TOURING MOROCCO WITH IMTBIKE HARLEY-DAVIDSON ROAD KING SPECIAL RIDE • EAT • SLEEP • DISCOVER
W H A T ’ S M ONTH LY COL UM N S
I N S I D E 22
FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................3 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................4 POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................5 ON THE MARK ....................................................6 THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD ..........................7 BACKLASH..........................................................8 INDUSTRY INFOBITES.......................................9 INSIDE SCOOP..................................................11 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA..................................12 BIG CITY GETAWAY .........................................14 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ..............16 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ........................................18 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE ............................20 UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ...................40
Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure
M OTORC YCLE R EVI EW S HONDA 2018 GOLD WING ..............................22 HARLEY-DAVIDSON ROAD KING SPECIAL....35
P ROD UCT RE VI EWS DONOR HOSE ..................................................31 METZELER KAROO TIRES ...............................31 HARD SYSTEM V .............................................36 SMART DIAGNOSTICS LLC ............................37 DENALI D2 2.0 LIGHT KIT................................38
Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil
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Mark Byers, Victor Cruz, Jay Duchin, Bill Heald, Tony Lisanti, Brian Nelson, Kevin Wing, Dr. Seymour O’Life
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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2018. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.
BACKROADS • MARCH 2018
FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJeN
The Price Ain’T righT I recently spotted a news story come across that grabbed my attention. It was about a secret federal investigation of Unidentified Flying Objects that was started by Nevada Senator Harry Reid. This UFO Study cost the taxpayers $20 million and I was able to find commentary on this on a number of news channels. I did take note that both Fox and MSNBC’s talking heads were, for once, in sync with each other and chuckling when they passed this information along. Then both the right and left got slightly more serious when they said how taxpayers had to ante’ up the $20 million. The media is upset over this $20 million and not the $17 million Congress has put out over the year for sexual harassment claims? Priorities, kids, priorities! Still, I watched the US Navy footage of UFOs off the California coast from this once secret US Navy footage from 2004. The quotes and excitement of our flyers were apparent. “There’s a whole fleet of them – This is F’n going on!” They spotted something and I think the Pentagon was more worried about new military technology from China or Russia than ET – so I am all for the $20 million study. That is nothing. It is like the tail section of a new F-35. The last sale from Lockheed Martin priced an F-35A jet to the Pentagon at $94.6 million each, but President Trump beat them up over the price and got it down to around $80 million. Still a lot of money for one aircraft – but that is the trend in these last few decades. These days new U.S. tactical aircraft cost up to two and a half times more
Page 3 than the aircraft it replaces. The F-22 Raptor cost approximately $250 million, replacing the F-15 Eagle which cost $65 million each. The most cost-effective replacement that I found was the F-15E Strike Eagle, a multi-role fighter and strike aircraft that replaced the F-111 Aardvark. Both cost approximately the same amount, about $80 million each. Let’s compare these to the aircraft that won WWII. Among one of the most famous aircraft during World War II was the P-51 Mustang, a formidable adversary to the German fighters, which cost $59,000 to make in 1942, and averaged out to be about $911,000 today. The B-17 Bomber was in the middle between the most expensive and least expensive aircraft produced between 1939-1941. It cost around $300,000 a piece, costing about $4.5 million in today’s cash. And this is about motorcycles in what way, you ask? Back in the heyday of the 80’s, the 1983 Honda VF750F Interceptor cost about $3,500, which calculates to about $8,700 these days. This bike was the cutting edge machine, and everybody who was into sportbikes wanted it. Back then that $3,500 was a large chunk of change – but, if you had it, you could roll down to your local Honda shop and ride away with a machine that looked very close to what Spencer and Richichi were winning with on the track. I worked for a Honda dealership back then (Paragon in Long Island City) and when the Interceptor 1000 showed up with a $5,000 tag we all said, “NO ONE will spend this much on a bike.” Boy, were we nearsighted and slightly naïve. Just to compare… some ten years earlier when the Kawasaki Z1 was released it was just $1,895 for the # 1 street machine on the planet! Today we have a direct comparison of a very similar bike with the release of the 2018 Kawasaki Z900RS, which sells for $11,199 in the same colors Continued on Page 21
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MARCH 2018 • BACKROADS
WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL
A MATTer of PersPecTive What’s better than waking up, seeing the sun lighting a perfectly blue sky and thinking, ‘It’s a great day to take a ride.’ No planning, no maps, just a spontaneous jaunt along the backroads of wherever. Today, that’s a no-brainer, but at the turn of the 20th century, there had to be a bit more to it than opening the garage door and heading out. On a recent visit to Motorcyclepedia in Newburgh, NY, my eye was caught by a tin sign from the Erie Hotel, featured in an enclosed case, which it shared with a 1909 Marsh Metz and other memorabilia of the era. Leaning against the motorcycle was a reprint from the November 1, 1908 issue of Motorcycle Illustrated. It told the tale of a few guys who decided to take a ride from Newburgh to Port Jervis. Looking at a modern map, this would be a simple breakfast ride for any of us today but for these gents it was an all-day adventure. Beginning their day at 9am for their ‘century’ ride (100-miles round trip) their first 12 miles over quite dusty roads brought them to the village of Montgomery and, a bit further on, they made plans to find some gasoline, as ‘no one was sure where the precious stuff might be found.’ Their ride brought them through Slate Hill, which they found ‘beautiful beyond descrip-
tion.’ The final portion before Port Jervis brought them on an ascent, while not steep, was difficult due to a newly oiled surface, which made it quite difficult to navigate. The machines were filled up and they supped at the Erie Hotel on a much-deserved meal. By 2pm they were on their way back, over the Shawangunk mountains, which were described as so steep they were amazed to have all made it without walking. Once over the summit, they indulged in some friendly races, with the speedometers ‘running close to the fifty mark.’ They returned back to Newburgh just before dark and they all considered the ‘first united fun of what would probably be the future Motorcycle Club of Newburgh’ a grand success. We recently received the final standings from this year’s 100th running of the Crotona Midnight Run, held this past January. The original date had to be rescheduled due to frigid and dangerous conditions, but 30 intrepid souls took to the road at midnight in what the Ramapo Motorcycle Club described as ‘perfect weather’ for the overnight timed ride. Girard Fox, one VERY intrepid soul, paid homage to this ride on his 1922 Henderson. He came in 18th place, finishing 71.8 miles of the route. The notes on the finisher’s list remark ‘It’s the 21st century, Girard, we all run on 12 volts.’ The next time you don your riding gear for a pleasure ride, think upon these folks who had so much planning involved for the simplest of rides. Should you wind up on a bit of unpaved roadway during a Backroads’ ride, put yourself in the Motorcycle Club of Newburgh’s position with miles of sand and dust ahead and it all falls to perspective. Motorcycling is an adventure, whether at the inception of the sport or on today’s 21st century machines. And should you like to relive a bit of their ‘century’ ride, the Erie Hotel and Restaurant in Port Jervis is still serving up a ‘well deserved meal’ at the end of a beautiful day’s ride.
BACKROADS • MARCH 2018
POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HeALD
TrAveling lighTs It seems like the assaults, or at least the impacts, of our latest technological revolution messes with our personal status quos on almost a daily basis. Motorcycles have certainly been involved in this relentless march of computer chips like everything else that we use, but I think the pace has been a bit less frantic compared with some other machines. But in the life of a touring motorcyclist, there are so many other tools and devices that are a critical part of making life on the road safer, more enjoyable and less stressful that new technology changes how we do a lot of things. This is how life works nowadays, and it often means a trusted bit of kit we’ve used for ages is rendered obsolete and gets replaced by something from the computer store. Look at how so many people tell time these days, for example. Years ago wristwatches were as common as belts, and something that was as much a part of your regular wardrobe as shoes. But now a sizable part of the population just uses their cell phone as a portable clock and the wrist goes bare (except for Smartwatches, which are a different discussion for a different day). The fact is a lot of items we used to consider essential have been absorbed into other devices that can provide essentially the same function, often meaning you can hit the road with less stuff. Or can you? Here’s a prime example of when it makes sense to scrutinize things on a case-by-case basis. One of my favorite examples from the touring world is the high-tech riding garment, as there are so many out there now that try to
Page 5 do the work of several articles of clothing in one stylish suit. As great as these are, though, I still carry a rain suit on long trips even though the new, advanced, do-it-all riding togs are quite waterproof. So why do I drag along the additional waterproofs? Even a premium quality riding suit can leak eventually, but even if it doesn’t they do tend to become saturated in all-day wet rides and take a long time to dry, whereas a rain-specific suit can dry much faster and tends to last longer, largely because it isn’t worn as much. They also tend to pack into very small packages, making them worthwhile to haul along with you. As a final feature, if you wear one over your other suit not only is your Aerostich dry beneath but when the rain stops you can ride to dinner that night and patrons will never know you would be as presentable as a wet raccoon if not for the rain suit’s protection. This way you are dry as Bond, James Bond, when you show up. Ever see that dude climb out of a Dry Suit after dodging torpedoes and Great White Sharks, and he has a tux beneath? Same thing. Almost. A very different type of often-discarded tool for the road is a flashlight (or Torch for you Triumph riders out there, or Lumos Prime if you went to school at Hogwarts). The modern Smartphone is not only a great tool in terms of navigation, communication and music; the flashlight mode on most is quite excellent. I have used it to find my flashlight in a tank bag, in fact. And why do I still carry an old-timey Torch? Simple. Being built for punishment, compact in size and completely waterproof, they are a go-to aide in a dark crisis. The one I carry is far better at putting some light on the subject in a rainstorm compared to the phone, and if I have to do some time-consuming work I know I’m not depleting my Smartphone’s battery. We all know about those, and they’ll use any excuse (like using the flashlight function for long periods at a time) to throw in the towel. I am especially partial to convertible lights that can be used as a headlamp, for nothing is better for working with both hands in the dark (speaking Continued on Page 21
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MARCH 2018 • BACKROADS
ON THE MARK MARK ByeRS
PAckin’ By this time, Mrs. B and I will be on the verge of going to Ecuador with the Backroads family. We will be in the initial throes of packing: trying to fit the gear we need for a two-week South American jaunt into bags that will not only survive the handlers, but also meet airline size and weight restrictions. The airlines just LOVE to charge us extra money. I’m surprised they haven’t started charging us for the air we breathe (or the facsimile of air that results from running it through the engines for pressurization). No matter how you cut it, packing for a motorcycle trip is a challenge. I’m not talking about packing for a domestic trip where you load your own saddlebags – that’s pretty easy. Betsy and I developed pretty good measures to make sure we can go on extended trips with just what is in a single saddlebag each plus a shared topcase. What makes it simple is that the biggest, bulkiest, heaviest gear we have to carry while riding is what we are wearing. The helmets are on our heads, boots are on our feet, and big, bulky padded gear is on our bodies. What’s in the saddlebags is paltry by comparison. Problems arise when you have to pack all that crap into a case that meets the airline’s Goldilocks Requirements: not too big, not too heavy, not too many, but just right. I suppose, if you are made of money, then you can pay an overweight fee of a hundred bucks or more if they’ll let you. You can pay for multiple bags, but the pricing structure for checked luggage increases exponentially with number. What a flying consumer is stuck with is walking that fine line between weight and volume. A guy was thrown off a British Airways flight for wearing ALL his clothes on the airplane. I just saw a photo of a couple wearing their full-face helmets in coach class. The look on the FA’s face was priceless.
Motorcycle gear is heavy: my Vanson jacket, replete with hardshell armor, weighs about 15 pounds. Add boots, pants, helmet, and gloves and I’ve easily used half or more of the 50-pound limit levied by most airlines before you have to pay the big bucks. When I travel for a bicycle race, where I use a rental bike and have to take RAM mounts, a Garmin mount, soft saddlebags, and comms gear, it pushes the limit. Some gate agents are sticklers and some are not. There are things I can wear or carry on, but I don’t relish dragging too much stuff through security: explain to a humorless TSA guy what all those wires are inside your Gerbing jacket. Don’t forget and leave your Swiss Army Knife in your helmet bag. Ask me… The complication with Ecuador is climatic diversity. We will have to be prepared for every microclimate from Quito at over 9,000 feet, to the rainforest to the coast and back. Gear selection, and hence packing, will be critical. Oh sure, there are wundergarments whose manufacturers claim are light as a feather, waterproof as a penguin’s ass, protective as steel, and good for every temperature from the South Pole to the Sahara. Let’s hope Klim lives up to their billing. I guarantee I’ll debate whether to put my riding socks inside the boots or the helmet to reduce bulk. In fact, lots of what I take will be inside the boots or the helmet, one of my volume-reducing strategies. The other? When in doubt, leave it out. The best advice I heard is to lay out what you think you need on the bed and then reduce it by half. Don’t forget the return: you know there will be some totem for the shelf in the bar. There’ll be treasured mementos for ourselves and family that we won’t (or aren’t allowed to) give to the postal services. Ask Betsy about Barbara the Bar Harbor Post Office Nazi. I have shipped gear in both directions before, but there are things I just won’t entrust to shipping: helmets and boots that are not easily replaced in certain locales. We will be shipping school supplies for Betsy to hand out, something the teacher in her relishes. Packing light and small is neither a new nor a difficult problem, but those of us who travel on rented motorcycles have more with which to contend than your average airline customer. There’s a good reason why I have a monochromatic travel wardrobe and like quick-dry materials. Don’t judge me: I’m packin’.
BACKROADS • MARCH 2018
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THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD A MessAge froM Don hAll AnD The chATTerbox Drive- in To the Friends of the Chatterbox, By now most of you know that the Chatterbox is entering its last season. The reasons for selling are many and varied and I can assure you that this decision was not taken lightly. I will attempt to answer the questions that I get most of the time. Why can’t someone buy it and keep it running? Well, they could, but no one wanted to. Besides, the property is worth more than the business so someone would have to buy it at a price that the business could not afford to pay back. Why can’t you just keep it going? I could, but the infrastructure is 20 years old, we are open almost 365, and we’ve put several million people through here. That really takes its toll. My septic is that old and it’s a restaurant. Even though we maintain it well, it’s still on borrowed time. My HVAC system is on its last legs. Combine all of those factors, mix in the fact that I’m not getting any younger and foodservice is changing rapidly, with small independent places like us caught in the middle. I have not the time, money or energy to combat those forces anymore. Even though the place always seems busy, I can assure you that it is VERY expensive to run it. I have waited 15 years for the” two in the bush”, I finally have the “one in the hand” and I’m going to take it. The Summer of 2018… Having explained all of that, I can also assure you that the last 15 years have been incredible! All of the people that I’ve met, the kids that we’ve hired and trained and the organizations that we’ve been in-
volved with and helped along the way will always be with me. It’s nice to know that no one wants us to leave. Please know that we will be open for the Summer of 2018 with Bike Nights and Cruise Nights every week and open on our usual schedule. We hope you keep coming for this our last season! Let’s make this last “Summer of the Chatterbox” one to remember. Thanks for coming in and being a customer – it has been an awesome ride! Without all of you, none of this would have been possible! Don Hall From us… Since Don has been operating the Chatterbox it has become a Mecca of sorts for many riders and motorheads from around the northeast region and the USA. We have had so many readers tell us how a ride to the Chatterbox was almost a pilgrimage of sorts. We have never heard of Don saying “no” to any charitable request in all these many years and we have been through their doors countless times. Although some might feel betrayed by the passing of this iconic piece of New Jersey Americana we think Don’s letter above lets us know how and why this came about. So - don’t “Not Go” to The Chatterbox this year, rather take the time to enjoy this great place while we still have it and make this Summer of 2018 and the Chatterbox a thing we will be talking about for decades to come. See you there! Brian & Shira
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MARCH 2018 • BACKROADS
BACKLASH To the editors - Brian and Shira, I just read your article “Welcome to the Jungle” and wanted to thank you for the recognition. Lisa and I have been working out for several years now, and you’re right, it is important for staying strong and flexible as well as to combat road fatigue while riding. Also the diet is a bit lacking while we travel, so that’s even more reason to burn off those extra yummy calories. We also wanted to thank you for mentioning our amazing products, and where folks can find them. The science behind them is revolutionary, and it won’t be long before this delivery system is incorporated into other products. See you all in the Spring ! Jeff Caruana
Normandy Hey Shira and Brian, Keep up the great work! All of the Skylands BMW Riders’ best rides are inspired by places and/or routes we’ve read about in, or downloaded from, Backroads. While I read every issue from cover to cover, I must tell you that the recent article featuring your visit to Normandy was among the best I’ve read in any publication, on any subject. It’s on my bucket list, and the way you and Brian described the conflict and your reverence for the heroes involved literally brought tears to my eyes. I have a great admiration for The Greatest Gener-
Letters to the Editor
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ation (and the military in general), and your portrayal of the events and the landscape were as vivid as any I’ve ever read. I fear that this history is fading, and articles like yours remind us of the extraordinary sacrifices required to guarantee our freedoms. Well done. Thanks again, Eric Suhr Eric, Thanks for the kind words. Coming from a member of a group like Skylands it means a great deal to us.
Best of Backroads 2017 Hi Guys, Your redo of the past year is awesome! So many trips! Free Wheelin’does showcase model direction. Shira’s Whatchathinkin’ was an eye opener of the historic ladies groups. I didn’t believe the “Ignorant Cretin” who criticized your recent comments on loud pipes! That level of rider is what gives us the negative press. I’m glad you stand your ground, YEAH! Mark’s article is a relatable experience for our changing bodies/shapes! Les & Debbie Guile
Fake News? Hi Brian, Wow! Who knew riding was THAT dangerous. After 45+ years of riding I guess I’ve beaten the odds, well that’s it, I ‘m done, no more motorcycling for me, I’m getting out while I’m still kicking. See you on the road. Dwight Williams Backroads, After reading your February editorial, it just reinforces what my cousin and I occasionally discuss (she being 84 and me being 74). We’re kind of glad we are on the downhill phase of life! It’s not that I’m looking forward to leaving this mortal coil, just that I’ve experienced life at what I believe was the best of times because it seems to become more difficult to put up with this crap as time rolls on! Bob Binetti
Touring Spain I really enjoy reading your magazine. I realize you’re not a travel agent, but I was wondering if you could recommend a website or tour operator for a Barcelona Spain road tour. Thanks John Babos As a matter of fact, we can. Iberia MotoTours (imtbike.com) Scott and his crew do a first-rate job with any of their tours. And if you prefer renting and going on your own, we believe they do that as well. Enjoy!
BACKROADS • MARCH 2018
IN DU STRY INFOBITES CHECK OUT THE NEW AEROSTICH WEBSITE Online visitors to the Aerostich website are now greeted with an all-new look and feel to the online store. An updated version of aerostich.com was launched recently, bringing better navigation and putting more focus on Aerostich products and the riders who use them. The updated website includes many new landing pages and even more customer-provided photos and stories. The new website is also optimized to provide a more user-friendly experience for visitors using mobile devices like a tablet or phone. See the new section titled “How Do You Ride?” for information about four distinct riding types with a curated selection of products and equipment optimized for each. Already popular website features have also been brought forward into the updated design, including the Sizing Tool, the mix-andmatch suit Color Selector, many blog stories, product videos and of course the ‘Special Products’ — all of the hidden Easter Eggs and non-commercial content.
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News from the Inside Visit www.aerostich.com today to see all of the latest equipment for riders and to check out the all-new website design for yourself. To receive a catalog call 800-222-1994 or email catalog@aerostich.com.
FEMALE INTERNATIONAL RIDE DAY EAST COAST • MAY 4 - 6 Calling all motorcycle enthusiasts on the East Coast! Join in the celebration of female riders for the 3rd Annual International Female Ride Day East Coast Rally hosted by Garden State Girls, New Jersey, Chapter of WOW. This year’s rally is co-hosted by Tramontin Harley-Davidson, in Hope, NJ, and features an escorted ride, food, trophies, T-shirts, and vendors and live entertainment. Everyone is invited to participate, whether you “ride your own” or ride on the back! Proceeds from this event support H.O.P.E. (Help for Oncology Problems and Emotional Support) and Pink Out Women’s Cancer Fund. Tickets are on sale at Eventbrite: eventbrite.com/International Female Ride Day East Coast Rally 2018
MIC’S 2018 GAS TANK COMPETITION The Motorcycle Industry Council invites powersports entrepreneurs to enter for a chance to win one-on-one mentoring from an industry veteran, plus a trip to Las Vegas that includes booth space at the 2018 American International Motorcycle Expo presented by Nationwide with access to powersports leaders and media. The Motorcycle Industry Council’s 2018 Gas Tank Competition is open to individuals and groups, women and men, and anyone with a new product or service idea. Entrants must submit an application and “elevator pitch” video by Feb. 28 to be considered for the mentorship program. Selected entrants will be paired with an industry leader, who will offer coaching and advice on developing a business plan. Final business plans must be submitted to the Gas Tank Competition by July 20. Up to five finalists will be chosen by Aug. 11 to attend AIMExpo presented by Nationwide at Mandalay Bay in Las Vegas on Oct. 11-14. The finalist prize package includes travel and lodging expenses, booth space at the show and access to powersports media. This unique powersports event brings industry, press, dealers and consumers together in a single arena. It is the most
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Page 10 important event of its type in the North American market. Finalists must be able to appear in person at the October Las Vegas show to present their business plan to an industry panel. Pitches will be evaluated on monetary growth potential, overall strategic plan, strategic partners, scalability, innovation, viability and other criteria. First place, second place and runner-up winners will be selected from the competitors. For more info and to apply log on here: www.mic.org/downloads/gasTank-application-2018-v1.pdf
RIDER ACCUSES ROBOT-DRIvEN vEHICLE OF ‘NEGLIGENT DRIvING’ A California motorcyclist has filed a lawsuit against General Motors, accusing one of the manufacturer’s robot-operated vehicles of “negligent driving.” Oscar Willhelm Nilsson claims he was traveling down a San Francisco street last month when a Cruise AV aborted a lane change and swerved into his lane. The car struck him, “knocking him to the ground,” in a crash that left him injured and unable to work. The Cruise AV was operating in self-driving mode at the time of the crash, the suit alleges, but a backup driver was sitting in the front seat of the vehicle with his hands off the wheel.
HARLEY-DAvIDSON TO CLOSE KANSAS CITY PLANT Harley-Davidson plans to further improve its manufacturing operations and cost structure by commencing a multi-year manufacturing optimization initiative anchored by the consolidation of its motorcycle assembly plant in Kansas City, Mo. into its plant in York, Pa. The company expects to incur restructuring and other consolidation costs of $170 to $200 million and capital investment of approximately $75 million over the next two years and expects ongoing annual cash savings of $65 to $75 million after 2020.
MARCH 2018 • BACKROADS “The decision to consolidate our final assembly plants was made after very careful consideration of our manufacturing footprint and the appropriate capacity given the current business environment. Our Kansas City assembly operations will leave a legacy of safety, quality, collaboration and manufacturing leadership,” stated Matt Levatich, president and chief executive officer, Harley-Davidson, Inc.
ALTRIDER’S TASTE OF DAKAR • GOLD POINT, Nv APRIL 6 -8TH From sand dunes to stretches of cracked sand-beds, dirt trails winding around valleys and everything in between — the desert offers unique riding opportunities for ADV enthusiasts. AltRider’s Taste of Dakar is designed to be open to all level of adventure rider enthusiasts and remains an approachable way to share and develop skills from real riders. A day packed full of riding, with time to chill out before and after with like-minded ADV riders. “Our goal is education in ADV riding, becoming the rider you want to be, to increase your skills, and pass on our knowledge so that you can continue growing. So many of our past participants have been able to translate those skills into the next epic motorcycle trip that they’ve always dreamed of,” says Jeremy LeBreton, founder and president of AltRider. Join AltRider for an epic weekend adventure April 6-8th. This gripping adventure includes GPS-led routes, 5 square meals and snacks for the weekend, adult beverages, nightly entertainment including the opportunity to ride brand new routes planned by 5-time Dakar Rally professional participant Kellon Walch. Find out more: www.altrider.com/taste-of-dakar-2018/pid/1391
BACKROADS • MARCH 2018
Page 11 Every morning I receive an email letting me know what special day of the year it is. For example, March 1 is Pig Day, March 8 is Proofreading Day and March 22 is Goof Off Day. We all know that July is National Ice Cream Month but on the day I sat down to write this column it was the first Saturday in February which happened to be Ice Cream for Breakfast Day. Oh Joy! This great day came about back in the 1960s when Florence Rappaport, of Rochester, NY, was stuck in the house during a blizzard with her 6 children. To keep her sanity and the kids quiet, she declared that they were to have ice cream for breakfast. The next year the kids remembered the day and convinced Mom to celebrate it again. And thus a tradition began, to be celebrated internationally. Our local homemade ice cream farm, Windy Brow, celebrates with ice cream cones rolled in breakfast cereal and half-price pints of their most excellent ice cream. So mark it down on your calendar for next year and scoop yourself a big bowl of your favorite ice cream for breakfast.
Amy’s ice cream, Austin, Tx On a recent visit to Austin, TX to ride the new Honda Gold Wing, we had a little time to wander the streets and, amazingly, found an ice cream shop. Not just any ice cream shop - Amy’s Ice Cream - which happens to be an Austin institution. Started in 1984 by Amy Simmons and partner Scott Shaw, the original location is on Guadalupe Street but we stopped in to their South Congress location. It was a sunny but chilly day in January, but there was still a line up the block. This was fine, as it gave us time to peruse the menu flavors and crush’ns (think Cold Stone Creamery prep but MUCH better). They offer seven standard flavors and a plethora of additional, unique creations. This day’s offerings were Sweet Cream, White Chocolate, Mexican Vanilla (their signature flavor), Pop Tart, Grasshopper, Mozart Toddy, Coffee and Strawberry. We made our choices and took a seat on one of their benches to people watch, which is so much fun in Austin. Should you find yourself in the Lone Star state, take a look for one of Amy’s 16 locations (mostly around Austin).
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MARCH 2018 • BACKROADS
Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERI OUS AM ERI CA Alien PeTroglyPhs of bellows fAlls, verMonT Throughout history mankind has recorded happenings and events. From ochre colored cave painting to the Mona Lisa to Instagram. Our history has been about imagery. But sometimes images pop up that bear a closer bit of scrutiny. Over the last number of decades I have seen some very interesting and ancient imagery; some depicting things, events and beings we cannot define, understand or believe. Yet, there they are. On one Fall Fiesta we had been heading down to the West Dover area of Vermont from a twonight stay in Jackson, New Hampshire. We’d be crossing over the Connecticut River near Bellows Falls, Vermont and, being a bit famished, we stopped for lunch at a near-deserted café. I remembered that there was something about Bellows Falls. Something odd and a bit remarkable, but since the abduction years back I sometimes have a hard time remembering. The gum-chewing waitress came over to take our order as I looked at my ever-present Roadside America app on my phone. Yes, that was it! It was right here! How could I forget this? The waitress came back with our drinks and, while taking the lunch order, I held up the phone for her to see. “You know this?” I asked. “Sure do,” she replied with a smile, “Doesn’t everyone around here?” She said it was right down the road. Minutes later the food arrived. Shira looked at
me with a slightly withering gaze. “Does this involve Bigfoot?” “Nope.” “Is it any sort of psychiatric hospital?” “No, don’t be silly, the whole state is crazy.” “Ohh, good, because I am so done with them.” She stared at me with that ‘well, out with it’ look. “Aliens,” I said with a broad grin. She went back to her tuna melt and began to mumble.
We finished up and, in just a few minutes, were at the Vilas Bridge, which was closed for repair. A squad car sat in an empty fuel station across the street and I rolled over to him and asked about the Alien Petroglyphs of Bellows Falls, Vermont. He raised his head from his paper work and said they were right over there and were best seen from the bridge, but it was closed. We could see
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BACKROADS • MARCH 2018
that, but he added that, “We shouldn’t go onto the span while he was there, as he was a law enforcement officer and that would be against the law.” He then cocked his head, actually winked at me, and put his cruiser into gear and silently rolled down the gravel road and away from the soon-to-be “scene of the crime.” Peering over the side we could clearly see exactly what we were searching for - right on the southwest side of the cliff, clearly marked with a strip of yellow paint to locate them - ancient native petroglyphs that had been etched into the stone hundreds of years ago. Some stick-in-the-muds feel the abstract features of these heads are consistent with the traditional corn husk masks of the Abenaki and Iroquois peo-
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ples, but many more enlightened researchers claim they bear an uncanny resemblance to what many consider the Gray Alien. I am thinking little gray men, but that is just me - and I am an optimist. What is unique is the deep and fine work that creates this petroglyph. These faces could not have been made by any stone chisel and I would think that even today’s finest diamond saw blade would have a hard time reproducing the cut, bevel and angles, not to mention the smoothness of each of these faces etched into the cliffs high above the river. To me they looked very similar to the faces found at Puma Punku and Tiwanaku in South America. Ancient Alien or Native American – you can make the call, but it is something certainly worth investigating while riding along the Vermont / New Hampshire Border. ~ O’Life out!
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MARCH 2018 • BACKROADS
Hanover Powersports Presents
BIG CITY GETAWAY A DAy AT The MuseuM – MoTorcyclePeDiA 250 lAke sT, newburgh, ny 845-569-9065 • www.motorcyclepediamuseum.org A few months back we received an email from one of our readers, Ron Breau, who happens to be one of the Road Captains for the Gold Wing Road Riders Association Chapter X of Hudson Valley. He wanted to know if Backroads would be interested in giving a talk or presentation to their chapter at one of the their monthly meetings. Well, sure, we’d be happy and honored to do so. Then we found out their meetings are held monthly at Motorcyclepedia, the northeast’s premier museum for motorcycles and motoAmericana. Now we really wanted to do this as, in our opinion, any excuse to walk through the massive museum is time well spent! We got to the museum a couple of hours early, set up our PowerPoint show (thanks for the help Dharman) and then went for a stroll – a day at the museum. Unlike the film A Night at the Museum we did not have to wait for nightfall for these machines and their stories to come to life for us. It was late December, snow was on the ground and just being around so much moto history was enough to get the oil flowing through our veins.
daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind Motorcyclepedia is big – some 85,000 square feet of exhibit space with 500 plus motorcycles from an 1897 De Dion Bouton onward. The De-Dion Bouton was one of the most popular vehicles in Europe back in the day, but they are very rare today – but here one stands. Amazing. More amazing is that it runs and is the oldest running motorcycle in the United States. This is worth going to see by itself. In the lower levels you will find The Wall of Death and, if you are there on a day when there’s a performance it, it is quite the show that literally defies gravity but proves physics. We took a long stroll through Motorcyclepedia this day, enjoying the eclectic mix of old American machines, bizarre motorcycles from various sci-fi films and just the great vibe that the museum itself seems to embody. If you take the time (and you should) to read some of the stories that go with the different exhibits you will gain a greater appreciation of just how far motorcycles and motorcycle riding has come and how fortunate we are to live in a time in history where machines and roads are as excellent as they are. There was a time, not too long ago, that this was not the case. One story that popped out was a ride from October 18, 1908. It was a Sunday. But, do we not all ride on any Sunday? This group of intrepid riders
BACKROADS • MARCH 2018
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planned a day trip from the town of Newburgh west to Port Jervis and lunch at the Eerie Hotel, a place that is still going strong and well known to Backroads’ readers. The museum’s website has the entire story but here is a quote which will give you the feel and flavor of riding 110 years back in the past. “Just before Tri-States was reached a grade that had to be ascended. While not steep, it gave nearly all of the riders trouble, as it had recently been sprinkled with oil when in a very dusty condition. This made the surface so sticky that it was almost impossible to ride. From here into Port Jervis the road was in splendid condition and quick time was made.” Back at the museum this day we took in, with great interest, the military machines, taking special note of the American Harley and the odd German Kettenkrad – half motorcycle, half tank. Another standout to be seen was a Harley-Davidson Police motorcycle that has been verified as one of the motorcycles from President John F. Kennedy’s motorcade on the day he was assassinated. This motorcycle’s radio was the first to put out the emergency call that the President had been shot. This is real and living American motorcycle history right in front of you. You will also find the greatest collection of Indian motorcycles on the planet, as well as displays of motorcycle memorabilia and technical exhibits that will fire up any real motorhead. All too soon the Hudson Valley Gold Wing Club’s Christmas Party was under way and Shira and I presented our talk which went over well we think – they certainly had enough food to throw at us and none came our way – so I guess we did all right. We really wish to thank Ron for the invite and Ernie VanDeMark for making us feel so welcome and for giving us a chance to spend another Day at the Museum. Any day spent walking around Motorcyclepedia is time well spent for a rider. The Gold Wing Road Riders Association Chapter X meets on the third Sunday of the month at the Motorcyclepedia Museum at 1:30 PM. For more information see their event calendar on their website at www.hudsonvalleywings.org or www.motorcyclepediamuseum.org
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MARCH 2018 • BACKROADS
G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN fink’s bbQ AnD cheesesTeAk roADhouse 32 orAnge Ave - suffern ny - 10901 (845) 533-4033 • www.finksbbqroadhouse.com Although we would like to let you think that we have a handle on every great eatery in the Backroads region the truth is that is a very, very big swath of real estate. So we have taken to be ever vigilant in our searching out excellent places to bring you, our valued reader. Late one afternoon in December we were returning a machine to BMW’s corporate headquarters in northern New Jersey, making the best of the ride by cutting up and around the Ramapo mountains and then down towards Suffern and into New Jersey. Along Route 59 a sign to the left caught my eye as I rode by…. Fink’s BBQ and Cheesesteak Roadhouse. Mental note made. Little did I know that I would be back in just a few short hours as, after we dropped off the bike, we had an event across the Hudson in Ossining and later that night were winging back over the New Tapp bridge and more than just a bit hungry. The decision was quickly and wisely made to head back to Suffern and make a stop at Fink’s to see what this roadhouse at the southern edge of Harriman State Park had to offer. We were not disappointed. This is Fink’s second restaurant as they also have a Smokehouse on West Madison Avenue in Dumont, New Jersey. But the riding is up here and so were we. Let me tell you a bit about the appetizers to start with. Like lollipops? Well they serve them up Texas and Gulf-style with smoke chunks of bratwurst or shrimp skewered and wrapped bacon respectively.
tasty places to take your bike
Their smoked wings are very hard to beat – especially when you have such a wide array of sauces for your taste and liking. Fink’s bacon bleu chips are making a name for the place by themselves – fresh–cooked with a homemade blue cheese dressing, extra crumbled cheese and bacon with scallions. Truth be told we ride by a lot of BBQ joints, but it was the “cheesesteak roadhouse” name that jumped into my face shield when I passed and they have the largest selection of the Philly classic that we have ever seen.
Ready for this? They offer sixteen different cheesesteaks. Sixteen! The Classic, of course. But, how about smoked pork loin, mushroom party, buffalo chicken or The Shore Thing – shrimp & crab with onions, mushroom and your choice of cheese. The list seems to go on and, best of all, like the King, they really want you to have it your way. It says right on the menu to “Be ready to tell us your sandwich,” and to tell them…in order. 1. Name of sandwich 2. Toppings 3. Cheese and finally on what… hero, half, wrap or simply over a green salad - perfect for you healthy kids.
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BACKROADS • MARCH 2018 Maybe the Meat Lovers - pit roast sirloin, pork loin and pork belly with onions, Texas potato salad and beer cheese - would work on a green salad? I’m there and will break even health-wise…maybe. Shira tried the pork belly – yummy! As diverse and delicious as Fink’s cheese steaks can be they started out with wood, fire and smoke and their barbeque is a stand out as well. All their meats are dry-rubbed and slow cooked over long hours using apple and oak exclusively. Meats come by themselves accompanied only by some snappy pickles. Sides are extra and worth it too. Fink’s has the staples of most American BBQ joints… pork spare ribs (we had a rack and brought lunch home), pulled pork & turkey, beef brisket and chicken. They also offer things that are not normally seen including beef short ribs and something that sounds really good and will require a quick return visit to Finks… a half “fried-a-que” chicken – slow smoked chicken that is then “flash” fried and tossed in a sweet & smokey bbq sauce. What can be wrong with this? Right, not much. Fink’s offers their own versions of great standards as well – burgers, hot dogs and club sandwiches too. They seem to offer it all and offer it just a few miles off some of the most beautiful roads and scenery in the New York Hudson Valley area. When in and around Harriman State Park or the Ramapo Mountains give Fink’s a try - you will not be disappointed. With this Rip & Ride we thought we’d start off at Motorcyclepedia – one of the premier motorcycle museums in the USA and well worth exploring before your ride, and then play around the great roads that make up Harriman State Park in a convoluted but fun manner – enjoy!
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Rip & Ride® • Fink’s BBQ and Cheesesteak Roadhouse 32 Orange Ave - Suffern NY - 10901 (845) 533-4033 • www.finksbbqroadhouse.com
START AT MOTORCYCLEPEDIA 250 LAKE ST, NEWBURGH, NY
RIGHT OUT OF LOT SOUTH ON RTE. 32 LAKE ST. RIGHT AT OLD FORGE RD. CROSS RTE. 9W TO SHORE RD. BEAR RIGHT RIvER AvE. LEFT ON RTE. 218 STORM KING HIGHWAY RAMP TO RTE. 9W SOUTH ½ WAY AROUND TRAFFIC CIRCLE BEAR RIGHT TO BEAR MOUNTAIN INN FOLLOW SIGNS TO SEvEN LAKES/PERKINS DRIvE BEAR RIGHT UP MOUNTAIN TO PERKINS MEMORIAL WALK AROUND – ENjOY THE vIEWS! REvERSE BEAR RIGHT AND FOLLOW SEvEN LAKES DRIvE SIGNS BEAR RIGHT AT CIRCLE TO ARDEN vALLEY RD. LEFT AT RTE. 17 SOUTH UP RAMP AND LEFT ONTO RTE. 106 / LAKE KANAWAUKE 3/4 WAY AROUND CIRCLE SEvEN LAKES DRIvE SOUTH LEFT AT LAKE WELCH PARKWAY LEFT AT CEDAR POND / TIORATI BROOK RD. ¾ WAY AROUND CIRCLE TO SEvEN LAKES DRIvE SOUTH LEFT AT RTE. 17 SOUTH FOLLOW SIGNS TO RTE. 59 FINKS DOWN ON LEFT
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MARCH 2018 • BACKROADS
WE’RE OUTTA HER E
a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads
sTAunTon, virginiA • hiDDen geM of The blue riDge sTonewAll JAckson hoTel 24 s MArkeT sT, sTAunTon, vA 24401 540- 885-4848 • www.stonewalljacksonhotel.com “We like to think of this town as the hidden gem of the Blue Ridge.” So said one of the group sales women I was in discussion with in the lobby of the Stonewall Jackson Hotel, right in the downtown section of Staunton, Virginia. She had a point. Although we have been in and around Staunton many times, usually making our way north or south, this was the first time we had overnighted in the small city itself. Most times we were passing through the region we found ourselves at Mrs. Rowe’s, off Interstate 81, for pie and ice cream. Today was different, as we were on a recon mission of sorts. Our 2018 Backroads Spring Break, the 20th annual by the way, will have the official start in this town and at this very hotel – The Stonewall Jackson (not to be confused with the Stonewall Resort in WV) and we thought, on our way back from CLASS at VIR, we’d make it a point to get to Staunton early and take in the sites and see what was to be seen. We were not disappointed, and we can see why Staunton was recently
named as one of the Top 20 Small Towns in America by Smithsonian Magazine. The woman was right, it is a hidden gem – but it is called the Queen City of the Shenandoah Valley and rightly so. Located just west of the famed Blue Ridge Parkway it is an old town, founded in 1747 and named for Lady Rebecca Staunton, wife to Royal Lieutenant-Governor William Gooch. In those days this was the center of Virginia, as the state of West Virginia was part of the commonwealth. The 28th president of the United States, Woodrow Wilson, was born here in Staunton and his library can be found right in town just a short stroll from the hotel.
Just about everything in Staunton is just a short stroll from the Stonewall Jackson Hotel. We spent a late afternoon in October walking along East Beverly Street, which has a great number of interesting shops and points of interest.
A large used bookstore, the Black Swan, drew us right in, as did the local ice cream parlor (go figure) The Split Banana. You would be foolish not to wash some delicious dairy with some great local brew and that is what we found at the Shenandoah Valley Brewery (Jeff C. take notice). Another place of interest is the Camera Heritage Mu-
BACKROADS • MARCH 2018
Page 19 seum that has been nominated for the Virginia Association of Museums’ Top Ten Endangered Artifacts program. This place houses a huge and unique collection of antique cameras dating from the 19th century to modern times. It was closed when we got there, but it is certainly #1 on our list when we return in May. Right behind this will be a visit to the Bruce A. Elder Antique And Classic Automobiles. We got a chance, when strolling to dinner, to look into the window of this collection and it certainly will be a gathering point at some time when we are on the Spring Break.
Right next door to the hotel you will find the 300seat Blackfriars Playhouse - the world’s only re-creation of Shakespeare’s original indoor theatre. But, let’s talk about the Stonewall Jackson Hotel a bit, shall we? We love old places like this – they always seem to exude class and have a charm from years gone by that is impossible to find in the chain motel off the interstate. The Stonewall Jackson, a member of Historic Hotels of America, was built 94 years ago in 1924 as designed by H.L. Stevens and it is considered an excellent example of the architect’s work in the Colonial Revival style. In mezzanine of the hotel you will find an original 1924 Wurlitzer organ, believed to be the only one of its kind. It has been faithful restored to its original condition. Beautiful.
Atop the hotel its giant neon lighted sign is a beacon for travelers and a big part of the town’s hip and cool vibe. The rooms are very well appointed and you could not ask for a more comfortable bed. In the lobby, you will find a well stocked bar, Sorrels Lounge, with plenty of seating in and around it. The hotel’s restaurant, 24 Market, is distinguished for its offerings as well as its fine décor and large windows that let the morning light stream in. If needed they have a serious fitness center (Jeff C. take notice) as well as a heated indoor pool and hot tub. Parking for the bike is indoors and fairly secure, with a quick elevator ride to and from the machines. Basically the Stonewall Jackson Hotel and the town of Staunton, Virginia are everything we could ask for in an overnight destination or as a base for local exploration and we hope you will join us on our first night for the 20th Backroads Spring Break this coming May – we promise you will be so glad you did.
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MARCH 2018 • BACKROADS
The Law Office of Paul G. Gargiulo Presents
Welcome to the jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival HOW PUSHING A SHOPPING CART CAN MAKE YOU A BETTER RIDER
Words: Jay Duchin Hear me out before you roll your eyes and start looking for cat videos. I’m going to state the case that pushing a cart full of groceries in a crowded supermarket is a great way to practice safe motorcycle riding skills. In Massachusetts, there’s a popular supermarket called Market Basket. Great prices, narrow aisles and pure insanity before even the most benign weather events. Below are some things you can practice to hone your safe riding skills during each sustenance acquisition journey.
1. keep your eyes up If you’re staring at the front of your cart you’re not going to see potential hazards coming at you. By keeping your eyes up and scanning as far ahead as you can, you’ll be able to anticipate possible hazards and decide plans for how to maneuver away should (WHEN) someone start heading for you.
2. overloaded A heavy cart packed with bottles of spring water and soup cans is harder to control than a cart going for the 10 items or less lane. Just like your motorcycle when it’s full of camping gear or maybe a second rider, you have to adjust your riding style. The bike will be harder to stop and a little trickier to turn. And with that overloaded shopping cart, you have to adjust your speed so you can react to that obnoxious child running up and down the aisles.
3. ride for the conditions Busy streets with lots of intersections means you have to be ready for just about anything. Grandma bombing down the aisle looking for little Billy’s favorite chocolate chip cookies is a recipe for disaster. Now most of us slow down before approaching an intersection, stop sign or not! But this Granny doesn’t care, it’s all about her precious Billy, she’s on a mission and isn’t stopping for anyone. As you approach the supermarket’s many intersections, be prepared to slow, or stop, to avoid a collision. Your bike has hydraulic brakes but your cart relies on your physical strength to slow the forward momentum. Practice pushing the cart at a speed that can repeatedly reproduce short stopping distances.
4. rush hour Not all riders are comfortable riding during the busy hours of the day. People tend to not be paying attention and have other things in mind. The prestorm “Milk, Bread and toilet paper (sometimes eggs)” shoppers will be out in force and it’s a dangerous time to be out in the food aisles and roads. If crazy, bumper to bumper traffic makes you uncomfortable, plan your trips to avoid the busy times and enjoy your roads. You may even start to enjoy food shopping.
5. slow, look, roll (no lean, your cart has 4 wheels) You forgot bread but your bladder is screaming for relief. You know Aisle 7 is where you need to go so you speed down the front of the store, make a tight turn down 7 and BAM! You just ran over little Suzy practicing for her
dance recital. It’s now an ugly mess of screaming and yelling and your urgency to void is at level 10! A better, safer approach would be to slow down to a safe entry speed, turn your head to look through the corner to maximize your field of view down the aisle and when safe, roll on some energy to power through the turn. Here are a few more things to watch out for as you push through to the checkout. - distracted drivers: people scanning for cardamon in the crazy spice section will not see you coming. No high vis outfit will turn their gaze from those tiny racks of powdered flavoring. - cell phone users: to no one’s surprise, they are the worst and could care less about you. Slow down and proceed with caution. - running children: The Terrible Twos are some of the most dangerous hazards, be prepared for literally anything. - elderly shoppers: give them room and be sure it’s safe to pass if you dare to be so brave. Faster speed means increased stopping distances so get ready for a maximum effort braking maneuver. - slippery conditions: Is it pickle juice or vomit? Either way it can be a slip hazard so slow down so you have time to evaluate the conditions and correct your path of travel if necessary. - hot shoppers: Yes, we’re all guilty of looking longer than we should at attractive customers. Keep your eyes ahead and stop being such a pig. Hopefully these tips will make food shopping a little more enjoyable while simultaneously making you a better rider.
BACKROADS • MARCH 2018
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The LAME Award 2018 Lifetime Achievement in Motorcycling Excellence Award It was our pleasure to present motor sports photographer Kevin Wing with our annual Backroads Lifetime Achievement in Motorcycling Excellence Award at the recent Honda Gold Wing Media Event in Austin, Texas. The LAME Award (we love that acronym) is given to those persons or groups who have shown, over the years, a sincere love of our sport, have strived to help others in motorcycling and promote motorcycling on a constant basis.
For those of you who know Kevin Wing you know that this year’s LAME Award was well given. For those who are not familiar with Kevin’s work we dare say that you are – as his brilliant images of motorcycles, riders and other powersports have graced just about every major publication in the United States and around the world for years. Kevin’s images always serve to inspire, impress and portray the industry in the most beautiful and striking ways. We think he just might have sold more machines than the marketing divisions of many manufacturers. Personally Kevin is as friendly and easy to work with as anyone we have met in our two decades plus of producing Backroads – when Kevin Wing is shooting we know everything will be great and he can even make us look professional. It was a true delight to give him the 2018 LAME Award. free wheelin’ Continued from Page 3 as the original. With the average inflation rate of 3.96%, the original Z1 would sell for $8,500 - a $2,700 difference - which is not chump change. But, there are other factors to throw into this mix, mostly R&D, for as great as the Z1 was technologically, it would have a hard time competing with the Z900RS that has the latest in water-cooling, ABS & traction control, electronic rider support technology, suspension, LED lighting and digital instrumentation. All this in my mind is worth the extra bucks. It seems to me that the Japanese models have, for the most part, kept prices just a tad above inflation – but look at what you get for this – a lot. Other European manufacturers, although some offer mid-priced machines, have bikes in their fleets are on the bad side of crazy price-wise. I’ve been known as a GS guy, but can I justify the extra $10 grand to purchase a new one when the V-Strom 1000 is in the showroom, available at a bargain price, basically saying… “Hey, middle age guy… C’mere I wanna talk to you.” If we want to attract new riders and woo returning motorcyclists back to the fold the OEMs need to make really good bikes at really affordable prices. They are there – you just need to find them. What would Drew Carey do? PosTcArDs froM The heDge
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Continued from Page 5
of which, where the hell is mine? The wife was using it to bandage a horse, and it has vanished). If you try to affix your smartphone to your head w/duct tape and a call comes in, the vibration mode can easily shock you into madness. Now you’re disabled on the side of the road, in the rain, AND you’re crazy. No good can come of this. Carry a compact flashlight. The list is longer, but again, the point here is I believe it’s prudent to consider what specific functions a multifunction device or garment replaces and whether or not it’s still worth it to bring it along. I am a huge fan of traveling light, but like anything else it takes careful consideration to do it right. I’m sure there’s a bit of the Old Man factor at play here as I do tend to get fond of tools that do their job really well, and don’t like to leave them behind. But, I do need to keep up. Pulling a trailer full of tools, spares and assorted gadgets “just in case” is not exactly what travel on two wheels is supposed to be about.
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FIRST RIDE • 2018 HONDA GOLD WING
MARCH 2018 • BACKROADS
TECH + STYLING - WEIGHT = FUN
Is that Rocky Balboa? He looks like a middleweight.
A
Ring Announcer - Rocky III
fter many years of anticipation the new Honda Gold Wing was unveiled back in the late fall of 2017; but we had to wait until mid-January to finally get to ride one of the most anticipated machines in a long time.
Few would argue that the Gold Wing, in its many incarnations and evolutions, has been one of the most influential motorcycles ever built. There have been over 800,000 Gold Wings sold worldwide and there are still some 250,000 of these machines running around the planet today. The last big upgrade for the Wing was 17 year ago in 2001. Back then the bikes were built in Marysville, Ohio and when they introduced the machine they did so from the plant in which it was created. Shira and I rode the then new Gold Wing around Ohio for a few days. We were instant fans. Here we were 18 year later outside of Austin, Texas taking charge of a leaner and sleeker bike with the same name.
Words: Brian Rathjen • Images: Kevin Wing, Brian J. Nelson
BACKROADS • MARCH 2018
At the very first glance of the 2018 version you surely know it is a Gold Wing, but closer inspection will let you know that not one piece of the 2017 was used in the new incarnation. Honda went tabula rasa here – a clean slate – and I dare say it was worth the wait. For 2018 the Gold Wing comes in four different flavors. The Gold Wing is much like the F6B – running without the top case - while the Gold Wing Tour is more along the lines of the previous Wings. You can also get the bike with Honda’s Dual Clutch Transmission and another with an Air Bag. Our ride this day would take us on the Gold Wing Tour with DCT, in Hawkeye Blue, and along a 200-mile loop in and about the famed Texas Hill Country. The Smart Key activated machine started with a light touch to the starter button and the nicely toned exhaust note filled the chilly Texas air. It was a mid-January morn and it would start off brisk, but niceties like a heated seat and handgrips helped ward off the morning chill.
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ENGINE The new engine for this bike may look familiar, but it is a big jump performance-wise over the previous model. Powering the new Gold Wing is a 1,833cc horizontally opposed six-cylinder, four valve four-stroke producing 125 horsepower at 5,500 rpm and 125 pound-feet of torque at 4,500 rpm - all controlled by a Throttle by Wire system. Although the new Gold Wing has a more conventional, yet new for the bike, 6-speed manual transmission (replacing the old 5-speed) our machine had Honda’s next generation 7-speed automatic Dual Clutch Transmission (DCT) that, once you are familiar with it, works beautifully. The bike has four different driving modes – Eco, Rain, Tour and Sport – all running just about where you would think power-wise and you can switch modes while on the fly depending on conditions or your attitude. In each of these modes the throttle, torque-control settings, DCT shift schedules, and suspension damping are changed making this future-tech even better. The DCT can be run as an automatic, letting the Wing switch gears for you. In manual mode,
Page 24 that is far more fun, it allows you to ride out of a turn onto a long straight while keeping the throttle WFO and running up quickly through the gears with the paddle shifters on the left side - like a Formula One driver. This makes the 2018 Gold Wing far sportier than any of its predecessors and we will see more and more of this on other machines as the years roll by. The bike has a Walking Mode that can be used forward (up to 1.1 mph) as well as in reverse (up to 0.75 mph). The new engine also utilizes an Integrated Starter Generator, using the same technology that temporarily stops and starts a car’s engine while at a stoplight. This saves a bunch of weight and is, as I believe with the DCT, the way of the future. Add into this Honda’s Selectable Torque Control and Hill Start Assist and you have quite the package being offered in the new Gold Wing and Gold Wing Tour. Honda has also tuned the exhaust note on the 2018 Gold Wing and this machine sounds tougher and more formidable from the moment you stroke the started button.
MARCH 2018 • BACKROADS We liked the sound a lot and it just adds to the charisma of this machine – it finally sounds like a motorcycle without being anywhere near annoying. Power-wise the machine has plenty of get up and go. While it might not be a cruise missile like the BMW K1600, with the 2018 Gold Wing the power is all useable, real world horsepower.
COMFORT Although sportier, and perhaps not as opulent as the 2017, it is still a Gold Wing and the saddle presented me, and copilot Shira, all day comfort. The bike’s new configuration has the rider sitting 36mm more forward and the pegs are pushed back a tad as well, offering a bit more aggressive riding position. For me this was a more relaxed position and one that offered me a more natural stance while riding through the twisty hills and dales of Texas. For the first time the Gold Wing’s windscreen is controlled electronically and the stock screen offers plenty of wind protection fully raised and a nice easy buffeting when lowered. Personally I like to look over the screen and the unlimited adjustments were appreciated. The fairing itself is more compact than previous models, but still extends plenty of protection from the elements. The new LED lighting is superb in every way and gives the machine a thoroughly modern look. Our ride headed up to the edges of the hills where we stopped for coffee and to take a break and compare notes a bit with some of the other scribes who came along on this ride. From there we got a bit more into some of the aggressive asphalt that the region for which the region is known. Although we know the Throttle by Wire is the way things are going I found the new Gold Wing’s to be a bit on the twitchy and sensitive side, but I got better at this as the ride progressed.
SUSPENSION & BRAKES As I said there is nothing from the old machine that will be found on the new and that is most apparent when you look at the front end. The traditional fork tubes have been thrown in the dustbin, replaced by a unique doublewishbone front-suspension system with a Showa shock absorber that has 4.3 inches of travel up front. Why the future-tech, you ask? Conventional fork suspensions move in a more diagonal way, due to rake.
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This Double Wishbone frontend moves in a purely vertical manner with less friction and with a confident and responsive feel. Along some of the rougher sections of the Hill Country we found that this new suspension did a remarkable job of keeping the bike planted and allowing for superior feedback from the road. Honda claims a 30% reduction in shock from bumps and road irregularities with this system and front end dive was almost non-existent. We wonder if this Double Wishbone suspension will appear in other Honda machines in the next few years.
MARCH 2018 • BACKROADS
The rear suspension is handled by a more conventional Honda Pro-Link system with 4.1 inches of travel; all this on a machine that has a saddle height of just 29.3 inches – making it useful for just about every size rider. Our Gold Wing Tour with the DCT weighed in at 842 pounds. Heavy? Yes - but a full 90 or more pounds lighter (depending on the version) than the previous models and the lighter weight of the machine really comes across on the road. We found the 2018 Honda Gold Wing offered a very confident feel and,
combined with the more powerful engine and the massive weight reduction, Honda has brought to the game a modern touring motorcycle that not only performs well but is a true pleasure to ride and a strong vision of the future. The more miles we put underneath us the more poised and sure-footed the Gold Wing Tour felt. Coming around one turn we had Mr. Armadillo stroll out of the brush in front off us. A soft squeeze on the ABS-equipped front brakes activated the dual Nissin six-piston, radially mounted, calipers mounted on 320mm rotors quickly and assuredly, scrubbing off our speed before coming to a stop - to watch the creature casually stroll by. I had never seen an armadillo alive – I thought they were born dead on the side of the road. The Gold Wing has a linked braking system and tapping the rear also activates one piston on each side of the front calipers. The 2018 Gold Wing was shod with Bridgestone Exedra Tires running a 200/55-R16 in the rear and 130/70– 18 up front which seem to work just fine on Honda’s new touring machine.
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INSTRUMENTS & STORAGE The large 7-inch TFT screen allows for GPS and Satellite Radio. Should you be sporting an iPhone, Apple CarPlay will run your apps and Siri right through the bike. On the way I received a text and was able to reply easily and safely – I guess the future is here. Our Gold Wing Tour had four good sounding speakers (the Gold Wing has two), but we easily paired our comm system on our helmets to the bike and ran the audio through our headsets. One thing that will raise a questioning eye on the faithful Gold Wing rider is the reduction of stowage space from previous Wings; dropping the total cargo capacity from 150 liters to 110. It will be interesting to see how both Honda and the aftermarket companies deal with this for those who demand and need more space. Sometimes I think we all pack too much on road trips as it is, but this will be an issue for many owners of previous Gold Wings looking to purchase the new model. Another thing you will find less of is fuel, as the capacity has been reduced by 1.1 gallons to 5.5 gallons. Still Honda claims 20% more fuel economy and a range equal to the 2017 version. Sometimes having more fuel is not just a good idea it is your only thought.
THE RIDE Our group eventually all arrived in the Texas town of Blanco, about 50 or so miles north of San Antonio. We made a circle around the Old Blanco County Courthouse that was built back in 1885 and took lunch at a local café that seemed to be hopping on this Martin Luther King’s Day. By this time the day had warmed up to a comfortable high 60s and things were good deep in the heart of Texas. That would change drastically later that night when a cold front with a se-
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rious attitude would give the Lone Star State a drubbing with icy rains, winds and hail and, unfortunately, parking us for the next day’s ride. But, for us, the best part of this day was ahead of us as we mounted back up and headed back in the heart of the Hill Country. We spent a bit of time in the area around Hamilton Pools – an historic and natural swimming hole that is about as picturesque as any in the United States. We need to come back when it is a bit warmer. The roads along the way were almost clear except for the occasional ranch pick-up truck or farm vehicle as we rode along the Pedermales River, an offshoot of the Texas Colorado River. Honda’s Plan A was to ride to Luckenbach and then to Fredericksburg for the night, but that pesky weather front was barreling in from the Canadian arctic and we knew that evening all HE-Double Hockey Sticks was going to break loose, serving up a rare Texas Ice Storm by midnight. Honda chose a sounder Plan B. This would be an excellent decision as all the roads and the bikes would awake the next day to a jacket of ice - never fun. Riding back towards the Austin City limits later that day we vectored onto some interstates to get a feel of the bike at highway speeds and then a bit of rush hour traffic – basically what real riders have to deal with dayto-day. The 2018 Gold Wing glides effortlessly at 80 mph, with the new chassis, suspension, electronics and engine all working in a wonderful synergy that rockets you down the roadway. Although perhaps not the sizeable machine it once was it is still a formidable highway ride and the miles go by effortlessly.
BACKROADS • MARCH 2018
OLD VERSUS NEW As the ride progressed I became a bit more adept with the Wing’s instruments. Although at first glance the switchgear on the left grip looks daunting, that really is not the case as I found it to be more and more intuitive as the day and miles went by. With anything like this there is a bit of a learning curve, but Honda’s was not so steep a climb. This became even more apparent when I took the 2017 version out for a short loop ride to compare and contrast.
I have ridden this bike for thousands of miles and the older GL1800 is a fine machine in every respect and for the ultimate in comfort and protection it is hard to beat. But the amount of buttons on this older bike now looks like the cockpit of an airplane compared to the sleek controls of the 2018. Although still a fine handling machine, its obvious bulkier size and weight were instantly apparent.
I have been asked to compare the two, so let me put it this way to the average Gold Wing purchaser… You could be in your light middle age, and perhaps have put a few pounds on over the years (Hey, I count myself in this illustrious group). You still think you are awesome, but the truth is that we are not as spry and fast, nor as strong as we once were. We should remember that, as it seems Honda has, but could actually do something about it. Honda put the Gold Wing on a healthier diet and had it hit the gym on a regular basis…and it really shows. With the introduction of the 2018 Gold Wing, Honda has created a sleeker, faster, better handling, more compact and leaner touring machine that should appeal to the seasoned Gold Wing rider and help bring in the younger crowd (albeit with expendable income) coming up and looking for something far more substantial than a sport bike with a tent and sleeping bag bungee corded to the back. MSRP for the 2018 Honda Gold Wing runs from $23,500 (6-speed) to $31,500 for the Gold Wing Tour 7speed DCT with air bag. The machine we rode, Gold Wing Tour DCT, listed for $27,700. You can find your 2018 Gold Wing at your local Honda dealers now.
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Dale’s Chilly Chili Run Through the coldest winter in almost fourteen years I couldn’t believe you kept a smile Mandolin Wind – Rod Stewart They say that when a ghost passes by you feel a chill in the air. I am not sure if that is true, but I do know that when every one of the riders who braved sub-zero temperatures to attend the annual running of Dale’s Chilly Chili Run in Ogdensburg, New Jersey this past New Year’s Day passed behind my chair at the long tables filling the hall at the Firehouse, I could feel the cold that radiated off them. 35 intrepid, or just maybe temerarious, brave hearts rode that day to the small northern New Jersey town to show support for the annual Blue Knight’s NJ IX gathering and ride. I thought long and hard for a number of good excuses as we drove the Durango over that Siberian morning, and only two words kept coming back to mind – Heated Seats! But our hearts were in the right place, we hoped, and watching those that did motorcycle over, well, as Rod Stewart somewhat sang, “I couldn’t believe they all kept a smile!” As always the proceeds of the Dale’s Chilly Chili Run benefited the Karen Ann Quinlan Hospice of Newton, NJ – a place that, considering its mission, is found on as beautiful and peaceful a setting as can be. In spite of the cold, this Blue Knight’s chapter – raising more cash for good causes than just about any other motorcycle club in the nation – still had 180 chilled souls with warm hearts show up this first day of the year. Along with the rural country lane police-escorted ride, the great dogs and chili, there were a number of drawings with the grand prize of a Honda Rincon Quad with plow, winch and trailer won by Jose Betancourth of Wharton NJ and many more walked away with Visa gift cards as well. It would not be right to pen this and not mention that we all missed our friend Nick Irons who passed away suddenly last year. Nick was one of the first friends we made up here in Sussex county and him not being there kept running through both Shira and my thoughts and we hope his ride west is a great one. Dale’s Chilly Chili Run is just one of many great and charitable rides that the Blue Knight’s NJ IX run each year – the others are just as giving and fun – the famed Gooch’s Garlic Run to the Iron Bound section of Newark on June 20 and the Make-A-Wish Ride on October 21. Keep your eye on our Upcoming Events for more information on these extraordinary events put on by an exemplary Blue Knights chapter.
BACKROADS • MARCH 2018
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS DONORHOSE • A QUICK FIX ON THE ROAD You are a prepared rider, right? Okay, so you picked up nail and spent the last 20 minutes repairing the puncture and it is all sealed up and ready to go. Well, except you, nor any of your friends, are carrying a pump or Co2 cartridges! Tire fixed, but no air… oh, oh. What to do, what to do...? Here is an easy quick fix that could, at least, get you to the next fuel stop and air hose. It’s called the DonerHose. The DonorHose is an air hose designed to transfer or “donate” air pressure from an inflated tire to a flat or low tire. Using the DonorHose you can transfer enough air from one tire to another so that you can limp back to civilization. It’s always better to ride to the nearest service station on two half-inflated tires than to push it home on one fully inflated tire, or to call a service truck. Or, borrow a bit of air from a number of friends and keep the ride going till the next fuel stop. The DonorHose is also useful for seating beads on tubeless tires. The DonorHose is a 5 ft. long air hose with air chucks on both ends. The hose has a braided exterior for strength and durability and, if you do not have room for a pump, you can carry the DonorHose for emergency air needs. $25.00 from bestrestproducts.com
KAROO™ STREET TIRES FOR ADV RIDES METZELER now extends its highly successful KAROO™ range towards pure road use with the new KAROO™ Street. Delivering excellent road performance, even in wet conditions, the new enduro tire remains aggressively styled, with its knobby tread pattern continuing to provide off-road capability. Owners of adventure, ‘enduro street’ and dual-purpose motorcycles are increasingly looking for sport touring performance when used on asphalt, but without sacrificing off-road capabilities. While responding to this market request, however, the METZELER KAROO™ Street maintains an off-road look, in character with these types of motorcycles, while delivering excellent road performance on both dry and wet asphalt. The METZELER KAROO™ Street tire has been developed for the latest generation of adventure, big enduro and dual-purpose motorcycles, capable of taking dirt roads in their stride. With the KAROO™ Street Tire these motorcycles will now be further enhanced to tackle distant road journeys, where good mileage, stability and comfort are fundamental throughout the life cycle of the tire. Look for a long-term review in a few months.
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Touring Morocco What life was like centuries ago Morocco Adventure Tour hosted by IMTBike words + images: Victor Cruz
with African flies. I saw my first donkey parking lot. These pack mules are used for carrying everything — from mint leaves to pelts, for pulling carts and for riding. You can draw comparisons to our own culture by what you don’t see. You don’t see strip malls or the mega chains that have homogenized America. You don’t see men wearing shorts, dogs on a leash, or obesity. I was surprised not to see more wildlife, such as turkey vultures, lizards, snakes or any roadkill, despite riding 2300 km under a blaze of sun. We saw stork nests perched high on minarets. Most women wear the Muslim head covering called a hijab, while the men dress in a mix of Western and traditional djellabas; they sit quietly in cafés smoking cigarettes and drinking glasses of sweetened mint tea. Mosques are beautifully inlaid with colorful tiles and mosaic. Armed police set up check-points about every 40-50 miles. They waved us through without hassle. Tourists in Morocco are treated with a hands-off policy, in support of the King’s directive to attract tourism. Everywhere, people wave hello. Locals speak French, Spanish, Arabic and Berber. Large displacement bikes are rare in Morocco, so our group of mostly Canadians riding 15 BMWs (mostly F700 GS) was a hoot to young boys sharply dressed in school uniforms who would run up and make the universal throttle-rev motion. School is not mandatory. Educated at Harvard and
On the road from Rabat to Marrakech a well-fed Moroccan beetle hit me in the face. Getting hit by bugs is nothing new. A bee once flew down my neck and stung me in the stomach. But this was an entirely new creature: after wiping off the beetle’s liquidity, the stench was horrific, worse than fermented dung, and the stink lasted inside my helmet for a quarter hour. Three days later I would be riding a camel in the Sahara, then climbing a dune while a wind storm that darkened the sky swept in to sandblast my legs. Where water meets the desert, Morocco becomes a land of contrast amid the sameness. Vast swaths of scrub and desert cake the land in monotone beige, giving rise to storied buildings in the same color hue. Rare signs of water from feeble rivers erupt the valleys in a profusion of green palm trees hemmed in by three bands of the Atlas mountain chain that towers to 13,000feet. To say Morocco and its bustling medinas gave me culture shock says little and a lot. It’s not every day you see a camel’s severed head dangling in an 11th century food market. Or slabs of chopped unrefrigerated meat buzzing
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BACKROADS • MARCH 2018
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married to an engineer, current King Mohammed VI issued reforms such as giving women the right to file divorce. Yet there’s still no free press (criticism of the King is forbidden) or tolerance for gays; violations have led to prison. Every hotel lobby features posters of the King: the King sipping tea, the King skiing, the cheerful King smiling. Like that dung beetle, every day colorful impressions made an impact. Riding through a town you see a man carrying a cow’s leg over his shoulder. A half-dozen denuded chickens swing from a cart. I came to Morocco to take a break from our Western culture, bending the arm of my friend Moe to join me. On the third night while visiting Jemaa el-Fnaa main square in Marrakech, Moe was run over by a reckless moped. We were in an enclosed tunnel-like alley dating back centuries, filled with vendors hawking wares of every sort. An old woman in a kerchief extended her palm, reciting a jumble of words; a coin makes her flee. A beggar sat with two sleeping babies, their feet blackened. Luckily, Moe didn’t require a hospital. The moped kid took off. A group of men gave chase as news of my befallen buddy traveled up the alley. “Do you want money for this?” someone asked. The road over Tizi-n-Tichka Pass in the High Atlas Mountains from Marrakech to Ouarzazate was full of twisties not for the squeamish. By New Eng-
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land standards, roads are well paved, narrow and in great condition. We rode past a market where men loaded up cars with live sheep. A man walked a black goat by its horn. Ouarzazate is the Hollywood of Morocco, with studios that have produced movies such as Gladiator, Babel, and Lawrence of Arabia. It was here where my pal Moe got blindsided again. This time by some nasty bacteria shipped directly to his gut via the tap water. It left him comatose for 48 hours, missing a ride into Todra Gorge, a narrow canyon in Tinerhir with walls that jet up 500-feet high. We lunched in a Berber home with a family of three generations. Every meal featured tagine, an earthenware cone-shaped pot used to cook everything. Vegetables, lentils, olives, couscous and chicken with cumin were common. Moe also missed a visit to the fossil fields next day in Erfoud and tea time with a nomadic family living under tents in the middle of nowhere. In Erfoud we stayed two nights at Kasbah Hotel Xaluca, a motorcycle mecca and training grounds for ParisDakar racers. The dining room buffet was abuzz with KTM, Yamaha and BMW teams towed in from Spain.
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Near the tail end of the week we traversed the Rif Mountains on roads tailor-made for motorcycles, where conifers and deciduous trees appeared for the first time. It was strange to encounter Barbary apes in the cedar forest at Azrou. A highlight was the stunning blue city of Chefchaouen where buildings are painted blue to ward off mosquitos, as local lore claims. (The area supplies Europe with 80% of its hashish.) The ride north from there to Tangier was spectacular, a road on a high ridge like many others in Morocco but this one left you stupefied with 180-degree mountain valley views. Tour begins and ends in pedestrian-perfect Málaga, Spain, with overnight stays in Rabat, Marrakech, Ouarzazate, Erfoud and Fez. IMT Bike lived up to its tagline, “passion for motorcycling.” Most days were long in the
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saddle. Clutches out at 8:00am, we’d clock 250-mile days at top speeds of 75mph, rolling us in around 5:00pm, ready for a Casablanca pilsner. Morocco is cheap. Bountiful family-style meals never topped $15. Haggling is commonplace and annoying if you don’t find humor in it. IMT did an excellent job with itinerary, restaurants, hotels, pre-ride briefings and attentive service. The only fault I can cite is that head guide Roger Falgàs didn’t stop for roadside apples (!) More than 1.8 billion people or 24% of the earth’s population identify themselves as Muslim. It was a real privilege to get a peek into this friendly Arab culture and to come away changed for the better. Visit IMTBike Tours online: iMTbike.com Victor Cruz is a 16-year member of the Yankee Beemers, serving as Secretary and editor, a longtime contributor to Backroads and principal of MediaPR.net.
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FIRST RIDE • 2018 HARLEY-DAVIDSON ROAD KING SPECIAL
They say timing is everything… and, the more time I spent on the new Harley-Davidson Road King Special the more I knew this would be a great machine for a run to the Jersey shore on a hot summer night. But there was the timing thing… and, the previous night a hard charging wind storm had driven lake effect snow hundreds of miles from Lake Erie to coat the grass and walkways of the northwestern Jersey region – far from the summer and the da beaches of da shore. Thus the chilly start to testing the Road King Special. Powered by the Milwaukee-Eight, a 1,745cc (107 cubic inch) engine the machine is very smooth – something that The Motor Company has strived for a long time and with this engine reached that goal. The 6-speed transmission is fairly smooth and the V-Twin offers great pull through the entire powerband, although the lack of any tachometer had me becoming close friends with the bike’s rev limiter more than a few times. The low seat height of just 26.4 inches makes this machine rider-friendly for even the shortest rider. Although compared with other Harleys, it is lighter but still a big bike at 783 pounds. On the road the ABS Reflex-linked Brembo brakes, featuring triple 300mm disc brakes, the front two featuring four-piston calipers that do an excellent job when it comes to bringing all this bike to a sure-footed stop. There’s a larger 19-inch front and 18-inch rear wheels (the standard Road King rides on a 17-inch front, 16-inch rear setup). The Special comes with Dunlop American Elite tires which worked well even in the colder end-of-year temperatures. We prefer the larger gloss black Turbine wheels. Our machine came in an attractive Vivid Black, which accented the classic styling of the Special and its blacked-out livery. The machine steps away from the classic chrome look of so many Harleys and the absence of any real chrome is a welcome look to me. The regular Road King is still available for those who love shiny bikes. This unfaired machine sports 9 inch high Mini-Ape Hangers that are a hefty 1.25 inches in diameter and offer great reach and slightly forward riding position when combined with the wide floorboards and heel-toe shifter below.
In front the vintage headlight nacelle uses dual halogen bulbs and has that strong beefy Road King look. The rear features sleek looking and stretched saddle bags that easily open and close with one hand. The bags are styled over the Special’s pipes that offer a great exhaust note and tone. Although I liked the look of the machine sans shield, I would have opted for the HD optional windshield for a bit of weather protection and for the fact that with the decent-size luggage and the Road King’s large 6-gallon fuel tank the machine would make a great long-range riding companion. (A ride to Daytona sounded good at this time of the year). Our Road King Special had come to us from American Iron Magazine, so the bike had a few extra Harley accessories that the mag is known for adding on their long-term testers. This Road King came with the larger front fender, engine guards and passenger rails as well.
On the road the bike was responsive, handled far quicker that we thought and the new Milwaukee-Eight engine just adds to the riding experience. Although they still may be called cruisers and tourers, the new generation of Harleys have greatly upped their game. These bikes have always been fun to ride, but with the new engine, suspension and brakes The Motor Company has just fine-tuned the ride. Now if we could get one of these machines around the 4th of July we’d be really happy. I know this place on Long Beach Island… The Harley-Davidson Road King Special comes in four color options: Industrial Gray Denim, Vivid Black, Hot Rod Red Flake Hard Candy Custom and Olive Gold. Our Vivid Black version retailed for $21,999. Find one at your local Harley-Davidson dealer or more information online: www.harley-davidson.com
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MARCH 2018 • BACKROADS
PRODUCT REVIEWS AND SPOTLIGHTS HELMET ASSISTED RADAR DETECTION (H.A.R.D.) SYSTEM v I think a little backstory is needed to understand why we are enthusiastic about the new H.A.R.D. System V Radar Detection Display. For many years now I had been using a wired communication system for my personal motorcycle, which worked fine enough but as time passed we jumped to more modern Bluetooth technology for communication – all of which worked well except for the loss of my radar detector’s beep. Many of you do not use radar detectors – I live by mine and missed getting alerts when they were needed. Let’s be square here, okay. We are not talking speeding through towns or riding in a reckless manner – but there are plenty of times you can be riding along with the flow of traffic and LEO decides today is YOUR day. Knowing that they are there is a good thing and most times if there is a strong radar signature in an area you probably should ride moderately and with a bit more awareness as there can be all sorts of factors involved (schools, hospitals, congested areas, etc…). I tried a few options but had a devil of a time getting them all to play nicely with each other and eventually gave up for a few months – hoping to see the bright arrows of the radar detector if it picked up a signal. Good luck with that. Then I remembered a number of years back a company called Legal Speeding had a “heads up” display that attached to the helmet and was visible along the eye port. I contacted them and found that Aaron Zimmermann, the owner and creator of the H.A.R.D. System, had evolved his system since we last saw it, and the newest one, System V, was smaller, lighter and easy to work with a gloved hand. Best of all, no more wires to deal with each time I donned my helmet. This looked to be the answer to my quest. The H.A.R.D. System V is made up of two components: a transmitter and a receiver and is an easy plug & play installation and operation. The tiny transmitter has a six-inch power cord with a male jack on the end. This cord plugs into the female power jack located on the radar detector. These male and female jacks look like those used on telephone systems.
Easy peasy. The H.A.R.D. System V transmitter has a female jack that powers the detector. A green light on the transmitter indicates when the transmitter is sending a signal to the receiver and all is working. I read through the directions twice (something that took me years to learn the hard way), plugging the H.A.R.D. unit into the appropriate jacks and turning on the unit, then powering up the motorcycle and radar detector. As it cycled through its start-up of flashing and beeping the LED receiver, now easily attached and fitted onto the side of my X-Lite helmet, began to flash. It was very bright so I moved it to a spot along the cheek pad where it would still easily grab my attention but not perform LASIK surgery every time I passed a patrol car. With it all working as promised I fitted the transmitter to an easy and dry spot on the dash and set off on a ride to the heavy radar signal town of Newton, NJ. I love it when a product works exactly as advertised and Legal Speeding H.A.R.D. System V does just that. On this particular machine we are running a Valentine 1 radar detector, on our other machines we have the very motorcycle-friendly TPX Detector from Adaptiv (also available from Legal Speeding) which we prefer as it was made
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with riders in mind. But, the great thing with the H.A.R.D. System V is that it will work with any detector that has an RJ11 style jack. The helmet receiver is unobtrusive and sleek – hardly noticeable. The system, which sells for $168.47, is compatible with most leading radar detectors and you can find out more on their website at legalspeeding.com ~ Brian Rathjen
SMART vEHICLE DIAGNOSTICS, LLC HARLEY-DAvIDSON CAN-BUS SMARTPHONE DIAGNOSTIC ADAPTER The on-board systems on today’s motorcycles dwarf the technology available just a decade ago. The current Harley-Davidsons are no exception. The latest models depend on a CANBus system to monitor operating parameters of the various on-board systems. CAN-Bus (Controller Area Network) allows the various controls and monitors to communicate with one another and assists technicians with diagnosing trouble codes in the event of failure. This is all well and good, but what to do when that engine light comes on during a trip when you may be far from home or your local dealer? Enter the Motorscan CAN-Bus Smartphone Diagnostics Adapter. This device allows the user to easily read any of the Harley-Davidson error codes, which can help determine the nature of the problem. The Smartphone Diagnostics Adapter is a plug-in device that pairs via Bluetooth to a smartphone. The smartphone app scans your bike’s systems and displays any trouble codes. The system allows you to search through all on-board systems and then scroll through the individual components of each. Simply click on a system with an error and see the description and trouble codes. The app also allows you to save and clear the trouble codes. If the engine light comes on when far away from home, you can email the trouble code to your mechanic. The adapter will transmit and display the various operating parameters of each system live or on a virtual dashboard. Fascinating stuff. The adapter comes with easy to understand instructions. Simply locate the on-board data link connector, plug in the adapter, download the app, register
Join Us in 2018
Patagonia, Peru, Bolivia Argentina and more! Visit our website for 2018-19 tour dates Ride through Bolivia, Peru and Argentina. Visit the full range of our beautiful and enchanting places and see our lakes, other-worldly deserts, Independent touring or guided tours with multilingual guide, mechanic and support vehicle. 17 Years organizing tours and BMW rentals. 80 motorcycles in fleet. World’s 2nd Largest BMW Travel Partner and Official BMW Dealer
the dramatic Andes, snow-covered volcanoes and, of course, the magic world of Patagonia.
email info@motoaventura.cl web www.motoaventura.cl
Fire Pit • Free WiFi Cooked-to-order Breakfast Heated Pool • BYOB
We welcome everyone from a lone rider to a full chapter
344 Route 100, West Dover, VT www.BigBearsLodge.com 802-464-5591
your vehicle and you’re in business. The adapter pairs to your phone (Android or IOS) via Bluetooth connection. Once installed, simply turn the ignition on, enable Bluetooth on the phone, open the app and the system provides you real time information on all the on-board systems. Since the example being used is specific to the latest Harley Davidson OBD system, it has 6 systems to monitor: ABS System, Body Components, Knobs (Hand Controls), Fuel Injection systems, Dashboard and Radio system. An overall dashboard showing speed (from the odometer), engine RPM, engine temperature, battery voltage, air temperature and oil pressure can be displayed during operation. The display is provided via a page with 6 “gauges” displaying the data. The system responds quickly with perhaps a one second lag between throttle position and the display. Each of the 6 systems has an expanded menu that allows you to see the position of controls and their operation. For example, the Fuel Injection system lets you see engine RPM, speed, engine & air temperature sensor voltage, throttle angle, throttle position sensor voltage and injection pulse rate. You can test different systems such as check signal operation, brake switches, clutch and kickstand safety switch. Hit the turn signal and you will see the display as “on”. The same is true for the clutch and brake levers. I spent about an hour going through all the systems, cycling lights on and off, pulling in the brake levers, blipping the throttle to see voltages and pulse rates change. The adapter gives you a real appreciation for how sophisticated the CAN-Bus system is. The app allows you to search for fault codes, save and clear them. The battery had been low on my Street Glide and after it was properly charged, the engine trouble light was still on. After I verified it was low voltage condition I was able to access the trouble code, save it and then clear it allowing the engine trouble light to shut off. While the Motorscan adapter allows you to view, save and clear codes it does not allow engine parameters to be changed. Only factory diagnostic equipment can do that. Armed with this information I invited Rob Schiller, the Parts & Service Director at Hudson Valley Harley-Davidson to take a look at the system. We went through all the systems dashboards and he agreed that Motorscan adapter seemed to be accurate and looks at the same param-
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MARCH 2018 • BACKROADS
eters as the factory diagnostic system. While the Motorscan adapter displays fault codes, and allows them to be cleared, the factory’s diagnostic software can see beyond this and show the frequency with which the trouble code appeared and was reset. Very helpful in troubleshooting intermittent problems. The Motorscan adapter provides useful real time information and can help put you at ease on a long journey should a trouble code come up. You can contact a dealer with the code and assess the seriousness of the problem. It can help avoid making a costly mistake of continuing to ride with a serious problem, or allow you to continue to the nearest dealer if it’s a minor issue. Retailing for $199.00 the Motorscan is available in a 4-pin version for earlier fuel injected Harleys with Delphi systems and 6-pin for the later models. Simple to install and simple to use. www.motorcyclescanner.com ~ Tony Lisanti
DENALI D2 2.0 TRIOPTIC LED LIGHT KIT When Shira’s new Suzuki V-Strom 650 XT rolled into the Backroads barn we knew there would be a few “must haves” installed on the bike. Engine guards, GPS, etc…One important addition would be a bit more lighting for both nighttime visibility and daytime conspicuity and there was no question that we needed to speak with the crew at Twisted Throttle about their DENALI lighting systems. We have been using the original DENALI lights on our BMWs and they have well over 150,000 miles on them and have never dimmed, blinked or failed. After a bit of back and forth we chose the DENALI D2 2.0 TriOptic LED Light Kit and their Universal Pivot Light Mount Kit ($65) to mount them on the Suzuki. Housed in compact aluminum pods measuring just 2.2 inches in diameter and 2.4 inches deep, the D2 LED lights are perhaps their most versatile design available; powerful enough to be your “primary” driving light yet small and light enough to comfortably mount on a fender. The DENALI D2s feature durable black powder-coated finishes and special cooling fins to make sure the LED itself runs cool and bright. New for the DENALI 2.0 series is a special Impact PC corrosion proof bezel that ensures your lights will continue to look great even after repeated stone and debris impacts. Low profile hinge mounts offer secure mounting and include stainless steel M8 mounting hardware for installation on light bars or model specific light mounts. The D2 2.0 kit uses a just-developed HotSwap modular wiring harness that, by default, causes these single intensity lights to function at full brightness. But if you would like them to operate at both half and full power, simply add the dual intensity DataDim controller. You can also purchase a three-position switch to manually control light intensity independent of the bike’s high beam. Also new with the DENALI 2.0 generation of lighting is the DENALI TriOptic lens system. Each lamp comes with both spot (installed) and flood (supplied) lenses, nothing else to buy. The spot lens produces the greatest beam distance (525ft maximum range), while the flood lens produces a broader spread of light closer to the motorcycle, filling the road edge and shoulders. To get the best of both worlds, you can use a spot lens on one light and a flood lens on the other light for distance illumination and a useful spread of light at close range. The hardest part of installation of the DENALI 2.0 was removal of the V-Strom’s bodywork. Taking plastic off for the first time is always a bit nerve-wracking – but soon we had a clear shot to run the DENALI 2.0’s wiring harness from its power source to the mounts up front and the gauge area where we would mount the switch. The installation directions were clear and concise, not in Braille as some we have seen, and offered a few installation options. We have been using a Rowe PDM60 Power Module for everything on this bike so far and it has worked brilliantly. This is also available from Twisted Throttle ($199). The Pivot Mounting Kit went easily down along the bike’s front fender, allowing for a clean OEM look about them. All in all it took about two hours from start to finish to do a good, clean and solid installation of Twisted’s DENALI D2 2.0 TriOptic LED Light Kit. On the road the lights throw down a good deal of extra illumination and I know I can clearly see the Suzuki in my mirror; where before it blended in with the rest of the traffic. Standing out is always better. This “must have” accessory is worth every penny and then some. As Twisted Throttle’ says….See further, be seen better, with DENALI! $350 from www.twistedthrottle.com.
20th Annual
Fall Fiesta 2018
Endless Mountain Excursion • Sept. 20-24 book early - rooms are limited
Thursday, September 20 Radisson Lackawanna Station Hotel
Fri-Sat, September 21 + 22 Altoona Grand Hotel
Sunday, September 23 Inn at Jim Thorpe
700 Lackawanna Ave, Scranton, PA 570-342-8300 • www.radisson.com/scranton $104 + tax (Backroads Group discount)
1 Sheraton Drive, Altoona, PA 814-946-1631 • altoonagrandhotel.com $119 + tax (Backroads Group discount)
24 Broadway, Jim Thorpe, PA 800-329-2599 • innjt.com $98-$148 + tax (Backroads Group discount)
Originally a French Renaissance-style train station in 1908, the Lackawanna Station has been completely renovated while keeping its history and artistic flair. Get here early and visit the Steamtown National Historic Site, Houdini Museum or just stroll downtown Scranton.
A great two-night stop, complete with indoor pool and fitness center. Saturday you can visit Punxsutawney Phil and ride through the Allegheny Forest, head to Horseshoe Curve and take the funicular or the 194 steps to the overlook, or simply enjoy the beautiful curves and sights this part of Pennsylvania has to offer.
Built in 1849, the Inn at Jim Thorpe is a perfect stop for our last night on the road. Within steps of the front door, there are shops, dining, live music and historic sites to fill your evening. If you arrive early, visit the Old Jail Museum with its eerie dungeon cells and mysterious hand print.
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MARCH 2018 • BACKROADS
UP C OM I N G E vE NT S CAL END AR
What’s Happening
EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTING
JUNE 2018
Every Tuesday • Two Wheeled Tuesday at Spiegel Restaurant • 26 1st Avenue, NyC. An eclectic gathering of motorcycles served with multi-cuisine meals. Kick some tires, have some couscous, enjoy the crowd • www.spiegelnyc.com • 212-228-2894
4-9 • Americade, the largest touring rally in the world, Lake George, Ny • For more details and registration online: www.americade.com • 518-798-7888
Every Tuesday • Bike Night @ The ear Inn, 326 Spring St, NyC Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-In, Augusta, NJ
MARCH 2018 2-3 • 8th Annual Modern Classics Motorcycle Show. Hosted by Martin Moto, 573 Rte. 100, Boyertown, PA. each year this unique indoor show puts its primary focus on the epic motorcycles from the 1960s through the 1990s. A carefully curated collection of 100 great motorcycles from the era. This year, as a special feature, The Modern Classics will also feature a sampling of motorcycles from every decade of the 20th century. Friday • 7pm – 10pm: The Modern Classics Kickstart Party Powered by Hagerty and The Grisafi Agency. Bike show, moto art, music, beer, wine, and finger food. $15 advance purchase online only (includes Sat. admission) www.modernclassicsbikeshow.com • Saturday • 9am – 5pm: The Modern Classics. Still just $10 at the door. Free admission for children 12 and under. More info: www.modernclassicsbikeshow.com 4 • Frontline eurosports Sunday ADV Ride. Assemble 8:40am; KSU 9am. 540-3879780 • www.frontlineeurosports.com • 1003 electric Rd, Salem, VA. 9-18 • Daytona Bike Week, Daytona Beach, FL • officialbikeweek.com 17 • Frontline eurosports Open House • 1003 electric Rd, Salem, VA 540-387-9780 • www.frontlineeurosports.com. 18 • Frontline eurosports Sunday Street Ride. Assemble 8:40am; KSU 9am. 540-3879780 • www.frontlineeurosports.com • 1003 electric Rd, Salem, VA.
6-9 • DIrtDaze Adventure Bike Rally, Lake Luzerne, Ny • For more details and registration online: www.dirtdazerally.com • 518-798-7888 9-16 • HeliBars Open House Week during Laconia Bike Week. 20 Industrial Way, Cornish, Me • 9am-5pm daily. Installs, shop tours, product specials. If you’re in Laconia for Bike Week take the short ride to Maine to see where HeliBars are made by American craftsmen and women • www.helibars.com • 800-289-1047 9-17 • 95th Laconia Motorcycle Week, the world’s oldest motorcycle rally, presented by Progressive, New Hampshire. For more details and registration: LaconiaMCWeek.com • 603-366-2000 20 • 31st Annual Gooch’s Garlic Run presented by Blue Knights NJIX to benefit Families of Children stricken with Illness. Sign in: 4:30-6:30pm; KSU 6:30p. Rockaway Townsquare Mall, Rt. 80/Mt. Hope Rd, Rockaway, NJ. More info: www.BKNjIX.org
JULY 2018 12-15 • BMW MOA International Rally, Des Moines, IA • for more details and registration online: bmwmoaf.regfox.com/2018bmwmoarally 14-15 • 42nd Annual Running of the Ramapo 500. Watch for details. ramapomc.org 28 • 21st Annual Kids & Cancer Benefit Motorcycle Run. Sign in: Zippo-Case South Parking Lot, Congress St, Bradford, PA 9-11:45am. $20/pp or 3 raffle tickets for $50. Cruise through the beautiful mountains of scenic northern PA, the Allegheny Natioinal Forest and southern NyS. Proceeds benefit individuals and kids and cancer programs. For more details: www.kidsandcancerbenefiterun.com • 814-368-2764
24-25 • Motorcyclepedia Museum hosts Hudson Valley Farm & Flea featuring Sweets Festival. 250 Lake Rd, Newburgh, Ny • $5 admission • hudsonvalleyfarmandflea.com
AUGUST 2018 28-Sept. 1 • 40th Wing Ding, Knoxville, TN • https://wing-ding.org/
APRIL 2018 5 • Morton's BMW Off-Road Training Day. Annual off-road training day at the Massey family farm. Riders from beginning off-roaders to experienced adventurers can benefit from this all-day session, which includes morning drills and afternoon trail riding, plus lunch and all the fluids you'll need. Details: www.mortonsbmw.com • 540-891-9844. 12 • Frontline eurosports Thursday Rider’s Night with Late Until eight hours and complimentary food (bustin’ out the smoker) to enjoy while taking advantage of Flash Sales. 540-387-9780 • www.frontlineeurosports.com • 1003 electric Rd, Salem, VA. 14 • Morton's BMW Spring Open House, 5099A Jefferson Davis Highway, Fredericksburg, VA 22408. Vendors invited to attend, family-friendly, all brands welcome. Complete info on the website: www.mortonsbmw.com or call 540-891-9844. 26-28 • 4th Annual Horizons Unlimited, Appomatox, VA. For those who dream of adventure along the road less travelled • horizonsunlimited.com/virginia
29-Sept. 3 • 115th Anniversary Harley-Davidson Celebration, Milwaukee, WI • www.harley-davidson.com/us/en/milwaukee-115th.html
SEPTEMBER 2018 20-24 • 20TH ANNIvERSARY BACKROADS FALL FIESTA. The endless Mountain excursion. Scranton, PA, Altoona, PA and Jim Thorpe, PA will be our homes for four days of Pennsylvania's twisties, histories and mysteries. Details on page 38 or visit www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html
POLAR BEAR GRAND TOUR 2018 It is not necessary to be a member of the Polar Bear Grand Tour to do these rides. Polar Bear cancellations & updates will be posted on the website • www.polarbeargrandtour.com • Sign-in is from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. unless otherwise posted. 3-4-18 • BAHRS LANDING, 2 Bay Ave., Highlands, NJ 07732 • 732-872-1245
MAY 2018
3-11-18 • LIGHTHOUSe TAVeRN, 397 Route 9 Waretown, NJ 08758 • 609-693-3150
4-6 • International Female Ride Day east Coast hosted by Garden State Girls Chapter of WOW. Tramontin Harley-Davidson, Hope, NJ • www.eventbrite.com/e/international-female-ride-day-east-coast-rally-may-4-6-2018-tickets-42000885780
3-18-18 • LONG VALLey PUB & BReWeRy, 1 Fairmount Rd., Long Valley, NJ 07853 • 908-876-1122
10-13 • 33rd Annual NCOM Convention • Mobile, AL. Host hotel: Renaissance Riverview Plaza Hotel. Special rates available, book by 4/19/18. Details and registration online: http://onabike.com/event/2018-ncom-convention
4-8-18 • BRIAN'S HARLey-DAVIDSON, 600 S. Flowers Mill Rd., Langhorne PA 19047 • 215 752-9400
16-21 • 20th ANNIvERSARY BACKROADS SPRING BREAK • It is time to plan for the return of great riding weather. This year will be the 20th Anniversary of our Rallies, and we hope to make it another great trip, with a bonus day at beginning and end • BOOK EARLY - ROOMS ARE LIMITED. Heading south to VA and WV, you can find all the details on page 38 or visit www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html
4-22-18 • PLUMSTeD GRILL, 457 Rte. 539, Cream Ridge, NJ 08514 • 609-758-5552
18-20 • Morton's BMW Spring Fling Rally at Natural Bridge, VA. Located in Virginia's scenic and historic Shenandoah Valley, this rally brings together great riding, good food, comfortable accommodations, and wonderful company at the Natural Bridge Hotel and Conference Center. Featuring vendors, scavenger hunt covered bridge ride, door prizes, catered Brats & Brews Friday dinner, catered Saturday buffet dinner and presentation, and more, all at one affordable price. www.mortonsbmw.com/springfling_2018.htm to register or call 540-891-9844.
3-25-18 • THe CHATTeRBOX, #1 Rte 15 South, Augusta, NJ 07822 • 973-300-2300
4-15-18 • THe HICKORy BBQ SMOKeHOUSe, 743 Route 28, Kingston, Ny 12401 • 845-338-2424 4-29-18 • CAPe MAy V.F.W. post #386, N.J. 419 Congress St., Cape May, N.J. 08204 • 609-884-7961
MOTORCYCLE TRAILERS DAYTONA, BIKETOBERFEST, STURGIS AND BEYOND
18-20 • Dover Moto Riding for a Cure. Full details on page 25 • dovermoto.com 19-20 • 5th Annual New Sweden 450 sponsored by the New Sweden BMW Riders. 450 miles of great back roads linked together in the tri-state area. The ride will take place over the course of 2 days, traversing some of the best roads in New Jersey, Pennsylvania and New york (and perhaps Delaware). We provide doughnuts and coffee during registration, free camping, a great dinner on Saturday night, prizes, a 50/50 drawing, a hearty breakfast on Sunday morning, and a finisher’s patch. Route sheets at starting location, directions will clearly indicate mileage, turns, and gas/eating spots. GPS uploads available (Donations accepted). This is not a group ride or a parade. Sign-In between 8:30-10 am Saturday, May 19th at Cycle-Gear, 2070 Rt. 70 (east) Cherry Hill, NJ 08003 and ends Sunday, May 20 at PJ Whelihans, 1854, Rt. 70 (east) Cherry Hill, NJ 08034. Pre-registration $55, day of event $60 (credit cards accepted). $5 discount for New Sweden club members. More info and registration: http://450.nsbmwr.com 25-27 • Charter Oak Rally hosted by Connecticut River Valley BMW Riders. Crystal Pond at Camp Nahaco, eastford ‘Quiet Corner, CT. Camping showers, pretty country roads, great food (including our famous Friday nithg chili), door prizes and an excellent reason to get your motorcycle out of the garage. More info: email rally@crvbmw.org • web http://crvbmw.org
BARN TRAILERS
SALES 718-426-7039 • www.barntruckrental.com RENTALS 57-05 BROADWAY • WOODSIDE NY 11377 (OFF THE BQE & LIE)
Sussex Hills Ltd. Stocking a full line of heated gear Make your riding season last all year.
Specializing in Motorcycle Repair, Parts & Supplies • Cycle Tires Mounted & Balanced • Batteries & Hard Parts • Dynojet 250 Dyno available for testing
973-875-2048 Norman Gross 946 Rte. 23 South For All Your Harley-Davidson Needs Sussex NJ 07461 Since 1976 3 miles north of Sussex Borough Our Reputation Speaks for Itself