January 2016

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W H A T ’ S

I N S I D E

MO NT HLY C O L U M NS FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................3

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................4 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................5 ON THE MARK ....................................................6 BACKLASH..........................................................7 INDUSTRY INFOBITES.......................................9

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Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

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Larry Barasch, Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Dr. Seymour O’Life

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2016. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2016

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJeN

Go To Road A number of years back my colleague Mark Byers penned a missive on “stealing rides.” Since then I have actively engaged in doing just that whenever I can muster the time to sneak away from the desk, computer and Backroads Central – even if just for an hour or so. I think most of us do the same thing whenever the opportunity arises. I was doing just that the other day. This past autumn we had a BMW R1200RS for evaluation and the fact that such a fine riding machine was just sitting there idly, when a full on Indian summer had enveloped the region, was hard to ignore. It was mid-afternoon by the time I finished what needed to get done. Knowing that the critters that live in the forests would be on the move come sunset, just a short couple of hours away this time of the year, I would have to make my time and miles count. I have a couple “Go To Roads” - I am sure we all do. These Go To Roads would be reasonable long, yet not all day rides, that you have pre-planned and set in your mind when you go out for a quick blast. You know what I mean, right? This route is a good jaunt on the motorcycle, not too far from your home that has just enough of what you are looking for in a ride to allow you to have at it and to put the machine away an hour or two later fulfilled, satisfied and happy.

Page 3 Now I know that there are some of us who live in more urban and sequestered parts of the northeast, but when I began riding back in the 70s, in Queens, New York, we had certain routes that we would ride just to get out and stretch the cables a bit. Okay, maybe NYC is a disaster these days, but 40 years ago it wasn’t nearly as crowded as it is today and a quick run on the Grand Central towards Whitestone, on a light traffic day, was better than nothing. That sweeping left hand vector past Shea Stadium (God bless its memory) could be had at a good quick pace most times. These days a little forethought and planning has us living along one of the prime riding roads in New Jersey, and that being the case, with most of the other local roads rated fairly high as well (on the Backroads Road Scale) I have a few options, but many times I simply head to my Go To Road. For me that usually will bring me north for a few miles and then west over the Kittatinny ridges. Some call it a mountain, but the Lenape natives called it Kitahtëne, from which we get the present name, and in the Lenape language it meant Endless Hill – as this ridge stretches from New Jersey all the way up into New York – where it is called the Shawangunks and ends near Kingston. Although there are few truly empty spaces left in the Garden Sate this part, and road that runs through the Walpack Valley, is one of them. Claimed by the Federal government for the failed Tocks Island Dam Project in the 1960s, it has remained virtually untouched for decades. You’ll find, along its miles, hills, forests, ravines, waterfalls, an observatory (it gets really dark here), twists, turns, and elevation and surfaces changes from fine pavement to gravel to trail. There is even a ghost town. There have been all sorts of wildlife spotted here too. Deer are always around, but we have seen bear, bobcat, a variety of snakes, raccoons and even a cougar – and not some hot predatory 50 year old either. Page 6


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JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HeALD

Time foR a RebooT “Hey Johnny: What are you rebelling against?” “Whaddaya got?”

-The Wild One

First things first: for those of you that may think from the title of this column I’m going to write about the state of riding boot technology because I need new footwear, you are mistaken. No, this is a column about motorcycles and popular culture, or perhaps the other way around. As it’s the start of a new year, I have decided to address a situation that has been bothering me for some time, and why I have changed my strategy in dealing with same. The phenomenon is the odious habit of remaking old works of popular culture rather than coming up with something fresh. This has been especially heinous in the motion picture arena, for if you look at movie releases from 2015 you see names like Mad Max, Star Wars, The Terminator, Mission Impossible, Spectre (i.e. James Bond) etc. etc. Good God man, they’re all reboots! We’re talking about storylines and characters that were created in the eighties, seventies and even the sixties. I mean some of these new films are OK as far as it goes, but where’s the originality? Where are the all-new heroes, original plots, and new ways of seeing things? I know, who cares? People are still going to the theaters to see them, so they must be doing something right. Right? So instead of criticizing and curs-

ing the darkness, by golly, I’m signing up! I am embracing this amazing fashion of milking the crap out of a cash cow and putting my boot on the ol’ kick starter and, well, rebooting. We motorcyclists need to have our very own redo of a film from the past to bring all the latest computer graphics, poorly written stories and lavish product placement deals to our own neck of the woods. And the film I want to reboot? Why, The Wild One of course! Still one of my favorite motorcycle movies, this black and white classic from 1954 is a perfect choice for 2016. Will it be hard to bring this motoclassic up to date? Well, look at it this way: we have more examples of how to upgrade a movie from the past than you can shake a dipstick at. Based on my careful viewing of some of the biggest reboots (including 2015 films but not forgetting decades of examples), I think I have the hang of this stuff, so please allow me to address a few key points. Pretend for a minute we’re all at a meeting at a small California town (or somewhere in rural NJ if you like), at a diner/bar we might choose as a location for our film. We’re all producers at this point, with funding from Kickstarter (how perfect is that? That web venture was clearly designed to raise cash for motorcycle movie reboots). In classic filmmaking style, I’ll be the modern mogul in charge, make all the creative choices (especially the really bad ones) and you guys just nod in approval and say things like “Brilliant!” “Inspired!” and “Hell Yeah, BH!” First, we need actors to fill the lead roles, in this case modern equivalents of the original stars including Marlin Brando, Lee Marvin and Mary Murphy. Interesting note: many at the time thought Brando and Marvin were too old to play their roles. Rubbish. They were perfect choices, for being a wandering punk is truly an ageless occupation. For our movie, Brando’s Johnny would be played by Keanu Reeves, who can not only ride but master the difficult blend of rebelliousness and complete lack of intelligence that the role demands. Lee Marvin’s legendary Chino must be played by Josh Brolin. Trust me: he’s perfect. See Men in Black 3 to see how he can capture a role created by another actor. Or, if these blokes aren’t available to fulfill their duties we can just get Will Ferrell and Johnny C. Reilly to play the two male leads, and they can pick who will play which role themselves. And the Mary Murphy role? Natalie Portman, of course. See her in Thor? She could play Kathie Bleeker with one hand tied behind her back. As a backup, Tina Fey. Why not? She’s a mountain of talent. Lights up the screen, much like Natalie. Now, motorcycles. We should stick to the original brands, shouldn’t we? Conventional thinking would put Johnny on his Triumph, and Chino on his Harley. Well, let’s examine this. It’s come to my attention that brands, even when stipulated by the creator of the work being portrayed on screen, should be ignored in lieu of financial arrangements. Here’s a perfect example: Ian Fleming mentioned in several of his spy thrillers that James Bond wore a Rolex wristwatch. This became as iconic as his Walther PPK handgun, and naturally you’d think that’s what he would always wear, reboot after reboot. But when Pierce Brosnan assumed the role in the mid 1990s, somehow Omega became the new “Bond watch.” Based on my meticulous research(?!), money changed hands you see, and to this day Omega has a deal with the producers that involves merchandising, cross-promotion and, allegedly, buckets of money. So, Bond’s watch is an Omega, even though the only time the word appeared in Bond novels was as the code name of a Spectre plot to wreak havoc with stolen nuclear weapons. So I’m all for putting Keanu on a Triumph and Josh on a Harley if, well, the price is right. If not, are you listening Ducati? Kawasaki? Victory? Brammo? Hey, do you have a motorcycle you want to put on screen? Have something you want to grease my palm with, or, to put it more concisely, Whattaya Got? Hey, I’m willing to go Vespa if the compensation is impressive enough. Might add a whole new dimension to the plot, and to the term “scooter trash.” With reboots, all these pesky details really don’t matter as long as the basics are in place. The Wild One requires a sleepy little town, some bikies out for some antics, one very old cop, and lots of funky Jazz Noir on the jukebox. Or MP3 player, maybe? And naturally, we’ll have to go 3-D. Or, is 4-D ready yet? Now, to work on the catering. . .


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2016

WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL

PassinG fancy Sometimes in these pages we become redundant. Example: ATGATT – all the gear, all the time. But we do not preach about which we do not know. I have put my gear to the test more times than I like to think about, and have (touch wood) not suffered anything worse than a bad bruise or strained muscle. I have a Nolan helmet that slid down a Romanian road, without which I would not be the gorgeous creature I am today. (oh, come on, Shira…) I see riders traveling down the road in t-shirts, half-helmets and sneakers and I can only shake my head and hope they never know the pain of a medicinal scrub and broken bones, or worse. Today I am here to, once again, speak about a standard fixture on all motorcycles, street-legal at least, which are sorely underused by many riders. They stick out enough to be seen, are adjustable for individual purpose and can very seriously change the course of your riding day. The mirror. We just enjoyed a great week of riding in the Dominican Republic with Robert and Alida of MotoCaribe (www.motocaribe.com). Sunny and warm, nice riding companions and interesting roads. In the briefing, Robert made it very clear, emphasizing constantly, that it was imperative we use our mirrors ALWAYS. As he said, he lives in his mirrors while riding, especially in the larger villages. As he put it, there is a structured chaos to their traffic pattern, which we would come to understand. On our first day out, I thought it

Page 5 very similar to the battle for space one might find in New York, but without the lanes and less space cushioning. With each passing day, I saw that the two and four-wheeled vehicles had a special relationship, almost a Twyla Tharp ballet of metal and rubber. But most assuredly, if you did not pay attention to those around you, actually right beside you, the dance would be over very abruptly. While traveling the open roads, I tended to keep to the right third of my lane, simply because, no matter how many times I checked behind me, there was always a chance of that passing scooter, moped, 125cc or flying car sneaking up on me. Brian and I had a slight advantage, as whoever was behind would let the other know of the upcoming vehicle. This may sound more ominous than intended, as we certainly were able to enjoy the riding and scenery, only with a little more attention to local traffic. Back to riding in the US of A: We’ve all been there, trapped behind a group of riders out for a leisurely putt on a pleasant Sunday. It may seem okay while on the straight and narrow, but once the pavement becomes deliciously serpentine, your throttle hand begins to itch, your tires long to lean and your patience becomes short. Unfortunately, whether two or twenty, none of the riders in front of you seem to realize that they have this standard equipment attached to their handlebars. You try to move to the left a tad, perhaps even give them a friendly ‘toot’ of the horn, but they are steadfast in keepin’ keeping on. What to do? Wait and Pass with Prudence – at some point, the road will straighten out again and, hopefully, these riders aren’t right on top of each other and there will be enough room for you to politely and safely pass them. Best case scenario is that once the first bike is passed, the other may realize you are there and move over a bit to allow you to continue on your way, at your preferred rate of velocity. Page 6


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JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

ON THE MARK MARK BYeRS

need To be “Took a look down a westbound road, right away I made my choice. Headed out to my big two-wheeler; I was tired of my own voice. Took a bead on the northern plains and just rolled that power on…” Bob Seger, “Roll Me Away” To me, the saddest words ever to preface a phrase are “I need to be in…” Behind them, insert a destination, not of choice, but of obligation, perhaps even of desperation. Couple them with a phrase relating to time, and you’ve got the saddest sentence in the language. Preface them with “I’d love to, but…” and you’ve got a sentence so joyless, it’s practically an epitaph. Imagine this inscribed in immortal granite six feet above your mortal remains: “I’d love to go to Ireland, but I need to be in Omaha next week.” See what I mean? And so it goes: we all have monsters to feed. Frost said he had promises to keep and so do we. We’ve got debts of money and time, escrows of obligation, and paying them requires the sweat of our brows or of our brains, maybe both. We toil a third of our day and we sleep a third, so it’s what we do with the other third that really matters. Some fill the other third with “I need to be’s” as if topping off some cosmic gas tank, lest there be a need embargo. But there’s what our head needs versus what our souls need. I don’t remember the last time I looked at the Western horizon and just

rolled that power on like Motor City Bob. I’ve never been in a bar 12 hours out of Mackinaw City. Like Bob, I stood on a mountaintop staring out at the Great Divide, but I had a “need to be” back in Missoula by nightfall, so my time was limited. On a high road in the Bitterroot Mountains near Chief Joseph Pass, I came to a fork in the road: left to responsibility and right to irresponsibility. I took the left because I had a “need to be” in Missoula again, but oh how my soul wanted to turn right, just keep going, and damn the consequences. I was thinking of that trip one day when I seized upon an idea – I hesitate to outline it too deeply because the beauty is that it exists only in concept and not in concrete detail. I’ve heard it said that death is in the details…and that’s right. Details tie you down. Details give you “need to be’s,” so the solution is one of pure, pleasurable anarchy. In homage to Erica Jong, I’ll call it “The Planless Ride.” I smile just thinking of it. Some Saturday this spring, when the warm breezes blow, stirring little dust-devils of yellow pollen in their wake, I’m going to ride. It won’t be a “need to be,” it’ll be a “just go.” I’ll wake up one morning and put on my riding clothes, tuck my wallet in my jacket, and…just go. I won’t have a destination other than a compass point, probably West or Southwest, but North or East aren’t out of the question. I won’t have a reservation, and therefore, no “need to be’s.” It’ll just be me and a bike and a highway and a direction. Like Forrest Gump, when I want to drink, I’ll drink. When I want to eat, I’ll eat. And when I want to…you know…I’ll go. Most importantly, though, I’ll shed the shackles of schedule and the irons of obligation. I’ll have no one to please but me and nothing to do but revel in the beauty of the bike and the road and the sweet smell of whatever spring brings as I dice through the foothill woods. I won’t be governed by destination, but rather by divination. I’ll hold the bars gently, like a witching stick, and where they tug, I’ll go. I may ride five hundred miles, but most likely, it’ll be less: happenstance doesn’t lend itself to making time. This ride is way too important for goals. Eventually, time will collect its toll and the sky will darken. I’ll look for a mom and pop motel near a diner, or ask someone in a nameless town where I can lay my head. All it has to be is clean, I’ll say. And as the sun paints the Western sky red and gold, the air turns cold, and the night birds begin to sing, I’ll be content because wherever I am at that moment is right where I need to be. fRee Wheelin’

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It is said that the legendary Big Redeye, the Jersey Big Foot, has been spotted – but not by us… as of. For me to do the 50 or so mile loop takes me an hour and a bit, and sometimes I can roll out of the office and be back before the cats even realize I am gone - making it an almost perfect Go To Road. How about you? Do you have a Go To Road? I am sure you do and I’d love to hear about it. Send your thoughts to brian@backrodsusa.com. WhaTchaThinkin’

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Pull over – if you are on a road like the Blue Ridge Parkway, with tons of scenic overlooks, take advantage of one of them and enjoy the view. Give the group some time to get a bit ahead of you so you can enjoy the road at your pace. Sure, you may end up catching them, but perhaps they will pull off or even learn how to use their mirrors by that time. To those of you who tend to ride with a pack, don’t be those people. Don’t think that you are so important that you need to hold up all those behind. It may be other riders; it may be a line of cars. If you tend to ride 10 miles below the speed limit, realize that there are others who do 10 miles over and – PLEASE – use your mirrors often to check who’s behind you. If you are riding by yourself, it’s not difficult to just pull to the right third of you lane and let them easily and safely go by. If you see a line of more than 3 vehicles behind you, it’s only courteous to let them go by. It’s also safer for you to have them pass, as you don’t know the extent of urgency or road rage that they may have. Mirrors – they are not options.


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2016

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BACKLASH Free Wheelin… Dead Cow and Persnickety Readers Brian, I was just reading your article ‘DAWN’ in November’s Backroads. You must be the most fortunate motorcyclist in the world to have seen a ‘murder of cows’ flying overhead. Lucky guy! Dick Roberts Brian, Ok we all make a few typos once in a while but. . . . “a murder of COWS flying west over the water?” Love the mag....Keep it up. Charlie Van Nostrand Backroads, Thanks for the chuckle a missing letter in your Free Wheelin’ gave my wife and I. I have been hit by bombardments from birds above before, but I would hate to be riding below the murder of cows that you spoke of seeing on your ride! Bob Laford • Petersham, MA

On the other hand… Hey Rathjen, Very nice piece of writing in your November Free Wheelin’ column. Robert Pellecchia Brian, While reading your Free Wheelin “Dawn Patrol” in the November issue I became inspired to finally get a decent camera and take some of these kinds of pics. I can never put the colorful words describing the shots together quite like you though. Then again you have been doing this a tad longer than I

Letters to the Editor have. Now if I can just win lotto so I can tie a whole bunch of your Great All American Diner runs together with some of Shira’s Ice Cream Runs I’d be a really happy man! As always thanks to you guys for the “Best damn motorcycle magazine around” Joe Blazky Robert and Joe, THANK YOU. Somebody understands. I have been taking flak for dropping an ‘R’ from Crow in this piece, making it a Murder of Cows ....mooo! You have redeemed my faith in the readers. Top Five Reasons for the Cow Shit? #5 -Typos, like shit, happens. #4 - Missing R stolen by pirates from City Bike Magazine in San Francisco #3 - Spell checker likes “cows” better. #2 – Bovine Lives Matter #1 - What do you know? (See photo)

The Guy Brian Boy can I relate to that story….. I feel your pain man. I really enjoy riding and don’t enjoy riding to the same spot every weekend so I plan most rides with likeminded riders in my area…so that puts me in the position to organize the ride, post emails- start- stop -where and when, plot rides, scheduled fuel and food stops. Even though I email the GPX files to riders with Zumos no one downloads them so I have to lead. I spend my day staring at a 6 inch screen and following a purple line and constantly looking in my rear view mirrors to make sure I don’t lose anyone. This week really pushed me over the top to stop organizing rides. I have a guy that wants to meet up and ride out to the breakfast meeting spot, he’s always late and makes me late and the group late…I have to text him “are you


Page 8 up” I have others that when I tell them we all need to fuel up, they don’t… then they signal me in the middle of no where they have no fuel…I really don’t understand that. This weekend I felt like a baby sitter and the joy of riding was lost for me. I had “The Guy” that was a friend of a friend that rode with us, he would ride 6 inches from me to prove he was a “great rider” he wouldn’t hear anything that anyone has their own opinion. On a 600 mile ride the GPS hiccupped-locked and I made 2 wrong turns that whole day and this guy went ballistic and started yelling at me. Oh… I forgot to mention the same guy got in front of me a few times, now I have the directions in my GPS and he doesn’t, you figure that one out. I sent him a personal email and told him he was a great guy and he would help anyone of us if we broke down but I didn’t want him to come anymore. He said he was sorry and admitted he was an asshole and understood so I must have not been the first one. He actually straightened himself out and time to time we ride and for the most part he is fine now. Assholes actually know they are assholes but it sometimes take others in the group to remind them of bad riding manners. Your rides are tough to short out the crap heads because they are open to the public. You almost have to post rules and if they are not followed they are asked to leave the group, no questions asked. Then that takes away from the fun. Anyone who organizes rides shares your pain. Gary Rena

JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS Brian, Cracking good…. the subject -THE GUY. Somewhere in my Internet rants I wrote that merely possessing the keys to a motorcycle does not make a humanoid a good person. Once I accepted an unknown motorcycle key owner into my group of four, based on one of the four saying he was a “good rider,” a “good guy.” It was a mistake, costing one of the four their life, but that’s my opinion. I still lament my not saying “No” to the economics and feelings about The Guy. Dr. Gregory Frazier Yo Brian, Backroads came in the mail today. Read your column about “The Guy” about five minutes ago. Brilliant...perfect...and I hate you for writing it before I did! As a tour leader, I’ve certainly met my share. In fact, I recently realized that last year’s New Zealand tour was one of my best ever for two reasons: It hardly rained at all, and I somehow managed to have a group without a ‘guy’ in it. The worst part for me is that, unlike you as a tour client, as tour leader I can’t avoid The Guy. It becomes my job to ride herd on him, and in every way possible insulate my clients from him, which means I have to pretend to like him, and want to ride with him, eat with him, and listen to him talk endlessly. A great observation on your part. Nice work. Fred Rau


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2016

IN DU STRY INFOBITES VICTORY SALUTES VETERANS IN NYC PARADE Victory Motorcycles participated in the New York City Veterans Day Parade alongside their partner organization the Iraq Afghanistan Veterans Associations. Some IAVA Members rode Victory Motorcycles in the parade. Victory Motorcycles continues to support our troops as they have done for years, and the IAVA is an important organization recognizing the unique needs of our most recent veterans. For more information on the IAVA log on to http://iava.org/.

HARLEY-DAVIDSON EXTENDS OFFER OF FREE RIDING ACADEMY TRAINING TO ALL U.S. MILITARY Harley-Davidson has announced the extension of free Riding Academy motorcycle training to all current and former U.S. military. The program is now available to active-duty, retired, reservists and veterans Jan. 1-Dec. 31, 2016. To continue its salute to the military, Harley-Davidson Managing Director and former U.S. Army Officer, Christian Walters, escorted fellow veterans, including Dorsey Fyffe, a former U.S. Air Force Flight Engineer and Wounded Warrior Project Peer Mentor, to America’s Parade in New York City aboard a Bell 407 U.S. Army helicopter November 11. The original offer of free Harley-Davidson Riding Academy kicked-off prior to Armed Forces Day aboard the USS Yorktown aircraft carrier in

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News from the Inside Charleston, S.C., making it only fitting to take to the air to announce the free training extension. “One of our objectives is to grow the sport of motorcycling in the U.S.,” said Walters. “Thousands of members of the military have learned to ride through the program so far. We’re proud to extend this opportunity in 2016 so even more military personnel can enjoy the very freedom they protect.” All stateside military can take advantage of the offer by visiting a local Harley-Davidson dealer or going to h-d.com/AmericanHeroes. If Riding Academy is not available in a particular area, Harley-Davidson will reimburse the expense of attending a certified motorcycle safety program. Those currently deployed outside the U.S. also can submit the form by Dec. 31, 2016, and will receive a voucher for free motorcycle safety training, good through 2017 when they return home.

TIMONIUM MOTORCYCLE SHOW • FEBRUARY 12 – 14, 2016 The ‘Travel, Touring & Adventure Feature Area’ was a big hit last year and this year’s expanded version will again feature a premier group of world famous adventurists and touring experts like Lisa & Simon Thomas, Rene Cormier, Borden Family Adventure Trio, Steph Jeavons, Ayres Adventures, Edelweiss Bike Travel, Beach’s Motorcycle Adventures, Colin Busch and more. Presentations will be geared to cover regional and international tours for both amateur and expert travelers. Touring bikes, clothing, equipment and gear round out the Feature Area. New this year…the ‘Motorcycle Aftermarket Feature Area’…where two-wheel enthusiasts will be introduced to the latest products available for all makes of motorcycles by experts from


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JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

some of the industries’ top brands, like Kuryakyn, Performance Machine, Vance and Hines, RC, Sena, J & M and more. Bike fans can check out all the newest 2016 models from every foreign and domestic motorcycle manufacturer, plus the huge custom and antique bike show and hundreds of exhibits covering everything the motorcycling industry has to offer. Attendees can also enjoy Biker Fashion Shows, Tattoo Contest and the Regional Bikini Team Finals. The show will be held at the Maryland State Fairgrounds – Timonium, Maryland – Friday and Saturday, February 12th and 13th 10am – 9pm and Sunday, February 14th 10am – 6pm. For more information, go to www.cycleshow.net or call 410-561-7323.

SPECIALTY GROMS Recently spotted at the Tokyo Motor Show were a couple of concept Honda Groms. Who doesn’t love the Grom? Called simply Grom Scrambler Concept 1 & 2 these little retro-looking machines will just add to the already amazing and strong following these bikes have spawned since their introduction a few years back. These bikes follow the same sort of look and feel as the Ducati Scrambler – but we think Honda used this name way before Italy. Will Honda add these concepts to the actual line-up in 2016? We truly hope so!

MOA HEADQUARTERS MOVES TO NEW BMW OWNERS’ CAMPUS IN SOUTH CAROLINA The BMW Motorcycle Owners of America (BMW MOA) and the BMW Car Club of America (BMW CCA) in conjunction with the BMW Car Club of America Foundation are developing a new home for BMW Club members in Greer, South Carolina. The world’s largest single-marque clubs will relocate near the BMW Performance Center when construction is completed.

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The new facility will have separate office spaces for both the motorcycle and car clubs and will share common meeting rooms as well as indoor and outdoor areas for club activities. The property is currently anchored by the museum and archives of the BMW Car Club of America Foundation. The museum will eventually include BMW memorabilia under one roof from both the automobile and motorcycle archives. “This is a tremendous opportunity to build a special BMW-centric place,” said Bob Aldridge, Executive Director of the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America. “We are excited to partner with the BMW CCA and the CCA Foundation to make this a reality.” While the project is underway, the MOA will have temporary office space in downtown Greenville, South Carolina. The new facility is located adjacent to the BMW Performance Center where automobile and motorcycle enthusiasts receive on-road and off-road performance training. The move not only physically moves the two organizations into one facility; it also creates a great riding destination for BMW motorcycle owners. “The MOA will continue to be an autonomous organization with its own leadership and Board of Directors,” Aldridge says. “Other than having a new address at what is unquestionably the home of BMW enthusiasts in the US, MOA members should notice absolutely no change in how we operate.”

INAUGURAL FESTIVAL OF CLASSIC MOTORCYCLES TO TAKE PLACE IN NEW ENGLAND Thompson Speedway Motorsports Park, in Thompson, CT, is excited to be adding a new event to its schedule. The inaugural Thompson Vintage Motorcycle Classic will be held Sunday, May 15, 2016. The event will join the Historic Oval Invitational racing weekend, which features vintage racecars competing on Thompson’s 5/8-mile NASCAR oval. Thompson Speedway Motorsports Park will become a mecca of antique motorsports with historic racecars hitting the high-banks on Friday and Saturday (May 13-14). The


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two-wheeled fun will begin on Saturday afternoon, leading into a full schedule of classic motorcycle mania on Sunday, May 15. The Thompson Vintage Motorcycle Classic will include on-track activities with vintage motorcycles on the 1.7-mile road course. There will also be a massive Swap Meet Marketplace, Manufacturer’s Midway Vendor area, Antique Motorcycle Show and more! This exciting new event is a great way to kick off the riding season, and sure to become an instant favorite of motorcycle enthusiasts from across the Northeast. Tucked away in the beautiful countryside of Northeastern Connecticut, Thompson Speedway Motorsports Park (TSMP) is the home of a historic raceway, modern roadrace circuit, and a classic 18-hole golf course. Owned and operated by the Hoenig family for four generations, the property became a racetrack in 1939, thanks in part to the devastation left behind by the 1938 hurricane known as the “Long Island Express.”The historic 5/8-mile high banked oval hosts a number of annual NASCAR stock car and open wheel racing events, including the NASCAR Whelen Modified Tour and NASCAR Whelen All American Series. The new 1.7 mile road course is the rebirth of the first purpose-built closed-circuit road racing track in the United States.Just 50 minutes from downtown Boston, 2.5 hours from New York City, and 40 minutes from Hartford and Providence. www.thompsonspeedway.com

EARLY SUCCESS LEADS HEAR THE ROAD™ MOTORCYCLE TOURS TO EXPAND THEIR 2016 “BEST OF ITALY” TOUR OFFERINGS Hear the Road Motorcycle tours, www.motorcycletoursitaly.com announces their expanded 2016 Italian motorcycle tour calendar after a very successful 2015. Enrico Grassi, founder and owner of Hear the Road Tours says, “I couldn’t have been happier with our inaugural year of delivering first-class motorcycle tours of Italy.”

Tours for 2016 will include all those that were so popular in 2015, plus their first tour to the Alps and the Dolomites in northern Italy. This 12-day tour will excite motorcycle enthusiasts that have only dreamed about riding the notorious Stelvio, Gavia and Mortirolo mountain passes— touching the villages of Siena, Modena, Bormio and Ravenna along the way. The very popular Magical Italy, Ladies First Tour for women riders continues in 2016 with an additional tour date in the fall. All tours start and end in the fabulous city of Rome. Tours range from 5-10 riding days in an effort to suit everyone’s wish to ride the best scenic Italian roads and visit destinations like Amalfi Coast and southern Italy, Tuscany and the Chianti county, Sardinia, Corsica, Bologna and the Ducati factory, Assisi, Siena, Mugello and more. Hear the Road Tours also caters to those riding enthusiasts that long for riding a tour in Italy but can’t meet the calendared tour dates. Self-Guided, Customized or Private Tours are a popular option for groups of any size and individual riders as well. For additional information, contact: Enrico Grassi: enrico@motorcycletoursitaly.com Tel. 39 335 804 9977 (Italy). In the USA: Bill Kniegge; billk@bluestradatours.com Tel. 704 292 8801

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JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERI OU S AMERIC A mysTeRies aT The U.s. navy academy mUseUm 118 MARYLAND AVE., ANNAPOLIS, MD 21402 410-293-2108 • WWW.USNA.EDU/MUSEUM In my travels I have been to many fascinating places and seen some very interesting things. Our Armed Services have some great academies – the Army’s West Point, The U.S. Air Force Academy in Colorado Springs and the famed Naval Academy in Annapolis, Maryland. All of them offer a great insight and a walk though the history of the various branches but the U.S. Naval Academy has a couple of things that are truly part of Mysterious America. Let’s look at the larger of the two and most reverent first. The cRyPT of John PaUl Jones oUR navy’s fiRsT heRo The story of John Paul Jones has its humble beginning in a cottage in Scotland. Despite his highland upbringing the lad became a sailor and fate would bring him to the colonies across the ocean in the Americas. His story is long and his course was changed over time, as did his name (he was born John Paul, but took the surname Jones to disappeared after an illegal duel).

When the Revolutionary War began Jones joined our fledgling Navy and in February 1776 boarded Alfred on the Continental Navy’s maiden cruise. It was aboard this vessel that Jones took the honor of hoisting the first U.S. ensign over a naval vessel. From there John Paul Jones went on to make U.S. Naval history. He went on to sail for the Russians, under the Empress Catherine II. Eventually he lived in Paris, where he passed a few years later and disappeared into history. This might have been the end of the United States’ Navy’s J.P. Jones if not for the tenaciousness of one of our ambassadors. General Horace Porter, United States Ambassador to France, knew Jones was buried somewhere in Paris and he devoted six years to locating and returning to America her first naval hero. The quest started quietly enough in June, 1899, when Porter began pouring over old records searching for Jones’ body. It was common knowledge that John Paul Jones had died in Paris on July 18, 1792, but his death and burial certificates were burned during the French Revolution.

It was discovered that Jones was buried at the Saint Louis Cemetery, which belonged to the French royal family. Four years later, France’s revolutionary government sold the property and the cemetery was forgotten. The area was later used as a garden, a place to dispose of dead animals and where gamblers bet on animal fights. It took years and the intervention of the President of the United States, Theodore Roosevelt, himself to help find, unearth and indentify Jones remains. A U.S. Navy contingent of four cruisers sailed to France to retrieve the Naval legend, his body brought back on the USS Brooklyn. These four ships were met by U.S. Navy Destroyers, at the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay, and John Paul Jones was brought to Annapolis under great fanfare – a true hero’s return. He was first laid to rest in Bancroft Hall but in 1913 a giant bronze and marble sarcophagus was built and you can see this today at the Naval Academy Chapel. Truly one of the most magnificent graves on the planet. The bone shiPs of The fRench The second bit of Mysterious America is a bit creepier, but none the less fascinating. The main museum holds the story of the U.S. Navy and its stellar history in both artifact and story, but it is in the back of the second floor where the mystery really lives. The second floor contains the finest collection of model ships in the world; the Rogers Ship Model Collection is a museum in and of itself. These collections of warship models from the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries are visually astonishing. Each of these priceless models was constructed within a few years of the ship or ship type it represents. The models were crafted with re-


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markable precision. Careful attention was paid to detail, especially the carvings and fittings above and below decks. For some ships of this great sailing era, these are the only real records we have. But in the back is something even better.

During the Anglo-French and Napoleonic wars, the British housed French prisoners-of-war on floating pontoons. Although being held prisoner, sometimes for more than a decade at a time, they were encouraged to make their own keep and to create and sell there own products in order to make there captivity a bit more bearable. They carved the bone models from their beef rations; creations of bone, horsehair and metal pins. It is said that human bones were sometimes used as well. The detail of this work is staggering and they are all stunning to see in person. Prisoners used the larger bones from pigs and cows to carve the body of the ship models, moving on to smaller pieces and sometimes wood scraps

for the finely detailed cannons and masts. In addition to human, cattle, and mutton bones, prisoners made use of their own hair to fashion sail rigging, and tissue paper to create sails. This bizarre model making and ship-carving habits did not bother British officials. The British felt the hobby kept the prisoners happy and busy, plus the extra income boosted morale. Good times, kids, good times.

Today these models, many now found on the second floor of the U.S. Naval Academy in Annapolis, sell for thousands of dollars with the HMS Victory recently fetching some $55,000 dollars at auction. It seems to me a visit to our United States Naval Academy and the museum should now be high on you priority in your search for Mysterious America.


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JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

Hanover Powersports Presents

BIG CITY GETAWAY The sTeRlinG iRon WoRks STERLING, NEW YORK ANOTHER RIDE INTO OUR HISTORY words & images: Brian Rathjen We used to call it the IBM Road, as the company had a building there, but we really didn’t give a hoot to the roads real designation. We were younger in those days and what County Road 84, outside of Tuxedo, New York really had to offer us was a fairly wide-open, police-less venue to get a bit of velocity going. Like on the interstates, when you ride quickly, you can miss things. I look at roads differently now knowing that I am a lot slower on the track than I ever thought I was on the street. But, this story is really about a man named Peter Townsend (no, not The Who’s guitarist), General George Washington, the British, Thomas Edison and a river. Let me explain. Running along County Road 84, which winds through the beautiful Ramapo Mountains, and now past the gigantic monstrosity that is the world headquarters for the Jehovah Witness (try and knock on that fenced-in guarded door!), you will find a large piece of American history. Peter Townsend had set up an iron furnace in the mountains west of the Hudson, the first in the New York region. The iron coming out of his works was of the highest quality and almost all of it was to be shipped back to England for further processing. When the Revolution broke out Townshend Iron Works became a central key to much of the action. When General Washington decided to blockade the Hudson River, he chose the young artillery officer Captain Thomas Machin to complete this task. The thought was that an iron chain would be stretched across the river, stopping the British advancement north. Many know “The Chain” that was used to do this. But did you know there were actually three chains and three attempts at this blockade? The first was floated across the river on log boats at Fort Montgomery, south of West Point, near today’s Bear Mountain Bridge. The Fort Montgomery chain was made of 1 ½ and 2 inch square wrought iron bars bent into shape. This iron was sourced from wherever they could find it, and some of it was not of the best quality. It was 600 yards long. It was laid in November of 1776 and, much to the

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind dismay of the Continental Army, immediately broke into pieces due to its length and the strong currents. Ice soon filled the river and plans for another chain waited till spring. This time the chain held, but the British launched a land attack on the rebels, took their defensive artillery and the British, now in control of this part of the river, simply cut through the chain, sailed up to Kingston, (then the seat of New York’s government) and burned it to the ground. Washington believed a third chain, laid from West Point to Constitution Island would be more effective. It would be shorter than the first two, but still an impressive 1,500 feet long. More importantly this chain was to be solely designed and built by Captain Thomas Machin, who Washington handpicked for the job for the first chains. The young Captain was determined to learn from his mistakes and succeed in this latest endeavor. The chain had to be strong, twice as strong as the Fort Montgomery Chain, yet it had to be light enough that it could be taken up each Fall and installed again in the Spring. Both he and General Washington declared that only iron from Sterling was to be used this time around. Townshend agreed to create this new chain… “…before the first day of April next …an iron chain…in length five hundred yards, each link about two feet long, to be made of the best sterling iron, two inches and one quarter square, or as near thereto as possible, with a swivel to every hundred feet, and a clevis to every thousand weight [1000 pounds]….” It was a stupendous order requiring over 750 chain links, eight swivels and 80 clevises plus anchors, staples and other hardware. It was a massive project and the contract also was specific that Sterling Iron Works would use “their utmost endeavors to keep seven fires at forging and ten at welding” twenty four hours a day. Nothing like this had ever been done before and at one point the iron production for the chain was greater than all of Wales and England were creating. It was said than an acre of forest was burned each day to stoke these furnaces. Captain Machin and Peter Townshend worked well together to beat back the British and the name Townshend may be familiar to our Backroads readers as his cousin was Robert Townshend – of the Culper Ring Spy fame. This story comes completely around when the Culper Ring discovered that

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Page 15

General Benedict Arnold was going to hand over the chain and West Point to the British. When he realized he had been found out, Arnold escaped to the British but the chain remained intact throughout the war and to this day pieces of it can be found at West Point. Although a second furnace was rebuilt in the early 1800s the Iron Works eventually fell into disrepair over the next century and a visit by Thomas Edison sparked interest in the old works. Edison had already built one of the largest ore-crushing plants on the planet, in Ogdensburg, New Jersey, so a visit north to Sterling was an easy day trip. Edison’s place deserves its own story. In the 1950 the furnace was reconstructed in part and today stands in the forest near Sterling Lake - like a rocky sentinel - a magnificent piece of stone work and wood located just off one of the nicest roads in the region. It’s not far from the Frank Lautenberg Visitor Center, named for the late New Jersey Senator who helped preserve the forest for future generations, and found on the shores of Sterling Lake, a natural lake formed during the last ice age. The center is also another semi-hidden gem, hiding in plain sight, along County Road 84 and well worth being part of your visit to the region.


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Rollin’ Fast Cycle Sports Presents

G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN The Pineville TaveRn 1089 DURHAM RD., PINEVILLE, PA 18946 215- 598-3890 • WWW.PINEVILLETAVERN.COM As you might have figured out we enjoy places that have a bit of history to them. And, when you can combine that bedrock of times past, superb food, comfortable ambiance and outstanding roads then you have an excellent formula for a Great All American Diner Run. That is what we have this month as we ride down into the Bucks county region of Pennsylvania and our stop at The Pineville Tavern. Bucks County, PA has been dealt both somewhat of a blessing and curse. It is and has always been a place of natural beauty and major trade, with the draw of the Delaware river and the surrounding hills on both sides of the artery drawing settlers from the Lenape to Europeans to today’s well to do and trendy young hipsters. Places like the town of New Hope can be over crowded and overpriced – especially during the weekends; but once away from villages like this and other such burgs along the river’s banks you can find wide open country roads lined with old growth trees, rolling farms and the occasional and growing housing development or strip mall. The Americazation of our land continues but today we’ll focus on an easier place. The Pineville Inn. Built back in 1742 the tavern once served as the town’s major landmark. The front porch was a central gathering place for locals and the site of sales of public land, livestock and equipment. The Pineville has been a feed mill, general store and hotel. Today it is one of the most popular places in the region and has developed a reputation for delicious food and a varied menu, including the tavern’s homemade pastas. These days some new additions have opened up the place from what it was back in the 1700s and it even has a resident spirit that has stayed around the tavern for decades. We meandered down to the Pineville early on a sunny afternoon stopping in for an early dinner. We had heard about the tavern and had passed by a number of times, but this day we knew we needed to stop and the first thing we ordered was their well-known Snapper Soup. Called P.V.T. tradition this is a snapper turtle soup, and although we have rescued many a snapper from certain death crossing the road, we have no reservations eating one. We feel the same way about guinea pigs in Ecuador. The soup had a tangy taste and the debate of what really gave it that zing

tasty places to take your bike

was hotly debated. The staff at the Pineville would not give away the store on how it is made, but we know there is a wonderful combination of clove, cinnamon, turnip and turtle spice (I have no idea…) and other tasties. Its accolades are well deserved.

… H EY

Although we were there for dinner they have a great lunch menu waiting for that hungry riding group dropping in on a GAADR. As mentioned the Pineville Tavern has a reputation for serious pasta and they offer a number of delicious dishes along this line. Looking for a simple burger. Well, they can do that but why bother with just a burger when you can have the Cowboy with cheddar cheese, apple-


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2016

Page 17 wood bacon and barbecue sauce? The Tavern offers 11 different sandwiches including what I call the battle of the cities a “New York” style corned beef Rueben and classic Philly Cheese Steak. They’re both super and who said Mets and Phillies fans can’t get along?

Okay, never mind. When we stopped by for dinner we were really tempted by the steamed lobster specials that were making their way around to what seemed like every table, but went for some other plates the Pineville is recognized for such as their “Famous” egg rolls. The flavors are lifted from the tavern’s sandwich menu, but served in a wonderfully done wonton (really excellent) and served with accompanying sauces. They make available a shared plate of one each – we thought that was the way to go, but watch that spicy ketchup. I had the Caesar salad, made with the heart of the romaine, homemade croutons and nicely shredded Parmesan cheese and followed that with pesto crusted salmon. You will find plenty of other seafood dishes as well as a number of steaks, chops and ribs. We spotted something called Steak & Cake. We never found out what this is exactly, so we think that might deserve a return visit. If you’re looking for something easy, you will find five different pizzas and a number of toppings that you can toss on as well. We found the service was very pleasant and very fast and summertime will find the Pineville Tavern’s outside dining open for business. Now all we have to do is give you a decent ride to the tavern and we are happy to do this from the Delaware River at the junction of I-80. You can fill in your own backroads to there.

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CROSS INTO PENNSYLVANIA AT PORTLAND BRIDGE TAKE FIRST EXIT ON RIGHT TO RIVER ROAD SOUTH FOLLOW ALONG RIVER RIGHT AT MARTINS CREEK LEFT AT RTE. 611 TOWARD AND AROUND EASTON LEFT AT KINTER HILL RD. BEAR LEFT AT LONELY COTTAGE DR. RIGHT AT MARIESTEIN RD. LEFT AT ROCK RIDGE RD. STRAIGHT AT GEIGEL HILL RD. RIGHT AT RIVER RD. BEAR LEFT AT PLEASANT POINT PIKE LEFT AT RTE. 413 DURHAM RD. CROSS US 202 STAY ON DURHAM ROAD RTE. 413 TO PINEVILLE


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Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents

WE’RE OUTTA HER E RobeRT moRRis inn 314 N MORRIS ST, OXFORD, MD 21654 410- 226-5111 • WWW.ROBERTMORRISINN.COM ROOMS RANGE FROM $145-$250/NIGHT We always like to think we can bring our readers someplace special with each month’s We’re Outta Here! – but, some things and places are more special than others and should be saved for that special occasion or event. Maybe a significant wedding anniversary – like a Silver 25th? Yep, that would be one of them. Truth was, we moved our Spring Break to a different weekend, as we always seem to be on the road with a 100 or so friends during on our anniversary, and we wanted this one to be a bit more private and special. The thought crossed our mind to jet to St. Somewhere, but the truth is we are happier on our bikes and we have always loved the Chesapeake Bay and the little towns we have found along its shores. Many times we have crossed over on the small ferry at Oxford/Bellevue, the oldest continuous ferry crossing in the US. We would bounce around Oxford and ride by our retreat for the night, the Robert Morris Inn, but never had the chance to overnight here. This was perfect for us, and our 25th. The Inn was built back in 1710 – making this also the oldest inn in the US. Both ferry and inn are old time friends and neighbors. Let me give you a bit of the back story. Chartered back to Augustine Herman’s 1673 map of Maryland & Virginia, Oxford is one of Maryland’s oldest towns. Mandated in 1694 by Maryland legislation as the first and only port-of-entry on the Eastern Shore, the town

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads gained significant prominence in colonial days and remained a booming port for over 75 years. Ships delivering goods to the port could number as high as seven at any given time. When going on board, one would find that the favored cargo included tobacco, hides, salt pork, wheat and lumber. The most prominent merchant was Robert Morris, the father of the financier of the American Revolution. Robert Jr. was friend and confidant to George Washington, who visited many times.

Over the years the health and economy of Oxford, like the tides, came and went and what was once a private home became the inn we know today, with a bit of additions and improvements. The staircase, which leads to the guest rooms, is the enclosed type of the Elizabethan period and was built prior to 1710. The flooring in the upstairs hall is Georgia white pine. The nails were hand made, and the 14-inch square beams and pilasters were fastened with hand hewn oak pegs. Four of the guest rooms (rooms 1, 2, 15 & 17) have handmade wall paneling from earlier periods and fireplaces built of brick made in England and used as ballast in the empty sailing ships arriving to trade. The impressive murals in the dining room were made from wallpaper samples used by manufacturers’ salesmen, 140 years ago. “The Four Seasons”, the Plains of West Point, Winnepeg Indian Village, Natural Bridge of Virginia and Boston Harbor - were all printed on a screw-type press using 1600 wood-


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2016

Page 19 cut blocks carved from orangewood and hand painted. The Tavern’s slate floor came from Vermont and over the fireplace is the Morris Coat of Arms, a magnificent oak, deep relief carved by John White. The Inn is really spectacular, yet retains a happy comfort and inviting presence. They even serve tea every afternoon to their guests. After parking the bikes and unloading, we took a comfortable room on the third floor, and then took a stroll around the waterside hamlet of Oxford. Down by the boats and small yachts and round to the far side, where quaint and comfortable homes sit against the harbor. Before dinner we sat outside for a cocktail and watched the sun begin to slide into the western horizon before taking our table at Salter’s Tavern, named after the inn’s celebrity chef owner, Mark Salter. Mark is truly a master and both our meals were delicious and well proportioned and reasonably priced. There are a number of rooms from which to choose, but we found ours to be simply delightful – even if I didn’t give the stand alone bathtub a whirl. A light breeze coming through the windows offered a great night’s sleep and breakfast the next morning equaled the dinner the night before with flavor and size. A cup of coffee on the porch set us up for that day’s ride – even if it was beginning to drizzle just a bit. The Robert Morris Inn is a great find and a perfect place for an escape, especially on those occasions when less of a crowd is far more.


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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

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BACKROADS • JANUARY 2016

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Longacre’s Modern dairy 1445 PA 100, BArto, PA 19504 610-845-7551 • www.longAcresdAiry.com i found this month’s stop on my ice cream run on our way home from the new sweden 450 last year. Unfortunately, it was closed at that time, but when i got home and did a little research, i knew that a return trip was in order. luck for me, we would be passing by, sort of, on another trip to washington, d.c, just in time for breakfast and ice cream, or breakfast of ice cream. it makes my job so much easier when folks who design their websites do such a great job. so, ‘borrowing’ from the longacre folks, here’s what they say: “From the beginning, longacre’s modern dairy has been a family affair. starting in 1920, John s. longacre would rise with the sun, milk his herd of dairy cattle by hand, and begin his daily deliveries of milk to neighboring homes in the Bally, Bechtelsville and Barto areas. traveling by horse-drawn wagon, John would sell up to 22 quarts of raw milk daily, dipped directly from the large metal cans on the wagon. originally built in 1942, the dairy was the vision of John’s son, daniel, who followed in his father’s footsteps and operated longacre’s modern dairy, inc. in washington township along with his wife, Kathryn (treichler), and their children (the current owners) daniel, newton, timothy and Kathryn. daniel’s brother, Paul, continued farming on the family farm and daniel built the dairy on the corner of the property. with several additions having been added over the years, including the advent of longacre’s own unique brand of ice-cream in 1940 and the processing and packaging of organic milk in 1996, the business has seen extensive changes since John’s humble beginnings. Under daniel’s leadership, the dairy delivered to independent grocery stores, mini food marts, educational institutions and nursing homes. in addition, it expanded its product line to include ice cream, ice cream mix, fruit drinks and iced tea. while they no long deliver dairy products by horse-drawn wagon, the family owned and operated business continues to use only the highest quality, all-natural ingredients to provide a truly delicious experience. this hard work and dedication to providing only the very best for their customers is what makes longacre’s modern dairy renowned in washington township and beyond.” now that you have the history, i can expound on the reason you need to come to Barto, PA. the riding in


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©

this part of Pennsylvania is great; nice country roads, twisty bits and plenty of scenic farmland to entertain your riding pleasure. Dairy farms abound in this part of Pennsylvania, and Longacre’s has been milking cows since 1920. Adjacent to the dairy is a modest-size dairy bar where you can sit down in a booth or at one of four counter stools and enjoy your choice from a repertoire of homemade ice cream dishes including floats, sodas, banana boats, cake rolls, and sundaes. Milk shakes are superb, available in any flavor on the ice cream board, and the supreme creation is known as a Garbage Sundae: ten ice cream scoops, ten toppings, whipped cream, and a cherry in a 32-ounce goblet, perfect for a group of ice cream-craving riders. Longacre’s little eating area – a short counter and a handful of booths – opens at 7:30am (8am during the winter and closed on Sunday until April, when they open at 1pm), a time when most ordinary customers come for cof-

Erin Collins

fee and an egg sandwich. (Sandwiches of all kinds are available at lunch time) We arrived at breakfast time, but there was no way I was leaving there without sampling their fine wares, so after a healthy bowl of oatmeal with fruit and brown sugar, I ordered up a small cup of coconut custard. It was creamy and delicious and the perfect way to start the day. Humankind’s fundamental need for excellent ice cream is a craving that cannot be controlled by the hands of a clock. You’ll find a long list of flavors, both premium and seasonal, with soft serve available outside during the warmer months, as well as outdoor seating. We’ll give you a nice meander so you can enjoy the scenery and ice cream at your leisure. Enjoy and we’ll see you on the next Ice Cream Run.

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Rip & Ride® • LONGACRE’S MODERN DAIRY 1445 PA 100, BARTO, PA 19504 • 610-845-7551 • WWW.LONGACRESDAIRY.COM WINTER HOURS: MON-SAT 8AM-8PM • CLOSED SUNDAY • AFTER APRIL 1: SUNDAY 1-9PM

START: ROLLIN’ FAST, LEBANON, NJ SOUTH ON CHERRY (OFF MAIN) TO CR 629 • GO AROUND RESERVOIR RIGHT ON VALLEY CREST LEFT ON ALLERTON RD LEFT ON LILAC RD RIGHT ON RIVER RD LEFT ON CAMP BUCK RD/PINE HILL RD LEFT ON SYDNEY RD RIGHT ON QUAKERTOWN RD LEFT ON CROTON RD RIGHT ON OAK GROVE RD RIGHT ON COUNTY ROAD 519 LEFT AT RIDGE RD RIGHT ON ROUTE 12 LEFT ON ROUTE 29 BEAR RIGHT ON BRIDGE ST CROSS RIVER IN FRENCHTOWN LEFT ON ROUTE 32 RIGHT ON HEADQUARTERS RD LEFT ON GEIGEL HILL RD STRAIGHT ON ROCK RIDGE RD RIGHT ON CAFFERTY HILL RD STRAIGHT ON STROCKS GROVE RD RIGHT ON ROCK RIDGE RD LEFT ON MARIENSTEIN RD LEFT ON ROUTE 611 RIGHT ON DURHAM RD LEFT ON MOUNTAINVIEW RD THROUGH NOCKAMIXON STATE PARK

Long Island

Kawasaki

RIGHT ON DEER WOOD LANE LEFT ON COBBLER RD RIGHT ON OLD BETHLEHEM RD LEFT ON WEST THATCHER RD RIGHT ON DOYLESTOWN PIKE LEFT ON FAIRVIEW AVE STAY ON FAIRVIEW AVE LEFT ON STATION RD THIRD EXIT TO S. OLD BETHLEHEM PIKE RIGHT ON TOLLGATE RD BEAR LEFT ON EAST BROAD ST BECOMES TRUMBAUERSVILLE RD RIGHT ON CARVERS HILL RD STRAIGHT ON HARING RD RIGHT ON FINLAND RD RIGHT ON JAMES RD QUICK LEFT ON ST. PAULS CHURCH RD RIGHT ON FRYE RD LEFT ON EAST BUCK RD RIGHT ON MONTGOMERY RD LEFT ON LAYFIELD RD RIGHT ON KUTZTOWN RD LEFT ON CONGO RD STRAIGHT ON SCHWOYER RD LEFT ON WENTLING SCHOOLHOUSE RD STRAIGHT ON MILLER RD RIGHT ON NIANTIC RD RIGHT ON ROUTE 100 LONGACRE’S DAIRY ON LEFT

67 North Broadway • Route 107 • Hicksville, NY

www.LIKawasaki.com • 516-935-6969


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JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

The Best of Backroads 2015 As we roll into the season of 2016 we’d like to take a look back, as we do every year, at what was found in the pages of Backroads during 2015. This past year was one of the busiest for this magazine in a long time and our writers and columnists, as well as Shira and Brian, scoured the region, nation and planet in search of some of the most exciting happenings, destinations and adventures in motorcycling. The yearly whittling down of these stories to just a small few is never an easy task. But, that annual conference held at Backroads’ Fortress of Solitude – Monkey With A Gun – located at a never to be revealed, ultra top secret location just north of Swartswood Lake in Sussex County, New Jersey - was stocked with cases of California wine and local micro-brews, food prepared by Bobby Flay and a fleet of hipster food trucks, along with a private concert by the Rolling Stones backed by the London Philharmonic Orchestra, which allowed us to, somehow, make our way through this tough task and bring you this special issue… The Best of Backroads 2015. We hope you like our choices.

Great All American Diner Run For so many years now one of the most popular monthly columns has been the Great All American Diner Run or as we call it… GAADR. (Yes, it is pronounced like it looks – kiss off). We partook in a number of superb restaurants this year, but let’s take a look at the top three.

SECOND RUNNER UP • FOOTE’S PORT HENRY DINER 5 ST. PATRICK PLACE, PORT HENRY, NY 12974 • 518-546-7600 This old place has been up along the shores of Lake Champlain for years (since 1933) and, tucked away from the main road as it is, we missed it more than a few times but finally got it right in our May 2015 issue. Now called Foote’s, the Port Henry diner is it a throw back to the tinier roadside diners that started it all back in the day. The food is superb, the staff friendly and accommodating (they let us in after the doors locked) and the town of Port Henry is the Sighting Capital for the Lake Monster Champ – always a bonus. This place is also an excellent ride form Lake George, something you Americaders should think about if you have a free day at the rally.

FIRST RUNNER UP • PHOENICIA DINER 5681 NY-28, PHOENICIA, NY 12464 • 845-688-9957 • WWW.PHOENICIADINER.COM Just sliding into eligibility with a December story in Backroads, the Phoenicia Diner is the perfect example of the positive rebirth of the Great American Diner. It also has been found along Route 28 in the Catskills for years, but has seen a total makeover and renaissance in its look, feel and contemporary flavors. The food is the best we have had all year and the location along one of New York state’s Mother Roads allows for some of the best riding to and from the diner – a big plus when it comes to the GAADR. When traveling though these old mountains be sure to make a stop at the Phoenicia Diner, a must do on your riding bucket list.

FIRST PLACE GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN 2015 • HILLBILLY HOT DOGS 6951 OHIO RIVER RD, LESAGE, WV • 304-762-2458 • WWW.HILLBILLYHOTDOGS.COM homeWReckeR!!! We had heard about Hillbilly Hot Dogs for years before we were able to find the time to swing down along the Ohio River to Lesage, West Virginia to experience what we think is one of the more distinctive places we have featured in the GAADR for ourselves. Although it might not have the gastronomical diversity of our other two finalists, it does have a quirky, different and fun atmosphere that is hard to come by anywhere else in the USA. It is unique, we promise. Their signature HOMEWRECKER hot dog is ridiculously big and we double dare you to give it a try. The area along this Ohio and West Virginia border has wonderful combinations of great backroads, and some old gravel roads that will keep the ADV riders happy as well. When you combine the local, off the charts ambiance and seriously different hot dogs you will find here, you will see why Hillbilly Hot Dogs took the top spot in this year’s Best of Backroads.

Big City Getaway They say motorcycling is all about the ride but a great ride to an equally interesting place makes it even better. Each month our Big City Getaway column loads you up for someplace interesting, historic or just plain cool. Welcome to our top three getaways for 2015.

THIRD RUNNER UP • JOHNSTOWN FLOOD NATIONAL MEMORIAL 733 LAKE RD, SOUTH FORK, PA 15956 • 814-886-6100 • WWW.NPS.GOV/JOFL On May 31, 1889 the message was sent “The Dam is Becoming Dangerous and May Possibly Go!” It did and around 3:10 p.m., the South Fork Dam collapsed, freeing the 20 million tons of Lake Conemaugh to rip down the Little Conemaugh River.


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It took a full 40 minutes for the entire lake to drain of the water. On its way downstream, toward Johnstown 14 miles away, the crest picked up debris, trees, houses, and animals - crushing small villages along the way. The rush of this massive amount of water slammed into the city and into the history books. Two thousand, two hundred and nine dead. Ninety two families completely lost. We sometimes hear of things from the past – such as the Johnstown Flood – but when we really take a look and get a better understanding of the magnitude of a tragedy of this size and scope, as you will at the Johnstown Flood National Memorial, you begin to see that our nation’s history is deep, rich and sometimes dark. Around these United States are many such places as these. You can better understand your future by looking closely at our past.

SECOND RUNNER UP • NEWSEUM 555 PENNSYLVANIA AVE NW, WASHINGTON, DC 20001202-292-6100 • WWW.NEWSEUM.ORG We chose this with the caveat that you need to make a great ride to our nation’s capital. Then park your steed and hit the streets, or subway as we did. The Newseum, with its look back at history old and new from the perspective of the newspaper, periodical and magazine makes it one of the most interesting museums we have seen in years. This place is massive, with its seven-level, 250,000-square-foot building featuring 15 theaters and 15 galleries, which will bring you to news coverage, and the portrayal of history from the very beginning to the headlines of the very day you visit. The Pulitzer Award-winning photography exhibit was worth the entire visit and will make you realize that photography was once an art and not an app. This is easily an all-day affair, but once you are committed you will see and appreciate why it made it into the Best of Backroads.

FIRST PLACE BIG CITY GETAWAY 2015 • BANNERMAN CASTLE & ARSENAL POLLEPEL ISLAND – HUDSON RIVER • WWW.BANNERMANCASTLE.ORG You might have seen these ruins sitting on the small island they call Pollepel, in the middle of Hudson River just north of West Point. Although we’d like to say it was built in some romantic fashion, like a Hudson River Taj Mahal, it was really an armory built to hold weapons for Francis Bannerman’s Military Surplus Company. Indeed the castle and home built on the island did serve the family as a Big City Getaway of sorts, it still was a place of business and many a war and uprising found their power from this little island in the Hudson. Today there is a concerted effort to save what has fallen into ruins and Bannerman’s castle is well worth the visit and will even necessitate parking the bikes and taking a little river cruise as well – always a plus in our eyes. Tours are conducted during the weekends of the warmer months. In addition to tours they also feature dinners, Broadway shows and the occasional Scottish Pipe Band performing on the island. This is an excellent destination for riders or riding groups looking for something a bit different and exciting on their weekend ride and comfortably finds its place in the #1 spot of Big City Getaway.

We’re Outta Here!

Who doesn’t love to disappear, escape and ride away from the day-to-day if even for just a weekend. We know, by the use of science, that we motorcyclists go on overnight excursions 5 to 1 over our four wheel and boring brethren. With this in mind we’d like to serve up our top three We’re Outta Here! escapes for 2015.

SECOND RUNNER UP • MOUNTAINEER HOTEL 31 EAST SECOND AVENUE, WILLIAMSON, WV • 304-235-2222 • WWW.MOUNTAINEERHOTEL.COM Smack in the middle of the country that saw the Hatfields and McCoys feud and down the block from a building made out of coal, in the border town of Williamson, West Virginia, along the Tug Fork River, you will find the Mountaineer Hotel. Strong and stately this is one of the hotels that was created back when building a hotel really meant something to a small town. Built in 1925 the Mountaineer Hotel has had its share of famous guests with JFK, Paul Newman, Jerry Lee Lewis, Henry Ford and others - including the great Soupy Sales - staying here overnight. In fact, all the rooms are named after famous and infamous guests that have walked through its doors. We lobbied for a Mr. Happy room, but have not heard back as of. The place is large and after dinner we spent a good deal of time exploring it, seeing whose name was on what room and finding the basement game room too. Just walking into the Mountaineer with its grand lobby will let you know you have arrived at something special and, with 166 rooms, this just might end up being a home base for an upcoming Spring Break Rally.

FIRST RUNNER UP • BURN BRAE MANSION 573 HIGH RD, GLEN SPEY, NY 12737 • 845-856-3335 • WWW.BURNBRAEMANSION.COM We love a great bed & breakfast and we love them more when there is a twist to them as well. In September we brought you to the Burn Brae – an old mansion that has been saved and refurbished by famed bicycle coach and trainer Mike Fraysse.


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JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS For sure the Burn Brea is a beauty to look at and Mike’s Olympic Bicycle Trophy Room is beyond impressive – as was the attic – which is packed with pure Americana and is something to behold. But, it is what you can’t see… well, can’t see all the time, that drew us here. It is haunted. We know this is true because it has been featured on cable TV and who could argue with that. But, what we experienced and what we felt in the home was unique and different. We are not here to say anything you don’t want to hear or try to convince you that things happened during our stay – but, things did and we can’t explain them. Burn Brae is well worth the trip and the overnight, if not for the spirits then for the graciousness of the hosts, and simply to enjoy this grand old place that Mike and Patti are happy to share. Add in the phenomenal riding to be found in Sullivan County, New York and you have our first runner up in this year’s We’re Outta Here!

FIRST PLACE WE’RE OUTTA HERE! 2015 BAVARIAN MANOR COUNTRY INN & RESTAURANT 866 MOUNTAIN AVE., PURLING, NEW YORK 12470 518-622-3261 • WWW.BAVARIANMANOR.COM For the most part we try to stick with a formula for these different columns and the usual recipe – exciting roads, great location and easy ambiance are much like our salt, pepper and stir. This year’s #1 spot for We’re Outta Here! combined all these into a wonderful dish called the Bavarian Manor. Located in the northern side of the Catskills we have been there a few times now and even finished last year’s Spring Break on their wide veranda-style porch. The old place has been taking in travelers and patrons for 150 years – and the present owners Suzanne and Stan are 3rd generation family innkeepers with Old World ties. And that shows in the very Bavarian flavor from which the inn takes its name. Their German restaurant cannot be touched for 100 miles, and the desserts you’ll find must be created by aliens - as they are out of this world! Breakfast will hurt your diet too. The inn has 18 very comfortable rooms and you’ll find the bar and happy barkeep right off the porch, where you should find yourself sometime this year with an adult beverage in your hand and your motorcycle cooling off in the driveway. When we find a place that is really good we like to gush a bit. So, we’re gushing! Make it a point to take an overnight to Purling, New York and the Bavarian Manor Country Inn & Restaurant; you will see why it made our first choice in this year’s We’re Outta Here!

Mysterious America If our other columns have a formula for success then we have to say there is an exception – Doctor Seymour O’Life’s Mysterious America. When we receive the cable with his latest installment we never know what we will get (yes, cable – not a fax, paper or email – his images are sometimes left at our door step in the middle of the night as well). This year’s Mysterious columns went from ancient dinosaur digs to lost paper towns and in between we have narrowed his top three to these next entries. Up ahead, there’s a sign post – it’s time for the Best of Mysterious America.

SECOND RUNNER UP • MR. ED’S ELEPHANT MUSEUM & CANDY EMPORIUM 6019 CHAMBERSBURG RD, ORRTANNA, PA 17353 • 717-352-379 • WWW.MISTEREDS.COM Mr. Ed’s first found its way into the pages of Backroads when Shira ran across it on her way down south for a Perfect Wife Convention (don’t argue we’re making brownie points here) and she was blown away by what she found inside Mr. Ed’s. We have seen a number of “collections” but few equal Ed’s. The story goes that Mister Ed and his wife Pat received their first elephant as a wedding gift and bought a few more on their honeymoon. Friends began to help by adding to his pachyderm collection. Today it is most likely the largest collection of such dolls, figurines and replicas on the planet, with over 12,000 elephants to be seen. It really is a very, very cool place. We also stopped by here on a Fall Fiesta Rally a few years back – see what you miss when you don’t come on a rally we won’t charge you for?

FIRST RUNNER UP • THE MAPPARIUM AT THE MARY BAKER EDDY LIBRARY 200 MASSACHUSETTS AVENUE, BOSTON, MA 02115 • 617-450-7000 • WWW.MARYBAKEREDDYLIBRARY.ORG/PROJECT/MAPPARIUM Seymour turned us onto the absolutely finest representation of our planet to be found anywhere when he guided us to the Mary Baker Eddy Library in Boston, Massachusetts. Designed and created in 1935 by Chester Lindsay Churchill, the Mapparium – originally called the Glass Room – was built as part of the home base for Christian Science and their magazine, the Christian Science Monitor. The Mapparium would present a map of the world depicted in its true projection and being geographically correct. It would be how Earth truly is and not distorted as the Mercator Projected maps. Do you really think Greenland is as big as Africa? Hardly. Here at the Mapparium you actually walk through the center of the Earth and see the land and features as they really


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2016

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are – well, except for the national boundaries that are perpetually stuck in 1935 era political borders. The acoustics are superbly wild, with a whisper being heard clear across the planet – so to speak. These days there are 206 LED light fixtures that can be programmed to produce up to sixteen million colors. When we visited it was one of the few times Shira didn’t have to roll her eyes and, in fact, agreed that it is one of the most amazing things she has seen; a perfect statement for the Mysterious America in the 2015 Best of issue.

FIRST PLACE MYSTERIOUS AMERICA 2015 • MÜTTER MUSEUM 19 S. 22ND STREET, PHILADELPHIA, PA 19103 • 215-560-8564 • MUTTERMUSEUM.ORG This was easy – no contest – bizzaro – disturbing - and almost made last year’s champion the Trans-Allegheny Lunatic Asylum feel like a stroll in the park. The Mütter Museum, found at the College of Physicians of Philadelphia, has one of the largest museums of its type in the United States and holds over 25,000 items. Items being skulls, bones, human remains, medical oddities – you know, the usual happy stuff. Use your imagination here; it probably will not be fertile enough to picture what you will find here. If the Mapparium has our redhead all smiles the Mütter Museum had her dead silent and ready to leave. Seymour on the other hand thought it smashing! What we have here is the most down to the bone, oddest, unusual, disturbing and remarkable museum we have stopped by this year. Let us throw out a few of the items that are on display – Einstein’s brain. The Soap Lady, the remains of Harry Eastlack who literally ossified, leaving a skeleton from your nightmares. There were some other incredible displays such as a giant colon and the death cast of “Siamese Twins” Chang and Eng Bunker. The 139-skull display belonging to Viennese anatomist Joseph Hyrtl was amazing. The Mütter Museum is truly part of Mysterious America but we warn you it is not for the faint of heart, the squeamish or the delicate – but it is mysterious and easily walked in and stole the very this column’s Best of Backroads 2015!

Shira’s Ice Cream Run We have saved the best for last. Little would she have believed it three years back but this monthly column has become one of our most popular and Shira has become the “Go To Ice Cream Gal” for so many in and out of the motorcycle travel scene. Much like Peter Parker she has learned “with great power comes great responsibility” or some such banter like that. That being said the gang at MWAG argued back and forth on things like texture, creaminess, fat content and flavors, but in the end it was the red head’s final decision to be made. And they follow…

THIRD RUNNER UP • RIVERSIDE CREAMERY 5 WATER STREET, PORT JERVIS, NY • 845-856-8560 • WWW.RIVERSIDECREAMERY.COM Back in the spring Backroads ran a Shira’s Ice Cream Run from Sussex County, New Jersey along a decent 80-mile romp through the backroads and ending along the Delaware River at Port Jervis and a great old fashion ice cream place called the Riverside. Although the ice cream is not home-made (it is Perry’s, a micro-creamery of ice creams) and some of the other treats are fresh out of the oven – superb fudge! Taking a seat along the grass at the Riverside or one of the picnic tables and enjoying a cold sweet treat cannot be beat! This place is very popular with locals and Backroads readers now as well. If you haven’t yet, add the Riverside Creamery to your route. It is just minutes from the Hawks Nest and well worth seeking out.

SECOND RUNNER UP • THE FRANKLIN FOUNTAIN 116 MARKET ST, PHILADELPHIA, PA 19106 • 215-627-1899 • WWW.FRANKLINFOUNTAIN.COM Located on a downtown corner of Philadelphia on Market Street, not too far from the river, you will find our second place journey into fine ice cream, the Franklin Fountain. Complete with an old-style fountain shop feel (it should, it’s the real deal) and even outside seating, their menu is larger than any we have ever encountered at an ice cream parlor before – a full 22 pages. Holy moly! Not only that – their locally-sourced ingredients are remarkable. All their fine flavors, as well as their toppings, are made in-house from scratch recipes. Milk and cream are from grass-fed cows who happily live on a local 1920s family dairy, nuts are freshly roasted in South Philly, chocolate is from Wilbur’s of Lititz, PA and their rooftop apiary and herb garden supply the honey and spice ingredients. Right next door they also run a Sweet Shop – one can’t have too much sugar, right? The Franklin Fountain is a real Philly gem and, as far as ice creameries go, ranks far higher than the local baseball team (Ka-pow! First shot of 2016 fired – LGM!). When in Philadelphia stop in after your Mütter Museum experience – you’ll need it.

FIRST PLACE SHIRA’S ICE CREAM RUN 2015 • SOCO CREAMERY 5 RAILROAD ST, GREAT BARRINGTON, MA 01230 • 413-644-9866 • WWW.SOCOCREAMERY.COM For those who were smart enough to tag along with Shira on the way to the Berkshires on this year’s Spring Break rally you got to experience the very best in ice cream goodness as Shira made a surprise stop at SoCo, in Great Barrington, Massachusetts. Short for South County this mecca for chilly creaminess is owned by one Danny Mazursky, who has been serving up his different creations for over a quarter a century. His vision was to have a hip ice cream company with a classic vibe, and that’s just what we found at SoCo.


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JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS Featuring all natural and locally sourced ingredients, sporting a kick ass butterfat content average of 15% and having some of the most creative flavors to be found, this place won Shira and tough crew right over. Add into the mix that SoCo Creamery is in a very cool, if touristy town, surrounded by the mountains of western Massachusetts and the roads to be found there and you have one deep ice cream run indeed. One not only good enough for Shira’s Ice Cream Run, but good enough to be the Best Ice Cream Run for all of 2015! We hope you enjoyed our recap of the best we found in 2015. So here we are in 2016 – ready to start a new season? We know we are!

Rip & Ride® • RIVERSIDE CREAMERY 5 WATER STREET, PORT JERVIS, NY • 845-856-8560 • WWW.RIVERSIDECREAMERY.COM • GPS DOWNLOAD: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/gtnn5o

BEAR LEFT PETER ’S VALLEY – WALPACK RD 45.9 CROSS DINGMANS RD ONTO OLD MINE RD

START: DOUBLE S DINER 154 RTE. 23 SOUTH, SUSSEX, NJ TOTAL MILES

EXIT ONTO POND SCHOOL ROAD

0.0

RIGHT ONTO CLARK RD

1.2

LEFT ONTO COMPTON RD

1.6

LEFT ON ROUTE 206 NORTH

54.5

IMMEDIATE RIGHT DECKERTOWN TPKE/CR 650 54.5 (CROSSING ROUTE 206 DIAGONALLY RIGHT)

STRAIGHT ONTO CR 565

LEFT ONTO BRINK RD

63.2

STRAIGHT ONTO CR 628

LEFT ONTO ROUTE 23 NORTH

64.9

HARD LEFT ONTO CLOVE RD

71.3

RIGHT ONTO NEW MASHIPACONG RD

74.6

STOP – STRAIGHT ONTO CR 627

RIGHT ONTO RIVER RD/CR 521

76.1

STRAIGHT ONTO CR 626

80.0 80.3

BEAR LEFT ONTO CR 519

6.3

CROSS ROUTE 206 – STAY ON CR 519

14.2

LEFT ONTO CR 521 SOUTH

18.3

LEFT AT STOP LIGHT E. MAIN ST/US 6 WEST

RIGHT ONTO MILLBROOK RD

25.7

LEFT AT JERSEY AVE

LEFT ONTO BIRCH RIDGE RD

28.3

FOLLOW SIGNS FOR ROUTE 209 SOUTH

HARD RIGHT ONTO MILLBROOK RD

30.6

RIGHT ONTO WATER ST (BEFORE BRIDGE)

81.4

RIGHT ONTO WALPACK RD – NPS 615

36.3

RIVERSIDE CREAMERY AHEAD

81.5

Rip & Ride® • BURN BRAE MANSION 573 HIGH RD, GLEN SPEY, NY 12737 • 845-856-3335 • WWW.BURNBRAEMANSION.COM

OUT OF NEW JERSEY ON ROUTE 17 RTE. 17 NORTH PAST TUXEDO BEAR LEFT ONTO SR. 19 (PAST RED APPLE REST) LEFT AT 17M FOLLOW SIGNS TO RTE. 208 NORTH LEFT AT RTE. 52 OVER MOUNTAINS

(LOOK FOR HANG GLIDERS) LEFT ON RTE. 209 SOUTH RIGHT AT PEENPACK TRAIL LEFT AT RTE. 42 RIGHT AT RTE. 97 THROUGH HAWKS NEST RIGHT AT SR 41 - BURN BRAE MANSION ON LEFT


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2016

Rip & Ride® • FOOTE’S PORT HENRY DINER 5 ST. PATRICK PLACE, PORT HENRY, NY 12974 518-546-7600

FROM AMERICADE TOUR EXPO, MILLION DOLLAR BEACH RD.

LEFT AT RTE. 9LLEFT AT RTE. 149 LEFT AT RTE. 4 BEAR RIGHT CR 18 LEFT AT RTE. 22A LEFT AT MAIN STREET RIGHT T STAGE ROAD RIGHT AT MT. INDEPENDENCE ROAD LEFT AT RTE. 73 LEFT AT RTE. 74 TO FERRY TO NEW YORK RIGHT AT RTE. 9N BEAR LEFT AT VINEYARD ROAD RIGHT AT CREEK ROAD LEFT AT WHITE CHURCH ROAD RIGHT AT EDGEMONT ROAD LEFT AT RTE. 9N RIGHT AT ST. PATRICKS PLACE TO DINER

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Rip & Ride® • BAVARIAN MANOR COUNTRY INN 866 MOUNTAIN AVE, PURLING, NY 12470 518-622-3261 • WWW.BAVARIANMANOR.COM

RTE. 23 NORTH THROUGH NJ TO NY BORDER LEFT AT US 6 THROUGH PORT JERVIS STRAIGHT AT RTE. 97 THROUGH HAWKS NEST RIGHT AT RTE. 42 LEFT AT RTE. 55 RIGHT AT CR 19 LEFT AT SR 157 FROST VALLEY / BIG INDIAN RIGHT ON RTE. 28 LEFT AT RTE. 42 LEFT AT BEECHRIDGE SOUTH RD. SR 2 EXTREME HARD DOWNHILL LEFT TURN – CAUTION STRAIGHT ON SR 2 BEAR LEFT AT RTE. 23 RIGHT AT JOSEPH CHADDERDON RD RIGHT AT HEARTS CONTENT RD. BEAR LEFT AT CR 24 MOUNTAIN AVE. BAVARIAN MANOR INN ON LEFT

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JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

Fall Fiesta 2015 • What’s in your cupboard? Even though we have tried to mix destinations up a bit for the various Backroads’ events there are some places we are drawn to time and again, and some hotels that just stand out as great gathering spots. So it was when we began to map out our 2015 Fall Rally we like to call “The Fiesta.” Looking for the needed ingredients for a great weekend of riding, we went to our rally cupboard and pulled out a little Winchester, Virginia, a good dash of Elkins, West Virginia (similar sounding but with a variance of flavor) and a frosting of Shippensburg, Pennsylvania. Mix that all together and simmer with five days of brilliant sunshine and moderate humidity and temperatures and you end up with a delicious and filling long weekend rally.

Okay, that was said in jest - maybe. The first day’s route started in western New Jersey, at the Portland Bridge into Pennsylvania, spending the day and 260 miles down through the Keystone State, the Amish Country and across the Susquehanna River before slipping across the Mason-Dixon line and into Maryland, and along the Potomac. We crossed from Maryland into Virginia and then West Virginia in a short span of a few miles near Harpers Ferry. We battled a bit of traffic in Charles Town before breaking free of the busy burg and spent the last 20 miles of the day rocketing the ups and downs of this short hilly section of Virginia, near Summit Point Motorsports Park to the George Washington Hotel, an inn that has seen us time and again.

So plans were made, hotels booked, maps scoured, BaseCamp lit up and routes semi-finalized for the 17th Annual Backroads Fall Fiesta. We did not have a grand meet up for the ride down south from the New York region this time around, with folks making their way to the first stop, a Thursday evening in the trendy town of Winchester, Virginia. Not wanting to have folks wandering around the Mid-Atlantic states we did send out suggested routes to each night’s destination, but they were only suggestions and taken with the caveat that gravel, unpaved or poorly surface roads could appear any time along them.

The hotel has historic charm combined with a great modern and hip ambiance, a piano in the bar for our friend jazz musician Glen, and a superior pool. It also helps that it is in the city of Winchester with its very visitor-friendly Old Town Walking Mall and a plethora of great restaurants to be found. Later that night the hotel’s bar was packed and the lower level of the indoor parking was crowded with machines. After a short breakfast riders got on the road to our second of three stops - a two night stay in the West Virginia town of Elkins and the Isaac Jackson


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2016

Page 31 Hotel, a new place that finds itself smack in the middle of some of the best motorcycle roads to be found in the entire United States. Yes, western US readers – we are talking to you. We had put together a route that we hope would keep our riders happy and since we rode it as well I can say it was awesome. Others said perhaps the best day’s ride of any Backroads’ event. Did we say awesome? I might need a bigger adjective for this one. It consisted of 180 “Big Miles (see September’s Free Wheelin’) and this day the hits kept on coming.

The previous day it seemed that we could not get away from the Pace Car traffic. This day we rarely, if ever, had to deal with crawling pedestrian auto traffic. For this ride the group, as always at a Backroads event, broke into small packs of friends and like-minded and talented riders and made their way over the mountains of Western Virginia and into the Mountain State of West ‘By God’ Virginia. State Road 12, that ran through Lost River State Park, was still marked as unpaved on my Michelin map, but Google and BaseCamp have far newer pedigrees so I trusted them and was rewarded with a very special road indeed. The lefts and rights only heightened the day’s excitement. We found a superb little restaurant in Moorefield, West Virginia, near the new Interstate, called O’Neill’s that was stellar and then we followed down along the peaks in virtually traffic free roads. Some might think the big highway that now bisects West Virginia to be a bother – not so, say I! The heavy truck traffic that use to dominate the twisty backroads of the Mountain State is now all on the big Federal Road; leaving the other fun pavement all to us. The truckers, commerce, capitalism and we riders all win at the same time. We made the prerequisite stop at Seneca Rocks and the Front Porch for a slice of Boston Crème Pie and coffee before making the final charge on Route 33

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JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS west through the Monongahela National Forest and over mountains to Elkins. But. There is always a but, isn’t there? You remember that caveat about gravel roads? Good. We had one last detour off Route 33. A little tiny road of about 6 miles that would run into yet another and then back down onto Route 33 near the Eastern Continental Divide at some 3,300 feet over Allegheny Mountain. This road looked paved on the maps, it began paved in real life, but that was a short-lived promise. Many riders got down the first tiny bit only to think it through and turn around. The brave kept on going and were rewarded with some great vistas and a piece of West Virginia that many do not get to see that often. For those that carried on along Route 33, well, you got to ride Route 33, a joy in itself. The next day many who did not get that pleasure, got their chance. Mostly everyone thought the day was a huge success and the ride truly momentous. Others forgot the 170 other miles and settled into dwelling on the tiny bit of gravel encountered. Such is the way of the world and just the beginning of a few of the unpaved roads that would be sprinkled through the weekend’s rides. We really do try to avoid the gravel, but when reaching for the tiny and special backroads, our tires will often get dirty. Deal with it. Our splendid weather continued that Saturday with small riding groups heading out in various directions and to more than a few of the stops and destinations that Backroads had thrown out there. Shira and bunch of friends took a loop ride that would bring them to a star of our own Mysterious America - the Trans-Allegheny Lunatic Asylum. Infamous in its history and grand in its design and construction, a Kirkwood-planned hospital for the mentally ill was built between 1858 and 1881, is the largest hand-cut stone masonry building in North America, the second largest in the world, next to the Kremlin. This is a dark place and full of interesting if slightly creepy history. It was a beautiful day; what could possibly go wrong at a place like this. A large and intrepid group did the tour – spooky as it is. Their loop continued on to the small Swiss town of Helvetia for lunch before continuing on the backroads of West Virginia for the rest of the day. Evidentially, O’Life, who created this route, did not get or heed the memo on avoiding dirt.

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BACKROADS • JANUARY 2016

Page 33 ®

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On that note… I, on the other hand, had made up a loop I called West Virginia Fantasies. The impetus for this ride came from a Chicago piece composed by trombonist James Pankow. A young Jimmy, pining for a lass who hailed from nearby Buckannon, West Virginia, brought together one of Chicago’s most memorable pieces including Make Me Smile, Colour My World and… West Virginia Fantasies - all in the piece called Ballad for a Girl from Buchannon on Chicago’s second album. Pankow’s music is better than his spelling. The idea was to do a 125-mile loop that brought together the real beauty of this state. And, I succeeded. But, the cost of that success was a good number of unpaved, sometimes rocky, roads.

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Coming along for the ride was my buddy Helene on her GS – a bike well suited for the trek. The Kawasaki Versys was a bit out of its element but not nearly as much as our friends John and Scott who were a half hour behind us on a Victory Vision and a BMW RS respectively. For some riders any bike, and any road, will do. Although this route did ride a bit sideways, we did find the planned lunch stop at Sirianni’s Café, in Davis, and made a visit to Black Water Falls State Park to see this heavily running torrent, a side trip well worth the effort. Helene and I carried on spotting a roadside sign and making a detour to find the Fairfax Stone – it was here that a surveyors stone was laid to mark the source of the Potomac River on July 23, 1746 to settle a boundary dispute between Lord Thomas Fairfax and the English Privy Council. Fairfax, Virginia is named for him. Today the stone sits in a quiet glade; one of the most peaceful spots we have seen in a long time. The rest of my route worked brilliantly, (re: no romps through the jungles of West Virginia) and we even made a side trip to see the Mummies of Philippi - a sad story in itself – made sadder this day as the museum was closed. Other riders had headed down to the Cass Railroad for lunch and then a charge up Spruce Knob, one of the most scenic roads in a state rich with them, and the highest point in West Virginia.

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Page 34

JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

By evening time riders began to roll back into the Isaac Jackson and before dinner we gathered those present for a little “housekeeping” and to award the first ever Pete Miller Award, now given out to a rallier who has had, let us say, mechanical issues on the road. This first PMA was given out to Michael Mosca who had gremlins make him take his bike apart at this year’s Spring Break Rally in Lake Placid, New York. It was all in good fun and Pete was happy to have it named after him and not given to him, although his new Flash shirt looks great on him. The post dinner celebrations carried on into the night or at least until the

weather, that had been so fair to us, closed in with some late night showers. The next morning saw the sun burst through the remnants of the previous night’s wet and folks preparing for the ride to our final night on the road, the familiar Shippens Place, in Shippensburg Pennsylvania. We have been here a number of times as, even though it is a superb destination in itself, its prime location midway up PA from points south made it a no brainer for the final night of the Backroads Fall Fiesta 2015. Shira and I left just after 8am and immediately began running into things Americana, different and some better referred to the good doctor O’Life. The first was the Kingsford factory, which makes that all too familiar charcoal in the blue, white and red bag, that everybody has used at least a dozen times. If you are not familiar with it - go back to France. Located right outside of Parsons, West Virginia, where a good deal of that charcoal is born, they have been making it here for some 58 years. Do you know the connection between Henry Ford and Kingsford charcoal? It’s worth a Google.

And…They’re Off! FALL FIESTA 2016

SEPT. 22-26

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nother riding season has arrived and, with it, another Backroads Rally. This Fall we’ll be headed north to enjoy the colors and the mountain riding, staying in and out of towns. We’ll have a group dinner Saturday at the Eagle Mountain House, so make your reservations early as rooms, and seating, are limited.

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Further on we passed by the Smallest Church in the 48 States - “Our Lady of the Pines.” The sign says 48 states and we know this Roman Catholic Church has been around for a while. Interesting, but not the O’Life sort of stuff we would run into later. Along the way we came upon other riders from the rally and even picked up a stray, Dale, looking for some riding companionship, or someone with a working GPS. We crossed over the Potomac River and into Maryland for the final time on the old and low wooden Old Town Bridge – one of the few privately owned bridges in the nation (one other being Dingmans from NJ to PA). It cost us a whopping .50 and I could see that this


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2016 bridge has probably been submerged more that just a few times. Just a short ride down the road we crossed over the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal. Here in this part of Maryland the canal is almost perfectly restored and kept with its tow path now carrying bicyclists and joggers. It was simply beautiful to see and a game-changer for a young United States economy. Operating for nearly 100 years the canal was a lifeline for communities along the Potomac River as coal, lumber and agricultural products floated down the waterway to market. This is where our ride really began getting odd. You see here in Old Town, the former High School, that closed its doors in 2000, is now a restaurant/car restoration garage/Mennonite Church. Yes, and while we had our burgers (which were very good, by the way) services were being held in the screened off section of the retired cafeteria and a number of classic machines were sitting in the back part of the building awaiting final restoration. I heard later there was a Pantera to be found. Along the walls of the restaurant there were class photos from years back. They were worth perusing for the hairstyles alone. The things you run into on these Backroads Rallies, I tell ya!

We continued on our route making the one real “Mysterious America” stop at the Four Quarters Interfaith Sanctuary. Here they have been raising, by human power alone, giant monolithic standing stones for a few dozen years. It’s like a Stonehenge in the Pennsylvania woods. Think Druids meet Hippies meet Hipsters. I believe I was the only one to actually go witness this, but Seymour asked me to go, and I rarely say no when he does. The day’s ride then sped up Route 26, one of the most twistalicious roads in these parts of Pennsylvania. Somehow, along the way Shira found some of the others and some roadside ice cream as well. How does she do that? Right about then I got a text with a picture of what looked to be a Concours-14 rear tire patched with…. duct tape? Interesting. We’d find out about that later. We made one more sidetrack to find the “The Abandoned Pennsylvania Turnpike.” When the Pennsylvania Turnpike opened in 1940, it was known as the “Tunnel Highway” because it passed through seven separate tunnels running the road through the mountains. To make things easier and cheaper the state simply used the existing tunnels from the old South Pennsylvania Railroad. Because of this the highway was reduced to a single lane in each direction to pass through each tunnel. This quickly became a bottleneck nightmare.

Page 35 Near Breezewood, Pennsylvania you can still find a 13-mile section of the old highway, complete with tunnels that have been left to go back to nature after a congestion-lessening byway was created. Today bicyclists and joggers use what is left of the old section as well as being used in a post-apocalyptical movie called The Road, by the U.S. Military to train troops for Desert Storm, and the EPA using this old piece of lost highway for fuel, emissions and rumble strip testing. This lost road may be retired, but still gets plenty of work. It was worth the short hike off the Lincoln Highway. Although the route this day was a stunner it did lack a goodly number of fueling opportunities. Imagine that. A full day’s ride in the Mid-Atlantic part of the United States, from central West Virginia up through Maryland and into central PA, and no gas to be found. I guess that is why we call the magazine Backroads. We found fuel in Breezewood and now, fully gassed, we continued back on the pre-planned route with rights and lefts being fed to us via Sena Bluetooth by the GPS. This Fiesta had really hit the mark as far as the weather, and road-wise as well., This day was great as well, as we made our way north along some truly impressive scenery and pavement. And, fortunately for us, all these smallish farm roads and wooded cut-through lanes kept on coming all the way into town, keeping the fun going almost into the hotel’s parking lot! By late summer sunset those that were coming to Shippensburg had rolled into the lot behind the historic hotel - most with great grins on their faces. Once again we overwhelmed the University Grill’s solo-bartender (next time we will insist on back-up) and it is most excellent and gratifying for both Shira and I to see that the 2015 Fall Fiesta Rally had brought together so many great people, from so many places. Sometimes the two of us just stop and watch it all just happen. Hey, we had a half dozen Canadians and a Brit this time around! Almost an international affair. Some riders did ask why we don’t have more seminars like some of the other rallies. Well, we have in the past (Paul Donoghue’s GPS Seminar was a huge hit last year), but this rally we had what we like to call “Rolling Seminars.” Yes, indeedy, if you were paying attention you could have attended seminars on a wide variety of things. For instance, we had Rolling Seminars on such varied topics as “Lost Road Design & Architecture,” “Duct Tape-Tire Repair Made Easy,” “Ancient Standing Stones & Odd Markers,” “How to Ride 50 Miles on a Half a Cup of Fuel” (also known as “I think there is a gas station down this road”), “Touring the Gravel, Stone and Beat to Shit Roads on a Full Dress Touring Machine,” “How NOT to Pass Your Friends for Dummies!,” “Trusting Your GPS… or Not,” and the biggest seminar – “How To Have an Absolutely Fun & Deliciously Awesome Weekend on Your Motorcycle with Friends!” See you next year! (hint… look at the previous page for details)


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JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

BMW S1000 XR Germany’s Nuclear Option

BMW calls their new S1000 XR an “Adventure Sport” – that seems like the logical choice as it looks to be a great blending of the S1000 RR sport machine and the venerable R1200 GS. In truth it is more sport than adventure bike. Still this combination works nicely, but it also bears a close resemblance to another such machine from Italy. That being said how many cruisers look a lot like bikes from Milwaukee? Although one of BMW’s S-series, the fourth machine in the BMW Motorrad line-up of high-power motorcycles, I came to ride this bike looking for a machine that is an all day ride, an explorer, and a bike that can go places and do that with style and speed - The SPORT in sport touring. I was not looking for or hoping for a track-based ride. We like to keep these reviews easy and more on how the machines actually perform, but it still helps to know exactly what sort of motorcycle we are talking about here. Powered by a chain-driven 999cc inline, liquid-cooled four cylinder engine that puts out a 160 horsepower at 11,000 rpm, (the RR has 199 ponies and 83 lb-ft of torque) the S1000 XR can be a beast – but it is not without its softer side. Like many other modern machines that have a fly-by-wire throttle, the new BMW has different power modes. Rain: which drops horsepower back to a “meager” 148 and gives the throttle a softer feel and adds full on traction control (DTC), Anti Spin Control (ASC) and anti-lock brakes (ABS) and basically takes the Kryptonite out of Mr. McTavish. Road: for your day-to-day riding, allowing the full horsepower (160) with DTC, ASC and ABS still active, but less so. Then there is what BMW calls Dynamic. dynamic: we can call it sport mode, and it basically unleashes the inner-child in the S1000 XR, lessening the electronic controls over the bike to a far greater degree with higher thresholds for more spirited riding. In all three of these previous modes front-wheel lift detection and rear-wheel lift detection are still active. Then there is what I like to call BMW’s Nuclear Option. dyna Pro: if Dynamic unleashed your inner-child, then this is your inner-child on Meth. For true hooligans there is a Dyna PRO, which needs an additional Coding Plug to be installed, and was “developed for dry roads with good visibility and very high friction coefficients, as they are usually found only on race tracks.”

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BACKROADS • JANUARY 2016 BMW also stresses to be riding solo and have tires with very good adhesion as it is unsuitable for wet conditions. Basically what Hyperbike would be without the electronic nannies, so operate thusly at your own risk. The frame is based on the SS, utilizing an aluminum-alloy perimeter frame in which the engine forms part of the load-bearing structure. The frame’s geometry has been change a bit for the new XR machine. The suspension, which uses conventional forks, rather than Telever, also has a number of modes, depending on whether you are carrying luggage, a passenger, or both. The newer version of this system has worked brilliantly on other BMW models. With its ADV DNA apparent, the XR has an upright sitting position that works for me and should allow for all day riding with no back strain or arm pain. At 33.1 inches, the height of the standard saddle might not be for everyone, but there are a few options available (at no charge). The high seat that raises the S1000 XR to 33.7 inches and a low option that brings it down to 32.3. inches, and when the lowered D-ESA option is combined with the lower seat, the S1000 XR seat height drops to 31.1 inches, making it more rider-friendly for many. BMW claims the weight of the XR to be a couple pounds over 500, giving it the power-to-weight ratio of a fighter jet! The machine rides on Bridgestone T-30s with a 190/55- 17 rear and a 120/70-17 up front. All that power and grip can be attenuated with two 320mm radially mounted four-piston calipers up front and a 265mm disc, 2-piston caliper stopping the back wheel. As with almost all BMWs (not the S1000 RR), luggage is available, but not at the time that we got to run this particular XR around the backroads of the northeast. Still, knowing BMW, these bags will offer a sport/adv/touring rider plenty of space to carry gear. Our ride did not have luggage available so we made

Page 37 do with a strap on tail pack. Not what I was used to, but it worked. This year the XR was available in red and light white, which really looked very sharp. The bike came ready for a Garmin GPS and, even though BMW has their own version, my 665 unit popped in instantly and worked as usual. This cradle, from BMW, is more basic and allows for you to use the Garmin’s audio out plug unlike the previous BMW mount. As I alluded to the riding position, upright like a puppy begging, worked for me. I long ago decided that this sitting position was better all around for comfort and endurance; the saddle, not so much. Where as the R1200 RS’ saddle had, pretty much, all day comfort, the XR seat was a bit confining and a bit harsh at the end of the day. The noticeably tapered handlebars seem to be at just the right height, width and position. Although our XR, with its instruments lifted from the RR machine, had most of the bells and whistles that you have come to expect from BMW, like heated grips and other dashboard amenities, it did lack some other noticeable features – most notedly a temperature gauge. I know the bike is aimed towards the Go Fast crowd, but I would have opted for more, clearer and useful information than the flashing LED light that is letting me know it is time to shift. I know it was easy to go to the parts bin on this, but for a machine that can cost $20K it should have had proprietary and more useful instruments.


Page 38 On the road…. This BMW has what I like to call The Snarl Factor. Thumb the starter button and the engine burst into life –with a throaty snarl. Don’t confuse The Snarl Factor with loud, obnoxious and aurally attacking. The XR sounds serious, in your face, but not hard on the ears. It’s all in the tone, not volume. Snicking it into first and then up through the gears for the first time, the XR showed me something I had never experienced before on a Beemer - a slick, smooth and very together gearbox. The R division needs to take the S division out to lunch and talk. The four-cylinder engine works almost docilely at low and medium revs, with very little twist it purred smoothly along the backroads. For a motorcycle with such powerful potential it is easy, fun and a pleasure to ride around town or on a week long tour. Give it a bit more urging and the XR wakes up, the beast comes out of the box and the S1000 XR’s true nature lunges out to play with an incredible amount of pulling power and jaw-dropping acceleration as the tachometer climbs. The S1000 XR has a small adjustable windscreen that worked well in either position, and the combination of seating position, saddle and shield worked well for me most of the day, although the saddle and shield would quickly be upgraded if an XR lived in the barn. As advertised the S1000 XR has bookoo power – more than I would ever need. But, for the Go Faster crowd, it is a happy world. My first time out with the XR I kept it in Road and switched over to Rain in some tighter roads and the difference is very apparent. It seemed as if it would be hard to get into many problems with Rain. I am sure we could – but there is a reason it’s called Rain.

JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS Road was a very decent ride and a number of roll ons showed Road to be adequate enough for me – thank you very much. After getting a bit more acquainted with the electronic controls I gave Dynamic a try and was not disappointed. Dyna Pro? This is a very, very quick motorcycle. Our tester also came with Pro Gear Shift Assistant, which allows for seamless up shifting and down shifting without having to use the clutch. I can hear the luddites screaming, but it does works and allows for far quicker and smoother shifts. A quick close of the throttle and shift. Done. Wow, next thing they will have movies that talk. Our S1000 XR also came with Dynamic ESA – Electronic Suspension, Adjustment – also with Road and Dynamic choices. The big radially mounted Brembo brakes worked incredibly well, scrubbing off speed smoothly and with feeling. All that power does come with a buzzy price, as the handlebars run a tepid drone through your hands at a steady pace on the road. One of the bike’s few flaws. Although the saddle does not allow you to move around a great deal, it still was comfortable fit-wise after a long day, but the padding was on the hard side. The 5.2 gallon fuel cell can offer decent miles between fuel stops, but if you ride more aggressively the bike will sip that fuel far faster. The Bottom Line… The BMW S1000 XR is a direct answer to Ducati’s Multistrada and you can also put Kawasaki’s Versys 1000 LT and the Suzuki V-Strom in that mix– with far less dire results on the wallet. Our test machine came in at over $19 grand – and that was without bags – so figure 20K for the whole package. But, you get what you pay for and the BMW S1000 XR is a beast of a sport adventure machine – with all day comfort. Don’t consider it a GS, or anything close to that, as this is a street machine and although you can ride anything in the dirt, some bikes are more comfortable on the road. This is such a machine. It likes the pavement. Add in the luggage, maps, a few free weeks and the open road and the riding adventures with the S1000 XR are just beginning.


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2016

Page 39

THE VERSATILE GIVI TOP CASE A BRACKET FOR ALMOST EVERYBODY… The BMW S1000 XR - a fine machine that is going after, what we call, the exploro-tourer market (there is a market for every whim). An interesting combination of pure sports machine and the upright and reasonable riding position, as well as luggage available for it. Unfortunately this press machine did not have said luggage. We strapped a soft tail bag onto the back to help carry around camera and other necessities, but really wished we had a bit more room for day-to-day riding of the XR. When parked in the barn the XR was lined up with our R1200 GS, with its GIVI top case, which happens to have white accents, the same color as our tester machine. It then occurred to us that three of the four machines that live in the barn all have GIVI Monokey brackets on their tails and we currently have three different top case bags that will snap on tight and secure on any of these machines. I put in a call to GIVI and ordered a bracket for the new BMW S1000 XR.

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ask about our Tour cycle Program – the Ultimate in coverage A week or so later we received a Fed-Ex package with the bracket – a beautifully machined piece of aluminum complete with all the hardware and, surprise, clear instructions… for spacers, screws and locking nylon nuts. I lined up all the pieces in neat grouping, and made sure I knew what went where, and installation of this piece of art bracket, which sold for $195, took under 10 minutes; an easy investment of time and cash. I then removed my GIVI top case, that I have been using for years, and snapped it on the BMW S1000 XR. With the white accents on both bike and bags perfectly matching it looked like a stock part of the bike. The BMW went from a day canyon carver to weekend warrior in a snap. The large GIVI case easily holding a few days worth of gear. If you have multiple machines and like to pick and choose what bike you want to ride at any particular time then take a look at what GIVI has to offer. With their multitude of bike options one top case can be used for your entire fleet. Log onto www.giviusa.com to see sizes, applications and prices.

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JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

AIMExpo 2015 Time for Alternate Universe. Long time readers might remember this section of Backroads, when we use Dr. Seymour O’Life Alternator Machine (Based on Professor Peabody’s Way Back) to take a look at what might be or could happen. Let’s start with what has happened – so many times. Bobby and Renee have been looking forward to the Bike Show. They haven’t been able to go the last few years as the show dates had moved around and what used to be a show in late January, after the mayhem of the family holidaze, is now being held a few weeks before Christmas. Between parties, shopping and family it was impossible to grab even a short afternoon free. Add into this the chance of a blizzard during the show (which snowed them there one weekend) and the fact that hotel rooms and parking prices are off the chart and transportation slows down to a chilly and miserable crawl around the city at this time of year and it just ain’t fun for these kids. When push came to shove they just stayed home and, once again, they and many others missed out or chose not to attend what was once the high point of the motorcycle off-season.

Meanwhile in an alternate universe… Bobby and Renee have been looking forward to this new bike show in Florida, the American International Motorcycle Expo, or simply the AIMExpo, for a while now. Sure they would have to travel a bit to get there but, in truth, an early flight to Orlando, Florida from their local airport took about as much time as the traffic jammed journey into Gotham, was far less stressful and was a bit more of a fun adventure. Battling “Big City” traffic is never an adventure, but more an ordeal. Money-wise taking in parking, tolls, hotel, dinner, drinks and maybe dessert and such - it worked out about the same. And, where once this couple had to choose family holiday gatherings over their motorcycle desires, this time around – in mid October – their dance card was empty. Florida here we come. Heck, they even considered just riding to Biketoberfest in Daytona and then making a day trip over to Orlando for AIMExpo. But, the airfares were cheap, as were the billions of hotel rooms in Orlando – unlike the short supply and crazed prices for anything back north in frigid Gotham. Yep, it made far more sense to jet down (2 hours from NYC) to the warmer Floridian climes and to attend the AIMExpo with its hundreds of industry vendors and dozens of happenings and seminars. It was almost a no brainer. So that is what Bobby and Renee did…. And, so did we. In Europe big shows like EICMA, in Milan, Italy and Intermot in Germany highlight new model entries and feature products specifically aimed at the twowheel market. These shows are huge and bring in droves of both industry insiders and the riding population.


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2016

Page 41 Almost every manufacturer was there, in addition to hundreds of vendors and retailers featuring the newest in motorcycle gear, products and ideas. Along with these booths you would also find experts and factory representatives ready, willing and happy to show you what is new and innovative with their products. If it is part of the motorcycle industry or related services you will most likely find it here at the AIMExpo, It is everything you want the “other” show to be but is not. But, the best part was that, unlike the previous in-

The big question for so many years was - why didn’t America have something like this? For a number of years one company did have an industry show in the mid-west, but their last event fell short of expectations and their other regional shows, that have been circling the USA for the past number of years, have begun a sliding downward trend of attendance from industry vendors, manufacturers and the public. But now, in answer to this question, we have the AIMExpo. Now in its third year The American International Motorcycle Expo was created to fill a void that was becoming more and more apparent in the motorcycle industry in the United States. Each October the motorcycle industry takes over a good portion of the Orange County Convention Center in Orlando, Florida and, in just three years, the AIMExpo has easily become North America powersports industry’s largest event. We missed the first, but attended last year and were impressed. This year we were back and we were blown away. There is so much to seek, discover and learn at the American International Motorcycle Expo.

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dustry show held in the snow-filled cold of the Midwest in February (next door to Superman’s Fortress of Solitude) that catered to and was open only to industry motorcycle-related businesses and the media, the AIMExpo is open to the general public as well. The first two days of the four-day event are specifically for the motorcycle industry – but Saturday and Sunday the doors are open to all and it is well worth making the effort to come to Orlando in October. Many did, but sadly many did not. These next comments about the 2015 AIMExpo are directed at all our friends at the local shops, dealership and related motorcycle businesses….


Page 42

JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS Where were you? In truth we saw only a handful of the many shop owners we deal with down at the AIMExpo. Those we did see are obviously enlightened as “they get it” and know that if the industry is to continue to grow, events like the AIMExpo need their support; and if they want their shops, dealerships and businesses to grow as well they need to invest some time to do so. It is a business no-brainer. We would hope, now that the American international Motorcycle Expo has proven itself to be such a significant player for the motorcycle industry, not only in the USA, but in all of the Western Hemisphere, that each and every dealership, that is serious about moving forward and offering their customers the very newest, best and innovative products, would invest the small change it takes to send down a representative, or two, to walk the aisles, talk to the vendors, see what is new and fresh and really be part of this great industry and everything new it has to offer. I know that it took us a full day to walk the Expo and then another day just to visit the vendors and manufacturers that really caught our eye the first time through. Your customers, your business and our industry are worth the time to come to Orlando.

In the meantime we found even more to do down in Orlando, as AIMExpo Outdoors! had its massive parking lots full, with Honda, Yamaha, Star, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Can-Am, KYMCO, Zero and Harley Davidson all offering street demo rides, while, at the same time, Arctic Cat, BRP, Honda, Massimo Motors, Suzuki, KYMCO and Yamaha were offering off-road demos of ATVs and side-by-sides on a closed dirt tack. Being a street oriented touring magazine we thought that would be fun to spin some dirt and I took a turn with some of the off-road machines from Arctic Cat and found them to be very, very exciting. Other events were taking place at the AIMExpo including the American Motorcyclist Association’s Hall of Fame Inductee Awards, as well at MotoAmerica Road Racing Night of Champions that showcased their 2015 MotoAmerica AMA/FIM North American Road Racing Champions. If you have longed for a real US Road Racing Series, well it is here and it is called MotoAmerica.

Many things have changed in the past few years for the motorcycle industry and not all of it has been bad. A new event like the American International Motorcycle Expo is one of the best things that has been brought forth for the motorcycling community in a long time and a real shot in the arm for an industry and sport that was almost floundering; just when it needed it most. It is our thought and hope that the Motorcycle Industry Council, who now owns this show, and the folks at AIMExpo find a way to bring their own version of these shows to different venues around the nation. They already have this big one in Florida and the idea that an expo of this caliber and value could come New York and other cities certainly would bring us in. If it is still going to be the same old / same old, as the last few years in New York at Christmas time, well then book my Jet Blue flight to Florida now. So, I have to ask you… what are you doing next October 13 through 16th? We hope to see you at AIMExpo 2016.


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2016

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POP-UP SHOP

needed on the pavement. Tough, armored and stylish you can see them at any major touring or riding rally. It’s nice to wear a fully-armored and waterproof riding suit, that is tough as titanium, and be able to quickly take it off and look like a civilian, in just seconds. These days the Aerostich Company, located in Duluth, Minnesota, continues to make innovated changes and to add more gear to their expansive catalog - which is the coolest motorcycle gear catalog… period. We stopped by the Pop Up Event on our way to Chincoteague, Virginia and got to peruse the racks of new Roadcrafter, Darien and other suits. They had just about every color and combination and a wide selection of sizes to get an idea what would work best for you. While we were there, a number of riders were being measured for suits

Back in October Aerostich, creators of some of the toughest rider’s wear on the planet, opened a ‘Pop Up’ store just outside of Philadelphia, in the town of Westmont, for five days. Trucking in dozens of suits, jackets, pants, boots and gloves, northeast riders were able to try on, check out and have custom sizing done, by factory reps, to order their own personalized suits. For those of you who know not of the famed Roadcrafter suits they were created years back by Andy Goldfine (they opened in 1983) and redefined the direction of motorcycle riding gear. Imagine a riding suit that was stylish, easy to work with and that allowed you, when your friends are packed under an overpass trying to put on gawkish rain suits, to ride on by – safe, comfortable and dry! Andy did, and made motorcycle apparel history. The new suit, dubbed the Roadcrafter, was very quick and easy to get on and off, and light enough to wear over regular clothing. Created with GoreTex breathable membranes and Cordura nylon fabrics they could be worn all year round, basically laughed at rain and came though when and if Worth the ride from anywhere!

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JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

I KNOW THIS PLACE…

The loG cabin 47 Us 46, colUmbia, nJ 07832 • 908-496-4291 When many ride along the Route 46 in New Jersey, especially the eastern end, riders will get put off by the strip mall Americazation it has become. But to the west, things are different. First off this highway lies completely within the state of New Jersey, running for some 75 miles, making it the shortest signed, non-spur U.S. Highway. Here on its far western side you will find a road that harkens back to the famed roads found elsewhere in United States history. The famed Route 66 might cross the nation, but it is a parody of itself with fake diners and roadside attractions. Route 46 in western Jersey is the real deal. And it doesn’t get more real than the pizza at The Log Cabin. We have feature The Log Cabin a few years back, but a recent visit reminded us that this could very well be “THE” place to stop if you are looking for some serious pizza.

We took a seat on a glorious fall Sunday afternoon and ordered a pie. We thought for the extra buck we’d get a large. They should say ginormous! You can get all the usual toppings, but we compromised with Shira choosing sausage and me going for pepperoni - we both agreed on mushrooms. The pies at The Log cabin are big in every way. The circumference, the crust, which is thick, crunchy and flavorful and the sauce is superb. The toppings are not your typical offering but the real deal sausage in big tasty chunks and good slices of mushrooms. All of it brought together by the maestro inside. We took half of the pie home. Riders out here are well familiar with The Log Cabin and on a nice day there will always be some motorcycles outside. If you are in the region and looking for a bite to eat The Log Cabin’s Pizza is one of the best there is. Make sure you have room in a top case to bring some home. If you ‘know this place,’ email text and high resolution images to editor@backroadsusa.com. It’s nice to share.

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Page 45

and discussing what would be the best options for them regarding gear, color and size. Aerostich had brought in racks of gear and motorcycles so riders could don various suits and sit on a machine in a real riding position to get a better feel for how comfortable the Aerostich gear really is. We spoke with Paul Pelland, better known as Long Haul Paul, who was helping out for the day. Paul, a New Hampshire resident and former long distance motorcycle competitor who was diagnosed with Multiple Sclerosis in 2005, is riding to bring awareness and inspire others with or without MS to find ways to follow their dreams and passions. You can find out more on Paul and his ride at longhaulpaul.com. For the short time we were there we saw a good number of motorcycles pull up and the staff seemed to be doing a brisk business. We ran into friends, Ed & Sindee who had travelled hundreds of miles that day so Ed could get custom measured for a new Roadcrafter. Of course there were a few Mr. Happy puppets on hand (that’s where they come from…) and our Hap and sidekick Pepe, had a great time hanging with them as well. This store was only around for a few days, but we hope that Aerostich does this again and often as we really like seeing a company as serious about riders as Aerostich making the effort to come to our region. To find out more and to see all that Aerostich has to offer call them at 800222-1994 or log onto their website at www.aerostich.com.

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Page 46

JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

BUG BITES BEWARE Larry Barasch In early July I took a 10-day, 2,000 mile ride up to and around Maine. A few of my friends and I rented a house in Eustis, ME and did day trips to Moosehead Lake, Lac Megantic, Quebec, and everywhere in-between. On arriving in Eustis, ME, I apparently became lunch meat for a few hungry insects (I think, but not sure.) I am sharing this experience, along with the pictures, not to gross you out, but to help educate if you’re ever in my shoes. I did not notice the 5 or 6 bug bites for a day or so. After several hours, the bug bites spread out, my leg started swelling up, and you can faintly make out the pink infection line starting to run up my shin bone. I had another one running from my lower rear calf just up behind my knee, which I wasn’t even aware of. At its worst, the infection which started down around my ankle, got about mid-way up my thigh, and I was told if it got into the groin area, it would become systemic and spread to my lungs, heart, brain, etc. through the body’s super-highway of veins & arteries. When that happens, you’re basically toast.

Against the advice of my fellow riders and others in the know, I ignored this and kept about my business. During the ensuing day, the infection edged up a few inches every couple of hours, was warm to the touch and started getting ugly. My friend Mac graciously escorted me to the Rangely Family Medical Center, where the physician promptly advised me of my case of cellulitis (blood poisoning) and told me to get to a hospital emergency room ASAP, for fear of losing my leg, or worse. She may have been somewhat melodramatic, but in retrospect I’ve learned this is a serious condition. An hour later we arrived at Franklin Memorial Hospital in Farmington, ME. I was admitted to the emergency room and promptly had an IV drip of Clindamycin antibiotics plugged into my arm. Fortunately, I did not need to spend the evening at this fine establishment. I was back on the road heading home with Mac within a couple of hours with a 7-day pill prescription of the same medication. Doc told me to stay off the bike (ugggh!) and to keep my leg elevated. So I lost 2 days of riding time due to this issue, rested up and had everyone on the trip looking out for me. All my riding buddies are stand up guys, and Mac’s company throughout this, and my friend Wally’s medical advice (a retired Army RN) and constant checking up on me was a Godsend. My leg looked at its worst, which was actually right before it started getting better, as the ER doctor predicted.


BACKROADS • JANUARY 2016

Page 47

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JANUARY 2016 • BACKROADS

UP C OM I N G E VE NT S CAL END AR JANUARY 2016 8-10 • North American International Motorcycle Show, Toronto International Centre, 6900 Airport Rd, Mississauga, ON, Canada. Fri: noon-10pm, Sat: 10am-9pm, Sun: 10am-5pm. Admission: $20, free parking • www.motorcycleshpershow.ca 16-17 • 98th Anniversary Crotona Midnight Run sponsored by Ramapo Motorcycle Club. Sign in: RMC Clubhouse/Veterans Memorial, 66 Lake Rd, Congers, NY. Signin: 10:30pm - Midnight key time. $20/rider $10/passenger. Longest running motorcycle road rally in the USA. Timed run following a designated route overnight with a mid-point respite for warmth, refreshments and comradery. ramapomc.org

FEBRUARY 2016 12-14 • Timonium Motorcycle Show, Maryland State Fairgrounds, Timonium, MD. Friday and Saturday, February 12th and 13th 10am – 9pm and Sunday, February 14th 10am – 6pm. For more information, go to www.cycleshow.net or call 410561-7323.

MARCH 2016 4-5 • The 6th edition of the widely acclaimed Modern Classics Motorcycle Show returns at Martin Motorsports in Boyertown, PA. The Modern Classics features a stunning selection of great motorcycles from the 1960s, 70s, 80s, and the early 90s in a once-a-year indoor show,Boyertown, PA. For 2016 Modern Classics will highlight motocross, trials, and enduro bikes blended with the usual wide variety of special motorcycles from that era. The event consists of the Friday evening “Kick Start” party and Saturday’s impressive “museum for a day.” For more information or to learn how to nominate your classic bike for inclusion go to www.modernclassicsbikeshow.com

APRIL 2016 16 • Spring Open House, Morton's BMW Motorcycles, 5099A Jefferson Davis Highway, Fredericksburg, VA 22408. Come join hundreds of motorcycle enthusiasts for a day of demo rides, door prizes, barbecue, vendors, music, and much more! More vendors especially welcome! Details at www.mortonsbmw.com or call 540-8919844. 28-May 1 • Horizons Unlimited Virginia Travellers Meeting, Appomattox, VA. Near historic Appomattox, hundreds of world-traveling motorcyclists will gather for a weekend dedicated to overland travel. Enjoy travel presentations, seminars. workshops, vendors, off-road training, ride-outs, great food, and wonderful camaraderie in a comfortable and scenic lakeside setting. Details at www.horizonsunlimited.com/events/virginia-2016

MAY 2016 15 • Ramapo Motorcycle Club Spring Fun Run. Sign in/Endsite: Shodes North Tavern, 40 Orange Tpke (Rte 17) Sloatsburg, NY • 9am til mid-afternoon. To benefit Helen Hayes Rehabilitation Hospital. A designated route along some of the Hudson Valley’s most interesting roads, with stops for poker/dice/scrabble or other games, with a chance to win prizes, while supporting a worthy cause. ramapomc.org 14-15 • New Sweden 450. Sign in: Cycle Gear, 2070 Rte. 70 E, Cherry Hill, NJ • 8:3010am. $50 pre-reg/$60 day of event. 450 miles of amazing roads, camping, dinner and breakfast and finishing patches. 450.nsbmwr.com for more info. 13-15 • Thompson Speedway Motorsports Park hosts Historic Oval Invitation for vintage racecars and the Thompson Vintage Motorcycle Classic featuring on-track activities, massive Swap Meet Marketplace, Manufacturer’s Midway Vendor, Antique Motorcycle Show and much more • www.thompsonspeedway.com

2015/16 POLAR BEAR RUN For full details and updates, visit www.polarbeargrandtour.com

2016 January 3 • De THOMASI’s EAST 5 POINTS INN, 580 Tuckahoe Rd & Landis Ave., Vineland, NJ 08360 Ph 856-691-6080 • www.fivepointsinn.com January 10 • UPSTREAM GRILLE, 161 Rte. 181, Lake Hopatcong, NJ 07849 Ph 973663-2222 • www.upstreamgrille.com January 17 • LAGO, 230 Washington Place, North Brunswick TWP, NJ. 08902 Ph 732 297-3803 • www.LagoNJ.com January 24 • THE EXCHANGE, 160 E. Main St., Rockaway, NJ 07866 Ph 973-6278488 • www.exchangefood.com January 31 • THE FRANKLIN HOUSE TAVERN, 101 North Market Street, Schaefferstown, PA 17088 Ph. # 717 949-2122. February 7 • 7 • RIVERTON HOTEL 7758 Martins Creek Belvidere Hwy Bangor, PA 18013 Ph 610-498-4241 • www.rivertonhotel.com February 14 • HOOTERS, 25 Rte 23 South, Wayne, NJ 07470 Ph 973-837-1876 • www.hootersnj.com February 21 • BAHRS LANDING, 2 Bay Ave., Highlands, NJ 07732 PH 732-872-1245 • www.bahrs.com February 28 • LIGHTHOUSE TAVERN, 397 Route 9 Waretown, NJ 08758 Ph 609-6933150 • lighthousetavern.com March 6 • LONG VALLEY PUB & BREWERY, 1 Fairmount Rd., Long Valley, NJ 07853 Ph 908-876-1122 • www.restaurantvillageatlongvalley.com March 13 • THE CHATTERBOX, #1 Rte 15 South, Augusta, NJ 07822 Ph 973-3002300 • www.chatterboxdrivein.com March 20 • BRIAN’S HARLEY-DAVIDSON, 600 S. Flowers Mill Rd., Langhorne PA 19047 Ph 215 752-9400 • www.brianshd.com April 3 • THE HICKORY BBQ SMOKEHOUSE, 743 Route 28, Kingston, NY 12401 Ph 845-338-2424 • www.hickoryrestaurant.com April 10 • CHEEBURGER CHEEBURGER 336 Northampton St., Easton, PA 18042 Ph 610-438-1311 April 17 • CAPE MAY V.F.W. Post #386, N.J. 419 Congress St., Cape May, N.J. 08204 Ph 609-884-7961 April 23 • END OF THE SEASON GET-TOGETHER - At The Pic-a-Lilli Inn, starting @ 11:30 AM. The rain date would be April 30, 2016; same time. Cost to Members: $6.00 per person. There will be salad, Wings, Beef, rolls, and lemonade, plus a cash bar. You must get an arm band from your flight leader.

20-22 •Morton’s BMW Motorcycle Spring Fling Rally. For full details check their website: www.mortonsbmw.com 20-22 • 2nd Annual Red Knights Motorcycle Club Yankee Rally. Open to any Red Knight members. Bolero Resort, Wildwood, NJ. More information available: www.facebook.com/events/802996773124582 or visit www.redknightsmc.com 26-30 • BACKROADS SPRING BREAK. Four days of incredible riding and fun, with overnights in historic hotels in Pennsylvania and New York state. For complete information please see page 44.

JUNE 2016 7-11 • Americade Motorcycle Rally. The Best Roads. The Most Motorcycle Companies. The Most Welcoming Rally. Lake George, NY. Special Pre-Registrant events Monday, June 6. www.americade.com • 518-798-7888 11-19 • Laconia Motorcycle Week, Laconia, NH. America’s Original Riding Rally. One of the Big 3 • www.laconiamcweek.com • 603-366-2000

JULY 2016 9-10 • 40th Annual Running of the Ramapo 500™. Sign in/Endsite: Rhodes north Tavern, 40 Orange Tpke (Rte. 17) Sloatsburg, NY @ 7am. $35 advanced reistration/$50 day of event. Two-day 500-mile gorgeous ride with free camping with pool, Sat. dinner, Sun. breakfast, awards and prizes, starter pins and finisher patches. GPS route upload service for add’l fee. ramapomc.org

SEPTEMBER 2016 22-25 • BACKROADS FALL FIESTA Full details page 34 or www.backroadsusa.com

OCTOBER 2016 Ramapo MC Fall Foliage Tour. Sign in/Endsite: Rhodes north Tavern, 40 Orange Tpke (Rte. 17) Sloatsburg, NY @ 9am-mid-afternoon. Guided/self-guided tour featuring the best autumn pallet Mother Nature can provide along some of the Hudson Valley’s most interesting roads. Benefits Valerie Fund. ramapomc.org

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