March 2023

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

Publishers Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors Mark Byers, Pamela Collins, Mike Stackhouse, Dr. Seymour O’Life

Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822

phone 973.948.4176

fax 973.948.0823

email editor@backroadsusa.com

online www.backroadsusa.com

Advertising973-948-4176

Follow Us Backroads-Motorcycle-Touring-Magazine

Tweet Us@BackroadsGal

See Usbackroadsmagazine

BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2023. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without speci c written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed suf cient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip &Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN

THE MUSIC MAN

We were deep in the mountains of West Virginia on a Backroads Spring Break rally and a good friend, Jose’, had run out of petrol on the road up Cheat Mountain, just west of Cass.

This was the spring of the ‘fake gas crisis’ and I had added two RotopaX onto my GS, which were empty at this point. Our group would be heading west then north, eventually into Pennsylvania, and an overnight at Historic Summit Inn.

We checked on Jose and I told him I’d be back in 20 minutes, as I had to head over and then back on the windy Route 66 past Snowshoe.

I told Shira and our gaggle of riders to continue and I’d see them later, as there was no reason to have a dozen riders for the job of one.

All was sorted and Jose had gotten lled and topped off at the fuel station where 66 ran into Route 219. I told Jose and companion/best buddy Tony to keep going and I settled in for my own fuel – uids in and out – a large double espresso coffee and sugary fruit pie.

With no rush, I settled in at a picnic table and enjoyed a half hour or so in solitude. A nice thing to do now and again.

When I was saddling up I realized that in all the years I have been riding in the Mountain State, I’d never ridden alone. I had always been with Shira or a group of Backroaders. This alone thing appealed to me and I thought… How nice – an easy leisurely ride for the rest of the afternoon. No rush. No, bother.

Then “IT” came on – IT being 14 power chords off of George Kooy-

mans’ Les Paul – the opening to Radar Love. Oh, oh.

I recently watched a TedX talk given by Donna Stoering, a superb pianist and a deep believer that music can and will affect us as human beings – in the way we think, the way we feel, and the way we act. Her Ted Talk was most excellent, and she simply con rmed something I’d thought about for my entire life.

Stoering brought forth how some music can cause stress, anger, and, sadly, violence – while other pieces can do the opposite – one study she shared showed that listening to German composer Felix Mendelssohn’s Song Without Words actually lowered blood pressure.

But what about those musical compositions and songs that bring that combination of happiness, a strong focus, perhaps a squirt of adrenaline, and a strong and steady right wrist? I think, on this particular day, the Dutch band Golden Earring did just that. What had started as a pleasant and easy ride north got etch-a-sketched into something far more sporting.

At this point, Shira and company were about an hour ahead of me. Hours later, and with the knowledge I had likely broken numerous traf c ordinances, in multiple counties, I pulled into The Summit’s parking lot just minutes behind my redhead.

Music changed the day… and for all the good reasons.

I nd this happens often. Some of us are far more aware of this than others. My friend Charlie Green has the words ‘Abaddon’s Bolero’ nicely scripted on the tail bag of his K1600GTL. There are two reasons, I think, for this. One is Charlie was a good friend and technician for Emerson, Lake & Palmer for many years, and the second is that their masterpiece Abaddon’s Bolero works perfectly for Charlie’s riding style – as he admittedly starts every ride in a slow, but forceful way and gradually, as the day rolls on, so does he – nishing the ride with a well-deserved ourish. Throttle-wise that is. There is more than a nod to Ravel’s Bolero with ELP’s version as Boléro is a one-movement orchestral work known for beginning softly and ending, according to the composer’s instructions, as loudly as possible.

It ‘sounds’ like a great day in the saddle… ,

TAKING STOCK

Each year, Brian and I do our best to attend some sort of riding class. For the past very many years, it has been a ride to the southern tip of Virginia to attend Reg Pridmore’s CLASS at Virginia International Raceway. In the beginning we did just the one day but learned that doubling down was the best way to get the most of what Reg and crew had to offer.

While Reg is still offering his ne tutelage, it is in limited quantity and only in California. Sure, we can take a ight and continue our learning experience, but the point - in my mind at least - is to do these on your own personal ride, to get comfortable in your own skin, as it were.

Thus, the search was on to replace our learning with another riding experience. After our trip to Ecuador last March, there was talk amongst the group about taking an off-road training class somewhere. Truth be told, I have developed a MAJOR yip when faced with anything less than pavement in front of my wheels. While I never profess to being adept at riding any sort of dirt, I have had plenty of experience in many different situations - many of my own doing and routing.

Years ago, and I guess the adage ‘ignorance is bliss’ applies, I was quite able to continue on when the signs read ‘road ends.’

I strongly remember our rst trip to South Africa, riding a BMW R1100, and not having much experience at all off-road. The words of Don McDaniels, who we met on this trip and has become a good friend, resonate in my ears to this day - ‘Get on the pegs, keep your eyes up and throttle on.’ There were plenty of situation where I should have been a bit tentative - the pass in Italy when they were working on the road in front of us or making our way to Lake Como through a snow stormbut for whatever reason, I was pretty calm and just carried on.

Perhaps age has something to do with it. Whatever it is, it is something that I need to conquer. To be fearful of heading into an unpaved lot of an overlook and missing out on a magni cent view, to not be able to head down that country road to the most fantastic restaurant in the area, or simply make that u-turn to avoid a beautiful mountain pass is unreasonable and irrational.

I KNOW how to ride. Flying down a piece of twisty tarmac, leaning into the curves brings the biggest smile to my face. I want to be able to have that same smile when traversing a country path. So, in April, I will be attending DC Dirt Camp in Virginia (www.dcdirtcamp.com) with a few other Backroads folk. We are taking the Clutch Capable One-Day class. I am going at this as if I have never ridden off-road and will try to erase any bad habits and/or stupid yips that have taken space in my brain.

Comparably, I just started taking piano lessons. I kinda know how to read music and have a basic knowledge of the piano. I told my teacher, Mary, to treat me like the 7 year-olds in the class. I started with the very basics and, after 3 lessons I am almost pro cient at Oh Susanna. I will tell the instructors at Dirt Camp the same thing and hope to make similar progress.

While I truly have no desire to ride the Dalton Highway or all the BDR routes (I’m pretty sure that many of the Backroads routes we’ve done over the years were incorporated into these), I do want to not be a burden on those riding with me because of my struggles. I know that the basic lessons I’ll learn on this course will help me be a better rider overall. And I will build on these lessons, just as I am building on my piano lessons, and while I’ll never play in Carnegie Hall, I just might head out on another tour where off-road riding plays a big role and have the time of my life. We have a chalkboard at the entrance to our home. Every year I try to put some motivational drawing on it. 2020’s was less than prophetic - ‘Let’s see where this year takes us’ but this year’s is how I plan to live. Here’s to a ferocious 2023 - see ya on the road, or off. ,

WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL

ON THE MARK MARK BYERS

LASTOFTHE MOHICANS

Dangerous Dan and I met two guys at a shop in Culpeper, VA to swap a bike DD had for a couple of theirs. One of them was also picking up a ‘73 Yamaha LT-3 100cc single on which the shop had done some work. There’s a lot to unpack, but the most important - and recently most alien - concept is that there is a shop that will still work on a ‘73 Yamaha. Most shops today will not go near a bike more than seven to ten years old. Two BMW shops near me will, but only if the bike wears a roundel. As many times as I’ve been through Culpeper, I never knew there was a moto shop there. When we pulled up, I knew it was a promising nd because, instead of a marquee full of factory names, the sign outside the smallish building simply said “Cycle Center.” It was a cold, windy January day, but we got a warm welcome from Tom behind the counter and a quick look around told me and DD that we were in a very special place. Just inside the door was a cafe’d Honda 750 with a custom seat sporting an embroidered rising-sun logo. Over by the parts counter were two really nice Honda CT-70’s, clearly not for sale given the protective screen of boxes around them. There were a couple Honda threewheelers with their characteristic balloon tires, a model so reviled by the Consumer Product Safety Commission that they attempted to have every example cut to pieces. Fortunately, they missed a few. There were a number of other machines standing around the room, but DD’s eye was instantly drawn to a fully-restored Hodaka Super

Rat. If you have ever seen a movie where the hero is lovestruck at rst sight, that would capture Dan when he saw the Hodaka. Oh sure, we wandered around the whole place and looked at all the cool, older bikes awaiting service, but DD was still hearing the siren song of that Hodaka (and it hadn’t even been started).

I bought an ATV winch part just to buy something (and because I needed one), while DD engaged Charlie, the shop owner, in light conversation, tiptoeing up to an offer on the Hodaka. I have watched this dance many times and when you have a true cognoscenti courting a man with a beloved restoration project over a possible sale, it is a delicate waltz. The buyer’s bona des must be established as a true believer and a “keeper” rather than a “ ipper” before any man worth his salt will consider selling something into which he has put so much of himself. Mrs. Charlie made favorable noises about a sale, which is always a good sign.

Our friends arrived, giving the deal conversation time to marinate while we made the bike exchange, assisted by the ramp the shop gladly supplied. There was a little time in the back room, ogling the purple Yamaha as Charlie did a couple nishing touches on it before ring it up. The little Yamaha was put on their truck and we warmed ourselves as we got a lead on a good diner.

Finally, Charlie must have been satis ed that DD was worthy, because a handshake sealed a deal that would be fully consummated in the coming weeks. I saw a smile creep over Mrs. Charlie’s face, knowing that the inventory was generating funds rather than consuming them, something important when you’ve been operating a shop for 46 years with a husband who is a collector of vintage machines. She alluded to a building containing more than the shop could possibly hold.

Continued on Next Page

Steve McQueen lives on as a legend and icon — his unmistakable sense of style is still the standard of cool. He continues to capture the imagination of motorcycle and automotive enthusiasts alike. McQueen was passionate about riding motorcycles — so much that once he reached international stardom, some studios made McQueen swear off motorcycle racing altogether. While racing wasn’t in the cards, McQueen still loved riding with friends on the trails around California. It led to his headlining role in the cult classic documentary, On Any Sunday. The lm helped boost the popularity of motorcycling and still to this day is a must-watch for any motorcycle enthusiast.

This Spring Bell will release a Custom 500 Six Day McQueen helmet in partnership with the Steve McQueen Estate. This is an of cially-licensed replica of the helmet McQueen wore during the 1964 International Six Days Trial — a six-day enduro event where the best riders in the world were invited to represent their countries in the competition. McQueen was selected to represent the U.S. along with a group of other American riders, including McQueen’s close friend and desert racing legend Bud Ekins, as the rst Americans to participate in the competition. The number 278 Triumph TR6SC, a Barbour waxed-canvas jacket, and McQueen’s Bell helmet have become synonymous with his role in the race and can be seen in hundreds of now famous photos. It’s a style and look that is still emulated more than sixty years later.

Bell will offer this Steve McQueen replica Custom 500 in a beautiful blue and white paint scheme, with subtle red accents just like the helmet McQueen wore during the competition. “Steve” is written in a playful font on the back of the helmet adding a unique touch along with a period-correct 510 visor. The helmet will also come with a special 278 decal featuring Steve McQueen’s name and the 1964 ISDT details, showcasing its authenticity and signi cance. A special keychain featuring McQueen’s name will also come with the helmet, which will be shipped in a beautiful black leather helmet bag. The Custom 500 itself is an icon – paying respects to the original Bell TX open face helmet, which revolutionized auto and motorcycle racing and paved the way for future innovations in head protection such as the Moto-3. Available online and at Bell authorized retailers in sizes XS through XXL, the Custom 500 Six Day McQueen will retail starting at $209.95. Along with the helmet, a limited run of apparel featuring imagery of McQueen will be available for short time. To learn more visit BellHelmets.com ,

ON THE MARK

Continued from Previous Page

The next time we saw Charlie was at the swap meet in York, walking about with a sign around his neck listing Yamaha RD-350 parts he needed. We complimented him on the neatness of the sign and he replied with a grin, “My wife made it for me.” That woman is de nitely a keeper! Sadly, the word “retirement” crept into the conversations a few times and

I suppose after nearly a half century in the motorcycle business, that’s a well-deserved word to throw around. The sad part is that after Charlie and the missus close their doors, another old-fashioned bike repair shop will have gone by the wayside and become another empty building to be razed to make room for a Dollar General. Until then, stop by the Cycle Center in Culpeper, the last of the Mohicans. ,

BELL HELMETS CUSTOM 500 STEVE MCQUEEN • King of Cool!

FUZZY MPG MATH

Way back when, I penned this piece to add some humor to, if I recall correctly, the gas spike during W. Bush’s administration. It was a little tongue-in-cheek humor to take the load off what, at the time, seemed to be crazy gas prices. (If only we knew…) I gured it was time to dust it off, rewrite parts of it and hopefully gives folks a little chuckle while things are so unprecedented. I hope you enjoy.

So, you’re trying to convince your spouse you need to save gas and buy a motorcycle, are you? Well, here’s a little fuzzy math to help you make your decision. I have always encouraged folks to ride bikes but also warned them that if they were getting into it for monetary reasons, they might be disappointed. Even if you gure the buy-in, with a motorcycle, helmet, and gear (you WILL wear gear and a helmet, right?) shouldn’t be included in the gures you may still be surprised at how things unfurl. It would be grim and probably not worth the writing of this had gas prices not be on a steady (if not rocket like) climb. So, here goes.

Let’s start easy. Say you ride/drive 30 miles to work one way. That equals 60 miles a day or 300 a week. If you drive an average car, which these days equate to an SUV, I’m guessing 25mpg is about all you’re good for. If gas is $4.50 a gallon (which by now is probably low…) you spend $54.00 a week for the 12 gallons of lique ed Dinos you used. Now, on the other hand, Joe Average on his run of the mill motorcycle travels the same route to the same job and knocks down 50mpg. The six gallons that he pumps into the tank costs him $27 for the week. You’re smiling, aren’t you? Looks good from here, right?

Well, unless you live somewhere other than New England, you can’t ride yearround. So, let’s say you start the last week of May and ride to the last week in September. (Doable right?) That works out to be 18 weeks.

$42 (the vehicle) multiplied by 18 weeks is (count the toes and ngers) $972.00. Joe motorcycle? $486.00. So, over the 18 weeks our two-wheeled friend is ahead $486.00. Not what you were thinking right?

OK, you’re grumbling that the ol’ 4X4 drinks more than that. Fine, I’ll buy that one. Let’s say you drink fuel at 18 mpg. (Fair for what some folks call normal transportation) Let’s also say you ride something like a dual sport motorcycle and it knocks down 60 mpg. Your weekly commute uses 16.6 gallons and 5 gallons respectively. Pull off the socks and add things up again. (Hmm… the oor is cold) 4X4 = $74.70 and motorcycle = $22.50. Add it up for the year and Mr. Truckster shells out $1344.60 while Mr. On-Road Off-Road digs $405.00 out of pocket. Still only $939.60 difference. You won’t even have enough to pay for tires after you buy your gear. (Maybe that’s why folks ride without?)

But my commute is longer! Well, be that way. Say it’s 45 miles or 90 miles a day-450 a week. The same vehicles spend $2025 and $607.50. You’re getting all excited aren’t you. Well Bubba, you are now seeing a savings of $1417.50. Wait, I can ride from April to the last weekend in October! Eight more weeks! Well, maybe you can and it would save you $2047.50. Not enough to justify that $15,000 BMW you were looking at, is it?

On the other hand, step back a bit. So, it wasn’t as huge a saving as you thought. And you’re a little let down by the hard gures. Here’s the deal. Remember that $939.60 you saved in the second example? Divide that $939.60 by $4.50 and you have 208.8 gallons of gas FREE. (Figures subject to change…) Put those in your bike that savors them slowly at 60mpg and you have 12,528 miles to ride at no charge. (In fuel anyway) That alone sounds worth it to me. Math done, class dismissed, time to put my socks back on. (The cat is starting to make faces and is twitching its nose…) ,

AMA FIGHTS UNCONSTITUTIONAL CONNECTICUT “LOONEY” BILL THREATENING MOTORCYCLISTS’ RIGHTS

The American Motorcyclist Association (AMA) recently expressed outrage and began the ght against Connecticut’s proposed legislation, S.B. 96, which would presuppose that any street-riding motorcyclist killed would automatically become an organ donor if they were not wearing a helmet, something that’s currently legal under Connecticut state law for riders over the age of 18.

“The bill shows callous disregard for the motorcycling public,” said AMA Government Relations Director Mike Sayre. “Organ donation is a noble cause that regularly saves lives around the country, but the decision to become a donor is a deeply personal one — one that this legislation would take away from motorcyclists.”

When the AMA Government Relations Department contacted Senator Looney’s of ce, his staff responded that the bill was proposed to help x declining organ donation rates in Connecticut and dissuade motorcyclists from riding without a helmet. The staffer stated that their position was that if motorcyclists put their lives at risk by riding helmetless, they assume those riders don’t care where their organs end up.

The AMA urges Connecticut residents to take action by visiting www. votervoice.net/Motorcyclist/Campaigns/100162/Respond.

Concerned motorcyclists who don’t live in Connecticut can express their outrage by emailing Connecticut Senator Looney at Looney@senatedems. ct.gov or going to www.senatedems.ct.gov/looney-contact

AMA VINTAGE MOTORCYCLE DAYS

Permco AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days, America’s grandest celebration of vintage motorcycles and the people who love them, will take place July 21-23, 2023, at Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course in Lexington, Ohio.

One of motorcycling’s most diverse events, Permco AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days combines the thrill of amateur racing with North America’s largest motorcycle swap meet. Additional activities include a classic bike show, vendor displays, motorcycle demo rides, music, seminars, stunt shows and a range of experiences for fans of all ages. Proceeds from the event are donated to the American Motorcycle Heritage Foundation, a 501(c)(3) nonpro t that supports the AMA Motorcycle Hall of Fame.

AMA members can now purchase discounted tickets through the AMA at www.amavintagemotorcycledays.com. All camping and RV passes, as well as non-AMA member ticket sales, must be purchased at midohio. com starting Feb. 21.

U.S. HOUSE JOINS SENATEIN OPPOSING MOTORCYCLE PROFILING

On December 23, 2022, in one of the last actions of the 117th Congress before adjourning, the U.S. House of Representatives approved H. Res.366; “Promoting awareness of motorcyclist pro ling and encouraging collaboration and communication with the motorcycle community

and law enforcement of cials to prevent instances of pro ling.”

The House now joins with the U.S. Senate in passing separate resolutions opposing the discretionary profiling of motorcyclists by law enforcement, defining it as; “motorcyclist profiling means the illegal use of the fact that a person rides a motorcycle or wears motorcycle-related apparel as a factor in deciding to stop and question, take enforcement action, arrest, or search a person or vehicle with or without legal basis under the Constitution of the United States.”

BMW SEES BEST SALES YEAR ENTERINGTHE 100TH ANNIVERSARY

BMW Motorrad achieved the highest sales in its corporate history with 202,895 motorcycles and scooters handed over to customers, which is an increase of +4.4 % compared to the previous year. BMW Motorrad remains in rst place in the global premium motorcycle and scooter segment.

R 1250 GS and GS Adventure are the driving forces once again. The R 1250 GS and R 1250 GS Adventure boxer models achieved strong sales figures in 2022 again. With a combined total of almost 60,000 units, the two Adventure models made a significant contribution to the successful overall result achieved by BMW Motorrad.

LEGENDARY MOTORCYCLE DAREDEVIL ROBBIE KNIEVEL –R.I.P.

‘Kaptain Robbie Knievel’ followed his famous daredevil father, Evel Knievel, into the high-flying, bone-shattering world of motorcycle stuntriding, going on to break all of his dad’s jump records and even successfully clearing the fountains at Caesars Palace that famously nearly killed the elder stuntsman. Decked out in star-spangled leathers, Robbie Knievel landed more than 350 jumps over a deathdefying 30-year career, and he died January 13, 2023 of pancreatic cancer at his home in Reno, Nevada at age 60.

DUCATI ENDS 2022 IN EXTRAORDINARY FASHION

2022 confirmed itself as an exceptional year for Ducati, which closed the period with a record of 62,562 motorcycles delivered to enthusiasts around the world, an extraordinary result that complements Sales grew by 3.6 percent over 2021 and 28 percent over 2020. The Multistrada V4 is the most loved bike by Ducatisti with more than 10,000 motorcycles delivered worldwide during 2022. Ducati sales network continues its expansion reaching a record 821 dealerships worldwide.

HARLEY-DAVIDSON GOINGALL ELECTRIC • IT’STHEBEGINNINGOFTHEEND

American motorcycle company Harley-Davidson, known for its large-engine heavyweight cruiser motorcycles, is transitioning to become an all-electric brand, explains its CEO Jochen Zeitz.

“At some point in time, Harley Davidson will be all-electric,” he told Dezeen in an interview. “But that’s a long-term transition that needs to happen. It’s not something you do overnight.”

The Motor Company launched its rst electric motorcycle in 2018, named LiveWire, and according to Zeitz electri cation is the next logical step in the evolution of the brand that was established 120 years ago.

“If you look at the past 120 years, the company has always evolved, never stood still,” he said. “Now, like the founders did at the time by trying to reinvent or invent something unique, that’s obviously something that we as a company brand need to do as well.” Harley’s planned timeline to become fully electric is longer than many other auto companies, however, with several leading car brands stating that they will be all electric by 2030.

WE LOVE WYOMING!

A group of GOP Wyoming state lawmakers want to end electric vehicle sales there by 2035, saying the move will help safeguard the oil and gas industries, which employ thousands of people in the state. The measure, introduced to the state legislature on January 13, was sponsored by six state legislators, who said in it that electric vehicles will hinder Wyoming’s ability to trade with other states.  According to “The Hill,” the bill states that citizens and industries would be encouraged not to purchase electric vehicles before the ban goes into effect.

“The proliferation of electric vehicles at the expense of gas-powered vehicles will have deleterious impacts on Wyoming’s communities and will be detrimental to Wyoming’s economy and the ability for the country to ef ciently engage in commerce,” the bill reads.  The legislation further states that adding new power charging stations would require “massive” amounts of new power to “sustain the misadventure of electric vehicles.”

Fifteen other states, meanwhile, including New York and California, have moved toban gas-powered vehiclesales. ,

RUBBER SIDE DOWN - THE IMPROBABLE INCLINATIONTO TRAVELON TWO WHEELS BY RON DAVIS

A few years back I had the great pleasure of receiving Ron Davis’ book Shiny Side Up

For those not familiar with Ron, he pens monthly for the BMW MOA magazine and has a …. umm, unique way of looking at all things twowheeled.

I think what endears his writings to me is that it makes us look at ourselves and our shared love of riding – in an easy, happy, and not too self-important way. More often than not I nd myself totally relating to his pieces in one way or another. Usually - while laughing my ass off – which bites, as that causes my Aerostich suit not to t right anymore.

When I received this new book from Ron Davis, Rubber Side Down, my mind was thrown back to a story from his rst book. The gist of this particular missive was how economical you could be by changing your oil yourself.

Like with every endeavor – things didn’t work out quite as planned – but was funny as hell. Turkey roasting pans, lots of Kitty Litter. There was a dog passing through spilled oil and then into the house… carpeted house.

Ahh, good times, kids, good times.

But, those good times – well, according to Mr. Davis - are back. Just in time to help get me through my long-standing argument with Old Man Winter. Oh, yes indeed.

First off let me comment on the cover... BMW, Nolan Helmet, Cousin Jeremy Riding Suit –yep, we here at Backroads Central can relate. It is nigh on impossible to fully give you the scope and depth of Ron’s new book, as chapters and topics bounce around like lost way-

points on a defective Garmin – but every one of them either got me thinking or made me laugh – two things I truly enjoy.

But there is another Golden Side to Rubber Side Down - like Shiny Side Up this book should be left for non-riders to nd and peruse. They just might understand you a bit better - or never want to see you again.

The former is grand, the latter - well, better to nd out now. Like pulling a band-aid off a scab.

Right now, as I type this, it is 5 degrees behind the large glass wall in the of ce, with arctic bite oating down from Canada like a Chinese Spy Balloon that is probably over my house right now.

The Cast Iron Stove is at ‘11’ and Spenser T. Cat and I have a great spot on the couch – with a most excellent read in hand and cup of cocoa.

If you ride? If you can laugh at all the things we riders can do, will do, or have done – then order Rubber Side Down. It is like hanging out with a riding buddy that you haven’t met yet!

You can nd Rubber Side Down on the Aerostich website for $19.95. aerostich.com ,

Thisilldous Eatery presents GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN

CURTIS’ CONEY ISLAND FAMOUS WEINERS 35 N LIBERTY STREET, CUMBERLAND, MD 21502

301-759-9707 • WWW FACEBOOK COM/CURTISCONEYISLAND

The All-American Hot Dog. The German Weiner.

It is a staple of the American diet for generations, and generations count in the bustling small city of Cumberland, Maryland.

For sure there is a ton of history to be found along this part of the Potomac that divides Maryland and West Virginia. You’ll nd George Washington’s Headquarters from back when he was a British of cer and busy starting the rst real-world war between France and England. The cabin was originally built by General Edward Braddock’s men, between 1755 and 1758, for then Colonel George Washington’s use during his service in the French and Indian War. He later returned and used it brie y during 1794, then as the Commander in Chief, to review the troops gathered to put down the Whiskey Rebellion. This site is notable, as it signi es Washington’s rst military command.

Across the river, there is the Western Maryland Scenic Railroad which offers up both a bit of rail history of the region and scenic rail trips through the beautiful western parts of Maryland towards the town of Frostburg. If you are not touring the region on two wheels, taking a rail trip is always a whole bunch of fun; and something we do as much as we can.

Before we zero in on the real reason we rode to Cumberland, we’d like to mention the Allegany Museum. You will nd it taking two oors of a fully restored neo-classical revival building built in the 1930s. The Museum serves the Allegany

tasty places to take your bike

area, which is part of the Appalachia region. The Allegany area includes Allegany and Garrett Counties in Maryland, Mineral County in West Virginia, and Bedford and Somerset Counties in Pennsylvania. The Museum’s Mission is to engage the community by preserving and promoting the region’s unique heritage.

Last September, in addition to the regular exhibits. was the Whiskey Rebellion Festival. A fund-raiser for the museum that would include tastings, great food, an open beer and wine bar, gift bags, cigars, games, and re-enactors. Although this event was light of heart – the real Whiskey Rebellion was not, and it was the only time in United States history that a sitting president led troops into battle.

The Whiskey Rebellion was a 1794 uprising of farmers and distillers in western Pennsylvania in protest of a whiskey tax enacted by the federal government. The Whiskey Rebellion is considered one of the rst major tests of the authority of the newly formed U.S. government. Just knowing that Washington was on the march ended the rebellion.

But we didn’t come here for booze. No way. We came for the wieners! Oh yes, with all the history to be found here, for many the most important thing is a small walk-up restaurant that serves some of the most delectable weiners south of Brooklyn, New York.

Welcome to Curtis’ Coney Island Famous Wieners.

After three generations, Cumberland’s greatest destination is still the home of the original Coney Island Sauce. Curtis’ Coney Island Famous Weiners has been a staple of the downtown Cumberland, Maryland, area

since 1918. Yes, weiners, not wieners… after 100-plus years they can spell it any way they want, okay?

This was a Shira discovery when we were putting together some day-trip routes, that would be ignored, criticized, or both – but for those that made it to Curtis’ Coney Island Famous Weiners, there was nothing but smiles all around.

Can you imagine a restaurant that has been around for over a century, and serving the same thing for all that time?

Well, Curtis’ Coney Island Famous Weiners has done it… and done it well.

They even had the state of Maryland give them a Certi cate of Recognition from the Comptroller of Maryland, Peter Franchot, for their 100th anniversary.

“In recognition of your 100th anniversary. With gratitude for being a welcoming, friendly gathering place with great customer service and a variety of delicious foods, milkshakes, and oats in the Cumberland area. With special appreciation for your delicious Coney Island-style weiners and for being a notable historic landmark, best wishes for continued growth, success, and prosperity.”

Although you can get your hot dog any number of ways – the real Curtis experience is to have them topped with onion and chili. Add in some crinkle-cut fries and a soda and you are experiencing a Cumberland Classic. For those who prefer you can get burgers, chicken, ham & cheese, and sh sandwiches as well – but come for the wieners and stay for the wieners.

Geno, the owner, is about as friendly (slightly wild) as any restaurateur we have ever met and, in truth, Geno makes the visit all the more worthwhile as he simply adds to the avor of it all. And, there are a lot of avors happening on Liberty Street for sure.

While exploring the panhandle of Maryland, make time for a stop in Cumberland and tell Geno Backroads sent you. ,

Wytheville VA Tourism presents WE’RE OUTTA HERE

FIRETOWER CHALET 97 RIVER HILL DRIVE, BLOOMSBURG, PA 17815, WWW

VRBO COM/1008639 • AIRBNB $260 AVERAGE

With the advent of our modern world, seeking out places to go, things to do, and wonderful places to stay has gotten easier, and harder at the same time.

Information is a great thing. Sometimes it can overwhelm you. We guess that goes for the entire planet these days. Well, this month we think we have found the perfect place to escape from all of this, that, and the other thing.

Nestled in the Endless Mountains of Pennsylvania, just a stone’s throw above the Susquehanna River, you will nd The Firetower Chalet. Located on 70 beautiful hilltop acres, this AirBnB has everything you could want, need or desire in a well-deserved getaway.

It was built as a family getaway escape and it is available to all looking for something quiet, peaceful, and totally out of the ordinary.

This air-conditioned chalet features 1 bedroom, but two beds, a at-screen TV, and a kitchen with a microwave and a fridge.

All the amenities, including towels and bed linen, are provided and with a full kitchen, you can dine out, or simply park the bikes and enjoy a perfect evening and sunset on the wrap-around porch. There is a well-crafted stone repit for use as well.

If you are a stargazer this is an extraterrestrial heaven… literally.

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads

The chalet has a sun terrace. Guests at Modern Firetower chalet can enjoy hiking nearby or make the most of the garden.

The many windows that line the bedroom loft allow you to be greeted by the sunrise and lay comfortably and enjoy it sliding over the horizon to the west.

According to the owner and host Chris:

The Firetower Chalet takes inspiration from re watch towers found in western forests. You’ll have the whole house to yourself. On the rst oor, there is a full living area featuring seating, a smart TV, a fully stocked kitchen t-for-a-chef, and a bathroom. The kitchen features a refrigerator, electric stove, oven, microwave, sink, french press, Keurig, toaster, and waf e maker. In the bathroom, you’ll be treated to a spacious shower, sink, and toilet. Upstairs, the whole oor is dedicated to the master bedroom, with a queen bed featuring a comfy, tuft, and needle-adaptive foam mattress. The real star of the room, however, is the amazing views of the

Pennsylvania mountains and countryside visible from the windows all around the room. Under the bed are storage drawers for clothing and other items. The drawers also come stocked with extra linens in case they are needed. The high ceilings of the room give extra room for an upstairs loft, where there is an area perfect for children or another group. The loft is carpeted and has a mattress. Outside, there is a wraparound balcony with 360-degree views of the countryside. It’s the perfect spot to hang out with family and friends, and the views will take your breath away. Finally, the Firetower Chalet has a cable-suspended bridge that leads to a treehouse-style platform. The Firetower also has a downstairs patio, with an outdoor propane warmer, a repit, and a hammock., The Firetower Chalet is set on 70 acres of Pennsylvania countryside, which, of course, you are free to explore. There is plenty of wildlife active on the property including deer, bear, and turkey. Enjoy the natural surroundings of the beautiful Susquehanna valley. Hike along trails and see the river 400 feet below. The cabin is totally secluded and it feels remote.

The nal road leading to the Firetower Chalet is gravel, but very doable, if slightly adventurous.

While in the region there are a few things we really think you need to check out and experience for yourselves.

First, there is Bill’s Old Bike Barn and Museum, an extraordinary motorcycle and Americana museum, right outside Bloomsburg, Pennsylvania. William Morris opened it in 1998 to house nearly 200 vintage motorcycles and related memorabilia. The original museum was an outgrowth of his business at nearby Bill’s Custom Cycles. Today you will need hours to take in just about half of what is here. Then there is one of our happy places on Planet Earth – Knoebels Amusement Park – America’s Largest ‘Free’ Park. Like the good old days…. You roll up, park your bike in the Motorcycle-Only Parking,

and simply buy books of tickets as you go. Here are the rides you must go on… The Phoenix, ranked one of the best wooden rollercoasters in the nation, then do the Twister… fast, furious – you’ll be leaning like Peco Bagnaia. If the Flying Turns is open you must do this; it is the world’s only wooden bobsled rollercoaster! Each car leaves the rails for a ride controlled only by the forces of gravity and momentum. A modern remake of an old classic, this ride will not disappoint adrenaline seekers!

From here you are on your own – but whatever you choose to rideKnoebels will not disappoint.

This region has some seriously wonderful roads and the 115-mile oneway Rip & Ride GPX Route to get here, starting at the Delaware Water Gap, will be exquisite.

Mix in all this, with the Firetower and the spectacular roads and this time you will happily leave a message on Voice Mail….Sorry, we’re outta here! ,

You can download .gpx le here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/oqabcv

BMW Motorcycles presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERIOUS AMERICA

MONUMENTAL MYSTERIES

I recently read an article on an Atlas Obscura site about a monument called Utah’s Eerie Stone Cross.

The story went, according to Greg Christensen of Atlas Obscura, that “For decades a crudely constructed, 20-foot-tall cement and stone cross stood in a hollow on the northern outskirts of Kaysville, Utah. Marked with a large letter K in the center, the cross was known to locals as Kay’s Cross. It couldn’t be seen from any road and was on private property, undeveloped except for a few footpaths that meandered deep into the woods. Its secluded location, unknown origins, and proximity to the Kaysville Cemetery made Kay’s Cross a xture of urban legend.” Stories abounded of polygamy, mass murder, and eternal entombment –

you know, the usual. But on February 15, 1992, nearby residents reported hearing a loud boom. Deputies of the Kaysville police department made their way into the hollow to nd Kay’s Cross destroyed, apparently by 80 pounds of dynamite planted at the base; no arrests were ever made. Slingshot forward to last year.

Georgia Guidestones

The Georgia Guidestones was a granite monument that stood in Elbert County, Georgia, United States, from 1980 to 2022. The stones were 19 feet 3 inches tall and the structure was sometimes referred to as an “American Stonehenge.”

The structure, which was built in 1979, had long drawn curious visitors from around the world because of its unique design and cryptic messages. It was made of six granite slabs – a central monolith anked by four others and topped with a capstone – weighing a total of more than 100 tons. Holes in the pillars were aligned with the Pole Star and the Sun’s solstice and equinox, and one aperture allowed a ray of sun to pass through at noon each day to indicate the day of the year.

On it was also inscribed 10 elliptical messages in several languages, including Spanish, Russian, and Hebrew. They included “Maintain humanity under 500 million in perpetual balance with nature” and “Balance personal rights with social duties”.

At one time former Republican candidate for governor Kandiss Taylor called it “satanic” and campaigned on a promise to obliterate it.

On July 6th of 2022, the stones were mysteriously dynamited. The explosion was even caught on video. Taylor suggested the vandalism was an act of God. “God is God all by Himself. He can do ANYTHING He wants to do. That includes striking down Satanic Guidestones,” she tweeted.

Okay then. God used dynamite? Reminds me of Kirk asking, “What does God need with a Starship?”

And, speaking of our favorite Starship captain…

Future Birthplace of Captain James T Kirk

Riverside, Iowa

A number of years back I was reading one of the many books by my favorite author, Rand McNally, and on the two-page spread of Iowa, there was a small red star. The red star usually points out a place or town of interest. This one jumped out at me as it said – “Future Birthplace of Captain James T Kirk.” Really?

I remember this mentioned in the Star Trek ick with the whales - George and Gracie. The marine bi-

Morton’s

ologist says “Don’t tell me, you’re from outer space?” Kirk responds “No, I’m from Iowa. I only work in outer space.”

Hmmm. Road trip!

Gene Roddenberry’s 1968 book ‘Making of Star Trek’ declared that James T. Kirk would be born in a small Iowa town on March 22, 2228. The town wasn’t named in the book, but city councilman Steve Miller decided it should and could be Riverside, IA.

After erecting a monument claiming Riverside as the future birthplace of the famous character in the mid-’80s, the town changed its slogan from “Where the best begins” to “Where the Trek begins.”

I brought Shira here (okay, dragged without her consent or enthusiasm) during our F%$K COVID Cross-Country Tour in 2020. Indeed there is a monument, a replica of the Enterprise, and even a museum. All the Trek you could want.

But, not much else.

At the BMW Rally in Missouri this past spring we met a couple at a bar who were from Riverside. We told them we had visited and they apologized. Well, only 205 years till we nd out, right?

Hollow Earth Monument • Hamilton, OH

John Symmes, Jr., a 19th-century lecturer, had a theory: he believed the Earth was hollow.

While Jules Verne may have been the most famous writer to expound on the concept that the Earth is hollow, Journey to the Center of the Earth was explicitly a work of fiction.

Early-1800s lecturer John Symmes Jr., however, wanted to let people know that Verne’s visions were not as fantastic as they seemed…

Symmes’ Hollow Earth Theory posits exactly what you’d think: that the Earth is in fact hollow. According to Symmes, the empty center of the planet is accessible via shafts located at the north and south poles of the planet, as though Earth is some sort of celestial jewelry bead.

While the theory seems far-fetched by modern standards, Symmes was able to garner a strong amount of interest in the concept via his lecture tours, where he displayed his research into the magnetic elds that he claimed were proof of the holes at the poles. He garnered so much interest that he actually got Congress to vote on funding that would allow him to mount expeditions to the polar regions in the 1820s, where he guaranteed they would nd the entrances to the center of the planet. Unfortunately for him, the government did not share Symmes’ sense of wonder and the grant was voted down.

Symmes retired to Hamilton, and his theory outlived him, at least for a time, but you can see a statue, dedicated to this notion, with a hollow Earth sitting at the top.

Just another stop on the road through Mysterious America. ,

Warren County NJ Tourism presents BIG CITY GETAWAY

ROCK & HALLOF FAME

1100 ROCKAND ROLL BOULEVARD (EAST 9TH STREETAT LAKE ERIE) CLEVELAND, OH 44114 • 216-781-7625 • WWW ROCKHALL COM

Last year I found Eric Clapton’s autobiography on the shelf at a secondhand store in the Catskills. For the two bucks, I happily snatched it up and stowed it in my top case to be found a few weeks later – exactly around the time I was nishing another book and, as Clapton been a long-time favorite, I dove into his book.

Again and again, he mentioned one man - Ahmet Ertegun. Although I had heard the name before, the reverence and admiration Eric had for Ertegun was very plain to see. He loved this guy.

I now know why. For it was not just Clapton that had such reference for Ahmet but just about everybody else in the Rock & Roll business. Ertegun was Turkish by birth and was the founder of Atlantic Records. Although I am here to write about and tell you of how absolutely Rockin’ the Hall of Fame is… What I have learned about Ahmet Ertegun must be shared so we can get a grasp of who this man – who started the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame and took it from an idea to the reality it is.

In 1935, Ahmet and his family moved to Washington D.C. with his father, Munir Ertegun, who was appointed as the Ambassador of the Re-

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind

public of Turkey to the United States. When Ahmet was 14, his mother bought him a record-cutting machine, which he used to compose and add lyrics to instrumental records.

Ertegun’s love for music pulled him into the heart of Washington, DC’s black district where he would routinely see such top acts as Duke Ellington, Cab Calloway, Billie Holiday, and Louis Armstrong. He attended Landon School, an af uent all-male private school in Bethesda, Maryland. Ahmet joked, “I got my real education at the Howard” — Howard being the Howard Theatre, a historic performance space located in Washington, D.C.

Despite his af uent upbringing, Ertegun began to see a different world from his af uent peers. Ertegun would later say: “I began to discover a little bit about the situation of black people in America and experienced immediate empathy with the victims of such senseless discrimination, because, although Turks were never slaves, they were regarded as enemies within Europe because of their Muslim beliefs.” Ertegun and his brother assembled a collection of over 15,000 jazz and blues 78s and became acquainted with musicians such as Ellington, Lena Horne, and Jelly Roll Morton.

Ertegun graduated from St. John’s College, in Annapolis in 1944. In November of the same year, Munir Ertegun died. In 1946 President Harry Truman ordered the battleship USS Missouri to return his

body to Turkey as a demonstration of friendship between the US and Turkey. This show of support was meant to counter the Soviet Union’s potential political demands on Turkey. Soon afterward, when the rest of the family returned permanently to Turkey, Ahmet and Nesuhi stayed in the United States. While Nesuhi moved to Los Angeles, Ahmet stayed in Washington and decided to get into the record business as a temporary measure to help him through college.

We are so glad he did, for the rest is truly Rock & Roll History.

And, so… welcome to the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame! When we rolled up to the HOF we were more than pleased that they had Motorcycle-Only parking – for free – with a Cleveland Police SUV parked right across.

There is an entrance fee, but for a few bucks more you can become a member which comes along with a member’s tee-shirt. Sign us up! Why is this mecca of music here in Cleveland? Well, the city lobbied hard

for this and pledge over $65 million to it – and it does help that the phrase Rock & Roll was coined by Cleveland DJ Alan Freed.

Ground was broken on June 7th, 1993 with such music stars as Peter Townshend, Billy Joel, and Chuck Berry. A little over two years later the ribbon-cutting opening took place and the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame was a reality.

The pyramid-style build was designed by architect I.M. Pei and has seven levels and over 55,000 square feet of exhibition space – and it is full of everything rock!

From AC/DC and the Allmans to Zappa, the Zombies, and ZZ Top almost everyone and every band that has been inuential in popular music can be found here, and each year more and more artists take their rightful place.

In 2022 there was an induction that hit another remarkable high note as six women were inducted – the most female inductions ever - Benatar, Parton, Simon, Cotten, Robinson and Annie Lennox.

It is best to start at the top level and work your way down, and expect to spend most of the day here, as you will. I could list everybody, but Backroads is only so big – so, we’ll let a few pages of images tell the story for us. But, one of my favorite parts of the museum is The Garage. The Garage consists of ve main areas: Fans can pick up real instruments, learn to play, jam with friends, brand your band with custom merchandise, and check out great gear and instruments from the Museum’s collection.

While we were there, I got to sit in with the House Band on a cover of Tears for Fears’ mega-hit Everybody Wants to rule the World. My one step into the world of Rock and certainly a high point in my humble bit of musicianship.

If you believe that you, too, are a child of Rock & Roll then make the trip to Cleveland – for Cleveland Does Rock! Oh… what artist has been inducted the most?

Let us nish where we began; with just three words… “Clapton is God.” Eric Clapton is a consistent hitmaker and one of the greatest guitarists of all time; perhaps that’s why he is the only person to be inducted into the Rock Hall three times! Not bad Eric, not bad at all. ,

Gelato has been around longer than ice cream. And, yes, there is a difference.

There are varying accounts of the origin of gelato but all have it ofcially created in the 16th century.

Some credit the alchemist Cosimo Ruggieri, some the architect Bernardo Buontalenti, but all say it was rst served to the Medici family in Florence. With ice and salt being expensive, gelato was reserved for the rich and in uential. Sometime later, in the 17th century, the treat was made available to the public. And the rest, as the saying goes, is history.

While gelato is the Italian word for ice cream, there is a big difference between the two. The main differences between gelato and ice cream are density and dairy content. Ice cream, in the US, is required to contain at least 10% milk-fat, while the normal range is between 14-25. Since gelato is not considered ice cream, it does not have to meet this requirement (normal range is between 4-9) and, thus, has a lower milk-fat content as it uses more milk than cream. Many recipes delete egg yolks entirely, which is a main ingredient in a custard-based ice cream. Gelato’s process reduces the amount of air in the nal product, which makes it denser than ice cream and some say, more avorful. The nal difference is the temperature; gelato is a more warm-blooded dessert, served between 10-20 degrees while ice cream comes out at 6-10 degrees. Taste is enhanced when temperature is warmer, thus adding to the more intense avor sensations in gelato.

Gelaterias can more easily be found in the U.S nowadays. Rather than the deep tubs in the freezer cases, gelaterias’ cases have more shallow, rectangular containers, which are decorated with something relating to the avor they hold. Nocciola will be topped with hazelnuts or Stracciatella sprinkled with shards of chocolate. I recently was in Morristown, NJ, lunching with my sister. I arrived a bit early, so took a stroll down the main street. I wandered past Guerriero Gelato, making note for us to stop in for dessert, which we did. We found out that the Morristown shop just opened three days before, having three other shops in New Jersey, and they were highlighting some of their more unusual avors - lucky us! Mike Guerriero, Churner In-Charge, was busy scooping and serving while answering questions about avors and the difference between gelato and ice cream (something you now know).

After a turbulent childhood, Mike found his passion with his mentor, Sal Sigona (some say he introduced gelato to New Jersey) at the Gelotti shop in Paterson. In 2014 he got the keys to his rst Gelotti shop in Caldwell, with subsequent shops opening in Montclair and Pine Brook. In 2019, he was invited to enter the Gelato Festival America and Mike took top honors with his Blueberry Basil. This honor made him one of three to represent America at the Gelato Festival World Masters 2021 in Italy.

The shop was festive and very busy, just getting over their grand opening. We took our time looking at all the avors offered – and there were a lot – before making our decisions. Not only Mike, but the other servers were well-versed in all the avors and not hesitant at all to hand out samples. I tried Duck Sauce (apricots and ginger, just like what’s in duck sauce), Ube (purple sweet potato) and Baci (dark chocolate, nocciola di piedmonte, and salted almonds). All their gelatos are made daily in their Montclair shop, with farm fresh and imported Italian ingredients. We settled on three scoops each, Rowena with Cherry Vanilla, Espresso Chip and Chocolate Whiskey and I chose Coconut, Orange Cranberry Scone and their award-winning Blueberry Basil. As Mike says in the video on their website, “This combines blueberry, the state fruit of New Jersey, with over 90% of all blueberries in the world being cultivated from a plant that grew in New Jersey, the tartness of fresh-squeezed lemon juice and the earthiness of garden-grown basil.” All I can say is that it pops in your mouth, with the avors as bright and fresh as the colors of the ingredients it uses. Every single avor was expressive - the cherries full and satisfying, the chips in the espresso crunchy and full-bodied and the coconut transporting me to a tropical island. The

Chocolate Whiskey was, perhaps, the best chocolate I have tasted in a very long time and the Scone was a delightful departure from your ‘normal’ avors.

Should you nd yourself in any one of Guerriero’s locations, you would be doing yourself a disservice by not enjoying their delightful offerings, be it ice cream, gelato, Italian ice or any of the creations made with them. In addition, they offer Vegan alternatives, made with plant milk, which I’m sure are equally delicious, as Mike and crew are bringing you the ultimate in frozen desserts.

See each shop for individual hours and locations. As an aside, see how Mike was able to get to the Gelato Tournament, besides his incredible culinary talent, with an incredible bet through FanDuel - it’s worth the read: www.espn.com/chalk/story/_/id/26173974/how-fanduel-bookmaking-mistakeshook-world-competitive-gelato-making

ICE CREAM FOR BREAKFAST DAY

Saturday, February 4 was National Eat Ice Cream for Breakfast Day and we did. Taking a break from putting this issue together, we took a ride to Tranquility Farms in Andover, NJ where we met fellow Backroader Tony for some very tasty offerings. I had the Waffle Sundae with a scoop each of Milk + Cookies and Chubby Farmer, caramel sauce, Reeses Puff cereal, topped with bacon bits and just a touch of whipped

cream. Even though the temps were single digits, the smiles were abundant. With heated greenhouses in which to enjoy your breakfast, we hung around shooting the breeze and enjoying this wonderful holiday. See ya next year!

Here is a scary thought, as I look far back in the mirror. It was 1995, and two semi-successful, sometimes annoying acts began… Riverdance and Backroads. One was headed to worldwide triumph and legend, the other – (feh) legends in our own minds.

We’ll let you decide.

But this Riverdance has much to do with the latter, and just a little to do with the other– for it would need quick and precise moves with a partner. This would be our Riverdance, yet it could simply be called ‘A Tale of Two Rivers.’

This all started on a matchless Saturday in mid-September. It was one of those days that would reign superior on the calendar. Backroads Headquarters lies just west of the Delaware River, near where New Jersey, New York and Pennsylvania have their con uence.

Centuries ago, the Delaware was known as the West River (from a New Amsterdam point of view), a bit later it took on its current nomenclature. Where did the name Delaware come from?

In 1610 explorer Samuel Argall named the Delaware River and Bay for the governor of Virginia, Thomas West, Lord De La Warr and it morphed into Delaware.

With our rear wheel planted along the Delaware, we took off from the Walpack Valley, near Dingmans Bridge – one of the few privately owned bridges in the nation and with the West… I mean Delaware River in our mirrors we set off looking for a premier ride this day, right around noon when the sun rose to its zenith.

Spinning down into Sussex County Skylands, we followed the ‘5 & 6’ roads and crossed Route 94 – a road that runs nearly 80 miles in a straight and pretty but slightly boring manner, bridging the Delaware to Hudson Rivers. Some smaller farm roads, running along New Jersey’s Rails to Trails system, brought us to a favorite piece of asphalt we never get tired of - Beaver Run Road. This road has some great elevation changes and superior curvature along its way – especially near Hamburg.

It was then north along Route 23 before vectoring eastward again along CR 565 which would link us to the border with New York State.

Off Route 1, we rode down 94 for a short bit before lancing east on Route 17A from Warwick and up and over Bellvale Mountain, over which the Appalachian Trail crosses. It was still early in the day, so we gured we’d stop for ice cream at the creamery atop the mountain on our return trip – if we came this way.

We would not.

Our ride crossed over the narrow bridge at Greenwood Lake.

This big lake, the region’s largest, lies in both New Jersey and New York, and the lake was originally called “Quampium” by the Munsee Native Americans who lived there. It was renamed “Long Pond” by Europeans, who settled the area in the 18th century for farming and ironmaking, and eventually came to be re-christened “Greenwood Lake.” We mentioned we did not come back this way, and that was because of the yearly fête called the Renaissance Faire. This is an excellent way to spend a

nice late summer afternoon – but expect the crowds – and all that traf c is coming from the New York State Thruway and, thankfully, we had zero traf c along our direction – but this afternoon the cars stretch for mile coming the other way.

No thank you.

Route 17A runs right into Harriman State Park and here you will nd some of the best riding in this part of New York. Along with these premier roads, there are miles of lakes, forests, and trails to be discovered. It is a favorite with the sport-bike crowd and full leathers, not Levis, are the call of the day.

On the far side of Harriman State Park, all roads seem to run towards the famed Hudson River.

We talked a bit about the Delaware River, but the Hudson has been called many names by the Native tribes and European settlers as well. Ca-ho-ha-ta-te-a (“the river”) by the Iroquois, and the Muh-he-kun-netuk (“river that ows two ways”) by the Mohicans.

The rst known European name for the river was the Rio San Antonioas named by the Portuguese explorer in Spain’s employ, Esteban Gomez. For years it was called the North River and then the Manhattan River – before Hudson took the victory and became the OK-Supreme moniker for the 315-mile waterway (never New Hudson as some called it).

At the Bear Mountain Bridge, crossing one of the most beautiful river valleys and scenery in the entire United States, we headed north just a few miles on route 9N, to another special part of this bucolic region – The Barnstormer BBQ. Owned and operated by Geoff Provan, The Barnstormer has been serving up the best barbeque along the entire Hudson for decades – sorry Geoff – but we all have been doing this a long time – at least you have mastered your craft; we are trying to simply be less annoying!

In truth The Barnstormer has been a long-time supporter of this magazine, and when Geoff is not being a ‘Smoke Master’ he is on his Triumph exploring the backroads and BDR – one of us for sure and if you stop in - say hello – he loves to talk bikes.

On this day we ordered some of The Barnstormer’s chili, chicken, and a Caesar salad with beef brisket. It was plentiful enough to skip dinner later that night back home.

It was time to head back – once again running from river to river and we headed south past the bridge and the Bear Mountain Inn before heading up to the tower atop Perkins Drive.

This is a big-time destination for motorcyclists for decades and we were not surprised to nd old friends at the summit. It was good to catch up a bit and then take in the view of the Hudson River and valley below. Up here is one of the greatest vistas in the area, and all Quadrants around. Far to the south, you can make out the outline of New York – poking up like the Emerald City of Oz. Atop the mountain you will also nd the Memorial tower, built nearly nine decades ago, and named after George Wallbridge Perkins, the rst president of the Palisades Interstate Park Commission. The Appalachian Trail, which we had crossed three times already this day, also summits here before dropping down to the Hudson and continuing north to Maine. Our ride back was as smooth as silk, routing down Seven Lakes Drive and then up and over on the other side of Greenwood Lake, far from the ‘Huzzah Crowd’ at the faire. We then vectored west along Clinton Road. Readers of Backroads are aware of this 10-mile stretch as it has often been called the Scariest Road in the state of New Jersey.

So many tales have come from this one road – that looked bucolic and peaceful on this later summer day as the sunbeams dappled the late afternoon day. But, Clinton Road has had its share of dismembered bodies found in its

woods. Cross Castle did exist, and if you go to the wrong place, you will be chased. The KKK reportedly has had gatherings there, and there is always Satan worship. What is a spooky road without some Satan worship, right?  There also have been reports of strange animals hereabouts, and though no one knows what they are, many people have a theory that some of the survivors from Jungle Habitat have interbred.  We think these cryptids have been there long before Argall and Hudson sailed up their rivers.

Clinton Road dropped us off on Route 23 and unexpected Police activity had us detour a bit and we ended back on Beaver Run Road, which was just as much fun heading west as it was east.

As the sun was setting we rolled back up the drive of Backroads Central, and though we might have ridden to a familiar destination it was the backroads less taken that made this day trip into a true Riverdance.

Okay, I could and probably should end this here – but, no – undaunted our hero plunges on. In this story, there is a recurring geographic theme that is not apparent, yet is there all the same. One year’s subscription to Backroads and some Backroads swag to the rst reader who emails us the common thread. , ~ Brian Rathjen

Here at Backroads Central, we have been race fans for decades. Motorcycles, cars, planes… whatever!

In fact, the rst four editions of Backroads were created in the of ces of National Speed Sport News – a weekly racing publication that was owned by Chris Economaki, famed moto-journalist and the “voice” for so many races back in the day. Shira worked in their art department back then – and it has always been good to know Backroads had such a pedigree of sorts.

So, racing is a happy subject here.

North American motorcycle racing began in 1903 with the Federation of American Motorcyclists, which was created in New York City – Brooklyn to be exact. While motorcycle racing clubs were already big in Europe, the American federations primarily took off with the popularity of the new motorcycles. Since then racing has pushed both man and machines, and many of the advances brought to the track have found their way onto the machines we buy off the showroom oor. Racing pushes the envelope for the manufacturers and that is a good thing. So, when racing, especially road racing, comes into our area we do our best to attend.

For the last number of years, MotoAmerica, the premiere racing organization here in the United States, has had its penultimate race in Millville, New Jersey – at New Jersey Motorsport Park.

This facility has three tracks – Thunderbolt, Lightning, and the Go-Kart Track. The two former courses take their names from the P-47 and P-39 ghter aircraft that proved their worth in Europe and had the initial testing and ne-tuning at the air eld that resides next to the track.

approximately 40 acres of full-service paddock space. Amenities on this circuit include concession buildings, event garages, twenty VIP suites, banquet rooms, and a three-story timing tower with a media center.

A great track and every time we attend a MotoAmerica event we are struck at how family and fan-friendly they are. There was a Kid’s Zone to keep the younger ones occupied and they also offered 3-Day camping at the track as well as demo rides from Yamaha, Triumph and Aprilia.

The New Jersey MotoAmerica event was held on the second weekend in September. Backroads is headquartered in New Jersey, but Backroads Central is on one end of the state, and New Jersey Motorsports Park is located in the other.

Although the Garden State is the fth smallest in the nation, bridging the northeast to the mid-Atlantic states, it is still a good day’s ride to get from one end to the other.

The practice would start on that Friday afternoon, so we got an early start and began meandering south, more or less along the shores of the Delaware River crossing back and forth from New Jersey and Pennsylvania depending on who had the better roads, less traf c and a good lunch stop, which was found in a surprisingly empty New Hope.

Riding back into New Jersey near the Pine Barrens shows a far different New Jersey than what we see every day here in the northwest part of the state. The New Jersey Pine Barrens are the largest remaining coastal Pine Barrens in the nation and take up a whopping 1.1 million acres and lay in seven different counties. A different Jersey, for sure, but they give way to miles and miles of deep agriculture. The farming history runs deep here in the very southern part of the state and Clarence Birdseye, when he was looking for vegetables to package with his new ‘ ash freezing’ method, chose Seabrook farms. Today the farm still runs, although it shares a good part of it with a once high-end rehab to the stars.

These easy farm roads are a far better choice for riding than some of the busier Jersey roads that suffer from the molli cation of America.

We think these yers from 80 years ago would approve of the racing machines that do laps here now. As you enter the track, on the left before the bridge, there still stands a large concrete structure – a bore sight target used to calibrate the 50mm guns on these ghter crafts before being shipped to Europe. It is a great piece of American history to see when visiting New Jersey Motorsport Park.

The southern road circuit at New Jersey Motorsports Park is the signature track of the facility and Thunderbolt Raceway features 2.25 miles of asphalt with 12 challenging turns, a decent half-mile straightway, and

BACKROADS

We arrived just as practice was getting underway and we found our friends Lisa and Keene, who had already set Vela-Hep MotoAmerica Hospitality Tent, right at the chicane, one of the best vantage points along the entire 2.25 miles

MotoAmerica runs seven different classes. Superbike, Supersport, Junior Cup, Stock 1000, Twins Cup, and two classes not seen anywhere else on the planet – King of the Baggers and Super Hooligan. In addition, there is a very unique class sponsored by Royal En eld. Build. Train. Race. is a focused initiative that enables a group of individually selected female motorcyclists to customize and race-prep their own Royal En eld Continental GT 650 street bikes, then learn to race them, and ultimately compete in their own feature events during select MotoAmerica race weekends. The Royal En eld Build. Train. Race. Program is another one of MotoAmerica’s successful new undertakings, and it is wonderful to see women given such a chance in the sport.

For those of you who are not familiar with the other classes let’s take a closer look.

Superbike

MotoAmerica’s premier race class showcases America’s and some of the world’s best motorcycle road racers aboard high-horsepower, highly modi ed, production-based liter-class motorcycles that are capable of speeds approaching 200 miles per hour. These machines are positively bristling with the latest engine, electronics, chassis and suspension, and tire technologies.

Supersport

This is MotoAmerica’s middleweight race class, and Supersport features the series’ rising stars competing aboard production-based motorcycles that are slightly less powerful than Superbikes, but are no less exciting to watch. Known for their sharp handling and high corner speeds, the class is always competitive and Supersport bikes provide for close racing and razor-thin margins of victory.

Junior Cup

We love this class as it is MotoAmerica’s entry-level race class, STG Junior Cup is one of the rst steps that young motorcycle riders take in pursuing their professional road racing careers. Competing aboard smaller-displacement, production-based motorcycles (almost all Kawasaki Ninja 400s) these racers serve up some of MotoAmeri-

ca’s most compelling battles. It’s not uncommon to see the riders going head-to-head in large packs with three or four motorcycles going sideby-side into the turns. These road racers may be young, but they display talent and racecraft well beyond their years.

Shira did an article on young Kayla Yaakov and was tickled to meet her during the weekend and put that issue of Backroads into this young lioness’ hand. Needless to say, we are huge fans of this tiny 15-year-old young woman.

Stock 1000

This is a direct feeder class for Medallia Superbike, Yuasa Stock 1000 allows MotoAmerica riders to gain experience aboard 1000cc production-based motorcycles as they hone their skills with an eye toward moving up to Superbike. Many of the Yuasa Stock 1000 riders also compete in the Medallia Superbike Cup, which enables them to also compete in Superbike races and see how they stack up against the

Twins Cup

best riders and production-based motorcycles in the country, as well as around the world.

Earlier that week we had run into Manhattan for a little Meet & Greet with Corey Alexander at the Car Club of NYC. We have known Corey and his family (Hudson Valley Motorcycles in Ossining, NY) for years and it has been superb to watch his race to the top - especially this season on a BMW S1000RR.

Putting lighter-weight, twin-cylinder motorcycles in the spotlight, REV’IT! Twins Cup is a rapidly evolving race class that initially enabled regional and club racers from around the country to step up to the MotoAmerica series and compete on a national level. Now the Twins Cup has become a stepping-stone for young riders who want to move up from STG Junior Cup and don’t feel quite ready for Supersport. The Twins Cup is also increasing in popularity due to the manufacturers introducing more and more of this category of motorcycles. New models like the Aprilia RS 660 and Yamaha YZF-R7 are the perfect choices for REV’IT! Twins Cup competition, along with the venerable Suzuki SV650 and Kawasaki Ninja 650. For us, it is the best-sounding race class of all.

King of the Baggers

What started as a novel idea has become one of MotoAmerica’s most popular and fastest-growing race classes. Touring motorcycles from Harley-Davidson and Indian form the basis for Mission King of The Baggers, but these motorcycles are far from gentle cruisers.

By the time the teams, aftermarket companies, and riders get done with these bikes, they are bona de road racers with much-improved ground clearance, race-ready suspensions, aggressive ergonomics, and all sorts of engine modications that deliver eye-popping performance.

Touring fairings and hard side bags are part of the formula, but even those are highly modi ed through the use of carbon ber and other exotic materials.

Although it always gets moto-heads shaking their heads in disbelief, this is a serious class and the competition is ferocious.

MotoAmerica runs races on both Saturday and Sunday and the rst part of the weekend had bright skies and warm temperatures - and maybe just a bit too many Lantern Flies which we all killed with abandon and zeal.

Food-wise there were several trucks serving up all things delicious and that day’s qualifying and racing did not disappoint.

We overnighted for the weekend at The Inn at Sugar Hill in Mays Landing, about a 20-mile drive from Milleville, and were joined there on the second night by friends David and Alma.

Sunday, which had been promised to be stellar, was far less so, and rain was on its way from early afternoon on.

MotoAmerica got their program going fast and a lot of Championships were determined here – even though there was one more race weekend to go at Barber Motorsports, in Alabama a few weeks later.

Josh Herrin claimed the championship for the Supersport Title during Saturday’s race and Corey Alexander, needed fth or better to bring the U.S. Championship back to Ossining, New York, which he did.

In a rain-splattered Superbike Race Italian and MotoGP star, Daniello

Petrucci danced between the raindrops to take the checkered ag –but Jake Gagne would take the championship at Barber later that month.

In the King of the Baggers Class, the big winner was Tyler O’Hara, although Kyle Wyman won both races. Wow – two wins and Hannah Lopo too?

Although Gus Rodio won Saturday’s race it was our gal Kayla that ran away in the rain after a Red Flag restart to take her third win of the season – she is certainly a young racer to watch.

We really enjoyed the women running on the Royal En elds and the battle between Crystal Martinez and Chloe Peterson was awesome. A missed

shift by Peterson gave Martinez the opportunity to slip by at the last moment for the win.

In the Twins Class Blake Davis easily notched the wins both days and, at just 16 years old, is another young racer to keep an eye on.

By mid-afternoon, the rains seemed to have decided to stay put over the track and we decided to scoot back north before the really hard stuff began coming down – still, it was an awesome three days of MotoAmerica magic.

This year, we are including the stop at PittRace, outside of Pittsburgh, PA, in our Grand Tour Rally August 9 through 18. The races are the weekend of August. 18-20. We hope you’ll join us for this stop and the series will be back at New Jersey Motorsports Park Sept. 22-24 - let the green ag drop! ~ Brian Rathjen ,

KLIM OUTRIDER WOMEN’S PANTS - STYLISH, COMFORTABLE PROTECTION

ATGATT—All The Gear, All The Time—has become a pervasive phrase within motorcycle culture (and one fully embraced by Backroads). But sometimes riders prefer something a little less restrictive, a little cooler, a little more exible, and, dare I say—a tad more stylish—for a day when running errands rather than racking up miles tops the to-do list.

Klim Motorcycle Gear lls that void with their new men’s and women’s Outrider Motorcycle Pants. The Outriders look like standard ve-pocket jeans but offer advanced and comfortable protection in the form of the included D30® Ghost Limb armor in the knees and hips.

D30® Armor slots as one of the foremost names in motorcycle crash pad safety. Its Ghost Limb Protectors, featured in several pieces of Klim gear, are unlike most other armor in their thinness, exibility, low pro le, and breathability. But despite their higher comfort level, they exceed CE Level 1 certi cation. CE is a European standard of protection mandated in motorcycle gear used on the street. The United States doesn’t require motorcycle street gear to have this protection but has adopted the ratings. While Level 2 armor provides the most impact protection, Level 1 is the most frequently found in riding gear.

For a rider, this means sleek-looking gear rather than bulky…no Incredible Hulk pro les here. I previously reviewed the Klim Women’s Marrakesh jacket that uses the same armor and found it incredibly comfortable. The Outrider pants follow suit.

Color choices are two…brown or black. I opted for the non-traditional brown. It reminds me of the shade usually found on Carhart’s work clothes, and I like that it provides a different look from typical biker black. The pants are slim-legged but roomy; when sitting on a motorcycle, they don’t uncomfortably squeeze your thighs or butt. But don’t expect these pants to t over touring riding boots. The slim leg styling meant I had to tuck the pant legs inside my boots; however, the thinner material felt comfortable and didn’t bunch inside. The Klim website shows a woman motorcyclist wearing them with a lower-rise riding sneaker, also an option. If worn that way, a rider can fold up the cuff to reveal a re ective rear strip of material. The pants have two handwarmer pockets, two pockets on the backside, and a side leg pocket described as a “phone” pocket, but I found it too small to t my Samsung Galaxy phone.

The pants’ construction features sixtysix percent cotton, thirty-two percent polyester, and two percent spandex, a fabric Klim calls “durable, breathable stretch canvas.” The pants are unlined and reinforced in the knees and cuffs. Inside, at either hip, are pockets for the armor, which slide in easily. The knee armor pocket sits on the pants’ exterior so the rider can remove it quickly with minimal fuss; hook and loop fasteners easily secure the knee protection inside the pocket when back on the bike.

I found the sizing accurate and appreciated that, unlike many garments with Lycra, the knee and rear area didn’t stay stretched but returned to the regular shape even after days of wear. I also like the backside styling with two belt loops in the center of the waist to hold the pants close to the body (no underwear peeking out above the waistband) and a tasteful leather patch bearing the Klim logo. The Outrider pants washed well—directions say to remove the armor, use cold water on a gentle cycle, and machine dry. I instead let mine air dry, and they were ready to go in a couple of hours.

These pants worked perfectly for their intended use…as a cooler, more comfortable alternative for daylong jaunts to my normally-used Klim Altitude pants (I still used the Altitude for long-mileage travel days). During a 2,300-mile New England trip, where temperatures reached the mid- ‘90s throughout Maine, I never felt overheated. I felt cooling air owing while riding, even though the pants were not perforated or ventilated. While hiking at the top of Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park, they stretched and moved, and I physically felt very comfortable. Upon remounting my motorcycle, I mentally felt more comfortable knowing I had protection within my gear.

These pants do not have Kevlar panels, don’t purport to hold up under skids like other riding jeans, and are not waterproof. But the Outriders warrant consideration for a comfortable pair of riding pants that offers some serious protection in addition to serious style.

They retail for $199 and come in regular and tall sizes. For more information, visit the website at www.klim.com. ,

Yes, I am a pirate, two hundred years too late

The cannons don’t thunder, there’s nothin’ to plunder

I’m an over-forty victim of fate

Arriving too late, arriving too late

A Pirate Looks at 40   Jimmy Buffett

Maybe Mr. Buffett thought he was arriving too late – but you, our friends, still have plenty of time to be part of the big festivities as Americade looks at 40.

Back in 1983 a rally was started that would nd a home for four decades in the little village of Lake George, in the Adirondacks of New York State. Americade. We can say, without any doubt, that this yearly event, traditionally found in the beginning of June – changed our riding lives – and it all the good ways.

For a few years we had heard about the “World’s Greatest Touring Rally.”

We think when things hit forty, anything that happened before can be called a legend; and legend has it that the start of Americade really took place in Ruidoso, New Mexico, and was called Aspencade. The name came from an annual civic festival, which celebrated the changing colors of the aspen trees, by having a cavalcade of horses. Dutcher arranged with Aspencade organizer, Til Thompson, to use the Aspencade name for a rally he was organizing in the northeast in the town he lived in - Lake George.

In 1986, “Aspencade East” was changed to “Americade”, because the new name better sig ni ed the multi-brand national-sized rally it had become. By 1986, total attendance was nearly 10,000, making it the largest touring rally in the motorcycle world.

Each year attendance grew and grew – but the down-home avor of Americade never really changed; and unlike so many other “biker” rallies that were call then the SUYT crowd - this rally always had a kinda family-feel to it. It seemed some nights there were more people piled up to the dairy bar for ice cream than the saloons for beer. Although planning such an event is a momentous task, we have always felt it was the hundreds of volunteers that made the whole thing work.

If you have ever been an Americade volunteer… Thank You!

With Americade 2023 – the rally turns 40 and…..

To celebrate Americade’s 40th rally, it’s adding substantially to the festival-like event they’ve created with the addition of a free street festival, free concerts on Friday and Saturday, a daily vintage/ custom motorcycle show featuring an emphasis on 1983, and more.

One of the nighttime highlights will be special concerts with some of the best bands in the north east, hot air balloons lit up at night, and a special motorcycle stunt show performing on stage.

“Wrinkles only go where smiles have been” sayeth Jimmy Buffett.  So, get ready for some more wrinkles, because Americade’s 40th is likely to create lots of smiles. Keep track of news, registration and other information here: americade.com or on the Americade Facebook page: www.facebook.com/americade , TELL

A lot of history has happened along the Hudson River just north of Harriman State Park.

It was through these waters that the Continental Army ran a heavy iron chain to stop any British Warships from sailing and it was here that the HMS Vulture picked up the traitorous Benedict Arnold after his treasonous act.

Across from West Point, along the eastern shore, is the hamlet of Garrison -a.k.a. Garrison’s Landing – and it was named after 2nd Lieutenant Isaac Garrison, who held a property lot on the Hudson River across from West Point and conducted a ferry service between the two hamlets. In more modern times Barbara Streisand lmed Hello Dolly here and it seems that, for such a small part of the Hudson River, many famous people have called Garrison home. Hamilton Fish, one of Teddy Roosevelt’s Rough Riders, is buried here and Don Mclean, the musician who gave us one of the greatest American songs – American Pie - called Garrison home. Sticking with Rock & Roll avor, Patti Hearst lived here – way after she heard the burst of Roland’s Thompson Gun. New York Governor George Pataki also called this tiny hamlet home. But, as important as some of these people were, I bet they didn’t have even one Honda NR750. The Garrison gent we’d like to tell you about, Andre Grasso, has two!

another Honda – today the collection is nearing at the century mark.

Over the years we had heard about Andre’s collection. A recent article in Roadracing World, followed by an email from our friend Jon Seidel, who worked for American Honda for years and is currently cataloging their collection, asking if we were aware of Black & Gray and Andre’s collection brought it back to our attention.

We have had some of Black & Gray’s Hi-Per Hangers for years, as these are some of the nest hangers on the planet and easily hold a full set of leathers, so we were aware of the company.

With Jon’s urging I reached out to Andre’ and he invited us to stop by whenever we wished to see the Black & Gray Collection.

Black & Gray is just north of the Bear Mountain Bridge, right on Route 9, and so we rode over one pleasant autumn day. The side door was open and as we walked in we called out to see if anyone was there.

Grasso spent years at the head of Index Industrial Design, dreaming up, designing, and creating all sorts of things for all sorts of clients. At Black & Gray today there is still plenty of Hertz Car Rental products to be seen.

Grasso was not a motorcycle rider from the start, nor was he a street rider, but caught the bug in his early 30s when invited to do some track time in New Hampshire. After learning the basics and spending more and more time on the track, it quickly meshed with his DNA. A few years later he picked up the rst of his “collection,” a CB350 from a friend, and went about restoring the old machine.

A graduate of Pratt, he is persnickety (in a good way) about restoration and when things are restored even Soichiro Honda would not see anything out of line.

This one machine and the satisfaction of a restoration job well done, led to another Honda and then

THE BLACK & GRAY COLLECTION ONETHAT MR. HONDA WOULD APPROVE

This brought Andre’ around and after introductions, he gave us a nickel tour and a little bit of his and his place’s history. We could see his track bikes on display and his day-to-day machines. Nothing that unusual but for the fact that one of the street rides is an NR750. Riiiiight. Okay, then.

In another room there is a pristine NR as well. This one will never see the pavement; it is a true museum piece for sure.

But, it was the machine next to it that really caught my eye. Is that? Oh my God, I thought. It is…

In 2016 Grasso was able to purchase an RC213V S. This machine was hand built and in reality, was Honda’s MotoGP machine turned into a street bike.

If you want to see one you would have to watch MotoGP from the mid 20-teens, as this was the machine that Marc Marquez and Danny Pedrosa were riding for HRC in 2015. Honda had built about 300 of these machines, but to get one in the United States would be an incredible feat. Grasso was able to pull this off.

Honda insisted on the RC213V S being picked up from a Honda dealer and for years Andre’ had been doing business with Shawnee Honda, a dealership some 1,500 miles to the west in Shawnee, Oklahoma.

Years back Grasso had been out to the Sooner State, where Hertz was doing business, and he asked if there were any local Honda dealers. There was, and Andre’ has been doing business with them exclusively for years now; so when Honda agreed to sell him a street version of a MotoGP machine it was decided that Oklahoma would be the place. There is a short lm on the Black & Gray website that shows Grasso meeting Honda who had Kevin Erion, a Honda legend himself, drive the bike to the mid-west and other Honda personnel also came – as this was a very, very big deal. It is fun to watch.

Today this bike sits in a room with the NR750. One room, hidden above the Hudson River, where our Revolutionary War could have been lost if not for the discovery of Benedict Arnold’s treason, which might have more Honda tech, horsepower, and magic than any other room on the planet. As Dave Matthews Band would sing… Funny the way it is.

In a far larger room sits many of the other Honda’s in the Black & Gray Collection. The machines range from the early and late 60s, including a 1969 sand cast CB750 with no miles, to the bigger machines of the 70s and 80s. More modern bikes are mixed in with older classics. A stunning CBX, a few Interceptors (I love the 500), also a rst-year Gold Wing with a backdrop of Vetter fairing and saddlebag boxes – that have the original Vetter fairing and luggage in them. Across from that is the rst Honda Gold Wing Interstate. It was nice to see that Andre’ gives that great nod to Craig Vetter; for

it was his fairings and saddlebags that gave Honda the idea to turn the Gold Wing from a badass, overengined superbike into a cross-continent tourer.

Vetter invented the game, but Honda perfected it.

When asked why only Hondas, Andre’ has said that, as an engineer and designer himself, he has always admired Soichiro Honda, his work ethic and how he started his company from the dust of World War II, and how innovative and original Honda has been.

There are so many machines to be seen here – in fact maybe too many, for as big as Black & Gray’s building is – Andre’ is running out of space. But, as an engineer and incredibly creative man, we are sure he will gure this out as well.

Andre’ Grasso and Black & Gray would be happy to show individuals and small riding groups the collection. You can contact Grasso from the Black & Gray website at blackandgray.com. ,

STILLWATER MOTORCYCLE GALLERY OPENSAT AMERICA’S TRANSPORTATION EXPERIENCE MUSEUM

New Exhibit Pays Tribute to Harley-Davidson’s York Facility’s President’s Contributions

Ralph Swenson of York, Pennsylvania, helped save Harley-Davidson Motorcycle Company as one of the thirteen investors/employees who bought the company in 1981, preserving a monumental chunk of American motorcycling history. Fitting, then, that his name and legacy now gain their own chapter in motorcycling’s history book with a new, permanent display at America’s Transportation Experience (AACA Museum) in Hershey, Pennsylvania.

The exhibit honors and acknowledges Swenson’s particular contributions to and involvement in the CPR efforts that breathed renewed life into Harley-Davidson during a tumultuous period bookended by that now-legendary buyout by those thirteen investors from Harley’s parent company, AMF Industries, to H-D becoming a publicly traded company in 1987.

While the museum has showcased motorcycle history in various exhibits (as reported in Backroads Magazine), this marks the rst time twowheeled machines have received a dedicated gallery. “This is the most signi cant step we’ve taken to establish a permanent home for our continuous motorbike-related exhibits,” said Rob Kain, Director of Museum Advancement and co-curator for motorbike activity.

The new gallery wears the look and feel of a vintage motorcycle shop dubbed “The Stillwater Motorcycle Works Gallery.” Swenson’s New York City-based family maintained a country home in Stillwater, New Jersey, (just down the road from Backroads Central) a town with a motorcycle shop that he remembered fondly. Contributions from the Ralph and Madeline Swenson family funded the new permanent motorcycle gallery.

The Swenson family’s children and grandchildren attended the autumn ribbon-cutting ceremony for the gallery. They donated much memorabilia from Swenson’s time at York, which dates to 1972 when he transferred from Brooklyn, New York, to there while working for AMF. The HarleyDavidson Final Assembly Operations moved to York in 1974, and the company named Swenson its Division President in 1975. He retired from Harley-Davidson in 1986. During his tenure, he directed the manufacturing

of everything from sporting equipment to bombs to motorcycles. He died in 2006.

Photos, journals, advertising, motorcycle gear, and more line the display’s cases and walls, but two motorcycles deserve special attention. Following the buyout, each investor rode a specially-made and specially-numbered (Swenson’s was number 11 of 13) black Harley-Davidson from York to the Milwaukee plant; none sported a sidecar except Swenson’s Tourglide, whose wife, Madeline, rode in that rig during that journey. The other motorcycle, a white 1987 Electra Glide Classic Touring bike with a sidecar,

name but also for his design abilities. Swenson also secured non-motorcycle contracts, such as from the U.S. government to build bombs, to help keep the company alive during those early days.

Much of the limelight during that heyday fell on some of the other investors, but Jessica Tanzola said her grandfather didn’t mind. “He was the most humble man, and you would never know any of this just meeting him,” she said of the man she called ‘Pop-Pop,’ who she said would never leave the plant on Christmas Eve until he had shaken the hand of every worker to wish them a happy holiday.

Carol remembers how her parents would ride a motorcycle to her house every Sunday morning—her mom in the sidecar—bringing warm donuts for the family. Even though he didn’t let his daughter ride a motorcycle, he would take his grandchildren for sidecar rides around the farm. An avid golfer, he often rode his rig to the course, using the sidecar as a handy place to stow his clubs.

ferried the Swenson’s down Wall Street when, joining other motorcycleriding H-D executives, they celebrated H-D becoming a publicly-traded entity. That day made history, marking the rst time the New York Stock Exchange welcomed a motorcycle to its oor. Swensons’ matching, colorcoordinated out ts from those special occasions—white and black—decorate the display’s walls.

The exhibit also pays tribute to Madeline Swenson, who, according to daughter Carol Tanzola, played a role in the decision for her husband to become part of the buyout. “Mom looked at Dad, and Dad said if we don’t do it, we’ll move to White Plains, and I’ll be behind a desk. I don’t want to do that. I love being on the shop oor. Let’s buy in.” Mom said, “Let’s do it.” The rest of the story is history.

Tanzola also said her mother didn’t want the memorabilia to languish unseen. “Mom said, ‘Don’t let that stuff sit in the attic….people need to understand what happened. Put it somewhere where people can understand the history.”

According to Tanzola, and her daughter, Jessica, Swenson deserves credit for putting much of thenancing deal together that allowed the thirteen investors to buy Harley-Davidson. He worked ceaselessly with Milwaukee Division President Vaughn Beals, his counterpart, arranging the nancing package so the group could buy H-D from AMF. He also coaxed Willie G. Davidson into the group, which Swenson felt the resurrected company needed, not just for his

Son Gary Swenson said he remembered his dad as dedicated, humble, unassuming, who often said, “there’s no fun like work.” At the same time, his mother, who shepherded the household when her husband often traveled, was “strong-willed, practical, and loving.”

Viewing the displays of the Stillwater Motorcycle Gallery, you can feel the thrum of spirit and commitment, of joy in the job, through the patches, pins, documents, and photos. Said granddaughter Jessica on the exhibit opening, “I can hear their voices; I can feel them here.”

To learn more about an unsung hero of Harley-Davidson and see the gallery and other displays, visit America’s Transportation Experience (AACA Museum) in Hershey, PA. The museum’s next motorcycle exhibit, set to open this spring, will celebrate the century-long history of BMW motorcycles. For more information, visit www.aacamuseum.org ,

~ Pamela Collins

ROLLS-ROYCE & BENTLEY MUSEUM

89 HEMPT RD., MECHANICSBURG, PA 17050

717-795-9400 • ROLLSROYCEFOUNDATION.ORG

What do Tony Curtis, Queen Latifah, Jay Leno, Jennifer Lopez, John Lennon, Elizabeth Taylor, Andy Warhol, and Lady Penelope have in common?

They all owned Rolls-Royces. Anyone who was anybody had or has one. Even the British puppet sci- show Thunderbirds had a Roll-Royce, FAB 1, in hot pink.

The Rolls-Royce story starts at the beginning of the last century. In 1904, founders Charles Royce and Henry Rolls set out to build the best cars in the world. Almost 120 years later, this recognition is still undisputed and the name Rolls-Royce has become synonymous when anyone describes the absolute and very best.

Located, ironically, in the town of Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania on a small side road, you will nd the Roll-Royce Foundation. This is America’s Museum and Research facility for everything Roll-Royce or Bentley. We were heading south and knew we’d be passing by so we reached out to the folks at the foundation, which is also home to the Rolls-Royce Owners Club of America, and arranged to stop by and get a tour of their facility.

First a little background… How it all began:

Born in 1877 in London’s af uent Berkeley Square, Charles Stewart Rolls was the third son of Lord and Lady Llangattock. Think Downton Abbey.

and became interested in building motor cars. He had an instinctive desire for perfection and an innate work ethic that later became a pillar of Rolls-Royce’s philosophy: “Take the best that exists and make it better.”

By the end of 1903, he had designed and built his rst petrol engine – and in April 1904, he drove his rst Royce 10-hp motor car into town.

Henry Edmunds, a shareholder in Royce’s company and a friend of Rolls, was boasting to him about his new 10 hp Royce motor car. At the time, Rolls was frustrated at only being able to sell imports, so Edmunds arranged a meeting with the man behind the 10hp. Little did Edmunds know that the meeting he organized would change the future of motoring forever. Rolls and Royce rst met on May 4th, 1904 in Manchester. Within minutes of seeing Royce’s twin-cylinder 10hp, Rolls knew he had found what he was looking for. After taking the motor car for a drive, Rolls agreed on the spot to sell as many motor cars as Royce could build, under the name Rolls-Royce.

Creating a brand requires vision. So, while Rolls and Royce were busy building and selling motor cars, it was Rolls’ partner, Claude Johnson, who stepped into the role of Managing Director and expanded the edgling company’s reputation. A genius at publicity, Claude Johnson was so integral to the success of the company that he became known as ‘the hyphen in Rolls-Royce’.

One of the most iconic symbols of this car is the Radiator Mascot, the lovely statue that sits atop a Rolls-Royce radiator. The Spirit of Ecstasy. It is in the form of a woman leaning forwards with her arms outstretched behind and above her. Billowing cloth runs from her arms to her back, resembling wings. You will nd her in various forms on every Rolls-Royce.

On a side note, although remembered for his cars, Charles Rolls was also one of the rst yers and was, sadly, the rst British aircraft fatality when the tail of his Wright Flyer broke off in a ying display at age 32.

By the time he left university, Rolls was already an accomplished motorist. In 1903, he broke the world land speed record in Dublin driving a 30hp Mors at nearly 83mph. But because the timing equipment was not approved, the governing body refused to acknowledge his accomplishment.

To fund his sporting activities, Rolls set up one of the rst car dealerships in Britain with his friend Claude Johnson: CS Rolls & Co. Together they imported and sold Peugeot motor cars from France and Minerva motor cars from Belgium.

In contrast to Rolls, who had had a privileged upbringing, Henry Royce was working by the age of nine. Born in 1863 in Peterborough, England, Royce sold newspapers and worked as a telegram boy before his fortunes changed.

Royce eventually bought a second-hand two-cylinder French Decauville

DISCOVERTHE SPIRITOF ECSTACY - VISITA ROLLS-ROYCE

Today Rolls-Royce Motor Cars Limited is a British luxury automobile maker which has operated as a wholly-owned subsidiary of BMW AG since 2003. They are still, well… Rolls-Royce.

At the museum, the executive Director, Mark Lizewskie, took time out of his day to show us around the buildings that make up the museum.

From older cars to some one-off racers to the more familiar names like Silver Shadow and Silver Cloud, and more modern-looking RollsRoyces like the Camargue. Some of these cars have become Hollywood stars as the foundation is often asked to provide cars for lms and television shows Like ‘The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel’ and ‘Hustle’ with Adam Sandler and Robert Duvall.

All the cars are special indeed, but we were also taken with the room full of the original paintings done by Melbourne Brindle; arguably one of the

most famous artists of automobiles ever. His paintings at the museum show Rolls-Royce throughout history and re ect the time, era, and happenings of each car and time.

Amazing – grasping a bit of history in the background of each illustration.

The museum is truly a repository for all things Rolls-Royce and there are cars continually coming in and out to be rebuilt and worked upon.

Their collection, which holds books, technical manuals, handbooks, sales literature, and periodicals, as well as historic documents that document individual chassis, is unmatched on the planet.

Just walking around the Rolls-Royce & Bentley Museum you get a sense of time and provenance. The place has a slight bouquet of oil, gas, leather, and class – if we could get this aroma into a spray can we’d be rich.

The Rolls-Royce & Bentley Museum is a wonderful stop if you have an interest in and respect for one of the most famous automobiles and companies in history.

The foundation asks that visitors schedule tours in advance and you can learn a bit more at their website: rollsroycefoundation.org. ,

The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A

GROUNDED… SOMETIMESIT’SBESTTOKEEPITINTHEBARN

A few weeks back our friend Bruce Davis posted a video of the start of the 1998 Belgium Formula 1 Race. From the start of the day, the conditions were wicked, and visibility was almost non-existent. This race ran entirely in extremely wet weather, and on the rst lap, David Coulthard lost control of his McLaren, causing a multiple collision involving thirteen drivers, which led to the race being stopped. After a delay of more than an hour to clear the track, a second attempt was made to start the race, albeit without four of the drivers involved in the incident. At the restart, championship leader and pole-sitter Mika Häkkinen spun his McLaren at the rst corner and was hit by the Sauber of Johnny Herbert, forcing them both to retire from the race.

The television announcer’s calling of the race says it all… “YES! Yes, it’s go! And...Coulthard drags. Hakkinen gets away well, look at Eddie Irvine coming up on the inside, Villeneuve goes up into second position! Schumacher is down into about 6th position. Bad start by the Ferrari. Great start by Eddie Irvine - Villeneuve! Look at Villeneuve! And into the wall, who was that? It’s Coulthard! David Coulthard into the wall! They’ll stop the race, they’ll stop the race. Oh! This is terrible! Look - Oh this is quite appalling, this is the worst start for a Grand Prix that I have ever seen in the whole of my life!”

Sometimes it is best to take stock of a situation and call it a day, even before it starts, and to constantly and accurately access the situation.

One of the worst things a pilot ever wants to hear is that “they are grounded;” but sometimes you might want to do a little self-grounding; both guratively and literally. Any number of things, events, and circumstances can and should keep us off the bikes.

Like the 1998 Belgium Grand Prix Formula 1 race, it is sometimes a far better idea to call it a day before it starts than to push the Flying Fickle Finger of Fate too hard. She just might end up planted where you don’t want her to be!

One look at the lm of this race and you can see a race this day was not brave, intrepid, or needed – it was just stupid. All the smashed F1 cars and wheels rolling around freely in the fog clearly show that.

But let’s throw out some scenarios when discretion truly is the better part of valor.

Okay, de nition time: This is really how the saying went – spoken by

Shakespeare’s Sir John Falstaff in Henry IV Act v scene 4… ‘The better part of valor is discretion, in which better part I have saved my life.’ The line means that you would be foolish to act like a hero if it is going to disadvantage you and it’s better to stop yourself if an action you would like to take is going to hurt you. Kabeesh!

Hold my beer and watch this is never really funny in real life. Weather.

Mother Earth is as ckle as that nger. There have been times when we have spotted dark skies and lighting approaching. We have seen tornadoes ll the skies. We have woken to a blanket of silent snow that fell overnight.

All these are the universe’s way of saying take a day off, relax and ride another day.

This last summer Shira and I ran into a squall line in Ohio heading west toward Indiana. It didn’t look good and it was a bit of praying and then divine intervention that led us to the only covered bridge for 50 miles to wait out the ironically ungodly tempest.

Late night, fatigue, BAC…

Most of us tend to think we are in better shape than we really are. Late nights, pitch blackness & windy backroads, sleepiness, and fatigue should ground the best riders.

One night a friend pocketed my bike’s keys so I would not go anywhere. I wasn’t going to go anywhere anyway - but I still appreciated that he was looking out for me when I possibly might not have looked out for myself. In these situations… we all should stay grounded.

Discretion IS the better part of valor – The Bard was right! ,