February 2024

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

W H AT ’ S I N S I D E MONTHLY COLUMNS FREE WHEELIN’ ........................................ 3

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Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

WHATCHATHINKIN’ ................................... 4 ON THE MARK........................................... 5

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors

Dan Bisbee, Mark Byers, Tony Lisanti, Dr. Seymour O’Life

Office

BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822

phone

973.948.4176

BACKLASH ................................................ 6 INDUSTRY INFOBITES ............................... 7 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ........... 8 BIG CITY GETAWAY ................................. 10

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fax

973.948.0823

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA .......................... 12

email

editor@backroadsusa.com

WE’RE OUTTA HERE ................................ 14

online

www.backroadsusa.com

INSIDE SCOOP ........................................ 16

Advertising

973-948-4176

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE .................... 32

Follow Us

Backroads-Motorcycle-Touring-Magazine

Tweet Us

@BackroadsGal

See Us

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FEATURES

GETTING DIRTY IN VERMONT ................. 18 MODERN CLASSICS ................................ 24

PRODUCT REVIEWS

SCHUBERTH E2 HELMET ........................ 22 HEX GS-911 DIAGNOSTIC TOOL.............. 27 SUPERBIKE: BOOK REVIEW .................... 28 NEW FROM MICHELIN ............................. 30

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2024. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

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FREE WHEELIN The Old MJ’s hOMe I was reading Mitch’s article on the Honda Interceptor in the AMA magazine, and a little while back I had lunch with Fred Rau… The fact we are getting older was mentioned a few times during lunch; and that we all were lucky to be part of the “Golden Age” of motorcycles - 1970 to whenever it began to change.

It should only have been mentioned once but either Fred or I forgot we had just mentioned this five minutes back – so you know….

What were we talking about? Oh, yes – MotoGP! How awesome is this?

Perhaps it is time we made a Home for Moto Journalists. The Old MJ’s Home!

Some rehashed once stellar hotel that has seen far better days – probably in the late 80s. It could be found adjacent to some old road and dirt courses. It would have its own smell – not moldy, but of Klotz and old Castrol Motor Oil. The hallway carpets would be deeply worn and you would obviously follow the correct line as you walked…

No, trek’d…to your room!

Every key would work just once, and then you would have to go back to the front desk, approx. 1.3 miles away to get another.

Each afternoon a moto-gnome would slip into your room and leave some sort of Moto Swag. A tee shirt made with stretchy and absorbent material, a

BRIAN RATHJEN Clap on-Clap Off Device with an OEM logo stenciled on it, maybe a Kawasaki Jitterbug Large Key Phone, a Potty seat made by Corbin, and the best … a Lifefone! “Help, I’ve crashed and I can’t get up!”- which can be made in Kawi green, Honda Red, and KTM orange too. They had a Norton, but the batteries kept leaking.

At 5 o’clock there is a Happy Hour, with a few distinct groups of MJs attending. Some old MJs will have a white wine, while others have a few white wines. (But with a shot of bourbon, or three, slid quietly on the side by a cute, but slightly worn, barista that was slipped a $5-spot for the favor - It should be noted that she is the age of most of our granddaughters) The last group sips seltzer, as they were once professional bourbon sneekers, and have been forced into retirement and are surprised they were even invited to live at the Old MJ’s Home in the first place.

Every MJ knows deep down inside that these guys had more fun, every time, and that no great story ever started with a salad.

Like clockwork, we’d all be shuffled off to another room for the nightly Press Intro…A different machine every night! How exciting. We’d all take seats, with pads and pencils with various OEM logos on them (depending on the bike, of course).

At that point, a group comes in, with the corporate Logo du Jour, and proceeds to feature the Machine of the Day and to rehash why the Yamaha XJ600 or the BMW R 1200 C was the greatest machine to have ever been created. Ever.

We would all dutifully write down specs and numbers, and then be told we’d be given a memory stick that has the PowerPoint presentation.

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

WHATCHATHINKIN’ swiTching ROles “You better finish what’s on your plate or there’s no dessert.”

“If I have to turn around one more time, they’ll be something to cry about.”

“It’s all good fun until someone pokes an eye out.”

And so many more ‘Parentisms’ that filled our youthful years.

We just watched a show from Modern Marvels about the history of motorcycles. Granted, this was made in 2002 so it was missing MANY of the new history-making models of the past 20 years, but it was still pertinent, informative and entertaining.

One of the tidbits of information leading into riding motorcycles was the ‘re-entry of riders’ after a hiatus due to jobs/marriage/babies/etc. The line which caught my ear was something like ‘Now you were on your own and there were no parents to tell you what to do or not do.’

While I began riding a bit later in life - say age 30 - I was still getting the sideways glance from my parents when I told them what I was doing. Even

SHIRA KAMIL

after having published several years of this magazine, I was still asked, when heading out on a trip, if we were going by motorcycle. I would just roll my eyes and ask ‘Is there any other way to go?’

And when Brian would be off for a Press Intro, wherever it might have been, and would be gone for a bit, they would tell me to come stay with them so I wouldn’t be home alone. This from people who trekked all over the world, leaving my brother, sister and I the infamous ‘Letter Under the Blotter in case of Mutual Destruction.’ We were all terrified to sneak a peek at that, fearing that to open would bring immediate disaster. When the day did come, not due to Mutual Destruction, that we did read it, it gave the necessary instructions to carry on, starting with the simple words: ‘Don’t fight.’

But I digress, as we tend to do as we get older. Which, in a sense, is the gist of this writing.

Should we be lucky (?) enough to have children, we hope that they will grow to be strong, intelligent, productive, happy people who go beyond their dreams and abilities. We wish them health, love and all the things that bring goodness to one’s life. We might, also, inward or outwardly, hope that they take an interest in our two-wheeled lifestyle and passion.

If this, indeed, does happen then we enhance our lives even more as we can share our travels and adventures with those we love.

But, if they ‘go their own way’ without ever knowing the joy and freedom of riding, we will, someday, have a reverse-roll situation. Where we were once scolded by our parents for our dangerous ways, we will now be admonished by our children for the same thing.

We’ve all seen the characterizations of the leather-clad, grey-haired couple rockin’ down the highway, pulling into their children’s driveway while they shake their head. Or the ‘crazy older mother/father/uncle/ aunt’ who travel around the country on their motorcycle without regard for the worry it causes their relatives.

Probably one of the most difficult things to give up as we get older are the keys to our car or motorcycle.

I have seen this happen with some of the people who ride with us. While health issues are certainly something that need to be taken into consideration, just getting older in no way necessitates the surrendering of your motorcycle keys.

Just ask Gloria Tramontin about that. The 98-year-old from Clifton, New Jersey, is a legend in the motorcycling world, with inductions into the Sturgis Hall of Fame and the American Motorcycle Association Hall of Fame. She was one of the first members of Motor Maids, the oldest, longest-running women’s motorcycling organization in North America and has been riding since age 16.

So, if the kids start to give you grief, just roll your eyes and say, ‘Is there any other way to go?’ ,

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

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ON THE MARK On eveRy sunday The idea, like a lot of good ones around here, came from Dangerous Dan. He will call me on the phone and say, “Hey Mark! Do you have time for some motorcycle foolishness?” He knows that the answer is going to be “Yes” barring a tornado, earthquake, or some other literally earth-shattering event happening in my home at the time. It was no surprise then that he called me one day and said, “We should have a regular breakfast get-together every Sunday at IHOP or someplace.” It went without saying that the means of transportation to the eating establishment would have just two wheels, barring really poor conditions.

The weather here in the People’s Republic of Maryland is pretty temperate, even in the winter, and seldom would the temperature, precipitation, or a combination of the two result in having to travel in an “enclosure.” As someone who loves to ride and eat (they are nearly tied on Mark’s hierarchy of need pyramid), I readily agreed and we set a time to meet at the IHOP the coming Sunday. In the scarce daylight of winter, it gave us something to anticipate.

The first run was good, although we had to adjust our time back from ten o’clock because apparently the IHOP is a favored stopping point for the parishioners of a couple nearby churches that feature an “early service.”

MARK BYERS Nine became the number of the counting and the number of the counting has become nine. There are a couple breakfast combos and this particular IHOP is clean and has pretty good service (your mileage may vary). We usually end up “visiting” for quite a while, but our new time puts us in a sweet spot that doesn’t deny anyone else a table.

We end up talking a lot. Unsurprisingly, we talk a great deal about…motorcycles. I don’t know if other enthusiasts wax poetic like we do about their obsessions, but I guess they do. I haven’t cared to join Betsy’s quilting groups enough to find out, but I suspect the latest hop-up kit for their sewing machines at least gets token discussion - Betsy’s newest has dual optical fabric speed sensors and a laser sight. I guess that’s the sewing equivalent of a Power Commander and an Akrapovic exhaust.

One day, Motorcycle Marty called DD and asked if we could change our venue and meet at Cracker Barrel that week, because that’s where old people go - it’s the law.

So the following Sunday, we made our way through the lobby full of giant boxes of Milk Duds and bottles of “vintage” sodas to a table where we communed with fellow obsessionist MM. He caught us up on his latest eBay and Marketplace acquisitions of obscure and rare Honda Goldwing parts and other esoteric baubles like lighting kits for small-displacement, Austrian Honda police bikes. That might sound funny, but MM does a lively electronic trade across the globe of such articles.

Occasionally, we’ll throw in a token discussion about family or something besides motorcycles just to give us time to remember what other Continued on Page 6

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BACKLASH Hey, I was up in East Stroudsburg PA checking on my cars, yes cars, they both are being restored. Anyway on the way back I looked on my google maps and InHouse restaurant was close by Rte. 80 so we went there for lunch. I remembered seeing that in an article. Holy shit! the food was awesome…. all homemade “in-house. I told the girl we were here because of Backroads, and she went on to tell us about the article. On the way out my buddy picked up a copy of the magazine and said he always wanted to subscribe. I said, what the hell have you been waiting for!!

In the same vein, while riding one Sunday we stopped at a place at the entrance of Round Valley reservoir, next to the old Rolling Fast. Twin Goats Café https://www.facebook.com/TwinGoatsCafe/ this place used to be The General Store. This place is vegan, polar opposite of what I eat, but we stopped in because we were hungry and there was nothing open that late in the area..on a Sunday no less. We had a burrito and it had an egg in it so that counts as meat to me….My point was the food was excellent—way above normal!! The coffee was the 2nd best, maybe close to the first best I ever had. The women who runs the place has talent. So when we rolled up, there were 3 bikes rolling out, this is a small place NOT good for bike groups, but if you’re in the area, stop in and try the food and coffee.

Merry Christmas, happy Holidays and happy Hanukkah, Gary Good Morning I would like to have a subscription to your magazine sent to my home in Walkerton Ontario Canada. Can this be done and if so how much would it cost for an annual subscription?

I am an avid VJMC motorcycle guy who enjoys riding, therefore would enjoy your magazine.

Take care and have a great Christmas!

John Good Morning, John, Thanks for reaching out. We just saw the piece that Mike wrote (in VJMC magazine) - very nice of him. We do have subscriptions available to Canada

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

Letters to the Editor - $40 US for a year. You can either do this with a credit card online: backroadsusa.com/subscription Or mail a check to: Backroads, PO Box 620, Augusta, NJ 07822 We do make the print issue available online about a month after subscribers receive theirs. We have about 10+ years already posted, free for the reading: issuu.com/backroadsmagazine Hope you enjoy Backroads and you have a terrific 2024.

From The Backroads Report...Best Roads in the Northeast Betsy and I ride 519 every time we come to see you. It is indeed a great ride. Even though we are always itching to see you and end the ride up from MD, the bridge from Easton to Phillipsburg is free that direction and 519 is a pretty and relaxing straight shot to Backroads Zentrum.

Not sure why they chose VT 7 over Route 100. That is a fail on their part and misses The Gray Ghost...

Last time we rode the Kanc it was gravel (being repaved). Challenging but nice, I guess. Not sure it lives up to the hype.

Mark Mark, Indeed...BUT - We didn’t write that. In fact, except for our own lead articles, The Backroads Report features a plethora of great and reliable sources; an eclectic gathering of what is out there in the vast expanse of the non-AI internet.

Something to keep folks interested in what’s beyond the next hill.

Your magazine is the best! Each time I receive one in the mail I pick a place or business to ride to.

Bill H. Bill, Thanks so much for the kind words and your support. Please let the folks at the places you visit know you saw it in Backroads.

Have a joyous Christmas and a fun, happy and healthy New Year. Here’s to more great places to visit in 2024.

Continued from Page 3 FRee wheelin’ Not surprisingly, the same old group asks the same old questions that only Jet Propulsion Laboratories could possibly answer.

This is where the phrase “We’ll circle back to you” was invented as none of these Old MJs Home staff know the “exact degree the camshaft is opening the intake valve” or “why the anti-matter brake system only operates on Tuesday.”

Right after the staff says they’ll ‘circle back’ for the 13th time, we all go to dinner. They would only serve over-rich foods – lots of bacon –and the nurses are hired by the same company that hires the baristas – most of them former umbrella girls from MotoGP and WSB. Still as young as our granddaughters.

But, hey, she ain’t my granddaughter, okay?

Each night the Old MJ’s Home shows a film. Maybe the 1995 Daytona 200, or a remake of It’s a Wonderful Life with James Stewart playing Jimmy Stewart’s role, or endless episodes of Top Gear.

At night’s end, we’re all tucked into bed by a pretty nurse, who giggles at our very serious move on them with…the ever-deflating, ‘Ahh, you’re so cute.”

We were. Once. ,

On The Mark

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motorcycle crap we wanted to bring up. Nothing heavy, you know, like “How’d your brain transplant go?” Just lightweight material designed to provide a conversational comma between moto clauses. Other people’s recent mergers and acquisitions come up, like any of Wheeler-Dealer Doug’s latest miracles of motorcycle acquisition.

We even allow guests, as poor Restorer Phil’s wife found out one morning. It must not have been too painful, as she is a repeat offender. She was the source of a great point of discussion last week: Phil is an excellent example of a true motorcycle lover. He bought an SV-1000 that needed some work, but never satisfied with just “getting it running” or “making it pass inspection,” Phil was procuring parts to make the big SV a “honey.” I contributed a set of Dunlop sport tires to the effort - at a reasonable fare. We all agreed that none of us would want to shortchange an acquisition by making it less than its potential. That would be disrespectful of the motorcycle.

We have to move this Sunday’s meeting to Saturday, because DD and his brother, Speedy Stuart, are racing the Hangover Hare Scramble on Sunday and the only thing more important than the breakfast ride is anything else having to do with riding motorcycles, especially riding dirt ones in competition.

Hopefully the weather will allow SS to trek here from Bluefield and we’ll convene with DD, RP, MM, and me at an appropriate spot to exchange vital information about our two-wheeled occupassions. ,

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INDUSTRY INFOBITES

News from the Inside

COREY ALEXANDER TO JOIN RAHAL MOTOAMERICA TEAM Team owners Bobby and Graham Rahal, who announced the formation of Rahal Ducati Moto late last year, confirmed they are adding a third bike to their Rahal Ducati Moto (RDM) team.

2022 MotoAmerica Stock 1000 Champion Corey Alexander will join the RDM stable aboard a Ducati Panigale V2 in the MotoAmerica Supersport class, alongside teammates PJ Jacobsen and Kayla Yaakov. However, his bike will carry a different primary sponsor, Kentucky-based Roller Forming, a Custom Roll Form Manufacturing The three-rider team, which has five-time AMA Champion, 2009 World Superbike Champion and MotoGP race winner Ben Spies as team principal, is set to make its mark in the upcoming MotoAmerica season, which commences with the 82nd running of the historic Daytona 200, a non-points-paying Supersport race that will take place at Daytona International Speedway, March 7-9.

METZELER KAROO TIRES AND THE BMW R 1300 GS:

from 0 to 6000 meters above sea level in less than 24 hours Stock motorbikes and standard tires took on an extreme challenge. A team representing the METZELER brand and BMW Motorrad, riding a fleet of BMW R 1300 GS equipped with Metzeler Karoo 4 tires, reached, and surpassed 6000 (19,685 feet) meters above sea level, starting from the sea, in less than 24 hours.

A very difficult ascent for riders, motorbikes, and tires, culminated on the notorious North face of Nevado Ojos del Salado, where the expedition reached 6006 meters (19,704 feet) in just 19 hours and 22 minutes, ultimately reaching a maximum altitude of 6027 meters.

The riders who were onboard entirely stock BMW R 1300 GS’s with Metzeler tires were Salvatore Pennisi, Metzeler Testing and Technical Relation Director, Christof Lischka, Head of BMW Motorrad Development, Michele Pradelli, Italian extreme enduro champion and tester for the Italian magazine InMoto plus Karsten Schwers, tester and journalist for the German

magazine Motorrad.

Salvatore Pennisi, Director of Testing and Technical Relations at Metzeler, stated: “This expedition has allowed us to confirm the strong relationship between Metzeler and BMW Motorrad but above all to demonstrate the value of two strictly standard products that anyone can purchase and use even in the most challenging conditions. The ascent to 6000 meters was extremely tough, especially for our crew who had to undergo a demanding physical preparation before getting on the bikes. So, even before expressing our joy for the effectiveness of our tires, congratulations to the riders are a must.”

The new BMW R 1300 GS, in the sizes 120/70 R19 front and 170/60 R17 rear, uses Metzeler Tourance Next 2 tires as original equipment on all versions, while Metzeler Karoo 4 are offered as an optional fitment for the offroad use. With the Metzeler Karoo 4 tires the BMW R 1300 GS expresses perfect riding characteristics in off-road use and in the search for adventure.

DUCATI CORSE OFF-ROAD IS BORN Die and company.

Paolo Ciabatti will be the General Manager of the new structure and Mauro Grassilli will become the new Sporting, Marketing and Communications Director of Ducati Corse.

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

Wanamakers General Store presents

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN chiMney ROck inn

800 ThOMpsOn avenue, BOund BROOk, nJ 08805 732-469-4600 • www.chimneyrockinn.com Sean Connery has a great line in the movie The Rock about “The Best”.

Wishing to keep Mr. Byers with us, and a small percentage of our readership, we’ll leave that to you to seek out.

But we will tell you about some seriously good pizza in the middle of the Garden State – so good it has been called “The Best” by more discriminating palettes than ours.

This place also has some serious American history tucked away in this part of New Jersey… and we’ll taste a bit of that as well.

But first, let’s take a ride to The Rock.

The rock spire is interesting, but what grabbed our history-starved brains was the wonderful marker high above the valley below.

It talked about how the newly formed United States adopted the Stars &

tasty places to take your bike

Stripes as the official 13-star American flag, and went on to tell how his excellency General Washington and his troops learned of a British wagon train, making their way to Philadelphia.

Washington’s men attacked, and the British turned back from the march and retreated to Staten Island. Later that same month British General Cornwallis made a counterattack -which failed.

At the bottom of the marker stated that “The British never occupied New Jersey again” Damn right they didn’t.

But we came here to talk about a superb eatery – and the Chimney Rock Inn is certainly that.

The Rock, as many call it, has two locations, but we are sticking with the original in Bound Brook. Rolling up on a nice day, or evening when the lights are on, it is hard to ignore the giant “Eat at the Rock” signage.

The place has been entertaining locals and travelers for many years. Back in 1863, the Chimney Rock Hotel opened, and from what history we could find it was a pretty happening place with stories of liquor, oysters, and cigars. That building was torn down in 1954 and the current Chimney Rock Inn opened its doors.

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

The owners at the Chimney Rock Inn embrace their history. The menu and website all rightfully boast “Since 1863”. And the outlined image of the famed Chimney Rock itself is used in their advertising. They have even trademarked the outline of the rock.

We rode down on a fine late fall afternoon to have lunch with our friend Doctor John – a true gentleman if there ever was one.

John was very familiar with The Rock.

The place has several big dining rooms, as well as tables and booths sprinkled around the bar.

The menu is as big as the history and The Rock itself. Starters of pierogies, ribs, fried pickles, and nachos can be had. We heard the wings were awesome too. They offer a wide selection of sandwiches as well… now called ‘handhelds’ as some younger folks do not understand how a sandwich works. Smoked beef brisket, Mayan chipotle grilled chicken, and one that caught our eye - Grown Up Grilled Cheese…Perfectly grilled with three cheeses, smoked beef brisket, BBQ sauce, and toss in some pickles and onion crisps as well. Are you a taco rider? The Chimney Rock has five different offerings for you too – chicken, ground beef, brisket, mahi mahi, and pork.

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Of course, they have burgers, of all types and tastes – there is certainly one for you. They also have plates of some of their favorites; salads, pasta and more - the point being it is impossible to ride away hungry from The Rock!

But they are known for one thing in particular; some of the best pizza in New Jersey.

Wow…., we know – big words in the Garden State – especially for a restaurant that has much more to offer.

BUT… they have been doing something incredible for decades; right below where Washington and the boys spied the British. There is even a legend that George and crew were just waiting for the Chimney Rock Inn and the pizza itself to be invented, and just happened to see the pesky Redcoats marching and thought.. “Ahh, what the hell, we’re here. let’s get them.”

Pizza, pizza, pizza!

You want it, the Chimney Rock most likely has it – maybe some pizzas you have never thought of, and all thin crust, and all pretty much perfect.

The Artisan was first created by their founder and built with a unique crushed tomato sauce, a blend of grana padano & mozzarella cheeses, a splash of spice & fresh basil. The Rock says… ‘Let your senses enjoy every morsel of each masterpiece.’ What about a pretzel mac & cheese pizza?

Right – we never heard of that one either. There is a Margherita rosa, with pink vodka sauce and family-sized Whopper.

If you come with a group – a hungry group - order a couple of Epic pies. A full 28 inches in diameter and 20 slices – five riders – four slices each; and you can have this any way you want. Backroads is not throwing this out as a challenge, but if you and your crew do this send us the picture.

We think you will truly enjoy this month’s stop on the Great All-American Diner Run… it is as solid as a rock! ,

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

Warren County Tourism presents

BIG CITY GUITAR GETAWAY TaylOR guiTaRs

1980 gillespie way, el caJOn, ca 92020 taylorguitars.com We are going to continue on our musical road trip this month with a visit across the continent to the southern California city of El Cajon, the proud home of Taylor Guitars; so much so the guitar maker is a big part of the town’s welcoming sign.

Nice!

We have been spending a bit of time in San Diego, and we were tickled to hear back from Jim Kirlin, the editorial director for Taylor when we asked if a tour of their factory was possible.

After signing in at the reception desk and being told that Jim would be down in a bit to take us around, we did have time to look at the lobby which is part museum, part store, and part education center.

The company was started back in 1974 by Bob Taylor and Bob Lustug, who met while working at a “hippie” guitar shop in San Diego called American Dream. When the place came up for sale, the two, just 19 & 21 years old, made the jump and the journey from a small guitar shop to one of the world’s finest guitar makers began.

Taylor prides itself on its approach to guitar

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind making and the sources and sustainability of the wood that is used. At one point that meant driving to local lumber yards to see what they could get.

Things are different now, very different.

We know the “S” word is used for far too many things these days, but with fine guitar making, as with other musical instruments, we get it; but Bob Taylor and company got it a long time ago. Today, Taylor employs over 1,200 people and produces hundreds of guitars per day exclusively in their two factory complexes: El Cajon, California, and Tecate, Baja California, Mexico. Taylor does not manufacture any guitars in Asia. Today Taylor gui-

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

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sign and sleek neck profile, and Taylor’s neck and body assembly process is extremely precise and allows every neck angle to be set with extreme accuracy and easily maintained throughout the life of the guitar.

Maintenance is key too – as Taylor is very proud of their service and support.

If you ever have a problem with your Taylor- they will handle it.

Taylor is hoping to restart their factory tours later this year… if so, and you are riding just west of San Diego, they are well worth the visit, and if you are a guitarist, the investment. , tars are sold through hundreds of retail locations in North America and with international distribution to 60 countries.

In the lobby and the adjoining store, you can learn about the different wood that Taylor uses, and from where it originates. The company owns farms and works with reforestation projects in Cameroon and Hawaii and are leaders in making guitars from formerly discarded end-of-life urban trees.

Jim joined us and we began what would be a good long walk through the Taylor facility – which was just a few notes higher than amazing; to see how the raw wood is stored and then chosen for tone and beauty; each wood offering a different tone and character.

Taylors are known for their precision, each guitar is made to exact specifications. During this tour we got to see how Taylor has evolved their guitar-building expertise with combinations of modern and computer-controlled milling and routing machines, laser-cutter and a team of incredibly talented luthiers who then hand-build each Taylor guitar.

There are many guitar makers both here in the United States and overseas – but Taylor feels the way they do things sets them apart. In addition to the sustainability, there is their craftsmanship and their wide variety of guitar shapes and tones; as everything that goes into a guitar makes subtle differences.

The hardwoods Taylor uses for a guitar’s back and sides (the same species is used for both) contribute rigidity and stability to an acoustic guitar body. This helps generate more sustain from notes as they ring out. The back and side woods also emphasize certain resonant frequencies in ways that add unique sonic colors and textures to the guitar’s overall sound.

Taylor also feels they have the most playable necks in the industry. They have a patented neck joint de-

The winter months are a perfect time to learn, explore and improve your musical talents. Whether it’s guitar, piano, harmonica or the accordion, put the non-riding hours to good use.

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA

Queen esTheR’s BlOOdy ROck

susQuehanna ave – neaR 7Th sTReeT, wyOMing, pa This is an historical tale, with two different stories that foretell two different legends from Mysterious America.

No matter which you are to believe, the stories are violent and messy, and they involve a 14-year-old boy and his mother seeking revenge for his death.

Story #1 The story goes that after learning of the death of her 14-year-old son due to a violent argument between him and a drunken townsman, Queen Esther ordered the raid of a nearby farm as revenge for her loss. The exact number of victims killed in the raid has been debated but documents report that a man by the name of Arthur Van Rossum and his wife Janna of Sayre were killed and scalped on September 27, 1778. A military force of two hundred men under the command of Colonel Thomas Hartley was created and started up the Susquehanna River to Tioga Point, finally reaching the hilly area of Queen Esther. Hartley and his men were confronted by Iroquois warriors resulting in a fierce battle. After several hours of heavy fighting, the Iroquois warriors were overrun by Hartley and his men forcing them to retreat. News of her warriors’ defeat quickly reached Queen Esther who attempted to flee with the women and children of her village into the surrounding forests in hopes of escaping

to the Chemung River.

Historians have argued over the exact details of what occurred next, but the widely accepted claim is that Hartley and his men caught up with the fleeing villagers and forced them to march to a nearby pond. The women and children were lined up on the pond’s bank and executed in mass numbers as Queen Esther was forced to watch the ordeal.

The bodies of the victims were then dumped into the water to deny them the proper burial practiced by the Iroquois people.

In this story, Queen Esther was then lynched by a nearby oak tree and dismembered before being thrown into the pond with the murdered villagers.

Early documents have reported that the screams of the victims could be heard from the town of Athens which was over several miles away.

The region was reportably cursed by the Queen with her dying breath.

Rumors have been reported of hunters seeing a young girl weeping as she hangs from the branches of an oak tree. When hunters run to investigate, she suddenly vanishes leaving no trace of her ever having been there. However, hunters claim that after experiencing this ordeal, their weapons fail to fire if not checked before. Some believe this is Queen Esther attempting to prevent any more villagers from being killed.

But there seems to be always two sides to the story.

Story #2 The second story is, unfortunately, just as disturbing and bloody.

On July 3, 1778, an army of 300 patriot troops met a force of British soldiers, Tories, and Seneca Indians, numbering nearly 1,110 strong. The British force was moving south along the frontier, burning colonial homesteads from New York to Pennsylvania. With most of the men of the Wyo-

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

ming settlement away serving under General Washington in the Continental Army, defense of the village fell upon those remaining, namely young boys and elderly men. In hopes of saving the settlement, the tiny troop marched under the leadership of Colonel Zebulon Butler, to meet their attackers. The rag-tag bunch formed a line of defense along present-day 4th Street in Wyoming. Outnumbered and overpowered, the line fell within minutes. Nearly all of the patriot’s 300 forces were killed.

Those who escaped were forced to flee by way of the river.

The British invaders then marched into the fort, pillaging the settlement.

Fearing for their lives, some 200 women and children fled the fort only to become victims of the American wilderness.

What happened next was like that horrible scene in The Walking Dead when Negan and Lucille did the dirty deeds.

As night fell a new terror began to unfold. A handful of survivors, all men, were rounded up and led to a rock on the slopes above the river in what is

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now the 200 block of Susquehanna Avenue in Wyoming. Here the brave patriots were placed in a circle around the rock. Warriors restrained the men while Queen Esther, chieftain of the Seneca nation, danced around her captives wielding a stone maul and “shrieking a chant so shrill and dreadful, that it echoed across the river like the call of a demon.”

She smashed the heads of fourteen townspeople while they were held down by her warriors. One for each year of her boy.

They simply massacred the rest.

Days later 14 bodies were found near the rock, each crushed, scalped, and mangled.

Accounts of the massacre spread quickly throughout the colonies and overseas. News of the British-sanctioned “tortures” won countless European allies for the American cause. Tales of Queen Esther’s actions in Wyoming became legendary the world over. Although historians have begun to question Queen Esther’s involvement in the Wyoming massacre, legend has forever linked her to the bloody event. History has it that Esther lived well into her 70s passing away in what is now Seneca County, NY. Today a portion of the famous stone around which Queen Esther unleashed her revenge remains along Susquehanna Avenue near Seventh Street. Next to the rock lies a bronze tablet that reads, “Upon this rock, the Indian Queen Esther slaughtered the brave patriots taken in the battle of July 3, 1778.”

Certainly a part of Mysterious America. O’Life Out! ,

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

Wytheville VA Tourism presents

WE’RE OUTTA HERE inn aT The canal

104 BOheMia avenue, chesapeake ciTy, Md 21915 410-885-5995 • www.innatthecanal.com I like discovering new places, and new things and like to think I take these finds well, and understand what they are.

This especially comes into play when you get a chance to stay at a home that has been around for centuries and whose original owners were a strong, vibrant, and important part of the region’s fascinating history.

My better half likes to look at apps like Trip Advisor.

For sure there were some very nice, and well-deserved comments to be found here, some of the negative ones were obviously written by a traveler who knew not where they were staying.

The Inn at the Canal is special, and forgive them if they do not try to be a more modern home or inn. There is an interstate not too far away and I am sure someone is ‘leaving the light’ on for these people there.

Me? I like old wide plank floors, out of the ordinary layouts and a view that has been viewed by other like-minded travelers for decades.

This is real America.

A quick look at the inn’s website gives us a great view of its deep history.

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads “The Inn at the Canal makes its home in what was known as the Brady-Reese House. It was built in 1870. The building is considered the best example of the Victorian Gothic style in the town of Chesapeake City, Maryland.

Henry Brady was the owner of mule teams that were used to pull barges through the original version of the Chesapeake and Delaware (C&D) Canal. Mr. Brady was among the wealthiest men in town. When his wife gave birth to a son, he rewarded the family (he and his wife also had two daughters) by building this home. There are many architectural details from the time that still remain today.

In 1987, the building was converted into a bed and breakfast. At that time, it became the first bed and breakfast in Cecil County, MD. Sarah and Ed O’Hara are the fourth owners of the Inn at the Canal. They moved to Chesapeake City from South Burlington, Vermont. When they moved, they had two goals in mind. First, become successful independent business owners.

Second, move closer to their adult children and their grandchildren. As Ed recently said to a recent guest, ‘We bought a good business. We intend to make it even better.’”

We think Ed and Sarah have done just that.

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Unlike some inns that make you feel like simply the next guest, we got a far warmer vibe from Ed and crew.

The ‘Rummer Lounge’ bar was happening this Sunday afternoon in October, and we could see how The Rum Garden porch and lawn tables – with its superb view of the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal - would be the place to be on a late afternoon arrival.

Oh, yes! The bikes softly ticking away as they cooled down, and you do as well; with one of the Inn’s superb hand-created rum concoctions.

Every adult beverage has been wonderfully thought out and created with a dose of happiness here at the Inn at the Canal.

Before we go through the rest of the inn let us talk about its location…

The inn is right above the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal. This 14-milelong passageway that connects the Delaware Bay and the Chesapeake Bay cuts 300 miles of a trip from Philadelphia to Baltimore, and it is one of the most heavily traveled canals on the planet.

It is of major importance - but in Chesapeake City, you will also find a museum dedicated to the canal and its history – which is well worth the visit.

The inn has seven comfortable rooms, all created with an airy maritime/

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Americana flavor to them. All of them are very comfortable and if you require more room the inn has the Upper Bay Suite available which includes a large bedroom with a California king-sized mattress, kitchenette, sitting area, and private bathroom. The Suite also boasts a private balcony that overlooks the C&D Canal.

We loved the wonderful historic feel of the Inn and the canal – the wide plank floors, the layout, and flair that seem to permeate the place.

You also get privacy here, and in the evening when the bar closes down, you will be left comfortably alone.

Breakfast and coffee in the morning can be found right across the street at Café on the Bay. The Inn offers a voucher towards your meal, whether it be breakfast or lunch. We grabbed some delicious muffins and really excellent coffee here and sat down by the canal to greet the day.

Chesapeake City also has several restaurants, and the town itself is well worth exploring.

When riding down towards The Bay consider an overnight along the busiest canal in the world and say hello to the O’Hara’s; they certainly will make you feel at home. ,

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

Yes, it’s winter and yes, as I write this in January we received our first dump of snow. For all of you who embrace the winter for skiing, snowmobiling, etc. I salute you. Enjoy this white wonderland.

For me, this time of year is filled with planning - pulling out maps, doing research on places we have yet to visit, plotting routes and finding interesting destinations. And watching the not-so-accurate weather apps to see when the temperatures start moving upward. Right now, ‘they’ are predicting a high of 55 in a couple of days and, hopefully, that will remove the packed snow from the driveway for the next random rideable days. We are about a month out from Pitchers and Catchers reporting (a baseball thing, for you non-sporting folk), which is my portend of impending spring, no matter what the Mets actually do this year.

But more immediately, and giving me something to anticipate, is February 3. ‘What’s so special about that date, Shira?’ you ask. Well, my ice cream loving readers, that is National Eat Ice Cream for Breakfast Day. Not so momentous, but I’ll take whatever I can at this time of year.

Back in the 1960, Florence Rappaport, in Rochester, NY, put this date on the calendar while trying to entertain her six children on a snowy February day. I’m sure Florence had no idea this would become a ‘thing’ but generations of Rappaports kept the celebration going and it has spread worldwide.

Ice Cream for Breakfast Day is officially celebrated on the first Saturday of February. While there really aren’t any ‘rules’ there are three things which must be done: 1) Eat ice cream 2) On the first Saturday of February 3) For breakfast. Pretty easy…

I am very sure that there are many ice cream shops that have some sort of ritual or celebration, perhaps special flavors developed and you can find one or two near you. For the past several years, I have been having my ice cream for breakfast at a local farm which has embraced the tradition. Tranquility Farms at 47 Decker Pond Road in Green Township, NJ has their ice cream window open year round, scooping out homemade ice cream every day. In addition to their delicious ice cream eaten there, you can bring it home along with freshly baked pies, donuts and cookies for which to adorn your own sundae creations.

Their Ice Cream for Breakfast concotions are not only very tasty but Instagrammable, for those who like to share their meals on social media. In the past their sundaes have included Bacon, Cinnamon Bun and Waffle and their cereal bowl sundaes were topped with Cinnamon Toast Crunch, Fruity Pebbles or Rice Krispy Treats. Sounds just about perfect to me. www.tranquillityfarmsnj.com Another stop on the Breakfast Bandwagon is Guerriero’s Gelato. If you’ve been reading this column for a while, you’ll know that I have a semi-love affair with their gelato flavors. Whenever I am in Morristown for a show at MPAC, I do my best to stop in before or after to satisfy my cravings. There

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are four shops currently, with a fifth set to open in Teaneck, NJ very soon. At this writing I am not sure exactly what Mike Guerriero has planned for his Ice Cream for Breakfast celebration or at which shops, but knowing his inventive nature and flavors, I’m sure you will not be disappointed. As they say about their Birthday Cake flavor, ‘It’s got milk, eggs and bread - a full breakfast in every bite.’ Check out their website (www.guerrierogelato.com) or Facebook page (www.facebook.com/guerrierocaldwell) for the details.

If you can’t make it out to either of these shops for this particular day, make sure you put in on your ‘ToDo’ list for another time. Tranquility Farms is in an excellent riding area and Guerriero’s is just worth it.

I’ve been making my own ice cream for a few years now and, if the weather is more forecast for the skiers out there than the riders, I may just churn up my own breakfast flavors. I just made some really great coffee ice cream but this one caught my eye - Earl Grey Ice Cream with Chocolate Toffee and Shortbread Crumble. Or how about this for a decadent breakfast - Vanilla Ice Cream Bread Pudding with Whiskey Caramel?

Enjoy the winter whatever helps you pass the time and remember, you’re an adult; you can eat ice cream for breakfast any day of the year. ,

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

Words: Dan Bisbee • Photos: Dan Bisbee & Eric Milano

Vermont is a great state for riding motorcycles. In addition to 7000 miles of paved roads, it also contains 8600 miles of dirt roads. As a dedicated street rider, I have only sampled a few of the dirt roads, preferring the more predictable traction of pavement. Still, riding in Vermont means dirt roads are inevitable and I really should be more comfortable riding in the dirt.

Fortunately for me, help is available in the form of the two-day Introduction to Adventure class offered by MotoVermont.

Eric Milano and Spenser Peterson of MotoVermont offer a series of offroad instruction classes and tours. The Introduction to Adventure is geared

toward people like me who are interested in adventure riding but need a place to start. If your bike is not adventure-capable, MotoVermont can provide a bike. For the true adventure experience, on-site camping is an option but, for newbies like me, lodging is available nearby.

Friday evening was a meet-and-greet at the training site. Recent heavy rains and flooded roads turned my planned 20-minute trip from the hotel into a 45-minute excursion but I made it in time to enjoy Eric’s slow roasted brisket while getting to know my fellow students. There were seven of us ranging in age from the early thirties to the mid-sixties and our riding experience ranged from three years to over fifty years.

Saturday dawned with clear skies and cool temperatures. I arrived for an overview of the class and I was introduced to my bike for the weekend: A mighty Yamaha XT250. It turned out to be the perfect bike for this class.

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

The training facility is a small field nestled next to the New Haven River beneath the 4000-foot Mount Abraham.

Various training obstacles were scattered around for some exercises while other drills used strategically placed cones.

We would ride each obstacle multiple times before moving on to the next.

This weekend was all about balance and control. We started with control: by walking our bikes through the field, modulating the speed with the clutch while maintaining a steady throttle position. Controlling my speed with the fingers of my left hand rather than with my right wrist was different and it was a delicate balance to maintain a comfortable walking speed. Just when I got the hang of it, we headed to the bottom of the hill, using the clutch to rock the bike back and forth. Again, it took a few tries to get the feel of it.

Our next exercise was about balance. Swerving through a series of cones, pushing the bike beneath us while keeping our weight on the outside peg and wagging our tails. It seemed counterintuitive but we all got the hang of it after a few passes, even as Eric tightened the cone spacing.

Our final exercise for this morning was a braking drill. We approached the skid zone and locked the rear wheel to feel how the bike reacted. Next, we added the front brake after locking the rear, drastically shortening our stopping distance. After several passes, it began to feel normal.

By this time, we were getting a little hungry and we headed out for lunch. The roads, still scarred from recent flooding, were a mixture of loose gravel and minor washouts. Still, I felt more confident on them than I would have even

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a day before. The Lincoln General Store is one of those old-time general stores that carries the necessities as well as having an outstanding deli and the fresh-made sandwich hit the spot.

After lunch, we rode back to the training area for the rut drill. This was to simulate a washedout road where the two tire tracks are washed out, leaving a high crown in the center. While it might seem better to ride the crown, Eric advised riding the rut. His reasoning was that if you ride the crown, and need to stop, you may have no way to put your feet down. In this exercise, we rode through a rut on the first pass. The second couple of passes involved bumping against the side of the rut. Finally, we approached along the side and dropped down into the rut.

Next, we were off to the training hill. At the start of the incline, we stopped the bike and then

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used the clutch to hold the bike stationary before slowly rocking it back and forth while maintaining a steady throttle. Then we rode up the hill slowly using just the clutch to control our speed. We repeated this exercise several times until we could do it well. The next logical step was to go down the hill. First coasting down with the clutch pulled in and then adding front brake to inch down. Finally, we slalomed through sets of cones that Eric and Spenser kept changing. You couldn’t tell where to go until you crested the hill. This required use of the front brake, along with a touch of the rear brake to weave through the cones.

Our final exercise for the day was what Eric called a Hill-Fail TurnAround. That’s when you get half way up a steep hill on a narrow path and realize you can’t make it. Step 1: dump the clutch to stall the bike which allows the rear wheel to hold the bike in position. Step 2: take a minute to assess the situation. Step 3: lean the bike over and, using the clutch, back it around as much as possible. Step 4: With the bike mostly perpendicular to the hill and leaned to the uphill side, wag the bars back and forth. The front will slowly start to move down the hill to a point where it can be safely guided back down the hill. I wouldn’t have believed it if I hadn’t tried it myself.

To end the day, Mike Leyden arrived and gave us an overview on wilderness first aid and what to do if someone gets hurt and you can’t call 911.

Important stuff. While he was speaking, Eric made dinner for us on the grill: chicken with fresh zucchini and squash along with some skillet fried potatoes. The dinner was excellent and provided a perfect end to the day.

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

Over the course of the weekend, Eric and Spenser held a series of demonstrations while we rehydrated and snacked. In addition to the first aid overview, Eric showed us all the safety gear he wears – a lot. Spenser demonstrated fixing a flat tire in the middle of nowhere – he made it look easy.

The weather delivered on day two as well and I arrived in time for a slice of quiche and hash made with Friday night’s brisket along with coffee. Then we were off to do some figure-eights. Eric marked out a couple of boxes with cones and then we went in one at a time with Eric telling us to look through the turn, weight the outside peg, push the bike down, feather the clutch. My first pass was a complete disaster but, after a few times through, it came easier.

We then broke up into two groups. My group started with the log crossing.

Eric demonstrated bouncing on the pegs to get the front suspension extended when hitting the log. This would allow us to cross the log with minimal suspension upset. Hit it right and the bike smoothly sails over the log. Hit it

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wrong and the seat smacks you in the butt. We had our first incident here as one student lost his grip on the bars and landed with the front wheel crooked, causing the bike to take a “grass nap”. Eric turned this into a teachable moment by demonstrating how to pick up a downed bike.

We then switched to the rock garden; a 30-footlong path strewn with various sized rocks. Spenser showed us how to pick a line and then focus farther ahead. The bike twitched over the rocks but we all made it. After a few passes, he jumbled up the rocks making the next passes trickier.

After a break, it was time for our road trip. We headed down a typical Vermont dirt road riddled with small washouts. At one point a culvert had backed up and water rushed across the road. The local constabulary were awaiting the highway department with their Road Closed signs but waved us through. Soon, we arrived at Norton Farm Road: an unmaintained over-

grown dirt road that dead ends two miles up in the National Forest. Our first challenge was a washed out rocky uphill. We attacked it one at a time duckwalking through the biggest boulders. The clutch exercises and the rock garden training paid off here. The recent heavy rains created several deep puddles. Crossing these put all our training to use: stand on the pegs, steady throttle, feather the clutch, look farther ahead. Yes! We all made it through. Near the end of the road, Eric stopped and pointed out the cellar hole for the old Norton farm for whom the road is named. We struggled a bit getting here on modern motorcycles. I can’t imagine getting here with oxen 200 years ago.

On our return down Norton Farm Road, we crossed all the same obstacles but with much more confidence and sensed a little victory when we got back to the maintained dirt. Our way back included a late lunch at the Lincoln General Store before returning to the train-

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ing area. I found myself riding these dirt roads with a much higher level of confidence and wondering what’s next.

Fortunately, MotoVermont has me covered with additional training and trips. The next logical step would be their twoday intermediate - advanced training class. They also offer multi-day guided rides across northern or southern Vermont featuring some spectacular unmaintained roads. After that, I could join MotoVermont on one of their epic week-long adventure rides in other parts of the country. If I just wanted to ride in New England, MotoVermont has me covered as well as they offer a complete range of bikes for rent.

A few weeks after taking this training, I was out riding and came to an intersection where one way was paved and the other was dirt. Without much thought, I chose the dirt and discovered a fantastic road that led to a waterfall under some shady trees, something I would have completely missed on the paved option. Now I have another 8600 miles of Vermont to discover.

Find out what MotoVermont has to offer: MotoVermont.com ,

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PRODUCT REVIEW

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

SCHUBERTH E2 HELMET

Riding west, the afternoon sun was blinding. Even with sunglasses and the inner dark shield in place, it was almost impossible to see. Not a good situation while riding.

It was late autumn and I was waiting to have my cataracts taken care of.

Even though I knew any bright light was a hindrance, it was not going to stop me from riding. I needed to find a solution, and quickly.

What I found certainly helped this situation and much more.

The Schuberth E2 is the second generation of Schuberth’s adventure helmets. Combining the comfort of their tested and popular flip-up ‘C’ series with the aggressive look and feel of an offroad helmet, the E2, with adjustable fit, in addition to all the other fine features, would help to solve my problem, with style and comfort.

My Explorer Green E2 came with the SC2 communication system, powered by Sena, and an easy installation. While I have been used to my in-ear plugs with speakers, I found the HD speakers have excellent sound and the quietness of the helmet only adds to the definition. The Mesh 2.0 technology delivers the ability to connect with many other riders with the same system, should that be in your wheelhouse. What I really like is that there is no latency between communications, which could not only cause anxiety in a conversation, but could possibly cause much more (‘HEY, watch out for the car pulling out!’)

Bringing safety to the platform, Schuberth’s E2 features the P/J double homologation meeting ECE-R 22.06 standards. The shell is fiberglass with their patented Direct Fiber Processing Technology and reinforced with carbon fiber for improved shock absorption and lighter weight. The Anti-Roll-Off system, which keeps things quiet and comfortable, is connected with a D-ring closing chin strap positioned to improve comfort on the throat area.

When riding with the face shield down, the ventilation system works quite well. There is a double chin air intake: the top vent prevents the visor from fogging in cold conditions while the lower vent adds to the airflow in warm weather. In addition, the chin vent features a washable and changeable filter should you happen to have ridden through a sand storm. The top ventilation system is also revamped with a two-position adjustability and a new enlarged spoiler including an air extractor to ensure an excellent airflow.

Getting back to the adjustable fit, the Schuberth E2 sets a new benchmark in terms of comfort. While the standard head pad has been developed to offer the most comfortable of fits, those with ‘extreme head shapes’ (Schuberth’s words, not mine) don’t have to compromise. Through a study done, Schuberth determined

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

there are 5 different head shapes – round extreme, round, normal, oval and oval extreme. Schuberth’s Individual Program allows for customization of the internal padding with thinner or thicker options for sides and back. The cheek pads are also adaptable, with Sport cheek pads for a more aggressive and stable fit and Comfort for a softer and looser fit. These options are available in sizes M/L/XL.

And the reason I opted for the Schuberth E2 from the beginning – the adjustable peak. Developed in the Schuberth wind tunnel, the new peak minimizes buffeting and vibrations. The adjustable peak has 3 positions for configuration as well as being removed completely. First introduced on Schuberth’s E1, the memory function allows you to set the exact position of the visor and peak, which will keep that setting after opening and closing of the chin bar. The inner dark visor, which can be set to any position as it is not a ‘clickable’ setting but a smooth slider, took care of any additional sun glare

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not blocked by the peak.

Okay, so now you know how the helmet is made and all the safety, aerodynamic and aeroacoustic ingredients – but how is it in real life wear?

At first donning, as a proper fitting helmet should be, it was on the snug side. I immediately noticed how quiet it was, dulling down any outside noise that were present. As one will do, I compared it to the helmet I had been using and found the opening to be a little more constricted. However, after adjusting the peak position, I was much more comfortable with the view from inside. The SC2 communications work flawlessly, with the sound clear and instant. The airflow kept the helmet comfortably cool. I did not notice any ‘hot spots’ during my riding, but with all helmets, a break-in period is always necessary. As is the case with modular helmets, they are slightly heavier than full-face but the added benefit of the flip-up, I find, far outweighs the, well, weight.

Schuberth’s E2 helmet is available in eight color/design options: solid gloss white, matte black or concrete gray @ $799, E2 Defender (graphic with red accents) @ $899 and E2 Explorer (graphic with blue, orange, anthracite and green accents) @ $899 in sizes XS/53 to XXXL/65. Find them online schuberth.com or at a dealer near you. ~ Shira Kamil ,

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Modern Classics

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

Columnist extraordinaire Mark Byers shared a website article with us one morning – it was from a site called Expedition Portal – the Overland people.

It was penned by a fellow named Joe Fleming and titled Top Ten Modern Classics: Motorcycle Buyer’s Guide.

The list had ten machines, available, more or less, today.

Any list like this will be very subjective, and all of these motorcycles would certainly get a smile on any rider’s face – but would we consider them “Classic?”

Really… what constitutes a “Classic?”

Thus began a back and forth with the extended Backroads Family on what current machines could or would be considered classic.

The Rules…

The motorcycles had to be, more or less, currently available, and could be machines that have been around in one form or another - yet not drifted far from the original offer.

Think the same, same, but different.

If not still on the showroom floor, they had to be an easily buyable motorcycle. The motorcycle would have to be one that you would think – “Well, you can’t go wrong with that.”

We put this question out onto the Backroads Social Media Pages – good for something, right?

Mark came right back with some machines, as did others, and the list was a long one – so, keeping with the original mission here, we whittled it down to a controllable gaggle and came up with our own Top Ten Modern Classics – Machines that were, and are, way cool in their own way!

Kawasaki KLR 650 First introduced back in 1987 the KLR 650 has been called the Swiss Army Knife of the adventure world. Not the most powerful, or the best handling, it none-the-less has gotten riders from Point A to Point Z and every letter in between.

This machine is solid, reliable, and in more garages than I could ever count; and is a true classic in every year it was built.

Harley-Davidson Road King For years now the Road King has offered a great mix of traditional styling with long-term touring talent.

It is a big machine that is just so easy to ride with lots of grunts and it’s low center of gravity makes it far more nimble than you would think; and is simply a superb American touring machine.

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

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BMW F650 Much like the KLR, the BMW F 650 GS, the original single-cylinder machine, has been everywhere on the planet. Small and light enough for shorter riders, the F 650 GS has enough grunt and chops to bring you where you gotta go every time.; and certainly answers in the affirmative of “Well, you can’t go wrong with that.”

And that is why it is a Modern Classic.

Ducati Monster We first saw this bike at the Guggenheim Art of the Motorcycle Show – Shira had one in just a few weeks and the Monster, in all its incarnations and fairly affordable price point, which surely help make Ducati the powerhouse that it is – just as well as all their MotoGP victories.

Triumph Tiger 800 Being a British machine it could be compared to Mary Poppins – practically perfect in every way.

When this machine was released nearly 15 years ago it dove headlight first into the affordable ADV travel market – and hit the mark from the first gravely hilly road. The Tiger had good looks, was reliable, and had an all-day comfort that quickly made it the choice of rides for many motorcyclists – especially those looking for something less porky and tall. Today the Triumph Tiger is a 900, and has become the choice of machines for many seasoned riders. It does everything well.

Kawasaki Concours The Concours is certainly a Modern Classic, although for this particular list, we’ll stay with the original model that had a two-decade run from 1996 to 2006 – when it was replaced with the Concours 14.

This truly was the “every man’s” sport-tourer.

With its grunty 997cc water-cooled engine, and shaft drive the Concours offered nimble handling all-day comfort, a huge 7.4 gallon fuel supply, gobs of protection, and monstrous saddlebags. It was, and still is, a superb two-up sport-touring machine. Few machines have such a cult following.

Suzuki V-Strom 650 / SV 650 Although thought by many to be very much alike, the Suzuki V-Strom and SV 650s differ as one is aimed at the adventure touring crowd and the other to the street.

The V-Strom hit the streets in 2004, building on the success of the SV 650 that had entered the market a few years earlier.

With either machine, you have a competent, superb

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

handling and, most of all, fun machine with which to play. The V-Strom makes an excellent ‘Travel Anywhere” machine and the SV is the perfect middle-weight Backroads Bomber. Great track bike too.

There are parts available worldwide and you could never go wrong with these Suzukis.

Honda Gold Wing 1800 This list would never be complete without a motorcycle that set and kept the standard for a class that, before it came along, nobody knew existed.

The Honda Gold Wing was first produced as a Muscle Bike, but with the aftermarkets help – well Craig Vetter’s - it became the ultimate touring machine. In 2001, when evolved into an 1800 six-cylinder machine, it redefined itself.

The best comment I can give was told to me by the Gold Wing’s designer at the Media Intro for the bike held in Ohio the previous year… “I was tasked with making the new Gold Wing. I am a race guy – so I made a big comfortable race bike with bags.” If your Point A is New York and your Point B is Los Angeles, there is no better machine in between.

BMW R1250 GS This is not a Nepotistic call here. The BMW R 1250 GS, as its other and previous incarnations, redefined motorcycle travel for uncounted riders.

The GS stands for Gelände Sport: off-road / road; and, in capable hands, it excels at both. I list this as the 1250 version, as the latest version of the Boxer engine was a big jump in many ways over the previous powerplant – but as you read this the new BMW R 1300 GS will be coming off the container ships from Germany. Time and progress roll on – but no matter how or which GS you look at or ride the machine is truly a Modern Classic.

The tenth spot I will leave up to you…

As any list like this one will certainly fall short, be nowhere near correct in some eyes, and pure feldercarb to others.

What did we miss? Well we’d like to know and we’d like you to email us at editor@backroadsusa.com and tell us what we missed, or what bikes should at least have ‘Honorable Mention.’ ,

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

PRODUCT REVIEW

Page 27

HEX GS-911 DIAGNOSTIC TOOL FROM TED PORTER’S BEEMER SHOP

If you have a modern motorcycle from BMW (or Husqvarna) and have ever had the semi-deflating experience of suddenly having a message come across the TFT screen that reminds you: Service Overdue – Have Service Performed at a Specialist Workshop - you might like to keep on reading and consider a minor investment in your machine – or workbench.

We are not here to say that you should not get service on your machine – whatever make or model it is. A well-serviced machine is a happy machine, and a happy machine is a safe machine.

Still, sometimes false error codes appear, or reminders of needed servicing to be done, and they might not be warranted.

No machine is perfect, and warning lights can suddenly appear and then disappear each time you start your bike.

With the Hex GS-911 Diagnostic Tool, you can hook directly into your BMW ECU and systems see exactly what is what; and then handle the issue in the best possible manner.

Maybe you will uncover a potential problem that must be handled by a BMW shop, but most times not – it’ll be something you can handle yourself.

Well, you and the GS-911.

The Hex GS-911 Diagnostic Tool, which got its name as it was designed originally with GS Adventure riders in mind, is an easy-to-use device that hooks into your BMW by way of the standard OBD plug, and for me my iPad. Although originally designed for PC, with the Cloud App it is very Mac-friendly.

With it successfully talking

to your BMW it can access and control just about everything the ECU of your bike does all the time.

In addition to reading and the ability to “clear” fault codes and reset reminders, it can display control unit information, perform adaptive resets, and relearn. It will even show unknown Fault Codes, where the bike resets itself – like over-loading a power plug and the like.

If your machine is running on the hot side, you can check your fan, along with just about everything else. The horn, lights, tire pressure, brakes, and ABS – the list of tasks that the Hex GS-911 can tackle is almost voluminous.

As new technology and programs become available from BMW, the GS-911 will allow you to upgrade your machine.

More control of the heated grips, or monitoring and adjusting other items on your ECU’s laundry list will be at your fingertips.

When purchasing a GS-911 there will be two licenses from which to choose: The basic “Enthusiast” license will let you use the tool on up to 10 motorcycles, while the “Professional” license gives you unlimited access to use it on as many bikes as you choose, along with some additional perks.

The Hex GS-911 comes with a durable and very packable case so you have no excuse not to have this along for any real ride.

If you own a BMW motorcycle or motorcycles, then you really should consider adding a Hex GS-911 to your toolbox. $399 from beemershop.com. ,

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BOOK REVIEW

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

SUPERBIKE: AN ILLUSTRATED EARLY HISTORY BY KEVIN CAMERON & JOHN OWENS

It was the late 70s or early 80s; I should be able to tell you exactly what year, but, there was no Backroads to double-check my dates, and our early 20s are a tad cloudy for many of us.

I was along the pit lane during the weekend of the Daytona 200, doing my best to both lend a hand and stay out of the way, with my friend Nick Richichi, who was racing as an independent and the rest of his crew. Nicky would go on to be AMA’s Rookie of the Year.

Although I was able to be a tiny little part of America’s great road race that year, I was really there to take pictures, and this is how I met author and world-renowned motorcycle journalist Kevin Cameron.

While we were practicing Nicky’s pit stop and refueling, I put my camera bag down… on a nearby toolbox. Close enough to be near, but out of the way. I might have made a slight error on my choice…

What actually occurred and what I remember might be skewed a bit – But I remember a large guy being more than a bit upset that somebody’s cameras were atop his tool chest – the one he needed to access “Right Now.” There were a bunch of colorful metaphors… and I gave the guy a ‘whatever’ look and removed the cameras, tucking them safely away elsewhere.

I asked Nicky, “ Who the hell was that…?”

He replied, “That’s Kevin Cameron.”

Oh… Okay. I really didn’t know of Kevin then – but I certainly do now and have been a big fan of his writing and take on the twowheel world for decades now.

Superbike racing is a global business built on decades of dedicated partnerships among manufacturers, promoters, and teams resulting in successful domestic and international

championships. In the mid-1970s, however, this popular category of production-based four-stroke competition was in its infancy.

In Superbike: An Illustrated Early History, Kevin Cameron and acclaimed photographer John Owens chronicle the transition from the twin-cylinder BMWs, Ducatis and Moto Guzzis set against wobbling and weaving first-generation Japanese fours to a second wave of more race-worthy machines that ultimately led to the sportbike revolution.

Owens shot the black-and-white photographs published in this beautifully designed and produced 192-page hardcover book at five of the tracks that dotted the U.S. motorcycle road-racing landscape at the time: Daytona International Speedway, Bryar Motorsports Park, Laguna Seca Raceway, Pocono International Raceway, and Road America.

Eddie Lawson, Wayne Rainey, and Freddie Spencer—three Americans who went on to win a combined 10 250cc and 500cc Grand Prix world titles—figured prominently in the “sit-up” era of AMA Superbike.

This book, which should be on every superbike fan’s coffee table, grew in part from a black-and-white photo essay published 35 years ago in Cycle magazine. The Look of Speed featured Owens’ thought-provoking im-

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

ages of Yoshimura Research and Development of America founder Hideo “Pops” Yoshimura, and former magazine editor and 1977 Daytona Superbike race-winner Cook Neilson, among other tuners and riders. The photos published in this book were taken at tracks that populated the American road-racing scene at that time: Daytona International Speedway, Bryar Motorsports Park, Laguna Seca Raceway, Pocono International Raceway, and Road America.

Between Cameron’s insightful words and Owens’ stunningly clear and superb photography, this book brings an incredible number of years back. If these racers and machines are new to you, or they stir up memories from your own past – welcome to Superbike.

This book, which is easily paged through and digested, showcases and highlights a time when racing was evolving and progressing – but still in reach of mortal men.

Back then these racers breathed the same air as us – unlike the rarified atmosphere that seems to pervade some high-end racing these days.

Superbike: An Illustrated Early History is a wonderful read, and we bet would look just as good on your workbench, as well as a shelf in your home.

You can find it at superbikebook.com for $75. ,

Page 29

Page 30

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

NEW FROM MICHELIN

Michelin unveiled three new motorcycle products at the 2023 EICMA trade. With 130 years of history in developing 2-wheel tires – the first Michelin tire ever made was designed for a bike – and more than 500 wins in the FIM World Championships, Michelin benefits from a vast and unique know-how. Whether it’s slick tires, radial tires, or asymmetrical tires, during the past 50 years, Michelin has always been the driving force behind innovation.

In recent years, the Michelin Power and Michelin Anakee ranges have been homologated by premium manufacturers such as BMW Motorrad, Triumph, KTM and Honda along with many others.

Michelin pOweR gp 2

The MasTer Of raceTracks is hOMOlOgaTed fOr The rOad Destined for the track, homologated for the road, aimed at owners of super sports bikes, this evolution of the Michelin Power GP tire enters a new dimension. The new tire delivers an even higher level of grip on wet or dry surfaces than its predecessor2, which was already a leading tire in this category.

Thanks to its level of riding precision, it amplifies the track experience allowing the most experienced riders to push their limits on the track. Using the same development tools as those used for MotoGP™ tires, the new Michelin Power GP 2 benefits from the experience gained by Michelin as it earned 500 victories in the FIM World Championship.

Michelin pOweR 6

The everyday Tire cOMbining fun and spOrTiness The new Michelin Power 6 tire is aimed at a wide range of sports motorcycle users looking for sportiness and pure riding pleasure. This new tire will be the reference for future Michelin launches in the sport segment.

Beyond sport performance, this tire keeps an eye on mileage for the daily rider or those who travel long

distances. The grip in dry and wet conditions as well as its handling and sportiness make this tire a suitable answer to the demands of sport bike riders. Available in a wide range of sizes, this tire is suitable for motorcycles over 300cc, and has already been homologated on the new 2024 KTM 390 Duke.

BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

Page 31

Michelin anakee ROad

The Michelin rOad perfOrMance, wiTh a specific advenTure lOOk Complementing the Anakee range – which boasts other patterns for more aggressive off-road usage, Anakee Wild and Anakee Adventure – this new tire is designed for adventure touring motorcycles used for long road trips as well as for everyday travel. As these bikes are versatile, their range of use is just as wide.

With the new Michelin Anakee Road tire, Michelin has designed a tire aimed at motorcyclists who prefer pavement. This new tire provides high levels of grip in dry and wet conditions, a long service life and stability. The design of the tire has been created to be in harmony with the style of these bikes, which have become lighter over the generations but are still an imposing size and weight.

The new Michelin tires will be available to retailers through North American authorized distributors in the beginning of 2024. , indusTRy inFOBiTes

Continued from Page 7

Following the recent announcement of a new project for a range of offroad models that will see the light in the near future, and which will use national motorcross competitions as early as 2024 as an intergral part of its product development plan with a 450 prototype entrusted to Alessandro Lupino, with the collaboration of Antonio Cairoli as high performance test rider, Ducati has decided to create the the Off-Road Division of Ducati Corse. The new division will deal with the organization and management of the sporting program, which includes participation in the MXGP World Championship and the AMA Supercross Chamionship in the next few years.

A MESSAGE FROM THE NYC RIDERS AGAINST CONGESTION As required by law, there will be a final public comment period on the proposed congestion pricing tolls which have been reviewed and accepted by the MTA. This is the final step before implementation sometime in 2024.

NJ politicians have been putting up a ferocious fight, Mayor Adams has expressed his doubts, and former Governor Cuomo has recently spoken out against implementation of the same congestion pricing scheme he advocated for so strongly back in 2019. Their newfound opposition seems unlikely to change the final outcome. Congestion pricing will be coming to NYC. While our hard fought 50% discount for motorcycles is significant, we continue to advocate for a 100% exemption for our fuel efficient, congestion reducing vehicles. All European municipalities where congestion pricing has been implemented, especially and including London, the model city for congestion pricing, fully exempt two-wheeled vehicles from all congestion-based tolling. NYC should do the same.

The final public comment period lasts until March 11th. You can send your written comments to cbdtp.feedback@mtabt.org Information for all forms of public comment is available on the MTA website new.mta.info/project/CBDTP

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BACKROADS • FEBRUARY 2024

The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

i saw The lighT That’s what was coming through my headsets… a favorite Todd Rundgren song from back in the day.

As I rounded the tight turn I knew there was another vehicle heading my way.

It was late last night I was feeling something wasn’t right There was not another soul in sight…

Then there was. One of those drivers that think if a few lights are good and a loaded lightbar at 110% should be awesome. Maybe. In the desert, but not on rural or suburban roads. The pick-up rounded the turn, and the lights that he thought would give him vision took mine away.

“Ugh. Turn the brights off, buddy!” I flashed my high beam, illuminating my own Denali LEDs. The power of the sun.

His reaction was to ride past me, his horn blaring and telling me I was number 1. How excellent; but you started it.

I like light. The more the better. But as Uncle Ben said… ‘With great power comes great responsibility’.

It’s not the lights that are the problem, but that disregard for oncoming riders and drivers that gets me, and it is not just the occasional rural pick-up truck that sports all this illumination, but plenty of motorcycles too. Especially the ADV riders who think they need to illuminate the Kalahari – even though they are riding to Rutt’s Hut on Route 3.

I have three sets of lights on my GS and my Z900. The stock lamps, and two small yellow beams on the bottom. These are here for conspicuity – to be seen and a triangle with yellow lights seems to grab the attention more often than not.

The big lights are tied into my high beams. If I need my high beams then I probably need the D4 Denali Light Pods. But they are instantaneously controlled by a flick of a switch. I can ride with the Sol, and be courteous too.

But, why do we seem to need all this light – especially as we get older?

It is an age thing… as we get older our pupils become smaller – on average a 60+ year old human sees just 1/3 the light they did when a teenager. We don’t notice it as this loss is slow and gradual.

We see with two types of photoreceptors in our eyes – Rods and Cones. In the bright daytime, our cones – that allow us to see color – do all the work. But, as dusk approaches, our brain shifts and begins to use both rods and cones. Then, in the dark, we are using our rods entirely.

This is why everything is near black & white at night, and much more colorful during the day.

The passage of time weakens the tiny muscles that

control your eye’s pupil size. The pupil becomes smaller and less responsive to changes in light. That’s why people in their 60s need 3 times more light for comfortable reading than those in their 20s. Smaller pupils make it more difficult to see at night. Baggy or droopy eyelids, which may occur after age 40, cut down on available light as well.

From wrinkled skin around your eyes to age-related eye conditions like macular degeneration and presbyopia, there are many ways your eyes may be affected as you age. Fortunately, some of these conditions can be reversed or even prevented by following a solid treatment plan from your eye doctor.

But there are some things we can do to help by ourselves; and proper nutrition and vitamins – especially A can make a difference.

Vitamin A plays a key role in many systems of your body. Vitamin A is essential for healthy vision, metabolism, and cell development. Your body can’t make vitamin A on its own, so you must get it through the foods you eat.

Vitamin A is vital for your vision. Your eyes need to make specific pigments for your retinas to work correctly. A lack of vitamin A hinders your eyes’ ability to make these pigments, which can lead to night blindness. This vitamin is also a component of rhodopsin, a protein of which our rods are made, and that allows you to see in low-light conditions.

In other words, you need vitamin A to be able to see at night.

Your eyes also need vitamin A to produce moisture to keep your corneas properly lubricated. If your corneas get too dry, they can become damaged, which can lead to blindness.

So, to that weekly pill holder you have but will not admit to, add one more pill, we hope it will help you see the light. ,