February 2017

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W H A T ’ S

I N S I D E

MO NT HLY C O L U M NS Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................4 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................6 POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................8

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

ON THE MARK ....................................................9

Contributors

Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Dr. Seymour O’Life

BACKLASH ........................................................10 INDUSTRY INFOBITES .....................................11

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GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ..............14 BIG CITY GETAWAY .........................................16 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ........................................18

Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 317 Branchville NJ 07826

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MYSTERIOUS AMERICA..................................20

phone

973.948.4176

SHIRA’S INSIDE SCOOP ..................................24

fax

973.948.0823

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE ............................46

email

editor@backroadsusa.com

UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ...................48

online

www.backroadsusa.com

Advertising

973-948-4176

Follow Us

Backroads-Motorcycle-Touring-Magazine

FDNY DREAM BIKE PART II ............................26

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TO THE WILDS OF WEST VIRGINIA ................28

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FE AT U RE S

FIRESIDE READING .........................................40 BACKROADS’ CLASS RALLY ..........................45

PR O DU C T R E V IE W S STEVE MCQUEEN IN LEMANS ......................23 HARLEY AND THE DAVIDSONS......................42 X-LITE X-1004 XCOM HELMET.......................43 BMW’S G310R & R NINET RACER..................44

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2017. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.



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FEBRUARY 2017 • BACKROADS

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN

Wild and Wonderful…. More than once my mother has asked me when Shira and I will be moving to West Virginia. Well, we are happily ensconced and comfortable at Backroads Central here in northwestern New Jersey, but still seem to make our way to the Mountain State of West VA at least a few times each trip around the sun. And with great reason – it has always been a great place to ride and now, with the newer interstates cutting through the state, the heavy truck traffic is off the smaller mountain roadways, leaving them wide open and that much more fun for us. Still, Mom thinks someday we’ll be moving as she is well aware of our love affair with the 35th state - 24th state if the secession of the 11 Southern states were taken into account - that we have ridden and written about so many times in Backroads’ 23 years. West Virginia can find its statehood roots as a direct cause of the American Civil War. Back then it was the backwater part of Virginia and many felt the Allegheny Mountains were just too much of an obstacle to make the region viable and important. The people of western Virginia did not think so as the region possessed geographical, economic, and settlement patterns which have always set it apart from its eastern neighbors, as well as different thought on the oncoming conflict that would soon envelope the nation.

When Virginia opted to secede from the Union in early 1861, leaders primarily from the northwestern region of the state began the process, which eventually led to the creation of the new state of West Virginia on June 20, 1863. Part of the deal for statehood was President Lincoln’s mandate that West Virginia oppose slavery and this was met. So, even though the first real skirmish of the Civil War happened on June 6, 1861 in the West Virginia town of Philippi – the state became and stayed with the Union. They were the only state to separate from a Confederate State during the war and the first state to separate from another since Maine left Massachusetts. The only other state to be formed during the Civil War was Nevada – but until the mob made Vegas nobody cared – it was all about West Virginia back then. They have been doing things their way ever since. Nicknamed The Mountain State with good reason, it is not the biggest in area - ranked 41st and is just 240 miles north to south and 130 miles east to west. But just try to cross those miles in a fast and timely way. It won’t be happening. There is a reason we keep coming back here and it is that this state offers some of the best motorcycle riding east of the Mississippi River. Last year when the state suffered under terrible flooding we felt it at home in New Jersey as we watched on the news, and a few weeks later we made a trek down south and returned later in the year as well. The issue you have in your hands is a result of these trips and the desire to encourage all of you to take a ride down to West Virginia and find out what we have known for years – it is wild and wonderful! This year’s Backroads Spring Break Rally will spend a number of days riding around the Mountain State. If you have never been here this would be a great opportunity to do just that. So grab a cup of coffee, sit back and enjoy this special edition of Backroads – Wild, Wonderful West Virginia!



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FEBRUARY 2017 • BACKROADS

WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL

Where do We go from here? 19 years ago, we decided to try something. We put the word out that Backroads would be holding a ‘rally’ in the Finger Lakes. We would call it the Fall Fiesta and it would be held at the now defunct Chalet Leon, a funky little place that sat on Hector Falls and was run by vegans. How did I know about the vegan part? Because we decided to order some pizza one night and they refused to let us eat it in any of the rooms if it had any meat on it. We knew this was the beginning of a beautiful journey, and it certainly has been. The following year we started up our Spring Break get togethers, the first being at the Catskills Corners Lodge, now a very upscale, hoightytoighty kind of place that would never have the likes of our group. We had so much fun with these two outings, we fit one in during the summer months and dubbed it the Summer Sojourn. While the spring and fall rallies continued annually, the summer one fell by the wayside until 2007 when we gave it another go, renaming it the Summer Squeeze, as we did it mid-week for those who could ‘squeeze’ in a little extra time off. Over the years we have moved from place to place, like drunken locusts. We descend on our chosen hotel, eat their food and partake of their adult beverages and then move on to the next lucky recipient for our hospitality. Our group has grown, with many friendships being forged over the miles and smiles that have been shared. We have sampled venues from North Carolina to Canada and have run the gamut of weather from snow and continuous downpours to blazing heat. We had a spell of real rainouts and one rally – 2003 to be exact – it

rained every single day, so much so that everyone developed this musty odor. When we got back to the office, I designed a t-shirt to commemorate this gray event, soaked every one in water and packed it in a Ziploc bag before shipping them out. When the folks got it, it had that same musty odor that followed us the whole weekend. Good time, kids, good times. There certainly have been places we’ve gone that outshine others, but of all the states that we’ve visited, by far the most enjoyable riding has been in West Virginia. As Mark says in his On The Mark this month, ‘the roads are the stuff of which dreams are made.’ We first took a group to West Virginia back in the spring of 2001, making our way to Charles Town. Since we were staying next to the racetrack, we figured that one evening we would enjoy the entertainment and the folks at the track were nice enough to name the seventh race of the night ‘The Backroads’. I won’t go into details, but let’s just say it didn’t turn out quite the way we would have like. But the riding was stupendous. Our next venture to this great state was a couple of years later and, while the roads were just as gratifying, it was hard to enjoy them fully due to the infernal wetness surrounding us. I remember just as we were crossing the border into Pennsylvania the sun popped out for a brief appearance, just enough to tease. We were certainly redeemed with the last trip to West Virginia in 2015. Not only was the weather absolutely perfect, Brian put together what may have been one of the best rides we’ve ever had on our rallies. To top that all off, I brought some naïve riders to the Trans Allegheny Lunatic Asylum and those brave enough actually took the full tour. Having been there twice before, I had quite enough lunacy for my entire life and cut out, heading to the quaint town of Helvetia for a most excellent German lunch. As you’ll read in these pages, we had a wonderful ride this past year exploring many of the West Virginia state parks and felt it time to bring you back there to enjoy them yourselves. We’ll revisit a couple of places – Canaan Valley which will hopefully be dry this time and Berkeley Spring with its (Continued on Page 10)



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FEBRUARY 2017 • BACKROADS

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD

The oWl in The arai As I’ve aged (a process that I find disturbing but probably better than a sudden cessation of said process), my eyesight has gone a bit south not just in terms of focus, but night vision as well. Glasses have done wonders for the first infirmity, but as to the second the remedy seems a bit more elusive. In my case the falloff on my night vision may even be a family thing as one of my older brothers has noticed his eyes have been worse in the dark as he’s aged, and perhaps our situation may not be too unusual. But seeing at night is more difficult even under the best of circumstances, and one of the easiest (and most effective) ways of combating the problem is, obviously, to throw more light on the situation. These days, thanks to the miracles of LED and other technologies that make lighting appliances brighter, lighter, tougher and dramatically more energy efficient, it’s no big deal to give your ride some lumens second only to the landing lights of an Airbus A380. This is a beautiful thing, and can literally be a lifesaver in rural environments. The downside is those pesky individuals who insist on using the same road you’re on (but traveling in the other direction) and can be blinded by your considerable brilliance.

Tuning your lighting instruments very carefully so they will be kinder to oncoming traffic is a clear necessity, but like all things designed to fix a problem there are often side effects. Motorcycle headlights (with some notable exceptions) are quite susceptible to changes in ride height, like when, oh I don’t know, you add a passenger and a mess of luggage for that trip down south to flee icy roads. Even if you possess a touring rig with adjustable (or self-adjusting) headlight height capability, any auxiliary lighting you have bolted on your frame, chassis, mirrors, fuzzy dice, etc. will need re-aiming under load. Blinding somebody with your awesome luminescence may be a twisted sport (and very appealing to the laser pointer crowd), but it’s stupid as well as really dangerous. If only there was some sort of alternative to solve the Darkness Dilemma. . . Thanks to yet another advancement in camera technology, I think a really interesting solution may be just around the corner. What a coincidence! To be honest, it may be around the corner and down the street a bit, but I think it is in our riding future. Allow me to tell a tale from the auto side; something that happened just the other day in fact. I was the lucky recipient of a Cadillac CT6 press car, and the fleet driver told me that it was equipped with Night Vision. I was surprised, because I recalled a Cadillac I tested years ago that had such an infrared-based system (as well as a few other European makes that used it). As quickly as it appeared, it largely disappeared. But now it’s back, and as an interesting aside it turns out the fleet company that provided the vehicle is also involved with the technology used in these cars and the 2017 CT6 has the latest version. Using a much more sophisticated system, it provides all kinds of useful visual information based on thermal imaging that, while not quite turning night in to day, clearly shows the road and any animals, pedestrians, and other lurking things. In fact, it has software that helps highlight such hazards when detected. What I find most intriguing about this stuff is I can see things marching in the direction of actual feasibility whereas the earlier version was more of an entertaining gadget. The screen appears in the center of the virtual speedometer, which seems to be a good place for it that works well without awkwardly taking your eyes off the road. Naturally, my thoughts after experiencing the New and Improved Night Vision wandered into what a sane application for motorcycles might look like. The concept of better night acuity is such a good idea that if there was a way to put a system in a helmet in a nondistracting way, I think it could be a real revelation. But this is not an easy nut to crack. True, we do have helmets available now that have internal displays, but I’m not a fan of this juju. I’m all about the undistracted, unimpeded view of the road, as it’s always been a lifeand-death necessity that’s becoming more critical with each passing day. Taking into account the normal daytime hazards that also are present after dark, plus the fact that the night is Dark and Full of Terrors, you can see balancing overall road awareness with an integrated visual display is a complicated problem. Image projection technology is advancing at a staggering pace, and it seems that a way of projecting a full-screen image on the inside of a visor might be possible in the near future. This has the potential of making the road and various warm-blooded obstacles nearly as visible as they are in the day, and who knows? They might actually be easier to see using enhanced software. But we’ll have to see. I think there’s so much human/machine interface technology that’s been dumped into moving things of all sorts that we’ve (almost) created as many problems as we’ve solved. Breakthroughs, especially involving enhancing safety, have to be done really carefully, tested to an obnoxious degree and then tested again before being adopted. I don’t think this is being done at the moment, but perhaps things will change. The potential benefits of a working night vision system would be well worth the wait, too.


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2017

ON THE MARK MARK BYERS

i’m FROM There I’m a native West Virginian. If you ask where I’m from, I’ll say, “I live in Maryland, but I’m FROM West Virginia.” Born in Wheeling, as a tot I lived in Moundsville, named for the Indian burial mounds and home of the old State Penitentiary (they give tours - call Dr. O’Life). Then it was Martinsburg, where I learned to ride a Schwinn with a coaster brake. Then, it was Fairmont, in the Northern coal country, where I spent most of my formative years. Finally, I went to school in Morgantown at West Virginia University (NOT “THE University of West Virginia” – we’re not into “The”). It was a great place to grow up. We had neighborhoods, not “associations” and a bicycle got me around until I learned to drive. I learned to ride motorcycles on a Honda Trail 90 in our back yard and the neighbors didn’t complain. We fed their dogs and mowed each other’s lawns and visited across the hedges. I graduated to dual-sport machines and we headed for country roads to get some dirt time. We’d find a slate dump near an old mine and make it a hill climb and no one cared. If we crashed, it was our fault, not the landowner’s. The woods were festooned with trails and as long as you weren’t an ass about it, nobody cared if you were there. People were, and for the most part still are, friendly and laid back like that in West Virginia. Down in the Southern coalfields, where the brilliant Hatfield-McCoy trail system provides outstanding riding for all kinds of offroad recreation, an unlicensed dirt bike or quad outside a local eatery on Main Street doesn’t raise an eyebrow. If you break down, you won’t wait long until someone offers to help, whether on the trail or the highway. In his book, “Blue Highways,” William Least-Heat Moon writes: “I wondered why it’s always those who live on little who are the ones to ask you to dinner.” That’s West Virginians.

Page 9 Speaking of “Blue Highways,” for a motorcyclist, the roads are the stuff of which dreams are made. It costs a lot of money to build roads in the rugged hills, so most of the roads follow streams that meander in delicious, sinuous ways. Sometimes the pavement is a little rough – or disappears altogether and becomes dirt – but like the people, if you use a little sense and take your time, they’ll treat you right. US 33 east of Elkins is great, as is US 50 east of Grafton. US 250 from Monterey, VA all the way up to the Northern Panhandle of West Virginia is a twisty treat. Or just pick a small one that’s going your general direction – it’ll come out somewhere. The roads have a hard life: next to the streams, they’re susceptible to floods that rage down the “hollers” because the water has no place else to go. The same can be said of the people: it’s tough building houses on the side of bluffs, so the towns are mostly along the streams. On 23 June 2016, ten inches of rain fell in as little as 12 hours. I vividly remember one video that showed a burning house being washed downstream. A lot of towns were inundated and 23 people died. I remember stopping my motorcycle in White Sulphur Springs not long after the flood and the Mountaineer Mart was already open after being powerwashed inside and out. The clerk said they had 3 feet of water in the store, but they got the place open again so folks could buy gas and milk and bread and paper towels, LOTS of paper towels. People were stopping, clad in rubber work boots, covered in mud from head to toe, and talking about how they were shoveling mud out of their living rooms with snow shovels. They were helping themselves and they were helping each other. That’s West Virginia too: people get knocked down and they get back up again, dust themselves off, and figure out how to keep going. There’s magic in the mountains. Backroads has been there before, as has the BMW MOA and RA and endless other groups. I’m glad Backroads is going back to West Virginia for their spring rally. I’ll be there, taking in the roads of my youth and the places I rode or canoed or just studied. And even though I had to relocate to find work, and I’m doing pretty well, if you break down, I’ll help you and if you forget your wallet, I’ll feed you and I’ll generally be the best ambassador I can, because I’m FROM there. Always have been. Always will be.


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FEBRUARY 2017 • BACKROADS

BACKLASH Hello, Don’t understand why I’m being coerced into a two-year automatic renewal in order to use Paypal. How come? Later, Norm Norm, No coersion here, it’s just the way PayPal had us set up the account and, for the life of us, we can’t seem to get a human being on the phone to change it. That’s why we set up the Square payment which is much easier to use and won’t strong arm you into two years at a clip. Check it out on our website: www.backroadsusa.com/subscription.html Hi there! I’ve sent in a deposit for the MotoCaribe North Coast tour in January 2017 for my wife and me. I remember reading about your experience with the tour group featured in your February 2016 edition... Could you direct me to a reprint of that article or forward an e-copy? Thank you in advance. PS - I look forward to your magazine every month ... Tom Fleming Tom, It’s on the way, but in the meantime you can read it online here: issuu.com/backroadsmagazine/docs/february2016web We have the last 7 years worth of magazines online just for this purpose. Hohoho, So glad to see Norm in the magazine. One very special man, indeed. Liked seeing the sign for the old hometown, too. Good job! Forgot to tell you guys that the show (NYC) was fun. The space was well utilized this year. Our friends liked the stunt show and I really had fun going from area to area collecting freebies, rather like a treasure hunt. Came out with 2 free t-shirts and a string backpack and of course the calendar we get every year.

TOWN & COUNTRY CYCLE CENTER www.townandcountrycyclecenter.com 115 Route 23N • Hamburg NJ

973-875-2111

Letters to the Editor Checked out the new Rebels, the signage looked like “resel”, what the hell is a resel? The kid in the display said a lot of people didn’t read it as Rebel. They had their own space, way off and away from the main Honda area. Max’s was a large presence and we saw the wonderful mechanic from the CT store, Phil. So-the 4 of us decided that this year’s show was better than they have been in quite some time. Would be interested to hear what you’ve heard about it. What was the popular opinion off or on the street? One more thing (I’ve had mucho java today, can you tell?) there is a whole winter wonderland to motorcycling. We go to the winter series of mud and snow scrambles at Square Deal Riders if it’s not 0 or so. It’s really fun when it’s more mud and the bikes wind up with about 40 pounds of it stuck on. You can’t recognize the riders or the bikes due to the crust. Too much fun! Lake George winter carnival has ice racing on the lake. Electric City out of Schenectady usually handles the ice races on Lake George. EC is a club that has track (flat/dirt) like Square Deal out of Bingo area. Just a really good way to see bikes and my personal face, sniffing the fumes! Happy New Year and Good Night. As Ever, Sindee Lou

We’d love to hear from you. Email letters to editor@backroadsusa.com WhaTchaThinkin’

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healing waters – and try something new at the Stonewall Jackson Resort. I’ve put together a ride featuring ice cream (what a surprise) and salt and I’m sure that Brian or Dr. O’Life will piece together either a historical or hysterical destination. I certainly hope that you’ll join us on this Wild and Wonderful West Virginia Rally. With so many places to explore and new roads to be found, who knows where we’ll go from here. What I do know is that we love having you along for the ride and look forward to sharing more miles and smiles in the years to come.


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2017

I ND U ST RY INFOBITES ECUADOR FREEDOM BIKE RENTAL LAUNCHES ITS SELF-GUIDED “DIRT DELUXE” TOUR Building on over seven years of experience in organizing premium motorcycle tours, Ecuador Freedom Bike Rental announced their latest self-guided, off-road excursion called Dirt Deluxe. The new tour combines exclusive, award-winning luxury accommodations with a tantalizing unpaved route that takes riders into the more remote and obscure areas of Ecuador, giving a glimpse into ways of life that have largely disappeared. The 6-day tour crisscrosses the northern Ecuadorian Andes, a part of the country that still feels enigmatic, subtly inaccessible and not saturated with tourists. It’s an area known for its pristine wildlife refuges, coffee plantations, timeworn colonial buildings and therapeutic hot springs. The recent political settlement in neighboring Colombia allows visitors to safely travel through this exotic region. The new self-guided tour is available from May – February. Customers can depart any day of the week with advanced reservations. The self-guided tour includes an adventure-ready dual-sport motorcycle or 4X4 off-road capable pickup truck, motorcycle saddlebags or luggage, pre-programmed GPS, lunch and dinner each day and a cell phone for 24-hour customer support. Prices start at $1915. For more information: FreedomBikeRental.com

HEAR THE ROAD MOTORCYCLE TOURS 2017 “BEST OF ITALY” TOUR OFFERINGS Hear the Road Motorcycle Tours Italy announces the 2017 Italian motorcycle tour calendar after a very successful 2016. Enrico Grassi, founder and owner of Hear the Road Tours says, “I couldn’t have been happier with our best year of delivering first-class motorcycle tours of Italy.” Tours for 2017 have a range from 8-11 riding days in an effort to suit everyone’s wish to ride the best

scenic Italian roads, visiting destinations like Amalfi Coast, Alps, Dolomites, Tuscany, Chianti, Sardinia, Corsica, and many more. And after the sun has set, there’s plenty of opportunities to experience the culture, the food and wine, the night-life and the passion of this amazing country. You will be lead by Enrico a life-long Italian motorcyclist, excited to share his passion and knowledge of the country he loves and knows so well...riding a motorcycle! So, whether you crave twisting country roads, historical destinations, spectacular views of the mountains and the Mediterranean or 4 Star Hospitality, there is a Tour for you. Hear The Road

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News from the Inside Motorcycle Tours Italy provides motorcycle rental, accommodations and itinerary of about 250 km/160 miles of riding each day. Tours run from April to October, so book soon if you plan on making this riding season the most memorable yet. Hear the Road Tours also caters to those riding enthusiasts that long for a riding tour in Italy but can’t meet the calendared tour dates. Self-Guided, Customized and/or Private Tours are a popular option for individuals or groups of any size. For additional information, contact Bill Kniegge at billk@bluestradatours.com 704-292-8801

TRAVEL, TOURING & ADVENTURE HEADLINES TIMONIUM SHOW FEBRUARY 10, 11 AND 12, 2017 Lois Pryce will be debuting and signing her latest book, Revolutionary Ride – On The Road In Search of The Real Iran, at the Travel, Touring & Adventure Presentation Area, along with a premiere group of world famous adventure riders and touring experts, including Simon & Lisa Thomas, Austin Vince, Steph Jeavons, Ayres Adventures, Beach’s Motorcycle Adventures, MotoDiscovery, Edelweiss Bike Travel and more. Presentations will be geared to cover regional and international tours for both amateur and expert travelers.Touring bikes, clothing, equipment and gear round out the Area.


Page 12 The Motorcycle Aftermarket ‘New Product Technical Presentation Area will be expanded this year…two-wheel enthusiasts will be introduced to the latest products available for all makes of motorcycles by experts from some of the industries’ top brands, such as, Sena Technologies, ZOX Helmets, Vance & Hines, Kuryakyn and Performance Machine… just to name a few. Bike fans can also check out all the newest 2017 models from the world’s top motorcycle manufacturers, plus the huge custom and antique bike competition show and hundreds of exhibits covering everything the motorcycling industry has to offer. The show will be held indoors at the Maryland State Fairgrounds – Timonium, Maryland – Friday and Saturday, February 10th and 11th 10am – 9pm and Sunday, February 12th 10am – 6pm. U.S. Military and First Responders Only $5.00 Admission on Friday! Go to www.cycleshow.net or call 410-561-7323.

FEBRUARY 2017 • BACKROADS and warranty coverage to Victory dealers and owners. “This was an incredibly difficult decision for me, my team and the Polaris Board of Directors,” said Polaris Industries Chairman and CEO Scott Wine. Several factors influenced today’s announcement. Victory has struggled to establish the market share needed to succeed and be profitable. The competitive pressures of a challenging motorcycle market have increased the headwinds for the brand. Victory owners with concerns or questions can call 866-521-1683.

WOMEN’S COALITION OF MOTORCYCLISTS FUNDS TEN NEW & EXPERIENCED RIDER SCHOLARSHIPS TO THE BIG APPLE MOTORCYCLE SCHOOL

Cycle Gear Inc. & the Women’s Coalition of Motorcyclists is dedicated to doubling the VICTORY MOTORCYCLES RIDE INTO THE SUNSET number of female riders by 2020. In pursuit Victory has announced it will immediately begin winding down its Victory of this goal, Cycle Gear Inc. has donated Motorcycles brand and related operations. $10,000 to help fund WCM scholarships to Polaris will assist dealers in liquidating existing inventories while continwomen in need. To implement their gracious uing to supply parts for a period of 10 years, along with providing service donation WCM has partnered with Big Apple Motorcycle School Inc. Founder and President 1269 DOLSONTOWN RD Diane Ortiz to establish MIDDLETOWN NY 10940 a scholarship program for 6 basic rider and 4 experienced rider schol845-343-2552 • WWW.CYCLEMOTIONINC.COM arships, 10 in total to Cycle Motion is your provider of motorcycles, ATVs, scooters, snowmobiles, and utility vehicles by Kawasaki, Suzuki, Polaris, Yamaha and Can-Am. With a large parts department, qualified service technicians and a full shop full of parts and accessories, we're here to meet all your power sport needs. For every rider - on or off road, whether they like doing it in the dirt, carving the twisties, or cruising the backroads, we have their weapon of choice.

promising female motorcyclists to attend The Big Apple Motorcycle School instructed by certified motorcycle trainers. Held in Long Island, New York, the focus is to build confidence in individuals who want to grow as riders. For more information and to apply go to: https://goo.gl/forms/hntT7gm35SvVLNzm2. Submission deadline is Friday, March 31, 2017.

RIDING IN THE ZONE ADVANCED TRAINING STREET AND DUAL SPORT TRAINING COMES TO THE NORTHEAST Riding in the Zone Advanced Rider Training has just released the 2017 schedule for onstreet, dual sport and advanced parking lot training. Riding in the Zone is an advanced rider training school, offering onstreet and dual-sport training tours, as well as advanced parking lot


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2017

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courses in New England. Ken Condon is owner and lead instructor. Condon is a renowned motorcycle author, riding instructor, public speaker and dedicated advocate of motorcycle safety. “Riding a motorcycle skillfully means using known and proven principles for effectively controlling your motorcycle and managing risk,” says Condon. “Riding a motorcycle involves more than simply acquiring a collection of information and skills. It takes a commitment to developing and nurturing the relationship between you, your bike, and the road. Being a thinking motorcyclist means making conscious decisions about risk management – this is one of the biggest reasons why I’ve survived all these years on two wheels,” adds Condon. The Riding in the Zone training tours and parking lot courses help riders develop the physical and mental skills to ride safely, skillfully, and with greater confidence. For more information, visit I-5 Press on the web at ridinginthezone.com and on Facebook.

BILL DRAGOO RETURNS TO VERMONT TO LEAD MOTORCYCLE TRAINING TOUR FOR ADVENTURE RIDERS LEVEL I AUGUST 25-26 AND LEVEL II AUGUST 27-28 MotoVermont is excited to announce the return of Coach and Adventure Journalist, Bill Dragoo as Chief Instructor for the 2017 MotoVermont Off Road Training Tours. Participants will gradually learn off road riding techniques on a private course before embarking upon a trail ride where new skills will be put to use in a real world riding environment. Additional skills will be introduced at stages along the way. Over the 2-day period, riders will encounter rocks, mud, water crossings and an incredible display of nature over Vermont’s amazing back roads. Obstacles will be met and overcome individually and as a group under the tutelage of the expert Vermont Training Tour team. Don’t miss this unique opportunity to experience the trip and training of a lifetime. Now in its 5th year, the Training Tour is a unique experience where attendees are immersed in an extraordinary environment of education and explo-

ration over some of the most exciting and remote trails in New England. Staff to student ratios are kept at 1:5 for plenty of personal attention. Tour orientation begins at Jay Peak Resort early morning August 25th and August 27th for Level I and II respectively. Tour ends around 4:00pm on August 26th and 28th. Deluxe lodging and evening meals are provided by Jay Peak Resort. Breakfast and Lunch will be served up at local hot spots in the area. Cost is $799.00 and includes meals, lodging, training and tour. Rental bikes Available: Honda CRF250L, XR650L - $149/day


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FEBRUARY 2017 • BACKROADS

Hannum’s Harley-Davidson Presents

G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN

tasty places to take your bike

mounTain creek dining room PiPesTem resorT sTaTe Park 3405 PIPESTEM DRIVE, PIPESTEM, WV 25979 304- 466-1800 • WWW.PIPESTEMRESORT.COM There has been more than one occasion that we have said the words “I know this place…” But this time we really mean it – seriously. Deep in the beautiful and verdant mountains of West Virginia there lies a spectacular park called Pipestem. Certainly one of the shining jewels in a state with so many great parks, the 4,050-acre park offers something that no other park in the state does. Perhaps no other experience like this exists in the United States. Dinner at the Mountain Creek Dining Room is a fine dining experience along the bucolic and natural Bluestone River. Sure, there are hundreds of restaurants along hundreds of rivers in the United States, but how many are accessible only by a 3600 foot aerial tramway that carries you deep into the a stunning gorge? Not many I tell ya. We heard about this restaurant and hotel when traveling down in West Virginia doing research for this edition. We had heard what Pipestem State Park offered, but were really taken back at the beauty of the park and all the amenities it offers. We made reservations for the hotel at the bottom of the gorge – a simple affair that was clean, comfortable and not easily reached by motorized vehicle. Yes, you probably could dual-sport in, but it would be rough, long and probably illegal. We chose the easy and equally enjoyable mode of transportation down to the restaurant. The tramway! The tramway runs on a fairly constant basis up and down the gorge, but the tiny cars holds just four people – two with riding gear! Parking our bikes for the night and dragging the gear we needed for the night we made our way to the tram and squeezed into it, opening the windows and the top hatch to let a bit of air

into the car as it was a very hot August afternoon. The ride down offered a spectacular 360° view and gave a birds-eye look at how stunning West Virginia truly is. We couldn’t help laughing that we had stumbled onto this treasure! Checking in we took our room, had showers and walked around the property talking with a few folks fishing in the Bluestone River and catching a glimpse of just a few deer and wildlife coming to the water’s edge for a drink on this steamy day. If there is a West Virginia paradise it could be right here. Since 1971, the Mountain Creek Dining Room has served a variety of dining purposes. In the early days, it was a place to find a home-style meal; since the early 1990s, the restaurant has been known as a gourmet dining room that offers guests a more upscale eating experience in a state park setting. Today, the staff prides itself on providing a top-notch culinary experience for every guest. Known for outstanding meals and preparation, the Mountain Creek Dining Room offers highend American cuisine with an Appalachian flair. We were told the restaurant had an extensive wine list, unique appetizers and entrees and homemade desserts and that they strive to provide a menu that encompasses southern comfort food while maintaining the fine-dining standard. We stopped by the Mountain Creek to see if we needed reservations for the night, only to be told they were booked up. Ruh-roh! Heading back up and out of the gorge was not a viable option. I put on my best diplomatic face and asked if I could speak with the manager. Seeing our predicament he moved some things around and, if we could sit in the next ten minutes, he’d have a table for us. We could and we did and the window-side sitting was a perfect way to


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2017

Page 15 plan to spend a little extra, and, as we found out, you’ll need a reservation. Yes, this hidden restaurant found at the end of a tram-ride at the bottom of a gorge in the mountains of West Virginia can be bit pricey, but we thought the price is worth it for the views alone. Like we said… “We know this place!” The restaurant’s seasonal hours of operation are May through October, 5:30-9:00 p.m. Reservations are recommended and can be made by calling (304) 466-1800.

power down from a long day of exploring the backroads of the Mountain State. The Mountain Creek Dining Room at the bottom of the Bluestone River Gorge is not a normal run of the mill eatery, rather a true fine dining experience. So we expected a slightly higher vibe than we are used to on the road and were not disappointed.

We are always happy when we get to ditch our riding gear and shower before sitting down to tables with white linen on them. The starters of wild mushroom soup and wonderful salad were superb and the place is known for its skillet fried rainbow trout so we went for that – and I am not sure if it was the great chef, the freshest fish or the location, but trout never seemed better or more appropriate. The table next to us ordered the smoked prime rib. It was a perfectly prepared, large cut served over mashed potatoes and topped with arugula. It was too bad we couldn’t have both. The second person at this table ordered the beef filet with crab, mash potatoes and asparagus, which also looked delicious. The Mountain Creek Dining Room is only open from mid-May through October, and only serves dinner. It’s fine dining, so you may want to dress up a little bit and


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FEBRUARY 2017 • BACKROADS

Hanover Powersports Presents

B IG CITY GETAWAY

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind

cass scenic railroad sTaTe Park 242 MAIN STREET, CASS, WV 24927 (304) 456-4300 • WWW.CASSRAILROAD.COM 2-HOUR R/T WHITTAKER STATION TICKETS $37/PP • 4.5-HOUR R/T BALD KNOB TICKETS $59/PP • OVERNIGHT CABOOSE AVAILABLE AT BALD KNOB

Steaming back into Time As the #5 Shay Locomotive rolled under the tall and wide water tank you could almost feel the ground rumble. Scrambling atop the engine the operator pulled down on the rope, swinging the chute and emptying thousands of gallons of water into the boiler tank of the steam locomotive. Black coal smoke belched from the stack and steam screamed out the sides of the black engine. It was amazing power and very, very loud! We had arrived just an hour before, at the Cass station in West Virginia and had been waiting for this moment. We had ridden by here many times and stopped when we have seen one of their locomotives, but today it was our turn not only to get up close to these wonderful and powerful machines, but to go for a ride on one as well. Who doesn’t love a loud, smoky and powerful train? This particular locomotive - the 90 ton #5 – is special. It was first bought in 1905 by the West Virginia Pulp & Paper Co. at Cass. Number 5 is in fact still running on its original rail since it first ran in 1905, making it the oldest engine in continuous service on its original line, and the second oldest Shay in existence. Ephraim Shay was a Michigan logger who looked for a better way to transport cut timber. He first built his own tramway in 1875 and from there he went on to bigger and better means of transporting fallen trees. Two years later the Shay Locomotive was born.

These engines are different that most other locomotive for with these all the wheels are driven and all provide traction and drive. Think of them as the Audi Quattro of the train world. Hundreds were built in the late 1800s and all the way till 1945. Shay locomotives were often known as “sidewinders” or “stemwinders” for their sidemounted drive shafts. Most were built for use in the United States, but many were exported, to about thirty countries, brand new, or after they had reached the end of their usefulness in the US. The last Shay built - #6 - is also operational at Cass.


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2017

All this is here for one reason – the lumber industry. Before our excursion on #5, we took a short tour of the ruins of the old mill. The trains were used to bring lumber down off the mountains and the operations ran on a constant basis. The mill operation was enormous during its heyday 1908 to 1922. It ran two 11-hour shifts six days per week, cutting 125,000 board feet of lumber each shift, an impressive 1.5 million feet of lumber per week. The Cass mill also had drying kilns using 11 miles of steam pipe to dry 360,000 board feet of lumber on each run. At its peak, West Virginia Pulp and Paper employed between 2,500 and 3,000 men. In an average week six to 10 carloads of food and supplies traveled over the railroad to 12 logging camps. Our ride would take us just four miles up the track to Whittaker Station.

The locomotive was a loud beast that slowly chugged its way up the track, stopping so switchmen could get us from one set of tracks to the other and then we’d back up the switchback and continue up the mountain. When the engineer blew the whistle small children burst into tears and folks covered their ears. Coal dust filtered down on us. Nobody said coal driven trains were the cleanest or quietest things. But, they are historic and powerful! About 40 minutes later we arrived at the top at Whittaker Station. Here the #5 stopped for 20 minutes and for the many who had brought boxed lunches from the Cass Railroads restaurant The Last Run there was a large picnic area to enjoy the summer sunshine and cooler temperatures found up this elevation; with a remarkable view of the surrounding West Virginian mountains and really only accessible by the Cass Scenic Railroad.

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All too soon the #5 screamed its whistle signaling time to board for the ride back down the mountain. From our seats we could see and talk with the brakeman, who was very busy on this trip down, especially at any turns or switchbacks where he not only operated the big wheels that control the brakes, but making sure the wheels stay on tracks – just as railroad men have done for generations. At the bottom we strolled the gift shop (there is always a gift shop) and then had lunch at The Last Run that was featured as one of the “101 Unique Places to Dine” in West Virginia. We couldn’t agree more the Cass Scenic railroad is not to be missed, especially if you are a fan of the classic railroad or just about to become one.


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FEBRUARY 2017 • BACKROADS

Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents

WE’RE OUTTA HER E

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads

morning glory inn 71 SPRING RD, SLATY FORK, WV 26291 304-572-5000 • WWW.MORNINGGLORYINN.COM

An inn above the rest For this special West Virginia issue we wanted to give you a very special We’re Outta Here! – and, we are pretty sure we have just the place for you. The small hamlet of Slaty Fork, West Virginia, in Pocahontas County, has two of the state’s best motorcycling roads running into each other - Routes 66 and 219. I can’t remember a time when we have ridden through this part of the Mountain state and not crossed one or both of these fantastic strips of pavement. The last time we passed through I couldn’t help but notice the sign for a B&B on the right, with a road leading down and over a small wooden bridge and creek. The Morning Glory Inn. When we began to form a plan for our last West Virginian romp Shira was telling me of this inn she had heard about and mentioned she had read really wonderful things about it. We looked at the map and I remembered the sign.

I knew this place. We put 2 & 2 together and came up with a #10! A few emails back and forth and we now had a room and a plan. Rod & Karin have been in the hospitality business for decades and about 19 years ago came across what is now the Morning Glory in this little piece of West Virginia dreamland. Over the years the home has just gotten better and we really were looking forward to seeing the Bed & Breakfast for ourselves after riding past it so many times. We spent only one lovely night at Morning Glory and that was not nearly enough. We had a long motorcycle ride that day and showed up on their doorstep, in the early evening, hot and tired. (It was over 100 degrees before we entered the mountains) and Rod welcomed us with a big smile and handshake, settling us in, pointing us in the direction of dinner, and asking if we needed anything at all to make us comfortable. This place was beautiful.

As I got the bikes comfortable for the night I took in the stunning surroundings. Watching the hummingbirds flit to and fro from my chair on the porch I thought to myself, “This is very, very nice…” Our first floor room was large, well appointed and, thankfully, air-conditioned. From our window we could see the beautiful West Virginia mountains and all the beautiful flowers that adorn the Morning Glory. We had arrived a bit later than we thought and wanted to scoot out for dinner and Rod recommended The Fiddlehead restaurant just down the road on the way to Snowshoe and over the peaks from the Cass Scenic Railroad (a worthy stop). As we rode over we could feel the storm clouds building. It had been hot everywhere on the east coast and something was about to give.


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2017

The Fiddlehead is a place we have been in before and we took a seat just as a local foursome band got to playing. Two great guitars (Martin and Takamine - I was envious) an upright bass and a wonderful female singer made some great music covering classics and some we had never heard before. One tune was a native-style piece called Rain Dance. When they were finished, as if by cue, thunder boomed, lightning flared and there was a loud sharp bang… and the room went dark. The rain began to slash the region and the lights came back on, but we think the large screen television was shot for good. The band said it was the first time they played the song and it worked. We enjoyed their deviled steak & eggs appetizer and the steak was awesome as well, while the skies emptied out. Right about the time we were done so were the storms and the ride back under a shadowy moon, the Perseid meteor showers, with frogs and peepers scooting across the rain soaked roadways made for an interesting obstacle course. Back at the Morning Glory Inn the shower was strong and refreshing and the bed was super comfortable and well anticipated after the long hot ride. Morning in Slaty Fork was like most West Virginian daybreaks, rimmed

Page 19 with low clouds but showing the promise for a brighter day in the immediate future. Breakfast was delicious, with Karin’s homemade banana bread and several homemade jams including blueberry and apple pie. Fresh breads, fruits and homemade granolas to add to cereal or yogurt. Plenty of good, hot coffee and Rod offered up eggs if wanted. Being motorcyclists, it is always great to find a place that welcomes us and is located in such a beautiful part of the country for both scenery and riding. Rod and Karin are gracious hosts, with a lovely home that they love to share with others. The large and comfortable common living room is full of books to enlighten and entertain during your stay. The upstairs bedrooms are EXTREMELY large, with vaulted ceilings and even more impressive views. The Morning Glory has very reasonable rates ($119 March thru Oct) and is a perfect spot for a base if you’d like to tour this part of West Virginia as the Cass Railroad and the NRAO at Green Bank (let’s look for ETs) are a great day trip from the B&B. When riding through Pocahontas County you will not find better.


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Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MY STERIO U S A MER IC A Top five odd spots in mysterious West Virginia Doctor Seymour O’Life For you monthly readers of Mysterious America you know that the Mountain State of West Virginia has a higher than normal occurence of different, mysterious and odd places in its 24,230 square miles. This month I’d like to tell you my Top Five Odd Spots in Mysterious West Virginia. Maybe you have been to some of these as Backroads likes to drag our faithful (usually kicking & screaming) to the wackiness that is to be found out there, but it never hurts to remind people that West Virginia is just so much fun to ride and explore.

#5 • odd, West Virginia Located along the Tommy Creek in Raleigh County, you will find something… well, something Odd. Population of about 770, Odd is not the biggest town in WVA, but they have one or two legends to share with us – the

main one being the story of some very “odd” folks in the town. Although when I was there I had no runins with these folks, the stories persist of an eccentric and inbred family that do not like

strangers or being bothered in anyway. There was even a slasher film called Wrong Turn that is supposedly based on Odd. Since it stars Eliza Dushku (of Buffy the Vampire Slayer fame) it might be worth watching. So it seems most states have a town like this as this story sounds a bit like the tale of the Jackson Whites in in the Ramapo Mountains of New Jersey. Still, we think it is worth the miles just to get a picture of the Odd sign and a taste of Mysterious West Virginia – what could possibly go wrong?

#4 • mummies of Philippi Few things in the Mountain State can be creepier or as fascinating (depending on your outlook) that the two mummies found at the Barbour County Historical Society Museum once serving as the Philippi B&O Railroad station - in Philippi, West Virginia. The mummies are two former female patients from the Trans-Allegheny Lunatic Asylum in Weston, WV. After their deaths, the bodies were obtained by Graham Hamrick who then mummified their bodies. Hamrick had practiced his mummifying techniques on animals prior to obtaining the bodies. This was just the beginning of these women’s story as they were bought and resold, making a world tour before being returned to West Virginia and where they now rest - in a glass case, in an old bathroom at the historical society. It should be also noted that this town was home to the Philippi Races – the


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2017 first land battle of the Civil War on June 3, 1861 – and it was the boyhood home of Ted Cassidy, who played Lurch on the original Addams Family television series. Philippi is worth visiting for this alone. “You rang?”

#3 • Trans-allegheny lunatic asylum In the town of Weston – not that far from the Mummies of Philippi – you will find an enormous and ominous building. Indeed, the Trans-Allegheny Lunatic Asylum is one of the largest hand-hewn bluestone buildings in the world (second only to Russia’s Kremlin) and if a place has ghosts the Trans-Allegheny most likely has hundreds. Designed by architect Richard Andrews, this Kirkbride-style psychiatric hospital was operational from 1864 till 1994 – where it last held victims of the new AIDs scourge. Although much of the mammoth building is in tatters the main building has been refurbished and it holds an excellent museum that will educate you on some of the treatments and ways, horrific as some were, of treating mental illness in less enlightened times. Taking a tour of the rest of the building is well worth the time but be prepared for a bit of creepiness and sinister atmosphere.

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#2 • The mothman • Point Pleasant, West Virginia Would I give you a Top 5 list without a monster or alien? Of course not, but how about if it might be both? In West Virginia folklore, the Mothman is a legendary creature being reportedly seen in Point Pleasant, on the Ohio River, in late 1967 – 50 years ago this November. The first reports were from a couple of teenagers that were out by the old TNT Plant, outside Point Pleasant. The couple spotted two large eyes that were attached to something that was “shaped like a man, but bigger, maybe six or seven feet tall. And it had big wings folded against its back”.

Panicked they tried to speed away but the creature – soon to be dubbed The Mothman – gave chase, matching their high speed, down the country backroads. They went to report it and told Deputy Sheriff Millard Halstead that it followed them down Highway 62 and right to the Point Pleasant city limits. And they would not be the only ones to report the creature that night. Another group of four witnesses claimed to see the “bird” three different times! Yes, with teens running into town screaming “Monster” it sounds like a


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remake of The Blob, but today the city of Point Pleasant not only does not deny that things happen, but they have a giant statue of The Mothman in the middle of the town. Things got worse on December 15, 1967, when the Silver Bridge, crossing into Ohio, collapsed while it was full of rush-hour traffic, resulting in the deaths of 46 people. Engineers say it was structural failure, others point to the appearance of the Mothman.

was a secret bunker hidden in the mountains - in case the Reds decided to push the button down (Fagen fans take note). This project was started by President Eisenhower, who wanted a secure, safe and hidden facility for Congress and the government to continue in case of nuclear attack. After spending a few weeks vacation at the Greenbrier, a famed resort in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia, the president made a deal with the hotel for something very, very hush hush.

A recent image has surface that was taken this past November by a new resident to the town, who claimed not to even know about the legend. Is the Mothman back? Like the happenings in Odd, what happened in Point Pleasant back in 1967 was also made into a feature film called ‘The Mothman Prophesies’. You will also find the Mothman Museum down the street and an awesome hotel called the Lowe that we featured in Backroads a number of years back right across the street.

#1 • greenbrier Bunker A Congressional Hide Out in the Mountains Two words stuck out to me when I visited the Greenbrier Resort deep in the mountains of West ‘By God’ Virginia and they were “High Voltage.” I’ll get back to this in a minute, but you probably have heard that there

Monies and funds were covertly diverted to the resort and work began on a “new wing” of the old hotel. Yes, some did wonder at the amount of equipment used and the huge excavations being done (it was 112,544 square feet and built 720 feet into a granite hillside) along with the quadrupling of the runway length at the tiny local airport – but hey, people were working and things were good in White Sulphur Springs. The bunker was finished and kept hidden from general knowledge for decades until on May 31, 1992 a journalist for the

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2017

BOOK REVIEW

STEVE MCQUEEN IN LEMANS

COFFee TAbLe bOOk OF STeve MCQueen’S LegendARy FiLM TAkeS CHeCkeRed FLAg In the offices here at Backroads is a wall that has become an homage to the late great Steve McQueen – the King of Cool! It didn’t start out to be this but a poster from the Great Escape led to the Mustang from Bullit, to a number of books and the focal point of the wall memorabilia about the racing film LeMans – considered by many (and everyone here at Backroads) to be the greatest racing film ever made. Our replica Porsche 917 is one of most thoughtful gifts I have ever received (only topped by a Mets jersey signed by the 69 & 86 teams) To get a bit ghosty here Swiss artist Sandro Garbo says that Steve McQueen himself came to him in a dream and told him to create this graphic novel Steve McQueeen in LeMans. Whatever the impetus, the final product is spectacular! We received a copy of Lemans and must say that it is everything we hoped for and then some. We think Garbo’s illustrations actually outshine the original film, and is a pure joy to page through and read and, unlike the film, there is actual dialogue on the first few pages (there was no dialogue from any of the characters for the first 37 minutes of the movie). This book has sat here in the office for a week now, only to be picked up again and again - a truly wonderful work. Best of all Steve McQueen in LeMans is just the first part of this tribute, as Garbo Studios has just begun the story, and there is more of the film to tell and we hope for Volume 2 to come as soon as possible. To find out more information or to order yours ($32 US) log on www.garbo-studio.com. Washington Post, named Ted Gup, blew the whistle on the entire project in an article in the Post. Personally I think Gup was a bit of a jerk spilling this news and I would never do something like that. Like, I would never tell you that since the bunker at the Greenbrier is closed that the new “secret” facility is at the monstrous FEMA complex at Mount Weather, Virginia near the town of Bluemont along State Road 601 with the big ‘DO NOT STOP HERE’ signs. That would be a messed up thing to do, right?

Today most of the Greenbrier’s bunker is being used for long–term storage of valuable documents and data, but the gist of it all can be seen in daily tours; truly a grand piece of Mysterious America or, in this case, Mysterious West Virginia. You might ask how they were able to keep the place a secret from the prying eyes and possible accidental discovery. Every large door and venting facility used a simple approach and easy to understand warning to keep rightminded folks at bay… the words “High Voltage”. I know that usually works for me. O’Life out! Sources & Locations:

Barbour county historical society museum 200 North Main Street, Phillipi, WV 26416 304-457-3700

Trans-allegheny lunatic asylum 71 Asylum Drive, Weston, WV 26452 www.trans-alleghenylunaticasylum.com

The greenbrier resort 300 W. Main Street, White Sulphur Springs, WV 855 453-4858 • www.greenbrier.com

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West Virginia Ice Cream I’m sure that there are plenty of really great places to get ice cream in Wild and Wonderful West Virginia. Today I’m serving up one stop that will be offered during our Spring Break Rally in May and the other two because of their history in the ice cream business. While those two may very well be considered Ohio, the bonus, should you find yourself in this neck of the woods, would be a visit to Hillbilly Hot Dogs, one of my most favorite hot dog joints in the world. It’s just ‘up the road a piece’ in Lesage, WV.

griffiTh & feil drug sTore and soda founTain 1405 CHESTNUT ST, KENOVA, WV 25530 • 304-453-5227 • OPEN YEAR ROUND With more than a century of history behind it, Griffith & Feil is a landmark within the Kenova community. Originally established as a pharmacy in 1892, it found its current location on Chestnut Street in 1914. After the death of the original owners, it was run under the joint ownership of Simp & Dick Griffith and Glen Feil – thus the name. It remains, to this day, under the Griffith family watch. Ric Griffith began renovation of the classic soda fountain and re-opened it in 2004, complete with classic copper fixtures and lighting. Even the bathroom plumbing has the right vintage feel. You’ll find all the classics here such as malts, sundaes, floats and milkshakes. There are old-fashioned hand-mixed sodas called ‘phosphates’ in a wide variety of flavors. Their banana splits are some of the best around, served with a scoop each of vanilla, chocolate and strawberry ice cream topped with whipped cream, nuts, caramel, pineapple and chocolate fudge. Along with their dairy delights you can order up burgers, salads or sandwiches, as well as their soup of the day. Should you want a particularly local dish, have them make you The Appalachian, a simple West Virginia staple of fried bologna with grilled onions and mustard. You can sit a spell and enjoy your meal while drinking in the nostalgia that is Griffith & Feil.

ausTin’s home-made ice cream 1103 C ST, KENOVA WV 25530 304-453-2071 • OPEN SEASONALLY Not quite as old but equally as loved is Austin’s Home-Made Ice Cream in the same town. In business since 1947, Joyce Snyder, now in her 80s, has owned Austin’s since 1983, and still does the mixing of the ice cream in the back of the store. Starting with just 13 fla-

vors, they now offer more than 30, with grape pineapple – one of the original 13 – still their top seller. Using all natural ingredients, Snyder and crew make between 300 and 400 gallons a week, keeping things fresh and revolving. They have seasonal flavors as well, with pump-


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2017 kin being a fan favorite. Austin’s has walk-up window service only but offers outdoor seating so you can sit and enjoy your ice cream. They are open from April to mid-October.

ellen’s homemade ice cream 225 CAPITOL ST, CHARLESTON, WV 25301 304-343-6488 • WWW.ELLENSICECREAM.COM Of the three, Ellen’s is the new kid on the block, being only 10 years in the business. Ellen Beal was studying flute in Boston when she developed a hankering for ice cream. Sampling the delicious homemade flavors offered in New England, once she returned home to West Virginia, she realized that there was a

need for such stuff. In September 1997, she opened her doors, serving fresh, all-natural homemade ice cream to her peeps. With regular flavors ranging from Espresso Oreo to Coffee and Heath, she injects some seasonal stuff such as Egg Nog, Ginger and Smooth Ambler during winter months and Charleston Crunch, Dirty Chocolate and Sir Almond Hillary at other times of the year. In addition to her ice cream, Ellen offers up Gelato (Pistachio, Amaretto and Zabaione to name a very few), Sherbert and Sorbet (Black Currant, Everest at Midnight and Mango Ha-

Page 25 banero peaked my interest). There are coffee drinks and treats to wash these all down and, should you feel a bit more than puckish, soups, salads and wraps round out the menu. The shop is bright and inviting, with seats both inside and out. Set in the middle of Charleston, you can stay and eat or grab a cone and wander.

hillBilly hoT dog 6951 OHIO RIVER RD, LESAGE, WV 304-762-2458• WWW.HILLBILLYHOTDOGS.COM Any visit to this part of the country deserves a stop at the wacky and fun Hillbilly Hot Dog compound. They got the weenies – with EVERYTHING from the plain Jane deep-fried weenie, hot dog sauce, mustard and onions to

the HOMEWRECKER, a 15-inch, one pound weenie and two pounds of toppings. With 16 years of gathering ‘stuff’ you can wander the premises and keep finding new and unusual items. Yes, they do serve ice cream as well. Should you know of any outstanding ice cream places you feel I should visit, please send them along to shira@backroadsusa.com


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The FDNY Dream Bike Part II The Amazing and Improbable Journey of One Special Machine We told you, or reminded you, the story of the FDNY Dream Bike, how it began and how it was created. This machine would log more miles than some folks day-to-day rides, although never really under its own power or on public streets. It was first unveiled at the New York Motorcycle Show, where it straddled the back of the booths of Rising Wolf Garage and Backroads. I clearly remember one firefighter coming up and simply staring at the bike, stunning in its fire engine red and gold leaf trim. He began to sob and it took him more than a few minutes to let the emotions run out. I remember Michael Wernick holding him until he was done.

As a surviving firefighter from one of the houses to first respond to the plane hitting the tower he knew, better than anyone, this fireman’s pain. This response to the Dream Bike was not unique as the machine still stirs emotions these 15 years later and, although a few custom bikes were created

in memory of 9/11 none had the gravitas or pure emotion as this Honda. In 2003 filmmaker John Allison, son of jazz great Mose Allison, created a wonderful documentary highlighting the bike, and the emotions that have constantly surrounded it. The film can be seen here: https://vimeo.com/49279617. I watched it while writing this article and was surprised at the memories and emotions that bubbled up a decade and half later. The film debuted in Manhattan with the Dream Bike to be raffled off at a restaurant around the corner from the Great Jones Firehouse. This began the next stage of its journey, as it was won by a woman from Florida who then gave it to a fire fighter whose brother was killed that fateful day. Eventually he, his family and the bike headed down for retirement in Florida. But this bike’s journey and story did not end here – it was just getting started. About a year after the bike was raffled off I got a phone call from Michael. “Guess what just rolled back into the garage?” he asked. Being that Rising Wolf is New York City’s premier private motorcycle garage I could only imagine. Classic Brough Superior, a TZ750, one of Evel Kneivel’s bikes? It could have been anything. But, I was not ready to hear that the Dream Bike was back. Shit does happen and, for reasons of which I am not too entirely sure (so we’ll gloss over) the Dream Bike was once again within earshot of the firehouse at Great Jones Street (a beautiful and historic house and well worth visiting). Although the bike could have probably had a home there in the East Village, it was generally thought that a better, more public home for the Dream

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2017

Nuri and Michael with the Dream Bike at FASNY Bike was in order. There is a phenomenal book called New York by Edward Rutherford. It begins with a Dutch trader sailing up the North river (now called the Hudson) and follows through his descendants for years, culminating with the events of September 11th. In like fashion the FDNY Dream Bike made its first public stop up the river, at the FASNY Firemen’s Home in Hudson, New York. The governor himself was there when the Dream Bike was first unveiled in a stunning display that was well thought out and executed. It stayed at the FASNY for a few years. Things were to change at the museum and the offer came from Motorcyclepedia in Newburgh to hold onto the machine. Although not ever wanting the hat, Michael became the unofficial guardian of the FDNY Dream Bike, and he and his wife Nuri (you can’t tell this story and not mention Nuri – this bike’s biggest fan at five foot nothDream Bike exhibited at Motorcyclepedia Museum

Dream Bike final home at the 9/11 Memorial Museum

Page 27 ing) quietly made things happen when they needed to. We had visited the bike a few times at FASNY and again at Motorcyclepedia and all involved seemed happy to leave the bike in one of the greatest motorcycle museums in the northeast. Then what we had all quietly talked about and hope for happened. Michael, still heavily involved with the Fire Department on a personal level (that’ll never change), was contacted by the National September 11 Memorial & Museum at the site of the fallen towers. Would the FDNY Dream Bike like a permanent home? A permanent home at Ground Zero and now the site of the September 11 Memorial & Museum? It would indeed. Like the Van Dyck family in Rutherford’s book New York, the story of the FDNY Dream Bike would be making a full circle and returning to where this all began - Lower Manhattan.


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FEBRUARY 2017 • BACKROADS

TO THE WILDS OF

Shira’s family was doing their yearly beach week, so we got to mix a bit of business with a bit of family pleasure for these first few days on the road. We kept busy for the couple of days we were on New Jersey’s longest island (LBI is 18 miles long) taking in the Barnegat Lighthouse, built in 1859 and designed by Lt. George Meade. A few years later General George Meade would be a very busy man. We mixed this in with the Edwin B. Forsythe National Wildlife, more than 40,000 acres of southern New Jersey coastal habitat, and the fabulous New Jersey Maritime Museum. Of course, we’d finish the day on the beach, book in hand as the days slipped away.

BAY, BELTWAY AND THE BURNING…

As July rolled into August last summer we thought it was high time we rolled too - this time back south, first along the coast and a little Jersey Shore action and then further down the Garden State and into the Mid-Atlantic Region. From there our thoughts went west and through Virginia and then a couple more days in the mountains of West By God Virginia.

DOWN DA SHORE… The Jersey Shore was an easy run down through the state, heading first south along the Delaware River and then cutting through the state’s famous Pine Barrens before crossing over the long causeway on to Long Beach Island. Although this island and most of the shore points of New Jersey can get crowded, the swell of shore-goers was not all that bad during the week. We took a room at “land’s end” of LBI at the south with Mile Marker O across the street.

To be honest two days is plenty enough Jersey Shore for us and we soon moved on heading south along the coast towards the ferry at Cape May that would bring us to the Capes of Delaware State. We love to stumble upon stuff and outside of Gretna we found something straight out of Weird NJ – in fact I found out more about it later in Weird NJ. We spotted a long brown wall that seemed to be running in front of a compound of sorts. It turns out this place has been a large farm since the 1800s but recently, and we mean recently, the new owners have taken to lining the wall with planes, dinosaurs, the Statue of Liberty, dragons, Transformers – you know, the usual stuff. Hardly! According to the Masters of Weird the home now belongs to

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2017 Byung Taek Kim of Fort Lee, NJ. Mr. Kim, who is Chairman of the Taekwondo Association of Greater New York, bought the property for the sole purpose of renovating and remodeling the estate into a summer shore retreat for his family. Since then he has had a bit of fun decorating and it certainly got us to stop and take a look. We timed the ferry perfectly and were on board and sitting down for a bay crossing breakfast by 10:30. The crossing was smooth and we even had a pod of dolphins keep pace with us for a bit. This day the weather had turned warm and as the temperatures rose into the 90s we swapped out our heavier Aerostich jackets for lighter vented high-viz jackets we had brought along as we knew we’d hit some hot stuff. We rode the backroads of Delaware west into Maryland and then crossed over the Chesapeake Bay (one of my favorite places) making a stop by Kent Island for a couple dozen blue crabs and fixins (one of my favorite things). These crabs were Jurassic and it took more than an hour to finish them off, but we were tenacious and determined. With both lunch AND dinner taken care off we did our best to loop around Annapolis and Washington D.C. but still

Page 29 having to deal with the afternoon rush. Nothing beats 100 + degrees and heavy traffic. This must be the “adventure” part of motorcycles, travel & adventure, right? In truth it wasn’t that bad and we had reservations just a few miles from the home of one of our personal heroes. Mount Vernon, the home of George Washington. All the images of the region that portray the home of George and Martha Washington paint a pastoral image from the late 1700s – our hotel and the main road it was on showed how this nation has so changed, with the ‘mallification’ of our land. Hot and sweaty and a bit done from the traffic and heat we pulled into the Best Western, right across from the charming dialysis center. What would George think of modern urban America? Not much I think.

WASHINGTON’S HOME AND THE BACKROADS WEST Mount Vernon is found just 16 miles from the nation’s capital and despite modern America being not too far away Mount Vernon was all I thought it would be; stately, bucolic, peaceful and so full of history. For those of you who read this magazine each month you are familiar with our fascination and chasing of our Revolutionary War history. A ride to Mount Vernon was well overdo. Like magic, just a mile or so from the main road and the modern world, we slipped back into the past. Mount Vernon lies right on the Potomac River and the home and the grounds were exactly as we had envisioned them. We walked in as they opened the gates at 0900 and had been set up for one of the first tours of the morning. Walking through the grounds, kept as close as possible to how it was back in the late 1700s, you could not help but think of how many people who chiseled out this nation from the rock of history walked these same grounds.


Page 30 It seemed that George and Martha had hundreds of guests and today Mount Vernon is the most visited home in all of the United States. I was particularly taken with their bedroom. The same bed still sits in this room and it was here that General and President George Washington passed from this Earth - to me one of the greatest Americans to have ever lived.

After the tour of the home we walked to Washington’s Tomb, where he and his wife (along with a number of the family) are laid to rest. If seeing the room where he died had me taken, seeing his tomb and stone sarcophagus had me totally humbled. We both bowed our heads, said what we thought needed to be said and left – both quiet for the next few minutes. We took in the Visitor’s Center, which is well worth exploring – the displays and the 4-D theatre presentations were outstanding. If you do not understand why Washington set the bar so high for all who followed him then surely come here and you will understand our passion for this man. By now it was past noon and well into the 90s.

FEBRUARY 2017 • BACKROADS We had about 250 miles to go and the first hour would be battling Washington D.C. suburban sprawl and around Quantico. Ever stalwart we carried on. About an hour later we got into some easier twolane roadways and headed, more or less, west towards the Appalachian Mountains and, hopefully, some cooler temps. Stopping for fuel the GS claimed it was over 100 degrees, Shira’s 800 said just 99. We stopped in Orange, Virginia – home of James Madison - for lunch only to get the cold shoulder from the first restaurant we entered (I was stunned at the treatment) and then found a place that was actually cordial. With the third day of this heat wave upon us and with 160 miles to go to our planned stop for the night we began to think of Plan B. To tell the truth I considered just stopping in Staunton, finding a cheap motel with a pool and see what would happen the next day, but Shira was quietly pushing us to ride on. When it comes to temperature extremes I am a wimp these days (not my fault, seriously) and she had her heart set on a B&B we had heard wonderful things about in the town of Slaty Forks, West Virginia called the Morning Glory. We heard it was very rider-friendly and along one of the nicest north/south roads in the state. Husbands will agree that sometimes it is better to suck it up and roll on. As usual, she was right. The lowlands gave way to the foothills and we began to get a touch of relief. Crossing over Skyline Drive it was a cool high 80s and the long winding Route 39 into West Virginia was brilliant, especially as we crossed over just minutes after some big boomers came through, blackened and heavy clouds rolling to the north and east.

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It went from 100 plus to high 70s in about an hour. Say hallelujah, brothers and sisters. Along the way I spied another little bit of history as we passed near the birthplace of Meriwether Lewis. A lifetime ago we came across the place where he was found dead (murder?) along the Natchez Trace, but here is where the intrepid explorer took his first steps; and it is always good to ride into surprising history. Keeping with the historical birthplaces we rode into Pocahontas County, the Birthplace of Rivers. Here in the county a full eight large rivers are formed with the Greenbrier River, at 173 miles, being the longest unblocked river remaining in the east. It was called the “Dark Path” by native tribes as it was used for transportation and that the river takes on a darkish hue from the limestone karsts it runs through. Bourbon anyone? Route 219 North from Marlington has to be one of the most interesting portions of pavement in the state. Up and down, right and left and watch that big chunk of missing roadway taken out by the recent floods! Get your braking done and roll through the turns looking as far ahead as you can. This is why we love West Virginia. We reached the Morning Glory as the sun was heading down. Storms had touched the region just before we did and the mountains were heavy with mist and the roads wet and leaf covered. We met Rod, one half of the couple who run the Morning Glory, and he showed us to our room that was very large and comfortable; something we really needed after the long hot run of the day.

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FEBRUARY 2017 • BACKROADS

The place looked stunning and we were both glad Shira decided for us that we should keep on, keepin’ on this day. Dinner and music were found just a few miles up the road and while we dined a gullywasher (local talk) slammed the mountains. Lightning and thunder flashed and boomed and power went off for a time at the restaurant. We waited it all out and rode back to the B&B, dodging peepers and frogs bonsaing it across the soaked roadways. Sleep came easily that night and that was good, as coming down to West Virginia was the point of this whole sojourn.

RAILROADS, THE COSMOS AND HIDDEN LODGES… The front that moved through turned down the heat for the next morning as we rode up and over the mountains in a sunfiltered mist with the temperatures in the low 70s. Our first stop was just a few miles east, over the mountains, at the Cass Scenic Railroad. We have passed by here at least a dozen times and occasionally stopped when one of the locomotives were there belching steam and coal smoke. This day we were taking the train for a two-hour tour to Whitaker Mountain, one of a few stops that the Cass Railroad does everyday. Fist we did a tour of the old lumber works (the reason there was a train in the first place) and then boarded Shea train #5 for the push and pull up the side of the mountain. We sat right behind the locomotive and the shear power and might of the engine was amazing. Loud too. Atop the peak many took a short picnic and Shira and I ex-

plored what was to be seen at the old lumber camp and the views from the top. The ride down was a bit quicker than the trudge up and it being lunch time we grabbed sandwiches and salads at The Last Run restaurant – voted one of the most unusual places to eat lunch in West Virginia by someone, somewhere – they had a plaque stating such and with the trains blowing steam and chugging in and out who would argue with them? We continued across on Route 66 and made a short detour north to the Green Bank Radio Observatory. We have written about Green Bank a number of times here in Backroads, but whenever you are in this part of the state a visit is always in order; even if just to see the huge radio telescopes.


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2017

Something else you will find on the grounds of the Green Bank, in addition to a wonderful visitors center, is a scale model of our solar system. Along the road they have marked the Sun, Mercury, Venus, Earth…. and so on. Riding along this you will be stunned had how big it is and how far the outer planets really are! Backtracking south we followed valley roads with rolling hills and small mountains to both left and right. Down here the temperatures began to climb again, but never got anywhere near the boil of the previous days. All was good here in wild and wonderful West Virginia! Our route followed, more or less, the Greenbrier River and then took off along some smaller county roads that turned and twisted into the hills and hollers of West VA. We were now in the part of the state that took the floods in late June the hardest. Here and there we could see roads still washed away and damage still apparent.

Passing through White Sulphur Springs the Neola Baptist Church had a sign asking for prayers for the flood victims. Other than that and a small cardboard sign that said “Flood Relief Center” you would be hard pressed to hear or see any complaints and whining from these people. Like Hurricane Irene that hit Vermont and the Catskills these massive storms and their damage were quickly pushed from the public’s eye by the media. Years later you can’t say the name New Orleans without reliving that hurricane (we know it was bad, we were there right after), but here in West Virginia the killer floods of this past spring are almost forgotten by some. Not us - and we’ll remember this as we ride the 2017’s Spring Break Rally. Altering our course towards the night’s stay we passed the Bluestone Dam - a massive concrete structure at 165 feet high and 2,048 feet long, it was built to control flooding on the New River – ironically one of the oldest rivers on the planet. From here it was a short jaunt to Pipestem State Park. This park is a real gem of West Virginia with its gorge and large facility - archery, horseback riding, watersport and two lodges. One up high and the other, the Mountain Creek, found at the bottom of a 3,600-foot tramway that drops some 1,100 feet. When it opened in 1970 it was the biggest and most ambitious park in West Virginia’s history and the state invested $14 million dollars (that was in 1970).

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We parked the bikes, grabs our gear and hopped on the first tram down. The rooms were comfortable and the setting very West Virginny. Note to those who follow - it is a small trek down here. There is no cell and spotty Wi-Fi at best (OMG-Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?) and once you are down here you have to remember your bike is up there and you have to bring your gear back up. For those less intrepid the other lodge is very nice too. The Mountain Creek also has fine dining and reservations are a must – so when you book your room you should make them as well. Once roomed and showered we walk the grounds taking it all in – the place is phenomenal and then we slid into a great romantic dinner and the night.


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FEBRUARY 2017 • BACKROADS

RIVERS, BRIDGES AND POOLS… The dinner the previous night was exemplary – local mushrooms soup and well prepared local trout made for a delicious repast. The next day the valley was rimmed with deep fog and the tram that headed up brought us right into it and then through, bursting forth into a bright West Virginian morning.

From the top of Pipestem you could see the ridges of the peaks piercing the clouds that shrouded the deep valleys. We have stayed in many odd and interesting places but the hideaway lodge tucked in the gorge is very different and more than a bit special. We backtracked a tad along Bluestone Park and then headed west on State Road 3, which immediately began the roller coaster that would be most of our day’s ride. West Virginia has some of the most well thought out roads in the nation. In truth many follow trails along the mountains that were well worn by natives for centuries, but the DOT here just don’t pave a road - they grade it, and bank it and then pave it making many of the roads in The Mountain State more than a pleasure to pursue.

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We did not have anything to eat yet this day so we thought to find a place in Beckley. Fehh. But, as my friend Dee Dee says, “It’s just a meal.” No hungry local crowds – just three guys yappin’ after the Sunday morning AA meeting should have been our first clue. Somewhat full we headed north on Route 19 that was a bit bigger than most of the roads we had played with down here, but would bring us to and across our first stop of the day. The New River Gorge Bridge! At 3,030 feet long and 876 feet high this bridge is the longest steel span in the western hemisphere and the third highest in the United States. The trip that once took 40 minutes now takes about 40 seconds on Route 19 over the lofty span. It is so high that on the third Saturday of October, the Fayette County Chamber of Commerce hosts “Bridge Day.” On this one day a year, the famous New River Gorge Bridge is open to pedestrians and a wide variety of activities—great views, food and crafts vendors, BASE jumping, rappelling, music, and more—draw thousands of people. Bridge Day is West Virginia’s largest one-day festival, and it is the largest extreme sports event in the world.


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2017

We stopped at the Visitors Center to learn a bit more about the construction of the bridge and to walk out to the viewing stand to see it in its glory. We have been here a few times and the last we rode down to the Fayetteville Bridge (once the only way to go) to see the bridge from below. We had a long day ahead of us (nearly 300 big miles) so we rode a bit further west to Hawks Nest State Park along the twisty Route 60. The view from this part of the New River Gorge below was equally impressive. And not too much further along the road we came across The Mystery Hole – one of those weird wacky places that promise gravity has gone sideways. We have also been here before and I was pretty sure it hadn’t changed all that much. If you ride by and have the inkling to be a sucke… I mean tourist…then stop by. When we were planning this day’s ride we looked for two things. #1 – Try a few roads we hadn’t ridden yet (we spend a lot of time down here) #2 – Said roads must be squirrely, snakey, and twistalicious. Route 16 north would do just that as we rode it for hours along the Elk River and the valleys heading north. This road itself is long as it spans many states along its 475 miles and to the south the road ends just north of South Carolina. We’d take it as far as Ivydale where we’d swing onto Route 4 that would head up to Flatwoods – home of the infamous Flatwoods Monster that terrorized the area in September of 1952. What, you’d thought you would get away without something cryptid and O’Life’ish? Of the many “monster” stories we have told in Backroads this was the only one that seemed more “mechanical” than biological. Go Google it. In Arnoldsburg we came across the Y Restaurant. The lot was packed with cars (unlike the empty lot this morning) so we thought Y-not? The joint was crowded with Sunday churchgoers and family but we found a table and it worked out far better than earlier in the day. Note to self. If even the locals won’t come, neither should we. We picked up Route 33 and headed east. Route 33 is a fine road and can be ridden as you see fit following the stunning rights and lefts graded and banked by the West Virginia DOT just for our pleasure. We rode through Weston and made a pass by the Trans-Allegheny Lunatic Asylum – we’d be crazy not to. We have featured this mammoth building (second in size only to the Kremlin) a few times and Shira brought a bundle of deserving patients here during our Fall Fiesta last year. This road followed through Elkins and past the Isaac Jackson Hotel that Shira kept calling the Isaac Hayes. (she is a bad mother…) For those of you who were with us for that event we’d like you to know that… There is still no railing or bannister. You know what I mean. We had planned our route to finish up near Seneca Rocks, but (keeping with the state park theme) we went for our, ever popular, Plan B and rode to Canaan Valley instead. We have been here many times in the past and even held the end of our wettest rally ever here. But, over the last few years they have redone the entire place. What was once a nice lodge in the park is now spectacular, with the rooms up to date and spacious and the pool most welcoming after the long day. Hey, they even had wi-fi and actual cell service. Welcome back to civilization!

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NORTHWARD HO! Once again West Virginia did not disappoint when it came to a spectacular dawn. Canaan Valley was a mistfilled delight as we watched the deer stroll out of the forest for a morning meal on the deep pastures that surround the resort. All great things must come to an end and thus it was with our large loop around West Virginia. But, before we continued north we road south a bit to pick up Route 33 again and ride the curves east towards Seneca Rocks. These rocks, fog filled and backlit in the morning dominate this region and we always feel good when we ride by them. We stopped in at Smoke Hole Caverns, home to the large cave and now a resort in its own right. We tried to mix in some newto-us roads and some old favorites as we headed north to Mount Storm, with its great wind turbines and then a bunch

FEBRUARY 2017 • BACKROADS of smaller numbered backroads to the border with Maryland along the George’s Creek Valley. Frostburg really looked like it was still in the 1970s and I mean that in a good way. What a cute town. Soon we were in Pennsylvania and making time north stopping for lunch at the old Jean Bonnet Tavern on Route 30, the Lincoln Highway, in Bedford. This place has been serving travelers since the 1700s and was used as a gathering place by protesting local farmers during the 1794 Whiskey Rebellion. As a history lover I was excited to learn this, especially after visiting Mount Vernon. The rebellion was one of the first real issue’s (the first being Shay’s Rebellion) that our nation had to deal with and it was personally handled by President Washington himself who was, and is, the only President to ride out to a battlefield as Commander & Chief. Today the Jean Bonnet is a great place for lunch or dinner and they even have a number of excellent rooms upstairs for overnight stays. The heat that had plagued us all trip had begun to come and go, with hard storms beating it slowly apart. We were about an hour or so north from lunch when my GPS came in with a Severe Thunderstorm Warning! I didn’t need the device to tell me what that was about, as to the left coming over the peaks was a massive, angry looking tempest. You could see the sheets of rain quickly heading our way and the winds began to push us around in earnest. Things got worse when lightning began to strike to the right and left of the roadway. There were no gas stations, restaurant or caves in which to hide. We rode on hoping to outrun the beast, but it was quickly becoming apparent we were going to lose this one. Then, up ahead, as if by divine providence, I spotted a large building that looked like a DPW Shop. It was race at that point… Here they come, squeeze play, it’s gonna be close. Here’s the throw, here’s the play at the plate Holy cow, I think their gonna make it… The large garage door was open as was the gate and just as the storm hit, we rode into the building’s open bay,


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2017

Page 37 nestling the bikes between the wall and a large John Deer Combine. By the time we got our helmets off the storm was upon us, and all hell broke loose for about a half an hour with straight-line winds and hard driven rain inundating the valley. Half an hour later the torrent morphed into a patter and breaks of blue and sunshine could be seen over the mountains to the west. We continued onward. Now deep into the Keystone State we set our eyes to the north and made it as far as Dansville. The method to the madness – Knoebels Amusement Resort. We had featured a story on America’s Largest Free amusement park in the spring and thought a few hours riding the rides would be a nice way to begin to wind this ride down. After finding a superb breakfast in Dansville (Edith’s Kitchen) we got to Knoebels (pronounce “Kuh – Nobels”) just as the doors opened. For 90 years this place has brought smiles and maybe some upchuck to thousands of kids and kids at heart.

We had come to ride one particular ride, The Flying Turns – the only “Trackless” roller coaster in the world! We did and it was a lot like riding in West Virginia, but way too short. With some more tickets to burn we hit The Phoenix. Built in Texas in 1947 it has lived here in Pennsylvania for a few decades and is considered one of the finest and fastest examples of “wooden” coaster in the world. We agree – it’s frackin’ amazing and we liked it so much we rode it twice!


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FEBRUARY 2017 • BACKROADS We had just over a 100 miles back to New Jersey and home and we did that easily after the long days of the past week and, once again, made it home just about an hour before another lightning storm of Biblical proportions scoured the region. We drove out after it looking for a restaurant with power still on and caught a double rainbow over the farm below Backroads Central. I couldn’t think of a more fitting end to what turned out to be a wonderful romp around wild & wonderful West Virginia. Resources:

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FEBRUARY 2017 • BACKROADS

Fireside Reading

Riding motorcycles and the skill that goes with it can be broken into degrees of what is physical and what is mental. It is a good idea to keep both sharp during the winter months. This month let us look at the mental acuity aspect of riding. We have all heard that reading is fundamental and this is a true statement. We have read a few great books and we would like to recommend some. Please note that not all these books have to do with riding and techniques, but still relate directly to what we consider great riding. Reading about other’s adventures can be as much fun as the latest Clive Cussler novel. So light the fire, grab a glass of something and enjoy. Here are a few reads that we would like to suggest for this year’s fireside read…

Atlas Obscura

How to Keep your Mind on Two Wheels

The first has nothing to do motorcycles per se, except some of the places that are featured would be a lot of fun to travel to on a bike. Called an Explorer’s Guide to the World’s Hidden Wonders it is 450 pages of the wildest and mysterious places on Earth. It is an O’Life favorite. At finer books stores and the web

When the snow flies and the bikes are parked

Zero Below Zero

Last winter the crew at Aerostich put a Zero electric motorcycle to good use through the entire winter. Remember that these guys live in Duluth, where it is only summer for 1.5 weeks in July - then it snows again, so it is not like they did this in Honolulu. This experiment with the leading electric machine and the makers of the leading riding suits makes for a very interesting read. aerostich.com

How To Drive We are pretty sure you all have cars or trucks too. If you wish to be a better motorcycle rider, then you should want to be a better car driver as well, right? If the name Ben Collins does not jog your memory maybe the name The Stig will. Ben has been one of the world’s top drivers for years and was The Stig on Top Gear for many of them. Like Reg he talks a lot about being smooth and we think what works in cars, works on motorcycles and vice versa. He made driving cars fun again for us. We got our copy from that South American bookstore called Amazon.


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2017

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David Hough’s Street Riders Guide

David’s columns have long been a staple for MCN and we dare say have saved many, many lives. This guide is made up of about 100 small two-page chapters - each dealing with something unique and potentially dangerous and what we as riders can do to better our riding management, skill and outlook to overcome these dangers. The book is made in such a way that it is fun to read and if you just digest one scenario a day you will be a better thinking rider. From Motorcycle Consumers News Books

Smooth Riding the Pridmore Way

The winter time is an excellent season to look back on how you really ride your bike and just how you can go about doing it better. Smooth Riding by AMA champion Reg Pridmore is an excellent read to do just that. We are great fans of Reg’s CLASS Riding Schools and we are big fans of this book as well. Whitehorsepress.com or at www.classrides.com

The Women’s Guide to Motorcycling

Lynda Kaham’s book on women riders is a slickly put together guide to ladies and riding. It touches on a wide variety of issues and chapters and features wonderful photography as well. This is a great read for women just starting out, but seasoned female riders can get additional information in these pages as well. From Motorcycle Consumers News Books

Motorcycling the Right Way - Do This, Not That

We just featured Ken Condon’s book in our Destination: New York edition late last year but we still go back to it again and again – and this list of superb winter reads would not be complete without it. Ken’s also an alumni of MCN and now writes a monthly safety column for Motorcyclist magazine. Sometimes these motorcycle safety books will bring you the same information again and again (probably because it is accurate), but it is also the way the writer brings their points to you that matters and Ken is quite excellent at this. Autographed copies at ridingthezone.com

Total Control: High Performance Street Riding Techniques

Lee Parks has been involved in motorcycle safety and rider education for years, as well as penning for many motorcycle publications. His book Total Control offers a different approach to riding and if you are looking to take your riding to the next level of proficiency then Total Control is another excellent book to read through. Yet again …. this can be purchased from Motorcycle Consumer News Books or from those really big gals at Amazon.

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FEBRUARY 2017 • BACKROADS

No Thru Road - Confessions of a Traveling Man

One of our true favorite moto-scribes has long been Clement Salvadori, and his newest book (he has a few) is loaded with a great number of stories, anecdotes and tales of his many years of worldwide travel and adventures. Clement has long written in that magical quality that transports the reader into the story and the many tales in No Thru Road do the same thing every time. It comes highly recommended. You can buy this at whitehorsepress.com or you can get an autographed (generally illegible) copy, hand-wrapped and carried to the post office by the author. Send a check for $25 to: Trovatello Press, 8240 Toloso Road, Atascadero CA 93422

Jupiter’s Travels

This is a must read for anyone ever considering a trip around the world or just wishing they could. Ted Simon’s book is considered a classic and we have read it just a few times over the years. Covering 63,000 miles, four years and fifty-four countries, Simon’s work is as fresh today as it was back when it was first printed in 1978. This can also be found online and from whitehorsepress.com.

HARLEY AND THE DAVIDSONS • MINI-SERIES ON THE DISCOVERY CHANNEL Can this go faster? For what? it’ll be too loud, too dangerous. nobody will want it. People will want it - trust me. Back in September of 2016 The Discovery Channel aired a 3-part 6-hour mini-series called Harley and the Davidsons. Now available on DVD, Blue-ray and Digital format we finally got to sit down over three nights and watch the film. It is impossible to be a motorcyclist and not know that Harley-Davidson is arguably the most iconic and well known brand on the planet, but how many of us know the full story of how the enduring brand was born? This fact-based miniseries tells of the obstacles and risks faced by company founders Walter Davidson, Arthur Davidson and Bill Harley in the early days of the company. The men sought to build their first bikes during a tumultuous time at the turn of the 20th century, which featured great social and


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technological change. They risked everything for the venture, and it was the motorcycle that brought them together as they looked to achieve their common goal. As time went on, they fought off ruthless competitors, the depression and health and family issues on the way to building up their brand that would endure for more than a century. We knew this film was a winner when we couldn’t wait to get through “Jeopardy!” just to watch the next episode of Harley and the Davidsons. The series was beautifully filmed - and the sets, tone, and especially the bikes looked fantastic. If we have any criticism is that it was filmed in Romania. What? A mini-series about Harley-Davidson couldn’t be filmed in the United States? That being said… we think that this is a film well worth searching out whether you are a H-D enthusiast or not – as riders you will appreciate America’s motorcycle all that much more. Find it on Amazon for under $20 and belongs in any serious motorcyclists DVD collection.

X-LITE X-1004 XCOM MODULAR HELMET For those of you who are not familiar with the brand X-Lite we need you to think along the lines of some automobile manufacturers that have upscale offering from basically the same company. Honda has Acura, Toyota has Lexus and GM has Cadillac. Nolan Helmets has X-Lite. For those of you who value a modular or “flip-up” helmet you know that the Modular Wars have seen an escalation in helmet offering, quality, fit and finish. Lighter and quieter have become strong selling points, as well as style and price. Nolan Helmets, a name long synonymous with modular helmets, and their X-Lite brand has now introduced the new X-1004 XCOM Modular Helmet. This helmet will be available in three shell sizes to accommodate a full range of heads (XS-S, M-L, XL-XXL) and will be made with a Composite Fiber that will lend itself to a lightweight and sporty design. The X-1004 will carry a double European homologation P/J ECE certification as both a full-face and flip-up helmet. Like the Nolan N 104 before it, the X-1004 has a lever that locks the chin guard in the fully open position avoiding the chin guard to accidentally close and block vision. The new helmet will offer an ultra wide opening for exceptional peripheral vision, with quick release shield system and will feature the “now standard” VPS inner sunscreen that is UV400 rated. The Double Action visor mechanism allows for variable adjustments, and locks to prevent accidental opening or closing of the shield at highway speeds. The X-Lite X-1004 will utilize an efficient TVS (Touring Ventilation System) and exclusive Dual Action chin guard opening mechanism. The helmet comes ready for the N-Com X-Series communication system, making communication between helmets a breeze, it will also be compatible with the ESS Emergency Stop Signal Light System as well. On the comfort side of things the new X-1004 uses new generation Carbon Fitting Comfort Padding, Unitherm2 touring performance fabric wicks away moisture and helps maintain a constant temperature, is completely removable and washable and the removable Cheek Pads are available in variable thicknesses to customize the fit. This newest entry into the modular helmet market is both DOT Certified in US – ECE-2205 certified in Europe and seeks to raise the bar with superior quality and better price point. The solid colors will be $575, the Hi-Vis $625 and they should be in shops come early spring. Look for full review later this year.

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FEBRUARY 2017 • BACKROADS

TWO NEW ENTRIES FROM GERMANY • BMW G 310 R AND R NINET RACER With a price of just $4,995, the G 310 R is BMW’s most affordable motorcycle by far, not to mention a nimble and fun addition to the entry market. One cylinder, lightweight, powerful dynamic performance – the BMW G 310 R embodies the pure essence of a BMW roadster: it has neither too little nor too much of anything. Pragmatic in the best sense of the word, it offers precisely what is needed – for dynamic performance and comfort, both in town and out in the country. The BMW G 310 R takes these essential qualities into an engine-capacity segment that is new to BMW Motorrad. As a genuine BMW roadster it masters a range of disciplines: it is just as happy winding its way nimbly and flexibly through the narrow streets of a city as it is travelling supremely and powerfully along country roads. And thanks to its exceptionally low level of fuel consumption and a relaxed, comfortable seating position, it offers the welcome capability of being able to cover long distances. Circumstances prevented us from attending the LA media launch for this great machine that we are sure our readers wish to know more about, but we hope to get some saddle time soon. What’s not to like about the 310 - sometimes less is more. One machine that stood out to us at the New York Bike show was BMW’s R nineT Racer. The R nineT Racer invokes that classic 1970s sport motorcycle feeling and BMW is deliberately looking to arouse memories of sports motorcycles popular in the early 1970s. It looks like a great example of somebody’s long winter project – but you can buy it at your local BMW shop today. Crouched, compact and elongated, it conveys a sense of old-school sporty aspiration with its strikingly short half-fairing, hump seat, stub handlebars and set-back footrests, combining this overall impression with modern technology. In Light White non-metallic combined with decor that is reminiscent of past BMW Motorsport colors, the R nineT Racer is particularly light and athletic in appearance. The frame finished in Aluminum Silver prominently presents an architectural contrast with the black drivetrain, establishing the R nineT Racer as an old-school sports motorcycle designed for dynamic riding fun on winding roads. It is powered by the same 1170cc Boxer engine found in other R nineT models. We have not ridden this version of the R nineT – and we know there are many – so all we can say is that this is a very smart looking bike, but we can already feel ourselves pining for the superior suspension that came with the original R nineT machine - an upgraded many would gladly pay for. Sometimes less is just less.


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2017

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BACKROADS CLASS RALLY SIX DAYS THAT WILL CHANGE THE WAY YOU APPROACH RIDING… SATURDAY OCTOBER 14 - 19, 2017 Join Backroads as we make a road trip south to the borderlands of Virginia and North Carolina to attend the CLASS Motorcycle School on Monday and Tuesday October 16 & 17 at Virginia International Raceway. We will take two days to head down, two days on the track at VIR with Reg Pridmore and his talented instructors and then take two days to return back north. CLASS tuition is not cheap - $895 for the two days – save $75 if booked before February 1, 2017. The route down will be typical Backroads fashion (twisty and interesting pavement) and we will overnight Saturday and Wednesday in northern Virginia at accommodations to be announced. BUT, you will need to sign up for CLASS and make room reservations at the track for Sunday, Monday and Tuesday nights. Some of you have taken CLASS or schools similar in the past. Some of you, we think, will really enjoy this experience to be able to fine tune your riding skills even more than your already Rossi-like (?) talents. You will learn skills and attitude adjustment from Reg and crew that will translate directly to your street riding. If this sounds like something you would like to do, we can promise you the following… #1 We will have a great riding adventure during this week. Great roads, excellent hotels, awesome food and good friends! We always do. #2 It will be something you look back on later knowing that it was the most excellent of times.

#3 Your riding skills will be brought to a higher level. You will be a better all around rider - smoother, sharper and more confident. Please consider this and reserve your CLASS spot today. VIR begins room reservations on the second week of 2017– so make a note to call them ASAP. We sincerely hope you choose to join us this October for a week-long riding adventure that will be unlike any other Backroads’ experience you have had so far! Please send an email to editor@backroadsusa.com and let us know you’ll be joining us so we can keep you posted on plans.

class school • www.classrides.com virnow.com/lodging


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FEBRUARY 2017 • BACKROADS

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

Frosted & Frozen Last month we talked a bit about the Yips; the inability to perform needed tasks and the result that can play havoc with our riding skills, or lack of them. We all have the Yips from time to time and the trick is to work through them. Then there are the situations that go beyond a simple delay or inability to perform and into the realm of non-functioning and dangerous. What I am talking about is frozen. This can happen, almost always, when faced with a situation that you may not have been in before or one that might have ended badly for you in the past. Many times “frozen” is just an immediate reaction to a situation and most times experienced riders experience more a frost than a freeze, and can quickly push past the surprise and handle the task at hand. My point is it can happen to anybody. Most of the time it is fast and your skill and experience kicks in and you quickly overcome the “frost” state. But, what happens when you don’t have that experience or skill? Perhaps you are new to the game or a mentoring rider that has just begun. That’s when frost can turn to freeze, and frozen can kill you. I recently came upon a situation that, when seeing it unfolding in front of me, I knew this rider was a victim of her own mind. I was out for my own jaunt and heading to fuel up at our local petrol station and I was approaching a lighted intersection at the end of a lengthy straightaway. This is a problematic crossing and the same crossing that caused all the trouble that I wrote about in the Cooler Heads piece in this same column last October.

On the roads far right side, not quite on the shoulder, were two motorcycles, both cruisers a guy on a BMW and a lady on a smaller Suzuki machine. He was at idle directly behind and she was waving traffic around her and it was obvious that there was an issue. I pulled up and asked if there was a problem and if they needed help. He spoke with a slight European accent and stated, “It’s okay, she is just learning and is a little scared.” I looked at the woman who was not just a little scared but frozen stiff. At this point she had stopped gesturing at the traffic and was now staring straight ahead, hand grasping the grips tight enough to make a diamond. She wouldn’t even turn her hear to look at me. This was not a good situation. But, this was not my party and, other than relaying some info in these pages (okay, pontificating), I am not one to offer hard advice to riders like these at that moment. But…. If she was going to get “frozen,” at every intersection and at every light, then she needed more time off the roadways and in a parking lot. The MSF and the like are phenomenal, awesome, superb at teaching new riders the basics. But, after that, folks get a license and then get on the road. Most times it all works out and each new ride builds on itself with confidence and skill. Some need to stay on the range or parking lot until they are confident in the very basics. I do not know if this woman had taken an MSF course, or how many times


BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2017

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she had been on a motorcycle, but right then, at that moment she was a huge danger to herself and everyone else that happened to be driving by that intersection that day. Her riding friend would have done her a great service if he had brought her to a local parking lot and worked more on the basics. Sometimes I see new riders that were pressured into riding. Maybe their spouse rides or their friends ride and they feel that they should too. Some have spent years on the back and make excellent co-pilots, but that does not mean they will make great riders themselves. But, riding a motorcycle and riding it well is not something that every one can do. Newcomers to this sport should be motivated and slightly intrepid. I have always asked people that tell me that they would like to ride if they feel they are passive auto drivers or slightly more aggressive. If you are timid behind the wheel of a car then you probably will be equally as nervous on a motorcycle. Mental attitude, a touch of aggressiveness and steady state of mind will be the difference between getting frosty at times and being frozen to death.

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U P C O M I N G E VE NT S CALEND AR EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTING Every Tuesday • Two Wheeled Tuesday at Spiegel Restaurant • 26 1st Avenue, NYC. An eclectic gathering of motorcycles served with multi-cuisine meals. Kick some tires, have some couscous, enjoy the crowd • www.spiegelnyc.com • 212-228-2894 Every Tuesday • Bike Night @ The Ear Inn, 326 Spring St, NYC Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-In, Rtes. 15/206, Augusta, NJ. Tire kicking, good food and friends • www.chatterboxdrivein.com 2nd Friday April thru September 9th @ 6-8pm • 120 N. Queen Street, Lancaster, PA • The Lancaster County Motorcycle Dealers Association invites you to share their passion of riding and discover all that historic downtown Lancaster has to offer. Come socialize with other riders, eat/drink at numerous restaurants & pubs, and shop at the countless stores throughout Lancaster... all within walking distance! In addition there will be biker-related vendors and food trucks set up in Lancaster Square on Queen Street • More info: www.2FBN.com Every Saturday May thru October • Bergen County Harley Davidson Saddle Up Saturday. 9am for coffee and bagels. Ride departs at 10am. Return to the dealership for FREE food and music. Proper attire MUST be worn! No shorts or sneakers. BCHD, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenharleydavidson.com

FEBRUARY 2017 10-12 • Timonium Motorcycle Show, Maryland State Fairgrounds, Timonium, MD. Indoor show featuring Travel, Touring & Adventure area, New Product Technical Presentation & Demo Workshop, The Powersports Expo and so much more. For full details please visit the website: www.cycleshow.net • 410-561-7323

MARCH 2017 3 • 7-10pm • Martin Moto Modern Classics Kickstart Party. Music, performing artists, refreshments and the chance to stroll the show floor amid a party atmosphere • Boyertown, PA • Martinmoto.com 4 • 9am-5pm • Martin Moto 7th annual Modern Classics: widely acclaimed tribute to the great motorcycles of the 1960s, 70s, 80s and 90s. 100-bike all-brands 'by invitation only' show staged indoors in the spacious Martin Moto showroom, Boyertown, PA. For 2017, in addition to the many standard clasics in the mix, the show puts a spotlight on a group we like to call 'The Quickest and the Fastest,' a sampling of the period machines that laid claim to being the world's fastest production bike • 567 Route 100 North, Boyertown, PA 30-Aprl 2 • March Moto Madness Adventure Rally, Tellico Plains, TN. Join the Madness, a gathering of Adventurous riders from across the world. Sun, snow, rain, warm or cold. 3 nights camping, 3 breakfast, 2 dinners, coffee, fire pit, bike games, guided and selfguided rides. Great door prizes. $85 thru 3/16, $100 after. Get all the details and register @ MarchMotoMadness.com

APRIL 2017 8-9 • Eurobike 2017, a family-friendly event dedicated to European design and machines. Historic City Market, Raleigh, North Carolina. Local Saturday ride, gathering and bike show, with raffle prizes and bike show awards. Music, vendor booths, tech talks, and food. Proceeds beneit InterAct, a non-profit assisting families and victims of domestic violence. Full details and registration @ eurobikeraleigh.com 27-30 • Horizons Unlimited, Appomatox VA. Adventure Travellers Rally. Full details at www.horizonsunlimited.com/virginia

MAY 2017 7 • Ramapo MC Club Spring Charity Fun Run to benefit the Helen Hayes Rehabilitation Hospital Foundation.Sign in: 9am @ Rhodes North Tavern, 40 Orange Tpke, Sloatsburg, NY. Self-guided route along Hudson Valley’s interesting roads with stops for poker/dice/scrabble games to win prizes and support a worthy cause. Details: Richard Roberts (914) 422-1806 • rdcptrmc@yahoo.com • www.ramapomc.org 19-21 • Morton’s BMW Spring Fling Rally. Join us for a weekend of great roads, good food, interesting scavenger hunt and terrific company, all at the historic & scenic Natural Bridge Hotel, Natural Bridge, VA. Your rally fee includes vendors, route sheets, door prizes, scavenger hunt poker run with a prize for the winner, Friday Brats & Brew dinner, Saturday dinner & presentation and more. Complete info and registration on our website www.mortonsbmw.com or call 540-891-9844. 20-21 • New Sweden BMW Riders 4th Annual New Sweden 450. Start: Cycle Gear, 2070 Route 70 E, Cherry Hill, NJ • End: P.J. Whelihans, 1854 Route 70 E, Cherry Hill, NJ. 450 miles over 2 days on some of the great back roads in the Delaware Valley area. This year the route heads north into NY. To find out more, point your browser towards www.450.nsbmwr.com

18-21 • BACKROADS SPRING BREAK - ALMOST HEAVEN TOUR. Full details on backroadsusa.com/rallies.html.

JUNE 2017 5-10 • DirtDaze - Lake Luzerne, NY • 518-798-7888 • www.DirtDaze.com 6-10 • Americade - World’s largest touring rally - Lake George, NY • 518-798-7888 • www.americade.com 10-18 • Laconia Motorcycle Week - world's oldest motorcycle rally - Laconia, NH • 603-366-2000 • www.laconiamcweek.com 18 • Last Ride of the New York Cruisers. Start: Mobil gas station, Hutchinson River Parkway North, White Plains, NY • 8:30-9:30am KSU 10am. Shirt ride with lunch to fol-

What’s Happening low. For more details email: KQuinn5801@gmail.com • 914-774-4468 19 • 26th International Motorcycle & Scooter RIDE TO WORK DAY • RideToWork.org 22-25 • Thunder in the Valley, Johnstown, PA • JohnstownThunder.com

JULY 2017 8-9 • Ramapo MC Club’s 41st Annual Ramapo 500. 500 miles of gorgeous scenery and backroads, free camping, onsite trailer rentals, nearby hotels, river swimming, Saturday night dinner, awards and prizes, Sunday breakfast, starter pins and finisher patches. Sign in: RMC Clubhouse/Veterans Memorial Assoc, 66 Lake Rd, Congers, NY • 7am. Details: Fred Peck (845) 300-1247 • rmc@ramapomc.org • www.ramapomc.org

AUGUST 2017 17-20 • 3rd Annual Touratech Rally East, Huntingdon, PA. 4-day rally with opportunity for riders from around the US and the world to camp out, attend workshops and presentations, improve riding skills meet industry pros and explore fun mountain roads. Rides for different experience levels and all street-legal motorcycles are welcome. Go to www.touratechrally.com for details and signup.

SEPTEMBER 2017 21-25 • BACKROADS FALL FIESTA - NY STATE OF MIND TOUR. Full details on backroadsusa.com/rallies.html.

OCTOBER 2017 14-19 • Backroads CLASS Rally. See page 45 for details. 15 • Ramapo MC Club Fall Foliage Tour to benefit the Valerie Fund for childhood cancer research. Guided or self-guided tour along Hudson Valley’s autumn foliage roads. Sign in: Rhodes North Tavern, 40 Orange Tpke, Sloatsburg, NY @ 9am. Details: Kent Sullwold (845) 304-3454 • kms.elec.engr@gmail.com • www.ramapomc.org

POLAR BEAR SCHEDULE 2017 Bob Hartpence Chairman • 609-894-2941 • bear1733@verizon.net www.PolarBearGrandTour.com • 908-722-0128 for schedule updates

FEBRUARY 2017 5 • THE FRANKLIN HOUSE TAVERN, 101 North Market St, Schaefferstown PA • 717 949-2122 12 • O’Connor’s American Grille 1383 Monmouth Rd, Easthampton,NJ • 609-261-1555 19 • THE EXCHANGE, 160 E. Main St, Rockaway, NJ • 973 627-8488 26 • HOOTERS, 25 Rte-23 South, Wayne, NJ • 973 837-1876

MARCH 2017 5 • BAHRS LANDING, 2 Bay Ave., Highlands, NJ • 732 872-1245 12 • Lighthouse Tavern 397 Route 9, Waretown, NJ • 609-693-3150 19 • LONG VALLEY PUB, 1 Fairmount Rd, Long Valley, NJ • 908 876-1122 26 • THE CHATTERBOX, #1 Rt. 15 South, Augusta, NJ • 973 300-2300

APRIL 2017 2 • BRIAN’S HD, 600 S. Flowers Mill Rd, Langhorne PA • 215 752-9400 PA 9 • THE HICKORY BBQ SMOKE HOUSE, 743 Rt. 28 Kingston; NY • 845 338-2424 23 • CHEEBURGER CHEEBURGER, 336 Northampton St, Easton, PA • 610 438-1311 30 • CAPE MAY VFW POST# 386, 419 Congress St, Cape May, NJ • 609 884-7961 MAY 5 • END OF SEASON GET-TOGETHER • The Pic-a-Lilli Inn, 866 Route 206, Shamong, NJ • 609 268-2066 @ 11:30am. Members: $6/person

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