January 2011 by Backroads Magazine

Best

The

ture n e v d l&A e v a r T cles, y c r o t Mo

2010

2011 Y R A U JAN

W H A T ’ S

I N S I D E FEAT URES

MON T HLY COLUM N S FREE WHEELIN’.................................................................................4

BEST OF BACKROADS 2010 .......................................................22

WHATCHATHINKIN’..........................................................................6

COLORS IN THE CATSKILLS........................................................26

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE .................................................7

2010 CANNONBALL RUN ............................................................31

ON THE MARK ..................................................................................8

LARZ ANDERSON EUROPEAN MOTORCYCLE DAYS...........39

BACKLASH .........................................................................................9

A TALE OF TWO RALLIES............................................................50

THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD ....................................................11 INDUSTRY INFOBITES...................................................................12

M OTORCYCL E REVIEWS KAWASAKI NINJA 1000..............................................................33

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA ...............................................................14 BIG CITY GETAWAY........................................................................16

PRODUCT REVIEW S

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN.........................................18

TRIUMPH A2 WATERPROOF BOOTS........................................15

WE’RE OUTTA HERE .....................................................................20

RAWHYDE/MANTRA WINES .....................................................33

UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR...............................................37

SARGENT CYCLE SADDLE FOR BMW F 650 GS..................36

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE .......................................................43

HYPERPRO SHOCKS .....................................................................40

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE ..................................................44

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS................................................................42

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil ~ Publishers Contributors: Mark Byers, Jay Duchin, Ken Freund, Jamie Hansen, Bill Heald, Dr. Seymour O’Life

BACKROADS • POB 317, Branchville NJ 07826 Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

Phone 973.948.4176 • Fax 973.948.0823 • email editor@backroadsusa.com • web www.backroadsusa.com

For Advertising Sales Information: 973-948-4176 BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2011. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

G WINNY O T A F E O

A SE FRE PURCH

R E T AL C N E I I P S W I CE ERV

W IT H S

HARLEY-DAVIDSON® OF LONG BRANCH 671 Broadway • Long Branch, NJ 07740

732-229-8518 • www.HDLongBranch.com

JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN

Noise… it’s Not what you thiNk! Backroads Central sits back from the county road we live on in northwest New Jersey. Most traffic goes by with hardly a notice, but… A few of these guys go by every day - one particular guy early each morning – EARLY! I can hear him coming for miles before he roars past our place. Big engine pumping. Dual exhaust, that I imagine must be around the same diameter as the Lincoln Tunnel, letting loose a cacophony of noise that seems to shake the foundations of our building. As Jimmy Buffet once sang, “I hate those bastards so much!” All through the day, when we’re home, I can hear them ride by. Now I know you’re thinking… there he goes again talking about loud motorcycles and obnoxious riders. Ha! This time you’re wrong. There is plenty of time, issues and paper left to bust on those riders. Today I am talking about something much bigger… about a ton bigger. I am talking about those insufferable children in ridiculously loud pick-up trucks! I did one of our purely scientific surveys the other afternoon. We had just returned from searching out yet another fantabulous Great All American Diner Run and, with the motorcycles slowly doing that cooling/ticking thing in the barn, we opened up a bottle of South African red and sat on the deck which has a grand view of the county road we call home. Now we live on a very motorcycle friendly road and a great number of bikes rode by, some a little louder than others, but none so bad that we had to cringe. But then it happened. A large Ford F150 came rippin’ up the road. It was like a Space Shuttle launch! Shira and I both hunched down and said, “What the f*#k?”

A short time later some nimrod in a Chevy Silverado came by too. We heard him coming for a while so we had time to tie down the bone china and get a strong grip on the crystal wine glasses. I have noticed that the bigger the Rebel Flag or Harley sticker in the window the louder the pick-up truck will be. This isn’t to say that any of these yahoos are from south of the MasonDixon Line or that they even own a motorcycle, much less a Harley; in fact I don’t think many of them do; these stickers are just a desperate attempt to stand out. They might like to actually ride a Harley or sound like Greg Allman; but it’ll probably never happen. Like a petulant middle child that craves attention and acts out to get it, these savants feel the need to be so loud and annoying that they actually put the loudest straight pipe motorcycle to shame. Personally, I know I have had enough of this auditory abuse. It might be time for “time-out” for these guys. Maybe have them and their trucks stand in the corner for an hour or so – every day! In fact, some of these pick-up trucks are so loud and so numerous here in Sussex County especially, that a gaggle of loud bikes might almost be refreshing at this point. Did I just write that? Wow… you can see just how deafening these trucks can be. I tried to avoid this cruelty by listening to my iPod around the house, but when Jeff Bodine comes blastin’ up the hill the grounds reverberate and the Richter Scales at Lamont-Doherty go wild with glee. Jeez Louise! Hey, if you are one of these people who have to have the loudest truck on the planet, well I’m talking to you. If your bike is just as loud well now I am really talking to you. What is your problem? Keep it down. Loud Pipes Don’t Save Lives – they just piss regular folks off. Loud trucks make it worse, as many times Joe Public thinks its just another annoying bike riding by. Great. See, here we riders lose twice; and this is a fight we can’t afford to lose. Yep noise… sometimes it’s not what you think!

See us a I MS in t the N Jan. 20 YC -23

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JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

W H ATC H AT H I N K I N ’ SHIRA KAMIL

ReasoN to be happy With everyone hopping on the holiday bandwagon, I thought I’d take a step back from the hustle of filling shopping lists and prepping for the cold weather and reflect. Sure, this is the time of year to do that. We’ve gone through another full trip around the sun and I’m sure there’s lots we’ve all been through. I hope that most of it was good for everyone and, for those events which have taken our breath or hearts away, I wish you happier times. I’ve always tried to subscribe to the optimistic side of life and, with that in mind, here’s my reasons to be happy, in no particular order. All of you out there: If it weren’t for all you folks reading these pages, life as I know it would be drastically different. Because you all have enjoyed these pages for the past 15 years, Brian and I have been fortunate to have met a bunch of you and traveled to some pretty incredible places. Many of you have become close friends. In fact, the reason we started our Backroads Rallies was a selfish one; to be able to spend more time with those of you who share your vacation time with us. We hope that you will keep us in your riding lives and look forward to meeting more and more of you. The changing of the season: You’re probably saying ‘What’s she bonkers?’ Yeah, I know that we’re heading into the dark days of motorcycling, with those of us ‘fairer weather’ riders catching very occasional saddle time. It’s not my idea of fun to have to bundle up like the Michelin Man just to say I’ve ridden my bike all twelve months of the year. Yes, heated gear certainly alleviates some of the bulkage, but then you’re dealing with the tethered effect. I know that I’ve walked away from my bike only to be yanked back because I’ve forgotten to unplug.

But, without the changing of the seasons, we wouldn’t be ever hopeful for the coming of Spring, the certain warmth of Summer and the beauty of the fireworks of Autumn. So, Winter do your worst (well, not really, it’s just an expression) because I know that come March the tides will change. The New Year: This is going to be a good one, I can feel it. Most of the motorcycle manufacturers are presenting us with some fine options. It seems like the past few years have been just a bit ho-hum regarding new designs and innovative rides. There’s the much anticipated Yamaha Super Tenere and Triumph Tiger 800, bringing yet more options to all those adventure-riders out there. Ducati has been busy, unveiling its all-new Diavel, which you can read about in Bill Heald’s column. BMW, not to rest on their laurels, is bring the F 800 R to our shores – you can also read a short impression on this in these pages – and the largerthan-life K 1600 GT and GTL. We certainly look forward to some seat time on those bad boys. Back on the Japanese front, Kawasaki has some super power players entering the field with the ZX-10R and Ninja 1000, as well as their new top-of-the-line bagger, the Vulcan 1700 Vaquero. Honda is catering to the other end of the spectrum with their CBR250R. Need to get from here to way over there without stopping? Take a look at the 2012 Moto Guzzi Stelvio NTX with its 8.5gallon fuel tank. This just scratches the surface and I’m sure that if you are in the market for a new ride, there’s something out there for you. I would be remiss if I didn’t mention my family, friends and, of course, my best buddy (no, not you Notso, although you are ranked pretty high up there) Brian as those who bring joy to my life and without whom life would be very difficult indeed. Here’s to a happy, healthy, prosperous and joyous New Year. May it bring you that which you desire, warm days, sultry nights and plenty of saddle time. We’ll see you on the road.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011

P O S TC A R D S FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD

what FResh hell is this? As we roll into a new century. . . no wait. Holy crap, that was a decade ago. Where the hell did the time go? Anyway, as we go rolling into the Two-Oh-Double-Uno, there is reason for optimism. I know, I have no clue as to your personal situation and I hope things are looking positive on that front for the New Year. The optimism I’m talking about is what is rolling down the road from the motorcycle manufacturers, as they continue to surprise us with new, unexpected offerings. This says great things about their belief on where things are heading, which is good for us all. And then there’s Ducati. They apparently have decided, in direct defiance of placing a hockey rink in Hades, to do something not just unexpected, but radically bold and downright bizarre. While they have introduced a couple of very Ducati-like new bikes (and also announced a product marketing alliance with Mercedes-Benz’s high-performance AMG concern), they have also created a truly wicked-wild cruiser called the Diavel. This is not a typo, nor am I having a bit of April Fool’s fun way too early. The Ducati Overlords have taken a version of their monstrously powerful Testastretta Superbike V-Twin and placed it in a long, low cruiser chassis, and packed the beast with some serious Ducatistyle performance chops and a massive 240-series rear tire. This is really raising the performance bar in the genre, or, in the words of the great Chef Emeril Lagasse, “The sheer width of rubber communicates so much power

7 and style that the R&D team vowed to find a way to make it handle - even if they knew the image would send a seismic shock through the industry.” Wait: I am in error. That wasn’t Emeril; that was a quote from a Ducati press release. How did that get in here, anyway? While I’m quoting press releases, though, according to these materials the name Diavel comes from the rather unsurprising reaction of a Ducati insider: “One day, early in the development process of the bike, the first prototype was assembled and wheeled out in front of a group of Ducati engineers and technicians who were viewing the complete motorcycle for the first time. One person looking from the rear of the bike saw its silhouette and exclaimed in Bolognese dialect: “Ignurànt comm’ al diavel!” Which means: ‘Evil, just like the devil!’” Wow. I like their candor. I mean, it’s a pretty startling side-trip from Ducati’s typical street offerings, and yet the closer you look at the Diavel, with it’s surprisingly good cornering clearance, comparatively light weight (especially the more expensive Carbon model), cool side-mounted radiators and standard ABS, Traction Control and multi-mode engine tuning, you see something arguably appropriate for inclusion in this company’s lineup. But, maybe I’ve just become used to such wild additions to a seemingly predictable manufacturer’s offerings. A couple of years ago, Honda had some fun with such perceptions when they introduced the Fury to an unsuspecting public. This is a full-on factory chopper, and when it was first released I was quite skeptical. Low and behold, when I spent some quality time on one down in Florida in ’09, I was very pleasantly surprised. It was beautifully built (no surprise there), but what really amazed me was how much I enjoyed riding it. I even found the really laid-back riding ergos to be quite acceptable, and its plucky V-Twin and surprisingly nimble steering made for a very pleasant ride. Who knew? (Continued on Page 10)

My ambition? To go nowhere fast.

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215-712-7433 • www.montgomeryvillecc.com Always ride safely and wear proper protective gear. *Price shown is MSRP. Price subject to change. MSRP includes destination and handling charges but excludes license, registration, taxes, title, insurance and options. Actual price is determined by retailer. © 2009 BMW Motorrad USA, a division of BMW of North America, LLC. The BMW name and logo are registered trademarks.

JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

ON THE MARK MARK BYERS

size Does it matter? Y’know…size. Does it really matter how big yours is? C’mon, you know what I’m talking about. Oh sure, it’s a “family magazine” but we’re mostly adults here, aren’t we (at least by age, if not maturity level). You can be honest: how big is yours? Do you have an enormous…motorcycle? I was reading about BMW’s latest offering, a 1600cc machine, and realized that in the displacement wars, it’s not even near the top. In motorcycles, Triumph’s 2300cc Rocket III Touring comes trippingly to mind, as it’s the largest machine I’ve ever had the good fortune to ride. Think it over: the Rocket Trey is almost five Fiat 500’s of displacement on two wheels. With a solo rider in place, it’s also about a half ton of man and machine, but it still handles well. If you really want to go over the top, there’s the Boss Hoss, with a V-8 engine, displacing up to 355 cubic inches (that’s 5,800cc on my 37-button engineering calculator). That’s more than the displacement of all 7 motorcycles in my possession, all strapped onto one two-wheeled chassis! With gas and other vital fluids, it’s pushing 1,400 lb without a rider, so it can use the ponies put out by the big mill. We Americans seem to love them big, bad, and heavy. It goes with our culture: big voices, big belt buckles, big wallets, big watches, Big Sky, Big Mac, and Big Lots. Supersize me, mamma, I’m going for a ride. But is all that displacement really necessary, or do we just have a nationwide overcompensation problem? We’re actually in the motorcycling minority when it comes to the rest of the world, where instead of being large, expensive luxury rides, motorcycles and scooters are the small, proletarian transport of choice. Take a look at any photo of a European or Asian city and you’ll see streets and sidewalks strewn

with throngs of small-displacement machines. They park in very little space, have ridiculously high miles per gallon ratings, and are cheap to buy and service. Size sure doesn’t seem to imply carrying capacity: I think we’ve all seen the photos of some five-member, third-world family under way on a Chinese-made scooter that must displace all of 50cc or so. How about the one of the guy with about 200 plastic milk jugs in a net sack precariously attached to the rear seat of a two-stroke step-through? I think it’s a pain to carry my laden laptop case over my shoulder on the dual-sport and these folks are making like ants carrying a big buttered roll away from a picnic. In Spain, I even saw a dog sitting between a guy’s feet on a scooter. Me? I’m a middleweight maven for the most part, with a couple 650’s and a 400 in the stable, but I get a lot of gas from the 200 and the 125 as well. Off-road, the smaller machines are much handier and confidence-inspiring to me. I know if the 400 had high-sided me into the bottom of the same ditch into which I was tossed by the 200, I might still be trying to right that thing. On the road, the liter-plus bikes are the choice for the really long hauls, but for pure fun it’s hard to beat the 650’s and I’ve done some pretty nice long stretches on the SV. Little bikes seem to have some advantages over big ones, like high fuel economy, low insurance rates, and low ownership costs; however, I find myself shying away from anything under about 400cc when I hit the local multilanes with speed limits of 55+ (which means about 80+ in the Metro DC area). For the really crazy roads, I’d like to have a minimum of about 650cc of comfort power on a lightweight, maneuverable machine. I’d love to have a scooter, but we’re just not urban (or urbane) enough here. Maybe that’s the answer to our love affair with big machines: we NEED them for our own protection against the forces represented in the car commercials by the “Zoom Zoom” guys or the number-and-letter-laden sedan folks. I still wouldn’t want to take on a Hummer, however, even with a Boss Hoss. I’d just make a slightly bigger dent and it, in the words of Churchill, would “just make the rubble bounce.” Our love of the large is probably just a defense mechanism. Then again, it could also be that overcompensation thing. Vive la difference.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011

BACKLASH We thought we’d use Backlash for something a bit different in this Best of Backroads issue. Speaking to the “People of the Page” we asked their thoughts on their “Best Roads” to ride. Here’s some of what we got: Rt. 6 across the Northern Tier of PA Alan Kovitz Georgia 60 from Dahlonega to Morganton GT Turner Route 16 but that’s a secret David Nunnikhoven Virginia/West Virgina Rainy ride in VT! Shawn Nordlund The road leading from house. It opens up endless possibilities. Tony Lisanti I’d tell you, but then I’d have to kill you. Just keep sending all the Lemmings down to the Dragon and leave me in peace and quiet. Roadtrash Byrd Essex County NY County Road 4 and 6 in North Hudson, NY. Not quite the Dragon but only 15 minutes from home! Andrew DeLivron The Blue Ridge Parkway. 469 miles of twisties with no traffic lights and if you ride it during the week there is hardly any traffic. My favorite time of day on the BRP is late afternoon when the Park Rangers are calling it a day and there is little worry about the 45 MPH speed limit being enforced. Michael Aldea

Letters to the Editor Tie - Old Dixie Hwy in Tamoka State Pk, FL l to A1A or Rte. 328 in southern Ohio - (or really any of the roads around Wayne National Forest in Ohio) Wow, that’s tough! Kim Leathem Pickett Rte. 28/30 from Speculator, NY to Lake Placid, NY...the lake region is beautiful! Pacific Coast Hwy from Malibu, CA to San Francisco, CA doesn’t suck. Oh, and the Blue Ridge Parkway...all of it. Vincent Lucanera Route 2 up here in northern New England. From Houlton, Maine thru the White and Green Mountains of New Hampshire and Vermont then up the Champlain Islands. A grand over view of the Great North Woods. Michael Farrell Totally unfair! It’s like trying to determine your favorite food dish. In Italy I’d choose Via 4 November along the west shore of Lago de Garda. In Vermont, Route 110. In the Piedmont, Route 362/The River Route in Quebec. The “Kanc” (Route 112) in New Hampshire. GR-3204 in the Sierra Nevada Mountains south of Granada in Spain is towards the top of my list. However, how can one compare against the other? Some of my favorites I certainly won’t ride on a regular basis because I’d die if not perfectly in the zone; others are less intense and make everything right with the world when riding them. I just can’t compare one to another. Sorry! Ken Aiken So long as I’m comfortable with the wind in my face, my favorite road is the one I’m currently riding. Living on Long Island I get lots of flat straight stuff which, while often tedious, can be quite enjoyable and therapeutic. I love riding ...in the south: GT’s selection of Route 60 is always a great stretch of tarmac, but so is 180 and plenty of other roads down there. Michael’s BRP (Continued on Page 10)

JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

10 pick is another fabulous road for multiple reasons: beautiful scenic vistas, well maintained pavement, great sweeping curves, and very sociable park police who regularly stop me to say hello. However I do disagree with his late afternoon wicking it up - too many deer on the road! Certainly Deals Gap US 129, the Snake US 421, and a multitude of other roads crisscrossing the mountainous intersection of VA, TN, and NC are fabulous for riding. Rt. 16 running from VA to WVA is always a great road when heading north, as are hundreds of smaller roads of lesser renown. Plenty of nice roads in NY, NJ, VT and probably every other state in the union - although I still haven’t found a good ride yet in Florida!! In the Alps the Furka to Brig passes are fabulous, as are loads of other roads. Take away the traffic, give me some open road - preferably with contours which allow me to get the bike sideways, and I am one happy camper! Jon Bressner

Nitpickin’ from the West Coast I appreciated Brian’s Free Wheelin’ editorial (November) on states, counties and towns trying to balance budgets by having the police write more tickets, hanging more paper on the motorists and motorcyclists. But he does make it sound as though the California muffler bill is taking place immediately. No, it won’t take effect until 2013, as the “Industry Infobites” section on page 13 points out, giving the OEMs and aftermarket exhaust manufacturers two years to figure out where to put the numbers. And the law will only affect bikes made after 01/01/13, so the owners of GL1500s don’t have to worry about it. Shira’s column on what every motorcyclist should carry suffers a redundancy when she talks about replacing CO2 cartridges as well as carrying a CyclePump tire inflator that runs off the bike’s battery; one or the other will do, and I recommend the CyclePump. Now I must rush off and find a wild turkey to run over. And then do my on-line traffic school Imperial entanglements. Clement Salvadori

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postcaRds FRom the hedge

(Continued from Page 7)

Now, we have this satanic new Diavel that Ducati has imbued with a lot of the typical qualities the marque is famous for, and, despite the radical architecture, styling that (especially the beautifully-sculpted single-sided swingarm) does indeed say this is a Duck. Impressive, really. They claim that this will set new handling standards for the class, although they really never say what class that is and they certainly never call it a cruiser. The question is, will other manufacturers follow suit? I’d like to see BMW come back with a cruiser, since they discontinued the R1200C years ago. Incidentally, I still think this bike didn’t do better in sales because they didn’t name it the Edelweiss (as per my suggestion). Maybe, if they go more hardcore with a new design, they will give it a nice, sinister moniker like the Morbach, which is the name of a US ammo depot in Germany where a werewolf supposedly resides. And Triumph? They’re almost there with the Rocket III but they need to kick it up a notch (ah-there’s Emeril) and design a really wild muscle-cruise-chopper and call it. . . wait for it. . . the Voldemort. Cool. eh? You could also refer to it as The Bike That Must Not Be Named, if you’re squeamish.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011

THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD

Brady Steffl

When I was young, every time I wanted to go anywhere I had to beg for a ride. Slowly, I earned my freedom. It came in the way of a budget bicycle. Marty would drop by and I would yell to anyone in earshot that we were off to the park, then run out the door before being told to make my bed. Our favorite parks were oddly all at the bottoms of hills, and we’d race down redfaced, legs pumping and out of breath. The wind would blow back our hair and we’d catch bugs in our grins. Sometimes in our throats. Freedom. We would scream motor noises and think ourselves to be the very champions of speed. It only cost us tired legs, sore throats, and butts bruised on BMX seats. Kid stuff. As for the park? That was a navigation point, a place to catch our breath and sip a soda before killing ourselves to get back up the hill. Who goes to a park to play when you’re old enough to bike that far from home? Really. Eventually, we both got cars. This time, true freedom. We traded the bugs in our teeth for radios, top speed, and a place to keep girls. (When we could get them) There was something exciting about being behind the wheel of the hulking mass of a 1979 Pontiac Grand Prix. It’s massive 5.0L engine was only slowed by it’s anchor of a frame and chassis. It sure felt fast... 0 to 60 in roughly 12 or 20 seconds. But, after the automotive honeymoon was over, that car and all others became just another responsibility, an expense. Insurance, taxes and horrid fuel economy. Just a car, it takes you from A to B, dry, comfortably and most of the time safely, except when

brake components burst like zits due to rot and lack of care. I’m probably on file with the EPA. It took me everywhere, work, school, to see girls, but, it had become just a car, just another part of life. It seemed that kind of tangible, easy freedom was over. It took me until well after I took the training wheels off my first motorcycle (The two wheel equivalent of late model Grand Prix, an ‘85 Honda Nighthawk 450) to realize all of the things I traded away with my Huffy BMX. Last summer, in the Blue Ridge Mountains, I caught a monarch butterfly with my eye. I delivered a few firm words to the insect, who was still tasting my face inside my helmet, and then I laughed my head off. Marty, if you could only see me now... Saving my voice, I took the motor up near red line and breezed down the mountain. I am the champion of speed. Finally. I am free. (mostly.) Now, I’ve started to (motor)bike to the park again, and I’m old enough to know that once I get there, I don’t need to be doing anything. Not that I would anyway. The destination is the excuse, the ride is the reason. So, I take my wife and we bring more than a can of soda for lunch, and we take our time. The vessel is different, but the idea is the same, avoid main roads, find small, twisty routes, and go the longest way to the destination, if you even bother to invent one. Don’t go home, because the bed still needs to be made. I’ve traded back the radio, windshield, and roof, the protection, comfort and safety, (though I kept space to

keep a girl...) and I’ve gotten back a machine that takes my whole body to handle, a full-on visceral experience. I’ve traded back because now everything is amplified and simplified again, the wind, rain, cold are intense... and the perfect summer days are expanded to hyperbole. Proof that June hates cars, but she loves motorbikes. It’s obviously not exactly the same as a bicycle, of course, and some things have changed. The whole ride is downhill now, thanks to twisty grips, and my throat doesn’t hurt from yelling anymore. You also get to go so much faster. But, some things will never change, the seat still hurts my duff, and just once in a while I quietly put my boots on, then yell through the house that I’m off to the park, giddy as I slam the door and anxiously hope my 32-year-old Honda can get me out of earshot before I’m told to come back and make the bed.

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JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

INDUS TRY INFOBITES RIDING ROUND’ AFRICA As a fundraiser for the Children’s Wish Foundation, Honda Dakar Rally Team member Patrick Trahan will attempt a record-setting circumnavigation of Africa in early 2011. He will endeavor to travel 25,000 km (about 15,500 miles) through 26 countries in just 60 days. The existing record is 286 days. This is a grueling goal on a continent with few linked roads. Many of the extreme, remote areas he’s passing through have no roads at all. Patrick’s fundraising goal is to raise $25,000 for the Children’s Wish Foundation. You can contribute by visiting him at the Honda Canada booth in the Canadian MMIC motorcycle shows this winter, or by visiting his website at http://rideafrica4wishes.com/. Donations are $1 per kilometer of his 25,000 km journey. Patrick Trahan has called upon Twisted Throttle the premiere adventure touring outfitter based in Rhode Island, to prepare his Honda XR650L for extreme long-distance desert travel. Custom bike modifications by Twisted Throttle will include a reinforced rear subframe, Trax hard luggage system, LED headlights, auxiliary fuel tanks, a solar-powered charging array for navigation, film, and communications equipment, and more. Stay current with the custom bike build and Patrick’s progress by visiting the Twisted Garage video blog at http://twistedthrottle.com.

TEAM NO LIMIT TO PERFORM AT THIS YEAR’S IMS The Progressive International Motorcycle Shows is proud to announce Television Star and Stunt Riding Icon Jason Britton and Team No Limit will perform their thrilling stunt shows at all 12-city stops of the nationwide tour.

News from the Inside Show attendees from Dallas to Daytona will have the chance to see Speed Channel’s hit show “Superbikes” Star Britton and his Co-star Eric Hoenshell, perform heart-pounding stunts including wheelies, on-bike acrobatics, stoppies, burnouts, endos and more at each show. “Eric and I are very excited to be a part of the entire 2010-2011 Progressive International Motorcycle Show tour,” said Britton. “We look forward to meeting and performing for our fans and fellow motorcycle enthusiasts. It’s all about the passion on two wheels! See you at the shows!” For more details and information call 800-331-5706 or visit www.motorcycleshows.com

RIDER INSURANCE DONATES 2011 HARLEY-DAVIDSON TO POLICE MOTOR UNIT

Through the dedication to support the needs of local law enforcement and the needs of the community, Rider Insurance has donated a 2011 HarleyDavidson Police FLHP Road King to the Springfield Police Motor Unit. Captain John Cook states, “The Springfield Police Motor Unit was started in 2002 by retired Sergeant Richard

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Mickles with a donation from Rider Insurance of its first motorcycle (a BMW). In working with retired Captain Peter Davis and Lieutenant James Fine, Rider has increased the Springfield Motor Unit with its donation of the 2011 Harley.” Founder Harry Bleiwise, President Charles Lally and Chief Operating Officer Lauren Belfiore presented this gift in the fall of 2010. Harry and the entire Rider Insurance family would also like to congratulate all of the officers who have been recently promoted. Rider thanks the Springfield Police Department for their continued involvement in the community and their dedication to riding. In addition to providing insurance coverage to the motorcycle community, Rider feels it is important to give back to the community. Through the Bleiwise Family Charitable Foundations and general corporate sponsorships and donations, Rider has been able to support many organizations. For the list of charitable contributions, visit www.Rider.com. For more information on Rider Insurance or to get a quick quote, call 800595-6393 or visit www.Rider.com.

2011 AMA VINTAGE MOTORCYCLE DAYS MID-OHIO SPORTS CAR COURSE JULY 22-24

in the Philippine Islands, where criminals often use motorcycles to escape law enforcement. However, the shooting was no simple mistake. Firearms are illegal in the Philippines, and before the incident the guard borrowed a friend’s .357 handgun and went to the police station — where he was informed that the filming was taking place. The watchman, accompanied by a police officer, then made his way to the film set to help secure the area. Police Chief Alexis Relado said, “I don’t know why he still accosted them.”

VOTERS SEE RED Fueled by discontent, record voter turnout nationwide not only gave the Republican Party the nod in local and national races, but they also saw red at the ballot box as Red Light Camera initiatives lost big on election day. According to TheNewspaper.com, “Regardless of who you voted for, November 2nd represented a major win for everyone who opposes the use of red light cameras. In a handful of pockets across the nation, voters decided they were sick of the automated machines and by voting against the use of these devices, sent a message to law enforcement, as well as the companies that manufacture red light cameras.” These cameras are often viewed as a revenue-generating scheme rather than safety devices, and many citizens feel that red light cameras even represent a violation of our constitutional rights. On election day, cities and districts across the nation decided to ban the use of these cameras, adding to a growing list of towns that have already voted to do so.

The AMA is pleased to announce the 2011 dates for the country’s premier annual celebration of motorcycling heritage. AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days will take place next year on July 22-24, 2011, at the world-class Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course in Lexington, Ohio. The 20th Annual AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days features classic motorcycles of all makes and styles, and honors the riders who made them famous. Activities include the AMA Racing Vintage Grand Championships, which feature road racing, motocross, hare scrambles, trials and dirt track; North America’s largest inc. motorcycle swap meet; bike shows and awards; a Marque of the Year display that showcases the history of a Luggage • Jackets • Pants • Boots • Rain Gear • Tools • Exhausts • Tires unique brand; a Grand Marshal; a new-product vendor Sprockets • Chains • Bar Risers • Brakes • Lines • Ramps • Lifts • OEM Parts midway; stunt shows; demo rides of current production bikes; and seminars on a number of topics by noted moSport ~ Touring ~ Cruiser torcycling experts. “For many motorcyclists, AMA Vintage Motorcycle • Large Selection of Premium Helmets Days is the premier event of their riding seasons,” said • Tires - Mounted and Balanced AMA President and CEO Rob Dingman. “As we’ve • Track and Race Bike Set-Up seen over the years, the appeal of this event goes beyond classic motorcycle collectors and strict vintage • Great Service and Reasonable Prices competitors. Motorcyclists of all eras are drawn to Suspensions by CTR Suspension Technology AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days, brought together by their common love of all things motorcycling.” TRACK DAY HEADQUARTERS • NESBA Dealer All proceeds from AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days 188 Halsey Road (Rte. 626) • Newton NJ 07860 • www.wforacing.net benefit the Motorcycle Hall of Fame Museum. The goal Ph: 973-579-5103 • Email: wfomotosports@hotmail.com • Fax: 973-579-1806 of the Museum, located on the campus of the American Motorcyclist Association in Pickerington, Ohio, is to tell the stories and preserve the history of motorcycling’s legends and heroes. For more information, call (614) 856-2222, or visit the Museum’s website at MotorcycleMuseum.org.

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NUMBERS DON’T LIE!

ACTOR FATALLY SHOT FILMING MOTORCYCLE GETAWAY SCENE Actor Kirk Abella was masked and filming a getaway scene for the British film “Going Somewhere” when a watchman mistook the performer for a real bandit and fatally shot him. The New York Daily News reported that when the director shouted, “Action,” Abella ran to his waiting motorcycle (and masked stunt driver) to make his film getaway — only to be grabbed by his shirt and shot in the back at close range by volunteer village guard, Eddie Cuizon, in front of dozens of spectators. Police told the media that when the crowd heard Cuizon fire the gun they believed it was just part of the film — not realizing they were witnessing the actor’s murder. The shooting took place in the Parian district of Cebu

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JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s M YST ER IOU S AM ER IC A Joe’s baR 202 w maiN st, ligoNieR, pa 15658 • 724-238-4877 Some folks call places like these “Old Men” bars. Other will mistakenly label them “Dives.” But whatever you might take away from a visit to the center of town watering hole in Ligonier, Pennsylvania we guarantee it will be curious amazement. Joe Snyder ran this bar for years, but it seems his passion was hunting. We’re not talking deer or rabbits here. Nope, we’re talking big game. The bigger the better. Now, before any of you animal lovers go ballistic on the good Doctor here, let’s be clear. I didn’t shoot these animals - Joe did and it’s done so stop crying and come along to a real find in Mysterious America. We were in the town of Ligonier on our way to the Backroads 15th Anniversary rally in North Carolina. Seeing the big neon sign ablaze in the front of Joe’s we moseyed in for a beer. Across from the bar I noticed a skull in a case. “Wow, that’s interesting,” I said to the barkeep. He smiled and pointed to the back of the bar. Behind the pool table in a huge museum-style glass display was a ....polar bear? What is this? The island from Lost? But, that was just the beginning. It seems that Joe Snyder would spend all his vacation time traveling the world and then hunting some of the most exotic animals on the planet. For almost 50 years Joe ran his bar and enlarged his collection

- a taxidermy wonder! The man passed away a few years back, but the collection lives on. Err, bad choice of words there - sorry. As I walked to the back, looking at the menagerie behind the glass I glanced up at the head of an elephant that is supported from the beams of the long bar’s ceiling. A head of an elephant!?

I asked how they possibly could have gotten a thing of such size into the bar, but nobody there had a clue. Continuing around the back of the bar there was another long glass case and I counted over 50 different critters on display. Of course Shira balked a bit at the camel’s head and nobody really would love the stuffed giraffe - such soft creatures. But there they were. Off to the side was a small spiral staircase leading to the second story. If the back of the bar was impressive the second story was a whole larger tale, or would that be tail.

Holy Oz - lions and tigers and bear - oh my! Kangaroos, snakes, buffalo, rhinocerous, ibex, skunks, and almost every creature you could possibly shoot to kill on this planet. An estimated representation of 100 species are on view, all for the price of wandering in; no purchase necessary. Even some that were never actually on the planet in the first place. Jackalopes and squirrels dressed up like Robin Hood and his furry Merry Men. All in all we estimated over 220 stuffed mementoes of Joe’s travels. There are many interesting places we’ve seen in these Mysterious Americas, but Joe’s bar in Ligonier, PA has to be the wildest and has been instantly catapulted to our Top 10 Bars of the World list even if they serve their beer in glass jars and their stools have elephant feet.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 PRODUCT REVIEW

TRIUMPH A2 WATERPROOF BOOTS BY ALPINESTAR

Ah, the combination of protection, comfort and waterproof-ness is desired in every aspect of our riding apparel, and this goes double for boots. When it comes to touring boots, they have to do all of the above while being subjected to the toughest treatment (i.e., we walk around on them, often for serious distances when we’re visiting a park, museum, etc.). Therefore, I’m always on the lookout for a really trick pair of boots that can handle all these chores and last a good long time, too. Being as how my main ride these days is a Triumph, I decided to check out their substantial apparel line and low and behold discovered their A2 Waterproof Boots, which are part of their “Triumph, Engineered with Alpinestars” range. These are described as sport /sport touring boots, and as such they are loaded with protection such as shin guards, molded ankle and calf protection, removable toe scrapers, and God knows what else as the complexity and workmanship are extensive and excellent, in that order. Check out the Union Jack, molded into the leather hook and loop flap closure that goes over the zipper on the inside of the boot. Brilliant. There’s also flex panels incorporated in key areas for comfort, as well as a breathable, waterproof lining. It’s basically like they put everything they could think of in a sport touring boot along with styling to compliment your Triumph. The question is, how do they work? In the 6 months I’ve had these boots, they have been excellent riding com-

panions. First, they are easy to get in and out of, which can be a big deal at the end of a long day. While I haven’t had the opportunity to do the Deluge Test (my fault-not a lack of Deluges), minor rain events have been no problem. Despite the extensive armor and thick lining(s), in the summer weather they breathed well, and my feet never became miniature saunas. While stiff at the onset, the A2s broke in well after a fairly brief time and the flex panels did their work and they became perfectly comfortable to stroll about in at length. I have managed to knock a toe slider off due to encounters with a door I guide motorbikes through to take them to shelter, but they pop right back on. All the motorcycle stuff is good in that these boots are narrow in the right places for easy shifting, they slide on the pegs the way they should and have just the right heel height to keep them in place. I say this while I’m testing a very different set of boots at the moment that do all this basic stuff wrong, making me appreciate the A2s all the more. Nothing like seeing how it isn’t as easy as it looks design-wise to make you appreciate fine boot engineering. So, I give a big thumbs up to these fine Alpinestars especially created for Triumph. At $269.95, they’re certainly not cheap but you can easily pay more and get less, and I speak from experience. US sizes range from 7.5-11. Contact your Triumph dealer or www.triumph.co.uk/usa/clothing.aspx Bill Heald

JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

BIG CIT Y G ETAWAY

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind

pocoNo iNdiaN museum Route 209, bushkill, pa • 570-588-9338 www.pocoNoiNdiaNmuseumoNliNe.com

you will get a view of New Jersey that few see. This is how the land was back when the Native American – the Lenape – lived along these forests, cliffs, waterfalls and rivers. Just west of the Delaware on busy and modern Route 209 you will find an old stately home. This place has

Given our office location, we spend a lot of time scooting around the borders of New York, Pennsylvania and New Jersey. Many of our readers have never been up this way – just north of the Delaware Water Gap – and, once past the towns of Sparta and Newton the rest of the way to the river is pretty much open land – with just a few small hamlets here and there. Head down Struble Road to Tillman’s Ravine and the Walpack Valley and

Rip & Ride® • POCONO INDIAN MUSEUM ROUTE 209, BUSHKILL, PA 570-588-9338 • WWW.POCONOINDIANMUSEUMONLINE.COM GPS DOWNLOAD: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/FILE/BCZ0IO • 65 MILE O/W

EXIT RIGHT FROM TRAMONTIN RIGHT AT SILVER LAKE ROAD RIGHT AT ROUTE 94 NORTH LEFT AT SPRING VALLEY RD CR 659 RIGHT AT CR 521 STAY ON CR 521 TO RTE. 206 LEFT AT RTE. 206 NORTH LEFT ON STRUBLE ROAD

TILLMANS RAVINE WORTH EXPLORING LEFT AT 4-WAY INTERSECTION - MOUNTAIN ROAD GRAVEL ROAD – TO BUTTERMILK FALLS ON LEFT CONTINUE TO NPR 615 – MAKE RIGHT BEAR LEFT AT PETER’S VALLEY ON OLD MINE RD SHARP LEFT AT CR 560 CROSS DINGMANS BRIDGE $1 TOLL STRAIGHT AT RTE. 739 LEFT AT MILFORD ROAD BEAR LEFT AT BROADHEAD ROAD RIGHT AT RTE. 209 POCONO INDIAN MUSEUM A FEW MILES ON RIGHT

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BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011

a history all by itself, though not nearly as old as the story we are here to tell. The house was built in 1840 by John Van Campen – who built a few homes in and around the immediate New Jersey / Pennsylvania area. At one point the home was a stopping point for Stage Coaches heading to and from New York State. During the Civil War runaway slaves were hidden in the basement, as it was part of the Underground Railroad bringing escaping blacks north to Canada. During that horrid part of American History known as Prohibition, not the Civil War, (which was awful too) the place was a Speakeasy called “Joan of Arc” and was frequented by famous and infamous alike such as Legs Diamond and Dutch Shultz. In 1976 the property was bought by the Pocono Indian Museum and today you can visit and learn the real history of the peoples that called this pristine wilderness home. Entering the museum’s gift shop you can pay the light $5 fee and get a small hand-held cassette player that will take you on a short, but informative tour of the museum.

with all sorts of things Native America and the region surrounding the museum still has a lot of natural allure which we will see when you follow our Rip & Ride to the museum itself.

It will bring you through some of the more rugged parts of northwestern New Jersey and some kick-ass roads in Pennsylvania so get ready to go native on this month’s Getaway! This ride will start from Tramontin HD / Honda, which you’ll find at exit 12 off I-80 in Hope, NJ.

YORK 23 TRAILERS TRUCK ACCESSORIES & CAPS 3-Rail Bike Trailers Toy Hauler Trailers with or without Living Quarters It is believed that mankind made its way to North America by way of the land bridge between Alaska and Siberia. Being hunters and gatherers they eventual, over thousands of years, made their way into the region we now know as the Delaware River Valley. The ancestors of the people we know as the Lenape arrived some 10,000 years ago and they lived, more or less, peacefully for centuries in this region. Here at the Pocono Indian Museum the tour will show you how they survived and flourished for all those centuries. The tools they used, the homes they lived in, how the Lenape hunted and farmed. And, just as importantly, how in just a short span of 100 years the tribes that some knew as the Delaware Indians and their culture vanished from this region as European settlers made headway westward. Another thing we found interesting was the strong belief in what was called a creature that was half man half beast that roamed the area. Large with black fur, burning red eyes and an incredible stench the “Messing” was a protector of the forest. Hmmm, we’ll have to get Doctor Seymour O’Life to investigate this tale. The Pocono Indian Museum also has a fine gift shop

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G REAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN the little a “le” inn hc61 box 45 (off highway 375) • Rachel, Nevada 89001 (775) 729-2515 • www.littlealeinn.com Jamie Hansen “Earthlings Welcome,” says the sign outside Rachel, Nevada’s Little A “Le” Inn. And while walking into this diner, located midway down Nevada’s Extraterrestrial Highway, easily feels like entering a different planet, it’s just as easy to feel welcome. “You’re back, and you’ve brought your sweetheart!” This is how the waitress greeted my significant other and me when we stopped in this fall. I was on my way east from San Francisco, and my boyfriend had ridden from Utah to meet me halfway in an old mining town called Tonopah. On his way, he’d visited the A “Le” Inn. As we stepped into the restaurant on our way back east, it was like greeting old friends. Cycle Motion is your provider of motorcycles, ATVs, scooters, snowmobiles, and utility vehicles by Kawasaki, Suzuki, Polaris, and Yamaha. With a large parts department, qualified service technicians and a full shop full of parts and accessories, we're here to meet all your power sport needs.

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As we settled in for cheap beers and Alien Burgers With Secretions (an other-worldly spin on the cheeseburger), it became clear that a visit to the Little A “Le” Inn was about the people as much as the vittles. Agent 0051, the restaurant manager, agrees. He came from Atlanta to stay for a night, got so wrapped with the locals that he lingered for a month, and a year later he moved in. “The people here are the most amazing group,” he says. “All are welcome.” That includes motorcyclists. Agent 0051 —Ken Langley to civilians — describes the atmosphere as bikerfriendly. He just asks for groups of 30 or more to call ahead. As we spoke, he was anticipating a group of bikini bikers to be riding through. Motorcycles are a common sight at the A “Le” Inn, the Extraterrestrial Highway being the inviting stretch of open road that it is. If you’re anything like this biker, though, you hit the highway for the whole party bag of characters you’re bound to meet, not just those on two wheels. And plenty of characters make their way through Rachel, Nevada. First, there are the 67 people who call the town home. You’re likely to find at least a handful of them at the inn, which seems to be the town’s main gathering place. Thanksgiving happens there, as well as Easter, Halloween, New Years and more.

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Then, there’s those who make the place their “pilgrimage”: “People come in campers, people come in vans, they come with the clothes on their back, people come from all over the world,” says Agent 0051. Stargazers are drawn to the dark night skies, while geologists, people into aeronautical science and military hobbyists all stop by Little A “Le” Inn while exploring this dusty American back road. If you find yourself settling in for the night, the bar offers some points of interest. Many take a shot in honor of the test pilots – like the ones who fly low enough overhead to scrape your helmet as you ride in – who have fallen. Or you can try “Cherria 51,” described as “so smooth you’ll never know you were abducted.” Then, there’s the Alien Tequila, housed in its special skull-shaped bottle, made especially for the bar. Balance out this debauchery with wholesome pie or cake, handbaked by the owner’s husband, Bill. If you celebrated one fallen test pilot too many, however, there’s rooms (subdivided trailer units) available for under $50, or you can pitch a tent on the surrounding

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011

BLM land. A word of warning: The Little A “Le” Inn is on the way to almost nowhere. It sits halfway down the Extraterrestrial Highway, a 98-mile stretch of road that connects an abandoned hot springs, via a notorious government test site, with a lonely intersection. We think this is part of the appeal. It’s hard not to feel like you’re rediscovering a forgotten patch of America’s quilt as you zoom with freedom down the empty road, breaking up the long, flat miles

by exploring ghost towns, abandoned mines, and — for the adventurous — mountain caves. A couple practical tips: Be on the lookout for stray cattle and wild horses, and make sure to gas up. If you’re coming from Tonopah, it’s nearly 130 miles to the next station in Ash Springs. For emergencies, the Little A “Le” Inn keeps some spare fuel on hand. We provide a rip and ride from both Tonopah and Las Vegas for this trip.

Rip and Ride®

FROM LAS VEGAS, NV: HEAD NORTH OUT OF TOWN TO I-15 N AFTER 26 MILES, TAKE EXIT 64 FOR US-93 N/ GREAT BASIN HWY FOLLOW US-93 N FOR 85 MILES PASS THROUGH ASH SPRINGS, NV SHORTLY BEFORE INTERSECTING WITH NV-375. GOOD PLACE TO GAS UP TURN LEFT AT NV-318 N/ NV-375 N CONTINUE FOR 39 MILES. TURN LEFT AT OLD MILL ST. THE LITTLE A “LE” INN IS VISIBLE FROM THE ROAD

FROM TONOPAH, NV: GAS UP HERE! THE NEXT GAS STATION IS OVER 130 MILES AWAY IN ASH SPRINGS.

HEAD EAST ON MAIN STREET/ US-6 E OUT OF TOWN HWY 95 AND US-6 E SPLIT, STAY LEFT TO KEEP ON 6 AFTER ABOUT 50 MILES, TURN RIGHT ON NV-375 S WARM SPRINGS (ABANDONED HOT SPRINGS) IS HERE AFTER 59 MILES, TURN RIGHT AT OLD MILL ST. IN RACHEL, NEVADA. THE LITTLE A “LE” INN IS VISIBLE FROM THE ROAD

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Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents

WE’RE OUTTA HERE yboR city hiddeN Jewel oF ceNtRal FloRida Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar, sometimes it tastes so much better after you watched it being rolled in front of you. Just east of the big bay in Tampa, across the state from Daytona, you will find Ybor City (pronounced Eeh-Borh). It was founded in the 1880s by cigar manufacturers and was populated by thousands of immigrants, mainly from Spain, Cuba, and Italy. For the next 50 years, workers in Ybor City’s cigar factories would roll millions of cigars annually. Full of history, in 1898 Teddy Roosevelt and his Rough Riders rode through this town on the way to the Spanish-American War. After World War II the town went through a few decades of abandonment and decay, but that has turned around and today Ybor City has become a thriving little historic town with one heck of a nightlife. In 2008, 7th Avenue, the main commercial thoroughfare in Ybor City, was recognized as one of the “10 Great Streets in America” by the American Planning Association.

When making the ride down to Daytona, this is the perfect place to head for some serious fun and respite from the Daytona crowds. There are a number of hotels in town, but the Hilton Garden worked well for us as it was close enough to 7th Avenue, but far enough to be semi-quiet. If a more relaxed inn might be more your preference try the Ybor House just down the road. With machines safely parked for the night and room acquired we went out on the streets for adventure. With our friends Richard and Dee Dee Ford leading the way it was first to King Corona Cigars to find a couple of good ones and then grab a lunch of Sangria and Cuban Sandwiches. The cold winds of New Jersey in the winter seemed miles away and after lunch we strolled along the busy 7th Avenue, stopping here and there to see what Ybor had to offer – which was a lot. Strolling past the coffee roasting factories the smell was heavenly. If you want to eat, drink and be merry this is the town for you. A little bit New Or-

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads leans, a little bit Key West, a little bit Havana. By this time it was crossing into evening and we took in a few of the local watering holes – The Dirty Shame (love that name), Double Decker and a very piratey place called Gaspar’s Grotto named for the famed pirate Gasparilla. That night found us sitting down for an excellent meal at Carmines, with their Devil Crab and hand-crafted Mojitos. The party keeps going long and hard in Ybor but by the witching hour we had strolled, swaggered and staggered back to the Hilton Garden and called it a night. If you take a few days in Ybor get up early and have a super Cuban breakfast at La Tropicana Café of eggs, chorizo and cheese sandwiches before heading west to the Gulf of Mexico and Fort Desoto Park. Located just south of St. Petersburg it is the largest park within the Pinellas County Park System and consists of 1,136 acres made up of five interconnected islands. In 2005 it was named the #1 beach in the United States. The old fort is very neat, but just walking on this pristine Gulf beach is worth the ride over.

We rented large tandem bicycles to scoot around the large park and in our travels I spotted a beached sea turtle. We went to help him back to the sea, but it seems that nature had other plans for Tommy Turtle. Heading back to Ybor we stashed the machines and made our way to the Ybor City Museum State Park to get a better feel for the history of this old town and then walked over for dinner at the oldest Spanish Restaurant in the United States – Columbia. Opening in 1905 this restaurant has seen Ybor at its best, its worst and now in it rebirth and they serves some of the best Span-

BACKROADS â&#x20AC;˘ JANUARY 2011

SOURCES: YBOR CITY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 813-241-8838 WWW.YBOR.ORG CARMINES RESTAURANT 813-248-3834 KING CORONA CIGARS 888-248-3812 KINGCORONACIGARS.COM

ish food we have ever had. They should. They have been at it for 105 years! The Paella is said to be incredible as are their house specials and the Sangria was certainly the best I have ever had. Our second night in Ybor was just a slight variation of the first. The wine bar at the Bunker, a few cozy local spots and we ended our last night in Ybor the way we started it with cigars at King Corona. For those of you who travel down to Daytona each year, or for those who are just passing through, Ybor City, Florida is a must see and a great place to begin or extend your ride down to our most southern state. Once you settle in and the machines are parked you will find plenty to do in this old cigar town.

YBOR CITY MUSEUM STATE PARK 813-247-6323 YBORMUSEUM.ORG HILTON GARDEN INN 813-769-9267 TAMPAYBOR.GARDENINN.COM YBOR HOUSE 813-792-0394 WWW.YBORHOUSE.COM

JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

The Best of Backroads 2010

rum roll, please! Okay at Monkey with a Gun that really is conga roll, but the thought is the same. Once again we have taken a trip around the sun and have ended up here, at this point in time, putting together our annual Best of Backroads; ending the first decade of the 21st Century. As always we have been sequestered in said MWAG for a long weekend of deliberation, discussion and just a few “dukes up!” moments. Mr. Happy took Bahr easily as Byers looked on smiling. This year featured a few cases of Cupcake Pinot Noir, Makers Mark 46 and a bottle of Connecticut Moonshine that Bill Heald swore was given to his Great Grand Pappy by Sam Clemens himself. Even the good Doctor Seymour O’Life flew in from his sabbatical in the Himalayas to chime in. After a few days of heavy consultation, consumption and corruption we eventually came up with the final list for the year. Strap on your helmets and welcome to the Best of Backroads 2010!

The Great All American Diner Run

We hear, time and again, that the GAADR is what most of you turn to when you get the latest issue of Backroads. Each month we do our best to fold in all the tasty ingredients that make for a delicious Great All American Diner Run. Appetizing roads, tempting location, mouth-watering food and, of course we hope you add in a dash of some of your best friends. This all comes together in each month’s GAADR – so let’s get to the very best of 2010.

2nd Runner Up • the Franklin house tavern 101 North market street, shaefferstown, pa • 717-949-2122 • www.franklinhousetavern.com • gps download: www.sendspace.com/file/b3k3ay

This gem of a restaurant was a place that we had passed so many times in our travels down to the Amish country of Pennsylvania, always in the middle of meals. Finally the stars aligned and we arrived right around lunch one day and were ever glad. The Franklin House tavern has a deep history (started back in 1746), more than enough parking, great ambiance, a wonderful deck and some of the best food we have found for lunch anywhere. There is a reason that we have brought groups here again and again. The place is fantastic and we are sure you will agree when you ride down to Shaefferstown, along one very scrumptious Rip & Ride indeed.

1st Runner Up • the hungry tarpon 77522 overseas highway mile marker. 75.5, islamorada, Fl • 305-664-0535 • www.hungrytarpon.com

If you have never taken the stunning ride from Miami to Key West, well here is one for your ‘bucket list’. With the Atlantic on the left and the blue Gulf of Mexico on your right this short 127.5 mile jaunt is magical, especially in an early morning light. A little over half way down, on the key called Islamorada, on the Gulf side, you will find one of the coolest restaurants we know of – The Hungry Tarpon. Super location, friendly staff, lots of local wildlife – including hungry tarpons, it is the perfect place to put the side stands down and have some seriously good food while soaking in the locale. Next time you head to Daytona make plans to explore further south and hit the Keys but don’t miss our first runner up this year – The Hungry Tarpon!

1st Place Great All American Diner Run 2010 • kundla’s open pit bbQ Rte. 590, hamlin, pa 570-689-7888 • gps download: www.sendspace.com/file/5059th

No one can say that we did not provide some serious BBQ this past year. Heck, we had one issue with four separate eateries, but in September we featured one that we really enjoyed. Everything about Kundla’s Open Pit BBQ was a bit different and special. Riding up you will find a monstrous 30-foot open pit with all sorts of meaty goodness happening all over it. The place is owned by Kundla’s Western Beef Company and it is opened only on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays during the warmer months. The main items are ribs and chicken both of which are juicy, tender and moist. The chicken was fantastic and the ribs looked like Wilma Flintstone had prepared them – they were gynormous! Kundla’s have their own dry rubs, cooking and finishing sauces, which you can buy in their retail meat store next to the outdoor BBQ. Some of the riders we brought there said the taste here was addictive and we have heard the same great accolades from many of you readers that have visited Kundla’s since. Put this superior chow together with the cozy feel to the place, the great service and impressive roads that surround Kundla’s Open Pit BBQ and you have First Place for the Great All American Diner Run for 2010.

Big City Getaway Sometimes you might just be looking for a great ride with a fantastic destination; a little escape from the day to day. Well, that is what the Big City Getaway has always been about and this year we had some very interesting little escapes. We have whittled them down to the top three.

2nd Runner Up • hillier than though western New Jersey • gps download: www.sendspace.com/file/qx4nsr

This was simply a great ride we threw together back in February of last year. Looking to find some of the hillier sections of western New Jersey, this route spent a full afternoon zigzagging around this part of the state and offered some serious and challenging riding up and down some of the steepest and twistiest roads that the Garden State has to offer. Truly a superior day’s ride!

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011

1st Runner Up • sunset hill shooting Range Rte. 314, henryville, pa • 570-629-3981 • www.sunsetrange.com gps download: www.sendspace.com/file/v2av1m

Now this was a really different place for us. Although not gun aficionados, we do have a few weapons here at Backroads Central and a small tactical nuclear device we bought on eBay. But, the Sunset Hill Shooting Range was just too much fun. After the gratifying ride here through the Poconos you will get to handle and shoot just about every weapon, from old to futuristic, and all with a personal firearms instructor to make sure you do it safely and well. AR-15s, Springfield XD-9s, Shira’s deadly showing with a Glock 9mm handgun (she has me in line now!) and the very cool AR-30 Sniper Rifle. You pay by the round here, so keep track of your shooting; but we do promise that you and your group will have a very enjoyable time at Sunset Hill blowing the crap out of things! Fun times kids – fun times!

We’re Outta Here! We stated last year that we take great pride in our We’re Outta Here column. There is not much better than taking you and yours away for a few days of riding bliss, especially when you have a great place to put your head down at night. Let’s see which inns were the best of 2010.

2nd Runner Up • Nolichuckey bed & breakfast cabins 295 kinser park lane, greenville, tN 423-787-7947 • www.tennessee-cabins.com

Part old mill, part home, part B & B the place called Nolichuckey has to be one of the more unique inns we have ever featured in Backroads. Brought to us by our Appalachian (re: Hillbilly) correspondent Tim Wineland, his story painted a most desirous place to park the bike for the evening. Located in the wonderful mountains of Tennessee as Tim wrote the cabins had rooms with a view – serious views – and the cabins had some very interesting décor and sublime ambiance. Throw into this Tim’s wonderful writing style and you’ll find that Nolichuckey Bed & Breakfast Cabins is a winner in every way.

1st Place Big City Getaway 2010 walkway over the hudson highland & poughkeepsie, New york • www.walkway.org gps download: www.sendspace.com/file/oct5l1

This refurbished steel trellis rail bridge, built in 1899, was once the largest of its type in the world. Now converted into a pedestrian walkway it has revitalized towns on both sides of the Hudson River. We rode to the Highland, or western side, of the river to access the Walkway, but the Poughkeepsie side has easy access too. Strolling across the mighty structure is an education in itself, as there are plenty of historical and educational plaques along the way and you can even use your cell phone to access even more information. The views, both to the north and south are breathtaking, especially at the height of the autumn leaf season; and you’ll find the ride to the Walkway just as much fun.

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Although there are plenty of restaurants in Poughkeepsie, we found a superb riverside place, Mariners Restaurant, just below the bridge on the western shore. This offered a great vista of the Walkway from ground level and you can see what a truly magnificent piece of engineering it is, and why it easily took First Place for the Big City getaway 2010!

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JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

1st Runner Up • the charlesworth hotel

1st Place We’re Outta Here 2010 • oz homestay

New Jersey avenue, Fortescue, NJ • 856-447-4928

296 Faulkner Road, shinglehouse, pa • 814-697-7218 www.ozhomestay-huntinglodge.com gps download: www.sendspace.com/file/5hg1bp

Our friends at Weird NJ have called this part of the Garden state the most desolate. Big statement in the most populated state by area in the union. Just where would this vast area of unpopulation be? Well you’ll find it right around the town of Fortescue, where you will also find the Charlesworth Hotel – the inn with the greatest sunset on a Jersey shore. It also is probably the best value too. Only accessible by the remote County Road 637 the town of Fortescue is truly on its own. Here the land and waters mix and if you come in mid-June you will find thousands of horseshoe crabs mating along the shore as they have done for all of history. The Charlesworth, built in 1925, has very comfortable rooms and their restaurant is above and beyond. Remember to bring your own adult beverage for the stunning sunset across Delaware Bay, as Cumberland county is….err – dry. When we say you’re outta here – well, at the Charlesworth you truly are. We love this place and can’t wait to head back to a truly hidden part of NJ.

The choice for the top spot might already have been made as we sat outside Ash and Celeine’s wonderful Oz Homestay in the Alleghenies, right on the New York / Pennsylvania border. Sipping some wine in the warm sunshine and watching perfectly sane folks jump from perfectly able aircraft to land perfectly in front of us was just perfect fun. And, that is what Oz Homestay is – pretty much perfect! From the great road bringing you to the region, to the easy going and friendly feel of the Bed & Breakfast, to the wonderful beds built of exotic woods by Ash himself – we enjoyed everything about this place. Run slightly different than other B & B’s here you get served a gourmet meal and breakfast and if you want a glass of wine, but might have forgotten a bottle, don’t feel shy about pouring one of the few on the bar. The sea salt hot tub will splash away any aches you might have gotten on the ride up and, if you wish, you can join Ash on a little stroll – from about 20,000 feet – like our friend Notso Happy did this day. What’s not to love about a place like Oz Homestay? That is why it easily floated in for the #1 spot for We’re Outta Here 2010!

Mysterious America Without a doubt our oddest monthly column and one you’ll never see in other riding publications is Dr. Seymour O’Life’s Mysterious America. Each month O’Life and his cronies – The Tanked Bags – search out the weird, wacky and wild things that are scattered around this great land. This year, after much battle, the Tanked Bags have come up with their top three for 2010. We hope you agree.

2nd Runner Up • the stoogeum museum 904 sheble lane, amber, pa • 267-468-0810 www.stoogeum.com gps download www.sendspace.com/file/ld89qc

Who doesn’t love the Three Stooges? What, you don’t? Why you knucklehead! You should. This troupe of comedians are American icons and this year we found a museum that celebrates everything Three Stooges. With nearly 3,500 pieces on display Amber, Pennsylvania’s Stoogeum Museum will bring you back to the days when slapstick was king and the stooges ruled. Spanning nearly 50 years this place, which is only open once a month, is well worth the planning and effort to see. Nyuck, nyuck!

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011

1st Runner Up • the curious case of phineas gage cavedish, Vt One of the true medical mysteries of American history, the tale of Phineas Gage is almost beyond belief. How many guys get a 13 pound, three and half foot iron rod driven through their face and out there skull and, not only don’t lose consciousness, but live to tell the story? Well, okay there were some, umm, problems; but Phineas Gage did survive and the memorial plaque in a tiny square in the middle of Vermont will tell you the entire story – as did our November issue in which this second runner up saga was told. Boy, and you think you have headaches!

1st Place Mysterious America 2010 • Farnham colossi 14633 winchester grade Rd/ cR 13, unger, west Virginia • 304-258-5977

Is anyone not surprised that our #1 choice for this year’s Mysterious America would be found in West Virginia? We’re not. This state is packed with oddities. That’s why we love it so. That and the super roads! Hell, they have a town named Odd. Seriously, they do. But on a rural road outside Unger you will find the Farnham Colossi; the personal collection of George and Pam Farnham. Consisting of a varied assortment of giant people, huge pieces of art, a number of slightly agitated alpacas, dinosaurs and even a personal roller coaster - this place is truly what Mysterious America is about. And, all this is on the Farnham’s personal property. A truly interesting place to call home. If you visit, you’re welcome, but please do so with respect.

We, and a number of others, dropped by the Colossi during the 2010 Spring Break, as it was one of the routes to be had that weekend. Who says we don’t try to show you what America is really like? It’s a mystifying nation. And, once you visit the Farnham Colossi you too will agree this is truly part of the puzzle called Mysterious America.

Got a hankering for some more Mysterious America? Check out our friends at weirdnj.com

JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

Colors in the Catskills Colors in the Catskills Colors in the Catskills The Finale Rally

Colors in the Catskills

for one hate to see the end of baseball season. It means, for some, the easy transition to fulltime football but for riders like myself, it just means that the ride time we get is shorter and shorter and the big two-wheel tours will morph into the quick overnighters and sunny afternoon jaunts. Over the last few seasons though we in the northeast have been treated to a great rally right around the time some are considering putting the bikes away till next spring - right around the time that the leaves are doing their ultimate grand finale before jumping off the branches. For the third year in a row Mike Friedle and crew of volunteers and like-minded riders have brought together the Colors in the Catskills rally. Although originally conceived as a BMW Rally and sponsored by the BMW MOA the rally would be open to all machines. Thus we got involved in a small way and tried our best to spread the word. Held in conjunction with Hunter Mountain’s annual Octoberfest the rally would offer a very German feel - with plenty of brats, wurts, oompah bands and beer - for when the bikes were parked for the night.

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BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011

JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

28 Another great plus was the price. Like our own Backroads’ events it was free and they even offered free camping space for those who wanted it. Discounted rooms were available at the lodge and as always all the ingredients for a great time were there - the question would be how much water would be added. The first Colors in the Catskills Rally was a brilliant weekend, but last year the threat of rain kept some away, especially in the latter part of the weekend. This year it was a wait and see sort of deal. A super storm was due to arrive from the south bringing a promise of 6 to 12 inches of rain. That is a lot of moisture in one shot. Remember that the Weather Channel has an unlimited supply of the color green and love to use it. Right on schedule the rains came in mid-week and we waited to see just when they would be sliding by to the east on Friday. With the two GS machines packed and ready to go we took care of the business side of Backroads while occasionally glancing at the radar and satellite imagery.

Come see the Aprilia Dorsoduro 750, Shiver, Mana

We felt a little like NASA as our scheduled blast off time kept getting rolled back. 12 became 1, then 2. Around 2:45 the first peaks of sun hit the ground and the once Biblical rains had settled into a light drizzle. Our 3 pm liftoff happened after a scheduled 3 minute hold (why do they do that?) and in no time we were rolling north towards New York state on wet roads with clearing skies. I try my best to stay away from Route 209 heading towards Kingston. For some reason that road always puts me to sleep, and besides Route 42 has at least some squiggliness to it in places. Monticello is in a state of perpetual construction and the wet clay gave our bikes that ADV tough guy wannabe look simply by riding through the town. Better than a can of Crudential! I had us routed through Frost Valley and Big Indian. With the incredible amounts of rains in the previous few days I was concerned that we’d have to reroute one way or the other just to get to Hunter Mounand RSV4 at: tain. The big stream, actually a branch of the Neversink River, would be a monster and if we were to run into trouble I was sure it would be there. Riding up State Road 19 towards Frost Valley the Neversink was running mean, dark and muddy. I have seen the damage these normally placid Catskill streams and rivers can inflict when angry and swollen with the

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Come see the full line of BMW motorcycles including the R 1200 RT un-godly amounts of rain - but never right after the storm had just passed and still visible in the eastern sky. Pretty much where I thought we’d have a bit of trouble we did. Road workers were there with machinery and flashing lights. The one crew chief signaled me to slow and stop. The waterfall that ran down from the mountain had gone feral and skimmed the asphalt from the road surface. There was still a road of sorts there and not a water-filled chasm so we asked how the rest of the road was. He said it had seen some better days but if we wanted to go it was on us and to be careful. I was told Phoenicia was under two feet of water as the Esopus Creek had come back to claim the town. Great - another fun thing to deal with on our way for a fun in the sun sort of weekend. Big Indian was beat up but we really had no issues and the day had turned into a fine late afternoon. Phoenicia had been under water, but was now just a town of slick mud and we made tracks up Route 214 to the lodge at Hunter Mountain.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 By this time the sun was beginning to set and the combination of our star setting in the west and the heavy clouds to the east made for one of the most colorful evenings I can remember; a good omen for the fun weekend ahead. The morning found a picture perfect day waiting outside the window of the room we grabbed at the lodge. We rode over to where the vendor area was located. Nick Pleznick, Adventurers Workshop and Alt Rider had booths as did many other vendors selling useful motorcycle related items. No crap here. Unlike the previous years, this year’s rains had caused a number of Plans B, C and E to be put into effect, but it all worked out well in the end. Max BMW was running their off-road schools and BMW had a demo truck there as well for those looking to try a new Beemer.

Max was also the key sponsor for the rally as the MOA, for whatever reason, decided they didn’t want to sponsor this year’s Colors in the Catskills and Max and company stepped in and kept the party going. Hey MOA? Do you have something against northeast riders? I’m a member and so is Shira and so were many of the riders who came to this event.

This rally is about to take off and become a serious yearly moto-happening. Like regional publications such as this, regional rallies make the real riding world go around. They are greatly appreciated and become annual destination rides on their own. Just ask the thousands of riders who head to Lake George each year or smaller events like the Ramapo 500 or our own Backroads rallies. C’mon you guys did Lima, Ohio ... Yikes! Nuff said.

29 We were asked to do a seminar that day, but declined as we were up there to ride and followed our own advice and did the Hunter loop from the October issue; this ride ran us all over the region and with the roads in such bad shape in places it was almost like our own little adventure ride. We didn’t need to ride up to the top of the mountain as so many did with Max - we just had to ride our route. Later in the day I had a fellow come over with his clipped Rip & Ride for this same ride and he thanked us for a great day’s journey. Excellent. After we returned we parked the bikes for the night and kilted up. It was time for the second part of the day - Hunter Mountain’s Octoberfest! Hunter has many great festivals throughout the year and you can plan on getting to them all. Logging onto www.huntermtn.com is great place to start.

JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

dle (left) Rally coordinator Mike Frie

We are partial to the TAP New York Brewfest with us riding up the previous day, going for a morning jaunt and then over to TAP in the afternoon.

This afternoon we had a number of riders join us that were at our Fall Fiesta just a few day’s previous - so it was kind of a continuation of that. There were plenty of people, many in German costumes, some great crafts and of course serious food and great German beer to be had. A really super time especially when you combine the German Festival with the German motorcycles

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in addition to all the other great machines in the parking lots. The partying lasted well into the evening and with the mixing of so many great ingredients the colors, the bikes and the festival it made for a superb time. Sunday we bounced around the vendors once again and made a few purchases for the Backroads’ 2010 Holiday Gift Guide.

Before we left we searched out Mike Friedle to thank him once again for putting together, against some serious odds at times, a really classy rally. With the weather cooperating and some help from Max BMW - he once again pulled off a great time for a good number of riders in the northeast. We liked it so much that our final days of Backroads Fall Fiesta will end right there at the Colors in the Catskills 2011 Rally. We hope to see you there!

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011

EVENT RECAP • 2010 CANNONBALL RUN

Motorcycling the old-school way words: Ken Freund Riding a modern motorcycle coast-to-coast is quite an undertaking, one that most riders are very proud of afterwards. There are road hazards, dangerous weather conditions and breakdowns to contend with. But what if that motorcycle was at least 95 years old?

For 45 adventurous riders, the 2010 Motorcycle Cannonball Run offered the chance to owners of pre-1916 machines to learn firsthand what early motorcyclists experienced nearly a century ago. It was named in honor of Erwin “Cannonball” Baker, who from 1910 through the late ‘30s became known for setting 143 cross-country motorcycle and auto endurance records, totaling about 5,500,000 miles. These included an 11day coast-to-coast ride on an Indian motorcycle back in 1914, when the few roads that existed were unpaved. The 2010 Cannonball Run began on September 10 in Kitty Hawk, North Carolina and ended at the Pacific Ocean, followed a 3,294-mile southerly path with overnight stops at Greenville, Concord and Maggie Valley, NC, Chattanooga, TN, Tuscumbia, AL, Tupelo, MS and a rest day in Ft. Smith, AR. Then on to Lawton, OK, Clovis, NM, Albuquerque and Gallup, NM, Flagstaff, AZ, and Victorville CA before reaching the western terminus of Route 66 in Santa Monica. For these antiques, the Motorcycle Cannonball Run had three competition classes: Class 1 for single-cylinder machines with one gear. Class 2 for multi-cylinder machines with single speeds. Class 3 is for motorcycles with multi-speed transmissions and includes machines with either twospeed or three-speed transmissions. Rules were liberal and for safety or reliability more-modern parts such as front brakes could be used: “As long as the engine in your machine is original then it’s eligible to run for the

prize. Any reproduction chassis or parts should be as they were originally.” Among the contestants were two women: American Chris Sommer Simmons, who also had an all-woman chase crew, and Katrin Boehner of Ingolstadt, Germany, who was accompanied by her husband Dieter Eckel, who rode a 1913 BSA. Boehner rode a 1907 J.A.P. and ended up winning her class, while her hubby had to drop out due to mechanical problems. Competitor’s support vehicles could not follow their riders, only official sweep crews on motorcycles with specially made sidecars could aid those having problems enroute. Riders who could not repair their motorcycles and then continue under their own power had their bikes loaded on the sidecars and carried to the end of that leg, where their support crews waited. Riders lost one point for every mile they do not ride themselves.

Each day of the Cannonball Run had its own unique challenges. There was drenching rain and scorching heat and rider exhaustion. Riding motorcycles that are nearly a century old has its risks too. Heavy downpours increased dangers to riders, when the route was redirected in New Mexico from a closed Route 66 to I-40 with its heavy traffic. Chase riders helped tow bikes

JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

32 that couldn’t make it up long steep grades like Magazine Mountain, and New Mexico’s Continental Divide at 7,275 feet elevation. Some riders pushed or pedaled their under-powered machines, while others burned up belts and clutches. There were many breakdowns, including blown engines, carburetor and magneto failures. Connecticut magazine publisher Buzz Kanter finally gave up in Arizona after rebuilding his engine, fighting hard starting, magneto and other problems along the way. In the desert near Laughlin, Nevada Dave Thompson’s 1914 Indian burst into flames. Thompson stopped, laid his bike over, beat the fire out and got to work getting his Indian running again. Even Buddy Stubbs, the owner of a mega Harley-Davidson dealership and museum in Phoenix, Arizona, had to ship his 1915 Excelsior back home due to extensive engine repairs needed.

On Sunday, September 26, the remaining motorcycles grouped up in a parking lot in Santa Monica, for a finale at the pier. At 1pm, 37 motorcycles crossed the finish line, although a few that had major problems were carried upon special sidecars powered by newer—but still vintage—motorcycles.

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Karen Davidson (daughter of Willie G.) greeted riders and we spoke with some of the tired competitors, who were surrounded by their families and fans. Besides the toll of tough conditions, several riders told us the Run cost them around 30 to 40 grand, although everyone we asked said they’d do it again! Rumors have it that another ride is possible in 2011, perhaps with motorcycles up to about 1929. For more information on the Cannonball Run, visit www.motorcyclecannonball.com.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 2011 KAWASAKI NINJA 1000

SPORTBIKE? SPORT TOURER? BEST OF BOTH WORLDS? They’ve been a staple of the sporting motorcycle world for decades: sportbikes that blend top-shelf engine and handling performance with a high degree of comfort, practicality and devastating good looks. Kawasaki has built plenty over the years, from the original Ninja 900R of the 1980s, to the ZX11 of the ’90s, and the ZZR1200 of the ‘00s – standout performers that are also easy to live with, day in and day out. For 2011, an all-new model slots into this legendary and ultra-capable category – Kawasaki’s new Ninja 1000. Like the original, which debuted to an amazing chorus of press and customer kudos back in 1986, the new Ninja 1000 offers an alluring blend of capability and technology, from the very latest racetrack components, to astounding engine and chassis performance, and to cutting-edge styling that’ll stop you in your tracks the instant you lay your eyes on one. It all starts with a core motorcycle – frame, engine, suspension – that’s so good, so flexible and so downright capable it’s been wowing press and customers worldwide all year long: Kawasaki’s amazing Z1000 super-standard. Using the Z1000’s new-think engine and chassis package as a starting point, Kawasaki engineers added radical, knife-edged bodywork along with a host of cool features that push the Ninja 1000’s performance, capability and flexibility envelopes to amazing heights.

Ninja 1000 motivation comes by way of a highly advanced open-class powerplant – a 1,043cc, DOHC, liquid-cooled, 16-valve inline-four featuring a long-stroke design for instantaneous power, a slick-shifting sixspeed gearbox, and no-fuss electronic fuel injection for the type of seamless throttle response – warm or cold – that makes short work of tricky traffic, higher-speed backroad situations and everything in between. Power? There’s a ton of the stuff, but the real magic of this engine is its flexible, midrange-heavy thrust that accelerates you out of corners and away from stops in a satisfying manner that’s sure to keep you entertained. Digital fuel injection helps, and the quartet of 38mm Keihin downdraft throttle bodies slam the perfect mix of fuel and air into the combustion chambers with help

ADVENTURE RIDERS WINE FOR ADVENTURING WINE DRINKERS The folks at RawHyde Adventure Riding Schools are thrilled to announce the release of their Adventure Riders Wine. We are too. Now it may seem funny that a motorcycle company is offering up a wine, but if you have ever seen their wine cellar you would understand why. The wines are a collaboration between RawHyde and Mike Kumelis of Mantra Wines in Sonoma County, California. At the moment you can order two excellent wines, the Adventure Riders Dirty Cabernet or the Grand Syrah. They have a third wine coming soon which will be a Bordeaux blend, which is to be known as RawHyde Red. These wines are perfect for the Adventure Rider after a hard day on the Dalton Highway in Alaska or Ruta 40 in Patagonia. To see more and order your own vino log onto www.rawhyde-offroad.com/wine.

from an advanced ECU, oval sub-throttles and a cool air intake system that routes fresh air to the airbox via ducts at the front of the bike. A balance shaft driven off the crankshaft keeps the solidly mounted engine as smooth as possible, while a radically designed 4-into-2-into-2 catalyzer-equipped exhaust system offers a pleasing growl without being overly loud along with the cleanest possible emissions. It’s a perfect engine for a road-going sportbike – smooth, powerful and flexible. Like the superb-handling Z1000, the new Ninja 1000 features an advanced aluminum frame similar in design to that of the all-conquering Ninja ZX-10R sportbike. The lightweight cage curves over the engine, cradling it from above and bolting solidly to it in three places, with a rubberbacked fourth mount provided for added vibration isolation and torsional rigidity. This design allowed engineers to keep the waist of the bike very narrow for superb rider interface and high levels of comfort and control. The main frame and swingarm pivot pieces are cast as a single unit, with welds eliminated wherever possible for seamless aesthetics. The wheels, brakes and suspension parts that control that frame/engine duo are thoroughly advanced. Up front is a stout 41mm inverted fork that’s fully adjustable for spring preload, rebound and compression damping – just what you need for dialing things in perfectly for your weight and riding style. In back is a horizontal back-link shock system featuring a damper mounted nearly horizontally above the swingarm for optimal mass centralization and excellent heat resistance. The gas/oil shock is adjustable for both spring preload and rebound damping, and tuned for effective performance everywhere from backroad sport riding to bopping along a pothole-infested city street. As a package, the Ninja 1000’s suspension is designed to provide the rider

JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS with clear communication of what’s happening at the contact patches, while still taking enough edge off the bumps to provide a comfortable ride on longer trips. Strong and responsive stopping power is provided by the new Ninja’s racing-spec brakes. The dual 300mm petal-type rotors up front are squeezed by ultra-rigid radially mounted calipers pressurized by an equally race-spec radial pump master cylinder. In back is another high-tech disc setup. Braking power and feel at both ends are amazing, giving rookies and pros alike a feeling of confidence while aboard. The wheels holding those brakes – lightweight six-spoke supersport-style hoops – are also the latest in production technology. They not only reduce unsprung weight, which allows the suspension to function optimally, but they carry the latest in radial tire technology. The result is excellent grip, precise handling and a promised extended tire life. But perhaps our favorite aspect of the new Ninja 1000 is its racy, full-coverage bodywork. Kawasaki has blessed the new bike with a thoroughly radical look, one that’s fresh and riveting. But despite its edgy, rakish appearance, the bodywork cleaves enough of a hole in the atmosphere to offer a reasonably quiet cocoon for the rider. A manually adjustable, three-position windscreen helps here, allowing riders to pick just the right setting for their height and riding style. Integrated front turn signals, a ZX-6R-spec front fender, a stylish tail section, a wildly styled exhaust system and a full-featured instrument panel help complete the look. It’s one you won’t soon forget. And despite its radical stance, the new Ninja 1000 retains comfortable ergonomics. The handlebars are mounted higher than on a supersport machine and the pegs a touch lower, all of which makes the Ninja 1000 a very capable sport-tourer, and certainly a sportbike you could spend the day aboard without undue strain. To sweeten the day- or weekend-trekking deal even more, Kawasaki offers a line of optional touring-oriented accessories, including hard-case saddlebags, a top trunk, heated grips and more. All things we like to see for Backroads exploring. It’s great to find such all-around functionality and performance in a sport motorcycle these days, with many bikes so specialized they’re almost onetrick ponies. But the 2011 Ninja 1000 is a different animal – one with wideranging talent in sport, sport-touring and commuting roles. And because it’s based on a motorcycle – the Z1000 – so all-around competent and happy in its own skin, you know the newest Ninja will be a hit. Chalk up another great do-it-all sportbike to the Kawasaki folks.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011

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JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

36 PRODUCT REVIEW

SARGENT SADDLE FOR BMW F650 GS

Shira Kamil Picking up my new F650GS in mid-September, it wasn’t long before I had about 3,000 miles on the clock and one sore tush as well. The bike is great, but the stock saddle left much to be desired. Halfway through each day I was making excuses to stop for lunch – simply to get off the bike and stretch the glutes. Looking for a quick and easy install solution, I put in a call and made an order from Sargent Cycle in Florida. We have had their saddles before, on my Ducati Monster and Brian’s VFR, and found their fit and finish to be top notch. Continuing in the tradition of meticulously designed and produced saddles, Sargent World Sport Performance Seat offers up seatage for the BMW F 650. This saddle also fits the F800GS. Utilizing the latest design techniques, exacting manufacturing processes, and superior materials, each World Sport seat pan is precision-molded for superior fit and installs just like the stock seat (no additional hardware required). The BMW F 650 / 800 GS features Sargent’s injection-molded PolyTec base pan. This super tough, lightweight material provides an exceptional, high-performance seat foundation. Sargent’s Super Cell Atomic Foam suspension is their own unique and proprietary blend and offers resilience, firmness, and vibration-absorption qualities – just what I was looking for. In addition, the seat shape has been enhanced in two important ways: The seating platform is level, front to back (unlike the OEM seat) allowing for more freedom of movement and it is wider and slightly “dished” (side to side), resulting in drastically improved lateral weight and pressure distribution. While the stock seat allowed for front/back movement to ease the pain, the Sargent saddle was that much more

comfortable that movement was not an issue. While many a custom seat adds height to the saddle to make for a more cushy ride, the Sargent saddle was spot on, if not a bit lower. When one is vertically challenged, this makes a big difference. The World Sport Performance Seat for the BMW F650GS features a high performance synthetic seat covering, which in our past experience, has lasted for years. The F650GS is a small bike and could use more storage space and Sargent comes through on this with a built-in storage area in addition to the OEM tool holder. This saddle is offered in both the Classic Sport-Touring model and the Enduro model. You can choose different welt (piping) to color match your machine and in a few weeks after ordering Lee, our UPS guru, drove up with a big white box addressed to me. Normally, with aftermarket parts, I let the pros or, in some cases lacking a handy pro I’ll let “Pit-Boy Brian” do the installation, but the Sargent saddle is so precisely like the stock seat that I simply popped the old one off and popped the Sargent on. In seconds I had an all day ride. On the road it was apparent how evil the stock saddle was. It constantly amazes me that manufacturers can make such great improvements with engines, suspension and tires and never seem to address one of the few places that a rider’s body actually touches the machine. Thankfully the folks at Sargent have us all covered on that front. The Saddle for the F650GS lists $479.95 with a custom welt and for a bit more a heating option is available. Sargent has saddle applications for a large number of machines so check their website www.sargentcycle.com for availability and pricing. Thank you Sargent! Once again you have saved my butt!

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011

UPCOM ING EVENTS CAL ENDAR

What’s Happening

E V E RY M O N T H - W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G

MAY 2011

Every Sunday • Eastern Suffolk ABATE Breakfast Run. Crossroads Diner - Calverton NY. 10:30am. Eat and Ride After • 631-369-2221

13-15 • Join Morton’s BMW for their first-ever Spring Fling Rally held at the historic Natural Bridge hotel in the scenic Shenandoah Valley in VA. Just off I-81 and the Blue Ridge parkway, the rally will feature self-guided rides, both on and off-road, through the gorgeous countryside, a catered barbecue (or vegetarian) dinner Saturday night, door prizes and more. Vendors welcome. $45/pp registration. For more info, visit www.mortonsbmw.com/springfling_2011.html or call 540-891-9844.

First Sunday of the month • Layton Meet at the Layton Deli, corner of Dingmans/Bevans Rd, CR 560, Layton, NJ. Meet around 8am – breakfast available. Join others for a ride or head out on your own Every Tuesday • The Ear - Spring St, NYC. Come meet some fellow riders and do some benchracing or whatever. 8pm-ish Third Tuesday • 7:30pm ABATE of the Garden State, North Jersey chapter. Black River Barn, 1178 Rt. 10 West, Randolph, NJ. 7:30pm. New members and all mc brands welcome. Help fight for rights as a motorcyclist in NJ! Alex Martinez 973-390-1918

JANUARY 2011 7-9 • 34th North American International Motorcycle SuperShow. Toronto International Centre, Ontario, Canada. Over 500 exhibitors and 1,000 motorcycles on display in7 giant halls. A true shopping extravaganza and unveiling of 2011 new motorcycles. 3 Days of ‘Everything in Motorcycling’ including touring, cruisers, racing, performance bikes, vintage, classics and custom bike showcase. Live bands, fashion shows, special guests and club/assocation displays. on-site restaurants and Beer Garden. For full information visit www.supershowevents.com 14-16 • Progressive International Motorcycle Show at Washington, DC • www.motorcycleshows.com

19-22 • 13th Annual BACKROADS’ Spring Break. This year we’ll be heading to the Finger Lakes - Canandaigua, to be specific. We’ll spend three nights at the Inn on the Lake Resort while enjoying the leisurely riding, beautiful scenery, gorgeous gorges and comradery. Limited rooms, as always, so book yours today. Special rates apply, so ask for the Backroads Group when booking • www.theinnonthelake.com • 800-2282801 19-22 • Concours Owners Group Spring Fling Northeast Area Rally. Penn Wells Lodge, Wellsboro, PA. Nearby camping also available. Saturday buffet dinner included in rally fee. Detauks abd fee information online www.cog-online.org • 978-394-2591

JULY 2011 17-24 • Head off with Backroads’ publishers Brian & Shira for a tour of a lifetime as we join up with Edelweiss for their High Alpine Tour. Ride the roads you have dreamed of in the past - Paso Del Stelvio, the Grossglockner, the famed Dolomites. We’ll even have a day’s ride to Venice. For all the information you’ll need to book this great trip, please email Doris at Edelweiss Travel: doris.waldegger@edelweissbike.com

21-23 • Progressive International Motorcycle Show at Javits Center, New York, NY • www.motorcycleshows.com

FEBRUARY 2011 19-20 • 93rd running of the Crotona Midnight Run. Longest continuously run motorcycle event in the USA. Competitive road run with an average speed of 30mph. All qualified finishers receive medallion with trophies for 1, 2, and 3 place in expert and novice class. $20/bike. Sign in: Sat, Feb. 19 10:30pm • Key Time: Midnight. Nathan/Kolh Parking Lot, Central Park Ave, Yonkers, NY • 201-286-9346 • www.ramapomc.org

APRIL 2011 9-10 • Rumble and Roar Motorcycle Show, Center of Progress Bldg, NYS Fairgrounds, Syracuse, NY. Sat. 11am-6pm • Sun. 11am-5pm. New, custom, vintage motorcycles, parts, accessories, leather, destinations, clubs, chili cook-off, beer samplings, music, fashion shows, bikini contest, product seminar, Ms. Rumble & Roar contest and more. For more details visit www.rumbleroar.com • 888-334-2856

AUGUST 2011 8-12 • Concours Owners Group National Rally. Green Mountains at Mount Snow, VT. Rally fee includes buffet dinner. Discount for COG members. For more information please visit www.cog-online.org • 978-394-2591

SEPTEMBER 2011 26-Oct. 2 • Backroads Fall Fiesta Rally. We are still finalizing the details, but the gist will be: We’ll start in Sturbridge, MA on Sept. 26 for a night at the Publick House Inn. From here we’ll roll on up to Boothbay Harbor, Maine and spend a couple of days exploring the coastal towns and roads of the Pine Tree State. Off we then go to our friends at the Gray Ghost Inn for an evening and we’ll finish up our journey at Hunter Mountain and the Colors in the Catskill Rally. If this sounds like a great plan, stay tuned and we’ll get you booking information as soon as we can. Questions? 973-948-4176

MORE EVENTS ON NEXT PAGE

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JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

UPCOM ING EVENTS CAL ENDAR 2010-2011 POLAR BEAR SCHEDULE 1/9/11 • DETHOMASI'S EAST 5 POINTS INN, Vineland, NJ • 856-691-6080 1/16/11 • WEARHOUSE GRILL, 161 Route 181, Hopatcong, NJ • 973-663-2222 1/23/11 • SIR JOHN'S, 230 Washington Place, North Brunswick Twp, NJ • 732-2973803 1/30/11 • DADDY O REST, 4401 Long Beach Blvd, Brant Beach, NJ • 609-494-1300 2/6/11 • THE EXCHANGE, 160 E. Main St, Rockaway, NJ • 973-627-8488 2/13/11 • PIC-A-LILLI INN, 866 Route 206, Shamong, NJ • 609-268-2066 2/20/11 • LANDSLIDE SALOON, 1090 Route 173, Pattenburg, NJ • 908-735-6919 2/27/11 • HOOTERS, 25 Route 23 South, Wayne, NJ • 973-837-1876 3/6/11 • BAHRS LANDING, 2 Bay Ave, Highlands, NJ • 732-872-1245 3/13/11 • FIREHOUSE EATERY, 455 Saint Georges Ave, Rahway, NJ • 732-382-9500 3/20/11 • LONG VALLEY PUB & BREWERY, 1 Fairmount Rd, Long Valley, NJ • 908876-1122 3/27/11 • THE CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN, 1 Route 15 South, Augusta, NJ • 973-3002300 4/3/11 • BRIAN'S HARLEY-DAVIDSON, 600 S. Flowers Rd, Langhorne, PA • 215-7529400 4/10/11 • FLYING CLOUD CAFE, 800 New Hampshire Ave, Atlantic City, NJ • 609348-8222 4/17/11 • CAPE MAY VFW POST#386, 419 Congress St, Cape May, NJ • 609-8847961 4/30/11 • POLAR BEAR DINNER, Knights of Columbus, Pine St, Old Bridge, NJ • 908251-9817. You must have tickets to attend. To check on Polar Bear Cancellations & Updates call 908-722-0128

What’s Happening MOTORCYCLES, MIDGETS AND MAYHEM TOUR Kev-Marv Productions now in its 15th year presents exciting motorcycle shows Featuring the Half Pint Brawlers and the Finnegan 10-in-One Circus Sideshow Motorcycles, Midgets and Mayhem is the rally cry of the 2011 Northeast Motorcycle Shows this winter season kicking off Jan. 8th! Kev-Marv Productions will spread its own brand of excitement and mayhem across the Northeast with incredible entertainment at all eight of its 2011 shows, including two new venues: Chantilly, VA and Providence, RI. And of course all your favorite dealers, vendors, motorcycles and merchandise can be found under one roof. This year’s dynamic 2011 show schedule is: Jan. 8-9 – Providence, RI, Rhode Island Convention Center Jan. 15-16 – Salem, NH, Rockingham Race Track Jan. 21-23 – Reading, PA, Greater Reading Expo Center Jan. 29-30 – Boston, MA, World Trade Center Feb. 19-20 – Chantilly, VA, Dulles Expo Center Feb. 26-27 – Hartford, CT, Connecticut Expo Center March 12-13 – Wilmington, MA, Shriner’s Auditorium March 19-20 – Philadelphia, PA, Greater Philadelphia Expo Center Coming directly from SPIKE TV, see the "Half Pint Brawlers" featuring “Puppet” at every Northeast Motorcycle Show. A Chicago native, Puppet is the founder, leader and showbooker for the Half Pint Brawlers. These self-proclaimed hardcore little person wrestlers, led by their gregarious handler, Puppet entertain crowds across the U.S. with their unique brand of wrestling prowess. Step right up and don’t be shy, you may not believe your eyes! The antics of the Finnegan 10-in-One Circus Sideshow are definitely not for the squeamish! See what these incredible performers pull off: a light bulb for lunch, a nap on nails, or even worse, the suspenseful drill you just have to see for yourself! This travelling side show has been entertaining thousands in the Northeast for years and now they are exclusively performing at the 2011 Northeast Motorcycle Shows. Of course the real attraction is the motorcycles! Vendors from near and far will show and sell their wares during these much anticipated events. Tickets range from $6 and $7 for children to $13 and $15 for adults. For more information and full details visit te website at www.kevmarv.com

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BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011

EVENT RECAP

LARZ ANDERSON EUROPEAN MOTORCYCLE DAY worthy attire. Everyone is welcome but for some reason, the open pipe/smoke show crowds stay away. Attendence during the six hour show draws a very large crowd of people. There’s plenty of room to see what’s on display and you can spend as long as you like with each bike. For this rider, it’s a truly welcome change to have a

Jay Duchin 2010 marked the 17th anniversary of European Motorcycle day at Larz Anderson Auto Museum. Each year the turn out of machines seems to get better and better. The grassy setting creates an intimate backdrop to this wonderful event. One quickly forgets you’re only minutes from downtown Boston as you walk between the stainless and polished bits. That being said, you do have to watch out for those MA drivers on your journey (I can say that because I am one). The majority of the machines are from Italy and Germany but the mix of other marques really makes this event so interesting. Attendance did feel a bit off from past years but there was no lack of MotoPorn on display. There’s a little bit of everything from modern sportbikes, to trials bikes, to real choppers made with Triumph engines. In the early years of the event, the celebration happened in mid October, not the best time to hold an outdoor motorcycle event in New England. It was a welcome change when last year, the organizers moved the date to September. The majority of riders show up wearing full face helmets, reflective vests and crash

whisper quiet show (with the exception of some music being played over the speakers). This event is more than just a bike show. Your admission fee allows you entry to the Larz Anderson Auto Museum. The Museum’s home is the original 19th century Anderson family “carriage house” modeled after the Chateau-de-Chaumont in France. It is virtually a French style castle amidst a spectacular park. Boston architect Edmund March Wheelright, creator of some of Boston’s best known landmarks, (Continued on Page 41)

Get out of the city and head to the country…

Country Rode Motowerks. Sat. Jan. 8th @ 2pm Phil Freeman from MotoQuest Tours Alaskan Slideshow

Sat. Jan. 15th Autocom Rep on hand to discuss communication systems

Sat. Jan. 22nd @ 1pm Alaska, You Can Do It Two-Up! by Karen and Brian Managan

Check our website for all upcoming events

JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

40 PRODUCT REVIEW

HYPERPRO SHOCKS

Joni Mitchell sang “that you don’t now what you got – till it’s gone.” The same train of thought can be applied directly to the suspension on your motorcycle. When bikes roll out of the showroom, for the most part, they are suspended by basic shocks and forks - nothing too special here. After 10,000 or so miles these stock units, and their usefulness, slowly begin to fade away. The key point here is “slowly.” Like the proverbial frog slowly boiled in water - you don’t know it’s happening till it’s happened. Sometimes the best way to realize that your stock suspension is heading south is to put on a new pair of shocks. Yes, we know we’re talking big bucks here, especially when it is a leap of faith. But, just like the “Oh my God” feeling you get when you replace your tires - replacing your shock or shocks in our BMW R1200GS’ case - will show you just how poorly your bike was handling, for now it will be handling far superior. With a year and a half of hard riding on our 2009 GS we thought, although the bike still felt great, that new shocks might make a huge difference in the machine’s performance, handling and comfort. There are a number of alternative suspensions on the market these days, some better known than others. When time came to change the shocks we talked to the folks at EPM, in Manalapan, NJ, Well-known mavens of motorcycle suspension. They recommended suspension components from the Dutch company HyperPro. Hyperpro has developed the new 3D shock and is able to guarantee 100% quality because their shocks are manufactured totally in-house. All of the light-weight billet aluminum parts have been CNC machined in the Hyperpro factory in Europe. They control the entire process insuring the

Play it safe on the outside Keep it sexy on the inside…

highest quality. And, quality is what high-end suspension is all about. Thus the booko bucks. These shocks are really stunning to look at and handle. In fact, when we first received the HyperPro shocks we just let them sit up on the shelf like fine purple pieces of motoart. As we said there are a number of well-known suspension companies around the globe - Ohlins, Penske, Works – but we went for HyperPro and here are the reasons why. It begins with the way they are designed, created and finished. With HyperPro shocks the compression and rebound damping are both completely adjustable with high and low speed adjustments for compression damping. They use a use a rising-rate full progressively wound springs for better absorption of small bumps and pavement “chop” while still offering good control on bigger bumps or for higher rates of speed. The shaft has a larger diameter than the competition allowing for more strength and more oil displacement, which allows better fine tuning of damping. The larger diameter also allows for greater durability. We have seen some shafts have critical failure- usually in critical areas that can be fatal - and we never want to be stuck somewhere because the shaft on our shock has bent or snapped. With HyperPro shocks the length of the 3D shock can easily be adjusted by specifying the LA option on most of the shocks; and the Hyperpro 3D shock utilizes bladder technology in the reservoir to separate the oil from the nitrogen gas. Other manufacturers use a floating piston. A floating piston has to overcome stiction before it can react. A rubber bladder does not “know”

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BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011

friction and reacts smoother and faster to pressure changes. This allows for smoother and faster reaction over rough surfaces. These springs comes in a bright purple and it’s hard not to notice when approaching a bike that it is shod with HyperPro technology. Once installed the fun really begins. As great as any shock will be they will only do their job correctly if the suspension is “dialed” in for the rider. When you order your shocks from EPM there will be a number of questions. Riding style, your weight – things of that nature - and there is a reason for this. Klaus Huenecke. Mr. EPM. Klaus is renowned for his expertise in all types of suspension technology. When you buy your suspension from EPM, you get the benefit of this tremendous experience. And when you order a Hyperpro shock, it will arrived already set up based on Klaus’s experience; which means most customers will barely need to make any adjustments to get the best suspension performance. Still we couldn’t leave well enough alone. After a few thousand miles we began to play with the settings. Since the installation the HyperPro shocks - that were already light years beyond the stock suspension – we began to make small changes to the shocks and things began to change – for the better. At one point both front and rear units really ‘clicked in’ and the ride became even more impressive. Since then the GS has responded better, been far more comfortable and has a very “planted” feel over all sorts of surfaces and weather conditions. To steal from myself - the difference between the stock OEM suspension and the HyperPro suspension is more than night and day – it is more like a dark stormy winter night and a bright warm summer day. And, who doesn’t want to ride on a bright warm summer day? EPM has HyperPro suspensions for most modern machines and they even have other applications for older machines with their YSS- series shocks. Be aware that high-end suspension like HyperPro are not cheap and, depending on machine these shocks can run any where between $600 and $1,000 – but if you are serious about riding, and do not have another fun cash-sucking habit like sailing or flying, then invest the cash. You will be shocked at how much better your motorcycle’s ride will improve. To find out more call Klaus at EPM toll free at 877-786-6543. To see if they have suspension for your machine log in at www.epmperf.com.

designed the elaborate three story structure. Here is where the Anderson cars and horses first were housed, serviced, and displayed. There are gabled roofs, turrets, driver’s quarters, ivy walls and cathedral ceilings. This jewel of a building is surrounded by Larz Anderson Park, part of the original Anderson estate, with a landscaped pond and rolling lawns shaded by century old trees. Sixty-four acres of picnic spots, play areas, and a magnificent view of Boston’s skyline, are here for everyone’s enjoyment. It is a spectacular backdrop for European motorcycles and their admirers. In an area known for its wealth of museums and cultural institutions the Larz Anderson Auto Museum is unique. It features the oldest collection of historic automobiles in the nation. What the collection lacks in quantity is made up by the quality of unrestored treasures. The museum prides itself on collecting originals with minimal restoration. Cars in the collection range from brass era to a modern Ferrari F1 car. If you tire of walking the grounds, you can visit the vendor tents where local motorcycle shops and clubs sell things from shirts to moto-memorabilia. Last but not least, the Ducati demo truck was on hand for riders wanting to sample the latest and greatest from Italy. Rarely do we need excuses to ride but if you need one, European Motorcycle Day is great destination. CONGRATULATIONS TO THE WINNERS OF EMD BEST IN SHOW : #25, 1958 BMW RENNSPORT, OWNED BY DOUG MORRISON CONCOURS AWARD OF EXCELLENCE: #60, 1966 DUCATI MARK 3, JACK BRANDENBURG LARZ ANDERSON AWARD: #49, 1910 MOTOSACOCHE MODEL M, OWNED

MARK GITTSON

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS AEROSTICH CO2 POWER KIT No matter where you are, this compact, lightweight kit gives you air. Five threaded 16 gram CO2 cartridges, a control valve and a 3.5” flexible valve adapter hose, all store neatly inside a 5”×5” nylon envelope bag. Enough air to refill a flat tire or anything else that requires inflation on the road or around camp. 5”x5”, 12 oz. $24.00 from Aerostich - To get a free catalog, call 800 222 1994 or email catalog@aerostich.com.

AEROSTICH GEAR RACK SYSTEMS Caching all of your riding gear in one place will ensure you are ready to go at a moment’s notice, whether you feel the need for speed or just a gallon of milk from the corner store. These riding gear racks both offer a no-frills industrial design that provides convenient, functional all-in-one storage for your gear, and probably will outlast the wall they’re screwed to, too. The two 24”x14” chrome wire racks of the Aerostich Ride-Ready Gear Rack provide exceptional airflow for helmets, boots, gloves, tank bags, etc, while a 1” lip ensures gear stays put. Mount the sturdy 34” chrome posts to any wall and adjust shelf height to match your specific gear storage needs. Alternatively, the Aerostich Gear Rack offers an 11” deep x 20” wide shelf with a slotted pattern to ensure exceptional ventilation, and a sturdy stainless steel coat rack bar to suspend an array of riding suits, jackets, pants, electrics, and fleece. Both storage systems provide ample space for two helmets, a helmet and a pair of boots, a pair of boots and gloves…you get the idea. Mount one of these racks in your garage, entryway, hallway or bedroom and make your gear instantly ready for any riding mission. Wall attachment hardware not included: Visit a local hardware store for appropriate (drywall, brick, or wood paneling, etc...) fasteners. Russian military fighter aircrews based in Murmansk use racks exactly like these. We imagine. To get a free catalog, call 800-222-1994 or email catalog@aerostich.com.

GERBING’S NEW HEATED SOCKS If you get the kind of cold feet that don’t involve a walk down the aisle, then Gerbing’s has the solution. Introducing the all-new Gerbing’s Heated Socks. Made from a perspiration-wicking 4-way stretch material, these socks are the ultimate in cold weather comfort for your feet. First, they’re extra tall, so they ride up over your calf. No matter how tall or short your boots are, these socks work. Second, the socks are cut specifically for left and right feet, so they fit you even more snugly to deliver extra heat, particularly to your toes. Finally, that heat comes from Gerbing’s patented Microwire heating system, with wires so thin you won’t feel them. And with heat delivered both above and below your feet, you’ll be riding wrapped in soothing comfort. The new Gerbing’s Heated Socks. Give cold feet the boot. Gerbing’s Heated Socks. $89.95. www.gerbing.com

GERBING’S NEW HYBRID LT JACKETS LETS YOU TAKE YOUR HEAT WITH YOU Riders love Gerbing’s heat but they didn’t like disconnecting from their bike’s electrical power to take a break. With the new Gerbing’s Men’s and Women’s Hybrid LT Jackets, you don’t have to leave the heat back where you left your handlebars. Made from Cordura and styled to flatter, the Hybrid LT Jackets boast ballistic-grade Cordura in the shoulders and elbows, and removable armor throughout. Add in Gerbing’s patented Microwire Heat Technology and you’ll get that soothing blanket of warmth Gerbing’s is known for. Yet what makes these jackets even more special are their Hybrid capabilities. Paired to Gerbing’s optional 12V FlexPack Battery (which fits in its own pocket), the LT Jackets can deliver heat both on and off the bike. You can plug into the bike, as with any Gerbing’s motorcycle product. Or step off the bike and the power of the FlexPack takes over. Controlled by a 3-position remote control it can deliver up to 3 hours of heat. Get back on the bike, plug in, and the FlexPack charges up from the bike’s electrical system while you ride. Or if you want, ride wirelessly and just power the jacket from the FlexPack. On-bike heat, off-bike heat, with on-bike recharging and wireless remote control. And they look great, too. The new Gerbing’s Hybrid LT Jackets and FlexPack Battery Kit. Now you can have it all. Gerbing’s Men’s or Women’s Hybrid LT Jackets, MSRP $299.95. 12V/8Ah FlexPack Battery, Wall Charger, and Remote Control, $189.95. (available approx. early 2011).

HELMETLOK • A NEW TWIST ON THE CARABINER The HelmetLok is a carabiner with a twist...it LOCKS. It’ll secure your helmet anywhere on the bike, and gives you peace of mind when you’re exploring on foot. Unlike a typical carabiner where the latch opens inward and restricts the size of the opening, the HelmetLok latch opens OUTWARD. This allows it to fit around handlebars, frame tubes, or other parts of your motorcycle measuring up to 1-1/8” diameter. The latching lever contains a programmable 3-pin combination lock which you can change anytime. HelmetLok eliminates the need to mount a permanent lock on the bike, or keep track of a key. If there’s a place to hook the carabiner, there’s always a place to lock your helmet. HelmetLok performs these tasks: Locks your helmet to the motorcycle. Serves as a belt hook for keys or other gear. Serves as a general purpose camping carabiner. Secures loads to your bike when used with tie downs. Secures jackets and other gear when used with a cable. Other uses, limited only by your imagination. Single price $25, 2 for $45, 3 for $60. Distributed by BestRest Products 425-673-1023 www.HelmetLok.US

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

Recipe for Mayhem The El Centro Motorcycle Crash As many of you know this has been a very bad year for we riders. Large group crashes and accidents have repeatedly made the headlines around the country The latest one happened on Saturday November 13th, 2010 outside El Centro, California – just north of the Mexican border and east of San Diego. Back in the northeast a group of riders met that Sunday for a ride and the El Centro crash was a major topic. The crash occurred when a group of 21 motorcyclists from the San Diego County-based Saddletramps Motorcycle Club were traveling east on Highway 98. A gold Honda Civic with California plates attempted to pass the entire group by pulling into the westbound lane, the CHP said. Carlos Ramirez Bobadilla, who was driving a Dodge Avenger westbound, tried to swerve to the right shoulder to avoid the oncoming Civic and overcompensated by swerving left. He lost control and slammed head-on into at least six motorcyclists, according to officials. Bobadilla, whose wife was killed in the accident, was released when a blood alcohol test showed he was not under the influence, said Officer Pablo Torrez, a spokesman for the CHP in El Centro. Four motorcycle riders were killed. Five others were airlifted or taken by ambulance to UC San Diego Medical Center or El Centro Regional Medical Center, according to the CHP. The Civic was estimated to be traveling 90 to 100 miles per hour when it tried to pass the entire group of motorcycles, according to the CHP. The Civic fled the scene after the accident. Although, it seems clear to us that this entire evil scenario was precipitated by the driver of the Civic when he went to pass a large, slower moving group of bikers there is a lot that goes into these split second life changing events. Please, don’t think I am taking any sides here, but when trying to look at this disaster from a practical point of view we have to try to learn - all of us as riders - what, where and how things went so wrong so fast? First off there were the riders themselves. These folks were just out for a celebratory 10th anniversary ride. I don’t think that it would too far of a stretch to say they were riding at the speed limit or a bit below. If they were like many groups we have encountered they would have left little if any room for a passing car to navigate through them. Then you have the driver of the Honda Civic that was obviously in a hurry and might have been behind this group for miles and losing patience. No excuse for dangerous stupidity. Are these the facts? I don’t know – I wasn’t there; but I have seen enough large riding groups and dopey car drivers to feel pretty confident in this call. So, the driver of the Civic makes a stupid and fateful decision and tries to pass the entire group – 21 riders - in one shot at 90+ miles per hour. The poor couple heading in the other direction, at the posted speed, suddenly has a Japanese rocket hurling at them at well more of a combined speed of 150 miles per hour. In an attempt to avoid the Civic he rides onto the sandy shoulder, loses control of his Dodge Avenger and spins out of control into the path of the motorcyclists simply out for a ride. All this took place in a few seconds. Four riders and the passenger of the car dead; others severely injured. Lives changed forever.

How can we learn from this? What could the Saddletramps have done that might have saved them so much pain? Well, we all ride in large groups on occasion and must assume a certain amount of responsibility for our actions. Fighter pilots call this “Situational Awareness;” and it comes into play here. I know that with the motorcyclists we ride with on a regular basis when a car is trying to pass we are usually aware it is there and what it’s trying to do. We try to use our mirrors every few seconds – not minutes. The radios help a great deal here and it’s always a good idea for riders in the rear to let riders up ahead know there is an automobile or even another rider trying to get by. Unfortunately many riding groups rarely look in the mirrors and refuse to let anyone pass their group even if they are aware that they are there. Pick any day and road at Americade and I’ll rest my case. Still when we have had the occasional car, or rider for that matter, go to pass us we don’t feel threatened by moving to the right. It’s always fine with us. Now if there is suddenly oncoming traffic, as in the El Centro accident, then you have to give way and make room for the car to get back in the lane; even if it means slowing down, speeding up or simply finding a way to give them room to re-enter the lane safely. You might not like it or them, but you have a responsibility for everyone around you whether they are idiots or not. Don’t let your group ride with blinders on. Everyone is responsible to see and take in as much information as possible. Learn to share the road, even if the people you are sharing it with make you want to scream!

JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

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JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

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BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011

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JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

A Tale of Two Rallies d n a n o i n a lly u e R R y o W b w M o B C s e e v k r a u L e C nger h T i F e th

Vermont Bound

or many years now a few of us here at Backroads have been befuddled that so many riders, especially riders of a certain Germanic ride, insist on camping. These Teutonic bikes are not cheap; and to play with them you must Bring Much Wapum! Get it? A number of years ago the K1200LT internet group came up with the idea of holding an annual rally at various places around the country each summer. Planned for the week leading into Labor Day, what is called the Curve Cowboy Reunion has had a steadily growing crowd of riders who come from around the nation to enjoy the various higher-end resorts chosen by the group each year. Shira and I jaunted down to just north of Atlanta a few years back and had a wonderful time with the region, the hotel and especially the riders who attend the CCR. This year’s CCR was to be held in Killington, Vermont at the very nice Killington Grand Resort Hotel. Being somewhat in our area we signed on immediately. But, things don’t always go as planned. While at our 15th Anniversary Rally in Fontana, Shira got an email from our friend Sarah who works for Shuberth helmets outside of Berlin. A new helmet aimed squarely at women riders was being released and Shira was invited to see the new helmet, tour the plant and generally enjoy this part of Germany. She flew off on a Sunday and I hopped on the GS the following day and began a very circuitous trek north towards the Granite State; the plan being to meet up at week’s end in Watkins Glen at the Finger Lakes Rally. Odd to ride solo after all these years. Not a good odd either. My ride brought me along Orange county, New York and then over the Hudson where I turned north and east. Plotting out the ride on the Garmin I tried to hit roads I had missed in the past and had a stupendous day in the perfect late summer weather. Macedonia State Park, on the Connecticut border with New York, was a particular treat. So were the miles of gravel roads there. Along Route 7, near Lime Rock, I found a deli, sandwich and a bench for a late lunch and then onward through Massachusetts and along some tiny twisty roads ending up near Savoy and the Mohawk Trail. I was now back in familiar grounds and made a run for the Gray Ghost Inn as the sun was quickly setting. Unfortunately our friends Magnus, Carina and the gals were gone and the place locked. Ooops – didn’t somebody say to call? Oh, yeah – that would have been Shira during a mid-day international call. How I got that I’ll never know. Continuing north on Route 100 in the gathering gloom I switched on the Hornet Deer Alert – hoping this electronic rabbit’s foot really does work. I grabbed a quick bite in Ludlow and found a convenient car to follow up towards Killington, thinking it a deer blocker. I was a day early but the fellow at the desk easily rearranged my reservation and soon I was unloading the bike. Right about then a gentleman walked up and then another.

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011

51 “Welcome!” “Uh, hello,” I replied. I had forgotten how friendly the CCR folks were. They even helped me with my luggage.

By this time it was way past ten and the History Channel was looking good, so after 400 miles or so I called it a day. As dark as it was the previous night I was just not ready for the burst of sunshine that hit me early the next day when I pulled back the darkened curtains. I felt like a vampire about to explode. It was glorious outside. I took my time and ambled down to pick up my Curve Cowboy package and then found a coffee and planned my day. I have a wonderful Aunt and Uncle who live not far from Killington so plans were made to do lunch; but with a few hours to kill I went in search of a little Mysterious America. What, you kids think this stuff just happens? Just outside Cavendish I found what I was looking for, as per O’Life’s detailed instructions and the Curious Case of Phineas Gage is a must read. So much so that it made it into our Best of category for 2010.

Lunch with Aunt Fran and Uncle Jim was as great as it gets. We spent some time at their home as well looking at old pictures, although I did back off watching an old film to video of a precocious 5-year old bathtub moment. Even I couldn’t bear to see something like that 47 years later. Back on the bike I found a great new covered bridge over the Black River and some miles of well-groomed gravel to give my GS the daily dose of dust. By the time I got back to the hotel the lot had filled considerably, mostly with K1200LTs, but there was a smattering of other marques as well. All were welcome.

I almost immediately ran into my friend Jay Slomka. He and his wife had originally convinced us to attend our first CCR a few years back and it was good to see a familiar face. This time around there were riders from Oregon, Alaska, Texas and even two fellows from Finland – giving the CCR an international flare. By this time it was fairly late in the afternoon and with a good night call from Shira ended (it was near midnight in Berlin) I did another stroll around the great resort. On one side of the parking lot a small cadre of CCRers were circled around one silver LT with a man underneath the rear removing the final drive that

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JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

had failed – things happen; not unusual at a large gathering. But, what was unusual was the amount of support this fellow was getting to the point of somebody who had towed their ride in actually having a spare rear drive which was offered up till it could be returned. Camaraderie like this goes beyond the usual two-wheel gatherings. He was back on the road the next day. So was I. I had been reading a book on the history of New York and a great deal was made of the city the North River (just becoming to be called the Hudson) and the battles between the Patriots and the British. Many folks, when thinking about Revolutionary battles in Vermont, think of Bennington and the fine memorial they have there. But that battle actually took place in Hossick, New York, the only true battle in the War of Independence, that was fought on Vermont soil, was at Hubbardton. General Burgoyne’s defeat

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Here, just a year after the signing of the Declaration of Independence, the Green Mountain Boys, led by Seth Warner, slowed the advance of the Redcoats giving their main force time to retreat. The British then went to Saratoga where history was written. But, it would have been written differently if not for the Green Mountain boys and their stand on these rolling hills. After taking in a Curve Cowboy seminar on GPS software I hopped on the GS and headed to the battlefield at Hubbardton. The place, so beautiful now, was quiet and serene – unlike the way it must have been on that July day in 1777. After a bit of history lesson I found more of Vermont’s great gravelly farm roads, cutting through the very New England town of Brandon (Backroads had a rally there, remember?) and over the gap on Route 73. Landing back on 100 I turned north to Rochester as the famed café was calling and she had a Maple Walnut Ice Cream soda awaitin’. Fully sugared I rolled east and over the Rochester Gap and then down along the river towards trendy Woodstock – and trended right through. Bearing left at Route 100A I took a quick visit at president Calvin Coolidge’s

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home. It was here that then vice-president Coolidge was informed of President Harding’s death and was actually sworn in by his father – who was the local notary public. To my knowledge this was the only time a president took the oath from his dad. A short ride north brought me back to Killington and the CCR. By this time I had reacquainted myself with some riders I knew and made friends with some Cowboys I didn’t. Pizza dinner was more than fun and the travel stories at the resort’s bar were just as entertaining. My thought for this week was to take off towards Watkins Glen to meet Shira and attend the yearly gathering at the Finger Lakes Rally, but I didn’t need to be there until Friday and the Curve Cowboy Silent Auction was to begin on Thursday. This group does an incredible job of raising money for small local charities wherever they hold their event. They’ve raised nearly $150,000 since they began and all of it going to grass roots organizations that truly could use the help. Once the CCR actually doubled a tiny charity’s budget with one check. I said these were good folk. That being the case I went down to see what was up for bidding. Before Shira left she kind of hinted at a limit – which I was totally ready to ignore.

Onward to the Finger Lakes As much fun as the CCR can be I did have other plans that would be unfolding some 300 or so miles to the west. Just around midmorning I packed up and started on my way towards the picturesque Finger Lakes region of New York and the Finger Lakes BMW Rally. Held just outside Watkins Glen this rally has long been a favorite of ours at Backroads and we attend as often as we can. My route brought me south on Route 100 and then west across Vermont where I crossed into New York State near Salem.

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Keeping with the historic nature of the week I paused near Fort Hardy where British General Burgoyne’s troops actually laid down their arms after the famous battle of Saratoga and then made a slight detour to take in the actual battlefield itself – which is a place of such historical significance that it deserves its own story. Swinging back onto my pre-planned ride I made one last detour to see the obelisk monument in Saratoga dedicated to the first major battle won by our forefathers. My ride clipped the very southern part of the Adirondacks and then sped down into the Leatherstocking region of New York before heading south towards Utica on a simply phenomenal piece of roadway designated 26. It was here that I ran into the kid with the sport bike. I was tooling along, at a good clip, when I was suddenly blown past by a kid on a sport bike. With nothing else to do and miles still to go I dropped it a gear and took chase. I was good with him in the turns but he crushed me on the straights. After a few miles of this tomfoolery we came upon a construction zone and we both had to stop. It was then I realized the bike was a new BMW S1000RR – probably the hottest new sportbike on the planet. I said to the kid that if I was going to get trounced, it should at least be by another BMW. With that he flipped up his helmet and I looked into the face of a guy with at least 10 years on me, with the biggest shit grin I had seen in a while. The construction guys signaled us forward and this very fast middle-aged guy was way gone. Just too funny! By this time it was getting quite late and once again I found myself in a race with the revolution of the planet. Heading on Route 79 towards Seneca Lake the band Renaissance came on with the song “Driving Hard” – which was apropos at the time. As the sun dropped over the far western edge of the long lake, Annie Haslam’s golden voice sang the last words of the song - “Reaching out for shadows passing through. See the dark around is coming down on you.” I thought I heard Notso Happy complain from my tank bag – “She got that right, you Bozo!”

JANUARY 2011 • BACKROADS

town and with another hot day on tap I rode up to the rally, paid my bucks and walked around the grounds. Just a few tents were up at this point but by the evening that would change and a tent city would appear.

Seneca Lodge is one of our favorite hideaways and we always stay here when at this rally, as it is just down the road from the site itself. I was just there for minutes when I started running into people I knew, sort of like coming home.

Around this time I got a call that Shira had landed and arrived back home. The next day she would ride up and meet me. It would be good to have her with me again. Like Maddie & David, Beanie & Cecil or Ren & Stimpie – Brian sounds better when it’s followed by ‘& Shira’. Now in its 36th year the Finger Lakes BMW Rally is found just outside of the

As usual the rally had a few vendors selling gear, gadgets and parts both new and used and great deals were to be found, including our friend Nick Pleznick (not a Klingon) and the folks from No-Mar Tire changers, who were swapping tires on and off rider’s bikes. I ran into some friends and while chatting up bikes the cell phone rang and it was Shira would thought she’d be up by around 1ish. After lunch in town I rode back to Seneca Lodge and at 1pm on the dot herself rode into the lot. For those of you who might have never ridden in the Finger Lakes region it is one of the most stunning areas to explore, but you need to know where to look. The terrain has many waterfalls and gorges and we planned on showing some

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011

Spring Break 2011 • May 19 - 22, 2011 Join Backroads for our 13th Annual Spring Break Rally. This time around we’ll be riding to Canandaigua, New York - atop the stunning Finger Lakes of the Empire State. Our base camp will be the beautiful Inn on the Lake • www.theinnonthelake.com. The Inn on the Lake itself has everything we would need and we promise you a great time. Here you’ll find the riding easy and nature is splendid as the entire Finger Lakes are simply gorge-ous! Robert Treman, Taughannock, Watkins Glen and Letchworth Parks are all within an easy day’s ride and not to forget the dozens of wineries and restaurants that sprinkle the region. Make your reservations now as rooms are VERY limited and they will go fast. You must call 800-228-2801 and ask for the Backroads Motorcycle Tourmagazine Rally for special rates and room options. Cut-off is April 1, 2011 and we ain’t fooling! There are other lodging options in the area if the Inn is booked. Please check: www.canandaiguachamber.com

High Alpine Tour with Backroads and Edelweiss

July 17-24, 2011 • If Not Now - WHEN? Head off with Backroads’ publishers Brian & Shira for a tour of a lifetime as we join up with Edelweiss for their High Alpine Tour. Ride the roads you have dreamed of in the past - Paso Del Stelvio, the Grossglockner, the famed Dolomites. We’ll even have a day’s ride to Venice.

When: July 17 -24, 2011 In addition to this great tour, Edelweiss offers their Alps Riding Training. For those who have never ridden the Alps, it is highly recommended. For those who have, you can always learn more. You must arrive at least one day earlier to take this course. Check website for pricing and services.

For more information email Doris:

doris.waldegger@edelweissbike.com or call us at 973-948-4176.

Ride the Alps, if not now, when?

BACKROADS • JANUARY 2011 friends a number of them. In the morning we took a quick ride up to the rally and the sun and heat that had dominated this trip so far was replaced with ominous dark clouds and far cooler temperatures. Up at the site the rains came in but that didn’t stop us and friends John and Lynn from going for a ride. Our first destination was a great Corn Maze Shira wanted to do a story on so we followed her GPS route which, as usually, brought us along miles of gravel and clay roads that started to get bit slippery with each drop. The Maze was pretty neat but by now it was lunch time and we were to meet more friends at Wagners on Seneca Lake so that’s where we headed. After lunch John and Lynn stayed for some beer tasting and we swapped those friends for our other transplanted New Englanders Rich and Dee Dee Ford, whom we had just traveled in Kentucky with a few weeks back. They had never been to the Finger Lakes and, although avid wine connoisseurs, they followed our lead that afternoon and we were happy to show them some of the natural beauty that abounds in the region.

56 Our first stop was Taughannock, which is Algonquin for “in the trees.” The highest free flowing waterfall in the northeast, Taughannock tumbles 215 feet down and is one of the most stunning falls on the planet. We had one other gem to show the Fords and we spun around Ithaca and up the twisty Route 327 to the top of Robert Treman Park. This glen is a long-time favorite of ours and we never miss a chance to show it off to anyone who has not had the wonderful opportunity to see it before. The park is named after an Ithaca philanthropist who donated this wonderful piece of planet Earth to New York state back in 1920. The park has a long gorge that runs for a few miles with trails and bridges that actually allow you to walk along its entire length. When riding in the Finger Lakes you must make Treman Park a priority. The day was a combination of blue skies and spotty rains, but still it had cooled off greatly and we wouldn’t have traded it for the oppressive heat that had been a nasty companion to us all the previous days of riding. Heading back to the Lodge we decided to park the bikes for the day, open some local wine and enjoy the rest of the afternoon. Heading back to the rally site for the evening festivities, which included the rally numbers, witticisms and prizes, we said our goodbyes as we would be heading out the next morning. As we rode away from the campgrounds the sound of reveling ralliers faded behind us as we brought a close to the official summer season. I was pleased to have included two Labor Day staples in my repertoire this year, each with very different trappings but the common denominator of comraderie, tire-kicking and riding.