February 2021

W H A T ’ S

I N S I D E 23

MONT H LY C O L U M N S

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................4 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................5

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

ON THE MARK ....................................................6

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Mark Byers, Pamela Collins, Clement Salvadori, Don Toothman, Dr. Seymour O’Life

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THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD ..........................8 BACKLASH..........................................................9 INDUSTRY INFOBITES .....................................10 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA ..................................11 BIG CITY GETAWAY .........................................13

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2021. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

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FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RAThJEN

Winter Mission Yup, it’s winter. For most of us who live here in the northeast, it is sometimes, grey, sometimes sunny, sometimes wet, and sometime snowy. But, pretty much it is always cold.

Over my years of riding, I have found myself in situations that I had not anticipated. Starting at one altitude, let’s say the lowlands of eastern Colorado riding towards the Rockies or heading south towards Italy from Austria will always mean a ride that will gain more and more altitude with each mile as you head into and up the mountains.

I remember one evening we took a room near the bottom of the Reschen Pass. The day was a stunner, warm and sunny and the inn at which we stayed equally warm and inviting.

We closed our eyes with thoughts of a beautiful ride over the 5,000-foot pass dancing in our heads.

We awoke to a dark, cloudy day, a great deal colder than the previous. I sipped coffee and watched from the wide windows as the cars came down from the pass – all heavily covered with wet snow.

Not good.

Shira finally joined me and simply said, “Frack!”

Well, we did have heated gear – liners and gloves and the BMW’s had heated grips as well. But none of that mattered as we looked at the cars and small trucks coming north from Italy, where we knew it would be warm, sunny, and, well – Italy!

We went for Plan B – as you know Plan B usually stands for Backroads –

but not today. Nope, I said… “We’ll just take the Autobahn over the Alps.”

Shira’s reply was straightforward and full of that common sense that drives a guy like me nuts - “You don’t think it’s snowing on the Autobahn too?”

Maybe. But I was sure they were keeping this road clear – they’re Europeans and Austrians to boot – these people know what they are doing.

Italy? They tend to be more lackadaisical.

So, with heated gear on and all suited up, we headed towards the Autobahn that would cross the Brenner Pass. The ride to the big road was easy, fun, and dry and once on the road, heading towards Italy all seemed fine.

“See”, I said over the Senas, “No worries – easy peasy.”

About one minute later I began to see that the cars heading north were covered with snow.

“What was that?” she said with a voice mixed with smugness and a little trepidation.

Within minutes as we headed towards the highest point in the road the asphalt began to whiten up, and the flakes began to fall in earnest. A mile, or 1.60934 kilometers, later we were riding on a snow-covered highway. We tucked in behind a large truck whose tires were making the best track for which we could ask.

Glancing to the northbound lane I saw other riders motoring towards Austria. They waved, I waved; well, sort of.

Shira stated that this was much like contracting the muscles of the lip and mouth to make a partial vacuum. You get her drift.

Up ahead I spotted a fuel station, we slowly drifted to the drive into the station and parked under a large canopy free from the snowstorm.

We had coffee and weighed our options.

There was no real Plan C – we were committed to the Autobahn and the Alps.

A driver in a superb BMW M5 walked over and asked, in crisp Germantinged English, where we were headed.

“It-Lee,” I said in my best Sergeant Hulka voice.

Continued on Page 7

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2021

WHATCHATHINKIN’ ShIRA KAMIl

Vesica piscis Circles. Communities. Packs. Organizations. Clubs.

Over the many years of being on this big, round ball, we have all been involved with other human beings. As babies, we were in a nursery with other happy infants.

Then it was on to some sort of school socialization, be it sports, music, arts or whatever caught your interest. Folks reading these pages ventured towards two wheels at some point and that is where, for me anyway, many of my current friends and acquaintances have been made over the years.

The accumulation of a lifetime of people, membership cards, different hats and experiences create a variety of circles. The Vesica piscis formed by these circles may become very convoluted, as relationships between groups can be like the six degrees of Kevin Bacon. The more communities to which you belong, the fuzzier the connection between them becomes.

How many times have you been on a ride, run into someone from your past and are asked to explain exactly how you know this person. Or how about something as simple as running into a local store and seeing someone who you know you know, but just can’t place the connection. This happens to me so many times, locally, with folks from my gym. I am used to seeing them in workout gear, sweaty and out of breath, and meeting them at a grocery store or restaurant, all cleaned up, throws them out of context.

I have known Mike Mosca for very many years now. We have ridden with

Page 5 him locally, on rallies and all over the world for an awfully long time. Going back some 15 years, about when Facebook wheedled its way into our lives, I was checking out this new phenom and debating whether it was a good or back thing (the jury is still out on this one). Scrolling through some posts, I saw that my high school – Cliffside Park – had had a recent reunion. I was not one of the popular kids growing up and tended to keep to myself. My idea of being a bad girl was cutting school and heading to NYC’s many museums, usually the Metropolitan. I was not surprise that I was not on any invitation list for whatever past reunions they may have had, and I wasn’t upset about that.

I came upon one picture and called Brian over to my computer. ‘Hey, doesn’t that look like Mike Mosca?’ I asked him. He said, ‘It looks like Mike Mosca because it IS Mike Mosca.’ ‘What the heck is Mike Mosca doing at my high school reunion?’ I pondered. While I wasn’t overly fond of my high school years, I did keep my yearbook, so I scrounged around, found it and flipped to the ‘M’s. Lo and behold, there was a much younger Mike Mosca gracing my graduating class pictures. What the……?

I immediately called him, asking where he went to high school and what year he graduated. His answer confirmed the picture I saw in my book. He, too, had no clue that I had been in the same class and was equally amazed that all this time we had shared riding experiences yet knew nothing of our pasts. Sometimes our intersecting circles become quite cloudy.

I know many people who belong to different riding clubs, charitable and community service organizations, religious groups and other such gatherings. I am sure that many of their acquaintances from one group have not a clue about any of the others. Do the women in your Continued on Page 7

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FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS

ON THE MARK MARK BYERS

What Will You Do? “New normal.” I hate that misanthropic phrase, born of an equally vulgar virus. It’s supposed to make us accept whatever inconveniences and losses we must endure as a result of the pandemic. Some even suggest that society after the pandemic - and there will be an after - will be forever changed and never return to that we enjoyed previously. I suspect part of that is true: I read an article that said there will be a certain, small percentage of people who will never abandon their virus-inspired agoraphobia. If they come out in public again, they’ll be swaddled in masks and protective gear, eschew the company of others, and engage in relentless hand-washing, like Lady MacBeth trying to rid herself of the king’s blood.

But what of the rest of us? Once we’ve been sterilized and vaccinated and herd-immuned to the last person, what will WE do? Will we return to the life we enjoyed prior to March 2020, or will the stain of King Duncan’s blood forever remain on our hands as well? Some of that may be good: we can always stand to be a little more hygienic. But what of the sterility of our humanity and our relationships? Will they be equally antiseptic, or will we return to our huggy, kissy, handshaking past (if we ever really abandoned it)? Some have, some haven’t.

The central question to me is this: will we actually go and DO the things we cried most forlornly about losing, or will we just pick up where we left off, accepting the consequences of a “new normal” and forgetting what we supposedly missed? Will we actually go and visit the elderly people in our circle of friends - people we ostensibly avoided out of concern for their welfare - or will we conveniently be too busy to make the effort? Will we take those trips and motorcycle rides we moaned so vocally about missing, or will “life get in the way” in the post-COVID environment?

Will our relationships with distant friends and relatives stay conveniently distant, or will we make an extra effort to retie those binds? Will our motorcycles be packed for trips to Kansas or California? Maybe we’ll just skip the riding through the cold, icky rain and have a Zoom call instead - after all, we know how to do that and we can put up a background that makes us look like we’re at the Grand Canyon… As a species, we are inarguably lazy, so

will COVID light a fire under us or not? I sure hope so: an entire tourism industry that has taken a relentless scourging the last year certainly does.

The preservation of our humanity troubles me. We’d already started down a divided highway of humanity with the advent of email, cell phones, social media and so forth. Out of necessity, we’ve added Zoom and other interactions that allow an even greater “social distance.” I hate that term as well, not only because it is misused to describe a “physical distance” of six feet, but because it accurately describes an even greater gulf between people when interacting with other people. We were already too reticent to talk to each other in person, especially when conflict was involved. I dread the deterioration of our ability to solve interpersonal issues now. Had a FaceBook discussion lately?

So, what will you do? Will you invite the neighbors over for coffee? I am SO guilty: I realized the other day that the family who lives a hundred feet from us has never been inside our house. The neighbors whose son we drove home from the bus stop on rainy days have never been over for a drink. Friends from distant states have never graced our spare room. Don’t get me wrong: some of it is on us and some if it is on them, but will the pandemic serve as a stumbling block or a stepping stone for us to mutually rectify those situations? Will we be closer as friends and relations as a result, or will we be a video call farther away?

It doesn’t have to be like that. I’m already mentally packing saddlebags. The maps are open, online or otherwise. I have friends in Kansas I haven’t seen in almost a decade and people in Texas to whose home I have never been. What the post-pandemic “new normal” looks like is entirely on our canvas to paint. What will our pictures look like? What will you do? ,

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2021 Free Wheelin’

Page 7 Continued from Page 4

“Well, once you get through the pass it’s all downhill and you can be in sunny skies and warmth in a short bit,” he offered.

We watched other riders coming from Italy, so we would head to Italy.

Smooth and steady, riding well behind another large truck cutting a deep track in the snow, we rode over the Brenner Pass. Going up was steady, going down a little different; bringing with it a slightly raised heart rate.

But soon the snow faded and then the road was just wet, then dry – blue skies ahead and then glorious Italian sun and by the time we were out of the Alps it was in the 60s (15° - when in Rome).

This story came to mind as I was planning just a nice day run this January. It was an iffy day but reminded me that the fun doesn’t have to stop because the calendar and seasons have changed. We have the available electric heated gear, gloves, seats, and grips.

We have great weekly gatherings with the Polar Bears Grand Tour that pop up every Sunday all over the region – see their website at polarbeargrandtour.com.

And, you can always steal a short ride – even if it is just 20 or so miles – trust me; ‘it’ll be good for the soul.

Consider it a Winter Mission – that is not impossible. , Whatchathinkin’ Continued from Page 5 book club know that you take your motorcycle to the track a couple times a year to better your riding? Have the members of your choral group seen you dressed for a cross-country ride? Are the other dog owners in your Play Park aware that you might attend a rally with 50,000 like-minded motorcyclists each year in New York State? I imagine you might be surprised to find out how many of these groups have Vesica piscis in common.

Here’s to a great year. Let’s get out and do all those things that weren’t done last year. Let’s expand our circles and, perhaps, bring some of your intersecting groups together and introduce them to the wonderful world of motorcycling. If we’ve learned anything from 2020 it’s that each day is precious, each moment should be savored and don’t wait to do all those things that you said you’ll do ‘one day’. Let’s have fun in ’21. ,

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FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS

THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD turning 100,000 Miles The odometer on my 2002 Honda ST1100 turned 100,000 the other day.

I’m sad the odometer has six digits, rather than five, or I could put a couple of thousand miles more and then sell it as a barely used classic. I think it was back in the late 1980s that the automotive world began rethinking the number of miles a motorcycle, or car, could rack up in a lifetime. Before that odometers went to 99999, and then back to 00000.

I’ve owned a couple of dozen bikes in my brief life, beginning with a 1954 NSU 250 Max, having a VDO speedometer which went up to 140 kilometers an hour, or roughly 85 mph. And a five-digit odometer. Next was a Sunshine Yellow 1951 Indian Chief with an optimistic 120 mph Stewart-Warner gauge, and a six-digit odometer — except that sixth number was tenths of a mile.

Third was a new 1960 Triumph T120 Bonneville, with a nice pair of Smiths gauges up front, the speedo having a five-digit odometer and a four-digit tripmeter - that fourth digit being in tenths. None of those bikes racked up many miles with me in the saddle, as I was too busy going to school and working.

Half a dozen Brit bikes took me thru the 1960s, and then I bought a new BMW in 1972, quit my job a year later, rode it around the world, and sold it in ‘75 with over 50,000 very beat-up miles. A couple more Beemers followed, and then I was offered a job at a motorcycle magazine, Road Rider, in California. “We don’t pay much, but you have all the motorcycles you want to ride.” Over the next seven years I threw a leg over the saddle of just about every test bike that came into the garage, some I rode cross-country, others, an afternoon on local winding roads. I was what we call an editorial wife, going into the office when I wasn’t off riding.

Clement Salvadori Then the magazine got sold, and the new publisher and I did not quite see eye to eye, so I said goodbye and went free-lance. A year later the owner of Rider magazine asked me to write a column, Road Tales, and then a second, Retrospective. My status was that of a contributing editor, sort of like a mistress, which meant I could work from home. But still get test bikes, though with the magazine being over 100 miles away, I got maybe two a month.

Which meant having a really rideable personal bike was important.

This is my second ST, by the way. The first one I bought in 1992, and I loved the saddle, the ergos, and the 7.4 gallon gas tank under my butt.

Mileage averages about 45 per gallon, so that’s a 300-mile tank — though I usually fill up at 250. Good fairing, good saddlebags, an excellent aftermarket luggage rack made by Lakewood Honda in Denver and a Bagster tankbag, both of which have been on both bikes..

Ten years went by, the original ST’s odometer climbed to 88 thousand, and I called up Honda in 2002 to make a deal on a new one. Yes, we journalists could make deals. The person I called whispered over the phone that they were coming out with a new model next year, which I would like even better.

So on a hot summer weekend in 2003 I rode an ST1300 up to Laguna Seca, and back. And got first degree burns on my right thigh ... a problem which they quickly fixed. But I called up Honda and said I wanted an ST1100, thankyouverymuch.

They were all sold out, but my contact said there was an executive bike still around, meaning one ridden by Honda executives and not abused by the press. Good used price. Now, recently retired, I’m sort of a journalistic whore, being able to write for anybody who wants my drivel, but I have to use my own bikes, plus pay for gas and tires. The current stable is small, with Sue’s Ninja 500, my ‘06 Triumph T100 Bonneville, my ‘15 Suzuki DL650 WeeStrom, and the ST. I ride most every day, and they all get weekly outings.

I’ve looked at, and ridden, most of the bikes that could replace the ST, but have not liked any as much.

Runs well, but the bike has become a bit heavy for a person in his late middle age, like me, to pick up. The resale value is probably quite low, so maybe I’ll just ride cautiously and run up another 100,000. ,

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2021

Page 9

BACKLASH Hi Guys, I love your magazine! Almost as much as I love NW Jersey, after years of dissing the entire state! Anyway, please accept my apology. Your recent piece about the Skylands Loop highlighted a favorite riding destination. For my money, Northwest Jersey rivals many top areas in the Northeast. Anyway, I’d like to subscribe. Is there an online link or do you need a check?

Regards and be safe, Wayne sachs Wayne, Thanks for acknowledging the awesomeness of our backyard. It is why we chose it for Backroads Central – our realtor had our number, for sure, when taking us the ‘long way’ to almost every viewing.

Subscriptions are available for purchase through our website with PayPal or Square: www.backroadsusa.com/subscriptions.html or you can do it the old fashioned way with a check and mail the $40 to Backroads, PO Box 620, Augusta, NJ 07822.

Hi Guys, First of all, I’d like to tell you how much I enjoy reading your magazine “like a kid at Christmas” every time that white envelope shows up in my mailbox.

I’ve been a subscriber since February of 2020, and I paid for my subscription with PayPal. My understanding is that it automatically renews for the second year. What confused me is that I received a postcard in the mail with the “one issue left” message. Do I need to do anything to renew my subscription? I don’t want to screw up my subscription, and I don’t want to miss any issues. Please let me know if I need to do something to insure continued happiness.

Best regards, Bob Bednar • skylands BMW riders Bob, First, thank you for the kind words. We like playing Santa Claus.

Letters to the Editor Let me explain, as this has always been a bit confusing. Our renewal postcards automatically go out when renewals are due – the computer isn’t smart enough (or we aren’t smart enough to know how to program it) to distinguish between automatic renewals or not. If we could only find a 20-something to come in and show us, we’d be all set.

You are good to go for another year of White Envelope Delivery.

Happy New Year and we’ll see you on the road. Be well.

I’m a long time reader of your magazine, since its inception. You guys let me know about White’s Ferry years ago in one of your ride articles. Just wanted to pass this along. Great magazine you’ve got.

Regards, tim Brogan WHITE’S FERRY CEASING OPERATIONS IMMEDIATELY White’s Ferry regrets to inform the public that it will cease its Potomac River ferry operation between White’s Ferry Road in Montgomery County, Maryland and White’s Ferry Road in Loudoun County, Virginia effective immediately. The Circuit Court of Loudoun County, Virginia has ruled, in the case of Rockland Farm, LLC, et al. v. White’s Ferry, Inc., that no public landing exists on the Virginia shoreline at White’s Ferry Road and the ferry is prohibited from landing at that location in Virginia. As of the date of this press release Loudoun County, Virginia has declined to establish a public landing at that location.

Tim, So very sorry to hear this. Was always a favorite along our rides. Thanks for sharing and a very Happy New Year to you.

The Backroads Report Hi Brian and Shira, Got my Saturday TBR. Great idea, but “Whoa Momma, a lotta work,” at least for some Golden aged, non-smartphone-ish, Luddite like myself.

Continued on Page 10

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FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS

IN DU STRY INFOBITES U.S. HELMET USE TREND HIGHER Helmet use by U.S. motorcyclists has trended higher over the past decade, according to a new government survey. The NOPUS is conducted by NHTSA on an annual basis and the findings of the survey over the past ten years show a gradually increasing trend in the use of helmets by motorcycle riders. According to the NHTSA survey, helmet use nationwide increased among motorcyclists from 54.3% of all riders (including passengers) in 2010 to 70.8% in 2019. In states with a mandatory helmet law, helmet use among riders was 89.2% in 2019, while in all other states — those that only require helmet use for specific riders, helmet use was 56.5%.

ALONG THAT LINE… MOTORCYCLE FATALITIES CONTINUE TO DROP Preliminary estimates of 2019 highway crash data released by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) in October indicate that motorcyclist deaths continue to decline even as vehicle miles traveled or VMT increases.

Motorcyclist fatalities fell 0.5% to 5,014 last year, a third consecutive year of declines in rider road deaths, amid an overall 2% decline in vehicle fatalities in 2019 (from 36,835 in 2018 to 36,096 in 2019).

So far for 2020, data indicates a 3.3% decrease in motor vehicle fatalities through the second quarter, though notably total traffic volume decreased by more than 16% in the first half of the year during the Coronavirus pandemic.

BUT STILL… DRIVER WHO LEFT SCENE OF FATAL MOTORCYCLE CRASH SENTENCED TO OVER A DECADE IN PRISON

A 59-year-old man from Middlesex County was sentenced to 11 years in state prison on Tuesday for leaving the scene of a fatal hit-and-run crash that killed a 25-year-old motorcyclist, authorities said.

Peter Prete of Jamesburg was sentenced by Superior Court Judge Andrea Carter on the second-degree charge of knowingly leaving the scene of a motor vehicle crash resulting in death and third-degree hindering his own apprehension, according to Middlesex County Prosecutor Yolanda Ciccone and South Brunswick Police Chief Raymond J. Hayducka. The Aug. 8, 2019, col-

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News from the Inside lision resulted in the death of Cory M. Holsten, 25, of the Dayton section of South Brunswick, Ciccone and Hayducka said.

Upon his release from prison, Prete also will be subject to a one-year loss of license for having left the scene of the crash.

TEACHING MOTORCYCLES TO COMMUNICATE In an international effort to improve road safety for motorcyclists, a number of motorcycle manufacturers are co-operating to connect motorcycles with other vehicles and infrastructure.

In the Connected Motorcycle Consortium (CMC), motorcycle manufacturers BMW, Honda, KTM and Yamaha work together to develop new standards and techniques to connect motorcycles with other vehicles and infrastructure.

The first goal was to define a first ‘basic specification’ for motorcycles to connect and ‘talk the same language’ to other vehicles or infrastructure by means of wireless communication. The next move will be CMC ‘NEXT’ with a wider scope, as motorcycle experts will be looking at further improvements of the specification while at the same time taking account of new functions supported by on-board sensors both in cars and in motorcycles.

Researchers point to the value of intelligent speed controllers.

ED Note: Speed Controllers? As Sam Winchester would say… “Screw You!”

JURY FINDS MYRTLE BEACH GUILTY OF RACIAL DISCRIMINATION The city of Myrtle Beach, South Carolina, was motivated by race when it created a new traffic plan designed to “suck the fun” out of Black Bike Week, a federal jury has found.

Civil rights groups accused the city of racially discriminating against the Black tourists by treating them differently than white bikers who attend Harley Week earlier each May, citing in particular a 23-mile one-way noexit traffic chute that funnels them out of town during the peak nights of Atlantic Beach Bikefest, otherwise known as Black Bike Week. The city also puts up barricades and increases its police presence in ways that don’t apply to the mostly white bikers during their event, NAACP attorneys said.

The jurors, five black and four white, deliberated for more than three hours before delivering their verdict, on December 10, agreeing that “race was a motivating factor,” but they also sided against the black bikers, saying Myrtle Beach probably “would have made the same decision anyway, even if it had not considered race in its official actions regarding Black Bike Week.”

Backlash Continued from Page 9 Last month I turned down an “offer” from a search committee to captain a motorcycle magazine, saying I’m “too old, too lone-wolfish and still in the movement mode versus the keyboard/screen mode,” so I say “good on ya both” to be able to travel and publish!

When I started ADVENTURE MOTORCYCLE (now ADV MOTO) I turned down the Editor job, but left the then owner with a business plan and layout telling him to “sell dreams,” and look at how Larry Flint did it, and then I took a sabbatical (which I am still on), although the mag changed hands.

Let me know if I can help ‘pimp’ BR or TBR. I’m not on a sabbatical from upscale pimping nor too old to do so. LOL. Best, Dr. gregory W. Frazier

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2021

Page 11

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERI OU S AMERIC A the lost turnpike oF pa How could a state as big as Pennsylvania lose a 13-mile stretch of Interstate highway?

Well, on purpose.

Back in July, in our 25th Anniversary edition, I talked about the oldest rock in Maryland – perhaps the United States - that is 4.3 billion years old and can be found at the Visitor’s Center at Sideling Hill.

But… there is another reason, before the massive explosion that cleared away one of the most amazing bits of Interstate in the nation, that makes this region worth a visit while exploring Mysterious America.

It had to do with some of the largest man-made explosions on public land since the Atomic Bomb testings.

Well, why did they blow it up? They had to.

Originally, they thought that the tunnels, already there to facilitate the old railroad, would work just fine for automobile traffic, but the Sideling Tunnel and the others along this mountainous stretch of the Keystone state fell far short.

The Sideling Hill Tunnel is 6,782 feet long (nearly a mile and a half). It’s big, but not wide. It was the longest of the original tunnels on the Pennsylvania Turnpike. But skinny.

The Pennsylvania Turnpike Commission started construction on a new toll highway from Carlisle to Irwin in 1938. When the Pennsylvania Turnpike opened on October 25, 1940, the Sideling Hill Tunnel was one of the seven original tunnels along the highway, six of which were built from the old railroad tunnels from the 1880s. The Allegheny Mountain Tunnel was constructed from scratch rather than from the tunnels because of structural concerns.

The Post WWII Baby Boom happened and the automobile became a huge part of American life. Soon the eastbound traffic at the Laurel Hill tunnel would back up during the summer weekends like Route 15 in northwest New Jersey on a Friday night.

By 1958, the Laurel Hill tunnel experienced congestion anytime from June to November. Because of the

Page 12

FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS the studies were completed, the decision was made to go ahead with a 100 million dollars construction project to work with the tunnels.

(Where is Dr. Evil when you need him?)

Construction began on September 6, 1962, with the first subproject being a bypass of the Laurel Hill Tunnel. On October 30, 1964, just two years after construction began, the Laurel Hill Bypass was completed and opened. The Laurel Hill Tunnel was permanently closed on that day. However, this was not the last bypass to occur for tunnels along the turnpike. Two years after the closing of the Laurel Hill, the Allegheny Mountain became the first tunnel to be twinned and opened on August 25, 1966. With the twinning of the Blue Mountain, Kittatinny Mountain, and Tuscarora Mountain tunnels under construction, the Commission turned its focus to the remaining two mainline tunnels, the Rays Hill Tunnel (the shortest tunnel) and the Sideling Hill Tunnel (the longest tunnel).

Today you can ride to this abandoned stretch on Interstate, park the bikes and do a bit of hiking. This is about as close to a Walking Dead experience you can have – sans the flesh-eating zombies. It is something unexpected, strange, and odd and certainly part of our Mysterious America.

O’Life Out! ,

long bottlenecks, the Commission started looking into ways to remove the congestion. Some studies began in the mid-1950s to decide on what to do with the tunnels. The studies looked into the major tunnels, the Laurel Hill and the Allegheny Mountain, and the possibility of adding a second tube, or ‘twinning” them. “ Studies were completed for the remaining five mainline tunnels to determine the cost-benefit of twinning of the tunnels, or complete bypass. After

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2021

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Hudson Valley Motorsports Presents

B IG CITY GETAWAY the British inVasion Meets aMerica at orlanDo’s the ace caFé Pamela Collins Once upon a time in England, a class of British bikers liked their motorcycles fast and chopped, their music rolling and rocking, and their lifestyle rough and tumbled.

Their “look” — a uniform of slick pompadour hair, black leather jackets, rolled-cuff Levis, and engineer boots. They called themselves “rockers,” moody and tough, philosophically opposed to the preppier, proper ‘other’ group of twowheeled enthusiasts known as “mods.” The bloody-good favorite hangout for these dodgy blokes? The Ace Café, their British, badass, biker-friendly home-away-from-home.

Americans seeking to recreate this British bad-boy vibe don’t have to cross the pond anymore or muck about in notoriously gloomy English weather. Instead, just point the handlebars southward toward the Sunshine State, for the Ace Café’s American counterpart resides in exceptionally non-gloomy Orlando, Florida.

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind The American Ace opened in 2017. Though new, it feels like it’s weathered years-worth of motor oil drips and tire-eating burnouts within its two-story, woodfloored, and brick-walled interior. It wears the patina of a worn-in, history-laden landmark, as if the long backstory of its across-the-pond counterpart somehow jumped time and space, infusing this new version with old-school British motorcycle soul.

The backstory of the original London-based Ace begins in 1938 when it served up petrol and food 24 hours a day to a newly mobile two-and

Page 14 four-wheeled traveler. Damaged by World War II air raid bombings, it changed locations, rebuilt and reopened in 1949. Successive years saw it grow and prosper as the “rockers” numbers grew, adopting the Ace as their preferred hangout.

According to the Ace official history, “the post-war increase in road traffic and advent of the “teenage” phenomena saw the Ace booming, and with it, the arrival of the “Ton-Up-Boys”. The British motorcycle industry was at its peak, and along came Rock ‘n’ Roll. Not played on radio stations, initially, the only place it could be heard was at fairgrounds or on jukeboxes at transport cafes. It became the place to meet, have a meal or cup of tea, arrange runs (often to other cafes or the coast), or simply to mend your bike.”

“Ton-Up Boys” describes a subgroup of the thrill-seeking British café racer/riders trying to break 100 miles per hour on their bikes, quite a feat for the day. Many a British motorcycle racer started his career while hanging at the Ace, as did several bands, and it served as the setting in a famous English motorcycle-themed movie called The Leather Boys.

Slow business forced its closure in 1969, but it kickstarted back to life in 2001, rebuilt at its original location, and today its retro aesthetics enjoy a renaissance of appreciation.

The American Ace location continues the original version’s tradition of being the local hangout for all things motor-related and provides the Orlando area with a place that welcomes all gearheads and grease monkeys who

FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS

appreciate two- and four-wheeled rolling stock. It continually hosts meets and events ranging from Bike Nights to Mercedes and Porsche Meets to Mopar Night and Hogs and Hotrod events and often features live music. During these events motorcyclists and drivers fill its parking lot with their rides of choice, everyone eyeing and appreciating each other’s’ vehicles in the warm Florida weather. Triumph motorcycles, fittingly, recently included it as a stop on their Best of the British new bike introduction tour.

Inside motorcycle artwork and memorabilia decorate the brick walls, and it oozes an aesthetic of old-industrial meets garage repair shop meets cafeteria. The Ace features a full bar with varied American-style selections; fish and chips seem to be the only dinner that crossed the pond onto their menu.

So, mate, if you’re looking to sample some authentic British motorcycle vibes, bloody well get yourself over to the U.S. version of the Ace Café, located at 100 West Livingston Street in Orlando, www.AceCafeUSA.com. ,

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2021

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G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN WanaMakers general store

building and he and his wife Mariah ran a store and women’s hat shop until 1905 when Hoppes’ son-in-law, Irwin P. Reinhart, opened Reinhart’s Store. This was a success and he and his wife Minnie put on a frame addition in 1917. The store passed to their son Claude in 1929 and he ran it until his death in 1978. Reinhart’s heirs sold the building to David and Deborah Bond in 1979 when it became Wanamakers General Store. After 25 years of hard work, the Bonds closed the store in 2003, which sat unoccupied until 2007 when Tim and Arian Hungaski (Arian worked at the store while attending college, where she met and married Tim) purchased and renovated Wanamakers, opening the doors in 2008. In 2018 Kyra Hendricks, who started at Wanamakers in 2011 as manager, became sole owner. Kyra has continued serving the community as Wanamakers remains a place for people to gather, feel at home and find great local products – everything from organic produce to creative and fun toys – as well as some tasty sandwiches, soups and salads and a damn good cup of Joe and homemade desserts.

We wandered in through the back with shelves of interesting and amusing toys, past the inner store with trinkets, collectibles and whatnots, and around the corner into the deli/grocery proper. It was a great mix of anything you might want for your pantry, along the lines of Whole Foods but a much more comfortable and friendly atmosphere. Heading to the counter, we saw that one of the specials that day was liverwurst on white or rye with mayo, pickled red onion and lettuce – not something you see everywhere. If that wasn’t to your lik-

8888 KING’S HIGHWAY, KEMPTON, PA 610-756-6609 • wanamakersgeneralstore.com Having put many a ride together over the past 25 years, we know that it is sometimes difficult to pair fabulous roads with necessary stops such as food and fuel.

There have been many a time that we’ve been out riding for hours without passing either, but we certainly had smiles on our faces from the riding, even if our tanks and tummies were empty.

There is almost nothing better on rides like these than finding a simple general store that will make a simple sandwich with a simple bottle of water before heading off again. Well, we’re here to tell you about a not-so-simple general store with SO much more than a simple sandwich and bottle of water.

While this was not a spontaneous stop on the day we visited, it certainly was an oasis. We were on our way back from an impromptu Shippensburg PA weekend with friends. On an anomalous day, Brian was not in the lead as we were following John on a very fun and spirited ride through the Pennsylvania countryside. It was at the point where the rest of the group would continue south and Brian and I would head north that we stopped for a bite to eat.

Pulling up to Wanamakers General Store, we knew immediately we were in for a treat.

Wanamakers General Store dates back to 1886 (actually, the building goes back to 1876 when the brick portion of the store was built using local clay). Elias Hoppes bought the

THANK YOU FOR YOUR CONTINUED SUPPORT We hope to see you soon!

OPEN FOR DINE-IN or TAKEOUT. Visit webpage for menu See daily specials on Facebook.

Curbside Delivery Available.

Tues: 4-9 • Wed: 12-9 • Thurs-Sat: Noon-10 Sun: Breakfast 9-1/ Lunch-dinner Noon-8

RivertonHotelandRestaurant

the riverton hotel and restaurant At Belvidere-Riverton Free Bridge, Riverton, PA

610-498-4241 • www.rivertonhotel.net

tasty places to take your bike

Member of

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FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS

ing, you could have just about any other deli meat and cheese combo imaginable on bread or in a wrap, salad or homemade soup. Some of their specialty sandwiches include the Mark Special: grilled chicken, bacon, melted swiss, onion, lettuce, tomato and honey mustard on a toasted onion Kaiser roll, the Jalapeno Beast Wrap: roast beef, pepper jack cheese, bacon, jalapenos, lettuce, tomato, onion and horseradish mayo or the Hot Mess: chicken, cheddar cheese, bacon jalapenos, lettuce, tomato and ranch dressing. There are vegan and gluten-free options and daily specials. Your beverage selection goes far off the water path with Boylan’s sodas, juices, and fresh hot coffee.

Collect your order and head back to the register where you’ll pass the homemade cookies, cakes and pies. I was taken in by the Whoopee pies and just HAD to have one to share with the group, of course. There are a couple of tables out back, as well as the old railroad station which deserves a peak before or after your meal.

(During non-covid times, they do have indoor tables as well).

Wanamakers General Store is in a wonderful part of Pennsylvania for exploring and enjoying a great day’s ride. Here is the 200-mile ride from Shippensburg, PA to Stockton, NJ: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/na5s7p We invite you to take a step back in time to Wanamakers. You’ll be glad you did. ,

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2021

WE’RE OUTTA HER E cariBBean court Boutique resort 1601 OCEAN DRIVE, VERO BEACH, FLORIDA 32963 772-231-7211 • thecaribbeancourt.com When it comes to our We’re Outta Here column we try to bring you places that are maybe a tad different and we have found that they can be on the main road, yet still off the beaten path.

Such is this month’s offering - Caribbean Court Boutique Resort.

Shira came across this gem while we were quickly planning a fast run down to the Sunshine State. I will readily admit the moniker “boutique” usually puts me off, but Shira promised I would love this hotel, so I never even brought it up on my Mac. Surprises are fun and good for the soul. The Caribbean Court Boutique Resort is good for the soul.

Rolling off Ocean Drive, that run, remarkably along the Atlantic, was like pulling into a slightly different Florida – maybe one from a stellar past.

If I had been told we were 90 miles south of Key West I would have believed it.

Over the years, the owner Boris Gonzalez, has transformed an old compound of buildings into one of the prettiest and most comfortable places we have stayed in the state.

After checking in and being given a short tour of the exquisite grounds, we were led to our room, which was large, comfortable, and poolside.

Always a plus.

After settling in we spent an hour swimming in the hotel’s exquisite tiledecorated in-ground pool located at the center of the resort and then, with the arrival of our friend Larry Mosca, we headed for dinner at the Caribbean Court’s in-house restaurant the Maison Martinique – repeatably named as one of Vero Beach’s best restaurants.

They have outdoor seating as well as several large rooms. We sat within view of the largest, in what they like to call the Al Capone seat as you can see all that goes in but have your back to the wall, and it made for a serious great setting for a Christmas Eve dinner of fish and prime rib. Awesome.

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a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads

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After dinner, we scrambled to the Havana Nights Piano Bar that was atop the beautiful tile steps. That night a great singer and accompanying guitarist played for hours. It was Christmas Eve and pretty much perfect, even if the temperatures were dropping steadily and it would soon be the coldest Christmas in Florida in 42 years.

Of course, it was going to be.

Nightcaps of bourbon were had by the pool as the weather came in and we headed to bed. We were, remarkably, up before dawn for the quick stroll to the beach to watch the Christmas sunrise, along with the fishermen who had bundled up looking for a holiday dinner.

Although it was Christmas morning, and a special day no matter if you be-

FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS

lieve in Santa or not, I am pretty sure dawn at the Caribbean Court is stunning every day. Upon returning to the room, we found The Caribbean Court had dropped off an ample basket for breakfast and the room’s Starbucks coffee got our day going well.

If you are a beach bum, they have chairs, umbrellas, and bicycles for your use. If you would simply like to grab a quiet spot and read a book, there are many from which to choose. Should the very nice breakfast basket not satisfy, you can have a more substantial breakfast and/or lunch at The Cup of Starbucks, a little bistro setting outside Maison Martinique.

As it was Christmas Eve, the rate was a bit more than we would normally spend, but worth every penny. Having restaurant, bar, pool and beach at your door with such luxurious accommodations, splurging every once in a while is a good thing. Rates are normally $200 and up, depending on season and day of week.

When in the central part of the Sunshine State spin

by Vero and the Caribbean Court – it is an oasis from the past and a wonderful find in our minds. ,

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2021

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MattY’s gelato FactorY 867 DONALD ROSS ROAD, JUNO BEACH, FL 33408 561-557-3539 • mattysgelatofactory.com • OPEN DAILY @ 2PM I had used up all my ice cream containers, had run through my litany of flavors and was just about done with making ice cream for a while. I needed someone else’s tastes, ideas and inspiration.

And this month’s inspiration comes from the south, pretty far south from Backroads Central. During our covid Christmas cruise to the Sunshine state, we were introduced to a delightful little shop in Juno Beach.

We were scheduled to do a little baseball tour in the spring but, ju-know. It so happened that Roger Dean Stadium, spring training camp to the Miami Marlins and Cardinals, resides in Jupiter, very close to where our friends Mindy and Ken live. We weren’t allowed in, but at least were able to see some green turf and stadium seats. Not only have I been friends with Mindy and Ken for a very long time, we share a love/hate relationship with the New York Metropolitans. Apparently Keith Hernandez, who also shares a love/hate relationship with the New York Metropolitans, has a home in this same area. Keith Hernandez, Ron Darling and Gary Cohen are the very colorful commentators on SNY-TV. Keith has some very definite likes and dislikes, and apparently ice cream is on his ‘like’ list. Ken informed me that Keith has mentioned Matty’s Gelato Factory as being one of the best he’d ever had. While I have questioned Keith’s spoutings in the past, I am not one to poopoo an ice cream or gelato suggestion, so off we went.

Brief lesson in gelato vs. ice cream: both use cream, milk and sugar but gelato uses more milk and less cream than ice cream and no egg yolks (usually, but depends in which region in Italy you are having yours). Gelato uses 4 to 9 percent fat compared to ice cream’s 10-25 percent (practically a diet food, I’d say) and contains less air, making it dense, fluid and creamy. Lastly, gelato should be served at a warmer temperature than ice cream, which brings out more intense flavors.

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Matthew Cairo, owner and gelato chef at Matty’s Gelato Factory, was born and raised in south Florida. He started his path to gelatomaking by living in New Haven, Connecticut and studying with an Italian gelato master, where he gained experience making, tasting and perfecting his gelato practice. Leaving nursing school and coming back home to Florida, he set up shop at the age of 22 in Juno Beach in 2017 in a small strip mall where he has brought hand-crafted goodness to all who enter his shop. Not only will you find some of the best gelato, you’ll have it served with a smile by their very friendly staff. As the saying on the wall state, ‘May you enter as guests and leave as family.’

Matty changes his flavors up daily, so you’ll always have something fresh and new for your taste buds. There are typically about 30 different daily flavors including sugar-free, non-dairy and vegan offerings. I had to have the Candy Cane (I always try for this around Christmas time) and OMG Coffee Chocolate Mascarpone, which I was told is one of their best sellers along with Chocolate Fudge Brownie, Stracciatella and Blood Orange Raspberry sorbet. I know, they really don’t sound like they’d go together, but each were equally delicious. Other samplings were Salted Caramel, Key Lime, Betterfinger and, of course, Cookies and Cream. Matty’s personal favorites are peanut butter chocolate, strawberry and pistachio. They have pre-made gelato pies and sammies or you could customize your own sammies on the spot.

No matter what your go-to flavor may be, Matty’s will surely have something to tickle your fancy. If Travel & Leisure and Food & Wine magazines consider them the Best in the State, who’s to argue with that? And if you don’t put any stock in print magazines (phooey on you) then Yelp has them ranked as 5th out of 100 in the whole United States. There’s plenty of parking and tables outside to relax and enjoy. Or you can take your cup or cone and take a nice stroll to the Loggerhead Marinelife Center on U.S. 1. Enjoy and say hi to Matty for me. ,

FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2021

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The Law Office of Paul G. Gargiulo Presents

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival spit and polish Do you know water is 80% of our body? 75 % of our brain.

I have a brilliant friend of mine, David, who had talked about how everything is water-based, especially the brain. Surely electrons firing… but dry the brain out just a little bit and bad things happen quickly.

When your brain is functioning on a full reserve of water, you will be able to think faster, be more focused, and experience greater clarity and creativity.

Hydration is key.

I have little stickers around the office that simply say, “Drink More Water!” I know I drink more water while riding than at home or the office – even with the reminder stickers.

The CamelBak, my little watery backpack, is a constant riding companion and although it only takes a big bottle of Dasani to fill it up, my thought is at most larger fuel stations, if I load up two motorcycles with fuel, I expect two more things - a clean bathroom and no dirty looks when I open my CamelBak up and fill it with ice from the Slurpee machine.

Especially in the warmer months, the ice water can work all day and hundreds of miles. Cold, refreshing and right there all the time.

Other than keeping us alive, hydrogen and oxygen add other points to our life.

I was watching one of the last MotoGPs back in early November. Although these racers run in the sun and the rain it, especially this year in Europe, was mostly a Mr. Blue Skies season.

But open practice on this Saturday was a soaking event. I watched how these riders seemed to effortlessly negotiate a rain so hard it was running in small streams down the track. The commentators brought up how much rain these bike’s rain tires were displacing at certain speeds.

Amazing in so many ways.

There seemed a time that if we started the motorcycles the clouds would immediately begin to build and the foul weather would arrive. We have said that starting out in the rain is not the same as getting caught in the wet.

We have done both umpteen times. Either way, it does not bother me as much as it once did. You could think of this as both a blessing and a curse.

How so?

Some refuse to ride in the rain. For us, we are not all

that happy, but it is a comfort thing, not a skill or safety issue. Riding in the rain is part of riding motorcycles. Keep me warm and I am okay. If I get cold - things go south.

I think that riding in the rain forces you to be more precise, thoughtful and smooth.

The first time that I rode on a track in the rain I was a bit stunned at how easy it was. My wet track time was always more thoughtful, less charging and I was certainly still in easy control. I was surprised how much I enjoyed it.

Our group that day was not all that eager to get onto the track, but by lunch all were smiling, smoother and far more confident riders.

Spit and Polish, baby!

Surely water can be our friend in other ways as well and for the obvious reasons. Everything needs a bath now and again.

I was following Shira a few weeks back and I got a close look at just how dirty the years and the miles have been on this decades old machine. Not regular road grime, but simply the years.

Water, once again, was the answer.

So one Indian summer afternoon, while she was making some incredible ice cream with flavors only a German geneticist could dream of - I went out and really, REALLY cleaned her Honda 919.

A few hours later it looked… well, better. But the close-up cleaning process brought small things to my attention. The rusted bolt, the missing grommet, the hairline crack and some other things.

Nothing major, but things that would need to be addressed.

I am her Pit Boy and love my job.

So, my thought this month is to embrace the wet. It can make us better, smoother and happier riders, it can keep our bodies and minds running sharp and can also let us know when things are amiss and some changes need to be made.

Perhaps a bit of spit will give you a bit of polish. ,

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PRODUCT REVIEW

FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS

AMPLINK • CLEAN, CONTROLLABLE POWER WHERE AND WHEN YOU NEED IT

We have become sticklers on correctly wiring “Farkles” on any of the machines we use – personal or test bikes. Nobody wants a hot electrical incident. Years back we began using dedicated fuse blocks to make installation easier – and it was – but you still had to bring fuses along and access the block if there was an issue.

Then we discovered Rowe Electronics and their PDM Unit - Power Distribution Module. It’s tiny, solid-state, and userfriendly and we have had them on several machines.

Rowe has now raised the bar on themselves with the introduction of their Amplink. Built on the strong reputation of the original Rowe electronics PDM60, the Amplink PDM maintains the total current capacity of 60 amps over 6 outputs.

With the previous unit, you could change settings and amperage with a laptop – but with the Amplink all you need is your phone. It seems everything works through your phone these days – with varying results – but it is a breeze to program and view the status of your circuits on your phone with the Amplink. You’re able to configure individual circuit amperage limits, individual circuit triggering methods, circuit delay activation, and delay-off settings.

The Amplink provides 6 individual circuits, with a total load handling capability of 60 Amps; that’s a lot of heated gear and auxiliary lighting. The electronics are solid-state for reliability and circuits will automatically shut off in the event of an overload or short.

Installation is fairly easy and the hardest part was where to mount the Amplink on the already tight confines of a

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BMW R1250GS. We removed the seat and rear brackets and found the perfect spot with easy access to a triggering power supply wire (gray w/ red strip to the tail light on this GS). In our mind disassembling and reassembling the bike took far longer than the Amplink set-up.

The unit is designed to connect directly to a primary (12V) power source (RE: your battery), and efficiently power, protect and monitor the supply of power to your electronic devices. Rowe’s Amplink was designed with one goal in mind: to provide years and years of superior, hassle-free performance. The Amplink is fully encapsulated to protect against rain, dust, humidity, etc. Whether it’s motocross, or cross-country via interstate, these units are built to last under the harshest of conditions.

When done and having several accessories mounted and powered, I went into the app and renamed them – Radar, GPS, Hornet, cell phone, etc… I then programmed in the power I wanted each to be able to draw. In the future, if there is an issue or short we will know exactly where to look saving time and stress – especially on the road.

The Amplink is brilliant and a very worthy investment if you are going to be installing gadgets, gizmos, and farkles on your ride. The Amplink will run around $250 and you can log onto the Rowe website for more information • www.rowe-electronics.com ,

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2021

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Fall Fiesta 2020 words: Brian Rathjen • images: Brian Rathjen + Lisa Mutchler

Life is just a tire swing…

J

immy Buffett has a song with this name. It is a song that sings a little bit about the back and forth of life. Certainly could be appropriate for this season. This song popped into my mind as I spied an old swing hanging from a far older tree. It was time to stop and take a breath. As Jimmy also sang – breath in, breath out, move on…

Today was the start of our annual Fall Fiesta Rally – a slightly hastily put-together rally - like our other rallies this summer – from the remnants of our Backroads’ 25th Anniversary Grand Tour that got Faucied earlier in the season.

Many of our readers and frequent attendees of our rallies were very much looking forward to our trip to Maine. When we knew the Ocean Point was, indeed, open for business we grabbed the place for two days in mid-September and let the faithful and the ever-welcome first-timers know the wheres and whens.

The Boothbay coast of Maine is a good bit of a hike for many so we penciled in stops on the way up and on the way back. In our minds, we thought the more days on the road this trip around the sun the better.

To Bernardston, Massachusetts So, for night one riders began to filter in to the small town of Bernardston, Massachusetts on a rainy and overcast Thursday.

So far this season we had been golden, as in golden sunshine, but today we ran through some soakers and put our waterproof Aerostich suits to the task.

As Shira likes to say, “We ain’t made of sugar, Sugar!”

A few of us met in Orange County, New York, and then followed the wet and winding backroads through Harriman State Park and over my favorite bridge at Bear Mountain before turning north and east.

We ran out of storms and into a halfway decent day, but then the rains came back with a vengeance. I like riding in the rain, it makes me think more precisely.

We found the required few miles of gravel (at least it wasn’t dusty!) and, while in front of our little pack, I had something run across the road right ahead of me.

Low to the ground, very feline, very large, very long tail.

Later a local told me it was a Catamount – but they are not supposed to be here, are they? I think we can all agree that although humans might have taken a shot to the chin, wildlife and nature have flourished this season.

We arrived at the Inn at Crumpin-Fox – a very nicely placed motel that had all we needed that evening and by dark, we had a good number of machines sitting damply in the large parking lot.

Multiple pizzas were ordered (Thank you Jeff) and the Fall Fiesta was underway.

Bernardston, Massachusetts to Boothbay, Maine A hot and wet day can morph overnight, and the winds I saw tossing around the trees outside the Inn’s wide forest-facing window let me know it would be a long sleeve day arriving with the sun - the first since June.

Before heading out, but after some morning Go-Go juice, some hands needed to be laid as one rider’s bike was having some issues starting.

Fortunately, we had not one but three people of the cloth in attendance and, soon, we were all rolling right along.

Shira had put together the route from Massachusetts to Boothbay Harbor, Maine, with most of the day through some of the best roads to be had in the Live Free or Die State of New Hampshire.

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FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS

Left to Right/Top to Bottom: David supplies the Morning Joe. Heaing Hands are laid. Two-wheeled breakfast buddies. Shira’s obligatory gravel road.

SURPRISE! Ro and Rich join the crew.

David grabs the sunset. A perfect evening for cocktails on the Bay.

In true Shira-style we found ourselves on a tiny gravel road – but this one had a twist we have seen before. Sometimes locals are kind enough to offer travelers advice.

No, it did not say, “You should have bought a squirrel” but it did say, “No Thru Streets – Your GPS is wrong!” Some wanted to go for it anyway, but the group ruled and we backtracked and did our beloved Plan B. Late breakfast was found and the bonus of a Honda Grom sitting in the middle of the restaurant made us feel right at home.

Ever on the lookout for ‘History in Front of Us’ we passed the birthplace of Horace Greeley, outside of Amherst. Greeley, was the man who founded

the New York Tribune, which became the highest-circulating newspaper in the country through weekly editions sent by mail. Among many other issues, he urged the settlement of the American West, which he saw as a land of opportunity for the young and the unemployed. He popularized the slogan “Go west, young man, and grow up with the country”, and he assisted on Manifest Destiny and the Homestead Act. Greeley was also an unsuccessful presidential candidate, running against incumbent Ulysses S. Grant who won by a landslide.

A short time later we rode by an old cemetery, near Deerfield, that is the resting place of one Major John Simpson, who may or may not have fired one of the first shots of our revolutionary War. For that, we might need some IFC – Independent Fact-Checkers.

We carried on north and east to the sea and the rocky coast of Maine.

By this time of the day many others were making their way to the Ocean Point Inn, just outside of Boothbay Harbor, as well.

Among those joining us was a great surprise for Shira, as her sister Rowena and our brother-in-law Richie had made the journey up. After 6 months of stealth communication and near slips of the tongue we were finally going to surprise the redhead.

We usually stick with our route, but the city of Portland was… well – a city, so we vectored around it and soon were on the lengthy and very serpentine roads to the inn. Along the coast of Maine, places can be just a few miles as the crow flies, but many more miles on the tiny roads that link the hundreds of tiny peninsulas and islands that make up this spectacular coast.

We had stayed, a few years back, at the Ocean Point and it was, unquestionably, a big hit with the riders who came on this rally then.

We knew it would make a great repeat performance, which it did, with a few dozen riders filling up the Inn’s many buildings and taking Adirondack chairs to watch a seriously pretty sunset.

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2021

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Sunrise to sunset, it was a perfect day for everyone.

The Inn’s restaurant was spot on and everything was excellent and, even with the required Faucistic protocols, it was an wonderful evening and one well deserved by so many.

Free Day in Maine Most riders were up and out early to explore the many parks, little towns, and in search of that perfect lobster – which are plentiful here in the Pine Tree State. For a few of us, we rode into the town of Boothbay proper and did a little window-shopping before a few hours on the water on a boat called the Bennie Alice.

The region is certainly pretty from the road but takes on another aspect from the water. The captain toured us around Boothbay and then onto the privately-owned Cabbage Island for a real New England Clam Bake.

Lobsters, clams, corn, potatoes, hard-boiled egg and an onion all covered and steamed in seaweed. Yes, it was amazingly good and it was a perfect day made better by having family with us. It was finished off with homemade blueberry cake and a sail back to the mainland.

Others went to the Owls Head Transportation Museum. This place is a must-see if you love vintage transportation as a wide array of aircraft, cars, and other modes of transport are here to be found inside a cavernous hangar.

Some went in search of the great lighthouses for which Maine is known and our friends Rachel and David found one with a piper in full Scottish regalia!

And still others followed along Paul Donoghue’s route, giving them a taste of the elevation changes and curves available in this part of Maine as well as a lunch stop in the quaint port village of Castine.

By evening riders began to filter back to the Ocean Point for evening cocktails at sunset and dinner, although I think most had had their fill of Homarus americanus already. But there was always room for dessert!

Somewhere during the wee evening hours the little elf who delivers the Creatures of the Rally made its rounds, this time with critters from the sea. For those attending our past rallies, there has been quite the collection amassed.

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Boothbay, Maine to Vermont Our weather stayed on the friendly-side of the equation and, as we walked out of our room, we were greeted by another good friend, Jeff Adams. For those of you who remember Whitehorse Press, Jeff was their ‘gear-maven’ and always a stellar human as well.

Jeff had left on a Dawn Patrol from his home and joined us for breakfast on the coast. And speaking of Dawn Patrol, some ambitious folks (or maybe they just never went to bed) arose for the sunrise, and a beautiful one it was.

By 9 am we had said our goodbyes to our family and some of our friends who were not joining us that night west in Vermont, got the gear on and side stands up and began the somewhat tedious trek into the western part of the Pine Tree State where the moto-in’ got much, much better. We slid into New Hampshire and blasted to Wolfeboro and a waterside lunch along Lake Winnipesaukee.

As is my wife’s way (it is not, but sometimes seems so) we had one long gravel stretch that I tactfully avoided to stay on the recently and pristinely paved covid roads (you gotta love Fed highway money), but then decided to follow the purple route up one long gravel stretch that began benign enough, but quickly degraded. “Use at Your Own Risk,” the sign said.

I asked if all were good with this and we began the slight ascent. Graded gravel morphed to rut and small baby heads – uphill, then down. I was confident with the ADV machines and our friend Larry has that magical combination of skill and bravery (re: lack of sense). But my concern for the two touring machines was unfounded as they handled the rough road superbly.

We hadn’t ridden with Bill before but we hope for many miles in the future.

We crossed the Connecticut River south of the Alien Petroglyphs at Bellows Falls and then west on East / West Road to West Dover and the Gray Ghost Inn - which had a decent crowd of Backroads’ Ralliers and the HOG Rider Group from Hudson Valley.

Super people that just added to a great night on the road.

They say timing is everything – whoever the heck THEY are – and as we rolled in so did the short-lived rain.

FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS

Parked bikes, cold beer, and a guitar – life in 2020 was still good!

The in-house dinner was most excellent and the impromptu concert by Johnny Rocket and the Infidels was well received – we hope.

Near the turn of the new day, most slipped into comfortable beds, ready to do the Tennessee Tuxedo “Time to Go Home” thing! East, west, north, and south – that is where we all dispersed to that Tuesday in September.

The rain earlier that evening had given way to an artist palette of stars across the dome above me.

While people playfully argued about the correct lyrics to Don McClean’s American Pie, I quietly strolled out to the Gray Ghost’s parking lot, a splash of 46 in my glass, and took a seat on my GS, eyes up and taking in the Big Dipper, the stretch of the Milky Way and the planets of Jupiter and Saturn that had been orbiting around for the naked eye to see all summer long – but… were beginning to travel out of sight.

Much like this crazy and painful riding season. Okay, cue the quiet introspective soundtrack. (Think Sam & Dean sitting on the Impala) Like so many we got knocked off track… or at least what we thought was the track for 2020 – Backroads’ 25th Anniversary Year.

Personal travels got wiped away. The Grand Tour? Not this year. But after getting on the road in late May – we have not stopped until Mother Nature will eventually force us to park.

Three rallies, and thousands of miles under our wheels.

We have chosen to live.

It has been hard for some - us included – but, we choose where to go - or not - with these cards we have been dealt – as have all of you.

Some have chosen far different paths than us – but, as a good friend of mine told me watching the sunset in Maine, “Some of us live on the edge of the bubble.” We’d have it no other way.

May the universe help us turn this burnt page…

Let us move on. Let us ride. Let us take that road less traveled.

We hope to see you on that road… ,

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2021

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words: Brian Rathjen • images: Brian Rathjen, Andrea Still and Lisa Veliath In this wacky season of ‘The Rona’, with cancelled being the most overused word in the English language, Backroads was pretty happy that we were able to pull off a number of road rallies in a few different directions.

State College. Vermont and New York’s Adirondacks. Maine!

So, it was a sad realization that we did not head to the Oyster Festival in Chincoteague, Virginia over Columbus Day Weekend, but were happy to have some friends and Backroads rally alumni come to our home, and Monkey with a Gun, for a light end-of-season get-together. Our thank you to those who were able to attend, and that we were looking forward to sharing our home with for the first time.

During the evening great wine was opened, serious ham and smoked chicken was consumed and the argument of what is really better - fine bourbon or tequila hit the debate floor.

But one topic was brought up more than a few times…

Wouldn’t it be great if we could all do one more weekend?

So this was how it came about. A few good people saying… let’s do this. One more weekend. A little Slipaway.

A light invite was passed along social media and one week later we found a small cadre of friends converging on Gettysburg, PA.

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FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS

But, gatherings like this are not as easy as you would think. Especially when columnist Byers gets a call that same day saying the hotel was overbooked and all our rooms were “cancelled”.

In Shoemaker, Pennsylvania, just east of the Schuylkill River, there is a Sheetz Fuel Station. There are 583 of these scattered around the United States. But, for some reason or another, we have been to this one station dozens of times – probably because Irish Creek Road is nearby.

After the 3rd time of using the bathroom, while Shira and Andrea (a CoPilot Goddess who can make things amazingly happen while pilot Scott is twisting the throttle) were searching, booking, and moving a dozen riders from a now never-mentioned again hotel in Gettysburg to a very nice and friendly Marriott outside Shippensburg, the people behind the counter began to think that gunmen used to wear masks and case places.

With a hugely ad-libbed Plan B (almost C) now sorta in place, we revectored our ride to Shippensburg. The town got its name from the one-time mayor of Philadelphia, Edward Shippen, who helped found the town. The town is very neat, but his name is best known, at least from our perspective, for the machinations of his granddaughter Peggy.

As I stated this was not really a ride but, looking back on this season, so many have stepped up to show the inner Road Whisperer that they are. Paul Donoghue during the summer and, on this outing, our friend Lisa Veliath and Shira put together a route that would become a Backroads day almost from the start.

We have been testing the new ZumoXT and I could see from the route that we would be heading up… Lisa was leading and I was not surprised in the least that we had a sudden stop as that is what the road did.

Okay – everybody… this way!

I was watching the XT and knew we were heading towards round two – but this one actually had a road and it was a stunning piece of mileage up and over the mountains, a one and a half lane of gravel, packed sand, and a little bit of gnarliness all of which came to a summit.

And there, at the summit with a five-way intersection, was a seasoned gentleman… and a dog… and a truck – wondering what the hell I was asking.

Eventually, he just pointed in the general direction we had already been traveling and said “Oh, yea, there is a paved road… about 5 miles thataway – but it is downhill.”

She and ex-lover British Major John Andre were key parts in turning her husband, Benedict Arnold, into one of the greatest traitors in American history.

As Queen sang – “The things we do for love.”

Today Shippensburg is a semi-happening university town and by dusk, riders began to roll into the Marriott, right outside the town.

Yes, a chain hotel. God forbid. But it worked remarkably well for us and I am pretty sure it will be a ‘go-to’ many times in the future while exploring the region or traveling through.

We loved that word-smith Mr. Byers and Betsy came north – a situation also forcing them into a Plan B, which involved a very sweet German sports car; so the first night seemed almost like a long-term planned rally with a big-time ‘southern contingent’ in attendance.

That being said, realize this was not so much a Backroads event, although we will take a half-notch on the belt for tossing together a riding gathering with friends, something so many of us do all the time. This year, perhaps harder to pull off, but when on the bikes, life is somewhat normal.

Pub food worked for us the first night (we ain’t choosy), along with the total domination of the one and only fire pit. On Sunday – a “By God” perfect Keystone State Autumnal Sunday by the way – we had a mid-morning start to a ride that would bring us through the history, weirdness, and sometimes dusty backroads of this part of the state.

Well since we had just ridden 5 miles up the mountain we were pretty sure we would have to come down… eventually.

This was the best way to see the Michaux State Forest.

Many riders stay away from the gravel backroads – but when you do you cut yourself short. The views from the roads that made America famous are something that the ‘Sunday Drivers’ never get to experience.

Be smart, be cool, and stay on the gas; and just about any street bike can handle these roads. Being a wus, I popped the BMW GS into Enduro ProMode.

Back on pristine pavement, we followed Lisa’s lead south and east towards the most famous battle site in the nation – Gettysburg.

We don’t really need to do a history lesson here, as we all know what this site was about. But, if ever in the area this is a solemn part of the nation’s story.

Lisa had put most of the ride together but Shira, knowing of a request from O’Life for some new imagery, slid us towards the Devil’s Den. Here some of the most infamous deathly numbers took place.

Some people, being more sensitive and, perhaps, psychic to places like this, have a hard time at a location that saw so much death. We stayed for a bit, paid quiet respect among children laughing and running around their families on a beautiful Fall Sunday outing, then mounted and continued on.

Usually, if you say “Hello, I‘m Mister Ed” - a Saddle-Bred Arabian horse

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2021

on a black & white television comes to mind. Along Route 30 there is a different Mr. Ed’s - far more pachyderm than equine.

Some of us collect stuff. My friend Keene has an enviable guitar collection.

Shira has more camels than the Sahara. Here at Mr. Ed’s, you will find the largest collection of elephants on the planet.

Okay, so nothing with a heartbeat, but collectibles from around the globe; over 12,000 of them. We had featured Mr. Ed’s years back and it has just gotten bigger and better since. The gardens, the candy emporium, and all the little things added up for an interesting rest.

For our group it was a bit of an unexpected stop. Bigfoot? Really!?

Here the route between the two women really began to mix and our dash through the forest all lit up and colorful in the low October sun made for an excellent way to slow down a season that worked out regardless of the world’s dilemma.

Along a small road near the old Pine Grove Furnace you will come across the Appalachian Trail Museum. Here at the halfway mark between Georgia and Maine there is a fantastic museum dedicated to the trail and those that have trodden her.

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There is also a General Store that, eventually, will serve up some good chow. The museum is worth the time although we did wonder what would take longer - hiking the AT or getting a bacon cheeseburger? We don’t blame the gal behind the counter, we put her into the weeds.

Our time was running short so we sliced a touch off the planned route and followed over the mountains back toward Shippensburg in a beautiful late afternoon light, the bikes running back along miles and miles of ripe apple fields that filled the helmets with thoughts of good times that we had bitten into before. Yes, we did stop and, err – borrow an apple or two.

Still, it was an amazing ride… the bikes followed one after another in a wonderful dance; like MotoGP without the horsepower and money (talent?).

Of course, Shira had one more stop at the town’s Goose Brothers Ice Cream – a perfect way to top off a superb day of riding.

Being Sunday, with the town closed, we had to make do but the hotel opened the pool for us and pizza was ordered, firepit lit and we stayed up way too late alongside the fireplace in a, thankfully, mostly empty hotel.

Sitting back with a very nice Woodford bourbon at the fire I got to look, listen and enjoy. Wow, these folks were having fun.

It was still warm this night… with a ‘Finger Nail’ waxing moon illuminating brighter and brighter by the minute as the sun set to the west. The seasons would turn harsh in the next weeks, but tonight all was good.

You know… you open up Backroads, read the pages and we try to paint a happy wonderful image of riding in every issue.

It’s easy to do – ‘cause it’s true.

Along the roads we meet so many riders and we all know that same thing.

We have a wonderful gift in riding. So, make those quick plans and get on the road with the people you care about. It is worth every mile.

As Jimmy Buffett would sing, Come Monday…

Shucks, it had to come to an end. But, no!

John had to show me an index card that he had put together with lefts and rights… I remembered this. Once again, we were happy just to follow and Continued on Page 31

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS

AEROSTICH COUSIN JEREMY SUIT

It was time. While my tried and true Aerostich ‘IKEA’ Roadcrafter was still very road worthy, the Swedish colors were a bit faded, the Velcro was in need of an update and no matter how well it was washed, the travel wear was a permanent reminder of some very excellent road trips. It had saved my bacon a number of times and, like a winning racehorse or champion Westminster dog, it had earned a little rest.

Perusing the Roadcrafter color schemes, there just wasn’t anything that tickled my fancy. I clicked over to the Cousin Jeremy page and, voile, there sat my new suit. Available in women’s cut one or two-piece in black, brown or green, I opted for the brown with black abrasives and reflective piping. I’ve always been a two-piece girl, as the jacket can be worn as a stand-alone piece if the temps dip when off the motorcycle, but I do ride with the jacket zipped to the pants for easy on/off.

The weathered look of the 100% waxed cotton fabric gives it a nostalgic appearance with all the modern design elements still available.

The fabric is impregnated with a paraffin formula derived from fabric finishes developed in the late 1800s for use in foul weather gear.

While braving the storms of inclement weather, it still offers a certain breathability. Over time, when in a warm room or sunlight, it will re-finish itself and relax to adapt more to your body. I found that there was no ‘break-in’ period and felt very comfortable from the very first ride. Some retreatment with the offered Martexin Original Wax may be needed after some time to keep the cotton’s waterproofness. The inner supernyl black liner makes for easy entry/exit of the suit.

Cousin Jeremy, and other Roadcrafter suits, comes standard with TF3 impact armor for shoulders, elbows and knees with an optional addition of hip pads/sleeves and back protector. I added the TF5 hip protection as well as the TF3 back pad because, well, stuff happens and, so far, my ‘stiches have kept me safe during any departure from my motorcycle.

There are underarm and back vents which make for a good airflow at speed, the collar has a soft liner with snaps to fold back for even more airflow, numerous pockets that are extremely well thought out and additional hook and loop to add a map holder and more. Available in men’s 34-54 short, regular or long and women’s 2-20 short, regular or long. Pricing is $597/pants, $667/jacket and $1,127 for a one-piece. Allow time for custom orders but there are many standard sizes readily available for shipment.

I haven’t given my new Cousin a good work out yet, and if past performance is any indication, I do look forward to many happy years together. ,

The Boat House Restaurant Perfect in Any Season Brunch, Lunch or Dinner on Swartswood Lake

Excellent Ride Destination

Wed-Sun 11A-8P Closed Mon+Tues Beautiful Outdoor Garden Dining on the Lake

1040 Cty Rd 521 • Swartswood NJ 973-300-0016

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2021

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the slipaWaY Continued from Page 30 John did not let us down. The spirited ride through the 1269 DOLSONTOWN RD MIDDLETOWN NY 10940 Amish country was invigorating.

What was that bull thinking?

845-343-2552 • WWW.CYCLEMOTIONINC.COM Cycle Motion is your provider of motorcycles, ATVs, scooters, and utility vehicles by Kawasaki, Suzuki, Polaris, Yamaha and Can-Am. With a large parts department, qualified service technicians and a full shop of parts and accessories, we're here to meet all your power sport needs.

For every rider - on or off road, whether they like doing it in the dirt, carving the twisties, or cruising the backroads, we have their weapon of choice.

We crossed the Susquehanna and stopped at a tiny park (no golfing!) and then continued east along some stellar roads John had stitched together. The ride wound its way to the Wanamakers General Store.

This is a great part of Pennsylvania that John just nailed ride-wise, and it was great to be introduced to a place we had heard so much about. The train station was just a bonus. Great deli-style sandwiches were had and Lebanon bologna and liverwurst ruled. This is a must stop as well.

Hugs were given and we looked east to New Jersey… a few hours later back home.

So, it may or may not be snowing when you read this.

If you can slipaway with friends … do. ,

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FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS GIVI E36NA REISSUE CASES The Givi E36NA Reissue Cases are the right answer to the needs of any adventurer on a budget. Their classic look, the squared shape, their unbeatable value, are the perfect fit for all those budget conscious riders, and we are thinking mainly about the owners of midsized Adventure Touring motorcycles, like the Kawasaki KLR650 or Versys 650 or 300X, or the older Suzuki DL650 and DL1000. Or just about anybody who purchased a used motorcycle and it came with GIVI Monokey mounts already - why not?

Head to the Givi website to refresh your memory about a few key features of the E36NA Reissue cases, and remember, that they can be purchased individually or as a pair, keyed the same, just be very specific when you place your order, to avoid misunderstandings. For all the products available from GIVI USA, visit our website www.giviusa.com

HELIBARS HORIZON HSTX HANDLEBARS FOR CAN-AM SPYDER These easily installed replacement handlebars have a 30-degree forward and back wrist angle adjustment, fully adjustable reach, height and wrist angle. They are 0-4” taller than stock, dependent on adjustment 0-3” rearward towards the rider, dependent on adjustment and easily work within the limits of cables, wire looms and hydraulic lines. These superbly crafted HeliBars are ideal deal for both tall and short riders.

It is a simple installation for a competent shade tree mechanic, simply swap out the lower bent mounting tube, leave the controls attached to the stock handlebar tubes and just re-attach them to the new mounting pivot. They are 100% compliant with all factory components. $599 from helibars.com.

PROFERRED BBI TOOLS HAND & TOOL WIPES So many times we find ourselves out in the barn working on the bikes and, no matter how hard you try, our hands get fairly filthy with grease and grime. Even though the slop sink and pump container of GoJo are in the house, there are plenty of times we just want to get our hands clean … now.

Enter Proferred BBI Tools Hand & Tool Wipes.

We have tried a number of these pre-packaged hand wipes and most do a good job. These from Proferred do a GREAT job.

These little towels are heavy-duty and are able to cut through dirt and grease quickly. They are safe for the environment and, very important, they are not just safe on skin – but actually good for your hands. The cleaning solution impregnated on these wipes includes Vitamin E, Aloe, Lanolin and has a clean and fresh citrus scent.

They come in a hand tub that carries 82 individual 9” x 12” wipes that are large enough to clean the biggest hands and degrease your largest hand tools. Yes, your tools too.

I use them to clean up my paws and then give the wrench, driver, or sockets a quick once over as well with the same towel.

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2021

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The Proferred BBI Tools Hand & Tool Wipes come in the mentioned tub and in individual packets – easily carried in a tank bag or tail case as you never know when you will wish you had soap, sink, and a towel. You can find these on the web for around $20.

R NINET PROTECTION FROM MACHINEARTMOTO Most machines have very vulnerable parts and you might not think about them until a tip-over or crash. Thankfully Andrew Serbinski and MachineArtMoto do.

They now offer superior protecting for the BMW R nineT. The X-Head DOHC cylinder guard and MudSling rear suspension guard protect the damage vulnerable areas of the R nineT may sustain while being beautifully integrated with each of the R nineT models’ styling.

X-Head DOHC protect 80% of the cylinder head surface and is made in a no-break polymer with a thick rubber liner that helps absorb impact force against the cylinder. Styling is distinctive while letting just enough of the cylinder head shape to show through.

The MudSling R nineT rear suspension guard protects the open rear suspension area from abrasion and mud accumulation and is designed to look slender and integrated with the minimal styling of the R nineT. MudSling is created by a precision injection molded from a resilient polypropylene with a fine texture matching other surfaces on the R nineT. The X-Head sells for $189 (BMW cylinder heads list for $1,600) and the MudSling R9T for $97.

This is money well spent and we have them both on our own BMWs. www.machineartmoto.com

BIG AND SMALL – HONDA HAS IT ALL • Honda Gold Wing Upgrades for 2021 and the newly designated CRF300L and CRF300L Rally In its first new-model announcement since the New Year, Honda confirmed that the Gold Wing family gets a number of upgrades for 2021, designed to deliver improved comfort and convenience for long-distance touring. Among the improvements is a capacity increase for the Tour version’s trunk, which now easily accepts two full-face helmets.

Honda also announced a host of upgrades to its smallest dualsport models, which are newly named the CRF300L and CRF300L Rally, thanks to a 15 percent increase in engine displacement. The popular standard model has been further updated with a cut in weight and increased suspension travel, upping its off-road capability without sacrificing performance in the city. In addition, the Rally model gets increased range thanks to a larger fuel tank that makes it even better prepared for extended adventures.

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FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS “Honda listens to its customers, a fact that is highlighted in our latest new-model announcement,” said Lee Edmunds, Senior Manager of Powersports Marketing for American Honda. “In the case of the Gold Wing and our smallest street-legal CRF models, the 2021 iterations reflect improvements that were highly requested by people who ride them every day, and the motorcycles are better as a result. We look forward to customers getting the chance to experience the updates themselves.”

The 2021 Gold Wing expands on the goal of long-distance touring luxury with updates aimed at greater comfort and convenience. The Tour model’s top trunk is 11 liters larger, for a total of 61 liters storage capacity, and the passenger seat’s backrest features a more relaxed angle, thicker foam and a taller profile. The seat has a suedelike cover with an enhanced appearance, and the Gold Wing has colored seat piping for added color contrast.

A number of audio improvements were incorporated, including upgraded, 45-watt speakers with richer audio; optimized automatic volume-adjustment level and a standard XM radio antenna. Android Auto™ integration joins Apple CarPlay® integration, and the rear turn signals are now all red for a clean, stylish look.

HONDA CB650R ABS • A MIX OF LIGHTNESS, POWER AND STYLING Honda’s legendary CB750K0 introduced the motorcycling world to the modern inline-four, and the world has never looked back. That’s because the configuration brings a magical balance of power delivery, smoothness, and instant acceleration in a tight, clean package.

Plus, there are those awesome waterfall headers! Today, Honda’s CB650R stands almost alone in offering that combination in a 650-sized machine. A popular and enjoyable naked bike that showcases Honda’s Neo Sports Café design theme through its smooth lines and compact packaging, this model builds on the CB heritage of serving two-wheel enthusiasts of varying riding backgrounds, from daily commuters to those who chase exhilaration along tight, twisting backroads.

The machine is a tiny dancer – for sure - but is still powered by an insidious in-line four-cylinder water-cooled powerhouse that boasts some serious ponies. With a bore and stroke of 67mm x 46mm, the Honda’s PGM-FI with 32mm throttle bodies, modern transmission and deep compression ratio.

Well, she is a beast! Tiny, but gnarly. The machine sits at 31.9 inches, which worked perfectly for Shira and made for a fun ride for Brian. The curb weight of just 445 helps a bunch to keep it flickable and fun. Style-wise she is a looker for sure! Light, stylish and sexy, running about 80 horsepower.

It’s a classic Japanese sport-bike engine with a flying high redline of 12,800 rpm and four-cylinder power plant that gives any V-Twin a good run for its money.

Nowhere has this machine gone without getting its share of looks.

With a light fuel capacity of just 4.1 gallons and, considering this bike will probably be ridden with very little concern for mileage, you might aim to fuel when and if you are hitting the 150 mark.

Probably not a long distance ride, but certainly a super fun Sunday blaster. With the addition of a small fairing, tank bag and soft luggage, this would certainly make for a nice overnighter as well. Our 2019 machine came in what Honda calls Chromosphere Red, a stunning shade of crimson. The 2021 model has an MSRP starting at $9,199. See your local Honda dealer for info or visit powersports.honda.com. ,

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2021

Rajasthan by Royal Enfield

words + images: Don Toothman Seen alongside (or in!) the roadway in the first 30 minutes of riding in Rajasthan: a camel, a horse, donkeys, cows, monkeys, goats, an elephant, and a peacock. Welcome to Rajasthan, a kaleidoscopic chaos of color and culture, of harsh desert landscapes punctuated by hilltop fortresses and massive palaces, of cities of vibrant blue, pink, and gold, a land that evokes images of “Arabian Nights” or the ancient Silk Road.

Elephants and their mahouts (elephant trainers) leaving Amer Fort.

Rajasthan, the largest state in India (by land area), is located in her far northwest corner, abutting Pakistan along the Thar desert. It’s an exotic and remote region in an already exotic country. It is the land of the Rajputs, the ruling warrior class who controlled this area for more than 1000 years. Even the name “Rajasthan” is exotic, as it is derived from the ancient Sanskrit word for “son of a king.” The legacies of those kings abound in this land; among those are Umaid Bhawan Palace in the “Blue City” of Jodhpur, one of the world’s largest priBird’s eye view of the “Blue City” from Mehrangarh Fort.

vate residences (347 rooms!), and the Lake Palace, a magnificent 4 acre structure built in the 1740’s on an island in the “City of Lakes,” Udaipur, and now a luxury hotel.

The opulence of those royal palaces stands in stark

Page 35 contrast to the poverty that abounds around you. India is full bore, all extremes, at every turn. A stop at a chai stand along the road (raw milk, black tea, sugar, cardamom, and ginger, all boiled up fresh while you wait) will set you back 10 rupees (around $0.15), while down the road there is a hotel that costs $500+ per night.

There are trash piles along the road, yet many of the local women walking along that same road are dressed in beautiful fabrics. It is a paradox that is difficult for many Westerners to get their head around.

But that is India. The trip to Rajasthan was my second time motorcycling in India, and the first time riding solo. Previously I had ridden with a tour group in Himachal Pradesh, to the foothills of the Himalayas. Spectacular, but unseasonable rains kept us out of the Spiti Valley and the best bits. That is “unfinished business.”

The third and fourth times were solo Not everything is blue in Jodhpur. trips to Kerala/ Karnataka/ Goa in the Well, almost everything.

Page 36 south of India (spectacular, but no Rajasthan in my book!), and then to Agra and Kumbh Mela (the largest religious celebration in the world; 150 million people (!) attended over 10 weeks, but that is another story, and not truly a motorcycling story).

FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS On my first trip, I rode a carbureted 350cc Royal Enfield Bullet equipped with drum brakes, and set up with right-sided shifter with rear brake on the left foot pedal. I’ve found it very easy to adapt to riding on the left side of the road on other trips, but swapping the location of the shifter and rear brake is “interesting” to put it mildly. All is well until you encounter that elephant in a corner and your lizard brain takes over. It required constant attention to avoid a major mishap. Plus, easy on that front brake or you will lock it up and be down faster than you can say “namaste” (literally, “I bow to you,” a way to say hello in Hindi). All of that while jaw-dropping at the amazing scenery. The last 3 trips have been on 500cc Bullets, all with traditional (by North American standards) shifter, fuel injection, and equipped with disc brakes, making it much, much easier (and safer) to soak in all the scenery around you.

Riding a Bullet in India has a certain “cool factor.” It is impossible to stop along the roadside and not have an adult male come out to see your bike. It’s

Enfields attract a lot of attention.

Rajasthan, however, is a GREAT destination for motorcycling, motorcycling in the sense of “adventure touring.” The hills of the Aravalli Range cover the eastern half, while the wide-open vistas of the Thar Desert dominate the west. Unless you are an around the world adventurer and have imported your own bike, the motorcycle of choice is the Royal Enfield Bullet. From a practical standpoint, there aren’t many “large-displacement” motorcycles (650cc +) to be found for rent in India, and, besides, from an emotional standpoint, how could you ride anything else? The names say it all: it’s Rajasthan and it’s an Enfield, both Royal.

I bet you don’t see this around your town. Camels, along with many other animals, are still widely used as beasts of burden.

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2021 Amer Fort, near Jaipur, dates from the 16th century. Though hill forts are a dime a dozen in Rajasthan, this one is exceptional, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

easy to start thinking you are Steve McQueen. But then once you hop back on the bike, and rev it up to its max, you realize that at the top speed of 72 MPH (with a tailwind), you are no Steve McQueen. On the other hand, on most roads in India, even in the countryside, you generally don’t want to go nearly that fast. There are just too many obstacles (think camel drawn cart pulling onto the road right in front of you, without even bothering to look, as they are not used to speed on the roads). In addition, there are always interesting things to see. India, despite the chaos at times, captivates you, and demands that you take her in slowly.

An evening ride into the hills overlooking Jaipur, accompanied by newfound friends.

First stop in Rajasthan: the capital, Jaipur, known as the “Pink City” due to its dominant color scheme.

Though it’s large (3 million people), it’s easy to escape town and cruise around the scenic nearby hills, which I did each morning and evening, sandwiching in a walking tour of the city in between. My favorite local destination was the Amer Fort, a beauty of red sandstone and marble dating from the 1600’s, a quick 7 miles outside of Jaipur. I chose to walk up to the fort rather than take the elephant ride.

I don’t regret not taking the elephant ride, but I do regret not riding a camel at my next destination, the Pushkar Camel Fair. The “fair” starts off with a multiScenes from the Pushkar Camel Fair.

“Toto, I’ve a feeling we’re not in Kansas anymore.”

Page 37 day livestock sale (I could have purchased a camel for $250, but I realized that it would have cost me $25,000 to ship it home!), followed by something akin to our county fairs. Very, very cool. I spent 2 days riding around and taking photographs.

My Bullet strutting its stuff in the hotel courtyard.

She’s a beaut. The rear rack is not primarily for luggage; it’s a “saree guard” designed for female passengers who ride side-saddle so that their clothing does not get caught in the wheel. India is still, in general, a very conservative country.

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FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS

When your moving average is a whopping 32 MPH, the 222 miles to Udaipur, the “City of Lakes,” is a lot of ground to cover in one day. But it was a delight riding on fairly empty (by Indian standards) twisties in the Aravalli Range. As is often the case, once you arrive at your hotel you just ride your bike on in to the courtyard. My hotel was located on one of the main lakes in town, but to access a better view of the Lake Palace, I climbed up a nearby hill at sunset. Gorgeous.

Street vendor making samosas.

Yum! I stuck to freshly cooked food when eating on the streets

Walking around town, I noticed a vertical column of rock with a small shrine on top, which I just had to climb. So, before sunrise the next morning, I was out wandering the maze of streets on my motorcycle, trying to figure out where that column might be. Many wrong turns later, I finally located it, but of course there was a gate at the bottom and it was locked. But this is India. When you encounter an obstacle, just sit and wait. Sure enough, about 15 minutes later a man came along, and indicated that he wanted to know what I wanted (he didn’t speak English and I don’t speak Hindi, so I made the universal sign for turning a lock with a key). He abruptly turned around and left (“Hey, where’d he go???”). I debated about just leaving, but decided to sit it out. Sure enough, 15 minutes later another man showed up with a key. Voila, problem solved. The view from the top, with the fort in background, was spectacular.

Jaisalmer, the “Golden City,” is tucked away in the northwestern corner of Rajasthan, in the middle of the Thar Desert not far from Pakistan, and 500 miles from the capital, Jaipur. Like Jodhpur, the town is also dominated by a fort, in this case ancient Jaisalmer Fort, constructed like much of the town out of golden sandstone.

An early morning climb leads to this fantastic view.

I spent one night in Mt. Abu, one of the “hill stations” built by the colonial British to escape the summer heat. Situated at 4000 feet, it was a chilly retreat during my trip in November, though the ride up and down was spectacular.

Jodhpur, the “Blue City,” is dominated by the massive Mehrangarh Fort, one of the largest in India, dating from 1459. From the fort, it’s easy to see why the city has its nickname.

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2021

Page 39 Left: Jaisalmer Fort glows at sundown.

Below: The Bullet glows at surise in the Thar Desert.

The women of India in their assorted outfits.

The next morning, I steered the Bullet onto a sealed road and out into the Thar Desert to witness the beauty and stillness of the sunrise. A magical interlude before turning back toward Jaipur and the way home.

Contact info for Royal Enfield rentals • IndiaBikes.com Anindya (Andy) Chakravorty • indiabikes@gmail.com • 91 9820379805 Or reach out on Facebook. Andy is an IT professional by training, a passionate long-distance motorcyclist, and the CEO of a customer-focused motorcycle rental company. Highly, highly recommended.

When to go: November to February is the ideal time for motorcycling. It’s dry, it’s cool, and it’s beautiful. ,

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FEBRUARY 2021 • BACKROADS

UP C O M I NG E V E NTS C ALEND AR The destinations listed below may have restrictions on social distancing and mask wearing. Abide by COVID 19 CDC and Site Rules before entering any establishment.

Please check the POLAR BEAR website for updated information.

It is not necessary to be a member of the Polar Bear Grand Tour to do these rides.

There is generally food at the destination and if you just want to go for a nice ride and join other folks, feel free to attend.

Polar Bear cancellations & updates will be posted on the website. Sign-in is from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. unless otherwise posted. Check the New Member page for general information about the Polar Bear Grand Tour: polarbeargrandtour.com/newmem.htm

JANUARY 2021 31 • SWEETWATER MARINA & RIVERDECK, 2780 7th Ave, Sweetwater, NJ 08037 • 609-668-1545 • www.sweetwaterriverdeck.com/

FEBRUARY 2021 7 • ThE FRANKlIN hOUSE TAVERN, 101 North Market Street, Schaefferstown, PA 17088 • 717-949-2122. • franklinhousetavern.com 14 • lIGhThOUSE TAVERN, 397 Route 9 Waretown, NJ 08758 • 609-693-3150 • lighthousetavern.com 21 • PUB 199, 199 howard Blvd, Mount Arlington, NJ 07856 • 973-398-7454 • pub199nj.com 28 • lONG VAllEY PUB & BREWERY, 1 Fairmount Rd., long Valley, NJ 07853 • 908876-1122 • restaurantvillageatlongvalley.com/long-valley-pub-and-brewery/

MARCH 2021 7 • BAhR'S lANDING, 2 Bay Ave., highlands, NJ 07732 • 732-872-1247 • www.bahrslandingnj.com 14 • BRIAN'S hARlEY-DAVIDSON, 600 S. Flowers Mill Rd., langhorne PA 19047 • 215-752-9400. • www.brianshd.com 21 • ThE hICKORY BBQ SMOKEhOUSE, 743 Route 28, Kingston, NY 12401 • 845338-2424 • www.hickoryrestaurant.com 28 • PlUMSTED GRIll, 457 Rte. 539, Cream Ridge, NJ 08514 • 609-758-5552 • www.theplumstedgrill.com

Please check on your scheduled event for postponement or cancellation.

We look forward to a full season and seeing everyone on the road again.

MARCH 2021 5-14 • Daytona Bike Week, Daytona, Fl • www.officialbikeweek.com

MAY 2021 16-22 • BACKROADS ‘Time of Your life’ Spring Rally. A week’s worth of great riding, historic lodging and exploration. See full details on page ??. Make your reservations today as rooms are limited. For questions: 973-948-4176 or editor@backroadsusa.com 20-23 • BMW RA ‘Game of Roads’ National Rally, Waynesville, NC • They come to this quiet valley nestled in smoky mountains to learn from sages and magicians, to outfit their steeds with glistening new farkles, to renew bonds with old compatriots, and to make new ones. But most of all, they come to ride, to feel the curvature of the earth, to lean into the unknown, to slay dragons and snakes, and to play the Game of Roads. • Visit BMWRA.org for info and to register.

JUNE 2021 12-20 • laconia Motorcycle Week, laconia, Nh • Often referred to as the Oldest National Motorcycle Rally, these roots reach back to the summer of 1916, when a Gypsy Tour gathered for several days at Weirs Beach on the southern shores of lake Winnipesaukee.

24-27 • Thunder in the Valley, Johnstown, PA • historic downtown Johnstown is the hub of the rally. Multiple venues with food booths, vendors, live music, kids' activities, manufacturer displays, demo rides, and stunt shows offer something for everyone. • www.visitjohnstownpa.com/thunder-valley 24-27 • BMW MOA International Rally, Great Falls, Montana • www.BMWMOA.org

JULY 2021 30-8/1 • BMW MOA Getaway at Skytop, PA • BMWMOA.org • 864-438-0962

SEPTEMBER 2021

What’s Happening BREAKING NEWS It is with heavy hearts that we share the following… On Christmas morning, the laconia MC Week office suffered a catastrophic fire – it was a total loss. The laconia Fire Dept. and surrounding towns were there with assistance and thankful that no one was seriously injured. Sadly, they lost their beloved office cat, Ashland, in the fire in addition to collectibles and souvenirs spanning the history of laconia Motorcycle Week’s 97-year legacy. The majority of what has been lost can never be replaced, including 100 years of photos, periodicals, posters, trophies, plaques, books, and many written records; historical archives that have been over 50-years in the making. They will work hard to rebuild as we move into 2021 and we’re sure we can all agree that 2020 can kindly see its way out!

Please watch for updates; If you have questions, please feel free to email them at info@laconiamcweek.com.

A few words in memory of Ashland…. ‘Charlie rescued Ashland in 2006 following a firework’s show he had done for the Town of Ashland’s July 4th Celebration. It appeared from the holes on either side of this tiny kitten that an owl (or something similar) may have tried to take him away as a snack. Ashland escaped and appeared to the fireworks crew that night and was happily appointed Motorcycle Week office mascot! Ashland loved greeting visitors and ‘helping’ with work tasks, which mainly involved sleeping on the desk or on an available lap. he also loved his best friend, Paugus, our other office kitty; rescued from outside our office on a very cold winter’s day in 2008. Paugus passed away in his sleep this past fall after battling cancer. Together, this mighty duo helped supervise all tasks and provided laughter and comfort in times of stress. Both are sorely missed.’

A GoFundMe has been set up, with all funds being used to cover the extensive cost of fire clean-up, rebuilding and restoring, currently estimated at $40K. No donation is too small. www.gofundme.com/f/we-love-laconia-motorcycle-week If you prefer, you can issue a check payable to lMWA and mail it to PO Box 5399 laconia, Nh 03247 and put "Friends of MC WeekRebuild Fund" in your memo. The laconia Motorcycle Week Association will have DIRECT and SOlE access to donated funds.

If you have memorabilia to donate, please contact Charlie St. Clair directly @ 603-387-5944.

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6-16 • SheADV/Women’s Motorcyclist Foundation Inc. DIRTY for GOOD Adventure Rider Training/Fundraising Tour with Northeast Backcountry Discovery Route. For further details visit womensmotorcyclistfoundation.org • email Sue.Slate@womensmotorcyclistfoundation.org or text Sue @ 585-415-8230 for a return call.

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17-19 • BMW MOA Getaway at Sugarbush, Warren, VT • BMWMOA.org

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20-21 • ClASS returns to Virginia International Raceway, VA and BACKROADS will be heading back once again. Plan to improve your skill with some of the best instructors in the business at one of the nicest facilities around. Follow us on Facebook or check our Rally webpage for more details on travel to and from the track. To book your space visit CLASSRides.com and to make reservations for a room at the track visit virnow.com/lodging. Rooms book quickly, just sayin’.

30-10/3 • horizons Unlimited Virginia Travellers Meeting, holiday lake 4-h Camp, Appomattox, VA. For seasoned travellers or complete novices. For full details and registration, visit www.horizonsunlimited.com/events/virginia-2021

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