2010 Vol. 16 No. 5
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MAY
Motorcycle TourMagazine
Rustic Calif ornia
In Search o f
Wildflower s
Inside… Spirit Ride • Kawasaki Z1000 • Ducati Hypermotard • And more…
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M O N T H LY C O L U M N S
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F E AT U R E S
FREE WHEELIN’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
RUSTIC CALIFORNIA BIRTHDAY RIDE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
WHATCHATHINKIN’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
SPORT BIKE TRACK TIME . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 ON THE MARK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
SPIRIT RIDE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 ROCK RIVER ARTISTS STUDIO TOUR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 TO THE TOP OF THE MOUNTAIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 BACKLASH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
MOTORCYCLE REVIEWS 2010 KAWASAKI Z1000 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 2010 DUCATI HYPERMOTARD. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
MYSTERIOUS AMERICA. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 BIG CITY GETAWAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 WE’RE OUTTA HERE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 INDUSTRY INFOBITES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
PRODUCT REVIEWS PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 ARAI VECTOR HELMET . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 TWO WHEELS TO ADVENTURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
HYPERPRO ESA CONVERSION UPGRADE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
MICATECH PILOT CASES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
TWISTED THROTTLE V-STROM PARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil ~ Publishers Contributors: Neale Bayly, Dan Bisbee, Mark Byers, Cameron Douglas, Richard Ford, Bill Heald, Brian J. Nelson, Alfonse Palaima, Steve Smith, Peter B. Tamblyn, Michael Vaughan, Tim Wineland, Dr. Seymour O’Life Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure
BACKROADS • POB 317, Branchville NJ 07826 Phone 973.948.4176 • Fax 973.948.0823 • email editor@backroadsusa.com • web www.backroadsusa.com For Advertising Sales Information: 973-948-4176
BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2010. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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FREE WHEELIN’ Brian Rathjen Although Backroads has a fairly long reach, we do call New Jersey home. That being the case we try to stay on top of what goes on in this state and how these things affect we riders. One excellent way to stay on top of such things is easy - just join the American Motorcyclists Association. I was reading an article in their fine monthly publication by Bill Kresnak on how individual states were raiding motorcyclists’ funds that were collected, mostly by rising registration fees, to further Rider Education and various Safety programs around the country. Over the last few years the people in charge in Trenton (umm, that would be thankfully ousted Jon Corzine) have tripled our motorcycle registrations and then, with all this extra cash in the coffers, they simply went into the fund and took it all. It’s really outrageous when you think about it. But, it’s not just the Garden State. Down in Louisiana they took $6,544 dollars from their Motorcycle Safety Courses. Six thousand, five hundred and forty four dollar. Wow. Let’s get this into perspective now... New Jersey took $1,200,000.00. Yes, over one million dollars stolen from the motorcyclists of New Jersey. Governor Jindal and Louisiana should be proud of what they didn’t do. Corzine, faced with an ever-growing budget deficit, looked to an easy target and without discussion raided the coffers of the states’ motorcycle safety funds. I’m sorry, that was our money! Now Corzine is gone and Christie is in. But, in truth, I don’t see the new Governor giving anything back to the riders of New Jersey. Maybe I am wrong on this. I can hope, but time will tell. I am not too optimistic. Perusing Kresnak’s article in American Motorcyclists December issue it is obvious this is going on all around the nation and it’s not just street riders that have to look out for these thieves; off-road riders must be wary as well. According to Jack Terrell our elected officials have long raided OHV funds. Iowa took 3/4 of a million dollars from OHV funds back in 2002. Florida grabbed over $2,000,000 in 2008 and then did it again in 2009! THE RAID
®
This is like finding somebody going into your own wallet and taking your money - because that is exactly what is happening here. Then there is new New Jersey legislation introduced by Senator Nicholas Sacco. Basically pushing Rider Ed for all new riders and limiting the size of the machines new riders can ride by allowing new rides to only ride bikes of a certain displacement. So many new riders take their tests on scooters and then go out and buy larger, more powerful machines. Basically this new law will make those who “cheat” on their road test by using a scooter to be limited to riding the smallest of machines. There is also a provision in this law to do away with motorcycle inspections. Although some feel they are already a waste and that the inspection in New Jersey is cursory at best it still keeps truly insufficient and dangerous machines off the road. I do believe that most riders keep a far better look on their own personal machines and safety than any state could or would. Yes, we pay for these inspections with our ridiculous motorcycle registrations, but I would rather see this money go towards more MSF courses and the occasional motorcycle safety commercial on local television and radio. Maybe with Republicans in charge down in Trenton we’ll see something along this line. One can hope. But, with the easy money taken from we riders in New Jersey, I fear the state will just keep picking our pockets. So what can we do to stop this government raiding of our funding? Well we can voice our concerns to our local representatives; but like Alice’s Restaurant we need everyone to do it to make it a movement. Still, we have to start somewhere. First off I recommend you join the American Motorcyclists Association. In the past few years, since Rob Dingman has taken over, the AMA has gone through a renaissance and is now an organization of which to proudly be a member. Call 800-AMA-JOIN! Keep in touch with your local representatives and if you get a chance to meet them face to face tell them that you not only vote - you ride - and tell them what you would like to see happen; when it concerns state funds and riders education. The bottom line is that we need to make ourselves heard in a mature, civilized but firm way. This is the first step to stopping The Raid!
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
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MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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W H ATC H AT H I N K I N ’ SHIRA KAMIL
MILESTONES. THE LOVE OF FRIENDS AND FAMILY. AND RIDING UNTIL THE TWILIGHT OF OUR YEARS AND BEYOND.
As you’ll read later in these pages, this year was, as some folks say, a mile marker in my life. Half a century. Middle age, perhaps. Hitting 50 seems to be quite a to-do for many folks. I really don’t think that I’ve thought about any particular number in my 50 years any differently than this one. Perhaps 18 and 21 were more significant. When one is younger, we put more emphasis on circumstances such as becoming an ‘adult’ and the responsibilities that accompany that term. As Mr. Buffett says, I’m growing older but not up. Having started my love affair with riding later in years - 30 to be specific - I can’t recap those days of dirt riding as a child or doing ridiculous stunts as a teen. I don’t really know what my family thought about the whole thing, but I’m sure that they never thought this was what I’d be doing with my life. To this day, when we’re heading out on a trip, my parents will ask if we’re taking the bikes. Insert head shake here. I love them to death. I’ve certainly had my share of adventures in the past 20 years. I’ve been fortunate enough to travel to 30 different countries with my best friend. I’ve even crashed in some of those (my version of ridiculous teen stunts). I can honestly say that in those years there’s only been two motorcycles that I’ve ridden which I absolutely hated and, so as not to hurt anyone’s feelings, I’ll leave them anonymous. One actually made me cry - I know, there’s no crying in motorcycling. But the most important contribution to my life from my association with motorcycles is, without a doubt, the many friends that I’ve made along the way. Starting with the inception of Sport Touring Motorcycle Club back in the ‘90s, there have been people who have come into my life to enhance this wonderful lifestyle that involves my two-wheeled affinity. As with most things in life, they change, and over the years people have come and gone. But somehow, the people that really make an impression, who you know should stick around in your life, do just that. Funny thing, the people who I thought would be involved in my life at this point, back in ‘the day’ have somehow become distant. Most of my aquaintances and pretty much all of my friends are through my association with motorcycle. Not surprising, huh? I remember so many years back, heading to Lake George with motorcycle license in hand, ready to ride as many bikes as I could during the week. Getting up early to wait on line for the quick half hour look into what might be my future ride. Hopping on Honda’s CBR600, I instantly fell in love and I remember saying to Brian, ‘That’s going to be my next bike.’ Well, at that time we didn’t have the means, so I was content to keep it in the back of my mind. Not too long after that, coming home from work, Brian guided me into our back yard where, wrapped in red ribbon waiting for me was a slightly used CBR600. Good things do come to people who wait. Americade holds many fond memories for me. One of the best, and relating back to those who are near and dear to me, was meeting Norm Smith. He was in charge of the demo fleet for BMW. Having the most even temperament and the patience of a saint, he stood tall overseeing the comings and goings. For the years that our friendship flourished, I would always look forward to seeing him during the summer. Our friendship grew, and we spent more time together, riding with him and his beautiful wife Denise and sharing just a few bottles of wine at the end of our days. Norm has always been my benchmark for riding. He and some other folks rode from Shanghai to Munich over several months. Just a couple of years prior to that, he took a solo ride from his home in Washington, DC to Alaska. No big deal, right? Well, that was all when he was well into his 70s. He’s now a few years older (growing older but not up, along with me) and continues to ride. I hope to follow his footsteps and continue my riding, sharing my journeys with friends old and new. Riding into the twilight of my life and beyond with Brian can only bring good things, and I can’t wait to turn that corner and find out what they might be. See ya on the road.
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BACKROADS • MAY 2010
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MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD You’ve no doubt heard ad nauseam about the Sudden Unintended Acceleration situation, where allegedly a lot of Toyotas (especially since 2001 or so) accelerate all on their own, and drivers can’t stop the car before it crashes into something. And, unlike Toyota’s contention that there isn’t any “runaway” situation but rather the accelerator is just sticking a bit after being advanced to a certain point or getting snagged on a loose floor mat, a lot of pundits, lawyers, etc. are saying the electronics that control the throttle on the latest cars is actually going rogue; a malfunction that, miraculously, has never been observed or reproduced under test conditions and the car’s own software logs can’t detect. Now, I’m not wading into this controversy even though I have very strong feelings about what’s really going on, but I will tell you a couple of motorcycle tales where I did experience some genuine demons in the e-works. Both problems were brought on by the same thing, too, as you shall see. One was potentially dangerous (although I was ultimately never really in any danger) and the other was basically embarrassing. Well, the more I think about it there could have been a bit of peril, but I’ll get to that in a minute. I’ll go with the scarier of the two first. SUDDEN UNINTENDED BEELZEBUBS
OULD THERE HAVE BEEN AN AQUATIC INTERACTION IN THE ELEC-
C
TRONICS?
WAS
THERE A GUPPY IN THE WORKS, SO TO SPEAK?
Sometime in the late nineties, I was on a trip in Pennsylvania. I won’t tell you the make and model of the motorcycle to avoid any legal unpleasantness, but suffice it to say it was a huge, heavy, well-appointed touring bike. This particular motorcycle was a press bike that was actually a pre-production unit, which as it turned out was a good thing. Anyway, there I was motoring along on the alwaysirritating Pennsylvania Turnpike and enjoying some righteous tunes, and the cruise control decided it was time to boogie. The bike just started accelerating; even though I hadn’t done anything other than just sit there and gently guide the big yacht along. “Funny,” I said to myself. “This is a bit weird. What’s up, my moto-companion?” I moved the cruise on-off switch to off, and things returned to normal. Hmmmm. I waited until I got to a really flat, straight stretch of the Pike with really light traffic, and tried the cruise again. It worked flawlessly for about ten miles, and then it did it again. Yikes. No more cruise for me. There was something haywire, for sure. Everything else on the machine worked perfectly for the duration of the trip, but I avoided the cruise control like it was possessed by Beelzebub, which for all I knew it was. When I returned the bike to the manufacturer I’d had some time to think about things, I told them something I thought might be critical. The night before the malfunction occurred, there was one hell of a thunderstorm. There was flash flooding, rain and even more rain after that. As I parked the bike in the parking lot at the hotel, for that’s where you park things, it was one soaked puppy by morning. Could there have been an aquatic interaction in the electronics? Was there a guppy in the works, so to speak? The company guys ripped that cruise module off the bike immediately, and overnighted it to the mountain where the engineers have their cave. Later, I was told that water intrusion was the likely culprit, and they redesigned the cruise control module (either sealing it better or changing the wiring slightly) so this would never happen again. As the number of production units of this new bike that were on the road was virtually nil, as far as I know the problem never surfaced again (because if it happened in the wild I’m sure I would have heard about it, somehow). Anyway, even if it did happen all you had to do is turn the cruise off, but it could be scary. The other incident was in Florida, where it was another big tour bike (different make and style), and happened after another big thunderstorm soaked the machine. This time the radio, which I had on really loud on the external speakers, would not turn off when I motored into gated community territory. People rolled up their windows, gave me very dirty looks, and the damn station it was stuck on was heavy into gangsta hip-hop (which all the retirees in Buicks were clearly not down with). Oops. I ended up detouring to the highway, and eventually it dried out enough and I was able to silence the Kraken. Word to the wise: electronics and liquid are enemies. Although, wait a minute. The fuel pump on my new Triumph lives in a sea of gas. I’m so confused.
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
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MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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ON THE MARK MARK BYERS Recently, I saw an article extolling the virtues of yet another electric motorcycle. It seems people are enamored of bikes without internal combustion engines and they’ve even crept into the Isle of Man TT. Like electric cars, electric motorcycles are heralded as “green,” but I just can’t get all charged up about them. The prevailing line of thinking seems to be that battery-powered machines are the answer to our energy and pollution prayers; however, it’s not that easy and the baggage associated with using heavy, expensive, environmentally-hazardous batteries is pretty serious. Plus, the energy to charge those devices has to come from somewhere! A battery is just a can full of stored energy. The most popular ones in use today contain environmentally unfriendly and costly metallic elements like lithium, cobalt, manganese, and nickel bound together with organic acid electrolytes that make our old wet-cell units with lead plates immersed in a sulphuric acid bath seem cheap and environmentally cuddly by comparison. From an energy storage standpoint, current batteries are pretty amazing, but they’re still heavy, have a finite life span, and the heavy metal content makes disposal or recycling problematic. Batteries store a lot of energy in a very compact, chemically-reactive package (which is, coincidentally, what a good explosive does). When the energy is released slowly, everything’s fine, but if the batteries are shorted or improperly charged, that energy can be released very quickly, resulting in a fair-sized explosion and fire. Not that long ago, several laptop batteries were recalled because of some spectacular failures. Some of the metals, like lithium, burn tremendously hot and react with water in a way that adds to the fire rather than extinguishing it. All that energy doesn’t get there by magic: batteries have to be charged. That electricity comes from a power plant through a variety of generation methods involving steam, none of which are 100% efficient, meaning energy is lost to heat at every step along the way. First, electricity has to be generated at a power plant fired by coal, gas, oil, or nuclear fuel. None of the processes through which we generate electricity is 100% efficient, meaning energy is lost at each step. The electricity is managed and controlled through transformers (wherein a little more is lost) that get the voltage appropriate for transmission through power lines. Ah, high-tension power lines, those models of efficiency. They lose a fair amount of power per mile and some of them are quite long because no one wants a nasty power plant right next to his house or city (plus, high-tension lines are so attractive and environmentally friendly). Their voltage is quite high, so multiple transformers are required at the receiving end, at everything from substations to the poles outside your house, to step the voltage back down to household levels. Each of those transformers loses energy to heat. Finally, the electric energy comes into your house to the battery charger, which has a transformer and other circuitry that loses more energy to heat as it steps down the voltage and regulates the charging cycle. By the time the power gets in your battery, a fair amount has been lost in the generation, transmission, and transformation processes. On top of that, when you twist your right wrist, more energy is lost to heat through the voltage control and electric motor circuits on the bike itself. On a national level, the impact of electric vehicles to the power grids could be tremendous: imagine a whole city full of folks who get home from work on a hot day, turn up the air conditioning, chuck dinner in the microwave, and plug in the “EV Agusta.” We’ve already had rolling brownouts and blackouts because power generation and transmission hasn’t kept pace with demand. Even though electric vehicles don’t pollute directly (unless you count the byproducts of their battery manufacture and disposal/recycling), charging them requires someone to shovel coal (or gas, or oil, or uranium) on a fire somewhere. Personally, I’d rather generate my motive power by burning the dead dinosaurs right between my legs in proven technology that isn’t that “brown” with which to start (my least efficient machine gets 40 mpg or more, depending on how sporty I get). Unfettered by nothing but a small battery used for starting, my internal combustion bikes have a much higher power-to-weight ratio than an electric one. Someday, perhaps technology will advance to the point where I’ll change my thinking about electric motorcycles, but for now they’re not generating any buzz with me. ELECTRIC PERSPECTIVE
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MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
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THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD BRAINS AND EGGS
I am convinced there’s a small piece of my brain perched upon a greasy countertop in a little town whose name escapes me now. It withered and died from a fatal infusion of incomprehension before it oozed out of my left ear and plopped down on the smoky glass. I’m sure it’s still there - wedged between the jar of pickled eggs and a near empty rack of Moon Pies. I would like it back but I don’t dare return even if I could remember the way. That happens to me now from time to time. This linguistic lobotomy occurred while I was attempting to survive a rousing rain ride through a Venusian warm front, and pulled into a quickiemart only to note the absence of “pay at the pump” convenience. I was not keen on entering the establishment itself, as in addition to my regular rain gear I was also wrapped in the remnants of a cheap, plastic poncho in an attempt to defray further moisture from mildewing my unmentionables. The pounding rain had taken its toll, however, as the garment now hung in shreds, giving me the appearance of a ragged and much-favored chew toy. I then noticed the leering face at the window - bearded, squinting, mouthing undecipherable words to an unseen accomplice through thick cigarette smoke and a thicker accent. Entering the hovel I was instantly greeted with a plethora of pungent odors, the least of which was “wet dog”. Behind the counter sat the odiferous offender: a huge, mangy beast glaring at me with his one good eye. On the floor behind him was a dog. Based on the robust bulk and dated hairstyle of the seated proprietor, he had apparently not moved from his monocular view through the front window since the “Mullet” years. The scrawny dog, on the other hand, could have used a few pounds. Both could have used a few teeth. And another eye. I apologized for interrupting their conversation, and explained how I
Tim Wineland
needed the quaint, anachronistic gas pumps activated, as it appeared they were of the old-fashioned, mechanically operated category which required the involvement of someone with opposable thumbs. Cyclops sat mute for an eternal moment while a dull brain-freeze crept into my soggy noggin. He then waggled a chin jowl, which I took to be a nod, or possibly indigestion. I eagerly sloshed back outside. Upon my return, I noticed the lanky pooch busily lapping at the puddles left by my previous visit. Thinking this a bit odd, I turned to mention this fact to Cy, only to find him heavily engaged in a Moon Pie chased with sloppy swigs of Dr. Pepper, briefly interrupted by a Richter scale belch. I felt my brain starting to swell. “It’s the eggs”, came his garbled remark between gastronomical gaffes. “She likes these here pickled eggs, but they make her thirsty”. I nearly asked whether the gangly canine had access to water by some other means, like in an actual bowl, but stopped myself when I noted the open door to the Men’s room and the inevitable answer. I tactfully changed the subject and instead asked directions to my intended destination - a little gristmill in a town whose name I apparently mispronounced. Cy paused between bites and barked at me to stand up. I immediately straightened from my slouch against the counter. A little show of respect for local customs never hurt anyone, and I didn’t intend to be the first. “No”, he explained, “Not ‘stand up’ - Stannup. Next town up the road. Take a right, hang a left at Wright’s Welding. Watt’s Mill is dead ahead.” I raised my hand to my own dead-head just in time to catch a sprayed shard of Moon Pie. The dog began chewing on the dangling end of a poncho tendril. “Left at Wright’s?” I was getting confused. (Continued on Page 23)
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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BACKLASH
LETTERS
Winter of our Discontent
Just finished your April Free Wheelin’. Keep in mind, the dealers of new bikes and the aftermarket shops need to know this: We’ll all come out of this together with one further note, dealers must change the way they do business if they are to survive the next economic crisis. I’m on my third new HD within the last 4 years. The 1st HD dealership, once I took deliver, took me for granted. How I felt was all explained to them to no avail. The 2nd HD dealership, once I took delivering, would treat me, when I needed servicing, like any/everyone else. Weeks waiting for SERVICING! Explaining to me how busy they were. The 3rd HD dealership had the correct way to get a new customer and KEEP the new customer. Maybe, it was my error in judgment all along! I should have gone to the 3rd dealership in the 1st place; an established HD dealership for many generations. As I wrote earlier, we’ll all come out of this, but what about the next time? Keep up the good work and writing the good articles! Stephen Nicholson Brian, Great Free Wheelin’ article in the April issue. Never had the heart to turn this place into a mega-boutique. The old timers and real riders still stop by at the end of the work day on Saturday for a cold one and good bench racing. Vito J. Addabbo Dealer/Principal F.W. Speer Yamaha ‘The last of the Mom and Pop shops’
Backroads, Thanks so much for letting Richard & Kathy (RKA Luggage) add your article links to their latest newsletter. I truly enjoyed them and am very impressed with your in-depth perspective on a wide range of issues with our
TO THE
EDITOR
favorite sport. Think I’ll organize a ride over to my favorite BMW dealership in Santa Cruz this weekend! Best regards, Lynne Mowry
Dear Brian and Shira, Your mag is worth the higher annual cost! It has great opinions and insight and GREAT places to visit. I agree there is a lot of ‘crap’ out there in terms of MC mags. I recently dropped RoadRunner because 75% of it is other people’s riding - OLD! Keep up the good work! Chris Lawrence
Dear Brian and Shira, When the miserable weather finally broke this week, I joyfully jumped on the Beemer and headed off Long Island for the Hudson valley. Thanks to your provocative article on Walkway over the Hudson in the April issue of Backroads, I had a particular destination for my trip. Strolling the Walkway on a crisp, sunny morning was a delightful experience. From the eastern end, two rusted signal towers hide the woods lining the blacktop path to the bridge. I felt almost out of place without a dog on a leash or a baby stroller to push, but everyone on the walkway seemed to share the same sense of wonder about the height, the view, and the evolution of this bridge. If it weren’t for your article, particularly with its selected historic detail, I would have gone somewhere less interesting on the ride. Thank you, not just for this article, but for Backroads’ monthly enrichment of the motorcycle life. You guys do a wonderful job! Sincerely, Glenn Baldwin PS - for lunch afterwards on the eastern shore, I strongly recommend Pete’s Grille in Hyde Park a few miles up Route 9. Delicious and reasonable with a Southwestern ambience.
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web: www.circlecycle.net
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
Brian You are one fart smeller. I loved your Free Wheelin in the March ish. I’ve had this weird feeling that it was just me picking up those huggy/fuzzy/whiney vibes. I really noticed it in NYC at the show. Everyone sat around patting each other on the back because they we are all females and involved with riding. I kept thinking, “Yeah, so?” Sue Slate asked me to come to the Women’s Center (lousy name, it sounds like it would include a mammogram and pap test) for such-and-such seminar and a group picture. Since I really like Sue and think she is downright fierce (in a good way!) I went to see what all the hoopla was about. The only thing that really made sense was that Sue insisted that you have to do your homework in order to ask intelligent questions at a dealership. The rest of the spiels gave me the creeps. I kept looking around to see where the men were so I could go join them. If we wind up at a party of some kind where the women are in a room talking about girly stuff and the men are in the garage talking about good stuff like carburetors I will head to the garage in a NY minute. Thank you for putting it all down on paper for one and all to see. You do have your moments and this one was winner. From NYS - S L Nevin
Sindee, Thanks. Glad to see a woman agreeing with me here. We particularly like the “Fierce” comment - we agree - Sue is an awesome lady.
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sometime soon. I’m thinking of heading up to that Curve Cowboy rally in the fall. Do you guys do any organized rides up there, or do you just hang with the crowd? Sincerely, Tricia
Smile Shira, it’s okay
Shira, I’ve been reading your great magazine for over two years now and I’ve seen most of your photographs without nary a smile. FINALLY a smile shows up on Page 54 of the March 2010 edition. You should DEFINITELY smile more often. Larry Walley Albany, NY
Larry, Ha!... You are not the first to comment on this. Shira’s always smiling - until she sees the camera and then she gets a little self-conscious and goes into “don’t take my picture-mode” or is it her version of “Blue Steele?” I’ll work on getting her to smile more - maybe keep a kitten in my pocket and hold it in front of her each time I going to take her picture. - BR
More Hookers?
Shira and Brian, You folks are the best! We love the layout and writeup in the magazine about the Helmet Hooker. It looks great and the write up was wonderful as well as the placement! We cannot thank you guys enough. Hopefully now we will sell a boatload of these things; buy a villa in the Italian Alps, learn to yodel (with vowels added at the end of each yodel), buy a great villa with a garage large enough to hold more bikes than we need (how the heck many could that be???) and retire with a great view of twisty roads leading into the valley.... OK, so maybe now we can start to sell some of these things and pay off the tooling etc. But heck, one step at a time. Seriously though, thank you both for all of your help and advice. Things are underway! Best regards, Gene Sr and Gene Jr.
Hi Backrods, I just read your piece Oh, Deer... I am constantly on the lookout for those critters, since my CT backroad commute is full of them. I like to think that I have a sixth sense of spotting them (it’s also my job to be the lookout late at night while driving with my honey), but the other day I was surprised. Very surprised. It was one of the first riding days of the new season, so I’ve been getting my chops back and taking it slowly. The whole area is that lovely shade of drab, dead brown, including the sand-covered roads. I was coming home from work at dusk, which made it particularly difficult to see, when the movement caught my eye, almost too late. There was a herd — the largest group I’ve seen in these part — about 8 altogether — walking across the road I was travelling. Had I been going any faster, I certainly would’ve collided with one of them. The big surprise to me was how camouflaged they were. Even after I saw them, and stopped, I could barely make them out in that particular setting. I was a bit spooked the rest of the ride, and told myself that I wouldn’t be riding home at that time of day again until the buds pop to color the world a little. Just thought I’d share my story with you. Have a great spring. I’m sure I’ll be running into you again
Long Island KAWASAKI 67 North Broadway • Route 107 • Hicksville, NY
www.LIKawasaki.com • 516-935-6969
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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G R E AT A L L A M E R I C A N D I N E R R U N Steve Smith
1475 ROUTE 22, WINGDALE, NY 12594 845-832-6200 • WWW.BIGWSBBQ.COM
BIG W’S ROADSIDE BAR-B-Q
Good things come to those who wait... Well, maybe procrastinate is a more fitting term. I first heard about Big W’s Roadside Bar-B-Q several years ago through word of mouth. It happens to be located in my favorite local riding romping grounds, so I made a mental note to make a lunch time pit stop there. Finally the opportunity came up one week while carving some Dutchess County twisties with a few friends. After sampling the incredible smoked fare I was mad at myself for not visiting sooner. Big W’s proprietor and namesake Warren Norstein has been in the ribs business since 2003. Back then, the business was truly a road side stand, running out of a commissary truck with a mural of a very happy pig painted on the side, parked out in front of an auto body shop on Route 22 in Pawling, NY. Fast forward to 2007 when Warren moved out of the truck and into a storefront a bit north on Route 22 in Wingdale, New York. As we parked the bikes, our helmets quickly filled with the tantalizing hickory smoke aroma from the smoker shed next to the restaurant. We entered the very casual seating area to find several tables and booths. Nothing fancy here and everything is available “to go” in case you want to feed the family or in our case, bring home the leftovers. This being our first time at Big W’s we took our time to study the food and portion size offerings on the large chalkboard menu, which is next to the counter where food
tasty places to take your bike
is ordered, prepared, and picked up. The ribs come in sizes Ribs 4 One, Large (feeds 2), and Extra Large (feeds 2+). Dave and I finally decided to share a “Large” order of dry rubbed spareribs and then we needed to pick out the sides. We settled on the Dirty Mashed Potatoes and were deliberating out loud on our second choice when Mr. Big W himself suggested the Smokey Beans, and our order was in. One of the others in our group was considering a sampler with ribs, brisket, and something on the menu called slow chicken. When asked, and with impeccable timing, Warren told us they are easier to catch. I suspect this is a common question and answer here at Big W. While chatting with Warren it was unusual to find this purveyor of pig with the great sense of humor is actually a nice Jewish boy from Brooklyn who worked a decade in what he called the “french brigade” some of New York City’s finer French restaurants. Part of the Big W experience is watching Warren carve up the meats at the counter and pile them high on a service tray lined with brown paper. The sides are served up in small bowls and placed on the tray along with small container of sauces. The unusual homemade BBQ sauces are served on the side, and not on the meat. Be sure to try both the regular and the hot version of the sauce. The large order included a bountiful pile of ribs, and was more than the two of us could finish in one sitting. The Dirty Mashed was tasty, but I was more impressed with the Smokey Beans. They were very flavorful and loaded with bits of rib, brisket and pulled pork. The dry rubbed ribs were outstanding and probably some of the
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
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Rip & Ride® • BIG W’S ROADSIDE BAR-B-Q 1475 ROUTE 22 • WINGDALE, NY • 845-832-6200 • (APPROXIMATELY 88
MILES
WWW.BIGWSBBQ.COM
O/W)
FROM CLIFF’S CYCLE REVOLUTION 465 FEDERAL ROAD, BROOKFIELD, CT SOUTH ON FEDERAL RD RT 202 LEFT AT JUNCTION RD RT 133 FOLLOW RT 133 N RIGHT AT NEW MILFORD RD EAST RT 67 LEFT AT NORTH ST RT 199 LEFT AT GREEN HILL RD RT 47 RIGHT AT LITCHFIELD TURNPIKE RT 202 LEFT AT WARREN WOODVILLE RD RT 341 STRAIGHT ON RT 341 AT MONUMENT IN KENT, CT GO OVER NY BORDER ON BOG HOLLOW RD CR 3 RIGHT ON KENT RD CR 3 best I have ever had with a great smoky taste and fall off the bone tender meat. I sampled the slow chicken and found it to be very good with the skin crispy and tasty, while the meat was tender and moist. Mike got the Dirty Rice Pudding and said it was excellent, and probably something I will try next time... and there will be a next time.
Downloadable GPS Route available here: www.sendspace.com/file/vlb004 may vary slightly from printed route
LEFT AT SOUTH AMENIA RD CR 3 STRAIGHT AT OLD STATE ROUTE 22 CR 81 LEFT AT MAIN ST LEFT AT FURNACE BANK RD RIGHT AT SR 22/343 LEFT AT WEST MAIN ST US 44 RIGHT AT BANGALL AMENIA RD CR 86 LEFT AT HUNNS LAKE RD CR-65 LEFT AT SR 82 SOUTH LEFT AT E NOXON RD CR 21 RIGHT AT SR 22 BIG W ROADSIDE BAR-B-QUE ON RIGHT
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NEW LOCATION Long Island’s Premiere Motorcycle Outfitters The four of us continued to sit there in the booth “pigging” out while discussing the great ride we had getting there from Connecticut. Big W’s is conveniently located in southeast Dutchess County close to the Connecticut border, and is easily accessible with great rides from most places in the tri-state region. For a quick trip from NYC, jump on I-684 north to the end and continue on Route 22 north. If you are coming from Connecticut, the provided Rip & Ride will zigzag you there on some great roads and help stimulate your appetite.
Motorcycle Parts Accessories • Apparel Brand names you know and trust from a dealer that you can count on for EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SERVICE.
Ready Riders, LLC 15 East Deer Park Road, Dix Hills, NY Across from Dix Hills Diner
631-262-0600 • www.readyriders.com
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s M Y S T E R I O U S THE JERSEY LINE WARS
Last year we did a piece on how the state of New Jersey was getting a bit short changed when it came to land and how its neighbor to the south Delaware - actually owned a bit of the New Jersey peninsula. This issue has been going on for years, and still needs to be resolved, but this isn’t the only place or time that the Garden State has been on the short end of the stick when it came to border disputes. But, unlike the swamping spit of land that was barely worth fighting over, this time around it was of great importance for farmers, woodsmen and the security of the locals involved. Come with Seymour as we go back in time and tell the story of the New Jersey Line Wars.
Early in 1665 the Governor of the Royal Colony of New York, Colonel Richard Nicolls, received news that James, the Duke of York, had granted a charter for New Jersey to two court friends, Sir George Carteret and John Lord Berkeley. Governor Nicolls immediately realized that the charter meant the loss of valuable land from the New York colony and he was fit to be tied. At that time the province of New York’s borders were questionable at best. The trouble began with what was called the Visher Map which put the boundary of Western New Jersey at 41°, more or less where Port Jervis is today; but the charter read on to say “Northward as far as the Northernmost branch of the said Bay or River of Delaware.” Since the river heads far north of Port Jervis many Western Jersey folk felt they owned well up near Hancock. Jersey itself was two separate Provinces in these days, east and west, so New Jersey has had its problems for centuries. Most of this started when the Quakers bought a huge portion of New
AMERICA
Jersey and a real line had to be made between them and Carteret’s eastern half. Just about this time things began to heat up with local native tribes and “Indian Raids” were common, especially in the Port Jervis region along the river. At this time it was the Minisink region that was in dispute and there was more and more friction between settlers claiming huge portions of land to theirs. In 1705, Peter Fauconnier, a Collector and Receiver General in New Jersey, reported to Lord Cornbury that those living along the border were, “neither here nor there” [in relation to their residency]. Fauconnier wrote Lord Cornbury again on April 2, 1709, and went into more details about the problems of the border region. He reported that citizens were being taxed twice, and being required to serve in each colony’s militia. He also reported that squatters and other illegal users of land were finding the confusion along the border beneficial to them, but that presence was not beneficial to either colony. It was a mess. At one point some in New York were willing to concede land all the way to Tappan, simply to put an end to all the angst, which at this time had turned violent in places. But, then the fact came out that iron ore and other resources were present and New York reneged at the last minute, which caused an uproar in New Jersey. Tension along the border had now reached the boiling point, and open battles began to erupt along the border. By 1720, Thomas and Jacobus Swarwout of New York and John and Nicholas Westphalia of New Jersey were alternately burning each other’s crops, claiming the others did not have proper title to their lands. This minor battle and many far worse would erupt over the next 49 years, until a final line was drawn by royal commission in 1769. During these years New York would continue to maneuver endlessly to stall the final decision. Every legal impediment was brought to bear, and the entire dispute was eventually thrown into the hands of the Board of Trade in London where it would sit for years. New Jersey would never quite gain the necessary strength to defeat New York and establish the border they believed was rightfully theirs. The conflict was eventually settled. The King of Great Britain through the royal commission of October 7, 1769 appointed commissioners to establish what would become the permanent and final border that runs southeast from the confluence of the Delaware and Neversink Rivers near Port Jervis to the Hudson River. The New York and New Jersey legislatures ratified the compromise in 1772, and the King approved it on September 1, 1773. Still, there was the Sabbath Day raid from New Jersey, a few years earlier in 1765.... Being a Sabbath there were no weapons involved, but a number of New York officials were captured and they found themselves in the Sussex New Jersey jail for a few days. C’mon - you gonna mess with New Jersey?
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
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B I G C I T Y G E TA W AY Warwick Valley Winery 114 Little York Road , Warwick, New York 10990 845 -258-4858 • www.wvwinery.com We’re always looking for new and fun things to do, especially during the riding season. This past Memorial Day weekend the folks at the Warwick Winery, outside the village of Warwick, NY held a Dylan Festival with three days worth of local musicians playing the famed American song writer’s best. An easy bit of Sunday relaxing- Riding, music, food and wine (for later)
With a beautiful day in front of us and nothing really planned to do riding-wise we donned protective gear and followed an enjoyable, if slightly detoured route, to the small winery. This place will be found in the middle of the famed Black Dirt region. Hundreds of years ago this was all swamp land, but after it was drained and cultivated it has become one of the most fertile parts of the United States and simply riding along Rte. 1, across the flat and open land, you can see why as onions rule this part of New York. But, here atop the hill where the Warwick Winery sits its all about fruits and grapes. The winery has a selection of reds and whites, created mostly with grapes trucked in from various parts of the northeast; but what this place is really
daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind
famous for is its Doc’s Draft Hard Ciders, available in Apple, Raspberry and Pear. Something else that the Warwick Winery has that was especially appealing to us that day was the Pané Café. Here the folks bake fresh bread from scratch every weekend morning. Delicious breads, pizzas, sandwiches and salads from Pané Café’s Bistro menu are served all weekend long from 125. The pizza... the selctions included salmon & brie, margherita, spinach & goat cheese all looked very, very good. The Pané Burger, a 1/2 Pound sirloin wrapped with bacon & bleu cheese served with homemade onion rings or french fries especially appealed to the carnivore in us and the other sandwiches looked good too. They have some excellent choices here each weekend as every weekend from 2 to 5 they have free performances outside on the patio, weather permitting, or inside on Doc’s Cider House stage. Once or twice a month, Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery holds special evening concerts and events, where you can enjoy Pané Café’s dinner menu while listening to great performers. Five times a year, Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery hosts weekend-long music festivals on their Orchard Stage: The Apple Blossom Festival, The Bob Dylan Festival, The Blues & Wine / Black Sunday (a Johnny Cash tribute), and The Harvest Moon Music Festival. We thoroughly enjoyed Sunday’s Dylan Fest, all the bands were phenomenal and it was interesting to realize just how prolific the man was and still is. If you have satellite radio, check out his Theme Time Radio hour on the Deep Tracks station. His insight into music and musical history is phenomenol. We know we will keep an eye on what the Warwick Winery will be holding in the future music-wise or just take a weekend afternoon off and ride to the winery, grab some lunch and enjoy the free weekend concerts. I know we stashed a few bottles for after the ride home and the hard cider and their Harvest Moon White were really delicious that evening. It was a great way to end a great day. It’s the magical combination of music, food and wine that makes any visit to Warwick Valley Winery & Distillery so enjoyable.
Rip & Ride® • WARWICK VALLEY WINERY 114 LITTLE YORK ROAD , WARWICK, NEW YORK 10990 • 845 -258-4858 •
PRINT ROUTE GEORGE WASHINGTON BRIDGE TO RTE. 4 WEST RTE. 208 NORTH HEAD OVER SKYLINE DRIVE RIGHT AT CR. 511 AND RIDE AROUND RESERVOIR BEAR RIGHT ONTO EAST SHORE DRIVE BEAR LEFT ONTO RTE. 17A LEFT AT T RTE. 94 SOUTH RIGHT AT CR. 1A INTO CR. 1 LOOK FOR WARWICK VALLEY WINERY SIGN RIGHT AT LITTLE YORK ROAD TO WINERY GPS ROUTE - 50 MILES O/W DOWNLOAD: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/FILE/MN836C START: STATE LINE LOOKOUT, PAL. INTERSTATE PKWY NORTH TO EXIT 15/GATE HILL ROAD WEST ON GATE HILL ROAD
WWW.WVWINERY.COM
LEFT ONTO KANAWAUKE ROAD 2ND RIGHT AT ROUNDABOUT - KANAWAUKE RD TAKE 17A WEST RIGHT ONTO PUMPKIN HILL ROAD RIGHT AT UPPER WISNER ROAD LEFT ONTO KINGS HWY RIGHT ONTO MAPLE AVE LEFT ONTO GRAND ST LEFT ONTO PINE ISLAND TPKE LEFT ONTO UNION CORNERS RD RIGHT ONTO EDENVILLE RD RIGHT ONTO BIG ISLAND RD LEFT ONTO HEDGES RD LEFT ONTO MOUNTAINSIDE RD RIGHT ONTO CHARDAVOYNE RD LEFT ONTO LITTLE YORK RD ARRIVE AT WARWICK VALLEY WINERY
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents
W E ’ R E O U T TA H E R E
a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads
CHINCOTEAGUE & ASSATEAGUE ISLANDS A little island fun in the sun; that’s what we’re talking about here! Each year we at Backroads make the trek south and to this little spit of land that runs just west of the famed pony island of Assateague. For us it is always early October and just in time for Chincoteague’s annual Oyster Festival, but that shouldn’t stop you from enjoying the island any time of the year, although summer is funner. Part of the barrier islands that stretch south from New England to the Gulf Coast, Chincoteague has long been a favorite hideaway for many people and families. We’ve been down here by motorcycle quite a few times and we have also trucked down in the Backroads Suburbinator, especially when we wanted to do a bit of bicycling around the fantastic island of Assateague and the National Wildlife Refuge you’ll find there, just a short causeway pedal away. OFF THE COAST OF VIRGINIA
Assateague is home to the famed pony crossing and auction. Hundreds of years ago a Spanish ship wrecked off the coast of Assateague and to save the horses they simply let them go. All these years later the horses have gotten smaller as nature and the island would have it and they can easily be found on the island and right near the causeway at the Refuge Inn; where they have a dozen or so penned up. The island’s Oyster Festival brings a horde of hungry folks all looking to fill up on the squirmy shellfish. One of the cooler traditions we have adopted, the scene at the campgrounds is always full of fun, frivolity and seriously good music as the band Island Boy really knows how to rock and get the crowd going. Some tables even do themes. This past festival we did a Monkey With A Gun theme, ‘cause it was easy and we have a lot of monkeys hanging around, armed, at MWAG here at Backroads Central. We did not win, but we had fun. Next year we’ll do better and if you like oysters, crabs and a great afternoon we’d like to invite you to join us, the more the merrier and our theme is a sure winner, but we’ll be keeping that a secret and will only tell those of you who are definitely heading to the island next Columbus Day weekend, when the Chincoteague Oyster Festival is traditionally held.
Don’t like oysters. No worries, they have plenty of “regular” food as well, and it’s included in the price of admission. If nature is your thing you will adore the island of Assateague. Cars are only allowed so far onto the island, and bicycle is the preferred mode of transportation, although there is a short drive around the main part of the island open to cars and motorcycles. We have done this ride a few times and the raw and untouched flavor of this island will show you just how beautiful and pristine the coast of the United States was before the Jersey shore and over development spoiled so many miles of this land. If a ride around Assateague doesn’t make you smile then you should check your pulse! Even if you ride down to these islands on your motorcycle, bicycle rentals are available for something like $10 for 24 hours.
An even better way to get up close to discover the hidden Assateague is the Wild Pony Watching wildlife cruises that depart daily from Chincoteague Island. On the small boat you will explore many secluded areas of Assateague Island’s wildlife refuge where wild ponies live. It’s a great way to spend an afternoon. On the island you will also find the Assateague Lighthouse which is an active navigational aid and is in the National Register of Historic places. In 1933 the lighthouse was converted to electricity, with its first light being a candle lantern. The Assateague Lighthouse has warned passing ships and local waterman of the shallow waters off Assateague for many years.
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
For you lighthouse buffs this is a must see and you should also stop by the Oyster & Maritime Museum, right at the bridge leading between the islands. Here you will find the original Fresel Lens, which is one of the largest in the country. At the museum you will learn all about the cherished oyster and the great fishing tradition that has made these islands famous around the world. The Sunday after the Oyster festival the museum holds an open house and all are invited for a snacks, soft drinks and to see what this wonderful museum has to show you and it’s all free this day. The island of Chincoteague has plenty of great restaurants, but we really enjoyed Woody’s Beach Barbecue, a Great All American Diner Run if there ever was one. Eclectic, quick and delicious we highly recommend this place for lunch or dinner. So make a note to yourself and your friends. Next year, when the season looks like it is winding down, make your way down to the islands and join us for the
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Oyster Festival next Columbus Day Weekend you will not be disappointed. Getting to these islands can be done a number of ways. The Cape May to Lewes, Delaware ferry is an excellent choice or you can slab it down on I95 and ride down the DelMarva. We have a really excellent ride for those of you with Garmin GPS that can be downloaded here: www.sendspace.com/file/bjb3aq We hope to see you this year down island way!
Sources: www.chincoteagueoysterfestival.com www.assateagueisland.com www.refugeinn.com www.woodysbeachbbq.com www.chincoteagueoysterfestival.com
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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INDUSTRY INFOBITES SANITATION TRUCK DRIVER CHARGED IN PHOENIX MOTORCYCLE TRAGEDY
The sanitation truck driver who ran into the back of a group of motorcyclists stopped at a stoplight in Phoenix on March 25 — killing four of them and injuring five others — has been arrested on suspicion of being under the influence of methamphetamine at the time of the crash, the American Motorcyclist Association reports. Police arrested truck driver Michael Jakscht, 46, on April 6 and booked him on four counts of manslaughter, five counts of aggravated assault and seven counts of endangerment. Initial toxicology tests on blood drawn from Jakscht on the day of the crash show he had the illegal drug methamphetamine in his system, according to police. He could face an additional charge of impaired driving, police said. Motorcyclists who died as a result of the crash were Daniel Butler, 35; Clyde Nachand, 67; Stephen Punch, 52; and Dale Downs-Totonchi, 47. Another motorcyclist, Phoenix Fire Capt. Ernie Lizarraga, 52, remains hospitalized suffering from injuries sustained in the crash.
NEWS
FROM THE INSIDE
Grass Roots BMW in Missouri. This ride will also be a charity “Ride For The Cure” event and all donations will go to the Pediatric Cancer Center at St. Jude’s Hospital. It is also the intentions to help support the only metro Philadelphia BMW dealership get off to a good start. Bob Jones, the proprietor, agreed to open the dealership on Sunday May 2nd, just for this event and he also will be supplying food, drinks, door prizes and 15% discounts on all parts and accessories. This record attempt is a great way to start the season right and it will be a fun day for all involved. Remember, this record attempting event is for BMW motorbikes only and it will be held “Rain or Shine”. After a short ride, with the assistance of local law enforcement, return to the dealership to enjoy the festivities. Start/End: Montgomeryville Cycle Center, 2901 Bethlehem Pike ( Rt. 309), Hatfield, PA - Sunday, May 2nd. Sign In Time: 10:00- 11:30 am. Ride Depart: 11:30 am. For more information contact Todd Trumbore at 610287-5275.
ART OF THE BIKE LLC LAUNCHES CLASSIC BIKE AND BLUEGRASS FESTIVAL
Art of the Bike is pleased to announce the launch of the 1st Annual Classic Bikes and Bluegrass Festival on May 8th, 2010 from noon-5PM. This ride will be an official attempt to set a new Guinness World Record The festival will host several Bluegrass/Blues bands, vintage and classic for the category “Largest Parade of BMW Motorcycles” currently held by bikes, and industry vendors. The event will kick-off with a charity ride of classic and vintage bikes leaving from Van Zant airport at 10AM with donations beneth fiting the National Stroke Association being held by 9am - 4pm the Delaware Valley Norton riders. We will have a gathering of some of the regions best classic bikes and Close-Out Sale on some great music by artist such as George Laks, Bill Select In-Stock Merchandise Simms Jr., and Joe Wills. For more information please Refreshments Served visit our website at www.artofthebike.com. The Spring 2010 Art Show will launch at the Open Space Gallery, 36 Bridge St, Frenchtown, NJ on May 1, 2010. The show is a mix of paintings, photography and sculpture from artist such as James A. Willis from NYC, re-known photographer Luca Babini/ NYC, 1269 DOLSONTOWN RD • MIDDLETOWN NY 10940 sculptor Michael Ulman/Boston and Tom Fritz of SoCal. A non-traditional presentation that celebrates 845-343-2552 • WWW.CYCLEMOTIONINC.COM the Art of the Bike. For every rider - on or off road, whether they like doing it in the dirt, HELP THE AMA GROW carving the twisties, The American Motorcyclist Association is pleased or cruising the backroads, to announce a new initiative to recruit motorcyclists to we have their weapon of choice. join America’s premier motorcycling advocacy organ-
ATTEMPT
AT
THE
GUINNESS WORLD RECORD BMW RIDE
SPRING OPEN HOUSE
SATURDAY, MAY 8
ization: the AMA Member Getter program. The AMA Member Getter program provides incentives to existing AMA members to enlist new members for the Association. For the first new member signed up under the program, the recruiting member receives a free cap featuring the AMA logo. For the fourth new member signed up, the recruiting member’s AMA membership is extended for one year. Also, if the new member signs up for auto-renewal, which includes free AMA Roadside Assistance for no additional charge, the new member also will receive an AMA hat. “These incentives are a token of our appreciation to those AMA members who are willing to step up and help grow the ranks of the Association,” said AMA President and CEO Rob Dingman. “Our membership needs to grow substantially if we are going to defeat the multi-pronged attacks on our riding rights. Each of us has to recruit more members for the AMA army. The bigger we are, the louder our voice will be, and the harder it will be for non-motorcyclists to take our rights away.” Any existing AMA member can participate in the AMA Member Getter program. No registration is nec-
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
essary. The new member simply has to sign up using the form available on the AMA’s website. The form includes a section in the upper right-hand corner to record the recruiting member’s AMA number. Members who have questions about the AMA Member Getter program can contact Membership Services at (800) 262-5646, or membership@amacycle.org.
MIC YOUR RIDE! CAMPAIGN WITH SPRING SWEEPSTAKES TO BRING IN CUSTOMERS
Motorcycle industry members and powersports retailers across the nation aim to help customers ride out the recession with a first-ever sweepstakes and unusually sweet deals on powersports equipment and service. Beginning April 15, the Revive Your Ride! Spring Sweepstakes will post $25,000 in cash prizes to spend on new gear, parts, accessories and more. “Imagine going into a dealership and being handed a $10,000 prepaid MasterCard on the condition that you spend it on something motorcycle- or ATV-related,” said Cam Arnold, vice president of communications for the Motorcycle Industry Council. “That’s exactly what the grand prize winner of the Revive Your Ride! Spring Sweepstakes gets. That could mean accessorizing a vehicle you already own, pulling a machine out of storage and putting it back on the road or trail, getting some overdue service done, sizing up some fresh riding gear or even buying a new bike or ATV.” The sweepstakes runs April 15 through June 30. To enter, contestants must visit their local dealer or retailer to get a Revive Your Ride! Sweepstakes entry card. One lucky winner will receive a prepaid MasterCard worth $10,000. Fourteen other customers will win prepaid cards ranging from $250 to $2,500, for a total of $25,000 in Revive Your Ride! Sweepstakes prize money. The prepaid MasterCards can be used only in dealerships, retailers or service providers participating in the Revive Your Ride! Sweepstakes. More information including complete rules and conditions can be found at www.reviveyourride.org
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TWISTED THROTTLE NOW EXCLUSIVE DISTRIBUTOR OF MICATECH ALUMINUM PANNIERS
Twisted Throttle has joined forces with Micatech who created the new “V2” side-loading aluminum pannier system. Micatech cases are hand welded in Hillsborough, NH for the ultimate in heavy duty, weatherproof, lockable adventure luggage. Micatech’s V2 sidecases are the only sideloading aluminum panniers on the market, featuring a recessed well that prevents items from falling out when the sidecase is opened. Micatech’s unique design also allows you to strap a duffel bag on top of the pannier and still easily access the pannier’s interior. Accessory liner bags and pre-cut retroreflective kits also available. Micatech V2 panniers can be easily installed on most late model BMW, Honda, Kawasaki, KTM, Suzuki, Triumph, and Yamaha sport and adventure-touring bikes using SW-MOTECH QUICK-LOCK removable sidecase carriers. Visit TwistedThrottle.com for purchasing information!
BACKROADS gladly accepts Press Releases. Please email text and images to editor@backroadsusa.com or mail to BACKROADS, POB 317, Branchville, NJ 07826
(Continued from Page 13)
“Right.” Cy was now fishing in the oily jar for a pickled egg. “I thought you said left.” My head was pounding and the dog was now making harcking sounds like my Aunt Alma with emphysema. “Right. Left at Wright’s.” A slimy white oval disappeared with a disgusting slurp into his massive maw. The dog stopped breathing. I took a deep breath. “And what’s the name of the town?” “Watt’s the name of the Mill”. “I don’t know. That’s why I’m asking you.” Cyclops blinked. Fido puked. Pickled flatulence filled the room as a bit of brain oozed out my ear.
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MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
Page 24
Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival
plenty of cup holders on touring bikes. I’ve also seen plenty of smokers squinting around their cigarette as they rumble down the road. Tough nuggies for their passenger. Becoming less distracted begins with identifying and admitting what these distractions are. It’s worth listing some additional offenses in which motorcyclists frequently share guilt.
Peter B. Tamblyn
Fatal Distraction
An insurance company’s ad in a recent Newsweek states that the majority of today’s teens admit to texting while driving (no surprise), yet nine out of ten think this obsession is unsafe (big surprise). Without attempting to explain this inconsistency, the ad continues, equating texting while driving to driving while intoxicated.
I
F
YOU ’ RE
COLD,
HOT,
WET,
THIRSTY,
SQUIRMING ON A REALLY BAD SEAT WITH
BLUE JEAN SEAMS BINDING YOUR CROTCH, OR GOTTA PEE, YOU ARE DISTRACTED.
Those of us of a certain age are quick to cluck our tongues and mutter what we’d love to do to those little whippersnappers. None of us likes to confess
all the lame crap we pulled when Earth was still cooling, and — more to the point — to admit to any present-day transgressions when hanging on to our handlebars. Instead, it’s more satisfying to get amped up, so we recite a litany of other drivers’ offenses, from knitting to Kindling. Maybe most of us don’t shave, primp or use a hand-held phone when riding, but — while bikers grappling with a Whopper are rare — I find
Many have to do with our reaction to road users and the road itself. I’ll start with one which sets me off — having some clown all over my rear. Knowing I can’t pay adequate attention to
the other hazards of the road, I’ll do whatever it takes to be rid of a vehicle following too closely. I generally just pull over when a simple, yet polite, hand gesture fails. Irritation toward other road users, from mild annoyance to full blown road rage, compromises one’s attention and judgment. I don’t ride well when I am late. If I’m pushing the speed limit, I’m distracted by watching out for The Man, more easily
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BACKROADS • MAY 2010
Page 25
annoyed by slow-poke drivers and double-yellow lines, and less likely to make a complete pause at stop signs, increasing my chance of pulling out before I’ve made absolutely sure nothing’s coming over that blind hill. Paying too little attention to the environment, perhaps when consumed by your thoughts, or allowing breathtaking scenery to fully occupy your attention, can be equally disastrous. Stop and enjoy an especially fine view; the break will ® do your mind and body good. Riding when tired or drowsy, especially when your Circadian rhythms are at a low ebb, is another form of inattentiveness. This may take more than a simple break to combat — don’t delude yourself into thinking you can “power through” those last hundred miles. Sometimes a series of potholes or otherwise inferior pavement can shorten our focus, attracting our attention away from the road farther ahead. Similarly, following too closely and/or fixating on the tail light in front will have the same result. 9am to 4pm Riding while physically uncomfortable can be a huge distraction. If you’re cold, hot, wet, thirsty, squirming on a really bad seat with blue jean seams binding your crotch, or gotta pee, you are distracted. Harley’s Heroes brings local veterans free benefits counseling How about that lingering glance (OK, ogle!) at an here at O’Toole’s. Call 888-2426 ext. 102 for details. attractive person of the preferred gender? Distractions, all... Then there’s the on-bike stuff that competes for our attention. The list is long — music and communication systems (intercom and bike-to-bike) or GPS and (yup) integrated cellphones, the unfamiliar controls of a new bike, simple concern over some mechanical dysfunction, and that roadmap in the tankbag window. Just a quick glance down to find that secondary road...? A final one for myself is concentrating on radio instruction to students as we ride through congestion, or carve a twisty back road. I’ve so far suffered no worse transgression than a forgotten turn signal, but the potential is surely there. Here’s your test: If you are absolutely guilt-free of Engine Oil Change $5995 ever having committed any of the above examples of with a Free 30pt. inspection riding distracted, raise your right hind leg up in the air. Offer valid thru 5/30/10. Price does not include tax. I bet you got both feet on the ground. Price includes regular H-D 360 20/50 oil. Synthetic oil Obviously, it’s possible to commit any of the above change is $79.95. Cannot be combined withany other service package or discounts. Call today to schedule. examples of riding distracted and survive to read these Professional rider on permitted closed road. words as you have done and are now doing (and as I have done and am now writing!). However, if you ® want to continue to enjoy riding accident-free, you may come to believe the best defense against distractSame Great Place with a Whole New Attitude ed drivers is to not be distracted yourself. 4 Sullivan Street • Wurtsboro, NY 12790 • 845-888-2426 • www.otooleshd.com After all, who’s watching the Watchman?
O’Toole’s Harley-Davidson
Spring Open House
Saturday, May 22 and Sunday, May 23 Come either day and enjoy live band, free food, giveaways and 50/50 raffles
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O’Tooles Harley-Davidson
Hours: Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, + Friday 8am-6pm • Saturday 8am-3:30pm • Sunday 9am-3pm • Closed Monday
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
Page 26
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS SHOW YOUR GRAVITAS
These Deadhorse Alaska, End of the Dalton Highway stickers are for those motorcyclist adventurers who want bragging rights for having tagged the Earth’s edge, Deadhorse, Alaska. They come in two flavors: one specifically for motorcyclists saying “Earth’s Edge and By Motorcycle” in red, the other saying “Earth’s Edge and Prudhoe Bay, Alaska” in red. The rest of the sticker has a white background with black Deadhorse Alaska, end of the Dalton Highway and an upside down “dead horse.” Just $2.95 each from wholeearthmoto@bmail.com - a Dr. Greg Frazier venture!
SUN VISORS DOWN
FROM
HARLEY-DAVIDSON®
Instantly react to changing light conditions with a new Retractable Sun Shield-equipped helmet from the Harley-Davidson® MotorClothes® line. Available in polycarbonate Half, 3/4 and Full/Modular shells, the One Touch internal tinted shield is activated by a quick pull or push, so you remain focused on the road when light conditions change. The 3/4 Helmet (P/N 98210-10VM, $160) and Modular Helmet (P/N 98211-10VM, $250) utilize an AccuSight(tm) anti-fog outer shield with optically-superior 3D design, 95-percent UV protection and anti-scratch coating. And like the Half Helmet (P/N 98212-10VM, $125), each features a removable/washable liner, meets DOT requirements and is available in XS - 2XL sizes. All three Sun Shield-equipped helmets are available now at most Harley-Davidson® dealerships.
CAN YOU SEE ME NOW?
The New Men’s Luminator Leather Jacket from the Harley-Davidson® MotorClothes® line combines premium functional features with exclusive, 360-degree Enhanced Visibility for the highest visibility in low-light conditions. Exclusive to H-D, the 360degree system strategically places 3M™ Scotchlite™ Reflective Material throughout the jacket - on front, back and sides - so the rider is visible to other motorists from nearly every angle when illuminated by headlights. The jacket is constructed from midweight leather with six zippered vents, pre-curved sleeves, power-stretch side panels and a removable kidney belt. Seven zippered pockets deliver ample storage space, while removable, lightweight body armor adds protection at the elbows and shoulders. Available in S-5XL and Tall sizes. The Luminator sells for $495. For even greater visibility and additional protection, pair the jacket with the Luminator Leather Chap (P/N 98012-10VM, $325), featuring midweight leather construction, zippered vents, removable armor and extensive 3M Scotchlite Reflective Material. The new Luminator Leather Jacket and Chap are available now at most Harley-Davidson® dealerships.
Town and Country CYCLE CENTER
FW SPEER YAMAHA 7 Main Avenue • Passaic, NJ • www.speeryamaha.com • 973-778-6256
Vito Full Moon Cruise • Wednesday, May 26 • Call for Details This is a PRO YAMAHA Consumer Event
Gold Certified Professional rider depicted on a closed course. ATVs with engine sizes of 90cc or greater are recommended for use only by riders ages 16 years and older. Yamaha recommends that all ATV riders take an approved training course. For safety and training information, see your dealer or call the ATV Safety Institute at 1-800-887-2887. ATVs can be hazardous to operate. For your safety: Always avoid paved surfaces. Never ride on public roads. Always wear a helmet, eye protection and protective clothing; never carry passengers; never engage in stunt riding; riding and alcohol/drugs don’t mix; avoid excessive speed; and be particularly careful on difficult terrain. ©2009 Yamaha Motor Corp., U.S.A. Cypress, CA 90630.
115 Route 23N • Hamburg NJ 973-875-2111 www.townandcountrycyclecenter.com
Serving the motorcycling community for 25 years
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
Page 27
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS WYSIWYG
WITH
HI-TECH SUNGLASSES
We’re always looking for new products that cross over from one sport to another. Real Action Paintball sent us a press release on these sunglasses and we knew they’d work perfectly for video on the bike. You see, these sunglasses are not just a nice pair of shades. The RAP4 Hawkeye Video Recorder Sunglasses are stylish shades that come with a discreet digital video camera built right into the frame. Hit record and instantly capture color video at 30 frames per second, with sound, of whatever you’re looking at. POV recording. To shoot smooth-looking video, you need at least 24 frames per second...and the Hawkeye Sunglasses go a step better: they deliver 30 frames per second at 3.0 mega pixel resolution with full color and sound. The camera is discreet enough that it won’t make your subjects feel put-on-the-spot, and its light enough that after a few moments you don’t even notice it’s there. The whole system, glasses, battery, camera, and all, weighs only 39 grams, and there are no cords or wires to worry about. The battery recharges with an included AC adapter, and the video records to a Micro-SD card. The Rap4 Hawkeye Sunglasses come with a 4 GB card which is enough for a claimed 3 hours of shooting and once charge the Rap4 Hawkeye Sunglasses have enough charge for up to 3 hours of recording. The glasses themselves are good looking and have dark polarized lens and the camera is easily operated with a push of two buttons. Taping (or is that carding?) was a breeze and both clarity and quality of both video and audio were very good. Although the instructions just mention PC, the video downloaded instantaneousGroups We Loveles! ly to my Mac (Whatcha’ think?) and iPhoto as an AVI file. W elcome! c Excellent! Motorcy The only concern we found is that the arms of the glasses, which hold all the electrics, are a bit wide and we found them difficult, but not impossible, to use with our Nolan flip-up helmet. A true full face would be very difficult. But, with a 3/4 helmet they should work fine. The Rap4 Hawkeye Sunglasses Video Recorder lists for $179.95 from www.rap4.com. BACKROADS gladly accepts press releases. Please send text and images via email to editor@backroadsusa.com
MOTORCYCLEMADNESS 8 State Hwy 94 • Lafayette, NJ • 973-579-6088 • 877-252-9828
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MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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Having trouble deciding which Triumph to buy? The Triumph Factory Demo Truck is coming with the new 2009 models. Grab your gear*, ride the new models and discover which Triumph is right for you. For more information on our 2009 range of Motorcycles, Clothing and Accessories or to create your own dream Triumph visit www.triumphmotorcycles.com or contact your nearest authorized dealer.
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BACKROADS • MAY 2010
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words: Brian Rathjen • images Brian Rathjen & Shira Kamil
New Jersey to California Riding to the milestones of your life is much like reaching those faraway destinations we all dream about; it seems once you do it, it’s done and you simply must move onto the next big thing. This past March our favorite red head crossed the big 50, with much grace, elegance and class I must say. So travel plans were in the making; but to where? I did hear mention of Tahiti, that sounded exotic and big birthdayish; but that faded away when the Buffett concert was over. Then Belize popped up, but where was Jerry Jeff Walker when you needed him? Besides, there was no chance of riding. Then, during one of those nasty winter storms we had this past year, when the snow was drifting high against the wide glass windows of Backroads Central, Shira simply said, “Let’s go to California!” Eureka! No, actually Orange County. Phone calls were made and emails sent and on the very day of her birthday - the Ides of March - we flew west and by afternoon were chatting it up with the good folks at Kawasaki who had graciously thrown us the keys to a new Concours 14 ABS and ZX650R; two machines perfectly suited for this tour. That evening dinner was had with our friends Jon and Erica at Las Brisas, in Laguna Beach, taking in the sunset over the Pacific. Welcome to southern California. For the previous few weeks it seemed all of the United States had taken a beating weather-wise, but the weather-guy on a local LA channel said that was all over and Southern California had once again taken its crown as the best weather in North America...Amen, brother, amen! We let the Orange County traffic diminish a bit the next day and, after packing up the two Kawasakis, we took an easy ride south to San Diego to spend a few days with our son who has been out here for a few years now. I have carried a lot of strange things on a bike, but bringing his oversized acoustic bass guitar was different, even for me. I would either look like the coolest rock star riding down the coast or a distraught Flying Nun.
Rus tic
In SCalif earcorni h of a Bi Wilrthd d f lo a y R wer ide s
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We rode down the coast road and spun down to the pier in San Clemente for a delicious breakfast of crepes, then hightailed
it into the North Park section of San Diego where we met up with our son, Brian and his friend Mike. They have been friends for years, growing up together in New Jersey, and now are both part of a great San Diego rock band called “The Old In Out.” (www.myspace.com/theoldinoutbandits) Who said powerful punk is gone? Most of the chosen lodgings on our “Rustic Ride of California” tour would be just that, slightly rustic - meaning a bit older than before, yet still very comfortable. Just like us. The Paradise Point Resort was not rustic, but it was Shira’s birthday and if there was a time and place to splurge; this was it.
San Diego to Anza-Borrego Desert
We spent a few days with Brian and all his friends in the music and bar scene in North Park - Toronado and the Blue Foot were both excellent - and had a superb meal with our friend - the man, the legend - Mike Vaughan; but soon it was time to move on and, after a delightful breakfast in the city with our son, we fired up the two Kawasakis and headed east towards the mountains. Our route brought us up to a great piece of pavement called Wild Cat Canyon Road and then along the very twisty, rocky and rolling topography of San Diego County for a quick stop for apple pie and ice cream in Julian. One cannot ride this part of California and not stop for something appley in Julian - it’s just not done. While there we spied two Kawasaki KLRs loaded to bear; Spare tires, milk crates, “The Works.” Somebody was on a serious trip and these somebodys would be Amanda and Will; two Canadians that had taken a year off to ride around North America. Now in their sixth month, they had gotten
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
around the United States from Ottawa and, just a few days before, on Shira’s birthday in fact, they had taken their wedding vows in Joshua Tree Park. Excellent. You kids picked a great day. Hope to party with you on your 50th Anniversary! It is these stories you find while riding that make us realize we are all involved with a most wonderful endeavor. From the high elevations of Julian we made our way across the peaks and then down the winding road off the Peninsular Mountains to the AnzaBorrego Desert sprawled out like great monster below. It is California’s largest state park. Shira’s Ninja 650R was in its element here as the light, yet powerful, twin moved through these curves like a smooth dancer. The seat height and comfortable riding position make it a great all day ride and this is one of the reasons the 650R has become one of Shira’s favorite motorcycles. This land was once part of the Sea of Cortez, but all that sand and rock which formed the Grand Canyon had to end up somewhere; and it did - here - eventually blocking the land from the sea in prehistoric times. They still find the bones of Giant Camel, Mastodon, Walrus and Sloth to this day. The road down towards the valley was as twisty and windy as they come but the end result was certainly worth the stiff breeze. Once in the desert valley we took a room at the Palm Canyon Resort, in the tiny desert burg of Borrego Springs. Now here was a rustic place; but one that offered a lot with comfortable rooms, a pool, hot tub, steak house and
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
saloon - what else could we want for as this rustic ride got underway? We took our room and, with a bunch of daylight still left to us, we got to exploring the desert. It was easier to double-up on the C-14 and, with perfect light spilling across the desert floor, we went in search of critters and flora. The famed desert flowers of the Spring had just begun to peak and their colors lit up the naturally drab desert; but it were beasties that we
ended up finding. The Anza-Borrego Desert is full of creatures, big and small, but at Dennis Avery’s Galleta Estates we found the most incredible statues spread out across the desert - recreations in iron of the previously mentioned mastodons, huge horses, giant birds and titanic camels. We especially like the prehistoric camels. These were created by artist Ricardo Breceda and can be found all about this desert. It was really amazing and it just goes to show you’ll never know what you’ll find out here.
Anza-Borrego to Joshua Tree
As the sun rose over Anza powerful winds slammed into the peaks and then back down to the valley far below, waking us to the new day. A good part of the morning would be done in battle with these stiff siroccos. We first headed back west to the Park’s Museum and watched a short, but informative, video on the desert, its creatures and history and took in the displays. Well worth the time. But, we had come to this desert in particular to see the annual blossoms of the short-lived desert wild flowers and were not disappointed. Purple Thistle Sage, Yellow Desert Dandelion and Red Ocotillo, White Desert Lilly and many more could be found and, as many times as I have been in Anza-Borrego, I have never seen anything as dazzling. Our ride down towards the Salton Sea, through Borrego’s Badlands, was just that... bad! The winds didn’t stop and I was reminded of the dreaded Ruta 40 in Argentina with its roaring pampero. Although both Kawasakis took some heavy shots of wind the bikes ran steady down to the shallow coast.
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We rounded the Salton Sea - a sad place indeed - and moved through a short cut I know, Box Canyon Road, to the Cotton Wood entrance of Joshua Tree National Park. Joshua Tree has always been a favorite of ours and we have ridden through it many times. Its roads travel pleasantly amidst the famed trees, cholla cactus and mighty tan boulders as big as small skyscrapers. We spun up to the mountaintop to see the incredible view and then back down to the park to enjoy a few hours scrambling amongst the boulders and rocks; a truly breathtaking park. On our way out we were treat-
ed to two coyotes cutting across the road in front of us, only to stop on the far side and watch us roll by. We wondered who was more excited about whom? We have a few places we like to stay while at Joshua Tree, but our #1 We’re Outta Here for 2009, Spin & Margie’s, was booked so we went to our #2 Joshua hideaway the cozy and rustic (remember rustic?) Joshua Tree Inn, snatching the last room that evening. The place now calls itself an American Cosmic Hotel, as this part of the desert seems to be a
SATURDAY, MAY 1 • Chris ‘Teach’ McNeil 10am - 4pm Champion stunt performer Chris ‘Teach’ McNeil will perform his impressive array of gravity-defying stunts.
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
magnet to the metaphysical and the “Waiting on the Mother Ship” crowd. We had stayed here a number of times and besides being a super cool inn, it is also famous for having ‘70s rocker Gram Parson die in room #8 but that is a tale for the good Doctor O’Life if he cares to. These days the
place is still comfortable, but the morning breakfast is gone and there isn’t even chemical coffee to be found in the rooms, unless Parson’s ghost shows up with a pot. They did have a shower I rated a 10.5, worth the price of the room by itself. For dinner we twoupped on the Connie and rode over to Pioneertown and Pappy & Harriet’s. What was once a movie and television western town is now the place for good ol’ western-style grub when in the Joshua Tree region. The dining could not be beat and I felt like the Duke himself would come through the door at any second. The ride back that night, under stars that seem to go on forever, was magical. One of those nights when you feel like you could ride until dawn, except for the chill. In Mid-March this desert, which sits at 4,000+ feet, can get down right frigid at night and the wonderfully warm heated grips on the C-14 came through in a big way, as did the electrically controlled windscreen.
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BACKROADS • MAY 2010
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At Shoshone we sat for dessert at the CrowBar and then rode towards Death Valley Junction, where we had not only a room, but also two tickets for the Amargosa Opera House show that evening. For decades now Marta Becket has been doing a one-woman show on Sat-
Joshua Tree to Death Valley
We had taken a trip similar to this about 5 years back, and have ridden in this part of California many times, so we are fairly familiar with the roads. Still, the C-14 has a handy power outlet, so I plugged the Zumo 665 into it and had our routes right in front of me and fed through my headsets at all times. The Zumo also has an MP3 player; so riding one last time through Joshua Tree Park, in the early morning sun with Ben Onono performing Blink; well it just kept getting better.
urday night and Sunday afternoon, always to full crowds. Tonight’s performance would be “If These Walls Could Talk” conceived and presented by Sandy Scheller. These days Marta is in her 80s, but the famed ballerina now does a show, on occasion, from a seat; but is still the performer.
We headed towards the Marine Base at 29 Palms and then moved north on to Amboy and the Mojave beyond. The scenery to Amboy had a greenish hue; as grass was poking out of the desert floor now and again, and passing the dry lake chloride beds we were surprised to see them full with shallow blue water - remnants from the late winter rains.
At the famed Route 66 we stopped to photograph the Amboy Crater, the remnants of an ancient volcano, and then stopped for refreshments at Roy’s Motel which is only a café these days and some times not even that. But, it is still a California icon and respect should always be paid. Heading north we rode into the Mojave Desert along beds of blacken lava strewn around here for miles; the children of the many volcano cones you’ll find here.
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Taking a look around the Amargosa Hotel I do believe this is an aptly named show; with a history like this I am sure the walls could speak volumes! Don’t get me wrong; the Amargosa Hotel & Opera House are very, very cool - but, Shira wanted rustic and here we are. We got in around mid-afternoon, so we did a quick sojourn into Death Valley itself. Passing the stunning Furnace Creek Inn I tried to tell myself this place was rustic too. I didn’t get very far. By evening we were back at the Amargosa and ready for the dinner and the show. Sandy has been taken by the opera house and the wonderful murals of the eclectic audience that are brushed on this old place by Marta who had done all the stunning murals herself. Kings and Queens, soldiers and whores, members of the court. Even when empty the opera house has a full audience. The show was extremely well done as Sandy brought so many of the characters to life in song and dance. For some reason I got picked out for one of the dance numbers... my 15 seconds of fame. There is so much to say about this wonderful, fun, but quirky place that I will leave it to O’Life and his Mysterious America to clue you. Suffice to say you will have a memorable evening here.
Death Valley to Kernville
Death Valley is huge. In fact it is the largest National Park in the lower 48 states. Up and out early we took a spin to Dante’s View, one of the best rides in Death Valley, which at 5,475 feet offers a splendid view of the valley from high atop Bad Water, which at 288 feet below sea level is the lowest
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
point in the USA. Oddly enough across the valley from Dante’s you could easily see the Panamint Mountain Range, still heavily snow covered, and Telescope Peak. The mountain is the highest in California at 11,049 - so you have the Golden State’s highest and lowest making eyes at each other for all of time - or at least the next 20 million or so years. This is an ever-changing land. After taking in this magnificent view we rode down and towards Artist Palette, a one-way paved road that brings you into the cliffs and gorges of Death Valley where the abundance of different minerals make up the great plethora of colors and hues in the rocks. A quick ride to Bad Water was in order and walking out onto the lakebed the temperatures, which had started in the 30s that morning, rose into the 90s on the lake. All day long layers went on and came off, vents were opened then closed, then open again. Thankfully the Olympia
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
All Season Suits we were wearing were just that - all seasons. Lunch was found at the Furnace Creek Ranch and then we filled up, as we ran through an entire tank of fuel romping around Death Valley (I told you it was big), and heading out on Route 190. I’d forgotten how great this road is as it rises from below sea level to well over 5,000 feet high and then back down to more moderate heights. Above 3,000 zip-up the vents. Below, open them up. We would have loved to have turned north and ridden the Tioga Pass, but that was not going to happen in late March as it is snowed-in, sometimes until May; so we turned south and attacked the mighty Sierra Nevada Mountains around the more rider-friendly region of Kern County. Route 178 heading through the low pass was filled with more Joshua Trees than in Joshua, but riding high above the land turned greener and with great boulders and mountain heather turning the hills shades of purple more like the familiar California you see in commercials on New York Television with Arnold and Maria. The road was serious as well as it wound into the southern part of Sequoia National Park.
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Although the big trees were to the north, the purple and blue mountain heather on the hills, along with the rainbow of other flowers, made a great vista as we rolled along. We found a neat little Inn called the River View Lodge, in Kernville. Built in 1910 the folks were friendly, the room very comfortable and being 109 years old nicely fit into our “rustic” travels. The place is right on the Kern River and while we were checking in a fella pulled a Rainbow Trout out of the river that was so big I half expected Jonah to be popping out of its mouth. Kernville is a neat little town and with all the post-ride necessities taken care of we went out to explore the town. It was still Shira’s Birthday week.
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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Kernville to Atascadero
The rest of the ride east on Route 178 was pure heaven as the road followed the tight and rocky Kern River off the Sierra Nevada. The flowers were in ‘after burner-mode’ here and we stopped a number of times along the swift moving Kern to drink in the sites. Bakersfield was Bakersfield; but we did stop at a local motorcycle accessory shop to see what they were offering.
From there it was further west towards the Pacific Coast on Route 33. I was taken by the number of operating oil rigs along this way and remembered California’s big oil days of the past - that still seem to be alive in ways today. We had planned on riding a bit into the Carrizo National Monument, a dramatic plain that sits unmolested just west of sprawling Bakersfield. Our thought was to ride to the pavement ended and then double back. As we approached the dirt the signs read “Impassable in Wet Weather.” Well, since it was Mister Blue Skies above we took that as an invitation and kept on going, and was it worth every dusty mile. The mountains off to the right, running above the infamous San Andreas fault line, were dusted with yellow; not the minerals and rocks that we found in Death Valley, but more California wild flowers that were certainly giving my sweetie all they were worth. Stopping often, for more pictures, we tried to capture the moment. Soda Lake Road, which cuts through Carrizo ends at Route 58, which continues west. Right about this time both bikes’ fuel lights came on and, the more we rode, the more obvious it became that there would be no fuel to the next town - many miles away. Route 58 was another reason so many riders love to, or would love to, call the region home.
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BACKROADS • MAY 2010
It was as agreeable as a road can be. Trying to ignore the C-14 dire warnings of ‘imminent motorcycle pushing’ I did my best to be one with the road. Still I couldn’t help think of when my old Concours once ran dry and I had to push her for 2 miles to get fuel. Still the C-14 is a lighter machine, but I was younger then too. Shira has maybe pushed her bike out of the barn - once. We really had no choice but to carry on, pulling the clutch to coast down steeper hills and cursing when we had to use the throttle when
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the road turned snakeish. To our delight we eventually fumed our way into Santa Margarita. Thank the gods for a Saint with that name to come to our rescue. We were to overnight at the home of friends Sue and Clement. They have a lovely spread that any sane person would be envious of and a guesthouse that is so California homey as to be almost rustic in a thoroughly modern way. That afternoon, after settling in, we spied a herd of doe outside the window, just laying in the grass only to be disturbed by a rafter of female wild turkey that moved in on their turf. Shira tapped me on the shoulder and I saw the Three Amigos, tres Tom Turkeys, making their way passing right in front of our open door and the bikes on their way for a night of Wild Turkey fun. We thought they had the right idea.
Atascadero to Pacific Grove
After breakfast and quick goodbyes to Clem and Sue we got back under way. We had not seen the Pacific Ocean since leaving San Diego and the Coast Highway was just minutes west of their home, but we were not to see the Pacific till later that day as we again headed east for a planned meeting with our friends George and Cheryl in Pinnacles National Park. We had first met this couple on an Edelweiss Tour in the Alps almost a dozen years ago and have remained friends ever since, have ridden with them quite a bit over these many years. Shira had put together a superb route through the Central California countryside and the two Kawasakis easily ate up the happy miles towards Pinnacles. We crossed through a gigantic farm region and I was reminded of what an agricultural powerhouse California is. Passing one field full of long rows of strawberries I could see two school buses with PortoJuan banos for the dozen of migrant workers harvesting the fruit. The road into Pinnacles was a one lane twisty piece of pavement and true to form we found George and Cheryl waiting for us at the gate. We took in a bit of Pinnacles, with its huge spiring cliffs, and then followed them to their home in Pacific Grove. It was great to be riding with these two once again.
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One road we took was dubbed Carmel Valley Road and it was a real work out as it headed west towards the ocean with more tight turns and elevation changes than we had seen all trip. We rode into Carmel and stopped by the famous Mission and then headed to Pebble Beach and the beautiful 17 Mile Drive - lucky for us George and Cheryl are members and here we finally greeted the mighty Pacific once again. We mosied north around the coast and into the small, cozy town of Pacific Grove where our friends keep a home. A darling place a block from the sea and a block from the town it was perfect, if maybe not rustic enough for our ride; but appreciated just the same. Dinner that night was fabulous on the Pacific Coast and it occurred to me just how many friends had helped Shira celebrate her birthday. From the gathering just before we left, to our son Brian and his friends, the folks from Kawasaki and our pals Mike, Clem, Sue, George and Cheryl - it does make your heart smile and spirit grow warm. Shira’s special and all who know her know this to be true. Me? Not so much. I am simply the most fortunate man I know.
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
Down the Coast Big Sur and Highway 1
We got going around mid-morning and immediately picked up the Pacific Coast Highway 1 heading south. Once out of the tiny towns that you’ll find south of Monterey the road opens up and in no time at all you are moving south with the stunning coast and hills on your left and the wide Pacific crashing into the cliffs on your right. Here the road rises and falls and snakes in and around the canyons that rush to greet the ocean. PC1 and Big Sur is surely one of the most famous pieces of asphalt in the United States and it has earned every positive accolade. The ride and road are simply stunning. Every now and then we would stop for a photo and in some parts the wild flowers almost stole the show from the sea and pavement.
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
We took coffee at the Point Lucia; a small inn where we once spent the night in a cabin overlooking the cliffs, waves and sunset. Near Hearst Castle we stopped to say hello to the hundreds of Elephant Seals that were sunning and sanding themselves on the beach. But this was just a diversion from the day’s true treat - the ride itself! We’ll take Big Sur any day. We lunched overlooking the huge rock in Morro Bay and then continued south along the coast eventually seeking out an old hotel right on the beach that offered just enough rusticity to meet
our so-so standards on this trip. With the sun starting to fall to the west and a glass of wine calling there was one last dinner to be had in California. The next day we finished our ride south and back to Kawasaki returning two very filthy, but really excellent machines. These bikes fit our need perfectly on this trip and there is a reason we have used these machines on a number of tours. Catching a late flight out of John Wayne Airport, the jet banked up the coast and the late afternoon sun illuminated the state of California below us.
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It is probably the most diversified state in our union and the riding here is always exciting. This trip was made more so for what it represented to us another milestone and another beginning.
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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P RODUCT R EVIEW
ARAI’S VECTOR: LESS
IS
SUPERB
I may be a bit of an odd chap (and those who know me well would strike the “may be” and substitute “am”) but one of my favorite motorcycle essentials has always been a premium helmet. Not only can the stylish headgear save your life; there have been so many advancements over the years in terms of comfort and versatility that a really good lid can enhance the riding experience tremendously. Arai has always been at the top of the heap in the land of premium helmets, and while there has been an onslaught of new brands on the market that offer decent protection for the money, Arai has continued to refine their best and create new additions to their street line in order to serve a broader range of customer needs. Today’s review is a recent Arai-val (sorry about that) that is a more affordable midrange full-face helmet that still has the company’s most popular features. They describe this helmet thusly: “The Vector brings an added dimension to the Arai line: a helmet created specifically as a less-is-more concept for the rider who doesn’t want or need all the ‘bells and whistles,’ but who still demands the Arai name-and everything it stands for.” Personally, I think this is an exaggeration in that it sounds like the Vector might be a bit minimalist in the feature department. It’s anything but, especially when it comes to the engineering and construction designed to protect you in a get-off. The shell shape is an intermediate oval, which is probably the shape that will work well with the broadest segment of head types. Construction is Arai’s Complex Laminate fiberglass technology, and my size Small weighed in at 3 pounds, 5.6 ounces. Ventilation consists of a two-position (well, three if you include closed) chin vent; one position directs air through a carbon filter to the face, and the second position is better suited for defogging the visor. There’s a big top vent with a triangular scoop and a three-position switch, supplemented by a rear exhaust vent w/spoiler that has a similar switch (both are easy to use while the helmet is on and you’re wearing gloves). There are two brow vents in the visor, which is of course Arai’s Super AdSis unit that changes in seconds without tools. There’s also some exhaust vents in the side and in the lower liner, so as you might expect this helmet can move a lot of air when you need it to. Most of my testing was done in less that hellishly hot conditions, but there’s no question this is a very cool lid that wicks away moisture very efficiently. Overall, I found the new Vector to be wonderfully comfortable (and different cheek pads can be purchased for a tighter fit) as well as quiet, with only a slight bit of whistling around the brow vents on occasion. Arai’s are still hand-made, and the quality and workmanship are exemplary. My Phil Read replica is beautifully finished, and this fine helmet comes in a stunning arai (sorry, array) of solid colors and very cool designs. The Vector is of course DOT and Snell approved. Sizes are XS-XXL, and solid colors’ MSRP start at $459.95. araiamericas.com ~ Bill Heald
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
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K
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MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
awasaki’s newest entry into the not-quite naked sport bike segment is all-new from the cast aluminum machined wheels, to the adjustable orange-colored, all digital instrument panel. Nothing on this bike has been carried over from the previous model, including the rationale behind its existence. Looking at most current sport bikes on the market, Kawasaki concluded that only a small percentage of riders were capable of using the available technology and performance, and even that group had to go to a track to take full advantage. Their objective was to design a motorcycle that delivered maximum performance and fun in the environment which most people ride their bikes, the streets, lanes and by-ways across America.
Fierce Ride 2010 Kawasaki Z1000
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BACKROADS • MAY 2010
Central to accomplishing this goal, was focusing on “mass centralization,” moving as much of the weight from the ends and sides of the motorcycle, to the center between the wheels, the intended result being lighter tipin, more stability through corners, and less dramatic mid-corner changes of direction. This is accomplished primarily through the benefits of a new frame, a narrower, engine, shorter silencers and a horizontally shock mounted, rather than in the more traditional vertical mounting. An all-new engine was developed, 1043 cc vs. 953cc on the previous model. Both bore and stroke were enlarged, the crankshaft lowered, the cylinders tilted forward 5°, and a secondary balancer added to further reduce vibration. Fed by four Keihin 39mm throttle
bodies and 36mm oval sub-throttles, allowing narrower intake, the new engine develops 138 HP @ 7300 RPM and 81 Ft. Lbs torque at 7300 RPM, almost as much torque as a ZX10R, but at 900 fewer RPMs. All of this was accomplished in an engine package about the same size as the previous ZX1000. Taking a new step in intake air management, air is directed through two huge vents alongside the fuel tank, routed through holes in the side-frame members, and then dumped into the front of the air-box, the result is, as far as I know, the world’s first “designer” intake howl. As the tech reps stressed, there is no performance gain, but it does make a soul-satisfying yowl when you screw on the throttle.
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The engine is wrapped in a cast aluminum, five-piece, welded frame consisting of the steering head, left and right frame members, and two crossover sections. The result is a frame that’s almost 9 lbs lighter with 30% more tensional rigidity than the old ZX1000. The new rear sub-frame is also aluminum die-cast, resulting in less weight and a narrower seat. One of the most obvious design changes is the exhaust system that ends its four into two into a pre-chamber journey in to two huge, but short, gold hued, mufflers. Within the system are contained two catalytic converters eliminating the need for an 0_ sensor. The right-side muffler houses an exhaust valve easing flow and adding to the overall performance., The system is all new from the headers to the tips of the mufflers, and has been designed to provide a lower center of gravity and as a significant contributor to Kawasaki’s overall design objective of mass centralization.
Front suspension is via 41mm cartridge, inverted forks, now totally adjustable for compression, rebound and preload. In the rear, is an all new horizontally-mounted rear shock which has the same type of adjustability, sans compression. Unlike Kawasaki’s traditional rising rate suspension, Uni-Track, where the shock and linkage is positioned above the swing-arm, this new system locates the linkage below the swing-arm, providing easy access to the adjustments, and doing its part for mass centralization. The brakes are everything you’d expect in a modern sport bike, 300mm
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rotors, with radial mount, opposed four piston calipers. The levers are adjustable, and both feedback and performance are excellent, with a progressive linear feel when applied. The wheels are fitted with Dunlop Sportmaxs’ D210s, a F120/70-17 in the front and a 190/50-17 in the rear and on our brief excursion provided more than adequate traction and in fact, were pretty confidence inspiring Riding a new bike, anyone’s, always takes a little getting used to, as we pulled out of Kawasaki’s corporate parking lot, on our way to determine whether everything the PR folks told us was the real deal, my throttle hand couldn’t seem to get the hang of it, either too much or not enough gas. That coupled with some difficulty shifting gears made me feel like an absolute beginner as I jerkily made my way down the road playing follow the leader. I was beginning to question if my decision to attend the introduction of the new Kawasaki ZX1000 for Backroads was a good one after all. We moved through familiar streets and finally onto the I-405, my throttle hand miraculously calibrated itself to enable the proper amount of input for the desired RPMs, and the former missed shifts suddenly seemed to have disappeared as the Kawasaki’s six-speed transmission turned to butter.
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
The mission for the day was to ride one of So Cal’s most infamous roads, the Ortega Highway. Running 28 miles from the Pacific shore near San Juan Capistrano, over the Santa Ana mountains and down into Lake Elsinore, the road is a perfect test bed incorporating tight turns, sweepers and straights, steep ups and steep downs. The first part of the highway runs pretty uneventfully for five or six miles, and as usual for that time of day, a fair amount of traffic kept speeds at 55 or below, giving plenty of time to notice things that might not otherwise be noticed on a faster ride. The first thing that became noticeable was that I couldn’t read the tachometer, which consists of a digital line that moves from left to right, with tiny numbers indicating Rs in 500 digit increments. Hmmm. The seating position is very comfortable; you sit upright, with your feet angled back. I’m 6’, but more torso than leg, with a 30-inch inseam I was very comfortable, I checked with one of the riders with longer legs and he told me that he also found the position comfortable, and actually preferred it to another brand sport tourer he was evaluating.
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
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Levers for both the clutch and brake are easily adjustable, but I didn’t find it necessary to move from the furthest setting, even though I have mediumsized hands. While the headlight nacelle forms a kind of fly screen, there really isn’t much protection from the wind, and none from any debris that might be picked up by a bike or car in front of you. That being said, at highway speeds plus, with a helmet and gear, it wasn’t terribly uncomfortable either, but then again, it is California, so cold wasn’t an issue. Kawasaki says they will have a windshield as an accessory soon. Just before we got to the interesting parts of the highway, we came to a construction stop, which was great as it allowed us to move to the front of the traffic line, and gave us a clear shot at the best part of the highway, and a chance to see if the “centralization of mass” thing worked as claimed. Handling involves a lot of factors, in my mind it includes the bike’s ability to tip into a turn, hold the turn, and adjust to small steering corrections and pavement irregularities while in a turn, accelerate, decelerate and stop. In this context the bike was darn near perfect, tip-in was effortless, and while bumps and pavement irregularities were transmitted through the suspension a bit more harshly than I prefer, the bike never became unsettled, or bumped off my chosen line. The bike’s wide, flat handlebars, make it easy to tip into a turn, and the sticky Dunlops keep it firmly attached to the pavement. The engine delivers bags of torque, and pulls strongly from about 4,000
RPM to the redline, delivering a very stylish yowl all the way! I accidentally made a couple of starts from 3rd gear during one of the photo shoots and didn’t realize it until I abruptly ran into 6th. Throttle response is instantaneous, and input is best delivered in small, smooth quantities. The bike feels like it could use a tad taller gearing, at highway speeds it seemed to be working pretty hard, although due to the difficulty in seeing the tach, I couldn’t exactly tell, but I had an overwhelming desire to shift up. When we stopped for lunch, I had the rear shock softened up, and I adjusted the instrument panel, it’s got three angular settings, and I found one that worked with my bifocal prescription, but the numbers on the tach were still too small to read easily at speed. The suspension however became significantly less harsh, and more comfortable. While I’m not the intended target market, I’d sure add this bike to my list of potentials. It’s easy to ride, its seating position is as comfortable as my ‘02 Tiger, and I can, with my stubby legs, plant both feet on the ground. While its preferred playground are back roads and mountains, it also provides entertainment for those who get satisfaction out of just whacking the throttle open. The ZX1000 is available now at Kawasaki dealers. It comes in two color combinations, Pearl Stardust White, and Metallic Spark Black and is priced at a reasonable $10,499.
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MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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B OOK R EVIEW
TWO WHEELS TO ADVENTURE
BY
Awhile back we were hanging back at Monkey with a Gun with world traveler and Guinness world record holder Dr. Greg Frazier. The talk turned to motorcycle adventure books, of which he has written a few. I asked what book(s) he thought were really good, so we took a stroll into the small room that holds most of our riding library. Looking at the hundred or so books on the shelves he smiled and pulled one down. He held the book in front of me and asked if I had read it. Sheepishly I said no, but it was on the list. Greg then said, “Danny Liska’s book -Two Wheels To Adventure- this is the best adventure motorcycle travel book out there. The rest of the BMW motorcycle travel books after this one were attempts to replicate it, copies, right down to the cover picture. Liska... now he was the real thing, not saying the followers were not. What set him apart was he did not do his ride and book for money or fame, he did it for the adventure itself, and this book was a labor of love to be able for us to follow his path, giving us a taste of what he found in the 1960’s. When I met him he was selling this book to BMW shops out of the back of his car. He told me, ‘I’m no big time writer or professional photographer. My camera was cheap and the typewriter was old, but if you buy my book you’ll see it captured my trip or I’ll return your money.’ I bought his book, which he autographed for me. And he was right. I never once thought about a refund - If you are a true adventure riding aficionado, this is the one book you read, take to bed with your dreams.” That is a most serious statement when it comes from the likes of Greg Frazier. Serious indeed. So with the snow falling down and the northeast slowed to a stall, I pulled the book from the shelf, lit a fire, poured some wine and dove in. Greg was right. This is the real deal. Danny Liska epitomizes all that many ADV internet zombies, every Long Way Down groupie, and all the guys like me, who have done small forays into the extreme (with the promise of at least a roof and
DANNY LISKA
a meal at each day’s end), really wish they could be and do. The year is 1959 and Danny Liska decides he needs to ride as far north as he can go. Back in those days there was no Alaskan Pipe Line, nor Haul Road to Prudhoe Bay. The furthest north you could go was Circle City, Alaska. Packing up his BMW R/60 Liska headed up through Canada from his Montana home and along roads that are known these days to be extreme; back in the late ‘50s I can only imagine in what shape these were.
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BACKROADS • MAY 2010
One photograph in the book looked very familiar to me. It was of Liska’s BMW on the road heading toward the Worthington Glacier. Back in 1959, when I was just one year old, the road was gravel, but the topography hasn’t change much in 50 years as I realized that I had almost the very same shot hanging in my office. We had framed the bikes riding the road towards the giant glacier a few years back and the two photographs were nearly identical. I felt as if I was on Liska’s trail. I would feel this same way later in the book.
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with his own will to push forward. This is a true story of a real life adventure. In the end not only does Danny Liska finish what he sets out to do, but continues on to become a stunt double for Yul Brynner on the trip back to the United States, but that’s a whole ‘nother chapter... I had a hard time to put Two Wheels To Adventure down and found myself reading it well into the night. When done I had to agree with Frazier. This is “the book” of all adventure riding books. Okay, now here is the Somofabitch’ part... The book is no longer in print. I’m not saying you can’t get your hands of one, but you are going to have to search...and pay. You can find it on eBay and Amazon but it will cost you from $150 to $400 smackers. Still, the book touched me and I thoroughly enjoyed it and felt it needed a review here in Backroads. Look around. Ask your friends. Maybe somebody will lend you their First Edition (is it really a First Edition if it’s the only edition?). Perhaps, like us, you have had this book taking up shelf space. If so take it off the shelf and enjoy one serious two wheel adventure! ~ Brian Rathjen
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“The only reason you’re not getting a ticket is because I couldn’t catch you,” spat the policeman. Hopping mad would be the exact definition, and right before I was about to inform him that the veins sticking out of his neck might not be good I paused. With the close match of his skin tone to the tank of the new Hypermotard alerting me to the possible folly of saying anything at this point, I just kept my mouth shut as he continued yelling. Who am I to be offering health advice? With my blood pressure hitting 180 over 110 just sitting on the new Hypermotard in the parking lot, I felt the saliva in my mouth drying up and my heart start palpitating. The over the grip throttle cable looked like something from a flat track racer, there was a minimalist view over the small instrument cluster, and the perfectly symmetrical brake and clutch master cylinder layouts screamed action at me,
First Ride
2010 Ducati Hypermotards words Neale Bayly • images Brian J Nelson
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
I knew it was going to be a wild ride. Turning the ignition key and firing the big beast to life, the immediate throbbing and pulsing from the air-cooled V-twin instantly started pumping the morning’s black coffee through my veins: Raw, urgent, and with the booming soul that’s been with Ducati since I rode them in the early ‘80s, there is no other motorcycle that compares. Sculptured bar risers and neat fasteners hold the wires perfectly. The bike exhibits a compact efficiency, the essential elements of riding pared down to the basics; a pair of handlebars, a tubular frame and a powerful engine. It’s mechanical minimalism that flies in the face of ever more complicated, (dare I say), cluttered machines these days. There are no frills with the Hypermotard, nothing to detract from the visceral experience that is, and always will be, Ducati. Slipping into gear, and rolling out of the parking lot I took a few deliberate deep breaths to get things under control. Riding through the city of Scottsdale, Arizona, this was a good thing as our group of journalists negotiated the morning traffic. Riding the Hypermotard was like being in a giant rubber slingshot at full extension. Touch the throttle and in an instant the bike will launch forward with a rapid, muscular force that will slam you back into the seat. Direction changes are made by an invisible fly-by-wire attached to your retina, and just flicking your eyes in the direction you want to go makes the Hyper obey with a precision and commitment that’s hard to find on two wheels. Ducati’s tried and tested trellis frame, is four pounds lighter for 2010. This weight reduction comes from some innovative work by Ducati’s frame supplier, who uses a new process to replace previously heavy forged sections with newly machined pieces. It helps the new EVO lose a total of 15 pounds over its predecessor, which wasn’t a heavy bike to begin with, and a gain of five horsepower makes the whole bike even more mad. A big chunk of this weight reduction comes from the new engine. Still using the same basic architecture, the aircooled Desmodue Evoluzione power plant has an 848-style crankshaft and flywheel assembly, and lighter rare-earth magnets in the alternator for an exact weight loss of 11.5 pounds. Ducati used Vacural technology to vacuum diecast the crankcases in the same way they produce their Superbikes and being an air cooled engine, it doesn’t have
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
the extra weight of radiators and cooling systems. There is no increase in displacement with the 98 mm bore and the 71.5mm stroke is retained to give a total of 1078cc.The increase in horsepower comes from a new ECU, firing a single spark plug in place of the previous dual spark system, and improvements in flow to the cylinder head is aided by a bigger air box. My pulse raced and my mouth was back to dry, as we hit the twisty roads of Tortilla Flats. For a few miles I got stuck behind a cage full of bluehaired bird watchers from Wisconsin, fighting to keep the mental rental in between the yellow lines. I struggled to get within ten miles per hour of the speed limit as I made a quick
pass on a piece of straight road, our policeman friend happened to be sitting in a side road. As luck would have it, another journalist decided to try the same thing, but didn’t notice the lightly disguised unmarked truck and ended up taking the fall. Hey, you win some you lose some, and not one to miss being handed a big fat mulligan I spent the rest of the test being a lot more reserved. Using this spirited early morning ride as a chance to evaluate the handling and braking, I found the Hypermotard 1100 Evo in a class of its own. Due to the lightweight tight nature of the chassis, there can be few quicker motorcycles along a twisting piece of back road. Up front a pair of overachieving 50mm Marzocchi forks, hold a lightweight seventeen-inch wheel. Fully adjustable they worked perfectly on the bumpy road, absorbing anything they found without transmitting any unwanted movement to the rider. This compliance came without losing any stability in the faster turns.
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In the rear, a single adjustable ZF Sachs shock is held in place by Ducati’s signature single sided swing arm, and a standard fare seventeen-inch rear wheel. A pair of radial mounted Brembo four piston calipers give the iron handshake to a set of 305 mm discs up front, while a smaller 245mm disc gets a twin piston caliper. Both systems are progressive in their action, which makes trail braking a breeze without sacrificing any bite you might need when the pace picks up. I have not taken a Hypermotard to the racetrack, but I would imagine it would be a blast as this is where the handling and braking package would really shine. During the day we got a chance to sample the new “SP.” This is essentially the same bike as the basic EVO but with some extra tuning to make it even more sport minded. As if the basic EVO wasn’t enough. Coming with top shelf suspension and Superbike brakes, the bike has more power and less weight. The fully adjustable Marzocchi 50mm forks have an additional 1.2 inches of travel and add 1.38 inches of ground clearance when combined with a longer rear shock. This is a top shelf Ohlins’ remote reservoir item, also fully adjustable. I’m not sure of the set up of the bike we rode, other than noticing the SP’s had pretty shagged race compound tires, which told me they had come from a racetrack test. These were Pirelli Supercorsa SPs and came wrapped around the sexy looking Marchesini lightweight alloy rims. Expecting the bike’s suspension to be set too stiff, I was surprised by how compliant it was over the various surfaces. A word of warning is needed for the brakes on the SP. Using Superbike styled mono block Brembo four piston calipers, sourced from the 1098, you need a little more sensitivity when throwing out the anchors, as they can overwhelm a bike weighing less than 380 pounds. Where the standard Hypermotard came in Ducati red, the SPs all came in the attractive reverse white and red livery. They also came with a two into one Termignoni exhaust system for our test, where the standard EVO comes with a twin rear pipe set up. This aftermarket system is loud when the throt-
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MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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tle is open to the point of burning lots of gas, so some restraint is needed round town: something that isn’t going to come easy on this bike. All the usual stuff like switchgear and date options are first class, and the mirrors even work fairly well. The seat height is going to be a challenge for shorter riders, or however we are supposed to address them these days, and even for my close to six foot frame it took a little juggling at traffic lights to get into or out of gear and have the correct foot on the floor. This is really little more than a nit pick, as once you are on the move, few motorcycles are as exciting to ride. Traveling out to Arizona to ride the new Hypermotards, the big question in my mind was why choose this model over the new Streetfighter. Also a naked, minimalist machine, I wondered what would make someone take the lower spec, air-cooled machine over the high zoot lightly dumbed-down Superbike. Now I can answer my own question: while they share the same concept the application is as different as chalk and cheese. Where the Streetfighter demands maximum attention at all times, and is so wickedly fast the Hyper is less, well, hyper, and more fun on a public road. I heard some complaints about the SP, with its longer rear shock and tighter steering angle, being too sensitive, but if you keep a light grip on the bars it’s no problem. It never gets nervous, even on bumpy roads, and the limits are way beyond anything you need to be exploring on a public road. So after an interesting start and a long day in the saddle my conclusions are clear, I was just as excited by the two new Hypermotards as I was at the beginning. MSRP for the 1100 EVO is $11,995 and for the SP jumps to $14,495. See your local Ducati dealer or visit www.ducati.com
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Words and images Neale Bayly
Arriving at my local racetrack, Carolina Motorsports Park in South Carolina, I found Mark Sheldon busy preparing for the mandatory STT riders meeting. Talking with him and seeing his enthusiasm for the new management and all the exciting improvements and changes that have been happening at CMP lately, I knew we were in for a good day. Over the years I have sat through more STT riders’ meetings than I can remember, and with no offense intended to Mark, there are few more entertaining than motorcycling’s own Adult ADD poster child, Monte Lutz. That said, when Mark began his presentation, I have to admit to paying more attention than I have in years also. Motorcycling is dangerous. It comes with risks that our neighbors and co-workers aren’t facing on the golf course or tennis courts. A bad accident can take a life or leave lasting injuries, and maybe that’s why the experience is so much more exciting than playing with your balls. (Golf or tennis that is) So when Mark started telling us about the research STT and two other track day providers have been doing to highlight and pinpoint how and when accidents are most likely to happen, I was all ears. According to Mark, 90% of crashes at track days happen in the last five minutes of the rider session. This is caused by mental and physical fatigue causing mistakes that can lead to accidents. I personally agree with this as I have often thought about the structure of a twenty-minute session, and how there is nothing else I do in life that demands that level of concentration for so long. Just a couple of seconds of distraction on a racetrack can spell disaster, and fatigue is one of the primary causes of this. To combat this and people’s natural desire to not want to admit to being tired, STT South now flies a white flag the lap before the checkered flag comes out. This gives riders the opportunity to come in a bit early, and during our day with STT I took the clue every time. Leaving everyone properly informed as to how the day would take place, we all took off riding and had one of the best days I’ve had in memory. We all started each session at school zone speed or roughly 35mph. This allows riders to look outside of each turn at a nice slow pace to gauge the run off area if they are forced to use it at high speed. It also gives a chance for
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
everyone to put some heat in the tires. Having seen a handful of people getting scooped up in turn two at CMP on the first lap, this is also a fantastic idea as cold tires can and will bite you hard if you are not careful.
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throttle, it’s a piece of advice we never need to stop hearing, and this talk alone has cut the amount of high sides in half this year. Finishing the day, I couldn’t remember the last time I attended a sold out track day where the ambulance didn’t roll, and I put more miles on my tires than the crash truck. Sure a few people had off track excursions. We’re not trying to sink a long put here, but there weren’t many. Big thanks to Mark and Lois and STT for a great day out as usual, and kudos from all of us for continuing to raise the bar at track days. Hopefully, we all became better and safer riders as we attempt to gain more knowledge on the racetrack. For more info log onto www.sportbiketracktime.com
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Father’s Day Contest Mark has also identified another area of potential problem with the liter bike riders. The high side. As possibly the scariest and most damaging way to part company with your bike, Mark gives detailed instructions on feathering and not chopping the throttle when the rear wheel starts spinning. As something that we have all experienced when being too greedy with the
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MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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P RODUCT S POTLIGHT
HYPERPRO ESA CONVERSION UPGRADES
Introduced in 2004, BMW’s Electronic Suspension Adjustment (ESA) added electronics and motors onto basic, one-size-fits-all BMW shocks. EPM Performance Imports can replace the basic damping and spring parts on all BMW ESA shocks with higher quality Hyperpro components matched to a rider’s needs. Hyperpro shocks provide increased performance, comfort and safety making them an ideal upgrade for BMW motorcyclists. The Hyperpro components are also available with additional optional features not available on BMW shocks including adjustable high- and low-speed compression damping using a remote reservoir. The components can also be selected to increase or decrease the seat height while still maintaining the ESA adjustability. While many BMW riders rack up the miles, even those with average mileage, may be shocked to find they have exceeded the life span of their original BMW shocks. A slow deterioration of performance can occur after just 15,000 miles. Rather than buy another set of BMW ESA shocks costing over $3,000, EPM Performance Imports can supply you with new, top-of-the-line Hyperpro shocks and equip them with the OEM ESA components for just $1,399. As an added bonus, the high quality Hyperpro shocks will last longer than OEM shocks and are rebuildable. The combination of top-ofthe-line components, extended service life, personalized features and ESA adjustability is the best of all worlds. To begin the conversion process, the BMW ESA shocks must be removed and shipped to EPM Performance Imports. If an owner doesn’t wish to handle the process himself, EPM Performance Imports can refer them to a local retailer. The ESA parts will then be checked, dismantled and installed onto new Hyperpro shocks. The converted shocks maintain the same ESA function as the originals. If a BMW motorcyclist is looking for increased adjustability as well as increased performance, the Hyperpro ESA Conversion shocks are compatible with the Hyperpro ESA Adjuster. This “plug and play” box allows the rider to reprogram the ESA damping settings for truly individual sport, normal and comfort settings without any permanent modifications to the bike. The Hyperpro ESA Adjuster is currently available for the BMW R1200GS and R1200RT motorcycles with ESA, with other models coming soon. EPM Performance Imports is the exclusive importer of Hyperpro and YSS shocks in the United States providing shocks for most motorcycle makes and models fitting all riders’ needs and price points. For more information, to find a retailer in your area or to purchase direct, go to EPM Performance Imports on the web at www.epmperf.com, email: info@epmperf.com or call toll free 877-786-6543 or 732-786-9777. Looking for some places to go? Check out our website - many downloadable GPS routes to keep you busy. www.backroadsusa.com
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BACKROADS • MAY 2010
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UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR E V E RY M O N T H - W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G Saturday • Bergen County H-D/BMW Saddle Up Saturdays and BBQ • 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenharleydavidson.com Second Sunday • Philadelphia Breakfast Ride. Meet at Silk City Diner - 5th/Spring Garden, Philadelphia PA - 8am • 215-922-2214
What’s Happenin’ 24 • Long Branch Harley-Davidson Open House. 9am-4pm. Music by Timepiece, demo rides, pinstriping by K&M Signs, FREE Lunch and great deals in the merchandise tent • 671 Broadway, Long Branch, NJ • 732-229-8518 • www.hdlongbranch.com 24 • Baer Harley-Davidson Open House. Food and entertainment all day. Victory Demo Rides • 330 Grandview Ave/Rte. 6, Honesdale, PA • 570-253-2000 • baer-inc.com
Every Sunday • Eastern Suffolk ABATE Breakfast Run. Crossroads Diner - Calverton NY. 10:30am. Eat and Ride After • 631-369-2221
24-25 • Motorcycle Mania Show to benefit Fallen Heroes Fund. Westchester County Center, 198 Central Ave, White Plains, NY. 10am-6pm. $10/pp • www.motorcyclmaniashow.com
First Sunday of the month • Layton Meet at the Layton Deli, corner of Dingmans/Bevans Rd, CR 560, Layton, NJ. Meet around 8am – breakfast available. Join others for a ride or head out on your own
25 • VFW Post 2064 3rd Annual Poker Run to benefit veteran’s causes. Sign in: 209 Main St, Maybrook, NY. 9-11am. $20/pp. 100 mile run in Hudson Valley region of NYS. Commemorative pin, food, drink, music, cash prizes • 845-427-5881
Every Tuesday • The Ear - Spring St, NYC. Come meet some fellow riders and do some benchracing or whatever. 8pm-ish
25 • OCC & Street Life Auto Club Spring Bling Car Show • 14 Crossroads Court, Newburgh, NY • www.orangecountychoppers.com• 845-522-5222
Third Tuesday • 7:30pm ABATE of the Garden State, North Jersey chapter. Black River Barn, 1178 Rt. 10 West, Randolph, NJ. 7:30pm. New members and all mc brands welcome. Help fight for rights as a motorcyclist in NJ! Alex Martinez (973) 390-1918
28 • Bergen County H-D women’s Garage Party. 6-8pm. Learn, share, meet new riding partners and enjoy all there is Harley-Davidson • 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201843-6930 • www.bergenharleydavidson.com
Every Wednesday • Country Bike Night at the Airport Pub sponsored by the American Legion Riders Post 132, Franklin, NJ • 6pm - ? • CR 639, Sussex, NJ - next to the airport • 973-702-1215
28 • Vito’s Full Moon Cruise. Call for details or send email address for notification • fwspeeryamaha@aol.com • 973-778-6256
Every Thursday • Red Knights XX PA at the Dairy Queen, Route 209, Marshall’s Creek, PA, exit 309 off Route 80 • 6-9:30pm, weather permitting Every Thursday • Bike Night at The Old Schoolhouse Restaurant, Rte. 206, Downsville, NY • 607-363-7814 Every Thursday • Bike and Boat Nite at Woodport House/Sullivan’s Marina, 125 Route 181, Lake Hopatcong, NJ. 6-10 pm starting May 22. DJ, music, food and drink specials. Partial proceeds to benenfit ASPCA • www.woodporthouse.com Second/Fourth Thursday • 5-pm • Bike Night at Cliff’s Cycle Revolution, 485 Federal Rd, Brookfield, CT • 203-740-1279 • www.cliffscyclerevolution.com
APRIL 2010 21 • Odyssey Productions 9th Annual Spring Breakout. Ice Time Arena, Newburgh, NY. Motorcycle Show and Swap Meet. People’s Choice Custom and Antique Bike Show, Vendors, Music and More • www.odypro.com • 607-863-4295
Line ‘em up!
24 • Bob’s BMW Spring Kickoff/Open House. 10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD • 800269-2627 • www.bobsbmw.com 24 • OCC Spring Opener Bike Show & Charity Poker Run • 14 Crossroads Court, Newburgh, NY • www.orangecountychoppers.com• 845-522-5222
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30-May 2 • MotoGiro East . Headquarters: Jiminy Peak, Mass. Tour through Massachusetts and New York State. For more info contact: Geoff Boughton • 860-6515088 • bultacoracer@yahoo.com • www.motogiro-usa.com
MAY 2010 1 • Cross Country Cycles hosts Chris ‘Teach’ McNeil and his amazing stunt riding. 10m to 4pm. 875 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ • 732-635-0094 • www.ccbmw.com 1 • Black Label Choppers Grand Opening. 228 E. Blackwell St, Dover, NJ • 973-9894252 • www.4BLC.com 2 • Cross Island MC Long Island Timed or Tour Run. Sign in: Formula One Motorsports, 4030 Sunrise Hwy, Oakdale, NY. Timed Run - Sign in: 9am; Key: 10am with 30 mph timed run; Tour: 10am with route sheet of 100 miles of LI’s best roads. . $10/bike. • www.crossislandmc.com 2 • Branchville Motors Spring Open House. 10am-2pm • 71 Ethan Allen Hwy, Ridgefield, CT • 203-544-7900 • www.branchville.com 2 • Ride for the Record, Ride for the Cure. Help set the Guinness World Record for ‘Largest Parade of BMW Motorcycles and donate to the Pediatric Cancer Center of St Jude’s Hospital. Sign in: Montgomeryville Cycle Center, 2901 Bethlehem Pike, Rte. 309, Hatfield, PA 10-11:30am. Ride departs 11:30am. Food, drink and 15% discounts on all
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR parts and accessories. Rain or Shine! For more info call Tod 610-287-5275
What’s Happenin’
5 • Bergen County H-D/BMW HumpDay MusicFest. 6-9pm • 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenharleydavidson.com
in/Endsite: 9-11am Spruce Run Rec. Area, 68 Van Syckels Rd, Clinton, NJ. Picnic/Pig Roast, music by John Austin Band, bike show. Pre-Reg: $25 incl. t-shirt; Day of event: $25, shirts extra; Picnic only: $10 • www.sbwa.org • 908-782-0422
7-9 • 3rd Annual Buzzard Bottom Campout. High Country Motorcycle Camp, Ferguson, NC. Located 20 miles east of the Blue Ridge Pkwy at MM 276 • www.highcountrymotorcyclecamp.com
15 • Renegade Classics hosts the Wallkill Engine Co. #6 4th Annual Poker Run. Sign in: 9:30am - Ride: 10:30am. $25/rider; $10/pass. 22 Cty. Rte. 78, Middletown, NY • 845-956-2200 • www.renegadeclassicsmiddletown.com
7 • International Female Ride Day. Join Bergen County H-D for a FREE women-only ride, live music and BBQ. Sign in: 9am; Ride: 10am-1pm • 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • www.bergenharleydavidson.com • 201-843-6930
15 • Liberty H-D Hot Rods & Harleys, downtown Rahway, NJ. Noon-6pm. Bubba Blackwell Stunt Spectacular, Bike Show 5 Live Bands, Food and Beer Garden • www.libertyharleycom
8 • Bergen Sport Cycle Customer Appreciation Poker Run.10am-4pm. $15/rider; $5/pass. Ride 1-4pm. Prizes, refreshments and giveaways. Raffle for 2006 CRF100F to benefit Oasisnj.org • 30 US Hwy 46 East, Lodi, NJ • www.bergensportcycle.com • 973-478-7711
16 • Freedom Run to Ground Zero. $30/rider; $15/pass. incl. GWB toll, event pin and meal ticket. Reg. 9-10:30am Justice center parking lot, 10 Main St, Hackensack, NJ. Ride leaves 11am SHARP. Benefits 200 Club of Bergen County. Day begins with brief ceremony at start point, police escorted run covers Northern NJ and ends at Liberty State Park for food and festival. Multiple food vendors (bring money), music, games, vendors and more. www.bergenharleydavidson.com • 201-843-6930
8 • Rockaway/Florham Park Rotary Clubs Charity Poker Run/Pig Roast. Sign in Swim & Sport Club, 272 Emmans Rd, Flanders, NJ. 10am-Noon. $25/pp. Self-guided road run • www.FlorhamParkRotary.com • 973-627-9337 8 • Art of the Bike’s 1st Annual Classic Bike and Bluegrass Festival. Noon-5pm. Frenchtown, NJ. Kick-off with charity ride of classic and vintage bikes leaving from Van Zant airport at 10am to benefit the National Stroke Assoc. Music by such greats as George Laks, Bill Simms Jr and Joe Wills. Art Show launch at Open Space Gallery, 36 Bridge St. For more info www.artofthebike.com
16 • Ramapo Rumble for Education to benefit Ramapo College Scholarhip Endowment. Sign in: Ramapo College of NJ, 505 Ramapo Valley Rd, Mahwah, NJ. 8:30-10am. $25/rider; $15/pass. Scenic ride on the backroads of NJ. 19 • Bergen County H-D women’s Garage Party. 6-8pm. Learn, share, meet new riding partners and enjoy all there is Harley-Davidson • 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201843-6930 • www.bergenharleydavidson.com
8 • Cycle Motion Open House. 1269 Dolsontown Rd, Middletown, NY • 845-343-2582 • www.cyclemotioninc.com
20-23 • COG Northeast ‘Spring Fling’ Rally. Somerset, PA. Sport-touring at its finest. For more information visit www.cog-online.org or contact Jaso at 814-535-8669
8-9 • Zack’s V-Twin Spring Open House. Victory Demo Truck, live music by Mad Dog, Hawg Wild BBQ • 799 Violet Ave/Rte. 9G, Hyde Park, NY • 845-229-1177
22 • O’Toole’s Harley-Davidson Open House • 4 Sullivan St, Wurtsboro, NY • 845-8882426 • www.otooleshd.com
11-12 • Locomotion Powersports hosts Victory Demo Truck • 138 Orange Ave/Rte. 202, Suffern, NY • 845-357-1190 • www.locomotionpowersports.com
22 • 3rd Annual Hope for Huntingtons Motorcycle Run to benefit NJ Chapter of the Huntington’s Disease Society of America. Sign in: Kosco HD, 1149 Rte. 23 South, Kinnelon, NJ. 9-11am. Pre-reg: $15/rider; $10/pass. Day of Event: $20/rider. • www.koscohd.com • 973-838-8800
13-15 • Mid-Atlantic Retread Rally. Bird-In-Hand Family Inn, Rt. 340, Bird-In-Hand, PA. Rally includes breakfast both days, Friday BBQ, Sat. Banquet, entertainment, free ice cream, rally pin, miniature golf tournament, guided and self-guided tours, charity poker run, 50/50 • www.midatlanticretreads.com 15 • Whitehorse Gear 5th Annual Spring Open House. 10am-3pm. Center Conway, NH. Brownse their many shelves for great buys. Rain or shine (but it never rains over Whitehorse!) • www.whitehorsegear.com/open-house • 603-356-6556 15 • Mavrix Motorsports Open House. 9am to 4pm. DJ Tobin and Criket from WPDH noon-2pm. Free Chicken BBQ 11am-3pm. 21 Dunning Rd, Middletown, NY • 845-344BIKE • www.mavrixmotorsports.com 15 • SBWA 8th Annual Poker Ride for the River to benefit the South Branch Watershed Assoc. Prizes for top hands, refreshments for all. Families and all bikes welcome. Sign
22 • Cliff’s Cycle Revolution Open House. 10am-3pm. Fun, Food, Specials, Prizes, Vendors, Bike Show • www.cliffscyclerevolution.com • 203-740-1279 • 485 Federal Rd, Brookfield, CT. 22 • OCC Summer Kick Off Bike Show & Charity Ride • 14 Crossroads Court, Newburgh, NY • www.orangecountychoppers.com• 845-522-5222 22 • Bob’s BMW Vintage and Classic Day. 10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD • 800-2692627 • www.bobsbmw.com 22-23 • O’Toole’s H-D Open House. 9 to 4. Live music, food, prizes, raffles. 4 Sullivan St, Wurtsboro, NY • 845-888-2426 • www.otooleshd.com 23 • Heels on Wheels TV and Streetlight Mission benefit run of Women Riding for Women. Sign in: Watchung Reservation, NJ. 9:30-11am. $20/rider; $10/pass. Police
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Backroads 15th Anniversary Summer Sojourn • August 2-6
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Fontana Village, Fontana Dam, NC
www.fontanavillage.com • 828-498-2211 Rooms from $69/night + tax Ask for Backroads Rally when booking Like our 10th Anniversary, we’re doing something a bit different and bringing you to the infamous Dragon Deal’s Gap. For those who have never done it, it must be done. For those who have, enjoy the other great roads that abound in this area, where they actually name their twistilicious pavement.
Fall Fiesta September 26-29
Gray Ghost Inn • West Dover, VT www.grayghostinn.com • 800-745-3615
Same, Same, but Different.
How could we not make a trip to our favorite people in Vermont? Magnus and Carina will welcome us with open arms, as will the colorful roads of Vermont, New Hampshire and NY State.
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BACKROADS • MAY 2010
Page 55
UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR escorted run to StreetLight Mission, Elizabeth, NJ for BBQ and live music • www.heelsonwheelstv.com 23 • Ramapo MC Scrabble Run. Sign in: Hog Heaven, Route 17N, Sloatsburg, NY 9am. $15/bike. Trophies for longest word, high score word and most ‘4 letter’ words. Ride the most scenic roads of Rockland/Orange counties • 201-767-3594 • www.ramapomc.org 23 • 9th Annual British & European Classic Motorcycle Day. 10am-6pm • $10. Butler’s Orchard, Germantown, MD. Concours, swap meet, door prizes, tech talks, trials demo • www.classicmotorcycleday.org 26 • Vito’s Full Moon Cruise. Call for details or send email address for notification • fwspeeryamaha@aol.com • 973-778-6256
JUNE 2010 6 • Benefit Poker Run for Dingman Delaware Little League. Sign in Side Street Tavern, Rte. 739, Dingmans Ferry, PA 9-11am with coffee, juice and danish. $25/hand. Cash prize for best and worst hands. Last card back @ Side Street Tavern - 2pm Party with live music by Fantasia Band followed by steak dinner. Helmets needed. For more info please call 570-296-5337 7 • Cliff’s Cycle Revolution hosts track day at Loudon, NH. For more details contact www.cliffscyclerevolution.com • 203-740-1279 • 485 Federal Rd, Brookfield, CT. 11-13 • Rhinebeck Grand National Super Meet. Antique motorcycles, parts and collectibles. Dutchess County Fairgrounds, 6550 Spring Brook Ave, Rhinebeck, NY. Gates open 8am; parking free; general admission $15/one day; $25/3 days. Antique MC Auction June 12 • 845-987-2405 • www.rhinebecknationalmeet.com 7-12 • Americade www.tourexpo.com
-
world’s
largest
touring
rally,
Lake
George,
NY
•
12-20 • 87th Annual Laconia Bike Week, Loudon, NH • www.laconiamcweek.com 12 • Gibby’s Run to benefit the David Gibson Memorial Scholarship fund. Scenic Poker Run thru Northern NJ with BBQ and rugby match to follow. $20/rider. Sign in: 10am, Rattlesnake Ranch Cafe, 559 East Main St, Denville, NJ. Endsite: Veteran’s Memorial Field, Denville, NJ. BBQ, 2 bands, rugby match, prizes and adult beverages • 973-2294134 • www.everythinggibby.com 13 • March of Dimes Bikers for Babies. Sign in: 45 Rt. 46 East, Pine Brook, NJ. 9-11am. $20/rider pre-reg; $25/day of event. Ride to: NJ State Fairgrounds, Augusta, NJ for food, entertainment and vendors • Carol Roberts • 973-882-0700 ext. 717 17 • Bob’s BMW Track Day at Summit Point. Reserve Early! 10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD • 800-269-2627 • www.bobsbmw.com 19 • OCC Summer Showdown Bike Show & Charity Poker Run • 14 Crossroads Court, Newburgh, NY • www.orangecountychoppers.com• 845-522-5222 24-27 • Thunder in the Valley, Johnstown, PA • www.johnstownthunder.com 26 • Bergen Sport Cycle Motorcycle Show. All years, makes and models welcome stock, custom, radical, whatever. Prizes awarded, refreshments and giveaways. Set up: 10-11:30am • Show: Noon-4pm. Pre-reg: $10; Day of show: $15 • 30 US Hwy 46 East, Lodi, NJ • www.bergensportcycle.com • 973-478-7711 26 • Vito’s Full Moon Cruise. Call for details or send email address for notification • fwspeeryamaha@aol.com • 973-778-6256 26 • Schoch’s Harley-Davidson hosts Cal Shoch Sr Memorial Ride. For more information please contact them at 570-992-7500 • www.harleyclothes.com 26 • Cliff’s Cycle Revolution hosts BMW Demo Truck. Demo rides and more. Check website for updates • www.cliffscyclerevolution.com • 203-740-1279 • 485 Federal Rd, Brookfield, CT.
JULY 2010
9-11 • AMA Vintage Motorcycle Days, Mid-Ohio Sports Car Course, Lexington, Ohio. • www.amavintagemotorcycledays.com 15-18 • BMW MOA International Rally, Deschutes Fair & Expo Center, Redmond, OR • www.bmwmoa.org/rally10 17-18 • Ramapo MC 34th Ramapo 500 Road Tour. Two-day 500 mile carefully chosen
What’s Happenin’
AUGUST 2010 13-15 • Ride the Roof of North America with the 21st gathering of the BIG DOGS. Ridgway, CO. Hobnob with Pikes Peak, Paris Dakar and Baja 1000 finishers, enjoy multimedia shows, devour famed Mike Landry Cajun Gumbo and 2” thick T-bone steaks. FOR EXPERIENCED OFF-ROAD ADVENTURE RIDERS ONLY! Hosted by BMW of Denver and Bob’s BMW. Limited entrant invitational. For more info • Clem Cykowski at 303755-6400 • bigdogbmw@yahoo.com • www.horizonsunlimited.com/bigdog 22 • 38th Foggy Mountain Reliability Run. Timed Road Run. Call or send email address for notification • fwspeeryamaha@aol.com • 973-778-6256 22 • Joe Pitt Benefit Memorial Ride. Sign in: Dog House, 17 N . Midland Ave, Nanuet, NY 9-11am. $25 Pre-reg/$30 DOV.Scenic ride through Orange/Rockland Cty, NY with route sheets. Incl. food, refreshments, music, door prizes and more. 28 • 2nd Annual Schenectady Thunder ARTBIKE Festival. State St, downtown Schenectady, NY. 11am-6pm. 3 live bands, photo exhibit, food, vendors, more • 518464-8933 31-Sept. 3 • Curve Cowboy Reunion, Killington, VT. Gathering of K12LT, but open to all brands and models of motorcycle • www.curvecowboyreunion.com
SEPTEMBER 2010 9-12 • Killington Classic Motorcycle Rally. Town of Killington. Vermont’s Premier Motorcycle Rally. For more info: www.killingtonclassic.com 12 • Lost Wheels MC 35th Annual Poker Run. Sign in: Dutchess Stadium, Rt. 9D, Fishkill, NY. 9-11:30am. AMA: $23; non-AMA: $25; Under 15: $10. Endsite: Canopus Lake Beach Area, Fahnestock St. Park, Carmel, NY. Live entertainment by Guys Night Out, vendors, food, 50/50, door prizes, trophies, games, ride-in bike show. Awards for Best Rep Club, games, bike show and poker hands • www.lostwheels.com 12 • 2nd Annual Poker Lime Run to benefit Multiple Sclerosis. Sign in: Baer Sport Center, 330 Grandview Ave, Honesdale, PA or Masonic Harmony Lodge #8, 519 Rte. 206, Andover Twnshp, NJ. 9am-Noon. $20/pp. Scenic ride through the Delaware Valley/Kittatiny Range to Walpack Inn for a fantastic meal. Live music and prizes for top hands and best times • 570-253-2000 • 973-948-3890 12 • Larz Anderson Classic European Motorcycle Day, Brookline, MA 17-19 • 3rd Annual Boxer Shorts at Snow Farm Rally. Limited to 40 private double rooms, this spouse-friendly artist retreat center near the Berkshires at Snow Farm in Williamsburg, MA. Great roads and legalized off-roading in nearby October Mtn. State Forest. $140/pp includes full breakfast Sat/Sun and fancy dinner Sat. Pre-reg deadline Aug. 15. For more info and mailing address email vcruz@mediapr.net 17-19 • MotoGiro USA. Finger Lakes Region, NY. Headquarters TBD. For more info: Karl Smolenski and Alia Howard • ksmolenski@yahoo.com • www.motogiro-usa.com 19 • 3rd Annual Pony Express MC Poker Run to benefit American Cancer Society. Sign in/endsite: My Place, 911 Little Britain Rd, New Windsor, NY. 9-11am. $20/rider; $35 two up. Food, door prizes, live music. Non-riders welcome at endsite at 1pm. $20/pp • www.ponyexpressmchv.net • PEMCHV@gmail.com • 845-361-4133 22 • Vito’s Full Moon Cruise. Call for details or send email address for notification • fwspeeryamaha@aol.com • 973-778-6256 25 • Cliff’s Cycle Revolution Vintage Days • www.cliffscyclerevolution.com • 203740-1279 • 485 Federal Rd, Brookfield, CT.
OCTOBER 2010 24 • American Spirit MC Annual Tombstone Tour to benefit Hicksville Post of the Veterans of Foreign Wars. Sign in: VFW Hall, 320 So. Broadway, Hicksville, NY – 9 to 10am. $20/rider; $10/pass. Food, music, prizes • www.americanspiritmcinc.com • 516-485-8270
MOUNTAINS of WEST VIRGINIA Motorcycle-Oriented Lodging
et g d
ndly ~ e i r F
In Town ~ Fre eB
rea kf a
st
18 • 6th Annual Liberty Towers Benefit Run/Steak Bust. Sign in: 9-11am. VFW Post 5360, Mill St, Newton, NJ. AMA Sanctioned. $20/rider; $10/pass. Event pin, BBQ, raffle, prizes, vendors til 3pm • 973-383-5191 ext. 23
Bu
scenic, and occasionally challenging, secondary road tour. Sign in: 7-9am on July 17 – Veterans Memorial Assoc., 65 Lake Road East, Congers, NY. Pre-registered by June 30: $33; Day of event: $45. Includes self-guided tour directions, dinner Sat. night, free camping with swimming, entertainment, awards, prizes, breakfast Sunday and pin and patch. AMA Sanctioned. To download registration flyer and for more information please visit: www.ramapomc.org.
22-25 • MountainFest Motorcycle Rally, Morgantown, WV. 4-day pass includes access to all bands, attractions and entertainment. For details: www.wvmountainfest.com 23-25 • Carlisle Bike Fest is the Mid-Atlantic’s premier motorcycle event! Thousands of two-wheel fanatics will converge on the 102-acre Carlisle PA Fairgrounds for non-stop entertainment, an unbeatable motorcycle shopping experience, breathtaking and historic local rides, giveaways all weekend long and the chance to ride the latest models from manufacturers. The ride to the Carlisle PA Fairgrounds, located less than 200 miles from five metropolitan areas throughout the East Coast, is almost as much fun as the event itself. For more details: www.carsatcarlisle.com/ce/events/bikefest 28 • Vito’s Full Moon Cruise. Call for details or send email address for notification • fwspeeryamaha@aol.com • 973-778-6256 31 • Bergen Sport Cycle Bikini Bike Wash/Raffle. Noon to 4pm. FREE - donations welcome • 30 US Hwy 46 East, Lodi, NJ • www.bergensportcycle.com • 973-478-7711
www.OLDCLARKINN.com Marlinton, WV 1-800-849-4184
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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G R E AT P L A C E S Dual Sport Adventures Guided Instructional Tours
Lodging & Bike Packages Motorcycle Rentals
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in the Smoky Mountains www.GSMmotoRent.com Townsend, TN 865-448-6090 Plan your trip now for 2010
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WHAT YOU SEE?
THINK THAT YOUR AD WOULD LOOK GOOD HERE? SO DO WE! GIVE US A CALL OR EMAIL AND WE’LL MAKE IT HAPPEN. 973-948-4176 • EDITOR@BACKROADSUSA.COM AN INN OR RESTAURANT OWNER AND WANT TO BECOME A MEMBER OF OUR MOTO-INN PROGRAM, PLEASE CONTACT
US.
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
Page 57
G R E AT P L A C E S
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SLEEP - BACKROADS MOTO-INN MEMBERS
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MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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BACKROADS • MAY 2010
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MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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BACKROADS • MAY 2010
Page 61
or four California men, good will happens on an annual motorcycle ride around the western United States. What began as a yearly sightseeing trip developed an interesting twist: instead of spending their extra travel money on self-indulgent things, the riders use those dollars to help people that they happen to meet.
F
These four travelers come from different professions: Terry Helton is an airline crewman; Fred Reynolds has a barbershop; Hugh Seagreaves is a regional insurance manager; Perry Shoulders a machinist. Hugh and Fred had served as Angel Flight pilots, providing free air transportation for charitable medical needs. But it was Perry, following the intuition of his Native American ancestry, who put a name to two-wheeled philanthropy during a solo jaunt away from the pack...
SpiritSRpiidrie t
Ride
Spirit Ride
Spirit Ride words and images: Cameron Douglas
Page 62
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
On a hot September afternoon in 2005, a traveling man and his dog sit by the side of a road in southeastern Oregon. No cars have stopped since their last ride left them at this remote spot. It’s an inherent risk for hitchhikers, to be dropped off in the middle of nowhere when that’s where the driver lives. The dog pants heavily; and the man, who we shall call Steve, is concerned about his friend’s increasing thirst - and his own. Lizards scurry from rock to rock as heat pours off the gooey pavement. Mirages glimmer in the distance, and through one of them Steve sees something coming. His hopes fall when he recognizes it is only a single motorcycle, laden with gear. (L-R) FRED REYNOLDS, 2003 YAMAHA FJR1300; HUGH SEAGREAVES, 2006 BMW K1200S; TERRY HELTON, 2003 HAREY-DAVIDSON ROAD KING; PERRY SHOULDERS, 2003 HONDA GOLD WING.
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The red Honda Gold Wing slows to a halt and Perry Shoulders, a tall man wearing a tank top, jeans and a small helmet, puts the kickstand down. He walks over to Steve and speaks the words that have worked so many miracles since that day: “How can I help you?” Steve looks up, shielding his eyes against the sun. “I don’t know if you can. We really need a ride, but your bike’s all loaded up. Even if it wasn’t, I don’t think I could hang onto my dog.” Perry looks at his machine and nods in agreement. “You’re right. But there’s a little town about five miles back where I can get some things you need. It won’t take long.” He gets on the Honda, loops the bike around and disappears up the road. Perry returns with bottles of water, snacks and a ridiculous sombrero. “Here,” he says, handing the huge straw hat over to Steve. “That’ll keep the sun off your head.” Steve takes the hat and gives his dog a long drink of cool water. “Thanks, man.” “You’re welcome,” Perry says. “There’s one more thing I’d like to do. I’d like to pray for you.” “Uh-oh,” says Steve, “now you’re going religious on me.” Perry smiles. “No, just listen.” He gazes upward. “Father, this is one of your children and one of your creatures. Please send them a ride. Amen.” Steve chuckles a bit. “That’s it?” “That’s all I can do.” The two men shake hands and the rider departs. Steve watches him go, not quite sure what has happened, but grateful. PERRY SHOULDERS AT THE GRAND TETONS
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
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Perry reaches the next town and pulls in for fuel. About an hour has passed. Standing at the gas pump, he sees a truck coming; and on the passenger side of the cab is a dog sitting on a man’s lap. The man is wearing an absurd sombrero and a big, happy grin. At the day’s end, Perry tells his friends what happened. “I’ve been on a spirit ride,” he explains. “A what?” “Spirit ride,” Perry says again. “That guy and his dog back there, I gave them some help. It was amazing.” Since that day, the riders have rendered aid to dozens of human beings over thousands of miles of highway. Each year, they save their money so they can give it away. They have provided on-the-spot funding for meals, brake jobs, lodging, new tires, medical help and more. “We’re not rich people,” said Hugh Seagreaves, “but we can still give someone a little bit of enjoyment, give something to their lives.” Route 550 winds its two lanes through the rugged, aspen-filled Rockies of western Colorado. The intense blue sky hosts a few clouds, and at this altitude they seem to sit right on the mountaintops. A hawk cruises above Fred Reynolds as he refuels his Yamaha FJR1300 at a gas station near the Ridgway State Park. A gray Toyota sedan sits on the other side of the island with steam rising from the front. Two college students - an American man and a young woman from Portugal - peer under the hood, their faces fraught with worry. Fred asks, “How can I help you?” “I don’t know what’s wrong,” the young man replies. Fred offers his mechanical knowledge and takes a look. His eyes widen as he quickly spots the problem: a swollen, smoldering battery ready to explode on the next start-up. “You can’t drive this car,” he declares. “You’d better find a place to stay while somebody works on it.” The driver protests, saying their travel money is gone and they are due back at school. “You can’t drive this car until it’s fixed,” Fred insists. “But I can
help.” He pulls out a roll of bills - “Love Bullets,” he calls them and hands them to the young man, who stares at the money in awe. “There,” Fred tells him. “That should be enough for repairs, a motel and some food.” The young man is stunned. His pretty Portuguese companion, not sure what is taking place, recoils in fear that Fred wants to purchase her. The young man translates as Fred explains, “Look, you have a father, or uncle, or grandfather, right? He’s not here right now, but I am. And I just want to help you all I can.” The woman relaxes and smiles as Fred talks about his mission. The incredulous young man gets out his camcorder, saying, “Please, we want our friends to see you.” (L-R) PERRY SHOULDERS, TERRY HELTON, FRED REYNOLDS, HUGH SEAGREAVES. Back at his down-home barbershop in Pacific Grove, California, Fred Reynolds smiles as he recounts memories of Spirit Ride. His stories take you way out on the road to a place where the confines of city life scatter like sagebrush in the wind, and life boils down to a simple chance encounter. There’s a light in his eyes and warmth in his voice. “I’m just a spark plug in an internal compassion engine,” he says. “For me, the best moment is when someone shows up on my ‘radar,’ and I know there’s a chance to help them just a little ways down the road.”
The Perfect End to the Perfect Ride
in historic milford pennsylvania
Serving Breakfast 6am - 8am
Lunch Dinner until 10pm
7 days a week
Fully renovated rooms and suites come for the food stay for the night
The Tom Quick Inn
A Fusion of Slow Food, Fiery Nights, Warm Hospitality & Rich History
411 Broad St • Milford, PA 570-409-1000 • www.thetomquickinn.com
Specializing in Ducati, BMW, MV Agusta, Triumph and Aprilia Service • Repairs • Suspension upgrades and engine performance Give us a call or stop on by 41 Ballard Rd • Middletown, NY www.europeancycleservices.com 845-725-7707
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
Page 64
P RODUCT R EVIEW
MICATECH PILOT CASES
“We make a strong case for adventure touring” says Micatech. Truth in advertising for this product is right on. Take seasoned world traveling motorcyclists Bob and Sue from RoGo Corporation which, according to their website, is a metal stamping and fabrication shop, add a passion for motorcycling and you see how some of the finest motorcycling luggage could find its way onto motorbikes around the globe. Micatech is handcrafted and manufactured in New Hampshire where old world craftsmanship and Yankee ingenuity are still found today. Richard Ford
The luggage is designed for adventure touring motorcycles, favoring BMW with some options for Suzuki, Kawasaki and Triumph. Check the website for their latest offerings and to see what fits your horse. If in doubt, do not hesitate to talk to the folks at Micatech as they will help guide you in making the choice that is right for you. How cool is that to be able to talk directly to the builders of these fine touring cases? You will notice that they have 3 stock colors of durable powder coat. Further, Bob tells me they will do custom
colors by special request. Can you name another company that will do custom color cases? No I did not think so. I chose the black cases for my BMW GS and they are handsome looking. Once my order was placed, I took delivery within a couple of weeks. The first thing you will notice is the way the product is shipped in protective cartons with all instructions and fasteners clearly marked. This will add confidence that you made the right choice with Micatech cases. The instructions suggest average fit up to be about an hour and a half which is about spot on. Add another half hour once the luggage is on to go back and tighten up all
fasteners and then use thread locker, which is recommended. I would recommend laying out all parts, fasteners and taking the time to read all instructions. Then follow the fitment of all fasteners as per the instructions. This will ease in the installation of the mounts as you will have a good idea of how everything comes together. Having installed a lot of cases and after market “farkles” over the years and miles, this install is straightforward with complete instructions and photographs to guide you.
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BACKROADS • MAY 2010
Speaking of the mounts, I selected the “Pilot Cases” which arrived with a clever mounting system that blends in with the bike when riding without the cases. In my opinion this is a nice feature as there are some butt ugly case mounts out there. With the Pilot cases they have allowed for a cut out for the exhaust and you lose very little space inside. A small compromise compared to the hassle of lowering your exhaust. Micatech also offers custom fit canvas bags to fit inside the cases to be used to transport your luggage. The bags come in various sizes which give you packing options. It is nice to have custom bags that you know will fit the cases. I highly recommend adding this to you order. This allows dirty laundry in one canvas bag and clean stuff in another, you get the idea.
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of the day you have to remove your stuff to get in to the top loading cases. This problem is solved with the Micatech side loading luggage. This is a real plus at the end of the road when you want easy access to your luggage. Another feature worth mentioning is the support bracket. This device locks in between both cases providing no movement or sway. In the event of a mishap, this luggage will survive. Okay, I am ready to try this luggage out and see if it performs as well as it looks. I know, I believe I will head to Mexico for some tacos. A 7000 mile roundtrip excursion should, pardon the pun, make my case. Well I am back from Mexico and we have a winner here! Through rain, hail, dust storms and even snow, the cases kept all contents safe and dry. There was even an impromptu attack by a burro at a rest stop, but that is another story. So if your taste in motorcycles is toward adventurer touring and you want the finest in luggage, you should put Micatech at the top of your list. Call Bob or Sue after looking at their website and let them explain how craftsmanship is still alive and well. Ride safe and ride often. For more information or to order yours go to www.micatech.net or call 888-464-6494.
Micatech also offers top cases in 3 sizes. Small, medium and ‘Honey bring the kitchen sink.’ I chose the medium as it was a good choice and looks smart on the motorcycle. I would suggest the Pack Rack which allows mounting for solo or 2 up riding. You have a choice when you receive the rack as to where to place it. The Micatech website does a great job showing you photos of customers’ bikes and the different options for mounting. The top cases all install with 4 quick release fasteners for easy removal. Once the top case is removed you can use the Rack Pack for a duffle or camping gear, yeah it is very versatile. Of course all luggage is lockable and will arrive all keyed alike. The Micatech luggage is side-loading with the compartment leaving a generous lip and deep well so your contents will not fall out. I find this feature helpful as most trips have me strapping on a bag or camping gear that extends over the luggage. From past experience having top loading means at the end
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MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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C YCLE S IDEBAR
ROCK RIVER ARTISTS PLAN 18TH ANNUAL STUDIO TOUR
While city-dwellers and suburbanites swelter through a long July, nature reaches its full flush in Southern Vermont. And so does the art scene. The Rock River Artists open their homes, gardens and studios to visitors for the 18th year in a row from 10 to 6 Saturday and Sunday, July 17 and 18. The self-guided tour begins with a group exhibit at the historic Old Schoolhouse, at Dover and Augur Hole Roads in South Newfane, where visitors can also pick up a map of studios to help them plan their weekend. For some, the phrase “art scene” recalls dry crackers and even dryer conversations washed down politely with Perrier from a paper cup. But not here. These 18 professional artists, most of whom will open their studios to visitors in July, have had a lifetime’s worth of solo shows and are featured in museum collections from Manhattan to Chicago to Portland and abroad. But visiting them one-on-one at your own pace in their own homes is unlike any other artistic encounter you’ll ever have. “This tour is unique because it’s so intimate,” said Roger Sandes, the tour’s longtime coordinator. “Nothing could be more different from a gallery opening or a museum visit. We have successful careers as artists, but we are just regular people, living our lives and doing our work. Our visitors say that talking to the artists and watching them work really brings the art to life.” Many studios feature demonstrations - like Mystic Metallurgy, where Rich Gillis bends steel to his will, creating delicate curves, coils and tendrils
in a medium not usually known for its sympathy with natural forms. Visitors can watch Richard Foye make luminous raku pots, a perfectly choreographed display of the aesthetic uses of smoke and fire. Painter Leonard Ragouzeos shows his technique of brushing India ink onto synthetic paper to create larger-than-life portraits and still life paintings. Whether you like photography, pottery, painting, fabric arts, prints, fine cabinetry, sculpture or something else altogether, the Rock River Artists Tour has something you will enjoy. And the countryside almost rivals the art. Brooks still take their natural courses; trees still stand; and old covered bridges, grange halls, barns and churches are still very much in use. In a state where billboards are illegal and there are more miles of dirt road than paved, every route is a scenic route. If there is one drawback to the tour, it’s that even though the artists all live within a ten-mile radius, one weekend is not usually enough time to drink it all in. Most visitors return year after year to visit their favorite artists and see the work of someone new as well. “The pace here is slower, the scenery is refreshing, and the variety of artistic styles concentrated in such a small area is quite rare,” said Sandes. “Rock River is a different kind of getaway.” For more information about the Rock River Artists, including directions, maps and nearby food and accommodations, visit www.RockRiverArtists.com.
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BACKROADS • MAY 2010
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THE LEGENDS HARLEY-DAVIDSON STAFFla
P RODUCT S POTLIGHT
TWISTED THROTTLE KEEPS YOUR V-STROM STRONG
Twisted Throttle has released an updated skidplate for the popular Suzuki DL650 V-Strom in a trick new 2-tone black and silver finish, as well as Rally Style Crashbars/Engine Guards. SW-Motech has completely revamped the style and construction of this plate with a few noticeable improvements. The new design features a 4mm-thick baseplate and 3mm-thick black powder-coated sideplates which overlap at the seams to provide 7mm-thick rails for added strength and stability. A redesigned rear mounting bracket is now
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BLACK LABEL CHOPPERS www.4BLC.com • 973-989-4252 228 E. Blackwell Street • Dover, NJ recessed to prevent damage to screw heads when sliding over rocks. The skidplate has a single pre-drilled hole in the bottom so that the oil drain plug bolt can be accessed without removing the skidplate. Only two screws need to be removed to allow the plate to pivot forward so you can access the oil filter. Installation of the SW-Motech skidplate requires previous installation of crashbars, which are sold separately. Fit and finish is outstanding, and all necessary mounting hardware and instructions are included. Protect that Suzuki for just $219.99. Fully revamped, the new Rally Style CrashbarsEngine Guards feature a thicker tubing diameter than previous models (1” vs. 7/8”), extend higher up on the plastics for more direct impact protection, and are fully compatible with the SW-Motech aluminum skidplate for the ‘Strom. Riders can also choose to install optional footpeg clamps for mounting highway pegs in a number of comfortable positions. As with many Motech products, the crashbars are finished with a heavy-duty black powdercoating and are designed tightly along the lines of the bike for an integrated look while still providing excellent crash protection. Fit and finish is outstanding, and all necessary mounting hardware and instructions are included. They list for just $159.99. For more information or to order either of these fine products, log onto www.twistedthrottle.com.
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MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
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t was one of those sparkling late summer days and I fired up the bike and headed to New Hampshire. There, high in the White Mountains I saw the 6,288 foot high summit of Mount Washington and I wondered what the view was like from the top. It turns out people have been asking the same question for over 150 years. After a thoroughly enjoyable ride, I arrived at the base of the Mount Washington Auto Road in Pinkham Notch. Just before the toll house was a sign that read “Attention: The Mount Washington Auto Road is a steep, narrow mountain road without guardrails. If you have a fear of heights, you may not appreciate this driving experience. Guided tours are available”. That sounds like my kind of road and I happily forked over the $14.00 toll for the bike and myself. They told me the speed limit was 20, there was no passing and gave me a small motorcycle-sized bumper sticker that said “This Bike Climbed Mount Washington.”
ain t n u o M e h t f po o T e h To T words and images: Dan Bisbee
ROAD
TRIP
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
were watermelon-sized rocks just below the surface pushing and stretching the pavement without actually breaking through the roadway. I bounced over a few of these submerged melons before learning to read the road surface and swerve around most of them.
I dropped the bike in gear and headed off, trying to stay below the posted speed limit until I was out of sight of the toll house. The lower half of the road was fairly uneventful, a nice if somewhat narrow road through the woods. The pavement was in good condition but there
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The trees gradually got shorter until I crossed the timberline. The only vegetation beyond here was moss and some juniperlike bushes poking between the rocks. It was somewhere around here where the pavement ended and the road continued on as a dirt track. This was actually preferable to the previous melonpocked pavement. The road snaked up the SINCE THE PENNING OF THIS side of the mountain STORY, THE HIGH WIND and around another RECORD HAS BEEN GIVEN corner and the paveTO AUSTRALIA AT 253 MPH. ment started again. The higher I climbed the less vegetation there was. Aside from some yellowish lichen around the rocks, I could have been on the moon. The rocks were right there, just over the white line. And just past the rocks, the mountainside dropped away. Take a wrong turn here and you won’t stop for a long time. That 20 mph speed limit suddenly seemed reasonable. Some of the oncoming car drivers were white-knuckling the steering wheel. Around one final curve, I could see the summit. We had made it. The bike may have earned the bumper sticker but I felt like I should receive some of the credit. I parked and admired the spectacular view. They call this place “Home of the World’s Worst Weather” but this was one of those rare days where there were just a few puffy clouds around and the wind was practically non-existent. I left the parking lot and headed
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up top to the visitors center. Climbing the stairs, I quickly became winded as the air was a bit thinner here than it was at the base station 4700 feet below me.
MAY 2010 • BACKROADS
The second building was the Tip Top House, built in the 1840s. In those days, well-to-do travelers summered in the White Mountains and a popular day excursion was to climb to the top of the mountain and have lunch. All the construction material as well as the food and drink were carried up my laborers. The Tip Top House served food and drink and also offered a few rooms for guests wishing to spend the night. At today’s prices, a room would cost the equivalent of $2000.00. Now, it’s a museum. Right beside the Tip Top House was a pile of rocks with a sign indicating the actual summit. I handed my camera to my new friend Joshua on a CBR 600 from Toronto and he snapped the obligatory photo. As I looked out it was hard to fathom that I was standing at the highest point of land for over 1000 miles in any direction. The view was incredible.
On the summit, three buildings open to the public. The first building I encountered was the old Stage Company House. In the 1930s the building also housed a weather observatory. This was where they recorded a wind speed of 231 miles an hour, the highest ever recorded by man. That may be why the building was chained down.
The final building on the summit was the Sherman Adams Summit Building. Built in 1979, it houses amenities for the present day guests including a snack bar and gift shop. Those guests arrive by one of three ways: By the auto road, by hiking or by the Cog Railroad. Most people come up by the Auto Road. It bills itself as America’s oldest manmade attraction. Construction began in 1854 and the road officially opened to the summit in 1861. Of course, this was in the days before the automobile and people wishing to reach the summit were driven in a horse drawn stage coach. Business increased on the road until 1869 with the completion of the Cog Railroad up the western flank of the mountain. Business
BACKROADS • MAY 2010
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diminished as the railroad was faster and more luxurious. This lasted until 1899 when Amzi Lorenzo Barber drove his steam powered Locomobile to the summit. The first gasoline powered cars reached the peak in 1902. As cars became more popular, the auto road regained its popularity and now about 45,000 people drive the 7.6 mile long auto road each year. It is steep with an average grade of about 12% . During a car race in 1998, Frank Sprongl drove his Audi Quattro to the top in 6 minutes and 41.99 seconds. While I was admiring the view from the observation deck above the visitor center, I watched the Cog Railroad come up. Just as it has for 140 years, a locomotive was pushing a single passenger car up the mountain. Now, though, bio diesel powered the locomotive. While this may be faster, more economical, and better for the environment, it lacks some of the excitement of the old steam-powered locomotives that burned a ton of coal and 1000 gallons of water as they chuffed up the mountain. They still run one steam engine up the mountainside in the morning. People have been hiking to the summit since at least the 1840s and now, the Appalachian Trail crosses the peak on its way from Georgia to Maine. Lots of folks take a day and hike to the summit just like people did 150 years ago. Only today they wear hiking boots and backpacks and carry aluminum and graphite hiking poles. After soaking up as much of the view as I could, it was time to head back down. Descending required a bit more concentration than going up. There were numerous turnouts with signs telling drivers to stop and let their brakes cool. I left my bike in first gear for almost all of the descent and only touched my brakes when I caught up to a car. Apparently that driver did not understand what the sign “Use Low Gear” meant and rode his brakes almost constantly. The stench of burning brakes filled my nostrils after following the car for a mile or so and I pulled in to one of the turn outs to put some distance between us. Back at the base, I rode across the street to the Glen House and Red Barn Museum. The museum houses a collection of vehicles that have been used for guided tours up the mountain. An original stage coach, a Pierce Arrow Touring Sedan up through the present day vans. As I sat looking up at the mountain, I visualized visitors a century and a half ago asking the same question I had asked earlier. “I wonder what the view is like from the top?” I imagine their answer was the same as mine: Awesome.