January 2023

(ISSN 1087-2088) is

monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2023.

BACKROADS™

not be

manner without

c written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only

material with enclosed suf cient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip &Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

MOTO PORN

Like many people, I tend to be on the computer and the web far more this time of year compared to the warmer months when, like all good riders, we’d be out riding. But, even with the electrics, climate change making the riding seasons warmer and longer (see it’s not all bad), and my constant desire to take my bike everywhere… I still spend far too much time where I am right now; in front of a large iMac tapping away at a keypad so old I had to re-mark the keys.

Like most of you, I get inundated with all sorts of stuff, scam, and silliness; and like most of you, I have learned long ago to quickly dispatch said Triple Ss. But I also have developed and latched onto a few sites that I nd enticing, curvaceous, exciting, tempting, and seductive. Like some of those adult sites that I once read about. Really.

Although sometimes, when at the keyboard, I am a little too busy to dive deep into these sites; then there are other times I go brew a deep, dark and avorful coffee and dive right in. You never know what will show up as you scroll through these sites.

I got dreams to remember – Otis Redding

When I was a teen growing up in Queens, New York – along with Spider-Man, the Ramones, and the New York Mets - there was not much going as far as places to dirt ride and to ride legally was never going to happen.

Where many of you who were raised in the burbs or what we admiringly called the country, seemed to have miles of trails to ride and, just as importantly, parents who seem to encourage you to get out and do just that.

Where I lived the trail was the narrow bit of dirt in between the 30th Avenue exit on the Brooklyn Queens Expressway and St. Michael’s Cemetery. The riders who seemed to show up each afternoon were of 2.5 kinds. The Jackson Heights crowd – mostly middle-class – would be riding Honda SL70 and Yamaha GT60s. To my 12-year-old eyes, these seemed to be real motorcycles. The second component of the 2.5 were the other kids - upper lower class as my Mom would say euphemistically call us - that hobbled together some old lawn motor engine into a crappy tubular frame – the Rupp Roadster-style mini-bike or worse.

The .5 of the equation was me. Although I think my mom, given the chance, would have been out of Queens and to the country in a second, my step-father would never have it. Mini-bikes, motorcycles?

Never gonna happen.

Hell, he did not even have a driver’s license; so my dreams of owning any machine as a kid were just that – dreams.

Almost daily I see email messages come in for Bring a Trailer, Iconic Motorcycles, Bike-urious, and the like. These sites have a daily serving of some very interesting machines, gear, and motorcycle-related bits and bobs.

Half a century later my situation has changed… just a bit.

Yet these sites – moto porn for the longing rider and would-be rider – tempt us each day like a Siren calling out to us through an open Yoshimura exhaust.

The man behind Bike-urious and Iconic Motorbikes, Abhi Eswarappa, Continued on Page 7

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN

SHIRA KAMIL

UNCLUTTER YOUR MIND

We have gotten through another trip around the sun and it was a good one. Lots of road trips, time spent with family and friends, and taking care of the iron horses we call our therapy.

I nd the end of a calendar year can be quite frenetic, between the holiday barrage and the mundane acts of end-of-year business paperwork. That December 31st date seems to come barreling up much faster than expected, like the missed exit on the interstate.

Brian has said many times that I am an overthinker, that I let simple, easy acts and decisions take over my mind. I certainly do have triggers that set off the gremlins in my head – dentist appointments and IRS interventions come to mind. My mild OCD will wreak havoc when it intrudes on my day – just today, when nished with my workout at the gym and waiting for Brian, I had to organize the magazine rack (which has material dating back many years) that was offending my sense of order.

There are many places, other than one’s mind, that clutter can affect the way things work. The other day Brian and I were speaking about the new motorcycles that have come out. The manufacturers have incorporated a lot of technology into these bikes, some helpful and some not so much. It’s been asked on several new motorcycle press launches, actually one of the rst questions when shown the motorcycle, are you Android or Apple?

The connectivity that occurs between one’s phone and the motorcycle has become just another bit of clutter that takes away from the concentration needed to operate the vehicle. This certainly can be said about car drivers – texting, phone calls, nding the right music, etc – but more and more it has taken over the minds of the motorcycle rider. 30 years ago, when I started riding, the intrusions on a rider’s brain

were minimal. Yes, we had music via Walkman and such, but the matter of directions was fairly simple: get out a map, jot down a few notes and head out for your adventure. There was no pairing of headsets to a phone, GPS and other riders. Once you strapped on the helmet, you were in your own world.

Brian used an article in The Backroads Report (our weekly e-newsletter – you DO get it, right?) stating that the motorcycle hand signals were becoming a fading language. Sure, a very large percentage of riders opt for Bluetooth communications, especially if they are often riding with others, and it is very simple to just tell your riding buddy that you’re stopping/turning/hungry/need gas than using the appropriate hand signal. The point made in the article was that the hand signal is a bit more than just a method of conveying a message but also helps to make you and the motorcycle more visible to the car drivers around you, letting them know what you are doing.

Getting back to that Bluetooth mounted on your helmet; there have been one or two tours that we’ve been on where the tour guides wanted all the riders to be connected. You think it’s distracting to have just one riding partner inside your helmet, try having half a dozen or more randomly chattering, usually about NOTHING of importance. This is the ultimate in cluttering of the mind. Brian and I both turned that noise off, feigning a broken connection. The rest of the trip was blissfully silent.

Even though we do use our GPS fairly religiously – it does make an intricate route much easier to follow than constantly glancing at the tank bag or stopping to consult a map. While I keep the voice low, I know many who turn it off completely and just glance at the screen to make sure they are still on course – similar to index cards in tank bag with a modern twist.

Brian and I have our varying modes of Bluetooth connection, which certainly are a blessing and a curse. Invariably, we will sound like

WHATCHATHINKIN’

ON THE MARK

MARK BYERS

THE PRINCE(SS) ANDTHE PEA

In the Hans Christian Andersen story, a queen put a pea under a combination of twenty mattresses and twenty eiderdown beds to see if a young woman could feel it and therefore, was a real princess worthy of her son. According to the story, even through all that padding, the lady felt the presence of the bedding contaminant and got no sleep, assuring the queen that she was worthy of the prince’s hand. This reminds me of motorcycling…how?

If you have ever gone on a ride of almost any distance from thirty minutes to multiple hours, you know that any contaminant, imperfection, or ill t in your riding gear can be ampli ed over time to be a major annoyance. For example, my track leathers have a small, hard piece near the wrist zipper that despite my best efforts, cannot be corrected. It causes abrasion and becomes a bigger distraction the longer I ride. I work around it by wearing a long-sleeve, wicking shirt under my leathers that keeps it from contacting my wrist. That shirt is so important that a couple years ago at VIR, I had to send Betsy to get me another one when I forgot it.

Ever get even the tiniest pebbles in your boot? I have no idea how they make their way past all those closures and velcro, but they do and one not much bigger than a grain of sand will feel like a boulder over time, poking into your psyche until you invariably have to stop and dump that sucker. Even without a pebble, a boot with a hot-spot that impinges on

your ankle or instep will become the equivalent of the iron boot of the Spanish Inquisition if you give it long enough. I’ve gone so far as to stuff a softball into a boot to push out a particularly annoying crease so I can tolerate wearing them again (it works).

Arai helmets had a tag line in their advertising: “Never wear a onehour helmet on an eight-hour ride.” Boy, is that true. I remember having a new - and very expensive - ip-front helmet (something Arai has yet to make) and wearing it for the rst time on a trip to Harper’s Ferry with friends. I had done my usual trial- t by wearing it in the house while watching TV and it didn’t appear to have any serious aws or t issues other than the snugness typical of a new helmet. Well, with wind pressure against the front, over time the rigidity of the energy-absorbing foam overcame the softness of the liner and created a hot spot the width of my forehead, about two inches above my eyes. It was like daggers being pushed into my forehead. Fortunately we were stopping frequently for photos and food or drink, so I was able to rest my painful noggin, but I considered drowning that lid in the Potomac. It went away soon after.

Gloves are another favorite place for the discomfort gremlins to assert themselves. A tiny crease in the palm, especially on the throttle side, will make your life miserable in a hurry. A less-than-artful seam on the inside will leave you with a red, abraded sore. Gloves are a particular problem of mine: they are invariably a little too long in the ngers if the palms t and if the ngers t, the palms are too tight. Then, after you sweat in them, they begin to become hard as rocks over time and are tough to put on. A travel trick is to get some lanolin hand lotion and go over those babies thoroughly. My most vexing problem is a winter or wet-weather glove with an inner liner that invariably turns inside out when

BACKLASH

Hey Brian and Shira....

Just getting around to reading the December Backroads issue this morning. As I’m reading it I’m thinking that the quality of each issue just keeps getting better (I don’t think I’m mistaken but even the thickness and quality of the actual paper feels better). I thought to myself that I should really send you guys a complimentary note; then I got to Mysterious America column and the Bohack reference (that sealed the deal). I’m pretty sure I’m not the rst to tell you that Bohack was a grocery chain back in the day but that was the impetus to actually sit and write this note. Hope you guys have a great Christmas.

As always ride safe....

Your friend, Jerry Gambella

Seymour…

To Backroads, I received my December issue Saturday.  Really sorry to hear about the passing of your friend Bruce. Remember though that there is a little Seymour O’Life in all of us who enjoy this lifestyle. Merry Christmas and happy new year.

Drew Baskin

Hey guys, Hope all is well. Really enjoying the mag - thanks again for all your time and effort.

For some reason I think you guys are users of the Dark Sky app (and/ or website) and if so, I’m sure you are aware that its days are numbered. If not, please disregard and I apologize for wasting your time.

Have you found any websites and/or apps that you feel are suitable replacements? Dark Sky is, imho, the best out there, so I am really disappointed that it’s coming to an end. I haven’t found many others that predict, including dew points, the future as accurately as they do. Dew points are key for me as I believe they are a more accurate indicator of my potential sweat factor than humidity levels, but that’s just me When you get a chance, please let me know.

Thanks !

Michael W.

Morning Michael, Yup, well aware, as the heading every morning when we check the weather says ‘no longer supported after 1/1/23’.

The two apps that we look at are Weather Underground and The Weather Channel. WU doesn’t have the future radar, which TWC does, but they both have all the other stats that we, as riders, would look for.

Other than that, look out the window……

Dear Editors, Wow, many thanks for the “gift “of County Road 521, all the riding I do up that way and don’t know how I missed it. From central Jersey we ran up thru Hopewell to 579 to Bloomsbury, which was an awesome road all by itself, cut up main street to 519, breakfast at Zeeks place, then we hit 521. What a great road - Norman Rockwell small town vistas at every turn, lake views abound, twisty roads with multiple elevation changes, what more could a boy want? Beeped when we past your place, saw the Kaw in the driveway. Again, thanks for the heads up.

Anthony DiPietro

Barn Time

Hey Brian, With regard to Barn Time and uses of the magical tools you described, you neglected to mention one of the most important - The 10mm socket.  It is the major reason most of get exercise during the Dark Times. Garage or Barn yoga - which results in contortions and stretches when the aforementioned predictably rolls under the tool box, bench, out the door, under the car, through Stargate or into an alternate universe - the type where by the time you nd it- you have a goatee.

Tony Lisanti

Hi Backroads’ Kids, Oh, it happened, it certainly did. June 11, about 4:30/4:45 p.m. Main Street, Warrensburg, opposite the 2nd Ave. intersection, heading north.

Right turn signal on. Double yellow line thru town, parallel parking on the right side.

Noise on our left, a bike over the double yellow passing us...BANG!!! A bike on the ef ng RIGHT!

Crunchity thump smash - “hooks up” with us and we drag each other until our bike noses the curb and we tip over, the other bike lands nose to the north on its side.  So, one does an illegal pass on the left while the other one does an illegal pass on the right!?!  Craptastic!

One of us had a nasty sciatic are up and required a lot of physical therapy and one of us got a cracked bula and wore a boot for ve weeks and then had

Letters to the Editor

physical therapy. The bike wasn’t badly hurt but the insurance battle was “interesting”.

We had ridden over 1000 miles safely that week with no complications of any kind.  Until...it happened.

We are ne and dandy now and so is our bike.  We got back on the road once we were healed up and ready to rock and roll again to the melody of a happy motorcycle engine. We’ve been at this for 40 years and ain’t giving up now, no way in hell.

Later, My Dudes, Sindee

WHATCHATHINKIN’

Continued from Page 4 those cell phone commercials – ‘Can you hear me now?’ – until we get them completely sorted out. Even then, we hardly just chatter, unless we are solving the world’s problems, but they are there for necessities – con rmation of direction, bathroom breaks and such. I think Brian listens to his music more than I, as I do embrace the silence of the ride and the attention to what is going on around me. I will listen to music when on those dreaded interstate drags that sometimes are necessary but I have enough going on in my head to entertain me and keep my thoughts otherwise occupied.

I wish you all a peaceful and uncluttered New Year with adventures galore. We’ll see you on the road. ,

ON THE MARK

Continued from Page 5

you remove them. Then, getting the liner back into the glove with all the nger holes lined up reduces me rst to profanity and thereafter, to tears. I have literally disposed of gloves after a considerable time of trying to get the confounded liners to t back inside.

Finally, someone told me that motorcycle seats (or saddles) are made

FREE WHEELIN’

Continued from Page 3 is a friend of ours and although he’s okay, sorta friendly to me, he is far nicer to Shira whom he once T-boned at speed in a high-end go-kart race in Austin, Texas – ending her carting career and giving her a back pain to remember the incident for months. That is what happens when you give kids toys with horsepower. (Maybe my parents were right?)

Both his websites are full of this moto porn that I gleefully scroll through each day. Nortons, BSAs, iconic superbikes from all four Japanese companies; it is a never-ending run of machines that we might remember, or not, but certainly lust after these days.

With BaT - Bring a Trailer - I dutifully follow auctions on machines that would be nice to have, to touch, to own… but, like that 12-year-old kid from Queens a half-century ago, I ain’t never gonna get.

Like that luscious blond Norwegian girl in the March 1970 issue of Playboy. See, it really is a lot like real porn… I heard. I was told. I…umm – never mind.

Oh well… we soon will ride out of this dark and cold winter and before we know it, we will all be riding the backroads. But it would be cool to do it on that Honda VFR500. I spotted one on Abhi’s site and well, it got me thinking… ,

to feel good when you are sitting on one in the showroom. Unfortunately, after a few hours riding, they are invariably way too soft. Most of my machines end up with aftermarket seats with rmer foam more suited to long stints in the saddle. My old DRZ-400 was particularly offensive, with a factory foam contraption that had all the comfort of a 4X4 post. I guess it was to reinforce the idea that on a dual-sport, you should be standing up in rough terrain. ,

HONDA CELEBRATES 30-YEAR PARTNERSHIP WITH JOHNNY CAMPBELL

In a special event held east of San Diego, American Honda celebrated its 30th year working with Johnny Campbell, off-road legend known for winning Baja 1000 11 times. Off-road media and personalities gathered at beautiful Chocolate Mountain Ranch to socialize with Campbell, check out several of his old race bikes, and ride 2023 models Campbell helped develop, including the CRF450X, CRF450RX and CRF250RX. As a token of their appreciation, Honda presented Campbell with the 1997 XR600R that he rode to his rst win in the SCORE International OffRoad Racing series.

“This whole event was incredible,” Campbell said.

“I’m very thankful for my relationship with American Honda, and it means a lot to be recognized for three decades of hard work, racing, overcoming obstacles, giving input for new product, and helping with rider development. I cherish all the relationships I have with the folks at American Honda, and I’m really touched, honored and emotional. It’s been an amazing career so far, but this isn’t a retirement party; there’s still plenty of work to be done, and I look forward to this partnership continuing for a long time!”

ORGAN DONATIONAND TRANSPLANTS DURING MAJOR USMOTORCYCLE RALLIES

Traumatic deaths from motor vehicle crashes increase where large U.S. motorcycle rallies are held, and a Harvard-led study suggests a

corresponding, dramatic boost in the number of organ donations and transplants at that time.

The researchers from Massachusetts General Hospital in Boston, found that in the regions in which the seven largest U.S. biker rallies were held between 2005 and 2021, 21% more organ donors per day occurred, on average during these events, compared with days just before and after the rallies. Researchers also found 26% more transplant recipients per day, on average, during the events.

“Clearly, there are preventable deaths happening during these events, and the focus first and foremost should be improving public safety and traffic safety during these events,” said Dr. David Cron, first author of the study and a clinical fellow at Massachusetts General Hospital.

Such rallies are generally large, crowded affairs held in rural areas or small towns with traf c infrastructure intended for much smaller populations and far less traf c, the researchers noted.

Motorcyclists, especially those not wearing helmets, are disproportionately more likely to die in a crash compared with passenger vehicle motorists. Events looked at included Daytona, Sturgis, Myrtle Beach, and Laconia.

SPEAKINGABOUT LACONIA - CHARLIE ST. CLAIR REELECTEDIN NEW HAMPSHIRE

Delight, displeasure, or distrust, the November 8 midterms meant a lot of things to a lot of people, but for motorcyclists there was at least one bright spot in New Hampshire where longtime biker Charlie St. Clair won election to the State House of Representatives, again.

St. Clair is well known to riders everywhere as the coordinator of Laconia Motorcycle Week; “The World’s Oldest Motorcycle Rally,” celebrating 100 years of rallying in 2023.

Democrat victor and former representative St. Clair previously served one term in the State House, until this past election cycle when he lost to now-incumbent Republican Rep. Richard Little eld in 2020, the same person St. Clair just defeated to now reclaim his old House seat.

As a candidate, St. Clair emphasized placing constituents above party lines and demands, saying “I always encourage people not to vote by party but on the individual.”

SUZUKI POWERED DRONE TAKES FLIGHT

Ever since watching ‘The Jetsons’ on TV in the 60s we’ve been waiting for the future to get here so we can take to the skies in our ying cars, so perhaps for now we’ll settle for a motorcycle-powered ying machine, as a Suzuki-engined drone has been developed in Japan that can lift 150kg (330lb) and y for up to six hours.

Utilizing one of the most legendary sports motorcycle engines of all time, the Suzuki GSX-R1000, the ‘Kunio’ AZ1000 “Super Drone” was developed by Arase Aizawa Aerospace with the concept of the vehicle being to, literally, have a flying engine, maximizing the performance of the aircraft and the payload it can carry.  The motorcycle engine was chosen due to its lightweight, high-output design.

The quadcopter stands over a meter tall (3.28 feet) with a length of

over three meters (nearly 10 feet), and the mammoth 55-litre fuel tank can carry the unladen 110kg (242.5 lbs) drone aloft for an impressive sixhour road trip, sans the roadways.

Also of note…George Jetson was born this year, on July 31, 2022 in Orbit City, with Hanna-Barbera’s 21st-century cartoon series set a hundred years into the future in 2062; so maybe the future starts now?

Famous quote: “Jane!  Stop this crazy thing!”

EICMAWORLD’S BIGGEST MOTORCYCLE SHOW BREAKS NEW RECORDS

Apparently, 2022’s iteration of the largest motorcycle show on the planet was a resounding success, judging by the numbers; 1,370 brands present, representing 45 different nations, and a 38% increase in attendance at this year’s EICMA (acronym for International Motorcycle and Accessories Exhibition) hosted annually in Milan, Italy where manufacturers debut new models to crowds of over a half million.

Given the lineup of marques, in uencers and diverse ranges of advancing technology, it was only natural that the build-up of anticipation would give rise to even bigger attendance numbers.

EUROPE MOVESTO BAN INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINES

Or – Here Comes the Handbasket – Climb on In…

The European Commission, European Parliament, and the member states, united in the Council of the European Union, reached an agreement about the emission limits for cars and vans, and following a few steps to lower the emission of the eet, from 2035 the sale of new cars that have no zero CO2-emission will be banned in the European Union.

Environmentalists celebrated this as a victory of battery electric vehicles (BEVs) against vehicles with an internal combustion engine (ICE), claiming this means a ban on gasoline-powered engines.  Consequently, this would not only affect cars and vans, but also motorcycles.

Kiss our grits -BR ,

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles presents Dr.

O’Life’s MYSTERIOUS AMERICA

THE GRAVEOF BRANDY HOWA ‘ONE HIT WONDER’ WASBASEDONAREALWOMAN

There’s a port on a western bay

And it serves a hundred ships a day…

There are songs that some like and some don’t. Then there is Looking Glass’s Brandy – the 1972 hit by the New Jersey-based band. Have you ever met anyone who did not like this tune? I didn’t think so.

Many songs have been written about real women. Layla – about Patti Boyd (then married to George Harrison, but lusted after by Eric Clapton), Our House by Graham Nash for Joni Mitchell… even The Kinks

Lola was about a real woman who was part of Andy Warhol’s entourage.

So this month let us ride along the mysterious backroads of the Garden State and see if we can nd Brandy, or at least the woman who inspired her.

Lonely sailors pass the time away And talk about their homes

And there’s a girl in this harbor town…

As beautiful as much of New Jersey is there is a longitudinal line of what I call Americanization. Heavily traf cked, and strip malli ed - it ain’t too pretty, but that was not always the case, as it was along this region that many of the very rst European settlements were made.

There was a time when the Raritan River was beautiful and a very desirable place to call home. Running 70 miles from the western hills of the state the river was a source of commerce and transportation for centuries. And at its height, it carried more cargo than the Erie Canal.

Now it is something the highways almost unknowingly run across.

And she works layin’ whiskey down

They say, Brandy, fetch another round She serves them whiskey and wine…

Today along Route 1 in New Brunswick you will nd one of many malls – this one right along the river is home to a massive AMC Movie IMAX Theatre. Across from the entrance, on the far side of the parking lot, there is a most unusual site. A chest-high black wrought iron fence surrounds a single gravestone - Mary Ellis. 1750 – 1828.

Here lies Mary and two of her family members as the movie stand on the ground that was once her estate.

Seymour

After she passed and her descendants scattered, the land and home fell into disrepair and was eventually torn down.

After some time the land was sold. For years, a ea market stood on the property. When the property was put back on the market, it was purchased by a developer who wanted to keep the gravestone due to its eternal occupant’s unique story.

Brandy wears a braided chain Made of nest silver from the North of Spain A locket that bears the name Of the man that Brandy loved… Her’s is a story of tragedy and heartbreak.

Mary herself was a very strong woman. She pushed for women voting rights and often voted when she was told she could not. She was a woman that other women looked up to and many men respected.

But, she never married.

The story goes that at one time she had met a man and the two had a passionate relationship for many years when he and his ship came to the mid-Atlantic. He would bring her gifts, jewelry, and things from far away. At one time, when they parted, he promised to come back and this time to wed her.

Months went by, then years. Stories of how his ship might have been lost and her love with it reached her ears. She would not believe it.

It was said she would stand out every day, waiting for her beloved. She looked out at the river for years, turning down every proposal that came her way. He never returned, but Mary was buried near the river, perhaps so her seafaring suitor could nd her.

At night when the bars close down Brandy walks through a silent town

And loves a man who’s not around She still can hear him say

She hears him say, “Brandy, you’re a ne girl”

While the sailor may have been lost at sea, he may simply have moved on - started a new life somewhere else, Mary a distant memory. Thanks to the developer who preserved her nal resting place, now she will never be forgotten.

In 1972 the New Jersey Band Looking Glass released Brandy. The song, written by Elliot Lurie, was based a little bit on a girl he once dated in High School named Randy, but mixed with the story of Mary Ellis. Rhyming took over and Brandy owed far better for Lurie than Randy or Mary and the rest is a wonderful mix of Rock & Roll, New Jersey, and Mysterious America history.

O’Life Out! ,

Warren County NJ Tourism presents BIG CITY GETAWAY

AMERICAN PROHIBITION MUSEUM

209 W. ST. JULIAN STREET, SAVANNAH GA 31401

(912) 220-1249

• americanprohibitionmuseum.com

OPENEVERYDAY 10AM-6PM

Booze, rewater, hooch, potent potables, rotgut, hard stuff, canned heat. No matter what you call it, humans have been consuming alcohol, well, for as long as humans have been around. And before that, it’s been found that primates were inclined to imbibe in much earlier forms of alcohol. Gotta watch out for those Monkey Bars.

A movement towards liquor regulations, or prohibition, started raising its head back in the early 1800s, with a wave of religious revivalism. Massachusetts passed a temperance law banning the sale of spirits in less than 15-gallon quantities (go big or go home) and Maine followed their lead sometime later. By the Civil War, a number of states had adopted similar laws.

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind

By the turn of the century, temperance societies were a common xture across the U.S, mostly lead by women who saw alcohol as a destructive force to families and marriages. They were not the only ones to see a problem, as factory owners supported the movements in an effort to decrease accidents and increase ef ciency of their workers.

The 18th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution, rati ed on January 16, 1919 and put into effect on January 17, 1920, ushered in Prohibition. Despite the legislation of the Volstead Act (named for Representative Andrew Volstead of Minnesota, who championed it), there were many dif culties in enforcing it: illegal production and sales –bootlegging, illegal drinking establishments –speakeasies, and increasing violence and crimes –the rise of the Ma a. By the early 1930s, the support of Prohibition was waning and by 1933, Congress adopted a resolution proposing a 21st Amendment to repeal the 18th, which was rati ed on December 5, 1933, ending Prohibition (and a national holiday at Monkey with a Gun Tiki Bar).

In Savannah, Georgia you will nd the only museum in the U.S. dedicated to the history of Prohibition. Filling 6,000 square feet with thirteen different galleries as well as a fully-stocked speakeasy, the American Prohibition Museum walks you from beginning to end of this 13-year period of the United States.

Beginning with the Temperance Movement exhibits, you’ll nd posters, pamphlets and propaganda which in uenced the American people to vote the country dry. Carry Nation, the axe-wielding radical who single-handedly smashed barrels and bottles, has her own gallery where you can get a sel e with her 6-feet tall, imposing gure (she refused to wear the con nements of corsets and tight- tting clothing, which made for an even more terrifying persona). Her ‘hatchetations’ had her arrested at least 30 times for acts of vandalism.

From here you will journey through the birth of the rum runners, moonshiners and bootleggers and the effects of the overproof and tainted booze on the public. You’ll enter the world of the Flapper, where women raised their skirts and bobbed their hair, and listen to the intoxicating rhythms of the jazz movement. Enter the world of crime with the likes of Al Capone, whose crime network brought in $100 million/year illegally while the average industrial worker earned a mere $1,000. No wonder so many people drank. You can stand in the middle of them all - Lucky Luciano, Al Capone and Bugs Moran, holding a Tommy gun, and get your mug shot for the police blotter.

A Prohibition Museum wouldn’t be worth its salt if there wasn’t a speakeasy at the end of the line. Don’t pass up your chance to do a little

Charleston dancing before entering the secret door. The resident costumed bartenders will serve you up some very tasty creations, such as the Brown Derby (Old Forester Bourbon, grapefruit and honey), while you take in the gorgeous antique wood bar and surrounding memorabilia. The Speakeasy is open separately from the museum Thurs-Sat, with a secret entrance on Congress St.

One of the most enticing features throughout the museum are the amazingly lifelike wax gures, which certainly had me doing a double take. The creators of these, from one of the oldest wax museums in the country – Potter’s Wax Museum in St. Augustine, FL - often used photographs of real people from the Prohibition era as templates.

You can wander through the museum on your own or take a guided tour with period costumed guides. Entrance fees range from $16 to $34, with the guided tour lasting about 45 minutes. Savannah is a very hip, historic and hospitable town, so plan on spending more than just an afternoon. There are plenty of lodging options, a plethora of phenomenal dining venues and enough history to keep you busy for quite some time. If that is too overwhelming, Tybee Island, Savannah’s beach, is within a stone’s throw. ,

HAINESVILLE GENERAL STORE

283 ROUTE 206, SANDYSTON, NJ 07826 • 973-948-4280 • hgsnj.com

Sometimes… the very places that we pass, again and again, are the places we should stop and check out.

The truth is we had been to the Hainesville General Store several times throughout the years, but we recently read in a local newspaper that the old place, nearly 140 years old, had been bought. The new owners, Paul and Emily Csencsits, were busy giving the General Store a new, more open look, while keeping that 139 year-old avor and feel. But, while we’re talking a bit about this store’s history let’s make mention that the previous owners, Bob and Megan Horst, had run the Hainesville General Store since 1996 and they had painstakingly re nished the old place, bringing it back to its historic condition. Before them there were three other families who ran it, and once it was moved with stock on the shelves, some 300 feet using rollers and soap. One owner ran a weather station here as well and it was here that the coldest temperatures on record for the region were recorded at -32 degrees giving the area the nickname the “Icebox of Sussex County.” Yes, we know about the region’s cold temperatures, believe us. With the new owners at the helm, Shira happily pointed out another local news article that stated that the Hainesville General Store had taken the Blue Ribbon First Place at the NJ State Fair for their pies. This keeps with the store’s winning tradition as they had also won in 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, and 2019. Being admitted dessert junkies we kinda, sorta found ourselves at the Hainesville General Store one nice late summer Sunday afternoon.

We came for the pies – but we found so much more.

Outside a couple was enjoying some serious sandwiches and taking a look at the many large and varied menus suspended above the long and old wooden counter – we knew that the store needed more than a few words in Backroads.

They open their doors at 6 am (7 on Fridays and Sundays), so you can be an early bird if you like and they have a good selection of ways to start the day – Benna, Southwest, Greek, and Veggie Bowls. Their Breakfast Sandwiches sound great as well, served on your choice of fresh baked Kaiser rolls, bagels, or king-sized English muf ns. Topped with 2 eggs, cheese, and

Thisilldous Eatery presents GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN tasty places to take your bike

your choice of smoked bacon, Taylor ham (not pork roll – thank you), breakfast sausage, or sliced deli turkey! If you are really hungry try their new Fried Egg Toastie! Thick slices of Texas toast topped with 2 fried eggs and smothered with melted cheddar cheese. Wrapping it up, you can get a Crack of Dawn with three eggs, spinach, home fries and feta cheese as well as a few others.

Later in the day Hainesville has some great sandwiches. Served up hot off the grill, there’s the Stoll Steak Bomb – beef steak, mozzarella, peppers, onions, mushrooms and seasoned potatoes on a 10” sub roll. You’ll melt for one of their melts –how about a Flatbrook – Swiss, smoked turkey, banana peppers, spicy brown mustard on Texas toast –all named after local roadways and landmarks. One of HGS’s specialty sandwiches is the Boom Boom Chicken – Chicken let, sliced deli pickle, lettuce, tomato, smokey chili pepper garlic sauce on a sesame bun. We’ll put a wrap on this with their monthlynamed wraps; perhaps the May – for Brian’s birthday – fresh mozzarella, roasted red peppers, romaine with a side of balsamic vinaigrette. Going for a light meal? There are several salads so you can save room for the real reason we originally came to the HGS… The pies.

the planet was now safely ensconced in my top case.

As they say - In Pie We Crust! Catching up on MotoGP was never more satisfying than it was that night.

In addition to their wonderful meals and desserts, to peruse the shelves after placing your order is indeed a treat. We found many products and crafts – some found their way home with us – as well as those things that will bring back childhood memories. The Hainesville General Store is certainly a wonderful stop in the Great All American Diner Run. ,

Although you can stop and buy a slice… maybe a cup of excellent coffee and take a seat on the porch or one of their picnic tables - we went big. You can not help going big. Although there were choices (apple in many varieties, blueberry, cherry, pecan, pumpkin,key lime…) we went for the Apple Crumb. This was the heaviest pie we have ever bought. I thought they had forgotten the Pyrex Plate - but no, it is a dense, delicious mix of apple sweetness and crumbly goodness. All that is truly good on

Wytheville VA Tourism presents WE’RE OUTTA HERE a weekend destinationkeeping you on the backroads

INNAT SUGAR HILL

5704 SOMERS POINT ROAD, MAYS LANDING, NJ 08330 609-625-2226 • www.innatsugarhill.com

Deep in the southern part of New Jersey you will nd the Great Egg River that traverses along and through the Pine Barrens of New Jersey – the largest in the nation and the third longest river that lives entirely in the state of New Jersey – the Raritan and Passaic being the longer.

The New Jersey Pine Barrens, also known as the Pinelands or simply the Pines, is the largest remaining example of the Atlantic coastal pine barrens ecosystem, stretching across more than seven counties of the Garden State.

Great Egg Harbor (and thus the river) got its name from Dutch explorer Cornelius Jacobsen May. In 1614, May came upon the inlet to the Great Egg Harbor River. The meadows were so covered with shorebird and waterfowl eggs that he called it “Eyren Haven” (Egg Harbor). Today, the National Park Service considers it one of the top 10 places in North America for birding. Cape May is named for him.

But it was Captain George May who founded the town of Mays Landing in 1740. The jury is still out if one was the ancestor of the other.

The town, with its location that was as beautiful as it was commercially viable, thrived.

The addition of the railroad helped… for seven short weeks.

On August 11, 1880, over 1,000 members of St. Anne’s Church in Philadelphia were returning from a day-long trip to the shore when an oncoming locomotive rear-ended the train. The collision, which occurred over the Great Egg Harbor River, led to several casualties. Many of the

Today May’s Landing is a neat little town.

We visited during September’s MotoAmerica races held a short ride to the west in Millville and spent a few evenings at the Inn at Sugar Hill.

The inn sits atop a high bluff overlooking the Egg Harbor River. It was early in its life that the prized commodities of sugar, molasses and rum, arriving from the Far East by sailing ships, were stored in the safety of the high and dry thick-walled foundation of the Inn awaiting shipment

townspeople in Mays Landing assisted in the rescue efforts, offering their homes to the injured. This bit of history deserves far more than a mention – and it shall.

to Philadelphia. This prompted the locals to begin referring to this part of town as Sugar Hill, a name still used to this day.

It was during the early 1800’s that Mays Landing became a thriving waterfront town with George Wheaton building over 100 sailing vessels just across from the Inn. In the 1850’s the Inn was expanded, doubling its size to accommodate visiting Washington and Trenton dignitaries by then owner, Senator William Moore. Mr. Moore owned a eet of more than 50 sailing vessels engaged in commerce along the entire eastern seaboard. As a state senator, he was praised for spearheading legislation that standardized the widely abused harbor tax set by the many seaside harbor states which had many sea captains staying out at sea during rough weather, putting sailors and cargo as risk.

The early 1900’s saw the Abbotts take ownership of the “villa”, as postcards were now calling the house. They owned the general store in town where you could buy anything from a pound of our to a model T Ford. Local folklore had circulated the story that the privateers from an earlier time had buried treasure on “Sugar Hill”. Mr. Abbott would wake up many Sunday mornings to nd his rolling manicured lawn peppered with holes dug by treasure seeking tavern patrons under the cover of darkness. Local papers of the day even ran the story with Mr. Abbott assuring the

public that there is no buried treasure on Sugar Hill.

The real treasure here is the location.

The Inn at Sugar Hill has six rooms and we took the third oor Pennington Room – named for Captain John Pennington – one of the captains whose import of sugar and molasses gave the inn and the hill its name. This room had lofted ceiling, a wonderfully restored replace mantle and a very comfortable queen bed. This room worked perfectly for this race weekend and also offered a nice view of the river. The other rooms were equally accommodating.

During the summer months the inn has a tent outside at the river’s edge for cocktails, food, & live music. During the cooler months they offer inside dining at Izzy’s Steak & Seafood House.

But, as luck had it, both were closed during that slide from summer into fall, but the town offered plenty of dining options – we particularly enjoyed a Saturday night at Crabby’s with our friends Dave and Alma – with whom we rarely get to spend enough time.

The new innkeeper, Wendy Fabietti, took over the place in 2021 and together with her husband Vic and Executive Chef Israel Rodriguez are busy bringing this ne inn back to the splendor it deserves.

If traveling through this part of New Jersey and looking for a place that offers one of the best sunsets along the water then stop by the Inn at Sugar Hill and tell them Backroads sent you. ,

CATCHING UPAND REVISITING

Many, many years ago, almost 20, we were watching the 6-season television show Lost. It kept us captivated – honestly, we came into it at Season 2 but easily binge-watched, caught up, and were happy to see that it had an end game – even though that end game was very, very disappointing.

Similarly, and almost on the heels of Lost’s demise, was The Walking Dead television series. Always one to want to see what people think the end of the world looks like, we started watching this from the get-go. Like Lost, we were disheartened with the path it was taking and we, similarly, parted ways.

Hearing that there was going to be a Final Episode, we decided to give it another go and catch up. With 9 out of 11 seasons under our belts, it was not too dif cult to do this, even though each season missed had 24 episodes. But, heading into the time of year when darkness comes early, we hunkered down and slotted out two episodes a night to try and get ‘er done in a timely manner.

‘Okay, Shira, where are you going with this?’ you are saying. ‘I have better things to do with my time than read about your boob tube habits.’

The other night, while watching Eugene and his new ‘friend’ Stephanie conversing, not only did we nd out that her real name is Shira (well, not the real Stephanie, and not even the real Stephanie is named Stephanie – oh, forget it…) but that she and Eugene both went to the Inside Scoop ice cream shop (wherever that may have been in ctional Walking Dead Land) but both enjoyed their super fabulous Black Raspberry ice cream.

You can just imagine the jaw-dropping effect this scene had on us. How in the world did this get into the Walking Dead? We know that Norman Reedus, AKA Daryl, is a motorcycle enthusiast, having had his own motorcycle show, and that he was known to park his motorcycle in Manhattan when in residence. Perhaps he had picked up a copy of Backroads there, was also an ice cream af cionado, and suggested the writers include these two facts in an episode. Ah, one can only imagine and hope.

Anyways, it made me reminisce and return my thoughts to the Inside Scoop ice cream shop that I did visit, much closer to home than Walking Dead Land, in Coopersburg, PA. I took a look at their Facebook page and, lo and behold, they, too, are Walking Dead watchers and posted the clip we had just seen on their page. I thought it justice, since I linked it to my own page, that I revisit their wonderful shop in this issue.

The building housing Inside Scoop has been in use since 1950 as a butcher shop and lawn mower repair, not at the same time. After Ronnie, the lawn mower guy, retired Penny and Tony Caciolo decided to take up residence in offering the community an ice cream and coffee shop. With a 45 acre sports facility behind the building, it seemed like a win-win situation. After a big of governmental entanglement, all was put through and the Inside Scoop moved on to being.

In the words of Penny and Tony, ‘The Inside Scoop was born. The philosophy of giving a superior product at a fair price in a friendly, fun atmosphere that helps you forget the worries of the world and escape into your ice cream or coffee, was nally a reality. The memories that the 2 owners (Penny and Tony) had of growing up together in Emmaus and visiting the local ice cream shop on dates when they were 15 seemed to be almost impossible to create in this busy day and age. But it appeared that this impossible task was becoming a reality.’

on Page 32

The Best of Backroads 2022 •

Time

A look back at the year that was…

is doing that ying thing again; and once more it was time to gather the various two-wheel scribes and moto-philosophers who help gather the magazine each month and scour over the places we had been, things we discovered, and adventures we had ridden into and out of… But we won’t bring up Ecuador this time around.

The year did bring these pages far and wide and after the now legendary long weekend gathering at the infamous honkytonk we call Monkey with a Gun, the results were tallied quickly. Hey, we ain’t Arizona, okay; and as is our custom we will start the new year of 2023 in typical fashion with the Best of Backroads 2022. Ready for a quick ride back? We knew you were.

The Great All-American Diner Run 2022

Since the beginning of time, having meals with good friends and, in this case, riding buddies is always a wonderful thing. Add in some excellent roads, a happy location, and serious food and you have all the makings of the Great All American Diner Run. These were our top three for 2022.

SECOND RUNNER UP • GYP’S TAVERN 25 US-206, BRANCHVILLE, NJ 07826 • 973-948-5013

Gyp’s Tavern has become a regular hang for us and it is not unexpected to see our bikes there on a late weekday afternoon playing our poor excuse for pool.

Gyp’s place is an historic tavern that has been around and mostly unchanged for years. Pretty much has the same vibe today as when the Bambino was a steady patron.

What looks like a true northwest Jersey Road House along Route 206, it backs up to the delightful Kittatinny Lake with one of the nicest sunsets in the state.

The weekend sees gaggles of motorcycles park outside and the allure is understandable. An Adirondack chair or table along the lake cannot be beat. They have a seriously good kitchen. Shira swears by their Chicken BLT, and the Burgers are the best. In fact, we have never had anything bad here. The roads leading to and from Gyp’s are spectacular and if you are looking for a dynamite and easy-going lakeside tavern on an afternoon’s ride then Gyp’s is the place.

FIRST RUNNER UP • THE RED WOLFE INN 130 COUNTY ROAD 519, BELVIDERE, NJ 07823 • 908-475-4772

We Have been huge fans of The Red Wolfe Inn for many years, and this tiny restaurant, along County Road 519 right outside Belvidere, has been drawing patrons for many years before that.

Owned by the Waltz family, this restaurant has a homey feel, a most excellent staff and serves up a wide variety of entrées, and the best steaks in the state, and that is a bold and true statement.

In addition to the steaks you will nd seafood, ribs, chicken, and daily specials that really are just that.

Like most Great All American Diner Runs, The Red Wolfe is located in a part of New Jersey that is crisscrossed with fantastic roads. Follow along through wonderful Warren County and make a dinner run to Red Wolfe Inn – you will understand how it has been a favorite of ours for years.

1ST PLACE GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN 2022 CORNER PIAZZA

1 ELDRED-YULAN ROAD, ELDRED, NY 12732 • 845-557-3321

We take the Best of Backroads seriously, and choosing s seasonal pizza place found on a crossroads along Sullivan County, New York, was a decision that many ingredients were mixed, spread, and baked during the yearly MWAG soiree’.

Out of twelve great eateries, we kept returning to this little outdoor Italian pizza joint with a distinct love of the New York Mets. Although many will point ngers and say we were biased… well, that did not come into play one bit – but it didn’t hurt either.

In addition to using the freshest ingredients and serving up the best pizza we have ever found on the road, Lou Monteleone and brother Frank, have turned the crossroads of New York Route 55 and 32 into a super riding destination – whether heading up to a concert at Bethel Woods or just passing through to points unknown – the Corner Piazza pies are hearty, avorful and delicious – and all created and baked to order. Nothing sitting around here kids.

This spring when the owers bloom and the trees turn green ride up through Sullivan County, New York and make it a point to stop by Corner Piazza for a bite.

Say hi to the brothers and… Let’s Go Mets!

Big City Getaway 2022

We were once asked by Reg Pridmore (riding instructor extraordinaire)… “Hey Mate – is Backroads a motorcycle magazine that wants to be a travel and history magazine, or a travel and history magazine that wants to be a motorcycle magazine?” Our answer was – yes. Each month the Big City Getaway seeks out the history, culture, and pride of our land and mixes it with great roads and rides. We truly enjoy searching out every one of these museums, events, and special places, and we hope you enjoy them as much as we do.

SECOND RUNNER UP • BEAR MOUNTAIN CRUISE NIGHT

Ha… this was easy. Take one of the nest river valleys in the nation on a beautiful summer’s evening and toss in a couple hundred of the nest cars, trucks, and motorcycles you can imagine and you will only scratch the surface of how cool the Bear Mountain Cruise Nights are. We always try to get there early and leave late as the horsepower, chrome, and shine seems to keep rollin’ in all night. Mark off some Wednesday evening in the late spring or summer and make the ride to the Hudson Valley and the Bear Mountain Cruise Night.

FIRST RUNNER UP • PETER NETTESHEIM’S BMW COLLECTION • HUNTINGTON, NEW YORK

Tucked away along the well-manicured and upscale homes in the Long Island town of Huntington is something very, very special. Back in our May edition, we gave you a quick visit to the home of Peter Nettesheim, but words and images can hardly do it justice. But in May we tried.

From the moment you walk onto Peter’s property, you are immersed in what is the largest private collection of BMW motorcycles on the planet. From the very earliest and some of the rarest machines to Reg Pridmore’s machine that made him a champion, to all the other things – small and huge that make up Peter Nettesheim’s BMW Collection.

The collection is so amazing and there was no way Peter’s would not be included in the Best of Backroads. As we noted, this is a private home, but if you have a group of serious riders feel free to email Peter at bmwmuseum@hotmail.com

1ST PLACE BIG CITY GETAWAY 2022

VIRGINIA AIR & SPACE MUSEUM

600 SETTLERS LANDING RD, HAMPTON, VA 23669 • 757-727-0900 •

vasc.org

On a ride back up from the Outer Banks, we detoured west heading towards Yorktown and passing through the small city of Hampton Roads – a town immersed with aviation and aviation history. Here you will nd the Virginia Air & Space Museum.

From its amazing wide open glass entrance to the more than 30 aircraft and space vehicles on display – this museum is the greatest of its type along the mid-Atlantic. They have the Apollo 12 Command Module in addition to an F-106 Delta Dart, F-16, F-18, and many more. There is even an F104 StarFighter… a very important aircraft to lovers of Star Trek; as it was this aircraft, piloted by Captain John Christopher, that intercepted the Enterprise after one of those time travel incidents. Okay, maybe not that exact craft; as we all know it broke apart under stress from the Enterprise’s tractor beam… but I go on.

Back on Earth, Virginia in particular, the Virginia Air & Space Museum is an amazing place in every way – especially for lovers of aircraft like we are - and when you visit you, too, will see why this museum took our #1 spot in this year’s Best of Backroads.

We’re Outta Here 2022

We all remember the opening scenes from ‘Then Came Bronson’ and the great exchange between Bronson and the guy in the station wagon…

Driver: “Taking a trip?” Bronson: “Yeah.” Driver: “Where to?” Bronson: “Oh, I don’t know. Wherever I end up, I guess.” What people do not know is that actor, Stu Klitsner, went home and opened up his copy of Backroads, and zeroed in on that month’s We’re Outta Here and he and his wife headed out that night for a great few days on the road on their Harley.

THAT is what this column is all about. Don’t sit in the station wagon – get out your bike and ride! So, let’s look at the top three from last season.

SECOND RUNNER UP • SAINT SIMONS ISLAND, GEORGIA

With this escape from our August edition, we did have that Bronson moment – as we knew kinda where we wanted to go –but a thrown dart settled it for us. St. Simon, right off the coat of Georgia, is truly a hidden gem. With the far more popular and famous Jekyll Island directly to the south, St. Simon sometimes gets passed – and that is a shame.

There is a lot to do here. We absolutely loved this island. It is full of history, great restaurants, and some of the most amazing oak trees about which poems have been written. A climb up to the top of the lighthouse is always in order and Fort Frederica and the World War II Home Front Museum deserved to be visited as well.

But the best part of St. Simon is the pier at sunset. A nice bottle of white and your honey… and the beautiful end of a Georgian island day cannot be beat.

FIRST RUNNER UP • HISTORIC SUMMIT INN

• 724-438-8594

• www.summitinnresort.com

We have visited here a few times and it was, like our big winner here, part of a Spring Break Rally a few years past.

Built atop the crest of one of the highest mountains on the famed National Road, this hotel has been pampering guests for more than a century. The rooms are big and comfortable, the restaurant and bar most excellent, and grabbing an adult beverage after a long day’s ride and sitting out on the massive veranda -well it is hard to beat. The Historic Summit Inn is great in every respect; so make it a destination yourself and you will understand how it easily slipped into this issue.

1ST PLACE WE’RE OUTTA HERE 2022

MOUNTAIN LAKE LODGE

115 HOTEL CIRCLE, PEMBROKE, VIRGINIA 540-626-7121 • www.mtnlakelodge.com

We originally came across the Mountain Lake Lodge by chance with four of us heading north along the Virginia backroads and passing this beautiful and stately stone building. We had breakfast there and the next year we had our Spring Break Rally and spent a couple of days in the magni cent hotel.

Yes, this is where they lmed Dirty Dancing, but this lodge is far more than just one hit feature – iconic as it was.

The place is built on a 2,600-acre nature preserve and we have rarely found as relaxing a place. But we are a riding magazine and the roads around here run from exquisite, twisty, and fun to OMG it’s a mountain. (Mike and Robyn still rule) A very tough mountain. This centrally located Virginian inn allows for a wide variety of day trips and the Mountain Lake Lodge is the perfect place for a small group of like-minded riders to set up a home base for a few day’s worth of backroads exploration. Trust us on this… there is a reason the Mountain Lake Lodge snagged the #1 spot in We’re Outta Here 2022!

Mysterious America

This has always been a favorite for so many, and even with recent losses, we will ride on undaunted; Happy, Pepe, and even Spenser T. Cat have stepped up to carry on in O’Life’s spirit. But this is Mysterious America and strange things happen in this world. With that in mind let’s look at some of the more interesting oddities and anomalies we ran across on the backroads of this nation – Mysterious America.

SECOND RUNNER UP • NEW JERSEYIN RUINS

This article came about after a long day trip searching out what once was but is no more. Scattered across New jersey – the entire country for that matter - you will nd ruins and abandoned churches, hospitals, asylums, American castles, and others… Places that had to have been of importance at one time – but now slid into the back shelf of history.

It does not have to be the locations mentioned in our September 2022 issue – but any ruin anywhere. They all have a story, and history and a lot of them are a bit of a puzzle as well. It’s up to you to nd them, put the pieces together, and then discover their stories.

FIRST RUNNER UP • HOT WHEELS & MILLICENT BARBIE

MILLVILLE ARMY AIR FIELD MUSEUM

1 LEDDON ST., MILLVILLE, NJ 08332 • 856-327-2347 • P47MILLVILLE ORG

Running along the back portion of New Jersey Motorsports Park you will nd the Millville Army Air Field Museum. Here is a seriously great collection of New Jersey and America’s military aviation history. In truth, we did not go there for just that – but for something a bit different. In a separate building, the old library that you have to ask to see, you will nd one of the largest collections of Hot Wheels and Barbie Dolls in the nation.

Wait? A race track and Hot Wheels we understand – but Millicent Barbie.It all has to do with one man – Robert Hasuike – who was placed in detention with his family during the Japanese American lockdown in World War II. After their release, his family moved to Seabrook and Robert went on to be one of the head designers for Mattel Toy Company.

When he passed, he donated his entire collection – the largest private collection of Hot Wheels and Barbie Dolls on the planet - to the museum. Okay, maybe just slightly mysterious, but certainly different and wonderful to see. If you’ve loved tiny cars and curvy blondes since you were a kid, then a visit to see this collection is well worth it. See, even more reason to go see MotoAmerica this September!

FIRST PLACE MYSTERIOUS AMERICA 2022

CATHEDRALOF JUNK

4422 LAREINA DRIVE, AUSTIN, TX • 512-299-7413

Keep Austin Weird! No other town has a saying like that, and with good reason. Austin is Austin. Whether you are into the music, the Circuit of the Americas, or just the vibe – Austin is certainly like no other city in the nation.

Just a short drive from downtown, on a small non-descript lane, you will nd the home of Vince Hannemann and in his large backyard a structure so weird, so odd, so unusual –that it easily swiped rst place.

The Cathedral of Junk. Picture a giant conical tower of, well, junk. But one man’s junk is another man’s building material and strolling around, in and up Hannemann’s creation, is almost sensory overload.

As we did in April: Illuminated beer signs, clocks, and Fender amps all lit and powered by unseen cables. The cathedral is both loved and loathed by Austin – depending on whom you ask, and although the city once tried to tear it down, Austin now embraces it.

It’s all just part of what makes Weird Austin so weird and certainly a prime stop along the backroads of Mysterious America.

Inside Scoop

Was it hot enough for you this summer? What better way to cool off during an amazing ride then with some delicious ice cream. We did our best to bring you not only the best ice cream but shops in great riding areas. This year’s crop brought you up north to New Hampshire, to the farmlands of Lancaster and the forests of Pennsylvania. Each one was a stop during our Rallies this year. For your dessert delights, here are the winners of Inside Scoop 2022.

SECOND RUNNER UP • BOBBY SUE’S HOMEMADE ICE CREAM 70 EATON ROAD, FREEDOM, NH 03836 • 603-452-4852 • bobbysuesnh.com • OPENYEARROUND

Finding ourselves on the Backroads Summer Sojourn, we had planned a perfect lunch setting but needed to nish it off with a ne ice cream stop, since it was National Ice Cream Day. With some suggestions from our ‘guy in New Hampshire’ Jeff Adams, we were able to

track down just the right spot. Sitting on land called Cozy Corners in the friendly burg of Freedom, NH, Bobby Sue’s has been churning their wares since 1987 – now in the hands of the Dumas’ family. The avors are as varied as a diner menu, with over 50 in their hopper. The shop is fun and colorful, with outdoor seating to enjoy your treats. The riding in New Hampshire is quite varied as well, so put some gravel in your travel and head to this hidden gem on the Best of Backroads list.

FIRST RUNNER UP RIPLEIGH’S EAT ITOR NOT INNOVATIVE CREAMERY

2 SOUTH 6TH ST, MCSHERRYSTOWN, PA • 717-6983785 • ripleighs.com • CLOSEDDURINGWINTER

I have always been intrigued by unusual ice cream avors, especially when they are of superior quality. So, when looking for an afternoon stop during our Fall Fiesta this year, how could I pass up a chance to stop at Ripleigh’s Eat It or Not? Even the good Dr. O’Life would have swiveled his head if passing this shop. Sitting on the corner of a small strip of stores, the bright colors and large graphics are easily seen. Once drawn in, the smiling faces of the young ladies behind the counter add to the experience. Ripleigh, a 15-yearold high school student, opened the shop this past June, and has been kickin’ butt since. She divides her menu into three sections: Safety, We Dare You and We Double-Dog Dare You. From these creative avors, she has developed Instagram-worthy milkshakes to wow your taste and sight. Being located in the lovely Lancaster riding area, it is well worth the stop when in the neighborhood – we double-dog dare you.

1ST PLACE INSIDE SCOOP 2022 • FIRE & ICE SMOKEHOUSE & CREAMERY

3417 PETERS MOUNTAIN ROAD, HALIFAX, PA • 717-896-8444 • reandicesmokehouseandcreamery.com • OPENYEARROUND

TUES-SATURDAY

The combination of food, roads and ambience is sometimes dif cult to nd. Even two out of three, as Meatloaf said, ain’t bad. At this year’s winner of Best of Backroads Inside Scoop we hit the trifecta. Fire & Ice Smokehouse & Creamery – pretty much says it all. Matt Morgan – the Master of the Meat – and Chandra Morgan – the Deity of Dairy – have put together a combination to ll your sweet and savory wants. Yes, we were drawn to this place for the ice cream, but once you enter the open and inviting space, which once housed Amped Powersports, with Matt and Chandra serving the mo-

torcycle community, the aromas will have your tastebuds craving more. PLEASE COME HUNGRY, as you will need the room to enjoy all they have to offer. I highly recommend, if available, the dark chocolate cherry ice cream. It is THE BEST ice cream I have tasted in a very long time. That was con rmed by ev-

eryone who tasted it as well. We have been back several times and every meal was more than excellent, the service and friendliness of the staff and owners is beyond, and the riding in this part of Pennsylvania, both on and off-road, is some of the best on the East coast. In addition, its proximity to Knoebels Amusement Park makes it a perfect summertime stop. This package made Fire & Ice an easy winner for 2022’s Best of Inside Scoop. ,

New Machines for 2023

Towards the end of every year, a plethora of new machines are usually introduced and some years are more exciting than others. We think this is one of those good years. Many of the factories are introducing new models or models that have some serious changes built into them. Here are a few that caught our eye for one reason or another. We’ll feature other machines in later issues as more information becomes available.

Although a bit different, the Diavel has still always been a looker and had grunt. Now it is even sharper and with 168 ponies coming from the V4 engine, the new Ducati Diavel V4 is a true Italian Stallion. This machine is surprisingly comfortable and well-mannered on the road and with major service just every 37,000 miles (60,000 kilometers) it sets a new bar in owner serviceability.

Kawasaki Z650

Kawasaki has built a legacy of creating motorcycles that have unrivaled performance, excitement, and Sugomi styling, all of which are embodied in the new 2023 Z650 compact middleweight motorcycle. Known as one of the most well-balanced motorcycles in the Ka wasaki lineup, the Z650 blends easy handling with optimal engine and chassis performance that is a winning package whether it’s a daily commute or an afternoon spent on backroads. For 2023, the Z650 receives Kawa saki TRaction Control (KTRC), Kawasaki’s advanced traction control system that provides both enhanced sport riding performance and peace of mind under certain conditions to negotiate low-traction surfaces with con dence.

Berlin also is introducing a track-based RR version of this machine for a whole bunch more wampum (Wampum is the W in Bring Much), but as slick as the RR is, we can never see ourselves spending a long day twisted onto the sport bike. But, the R version is very, very attractive. It is still a slick bike, but with a far more upright riding position; something that plays a heavy factor these days.

But, here is the real fun part… 205 horsepower. Winglets. 205 horsepower. A rethought and designed chassis that is all about control. 205 horsepower. All is an actually usable package.

Did I mention it has giddy up? 205 horsepower? Yep, yep, yep… (sigh) When bikes with this much thrust come along, I usually nod and smile and move along.

The M 1000 R has caused a bit of troubling talk at dinner and in the Backroads barn.

Suzuki V-Strom 800DE & GSX-8S

The V-Strom, both 650 and 1,000, have been solid workhorses for years. Like a great baseball utility player, these machines seem to be able to do it all – and they have. Now Suzuki has upped the game and now introduces an all-new 800 into the already successful V-Strom mix.

The new 776cc DOHC parallel twin engine employs 270-degree crankshaft timing with the industryexclusive Suzuki Cross Balancer to deliver a smooth, torque-rich experience. This new machine is ideal for Adventure riders who desire more power than a 650cc engine can deliver and does so economically and reliably.

Think of the new V-Strom 800DE as the Goldilocks of the adventure market. Light, powerful, and dependable.

What you need for serious traveling.

The 2023 GSX-8S is brand-new, engineered from the ground up to deliver street ghter performance for a new generation that’s sure to turn heads and make a statement. Powerful, agile, and ready to go, the 8S offers a strong appeal to a broad range of riders, regardless of their age or riding experience.

A super rst ride that will last the riders new and old for many seasons and miles down the road.

Harley-Davidson Sportster S

You have to take notice of a machine that carries the venerable Harley-Davidson name and rolls out of the showroom with 121 horsepower and 94 ft. lbs. of torque rolling on an updated chassis, brakes, and a ghting weight of around 500 pounds.

You will especially take notice when the machine looks as attractive and muscular as the Harley-Davidson Sportster S does. This is not your grandad’s Sportster.

Indian FTR

Powered by a 6-speed liquid-cooled 1203 cc VTwin pushing 120 horses, suspended in a trellis frame with Sachs suspension and stopped by Brembo brakes, Indian has taken their already dead sexy

FTR and made it even more so for 2023. If it were Saturday night and you and Elton John were going out ghtin’ you’d want to be on the FTR. It just looks…tough; all ve versions of themand that word speaks volumes.

Honda CBR1000RR-R Fireblade SP

This particular model (with a 21-character designation) was refreshed in commemoration of Honda’s 30th Anniversary. According to the report, the iconic inline four-cylinder heart now has a focus on midcorner acceleration, with “the intake ports, airbox, airbox funnels, and exhaust mid-section all revised to deliver extra midrange power.”

Honda’s also gone up three teeth in the nal-drive sprocket for better bang, with the cherry on top being the upgraded quick-shifter performance to accompany a better throttle feel, better rear tire traction, and optimized Honda Selectable Torque Control (HSTC).

The whole package is available in a beautiful pearl white. Pricing: $28,900… but, if you are looking for pristine Honda beauty then get out the checkbook. Basically, the same price as Kawasaki’s ZX10 RR. To grab more perspective… it is four grand less than the BMW M 1000 RR and a whopping $16 grand less than a Ducati Panigale V4 R.

So grab the Fireblade AND an Africa Twin while you are at the Honda dealership… and then ride past the Ducati shop and wave.

2024 Triumph Street Triple 765

Triumph has announced the new 2024 Triumph Street Triple 765 range, featuring a signi cant ly updated Street Triple R, a new Street Tri ple RS, and an exclusive limited-run Street Triple 765 Moto2 Edition, which Triumph says is “the closest you can get to a Moto2 race bike for the road.” Only 765 of the Moto2 Edition bikes will be made.

All three models in the new 2024 Street Triple 765 range will still feature a liquidcooled 765cc inline-Triple that Triumph states have upgrades derived directly from the program. Triumph’s most powerful Street Tri-

ple range to date, the 2024 Street Triple R engine makes a claimed 118 hp and 59 lb-ft of torque at 9,500 rpm. The Street Triple RS and Moto2 take it up another notch, making 128 hp. This machine looks great, but some possibly more comfortable Moto2 versions, or at least with its suspension upgrades, would surely sell. ,

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT SHADTR 40 ADVENTURE SADDLE

The TR40 adventure saddle bags are

BAGS

The set of saddle bags has 6 DURAFLEX cambuckles to adjust the bag to the size of the load, increasing driving stability. In addition, all strap ends have closures to prevent apping and loose ends. It also has re ective details to improve visibility and padded carrying handles.

The TR40 has received the ABC Awards 2022, rewarding its innovative design that focuses on solving key aspects for use in adventure motorcycles.

You can see the TR40, as well as the full line of SHAD products, online: SHADUSA.com

fer a capacity of 32 liters and up to 10 kg of

TR40 adventure saddle bags feature the ‘Double Locking

pending) which locks the bag to the 4P System

at same time, access to the inside of the bag. Made from a high abrasion resistant material, compliant with REACH and OEKOTEX Standard 100 and resistant to 1.500 hours of UV exposure. It has reinforced stitches and base. The combination of the roll closure of the outer and inner bags ensures waterproofness.

The keys and lock cylinder of the TR40 are the latest premium version from SHAD, with a system that reduces the chance of theft. And a cover that stops dust from entering.

In addition to ensuring a sportive off-road riding, thanks to its low weight and its perfectly integration with SHAD 4P System tting, the TR40 saddle bags offer a plus of functionality

which allow to attach extra accessories. The

proof pouch that can be installed in any of the

designed in Barcelona and of

load per bag. The

System’ (patent

tting and prevents,

with its 8 reinforced tiedown spots (per bag)

TR40 include a bottle harness and exterior water-

MOLLE system.

The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

GIVE ME A BRAKE NEWBRAKELIFEFORTHATOLDMACHINEOFYOURS…

A few months back we had a letter from a reader talking about the need to prevent riders from getting rear-ended while riding or stopped at a light. Conspicuity, lighting, and vigilance all came into play.

Today we received another letter talking about a rider – a lawyer in Florida who defended the ‘freedom of choice’ on the mandatory use of helmets in that state - that collided into the back of another vehicle on the road killing himself and his passenger – both not wearing helmets. To make it worse… they were on the road to attend a memorial for another rider who also died helmetless on a bike.

I am not here to discuss the use of helmets in Backroads. In truth, if you choose aggressively not to wear a helmet this magazine might not be your cup of tea anyway.

Even if we all have ridden with less than ATGATT more than we’d admit, we should all be aware that a combination of riding skill, attitude, vigilance, and proper gear saves lives every day.

You do have to wonder how this rider (& passenger) ended up rearending an automobile. I was not there, nor did I read the police report, but for a rider to run into the back of a vehicle a few things must be looked at and happen. Short distance between rider and car, lack of vigilance, and closing velocity. We can also add into the mix skill level, type of machine, and rider’s state of mind and attention.

Then there are the brakes. As Buffett once sang – “We all got them. We all want them. What do we do with them!?”

There has been a lot of progress and evolution in motorcycles as a whole, but tires and brakes have made major strides since I began riding in the 70s.

Having good brakes and using them well should go hand in hand, but we’ll go into braking skills and some tips on how to do it better in a later issue – today we want to talk about your brakes themselves and how you can make them better. Particularly riders with older machines.

We have two machines that are now old enough to drink legally in all 50 states. Shira’s Honda 919 and my Kawasaki KLR 650R.

The Honda came with decent binders from day one, but brakes were somewhat of an afterthought when the KLR was designed. “Oh, we have 10,000 of those old crappy single-piston units? Use them. No worries.”

It has been said if you wish to be better at braking, get pro cient at braking on a KLR.

All machines grow older, and as time rolls past, we either replace them with new rides or decide to keep them and seek to improve their rideability. It is a good thing to have a classic motorcycle that acts and responds like more modern machines. To get to this we’d want to look at the Holy Trinity of Rideability…Tires, Suspension, and Brakes.

Tires are easy. Suspension is the big wallet burner here – but much needed and with both the Honda 919 and KLR 650 receiving Hyperpro Suspension upgrades from EPM Performance, in Tenant, New Jersey, we signi cantly upped their riding performance. Log onto EPM’s site at epmperf.com to see what they have to offer your particular motorcycle.

Now onto the brakes. First, let us look at how most of today’s motorcycle brakes work. Hydraulics.

The front lever and rear pedal activate the master cylinder and the brake uid takes the force from the depressed brake pedal,

translates it into pressure, and sends this pressure to the front and rear brakes to stop a vehicle. Brake uid can’t be compressed, which makes it perfect for use within a hydraulic braking system. There are different types of uid – most commonly DOT 3, 4 & 5. The difference is how each uid is made up chemically. Most modern motorcycles require DOT 3 or DOT 4 but see your owner’s manual for manufacturer recommendation.

Some quick changes are easy –older bikes can bene t from adjustable levers – especially if the rider has smaller hands and needs to cover the brake (& clutch) levers in a better manner. You can nd adjustable levers from many sources.

The Honda had decent dualpiston calipers – meaning there are two pistons in each caliper that push the brake pads to the surface of the spinning rotor creating friction and slowing and stopping the motorcycle. The KLR had ancient single-piston calipers front and rear. The discs were not all that large either.

Here we can turn to the after-market and we did – Galfer.

Started in Barcelona, Spain, in 1946 by Maf o Milesi, Galfer Brakes has been a major European supplier for decades.

Galfer USA has been a USA-based company since 1992 – now situated in Carson City, Nevada, although they still have their parent company in Spain. Both machines were to receive new brake pads, brake lines, and new “wave” disc rotors. Why ‘wave’ rotors? Wave rotors have extra surface area allowing more heat transfer to the surroundings. This allows the rotors to cool faster and make braking more effective.

The KLR – which had been hobbled by the smallish disc rotor - would have a larger replacement, although it would still use the stock caliper -extended out a bit by a bracket. This would allow for a bit more stopping power as the disc’s circumference was further from the center of the wheel. Trust me on this, or ask Mark Byers… he knows how this all really works.

This kit ($354) included a 320mm oversized oating, patented Wave rotor for optimum pad-to-rotor contact, Semi-metallic brake pads, and 6061-T6 aluminum relocating bracket for the caliper. This high-quality, Galfer-patented Wave Rotor is made from a proprietary mix of virgin high carbon 420 stainless steel, laser cut, and was made in the Galfer factory in Spain.

The Honda had a more intrusive problem. Squeal. At every stop, the Brazilian Frog-esque Honda would let out a shrill whine from the rotors. Almost twenty years and some 55,000 miles had taken their toll on the OEM rotors and a new set - both front & rear - was not so much as a wish, but a need.

Swapping all this out is really not as dif cult as it might seem.

Patience, a good size, clean, and well-ordered workspace is a plus and a blessing if you have one. I think doing this on a side street in Astoria, Queens might be a tad more dif cult.

Wheels were removed and the old discs came off with just a bit of a ght. No ame or heat was needed but good tools were a must. Do check your particular bike’s torque speci cations and use them. With new rotors installed and the wheel remounted we then looked to the calipers.

This is where things can get tricky and messy as both the Honda and KLR had ridden many miles before this bit of service and the entire brake systems were dirty inside and out.

Since the lines were to be changed it made sense to drain the old lines rst. To make this an easier and neater job we used a hydraulic brake bleeder and vacuum kit. The one from Pittsburgh Automotive costs just $24.99 from any Harbor Freight and made it very easy to suck out the uid from the master cylinder and old hard rubber brake lines before cracking the banjo bolts loose.

With the calipers in hand, we simply used some aerosol brake cleaner (wear gloves as this is nasty stuff) and a bit of light sandpaper to clean off the pistons, removing years of gunk and grime. A good dollop of high-temp grease on the pad retaining pins was in order as well.

With the new brake pads installed and calipers remounted it was time to swap the lines. Instead of the OEM rubber-style lines, we were going to swap them out for far superior steel-braided brake lines. Braided stainless steel brake lines can withstand the pressure associated with the bike’s brake system and they never swell. As a result, their lifespan is much longer. (certainly more than 20 years) This means they can maintain high performance over a long period. When brakes are applied, these lines offer a rmer and more responsive feel –even with machines about to get historic plates.

The Galfer Brake Lines were exactly matched to the stock size and bends and their 14mm banjo bolts looked to be tougher and more durable than the stock 12mm these bikes came with. They even come with two extra copper crush washers for installation.

(Galfer? They WERE extra, right?)

Once installed the hydraulic brake bleeder was attached to the bleeder valve and attached to the compressor to lightly suck the new and clean brake uid from the master cylinder through the lines and out the bleed nipple.

This was a very quick and easy operation on both bikes, except for the rear of the old KLR. When nothing happened, I removed the bleed nipple valve entirely and soaked it in brake cleaner. Then using an extremely delicate and expensive tool – a paper clip – I began to work out the crud that had built up inside it. Once cleared the brake lines lled quickly. A little note here: all of the master cylinders were dirty and the muck, which was once brake uid, inside both bike’s brakes, was embarrassing.

After the brakes were lled with the hydraulic brake bleeder, they already had a good feel. Some old fashion hand bleeding made that go from good to great.

When all was done both bike’s braking systems were far more substan-

tial and worked far better in all situations.

Rotors, steel-braided brake lines, and brake pads are a bit of an investment. In our case for two machines; but money and time are well spent.

What, do really think your brakes on that old machine of yours are up to snuff? C’mon man… give me a brake! ~ Brian Rathjen ,

INSIDE SCOOP

Continued from Page 18

Their homemade ice cream, in a plethora of avors, will not disappoint. With everything from blueberry to vanilla, including great combos as Coffee Oreo, PB and J, Pumpkin Gingersnap and Maple Bacon, and tantalizing Italian ices in Strawberry Lemonade and Rootbeer, there will certainly be something to tickle your fancy.

Did you catch that wonderful waft of waf e when you came in? These made-to-order waf e cones are the perfect serving platform for your special scoop. You may have to wait the 4 minutes it takes to bake, but well worth it.

Should you be craving a delicious cup ‘o Joe, you’ve come to the right place as their Holland-imported espresso machine will give you just that.

The retro black and white checkered décor accented with red vinyl is the perfect setting to enjoy your dairy delight, whether it be a simple scoop, a sundae, shake, malt or oat or one of Inside Scoop’s famous specialties such as the Atomic Freeze, made with hard ice cream and mixins (think Blizzard but much, MUCH better).

Coming in with a group? Go for the Volcano – the largest sundae in PA, and possibly the entire US. Served in a smoking bowl, it contains 14 scoops of ice cream and 8 toppings, whipped cream, cherries and you’ll get 6 spoons. There are benches outside for that after-sugar rush nap before you take off on the rest of your ride.

The Inside Scoop is located at 301 N 3rd St, Coopersburg, PA (you can’t miss it – Giant Chip is standing right outside – has been since 2017, right after our rst visit) they are open year round (check website for seasonal hours) and it sits in a terri c riding area. See www.insidescoop.com for their latest avors and other interesting information.

I think I’ll stop in soon for a scoop of Black Raspberry – I heard it was to die for…,