June 2012

ine gaz Ma our le T cyc tor Mo

JUNE

2012 Volume 18 No. 6

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

Tajikistan An Adventure-Tourer’s Paradise

2012 Aprilia Dorsoduro 1200 • Remembering the Blue Ridge Parkway Multi-lingual Quebec • Montana Meanderings • Monthly Columns and Product Reviews

W H A T ’ S

I N S I D E FEAT URES

MON THLY COLUMN S FREE WHEELIN’.................................................................................4

30,000 MILES ON THE BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY...................34

WHATCHATHINKIN’..........................................................................6

MY ENGLISH-TO-FRENCH DICTIONARY RIDES A BMW.....38

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE .................................................7

TAJIKISTAN, AN ADVENTURE -RIDER’S PARADISE.............43

ON THE MARK ..................................................................................8

MONTANA MEANDERINGS AND MORE.................................59

THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD ...................................................10 BACKLASH........................................................................................11 INDUSTRY INFOBITES...................................................................14

M OTORCYCL E REVIEWS 2012 APRILIA DORSODURO 1200 ............................................28

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN.........................................18 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA...............................................................20

PRODUCT REVIEW S

WE’RE OUTTA HERE .....................................................................22

SCHUBERTH HELMETS.................................................................31

BIG CITY GETAWAY........................................................................24

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS................................................................55

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE...................................................48

MOTORCYCLE JOURNEYS THROUGH NORTH AMERICA ..57

UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ..............................................53

SHIFTING GEARS AT 50 ..............................................................58

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil ~ Publishers Contributors: Ken Aiken, Jeff Bahr, Neale Bayly, Mark Byers, Jerry Finley, Bill Heald, Robert Laford, Lynda Lahman, Michael Nemlich, Terry Peters, Elias Vrohidis, Dr. Seymour O’Life

BACKROADS • POB 317, Branchville NJ 07826 Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

Phone 973.948.4176 • Fax 973.948.0823 • email editor@backroadsusa.com • web www.backroadsusa.com

For Advertising Sales Information: 973-948-4176 BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2012. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

Page 4

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN Guys Just Wanna Have Fun too!

There is no question that women are now a large part of the motorcycle scene in the United States, and we here at Backroads have been big time supporters of this trend from our first issue 18 years back and, remember that Backroads is owned and operated by a woman.

According to the Motorcycle Industry Council’s website: “Female ownership of motorcycles crossed the 10-percent mark, increasing from 9.6 percent in 2003 up to 12.3 percent in 2008. Younger generations have even more female riders. Some 15 percent of Gen X motorcycle owners are women, and for Gen Y, it’s 14 percent. Among Gen Xers, women more than doubled their presence since 1998. Maybe most impressive, women accounted for 23 percent, or 5.7 million, of the 25 million Americans who rode a motorcycle last year.”

Those are some impressive numbers and they are still growing.

Around the nation there are many events and classes that cater to women-only, and most are a good thing.

I have been told a number of times by many lady riders that, especially at track days, some women feel far more comfortable riding with just other girls on the track and they sometimes feel that men come to the track with too much testosterone and competitiveness.

At women’s seminars at various rallies I have attended the discussions and complaints are almost always the same. It almost gets tiring.

They don’t make bikes for women. They don’t make gear for women. They don’t have events for women.

For the most part these are non-issues. There are plenty of bikes aimed at smaller stature riders (not just women) and the female gear available today is cutting edge.

As far as bikes go, these gals just have to open their eyes and expand their paradigm of what is out there and ready to ride now.

Why so many women feel they need to have and ride these monstrous cruisers is beyond me.

Then there are some aspects of the whole “women” thing that I’ll never get, especially some events that exclude men entirely.

I remember, some years ago, being told that Shira was welcome to a women-only event, but I - being a guy – was not.

That example was the extreme but this year our own American Motorcyclists Association will be holding the International Women & Motorcycling Conference, which will take place July 26-29 in Carson City, Nevada. According to the AMA website the conference will combine inspirational speakers, great roads, demo rides, product showcases and unmatched camaraderie for the best AMA International Women & Motorcycling Conferences ever.

Yes, men are welcome, but it is being pushed as a women’s event.

They have had this event at various venues over the last few years and although I don’t begrudge the ladies having such an event, I do take issue with the AMA for not having a large national event for all of their members. Guys want to have fun too. They surely could incorporate a women’s event into such a national AMA gathering.

Then there is the price ranging from $125 for AMA members who pre-register to $275 for late or on-site non-members. That’s a pretty hefty sum. So what does this include, you ask? Well, a gift bag, T-shirt, demo ride priority sign-up, Friday night cookout, Saturday night celebration banquet and the other activities being held like seminars, Moto-Action center and marketplace.

When checking what was included in this sum on the AMA website, directly opposite the registration site was an ad for Men’s Journal ‘Best Motorcycle Trips Across America’, with a couple riding two-up. Is that their idea of compensation?

My point is this… why does the AMA, who has made such great strides in turning around the bad perception that so many members had on the association in the past, insist of excluding the majority of their membership?

In so many ways the AMA has done a serious 180 degrees, yet still there is always a big deal made of racers, politicians and other celebrities. We like the idea of the AMA being about the real and average American rider. Thankfully a wonderful choice was made when they named motorcycle activist Nancy Sabater as the Motorcyclist of the Year.

So Mr. Dingman, how about doing an event for all of your members, not just the gals?

Surely we include the Women & Motorcycling Conference in this too – but let’s entice all of our members to saddle up to ride someplace excellent where they can enjoy the miles, the smiles and the camaraderie that should be part of being a member of the American Motorcyclists Association?

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 6

W H ATC H AT H I N K I N ’ SHIRA KAMIL Welcome to tHe Fold What a great time of year! The weather, when dry, has been just perfect for riding. The trees have sprouted their new coats and the colors of the season are upon us. Sitting on the deck at Backroads Central, I am privy to the sights and sounds of the passing bikes and enjoy nearly every one that ride by.

This past weekend, while putting together the issue that you hold in your hands, we were visited by an old and dear friend. Pete and Brian have been riding together for many, many years, going back to Brian’s Queens days.

They used to race on Connecting Highway, head to Daytona Bike week to support their friend Nick Richichi who went on to be AMA Rookie of the year, and generally cause mayhem wherever they road. Since I’ve been part of that friendship, I’ve gotten to know Pete, his wife Barbara and their wonderful children, hearing many of their stories and laughing every time.

Their youngest, and only son, Pete Jr. just turned 21 in March and decided that it was time for him to take the plunge and get his first motorcycle. There was plenty of discussion between Pete and Barbara, I’m sure, but ultimately he was given the go ahead. Naturally, Pete counseled him in the proper pro-

cedure to safe riding – taking the MSF course, protective gear, choosing the right first bike, etc. Since Pete has been involved in his share of bike mishaps, simple to severe, he knows of what he speaks.

Here’s where we, actually Brian, came into the picture. Pete figured that since Brian was ‘in the industry’ he might have an insight to some used bikes that would fit the bill. Rather than buy from any old Tom, Dick or Harry, Brian sent him to a very specific Tom – at Motorcycle Madness in Lafayette, NJ. Tom usually has a very good selection of pre-owned bikes in pretty decent shape and, on his last visit there, Brian had seen two in particular that might be options.

The Two Petes met Brian and took a look-see at the potential new rides for the new rider. One was a Yamaha Seca, the other a 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 650R in a very bright red. By my words here, you can pretty much guess which caught the eye. I, for one, have always been a fan of Kawasaki’s 650R, from the very first time I threw a leg over the seat. It is ergonomically satisfying, light enough to flick about in the twisties and very sound mechanically. All that said, I believe this is a great starter bike that will take him past his first tentative rides and on to some great adventures on his own and with his dad.

When the crew returned to the house, I congratulated Pete on his purchase and wished him the best of luck and safe travels. It made me think back to the time I decided to ride, some 18 years ago, and how excited I was. In my mind, I was just going to get my license so that, if anything should happen while I was on the back of the bike, I could, technically, ride the bike if necessary. After taking the MSF course, I came home with the Want Ad Press in hand and demanded that we find me a bike immediately. Since that first Honda CM400, there have a number of bikes in my life and more adventures than I can count. I jokingly say that I’m glad I have a magazine documenting my life so that I can look back at all the fun I’ve had.

Pete, I hope that we get a chance to ride together. I know that you are going to have so much fun and I hope that you enjoy your riding time as much as I have and continue to do. I have made some solid friendships because of my riding, have visited more places than I thought I would ever see, and have plenty of laugh lines carry me into my wrinkle years.

Be safe, have fun and we’ll see you on the road.

Welcome to the fold.

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 7

P O S TC A R D S FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD a very revealinG reveal There are two very challenging aspects of building a new production motorcycle. OK, there’s probably hundreds of challenging aspects but I’d like to focus on a pair: figuring out what you think the market wants, and then how to design and build a machine that satisfies these desires. I’m putting you in charge as CEO of your motorcycle company, with good resources but faced with the challenges of difficult economic environment and a market for your product that doesn’t really fit the term “boom times.” You are making a very specialized item, and you have to consider both pleasing experienced riders while making a product that novices can feel comfortable on. So, what do you, as a latter-day Mr. Honda or two-wheeled Steve Jobs, decide to build?

Truth be told I’m really focusing on the first part of my pair of challenging aspects, but I mentioned the second because the answer to supplying what you think the market wants can be dramatically influenced by the real-world limitations of what is required to actually build the thing. I think something has changed in recent years, in that more and more people are discovering that they not only enjoy riding (and it can be wonderfully practical in so many ways), they like taking their bikes and themselves further that just a Sunday putt. I’m talking about touring of course, but not really about the big, long haul crowd. Instead, I’m referring to the increasing presence of more and more day and weekend trippers. This is in contrast to some past surges in motorcycle popularity that were driven largely by a more appearance-driven attraction that sold an amazing number of cruisers (great for a ride to the

local watering hole, not so great for longer distances). So as you are deciding what new motorcycle for your company to build, shouldn’t you take this into account?

While many bikes that have been successful in the past have had attributes like style and high-performance, I think versatility and the ability to be a comfortable all-day traveling companion are becoming important enough to alter the population dynamics of the showroom. Maybe I’m also trying to say that during these tough economic times we may have been observing a shift in the proportion of “casual” riders to “serious” motorcyclists; the latter being an individual who likes to take the bike on regular adventures and spend far more time riding than polishing. They are dedicated riders, so they are less likely to limit their riding when the budget gets tight.

These folks tend to value functionality, and many of the manufacturers understand this. Look at the popularity of adventure bikes, and how more and more machines with very impressive performance résumés have fairly upright ergonomics that make them downright plush compared with chopperesque power cruisers and hard-core sport bikes. If a motorcycle is fun, nay, exhilarating to ride, why not makes sure the road doesn’t have to be a short one?

Many cruisers have had ergonomics that are bearable around town, but can get unpleasant on longer rides and hence the ready availability of quick-release windshields. But why not start with more reasonable ergos to begin with?

What dovetails nicely with this is that in my experience a bike with more upright riding stance is also very user-friendly for those learning to ride, which is a huge criteria for manufacturers trying to lure more customers into the fold. Ditto for lighter weight, made simpler from a cost/production standpoint by the fact that the latest smaller-displacement engines are plenty powerful enough for most applications and are more compact, have less mass, are less expensive to build and fuel efficient to boot.

Your CEO design decision looks pretty clear, to me anyway. A motorcycle (Continued on Page 9)

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 8

ON THE MARK MARK BYERS tHe Price Winston is enjoying himself, and why not?

Beneath him, the 2022 Victory sings a multicylinder melody to accompany the dance he’s doing on the suburban backroad, mercilessly free of traffic at this time of day. The traction control, refined by years of testing, works seamlessly by comparison to the ones they had when he started. Antilock, anti-dive brakes linked to the electronic suspension through the CRC (central riding computer) make short work of any pavement irregularities and allow him to brake with abandon going into turns. As if he needs to brake: the GPS-based navigation system has such a detailed database of terrain that warnings of blind crests and sharp turns are annunciated in his helmet, projected on his windscreen, and result in autoapplication of the brakes if he forgets. He’s invincible.

Winston turns the bike into his development, but even the distressingly uniform townhomes can’t dampen his spirits. After all, he’s an individualist and his motorcycle is his badge as such. It’s a sunny evening, work is over, and he’s looking forward to some downtime before taking off on the bike again to visit his girlfriend, Julia. She loves riding, single or two-up, and Winston loves the way she clings to him from the pillion seat as he deftly pilots the bike through the streets of the ‘burbs. Maybe they’ll go for coffee, he thinks. As he swings into his driveway, the garage door opens automatically, triggered by a Blue-

tooth signal from the bike’s GPS. One time the door malfunctioned, but the bike’s collision-warning sensor detected the impending mishap and auto-applied the brakes. It had been done so smoothly that it barely made Winston’s head bob.

He leaps off the bike and runs upstairs, not needing to shut it off since the rider-proximity detector knows he is no longer there. A coded chip in a stylish ring he wears lets the bike know he is Winston, its owner, and that it should run for no one else. Even though it’s a mandated anti-theft feature, Victory’s marketing geniuses have turned the chips into stylish jewelry with obvious, but tasteful logos. The chip for Julia’s bike is in an earring. Before it powers down completely, however, the bike connects to Winston’s wireless network to download software updates for the CRC. Because he has the required “pay by the mile” insurance policy, it also downloads data to Amsoc Insurance.

Winston has just enough time to shower before he has to get back on the bike to go meet Julia, but like many of his generation, he is no stranger to multitasking. He sheds his clothes and steps into the shower, where what appears to be just another large tile in the wall comes to life, revealing a computer screen.

Quickly, a summary of his life, schedule, correspondence, and financial obligations appears. It is the latter that catches his eye while he shaves. Normally, he doesn’t give bills much thought, since the amounts for utilities rarely change, but tonight there are strange new items listed as debits.

“Open 6” he says softly and the sixth item is displayed.

“Debit, $100, violation: failure to stop, Eurasia and 6th, 1800 hours, 14 April ‘22.” “Say what!” he exclaims. “Calendar” he says, and immediately it appears. The 14th was Saturday and he remembers (Continued on Page 9)

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012 Postcards From tHe HedGe

Page 9 (Continued from Page 7)

that can appeal to so many potential customers is actually pretty simple because while it needs to do so many things well, many of these design criteria actually compliment each other. Versatility (obviously) appeals to a wide audience, including the happy (and not so few) who like to load up a few essentials and head for the hills for a day or three. I’ll even go out on a limb here and say I think we’re entering a true golden age for motorcycles in that style and image are being demoted as the primary buying considerations for many customers; subordinated by how well a particular motorcycle works as a traveling companion.

As an example, I give you one all-new bike just unveiled for the U.S. market that Shira told you about: Honda’s NC700X Adventure Bike.

When they announced the bike the night before the NYIMS, more than a few in attendance were expecting that another cruiser was lurking beneath the canvas. Nothing wrong with that, but they were pleasantly surprised when something else was revealed. As for Honda, a source in the company told me that this machine is “very important to us, and our future direction.” There are a host of hi-tech new features on

the bike of course, for this is Honda after all, but take a look at its form and how it is devoted largely to versatility. Like the BMW F650 that debuted years ago, there’s even a storage compartment where the fuel tank normally is which can swallow all kinds of stuff and therefore expand its day-to-day and travel practicality.

“What do you see when you look at the 2012 Honda NC700X?” asks Honda. “An adventure-style bike? An urban assault commuter? A country road explorer? A two-up getaway machine? Or perhaps all of the above?” I see the decision of CEO types (like you, since you have been charged earlier in this diatribe with this position) to embrace where the market seems to be going, and what a lot of the most devoted riders have been saying for quite some time: it’s not exclusively about chrome and occasional riding any more. There’s so much more around the next corner, so let’s just keep on riding, yeah? And ponder this: as goes the new bike market, so goes the mindset of the aftermarket accessory makers as to what their customers are looking for. It’s the circle of life, or at least the circle of commerce and we get to enjoy the fruits of their labors.

on tHe mark (Continued from Page 8) going for a ride with Julia, this time with she on her own bike. It had been a beautiful day and the ride was spirited, but Winston doesn’t remember any serious irresponsibility on his part. Switching back to his bills, he notices an attachment to file 6. “Open” he says, and after a brief hesitation, a video, taken from a camera at the intersection, shows a bike and rider coming to a gently-rolling, “California stop,” then continuing.

“Close” says Winston, and the video and bill go away, but listed below number 6 is a string of others that look suspiciously like it. His joy goes down the shower drain with the soap as file after file opens to re-

Long Island Yamaha veal debits as a result of minor infractions from his weekend foray with Julia. One file shows a video of an unsignalled lane change taken from an unmanned aerial vehicle over the beltway. Slowly, Winston sees his bank account dwindle as fines are debited. Fine print reveals a link to an appeals process, but Winston has heard of people who tried and failed miserably in the face of the videos and photographs that accompany each violation.

A soft tone sounds and a new message appears on the screen, this time from Amsoc insurance. He says a single word: “Open.” It says a single word: “Cancelled.”

Three floors below, by state law, the company’s computer is loading a single line of code into the CRC on his bike. Winston isn’t going anywhere tonight.

67 North Broadway • Route 107 • Hicksville, NY

www.LIYamaha.com • 516-935-6969 Come experience our full line of Yamaha products, sales and service.

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 10

TH OUGHTS FROM THE ROAD

Lynda Lahman sounds oF silence

My husband Terry and I were selected to ride two-up in the 2007 Iron Butt Rally, an eleven day endurance event that would push us to limits we had yet to experience. As part of our preparation, we completed what is known as a 48-10 ride, covering all of the lower 48 states within 10 days, obtaining an electronically generated receipt in each state to prove we had visited. Our ride started in Kennewick, Washington, and our planned route took us to Oregon, east to Utah, south through Nevada and a corner of California. It then turned east, zigzagging through the southern part of the country, snaking up the east coast, and then once again west through the northern states, finishing in eastern Montana.

When we first started riding long distances, I wanted music playing almost constantly. Singing along to the songs with my intercom in mute mode, I’d even dance to some of my favorites, entertaining myself and keeping the blood flowing as I sat mile upon mile. Terry often suggested waiting before turning the iPod on, especially early in the morning, and at first I wasn’t sure what to do. The scenery was often breathtaking, but it could also be monotonous and sometimes even ugly. It felt like I was simply counting the minutes until he agreed to add sound and deliver me from my boredom.

But as the miles added up, I noticed I had found a relationship with myself I hadn’t previously known. The quiet inside my head became my companion, and my thoughts had the time and space to float freely. A scene would trigger a series of memories, and I’d find myself lost in images of childhood, vacations, or friends. New places inspired me to imagine the lives of the people who lived there, what they did, how their days unfolded.

I thought back on the events of our day, or forward to what we might be doing next. I replayed things we had done well and remembered them for the next time, and figured out solutions to problems we encountered in case we found ourselves in a similar predicament again.

There were times when I had no idea where my mind wandered, and simply took in the world around me. Sitting on the back of the bike, with no walls around me, I was part of the landscape. I could look anywhere and find something to engage me. The bike sits me much higher up than a car, so I could glance down into the automobiles as we passed, wondering what stories each person had to tell or where they were going. Sometimes I saw amazing stupidity, like a driver reading a book, steering with his knees while speeding down an interstate, and I’d urge Terry to get as much distance between us as possible. My favorite moments were the sunrises and sunsets, watching the slowly changing colors, and the textures of the clouds as they moved across the sky. I had the time to relax and enjoy it all. Soon I was the one asking for silence, and sometimes the silence would last for hours.

I had visited many places in America over the years, and flown over the country numerous times. Nothing prepared me for seeing it in its totality in such a short time. Rather than seeing the parts, I experienced the whole, and came away with images of the unique character of the different regions. I was surprised that seeing the country in such a short time could have made such a lasting impression on me, enticing me to return again and again for more than a passing glance.

Lynda Lahman is the author of Two-Up: Navigating a Relationship 1,000 Miles at a Time www.twoupbook.com

NUMBERS DON’T LIE!

Our techs have over 100

years of experience combined.

Don’t trust your machine to any “Fresh-Out-Of-MMI” crew.

Take your motorcycle to a shop that has the knowledge and experience you deserve.

228 E. Backwell Street • Dover, NJ • www.4BLC.com

• 973-989-4252

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 11

BACKLASH Dear Brian, When I first read of your debilitating crash and painful consequences on the Colombian trip, I felt dismay. Your Free Wheelin’s “Parked Motorcycle Syndrome” brought real frustration for you, too.

Then I remembered a friend who, forty years ago, rode his motorcycle to work each day. When he collided with the back of a van that stopped short, he sustained injuries as serious as yours. The difference is, when he left the hospital, he never rode again. His daughter tore up her motorcycle license and cancelled her purchase of a bike as well.

What is so inspiring about you and Shira, especially in the May issue of Backroads, is your wonderful spirit. After her smack down last year by the blind motorist who didn’t “see” her, Shira went right back to riding with no whining. After your terrible mishap in Salento, you didn’t blame the kid on the other bike. You analyzed the accident, acknowledged your own contribution to it, toughed out the pain and incapacity, and longed to ride again.

Although you guys picked the scariest country in South America with some horrendous roads and hazards, you do as you always do: make new friends, discover all kinds of cool stuff, live new adventures, and have a ball.

The dictionary defines indomitable as “that cannot be discouraged, beaten or conquered: from the Latin indomitus, untamed”.

Yeah. That’s you and Shira, all right.

Sincerely, Glen Baldwin Glen, Thank you so much for such kind words. We are both humbled by them and will do our best to live up to the bar riders like you have set for us all.

Hi Brian and Shira, I have been reading the latest issue of Backroads with great interest, in particular the account of your trip to Colombia, which sounded like an incredible adventure. With regard to Brian's accident, all I can say is, "Been there, done that." No matter how accomplished, experienced and capable we

Letters to the Editor may be as riders, the evil gods of traction and gravity can turn on us in a split second. Most of the time, with good protective gear, we can get up, dust ourselves off, replace a clutch lever or turn signal, and carry on as if nothing had happened. Unfortunately, depending on how the bike tips and we land, the consequences may be more serious. Obviously, that was the case here.

As you noted, at least it happened in February. It would have been even more of a bummer had it occurred during the height of riding season! So my friend, heal well, and I will see you in Virginia, whether you are on two wheels or four by that time.

Kindest regards, Bruce Brian/Shira, A trolley stop in a neighborhood of Pittsburgh, known as Beechview, sported this sign. My daughter and I were waiting for a cool Mexican lunch stop to open.

Hope to see you in Luray.

Chad Hanna Hi Brian, I don’t get to ride in NJ very often, and when I read your article titled Meandering with Marc, I thought I would take a look at my NJ map and see just where you took him, and ride the route in the near future.

Since my AAA map is of NJ & PA, it doesn’t go into too much detail when it come to some of the smaller roads and landmarks. Even using Google

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 12 Maps, I couldn’t find everything you talked about. I could find CR 519 and 521 towards Swartswood Lake, but I can’t find the tree-lined road you wanted to take, and where is Walpack Valley?

I also could follow you back to Augusta, but I couldn’t find Augusta Hill Road, does it also go by another name? Could you identify the tight country roads you took over to Beemererville?

Thanks, Bruce Bruce, All those roads are right there. You need some better maps! The online Bing maps are an excellent source of road goodness.

Walpack Valley resides along the Delaware, on the Jersey side, by the Dingman bridge. Augusta Hill Road is its only name and is off Route 206 in Augusta, leading to the Sussex County Fairgrounds. Good hunting and see you on the road.

The Stand Revisted Hello Brian and Shira: Thank you so much for the magazines. The kids loved it and the article was great. I just wanted to say hello and to let you know our children have officially started their own non-profit organization called Lemon-Aid for Lives. I am not sure if you remember us. You stopped by our home in Blairstown during one of our lemonade events. Your visit with them really inspired them to make this their life’s work. My daughter Amanda says she

just wants to see other children live out their dreams and she wants to do everything possible to make that happen.

The children are so excited, they have been asked to host the dunk tank at the Blairstown Town Foot-Bridge annual 4th of July celebration. All the money they receive will be donated to the charity of their choice. They have decided the money will be donated to St Jude’s hospital.

They really want to get involved, but I am not really sure how to jump start their organization. We have created a small web site www.lemon-Aidforlives.org. They are thinking of ways to generate money for their charity and they asked about possibly doing a motorcycle run for children with cancer. I am not sure how to accomplish this or if this is even possible. I thought maybe you could offer us some advise.

We really appreciate any input you could offer.

Thank you, All the Best to you Kim Gaudiosi Kim, We are so proud of your kids and hope that printing this letter will get some of our readers to Blairstown on the fourth to support them. For more information you can visit the Blairstown website: blairstownfourth.org

Kill Bill(’s Bugs)

Hey Bill If you’re looking for some bug management I have some advice. I can’t tell by your picture if you have a Street or Speed Triple but on my Speed Triple I installed a Laminar Lip. It does a great job of defusing the air but does not take away the look of the bike. The bugs end up at the top of your helmet and a few still get to the visor sometimes.

I also found a GREAT product that can clean your Agents who ride and understand entire bike…better than another other product…and it melts bugs away and will not leave any film on your your Motorcycle Insurance Needs MEMBER shield or star burst from headlights at night. Final InMEMBER spection 34 by Maguire’s. I keep that on my bike in a Ask about our Tour Cycle Program – the Ultimate in Coverage small spray bottle.

I personally like bugs because it means warm weather and the Gerbings go to storage.

Passenger Coverage • Accessories Coverage Gene Renna

Cycle Insurance Agency Inc. Recreational Vehicle Specialists

Medical Payments Coverage 448 Lincoln Ave • Hawthorne NJ 07506 • 973-427-2246 www.CycleInsuranceAgency.com Serving New Jersey, New York and Pennsylvania • ATV • Jet Ski • Snowmobile

To Backroads and Bergen BMW, I have to convey my thanks for publishing the ad for Bergen County BMW/Harley Davidson in last month’s Backroads issue. Even though it’s not right around the corner, Cathy and I paid them a visit on Saturday. They welcomed us with bagels and coffee, and then broke us up into three groups of 15 bikes each, and took us on a nicely paced 3 hour ride looping around Greenwood Lake, Warwick, and various points north. It was a perfect day for a ride, and everyone we met were all friendly, great people. When we returned to the dealership, we were again treated to a barbecue. What a great way to wrap up an already perfect day. Thanks again for turning us on to yet another great alternative for a place to spend the day and to go riding!

Larry Barasch Hi Brian, I always knew you were a man of the world, but an eyewear expert, gee I will never cease to be amazed.

The Stihl sunglasses you recommended in the May 2012 issue are as you described - excellent. I went to my Stihl dealer the next day and purchased two pair. I had them on every ride sinse. Great wind protection, comfortable and stylish. I am going for a third pair tomorrow. Anything else to share just let me know. Take care, keep the shiny side up and say hi to Shira.

Your jogging buddy, Tim Collins

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012 Hi guys Just had a very interesting thing happen. I was out for a ride on the bike and stopped at a red light. Facing traffic was also stopped. The green arrow came on and I started to turn left. The lady facing me looked left, looked right and turned right on a red. Never even saw me ‘til I was at her window yelling bad things at her. Never dawned on her to look for oncoming traffic.

Some of your readers might want to think about that threat. Green does not always mean safe. Hope your leg is better.

Jim and Marty Hey Brian!

I was quite surprised to be seeing a very clean “Mr. Happy” in an AeroStitch ad within their product catalog which they mailed to me.

In reading it - I expected to see references to you/BackRoads - but nothing.

Hummmmmmm....

Graham Sampson Graham, Where did you think we got him from?

Andy has been selling them for years. We have been featured a number of times with Notso in the Aerostich catalog, most famously with Notso being attacked by a bull elephant in Africa.

Our Notso is still the most famous of the Happy Folk, rest assured.

Our Mothers are so Proud Brian, You and Shira look like you are having a ball on the cover of latest BMWMOA magazine. Next it will be the cover of Sports Illustrated bathing suit edition!

Dick Roberts

Page 13 Brian/Shira Just returned from a ride to Texas, picked up a boxload of hold mail at the post office, which contained the May BMWON, which of course I read while still in the post office parking lot. And who has a very nice interview in said publication? My favorite couple from the right coast. Very well done, congratulations!

To the serious touring riders out there, here is one for your bucket list. You need to visit Texas in the spring and view the wildflowers. The Mrs. and I have been doing this for a number of years now and its truly magnificent. A sea of flowers that line the roads and fields as far as the eye can see. And to top it off a lot of this beauty can be found in the Hill Country Area, which in itself is a reason to spend a week in the region.

Roads that are proof positive that The Creator was a biker.

Here is one of our favorite places to stay and would definitely qualify as a "Moto-Inn" canidate.

The Woodbine Hotel and Restaurant, Madisonville, Texas. Innkeeper Susan Warmuth is a rider and understands the needs of us riders, which makes her a very good host. Seeing as how Texas is all about beef cattle, the prime rib she serves is without equal. Pecans are a big industry in Texas and Susan's "pecan crusted french toast" is to die for. The "pecan pancakes" as well. Check out her place at www.woodbinehotel.com I should also mention that German is spoken at The Woodbine, so if your BMW owners manual needs a translation, no problem. If in the area check it out, it's worth a visit or stay.

Maybe our paths will cross this summer, who knows.

Philip Eramo Columbus, Ohio

Town & Country CYCLE CENTER • 973-875-2111 www.townandcountrycyclecenter.com

115 Route 23N • Hamburg NJ

SUSSEXMOTORSPORTS 446 Route 23 • Sussex, NJ • Located across from the A&P Shopping Plaza

Experience the full line of Kawasaki motorcycles, sales and service we have to offer.

Visit us at www.sussexmotorsportsnj.com

973-875-3640 •

Open Tuesday thru Saturday

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 14

IND USTRY INFOBITES AMERICAN MOTORCYCLIST ASSOCIATION ONLINE SURVEY GIVES VOICE TO WOMEN MOTORCYCLISTS The AMA is pleased to announce the launch of an online survey exclusively for woman motorcyclists.

“How Many? How Strong?” is a brief 16-question poll that gives women riders the opportunity to share their opinions on topics such as riding style, how and where they ride, and more.

The survey is available at www.AmericanMotorcyclist.com/HowManyHowStrong.aspx “Women riders represent a significant and increasing segment of the motorcycling community,” said AMA Marketing Manager Tigra Tsujikawa.

“The AMA is committed to supporting these women across all ages and skill levels, and we encourage all women passionate about motorcycling to participate in the survey.” The How Many? How Strong? survey is designed to provide a look at modern women motorcyclists and co-riders. Women can choose to participate anonymously if they desire, and any personal information volunteered will not be shared, sold or marketed. The survey comes as the association prepares to welcome hundreds of women riders at the sixth AMA International Women & Motorcycling Conference, which draws participants from as far away as Japan and Australia. The 2012 event is July 2629 in Carson City, Nev., and the theme of “Ride Well” focuses on educating, encouraging, inspiring and mentoring women in the lifestyle and sport of motorcycling. Tsujikawa, who has been instrumental in planning this year’s conference, said there is no better venue for women who love to ride. “Carson City is welcoming women riders with open arms for our event,” she said.

“As one of the West’s premier motorcycling destinations, it provides the perfect setting for women who are passionate about motorcycling. And with

News from the Inside substantial discounts available to AMA members who register by May 15, as well as for those who join the AMA by purchasing a $49 membership, there’s no better place for women to share their passion for riding with likeminded riders.” Included in the AMA International Women & Motorcycling Conference registration fee is entry to seminars, the marketplace and Moto Action center, the Saturday Women’s Health Fair, priority registration for manufacturer demo rides, the Friday Night Cookout and Saturday Night Celebration Party, as well as a conference t-shirt and gift bag. Full conference details and registration, as well as information about how to become an AMA member, are available at WomenandMotorcycling.com or on the conference Facebook page at Facebook.com/AMAWomenAndMotorcycling. Online registration is also open to the public.

THE EDDIE JAMES FOUNDATION FOR CHILDREN AWARDS $39,750 GRANT TO MURPHY-HARPST CHILDREN’S CENTERS The Eddie James Foundation for Children, a non-profit foundation that directly funds and supports a variety of quality public and private programs dedicated to assist abused children and young adults, today announced the

award of a grant in the amount of $39,750 to Murphy-Harpst Children’s Centers. The grant will be used to establish an intern project that will prepare young adults to enter an independent living program.

According to Lisa Erbes, chairman of The Eddie James Foundation for Children, the Murphy-Harpst vision is an excellent match for the organiza-

WFO

inc.

Motorsports

**WE NOW BUY AND SELL USED MOTORCYCLES** Quality Late Model Motorcycles - All Manufacturers

Luggage • Jackets • Pants • Boots • Rain Gear Tools • Exhausts • Tires • Sprockets • Chains • Brakes Bar Risers • Lines • Ramps • Lifts • OEM Parts

SPORT • CRUISER • TOURING SPEED LIMIT

WFO

* Large Selection of Helmets * Track and Race Bike Set-Up * Track Day Information

wfomotorsports.net

* Suspension Work

973-579-5103

* Tires - Mounted and Balanced

* Great Service and Reasonable Prices

188 Halsey Rd (Rte. 626), Newton, NJ 07860 • fax 973-579-1806

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012 tion’s goal to stop the cycle of abuse through proper education, mentoring, counseling and activities that encourage children to reach their full potential without the influences of violence, addiction or neglect. “The intern program that will be possible as a result of this award will be key in the preparation of young adults to successfully move into adulthood and independence from the child welfare system. We are very excited to be part of this ground-breaking program.”

For more information about Murphy-Harpst Children’s Centers and the services they provide, visit their website at www.murphyharpst.org.

AMA FLASH TOURS PROMOTE FUN THEMES, PRIZES FOR ROAD RIDERS

American Motorcyclist Association Grand Tours have long offered motorcyclists a way to participate in great rides and win cool prizes on their own schedules. New for 2012, the AMA is introducing AMA Flash Tours, which put the grand tour concept on hyperdrive, including similarly fun themes but on a much more immediate schedule.

Page 15 At the start of each AMA Flash Tour, the AMA will announce a theme or challenge designed to get riders on the road to visit interesting destinations.

Participants then tackle the challenge and document their effort with a photo emailed to flashtours@americanmotorcyclist.com. (All photos may be shared on the AMA’s Facebook page at Facebook.com/AmericanMotorcyclist AMA Flash Tours run for approximately two weeks, and a lucky participant from each tour will be selected to win a prize pack from AMA partner organizations or the AMA Motorcycle Hall of Fame. For example, prizes might include Hall of Fame themed t-shirts, posters or other items.

The inaugural AMA Flash Tour was won by Jim and Shelly Holtman from Quincy, Ill., with a photo of their Harley-Davidson in front of the Classic Diner in Jacksonville, Ill. The tour ran from April 6 through April 19 with a “photo tag” theme. Riders were challenged to replicate the spirit of a scene in a photo provided by the AMA, which was a motorcycle in front of a diner. The second AMA Flash Tour is the “Go AMA! Flash Tour.” To participate, simply take a photograph of your bike at three places where “AMA” appears in the name (for example, “AlabAMA,” “Rick’s SkatorAMA,” etc.).

A sign with the name of the location must be included in the photograph, as well as the latest copy of your favorite riding publication. Then, email the photo to flashtours@americanmotorcyclist.com, and include your full name and address.

TRIP OF A LIFETIME In celebration of Bob’s BMW 30 Year Anniversary, owner Bob Henig and wife, Suzanne are coordinating an Edelweiss Tour through Eastern Europe.

From September 2-16, 2012 (exclusive dates JUST for Bob’s group), the group will enjoy traveling on 2-wheels through Austria, Czech Republic, Germany, Poland, and Hungary. You can get a day-to-day itinerary, price details, and what you can expect traveling 15 amazing days through Europe by visiting bosbmw.com/events and clicking on the Kings and Castles Tour.

This is not the first Edelweiss group Adventure that has been arranged through Bob’s BMW but after speaking to Suzanne, it seems to be one she is particularly looking forward to. Suzanne has been a passenger on many other Edelweiss tours and after looking at this trip’s itinerary she said, “The most exciting part about this trip for me is it is very passenger friendly. East-

June 23rd • 9am ~ 4pm

Raffles Refreshments In-Store Specials

F.W. SPEER YAMAHA 7 Main Ave • Passaic, NJ • 973-778-6256 • www.SpeerYamaha.com Tri-State Metro Area’s Oldest Yamaha Dealer. Last of the Mom and Pop Shops.

We are not a boutique. Gold-Certified Service Department. Top Ten in the Country.

Foggy Mountain Reliability Run • August 26 Call for details or Stop by the Shop to be put on the e-mail Blitz List

1269 DOLSONTOWN RD • MIDDLETOWN NY 10940 845-343-2552 • WWW.CYCLEMOTIONINC.COM

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 16

ern Europe is somewhere I have never been and always wanted to go so I love that the trip offers enough rest days that I will be able to explore the history and experience the culture of such amazing cities, as well as experience the breathtaking scenery.”

As a bonus to the trip, at no extra cost, there will be a pre-tour eastern European themed dinner hosted by Bob and Suzanne on July 28, 2012 plus all tour participants will receive special discounts from Bob’s BMW on riding gear, accessories, and Ogio luggage and gear bags to help make this adventure an even greater value.

So whether you plan on riding solo or with a passenger, the trip is a guaranteed time of your life. Suzanne and Bob have met some of their dearest friends on trips like these. They are looking forward to building more long lasting relationships with each and everyone that joins.

LONG-DISTANCE MOTORCYCLISTS PREPARING FOR NEW ENGLAND MOTOMARATHON, JUNE 7-10

Wheel Sport Center Inc. 399 HUGUENOT ST • NEW ROCHELLE, NY

914.636.7235 • fax 914-636-6184

WheelSportCenter.net

GREA ON A T PRICIN LL CR G U

ISERS GET Y OURS TODA Y! Franchised Yamaha Dealer for over 50 Years NewRocYamaha.com

For over 30 years Circle Cycle has helped riders get and stay on the road

The Motomarathon Association kicks off its 2012 long-distance endurance motorcycling season with the third annual New England Motomarathon, June 7-10.

“We have a dedicated team of certified Motomarathon Routemasters from Northern New Hampshire and down at our base in Connecticut who are working on choosing some of the best roads in New England,” said John Metzger, founder of the Motomarathon Association.

Routes for the four-day event are kept secret until the night before each day’s ride, and participants must complete a sequence of self-recorded checkpoints using digital cameras. Each day’s ride averages 300 to 400 miles. Day One routes will be revealed at the Comfort Suites, 89 Mill Plain Road, Danbury, CT 06811 at 8:00 p.m. on Wednesday, June 6th and again at 8:00 a.m. the morning of Thursday, June 7th.

Some of the route’s highlights include navigating the Western Massachusetts Berkshires, twisting through the ski country of Vermont’s Green Mountains and climbing into the White Mountains of New Hampshire.

For more information, please visit www.motomarathon.com, or contact Catherine Metzger, 303-440-1921 or motomarathon1@gmail.com.

ATTENTION ALL RIDERS

Our variety of powersports products is second to none.

Whether you’re riding offroad, backroads, or on the track, we’re here to get you where you need to go.

In northern New Jersey there isn’t a friendlier or more knowledgeable staff than ours. We’re happy to help you find the parts you’ve been looking for.

Online Shopping Available Check our catalog pages - if you don’t see what you want, give us a call or stop in - we’re always ready to help!

Looking for a great rider-friendly place to lay your head after a perfect day’s ride? Perhaps an eatery that truly appreciates your two-wheeled business?

Circle Cycle

Have we got some suggestions for you.

For the discriminating rider.

CIRCLE

570 Broad Ave, Ridgefield NJ

CYCLE 201-945-2200

web: www.circlecycle.net

Go directly to www.backroadsusa.com and check out the new Moto-Inn Program. Listed by state, all the members actively seek motorcyclists as customers and warmly welcome you. Remember to look for the Moto-Inn logo at these fine establishments and tell them you saw them in BACKROADS.

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 17

2010 Metallic Silver

BERGEN SPORT CYCLES Ride More, Stress Less

30 US H’Way 46 East, Lodi, NJ 07644

973-478-7711 bergensportcycle.com

We understand perfectly if you think your eyeballs are lying to you. Indeed, the Fury® appears to be something from the farthest fringes of the two-wheeled world. Yet it's a Honda, through and through.

Here we have the rolling incarnation of the pure, undiluted chopper essence, a machine that simply looks right, sounds right and goes straight to the heart of radical enthusiasts. Yet despite the extreme lines and head-turning looks, the Fury is backed up with the same fit and finish, functionality, affordability, quality and reliability built into every Honda. Who would have ever thought it possible?

BERGEN SPORT CYCLES Ride More, Stress Less

30 US H’Way 46 East, Lodi, NJ 07644

973-478-7711 bergensportcycle.com

2012 Councours™14 available in black and burgundy

BERGEN SPORT CYCLES Ride More, Stress Less

BERGEN SPORT CYCLES

Ride More, Stress Less

30 US H’Way 46 East, Lodi, NJ 07644

30 US H’Way 46 East, Lodi, NJ 07644

973-478-7711 bergensportcycle.com

973-478-7711 bergensportcycle.com

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 18

O’Toole’s Harley-Davidson Presents

G REAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN

tasty places to take your bike

tHe BridGe restaurant 17 rte. 17, addison, vermont 05491 • 802-759-2152 oPen BreakFast, luncH and dinner: 6:30am-8Pm doWnload GPs route: WWW.sendsPace.com/File/Hxi365 Bordering Vermont, for a good deal, on its west side is Lake Champlain. Over 110 miles long and about 12 miles wide, it has recently been declared a Great Lake by Congress.

Towards its southern end you’ll find a striking new bridge crossing over from Crown Point, New York to the tiny village of Addison, Vermont and Chimney State Park.

Just a stone’s throw from the Vermont side of the Bridge you will find this month’s stop on the Great All American Diner Run – The Bridge Restaurant.

During Americade we took a day trip up into the Adirondacks and then spun over to scenic Vermont. Being it was just about lunch time we made a beeline for this tiny eatery on the Vermont side of the bridge at Crown Point.

We luckily got a few tables quickly and sat down to take a look at what the Bridge had to offer.

This day the place was full of hungry riders, as the region draws motorcyclists here by the droves, and although I walked in thinking burger I quickly spied somebody’s reuben and a switch was made. It was just what I needed this day.

But others in our group ran through the menu. The Bridge Burger, a great creation on a Kaiser Roll. They also make a superb Club, with your choice of turkey, ham or roast beef. The BLT looked scrumptious, as did their sides of onion rings and fires. The Garlic Fries were yummy too.

All their beef comes locally from Wood Creek Farms (www.woodcreekfarmbeef.com), an excellent place that they are lucky to have nearby to provide their wonderful meats.

Moving onto their baskets The Bridge has a wide variety – Chicken, fried & tenders, clam strips, scallops, shrimp and a combo of all the seafood.

They also served up this big Fried Dough thingy that we spotted, but did not partake. No, that was left for the youngest of our crowd, Jill, who seemed to be able to eat such a monster and still ride back to Lake George.

There was also a big jar full of homemade donuts – now that I could handle happily with a good cup of coffee for dessert.

The Bridge restaurant has just what we look for when searching out a Great All American Diner Run. Great location, superb scenery, interesting roads and, most of all, good eats.

As Americade is right around the corner, we think that many of you will want to hold onto this Rip & Ride, cause along it we will bring you onto one of the finest roads in the Adirondacks - SR 4. Miles of undulating pavement without the bane of Americade crowds and traffic. In fact, when we rode this we saw nothing. Not one other vehicle be it car, truck or motorcycle. It was just us - and riding nirvana. On the way back we’ll bring you on some of Vermont’s quiet backroads. Enjoy!

O’TOOLE’S HARLEY-DAVIDSON®

4 Sullivan St. • Wurtsboro, NY • 845-888-2426 • www.OToolesHD.com

Sales • Service • Parts • Accessories Convenient location for the entire New York metro area New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Connecticut and Nassau + Suffolk Counties in New York

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 19

Rip & Ride® • THE BRIDGE RESTAURANT 17 RTE. 17, ADDISON, VERMONT 05491 • 802-759-2152 • DOWNLOAD GPS ROUTE: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/FILE/HXI365

NORTH FROM LAKE GEORGE VILLAGE ON RTE. 9N PASS ALL THOSE IDIOTS RIDING 10 MILES BELOW THE POSTED LIMIT LEFT ON RTE. 8 – HAGUE RIGHT AT SR 53 SHROON RIVER ROAD – BECOME 64 RIGHT AT RTE. 9 NORTH BEAR RIGHT AT CAZA TURN ROAD RIGHT AT SR 4 ENSIGN POND ROAD – ENJOY! RIGHT AT MAIN STREET PORT HENRY- RTE. 9N/ 22 LEFT AT BRIDGE STREET FOLLOW SIGN TO VERMONT CROSS BRIDGE - RESTAURANT IS DOWN ON RIGHT RETURN - RIGHT ON LAKE STREET LEFT ON WATCH POINT ROAD RIGHT ON SMITH STREET RIGHT ON HWY. 74 LEFT ON HWY. 73 BEAR RIGHT ON OLD FOUNDRY ROAD RIGHT ON HWY. 73 RIGHT ON MT. INDEPENDENCE ROAD LEFT ON TH-28

RIGHT ON OLD STAGE ROAD RIGHT ON FRAZIER HILL ROAD LEFT ON W. LAKE ROAD RIGHT ON LAKE ROAD LEFT ON CARTER STREET LEFT ON MONUMENT ROAD-INTO BURR ROAD LEFT ON MAIN ROAD LEFT ON BOOK ROAD CROSS POULTNEY RIVER ONTO CR-10 RIGHT ON N. WILLIAM STREET BEAR LEFT ONTO CR-12 RIGHT ON LOWER TURNPIKE ROAD RIGHT ON HWY 22 KEEP LEFT ON CR-17 RIGHT ON DEWEYS BRIDGE ROAD LEFT ON CLAY HILL ROAD CROSS CHAMPLAIN CANAL ONTO HWY 149 RIGHT ON 9L/RIDGE ROAD RIGHT ON BEACH ROAD BACK TO LAKE GEORGE

New XL 1200V Seventy-Two™

Saturday, June 2 • 11-3:30pm

Owning a Harley-Davidson® motorcycle has always been part of the American Dream and the new Sportster® Seventy-Two™ highlights the Harley-Davidson® brand to perfection. The name pays homage to Route Seventy-Two running through East LA, the birthplace of the stripped down, low rider culture. The bike is a bare bones, radical custom that screams high-end, but at a price that makes the Seventy-Two™ motorcycle truly accessible to the masses.

Now Recruiting New Riders

Motorcycle Boot Camp is a great introduction to the sport of motorcycling and the Harley-Davidson® experience. Learn about everything from headlights to tailpipes, how to tell a Sportster™ from a Softail™ and which bike is perfect for you. Space is limited so please RSVP. FREE GIFT when you bring a pal.

Join us Saturday

June 16 • 12-2pm

Bikini Bike Wash

O’Toole’s Harley-Davidson®

4 Sullivan St, Wurtsboro, NY

845-888-2426 • www.otooleshd.com

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 20

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s M YST ER IOU S AM ER IC A tHe american military edGed WeaPonry museum 3562 old PHiladelPHia Pike, intercourse, Pa 17534 717- 768-7185 In these modern times we think of warfare and warriors in the context of firearms, high technology and trappings of modern warfare. Jets, subs, warships, smart bombs and, now, drones.

Still to this day men and women in branches of service around the world carry blades into battle. Find me a dress uniform squad without beautiful blades. You won’t. Think the Marines here.

The sword has been used in battle and pomp for centuries and always will.

But, first let us get a little history in on the weapon called the sword.

A sword is a bladed weapon (edged weapon) used primarily for cutting or thrusting. The precise definition of the term varies with the historical epoch or the geographical region under consideration.

In the narrow sense, a sword consists of a straight blade with two edges and a hilt. However, in some cases the term may also refer to weapons with a single edge also called a backsword.

The word sword comes from the Old English “sweord”, cognate to Old High German swert, Old Norse sverð, from a Proto-Indo-European root ‘swer’- “to wound, to cut”. Non-European weapons called “sword” include single-edged weapons such as the Middle Eastern saif, the Chinese dao and the related Japanese katana. The Chinese jian is an example of a non-European double-edged sword, like the European models derived from the double-edged Iron Age sword.

Along the peaceful and easy riding roads of Lancaster counties Amish country you will find the curiously named village of Intercourse.

In the center of the town stands a proud old bank

created in the Colonial Revival style, built in 1908. Here it served the locals in such a manner till 1974 and in 1987 it was taken over and given a new mission in life - the home for The American Military Edged Weaponry Museum.

The brainchild and dream of Larry Thomas, Sr., he has brought in one of the most complete and incredible collections of swords and blades, almost all United States Military, I have ever encountered in my travels around this Mysterious America.

Incredibly well displayed these blades all tell a story and a walk through The American Military Edged Weaponry Museum is like walking through the history of the United States military.

With nearly 4,000 blades on display one quickly learns the importance and necessity of such weapons. While swords have usually been associated with handsome officers and dashing cavalry charges, the truth is that blades such as bayonets and knives have been given a less spectacular role in warfare though none-the-less important, especially for infantryman.

In real war, close hand-to-hand knife fighting have turned the battle many a time.

The display here at The American Military Edged Weaponry Museum will be found beneath 2,600 square feet of glass and are arranged by both type and period. Each display has a succinct description to inform you of the blades history and use.

All branches of the service have blades represented as well as many pieces from the Confederate side of the Civil War too. Oddities abound as well, and the “Trench Art” Bullet Knife from World War I which was particularly interesting to me. It is a mystery in itself that men, who are

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 21 If you are an aficionado of the military and warfare then at each turn in the American Military Edged Weaponry Museum you will find something at which to marvel.

The museum also offers a good selection of informative and historic books and, unlike some museums, many pieces and items can be bought – for the right price. Quality items of any kind are never cheap, but appreciation in value is always a good investment. Why not take home a bit of American history.

The American Military Edged Weaponry Museum was a great find and a wonderful stop while exploring the byways and backroads of this Mysterious America.

under such terrible duress, can create such beautiful, yet deadly, artfully crafted blades.

Some of the smaller blades, made specifically for hand-to-hand fighting were just down right nasty.

Sharpened knuckle points for punching your foe when unable to stab him made these blades very mean indeed.

For those of you who like more conventional and modern weapons Mr. Thomas has a serious collection of military rifles spanning the years; from the beginning of the United States through all our major conflicts including the battlefields that are in the news these days.

I especially liked the old M1 Carbine with attached bayonet and ammo pouch on the stock.

The modern day rocket launcher and bazookas were impressive too.

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 22

Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents

W E’RE OUT TA HERE tHe toWns inn 179 HiGH street, HarPers Ferry, Wv 25425 877-489-2447 • WWW.tHetoWnsinn.com doWnload GPs Here: www.sendspace.com/file/e3s2x2

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads with shared baths, with the Friendship Room having 6 beds which is great for a group. Each room has a small kitchen area and/or microwave and fridge.

The Inn has fee wireless internet and there is even a rag bag to use if your bike needs some shining. Parking is off premises, but we don’t think you’ll have no worry here.

Looking for that little hidden getaway? Aren’t we all?

Well this month’s We’re Outta Here rides to just that.

Cozy, comfortable and located in a town rich in history – Harpers Ferry, West Virginia So follow along for the ride.

We’ve spent some time in Harpers Ferry and in addition to being full of history and in one of the most beautiful places in the United States, right at the confluence

Owner Karan Townsend, would be happy to have you and yours spend some time and there is plenty to see in Harpers Ferry, between its natural beauty, civil war look and deep history.

The Towns Inn has an excellent restaurant

of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers where the U.S. states of Maryland, Virginia, and West Virginia come together, you’ll find The Towns Inn. The Towns Inn consists of two pre-Civil War stone residences (circa 1840): the Heritage House and the Mountain House situated in the heart of historic Harpers Ferry, surrounded by the Harpers Ferry National Historic Park.

The Heritage House rooms are above the Town’s Pub and Eatery. There are three private bedrooms with either full or twin beds, three private bathrooms and a parlor with a shared kitchen area. Each room has a fridge and coffee-maker.

The four rooms of the Mountain House can be rented as private rooms

(the Fried Green Beans are killer!) and across the street, the Secret Six Tavern offers excellent meals as well.

A visit to this quaint, historic community, at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers, is like stepping

Are you ready for the most comfortable motorcycle saddle?

A saddle that fits properly eliminates pressure points that reduce blood flow. It takes a solid understanding of human anatomy and extensive motorcycle experience to make a truly fine motorcycle saddle. Let Rick’s medical expertise as a critical care nurse and extensive riding experience combine to create a truly great saddle hand-made just for you. Prices start at $269.

www.RickMayerCycle.com

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 23

Rip & Ride® • THE TOWNS INN, 179 HIGH STREET HARPERS FERRY, WV 25425 • 877-489-2447 • WWW.THETOWNSINN.COM 365-MILE RIDE DOWNLOAD: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/FILE/E3S2X2

START: DELAWARE WATER GAP - I-80 WEST I-81 SOUTH EXIT AT RTE. 209 SOUTH AT T IN MILLERSBURG MAKE RIGHT THEN LEFT TO RIVER FERRY ONE BLOCK TO RIGHT - OPEN DOOR FOR FERRY RTE. 34 ACROSS HIGHWAY IF BY FERRY STRAIGHT AT 274 SOUTH STRAIGHT AT 75 SOUTH RIGHT AT PATH VALLEY RD RIGHT AT SPRING RUN ROAD STRAIGHT AT 522 LEFT AT 994 LEFT 3017 RIGHT AT 913 LEFT AT 26 SOUTH - GREAT ROAD INTO MARYLAND CR 40 CROSS 1-68 GO STRAIGHT LITTLE ORLEANS – BECOMES UNPAVED FOR A BIT LEFT AT RTE. 51 INTO 9

TAKE RTE. 9 EAST LEFT AT RTE. 340 TO HARPERS FERRY BEAR LEFT TO SHENANDOAH STREET LEFT TO HIGH THE TOWNS INN ON LEFT into the past. Stroll the picturesque streets, visit exhibits and museums, or hike the trails and battlefields.

In the town you’ll find many historical tours, ghost tours, and other specialty tours and the rivers offer great opportunity to park the motorcycles and go rafting and kayaking.

There’s a wide variety of experiences for we riders, so come and discover Harpers Ferry, we are sure you’ll love it.

Do you have a great idea for a weekend getaway, eatery, or quirky destination? Take some pictures, write it up and send it in. You’ll get some gas money for your efforts. email: editor@backroadsusa.com

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 24

BIG CIT Y G ETAWAY seven, tHe easy Way Jeff Bahr In August of 2011 Hurricane Irene tore through the northeastern states with a ferocity rarely seen at these latitudes. While the wind was bad enough, water acted as the chief villain in this frothing nightmare come to life. It was a fact driven home by a gaggle of cable news outlets hell-bent on airing every snippet of the storm’s destructive fury. Human tragedies notwithstanding, the saddest moment arrived when Vermont’s Bartonsville Covered Bridge a bucolic crossing that had stared down the elements since 1871 - was seen breaking from its abutments and floating unceremoniously down the floodravaged Williams River. Locals who witnessed the shocking event were heartbroken and with good reason. In their eyes this wasn’t some ordinary, utilitarian crossing. Over the years “Ol’ Bart” had become their friend. Covered bridges can have that effect on people.

One month later, for purely nostalgic reasons, I decide to drop-in on some of Bart’s “friends.” Strapped for time and hopelessly situated in the coveredbridge deprived NY metro area, I quickly realize that Vermont is out of the question, as are most New England states. Then it comes to me: I’ll take a short cruise to nearby Pennsylvania. Surprisingly, the Keystone State features more than 200 “crossings with top-hats” - far and away the most of any state. I choose the eastern region, zeroing in on a group of seven spans located in the rider-friendly Lehigh Valley. All I need do is make my way to 7th and Hamilton St in Allentown’s center square and follow posted signs for the “covered bridge tour.” Seven, the easy way, you could say.

BoGert’s BridGe I’m not going to mislead you. The roads leading to the first two bridges in this tour flirt with civilization but never enough to intrude on the overall experience. Hang in there, riders. It will be well worth it! One of the nicest features of Bogert’s Bridge is its charming setting. Located just a stone’s throw from bustling Allentown, the Burr-Arch crossing and surrounding acres evoke feelings from another time. The 145-foot span (longest of the seven) is painted requisite red, much like the vast majority of Pennsylvania’s cov-

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind ered bridges. It has been closed to motor vehicles since 1956. Since that time the bridge has attracted walkers, hikers, exercise buffs, and more than a few people out for a picnic. The Little Lehigh Creek that it crosses offers an ideal setting for those pursuits and many more. For motorcyclists, it’s a great place to kick back and contemplate covered bridges and twisties yet to come.

manasses Guth Bridge The focal point of Whitehall Township’s Covered Bridge Park - the 108foot Burr-Arch Manassas Guth Bridge - stands high and mighty above Jordan Creek flowing swiftly beneath it. Remember that name. Five of the spans in this tour will cross over this very river. A weathered barn and nearby farmhouse compliment the already agreeable imagery. An adjacent parking lot can accommodate a rally’s worth of riders, so this location makes for a worthy meeting/eating area. Enjoy the view but don’t dally too much. We have five more bridges on the docket.

www.cyclecityofny.com We Service ALL American V-Twins, Harley-Davidson, Customs, Choppers & Exotics!

FREE Helmet with Bike Purchase

• Engine Rebuilds • Transmission Rebuilds • Diagnostic Tests • Performance Suspension • Accessory Installation …and much much more

174 Route 17 • North Sloatsburg, NY 10974 • 845-712-5406

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 25

Wehr’s Bridge

wooden refugee from the distant past. It’s a small miracle that the old span still stands. As covered bridges go this one is intriguing enough. But its aging shingles, dowels and planks aside, the real charm of this span is its much welcomed respite from modern life. For the brief spell that I stood beside it, no less than four joggers crossed and re-crossed the relic. These folks were obviously out to burn some calories. Stepping back in time was their nonfat bonus.

I’m tempted to say that the 138-foot-long Wehr’s Bridge (yet another example of the popular Burr Arch) offers up more of the same, but that would be to minimize the covered bridge experience. Each of these structural relics features its very own creaks and cracks, charms and idiosyncrasies, and each is situated in a setting quite unlike the one before it.

In the case of Wehr’s Bridge, that setting is at the extreme end of Covered Bridge Park. Here, the traffic runs heavy at times (a whopping 2-3 cars per minute), but never enough to stop a determined bridge-walker from sampling its deck. Built in 1841, Wehr’s Bridge ties with Bogert’s Bridge as the oldest remaining covered bridge in Lehigh County. In fact, both bridges are amongst the oldest in the country. To put their age into perspective, Abraham Lincoln was a rising 32-year-old lawyer living in Illinois when workers cobbled these spans together. And he had just broken off his engagement with Mary Todd; a sad parting that would last until 1842 when the two would ultimately marry.

The rest, as they say, is history.

Breaking from the standard V-shaped roof format, Geiger’s Bridge covers itself in interesting stepped portals. It’s one of only a few such bridges in the state, and a nice change from the look-alikes that preceded it.

If you look closely you will spot a cement foundation and pump apparatus running along one side of the bridge. These remnants were once used to support a pipe that delivered water from Jordan Creek to nearby farms and orchards. At 112-feet-long Geiger’s won’t win any length contests, but its appealing design and overall condition will make covered-bridge lovers hearts go aflutter.

rex’s BridGe

scHiller’s BridGe

Speaking of differences in settings, the circa 1858 Rex’s Bridge sticks out like the proverbial sore thumb. Why? Because the 138- foot crossing stands amidst a rather profuse development of modern-day McMansions. Riding your motorcycle to this bridge is an exercise in incongruence. One second you’re zipping past a preponderance of successshacks, the next you come upon a

GeiGer’s BridGe

Schiller’s bridge is another that stands apart from the rest. The 108-foot Burr Arch Bridge chucks the red paint format entirely, choosing instead to clad itself in an innocuous shade of white. It’s currently closed to traffic.

This last bit is good and bad. From a bridge-walking standpoint, it’s nice that one can move about unimpeded, examining cross-beams and joists without

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 26

fear of being reduced to a pancake by an errant Chevy. But the closing disrupts the tour’s continuity to a small degree. One year prior to this visit, I was able to cruise over the bridge and continue on my merry way. When/if the bridge will reopen is anyone’s guess. Schiller’s is located directly beside the Trexler Nature Preserve. If you’re into wild animals and the natural world, consider this a little slice of nirvana. And there’s something for daredevils as well. A thru-ride across the preserve (you can execute a U-turn if need be) requires a water crossing at Jordan Creek. If you’ve yet to ford a stream with your bike, this will either make or break you. You’ve been warned.

kreidersville BridGe Finally, we arrive at Kreidersville Bridge, a circa-1839, Burr Arch beauty that clocks in as the oldest on tour. To use the Lincoln timeline once again, the 100-foot-long span was completed the very same year that Honest Abe, a mere sprite at 30, met the fair Mary Todd. The pickup occurred at a Christmas party (don’t they all?). In 1959, plans to raze the old crossing in favor of a soulless concrete bridge prodded area folk into action. Luckily, they saved the span from demolition and our eyes from an abomination. It is now the only remaining covered bridge in Northampton County. Modern man has dressed up the acreage around this bridge far more than most on this tour, but somehow this modern wrap serves to enhance, rather than detract. Long

Ride Ireland!

Ancient culture, mysterious and enchanting landscapes, roads created by a motorcycling god, stunning rugged coastline and renowned Irish hospitality.

Join Backroads in Ireland August 12-19. For full details visit the website and go to the 8-day tour.

closed to traffic, the bridge is an ideal place to enjoy a few moments of solitude before starting back. Life is good, yes?

Lehigh Valley Covered Bridge Tour directions:

Check out our website:

www.visitpa.com/covered-bridge-tour

www.celticrider.ie

For ideas on places to stay and eat: www.discoverlehighvalley.com

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 28

First Ride - 2012 Aprilia Dorsoduro 1200 personally think the word Dorsoduro in Italian means “badass,” as there is simply no other word to describe the 1200cc V -twin “maximotard” from Noale, Italy. The day I took delivery, I pulled out of my neighborhood, gave a solid twist on the throttle and, to put it in modern vernacular, let out a violent “OMG” as the front wheel went instantly skyward. Quickly short-shifting to second gear, after another twist of the throttle I let out a yelping “WTF” as the front wheel again disconnected from the ground again. This thing is pure madness.

But why should I expect anything different from the Italian company that brought us the poster child for mad motorcycles, the Tuono, and probably the most insane motorcycle to wear a license plate, the SXV550?

I

Styled to look like its smaller sibling, the Dorsoduro 750, the new Aprilia Dorsoduro 1200 makes no excuses for its sporting nature, so to see what it was made of, I packed a bag and headed out to the infamous Tail of the Dragon. With 318 turns in 11 miles, it is some of the most demanding motorcycling real estate in the country

Words: N

an d le Bayly a e N : s e ly • Imag eale Bay

Killboy

You’re invited for our 40th Anniversary Celebration

SATURDAY JUNE 23 9AM-4PM HARLEY-DAVIDSON of LONG BRANCH

®

671 Broadway, Long Branch, NJ

www.HDLongBranch.com 732-229-8518 Like us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/harleydavidsonlongbranch

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 29 lightly traveled roads, I wicked it up a few times and enjoyed mostly the same result. The longer-travel suspension is a tad mushy when the going gets heated, though; but on a public road that sort of behavior is soon going to end in tears, so this is not something to complain about. The bike uses a Sachs 43 mm inverted fork up front with 6.3 inches of travel so it can handle any type of road surface you throw at it. Although adjustable in all the usual ways, I left it as delivered, and while it could have been tightened up for hard-braking, I preferred the compromise for maximizing all the comfort possible to offset the uncomfortable seat.

In the rear, a single Sachs single gas-charged shock is used and mounts straight to the swingarm without a linkage. It’s easily accessible as it sits out to the side and comes with pre-load, compression, and rebound adjustment.

With 6.1 inches of travel, it soaks up bumpy roads with aplomb, -just don’t expect racetrack-type handling at speed with this much travel. Stopping the beast, a pair of radial-mount Brembo four-piston calipers overachieve up front as they do the business on a pair of 320mm rotors. A smaller 240mm disc in the rear gets a single-piston caliper, which is more than adequate for reducing tire life when coming to a halt sideways in a plume of smoke. As

and will quickly find any weaknesses a bike or rider might exhibit. Taking a side trip to Mt. Mitchell on the way, and spending some time avoiding park rangers on the Blue Ridge Parkway, gave me some surprising additional insight into the big Italian twin. With a seat that must have been designed by the same person who invented stiletto heels, the ride to Robbinsville created quite the dichotomy, as the incredible engine set in touring mode to tame down the power delivery on the tighter country roads, the nimble handling from the upright riding position, the wide bars, and the excellent brakes, the Dorsoduro was so addictive I didn’t want to get off. Though with the seat making my tender, office-chair-conditioned arse feel after a few hundred

miles like someone had been beating it with a baseball bat, I was in a constant internal fight between wanting to keep going, and wanting to stop. Fortunately, the 3.9gallon gas tank only allows about 100 miles before the fill-up light comes on, so you have to stop, and it’s a testament to the Aprilia’s intoxicating riding experience that the pleasure always won over the pain. But while this made for a great weekend’s riding, it’s not going to be practical for long-term owners, and with the bike’s excellent ability to handle sport touring duties, hopefully Aprilia or an aftermarket company can address the seat issue.

Once out on the Dragon, it was back in sport mode, although to be honest, with all the crazies flying up and down I was relatively conservative. Enjoying the way the bike flicked in and out of the tight corners with so much in reserve was actually more enjoyable than pushing hard and risking problems. Moving to some

Page 30 tested, the Dorsoduro came with a set of Dunlop Qualifiers, which do a great job in wet or dry conditions, and they certainly look as if they should last a while if you can manage to be conservative with the back brake.

The heart of the matter is the 1197cc fuel-injected V-twin using four-valves per cylinder and a pair of 106mm pistons spinning in a short 67.8mm stroke. Thumping out a quoted 130 horsepower at 8,700 rpm, there is 73 lb-ft of torque available at 7,600 rpm. While these figures would make it seem that the Aprilia is a little highly strung, it’s actually very strong off the bottom end, and when ridden calmly, the big Italian twin is very smooth and conservative in the way it puts the power to the ground. Gearing seems short, as most of the fun seems to be over once you get to around 110mph, and, while I never went much faster, I don’t think top speed would be much more than 125mph. With just a small bikini-style minifairing, there’s no need for more speed, as it doesn’t give a lot of wind protection. It does help though, and on the highway at 7080mph it doesn’t create any unpleasant buffeting or turbulence, and the air that is hitting you is very clean.

An interesting part of having the Aprilia on test

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS was the comments I heard and the conversations it provoked. The styling is pure wicked, and for me it’s one of those bikes I could just sit back and gaze at after a long ride. The super-sexy steel-trellis/aluminum frame, the gorgeous sculptured swingarm, and the sleek, angular body-parts make it stand out in any crowd. The large undertail exhausts might be a love it or hate it feature for some, but they work for me, and if you have seen one with an Akropovic system installed, you won’t have any trouble with what to ask Santa for next year. This would help get the Aprilia’s 490-pound weight down, and remove the weight from up high, which would make it change direction even faster.

With ride-by-wire throttle, three-position mapping for sport, tour, or rain mode, but no slipper clutch or anti-lock brakes, the Dorsoduro is both sophisticated and basic in the same breath. With the big torquey V-twin, and closely spaced gear ratios, a slipper clutch would be nice, although ABS is not so important for me as the strong brakes are super-sensitive and easy to modulate. Rain mode is important though, as it reduces the power to around 100 ponies, which makes life a little saner when grip levels are low.

Switchgear and instruments are all sharp, modern Aprilia fare, and there are no surprises in the way they operate. Paint finish and quality are excellent, as are all the cycle parts, although new owners are going to want to remove the warning stickers which seem to be plastered everywhere. Available for $11,999, the new Aprilia Dorsoduro 1200 fits somewhere in amongst the Ducati Hypermotard, the KTM 990, and possibly BMW’s HP2 in the large motard class as it competes for customer dollars. As pictured here in black, it looks to me like it’s ready for a fight, and with its knockout punch from the muscular engine, coupled with light, agile handling, it’s totally equipped to win. “LOL.”

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

Page 31

A COUPLE OF NEW LIDS FROM SCHUBERTH

s2 FullFace Helmet German ‘head protection technology’ company, Schuberth, announces the latest offering to its aerodynamic, aeroacoustic motorcycle helmet collection - the S2 full face helmet. After ramping up business in North America with the award winning C3 flip-up helmet, Schuberth is expanding into new markets with the all-around sporty full face S2.

The S2 is not just another high-end full face helmet with integrated sun visor. It is the world’s first motorcycle helmet with an internal Dual Band Antenna which enhances the reception of the Bluetooth® Schuberth Rider Communication System. The extraordinarily light and quiet S2 also features a backspoiler which is molded into the shell to reduce drag, and a full-circumference downforce “trim spoiler” around the base of the helmet which also reduces drag and keeps air from flowing under the helmet creating noise. The internal sun visor, luxurious Thermo Cool liner and the advanced Air Extraction System make the S2 an unrivaled all-around helmet.

“Response to our award-winning C3 flip-up helmet has been way beyond expectation, but we have also had demand for a full face,” says Randy Northrup, Schuberth North America’s Vice President. “We listened to our customers and are proud to offer our premium full-face helmet that sets a new standard in the application of aerodynamics and aeroacoustics in helmet technology.”

In addition to the unique new features, the S2 naturally includes Schuberth’s patented Anti Roll Off System (AROS), the “turbulators” on the face shield to eliminate wind noise and a shell made from Schuberth’s proprietary S.T.R.O.N.G. woven glass fiber material. The sporty helmet is produced using 2 shell sizes offering optimal fit throughout the size range, and is much

more compact and aerodynamic than its predecessor, the S1.

An updated Schuberth Rider Communication System, the SRCS-2, is being developed specifically for use with the S2 and will be available this summer.

The SRCS-2, an optional Bluetooth® communication system which is fully integrated in an easy-to-install replacement neck collar, enables users to wirelessly connect to passengers or other riders, navigation system, cellular phone, mp3 player and to receive FM radio.

The MSRP for the S2 is $699, comes in sizes XS-XXXL and colors Gloss Black, Matte Black, Gloss Silver, Gloss White

can you see me noW Schuberth North America announces delivery of the “HiViz Orange” C3 to select dealers across the U.S.A. and Canada. The C3 is the German manufacturer’s award winning helmet: the lightest, quietest, most aerodynamic flip-up motorcycle helmet on the market.

“We decided to bring in the Hi-Viz Orange C3 because the Hi-Viz Yellow was such a hit and we are seeing more and more Hi-Viz Orange in motorcycle apparel,” reports Sarah Schilke, Schuberth North America’s Marketing and P.R. Manager, “it has proven to be a popular color, especially among KTM riders.”

The Hi-Visibility orange color is noted for its eye-catching brightness, making it popular with safety oriented riders who like to increase their visibility as much as possible to stand out in traffic. Many companies offer protective motorcycle gear in matching hi-viz orange to complete the ensemble.

Details about the S2 and C3 flip-up helmet and dealer locations are available on the Schuberth website: schuberth.com.

The MSRP for the C3 is $729 and available in sizes S - XXXL.

Your Ducati Source

Take yours home today.

All New 2012 Monsters 696, 796 and 1100 Evo. Shop our large selection for the latest in Ducati Performance parts, apparel and accessories.

OBJECTS IN MIRROR ARE DEFINITELY SLOWER THAN THEY APPEAR. BMW Motorrad took the world by storm with the introduction of the original S 1000 RR. Now, only two years after its introduction, we’ve made more than 35 significant improvements. The NEW second generation RR is poised to retain its crown as the King of the Superbikes.

The 2012 BMW S 1000 RR is more than just the best. It’s superbike royalty. Long live the King.

We have the full line of BMW motorcycles as well as apparel and accessories.

Make us your final destination for the best BMW sales & service.

CROSS COUNTRY BMW

911 Middlesex Ave Metuchen, NJ 08840-2224 (732) 635-0094 • www.ccbmw.com

MARK THESE DATES

JUNE 15-16 BMW Demo Truck Event

JUNE 30 Teach McNeil Stunt Show

Cross Country Ducati Factory Authorized Sales and Service 911 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ 08840

732.635.0094 • www.ccducati.com

Make us your

One-Stop for Apparel, Riding Gear and Accessories.

WE HAVE IT ALL!

CROSS COUNTRY CYCLE 911 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ (732) 635-2900 Find Us on Facebook • crosscountrycycle.net

THE RIGHT SIZE FOR ALMOST EVERYONE CBR®1000RR

CBR®250R

CBR®600RR

NC700X

WIN A TRIP TO THE CONCERT OF THE YEAR.* Sign up for a TEST RIDE to be entered for a chance to win. honda.com

*No purchase necessary.

See dealer for complete official rules.

ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET, EYE PROTECTION AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING. NEVER RIDE UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF DRUGS OR ALCOHOL, AND NEVER USE THE STREET AS A RACETRACK. OBEY THE LAW, AND READ YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL THOROUGHLY. For riding training information or to locate a rider-training course near you, call the Motorcycle Safety Foundation at 1-800-446-9227. CBR ® is a trademark of Honda Motor Co., Ltd. (02/12)

Don’t Miss Our

Victory Metuchen

OPEN HOUSE

JUNE 30th

911 Middlesex Ave. (Rte. 27), Metuchen, NJ 08840

732.491.2900 www.VictoryMetuchen.com

with professional rider 911 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ (732) 906-9292 Find Us on Facebook • SportHonda.net

THE REIGN BEGINS • WORLD’S MOST POWERFUL MASS-PRODUCTION 1441CC ENGINE • CATEGORY-LEADING TECHNOLOGY WITH MULTI-MODE TRACTION CONTROL

2012

Visit our new showroom located in Central New Jersey Just 10 minutes from Staten Island, 30 minutes from New York and 1 hour from Pennsylvania

www.kawasaki.com

Kawasaki Metuchen 911 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ (732) 491-2900 Find Us on Facebook • KawasakiMetuchen.com

CAN-AM METUCHEN 911 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ 08840 (732) 491-2900 • www.canammetuchen.com

Chris ‘Teach’ McNeil

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 34

30,000 Miles On The Blue Ridge Parkway...

Jerry Finley

While riding a high altitude ridge last week I got to thinking about all the time and miles I’d spent on the BRPW. I did some quick Jethro Bodine cipherin’ and realized that over the years I’d easily put in over 25,000 miles on this one road.

Probably closer to 30,000. Could this be true?

This fact actually took me by surprise. Most of these miles I’d obviously put on in the last 8 years since Amber and I moved to Asheville as I ride the Parkway almost every time I throw a leg over the seat, but even before that I’d been making regular trips since I bought my first motorcycle back in 1972. Truth be told, my love affair with the BRPW goes back even further to a simpler time when gas was .29 cents a gallon, the “fab four” were just conquering America, and color TV was still a luxury.

Get Your Back Ready

for the Summer Riding Weather

MON, TUES, WED, FRI: 9A-6P THURS 9A-8P • SAT 8A-3P • SUN 10A-3P

I think .. no.. I know I got my love of traveling from my father. He took my mother, my younger sister, and I all over the country when I was a kid. Always by car.

Never by plane, boat, or train. Our 4 wheel adventures took us from coast to coast .. border to border .. and cheap motel to cheap motel. By the time I was 10 I’d seen dozens of national and state parks, beaches in almost every coastal state, both Disney parks, scenic water parks, not-so scenic water parks, cold wet caverns, bat-infested caves, Indian reservations, and a myriad of low budget tourist attractions that would make Clark W. Griswold giddy.

I got my first look at the Blue Ridge Parkway in 1965. While on a weekend trip from Nashville to Gatlinburg, Tennessee my dad casually mentioned that we could return to Nashville via the scenic Blue Ridge Parkway if we were interested. He was always the spur of the moment kinda guy. I inherited the trait along with his receding hairline and a total disregard for speed laws, but not much else. Anyway…I must have been 9 or 10. I’d never heard of the Blue Ridge Parkway, which wasn’t even complete at the time, but I sure liked the sound of it. I remember my dad pulling out his

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 35

trusty, nearly worn out ESSO map, laying it out on the hood of his robin’s egg blue and white Chevy Impala, then letting me help plot our adventure together. I should say he allowed me to “think” I was helping when in reality I couldn’t find my ass with both hands, a hand mirror, and a proctologist’s cliff notes. Unfortunately, my genetic makeup didn’t include even one chromosome of my dad’s Magellan-like navigational skills. I have no sense of direction. It’s been a curse my entire life and probably my greatest genetic failing, but I digress. According to the map, the southern entrance was only about 40 miles out. Although, at this early age I had seen more of America’s natural beauty than most Americans see in a lifetime, my life was about to change.

Once we were up on the parkway I was hooked. Over the course of this single, unforgettable day we were treated to sweeping curves, scenic overlooks, lush vistas, perfect asphalt, distant waterfalls, and the ever present otherworldly bluish hue and low rolling clouds that gave birth to the names Blue Ridge and Smoky mountains. The Cherokee Indians used the word “shaconage” to describe these mountains. It means “blue, like smoke.” In my prepubescent mind, this was heaven on earth. I had never seen anything like this except maybe parts of Northern California. Mile after mile I sat and marveled at nature’s grandiosity as a constant strobe of light, shadows, colors, and images clandestinely imprint future memories onto unsullied synapses. I would never forget this day.

I also remember feeling a little scared. Setting the “way back” machine to as far as my pitiful memory’s spindly little legs will carry me, I distinctly remember no other cars on the road. No

THIS YEAR’S MUST-HAVE FASHION ACCESSORY. Control the streets and send a message to the city with the F 800 R. The performance is as impressive as the design with a responsive twin-cylinder engine providing plenty of power for riders who want to roll through the city or head out to run across the back country roads.

MCC is all things BMW with a full selection of 2012 BMWs in stock, as well as parts and accessories, and fully trained and certified BMW technicians for your service needs.

MONTGOMERYVILLE CYCLE CENTER 2901 Bethlehem Pike Hatfield, PA 19440-1320 (215) 712-7433 www.MontgomeryvilleCC.com

F 800 R. UNSTOPPABLE URBAN. ©2012 BMW Motorrad USA, a division of BMW of North America, LLC. The BMW name and logo are registered trademarks. Always ride safely and wear proper protective gear.

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 36 gas stations. No signs of civilization. What would happen should we break down? There were no cell phones in those days and cars weren’t as dependable.

Getting stranded was a real possibility. Deep down I knew my dad could handle any unpleasant situation that might occur, but this feeling of utter solitude and isolation was new to me. It was both exhilarating and scary and I loved it!

After the trip was over, whenever my dad asked us where we’d like to go next, I always asked to go back to the parkway and we did once or twice. Always as a family. I’d hoped that he’d take me on his motorcycle some day, just me and him, but for whatever reason that never happened and then, as I aged, the opportu-

ride, many of them considered some of the best the US has to offer, I still do about 95% of my riding on the BRPW. It is my younger self’s dream realized. One might assume by now that I’d be tired of running the same stretch of tarmac week after week, year after year, decade after decade, but they’d be wrong. Every single time I ride the BRPW (and this is no exaggeration) it still takes my breath away.

Certain times of year, the beauty of the BRPW is so overwhelming that it’s brought me to tears.

Other times, the parkways’ attributes are so subtle as to be almost hidden from view. While everyone appreciates the legendary bright colors of autumn

nities were no more. It’s been 42 years since the last time my dad and I were on the parkway together, but I remember it as if it was yesterday. Looking back on my life, I’d say that that spur of the moment trip into the blue-hued mountains of Tennessee was one of those pivotal life changing events for me. Coincidentally, it was 24 years ago that he passed and I’m certain he never knew how much that scenic detour would affect his only son.

Today I’m living the motorcyclist’s dream. The Blue Ridge Parkway entrance is within 5 minutes out my door. It hasn’t changed much since the first time I experienced it 46 years ago although I have somewhat. And while there are dozens of curvaceous ribbons of perfectly paved asphalt within a few minutes

(and we have the hordes of seasonal leaf-peepers to prove it), most do NOT notice that there are just as many shades of greens and purples during the lush summer months. They seem to change colors as the day progresses. You just have to “see.” In the spring at certain altitudes there are wild flowers that smell like exotic perfumes which always triggers forgotten memories of past lovers. When the morning sun hits the perpetually wet, red granite walls just north of Craggy Gardens, the entire rock face looks like a mirror reflecting over the valley below. I’ve found a couple of hidden spots where thousands of colorful butterflies gather and dance to some secret ritualistic tune. They allow me to witness this end of life spectacle and I feel honored.

Our showroom is now open.

We are located directly across from the Cherry Hill Mall on Church Rd. • We have used cars in stock too.

Introducing the most fun you will have on a motorcycle

MOTORCYCLES - SCOOTERS - ATV

2012 GV250 Avg. 80 mpg Available in Black, Red, Orange or White

no Gas, no oil, no emissions -

0

Averages up to 114 miles per charge • 95¢ for a fully charged 9kw battery Charge time approx. 8 hours fully drained

We also carry Gerbing Heated Clothing and Olympia Apparel

OUTSTANDING QUALITY • 2 Year/12,000 Warranty Dress up your motorcycle with Hyosung accessories

919 Church Road • Cherry Hill, NJ • 856-482-5300 • www.Eckenhoff.com

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 37 PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

tHe FarkleBar

What do you do when you are both a long distance rider and also a computer geek? Sometimes it is necessary to create your own gadgets. Douglas Shonley was frustrated with the wiring mess on his bikes and was running out of places to mount his plethora of gadgets.

My favorite time of year on the parkway is late autumn. Specifically, there’s a one-week period just after the foliage has peaked and the strong winds begin their restless push through the area that the leaves reluctantly release their grip and float back to earth. From inside my helmet the light and color show of falling leaves interacting with sunlight is viscerally overwhelming. The indescribable beauty signaling nature’s seasonal finale and I’m lucky enough to have a front row seat. Even in the deadest of winter when the leaves (and traffic) are long gone and the light is waning in preparation for winter’s solstice, the parkway reveals an almost melancholy stoic beauty to those who are open to it. Few things can instantly send my mind back to our family gathering around a Christmas tree than coming around a corner at high altitude and getting hit with the cool, fresh scent of evergreens and wild poinsettia. Zero to 50 years ago in 1 second.

As you may have extrapolated by this seasoned rider’s feeble attempt at a verbally lyrical ode, the Blue Ridge Parkway is more than just a curvy road to me. It’s a 469-mile long bridge that spans my life. It has the power to transport my mind and body from my past to the present and ultimately into a hopeful future. It is the keeper of long forgotten moments and future memories. Ready to bestow them at any moment. Around any curve. Just on the other side of that upcoming tunnel. As I’m closing in on the 500,000-mile career milestone and no stranger to all the wonderful sights and great riding this country has to offer, I can honestly say the Blue Ridge Parkway is hands down my favorite ride and probably always will be. Thanks, Dad. “In the end, it’s not how many breaths you take, but how many moments take your breath away.” Anonymous philosopher Jerry Finley is owner/captain of Pirates’ Lair, specializing in exclusive motorcycle goodies. Check out his wit and wonderful offerings at www.pirateslair.net

Thus the creation of the FarkleBar. Using a single fused wire, hard wired to the battery, the FarkleBar assembly attaches to the handlebars via Ram Mounts. There are five power outlets that are controlled by a master switch and storage for excess cable from your chargers. This allows you to run your gadgets all-day and still have everything all charged. Also, the whole assembly can be removed in about one minute, so you don’t have to leave your valuable gadgets out on the bike overnight.

If you are an IronButt rider or just a rider that needs everything on his machine, the FarkleBar might be for you. It sells for $389 for the powder coat Black and $349 for the naked aluminum and can be ordered from farklebar.com or call them at (605) 347-5006 • Shonley Enterprises, 20745 Shonley Pl., Sturgis, SD 57785

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 38 ROAD TRIP

My English-to-French Dictionary Rides a BMW Robert Laford

I walked into another department where I worked one day and tossed a map of northern New England onto Gaetan’s desk. Gaetan is an engineer in our facilities department and although he has lived in the United States since he was a young man, he grew up in Quebec and still has a bit of a FrenchCanadian accent.

“Gaetan, I have use of a buddy’s camp in the woods of northern New Hampshire, just a few miles south of the Canadian border. I want to spend a couple of days riding in Quebec, and I bet you can tell me some good roads.” He opened the map and his eyes lit up, telling me about different roads, the town he grew up in, the views, the family still there, the food.

What a great ride I would have, he told me. Every time he pointed to the map it brought stories of past motorcycle rides, family, and hockey games.

“Do you want to come along,” I asked – and he was on his feet. “Are you serious?” I told him that my high school French could let me ask someone if they speak English and that’s about it. I figured he would be a great tour guide and a great interpreter. With a grin ear-to-ear he said he would think about it.

Left: Some great roads, villages and views in Quebec.

Right: New England country store, complete with trophies.

Opposite page: Motorcycle monument in New Hampshire and sunset and prediction for the next day’s ride.

Later that day we were in a meeting together and he told me that he would really like to go. Great, I thought, I’ve got my English-to-French dictionary all packed and he rides a BMW! I was able to secure a day more than Gaetan for our travels, so we agreed to meet in northern Vermont for our cooperative journey. A day of solo riding allows you time with your thoughts and to get you focused on your riding and not on work. Such a ride of solitude is good for your mental health – and it helps to refresh your spirit.

Leaving central Massachusetts I chose to head west on Massachusetts Route 2 through the Mohawk Trail in western Massachusetts and then up into Vermont. Each of these paths could be an article depicting a great motorcycle ride by themselves.

On my second day’s travel, I am the first to arrive at our coffee-spot rendezvous point in northern Vermont. When my riding partner pulls into the parking lot I can see the crinkles in the corners of his eyes inside his helmet and I know he is wearing the same smile I am. “Bonjour Gaetan!”

Our route takes us along Vermont Route 2. This road cuts a well-maintained swath East-West through Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine. With motorcycle-friendly curves, ascents, and descents the route offers us alternating views of fields, farms, and forests. Entering the fertile Connecticut River Valley, the White Mountains of New Hampshire appear before us and we notice the Green Mountains of Vermont standing in our rear-view mirrors.

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

These mountain ranges stand as sentries on either side of the river that divides their two states.

Each village is rich with character – and you know that you are in an authentic small town country store (complete with squeaky wooden floorboards) when there are trophy mounts of deer and bear along the wall above the dairy cooler; or you notice that the community bulletin board has a flyer from the local “Coon Club” for a wild game supper.

Climbing into the White Mountains we move away from the valley floor. If I did not know where we were I would not recognize that Mount Washington, with its 6,288 foot summit elevation, was just off our right flank. But today he is playing hide and seek with us behind the clouds. One section of today’s pleasant ride down into the Mount Washington Valley cuts through a forest grove of white birches. The contrast between the black-topped road and the green forest make the white trunks even more pronounced. As we bank around another sweeping curve, a mountain lake comes into view with the

Page 39 birch trees encircling the lake. The stark trunks highlight the early fall colors and are a mirror reflection off the lake for a picture perfect view.

All around us are clues of the not-sodistant winter. Numerous ski slopes, ice fishing shanties waiting to be deployed, snowmobiles at (almost) every doorstep, and evidence of the many sled trails that cross the roads, all show that this is an area that embraces the winter season. A Maine friend of mine once told me that they never cancel school because of snow. But if your sled won’t start, he said, it is an excused absence.

After rolling a few miles into Maine, we turn back towards the north woods of New Hampshire and climb into Maine’s Grafton Notch and New Hampshire’s Dixville Notch. As our altitude climbs the clouds again begin to close in and the filtered sun disappears from view. The stone ledges in the Dixville Notch appear like the crystal caves in the Superman movies and are an eerie sight in the clouds. Working our way back towards the Connecticut River we head for our night’s lodging in the woods of New Hampshire. As we approach our cabin, night begins to fall and we are treated to a beautiful sunset. We have spent a good part of the day in the clouds, but this is a clue that when we greet the new day it will be with sunshine.

The next morning, as we had hoped, we are met with blue skies and a bright sun. We leave our cabin, buried in the woods of New Hampshire, and

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 40

follow the Connecticut River byway towards the border with Quebec. Passing by the Connecticut Lakes our rolling route is shadowed by the tall thin pines at this early morning’s time. The Connecticut Lakes are the birthplace of their namesake’s river that flows to the sound and the Atlantic Ocean in Connecticut.

At the crossing into Canada, the border guard tells us that we have picked the right day – as the previous day saw temperatures in the single digits (Celsius). Today is already steadily climbing into the 50’s (F) and the sun feels wonderful.

Riding away from the border we are on a ridge that overlooks the deep valley below. We drop down the long straight descent into our first village in Quebec. With the green rolling hills with cattle and sheep grazing on the hillside, the small village with its white steepled church and wellkept homes and gardens, we could be riding through any similar village in Europe.

Our first stop is to have coffee with Gaetan’s cousin Rhea and her husband Evan.

Like any family greeting there are hugs, stories, and the quick jabbering of excited family who have not seen each other in some time. Since I don’t have a clue what is being said I smile and nod my head – while enjoying their hospitality and fresh baked sweets with our coffee.

Occasionally the laughter would subside and Gaetan would share a piece of the discussion. After one boisterous exchange he said that his cousin said that when she gets grumpy it means it is time to visit her son in Quebec City – and her husband responded that it was time for another visit. The home they have opened to us was the homestead of Evan’s parent’s farm. There are still pastures across the street, but the houses that dot

138 Orange Ave (Rt. 202) Suffern, NY 10901

845-357-1190 • www.locomotionpowersports.com

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 41

Left: Our cabin for the trip, view atop Du MontMegantic, and the Sanctuaire du Mont-Saint Joseph.

This page: Road up to Mont-Megantic and our overly satisfying lunch including Poutine with gravy.

the neighborhood on the former farmland are those of his brothers and sisters and other extended family rather than the crops and livestock of a past generation.

Back on the road, one pleasant surprise is the light traffic along our roller coaster-like route. We climb towards the clouds, have a quick pass over the top, and dive into the valley below. At each crest we can see the road stretching further for several miles towards the mountain range ahead of us.

We take a detour from our planned route to visit the Parc National Du Mont-Megantic. At the visitor’s center Gaetan speaks fluent French with the attendant selling tickets up the mountain road. When they finish she hands us brochures and I ask Gaetan if “he got all that!” With a broad smile the lady behind the counter asked me if I would like the English version of the brochure. “Merci,” I replied.

Climbing the summit road we enjoyed the switchbacks and very steep

climb to its 3,600 foot summit. The views on this perfect day were spectacular as we could see around Quebec and also into Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire. From the summit’s observatory we can see fall colors more prominently in the woodlands before us more than we did during yesterday’s travels in Vermont and New Hampshire. The view from the mountaintop gives a global picture of the countryside with its towns and farms below. The spires of the churches rise above the tree line announcing each village’s existence to us.

Partway back down the mountain road we take another that climbs to a second summit at du MontSaint-Joseph at 3,500 feet in elevation. This sister mountain adjacent to Mont-Megantic is home to a small chapel called la Sanctuaire du Mont-SaintJoseph. The shrine was built in the 1880’s as a pilgrimage site to those colonizing the region. Gaetan tells me that his great-grandfather helped build the chapel.

Back onto our planned route we have another family stop with Gaetan’s elderly aunt Helene. She is elderly in years only, not in spirit or energy. She greets us with hugs and fast French that Gaetan absorbs as both of them rattle on and on with their arms and hands gesturing throughout the conversation. Helene brings out some pictures to show us her summer travels to other parts of Canada.

My riding partner has made a point to tell me that he is really enjoying practicing his French. At one point while talking to his aunt they stopped talking, stared at me, and burst out laughing. He said he told her to stop talking and look and me and laugh and I would think they were telling a story about me! Well Gaetan, your French is fine, you can stop practicing now!

Every time we stop, the hospitality is wonderful, but everyone wants to feed us. We argue against more food on this visit as the bikes won’t be able to climb more mountains if we keep packing on the calories. One culinary

Take to the streets on KTM’s 990 Supermoto T

210 Route 10 West • East Hanover, NJ www.HanoverPowersports.com • 973-428-1735

Your local source for KTM motorcycles

Off-road • Street • Adventure Sales and Service

Go See the Pros that Know How to Ride!

5.99 % Fin

an Avai cing lable *

Get a little dirty on KTM’s 990 Adventure

Hit the track on KTM’s RC8 R

KTM’s 690 Enduro R

*Offer is subject to credit approval by GE Money Bank. Customers not qualifying for 5.99% APR may be approved for other promotional rates. Applies to purchases on all new 2012 and prior KTM Models of $2,500 or more. Rates of 5.99%, 7.99%, and 9.99% will be assigned based on credit approval criteria. Please see your KTM dealer for further details.

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 42 staple that we must have as we pass through the area, however, is some Poutine. Poutine is French fries topped with fresh cheese curds and covered with brown gravy. We do make a stop at a mom and pop diner during our travels and find that their specialty was to add a bit of BBQ sauce to the gravy as well. It was really good but I could feel my cholesterol jump 30 points while I was eating it!

Our stop for lunch is along our scenic ride by Lake Mégantic. Along the lake shore the town is having a festival of sorts. It appears to be sponsored by Can-Am and there are ATV’s everywhere. All the businesses have the fourwheelers in their parking lots and the vehicles are moving in and out and along with traffic. It appears to be a common occurrence. After lunch we take a few minute to let our food settle and to waddle a bit around the vendor tents at the ATV fair and around the waterfront in an attempt to get some exercise after having all the treats we have eaten today.

As riders we know that riding a motorcycle is a conversation starter and people stop to talk to you when you are parked with your bike. Being in Quebec is no different. But I found that when they did stop to talk it always seemed coincidental that my riding partner, with his fluid French, was not standing next to me to translate! Using my one year of high school French I knew enough to say, “Parle tu Englais?” And only once was the answer, “Non.” Everyone we met was friendly and willing to talk to us even if our conversations we part English, part French, and part hand signs.

Signage, I found, was pretty user friendly. I was able to decipher the men’s and ladies’ rooms signs pretty readily and most menu interpretations got me fed OK. Road signs are for the most part universal. The STOP sign octagon is the same (and red) and even though it says ARRET, I knew what it meant.

A few traffic signs took a couple of seconds to comprehend what they actually wanted me to do, and “Risque de Collision” does sound more formal than our “Deer Crossing.”

The horizontal traffic lights have always intrigued me. A number of years ago, the first one I encountered, was when my wife said, “I think you just went through a red light.”

Back on the road we change directions and head northwest away from the mountain range. In our mirrors the road looks like a straight mountain pass cut through the trees. The views around us now go back to the open rolling pastures and farmlands. Sometimes the fields have peaceful inhabitants grazing in the afternoon sunlight and sometimes it is the crops or the farmers themselves that catch our view.

A local farmer at home told me that the hay crop is one beneficiary to the exceptionally dry summer we have been experiencing this year. He said those that harvest hay as a crop, have been able to garner a very unusual third “cutting” this year. This fact has been evident throughout our trip as we have seen hundreds of white “shrink-wrapped” rolls of hay in the fields and stacked near the farmers’ barns throughout New England and Quebec.

Our day is starting to wane, and as the afternoon sun is dropping lower in the sky we must look back to the border and our New Hampshire accommodations. The plan is that we want to be back to our cabin and off the road before dusk, because as you know, the “risqué de collision” increases as we approach sunset. It is time to say au revoir to the people and places we have enjoyed on this day’s ride in Quebec. We have found some exceptional views and roads along the way. And I must also say, “Merci,” to my riding partner, tour guide, and interpreter for his companionship as well.

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH AND DINNER STARTING MAY 1ST

Serving Lunch and Dinner 12 Noon to 10 pm • Bar Open Later Member of

Take a ride on one of the Northeast’s Scenic Byways Route 97 - 20 miles north of Port Jervis. Dine with your fellow riders on the Delaware River.

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Tajikistan

Page 43

D

An adventure rider’s paradise Elias Vrohidis

o you enjoy remote, almost uninhabited mountains which offer some worldclass off-road riding in jaw-dropping landscapes? Then, Tajikistan is for you.

I think asking an overlander which is his favorite country is an awkward question. However, I face it often and when they force me to name a country, my reply is “Tajikistan”. I know it would take some time for most people to find it on the map but that’s part of its charm.

When I was entering Tajikistan on my humble Honda XR 250S, I was already on the roads of Asia for more than 15 months, having spent some of them in other ex-Soviet countries. That means I was already fed up with the extreme bureaucracy and corruption in Central Asia.

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 44

The first sight of mountains After crossing the borders, amazing landscapes were revealed to me. It wasn’t long before I started ascending on the gorgeous mountains, which was something I was waiting for. First stop was at Iskander Lake at 7,200 feet altitude. I couldn’t resist the call of that light-blue water, so I jumped in, despite it was freezing cold.

Above: Iskander Lake at 7,200 ft. altitude.

Left: Removing the windscreen for the hundreds of miles of off-road riding ahead.

Right: No matter the age, the roads must be fixed and the Panschshanbe bazaar in Khojand.

The road to Dushanbe, the capital, was climbing to 11,083 feet. A big part of it was still a dirt road with great vistas, so I was enjoying the ride a lot. Unfortunately, it wouldn’t stay this way for a long time. Chinese workers were paving the road. At some point they had stopped the traffic in order to complete their work. A huge line of trucks had formed and it was looking they were waiting there for a long time, since some truck drivers had taken a nap! Happily, with the workers’ help I could pass my motorbike over the rocks at the edge of the road.

Dine in History Circa 1746 Lunch and dinner specials daily

The perfect stop on the perfect ride.

Dine inside or on the balcony.

Group seating available.

Featured in the Great All American Diner Run Moto-Inn Member On the square in Schaefferstown, where history, good times and great food come together.

101 N. Market St Schaefferstown, PA 717-949-2122 FranklinHouseTavern.com

A local child was trying to tell me something about a tunnel on my way, but I couldn’t understand him.

Later on, I was in that 3.5mile tunnel, which was still under construction.

“Tunnel” is a wrong name for it. It should be called an underground, dark river… There were no lights at all and it was flooded with water deeper than 2 feet at some points.

The tiny lights of my motorbike were useless there.

I couldn’t see the bottom, anyway. I was just trying to ride straight in the dark and keep the motorbike upright despite hitting rocks and deep potholes I couldn’t see under the water.

While I was riding in deep water, the engine turned off! That was the last thing I wanted at that time… The engine wouldn’t start and I had to push my heavy-loaded bike in that dark river. It was a nightmare! Happily, I started the engine five minutes later but this problem in deep water happened two more times. It wasn’t normal. I had crossed deeper rivers and everything was fine. I realized the 35,000 tough miles in Asia had taken their toll on the engine. I was very happy when after some time I escaped that horrible “tunnel”.

I noticed I was wet to the bone but that was the least of my worries.

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

The capital

Dushanbe is a city with a population of 600,000. It is considered Central Asia’s best-looking capital, especially now that the bullet holes from the recent civil war have been plastered over.

I was very lucky to find a cheap Chinese battery for my small motorbike in a capital city where I saw only half-a-dozen bikes during my one-week stay there. Motorcycles are very rare in Central Asia and that makes it more difficult for a biker, since finding spare parts – even tires – is almost impossible.

Heading for some fresh air

Having my bike ready for the mountains, I hit the road once again. I removed the wind-screen, since I would ride some hundreds of miles off-road. I was traveling for days next to Afghanistan. It was, actually, on the other side of the river. There, I met dozens of illegal immigrants. They were some camels which crossed the river without having a valid visa. It was the second time I met Bactrian camels in Asia. They were the main

Page 45

Top left to right: Riding the border of Afghanistan Illegal immigrant • Impressive medieval Yamchun Fort Left: Exploring Sumantash Valley

means of transport on the Silk Road but there are very few of this kind nowadays.

The Wakhan Valley and the many side valleys were a nice detour I made. There was almost none of that ugly grey thing called “tarmac” and the nature was wild and pure. I visited the impressive medieval Yamchun Fort and then I camped somewhere around. Wildcamping is what I like most during my trips and Central Asia is a paradise for that, so I was very rarely spending a night in a hotel.

Sumantash Valley

I was looking for Sumantash Valley but the network of dirt roads was very confusing. After much searching, I descended a steep track full of moving stones and finally, I was there. It was at those stones where I broke the metal protection at the front side of my boot, saving the bike from falling down.

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 46 I camped for two days in that heavenly valley and I explored its ancient ruins, some of which are 4000 years old. This was an important trade route, obviously.

There is a natural hot spring nearby but if somebody wants to reach it, he must first cross the cold deep river.

When it was time to leave, I had to climb that steep stony slope. The problem was that the diaphragm of my bike’s carburetor was destroyed from my time in India, a few months ago. That meant the bike had no power in steep dirt tracks and I had to push it. Happily, I met a traveler who helped me, but still I needed half an hour lying on the ground to recover after that. I couldn’t control even my legs and it took me some time to lower my breathing rate on that high altitude. I was absolutely exhausted.

The fuel

When I made my way through the dirt roads to Alichur village, I asked some guys about fuel. They took me in a house and they brought a dirty can of petrol. That’s the only way somebody can fill fuel on the mountains of Central Asia. In Tajikistan the petrol usually comes in three grades: 92, 80

and 73 octane. It goes without saying that the only grade of petrol which is available on the mountains is the 73 octane. My bike was still able to run on this fuel but when I was on altitudes higher than 11,000 feet it was difficult to start the engine in the morning.

The Pamir Highway

Don’t be fooled. It doesn’t remind you at all of the highways you know. I guess, instead of “high speed way”, it means “high altitude way”. It is a narrow two-lane road constructed by the Soviets in 1934 on Pamir Mountains. It was made to help transfer the army and their supplies to this strategic Southern end of the Soviet Union. Almost the whole road is paved and the altitude varies from 10,000 to 15,273 feet.

The Pamir Highway was ‘too’ paved for me and kind of boring. So, I made another detour through Jarty Gumbaz to enjoy the scenery around Zor Lake.

I was riding for hours on a stony dirt road until I reached a couple of yurts.

Those are the tents which nomads in these regions use, made out of wood, grass, animal skin and fat. I asked them for directions and they invited me for lunch. After showing me their yurts and how they survive there, I found my way towards the scenic lakes.

aIRPORT PUb & PaCKaGE Sussex NJ County Rd 639 • Next to the Airport Open 7 Days • 973-702-1215 We have New Jersey Lottery & Scratch Offs We accept cash, credit cards & ATM on premise

WE’RE LOCATED iN SCENiC SUSSEx COUNTY A POPULAR NEighBORhOOD PUB

FRiENDLY SERViCE • iCE COLD BEER AND ALWAYS SOMEThiNg TO DO…

ENJOY THE RIDE Stop by and We’re Sure to Become One of Your Favorite Stops

Wednesday is Bike Night Free BBQ & Jukebox

Meet Old Friends & Make New Ones

TWO POOL TABLES • JUkE BOx • DARTS OUTDOOR SEATiNg FACiNg ThE AiRPORT “WATCh ThE SkY DiVERS”

PLUS … WE SERvE a SImPLE PUb mENU

SUPPORT OUR TROOPS

FREE BBQ EVERY SUNDAY You Cook ‘Em Burgers and Dogs

Clockwise top: Getting the bike out of the Sumantash Valley with consequences.

Getting fuel in the mountains of Central Asia and camping on Zor Lake.

Yurts of the nomads and the family that took me in.

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 47

Ak-Baital Pass (15,273 feet)

Back on the “highway”, I had to cross the Ak-Baital Pass. It was still 2,309 feet lower than Khardung Pass, which I had crossed in the Indian Himalayas and is widely, although incorrectly, considered the highest motorable road in the world. I was worried about the diaphragm of the carburetor. Happily, the ascent was not so steep and I didn’t need to push the bike again, although its top speed dropped to 11 miles per hour.

Clockwise bottom: Doneyor from the Bulunkul village Local women from Wakhan Valley Semi-nomadic people of Central Asia moving their herds for summer months Making due with a broken ball-bearing

The disaster…

A little bit later, I left behind the tarmac to enjoy another offroad ride, this time to Kok Jar. On the way back, I faced the worst mechanical fault which I ever faced during my journey.

The left ball-bearing on the rear wheel broke down. I should expect it, since it was never replaced after more than 65,000 miles that the bike had covered. If this happens in a city where you can find spare parts, it’s easy to fix it. However, it happened to me when I was in the middle of nowhere, 52 miles away from the “highway”, having crossed a few landslides, a river, some mud and sand. It goes without saying that there wasn’t any human being for miles.

So, the only choice I had was to install the wheel on the bike again and continue without a ball-bearing. I removed the brake caliper and brake disc, because the wheel was not turning straight, obviously. After only 6 miles the wheel hub was broken in two pieces and there was a big hole on it. Despite that, I was still able to ride the bike. I was moving very slowly (10-15 mph) and I could only cover about 70 miles per day. I should reach the nearest town, which was in Kyrgyzstan, 260 miles away. It was looking almost impossible…

Watch for the futher adventures of Elias in future issues of Backroads. To see more of what the Mad Nomad is about, visit his website: http://madnomad.gr

Ironhorse Motorcycle Lodge is the Smoky Mountains Premier ‘Motorcycle-only’ resort.

Located in the heart of the Smoky Mountains and minutes from all the great motorcycling roads like ‘Tail of the Dragon’, Cherohalla Skyway, Blue Ridge Parkway and Moonshiner 28. Amenities include on-premise restaurant for breakfast and dinner with creekside dining, covered bike parking, nightly group campfire, laundry, gift shop and WiFi DSL HotSpot. We have a pavilion with multimedia entertainment, private function meeting room, RV sites as well as rustic luxury cabins cabin rooms, bunkhouse and tent camping.

Perfect for singles, couples or group getaways.

Located in Stecoah, NC • 828-479-3864 • www.ironhorseNC.com

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 48

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE

Campbell House Bed & Breakfast

Adult Getaway to Enjoy Today and Remember Forever.

We are always striving to be the Best Little Bed & Breakfast in Ligonier and the Laurel Highlands. www.campbellhousebnb.com Member

305 East Main St Ligonier, PA 15658 888-238-9812

Concours™ 14

179 North Highland Ave/Rte 9 • Ossining, NY 10562 • 914-762-2722

www.hudsonvalleymotorcycles.com

KAWASAKI CARES: Always wear a helmet, eye protection, and proper apparel. Never ride under the influence of drugs or alcohol. Adhere to the maintenance schedule in your owner’s manual. Professional rider shown on closed course. ©2011 Kawasaki Motors Corp., U.S.A.

ALL THAT GOOD STUFF

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 49

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE Worth the ride from anywhere!

Sharing your passion for good food since 1983 Member of

Join Us for 1st Friday Celebration 1st Friday of each month from 6 to 9pm Live Music • Dinner Specials 320 Front Street, Belvidere, NJ • 908-475-2274 • www.thisilldous.com

Open Daily for Breakfast and Beyond • 7am to 4pm • Sunday 7am to 1pm Try our Full Throttle Breakfast Special every Saturday + Sunday

ALL THAT GOOD STUFF

The Riverton

Travel along the scenic backroads of the Delaware river.

Meet the Markopoulos family and taste chef George’s Greek American cooking.

Best bar menu, lunch or dinner.

Fresh poppers, perogies, calamari, clams and crispy wings with 8 different sauces.

Tues. thru Sat. 11am-10pm Sunday: Breakfast 9am-Noon Lunch and Dinner served until 9pm

John, Christina, chef George and Eoanna welcome you and your friends.

The Riverton Hotel and Restaurant

Member of

At Belvidere-Riverton Free Bridge, Riverton, PA

610-498-4241 • www.rivertonhotel.com

Ask about our Diners Club.

Gift Cards available.

‘50s-Style Drive-In Restaurant Full and Varied Menu Room for the Whole Gang

BIKE NIGHT IS BACK AT

SERVING BREAKFAST & LUNCH • TUES.-SUN. 7AM~3PM

GREAT FOOD • GOOD TIMES • EXCELLENT RIDING

Daily specialty items including burgers, homemade soup & pastries

Located at Ross’ Corners • 1 Route 15 • Augusta NJ • 973-300-2300

Route 739 ~ just south of Milford Rd ~ Dingmans Ferry, PA

THE CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN www.chatterboxdrivein.com

The Charlesworth Hotel is New Jersey’s REAL backroads’ hideaway

THE Place to go when you REALLY want to Disappear

ining tic D n a Rom

Home of the BEST sunset on the Jersey Shore

New Jersey Avenue • Fortescue, NJ • 856-447-4928

lley’s Hudson Va ne Riding Number O t Restauran e u q e b r a B W North 1076 Route 9 mery, NY Fort Montgo

845-446-0912 rmerbbq.com www.barnsto

570.828.1920 • www.forkliftcafe.com

…your personal heaven on earth!

Located in Arden, only 15 minutes from Philippi, on the beautiful Tygart River in West Virginia, our bed & breakfast is the perfect place to call home while exploring the Mountain state.

Comfortable Rooms

oute 9W icturesque R Located on P rive D s n Perki minutes from k ar P te Sta and Harriman oint P t es historic W f o th u so st ju

OPEN FOR DINNER • THURSDAY - SATURDAY 5~9PM

Celebrate the Holidays with some awesome barbeque!

If you go home hungry it’s your own fault

Rates from $70 - $90 per night

866.909.4262

www.AngelBandFarm.com Box 696 • North River Road • Philippi, WV 26416

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 50

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE

ALL THAT GOOD STUFF

WASHINGTON CYCLE WORKS HONEST • DLY • AFF N E OR RI F DA • BL T S E FA

We cater to road racers and support all Track Day organizations Check us for Suspension Setups • One-piece Road Race suits in stock

WCW

www.washingtoncycleworks.com

Washington Cycle Works

Junction of Rtes. 57/31 • Washington, NJ 07882

908-835-0043 Closed Sun-Mon • Open: Tues-Thurs 9:30AM-7PM • Fri 9:30AM-6PM • Sat 9AM-3PM

If you didn’t like cool stuff, you wouldn’t be reading this magazine.

Here’s something you’re going to love.

TORQ-IT Screwdriver/Speed Wrench/ Palm Ratchet All In One Tool Variable Speeds Over 600RPM Low Profile, with an “Ergo” Grip and a Non-Slip Design Accepts All 3/8” and 1/4” Sockets and Extensions

BASIC SET: $19.95 • DELUXE SET: $29.95 • ACCESORY SET: $9.95

Motorcycle Repair

324 East 95th Street New York, NY 10128

Harley-Davidson European and Japanese

917-492-1573 speedmotorcycles@verizon.net

www.speedmotorcyclesnyc.com

RIDE LIKE A PRO NJ Jerry ‘Motorman’ Palladino’s Training Classes Being Held in New Jersey ‘NEVER

FEAR making a U-turn or dropping your 800lb. motorcycle again’

• Male-Female-Big-Small: It doesn’t matter • You can learn the 3 simple techniques that motor cops have been using for years • Our instructors - all active or retired motor officers - will show you how to use the motor cop riding techniques to better control and handle your motorcycle

TORQ-IT PRODUCTS, INC. 1701 Manor Road • Havertown PA 19083 Tel: 1.888.876.9555 • Visit Our New Website: WWW.TORQ-IT.COM

Check our website for available dates

www.RideLikeAProNJ.com Pre-registration is recommended as classes fill quickly.

Gift certificates available • Course Fee is $150.00

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 51

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE

ALL THAT GOOD STUFF

Ye Olde Landmark Tavern 5 Spacious Rooms starting at $90.00 Tavern and Dining Room Menu Serving Hours: Mon-Thurs: 5-9pm Fri-Sat: 5-9:30pm Sunday: 1-8pm Seasonal April ~ December Member of

Featured in ‘We’re Outta Here’ Sept. 2011 In the heart of great riding • Between Syracuse and Utica

Cooperstown • Finger Lakes • State Forests

Route 20, Bouckville, NY • 315-893-1810 • www.yeoldelandmark.com

CROSSROADS BED AND BREAKFAST Come stay and ride with us. Our location, at the intersection of Routes 7 and 17 in Central Vermont, is just minutes away from four of Vermont’s famous gaps, with direct access to the Adirondacks

802-453-5958 www.crossroadsbb.net

4571 Ethan Allen Pkwy Route 7 New Haven, VT

The Boat House Restaurant Join us for Brunch, Lunch or Dinner overlooking Swartswood Lake

Member

Excellent Ride Destination Tuesday ~ Sunday 11am-9pm Brunch 10am-2pm • Closed Mondays Our Deck is Open for the Season 1040 Cty Rd 521 • Swartswood, NJ 973-300-0016

www.theboathouserestaurantonline.com

L S P E C IA B IK E R RATES

The Runway Cafe at the Blairstown Airport

36 Lambert Road • Blairstown, NJ

GREAT Food Roads Destination

908.362.9170 Get BACKROADS delivered to your home EVERY MONTH! Just fill out the simple form and mail it along with your check (gotta pay the Postman): BACKROADS • POB 317 • BRANCHVILLE NJ 07826 NAME ____________________________________________________ ADDRESS ________________________________________________

SUBSCRIPTION FORM First Class $40/Year • Comes in envelope

CITY/STATE/ZIP ____________________________________________

Don’t Miss an Issue! Mail your Subscription TODAY!

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 52

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE

Come Ride the Dragon Deals Gap

MOTORCYCLE TRAILERS DAYTONA, BIKETOBERFEST, STURGIS AND BEYOND

BARN TRAILERS

SALES 718-426-7039 • www.barntruckrental.com RENTALS 57-05 BROADWAY • WOODSIDE NY 11377 (OFF THE BQE & LIE)

318 Curves in 11 Miles

www.dealsgap.com

www.stopngo.com

800.889.5550

The Best Tire Repair.

Know Before You Go! 800-747-0238

17548 Tapoco Road • Robbinsville, North Carolina 28771

Sussex Hills Ltd.

Specializing in Motorcycle Repair, Parts & Supplies • Cycle Tires Mounted & Balanced • Batteries & Hard

Now stocking a full line of heated gear Get ready for some cool riding.

Parts • Dynojet 250 Dyno available for testing

973-875-2048 946 Rte. 23 South Sussex NJ 07461

3 miles north of Sussex Borough

American • Metric • Sport • Parts & Accessories • Award-winning Service • Performance Work • Dyno Tuning • S&S Pro Tuning Center • Power Commander Tuning Center

JDS CYCLE PARTS EST. 1988 247 W. Westfield Ave, Rosell Park, NJ

908-245-2445

THINK YOUR AD WOULD LOOK GOOD HERE? SO DO WE. PRINT ADS TRANSLATE TO FREE ONLINE ADS. CALL FOR DETAILS…973-948-4176

Norman Gross Since 1976 Our Reputation Speaks for Itself

For All Your Harley-Davidson Needs

GenMar HANDLEBAR RISERS

KAWASAKI • HONDA • YAMAHA • SUZUKI • TRIUMPH • MOTO GUZZI • ETC Raise your handlebars for a more comfortable ride and still retain stock look.

From $59.95 to $139.95 Order Toll Free (877) 471-1515 Info and Fax (505) 743-2243 • www.zianet.com/GenMar

Gen Mar Mfg. Inc. • 110 1st Street • HC1 Box 35 • Arrey, NM 87930

www.beemerboneyard.com USED OILHEAD & K-BIKE PARTS Hundreds of used parts at 50% off new cost or less Order online 24/7 ~ M/C, Visa, Discover or PayPal 100% money-back guarantee ~ parts ship in 24 hours

N EW MAINTENANCE PART ~ BELOW RETAIL No Backorders ~ We Stock What We Sell We now carry German Liqui-Moly Engine & Gear Oil for BMWs

973-775-3495 • M-F 12pm~5pm • inquires@beemerboneyard.com

BACKROADS FALL FIESTA HAS BEEN ANNOUNCED • SEPTEMBER 27 - 30, 2012 FOR ALL THE DETAILS SEE PAGE 62

Deals Gap Store • Motel Bar and Grill

ALL THAT GOOD STUFF

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 53

UPCOM IN G EVENTS CAL ENDAR E V E RY M O N T H - W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G Every Sunday • Eastern Suffolk ABATE Breakfast Run. Crossroads Diner - Calverton NY. 10:30am. Eat and Ride After • 631-369-2221 First Sunday of the month • Layton Meet at the Layton Deli, corner of Dingmans/Bevans Rd, CR 560, Layton, NJ. Meet around 8am – breakfast available. Join others for a ride or head out on your own

What’s Happening 7-10 • New England MotoMarathon. Re-defining motorcycle sport-touring. It’s about riding as many twisties as possible, over four full days. Routes are kept secret until the night before each event. Through a series of self-recorded checkpoints, riders verify completion at the end of each day’s ride. $50 registration. Sign in: June 6 @ 7pm. Comfort Suites/Holiday Inn, 89 Mill Plain Rd, Danbury, CT • 203-205-0800. Get more info here: www.motomarathon.com

Third Tuesday • 7:30pm ABATE of the Garden State, North Jersey chapter. Black River Barn, 1178 Rt. 10 West, Randolph, NJ. 7:30pm. New members and all mc brands welcome. Help fight for rights as a motorcyclist in NJ! Alex Martinez 973-390-1918

9-10 • Rock, Ribs and Ridges Festival at Hidden Valley, Vernon, NJ. Musical guests include Dickey Betts of the Allman Brothers and Artimus Pyle of Lynyrd Skynyrd, Molly Hatchet, New Riders of the Purple Sage, the Georgia Satellites, Citizens Band Radio and Cabinet.

Two-day celebration of great music and finger lickin’ good food with a Juried Rib Cookoff. General admission $40 at gate, VIP $69, two-day passes available. For more info visit www.rockribsandridges.com

Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-In, Rtes. 15/206, Augusta, NJ. Tire kicking, good food and friends • www.chatterboxdrivein.com

9-17 • 89th Annual Laconia Bike Week - one of the Big Three! Lake Weir, New Hampshire.

For all the information visit www.LaconiaMCWeek.com

MAY

15-16 • Cross Country BMW Demo Truck Event. 911 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ • 732635-0094 • www.ccbmw.com

Every Tuesday • The Ear - Spring St, NYC. Come meet some fellow riders and do some benchracing or whatever. 8pm-ish

26 • ACE Motorworks Open House & Demo Day. 154 Cooper Rd #102, West Berlin, NJ •856-809-9990 • www.acetrike.com

JUNE 2 • Orange County Choppers Ride to Benefit Carly Fund. Start/Finish: 14 Crossroads Ct, Newburgh, NY. Sign in: 9am • Ride leaves: 10am. $25/rider; $40/two-up. 60-mile route through scenic Hudson Valley. More info: www.orangecountychoppers.com 3 • Bergen County Harley-Davidson sponsors Fort Lee Art & Music Festival Ride-In Bike Show. Free registration (in by 11am) Bikes in by 12:30; Awards by 3:30pm. Municipal Parking Lot, Fort Lee, NJ. Food, music and more • 201-843-6930 ext. 133 4 • 7am-5pm • Bob’s BMW is hosting a day at the track with Motorcycle Xcitement for all the speed junkies out there! We want ALL brands to join us—it gives the S1000RR more bragging rights! Our staff and any friends you bring with you will cheer you on trackside under Bob’s VIP hospitality tent. Lunch, snacks, beverages, on-site techs for your mechanical convenience, and more will be included in this unforgettable day!

Learn from professionals and then put your new skills to the pavement in a safe environment. Spread the word, plan ahead, and mark your calendar TODAY. Registration forms and details regarding orientation available at bobsbmw.com 5-9 • 30th Annual Americade - the world’s largest touring rally. Lake George, NY. If you’ve never been, now’s the time to go; if you have we’ll see you again this year. For everything you’ll need to know visit www.americade.com

15–17 • 3rd Annual Festival of Sidecars at the New Hampshire Motor Speedway in Loudon, NH. Hosted by the Sidecar Racers Association (SRA) in conjunction with the Loudon Classic. Modern and Vintage classes races all three days with trophies awarded.

Spectators: $25 grandstand entry/$50 pit entry. Camping available $25/site with electric/water. Other lodging available nearby. A parade lap for spectators with sidecars is scheduled for Saturday at lunch time. A fee of $15 per outfit will be charged. For more information contact www.nhms.com or contact Jim Laura at 603-227-9700 or email aqital@hotmail.com 16 • 9am-4pm • Bob's BMW Sport Bike Day. Riders of ALL brands are encouraged to wash and detail your pride and joy, ride to Bob’s, and show off what you’ve got! Enjoy great food while you visit, see the 2012 S1000RR up close and learn about all the new updates and features, get entered to win great prizes, plus more to be announced! 10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD • 800-269-2627 • www.BobsBMW.com 16 • Bergen County Harley-Davidson Father’s Day Bikini Bike Wash. $5 wash donated to Disabled American Veterans. Join the ladies of Lenora’s in Hackensack from Noon to 3:30pm with Free BBQ and music • 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenharleydavidson.com 18 • Ride to Work Day • www.RideToWork.org 18 • Morton’s BMW off-road motorcycle training, with basic training and more challenging for those with advanced skills. $75 includes lunch. For more information and to register please visit www.mortonsbmw.com or call 540-891-9844 • 5099A Jefferson Davis Hwy, Fredericksburg, VA

25th Annual GOOCH’S GARLIC RUN™ presented by Blue Knights® NJ IX

Wednesday, June 20 Rain date June 27

Destination Newark’s Ironbound District

Music Vendors Great Food

Motorcycle Event that Benefits Local Children’s Charities Start: Rockaway Townsquare Mall I-80 Exit 35/Mt. Hope Ave, Rockaway, NJ Sign in starts 4:30pm • Run leaves 6:30pm SHARP! Pre-Registration: $15/motorcycle by June 13 • $20 day of event

PRE-REGISTRATION STRONGLY RECOMMENDED For more information and pre-registration form visit:

www.bknjix.org

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 54 21-24 • 15th Annual Thunder in the Valley presented by Johnstown Convention and Visitors Bureau. Johnstown, PA. More details: www.JohnstownThunder.com 23 • 1st Annual Ride for Nicholas. Sign in: Kosco Harley-Davidson, 1149 Route 23 S, Kinnelon, NJ • 9-10:45am; Ride leaves 11am. $30/Rider;$20/Passenger. 50-mile fully-escorted ride includes food, soda, beer, live bands and more. Endsite: Mountain Rest, 17 Wooley Rd, W. Milford, NJ. Nicholas Hahn is a 9-year old boy diagnosed with an aggressive form of leukemia called Burkitts. All proceeds will go to the family. 201-213-2664 • ridefornicholas@gmail.com 23 • Art of the Bike presents 3rd annual Classic Bikes and Blues. Music, vintage bikes, food and art. 10am-5pm • Tinicum Park, Erwinna, PA. Raindate: June 24. For more info visit www.artofthebike.com 24 • NJ Chapter VII Blue Knights benefit ride for Shriners Hospital-Livingston. Sign in: 910:30; ride leaves 11am from Salaam Temple, 369 E. Mt. Pleasant Ave/Rte. 10, Livingston, NJ. $20/rider; $10/pass. incl. breakfast, lunch and great ride. • 973-951-5011 24 • 4th Annual Poker Run to bemefit Multiple Sclerosis. Sign in: Baer Sports Center, 330 Grandview Ave, Honesdale, PA or Harmony Lodge #8, 519 Rte. 206, Andover Twp, NJ btw 9am-Noon. $20/pp incl. pin or patch, poker hand, raffles, 50/50, vendors, ive music by Big Boss Sausauge and others. Endsite: Mt. Haven, 106 Mt. Haven Dr, Milford, PA. For more info call 570-253-2000 or 570-686-2917 30 • Cross Country BMW hosts Teach McNeil Stunt Show, one of the best stunt riders in the country. 911 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ • 732-635-0094 • www.ccbmw.com

JULY 13 • Cross Country Cycles Sea-Doo weekend Demo Event. Check Cross Country website for details and location. 911 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ • 732-635-0094 • www.canammetuchen.com 14-15 • 36th Annual Ramapo 500. Weekend Motorcycle Tour Classic. Sign in 7-9am (see website for address). $35/pre-reg riders;$48 at the door incl. self-guided tour directions, dinner Saturday, free camping, awards, prizes, breakfast Sunday, commemorative starter’s pin and finisher’s patch. AMA Sanctioned. For more info visit www.ramapomc.org or call 914-422-1806 July 19-22 • 40th BMW MOA International Rally. State Fairgrounds, Sedalia, MO. Five of the exhibitor buildings, the beer garden building, closing ceremonies arena, seminar rooms, and several of the on-site restaurants are air conditioned. The RV camping spaces have full service hook-ups and all of the fairground roads are paved. For full details visit www.bmwmoa.org.

28 • 11am-1pm • Bob’s BMW hosts Edelweiss Bike Travel to provide you with all the information you need to make your dreams come true! Bob’s is bringing the experts in guided motorcycle tours to you so come prepared with all your questions. Learn the basics of world travel by bike, plus specific benefits of traveling with Edelweiss • www.BobsBMW.com. 10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD • 800-269-2627 28 • Cross Country Cycle Bikini Bike Wash. 911 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ • 732-6350094 • www.crosscountrycycle.com

AUGUST 10-12 • 35th Annual Daniel Boone Rally sponsored by Carolinas BMW MOA. Boone, NC campgrounds. $40 rally fee includes camping and donuts/coffee both days, BBQ Saturday, rally pin (first 200), 5 door prize tix and many extras • www.carolinasbmwmoa.org 12-19 • Backroads Magazine Ireland Tour with Celtic Riders. Spend 8 days, 7 nights touring the Emerald Isle. This will be a self-guided tour with accommodations and route set. Book early as motorcycle availability is limited. For full details please visit www.celticriders.ie and see the 8-day tour. Hope you can join us.

SEPTEMBER 13-16 • 15th Catskill Mountain Thunder. Weekend filled with stunt shows, vendor expo, bike build off, bike show with cash prizes, pig roast, fireworks, free demo rides, live music throughout the weekend and so much more. For full details please visit the website: www.catskillmountainthunder.com or call 518-634-2541 • 348 Sunside Rd, East Durham, NY. 13-16 • Empire State Motomarathon. It’s about riding as many twisties as possible, over four full days. Routes are kept secret until the night before each event. Through a series of self-recorded checkpoints, riders verify completion at the end of each day’s ride. $50 registration. Sign in: Sept. 12 @ 8pm. Quality Inn, 849 Rte. 52, Fishkill, NY • 845-8979300. Get more info here: www.motomarathon.com 16 • Dangerous Curvz Ride to Break the Silence on Ovarian Cancer. Start/End: Tramontin Harley-Davidson, Hope, NJ. Sign in: 9:30am • Ride: 11am. $20/rider; $15/passenger to benefit National Ovarian Cancer Coalition North Jersey Chapter. 60-mile group ride thru Warren/Sussex Ctys. All bikes welcome • www.dangerouscurvz.com 27-30 • Backroads Fall Fiesta 2012 • We’re heading back to the Amish country in Pennsylvania. This time we’ll be staying downtown at the Lancaster Arts Hotel, right in the center of great dining and cultural doings, but easy access to the beautiful country roads in that area. Again, ROOMS ARE LIMITED SO BOOK NOW! Rooms are $135/night, and includes free breakfast, parking, Wi-Fi and taxi service within 5 mile radius • www.lancasterartshotel.com • 866-720-2787 - ask for the Backroads Fall Fiesta group.

29 • 9am-4pm • Celebrate Oktoberfest at Bob’s BMW. This annual, family-fun event is a great way to spend the day. Ride to Bob’s early for fresh coffee and donuts and stay for an authentic German lunch! Kick tires with fellow enthusiasts and shop great specials.

Details of the day are in the works. Check back for updates at bobsbmw.com

NOVEMBER 3 • 6-10pm • Bob's BMW 30th Year Anniversary Celebration. Tickets will be available months in advance. You will want to get tickets as soon as they are available …this is going to be a night to remember so we anticipate tickets will go FAST! Stay tuned for specifics to be confirmed, but for now, expect a private, catered evening among fellow friends with lots of surprises, amazing giveaways, first heard announcements from Bob, plus an official tribute to Bob’s BMW! Visit www.BobsBMW for details.

Autocom We’re Back - Actually, we never left…

The Best Motorcycle Communication System on the Market

NEW IMPORTER, NEW PRODUCTS, NEW DEALERS Enjoy crystal clear audio from ALL of your favorite devices. Integration for music, GPS, radar detector, phone, bike-to-bike including CB and more.

ANY BIKE To experience why Autocom is the clear choice for communications see one of our dealers or call

ANY SPEED

GUARANTEED

Max BMW Motorcycles

Mortons BMW Motorcycles

North Hampton, NH • 603-964-2877

Fredericksburg, VA • 540-891-9844

Country Rode Motowerks

Adventure BMW

Blue Moon Cycle

Fairport, NY • 585-421-0480

Chesapeake, VA • 757-523-7055

Norcross, GA • 770-477-6945

Rocket Moto

Blue Ridge Powersports

Hollis, NH • 877-533-4245

Harrisonburg, VA • 540-434-7345

866-951-5550

www.autocomdirect.com

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 55

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS stitcHed to PerFection The newest seat in Mustang’s Tripper line is their Wide Tripper solo that features a detailed diamond stitch design.

The 14” wide solo fits 2008-up FL models and is shipped complete with a matching mini bib plus chrome mounting hardware giving it a finished look for one-up riding. The matching passenger seat is 11.5” wide.

Mustang’s Wide Tripper Solo with diamond stitching is only $289; the rear seat is $169. Solos are also sold with a removable, fully adjustable driver backrest and will be available soon in a distressed brown.

Mustang seats for Metric Cruisers and H-D® models are all proudly handcrafted in the USA. For more info, visit MustangSeats.com or call 800-243-1392.

sHad aluminum adventure-Bike saddleBaGs and toP case Tough Luggage Trio for Local Hauling or World Traveling SHAD’s new ST38 trio of matching, lightweight, rugged aluminum saddlebags, top cases and model-specific racks is designed exclusively for adventure-bike pilots who want to pack up and leave everyday lives in their city, suburban or rural worlds for expeditions to points unknown—and beyond.

All three bags combine the durability, toughness and security that adventure riders demand from their motorcycle luggage when hauling essentials—from running local errands to navigating the globe.

The ST38 series is built from thick, yet light aluminum sheets with reinforced corners and oversized rivets to withstand the harshest riding conditions.

Completely waterproof, this matching trio shares airand water-tight rubber seals that make them impenetrable to dust and moisture. Steel hinges and a tough, high-security, dual-lock system ensure that cargo stays safe and secure inside.

Each case in the ST38 luggage system has 38 liters of packing space, making for a combined total of 114 liters; easily hauling 53 pounds of gear. The cases open from the top to reveal interiors with damping trays that quell vibration and fastening straps that keep their loads from moving around. The top case, which is big enough to hold a full-face helmet, measures 13.7 in. wide x 11.8 in. tall x 13.7 in. deep; each pannier is 18.5 in. wide, 13.7 in. tall and 8.3 in. deep.

Rider Education Of New Jersey Inc.

Basic RiderCourse • $275 Basic RiderCourse 2 (old ERC) • $125 “New” 3 Wheel BRC & The Advanced RiderCourse

Over 20 Years Experience!

Learn to Ride! Learn to Ride better!

No Permit Needed!

To Learn More or to Register Online Visit RENJ.com Call Today: 1-800-8WE-RiDE Motorcycle Safety Foundation & New Jersey State Approved MVC Written and Road Test Waived (certain restrictions apply)

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 56

This turnkey system is available with mounting systems for BMW, KTM, Suzuki, Triumph and Yamaha adventure bikes. Painted black, these solid steel frames are meticulously engineered to provide the rugged luggage with a shake-free ride. Adding versatility, an adapter allows the complete range of SHAD’s 16 top cases to complement the ST38 saddlebags. Retail pricing is $1199 for top case, saddlebags and mounting system; $879 for saddlebags and mounting system without top case.

Backed by a two-year warranty, the ST38s come in black or silver, complete with everything needed to haul a great supply of moto gear. They can be purchased as a three-piece set or saddlebag-only package to be used with or without a SHAD top case.

For more information on SHAD luggage and seat products, visit SHADUSA.com.

Quadlink 4-cHannel Battery cHarGer multiPlier Simplify Your Life – Save Money!

Many of us suffer from multiple bike disease with several rides in our garage. Those of us in Northern climates face the prospect of putting our bikes in storage during the long winter months. The question is what to do with our batteries to preserve their lives during the off-season.

One solution is to use a smart battery charger that we switch between multiple bikes.

I mark my calendar weekly to switch the charger from one bike to the next between four bikes and scooters in the garage. Even with my careful attention, usually this charging fandango results in a dead battery along the way.

PulseTech Products Corporation has a great solution- the QuadLink XC-QL4 4Channel 6/12V DC Charger Multiplier. This innovative product changes any brand battery charger (with a SAE output plug), up to 8 amps, into a 4-station maintenance charger. It automatically splits and distributes all of the charger’s capabilities into ten minute sequencing charge segments. It works with lead acid, AGM, gel-cell, deep cycle, motorcycle, auto, truck, and tractor battery regardless of the size of the CCA rating. It also recognizes if it is charging a six-volt or 12 volt battery.

It’s a simple plug and play solution to charging multiple batteries. No more shoveling of snow to run to the garage on those freezing Sunday mornings.

The QuadLink operates seamlessly with your charger, does not add to its charging capabilities, and does not interfere with the process if you a using a smart charger. Once connected the QuadLink sequences from battery to battery, switching every ten minutes. A blinking LED light indicates which battery is charging The Charger can also be used in multiple 6V or12V batteries such as 24, 36 and 48-volt configurations typically found in golf carts and similar battery packs.

I’ve been using my QuadLink for the past three months and really like the set and forget nature of it. At $99.95 it beats buying several chargers or weekly visits to the garage.

Each QuadLink comes with four 5’9” cables with SAE connectors and four 2’ cables with a SAE connector and battery clips. 5’ and 25’ extension leads are available separately. The warranty covers any defects in workmanship or materials for five years. Visit www.xtremecharge.com for a list of dealers or to order direct. ~ Michael Nemlich

RiSiNg WOLF gARAgE NYC EXCLUSIVE MOTORCYCLE PARKING FACILITY We p r o v i d e a f r i e n d l y, c l e a n a n d s e c u r e environment for the motorcycle enthusiast

MOTORCYCLEMADNESS 8 State Hwy 94 • Lafayette, NJ • 973-579-6088 • 877-252-9828

New Jersey’s Largest Pre-Owned Bike Seller Over 100 Clean Street, Dirt and ATVs In Stock AT ALL TIMES

Service Area Personal Storage Air Compressor Battery Charging

S ALL BIKE R O F ID H PA TOP CAS HUGE selection of Parts and Accessories for cruisers and sportbikes 600 Helmets In Stock: Icon, Shoei, Suomy, HJC, Scorpion and more

Monthly Parking Long & Short Term 24 Hour Access Video Surveillance

By Appointment Only

HUGE selection of apparel: Mens and Womens - Street and Dirt First Gear, Rocket, RIver Road, Fox, Thor, Alpinestar and much more Professionally Trained Mechanics • Gold Wing Experts

WE BEAT ANY INTERNET DEAL

East Village NYC Ph: 212 475 5858 • Fx: 212 505 5205

Located 1/4 mile north of 206/94 intersection and 1 mile north of Newton

risingwolfgarage@aol.com

Tues: 9-6 • Wed: 9-5 • Thurs: 10-8 • Fri: 10-5 • Sat: 9-2

www.risingwolfgarage.com

Closed: Sunday and Monday

www.MadMotorcycle.com

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 57

BOOK SPOTLIGHT

motorcycle Journeys tHrouGH nortH america A GuIdE FoR CHooSING ANd PLANNING uNFoRGETTABLE MoToRCYCLE TRIPS by dale Coyner Most riders dream of taking to the open road, enjoying the freedom to explore the beauty and diversity with which this continent is so richly blessed. Big trips. Big views. Unforgettable roads. Memories for a lifetime. An enviable Bucket List of legendary byways and must-see destinations that could happily fill the miles to the horizon.

Some day.

That day has arrived. Best selling author Dale Coyner has dug deeply into the collective wisdom of the motorcycle community to describe more than three dozen routes that weave less-traveled local favorites alongside the most iconic roads in North America: the Dragon, Beartooth Highway, Cabot Trail, Pacific Coast Highway, Natchez Trace, Blue Ridge Parkway, Avenue of the Giants, Million Dollar Highway—and so many more.

What constitutes an unforgettable trip? For some, it’s a long, contemplative ride through muted redrock landscapes on an arrow-straight highway. For others, it’s the thrill of chasing the apex for hours, cruising the shoreline, sweeping along a forest path, or scaling switchbacks to a humbling view of snow-capped peaks rolling unchecked into the distance.

Suggested itineraries span one to three weeks each and offer plenty of ideas and information for customizing your own adventures, including when to go, what to avoid, how to plan, and what not to miss once you’re there, along with the sort of tips and stories you might get from an experienced and trusted friend.

The only question that will remain is, what are you waiting for?

Paperback, 6 x 9 inches, 400 pages, approximately 150 maps and 350 color illus, $29.95. Copies are available at your local bookstore, motorcycle dealer, or directly from the publisher, Whitehorse Press, 107 East Conway Road, Center Conway, NH 03813-4012. Telephone toll-free 800-531-1133 or visit their web site at www.whitehorsepress.com.

Looking for something to do? Check out the Upcoming Events Calendar on page 53. You’ll find some great local rides, day trips and rallies. Or see page 62 for Backroads Fall Fiesta Rally information.

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 58

BOOK REVIEW

sHiFtinG Gears at 50: a motorcyclinG Guide For neW & returninG riders BY PHILIP BuoNPASToRE The baby boomer Bell curve was behind moto-journalist Philip Buonpastore’s motivation to create “Shifting Gears At 50.”

I wrote Shifting Gears at Fifty because I saw the need for a book that would address the requirements of the older person who wanted to ride motorcycles, and the book was written to try to help steer new riders in this age group around some of the mistakes typically made by a novice. Besides the experience that I had personally acquired over time, I also talked to other riders and simply observed the tastes and riding styles of riders like myself. The choices in the kind of motorcycles, as well as the kind of riding experience that a forty-plus year old rider wants is usually much different from a twenty-something year old rider. I had not seen a book about motorcycling that focused on new riders who were in this age group, and I thought I could address the need.

Buonpastore has managed to shift into his fifties, but he’s still left in the dust by legendary racer, motomagazine editor, and riding instructor Walt Fulton. Now the lead instructor for Streetmasters Motorcycle Workshops, Fulton has written the majority of riding tips that appear as sidebars in the book. Buonpastore also has enlisted others to write their personal riding experiences in another type of sidebar titled, A Rider’s Tale. However, the photos are all Buonpastore’s and they alone are sufficient to inspire people to straddle a saddle and set out to explore America.

This book is conveniently divided into two sections: Part 1, Becoming a Motorcyclist, and Part 2, Traveling

by Motorcycle. The first part has seven chapters than progress in a logical sequence from Learning to Ride to Traveling Long Distances. The chapters in between focus on buying a motorcycle, setting up the bike, choosing the right gear, first rides, and first tours. The second part is comprised of five travelogues: The Real Florida; The Road Goes On Forever; The Road Back; North Georgia Colors; and New Roads, New Rides.

Those of us who have been riding for “awhile” often forget how overwhelming, if not actually daunting, the learning curve is for new riders. Besides figuring out what is the best type of bike for their purposes/skill level/wallet, these new riders are faced with making choices about a wide range of gear, accessories, and concepts. Try to explain counter-steering to a new rider: yeah, right, turn the front wheel in the opposite direction you want to go . . . good joke. Tools? Who needs tools? The dealer services my motorcycle. The required air pressure is marked on the side of the tire, right? Simply choosing the most appropriate riding gear is something that many experienced riders have failed to accomplish, so this book becomes a handy refresher course for them as well.

Part 2 begins with the author’s first magazine article: The Real Florida. It includes others –sometimes edited and some in original submitted form—written over the years. Every one of them provides incentive to own a bike and, coupled with other rider’s tales, it should give a person enough ammunition to justify the purchase of a motorcycle to their otherwise reluctant significant other. Besides, they’re great stories to read during the ice-bound depths of winter.

Shifting Gears At 50: A Motorcycling Guide for New & Returning Riders is available at Amazon.com for $24.59 or visit www.shiftinggearsat50.com for more info. ~ Ken Aiken

HUNTER’S LODGE “The Real Taste of America” Open 7 Days for Lunch & Dinner 64 Route 446 • Delaware, NJ

908-475-0060 • www.hunterslodge.net Kitchen Open 11am-10pm Bar Open Late Happy Hour: Mon-Fri 5-7pm Tues. Italian Night All You Can Eat Pasta $5.50

Specializing in Ducati, BMW, MV Agusta, Triumph and Aprilia Service • Repairs • Suspension upgrades and engine performance Give us a call or stop on by 41 Ballard Rd • Middletown, NY www.europeancycleservices.com 845-725-7707

Wednesday • Wing Night 50¢ Wings and $1 Pabst Blue Ribbon Cans Thursday • Ladies Night $2 House Drinks 4pm-close For The Ladies

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

ROAD TRIP

Page 59

Montana Meanderings and More Terry Peters Tendrils of fog swirl above the rushing waters as the river plunges towards darkness. It is on my right, barely visible in the failing light. At least I don’t have to worry about any deer running out from that side of the road, and with that small measure of reassurance I accelerate into the next corner.

I can see the three headlights in my rearview mirror and know my riding buddies are staying close. This nighttime formation is safer but I can’t believe we are doing this again. I thought last night’s run across the desert basin would have been enough for this trip.

Another glaring headlight of oncoming traffic brings my focus back to the road and then its gone and I am back in the darkness with only my headlight offering any relief. We are on Highway 55 north of Boise, Idaho hoping to find a place to stay.

The day had started out well in Baker, Nevada. We had pushed hard to reach there last night after discovering there were no rooms available anywhere in the small town of Milford. Sitting at the edge of the Great Basin National Park meant we would have to travel the 94 miles across it in the dark to reach the next town. After an adrenaline fueled ride we finally arrived only to discover Garrison barely more than a name on the map than a real town so we rode another 20 miles to get to Baker where we found a motel.

The bonus was there was a bar attached to it, the downside all that we could get to eat was potato chips to go with the beer.

GET OUT AND RIDE

We’re Not Just a Shop, We’re a Destination The Metropolitan Area’s European Riding Center Headquarters for Moto Guzzi Triumph We stock new and Vespa

Wednesday Bike Nights - 6 to 9pm

pre-owned vehicles

Enjoy a mid-week ride to northwestern Jersey’s premiere Harley-Davidson dealership.

SUNDAY BIKERS BREAKFAST Starting in Mid-June www.tramontinhd.com for details

BRANCHVILLE MOTORS Conveniently located across from the Branchville train station on the Danbury line of Metro North

63 Ethan Allen Hwy Ridgefied, CT

203.544.7901 www.Branchville.com Tues-Fri: 9am-6pm • Sat: 9am-4pm

Carrying only the best in motorcycling gear and apparel for scooterists.

Visit our Ebay store for our clearance and closeout items.

Page 60 Now the sunshine promised a new day and we stopped for breakfast in a funky little café called the Electrolux Café and Silver Jack Inn. The owner, Terry Maraco made us bacon and eggs and we had a nice chat with him about the area. The walls were lined with his beautiful photographs.

Outside the four bikes gleamed in the morning light. My 2001 Kawasaki ZRX1200R, my riding buddy, Michael Brennan’s 2004 ZRX, my brother John’s 2001 BMW K1200RS and our friend Larry Bannon’s 2003 version of the same BMW. A formidable lineup of performance bikes kitted out for travel. Michael and I had ridden from Vancouver, B.C. while John and Larry had come from Barrie, Ontario with the meeting point being Walden, Colorado a few days earlier. We had toured around Colorado over to Monument Valley then across southern Utah and now we were in Nevada and heading north.

Riding east on Highway 50 we went over the Connor Pass to Ely where we turned onto Highway 93. It’s a hundred miles to anywhere on this route and it takes you across enormous desert basins. These are the wide-open spaces I love. The vastness of the land with only the pavement to show man’s intrusion is soothing and allows for a big measure of contemplation. I pulled

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS over at one point just to shut off the bike and take off my helmet to soak up the quiet. The desert was greener than I’d ever seen it, a testament to a rainy year. With no other traffic on the road catching up to the group was not hard after I mounted back up.

Finally at the end of this desert run we arrived at Wendover and were back into Utah at the legendary Bonneville Salt Flats. This brilliant white expanse of dried lakebed is the home for land speed records on every type of vehicle. We roared down the paved road that takes you out onto the flats.

Always a great photo opportunity, we all had cameras out. Standing on the salt bed you could almost here the echoes of the engines that have performed their utmost here.

Next it was a stretch of interstate riding, that we normally try to avoid, to get over to Wells and another straight shot north to get to Idaho. The blue skies that we’d enjoyed all day gradually clouded over and the temperature dropped, clearly signaling the changing weather approaching. Far ahead there were patches of blue showing through the clouds and I was pushing hard to get to it before the rain got to me.

Unfortunately something else got me. A state trooper went past me in the other direction after I had passed a car. I looked in my mirror and didn’t see his brake lights come on, or his flashing lights so I thought I was safe but just to be sure I decided to pass some more cars to put some distance between him and me; this turned out to not be such a good plan because he did turn around and come after me and now he had me clocked going even faster than before. He pulled me over and it started to rain while I stood at the side of the road, then it started to hail. I pulled on my rain gear then put on my helmet while I continued to stand and wait. Eventually he came back with my ticket, fortunately not too much of a lecture. 90 mph in a 70 mph zone, 20 mph over the limit for a whopping $297.00. Ouch! His one comment to me was, “this is going to hurt.” I stopped at the next pullout where John and Larry were waiting and we all rode in to the next town, ironically named Jackpot. We regrouped with Michael there and his comment was “why are you two brothers so competitive? Just because John got a speeding ticket yesterday, you had to go out and get a bigger one!”

We got to Boise and decided to look for a motel on the north side as we left the city on Highway 55. The outskirts turned into suburbs and no motels in sight. We gassed up in Horseshoe Bend and aimed for Banks but when we arrived there in the dark we found the couple of motels there were closed.

We were riding a great, twisty road but in the dark. I took the lead and tucked in behind a pickup truck that was setting a good pace for a long stretch of road. The Payette River was rushing past on our right with occasional foggy patches stretching out to reach the highway.

I pulled into one motel parking lot even though they had the closed sign on. I knocked on the door and asked what was up the road and told there were motels in Cascade. I took the lead again and rode the narrow twisty

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 61 road like I knew it. I think the others were happy enough to follow as no one tried to come up to take over the lead position. With the water on one side I didn’t think it was a likely area for deer to be on the road and I only saw two the whole way.

Finally in Cascade, which was a fair-sized town, we saw more motels except they were all full. There was one big fancy place and when we went in we were told they had one room left that had been reserved but the people hadn’t shown up. It had a king-size bed which Michael and I shared, John slept on the pull out sofa and Larry graciously

accepted the floor on the cushions off the sofa.

Before going to bed we went down for a hot tub. There John, Larry and I talked to this very strange lady who obviously believed every conspiracy story she read about on the Internet. Minus any tin foil hats we called it a night.

After breakfast in the hotel and making use of their hose to wash the bikes we were set for another day. We stopped 40 miles up the road at McCall for a cof-

fee and doughnut at this quaint gas station that looked like it hadn’t changed in 50 years. Michael turning west here to head back to Vancouver while John, Larry and I were going to ride towards Missoula. A bit further down the road I was getting some moisture on my visor despite the cloudless sky. I pulled into a viewpoint and could see where fluid had been tracking across the top of my radiator. I checked the reservoir and added some water then we rode on to New Meadows and turned north on Highway 95. When we got to Riggins we stopped at a gas station and I applied some metal cold patch to what appeared to be the source of the leak.

Riding through town we were ahead of the start of the July 4th parade and the streets were lined with spectators, so this Canadian pack lead the way. At Grangeville it was a short ride on Highway 13 to Kooskia where Highway 12 and the fun really began. We stopped to get a photo of my favourite sign of the trip. It read Windy road for next 99 miles. The first section was under construction as the road wound alongside the Clearwater River. There was just enough loose gravel and bumps to slow everyone down and take in the views.

Further along, with no more construction we picked up the pace. The constant twisting of the highway makes it one of the best rides in the area. It was getting hot and we found a good spot to pull in for a swim. At the river I was wading towards a rock to sit on and realized the water was flowing much faster than I had anticipated. My foot slipped on a rock and as I lost my balance I was suddenly being swept downriver. I immediately lost my sunglasses, and then the strap of my waterproof camera got caught under the water on a rock. I was able to

COUNTRY RODE MOTOWERKS 286 Macedon Center Rd • Fairport, NY 866-323-6570 • www.countryrode.com

JUNE 2012 • BACKROADS

Page 62

You’ve asked for it and here it is…

Backroads Fall Fiesta • September 27 - 30, 2012 Join Team Backroads as we head back to the Amish country and the spectacular Lancaster Arts Hotel.

We’ll combine some of the prettiest roads in Pennsylvania with one of the most progressive cities in the United States. Lancaster offers historic sites and attractions as well as varied restaurants.

Tour the Harley-Davidson factory on Friday and enjoy the Mayor’s Charity Ride Saturday, with a route especially created by Lancaster’s own Mayor, Rick Gray.

This event will sell out quickly. As usual, we have a limited number of rooms available so BOOK TODAY.

www.lancasterartshotel.com • 866-720-2787 Please ask for the Backroads Fall Fiesta when booking. Standard rooms from $135 per night.

BACKROADS • JUNE 2012

Page 63

hang onto the camera and pull myself against the current to stand up again.

Carefully I worked my way back to the riverbank. The camera had taken a pretty good hit and the battery compartment was open and the inside had gotten wet. I set the camera on the shore and started again, more carefully. We had a nice soak there then got back to the bikes to carry on.

The rest of the ride was great, very twisty, good pavement, and no traffic.

We rode over the Lola pass and down the other side into Missoula. Stopped at a traffic light I could see I was leaking a fair amount of rad fluid so we decided to call it a day (it was 6:00 PM) and get a motel room. We pulled into one and didn’t check the room first which was a mistake because it smelled like an ashtray but my focus was on the bike so we dealt with it.

We found the leak. I had bought a bottle of rad stop leak and went about getting some fluid drained out of the tank to make room for it.

After it was all back together and I had ridden it for 20 minutes it seemed to be working. I went ahead and put on more cold patch and hoped it would hold until I got home.

Optimistic about the repair we rode north the next day to connect with Highway 200. We went through some depressed areas; sometimes you see these decrepit trailers and wonder who lives in these places. Noxon was one of those places.

We stopped in Paradise, a shrinking town that once had a thriving railway community living there. We had a delicious breakfast at Kathy’s Café and added our names to the big map posted on the back wall. Highway 200 continued to be a great route surrounded by some typical Montana scenery, big rolling foothills sloping down to a wide river. At Clark Fork we were back

290 Route 100 West Dover, VT 800-745-3615

Book your Summer 2012 Today Group Orientated

We can accommodate group dinners on site

Hot Tub/Outdoor Pool

www.grayghostinn.com

Firepit • BYOB Bar • Wi-Fi Hot cook-to-order breakfast

into Idaho and a short time later it was so long Idaho and hello Washington at Priest River. The state border runs right through the town and there was one intersection that we stopped at and when we pulled away for the green light we were now in Washington.

Once we were in Washington my police speed trap paranoia kicked in big time, having been ticketed twice previously in that state. We were riding along Hwy 20, which was quite dull and staying at the speed limit felt really slow after the fast riding in Montana. We opted to head for the Canadian border and near Metaline Falls we hit a nice tight set of switchbacks. I was so excited to finally have some tight curves to ride I pushed the bike all the way over until the outside of my boots were rubbing the ground.

Maybe it was boredom but the customs officer we dealt with asked more questions than I’ve ever been put through. Finally we were in British Columbia. It always feels great to know I am back in my own province after being away on these trips. We rode north through Salmo to Nelson on great roads with lots of curves and no traffic, finishing the day by riding north on Highway 6 to Nakusp. The views just kept getting better and there were a few choice photo stops, like the one at Summit Lake where the still water beautifully reflected the surrounding mountains and setting sun.

We got rooms at a great motel called the Canyon Court and headed into town for a meal and some beers in a local pub.

In the morning I headed west to Vancouver while John and Larry went to Calgary on their journey east, the end of another adventure and the start of the anticipation of the next one.