has called Fontana home since the first event in 2006 due to the fantastic accommodations that boast modern conveniences while surrounded by beautiful mountain scenery and plenty of curvy roads. Although it is early in the planning stages, WSR IV plans to be the best (Continued on next page)
DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
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yet, so be sure to mark your calendars and secure that vacation time for an event you do not want to miss. Stay up-to-date by joining the WSR list by emailing info@womenssportbikerally.com or check out our website at www.womenssportbikerally.com
HARLEY-DAVIDSON LAUNCHES NEW V-ROD MUSCLE AD CAMPAIGN WITH MARISA MILLER
To emphasize the non-traditional pairing of sophisticated style and brute strength, Harley-Davidson chose to launch the new 2009 V-Rod Muscle in a distinctly non-traditional way-by teaming up with American Supermodel Marisa Miller in an innovative marketing campaign to introduce the latest addition to Harley-Davidson’s high-performance line of V-Rod motorcycles. The new V-Rod Muscle features a powerfully sculpted new physique that exudes a contemporary and urban sense of style. The Muscle’s long, low profile and super wide rear tire are inspired by the drag strip, while the freerevving performance of the liquid-cooled Revolution V-Twin engine codeveloped with Porsche give it an unmatched combination of power and sophistication. Partnering with American supermodel Marisa Miller is a perfect match. The V-Rod Muscle’s sculpted body and commanding physique complement Miller, who not only represents classic American beauty, but also strength and athleticism. Miller is best known for gracing the cover of many prominent publications, but she also represents the return of the great American
570-992-7500
Supermodel. Miller grew up around motorcycles in California and has a strong appreciation for Harley-Davidson. “To represent such an iconic American brand is incredible,” said Miller. “I have grown up watching my dad and uncle ride Harleys. It’s amazing to circle back at this point in my career, and work with a brand I have so much respect for.”
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The Motorcycle Safety Foundation’s Military SportBike RiderCourseSM, developed in close collaboration with the U.S. Navy and U.S. Army safety centers, is now available to all branches of the Department of Defense. Developed to address the increasing number of military personnel who are involved in sport bike crashes, the MSF Military SportBike RiderCourse is a “next-level” training course for military riders who have completed the MSF Basic RiderCourse. The one-day course consists of approximately three hours of classroom interactive lessons and four hours of oncycle range time, and is taught by instructors (RiderCoaches) who receive additional training and special MSF certification to teach the course. “The goal is to provide riders with a way to further develop personal riding strategies and decision-making abilities to help them minimize their risk,” said Dr. Ray Ochs, MSF director of training systems. The classroom segment focuses on the behavioral aspects of riding such as attitude and personal risk assessment, and includes discussions about braking proficiency, cornering techniques, traction management, and characteristics unique to sport bikes. The hands-on range session builds on these topics by providing riders the opportunity to develop and improve skills in braking, cornering and swerving. A student pocket takeaway booklet, the “Sport Bike Survival Guide,” will be provided to all military personnel who participate in the course. Written by accomplished sport bike riding instructor Nick Ienatsch, with a foreword from Superbike Champion Ben Spies, it includes riding techniques, street strategies, handy reference materials, quick tips, and additional resources for those seeking to further their knowledge and skills.
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
(Continued from page 8)
Well OK, then. To think I thought these fine craftspeople were out of their freakin’ minds to honestly believe their motorcycle is worth such a princely sum, but here they go and toss a watch into the deal. Of course the MSRP is justified. What was I thinking? Obviously I want two, now. Here’s the thing: I do believe there’s an old adage somewhere that states that an object is worth whatever somebody will pay for it, and no doubt there’s some sheik in Dubai who wants to ride around in his palace on his ECOSSE, glancing down at his BRM to see when it’s time for tea. Such trappings of the uberwealthy are certainly their own affairs and not mine, and whatever floats your boat, man. But this darling little scoot got me to thinking: I don’t put enough emphasis on marketing and image. I am pondering selling my poor carb-damaged Magna, and I was thinking I couldn’t get much for it. But what if I just trick up the ad copy a bit, put the price on a Shuttle launch gantry and shoot it up into the stratosphere and see if I can get a nibble? If the ECOSSE is simply stunning, why can’t the old Magpie be Bloody Marvelous? Drop-dead stupendously exclusive? Sheathed of the finest materials in the shadow of Mount Fuji and all? And hey, I even have an old Casio G-Force watch that still works, a genuine Panavision baseball cap AND a belt buckle with my initials on it given to me by Julia Roberts. They are matched to the artfulness of the motorcycle, you see. ECOSSE my ass. I’m selling the MAGOSSE, and no, you won’t find this jewel and its unique matched accessories on ebay. The price? No man can say. POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE
AMA
URGES
DOT
TO ACCELERATE
American Motorcyclist Association President and CEO Rob Dingman called for the U.S. Department of Transportation to accelerate a long-overdue federal study into the causes of motorcycle crashes in a meeting with the agency’s head, Secretary Mary Peters, on Friday, October 3. Acting Administrator of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) David Kelly, and AMA Vice President of Government Relations Ed Moreland also attended the meeting. “There are an estimated 10 million motorcyclists on the road today, more than at any time in America’s history,” said Dingman, who heads the nation’s 300,000member non-profit association. “As a direct result of this growth and increased usage, we are experiencing more crashes, injuries and fatalities. Our meeting with Secretary Peters—a motorcyclist herself—was cordial yet frank. We believe she understands the sense of urgency to get this crash research underway.” According to NHTSA statistics released by Peter’s office in September, the number of motorcycle riders or passengers killed on U.S. roads in 2007 increased 6.6 percent over 2006, while the overall number of traffic fatalities fell to the lowest number since 1994. “Some time ago, Congress and the motorcycling community committed the necessary funds for this study,” said Dingman. “For too long, NHTSA has simply focused on a strategy of advocating mandatory helmet use, while doing little to prevent crashes from occurring in the first place. With a new administration set to take office on January 20, we can’t afford any more delays while motorcycle crashes, injuries and fatalities continue to mount. The time to begin the study is now.” Dingman stressed that while the AMA strongly supports voluntary helmet use as one element of a comprehensive approach to motorcycle safety, a higher priority must be given by NHTSA to crash prevention, which must include greater emphasis on motorist awareness programs to educate road users about motorcycles. MOTORCYCLE CRASH STUDY
Page 41
H OLIDAY G IFT I DEA
SADDLEMEN EXPLORER TANK MAP POUCH
Now you can put a map right where you need it and carry small articles (phone, music player, GPS, etc) in a convenient, easy-to-reach place. The sturdy zippered pouch is secured to the Map Pocket with twist locks and magnets, so you can lift up the pouch for quick map viewing or remove it altogether. Two audio ports (front and rear) allow a wire to connect to your device inside the pouch, for earphones, etc. Both mounting systems are strong, and allow these Map Pockets to safely adhere to your gas tank (magnetic for steel tanks, suction for steel or plastic). It’s available in two sizes, a Medium 9” x 11” and a Large 10.75” x 11.75”. Work great on cruisers, tourers, sportbikes and everything in between. The magnetic versions sell for $44.96 and the Suction cup versions for under $60. Saddlemen products are available at your nearby Parts Unlimited (for metric) and Drag Specialties (for Harley) retailers.
MOTORCYCLEMADNESS NEW JERSEY’S LARGEST PRE-OWNED BIKE SELLER Top Cash Paid for All Bikes Over • 60 Clean Street, Dirt and ATVs In Stock at All Times Huge selection of parts and accessories including tires, luggage, touring accessories, rain gear, sportbike performance parts and exhausts and cruiser parts and accessories
500 Helmets In Stock from Icon, Shoei, Suomy, HJC, Scorpion, KBC and more
WE’LL BEAT ANY INTERNET DEAL
200 Jackets, Pants, Boots from First Gear, Rocket, Fox, Thor, River Road, ZIR, Technic, AlpineStar and MORE!
Gift Certificates Available 8 Route 94 ~ Newton, NJ 1 mile north of Newton 1/4 mile north of Rtes. 206/94 intersection
973-579-6088 www.MadMotorcycle.com
Washington Cycle Works Made in the USA
Built to last!
SiDi Boots in Stock Race Styles Vertigo • Vertigo Corsa
er s d Rac to Roa all r e t a t We C uppor ations and S iz n a g r ay O D k c a Tr
• Cobra II and Hurricane Jackets Check out the Vanson line of American made leather apparel • Velocity Suits
One-Piece Road Race Suits In Stock
www.washingtoncycleworks.com Junction of Rte. 57/31, Washington, NJ 07882 •
908-835-0043
DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
Page 42
H O L I D AY G I F T I D E A S EDELWEISS 2009 CATALOG
If you’re looking for a place to disappear, you might want to leave this catalog from Edelweiss out for Santa on Christmas Eve. With over 100 pages of worldwide motorcycling vacations to peruse, you can see why Edelweiss is known around the planet as the leader in motorcycle tours and adventures. In it you’ll find tours around the United States, Europe, South America, Africa and the Far East. If there is someplace you have dreamed about riding to, then you will probably find a tour in this book. For more information or to get your own catalog, go to www.edelweissbike.com.
WHITEHORSE GEAR WINTER 2008/2009 CATALOG
With Christmas coming soon you might want a little help being Santa to that rider in your life, or to yourself for that matter. The new 2008/2009 Winter Catalog from Whitehorse Gear is now out and it has a full 80 pages of cool motorcycle stuff. From riding gear to accessories, neat tools to a library full of motorcycle books, this catalog is a must have if you are looking for the very best in motorcycle presents this holiday. To get yours call 800-531-1133 or log onto www.whitehorsegear.com.
F&#K
THE
RAIN UMBRELLA
If you have ever ridden on one of our Backroads’ Rallies you might want to bring this little beauty on the next go around. Small enough to slip into a tank bag it will finally give you a chance to tell those nasty clouds just what you really think of them, while giving you the protection you need. $50 from http://store.artlebedev.com.
SCORPIONXDR™ RECON GLOVES
The new ScorpionExoWear(tm) Recon gloves allow you to ride in any condition with comfort, protection and confidence. The Recon uses tough, ballistic nylon and flexible goatskin to keep your hands comfortable; while a Hipora(tm) liner make the gloves waterproof, yet breathable. Hook and Loop wrist closures and adjustable gauntlets hold the Recons snugly in place over any sleeve and allow for maximum adjustability. The Recon palm offers a double layer of textured, slip resistant leather in all the crucial areas and additional steel-carbon material for additional abrasion protection. To further protect you from the elements the Recon comes equipped with a removable light-weight fleece liner for the exceptionally chilly days. The Recon is available in Black; with sizes ranging from extra-small to triple-extra large; MSRP $85.95 More information about Scorpion Sports, Inc. and the ScorpionExo(tm) Helmet and ScorpionExoWear(tm) line can be found at ScorpionUSA.com.
DON’T HIT THE
ROAD WITHOUT THE RIGHT
FOR YOUR The K&K Advantage • Super Low Rates • Free Quotes • High Limits on Liability • Coverage for Accessories • Book Value at Time of Loss • Defensive Driver Discounts • 25 Years Experience • Fast, Courteous,
BIKE
Is your insurance broker taking you for a ride? Are you getting all of the protection for your bike and accessories that you deserve? K&K Brokerage has been in the business of insuring motorcycles and their riders for over 25 years. Their Cycle Insurance Advantage Program offers motorcycle owners the most comprehensive and cost-effective coverage available.
Expert Service For a
FREE QUOTE, call 1-800-235-5567 Major Credit Cards Accepted
Your Motorcycle Insurance Specialists 3195 Richmond Road Staten Island, NY 10306 Tel: 1-800-235-5567 or 1-718-987-1515 Email:insbike@aol.com
www.insurance-motorcycles.com
Coverage available in New Jersey, New York, Connecticut, and Pennsylvania
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
Page 43
H O L I D AY G I F T I D E A S AEROSTICH FLEECE JACKETS
New high-warmth, low-bulk jackets that will become favorites the first time you put them on. More than common ‘outdoor’ fleece jackets, these are fitted specially for riding. The collar is cut for more comfort with a helmet strap and the slightly longer sleeves are trimmed down and forward rotated for less bulk under riding gear. Durable Lycra binding at the hem and sleeves stop drafts without absorbing water, and the torso is shorter in front and longer in back for a better fit. Zippered inside and outside chest pockets secure valuables like cell phones and wallets, and zippered side pockets are placed slightly forward for easier access. A quick-draw inner chest pocket is ideal for sunglasses or a bandanna. The Wind Blocker version uses a warm, soft two-sided fleece that features a thinner micro velour face with a moisture wicking mesh back. It’s thinner than the Soft Shell version, but it blocks 98% of the wind, and offers 2X faster moisture wicking than other windproof fleece fabrics. The thicker Soft Shell Fleece is the warmest/most advanced fleece available. It also blocks 98% of the wind, and features a spandex/mechanical stretch for even greater freedom of movement, faster moisture wicking and improved breathability. These are the best riders’ fleece jackets in the world, and some of the best for general wear, too. Machine wash. S-XXL. USA. TLTec Wind Blocker (blue or cayenne) $127.00 • TLTec Soft Shell (grey) $147.00. For a free catalog, call 800-222-1994 or email catalog@aerostich.com. When the weather starts to turn cool and the man-made Global Warming crowd grows silent we look to science and design to keep our tootsies warm - but since we can’t carry a blazing fire around with us we go for the next best thing. Sokz! These are the perfect socks for cold weather. Made of ceramic fiber (20% ), these socks offer the highest level of insulation from the cold. The other main fiber is Lenpur(r), which is a derivative from wood, which offer superior transfer of humidity. The comfort is incredible from the soft feel of the fibers, with padding around the toes and the heel, and along the front of the sock. Like all the other Sokz, they are perfectly anatomic with a left and right sock and have built-in arch support for less fatigue The Sokz also have elastic around the top and around the ankle for staying in place and channels along the back of the sock for air circulation. The flat seams across the toe with no hard “corners” allow for one of the most comfortable socks on the market. Available in tall only (over the calf), they come in a fun black/grey/orange color scheme. The ceramic Sokz sell for $25 and are a worthy investment if you are going to do some Polar Bear riding this winter. Log onto www.real-rider.com to get yours!
CERAMIC SOKZ - KEEPING
YOUR FEET WARM
BMW’S NEW K1300S
Machines just keep getting more powerful these days. BMW K-series sport machines have been bumped up to 1,293cc for a significant boost in power and performance. In addition to the reworked engine the suspension has also be upgraded and offers the rider more feedback and comfort. The bikes will also have the option of BMW’s EAS II AND ASC Anti-Spin Control. Look to see these machines at your local BMW dealer soon.
Line ‘em up!
Great Place for a Holiday Party!
SUSSEX MOTORSPORTS Located on Rte 23 in Sussex NJ Across from the A&P Shopping Plaza
973-875-3640 •
Open Tuesday thru Saturday
At Th
e
Barnsider Restaurant
A DAY TRIPPER’S DREAM
Cozy Bar Comfortable Tables Great Burgers Hearty Steak Chicken & Shrimp
OPEN 11AM • TUES-SUN
SUGAR LOAF
Village of Craftsmen 1372 Kings Highway Sugar Loaf, NY
(845) 469-9810
DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
Page 44
H O L I D AY G I F T I D E A S MACHINEARTMOTO MUDSLING FOR R1200GS AND ADVENTURE
Having trouble keeping the rear shock and back area of your 1200GS clean after a hearty dual sport ride? MachineartMoto announces the MudSling, an inner rear fender for the BMW R1200GS and Adventure. MudSling helps keep the rear of the bike clean by limiting mud, water and rock kickback from the rear tire into the shock, battery area, and base of the swing arm. It fits all GS models from 20042009, including models with ESA. For off-road and street riding alike, the lack of an inner fender on stock GS’s increases clean-up maintenance after a messy ride and causes marring of exposed surfaces over time. MudSling solves the problem by fitting in between the rear tire and shock to block flying debris. If an expensive aftermarket shock has been installed or the ESA option selected, the fender will keep it free of muck and dings. It also helps reduce splash out onto side cases and riders’ legs. MudSling mounts securely with two T25 screws that fasten the existing fender liner to the frame. Four zip ties fasten the sides to the frame rails for a tight fit. It is designed with plenty of clearance for knobby tires and fatter springs on aftermarket shocks. The product is pressure-formed in 4mm high impact ABS plastic with a slightly textured black satin finish. MudSling is designed to not only function, but to look good as well, even though it is mostly out of sight after installation. The retail price is $159. MachineartMoto products are available at: www.machineartmoto.com
PIRATE’S LAIR BACKREST
FOR THE
YAMAHA FJR1300
FINANCE YOUR BIKE, NOT YOUR LEATHERS.
MOTORCYCLE CLOTHING FOR
THE BIKER COMMUNITY
JACKETS • VESTS • CHAPS DOT/ NOV ELTY H EL ME T S TRAVEL BAGS • BOOTS • GLOVES RIDING GLASSES • ACCESSORIES
While Pirates’ Lair is predominantly known for being specialists in the BMW K12 series motorcycles, they also produce a line of backrests for the ST1300 Honda, Suzuki VStrom, and a variety of BMW’s including the R1200GS, R1200RT, and K1200RS. We just got word that they have yet another “Stealth” backrest on the market, this one for the 2006-2009 Yamaha FJR1300.
WWW.RENEGADECLASSICSMIDDLETOWN.COM
HOLIDAY SPECIALS UP TO 50% OFF SELECT ITEMS GREAT Jackets, Chaps, Boots, 3/4 and Full Face Helmets, SELECTION Leather Overpants, Venture Pants, Schampa OF: Cold Weather Gear and Heated Vests and Gloves
22 COUNTY ROUTE 78 MIDDLETOWN, NY 10940 (IN THE PATTON’S AUTO BODY BLDG.)
845-956-2200
MAJOR CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED • GIFT CERTIFICATES AVAILABLE CHECK WEBSITE FOR STORE HOURS
WFO
inc.
Touring & Sport Accessories
Luggage • Jackets • Pants • Boots • Rain Gear • Tools • Exhausts • Tires Sprockets • Chains • Bar Risers • Brakes • Lines • Ramps • Lifts • OEM Parts
Sport ~ Touring ~ Cruiser
• Large Selection of Premium Helmets • Tires - Mounted and Balanced • Track and Race Bike Set-Up • Great Service and Reasonable Prices Suspensions by CTR Suspension Technology 188 Halsey Road (Rte. 626) • Newton NJ 07860 • www.wforacing.net Ph: 973-579-5103 • Email: wfomotosports@hotmail.com • Fax: 973-579-1806
TRACK DAY HEADQUARTERS • NESBA Dealer
The all stainless steel stealth bracket with its patented design bolts directly to the rear factory FJR rack via three furnished bolts and blends perfectly with the lines of the bike. Production versions are covered with a black Rhino coating (the same rubberized spray material seen in pick-up truck beds) that is visually unobtrusive no matter what color your bike is and also serves to protect the finish of the factory rack. The backrest’s polished stainless steel slide bar slides on and off the bike in under 10 seconds and - without tools. Installation of the FJR13 Stealth rack is cavemaneasy, taking all of 5 minutes using standard tools. Tamper-proof mounting screws are included to deter walk-by thieving bastages. The cover material matches the black FJR factory seat perfectly making the package look 100% factory once installed. Soft T-Bag luggage is also available for this and all the excellent other Stealth backrests. Pirates Lair can be reached at 828-628-7093 EST or at www.PiratesLair.net.
Rider Education Of New Jersey
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
Beginner Course • $250.00 Experienced Course • $90.00
Inc.
The Program with the Most Experience in Motorcycle Training in NJ
Call Today for Information and Schedule
1-800-8WE-RIDE Register Online at
www.renj.com MSF & NJ Approved DMV Road Test Waived* (Certain Restriction Apply)
*Rider Education of New Jersey, Inc. has been approved by the Motor Vehicle Commission to offer the New Jersey Motorcycle Safety Education Course.
Page 45
AUTO SCHOOL INC. BEGINNER AND ADVANCED COURSES
WITH THREE LOCATIONS: • NASSAU COLISEUM • S.U.N.Y. FARMINGDALE
TEACHING MOTORCYCLISTS SINCE 1966
• BROOKHAVEN LAB
MOTORCYCLE SAFETY FOUNDATION CERTIFIED SINCE 1982
INTRODUCTORY COURSES WITH USE OF SIMULATOR (3 HOURS) CONDUCTED ALL YEAR ROUND - LIMITED ENROLLMENT
CONSIDERING LEARNING HOW TO RIDE A MOTORCYCLE? JOIN TRAMA’S AUTO SCHOOL TO GET A HEAD START! WE OFFER A GREAT VARIETY OF COURSES
GET YOUR MOTORCYCLE LICENSE Successful Completion of the MSF Beginner Rider Course will get your motorcycle license CALL: 212-874-6333 • 718-847-2015 • 516-541-1119 TRAMA’S AUTO SCHOOL • 87-15 JAMAICA AVE • WOODHAVEN NY
WWW.TRAMAS.COM
GIVE THE GIFT OF KNOWLEDGE. MSF RIDING COURSES MAKE GREAT STOCKING STUFFERS.
RISING WOLF GARAGE NYC EXCLUSIVE MOTORCYCLE PARKING FACILITY W e p r o v i d e a f r i e n d l y, c l e a n a n d s e c u r e environment for the motorcycle enthusiast Service Area Personal Storage Air Compressor Battery Charging
Monthly Parking Long & Short Term 24 Hour Access Video Surveillance
By Appointment Only East Village NYC Ph: 212 475 5858 Fx: 212 505 5205
risingwolfgarage@aol.com
DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
Page 46
MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE
ALL THAT GOOD STUFF
MOTORCYCLE TRAILERS DAYTONA, MYRTLE BEACH, STURGIS AND BEYOND SALES RENTALS
BARN TRAILERS 718-426-7039
57-05 BROADWAY • WOODSIDE NY 11377
(OFF THE BQE & LIE)
WWW.MICATECH.NET • 1.888.464.6494 Premium Handbuilt Side Loading Aluminum Luggage
Unique Mounting System Exceptional Quality Outstanding Customer Service
Now Available for BMW: R1100GS • R1150GS • R1200GS R1150GS Adventure R1200GS Adventure We Make a Strong Case for Adventure Touring
If you didn’t like cool stuff, you wouldn’t be reading this magazine. Here’s something you’re going to love.
TORQ-IT Screwdriver/Speed Wrench/ Palm Ratchet All In One Tool Variable Speeds Over 600RPM Low Profile, with an “Ergo” Grip and a Non-Slip Design Accepts All 3/8” and 1/4” Sockets and Extensions
BASIC SET: $19.95 • DELUXE SET: $29.95 • ACCESORY SET: $9.95
TORQ-IT PRODUCTS, INC. 1701 Manor Road • Havertown PA 19083 Tel: 1.888.876.9555 • Visit Our New Website: WWW.TORQ-IT.COM
EAST COAST TRAILERS HONESDALE PA
6’ x 12’ - $2,780 • 72” Tall • 3500 lbs. EZ lub drop axle • side door • Spring-assisted rear ramp door • 24’ stone guard • 14” tires • 14” roof vent • 2 Lights + Wall Switch • Steel-tubing frame undercoated • Rear stabilizing jacks
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
Page 47
MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE
ALL THAT GOOD STUFF
Sussex Hills Ltd.
Come Ride the Dragon Deals Gap Motorcycle Motel & Restaurant
Deals Gap 318 Curves in 11 Miles
For All Your Harley-Davidson Needs
www.dealsgap.com
Specializing in Motorcycle Repair, Parts & Supplies
Visit Us Online @
Cycle Tires Mounted & Balanced • Batteries & Hard Parts
www.sporttouringusa.com
Dynojet 250 Dyno available for testing
Sport Touring Accessories 800.889.5550 H.C. 72 Box 1 • Tapoco North Carolina 28771
Proprietor Norman Gross • Since 1976
Our Reputation Speaks for Itself 973-875-2048 946 Rte. 23 South, Sussex NJ 07461 3 miles north of Sussex Borough
YORK 23 TRAILERS TRUCK ACCESSORIES & CAPS 3-Rail Bike Trailers Toy Hauler Trailers with or without Living Quarters Full Service and Parts Facility
We are now a Cap Dealer
Large Selection of Open and Enclosed Trailers
SALES • SERVICE STRAPS • D RING TIE DOWNS TRUCK CAPS ACCESSORIES SOFT TOUCH WHEEL CHOCKS TRAILER HITCHES
973-492-0110 WWW.YORKTRAILER.COM
1212 Route 23 North • Butler, NJ 07405
Get BACKROADS delivered to your home EVERY MONTH! Just fill out the simple form and mail it along with your check (gotta pay the Postman): BACKROADS • POB 317 • BRANCHVILLE NJ 07826 First Class Postage $40/12 issues • Third Class Postage $35/12 issues
NAME ______________________________________________________
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Give a Year of Reading Pleasure for the price of a sweater they won’t wear. Don’t Miss an Issue! Mail your Subscription TODAY!
SUBSCRIPTION FORM
For Gift Subscriptions please include name of recipient and giver. We’ll send a gift notice with your
DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
Page 48
MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE
SKYLAND TRIKES LLC ph
ALL THAT GOOD STUFF
AUTHORIZED MOTOR TRIKE DEALER
Make Great Holiday Gifts
908.876.3745 • fax 908.876.3724
335 Fairmount Rd • Long Valley NJ 07853 email skylandtrikes@comcast.net contact Alex Eardley
HELMET-HOLDER.COM Treat Your Helmet Like a Work of Art
GenMar HANDLEBAR RISERS
KAWASAKI • HONDA • YAMAHA • SUZUKI • TRIUMPH • MOTO GUZZI • ETC Raise your handlebars for a more comfortable ride and still retain stock look.
From $59.95 to $139.95 Order Toll Free (877) 471-1515 Info and Fax (505) 743-2243 • www.zianet/GenMar
Gen Mar Mfg. Inc. • 110 1st Street • HC1 Box 35 • Arrey, NM 87930
THE BEST WURST
www.SchneidersRestaurant.info
The leaves may be gone but the Chatterbox goes Year Round 2 Wheels or 4 - We’re here to Serve you Great Food Chatterbox Gift Cards make Perfect Holiday Presents. Come in for a bite and pick some up today!
AT THE
JERSEY SHORE
Located at Ross’ Corners • Rtes 206/15 • Augusta NJ • 973-300-2300
www.chatterboxdrivein.com
Casual Dining Lunch and Dinner Tues-Sat from 11am Year Round Two-wheels or Four,
Your table is ready at the Jersey Shore!
Spend the Holidays with Mom at Schneider’s
‘50s-Style Drive-In Restaurant Full and Varied Menu Room for the Whole Gang
801 MAIN STREET (ROUTE 71) AVON-BY-THE-SEA (MONMOUTH COUNTY), NJ
732-775-1265
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
H OLIDAY G IFT I DEA
Page 49
OLYMPIA GT AIR ALL SEASONS TRANSITION JACKET
I really like my Olympia AST Jacket and I feel the same way about my Olympia Airglide Jacket. But they are two different garments and I wear them for different reasons. If it is anywhere above 85° I’m in the Airglide. When it’s cooler I prefer the AST - which stand for All Season Touring. The Airglide has superior mesh ventilation, and the AST has great venting as well, but not nearly as flowing as the Airglide. So for the past few years I went about happily choosing my gear like Mr. Phelps choosing his team at the beginning of each Mission Impossible, depending on the weather. But that might now come to an end as OMS owners Kevin and Karilea Rhea never stop looking for and creating better riding gear. Enter to the fray the GT Air All Seasons Transition Jacket. Think of it as a hybrid of the AST and the Airglide - ‘cause’ that is just what it is. The GT Air All Seasons Transition Jacket is created with an Outer shell constructed of 500 and 2000 denier Dupont Cordura with seven good-sized storage pockets. To add to the rugged construction the GT utilizes removable CE approved Motion Flex armor at elbows and shoulders, with an articulated Motion Flex armor back protector. A jacket can be as tough as the Incredible Hulk but it doesn’t help if it is a monster to wear. Like all Olympia jackets we have used for the past number of year we found the GT Air All Seasons Transition Jacket to be one of the most comfortable pieces of gear you can buy, with custom fit detailing at collar, cuffs, elbows and waist and a comfort neoprene collar insert. When it gets wets you have no worries as the GT uses a Two Stage Waterproof Liner Jacket - a brawny wind and waterproof rip stop nylon shell with removable Dupont Thermolite insulation, rib collar, two water proof pockets and interior cell phone pocket and, when it gets dark, 3M Scotchlite(r) reflective piping at front, sides and back make the GT Air All Seasons Transition Jacket very bright, even for the most inattentive and near sighted driver. All this is good, but the GT has something else, which raises it above even other Olympia jackets and that is its MVS Mega Vent Panel System that you’ll find in both front and back. When it’s cooler out you have as much wind protection as the old AST Jacket, but when it gets warm you easily roll down the wide panels, which tuck out of the way and are hidden and you have the most serious kind of free flowing air coming through the cool mesh airflow lining, keeping you protected from the stifling heat, while still offering superior protection. On the arms you will find extended length 12” arm vents, adding to the cool air flowing around the torso. If the weather turns or rain is heading in it takes just seconds to roll and zip the panels back up and you are back on the road again. Can you say perfect? I know I can. You can find the GT Air All Seasons Transition Jacket in three different colors silver/pewter, neon yellow/pewter and neon red/pewter at your better dealers and shops that carry Olympia Moto Sports gear or on the web at www.olympiamotosports.com. The jacket lists for $269.99, in sizes S - 4XL. For the money we think the GT Air All Seasons Transition Jacket is one of the best and most versatile jacket on the market. Review: Brian Rathjen
From Pretoria to a safari in Kruger Park and then down along the coast of the India Ocean, we’ll see the very best of Africa’s southernmost nation.
Africa is calling, are you going to answer?
February 21st thru March 3rd, 2009
And, for you riders who want to go to the “Ends of the Earth” the tour will ride to Cape Augulus, the southernmost point of the Dark Continent before finishing off with a few days in Cape Town, the jewel of South Africa.
It sound cliché but this really is a trip of a lifetime. Make sure to do it in yours. If not now, when?
Join Backroads on a
16-day motorcycle tour of South Africa with SAMA Tours
Tour prices start at approximately $3,000 depending on your choice of motorcycle and remember, the US dollar stands high above the South African Rand, making South Africa one of the least expensive places to tour in the world.
Don’t be left behind – be part of the adventure. For details, log onto www.samatours.co.za or email us at editor@backroadsusa.com. We hope to lift a glass of Amarulo with you as the sun sets behind the elephants.
A
fter 28 years of using the same basic frame architecture, Harley-Davidson decided it was time to debut a new chassis to continue their dominance of the touring segment. “This was the biggest undertaking since the creation of the platform,” said Ben Wright, 2009 Touring Project Lead and Platform Staff Engineer. The project started as far back as ‘02 with preliminary research, and then really got boiling when Harley conducted faceto-face interviews with attendees that collectively rode millions of miles to H-D’s 100th anniversary in 2003. Harley staff would interact with customers at various shows and events, going so far as to have riders weigh their loaded touring sleds on a scale to see how much the touring bikes were carrying. According to Wright it wasn’t unusual to have a customer avoid the scales out of fear of how far past GVWR they had gone. It was becoming clear to Harley that a more robust frame was needed. No longer just a collection of hand-welded steel tubes, the new frame, as well as what is commonly referred to on most other motorcycles as the subframe, is now made from various investment cast, forged and stamped pieces. An unforeseen advantage to having the tail (sub) frame bolt on is the lessening of the likelihood that a whole bike will be totaled by insurance companies. Wright informed us that only recently a test unit or two were able to be snatched from the clutches of total waste, as the tail frame could simply be unbolted and replaced with a new piece, putting the bike back in action. And in a victory for new tech, total frame parts count has been reduced to 40 pieces versus the 90 bits that made up the previous frame. Without going into specifics, Harley engineering staff touted increased torsional stiffness but not necessarily increased lateral rigidity. Carrying the Twin Cam 96 V-Twin powerplant in the new frame are new vibe-isolating engine mounts. Ditching the tri-mount system on the old chassis, the new system now uses two mounts in front instead of one. “This gives us a lot of control of the powertrain within the frame, helps us reduce sidle shake and is another key element in the tooling of the chassis,” explained Wright. New dimensions include a moderately increased trail figure and a 0.5-inch growth of the wheelbase gained in the new swingarm that’s now wider and stiffer than the previous swinger. New triple clamps hold a front suspension retuned for improved ride quality; the air-suspended shocks also have been recalibrated for better handling and ride comfort. DECEMBER 2008 • BACKROADS
Page 50
20 2009 09 H HAR ARLE LEYY-D -DAV AVID IDSO SON N FL FL M MOD ODEL ELSS
THE BACKBONE OF HA RL
RLEY
TOURING
Words: Pete Brissette • Image s: Tom Riles, Kevin Wing
You may not be able to find your new BMW motorcycle here anymore, but we can make sure it runs a good long time.
Touch of Class M OTO R CYC L E S
Stumpy’s YA M A H A Your Toy Store at the Shore
YAMA-HOTLINE • 800-924-8371 1207 Route 35 South • Neptune, NJ • 732-776-5514 • www.stumpys.com
Touch of Class Motorcycles still services all models of BMW motorcycles.
With decades of experience, Touch of Class knows BMWs inside and out, and has an impeccable service reputation. When it comes time for service or that unforeseen repair, bring your BMW to Touch of Class you’ll realize why we’ve chosen that name.
Touch of Class M OTO R CYC L E S
333 Morris Street Phillipsburg, NJ 908.454.8886 touchofclasscycles.com
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
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Keeping the new frame rolling smooth is a 17-inch wheel up front that is increased from 16 inches; the Road King Classic retains a 16-inch front hoop. The rear wheel is still a 16 on all bikes but is now 5 inches wide, and the “rear compensator” (read: cush drive) is now integrated into the hub rather than being a bolt-on application and carries a 68-tooth sprocket, up 2 teeth from last year. Five of the seven touring models also get new, bombproof-looking 28-spoke cast-aluminum wheels. Dunlop went to great lengths to craft a new multi-compound tire specifically for the FL platform. The 180/65-16 D407 Multi-Tread rear tire (found on all bikes) has tread life reportedly increased 27% thanks to the harder center compound developed with the bike’s higher load capacity in mind, while the softer side compound allows riders to confidently access the new chassis’ increased lean angle. Form follows function, as the saying goes, and in this instance a wider rear fender sporting a simplified and lower license plate assembly with LED lighting (on FLHR, FLGT, FLHX and FLTR models only) covers the widened rear wheel/tire. An increased load capacity of 5 pounds in each of the saddle bags and the Tour Pak on models so equipped comes courtesy of new support racks for said saddle bags and Pak. Finally, though nothing has fundamentally changed with the engine, a re-routed left-side exhaust header pipe now snakes under the bike for improved rider comfort via a reduction in exhaust heat. The head pipes are now a single-piece construction and thereby eliminate unnecessary welds that can, over time, be weak spots for potential exhaust leaks. Further protecting rider and passenger from the miserable heat wafting up from the engine is what Harley calls its Rear Cylinder Cut-Out system. EITMS (Engine Idle Temperature Management System) will calculate a myriad of data and determine when to stop fueling to the rear cylinder with the net affect being a cooler engine when you’re jammed up and sitting idly in rush hour traffic. This system, known colloquially as “parade mode” was previously available as a mid-year 2008 retro-fit to address TC96 heat issues on FLs. For 2009, all FL (touring) models will now allow this feature to be rider activated. In simple terms, when at a stop with the engine idling, the rider can roll the twistgrip forward for a duration of 5 seconds at which time the cruise control activation light will indicate that RARCC (Rider-Activated Rear Cylinder Cut-Out) has been de-activated or activated. Phew! Whole lotta changes happening to the basic elements of the touring bikes. After sidling up to an attractive blue and silver two-tone Ultra Classic Electra Glide in order to enjoy the pastoral beauty of grape-a-licious Sonoma County, CA, I can happily report that all of the effort put into the new touring frame was worth it. Gone is the disconcerting “seeking” feeling the front-end on previous rigs would exhibit when rolling the Super Slab. Wonderfully absent too is the eye-popping hinge-in-the-middle-of-the-frame sensation many of the topheavy touring beasts gave when trying to maneuver at slower speeds and in tight, parking-lot-like environs. Bending the big bike through fast-paced sweepers revealed a distinct lack of flex and wallow commonly experienced on the previous chassis. In addition to much improved handling is the reported increase in gross vehicle weight rating (up by 100 lbs). (Continued on next page)
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Yes, this new, beefy two-piece kit is a boon for the FL platform. The only thing we’re left to do is badger the Milwaukee-based bike maker with the question, “Why’d ya wait so long? (sniff sniff)”
HARLEY TOURING GROWS
A
THIRD WHEEL
NEW 2009 HARLEY-DAVIDSON TRI GLIDE ULTRA CLASSIC
In case anyone was wondering, this Ultra Classic-based trike isn’t a kit trike, but the real deal from Harley. The great thing, according to H-D staff, about the new touring frame is that it allows flexibility in various uses. Case in point is the Tri Glide. The frame has been strengthened for the additional weight inherent in a trike, and a steering damper was added. Otherwise, it has “all the features of an Ultra Classic,” according to Jim Hofmann, Director of Core Motorcycle Product Planning.
H OLIDAY G IFT I DEAS
HIS AND HERS HARLEY GEAR THAT WORKS Built with the road in mind, this mid-weight leather jacket truly earns the Harley-Davidson Bar & Shield across its chest and back. Featuring front, shoulder and back vertical vents, as well as a removable hooded vest that can be worn separately, the Camaraderie jacket virtually has its own climate-control system. This jacket’s seven pockets can stock almost anything. They include two zippered hand-warmer pockets, two zippered chest pockets, two snap chest pockets and one zippered inside pocket. The removable vest also has two snap hand-warmer pockets. The pockets at shoulders and elbows fit Harley-Davidson FXRG(r) body armor. The fit of this jacket can make it seem tailor-made. There’s a snap-tab mandarin collar, fixed poly-mesh lining, two-way zippered front, slightly pre-curved sleeves with adjustable snap cuffs and adjustable snap tabs at the jacket waist. Even the vest has a pull cord at the waist. It is also fitted with Harley-Davidson custom hardware. Retailing for $425 - $465, it comes in a wide array of sizes.
FOR HIM - CAMARADERIE 3-IN-1 LEATHER JACKET
You have to feel it to believe it. One word describes this jacket: soft. The polyester faux shearling jacket feels like a million bucks, but without the price tag. This super-soft and cozy jacket is cut slightly longer, which adds to the comfort and superb fit. It features a zippered front, rolled collar, adjustable rolled cuff, custom hardware and two hand-warmer pockets. Embroidery on the left pocket complements the large embroidery on the back. Available in black and Purple Plumeria in sizes XS-S-ML-XL and retailing for $145 $155. Both jackets may be found at your local Harley-Davidson dealer and make excellent holiday gifts.
FOR HER - SENSATION FAUX SHEARLING JACKET
This bike isn’t a servicar reborn but a whole new unit. It sports triple clamps unique to the Tri Glide and more relaxed steering geometry. Additionally, the large box at the rear has 4.3 cubic-feet of storage with a weight capacity of 50 lbs. Both rear fenders can be removed independent of the rest of the bodywork in the event of a bang up, and the fender brake lights also function as turn signals. The 2009 Tri Glide Ultra Classic retails for $29,999. The electric reverse option is available for an additional $1,195.
SPRING BREAK 2 0 0 9
May 15-18 (Three nights)
J
oin Backroads on our 11th Annual Spring Break Rally; this time up in the quaint town of Hancock, New York, right along the scenic Upper Delaware River. Just a few hours ride from New York City, this region has possibilities galore. The roadways of the Poconos, the Catskills, the Finger Lakes are all within reach and all an excellent choice. The Hancock Hotel is a fantastic new hotel built in the style of the turn of the century. It has its own Fannie’s Café, The Maple Room restaurant and Honest Eddie’s Tap Room. Rooms are extremely limited at the Hancock House and will go quickly so book your room today and we’ll see you in the Spring for the best Spring Break yet! To book your room, please call Judy at 607-637-7100 and ask for the Backroads Group. You can visit the hotel’s website at www.newhancockhouse.com
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
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GIVE
THE
GIFT
The SCALA RIDER® Q2™ MULTISET retail box includes two readyto-use, enhanced SCALA RIDER® Q2™ wireless headsets for hands-free and safe bike-to-bike communication (up to 500m/1640ft) as well as for hands-free conversations when paired with mobile phones.
The Q2 MULTISET was created with the safety, convenience and enjoyment of motorcyclists in mind. The headsets come pre-paired so that riders can instantly begin communicating with each other. For added entertainment, an MP3 jack is included in both headsets which allow each rider to connect their personal MP3 player to the unit so they can each enjoy their own music. Incoming intercom messages and mobile phone calls automatically override the MP3 music so hands never have to leave the handlebars. An extra large, wind-resistant 195 mm microphone has also been included to greatly enhance sound quality.
OF
COMMUNICATION
The two enhanced SCALA RIDER® Q2™ headsets featured in the MULTISET retail box employ Multiple Device Connection (MDC) technology, with added features that allow bikers to connect wirelessly by Bluetooth(r) to several audio sources including the following: in-helmet voice instructions from a GPS unit, mobile phone conversations with third parties and intercom conversations with passengers and with other bikers. The headsets also feature high-quality FM radio transmissions from the embedded FM radio. Whether you are riding your motorcycle with a friend on another motorcycle or riding with a passenger, the SCALA RIDER® Q2™. MULTISET is a great way to communicate with another biker while on the road. The SCALA RIDER® Q2™ MULTISET headsets are also fully backward-compatible with the entire line of earlier SCALA RIDER® models. In addition to MDC technology and Bike-to-Bike intercom communications, the MULTISET pair offers the same high-quality performance as in previous SCALA RIDER® models, including wind impact reduction, voice controlled receipt and rejection of incoming calls, automatic volume adjustment according to driving speed and ambient noise, full rain and snow protection and more. The new SCALA RIDER® Q2™ MULTISET is now available through select distributors, retail outlets, specialty motorcycle shops, and directly from the Cardo Systems web site at www.cardosystems.com with a suggested retail price of $395.95. Share the ride with your passenger or riding partner with this great communication system. What riding buddy wouldn’t want to unwrap this great present during the holidays?
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The North American International Motorcycle SUPERSHOW returns to Toronto right after New Year’s, January 2nd - 4th, 2009. North America’s largest and most comprehensive motorcycle show, presented by Mantha Insurance, has something for every type of rider in its seven themed halls housing all aspects of motorcycling. Hall 1 and 2, sponsored by Mill St. Brewery, are designated the Touring & Cruiser Halls, featuring the expanded Road Riders Marketplace, with vendors selling everything from helmets and riding gear for all members of the family to GPS systems and touring luggage. This area is also the meeting place for touring and cruiser enthusiasts, featuring displays from riding clubs and associations and the Touring & Cruiser Stage with ongoing seminars, travel presentations and the MAX Awards for Riders. The main Industry Showcase Halls are found in Hall 3 and 3A, focusing on over 20 manufacturers’ brands of the new 2009 motorcycles. The feature marque of this year’s show is the 2009 Harley-Davidson line-up in the Jacox Harley-Davidson and Davies Harley-Davidson dealer display. Hall 3 features new product unveilings and all the latest aftermarket products. New riders will appreciate the readily available information from Rider Training Schools, insurance representatives, and dealer advice on all aspects of getting into motorcycling including licencing, safety gear, and basic motorcycle maintenance. The Scooter marketplace is an expanding area in the Show. A big feature of Hall 3A is the Used Bike Market sponsored by the Bike, Boat & RV Trader. As the main entrance to the SUPERSHOW, Hall 3 is a great place to start your tour.
Town & Country Cycle Center 115 Route 23N • Hamburg NJ 973-875-2111 • www.townandcountrycyclecenter.com Serving the motorcycling community for 23 years
Hall 4 is the Racing and Performance Hall, sponsored by Royal Distributing, with all things related to sport bikes and off-road bikes and the people who ride or race them. With features such as the Racers Stage, MX ‘Stars of the Tomorrow’ display; racing clubs, associations and racetracks; the MAX Awards for Racers; and Racer interview and autograph sessions, Hall 4 will make for an exciting weekend for race fans or riders shopping for high performance equipment. The Vintage and Classic Hall 4A features the very popular ‘Century of Motorcycles’ display. Each year fifty motorcycles are hand-picked to get the red carpet treatment as they represent the evolution of the motorcycle over the past 100 years. Also in Hall 4A are vintage and marque clubs, individual showbikes, vendors specializing in antique motorcycle parts and services, and the newest feature for Hall 4A is the popular Vintage and Classic Used Bike Market sponsored by the Bike, Boat & RV Trader. Hall 5, the Chopper and Custom Bike Hall, sponsored by J & P Cycles, features custom bikes from all over North America competing for the $50,000 jackpot and top prizes in the Canada Cup Championships. In addition to Canada’s largest display of custom bikes, chopper fans will find custom painters and suppliers of specialty parts. A busy new area is the Choppers & Customs Used Bike Market sponsored by the Bike, Boat & RV Trader. This motorcycle shopping extravaganza has earned the SUPERSHOW the nickname of ‘The Big One by the Airport’, because of its ideal location and free parking at the International Centre (6900 Airport Road). Established in 1976, the 425,000 square feet SUPERSHOW is North America’s largest consumer motorcycle show. Produced by Bar Hodgson Productions Ltd, the SUPERSHOW’s dedicated to presenting the finest the motorcycle industry has to offer for every type of motorcycle enthusiast, in Seven Halls of the International Centre. Show Dates: Friday, January 2nd - Sunday, January 4th, 2009 Location: International Centre, 6900 Airport Road, Mississauga Hours: Friday & Saturday: 10am - 10pm • Sunday: 10am - 6pm Parking: Free parking for more than 7,000 vehicles General Info: (905) 655-5403 or info@supershowevents.com Website: www.supershowevents.com
FW SPEER YAMAHA 7 MAIN AVENUE • PASSAIC, NJ
www.speeryamaha.com • 973-778-6256 Your One Stop Shop for the Holidays We have the right bike for every size Full Accessory and Parts department for those last minute gift ideas
Gold Certified
FIVE STAR CERTIFIED
BACKROADS • DECEMBER 2008
U PCOMING E VENTS
CYCLE WORLD INTERNATIONAL MOTORCYCLE SHOW JANUARY 16-18, 2009
WHAT: Dreaming about a hot new ride or just looking for something fun to do? Check out the latest sportbikes, dirt bikes, dual sports, cruisers, scooters, ATVs and more at the Cycle World International Motorcycle Show® presented by Toyota, part of a 13-city nationwide series. From bikes that get more than 50 miles per gallon to the all-electric, zero emission Vectrix scooter, showgoers can learn about the latest fuel-efficient options on two and three wheels. This motorcycle extravaganza is also the perfect place for new riders to immerse themselves in bike culture and talk to experts about getting started. Additionally, the show will be packed with high-energy entertainment including high-flying motorcycle action, eye-popping customs, interactive activities for the entire family and more. WHEN: Friday, January 16, Noon - 9 p.m. Saturday, January 17, 9 a.m. - 9 p.m. • Sunday, January 18, 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. WHERE: Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, 655 West 34th Street, NY WHO: Representatives from more than 20 manufacturers will be on site to answer questions and provide information on the latest motorcycles. For the 16th consecutive year, Cycle World, the world’s largest motorcycle magazine, returns as the title sponsor for the series with Toyota returning as presenting sponsor. Progressive Motorcycle Insurance is once again an official product sponsor. The Cycle World International Motorcycle Shows® presented by Toyota is produced by Advanstar Communications, the leading provider of integrated media solutions to the automotive aftermarket, offroad and powersports industries. TICKETS: Admission is $17 for adults and $6 for children. Children 5 and under are admitted free. Advance tickets are available on the Web at www.motorcycleshows.com Tickets for the show would make an excellent stocking stuffer for the motorcyclist, or would-be rider, that you know.
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FIRST GEAR TPG RAINIER JACKET
Last year Shira did an in-depth test of First Gear’s new TPG Gear in a 20-day ride in Patagonia. Now First Gear has released the TPG Rainier Jacket. A totally waterproof and breathable 3/4 length jacket that looks as good as it performs. Built with a 600 denier nylon outer shell, the Rainier has a number of important features such as Kevlar® reinforced Teramid® underlay at shoulders and elbows and a removable, fully-sleeved liner which can function as a stand-alone jacket. For warm weather the jacket features a Max-Flow vent system; 10” intake vents on front, 12” exhaust vents on rear and uses an internal, locking, pull cord and external zipper to customize air flow. In case the bad happens you’re protected with KNOX® CE-approved shoulder and elbow armor. The Rainier has plenty of pocket as you’ll find 2 top front, dry pockets with YKK waterproof zippers; left also has a cell phone pocket, right includes a secondary zippered slash pocket along with 2 lower front, dry pockets with YKK waterproof zippers that also include hidden handwarmer pockets. If that is not enough try an upper right arm pocket, a lower left arm key pocket and a hidden rear pouch. One of the favorite features that Shira loved in her review was the internal, under-helmet, rain hood, which came in most excellently just north of Antarctica. Of course nighttime visibility is helped with reflective trim on front and rear. This is one serious jacket. It is available in Black, Black/Yellow, Red/Black, Black/Grey and Brown/Grey in men’s sizes Small - 4XL; men’s Tall sizes Large - 2XL. Retail Price is $399.95.