July 2024

WHAT’S INSIDE

BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2024. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip &Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

FREE WHEELIN

TakingThe Rap

I would think we have all been through this scenario. You meet somebody, perhaps at a dinner party or family gathering, and when they hear that you ride a motorcycle their whole demeanor and bearing takes a slight shift… Sometimes their head and shoulders will pull back a bit and the eyes might slide from the norm to a slightly sharper gaze. You already know what is coming, or at least you have a short list of what to expect. It usually involves a cousin’s girlfriend’s half-brother long-distance family member recently discovered on Ancestory.com that was killed, maimed, upset, or generally treated rudely by a motorcycle. I recall riding down in an elevator with Shira’s parents, the elevator stopped at another floor and the door opened and a couple with a baby stroller holding twins came on. The woman was blossoming, and obviously going for the Hat Trick family-wise. We all nodded a polite hello to each other.

BRIAN RATHJEN

“Oh, you ride a motorcycle? You know, a girl I went to college with was killed on one of those. You will never see me or my kids on something so dangerous.”

Well, thank you Miss Procreation. What the F**k, lady? I thought. I could feel Shira’s parents stiffen next to me, needlessly angsted by this woman… whose husband sadly kept his eyes averted during this.

Did I bring up the high percentage of PPD in suburban mothers, or how children disappoint their parents as they grow up?

Heck no, I would never do that. That would have been diabolical. Accidents happen. Bad things happen. But, in the United States, the attitude towards motorcycles and motorcycle riders has been horribly skewed for decades with misinformation, disdain, and at times feelings bordering on hatred. In Europe, motorcycles are part of life.

She turned and looked at Shira and me –full Aerostich suits on and helmets in hand. Then she said it. Bad enough that some in the general public feel the need to say something thoughtless and ungracious; but she said it, speaking over our heads to make eye contact with the older couple standing behind us - Shira’s parents. I braced for impact – here it comes.

Here in the US – not so much.

But how did these feeling of contempt get their start? It might have begun in Newark, New Jersey on September 8th, 1912, at the Vailsburg Motordrome outside Newark, NewJersey. This was one of many regional “board tracks”, and due to their circular shape and steep banking we often called “Saucer Tracks.” Bikes would run around these tracks – wide open, no brakes at 90 + miles per hour.

Spectators, on the grandstands above, could get a close-up view of the action, and like many motorsports disasters that happen when spectators are allowed too close – the worst that could happen did.

Eddie Hasha hailed from Waco, Texas, and was a proven champion – he

Continued on Page 6

WHATCHATHINKIN’

WhenThe Big Dogis aWay, The LiTTLe kiTTy Can pLay

30 years of putting together one of, if not THE, finest motorcycle magazines available in the United States, alongside my best friend, husband and partner in adventures, traveling together around the globe, wheel to wheel, through thick and thin. Working side by side, albeit on opposite sides of our office, with 360 issues behind us and who knows how many more ahead. Yes, we spend a lot of time together. Our home, while not palatial, offers enough space for each of us to disappear for those needed alone times – Brian heading to the barn to tinker with a bike, putter on his Hot Wheels track expansion, adjust and tune something on the STI – and me picking and pruning in the wildness of our garden, visiting with our resident frogs or simply taking a walk with Spenser through our peaceful piece of woodland. But I ultimately find myself drawn back to the work of the day, even though the loveliness of late spring/early summer sits right beyond the sliding glass door of the office.

I have to qualify my upcoming words by saying that I absolutely love riding with Brian. While we have certainly ridden with folks over our decades of travel, there is no better riding companion than he. So when I have the chance to venture out on my own, it is refreshing, as I have a manner of wandering and perhaps wicking up my pace a bit more. I do tend to get myself lost, as my sense of direction and attention is sometimes askew, and not matter how many times I may go to a particular place, I still need that little reassurance via zumo or phone prompts.

I also have a cleansing memory, so I may traverse the same roads and visit a site often but each time is a brand new experience for me. Makes for great wonderment in my life. It’s been quite a while since I’ve headed out on my own for a two-wheeled trip. I headed down to the Honda Hoot (see, now THAT’S a long time ago) while Brian was off exploring Alaska and, more recently, took a great dirt course with friends at DC Dirt Camp in Virginia (I cheated and took the Subbie STI). I think I’m probably due for a little stretch of the cables. I was able to do one of my ride-abouts recently while Brian was off with BMW trying not to get into too much trouble in the wilds of Las Vegas. It happened to be perfect riding weather and I had a list of several ice cream places I’d wanted to visit. None were very far, but I wanted to make a good day of it so I plotted a route on roads that I think I had not ridden. Turns out I discovered some pretty cool riding and potentially a nice, new day’s loop for those stolen disappearances from the work day.

With three ice cream stops, I was trying to limit my intake and the dreaded ‘sugar drop’. It started out pretty well with two baby scoops from the Alpine Creamery in Lake Mohawk. After chatting with the owner George for a bit I sat and watched the lunch crowd taking in the lovely spring day while enjoying his homemade ice cream.

Mounting up I was off to discover where I might end up next, as putting roads together via a computer that look entertaining may end up with a very different outcome. As I said, I was not disappointed and eventually made it to my next stop – Diane’s Dairy in Towaco –sitting behind a bank in a little strip mall. Diane was alone in her shop so I talked a bit with her before making my selection, which happened to be just a bit larger than my first serving. Hmm, this was not looking good. I sat on the bench outside, eating and contemplating the day, before taking off for my last stop.

Lake Hiawatha, an outcropping of Parsippany, was a very short distance which I made into a little longer ride to help digest before my next intake. The Dairy at Lake Hiawatha sits on a corner in an eclectic neighborhood featuring a number of Indian restaurants and a comic book shop. Karen, the Dairy’s owner, was very helpful in flavor selection with plenty of tastings so I had pretty much given up on my ‘keeping it little’ attempt, having the largest serving of all.

Having completed my self-assignment, I sipped deeply from my CamelBak and drank in the day as I headed towards home. It was great to be out and about, having a fun play day with just me and my bike. ,

ON THE MARK

sToRies

Ah, the stories we could tell

And if it all blows up and goes to Hell

I wish that we could sit upon a bed in some motel

Just listen to the stories we could tell. Jimmy Buffett - Stories We Could Tell

I’m looking at an old Aerostich Roadcrafter one-piece riding suit. It’s gray, with once-fluorescent-green highlights that the late Bob Higdon said, “Collect dirt faster than anything I’ve worn since diapers.” That’s certainly true of this one, because even though it’s fresh from a Nikwax bath and treatment, the green shoulders and lower legs are nearly the same gray as the suit. It’s frayed in places and its age spots have age spots. This tale is not about the suit so much as what it represents: if you wore it into any place where such things are recognized, you’d have instant credibility and this suit would say, “I have stories.” The same is true of the previous owner. I came to have the suit because a friend decided to walk away from the motorcycle life. It saddens me, because he’s an accomplished rider who has done everything from dirt-track racing to riding the Dalton to the North Slope. He’s a lot like the suit - he has stories to tell and if you ply him with Green Spot Whiskey, you’re likely to get a few, liberally sprinkled with appropriate profanity. I went to see him the other day and

he’d laid out his entire collection of accessories on the driveway. It made me sad to see a man’s motorcycling identity laid so unceremoniously bare next to the bike he no longer chooses to ride. It brought to mind a line from a song by another Jimi: “A broom is drearily sweeping up the broken pieces of yesterday’s life.” I felt guilty - almost dirty - pawing through the well-worn collection. I can only imagine how he felt. I take solace that some of the things were ones I’d shared with him. He knows I will find appropriate homes for his stuff, either in my closet or with a rider who needs them. One jacket is already in the hands of a rider returning to motorcycling after a long absence. My friend will like that.

As I sit here and look at that aged suit, I don’t see a grease spot, I see a man kneeling by a bike on the side of a remote highway, holding a flashlight in his mouth while his equally greasy hands mend the chain. On the lower legs, I see the indelible marks of the gravel from the Dalton Highway, which leaves behind a mud that is irrevocably a part of you, your gear, and your motorcycle: like the memories, it never washes away. I see where the sun shone upon his shoulders as he crossed the Northern Plains and the Badlands, stopping to retrieve the cameras with which he made his living for so many years. His photographs were, and still are, stunning. I see antelope and sunrises and frost on the windscreen. I see the suit keeping him warm as he packs his tent.

What I don’t see on the suit are any marks from mishaps, including the one that convinced him to leave the life: he was wearing different gear that day. I see in

Continued on Page 6

FRee WheeLin’

Continued from Page 3

was called the Texas Tornado a century before Colin Edwards would take that moniker. That sunny Sunday race at the Newark Motordrome had over 5,000 spectators who came down to see some serious motorcycle racing.

On the third lap of the main race, Hasha’s machine began to have mechanical issues, and the racer reached down to see if he could make an adjustment, and as he did the rider behind him went for the pass; Hasha went for the block, but then lost control and turned sharply into the rail surrounding the track.

As the racer and machine skate-boarded the spectator rail they killed a young boy who had his head over the rail to watch the race, and then continued into the crowd killing four others and Eddie Hasha, the bike then hit a pole and shot back, dropping onto the track and right onto the line of last place racer Johnny Albright.

Albright died hours later at a Newark hospital.

It was total mayhem as the crowds ran in panic, trampling many in the mad rush, and leaving many with broken bones and lacerations.

The following days the headlines were not good for the future of Saucer Track racing. America began to sour on motorcycles.

It should be noted on this same day four spectators were killed and almost 20 injured when pilot Pierre Biard lost control of his airplane and plowed into the crowd at an air meet in Gray, Haute-Saône, France.

But the French did not let this spoil the future of aviation in their nation.

Further incidents in the future did not help the motorcyclist’s cause at all, and certainly public opinion was swayed, by an article in Collier’s Magazine by humorist George Fitch. Collier’s was one of the most popular publications of the day – and their words were sometimes taken as Gospel. Although a top contributing editor to Collier’s, and one of the most popular humorists of the day, on this subject Fitch wrote out his cheeks. Admitting that this entire story was told to him (or not) by a friend named Allie Ferris – whom he learned about motorcycles vicariously “with no expenditure of money or epidermis.”

Some of the quotes from Fitch’s piece go like this…

“A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils, and lunatics.” “Don’t you know you can get the same sensations by tying firecrackers to your legs and sitting over an oil heater?”

Yes, George was writing for the laughs – and the entire article is admittedly funny.

But to the American public what was penned tongue-in-cheek was taken as the truth and became dogma for the less adventurous public – which was most of them.

Still, at the end of his parody, Fitch asks his friend if he “really” enjoyed his motorcycle.

“Enjoy it!” Said Allie “Why, man, I swelled up with pleasure. You don’t realize how much fun it is to take a map out and browse over it with a motorcycle. You can take a gallon of gas and make a regular Columbus out of yourself.”

I could not have said it any better, Allie. Good for you. ,

on The MaRk

Continued from Page 5

the suit a long, long motorcycling career blissfully free of harm. I don’t see the marks on the suit, but they are present on the man in the way he wistfully turns the key on the bike for the millionth time to demonstrate that it still starts and runs despite its miles. It’s in the way he shows how the driving lights come on and the heated grips…do not. Following his decision, he took a couple rides to make sure, but he was resolved: the moving hand writes, and having writ, moves on and so has he. He isn’t bored - he’s an amazing archer and once we’d finished with the gear, he took one of my bows and stuck three arrows in the bullseye…touching each other.

So now I have a suit of stories - his stories - to which I can add my own or someone else’s. Some day we’ll be camping or sharing a room at an archery tournament and like Buffett suggested, we’ll be telling stories over a glass of Green Spot. I’m sure many of his will be told from a perspective gained inside the suit. I am sure they too will add a special patina to the garment. ,

BACKLASH

Congestion Pricing Rebuttal

Dearest MTA,

Thanks to your new rules, I will no longer be traveling to NYC by private conveyance, so I guess you got what you wanted. Never mind that NYC businesses will have to absorb (and then pass along to the consumer) the additional costs associated with delivery trucks who MUST go into NYC to supply their customer’s businesses. NYC is an expensive place and you’ve just made it even more so. Nice job.

Also, your decision to go through with charging motorcycles and scooters, even at 50% of the rate for cars and trucks, is antithetical to logic and reason. These light, small footprint vehicles, by their very nature, literally DEFINE the reduction of citywide congestion. Many cities in European countries have had the good sense to EXEMPT motorcycles and scooters from congestion pricing for this very reason. You have failed in that regard. I implore you to reconsider your disgrace to common sense. If Boss Tweed was alive today, he’s be proud of your actions. The rest of us are saddened by your blatant money grab that, in the end will do nothing but escalate prices in NYC to new heights and probably run many more small business folks out of business.

I regret not being able to ride to the EAR Bar on Tuesdays in the summer for an evening of hanging out with the eclectic mc crowd ever again. Bad enough that it costs me $41 and change in tolls just to get there and back as it is (even with EZPass discount), but the added insult of a congestion pricing penalty puts me over the top because I refuse to pay it.

William K. Denton • Lazarus CycleWorks

Shira and Brian,

What a great piece. We are grateful and honored to be featured in such a first class publication. The article will attract the clientele we always desire. Have a great weekend.

Prost,

Will and Andrew • Ye Olde Landmark Tavern

Mark Byers, in your June issue, had me laughing all day. Somewhere west ofCleveland was the best yet; I loved it. Look forward to your magazine - sincerely fabulous.

Thank you,

Mark Butler

The close-up photo of the Curtiss on the cover of the June issue matches the masterful restoration of the motorcycle itself. Excellent choice to render in B&W too!

Larry

Hi Brian,

Your story about your experiences at (and surrounding) the CLASS reunion in the May issue was wonderful. So was the rest of the issue. Wish you a wonderful trip to Japan later this year.

Andy

Mazel Tov on your 30th anniversary! I remember vividly how Backroads started, back on our block in Englewood, NJ. Bruce and I were so happy to welcome you to the neighborhood - especially when Brian put on his Spiderman suit. I’ll never forget how I called, some desperate birthday afternoon, to have Spiderman appear and break our son’s pinata!

Your motorcycling magazine was just a dream then, and you burnished it into reality. I’ve yet to ride (hint, hint) but love reading about your travels. Bruce left us

nearly two years ago, but when I flip open the magazine to Seymour O’Life, I see him again, in his glory.

Keep on truckin!

Love,

Barb

Hey Guys,

It was really good to see you the other night (at the Spring Break). One thing that I forgot to tell you. The May cover is the best one ever. The gold stripe melting into the gold forks-so cool. In my world, I can have the sky any color that suits that particular day. That’s why this cover tickled me teal.

As Ever,

Sindee Lou

REPSOLTO LEAVE MOTOGP - ANENDOFANERA

Spanish oil giant Repsol will no longer sponsor the Honda MotoGP team after 2024, putting an end to one of racing’s most recognized partnerships, Motorsport.com has learned.

Repsol appeared on the livery of the Honda NSR500 in the premier class of the world championship in 1995, with Mick Doohan and Alex Criville as riders.

Since then, the partnership has remained uninterrupted, with the current season marking its 30th anniversary.

The partnership between Repsol and Honda has yielded 15 championship titles, 183 victories and 455 podiums.

MINNESOTA PASSES HISTORIC LANE-FILTERING LEGISLATION

With the signing of HF 5247 into law by Gov. Tim Walz (D) on Friday, May 24, Minnesota became the sixth state to legalize lane filtering. Minnesota is now the easternmost state to legalize lane filtering, and joins California, Utah, Montana, Arizona, and Colorado — which also signed lane filtering into law this year — as states that permit lane filtering.

“With this new ability to filter through slow-moving traffic and at stoplights, riders in Minnesota will benefit from increased safety on the open road,” AMA Central States Representative Nick Sands said. “The recent successes of lane-filtering legislation passing into law in Colorado and Minnesota signal excellent momentum for our efforts in that space, and the overall well-being of our road-riding members.”

As part of a supplemental budget bill — which impacted several departments, including the Minnesota Department of Transportation — motorcyclists in Minnesota will now be allowed to filter through traffic “at not more than 25 miles per hour and no more than 15 miles per hour over the speed of traffic in relevant traffic lanes.” This section of the bill will took effect on July 1, 2025.

CZECH PRESIDENT HAS TRACK INCIDENT

Czech President and long-time motorcycle enthusiast Petr Pavel was injured during a motorcycle ride although not seriously, government officials stated.

“The president was injured while riding his motorcycle,” the president’s office said on social media platform X. “The injuries are not serious but will require a short observation in the hospital.” Czech police said they were not investigating the accident because it happened on a closed racing circuit - not on the road.

Pavel, aged 62, is known for his love of motorbikes. He is believed to be currently riding a BMW R 1250 GS.

A former high-ranking NATO general, Mr. Pavel was elected as the Czech Republic’s president in March 2023, and uses his BMW to attend many official events. A few weeks after his inauguration, he rode a motorbike to the state of Bavaria in neighboring Germany.

“The sun, the wind at your back and the strengthening of neighborly relations with your Bavarian friends. Why not combine the pleasant with the useful,” Pavel wrote in a post on X.

Ed- You gotta love a president that is one of us, and at least when the president of Czech Republic falls off a bike it was almost cool. Just sayin.’

INDIAN MOTORCYCLE ANNOUNCES SPONSORSHIP OF HANDBUILT MOTORCYCLE SHOWIN AUSTIN, TEXAS

Indian Motorcycle announced sponsorship of the renowned Handbuilt Motorcycle Show in Austin, Texas, taking place April 12-14. In conjunction with the show, and in celebration of riding season, Indian Motorcycle will kick off its 2025 Indian Scout demo tour, host its first 2024 Rider Series owners ride and showcase a lineup of artfully designed custom motorcycles. Why would a northeast mag care? Because the Handbuilt Motorcycle Show is one of the best in the nation and well worth attending – especially with MotoGP in town as well!

The Handbuilt Motorcycle Show presents an awe-inspiring display of creations from builders and artisans who blend expertise, craftsmanship and innovation to craft truly unique hand-built machines. This event presents Indian Motorcycle with an opportunity to showcase its legendary and truly iconic machines in the city of Austin while simultaneously celebrating the city’s iconic motorcycle culture.

THE GREATEST RACEON EARTH BEGINSFILMING

The legendary Isle of Man TT motorcycle race will be the subject of a film and docuseries from Brad Pitt and Channing Tatum’s production companies, Mediawan-owned Plan B Entertainment and Free Association.

The Isle of Man TT is one of the most famous and deadly races for motorcyclists around the world. Taking place on a small island nation in the Irish Sea, the race traces its heritage back to the early 1900s when road racing was outlawed in England, and racers found refuge on the Isle of Man. A single lap of the course is made up of 37.7 miles across the island’s road systems as the bikes tackle country lanes and city streets at speeds up to 200 mph.

Production on The Greatest Race on Earth will follow this June’s Isle of Man race.

AMA ANNOUNCES 2024 ISDEU.S. TEAMS

The American Motorcyclist Association is thrilled to announce the 10 Trophy and 21 Club Team riders who will represent the United States at the 98th FIM International Six Days Enduro (ISDE), which takes place Oct. 14-19 in Galicia, Spain.

The 10 Trophy riders will make up the U.S. World Trophy, Junior World Trophy and Women’s World Trophy teams. Each participating country is allowed four riders on its World Trophy team, three riders 23 or younger on its Junior Trophy team, and three female riders on its Women’s Trophy team.

The United States hopes to build off a strong showing in 2023, in which its World Trophy and Women’s World Trophy teams brought home first-place finishes. The U.S. Junior World Trophy team earned a second-place finish, while U.S. Club Team XC Gear finished first among club teams. ,

Wanamakers General Store presents GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN

WaTeRs eDge 487 Us-46, BeLviDeRe, nJ 07823 • 908-799-3390

On the far western edge of the Garden State along Route 46, just outside the river town of Belvidere, New Jersey, you will find this month’s stop on the Great All-American Diner Run.

For those of you who might be familiar with this state road and have their image painted and tainted by the monster Route 46 is to the east – let us tell you that out here in Warren County it is a very different story. In this part of New Jersey, the pavement quietly follows the Pequest River as it meanders to the Delaware.

Shira and the Southern Contingent Gals discovered the Waters Edge early last year – and came away raving about the food and atmosphere. Since then we have been back a few times and were impressed with each visit and the Waters Edge has become a solid place for lunch on a nice day’s ride; we have never been disappointed.

The owner and man running Waters Edge’s superior kitchen is Craig Kelemen and between the grill and the smoker, he seems to have it all in hand – even if he is wearing several different hats.

Craig bought the building in 2016 at an auction, as the building sat empty for about 5 years, previously being the old Gunnar’s Landing. It took a couple of years to renovate the place and opened for business at the end of 2018.

Riding up you will catch a whiff of the smoker working its magic.

tasty places to take your bike

These days, although the menu and specials change from time to time, you will find some serious burgers, pizzas, quesadillas, tacos, and all kinds of sandwiches.

According to Craig, “I also liketo put in some nicerbistro-like specials, I’ve been cooking in the area for about 30 years and I’m still in the kitchen most days, if not all days.”

The Waters Edge is just a comfy place, so take a seat on the tent-covered deck that looks out at the Pequest River. The Pequest is a 35-mile river that means “Open Land” in the Lenape language, and it empties into the Delaware not far from here but has its start not far from Backroads Central – international epi-center of this humble magazine.

They also have tables on the grass, right along the Pequest, offering a very serene meal.

The folks at Waters Edge love riders and they have motorcycle parking right in front of the building.

When Shira and crew first visited the food was most excellent – but there was an overwhelming gush about the Truffle Fries – with shaved Romano cheese – so when we came back they were a ‘must have’ – and certainly did not let us down.

Sticking with the bar-style food on one visit we tried their Wings – not sure if they were chicken or pterodactyl ‘cause they were huge, meaty, and delicious. For you salad lovers the Waters Edge offers up some great plates and the Caesar was superb.

We also gave their Fish & Chips a go, and the cod was perfectly battered and fried and served with a scrumptious tartar sauce, fries, and a slice of shortbread.

On a return trip, we ordered their kielbasa with spätzle and German Slaw. Big sausages, grilled just right and crispy, and the slaw, spätzle, and kartoffelpuffer were “so lecker!”

This restaurant has a lot to offer – and is a great mix of all the ingredients for a happy Great All-American Diner Run. Superb location, great ambiance, awesome eats, and, of course, fantastic backroads! There are plenty of fantastic backroads coming from any direction so be creative, go exploring, and then sit yourself down for one terrific meal at the Waters Edge.

Warren County Tourism presents BIG CITY GETAWAY

The DenoF MaRBLeToWn • The TeDDy BeaR

MUseUM

1 BasTen Lane, kingsTon, neW yoRk 12401

845-687-6441 • TheDenoFMaRBLeToWn.CoM

Here at Backroads Central, we’re perpetually on the lookout for places of interest, museums, and collections that entice, bring a smile, and maybe some memories back as well.

Certain museums appeal to different types of people. Pilots will be drawn to air museums, boaters to boat museums, and those that love fine art… well, to art museums. Somewhere in their lives they probably have had a plane, boat, or a fine painting. Not everyone has had a plane, boat, or a mother to whistle at.

But we bet everybody had a Teddy Bear at one time in their life, and this month’s Big City Getaway will head to a smaller city, but one that was once the capital of New York – Kinston - and to a very special museum -The Den of Marbletown. The Teddy Bear Museum. We were heading north through New York and knowing about the Den we made our plans and were more than amazed at what we found inside the stately old home on the hill.

But first a bit of history on the Teddy Bear…According to the National Park Service, the story goes like this:

daytrip ideas to get out of the

Did you know that the Teddy Bear was invented in honor of President Theodore Roosevelt? It all began when Teddy Roosevelt was on a bear hunting trip, but unlike other hunters in the group, Theodore had not bagged a single bear. Roosevelt’s assistants cornered and tied a black bear yearling to a willow tree. They summoned Roosevelt and suggested that he shoot it. Viewing this as extremely unsportsmanlike, Roosevelt refused to shoot the bear. Bully for you, Mr. President!

The story spread and the Teddy Bear was born.

Teddy Bear Fun Fact: A teddy bear is the official national symbol of Japan

Entering the museum, which states that it is a celebration of hand-crafted toys and childhood nostalgia, we were greeted by Steve, one of the people who helped create The Den, and he keeps an eye on all the bears. There are a lot of bears, more than 5,000, and who knows what they can get into each night?

Teddy Bear Fun Fact:

In the early 1900s, bears were used as comfort dolls for soldiers during World War I because they felt gentle and non-threatening.

Although the museum celebrates all Teddys – there is one that is cherished most of all. Steiff.

Steiff is the German company that invented the Teddy Bear, as we know it, more than 100 years ago. Today Steiff is considered the world’s premier manufacturer of high-end toys and collectibles.

Indeed, Steiff is the only “luxury” toy brand in the marketplace today.

Here at the Den of Marbletown – you will learn about this make of bears and many others too.

Many of the Teddy Bears you will see are “on loan’ from private collections We feel a collection is far more important when it is shared and here at the Den they do just that.

The core of the collection comes from “Gracebear,” a Steiff enthusiast who

continues collecting to this day. Gracebear’s other collections rotate throughout the museum as temporary exhibits, including Madame Alexander dolls, Barbies, Schuco toys and bears, and hand-carved wooden toys.

The history of the Teddy Bear (and Teddy Roosevelt); the poignant story of Margarete Steiff, the founder of the luxury toy company; and the design evolution of the Teddy Bear are some of the displays featured in this section of the museum.

There are a few Teddy Bears here that are truly special – like the Rod Bear. On Loan from the collection of the late Mary Couke is the exquisite and rare 1904 Rod Bear, considered by many as “The Holy Grail” of Steiff Collectors. This bear features an early design attempt at movable joints through three metal rods in the body - horizontal ones for legs and arms, and a vertical one for the head.

Teddy Bear Fun Fact:

Teddies are the world’s favorite toy, leading children worldwide to create over 6 billion stuffed animals yearly.

Each room of the two-story old home hides more beariffic things to see and discover.

Oh, Star Trek Bears… that is logical.

More than a few Teddy Roosevelt bears, the very Parrothead Lora, and one or two Teddy Bear of Goliath proportions.

We think the Den of Marbletown, and the Teddy Bear Museum a very special place. There is a café’ there as well, and you can enjoy some coffee, tea, baked goods, or a light lunch after exploring the Den.

We see bear a lot around Backroads Central, so we will give you a 95-mile ride that will give you the best chance of seeing the real deal. Enjoy , Download .GPS file: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/ou00tf

WE’RE OUTTA HERE

The RiveR’s eDge 3351 ny-97, BaRRyviLLe, ny 12719 845-456-0179 • WWW.RiveRseDgeny.CoM

Route 97, which hugs the Delaware River most of its way north from Port Jervis to Hancock, New York, is a great road, and a motorcycle-riding favorite since the old Hawk’s Nest Café days.

Sadly, some things have passed away, but on the bright side… new places come into view. This has just happened recently at the crossroads in the hamlet of Barryville.

Barryville is named for William T. Barry, postmaster general under President Andrew Jackson. The community grew up around the D&H Canal, which opened in 1828 and operated until 1898. The canal ran through what is today the center of the hamlet, and the canal company operated several stores, an office, and a dry dock there.

The Delaware River also served as the conduit for timber cut in the area and rafted to Philadelphia for use in the shipbuilding industry. Men made fortunes in the timber business, and when the industry died in the middle of the 19th century, many river communities died with it. In fact, writing in 1899, John Willard Johnston, lawyer, historian, and the town of Highland’s

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads

first supervisor, predicted a dire future for Barryville.

“Barryville is a small, poor village now,” he wrote, “but at one time supported an active business. The lumber of the region is being exhausted, the business of canaling declining and now abandoned, it has for the last 25 years been waning, until now it seems to have reached a bottom of hardpan. Human imagination can hardly reach anything in the future likely to improve it, but it will probably remain indefinitely the small poor place it now is.” Boy, was John Willard Johnston more than a tad off on this prediction.

We have been coming up this way for decades, and the intersection of Route 55 and 97, marked by a blinking light, has long been considered the heart of Barryville. Directly in front of you, as you sit at the intersection, is the bridge to Shohola, Pennsylvania.

Shohola is Lenape for “Place of Peace.” And, it is –this part of the river surely is one of the most beautiful sections in the river’s 282 free-flowing miles. It is right here that you will find the River’s Edge Restaurant and Motel.

This building has so much local history, as years back it was called Clouse’s, then Reber’s for years, and more recently The Carriage House.

A few years back we saw that the historic building was getting a much-needed facelift, and soon the River’s Edge opened its doors.

We have been there a number of times since, and their restaurant was featured in the November 2023 edition of the Great All-American Diner Run.

This month we’d like to feature the other half of the Rivers Edge – and something that has long been a part of this place – the motel.

When the new owners took over, they had a mighty task ahead of themselves, and the restaurant and bar are amazing – the food and service all bring smiles,

and this place will continue to be a favorite for riders heading up and along the Delaware.

When we visited in early spring the rooms were all beautifully renovated,

and wonderfully captured the flavor of this historic riverside hamlet, yet with the modern touches and amenities you have come to expect these days.

During the summer, after a great day’s exploration of Sullivan County, with the bikes parked for the night, there will be firepits raging, smiles to be had, and a great summer-time vibe to be found where the Halfway Brook meets the edge of the river and we can see some seriously memorable nights going down - especially with the restaurant and plentiful bar lying right along the river.

The River’s Edge has a number of rooms and the prices range from $175 to $225 a night depending on dates and holidays.

While riding along the river stop in for the food, or the night – the River’s Edge loves to have riders rolling up!

Ride Safe, Ride Smart. Ride the Backroads ,

haDRosaURUs FoULki • JeRsey’s DinosaUR son

More than a bit ago – like 75 million years, give or take - a plant-eating beast named Haddy was enjoying a late afternoon bite of some leafy trees and shrubs along the ocean side. He was thinking… “Wow, life is good, and I am great, and I am hungry!” “Hmmm, Haddy,” he thought to himself, “Those leaves look especially scrumptious.” They were just out of reach. The big lizard leaned forward, and then leaned some more…

Back in these days the ground and the Earth was not all that stable, and as he leaned a tremblor rolled the ground and Haddy toppled down a cliff and into the mucky, muck, muck that ran into the sea. His last thoughts, after “oh oh”… as the marl covered his big head was, “How did this just happen? I am too great for this… oh well I’m screwed. Still, someday they will make a statue of me.” Then he died. So sad.

Slingshot forward 75 million years, give or take.

AMERICA

The first huge bone to be discovered was in England in 1677 by a man named Robert Plot, whose best guess at the massive bone was that it belonged to an ancient giant human. One hundred and fifty years later the first professor of geology at Oxford University, William Buckland, correctly identified the bone as belonging to an extinct monstrous lizard of some type. Buckland’s discovery started an intense interest in our Earth’s past, and finally in 1842 Sir Richard Owen named the family of fossils “Dinosauria,” meaning “terrible lizard.” With that, the name “dinosaur” was coined; and around the planet, children rejoiced.

Sixteen years later, in the summer of 1858, a fossil hobbyist named William Parker Foulke was vacationing in Haddonfield, New Jersey, when he heard that twenty years previous, workers had found gigantic bones in a local marl pit. Foulke spent the late summer and fall directing a crew of hired diggers to start excavating the gray muck. During the dig, they found the bones of an animal. A big

animal. It was larger than an elephant, but it seemed to have the structural features of both a lizard and a bird.

Foulke had discovered our friend Haddie, the same very hungry and slightly clumsy beast from way back when – and coming across the first nearly complete skeleton of a dinosaur would be an event that would rock the scientific world and forever change our view of natural history.

Today, located on a street lined with nice houses that dead ends against deep woods, this very historic site is marked with a modest commemorative stone and a tiny landscaped park. Just beyond the stone, the ground drops away into the steep ravine where the bones of Hadrosaurus Foulkii were originally excavated on the eve of the Civil War.

The “Ground Zero” of Dinosaur Paleontology.

Wait, but Seymour you said that Haddy died by the ocean - not east of Philadelphia. Well, kids, back then, what we know as southern New Jersey was under the oceans, and the world was a very mean and savage place – and that was before Philly fans got a team that seems unstoppable. (know that the owners of this magazine are die-hard Mets fans)

About the history of dinosaur paleontology, this Haddonfield Hadrosaurus site truly is the beginning; it was here that the world’s collective fascination with dinosaurs began.

We recently took a ride down to the Hadrosaurus site, which is maintained by the Christopher Brees family, a boy scout who created the site for his Eagle Scout ranking in 1994. Pulling up to the site there was a picnic table with a rather eclectic gathering of all sorts of tiny dinosaurs – the Hadrosaurus most obviously the boss of this brood. Having the toy dinosaurs must be a great hoot for the kids – I know it was for us.

Visitors can still climb down crude paths into the 30-foot, vine-entangled chasm to stand in an almost primordial quiet at the actual marl pit where the imagination of all mankind was exploded outward to embrace the stunning fact that our planet was once ruled by fantastically large, bizarrely shaped reptilian creatures.

Not far from the site, in the center of the town of Haddonfield along a small walkway called Lantern Lane, at King’s Highway, you will find Haddy’s sculpture – full-size 17-foot tall Hadrosaurus.

This amazing piece of art was designed and created by renowned sculpturer John Giannotti, and it seems that our Haddy from so long ago got its final wish – and now keeps an eye peeled at shoppers making their way up and down the busy shopping center of the town.

A town that you will find along the byways of this Mysterious America. ,

The DaiRyaT Lake hiaWaTha 79 n BeveRWyCk RD, Lake hiaWaTha, nJ

973-316-6686 • FinDTheMon FaCeBook • hoURs: 7 Days @ 11a-9/9:30p

Sum-Sum-Sum-Sum-Sum-Sum-Summertime! The days are long, the sun is hot and the riding is incredible. What could be better than spending a day exploring on two wheels with a break for a creamy, smooth ice cream. BEST-DAY-EVER!

I had a free day to do a little research riding while Brian was out testing BMWs in Las Vegas. And it was a perfect day, indeed, sampling the wares at three different dairy shops which you, my readers, will come to know and love in the upcoming months. For July, which happens to be National Ice Cream Month (if you’ve been reading my column, you should all know the story by heart) we’ll head to a dairy which has been churning out their own ice cream for 35 years.

Welcome to the Dairy at Lake Hiawatha.

John and Karen Pascarella opened the Dairy in 1989 under the Carvel franchise which became independently owned in 2000. Since then they have developed over 50 flavors, made on-site daily. Over their 35 years they have become a neighborhood staple for after sports, graduations, date night and just to celebrate summer, although The Dairy is open year round, as ice cream truly has no one season for enjoyment. The Dairy sits on N Beverwyck Rd, a commercial street, which has plenty of parking. As I rolled up on my 919, there was a spot right in front – great photo op. There is some seating outside so you can people-watch while slurping ice cream, as well as an indoor parlor.

Once entering, the ice cream cases beckon to peak into each, as the imaginative flavors and colors tantalize the taste buds. My thoughts went back to Jahn’s Kitchen Sink and wished for a large bowl with all these delicious flavors. The young lady behind the counter was kind enough to indulge my ‘taste testing’ and, while I did try to limit it, there were so that I knew before I even started I’d be back for more. Here’s just a few from their rotating menu: Brownie Batter, Toasted Coconut, Blueberry Pie, Black Raspberry, Mango Coconut, Blueberry Lavender, Cherry Blossom and Peaches & Cream. All those in addition to the usual standards of Vanilla Bean, Coffee, Mint Chocolate Chip and, yes, even regular Chocolate. What caught my tongue was something called Bees Knees, which is graham cracker ice cream with chocolate covered honey comb. And, yes, it is truly as delicious as it sounds. The glossy, creamy ice cream with just a touch of cinnamon (I thought) sparkled with the crunch of the honey comb. I almost didn’t want to taint this wonderful flavor with another, but my mind said differently so I added a scoop of Lemon Strawberry Shortbread. The sweet-tart mixture with pieces of shortbread were a very good combination and compliment to the Bees Knees.

You can have your ice cream the neat way, as do, in a cup or there are so many other serving vehicles from which to choose: regular cone, a variety of waffle cones, sun-

daes, shakes, floats, sprinkles, toppings, etc. Should you have a special occasion, or just Tuesday, Amy – cake decorator extraordinaire – will be happy to work with you to create the perfect centerpiece for your needs. Sitting outside, there was a young family with the little boy exuberantly enjoying his ice cream, sharing it with almost every part of his body. Taking in the wonderful weather, the entertainment added to the dis-

covery of another great ice cream spot to share with you, as well as return to with Brian. While Parsippany, which incorporates Lake Hiawatha, is not the best offering for riding, I managed to find some new-to-me roads which kept my tires happy and I’m sure you can too.

Happy National Ice Cream Month – perhaps a visit to The Dairy at Lake Hiawatha on July 21 will be in order. ,

AEROSTICH ROADCRAFTER TWO-PIECE RIDING SUIT

My buddy Jeff Adams - the technical guru from the very missed Whitehorse Gear – asked me a few weeks back, “Why do you always wear an Aerostich?”

Although Jeff is one of the most knowledgeable moto-men I know, he has had no real experience with Duluth’s finest, and knowing I have been one of the faithful for decades – he wanted to know why, as he was in the market for some new riding apparel, thought he’d ask me my thoughts on what was good, and not so good about the Aerostich Roadcrafter.

I have been riding with an Aerostich suit since before we began printing Backroads, and it is still my “Go-To” riding gear whether it be to town on an errand, or on the road for the next three weeks, and there are many reasons for this.

Over the winter I decided that my old gray with yellow suit, although still in decent running condition, was getting a bit tight on the legs, and waist –funny how this happened, as Cordura does not shrink- but over the years I have found that I am a late evening cookie addict, and screw any 12-Step Program for this, I go for them, and let the Chips Ahoy lay where they may. This time around I ordered a bit more open on the waist, and thighs, and went for a different color combination entirely – gray with orange Now, hung in the barn, are the last three Aerostich Riding Suits that I have

owned – spanning three decades of use. 30 hard years.

Although they all still are very rideable, (I used my oldest suit in Spain last year), after all the miles, day-to-day use, and abuse – it was time.

But to answer Jeff’s query – I will share why I prefer riding with a Roadcrafter, over the many, many offerings on the market today; and why I stick with these suits rather than run to the next “Cool Must Wear Apparel” I read off the Oprah’s of digital moto world blog.

With real riding gear, there are certain criteria that must be met. Sure, style and comfort come into play, but rightly take a back seat for performance, durability, and protectiveness – especially when you need a combination of all three.

When Andy Goldfine (AKA Mr. Subjective) began Aerostich back in 1983 the idea was to develop a completely new type of textile-based gear for motorcyclists. What Andy wanted was a lightweight garment offering convenience, comfort, and high levels of protection in bad weather and crashes — all combined in a coverall suitable for everyday use.

There was nothing like this on the market – so Andy decided to create it, and the Roadcrafter Suit was born; and the motorcycle apparel game was changed forever. Up until then, most rode with jeans and leather jackets. Maybe you had some leather pants or such. If you were a seasoned rider,

you probably had a rain suit stashed somewhere – usually buried as equally deep as how hard the rain would be coming down.

But with the introduction of the Aerostich Roadcrafter, a riding suit created with then “Space-Age” Cordura material that was easy to put on and take off, was fairly stylish, and…oh my God… was mostly water-proof?

Who makes this? NASA?

But…wait - you can wear the suit over your normal day-to-day wear, or a business suit?

Who makes this? My Mother?

Being able to become a normal Earth person in seconds is one of the key advantages of the Aerostich Roadcrafter Suit.

Oh, it is a lot to hang on a bar stool, or in a diner

booth. But we just toss them on the bikes and let them hang off the fairing. I don’t care if it’s in the weather, and the only person who really might steal it is Tony Stark - simply for design espionage.

In truth “Cordura” has been around for almost 100 years, first created by DuPont scientists who were working to improve on the properties of rayon…when, in 1928, a rubber company asked for a rayon yarn that would be stronger than cotton for tire cords.

Out of the cooperation among scientists—ranging from studies of cellulose as a high polymer to design of enormous plants—came a new product, “Cordura” high-tenacity rayon, as strong as mild steel yet able to stand up under repeated flexing.

Today you will find this material used for a variety of applications – but back then, Aerostich’s new Cordura suit was a game changer.

Today the Minnesota company offers a wide variety of colors and combinations, and they have over 60 different size offerings with suits built with

500 Denier TLTex fabric, with 1000 Denier TLTex at the impact zones. The TLTex fabric membrane contains 9 billion microscopic pores per square inch, each one 20,000 times smaller than a drop of water but 700 times larger than a water vapor molecule. So, while perspiration can get out, it’s tough for outside wetness and wind to get in. It is cooler than leather in the heat, warmer than leather in the cold, and drier under all conditions. All seams are hot-tape sealed.

They are pretty watertight.

Style & Comfort:

Style really comes down to taste and attitude. Some people can meet Royalty wearing ripped denim jeans and jackets and easily get away with it. Then there are others who even Sy Syms could never help.

Where some think M-L-XL, with an Aerostich suit, well, let’s take some measurements, ‘cause size does matter.

I am aware that walking into a building with Earth people, wearing an Aerostich, gets reactions all the time. Sometimes a fearful one; as I have been taken as a firefighter on many occasions, and people start looking for the reason the fire department is at the Post Office or Walmart.

But that is part of the style – we want to be noticed as riders, do we not? The company offers five standard colors for the main suit, and ten colors for the abrasion area – shoulders, elbows, and knees.

With the right combination of colors, an Aerostich Roadcrafter can match any modern riding gear in conspicuity. Go nuts, kids – it’s your riding suit… and you will have it for a long time. Trust me.

You can buy a Classic Roadcrafter in one or two-piece versions.

Some prefer the onesie – we prefer the two-piece, though Shira keeps hers zipped together, and I prefer having both jacket and pants.

A separate, and armored, jacket comes in handy, and will prevent the dreaded accumulation of bad tourist sweatshirts from mustering in your closet.

The fully armored jackets have nine pockets, venting under the arms and along the back, and the arms have slightly rotated sleeves for a more natural fit – especially when riding.

The jacket overlaps the pants by about six inches. It is attached to the pants with a securely sewn 270º circumferential very sturdy two-way zipper. The Roadcrafter Pants have a waist drawstring with cord locks, and belt loops, and there are two additional pockets sewn into its lining accessible behind the flaps covering the side zippers. These allow easy access to your street clothes underneath.

I have found my Aerostich to be exceptionally comfortable from 40º to 90º when worn over everyday clothes.

Protection:

Riding suits are here for one purpose – protection. With the removable hard shell TF3 or TF6 elbow and shoulder armor, Optional TF3 back protector, generous 3M Scotchlite reflective areas, adjustable anti-flutter sleeve tabs, and removable magnetic collar clasps my suits fit like Iron Man’s armor (Okay, without the Repulsor Rays, and Micro-Guns. That’s a hint, Andy!)

It is flexible, superbly comfortable, and tough.

My pants also have the optional Hip Pad Armor as well, completing the all-around fortification.

I have seen Roadcrafter suits take some serious abuse, on tracks and public roads, and the suits slide well, and the armor does its job as best as any armor can, and it is easily equal to or better than anything else on the market – except for a full-on road racing set of leathers with an air-vest.

Convenience:

I have mentioned that these suits are traditionally worn over street clothes – and this really makes for an easier life, once you have mastered the Roadcrafter dance to get on and off – you amaze your friends and loved ones with how quickly you can go from the Golden Avenger to Tony Stark. But it is that other thing that really makes the Aerostich Roadcrafter Suit so easy to live and ride with – it is waterproof. Or about as waterproof as riding gear can get. It is a joy to keep on riding when the skies

open up, and having to stop for other riders who have less forethought can eventually get irksome. These same people will have you stopping a half hour later to take their rain suits off when the sun returns.

Have you just realized this could be you? Oh, well. If the “off-the-rack” suit fits, wear it.

To be able to keep rolling along when the barometer plummets or rises is more than a blessing, and a massive time-saver.

With the custom builds of these suits, there is also a women’s version that allows for narrower shoulders, a curve at the waist, and a bit more room at the hips and bust.

There are Velcro attachments on the left thigh or arm for their map pockets – making paper directions much easier to read.

If you wear your Aerostich as much as I do, it will get dirty – the spoils of a life well-traveled.

Aerostich recommends Nikwax products to keep your suit looking good and waterproof. The suit is machine washable and very easy to maintain.

The Bottom Line:

The Aerostich Roadcrafter Suits simply work.

They are easy to use. Superb in so many weather conditions, and have resilience and toughness that are hard to come by, in these mass-produced in China days.

Each suit is hand-made at Aerostich Secret Duluth, MN lair, which looks like a great old industrial building. Their craftspeople even sign their work. Once upon a time, they called that pride.

But a Roadcrafter Riding Suit is not cheap – the jacket sells for around $900 and the pants for $800 - plus any additional custom work you wish to add in.

So, figure this is a Two Grand investment; and it is an investment; but, one that will make your riding that much more enjoyable and easy; and if ever called upon to do the serious work of protecting your ‘more fragile than you think’ body – it will do that tough job as well.

Log onto aerostich.com for more information. ,

Words Brian Rathjen • Images Kevin Wing • Jonathon Beck

Now and again you will read about a new machine being introduced to the public and that the ‘Media Launch’ was held to get more, pertinent and hopefully unbiased opinions about these new machines to the motorcycle-riding public.

That would be you, kids.

The moto-journalists covering these new machines, more times than not, have to do a bit of traveling to attend these soirees, and ride these new motorcycles.

For years press events like this happened on a fairly regular basis but, in this slightly different Zoom-powered world, these days not so much. Watching from my desktop, with a cup of coffee wearing a Backroads button-down shirt, and my Spider-Man pajama bottoms never felt right, and there were never any bikes to ride.

So, when we got an invitation from BMW to go to Las Vegas at the end of April to give two new, and very different, machines a whirl we were happy to say yes – if not just to see, learn about, and ride these new Beemers, but we knew we’d probably ride to some places that would be new to

us. For some a motorbike means speed and freedom. To some of the writers coming to this Sin City event, it is a passion that has become happy employment.

For me, it has been a mix of all these, but mostly motorcycles are a means of exploration. To see what is over the hill, or around that next bend.

The question has been asked several times – is Backroads a motorcycle magazine that wants to be a travel and history monthly, or a travel and history monthly that wants to be a motorcycle magazine? Well, the answer has always been… Yes. Exactly.

So, with an opportunity to spend some miles in Sin City, and the wide-open desert and mountains that surround Las Vegas we were a bit pumped; especially when the two machines were so polar opposite of each other.

The new F 900 GS, and BMW’s electric urban scooter, the CE 02.

This would be interesting for sure.

Flights were booked, flown, and uneventful; except for the bad choice of watching the film ISS – the most horribly depressing “I wanna jump out of the jet” sort of bad film. It took three episodes of Rick & Morty for me to start feeling happy again after that wretched, monstrously depressed film.

On the ground at Harry Reid, my Ogio Gear Bag collected, and a quick drive to our base camp, I got settled in taking in the view of the city from a dozen stories in the air.

BMW and the excellent Premier Group that would be handling the media launch had us at the Renaissance Resort, right off The Strip, and next to the amazing new Orb that is the newest WOW of Sin City.

These Press Rides generally run along the same line. There was a short cocktail party followed by an in-depth PowerPoint presentation of the two machines – the F 900 GS and the CE 02.

There is little argument that BMW started the adventure craze that has swept through both riders and showroom floors, but over the last number of years, although still the strongest force with which to reckoned sales-wise in the larger segment of the ADV craze, other manufacturers have whittled away at BMWs once untouchable lead in the market.

Triumph, KTM, Yamaha, and others have made strong offerings in the mid-size ADV market – and BMW has answered with the F 900 GS. The all-new 900 GS is not a reworked version of the previous offering from Berlin, but a more or less clean sheet of paper machine – boasting less weight, more power, and superior handling from what came before.

The scooter - that was a big question for me. With the F 900 GS, I could see the hill on which to fight the battle – and it was made of dirt, gravel, and market share… The CE 02…well?

This was certainly a European idea of Urban Warfare – but European cities are not much like American cities – and a smallish electric machine, with an equally smaller range, had me wondering; but I was there to ride, enjoy and my thought has always been to not prejudge any machine or motorcycle and to take them on their own merits.

I have a tee shirt that says ‘Often Wrong, Always Confident.’ Ain’t that the truth?

Day One: F 900 GS Desert, Mountains, and the Vista…

There was a fairly large contingent of journalists here for this – mostly web-heads and just a smattering of real paper scribes – as it seems we are a fading, if still majestic, breed.

The route this day headed out from Las Vegas and scooted on larger roads heading along the Desert National Wildlife Refuge.

The F 900 GS engine was far snappier and more responsive than the previous mid-size F-bikes, and the massive fully adjustable 45mm Showa front end and Sachs rear suspension, offered a smooth and planted feel – even nearing triple-digits.

The Dakar-like windscreen did a fair job of protection – but just barely, and would be one of the first stock parts that I’d shelve and upgraded.

We took an access road to the National Wildlife Refuge – with signs asking us to beware of errant tortoises (that look a lot like the abounding rocks), and then had the option of riding up and around the surrounding peaks.

If BMW’s thought was to show us that the new F 900 GS was aimed directly at the heart of the ADV riders,

well this was the road to prove it.

The total loop would be near about 50 miles, there and back – and I was good for about half this – as knowing my limitations has kept me in this game for a good number of seasons.

Still even looping up the peaks, and then doing a little exploring on my own I got a feel on how well the new F 900 GS worked in some very rough terrain

as 75% of this road was run along small baby head-ettes, and sharp shrapnel that was ready to pounce, slip and grab a rider if they suddenly develop tentativeitis; or had drifting attention, both of which I excel at. Still, the 21-inch wheel and superior suspension allowed for a solid and fairly confident ride, even with just barely adequate loose gravel skills. No tortoises were harmed by me.

Some of the other riders – even with more dust than blood cells in their veins – had some minor issues. Gravity and exuberance are one thing. Dented rims are another.

Hit hard enough any rim can be dented, and there were one or two that had to be made airtight Bedrock-style before we rolled on, up into the mountains that surround Las Vegas on some stellar paved twolane roads on which I felt far more at home.

Here, for me, the F 900 GS – even with the Metzler Karoo knobbies on – was well planted, responsive, and a real blast, and unlike the couple of dozen miles of rock and gravel I had previously ridden – here I was a bit more in my element.

This version of the GS has 105 horses, along with 68.6 lb-ft, to play with on a light 482-pound wet package.

The sky and the road opened up, as we road into the mountains still crowned with deep snow even as we rolled into May, and as we passed 8,000 feet the air, now at a chilly 50 degrees, took on a most wonderful taste. Clear, wholesome, and delicious.

Unless the air is crap, I never think about it; but the atmosphere heading up the Mount Charleston Lodge was exemplary.

Here at the top of the mountain in Kyle Canyon’s Humboldt Toiyabe National Forest at 7,717 feet elevation is a picturesque old mountain lodge that has been serving travelers since the early part of the last century.

Over the years it has been built, burned down, built again, burned down and built again… but we hope this great new incarnation

sticks around as it is very pretty, in a rustic and opulent way, and if we could do a Backroads Rally here, we surely would.

After lunch, our group headed back down through the Red Rock Canyon, with its almost blood-red rusty tone and flavor created from the iron found in abundance in this Aztec Sandstone.

We took another short gravel-based route – but this was far less hardcore than the pernicious gravel we had played with that morning, and taking a break while Ace photographers Kevin Wing and Jonathon Beck made the more modest riders look good and the excellent riders look like Gods.

By late afternoon we stopped for dessert in the desert – at a restaurant called Cottonwood Station. This place has long been a favorite of local riders – like the Alice’s Restaurant is to California coast riders, or the Hawks Nest once was for us. Superb pastries and even better coffee.

We had to fuel up before getting back to The Strip, and one thing of important note is that BMW worked on making this bike, not only more powerful, but lighter. One of the ways they did this was with a plastic 3.8-gallon fuel tank – just a tad shy of the previous F 850 GS tank. It’s more road-worthy brother – the F 900 GS Adventure - carries a full 6 gallons.

Although I do understand what they were going for, The GS, to me at least, was always a machine of travel and adventure. It needs to have long legs and range. The adventure should not be searching out fuel stations multiple times during the day. With this fuel cell, it is more Gelände, than Straße. By early evening we almost charged through Las Vegas sprawl – with Jim, Gena, and the rest of the crew from Premier herding us through rush hour in a most excellent, if slightly law-twisting, style.

Dinner that night at Piero’s, an old-style Vegas icon that, unlike so much of the ‘created make-believe’ of most of Vegas, simply felt like we had just strolled into a Martin Scorsese film… The real deal, if you catch my meaning?

Wait. We just did. Casino was filmed here.

Day Two: CE 02

The Strip, The Lights, The Bomb!

That morning during breakfast it occurred to me that if I was a bit out of my comfort zone on some of the roads (was that truly a road?) the previous day, it was really going to be interesting today on a fully-electric scooter - a small scooter - riding around one of the most amazing urban jungles on the Planet Earth –Las Vegas.

What could possibly go wrong?

The 02 designation means it is, more or less, comparable to a 200cc fuel engine. But this machine is aimed squarely at Urban Riders, and you do not want to stray

too far from home with the CE 02 – as it has a very short 45-50 mile range.

More than adequate for city commuting, and errands, but this is a small pocket knife riding along katanas and claymores.

That being said it was fun to ride, once I got it in my head that the left lever was a brake and not a clutch.

But we are a travel and history magazine too, right?

First, we rolled along Vegas’ newest big attraction – The Sphere. This gigantic Sphere measures 366 feet high and 516 feet wide. This 18,600-seat auditorium has the most amazing and immersive video and audio capabilities, which include a 16K resolution wraparound interior LED screen, speakers with beamforming and wave field synthesis technologies, and 4D physical effects. Images constantly play across its surface and I think it is simply one of the coolest things I have ever seen.

The arena cost $2.3 billion, making it by far the most expensive entertainment venue built in Las Vegas.

I usually laugh at all the Vegas-ality out here – but The Sphere is awesomely cool. Heck, U2 played 40 shows here. How’s that for an opening act?

Our first stop was one of two Mysterious Americas waiting to happen - The Atomic Museum. After seeing Oppenheimer – I had to go to this museum

The National Atomic Testing Museum is a national science, history, and educational institution that tells the story of America’s nuclear weapons testing program at the Nevada Test Site.

You know they used to blow nukes right outside Sin City, right? Just like Trashcan Man and The Stand – but sadly, real.

People would get up (sorry it’s Vegas - they were probably still up), and then line up to see the big show played out in the desert by the Defense Department.

Here at the Atomic Museum, you will learn far more than you ever needed, or maybe even wanted, to know about nuclear testing in the United States.

The Museum uses lessons from the past and present to understand better the extent and effect of nuclear testing on worldwide nuclear deterrence and geo-political history. Nowhere else can you see a large nuclear reactor that was used in the development of the nuclear rocket and the first air-to-air missile, personal atomic weapons that were developed to use in place of conventional weapons, such as the Backpack Nuke and the Crockett XM388 projectile, are placed throughout the very walkable and nicely laid out 8,000 square feet of museum exhibits.

Weapons, energy and medical uses of nuclear power are a many-faced Genie that is out of the bottle for good. However you feel about nuclear weapons, like Facebook and Phonies, they are here to stay, and the more you know the better.

We rolled down The Strip, 25 or so identical BMW Mini-Scooters, looking like some rag-tag faux biker gang from Berlin.

Kids in hot rods wanted to race us. Sharp-dressed players looked over and nodded approvingly from their Lambos and Bentleys.

We all drank it in. But, wait… was I really having fun on the CE 02?

Damn, I was. I was not expecting that. Still, I do not think it was 9,000 dollars of fun. But that’s just me, and John Candy – Mr. Vegas.

We found lunch, let Kevin and Jon make us all look cooler than we already were, and then rode over to our second iconic stop of this day – one that also brought forth this city’s storied history. Today it is the architecture that defines the City of Las Vegas. In its few miles you can be in New York, Paris, Italy, Egypt… just about anywhere in the world.

But before the buildings set the tone for the city it was the fantabulous neon lights that let you know where you were. For sure the bright lights and LEDs still create the flavor of the city – but once it was the lights alone that did this task.

You might wonder what happens to all these giant neon signs when the future and new innovation want to pull the plug on them? Well, they go to The Neon Museum, of course.

You knew this… you are so bright.

Located on Las Vegas Boulevard North, the Neon Museum includes the Neon Boneyard and the North Gallery. The impetus behind the collecting of

signs was the loss of the iconic sign from The Sands; after it was replaced with a new sign in the 1980s. There was no place to store the massive sign, and it was scrapped. After nearly 10 years of collecting signs, the Allied Arts Council of Southern Nevada and the city of Las Vegas worked together to create an institution to house and care for the saved signs. To mark its official opening in November 1996, the Neon Museum restored and installed the Hacienda Horse & Rider sign and now it is the giant Gibson Les Paul Guitar, the first Hard Rock Café sign ever made, that dominated the museum.

Strolling around the grounds, even in the bright daylight, really brought back images of Vegas - from back in the day when we’d all hang out with Frank, Sammy, Dino, and the boys.

I have ridden by this place at night – and that is when you want to visit –but that will be for another trip.

We did our entire day’s jaunt around town and still had 10 plus miles to spare in the batteries, making the tiny CE 02 very capable for short-run, around town, and a lot of fun.

Let’s get back to travel, adventure, and history.

Las Vegas, Cibolla, Sin City… you have to wonder how an obscure tiny town in the middle of nowhere could become one of the most famous, or infamous, adult playgrounds in the world.

But there it is, and what went on in Vegas is there to be found – if you only take a chance on it.

Both the BMW F 900 GS and the CE 02 are at BMW showrooms now. ,

2024 BMW F 800 GS / F 900 GS / F 900 GSA and the CE 02

As this season rolled into view BMW released three new versions of the mid-sized GS machine the F

GSA. Although we only got a chance to ride the F 900 GS – we want to make mention of all three. BMW F 800 GS

and the F

BMW considers the F 800 GS their entry-level machine, but I think it is just a more streetable mid-size bike. Although these bikers share the same 895cc twin-cylinder engine, the 800 GS engine runs with a more mellow power and output.

The F 800 GS is still up 10 ponies from last time around – with 87 hp and 67 lb-ft of torque, and it carried the same 4 gallons. The engine is the same, but de-tuned… we never get this. 105 is more than 87 ( I know math) – and more fun too. I know fun.

Of importance to those with shorter inseams is that the bike has a seat height of just under 30 inches. The machine rides on mags wheels – 19 inch up front, and 17 in the rear, and has the familiar 6.5 TFT Display, with all the usual BMW bells & whistles.

Just from sitting on the display, I can see this machine appealing to so many new riders, and those looking for a smaller and very capable day-to-day ride. The F 800 GS is available in three colors, Light White, Triple Black, and Racing Blue Metallic, and can be had for around $13,000.

BMW F 900 GS Adventure

The Adventure is more to my liking as it shares the same powerplant with the more off-road capable F 900 GS, and 18 ponies are 18 ponies. (We know F 800 GS, F 900 GS, and F 900 GS Adventure – very confusing and you need a scorecard)

The bike is taller and has more than 2 gallons of fuel capacity over the others. Like we said… a GS needs long and tireless legs. Both the Adventure and GS share the same tubeless cross-spoked wheels with a larger 21-inch wheel in the front and 17-inch in the back. The ADV also comes with a stock aluminum skid plate, heated grips, and fully adjustable suspension. Most of our overlords on this long day trip were on the F 900 Adventure – and these machines went everywhere the lighter, more gravel-BDR-oriented 900GS went. I could maybe do without the Cylonesque tank – but no one buys a roadworthy BMW GS for the looks. Figure a nicely packaged F 900 GS Adventure will come in around $17,500.

800 GS, F 900 GS,

900

BMW F 900 GS

This was the bike we rode out in Nevada, and a lot of the things we picked on were talked about in the story, but… the new offering from Berlin is aimed right at the heart and bank accounts of the gravely-faithful.

The premium package adds Gear Shift Assist, Ride Modes, Keyless, GPS Prep, and Cruise Control. – since this is a very focused machine you will also probably go for, or have to go for, the Off-Road Package - the GS trophy paint, Sport Suspension, hand protection, and the aluminum bash plate.

All the bikes we rode were shod with Metzler Karoo 4 tires, which work superbly on both gnarly gravel and pristine asphalt.

The machine comes in three colors – Black Storm Metallic, Sao Paulo yellow, and the very sharp GS trophy livery.

BMW does its homework, and being well aware of the competition from next door in Austria, they will be offering a nicely built F 900 GS, with their Off-Road Package, for $15,995

The BMW CE 02

I will say right off – I had more fun on this than I thought I would – but I like Groms, Monkey Bikes, and my son’s old Yamaha Zinger. But, is the BMW CE 02 an electric machine that will set sales records in the United States? Probably not. That is not to say there is not an urban market out there for it.

The CE 02 is powered by a 22 lbs, 48V (low-voltage) electrical motor. Low-voltage allows the externally or current-excited synchronous motor to be air-cooled and eliminates the heavier water-cooling plumbing.

The CE 02 has three power modes, and reverse (‘cause they could).

Someday I want to have a job at a manufacturer that chooses color names and power descriptions. I picture it involving a lot of bar-time, strong spirits, and cocktail napkin scribbling.

The CE 02 has The Flow and Surf. On the “Highline Package,” you can get The Flash – ah haaaaa.

Both The Flow and The Flash utilize Dynamic Recuperation allowing the brakes to help recharge the batteries.

BMW material states with The Flash “The brake levers become a secondary matter.” You have both brakes bicycle-style and know they work – really well, especially if you forget what you are on and go to pull in the imaginary clutch lever with a strong intention.

Just imagine.

Still, the CE 02 moved along The Strip nicely and handled far better than I thought the 14-inch wheels would allow.

The 02 has a built-in cell phone holder (of course it does) – and this allows your phone to be operated via buttons on the switch gear.

Once linked to your SmartPhone you can communicate and get updates and vehicle information such as charge level, charging duration, and end of charging as well as the current remaining range, last trips, etc. with BMW’s Highline Connectivity.

The scooter sends status data and vehicle information to the BMW backend via the integrated SIM card (WAVE module) while in operation and when parked. This includes information such as the charge level, charging duration, end of charging time as well as information on the last trips, and the rest.

In conjunction with the BMW Motorrad Connected app, this information can then be called up at any time and anywhere, even if not currently directly connected to the CE 02.

The basic version comes in Cosmic Black, and the Highline version is black as well, but with some additional graphics, Bluetooth Interface, Smartphone Tray, Ride Modes Pro including Flash Mode, Seat Pro, Quick Charger (1200w), heated grips, and the BMW Motorrad Connected services.

Our CE 02 as tested will sell for $9,069. For some Urban Princes, this is the cost of admission – but for many, this might be a deal breaker. Time will tell – but, I know our group was having fun! ,

To Hancock, NY

Finally - my Jim Bronson moment.

We were getting fuel outside of Port Jervis, New York, and the fellow in the Toyota across the island from me was looking at the bikes fueling up and asked…

“Going on a trip?”

“Well, yes we are,” I replied.

‘Where you going,” he asked.

“Well, where ever the road takes us…”

Okay, I didn’t say that at all. I had my chance and I flubbed it.

Instead of the proper Jim Bronson response, I gave him a quick rundown of the upcoming weekend. His eyes got wide - TMI, for sure.

To which he replied, “Man, I wish I were you..”

Far sharper at this point I stated back, “Hang in there, man. Hang in there.”

Ahh – redemption. Sorta.

What was happening was the beginning of our annual Spring Break.

The basic plan was to have a general gathering in Hancock, NY, up atop the headwaters of the Delaware River at the historic Hancock Hotel.

But, as always riders would be heading in from all directions.

For us, the road would take a small contingent of riders from breakfast at the Elias Cole, superb in every way, up along the river and then north through the deep forests of Sullivan County and then a few hours at the BethelWoods Center for the Arts museum, which celebrates the Woodstock Festival that was held at this very spot – now one of the leading concert venues in the northeast.

If you have never been to this museum then you have something to look forward to.

Nearly half a million people came to see this event –which ended up defining a turbulent time in our nation. The films, memorabilia, and all that went into and happened during the festival are celebrated here.

For us, it was just so much cool music and the memory of one very dear friend. You are missed, Sam! By mid-afternoon we were back on the road, following along on a most excellent route created especially for the Spring Break by our

friend Lisa Veliath, and had us running along a nice mix of secondary and true hidden backroads.

We filtered through Roscoe and then spun north and into a slightly more remote part of Delaware County, New York on Barkaboom Road.

The mist that had pestered us off and on all day came back, or rather we rode into it, but it was still an opportunity to see one of the more picturesque Cascades in the region.

Tompkins Falls is roughly 20 feet tall and features three drops. Between the drops, Barkaboom Stream makes a nearly 90-degree turn as it heads towards Pepacton Reservoir.

It is easily seen heading in the other direction, but I kinda knew where it was, and pulling off to the side of the road our little posse got to take in the falls that were truly rushing after the last few days of rain.

A few miles down the road we picked up Route 30, around the reservoir, taking in the Historic Signs that marked where towns were before New York City got too thirsty, and through the towns of Downsville and Shinhopple.

By late afternoon we were rolling into the Hancock Hotel’s parking lot, that was quickly filling up with Spring Breakers.

It was a great evening, with friends catching up with friends, with riders from Canada, New Hampshire, and Florida who had made the trek to join in.

We had old friends and, happily, some new faces as well – as all are welcome at these events and, as always, all you have to do is come and have fun. Never a charge – just pay your way.

Full porch, full bar – and even a come-from-behind Ranger win that night.

To Williamsport, PA

The skies this day were clearing and cool, and most followed along a route created by our buddy Eric – a neat 140 miles - but well thought out and full of some great twisty pavement.

From Hancock, we immediately crossed the Delaware River into the Keystone State and then began a series of roads that would wind up and back, and ever west.

At one point we crossed under the Tunkhannock Creek Viaduct, in Nicholson, Pennsylvania. Among the greatest bridges in the world is the famous Tunkhannock Viaduct, which has been called the 9th Wonder of the World. It truly is impressive to see a bridge that is so large and tall that it soars above the hills of Pennsylvania. Concrete had not been in use for bridge building all that long (mainly starting around 1900) when this bridge was built in 1915. This did not stop builders from constructing this bridge that would become the largest concrete bridge in the world. As late as 1990, this bridge appears to have retained this record as largest concrete bridge in the world. Further testimony to the significance of this bridge is the fact it has been registered as a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark, one of the most elite historic designations a bridge can receive. It is hard to miss.

Along the morning’s ride, we’d come upon other riders and some of them would even run into other riders as well. (Okay, too soon, Mike?)

When we first saw Eric’s route, we discovered he would be running right across from World’s End State Park and along the Loyalsock Creek. Here is one restaurant that has been a long time favorite of this magazine’s – Big Mike’s – the Forksville General Store – a bit of Philadelphia in the mountains – and home of some crazy serious food!

But strange things happen while on the road, and many times that is simply running into riding friends that you have known for years, but never spend nearly enough time with. So, it was all smiles when we came across the COG Gang at the General Store.

For those who do not know, COG stands for the Concours Owners Group, and these are a bunch of very serious riders – and it made a really fine day on through the Endless Mountains even more memorable.

Shira, our friend Katy, and I spun back into World’s End Park – simply because we love the road (Route 154), and then spent a bit of time along the lake in Eagle’s Mere before backroading it to Williamsport and the Genetti Hotel – another place we seem to return to again and again.

Williamsport is a happening college town – a small city really - with dozens of bars and restaurants. Plenty to offer riders when the bikes are tucked in and parked for the night.

We found oysters, Indian soups, American fare, and some ridiculously large and equally delicious ice cream.

Sated and tired, we called it a night while the bar and lobby downstairs were commandeered.

Free Day in Williamsport

Overnight some heavy rains came in, giving the mountains another round of soaking, and although gone for the most part this Saturday – the sun never really showed up this day till dusk.

Still, there was plenty to do, and we had some routes put up that a few ventured out for, while others gave it a few hours to dry out before donning their

gear and checking out what was to be found in this part of Central Pennsylvania. Joe Lucky put together a hefty 200 mile loop into which we added a lunch stop at another one of our favorite restaurants in the area – Fire and Ice Smokehouse and Creamery. How can you go wrong with both barbecue AND homemade ice cream. Those who took that in had a great day’s ride with some kickin’ food.

Some took in a few of the local museums, while others got a chance to visit a private collection of planes, cars, and bikes curated by Carl Williamson. When we arrived the previous day at the Genetti, we learned that this year’s Baja SAE Competition was being held here this same weekend; and this was something we wanted to see for ourselves.

The Baja SAE is a college-level competition held by the Society of Automotive Engineers

International. Teams of students from universities all over the world design and build small ATVs. The goal in Baja SAE is to design, build, and race off-road vehicles that can withstand the harshest elements of rough terrain. The vehicles used in Baja SAE racing are often similar in appearance to dune buggies. The same engine is used by all teams which creates a more challenging engineering design test.

After breakfast Shira and I rode over. There was shuttle parking about a half mile away, in a paved, flat parking lot. But we talked our way into allowing us to ride up to the competition, which was being held atop a series of large hills, right above the Susquehanna River.

We were told to take it easy heading up, but once up at the top and parked, my thoughts were really about riding back down.

The competition was divided into several tasks… braking, acceleration, a hill climb, and very tough handling maneuverability course. Sunday was the Endurance race – 4 hours of pounding dirt racing.

Think Detroit Auto Proving grounds, but made with dirt, clay, muck, mud, and rain – just a bit of rain, and you will get what these young drivers and their crews would have to deal with.

We were met by our friends Don and Lisa, who took the ride over; and the four of us were more than a tad impressed by these kids. It makes us feel a bit better about our future when we see how well these college students work together and the talent they all show. We talked for a bit with one fellow from Stevens Tech in Hoboken. They had a most impressive truck; loaded with tools, welding machines, a hydraulic press, and a CNC Laser cutting machine, all quickly built into a rented Enterprise panel truck.

Do you think one of the greatest tech schools from one of the richest states in the nation could afford a truck and some graphics…just saying, Stevens. – your kids deserve better! We spent a good deal of the early day there, and then gingerly rode back down the wet clay hill and headed back towards the city – and the Little League Museum.

Little League Baseball got its start in this town, back in 1939 when an oil company clerk named Carl Stotz felt that kids needed a league of

their own. Within a few years, word spread about Carl Stotz’s program, and Little League was being played in all 48 states. The first Little Leagues outside the 48 states were in Panama, Canada, and Hawaii, in 1950; and Little League Baseball is still the most celebrated commodity the region has, and is something that so many of us played in and that has now spread around the globe. We are huge lovers of the game and this place, that holds the Little League World Series each year, is a superb museum dedicated to all the kids that ever played, and the Lamade Stadium right next door is so beautiful in person.

The stadium, which is about 2/3 the size of a professional ballpark, has been host to some of the most exciting games in baseball history – and more history and more famous players to walk on this field every year. That evening was the Preakness, second in the race for the Triple Crown. Shira is a Pony Gal and this day

Bookmaker too it seemed, as her pot for the winner would at least pay for somebody’s fuel this weekend. Seize the Grey won from the opening of the gate in Maryland, and surprisingly Shira won the pot (okay, she did share it with her buddy Robyn, the barmaid, and Joe Lucky who laid down his Lincoln with seconds to spare –quintupling his moola in just 1 and 3/16th of a mile.)

Williamsburg is a big town, and our crew spread out over several restaurants. We found wings and a rockin’ band of young guys called The Sylvan Dell Stragglers that were just killin’ the music! It was also Prom Night, and the graduates were killin’ it too.

Rick Sanchez would have been proud.

Sunday would see this year’s version of the Spring Break fade in the mirrors, and after breakfast folks said their goodbyes, lots of hugs, and see ya next times were had and then it was back on the road.

The first few days had some great ride suggestions, and all appreciated the yeoman work from Lisa, Eric and Joe.

Today most found their way home, but we had a small group that was heading back to northwest New Jersey, and we followed a route that was sent to us from an anonymous creator who we will just call “The Whisperer,” ‘cause this route was 200 + miles of twistalicious fun running through the Endless Mountains, up along ridges and down into valleys and through forests, and finishing up with that wonderfully serpent-like road along the Lackawaxen River before crossing the Historic Roebling’s Viaduct, for a stop at the River’s Edge for a late lunch. From here we broke up the band and Shira and I rode over High Point, past the Elias Cole, where we started this shindig, and then back towards home on 519.

Along this road we came upon an old Red VW Microbus, putting slowly ahead of us… It was in great shape, and the very “Hippie” looking couple driving it was simply enjoying life; taking it easy and slow.

They had a sticker in both English and Deutsch stating just that – Slow Moving Vehicle.

They slowed even more and pulled to the right to let us by, and as I glanced at them when I went past, the driver smiled and gave me the peace sign. After all the fun this weekend… Well… Hey, man, I could dig that! Ride Far. Ride Smart. Ride the Backroads. ,

The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully

What’s the use in setting sober… When you gonna get drunk again

A column dedicated to your riding survival

Busby Meyers

That song was written at the beginning of World War II and made a #1 hit by Louis Jordan and the Tympany Five. I first heard it when Joe Jackson covered it and it’s been spinning on my iPhone ever since.

According to Oldtime music.com… “This soul-stirring masterpiece delves into the human inclination to indulge in self-destructive behaviors, highlighting the persistent struggle against our own vices. At its core, “What’s the Use of Getting Sober (When You’re Gonna Get Drunk Again)” questions the futility of trying to break free from destructive habits when the cycle is bound to repeat itself. Joe Jackson’s emotive lyrics mirror the internal conflict experienced by individuals who grapple with addiction or any form of harmful behavior.”

Oh, I bet I have a bunch of you kids’ attention right now, don’t I?

But this is not about what you think – or for some hope – nope, I am talking about the frustration that we as riders sometimes come across – especially after a few good days on the road.

That stem to stern muck, grime and road dust; like Peanuts’ Pigpen had just taken your bike for a ride. But, what’s the use in getting clean, when you know somewhere down the road you will get dirty again?

Before the Spring Break I gave both our bikesthe GS, and Shira’s V-Strom - a good Spring cleaning, and polishing. A clean bike looks good, but then again, so does a dirty ADV ride as well.

That being said…

These cleanings are not just to get the dirt and grime off and remove mouse nests, but allows us to really take a look at the bikes close up.

ATVs. It was held atop a mountain in Central Pennsylvania, on a very wet weekend, and Don and his companion Lisa, followed the preferred procedure and parked their bikes and hopped on the shuttle up to the top. I, on the other hand, “talked” my way into them letting me and Shira ride two-up on my GS.

Maybe not my best idea that weekend, as it was a soggy, muddy, slippery clay mess at the competition, and when I came off the mountain my bike was righteously messy, and so were we.

Later that day I found Don giving a sponge bath to both their machines. I thought he was gonna give me the bucket, but the dirt looked great on my GS – like I actually did something better than riding up and down a mountain to watch other kids play in the dirt.

Not enough riders do this and, if they did, bad things might be caught ahead of time; before they become very bad things.

How many times have you washed your bike and then found that you had broken or torn something off while drunk… I mean riding? For instance, I once was washing a bike to discover a missing axle nut.

If I knew when this disappeared it might not be missing. There was another time I watched as a bar end came off my wife’s machine and went bouncing into the weeds and to that place where lost socks go.

I got into a conversation about this very thing with a fellow rider named Don Gomo. Some of you know Don’s name from the many safety articles he has written, as well as his work with various two-wheel education platforms and legislative work.

We both commented how many riders rarely deep clean their machines, and when they do, they are just thinking make dirty shiny, and not looking for problems or potential problems, and how cleaning your bike lets you see things up close.

Earlier that same day we had both taken in the SAE Baja Competition, a contest where dozens of college teams create and then race hand-built

But the bike was not just dirty – it was cruddy –that combination of crud and mud that was jammed into the foot pegs and had turned the gold-tone BMW spoked wheels into some shade of damp puke yellow.

Even Shira began to comment that my bike was soooo dirty, and she usually couldn’t care less. Perhaps her impetus was slipping off the clay-caked passenger pegs when we were heading back down the mountain.

Okay, I got it. It was a mess.

Can we just let the bike revel in the dirtiness? It looked like it finished a section of the BDR, or the GS Challenge – and it liked its rakish grime.

It stayed that way for the rest of the Backroads Rally, and after we got back - bucket, bike wash, brushes all came out; but I could not stop the Joe Jackson ‘earworm’ in my head…well, a version of it anyhew.

What’s the use in getting shiny… if you’re gonna get dirty again?

Yeh, well… Ice Cream on me! ,