W H A T ’ S
I N S I D E
MONT H LY C O L U M N S FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................3
About the cover: Mike Knott on a BMW R1200GS on Susten Pass in Switzerland. Photo Credit: Rob Beach
WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................4 POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................5
Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure
Publishers
Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil
Contributors
Dan Bisbee, Mark Byers, Bill heald, Lance Oliver Cheryl Stewart, Dr. Seymour O’Life
ON THE MARK ....................................................6 BACKLASH..........................................................8 INDUSTRY INFOBITES .....................................10
Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, nj 07822
MYSTERIOUS AMERICA..................................12 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ..............14 BIG CITY GETAWAY .........................................16
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WE’RE OUTTA HERE ........................................18 THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD ........................20 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE ............................22 INSIDE SCOOP .................................................24 UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ...................40
FEAT U R E S
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I KNOW THIS PLACE ........................................21 FALL FIESTA ‘18 ENDLESS MOUNTAINS......26 REMEMBERED IN STONE ...............................36
PRO D U C T R E V I E W S MOTOMICE BOOKS REVIEW ..........................23 PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS..................................33 WATERPROOFING YOUR BOOTS...................34 IXS RAIN GEAR................................................35
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BACKROADS (iSSn 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, inc. 2019. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. the written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. the Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.
BACKROADS • MARCh 2019
FREE WHEELIN’ BRiAn RAthjen
Brand new day And it seems like, yes it feels like … A brand new day Van Morrison By the time you read this it will be months past… Oh sure, we could have put this is The Backroads Report – but, that defeats the purpose here. It has been years now since we began saying the motorcycle industry has been paying more attention to the web and less and less attention to real riders and printed media. There have been a few exceptions – like when Triumph had a super event in mid-New Jersey in 2018. But, other than that, the industry seems to have all followed each other into the web. I would say it is all good, as we think social media and conventional print can work hand in hand, but it is looking like it is not - especially that some on social media speak out their asses and it befuddles us how the OEMs continue to kiss those same asses. We have ever-expanding websites and large Amazon-like suppliers, and although they certainly make getting certain products in a quick and thrifty fashion, they have crushed many of the small shops that have spent decades working with companies like Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki and BMW. Yet, the OEMs continue to walk away from these very people who made them – sucked in by the easy and quick lure of social media.
Page 3 Does the web get the word out? Sure. Do these sites offer a service? Indeed, but what is the eventual price of that and then where does it go from there? We all use the web, but you can’t walk into the web on Saturday around 2:30 in the afternoon, when you have a problem with your bike. Any real motorcycle shop will go out of their way to make sure it is all right and you are on the road. Why…? Because they ride, they know – they understand and they really want to help. Besides brick & mortar businesses have that true bike shop feel, smell and ambiance that the web will never be able to replace. It is a sorry trend. Along that line… the New York IMS dates seem to keep getting worse and worse each year and the number of attendees drop on a yearly basis – but the IMS and OEMs scratch their heads and wonders why? Seriously? Pre-winter dates do not seem to work in New York at least. Every serious motorcycle publication – and you know who you are - has written about this. But, is anyone listening in Japan or Europe? Milwaukee…you too! I think not. It is like the industry is trying to kill itself. It is obvious we need a tabla rasa. Maybe we should take a step back….? We need to go back to basics. We need to appeal to the general masses of American people. Let the non-riders know that riding is not just a good thing – but fun as well. We need new blood! Back in the ‘60’s there was one advertisement campaign that changed riding history in the US. “You Meet the Nicest People on a Honda!” It portrayed ‘everyday’ people – enjoying two wheels. It erased the Continued on Page 7
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MARCh 2019 • BACKROADS
WHATCHATHINKIN’ ShiRA KAMiL
your words Mean soMething I was doodling through some website and a word popped out at me. It’s a German word and, right now, I can’t remember the context in which it was used, but I did write it down as a word I’d like to use in my column one day. I get daily emails from Merriam-Webster with a Word of the Day. I have a file dating back 4 years with some of the words that have intrigued me and that I hoped to work into my vocabulary. In reality, I’d be lucky if I remembered to even look into that file, let alone use those words on a regular basis. So seeing this German word had me delve into said folder and you, dear readers, will now be subjected to a few of these more interesting parts of the English language while I write my thoughts for this month. As Bill mentions in his article this month, the past few weeks have been an anfractuous example of winter’s weather, but on those two shining days near the beginning of February, anyone who could,
and some who shouldn’t but did, headed out for a much needed pandiculation of the cables. I felt absolutely no compunction as I donned my trusty ‘stich and rolled out of the garage. The batteries were well tended and Brian had checked the tire pressures all around. My only concern was the state of the roads, as much sanding and salting had taken place and our friendly neighborhood Road Gods were not yet ready to take care of that situation. (An aside from another internet posting: There are actually 11 seasons – winter, fool’s spring (we are here), second winter, spring of deception, third winter, mud season, actual spring, summer, false fall, second summer and actual fall.) It is amazing what some sunshine and what can be considered warm temperatures can do for the soul. Yes, I did have my heated gear on, but found that it was superfluous. Once out of our squishy driveway, we took to one of our local routes that would bring us, eventually, for a wonderful lunch at the Elias Cole. Yes, we do mention this place often and yes, it is quite convenient for us to stop here for a delicious meal or simple slice of pie and hot, steaming cup of Joe. We want all of YOU to keep it on your radar should you be in our neck of the woods. Our appetites sated, we took to the bikes and headed, not too sprightly, over High Point, which was spotted with shady patches that may or may not have that elusive black ice hidden within. The sky above was azure and my mood was golden. Due to personal responsibilities, but mostly weather of late, it had been too long since I had been in the saddle. Intermittent visitations to the garage with kind words to the motorcycles do not quell the desire to take to the roads and explore. Trip planning can put me in a better state of mind while the inevitable winter winds howl outside. This was the ne plus ultra of weather gifts that could be received at this time for me. We scooted back in the general direction of home to take care of some quitodian errands. It always makes me smile when I see the looks I get from folks while I stroll through the store in my riding gear. Heading out, I saw a gentleman walking towards the motorcycles with a small smile starting to form. As we got closer he said loudly, ‘Great day to be on the bikes!’ We agreed and I thought that he might be one of the unlucky who could not play hooky on this beauty of a day. It made me appreciate my situation all the more. We continued on for a loop around Swartswood Lake. Heading into the early part of the afternoon and with the sun starting its downward run, I knew that this riding day was soon coming to an end. Heading through the woodlands, now barren, that surround our region I felt waldeinsamkeit. Even though Brian was riding in front of me and we were connected via Sena, I was in my own world, with my own thoughts and quite peaceful. Pulling back into the drive, with the sun reflecting off the glistening gravel, I shut off the bike and listened to its ticking, hoping that there would be more anomalies of winter before actual spring came to pass.
Dictionary: Anfractuous: rare Pandiculation: stretching and stiffening of the trunk Compunction: feeling of guilt Superfluous: Unnecessary ne plus ultra: ultimate Quitodian: Daily, ordinary Waldeinsamkeit: Untranslatable from German but roughly meaning ‘the feeling of being alone in the woods’, isolated, peaceful and reflective
BACKROADS • MARCh 2019
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POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BiLL heALD
the siren Call of a sudden thaw “Everybody talks about the weather, but many of these people don’t adjust their tire pressure in a timely manner.” Marlin Metzeler, Son of Ohlin First, came the rain. This was followed by snow, then freezing rain, then fitful winds, then really cold temperatures, then power outages. Sound familiar? It is our lot in a New England winter, and happened in my neck of the woods quite recently. The snow is one thing, but ice comes straight from the devil’s tank bag and it not only quells any though of riding but can suck a pedestrian into the turf with enough velocity to compromise the structural integrity of their personal chassis. But this amazingly weird winter has taken such hazards and added some devilment in the form of dramatically changing conditions, to the point where this time around the temperature shot up dramatically in just a few days. It was a thaw of epic proportions, which not only was very conducive to cleanup, it also made road conditions ridable for a few precious days. It is here were the really tricky stuff starts, because taking the opportunity to knock a hole in winter, if only for a short period, is really hard to pass up. But like every gift from the blue, there are things that warrant caution. This particular scenario was quite specialized, for once the higher temps made the roads blissfully free from almost all the ice, sleet and snow - more on that in a moment - they still sported all kinds of nasty hazards that required some very delicate riding. The leavings of this particular storm event included the
usual stuff like sand (there’s a reason why sand traps on golf courses are called “hazards”) and salt. A note on that last substance: sodium chloride and I are not friends, although I do like it as a condiment and it does go rather well with ocean water. But it can do bad things to blood pressure, and when allowed to lie in piles on the roadway it can actually be like sand in terms of foiling traction (in a weird, unpredictable way) and it is very cruel to manmade objects. It plays havoc with metal (rust) and fouls the rigging with aluminum (corrosion). This means a good clean after a ride is indicated, just to be on the safe side. The type of storm that delivers ice means there’s a few other pitfalls you have to keep on the lookout for, and this first one is primarily limited to a forested area like the one I live in. Ice is much worse than snow when it comes to pruning trees, and leaving all kinds of lumber (from kindling to telephone poles) on the road. This time around I saw some really scary stuff, like a castle’s worth of fire-starting materials at irregular intervals with pieces that were big enough to cause problems. Even worse, there was one particular curve very near my house, where in true cinematic fashion what was once a stately oak had toppled into the road, partially suspended by phone and cable lines making it appear as if a giant funnel-web spider was just waiting to gobble up the unsuspecting motorcyclist. This was a blind corner in the direction from which I was approaching, and our town had neglected to put even a single cone out to tell you there was trouble ahead. The First Selectman was notified but did nothing, and to think I voted for the dink. It still makes me mad when I think about it, and if I had not already been riding really cautiously it could have been ugly. Oh, and then there’s the nastiest part of this otherwise lovely escape from winter to enjoy a brief bit of moto-bliss. This is almost a physics-defying thing, but it is one of the nastier surprises you can encounter on a post-storm ride. When you combine the time of year when the sun is still pretty low in Continued on Page 7
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MARCh 2019 • BACKROADS
ON THE MARK MARK ByeRS
i wish When was the last time you got a bike and left it totally stock? Just put a tag on it and rode it in the same configuration as the day it was born? Probably never. I’m with you: there isn’t a bike in my stable that doesn’t have some kind of mod. Manufacturers have been around enough to know what everyone is doing with a bike, but they act like it’s a mystery. Or, in the cost-conscious world of sales, they think they can’t afford to include any “extras.” My contention is that if they did it right from the get-go, it shouldn’t cost much, so here’s my wish list. The first mod I make is a new seat. Someone told me manufacturers make the seat comfortable for five minutes in the showroom, which usually means soft. Unfortunately, soft is the opposite of what you want on a multi-hour ride: you want a firm seat. There’s a cottage industry that makes seats or foam-and-cover kits you can install yourself and one invariably makes it onto my bikes. Consequently, that’s my first wish: make new bikes with proper seats. If it’s a touring bike, make sure the passenger gets some love too. Amish buggies have LED lights. They’re light, bright, and consume very little power. Even the manufacturers who moved to LED lights for motorcycles invariably don’t put ENOUGH on the bike, especially for daytime. Bike headlights are now lost in a sea of cars with daytime running lights, so for daytime conspicuity, motos need MORE. For those of us who ride at night, they need a LOT more and it needs to be focused where we need it when leaned over, not just when we’re cooking chicken strips. That’s my second wish: ample, sufficient, effective lighting for both day and night. Use all the power you saved by going to LED lighting and give us a good stator that produces ample power for the OTHER stuff we typically put on our machines: GPSs, phones, radios, heated seats and grips, and electric clothing. I have a nice V-Strom sitting in the garage waiting for a Centech fuse panel to provide power for driving lights, electric clothes, heated grips, and a GPS. I had to choose my driving lights carefully so as not to overtax
the stator. There is no reason why I shouldn’t have some USB taps and highamperage sockets for my heated gear, grips, and lights. None. You can get USB taps at the CVS checkout for gawdsakes. Put some around the tankbag area. Speaking of tank bags, one should be standard. If you aren’t addicted to this piece of motorcycle crack, you should be. There’s no substitute for a place for the EZ-PASS, sunglasses, Advil, multi-tools, to things ad infinitum that you need to access quickly without having to dive into your topcase or saddlebags. With a tank bag, you might not even need those other bags for a day ride if you pack it right. Don’t forget the integrated, easy-off mount for fueling, either. This is an impossible dream, but give me a user-adjustable fuelling system. It’s the impossible dream because everyone from the safetycrats to the energycrats to the noisecrats thinks they know how our bikes should perform and they’ve choked our fuel and air systems to the point where we are getting flat spots in our torque and power curves, all because some emissions and noise nerds need to pass a test at 4,000 RPM. Damn if I don’t wish that we could fly our power flags to the fullest without the garrote of government strangling our fun. I’m not advocating for excessive noise, just enough flow to take advantage of what that beautiful combustion container can give me. Finally, give me adjustability. I am lucky in that I’m a five-foot-nine, fleetaverage ergonomic specimen, so most bikes come close to fitting me, but there’s still room for improvement. My BMW RT has a two-position seat. Add a set of repositionable bars like my old R1150RS had, along with sufficient cable and brake line lengths to allow for adjustment, and you’ll be talking my language. I will even spring for the new bars if I don’t have to add cables and brake lines. If I’m asking on behalf of others, include enough adjustability for my buddy Byrd, who is a tall drink of water, for Beth, who is a new female rider, and for Steve, a squatty old guy who wants to ride into his golden years. I wish I may, I wish I might, have the wish I wish tonight.
BACKROADS • MARCh 2019 free wheelin’
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vacuous Hollywood stereotypes and gave motorcycles a fresh look. Advertisements like this and the way the industry portrayed themselves came across in a good light. No… a great light! It was an impressive and growing time for the motorcycle industry in the United States. Not so much these days. These days it seems that every manufacturer will jump through hoops – pay incredible fees to get their bikes in the latest film or TV feature – even if it makes us look like henchmen and not the nicest people you would meet on a Honda. Every time I see a motorcycle on TV, the rider seems to have an Uzi and is shooting at the good guys or robbing a bank. They are not making me too proud. PostCards froM the hedge
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the sky, some trees, and some leftover frozen precipitation that, despite the ambient temperature, hasn’t completely melted away, lookout. Lurking in the shadows we have some black ice, which is something I hate almost as much as I hate flaming balrogs on rickety bridges. It is one of nature’s wonders, the way this stuff can camouflage itself as a harmless puddle of water, or even just a damp spot on the tarmac. But it is slicker than oil on Teflon, and can easily ruin your day. The good thing is it’s usually quite avoidable if
Yet, the industry lets this happen – and seems to be oblivious. So many of these media portrayals should be pushed aside and let the true and wonderful spirit of motorcycle riding come forth. Where is Jim Bronson when we need him!? Recently I was down at a small go-cart track in Virginia and spent a bit of time watching 7-year old Nathan Gouker and his dad doing laps on MiniMoto bikes. Wow – this kid was faster than I could ever be. So impressive. So much fun to watch. We need more of this and less of that. It is time for the motorcycle industry to shake loose the dregs and mildew that has grown on us. It is time for a brand new day.
you’re traveling at a slow pace and really paying attention. There’s something about knowing there’s trolls about that helps you deal with them should they strike. Here endeth the bad side of what is, after all, a little blessing in a bleak time of year. I’m not saying leave the bike dormant when these temporary gaps in the seasons appear; just realize it holds its own special challenges and, in a weird way, it’s own unique rewards. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I have to deal with another part of the winter thaw: mud. Don’t get me started.
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BACKLASH I purchased a subscription for my father and cannot remember when I purchased this. Right now he is riding a Kawasaki Versys 1000LT. What hasn’t he ridden - haha! My dad is 68 and has been riding since forever. He truly loves riding and when I was little I loved being able to ride with my dad. For fun my dad
MARCh 2019 • BACKROADS
Letters to the Editor two copies a month. Not sure what happened. I did try giving one copy to friends, but none would step up and buy the beer as compensation. Either I do not have very good friends, or I drink too much beer. Still debating this one with said friends. While we figure this out, can I please go back to only one copy per month. Thanks, scott Mincer Scott - Thanks for the head’s up. We’re pretty sure it’s the friends… Good day Brian, I enjoyed your Free Wheelin’ write up in the Best of issue. It’s pretty refreshing to see all kinds of rides/riders out together enjoying this like-minded passion. As for music, this summer I was introduced to a new music venue and played it in the food truck all season due to its diversity. It’s called “Radio Paradise”. You’ll get Allman Brothers to BB King to Modest Mouse and Mongolian Monk singing! Pretty awesome!! new.radioparadise.com/player Kimberly harvey Dear Brian and Shira, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU for listing our New Sweden 450 in today’s Backroads Report. We really appreciate it. Hope you guys are well... all my best, Phil levin
hangs out at the motorcycle shop in Fly Creek - Bennett’s. They let him test ride new bikes that come in. It keeps him young. It was funny, when I told him I got a response from the magazine he asked “was it Shira?” Then he told me all about what you ride and the great magazine. My Father loves it!! shanee lomauro Hey Backroads, Back in November 2018, I was emailed that it was time to renew my subscription to Backroads. I was happy to do it. However, I am now receiving
Brian & Shira, Glad to see the Madonna Inn highlighted in the Backroads Report #47 this weekend! We have great memories of staying there in 2006 on our first ride up the PCH. The Inn itself is well worth a stop if traveling anywhere near San Luis Obispo. Not sure who tipped us off to this - whether it be you & Shira or friends in Cali. The eclectic decor, pink button-tuck booths in the dining room and floor to ceiling stonework in the baths - it’s a cool place! tony lisanti
BACKROADS • MARCh 2019
Brian and Shira, Happy 2019 to you both! It’s been too long since we’ve spent time together, but life has a way of crazy twists and turns. I’m sending this pic of my brother David Newswanger, I think you met him and his wife Lisa on their GS along the ‘backroads’ somewhere. And I know you have stopped at his small MC repair business, Sport Motor Service in Newmanstown, PA, where he distributes Backroads Magazine. In December he had his left knee undergo replacement surgery, and a month later, the right knee replaced. He told me he is catching up on three years of Backroads Magazine reading! Thought you might enjoy this pic of him as he works his way through his pile!! I asked him if I could send this pic to you because I thought it would be cool to have published, and he approved but noted: “keep it low-key, I do not like to be the center of attention”. We wish him well, and we know his customers are anxious to have him back on his feet so he can re-open in late March/ early April! All the best… Joan Bowen Joan - here’s to a speedy recovery and return to the shop. PS - this low key enough? Hey Backroads, Please thank your friends at Nolan Helmets for spreading the word about MotoMice. So far the book is receiving wonderful support from folks directly involved in the MC industry who see it and recognize its potential for creating and supporting a new generation of riders. So far the average rider out there has yet to become aware of it. The publisher out west here, who was delighted to publish, it has no marketing $ really. So, if MotoMice is going to get seen and sell at all it’s going to be because of folks like you and Shira spreading the word. So again, THANK YOU!!! Lastly, thank you for signing me up for The Backroads Report. I decided that, after the house sells, and I sell my other two bikes (cruiser and a liter sport bike, both heavy) I’m going to get something smaller and lighter to knock around on, like a Ducati Scrambler or Kawasaki 900rs café, or …an adventure bike like Knobby’s. I’ll enjoy the reviews of those machines! Thanks again for all you do! Paul owen lewis
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IN DU STRY INFOBITES BIG APPLE MOTORCYCLE SCHOOL WANTS YOU TO RIDE! Make 2019 the year you learn how to ride a motorcycle. Come join the Big Apple Motorcycle School for a free seminar for new and prospective riders. The first one hour seminar will be Thursday, April 4 @ 7:30pm in Oakdale, NY. Second seminar is Thursday evening, May 2. This seminar is geared to people interested in learning how to ride. We’ll go over the different types of courses, bikes and gear and describe what’s involved in becoming a licensed motorcyclist. We’ll answer your questions and offer tips and suggestions on how to get the most out of your training. Whether you have little or no experience or have ridden in the past and want to get back into riding, this seminar is a great way to jump start your journey! All seminars are free and held at our
MARCh 2019 • BACKROADS
News from the Inside classroom in Oakdale. Pre-registration is required (call 516-639-9977 or email Diane@BigAppleMoto.com). Please include your name, contact phone # and email address. Coffee/snacks included.
ECUADOR FREEDOM BIKE RENTALS • LAP OF LUXURY TOUR Ecuador has emerged as one of the most exciting and intriguing destinations for motorcycle tourists with thousands of visitors each year experiencing its twisty roads, high Andes Mountains, Pacific Coast and Amazon jungle on two wheels. This 11-day, 1300-mile lap of the country is designed for adventurous spirits, curious minds and worldly travelers who enjoy the finest standards in hospitality while enjoying world-class motorcycling on some of the best roads in the Western Hemisphere. Riders are provided a map and GPS navigation system with preprogrammed routes for each day, a luxury, 5-star hotel to aim for each night and plenty of time to experience unique cultural and gastronomical stops along the way. Ecuador Freedom provides a fully-equipped adventure motorcycle or 4x4, plus a “Road Book” with thorough, day-to-day information including descriptions of local highlights, history, and “hidden gems” that aren’t common knowledge. Participants will use this information to tailor their days’ rides, including as much or as little as they like, all the while having the support of the country’s most experienced and largest motorcycle and 4x4 tour operator through the provided local prepaid cell phone.
The tour has opportunities for several off-bike activities as well, including the hot springs at Papallacta, visiting the Panama Hat Makers, strolling the cobbled streets of Cuenca, surfing in the Pacific and a traditional cleansing ceremony by the Tsachilla Tribe of the Ecuadorian Rainforest. You can ride it with any of their motorcycles or 4x4’s. Have a look and reach out to Freedom Bike Rentals should you have any questions. There is a reason Backroads’ returned to Ecuador. Now’s the time for you to find out why. Log onto www.freedombikerental.com for more information.
CALIFORNIA TO BEGIN ENFORCING MODIFIED EXHAUST PENALTIES As of January 1, 2019, a modified exhaust on an automobile or motorcycle in California, excessively loud, can no longer be cited as a correctable violation. Previously, if you were cited you had time to get it fixed in order to avoid paying the fine, but Assembly Bill AB1824 carves out an exception for exhaust noise by removing the opportunity to correct the violation and requires a citation to result in a fine only.
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AB 1824, which was sponsored by the Assembly Committee on Budget and signed into law by then-Governor Jerry Brown in June of 2018, does not change existing laws pertaining to exhaust noise or sale and installation of aftermarket exhaust systems, but rather amends how excess exhaust noise violations are handled by law enforcement. Beginning this year, a vehicle cited for violating the current exhaust noise law will no longer receive what is commonly known as a “fix-it” ticket. Instead, violations will result in an immediate mandatory monetary fine. The fine for a California traffic ticket for “a loud exhaust system” is up to $1,000.
DIRTY FOR GOOD WOMEN’S DUAL SPORT RIDING/TRAINING CAMP AUGUST 7-12, 2019 FLINTSTONE, MARYLAND DIRTY for GOOD is what you will do if you sign on for this Dual Sport Riding/Training camp. You will get DIRTY and you will do some GOOD for the Women’s Motorcyclist Foundation’s three new fundraising directives. The DIRTY for GOOD program is female focused. However, boys are welcome too, if they meet the registration and fundraising requirements. Each participant must raise a minimum of $300.00. One-hundred percent of funds riders raise goes directly to WMF’s three new initiatives: 50% will go to Final Salute, Inc., a Female Veterans Organization which helps female veterans with their transitions to civilian life.
TODAY’S MOTORCYCLISTS REVEALED BY LATEST MIC OWNER SURVEY We know that more motorcycle owners these days are women, and now we know increasing percentages of all owners are married and college graduates, and they’re generally older, according to the 2018 Motorcycle Industry Council Owner Survey. “Demographics are changing for Americans across the country and it’s no different for motorcycle owners,” said MIC President and CEO Tim Buche. “For decades, the MIC Owner Survey has told us a lot about who we are, and we’re now learning how things have shifted since our last study was done in 2014. Some of the stats are encouraging, like the increasing number of women owners, while other data, such as the rising median age, show where we have more work to do.” Gender • Age • Marital Status Male Owners – 81 % • Female Owners – 19 % Median Age – 50 • Married - 68 % College Graduate -24 % Median household income – $62,500 The owner survey also uncovered trends among the emerging group of millennial motorcyclists. More than half have taken a training course and use their bikes frequently for commuting. 69 percent say they are interested in electric motorcycles, citing fuel and the environment as top drivers.
Sept. 18 - 21 + Bonus Night Sept. 22 25% will go to the Women’s Coalition of Motorcyclists Train-the Female-Off-road-Trainer Scholarship fund. 25% will go to Youth Off-road rider training scholarships for those 17 years old or younger. For more information log onto womensmotorcyclistfoundation.org/events/
SCIENCE PROVES THAT RIDING A MOTORCYCLE IS GOOD FOR YOU! Motorcyclists have always said there’s no better prescription for stress than riding a bike, and now a study from the Semel Institute for Neuroscience and Human Behavior, at the University of California, Los Angeles, seems to confirm that. The recent study, funded by Harley-Davidson Inc., demonstrated potential mental and physical benefits of riding, including decreased levels of cortisol, a hormonal marker of stress. Three UCLA researchers studied more than 50 motorcycle riders in tests that recorded their brain activity and hormone levels before, during and after riding a bike, driving a car and resting. The bike ride resulted in a 28% decrease in biomarkers of stress, according to the researchers. On average, riding a motorcycle for 20 minutes increased participants’ heart rates by 11% and adrenaline levels by 27%, similar to light exercise, as well as their focus and alertness. This means the next time you are sitting at your computer feeling sluggish or that you get home after a long and stressful day, the answer to getting back on track or relieving some of the tension could be to simply go out for a ride…doctor’s orders!
Yes, Virginia, There is a Backroads Fall Fiesta Rally It took us a while to get this one together but here it is - 4 days spent in Virginia with an extra stay thrown in at the end in Pennsylvania. It’s a mixture of lodging options with some great riding in between. All the booking details are below and we’ll fill in the blanks as we move closer. Book EARLY so as not to be disappointed. WEDNESDAY, SEPT. 18 THUR-FRI, SEPT. 19-20 COMFORT INN BOLLING WILSON HOTEL 334 Caroline St, Orange, VA 540-672-3121 • $69 + tax Mention Backroads when calling Make your own way to Orange, VA to start your journey. it’s a quaint little burg with a selection of dining options as well as the home of james Madison’s Montpelier. the Comfort inn has an indoor pool for our enjoyment and sets us up for great riding to our next two-night destination.
SATURDAY, SEPT. 21 BEST WESTERN
SUNDAY, SEPT. 22 FULTON STEAM BOAT
170 e. Main St, Wytheville, VA 109 Apple tree Lane, Waynesboro, VA 1 hartman Bridge Rd, Ronks, PA 717-299-9999 • $100 + tax 276-223-2333 • $130+tax/night 540-942-1100 • $131+tax incl. b’fast Mention Backroads when calling
Book online • Mention Backroads if calling
Mention Backroads 1663 when calling
VERY LIMITED ROOM AVAILABILITY
For those joining us on Sunday, We’ll start heading north for our Wytheville is a great base for us to we’ll make our way closer to home next night’s stay. the beautiful explore the paved (and some not) roads through the George Washington with a stay outside of Lancaster, PA. roads in this part of Virginia. Perhaps a stop with a president and jefferson national Forest along there is something for everyone, for a bit of history and lunch along the border of West Virginia make from rolling country lanes to the the way. Or maybe a ride past for a pleasant day’s ride before technical twisty Claw of the Dragon. Raven Rock, one of Dr. O’Life’s parking in Waynesboro where we’ll After exploring, the Bolling Wilson Mysterious stops. the Fulton Steam find an indoor pool and some fine hotel makes a perfect spot to relax, Boat makes a great last night on Virginia barbecue at the Fishin’ Pig with its rooftop terrace and very our Fall Fiesta Rally. right next door. tasty restaurant downstairs.
DON’T MISS OUR SOIREE IN VIRGINIA • BOOK YOUR ROOMS TODAY!
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Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERI OU S AMERIC A the PalaCe of gold 3759 MCCreary’s ridge rd., Moundsville, wv 26041 • 304- 843-1600 • palaceofgold.com Backroads had visited the incredible site in the northwest corner of West Virginia a decade or so back when the late, great Jeff Bahr did a feature on it. But, as we are gearing up for our Spring Break Rally, which will spend a few days in McHenry, Maryland, not far from the border with the Mountain State, we will be having a great day trip to and from this magnificent citadel. But how did this incredible structure come to be in the western edges of West Virginia just minutes from the state of Ohio and the river with the same name? To learn this, we must learn about one man – His Divine Grace A.C. Bhaktivedanta Swami Prabhupada (1896-1977, who) is widely regarded as the foremost Vedic scholar, translator, and teacher of the modern era. Srila Bhaktisiddhanta, the leading proponent of Krishna consciousness in India during the early part of the twentieth century, first met the young man later known as Srila Prabhupada in Calcutta in 1922 and urged him to preach Chaitanya Mahaprabhu’s message of Krishna consciousness throughout the English-speaking world. After forty years of struggle in India to do this he boarded a steamship bound from Calcutta to New York City in 1965. At age sixty-nine, with forty rupees and a trunk of his Bhagavatam commentaries – the first ever in English – his aim was to introduce “India’s message of peace and goodwill” to the western world. During the last twelve years of his life, Srila Prabhupada would inspire thousands of Westerners and Indians to devote their lives to Krishna consciousness, launching one of the fastest-growing spiritual movements in the history of the world. Prabhupada founded the International Society for Krishna Consciousness (ISKCON). ISKCON is popularly known as the “Hare Krishna” movement. In 1973 devotees decided to build a home for Srila Prabhupada, where he could write his books and enjoy the clean country air. A location was chosen for its potential beauty, the land was cleared and construction was started on a simple house. The plan was a rough sketch drawn on a scrap of paper.
But Lord Krsna had His own plan. Somehow or other at each step the trial and error construction produced something grander than the devotees had imagined. What was first to be a simple residence for Krishna’s spiritual became, under the guidance of Keith Ham (a.k.a. Kirtanananda Swami), something else entirely as the humble house grew into a palace fit for a raja,… with crystal chandeliers, marble floors, stained glass windows, mirrored ceilings. Gold leaf and semi-precious stones accent its architectural flourishes. Surrounded by fountains, fragrant gardens, and a lily pond, it is utterly out of place on a backroad in West Virginia. Bit by bit, cemented, chiseled and forged, and with marble, gold and carved teakwood, costing $600,000 in
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materials alone and built with loving labor of the devotees - Prabhupada’s Palace of Gold emerged. The palace and surrounding area is so grand it has become its own town - New Vrindaban, West Virginia. Named after a city in India, the town is some 1,200 acres in size and is the largest such community in the United States. Prabhupada’s Palace of Gold opened in 1979 to positive reviews. CBS PM Magazine reported, “the magnificence of the Palace of Gold would be hard to exaggerate.” Life Magazine called the Palace “a place where tourists can come and be amazed.” The New York Times proclaimed “Welcome to Heaven,” and another newspaper stated, “It’s hard to believe that Prabhupada’s Palace is in West Virginia. In fact, it’s hard to believe it’s on this planet.” We couldn’t agree more – it is truly a stunning palace. Have you ever wondered what the Hare Krishnas did with all that spare
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change they begged at America’s airports? Now you know. Prabhupada envisioned New Vrindaban as an attraction for pilgrims and the curious, and visitors are always welcome at the Palace of Gold. You can either be guided by one of the Krishnas or just walk around (after removing shoes or slipping on a pair of complimentary booties). You’ll certainly enjoy it more than Prabhupada himself, who died two years before it opened on September 2, 1979. Another interesting note from the Palace of Gold is its visionary, Keith Ham; he was later accused of child abuse and contract murder, kicked out of Krishna, and ended up in prison in North Carolina for racketeering. Ooops. Around the town itself, you will find other temples, statues, and points of interest all adding up to an interesting and fun day trip on our Spring Break. We hope to see you come along for the ride. Gouranga!
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G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN Candy’s Country Café 2423 rte. 57, stewartsville, nJ 08886 • 908-213-1889 Candy’s Country Café is one of those places that, if you did not know it was there and were on the lookout for, you might zip while riding on Route 57 east of Washington and west of Easton. And, if you were looking for a superb breakfast or scrumptious lunch, that would be a sad thing and, in truth, your loss. We found Candy’s by chance on a slightly warm early February Sunday when we were called by our friends Bob and Brad, from the Philly area, to see if we were interested in meeting for a late breakfast or lunch. A little research introduced us to Candy’s and plans were quickly made. Candy’s Country Café is a cozy restaurant that, at the time, was still in Holiday-mode with Christmas decorations and flair adorning the walls and shelves. We asked if the holidays lasted all year and were told they would probably come down after Valentine’s Day – just to keep with the mostly red theme. Okay…, still it added to the genuine warmth of the place. The staff were young and energetic and were always there to refill your coffee and to make sure the orders came out quickly – which they did and between the four of us, we ordered well and across the breakfast board. But we’ll get to that in a second. Let us first take a look at some of the other offerings they will happily serve up.
tasty places to take your bike
They have seven different sandwiches with meats including ham, bacon, sausage and pork roll. (Hey, this is Jersey – Taylor ham!) Two that stood out were the Candy Crunch: a sandwich that has two eggs, your choice of meat, your choice of cheese (American, provolone, mozzarella, Swiss, cheddar, cream or feta) and crunchy hash browns on a super Kaiser roll and The Broadway: basically a BLT with eggs and mayo on the same roll. Their ‘Morning Favorites’ include The Big Breakfast, which is just that, with three pancakes, three eggs any style, meat, home fries, hash browns, and toast. Like all great New Jersey places the coffee cups are bottomless. You will also find SOS, better known as cream chipped beef, and there is a sizzling’ steak breakfast that should do the trick to any hard-core carnivore. Candy’s Country Café’s “Hearty Breakfast’ offers two eggs and all that goes with it and your choice of chopped sirloin steak, corned beef hash, strip steak or Polish kielbasa! Yummy. They also have what they call The Oddessy: a cheese crust - like a light cheesy pizza or pita - topped with scrambled eggs, roasted red peppers, onions, sausage, and cheddar cheese. Knowing what Shira was ordering, and that she would never finish it (thus becoming my second course by default), I went for The Oddessy!
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Page 15 Roll out the defibrillator. Candy’s does lunch as well, but we will have to save that for another day. A quick look at the lunch menu showed club sandwiches, burgers, salads, and basket favorites as well. Basically, in our minds, Candy’s Country Café is a neat little place, found in the middle of nowhere in particular, on the main road running east from Easton and is well worth seeking out when riding through the region or exploring the great backroads that Warren County, New Jersey has to offer. Enjoy Candy’s and the 75-mile one-way Rip & Ride we have created to get you there. It starts at the top – High Point State Park in Sussex County, New Jersey - and will wind its way to Candy’s in a most mirific way. There is also a waterfall detour – but on an easy gravel road. After the falls you can continue on back to the road – but it becomes VERY rough - or you can simply backtrack on the easy gravel and continue on the GPS Route. Find the Rip & Ride® on Page 39
Shira had chosen one of the Breakfast Specials called the Breakfast Monte – two eggs, sausage patty and American cheese layered between a stack of French toast. Ahh, the French and Americans have not worked so well together since Yorktown! Remarkably Bob got a Benny – poached eggs on toasted English muffin with cheddar. They have five from which to choose: ham, spinach, pork roll (Taylor ham, dammit!) sausage, or two simply poached. On Brad’s side of the table was a garden skillet that sounded a bit too healthy and after we all slightly smirked at him he made up for it by ordering a slab o’ scrapple for the table. Ahh…. scrapple… the American haggis! In truth, Brad’s veggie creation looked way too good! Candy’s Country Café has fifteen omelets – fifteen! Each one looked great and they ran from the usual suspects to a few a bit different such at the Porkolator, created with pork roll (Ugg…Taylor ham), ham, bacon, sausage, and cheese to make sure it gets right to the aorta, and the Monster, five eggs with seven fillers of your choice.
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Frontline Eurosports Presents
B IG CITY GETAWAY
daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind
the CaMera heritage MuseuM 1 w Beverley st,, staunton, va 24401 540-886-8535 • www.CaMeraheritageMuseuM.CoM Funny how things can develop. Yes…bad pun. Last year we pulled into the small city of Staunton in the late afternoon and we missed getting a chance to take in The Camera Heritage Museum, one of the only museums dedicated to the camera in the United Sates, by just minutes. Curses! That being so, when Backroads made our overnight plans for last year’s Spring Break, I suddenly found myself pushing for Staunton. Sure there was a great hotel, the Stonewall Jackson, a Shakespeare theatre, an auto museum – not to mention a number of great restaurants – but for me it was about The Camera Heritage Museum. I have been a camera fan for decades, having owned everything from Kodak instamatics to full size 8 X 10 view cameras. Shira and I met because of photography. So, stopping into this museum was a must. There are not many open camera museums in the USA since collections are often private. Collector and camera history maven David Schwartz wanted to change this and has opened his own collection to the public so that everyone has an opportunity to view these historical treasures. It is amazing. The Camera Heritage Museum houses a unique collection, over 6,000 strong, of cameras dating from the 19th century to modern times – many of which are antiques, one offs, or very rare and of significant historical provenance. General Erwin Rommel’s own camera is here next to a photograph of him holding the same.
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BACKROADS • MARCh 2019 The Camera Heritage Museum showcases many photographers who have lived in the area. The first photographer in the area practiced his art in 1847, just 9 years after the beginning of photography in Paris. The son of one of the town’s local photographers, Barnett Clinedinst, became the White House photographer for presidents Teddy Roosevelt, Taft and Wilson. They also showcase Washington Star, LA Times, U.S. Senate, Official White House and President Ronald Reagan’s personal photographer Bernie Boston. But, it was the odd and rare cameras that I came to see and was not disappointed. A Russian spy gun camera, along with an array of miniature spy cameras, a wonderful and fairly complete collection of ‘brownies” and historic oddities such as an 1895 Chelsea Flash Pistol. This flash pistol enabled a photographer to get extra light for photographs in early photography. The round bowl would hold flash powder, which would be ignited when the trigger was pulled. There is a Folmer Graflex Baseball Camera, from the 1920’s. This camera was designed for use as a telephoto sports camera. It is 40” long by 22” high, weighing over 30 lbs. This was used back when baseball really was the true national pastime. David has more Leica cameras in one place than I have ever seen in my life. Outstanding! There was a camera that probably took more images that you are familiar with than you would know – the Nikon F1 with a huge motor drive from the late 1950s.
Page 17 All those images from the turbulent 60’s and the Vietnam War and the Beatles were most likely taken with a Nikon F1. In truth there were far too many cameras to see in a short time. The one problem with The Camera Heritage Museum is that it is crammed into a rather small space for such a magnificent collection. The thought I walked away with was that David Schwartz needs a much, much bigger space… and that might happen. The Camera Heritage Museum has the opportunity to acquire the P. Buckley Moss Museum building in Waynesboro. The beautiful building was originally built as a museum, so it would not require a lot of renovation for the museum’s purposes. Please consider making a difference by contributing to the success of the museum. Because they are a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization, any monetary donation will be tax-deductible. If you would like to donate to the Camera Heritage Museum, please visit their donations page on their website or send a check to The Camera Heritage Museum, 1 West Beverley Street, Staunton, VA 24401.
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WE’RE OUTTA HER E
a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads
Mark Byers
norMan’s footstePs • staying in roCKwell’s hoMe There’s a gently-curved walk from the back porch to the artist’s studio, made from stones set into the ground as if grown there. Betsy and I sat on the porch, sipping wine and eating local cheddar and apples as the waning sunlight painted the Vermont sky. Looking down the walk to the barn-red studio with the big, light-gathering windows, I wondered how many times Norman Rockwell trod those stones in the ten years he lived there. Pipe alight, he walked the hundred yards to the studio where he created such timeless masterpieces as “Rosie the Riveter” and “The Four Freedoms.” I wonder if it was as peaceful then as it is now, disturbed only by the occasional passing of a car or the soft sounds of the neighbor’s livestock. After our repast, we strolled down to the classic, white New England church and the red
covered bridge, both of which can be seen through the old, wavy glass in the window of our room in the Master’s suite. The house dates to 1792 and the bridge 1852, both well before Rockwell moved there. I tried to imagine him standing at that window, looking out at the bridge for inspiration. We took photos in the fading light. Kids from the nearby house were playing in the
water under the bridge and two horses nuzzled each other in the pasture. It was easy to see from where Rockwell, who frequently used his neighbors as models, got his subjects and how the bucolic Vermont setting lent itself to his illustrations. Situated about halfway between Bennington and Manchester, “The Norman Rockwell Studio and Inn” was the artist’s home from 1943 to 1953 he main house consists of six rooms, including the Rockwell Suite in which we stayed. There is a small, converted barn that Rockwell’s son Jarvis – an artist of the modern genre –
used briefly and which is now called “The Honeymoon Cottage.” Then there’s Norman’s studio, with two bedrooms, a kitchenette, and upper and lower porches. In the studio, you can still see the marks in the floor where Rockwell cut his canvasses. The rooms in the house each have baths, most with Jacuzzi tubs. While the bathrooms are modern, the majority of the house has the characteristics and quirks of a late-1700’s farmhouse. It is furnished to match, with large four-poster beds and antique furniture. The house has a large sitting area, re-
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plete with books, puzzles, and Rockwell family photos showing the artist in residence. Just inside the front door, there’s a dining room where a basic, but tasty breakfast is served. The innkeeper, Clint Dickens, is a very nice fellow but because he runs the place by himself, he’s also very busy. If you are the kind of person who needs to be fussed over continuously by a solicitous host, it may not be for you. If you need something, Clint will provide it but you may need to be patient while he attends to the numerous demands of guests, an old house and outbuildings, and large grounds. If, however, you are fairly self-sufficient
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and more interested in the historic and cultural ethos of the place, then you may find The Norman Rockwell Studio and Inn very much to your liking. Cross the bridge and go down the road a mile to see Nancy at the Wayside General Store. Get some wine, cheese, and apples or sample the store’s excellent sandwiches and local Fortuna’s sausage. Then sit on the porch and transport yourself to a simpler time, when barefoot kids played under the bridge and Norman’s footsteps echoed on that walk. You’ll be glad you did.
the norMan roCKwell studio and inn (forMerly the inn on Covered Bridge green) 3587 river road, arlington, vt 05250 802-375-9489 • www.normanrockwellstudio.com
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T H OU G H T S FROM THE RO AD NYC CONGESTION TOLLING? Motorcycles are not the problem, but could be the solution! As you may have heard, Governor Cuomo continues to advocate for Congestion Pricing, now rebranded as Congestion Tolling, in the Central Business District of Manhattan. His proposed budget includes provisions for a hefty charge, possibly $11.50, for any vehicle entering Manhattan below 60th St. The stated goal of Congestion Tolling would be to reduce traffic in Manhattan, and to fund the MTA to improve subway service. We contend that our fuel-efficient, congestion-reducing vehicles should be exempt from all congestion tolls as is done in London, Milan, and other cities where our lightweight vehicles are recognized as potent tools for combatting urban congestion. We're part of the solution. Last year we were assured by members of the Governor's Transportation Team that we would not be charged the same rate as cars in any future Congestion Tolling scheme, but the Governor's current proposal doesn't even offer us a discount, much less a full exemption. If enacted, NYC will be the first US city with Congestion Tolling. Los Angeles's Metro Board discussed a Congestion Pricing proposal in January. It didn't get much support at the time, but that could soon change. The rest of the country will be watching what we do. Let's make sure we get this right. We'll be meeting with key legislators over the next month with the goal of convincing them to exempt all two-wheeled vehicles from any Congestion Tolling in NYC. If you live in NY State please take action in this important time period while the budget is being hammered out. How you can help: If you live anywhere in NY State, please call or write your representatives and let them know you support exempting two-wheeled vehicles from congestion tolling. Do you live in or around Yonkers/White Plains in Andrea Stewart-Cousins 35th District? If you're willing to accompany us to meet with your Senator, please let us know. To find your Senator go to the below page and click the button on the right- ‘Find Your Senator'- and type in your street address: www.nysenate.gov/registration/nojs/form/start/find-my-senator Do you live in or around the northern Bronx in Carl Heastie's 83rd District? If you're willing to accompany us to meet with your Assemblymember please let us know. www.nyassembly.gov The AMA is behind us and has sent out an action alert which automatically sends the message to the Governor and your representatives. Please sign and send the alert! Finally, we'll be sending another petition to the Governor. If you already signed one last year, please sign again this year. Thank you, and I hope to hear back from some of you soon.
Cheryl Stewart • cstewart@bway.net Riders Against Congestion • NYMSTF • Sirens Women’s MC
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I Know This Place Mabry Mill Milepost 176.1 Blue Ridge Pkwy Virginia If you have ever ridden the length of the Blue Ride Parkway, high above the Shenandoah Valley, than you will probably be familiar with the focus of this article. It is rare to stop at the famed Mabry’s Mill without dealing with a taste of the crowds which can fill the parkway at times. But, on occasion, you can luck out and almost have the historic mill to yourself. Such was the case when we were last down this way. Storms had pelted the region all week and, even though it was a Saturday the Parkway was empty and Mabry’s Mill all but deserted. Lucky us, for this time we took a tour of the entire place and got a great look at how things worked and why Mabry’s Mill is not just a pretty spot to take pictures on the Blue Ridge, but a huge part of the local history and color as well. When Edwin Boston Mabry (18671936) built his water powered mill in Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains over 100 years ago, he had no way of knowing it would become one of the most photographed places in the United States. The mill, on the Blue Ridge Parkway at milepost 176.1, draws several hundred thousand visitors each year. The gristmill and sawmill have been restored by park naturalists so visitors might see live exhibits, a real mill, and a working miller to demonstrate the milling process. The grounds of the mill include other interpretive media all designed to tell about mountain industry. Matthews Cabin is an outstanding example of mountain architecture and workmanship and offers an intriguing look into the tanning and shoe making crafts. There is also a whiskey still, a sorghum mill and a working blacksmith
Page 21 shop. Mabry Mill was a community center for the Meadows of Dan area when it operated as a gristmill and sawmill. The mill had a lack of waterpower, earning it a reputation as a “slow mill,” but because of this, the mill would not grind too fast or scorch the corn, which resulted in the Mabry’s Mill being known for producing some of the finest tasting corn meal in the region. Knowing this we walked up along the old wooden races that carried the water they had to the mill. They seemed to stretch forever as they disappeared into the deep and verdant forest.
Mabry would eventually construct a sawmill and woodworking shop alongside the gristmill, and a number of the tools he used in the shop were powered by the waterwheel. We were amazed that the mill’s water wheel would be used for so many different things, depending on what Mabry needed at the time. It was like the old-time version of today’s power tools that all use the same battery-packs. He would go on to build a nearby blacksmith shop as well. With all this going on at the mill made it a very popular place and we are very lucky that this has survived the years while so many other great examples of American history have been razed and paved. Mabry’s Mill is well worth the stop and the explorations – if you are on the BRP it is hard to miss.
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The Law Office of Paul G. Gargiulo Presents
Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival Lance Oliver
My risK is sensiBle, yours is not It wasn’t the first time I’ve heard it. At a recent track day, one of the instructors told me, “I don’t ride on the street. It’s too risky.” Here was a highly skilled rider, more capable than most of us at handling the dangers and variables and surprises that street riding throws at us, and he concluded it just wasn’t worth it. It’s not a good idea to argue with your instructor at a track day, any more than you want to annoy your dentist while you’re sitting in his chair. And, I’ll admit, there’s a nugget of truth in what he said. But that nugget of truth is dwarfed by a boulder-sized human blind spot. It’s true that a track day is safer than the street, if everyone rides smart, keeps egos in check and doesn’t let — as Casey Stoner once said to Valentino Rossi — ambition outweigh talent. No gravel in the turns, no left-turning cars, nobody texting while driving.
But, that’s just part of the story. This instructor, like most, had done some racing in his day. I know of nobody who has raced competitively for many years and not been injured. I know plenty of riders who have ridden on the street for 20 or 30 years without injury. So if this person felt the risk of racing was acceptable, why not the risk of street riding, which is demonstrably less? And that’s where we get into an age-old human blind spot. From psychologists to hedge fund managers some smart people who have studied the issue have found that humans are not very good at gauging risk. What we fall back on, then, is assuming the risks we are used to are lesser. For Valentino Rossi, the risk of charging into turn one at the Circuit of the Americas at the edge of traction on a 250-horsepower MotoGP bike amid a crowd of highly competitive racers who desperately want to pass him is a regular occurrence. There’s risk, of course, but he manages it without hesitation. For me, that scenario would result in a 100 percent failure rate to make it through the turn. That’s unacceptable risk by any standard. Racers, and former racers like my track-day instructor, are used to those kinds of risks. But, when there’s a car coming in the other direction? Perhaps driven by a teen who is texting his friends while driving? That’s when I think of someone like Eric Trow, the Stayin’ Safe Advanced Rider Training instructor, who has spent years focusing on the risks of street riding and has multiple strategies for anticipating and avoiding them. The street, to him, is like turn one, to Rossi. It’s a normal (but not admirable) human reaction to take the attitude that whatever risks we are comfortable with are reasonable risks, and anything beyond that is stupid. The ATGATT (All The Gear, All The Time) purist looks at the guy wearing a helmet, but no gloves, jacket or riding pants, as foolish, while the guy in the helmet looks at the rider in shorts and flip-flops and considers him an idiot. Meanwhile, some non-riders who know nothing about motorcycles look at all motorcyclists, from Mr. ATGATT to Joe Flipflops, as one big homogeneous group of death-wish organ donors who must want to die, because why else would they ride those things? What’s my point? (Yes, I do have a point.) It’s this: I believe there’s only one way we can all live in relative harmony and that’s by following these three simple rules: Make informed decisions about risk, choose the level of risk that’s right for you, and respect that others will make different choices. Your choices are your choices, not universal truths, so don’t try to force them on others. Setting an example is always better than preaching or criticizing. The chance to answer questions from a person who genuinely wants to learn is a rare and golden opportunity not to be squandered. If you have wisdom, share it when asked for it. If you choose a risk level and it all goes wrong, leading you to the conclusion that you made a bad decision, take responsibility for your actions, don’t whine and blame others, don’t hurt innocent third parties and clean up your messes after yourself. If we all did those three things, most of our problems would disappear. Meanwhile, see you on the road, the track and anywhere else I can ride, for as long as I can keep doing it. Reprinted Courtesy of Revzilla’s Common Tread
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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
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MOTOMICE BY PAUL OWEN LEWIS
The dominating discussion in the motorcycle industry these days is the need to bring young people, kids and new riders into the sport. We think this has to start from the earliest of ages. Letting little ones (and big ones who might have forgotten or never known) know that there are so many different types of motorcycles, and that riders can be quite varied as well, is important too. We recently were given Paul Owen Lewis’ illustrated children’s book MotoMice, a book that, while created for children, made its point to us as well. That despite our outward differences, we are all one in our essence. Artist and author, Paul Owen Lewis, has lovingly portrayed the motorcycle community through his inventive MotoMice, with vibrant colors and intricate details that any motorcycle enthusiast can appreciate and welcome. We are fairly sure that, no matter what type, style or genre’ bike you ride you will relate and maybe even crack a knowing smile with MotoMice. On one two-page spread we read that… Bikers wear blue. They look like astronauts. Their motorcycles go anywhere. As riders of GSs, V-Stroms and KLRs this was one of the pages that really made us smile. Heck, proud of our side of the motorcycle world. And, this is why we think MotoMice works for both the little ones (that we so need to enter our sport) and big ones that have a strong passion and love for their style of riding. For an adult this is a five-minute read, but with a child on your lap it just might turn into a lifetime of adventure. $16.99 from Beyond words beyondword.com/products/motomice
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Claude’s CreaMery 289 delaware ave, PalMerton Pa 18071 610-826-Cone • www.claudescreamery.com Mon-thur 11:30-8 • fri-sun 11:30-9 Palmerton, PA sits along a route that we often take when traveling south from the Delaware Water Gap. Cherry Valley Road leading to Smith Gap Road then on to the state game lands are most enjoyable. It was on one of our recent jaunts that the hunger pangs hit just as we were passing Claude’s. It happened to be a bonus that, in addition to food of substance, they were a full service ice cream parlor. Oh happy day. Parking can be found on the street or behind in a large parking lot. You enter through the ice cream portion for enticement then can make your way to the seating areas, both inside and out. They have a nice patio with umbrellaed tables. The food du jour here is the hot dog, which you can have almost any way you’d like. Let’s start with a plain old Spillane’s dog on a toasted New England-style roll. As much as I searched, I could not find the origin of a Spillane hot dog, and I’m pretty sure that it has nothing to do with the detective Mickey Spillane, but I could be wrong. If anyone out there can give me an answer, I’ll owe you a dog. Moving along, there are many options and here are a few: Californian with lettuce, tomato, onions, pickles, mayo and American cheese, New Yorker with sauerkraut, NY onions (what makes them different? Again, I don’t know) and brown mustard, or the Coney Island with white onions (instead of NY onions?), Coney Island chili sauce (that’s from NY) and cheddar cheese with mustard. You can opt for a sausage sandwich, either hot or mild with peppers, onions and marinara sauce or some Polish kielbasa. If you are feeling creative, there is a VERY long list of topping, both free and premium at $.50 each, such as jalapenos, chipotle mayo, homemade pickles, mac ‘n cheese and American Easy Cheese (what could THAT be?). You can get a couple of dogs and a fountain drink for about five bucks – now that’s a deal.
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Dogs done, let’s have some dessert. Claude’s proudly serves Hershey’s premium ice cream, of which they have 48 flavors and some daily specials. If you’ve visited shops that carry this brand, you’ll know that it is high quality, delicious and pretty consistent, no matter where you get it. I’ll just highlight some of the flavors that piqued my interest: Deep Dish Apple, Bourbon Brown Butter Truffle, Peanut Butter Pretzel, Sea Salt Caramel Cookies and Cream, Cappuccino Crunch, Vanilla Volcano (with real vanilla beans), Cup-O-Joe and Butter Brittle Crunch. Of particular interest were Teaberry – pretty much a Pennsylvania thing – and Magical Unicorn. First, if you actually find a magical unicorn, why in the world would you grind it down to make ice cream? Second, if you read a description like this, ‘Enchanted purple and white sweet cream ice cream, swirled with sweet and sour cherry and blue raspberry rainbows, bedazzled with starcolored lemon candy flakes’ and aren’t a 5-year-old girl, would you still ordered it? They have soft serve, with Flavor Burst, which has become a popular item, as well as their Crunchi Cream and Claudehoppers – sort of their versions of a DQ Blizzard – soft serve with an assortment of mix-in options. You can get your plain cone, waffle cone, sundae, shakes and floats, as well as Italian ice or gelato. Can’t decide on a flavor? They will offer up a tasting spoon, with a smile, so you will be satisfied that you’ve chosen wisely, grasshopper. If you are travelling the backroads in this area, Claude’s makes for a nice stop for a small bite or just a break for some delicious ice cream. Enjoy and we’ll see you on the ice cream trail!
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FALL FIESTA 2018
MARCh 2019 • BACKROADS
THE ROAD
TO
SCRANTON
it was just after dark when the truck started down the hill that leads into Scranton Pennsylvania. Carrying thirty thousand pounds of bananas…
Harry Chapin
uring last May’s Spring Break Rally we were pummeled with incredible amounts of hard driven rain. it suc…i mean soaked. Getting caught in the rain is always a drag, starting out in a pour, especially when you know it will not get any better, is all that much worse. So, it was with great dismay that we watched hurricane Florence make her way towards the Carolina’s and then stall, causing untold damage to our south and presenting us with the prospect of another rained out rally. Fortunately it did head north and across our region the day before our start, yet somehow we still rode out with dark clouds and a steady and chilling mist shadowing us this morning. Where was the sun we were promised? Well, a wet day on the road is always better than a dry day in the office, right? And, speaking of the office – we were heading to Scranton. Things were made brighter by the huge, delicious breakfast at the Forklift Café with a dozen, or so, friends joining us this Thursday morning. Thank you, LoriAnn and crew, for sending us off fully fed. By late morning a small cadre of riders began the suggested route along the Lackawaxen River towards the ‘Electric City’ of Scranton, Pennsylvania and the huge refurbished rail station with the same name as the river. The route meandered a bit, as we were looking to add miles to pad the ride. Along the way we rode through Promised Land State Park and then past the local sea serpent named Fred before making a stop at the Backroads Café for a quick caffeine break. You might have noticed there was also a sea serpent in the background of an image on page 33 of the September issue – that was Cherrie. So once again Fred and Cherrie make an appearance in Backroads – who would have thunk it?
BACKROADS • MARCh 2019
We have found oddities everywhere you look and right east of the city you will find Archbald State Park. Here the focal point of the park is the glacial pothole. The pothole is a remnant of the Wisconsin Glacial Period and is a seriously big pit. How big? The pothole is 38 feet deep and has an elliptical shape. The diameter of the pothole decreases downward. The largest diameter is 42 feet by 24 feet and at the bottom it is 17 feet by 14 feet. The pothole has a volume of about 18,600 cubic feet, so could hold about 140,000 gallons. It would take 35 fire truck tankers to fill the pothole! Pretty big hole and for a long time a mystery to locals and visitors alike. The first night of the Fall Fiesta was spent at the stunning Lackawanna Station Hotel. Built 110 years ago when trains ruled the land, it still retains all its original clocks, doors, fountains, stairs, ceilings, walls and flavor.
When you say “they don’t make them like that anymore”… Well, this hotel certainly applies. We also got in early enough to stroll around the center of the city. Scranton is one of the most architecturally beautiful towns we’ve visited and certainly one that needs to be explored in more detail. The wonderful combination of old and new mix easily here and the statues and art make the city very special. One particular bust stood out; that of Pulitzer Prize
Page 27 winning playwright, and Scranton native, Jason Miller. Miller was also Father Karras in The Exorcist. After his passing fellow actor and friend Paul Sorvino created the bust and Miller’s ashes were placed inside. The area where you will find it in the city is dedicated to the arts and stood out in a place that already shines. The hotel’s bar and lobby were full this evening and, once again, our friend Glenn Baldwin tickled the 88s to everyone’s delight. Our dinner was made that much more special as our Mom and her friend Maria made the trip over to join us for the night. Great way to start our 20th Annual Fall Fiesta.
THE ROAD
TO
ALTOONA
Although the skies had cleared the night before this Friday found Scranton blanketed by a deep cloud base. It wasn’t raining, but the sun was not breaking through anytime soon. Which worked for us this day, as it was the day before the vernal equinox and old Sol was starting to hang lower in the sky during the early and late parts of the day; at least that is what I told myself. The next day we had a route that involved aliens and UFOs, but on one
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BACKROADS
lawn we found that the little green men had reached out to us. What some folks have in front of their homes! Our route made short work of the Scranton sprawl and in no time our group was motoring over the mountains and out into the Pennsylvania countryside. We were running two versions of the same routes – our rough and smooth GPS rides - one having all the way points and the other with none. We hoped for the best and we have semi-happy expectations we are moving towards GPS Bodhisattva.
We had one big stop for those interested in the odd, unusual and historic motorcycles and memorabilia and that was Bill’s Bike Barn. If you have never been here this is truly a must see. Bill’s has hundreds of thousands of… well, everything. As one rider said it was like a “ giant snapshot” of America in the 20th century. A good deal of Fall Fiesters made the stop and one group was there for two and a half hours; and still felt like they had only scratched the surface. Shira and I had just been, so we scooted off by ourselves and enjoyed the route, which seemed to get better and better with each turn, mountain rise, deep valley, state game land and dark forest.
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Sure, there were closed and non-existent roads; a few miles of gravel and stone; but it was all fun after you finished them. One thing that we found interesting were the names that PA has chosen – some quite literally. ‘Kachinka Road’… I expected a tollbooth. Then there was ‘Stony Ridge’, which was just that - stony. A few miles later – ‘Sheep Hill Road’… that had a hill… full of sheep, of all things. I feared for the next one - ‘Sandy Mountain Road’, which was thankfully freshly paved. Maybe they were going to change the name to pristine Pavement Drive.
BACKROADS • MARCh 2019 Our route took us through the town of Sunbury where we found lunch at the Edison Hotel – named after inventor and thug, Thomas Edison. This building, or what stood here in 1883, was the first to be wired for electricity (Edison’s flimsy DC) and the town is known for this first. I thought it would be fun to open a Tesla dealership across the street. We crossed the Susquehanna at Shamokin Dam, one time the largest Native American village in the region, and then continued the circuitous route south and west towards the city of Altoona. The sun came out right about then and what started out as a cool and dank day became a hot and humid one – the temps that started in the low 60s that morning, hit low 90s by day’s end. Our hotel for the next two nights was the Altoona Grand. Nice enough with plenty of parking and a pool, bar and close by amenities; as there were restaurants, fuel, and all that comes with the ‘Strip Mallification’ of America. But, it would be hard for any hotel to beat the old rail station in Scranton. Yet, the bar seemed crowded and happy that evening, so all was right in our world. Almost on schedule the heat of the afternoon was pushed out by a line of storms that lit up the radar screens with oranges, reds and yellows.
FREE DAY
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The previous night’s storms had wrung out the heat and humidity and, although still cloudy, the day was brisk and had a chill in the air for this final day of summer. We had a number of ride suggestions, some of which were taken and others combined with. By breakfast’s end bikes were rolling out for a day’s adventure along the southern Alleghenies of the Keystone State. Some went in search of President
Page 29 Buchanan’s Birthplace, while others headed to Frank Lloyd Wright’s Falling Water. My friend Craig and I followed along on our own route making stops at the Portage Railway Road and then a bit of Mysterious America as we searched out the tomb of Prince Demetrius Augustine Gallitzin, Russian royalty who had been dubbed the “Apostle to the Alleghenies,” outside of Loretto. Demetrius Gallitzin gave up a life of aristocratic privilege to become a missionary of the American frontier and became, of all things, one of the first paranormal investigators. Mostly forgotten, he’s now under consideration for sainthood and will be featured in an upcoming expose by Seymour O’Life. From there we crisscrossed the PA countryside, eventually ending up in Kecksburg, site of the December 1965 UFO incident that, to this day, is being hushed by the U.S. Government. This is surely a Fox Mulder “I want to believe” place! And, they do have a small (very small) UFO store where, if you like, you can buy a book, a hat and a coffee mug – which I did. I gave the coffee mug to Craig for being nice
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enough to ride with me, almost to Pittsburgh, to see a giant acorn UFO. Others met us there and we spun back to Ligonier – where we made a stop at Joe’s Bar. We had featured this bar years back and, if hunting and stuffed animals bother you, then – well, don’t walk through the door. But, if you want to see something that is way different, then Joe’s collection of wild game from around the world might be of interest. Our one friend Gina was just a tad upset, the others just shocked and surprised all these animals would be found in the back of an ‘old man’s bar’ in a Pennsylvanian town.
MARCh 2019 • BACKROADS
Lunch was had at the town’s square and many headed to the Flight 93 Memorial and others back towards Altoona and the Horseshoe Curve. Shira led a ride to the Penn State Creamery. Of course, anyone joining her was warned that gravel was inevitable, and she didn’t disappoint. Somewhere along the bumpy portions something snapped on her top case mount and when they arrived at the Creamery parking lot, she found that the weight suggestion for the load was put there for a reason. Luckily Ken Hilley was along for the ride and he handily put what resources they had to use for a
BACKROADS • MARCh 2019 temporary attachment. The ice cream was made all that much better after some manual labor. It was Shira’s plan to make a stop at Kissell Motorsports, a dealership that had recently started carrying the magazine. It was not on her plan to have them try and re-attach the mounting bracket so the top case would stay put. What was supposed to be a quick stop turned into an hour’s ordeal at the end of their day, with Meagan doing yeoman’s work but without success. What they say is true – if you can’t fix it, just duct it. Shira gingerly rode back to the hotel, redistributed her lode and bolstered the zip ties and duct tape for the ride home. Otherwise, it must have been a good day all around as riders all seemed to be running late but returning happy with a few hundred miles under their belts. That night some cabbed into town for a nice meal (some lucky folks got a ride over in a smokin’ BMW convertible – Thanks Glenn!) and later we filled the bar for the rest of the evening. At 9:54 pm the summer officially ended and autumn began. The next morning we’d head back north and east.
THE ROAD
TO
JIM THORPE
Many folks had to, or decided to, head home for work or responsibilities this Sunday, so our crowd diminished a bit, still we had a good amount of troops heading north and east to Jim Thorpe for the last overnight. We called this tour The Endless Mountains – and so far we thought we provided just that, but this day’s ride added in a bit more flair. Okay, perhaps it was not flair for some – but it was different and a little arduous. Between the harvesting along the farms in the valleys, coating the road for miles with mud and ‘caca de la vaca,’ and one mountain that we crossed over along a loosely graveled road through the mist, the ride became more and more adventurous. Although some were put off by the task, others embraced the challenge. I am fairly sure that most did not know that, just to our south, the region was getting deluged with heavy rains. We were fortunate. Still, there were the ever-present routing issues and the habit of Pennsylvania to name roads literally – like ‘Road Ends Road’ – that did just that. There were a couple of roads closed or turning out to be private, but eventually all figured their Plan B out and by the time we rode into Jim Thorpe all was in the past, or more likely, not brought to our direct attention. Our hope with offering GPS Routes is that they make the ride more enjoyable and easier than constantly scanning through paper routes, which can be a dangerous issue by itself and when they work great it’s – well, great. But, there is ALWAYS going to be an issue every now and again and when something does not look kosher, up to snuff or you find yourself on a road that has your ‘Spidey-Sense’ tingling, then use your noodle.
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MARCh 2019 • BACKROADS The Wizard gave us all brains and, on occasion, you need to put it into gear. It is okay to back the GPS screen out and find another, happier way for you to get where we need to go, okay? We never intend to put our riders on anything but fun pavement. But, seeking out the interesting backroads and avoiding the divided highways, strip malls, and ho-hum cookie cutter BS that much of the United States is becoming requires some effort on our part and yours. Jim Thorpe was a very happening place – even on a Sunday night - and it worked out terrifically well for those who came to this old PA burg named after a Native American athlete who never stepped foot into the town till they moved his grave here.
THE ROAD BACK HOME
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We had riders from Canada, Maryland and Florida as well as many from the northeast. We appreciate that you all have a choice of magazines to fly with and you have chosen to fly with Backroads Magazine. With our 2018 and 20th Anniversary Rallies done for the year, it was time to start planning our Spring Break and Fall Fiesta 2019. Spring will be Lions and Coasters and Amish – Oh My! with the states of New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Maryland and West Virginia coming into play. We promise great hotels, great food, great roads (yes, there will probably be gravel - or not) and, most importantly, great people – as it is all of you who make these rallies what they have become – a big part of our riding season. Both Shira and I wish to thank you again! Fall will bring us south again to the great state of Virginia for four nights and on to Pennsylvania for those who choose to spend an extra night on the road. If you can spare an extra few days before the Fall Fiesta and would like to improve your riding skills, we’ll be heading back to Virginia International Raceway to spend a couple of days with Reg Pridmore and CLASS. Just think how much better your riding will be during the Rally if you decide to join us. Details for the Fall Fiesta can be found on our rally webpage: backroadsusa.com/rally.html or in this issue on Page 11.
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BACKROADS • MARCh 2019
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MARCh 2019 • BACKROADS
Waterproofing Your Riding Boots Avoiding the Soak We all have had this feeling. It starts with a chilling tingle around the toes, then the growing certainty that your boots – sworn they were waterproof when you bought them - have let you down and the first drips and channeling of water or rain are making their way around your now popsicle toes. Nothing can stop water. Eventually it will make its way through anything… if not physically, then in that dank, cold and dreaded feeling that your feet are no longer ‘dry’ and worse, they are cold too. Uggg! Gore-Tex and other such materials do a superb job, and sometimes they are not the culprit here, but rather the boots themselves – the leather and materials they are made of - that get permeated and soaked. Once water begins to steep in it can quickly escalate. So the idea is to keep the water out and the answer is easy, quick and has always been here. You just have to do it right. We talked about leather cleaning and maintenance a few months back – but this month is specifically about your boots and one way to help keep them, if not water-tight, then water-resistant. We’ll bring three different leather treatments… Skidmore’s Waterproofing, Sno-Seal and Outback Leather Seal – all available at shoemakers (if you have one, be grateful) or from the Internet for under twenty bucks a can. All three have one main component – bee’s wax. Bee’s wax works as a
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natural barrier to moisture and is a great conditioner for your boots as well. But, it is the application where it really matters. Our friend here is heat. You need to get the boots up in temperature. Some say to put them into an oven for a few minutes, but I always picture a sudden phone call, making lunch or some other distraction and then - smoke, fire, firemen, insurance claims…etc. Better to do it our way with a heat gun or hair dryer. step 1 – Clean the boots well! step 2 – If you have a pure leather treatment (Skidmore’s Leather Cream is excellent) then give it an application – it never hurts to do this first. step 3 – Lightly heat the boots with the heat gun or dryer at the LOW setting. Your object here is to gently warm the leather – not cook it. Just get it warmer than the room or garage is. step 4 – Liberally apply bee’s wax treatment du jour – paying special attention to the seams, stitching and overlaps along the boot. step 5 – Take the heat gun to it and you will immediately see the waterproofing compound liquefy and run along the seams and into the leather. Give it a good rub with a clean rag, working the wax into the seams and stitching and all around. Repeat if you like and you are good to go!
BACKROADS • MARCh 2019
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Visible during the day and at night be seen! IXS RAIN JACKET & PANTS SILVER REFLEX-ST
Anyone who prefers a one-piece rain overall instead of the two-piece jacket & trouser set, can also switch to the Rain Suit Orca Reflex from iXS (X79816), made of the same reflective material. The jacket & trousers are available in sizes M - 3XL, the one-piece overall is even available from XS - 5XL. Find Rain Jacket ($80) & Pants ($75) Silver Reflex-ST at your local dealer or more information at moto.ixs.com/en/shop/rain-jacket-silver-reflex-st.
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High-quality rain clothing is a matter of trust. It protects against the wet and the cooling associated with the latter. Good visibility also has an additional important protective function. The Rain Jacket & Pants Silver Reflex-ST from iXS use an innovative, large area of reflective material. In the daylight the suit appears as an aesthetic dark grey, but the material reflects a light silver in the dark from headlights. The fluorescent yellow pieces supplement visibility during the day. In order to guarantee the core function, namely protection against the rain, the jacket is fitted with a labyrinth fastener at the front. In addition, all the seams are welded to be watertight. A special sleeve lining is incorporated for easy handling. It makes it easy to put the jacket on or take it off if there is a change in the weather. The leg closure with Velcro also has the same purpose. The best possible comfort is also important to iXS regarding rain clothing. Individually adjustable upper arms and sleeve closures together with a pull-cord around the waist help it to fit without fluttering. A sophisticated extra feature is the rain hood stored in the collar with an integrated storm peak made of Lycra. It can be worn under the helmet and allows the water to flow away on the outside by the collar. Two external pockets make it very practical. An anti-slip trim on the seat gives a good hold on the motorbike. The bag for the jacket and trousers is also practical and provides space-saving storage.
March 2019 Pages_2011 Page Layout-New 2/11/19 3:37 PM Page 36
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MARCH 2019 • BACKROADS
words and images: Dan Bisbee To some people, cemeteries are places of sadness; places where people bury their dead. To me they are sacred places where people honor the deceased. Some gravestones express profound grief. Many are erected to honor a life. Still others celebrate a life cut short. I found one of each during a motorcycle ride through Vermont. Riding through Cuttingsville, Vermont on Route 103 it’s hard to miss the Bowman Mausoleum. It stands majestically on the side of the road and I did a double take as I passed. A man stood just outside the gate, mournfully looking in. This wasn’t a living man but an incredibly detailed life-sized granite carving. His name was John Bowman and he has been standing there for over
a century. Born in 1816, John Bowman operated a tannery and was a purveyor of leather goods. In 1849 he married Jennie Gates and in 1854, she gave birth to a baby girl whom they named Addie. Sadly, the child passed away within 4 months. In 1856 a second daughter, Tess was born. The Bowman family prospered during the Civil War when John Bowman sold leather goods to the Union Army.
Sadly, in 1879, when she was just 22, Tess passed away. Her mother died less than a year later. John Bowman was heartbroken. He funneled his sorrow and considerable wealth into building a mausoleum for his deceased family. 125 stone cutters and masons spent over a year building the monument and, in 1881, the remains of the infant, Tess and Jennie were interred in the mausoleum he christened Laurel Glen.
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BACKROADS • MARCh 2019 Soon after the mausoleum was completed, John built a summer house across the street and named it Laurel Hall. He lived out his days there, directly across the street from his deceased family. During that time, he had a statue of himself carved and placed looking into the mausoleum. He passed away in 1891 but still he stands sadly looking into the tomb clutching a top hat to his chest while holding a wreath and a key. The mausoleum stands close to the road and John is forever at the gate grieving for his loved ones. Laurel Hall is still there too, across the street. They say that the ghost of John Bowman wanders the hallways and on certain nights you can hear him crying at the gate.
From Cuttingsville, I rode through Rutland and north through the Champlain Valley to Middlebury. There the West cemetery lies, nearly surrounded by Middlebury College. It’s a fairly typical New England burying ground with one notable exception. There is tombstone inscribed: Ashes of Amum-her-Khepesh-ef Aged two years Son of Sen Woset 3rd King of egypt and his wife hathor-hotpe 1881 BC. Why are the ashes of the son of an Egyptian King buried here? You can thank Henry Sheldon, George Mead and an unscrupulous dealer in stolen Egyptian antiquities.
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3rd King Sen Woset, (aka Senusret III) ruled Egypt from 1878 to 1839 BC. His son, born prior to his assent to the throne, died as an infant and was mummified in the custom of the day. Senuset III was a well-regarded king and, upon his death, he was buried in his own pyramid along with his family. In the 19th century, treasure hunters looted the pyramid. It is believed that the mummified remains of his son were among the pillaged treasure. Henry Sheldon of Middlebury, Vermont was a collector in the late 1800s. His collection eventually turned into the Sheldon Museum. As part of his collection, he purchased a mummy, sight unseen, from a shady dealer in Egyptian artifacts. He was hoping to display the mummy of the Egyptian prince for the people of Vermont. However, when the mummy arrived, Henry was so disappointed with its condition that he put it in storage instead of displaying it. Henry passed away in 1907 and his museum was shuttered. In the 1930s, the museum was reopened and curator George Mead discovered the rather sad looking remains. With Middlebury being a college town, he though burying a mummy would be asking for trouble so he had the remains cremated and buried in his family plot. Above the inscription, there are three symbols carved. The center is a Christian cross, flanked by the Egyptian symbols “ankh” and “ba”, honoring life and spirit. When I visited, I asked a passerby if he knew where the mummy was buried but he just looked at me and hurried away. I did locate the stone. It blends in with the surrounding ones and is a bit difficult to locate. It’s on the left side of the cemetery about half way back. Look for one with a flat top. Back on the bike I headed over Route 17 across the Appalachian Gap. The App Gap is one of the best motorcycle roads around here and it did not disappoint as I wound up one side and twisted down the other. Fifty miles and an ice cream cone later, I made my final stop of the day at the Green Mount cemetery in Montpelier. There are many beautifully carved stones here but I’ve come specifically to see Little Margaret.
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MARCh 2019 • BACKROADS
Rip & Ride • REMEMBERED IN STONE 150 miles one way • Download: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/v0foln
Little Margaret Pitkin was born in 1892 and, as a young child, was beloved by everyone who met her. Sadly, she passed away from Spinal Meningitis at 7 years old. Her parents commissioned a local stone cutter to craft a memorial stone for her. They provided photographs to the stone cutter and instructed him to make an exact replica of her. The resulting gravestone is stunning in its detail. A life-sized version of Little Margaret stands leaning on a fence. Lilies grow up the fence and Margaret seems to have a twinkle in her eye. The story goes that her parents were unhappy with the monument and refused to pay. The reason? A single button was missing from one of Margaret’s boots. The stone cutter showed them the photo and, sure enough, there was a button missing in the picture. The parents paid up. Over 100 years later, people still come to see Little Margaret as she stands, leaning on the fence, welcoming everyone. Visitors place coins on her stone in hopes of good luck. Before leaving, I added my own coin. Riding home I contemplated the three gravestones. The unbearable grief felt by George Bowman after losing his family is captured perfectly in the sculpture. He died in 1891 but people don’t remember that he was a successful businessman, they know only his grief. The remains of Amum-Her-Khepesh-Ef should be entombed in a pyramid in Egypt. Instead, his ashes lie in a small cemetery in Vermont, known not as ancient Egyptian royalty but as a
START: ROUTE 100, WEST DOVER, VT GRAY GHOST OR KITZHOFF INN ROUTE 100 NORTH ROUTE 155 WEST ROUTE 103 WEST BOWMAN MAUSOLEUM IS ON THE RIGHT ROUTE 103 WEST ROUTE 7 NORTH ROUTE 4 WEST ROUTE 30 NORTH MIDDLEBURY CEMETERY IS ON THE LEFT THE MUMMY IS ABOUT HALF WAY BACK ON LEFT SIDE ROUTE 30 NORTH ROUTE 7 NORTH ROUTE 17 EAST ROUTE 100 NORTH ROUTE 100B NORTH ROUTE 2 EAST GREEN MOUNT CEMETERY IS ON THE LEFT LITTLE MARGARET IS WAY UP IN THE BACK RIGHT CORNER NEXT TO THE WOODS roadside oddity. It’s better than being kept on a shelf in a closet I suppose. Little Margaret though, she seems happy to see everyone. She will forever lean on that fence looking out over the Green Mountains with a hopeful smile on her face. She’s the one I want to remember.
Touring North Central Virginia? Then ride on over to the NEW Comfort Inn & Suites in Orange
The newest motorcycle-friendly hotel closest to Skyline Drive… just 30 miles away!
15% Discount to all Motorcyclists
Moto-Inn Approved Tell ‘em Backroads sent you!
Motorcyclist Owned & Operated Large indoor heated pool and spa • Free deluxe hot breakfast buffet Microwaves + fridges in every room • Large rooms + suites available
Comfort Inn & Suites 334 Caroline St (James Madison Hwy), Orange, VA 22960 540-672-3121 • www.comfortinn.com/hotel-orange-virginia-VA657
The Boat House Restaurant Perfect in Any Season Brunch, Lunch or Dinner on Swartswood Lake
Excellent Ride Destination
Tues-Sun 11A-9P Brunch 10A-2P Closed Monday Call for Seasonal Hours
1040 Cty Rd 521 • Swartswood NJ 973-300-0016
BACKROADS • MARCH 2019
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Rip & Ride® • CANDY’S COUNTRY CAFÉ 2423 RTE. 57, STEWARTSVILLE, NJ 08886 • 908-213-1889
DOWNLOAD: www.sendspace.com/filegroup/LLGnBpsOfioKilaa2lzO9A START: HIGH POINT MONUMENT WHAT A VIEW! RIGHT AT ROUTE 23 NORTH FIRST LEFT AT SAWMILL RD (IN THE PARK, SMALL ROAD) LEFT AT CR 650 DECKERTOWN RD RIGHT AT CR 519 SOUTH RIGHT AT UPPER NORTH SHORE/ MATTISON SCHOOL RD. RIGHT AT US 206 NORTH LEFT AT STRUBLE RD TILLMANS’ RAVINE WORTH THE WALK!
WATERFALL DETOUR LEFT AT MOUNTAIN RD (CEMETERY) GRAVEL TO BUTTERMILK FALLS LEFT AT WALPACK ROAD NPS 615 LEFT AT MILLBROOK RD LEFT AT OLD MINE RD HARD RIGHT AT BIRCH RIDGE RD
RIGHT AT MILLBROOK RD RIGHT AT CR 521 SOUTH STRAIGHT AT MAIN ST. STILLWATER BEAR RIGHT UP CEDAR RIDGE/ DIXON RD SNOWMOBILE MUSEUM ON LEFT RIGHT AT FREDON MARKSBORO RD INTO LINCOLN LAUREL RD RIGHT AT ROUTE 94 SOUTH BEAR LEFT AT SILVER LAKE ROAD LEFT AT CR 521 SOUTH STRAIGHT AT CR 519 SOUTH LEFT AT FIDDLER’S ELBOW (JUST PAST RED WOLFE INN ANOTHER STELLAR EATERY!) STRAIGHT AT HARMONY BRASS CASTLE RD RIGHT AT MONTANA RD LEFT AT US 57 CANDY’S DOWN ROAD ON THE RIGHT
We all find time to do what we really want to do. ~ William Feather
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MARCh 2019 • BACKROADS
UP C OM I N G E VE NT S CAL END AR MARCH 2019 1-2 • 9th Modern Classics. Friday Kickstart Party 7-10pm with hors d’oeuvres, refreshments, music and more. tickets $15 (includes Friday and Saturday) to first 250 guests. enjoy music while browsing the 100 classic motorcycles. Saturday Modern Classics 9am-5pm $10 at door. 567 Route 100n, Boyertown, PA • www.martinmoto.com 8-17 • 78th Daytona Bike Week • www.officialbikeweek.com
APRIL 2019 25-28 • horizons Unlimited travellers Meeting, Appomattox, VA. informative technical workshops on everything from tires to GPS to border crossings. inspirational, amazing and often hilarious tales from the road, exhibitors and time for discussions with other travellers. Camping on-site. info/registration: www.horizonsunlimited.com/virginia
MAY 2019 16-19 • COG northeast Spring Fling Rally, Matamoras, PA • https://goo.gl/ZBi8en 17-19 • Dover Moto Riding for a Cure. Charity event to raise funds towards Breast and Ovarian cancer research based in West Dover, Vermont. Proud supporters of the annual Mother’s for Daughter’s Charity Ride. Weekend of stunning Vermont rides, great food, and good music • Full details www.dovermoto.com
What’s Happening 8-16 • 96th Anniversary Laconia Motorcycle Week, Weirs Beach, nh. www.laconiamotorcycleweek.com 17 • Ride to Work Day • www.ridetowork.org 20-23 • johnstown PA thunder in the Valley Motorcycle Rally. All Bikes Welcome. www.visitjohnstownpa.com/thunder-valley
JULY 2019 13-14 • 43rd Annual Ramapo 500. 2 days (250 miles each day) incl. Sat. dinner, Sun. breakfast, camping, awards and prizes • Full details www.ramapomc.org 22-26 • COG Keystone national Rally, Williamsport, PA • cogmc.com/national 26-28 • Kissell Motorsports Soggy Bottom MotoFest Adventure and Dual Sport Rally. Port Matilda, PA. Registration fee incl. 5 catered meals, 4 rides with GPS routes, live music, beer and 2019 t-shirt. Attendees can expect 350 miles of mostly unpaved roads with spectacular views and optional hero sections. Lodging must be booked separately. info: www.eventbrite.com/soggy-bottom-motofest-2019-tickets
AUGUST 2019 7-12 • DiRty for GOOD Women’s Dual Sport Rider/training Camp, Rocky Gap SP, Flintstone, MD • full details: womensmotorcyclistfoundation.org/events
17-19 • Morton’s BMW Spring Fling Rally, natural Bridge, VA. Full weekend of great riding, good food and terrific company. Rally fee includes vendors, door prizes, route sheets, scavenger hunt poker run, Fri. night Brats + Brew, Sat. catered buffet dinner and guest presentation. Full info and registration: www.mortonsbmw.com
15-18 • touratech DirtDaze Rally, Suicide Six, Pomfret, Vt. this will be THE ADV rally of the east Coast. Watch for details on their website: www.DirtDazeRally.com
18-19 • 6th Annual new Sweden 450 - 2-day and 450 miles of great backroads. Sign in: 8:30-10am • Cycle-Gear 2070 Rt. 70 (east) Cherry hill, nj 08003; endsite: Pj Whelihans 1854, Rt. 70 (east) Cherry hill, nj 08034. Pre-register $55; Day of event $65 (Credit cards accepted). incl. doughnuts and coffee at registration, free camping, Sat. night dinner, prizes, 50/50, Sun. morning breakfast, finisher’s patch and route sheets, incl. gas/eating spots. GPS uploads available • http://450.nsbmwr.com
9-12 • Rolling thru America Virginia. Limited to 100 guests • 518-798-7888 • Sign up at www.rollingthruamerica.com
16-20 • Backroads Spring Break. Lions and Coasters and Amish - OH MY! First night in State College PA, two in Mchenry, MD where we’ll have a group dinner on Sat. May 18. YOU MUST RSVP BEFORE MAY 1 TO BE INCLUDED (See below). Our final night will be in Bird-in-hand, PA. Full details: www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html
JUNE 2019 3-8 • Americade, Lake George, ny. Largest motorcycle touring rally • www.americade.com • 518-798-7888
SEPTEMBER 2019 25-28 • Rolling thru America Maine. Limited to 100 guests • 518-798-7888 • Sign up at www.rollingthruamerica.com 16-17 • CLASS at VIR, Alton, VA. join the crew from Backroads BeFORe the Fall Fiesta and make your riding thAt much better. ViR is just a couple hundred miles south of Orange and we’ll have a great ride to meet the rest of the folks on Wed. 9/18. For more details and to register, visit www.CLASSRIDES.com or call 805-933-9936. you must also book your lodging at ViR: 434-822-7700 ext. 101 18-23 • Backroads Fall Fiesta. here are the details: Wed. Sept. 18 Comfort inn, Orange, VA • thur-Fri. Sept. 19-20 Bolling Wilson hotel, Wytheville, VA • Sat., Sept. 21 Best Western, Waynesboro, VA • Sun. Sept. 22 Fulton Steam Boat inn, Ronks (Lancaster) PA. Make sure you BOOK eARLy as some hotels are VeRy LiMiteD. Full details can be found on Page 11, our Rally website: backroadsusa.com/rallies.html or our Facebook page: www.facebook.com/events/474410303089926/