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W H AT ’ S I N S I D E
BACKROADS • MAY 2021
MONTHLY COLUMNS
Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure
FREE WHEELIN’ ........................................ 4 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ................................... 5
Publishers Contributors
ON THE MARK .......................................... 6 BACKLASH ............................................... 7
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THOUGHT FROM THE ROAD ..................... 8 INDUSTRY INFOBITES ............................... 9 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ......... 10
Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil Mark Byers, Ken Condon, Jaime Cruz, Frank Palmeri, Dr. Seymour O’Life
Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822
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BIG CITY GETAWAY ................................. 13 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ............................... 17 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA .......................... 19 INSIDE SCOOP ....................................... 22 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE .................... 24 UPCOMING EVENTS ............................... 48
FEATURES SPRING FLING ........................................ 25 ROAD OF ANGELS .................................. 34 THE PERFECT RIDE ................................ 46
PRODUCT REVIEWS ALPINESTAR TECH AIR 5 ........................ 33 DENALI QUICK-GRIP PHONE MOUNT ..... 43
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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2021. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.
BACKROADS • MAY 2021
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BACKROADS • MAY 2021
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FR E E W H E EL I N’ BRIAN RATHJEN
All the Children Sing... One year ago, I started my Free Wheelin’ with Tina Turner’s ‘We Don’t Need Another Hero’, a big hit from the Mad Max film ‘Beyond Thunderdome’. We don’t need another hero We don’t need to know the way home All we want is life beyond the Thunderdome I recall saying even Superman was staying home. So here we are one whole trip around the sun later; where we thought this was a short-lived and terribly bad time, it has dragged on, and on, and on… The checkered flag is always being pushed back more and more laps. When I wrote last month’s words we were buried deep in snow. This month we have already had Indian Spring. I truly hope all is bursting forth and wonderful across the region right now and we are all making up lost miles from last year. But, I want to address a little bit about last year. It all went on way too long.
And, being happy Americans and good men and women, we went along with it, even when things got very messy. Indeed, what a mess on so many fronts. Out of the ruins Out from the wreckage Can’t make the same mistake this time What started as a medical and scientific issue was allowed, hell encouraged, to become a social issue and although we sadly lost friends, both literally and figuratively, I have found that even those who cannot seem to agree on everything else in the world had motorcycles to lift them up and help them ride through. Together. Motorcycles and motorcycle riding – we owned the “social” part of social distancing way before Patient Zero strolled out the door of a lab in Wuhan. Although I know many of you barely got out last year, there were still many more who rode and rode a lot. So many felt enormous pressure from family and loved ones, and I truly get that, and with that many had to make tough and uncomfortable calls. But as Shira said many times, ‘Do Not Let the Fear of What Could Happen – Make Nothing Happen!’ And I wonder when we Are ever gonna change, change Living under the fear ‘Til nothing else remains The cover of last year’s May edition came about as we were going to press. Shira woke up that day and pulled the issue from the printer, putting together a cover that carried some 35 images and featured over 100 of our friends and fellow riders who we have been blessed to have in our lives over the last quarter of a century. The riders that we have met, rode with, have become a part of the extended Backroads family. Would anything ever be the same? Would we ever be able to see and touch, hug and smile with our loved ones and friends? Would we ever go riding as we had in the past? As that May issue hit the shops and mailboxes the Dragon of Wuhan came to visit Backroads Central and, after a family crushing month, Shira and I came back out when the dust had settled and we got out and rode. Always Plan B sort of people we put together several weekend getaways and rallies and slowly, tentatively riders began to return. Surprisingly so many new riders joined us. For us when 2020 was over, even with the late start, we had ridden in 26 of our 50 states. What… in the middle of a Pandemic? Oh sure, you betcha. As we have said umpteen times, we ALWAYS did what was expected of us. But, Lebanon, Kansas was not Vail, Colorado and although just 500 miles separate these two towns they might as well have been in two different galaxies. We always followed the local’s lead… All the time. So, what do we do with our lives? We leave only a mark Will our story shine like a light Or end in the dark Is it all or nothing? But here we are a full lap of the sun later and Spring is here, the season is upon us, and it is time to choose how you will approach riding and traveling in 2021. In May of last year, we thought we didn’t need another hero. This year I think we desperately need them. See you on the road! ,
BACKROADS • MAY 2021
W H AT C H AT HI NK I N ’ SHIRA KAMIL
Dawn of a New Day The saying goes, ‘You can’t teach an old dog new tricks.’ In these times, if you’re an old dog and can’t learn a new trick or two, you better retire to the doghouse, or at least to a sunny spot in the back yard. This point was made abundantly clear when Backroads Art Department (me) had an upgrade to its Macintosh Operating System. Our amazingly talented and super smart IT folks at PCPS in Boonton, NJ have been telling me for quite a while that I was on borrowed time so, kicking and screaming, I was brought into the 21st century. My plate was quite full now, as there was new software to learn, a new website to be built and a scrambling to find and convert all the necessary ‘stuff’ needed to make this magazine look the way it should. On one hand, it was an opportunity to shake out the cobwebs of 26 years of complacency and bring on a fresh, new look. On the other hand, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Time will tell and, with the weather springing up, more time will be spent on the road than in front of a computer. Speaking of programs, computers and headaches, during this conversion the newest version of Garmin Basecamp needed to be installed. I know that many folks have had issues with Basecamp and even more have migrated to using their phones as GPS devices with Rever or other mapping programs. While I have not had too many problems with Basecamp and it seems to have worked very well for our Backroads Rally routes, this last update doesn’t seem to be playing very well with this Mac operating system. I hate
Page 5 to have to jump ship and try to find something else that will work with my Zumo, as I truly don’t feel comfortable strapping my very expensive phone to any sort of mounting system, let alone let it sit in the rain (even though I have a Lifeproof case) which certainly will happen (for those who have been on Backroads rallies, you all know that rain happens). One nice thing that came out of the mayhem that is now my work station was the development (and continuing development) of our web site. With the incoming upgrades, out went the web building software so we have migrated to, what we feel is, a much sleeker and user-friendly site. We hope to have it fully operational by the time you are reading this and we certainly look forward to your comments (but only if they are complimentary – only kidding, sort of). As I sit here writing it is April 1. The day started out gray with snow flurries and at 1:10 pm the sun emerged on Opening Day of 2021 baseball. Brian and I are decked out in our Mets gear looking forward to a stellar season, as Mr. Cohen has seen fit to open the purse strings to secure some great talent for the team. Unfortunately, the universe, or at least the pandemic universe, has other plans as the Mets are not able to play their opening game against the Nationals due to contact tracing on Washington’s part. Being a Mets fan, I am used to disappointment but I am looking forward to the dawn of a new day and getting passed all these cancellations and postponements. Speaking of moving on in scheduling, the calendar will look a little different than it has for the past 37 years as Americade is moving its gathering to the cooler and more colorful month of September. While Lake George is a beautiful place in the early summer, autumn will bring the changing leaves and cooler temperatures. Americade is not the only event to move a bit later in the year; BMW Riders Association has decided to switch their national rally, wonderfully named the ‘Game of Roads’, to later in August in the Continued on Page 47
BACKROADS • MAY 2021
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O N T H E MAR K MARK BYERS
Spectators, or Voyeurs “The public is in need of experiences that are not just voyeuristic. Our society is in a mess of losing its spiritual centre.” Marina Abramovic One of the things I have been able to do for bicycle races as a motorcyclist is to officiate or serve as a marshal and carry other officials, still and video photographers, VIPs, and anything else they want me to do. In 20 years, I have seen a shift in the way people watch bicycle racing - one I believe is analogous to the way people have changed the way they live. When I started, I’d pilot my moto between the fences holding back throngs of racing fans and, in the rare moments I had to observe the crowd, I was struck by a sea of faces: shouting, screaming, mostly-happy, observant, involved faces not only watching the event, but being a visceral, vocal part of it. Going up the Manayunk “Wall” in Philadelphia during a race was one of the most thrilling spectacles in which I ever participated. It wasn’t just a wall of a climb, it was a wall of sound and smell (mostly beer) that confined me as I crawled up the climb behind the cyclists, slipping the clutch, mirrors rapping knuckles of spectators leaning into the course. In the Tours of California and Colorado, it was also on the climbs, most of which were bereft of crowd control, where I got to experience the amazing, sometimes terrifying and claustrophobic wall of fans that parted at the last minute just enough to squeeze the moto (and hopefully the racers) through a narrow gap between humans. I felt like a moto Moses, parting a Red Sea of humanity. Then, things started to change. Like a lot of changes, it came on slowly, almost imperceptibly, until one day it was overwhelming in its prevalence. One day, instead of looking out and seeing a sea of faces, I looked out and saw a sea of…phones. People had almost universally abandoned simply viewing the races and were recording them. Much to the chagrin of the pro photographers, cell phones included cameras capable of both stills and video
that could capture fairly high-resolution images. At one race, there were so many people in the press area that organizers had to make an announcement that if you could make a call or send an email on your “camera,” you had to leave the photo pit. One time, a team manager ran out to capture the dramatic finish with his phone…and ruined the “money shot” for the pro photogs. Being recorded all the time is disconcerting. Imagine having several hours a day where thousands of cameras are trained on you and if you pick your nose, it could become fodder for someone’s viral video. The other disconcerting thing, and you know this from the news, is that a video clip doesn’t always capture the whole event. One of our motos was nearly sued because a spectator’s phone captured the aftermath of an event that appeared to be something it wasn’t. One day, I said to one of the organizers, “Welcome to the Truman Show,” referring to the movie where every moment of a man’s life is broadcast on TV. Even more distressing is the distant, voyeuristic frame in which it places the spectators. Instead of being actively involved in the action, they’re passively recording it. Some idiots even go so far as to “selfie” as the race approaches them from behind, not realizing how close the action really is. I’ve seen pro video guys standing on the back of motos have to slap cell phones out of the way of their TV cameras. It’s not enough to watch anymore, you have to RECORD! What’s the saying? “Photos or it never happened.” I liken it to being a wedding photographer: he’s there, but not really a PART of the event, just a documenter. He’s not dancing: he’s filming. Personally, I’d rather see happy, cheering, screaming faces alongside the race course than the cold backs of so many cell phones. And, if they’re not filming with it, they’re probably talking or texting or tweeting or one of the other innumerable tasks that can be done. We’re all guilty. Maybe we ought to put down the phones and see the event through our OWN eyes, dance the dances, and live in the moment, not in the record of the moment. Participation only requires it to be stored in the “cloud” of our memory. ,
BACKROADS • MAY 2021
BACKLASH Brian & Shira, Congratulations on sticking to your guns with some of the comments you get on your opinions with the current world situation. I am not sure how some are surviving these days with such thin skin. You seem to have struck a nerve! My wife and I have been social distancing for decades and don’t group ride because of people like these. We stop, go and stay when and where we want because We Are Not All In This together! People like these are the ones who tell you “They said” or “Somebody Said”. I still haven’t found out who “They” or “Somebody” are and don’t really care to. I just wanted to let you know that you’re not alone in your way of thinking. Shira said it best… “You do you, and I’ll do me.” We love your magazine, keep them coming and stay safe and healthy! Warren & Diane Koenig • Andover Township, NJ Hi Backroads, I absolutely loved your “Best & Worst of Backroads 2020 piece in January 2021’s edition of your excellent magazine. In the “Big City Getaway” section, I totally agree with your choice for 1st place in the Van Sant Airport in Erwinna, PA. As a Yardley, Bucks County resident and former student pilot (with a paltry 12 hours in my log book), that quaint grass runway airfield is one of my favorite spots for a nice ride “on and Sunday”. I also wanted to bring to your readers’ attention an issue regarding your First Runner Up in the same category, i.e. the New England Motorcycle Museum. Ken Kaplan has put his heart, soul and almost every dime he’s ever had into turning that two-century old mill into one of the best motorcycle museums on the east coast, if not the country. Unfortunately, the harsh NE winter has taken its toll on parts of the building. Sections of the roof have been breached. Mr. Kaplan has created a go-fund-me account for people that may want to help him effect repairs, and anyone who donates gets free tickets to the museum as a “thank you” from Ken. The link below takes you
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Letters to the Editor directly to his go fund me page. charity.gofundme.com/o/en/campaign/roofs-are-breached-we-need-help/ newenglandmotorcyclemuseuminc Thanks for sharing and looking forward to seeing you both this spring! Best regards, Bill Denton Hi Brian and Shira, Thank you for continuing to produce a great motorcycling magazine based in our North Eastern region of the country. At a time when West Coast magazines are merging, going digital or simply ceasing to exist, I know you must be facing the same challenges. And thank you for continuing to produce a printed magazine. I may be the last of a dying breed, but digital just doesn’t have the same appeal. Digital is great for short, quick bits, but reading anything more than a paragraph or two on the computer becomes a chore, while reading your physical magazine is a delight. I have been a member of the New London Motorcycle Club for the past decade. We are one of the largest and oldest (est. 1939) clubs in Connecticut • newlondonmotorcycleclub.com Our signature event is the Blessing at the Beach, typically held at Ocean Beach Park in New London, CT on the second Sunday in April. This year’s venue will be at the Waterfront Park in downtown New London, CT on Sunday, May 23rd and will have a number of food trucks as well as being located right off the city’s strip of restaurants. The event features at least a dozen vendors, a people’s choice bike show, live music (Branded: Country that Rocks is this year’s band) and of course a blessing as the riders exit the event. Proceeds are used to maintain our clubhouse and donated to the Waterford Country School and the New London Covenant Shelter. Sincerely, Vince Sileo • NLMC Secretary and Backroads subscriber
BACKROADS • MAY 2021
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THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD Are You Ready? There is no doubt we passionate motorcyclists are an aging population. Go to any dealership or motorcycle event and notice all the big bellies, gray hair, and scraggly beards. And that’s just the women! Kidding aside, all is not lost. Every now and then a young person will look up from their phone long enough to notice that motorcycles exist and might even be a lot of fun. Those of us who love motorcycles need to be prepared for when a niece, nephew, neighbor, or co-worker ask us about the wonderful world of motorcycling. Are you prepared to answer those questions? If you want to help get some new blood into our favorite sport/hobby/vocation, you need to be. Start by visiting your state’s DMV website to find out what it takes to get a license. In New York, where I live, once you get your learners permit you can avoid a road test by taking the Motorcycle Safety Foundation Beginning Rider Course. This is a great way to get started in motorcycling; you may even get an insurance discount for taking the course as well (never hurts to ask). Find out what it takes to get a motorcycle license in your state so you’ll be ready to answer this very important question. Then be ready to describe the variety that the world of motorcycling offers: - Commuting to work by motorcycle can make a previously tedious part of the day come alive. - Sport touring is an exciting way to travel or vacation. - Track days can really get the adrenaline flowing. - There’s nothing like spending some time in the woods with a dirt bike. - Enduros and Moto Giro events are a real test of riding ability. - Endurance riding is great for when you’d rather be in the saddle than home
Frank Palmeri watching “Wheel of Fortune.” - Motorcycle clubs and rallies offer camaraderie with like-minded souls. - There is nothing cooler that traveling with a dog wearing goggles in a sidecar. - Motorcycle wrenching and restoration is a fun way to put those all those tools to good use. - There is always a need for flowing verse about and beautiful photos of motorcycles. - Or just take off for a couple of months on a bike to discover your country and yourself. Being prepared to tell people all the wonderful things you can do in the world of motorcycling is the first step in hopefully getting them on board. Be honest with them up front about what it takes to survive on a motorcycle in a world filled with distracted drivers, wet leaves in corners, and horny or hungry deer. Make sure they understand that to be safe and survive on a motorcycle: - The bike must be in great shape. - You must be in great shape (don’t ride when you’re sick). - Wear the proper gear, including good boots, jacket, pants, gloves, and helmet. - Alcohol and motorcycle riding don’t mix. - Learn to develop a sixth-sense – a hyper sense of alertness - for your place on the road, since you don’t have a cage around you and air bags like in a car. The world of motorcycling is big enough for young folks from all walks of life to find something to enjoy if they’ll only try. Being prepared to answer their questions, and to enthusiastically tell them just what a sheer joy motorcycle riding is, is something we need to be ready for at all times if we want to help make motorcycling grow and prosper. Let’s make sure we’re ready to talk about our passion passionately when we get the chance. ,
BACKROADS • MAY 2021
INDUSTRY INFOBITES
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News from the Inside
MV AGUSTA ACQUIRES RARE RACING MODEL
MSF BOARD OF TRUSTEES SELECTS NEW CHAIR AND OFFICERS
MV Agusta has recently acquired a 1950’s CSS 175/204cc racing model of the brand and is currently restoring it to its original condition. The extraordinary find was possible thanks toCatawiki, the popular online auction site specialized in rare and unique objects. The bike was originally purchased in 1958 by British rider and collector Chris Newport. The seller was one Stanley Hailwood, father to motorcycling legend “Mike the Bike” Hailwood, 9-time world champion and one of MV Agusta’s most acclaimed riders. Newport actually rode it in amateur races for a few years, in particular at Brands Hatch, before leaving it aside and eventually selling it. In 2012 it resurfaced in Holland and was recently put up for auction on Catawiki The gem was spotted by a member of MV Agusta management, who promptly secured the precious specimen. Originally a 175cc, then modified into a 204cc, this bike is certainly an important piece of motorcycling history. To preserve its authenticity, in addition to the engine, most of the original parts had been kept, such as the TT Amal carburetors, here in a double racing configuration, the “green spot” Avon tires, the Smiths racing rev counter, or the great looking megaphone exhaust.
Croft Long of Kawasaki Motors. Corp., U.S.A. is the new chair of the MSF Board of Trustees. Robert Heibron of American Honda Motor Co., Inc. was elected vice-chair, and Jason Tolleson of HarleyDavidson Motor Company, Inc. was elected secretary/ treasurer. Trustee and former chair Joe Dagley was been replace by Mat potter as the Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. trustee. “My expectations for MSF is to grow and share the excitement and joy of motorcycling by instilling confidence and competence in new riders, and to motivate experienced riders to brush up on skills through advanced rider training,” said Long, senior product manager, corporate strategic planning, with Kawasaki. “I pledge to place as our number one priority the wants and needs of motorcyclists seeking state-ofthe-art MSF rider training – developed by the professional MSF team in close partnership with research experts, supported by training centers and, most importantly, delivered by enthusiastic RiderCoaches every day on ranges across the US.”
80TH DAYTONA BIKE WEEK A HISTORICALLY SUCCESSFUL RALLY As businesses are still recovering from a devastating year of COVID shutdowns and lower capacity restrictions, Daytona Beach is coming off one of its best Bike Weeks ever. Bob Davis, president of the Lodging and Hospitality Association in Volusia County, said it was one of the best Bike Weeks they’ve ever had for revenue, rating it “in the top 5” in event history. Billing itself as “The World’s Largest Motorcycle Event,” Daytona Bike Week celebrated 80 years this March, with crowds coming in a steady stream throughout the ten days of festivities. Continued on Page 47
BACKROADS • MAY 2021
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Thisilldous Eatery presents
GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN
131 VT-100, West Dover, VT 05356 802-464-9422 • www.valleyviewsaloon.com As you know we are big fans of Vermont. The southern part in particular is easy to reach and offers us a starting point to bounce around a great part of the United States. We like places that have been big backers and supporters of riders for a good deal of time. The Valley View Saloon has been doing just that - season after season. Former owner Adam Levine is one of us, a true rider. And new owners Shannon and Erika are sure to follow in his footstep. For us that makes a difference. We will rarely ride into this area and not stop at the Valley View Saloon. Comfortable, easy-going, and with a very friendly staff it has always worked for us – especially just being south of the Gray Ghost and Kitzhof Inns. For years now the Valley View has been doing a stellar job of keeping both locals and travelers fed and happy. But let’s talk a bit about this part of Southern Vermont. Although this state runs all the way to the border with Canada, we have found that the southern part of the Green Mountain State has superb riding. The famed Route 100, which runs some 217 miles through the state, does draw lots of travelers, but during the week, it and the little side roads that envelope it are pretty much free and clear. If you are a more adventurous rider Vermont has hundreds of miles of non-paved roads – from well-groomed that have some beautiful home alongside to two-track and
tasty places to take your bike
better (or worse) with moose, deer, and bear. The Puppy Dog Route runs from the bottom of the state to the Canadian border far to the north. It is intended for Dual Sport and ADV machines with a mixture of dirt and pavement riding, and has become a “must do” for many riders. You’ll find great museums, points of historical significance, and quite a bit of Dr. Seymour O’Life’s Mysterious America. But today we are looking for some serious chow and a great ambiance and we’ll find it at the Valley View Saloon. The menu seems to run the gambit with appetizers offering the usual Sticks and Fingers – but the Vegetable Dumplings are great and their homemade Meatballs superb. Indeed, the Valley View’s meatballs are becoming legendary. On the soupy side of things; the Creamy
BACKROADS • MAY 2021
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Tomato Cheddar is a great way to start and a bowl can be a meal by itself. For the Wing lovers out there the Valley View’s Wings rate way up there. Choose from Buffalo or Asian-Style. Of course, you will find several Burgers and for the Vegan Riders you can order up a Beyond Burger – made from peas, beets, potato, coconut oil and bamboo. Bamboo? The Valley View has ten different sandwiches including their great Chicken Reuben and Parmigiana. The Black Forest is to die for. Psycho Chicken… Qu’est-ce que c’est? David Byrne loves it. For the Philly Boys, you’ll feel right at home with their Philly Cheese Steak with roast beef or chicken. The menu can vary a bit and you never know when a great special will appear like Prime Rib French Dip sandwich served with mashed potatoes and gravy, au jus, and horsey sauce. If you are staying in the region remember Valley View’s motto - Good Eats, Drinks & Nightlife. Right now the Valley View’s Kitchen is open 12 to 8 Thursdays through Monday. Enjoy! ,
Fossil Farms 81 Fulton Street, Boonton, NJ 07005 973-917-3276 • www.fossilfarms.com As the weather warms and we begin those first day trips and longer overnights we will probably be firing up the grill for the first time in 2021 as well. Sure, you will do beef burgers and the standard American hot dogs – but how about doing something a bit different to get the taste buds up and working? We’d like to tell you about a place that offers some meats that you will never find in Shoprite or Wegmans. Welcome to Fossil Farms, in Boonton, New Jersey. They started as an Ostrich Farm back in 1997, so sustainably raised and responsibly harvested game meats are the foundation of Fossil Farms. These products are all incredibly wholesome and nutritious alternatives to conventionally raised meats and are compatible with many diets. Game meats are increasing in popularity as more people look to diversify their diets and eat products that sustain their health. We just like something different and delicious from time to time. Fossil Farms works with over 200 family farmers locally and around the country, so they do a superb job of supporting American farms and businesses. Located not far off Route 202, north of Boonton, at Fossil Farms Market and Kitchen you will find 100% all-natural, meats and game and homemade prepared foods. Fossil carries the highest quality locally raised chicken, pork, beef, game, and more. The animals they sell have NEVER been given hormones, antibiotics, or steroids - ever! They offer local fresh produce and dairy too. Continued on next page
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BACKROADS • MAY 2021 their incredible selection of Game and Exotic Meats; Bison, Elk, Venison, Rabbit, and Wild Boar. Oh, yes! On the poultry-side of the wild, you will find Duck, Goose, Guinea Hen, Pheasant, Quail, and Squab. But let’s go way off the American standard culinary map and give a try to their “Exotic Meats”. Ostrich and Imu? How about a good Antelope or Kangaroo steak? Have you ever tried Yak – we just did and it was superb. They even have Rattlesnake and Python. We’ll try anything. Camel? What!? Sorry, Shira - they are delicious. If this has your eyes wide and saying, “Oh, I don’t know about this,” remember that these foods are used commonly around the world in various types of cuisines, and Fossil Farms is excited to introduce them to their customers who are looking to take a walk on the wild side! Go for it! We must tell you that Fossil Farms meats are not cheap – but for what you get… The high-quality, consistency, and flavors and, as another Python named Monty would say “Something completely different.” When you get back home and do your own magic you will surely have a meal that you will brag about to your friend. See you at the farm! ,
On Saturdays, their culinary team offers samplings and hot food options as well as fully prepared meals to grab and go. Fossil Farms is your one-stopshop for all things different and delicious. But it is their game food we rode for. Think of Fossil Farms akin to the book by Maurice Sendak – Where the Wild things Are! Here are just some of what you can find here… Some of the prepared foods make it easy as they have Shrimp and Alligator Andouille Sausage, Alligator Gumbo, Wild Boar Bacon and Jambalaya with Rabbit. One special we spotted really caught our eye – Prawns and Clam Creole. Yummy! In the freezer, you will find our real impetus for heading to Fossil Farms,
BACKROADS • MAY 2021
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Frontline Eurosports presents
BIG CITY GETAWAY Mahwah Museum 201 Franklin Tpke, Mahwah, NJ 07430 201-512-0099 • Mahwahmuseum.org Open Wednesday + weekends 1-4pm Palisades has the rides, Palisades has the fun...Come On Over. I grew up in Cliffside Park, New Jersey, which sits on the Palisades cliffs across the Hudson River from Manhattan. It was a different time; a time when kids would spend all day outside riding bikes, exploring and generally just having fun. As long as we were back home for dinner, all was good in our world. Cliffside Park was a great place to grow up, but what made it even more special was that it was home to Palisades Amusement Park. Sadly, it closed down when I was only 11 years old, but until that point my friends and I spent many happy days in one of the most iconic amusement parks in the U.S.A. It started back in 1898 as a New Jersey picnic grove, which had a few tables and benches, refreshment concessions and a milliondollar view of Manhattan. The local trolley company promoted it to attract and increase weekend ridership. By 1908, the carousel was added along with some other rides, a Wild West show and many other attractions. The world’s largest outdoor salt water pool was added in 1913 and Palisades Amusement Park grew to rival Coney Island. Ride the coaster, get cool in the waves in the pool. You’ll have fun... so...Come On Over. I remember sneaking in to the Park, riding the Cyclone roller coaster and scaring ourselves silly in the various fun houses. All too soon (in my life, anyway), on September 12, 1971, the gates were closed to make way for the dreaded high rise condominiums.
daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind While the Cyclone was torn down and the scary clowns were packed away, one man had a vision. Former Park employee Joe Prisco set out to make a 1:12 scale model of the park as it would have looked in the mid-1930s. His estimated cost for the initial build was $40,000 and it utilized over 3,700
Page 14 light bulbs and 15 power transformers to illuminate the rides and attractions. After Joe’s death in 2006, the model fell into disrepair and obscurity but in 2018 Vince Gargiulo, Executive Director of the Palisades Amusement Park Historical Society, tracked it down and the Prisco family donated the remains of the model to the society. It has taken considerable time, patience and cost, but Gargiulo has brought it back to life, restoring – to date – 25 pieces including the Tunnel of Love, the World’s Largest Outdoor Salt Water Pool, the Ferris Wheel, the Carousel. The model is on view at the Mahwah Museum, along with tons of memorabilia and stories of the life of the Park, as well as great images of the hundreds of performers who graced the stages – from Benny Goodman to the Jackson Five and the Lovin’ Spoonful.
BACKROADS • MAY 2021 When you’re done taking a trip down memory lane, head to the lower level of the museum and marvel at the Donald Cooper four-level Model Railroad exhibit. Designed as a walk-in layout, the DCC powered, 28’ x 13’ HO Gauge gives you the experience of the sights and sounds of a real operating railroad. Donald Cooper, who worked for the Erie Railroad in Buffalo, NY as a yard inspector, constructed the tracks and electrical set up from 1990 to 1995, while his wife, Renee, worked on the buildings and people placement. Don passed away in 1998 and in 2006 Renee asked the museum if they’d like a ‘train set.’ The rest, as they say, is history. The display is four levels, has two main lines and a fully operational train yard, as well as a logging railroad and trolley line.
BACKROADS • MAY 2021 When I entered the room I was totally amazed at the size and detail. Peaking into the underground levels to see the subway line, watching the turntable of the rail yard and the precision of the running trains, you almost overlook the special features such as the Paterson Falls and the drive-in theater. There is also a static display of Jerome Margolis’ Lionel collection including the famous Santa Fe, red and silver ‘War-Bonnet’ F7 and Pennsylvania ‘Mountain’ steam locomotive. If you are a model train collector or aficionado, this exhibit will have you completely enthralled. The Mahwah Museum has several rotating exhibits throughout the year. During our visit we enjoyed A College Comes to Mahwah: Ramapo College, 1965-1975 detailing the birth and early years of Ramapo College and Revealed: Women’s Fight for the Right to Vote. Their other permanent exhibit is Les Paul in Mahwah, which Brian will detail as he is the musician in the house. While we were planning on an hour or so at the museum, we totally underestimated and completely enjoyed our hours spent there. I am sure that you will too. ~ Shira Kamil
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Mahwah Museum’s Les Paul Exhibit New Jersey has had its fair share of famous musicians, singers, and Rock & Rollers who call the state home. Bruce Springsteen, Jon Bon Jovi, Frank Sinatra, Whitney Houston, and we can still “Celebrate” a Mets victory with Kool & the Gang. But one of the most influential musicians who lived in the Garden State was Lester William Polsfuss, better known as Les Paul. Although Les was born in Wisconsin, he and his wife Mary Ford (also an ultra-talented musician), lived in the town of Mahwah, New Jersey. Known for his American jazz, country, and blues work as a guitarist and songwriter, he was also a luthier and inventor. He was one of the pioneers of the solid-body electric guitar, and his prototype, called the Log, served as inspiration for the Gibson Les Paul, one of the most famous guitars on the planet. A guitar sadly still we do not have…yet. So many prominent Rockers play a Les Paul guitar; Jimmy Page, Duane Allman, Billy Gibbons, Slash and so many others that the list would fill up this entire page. Les Paul was a major innovator, yet few know that one of Les Pauls’ early innovations was the Harmonica Neck Holder. Dylan and Young would not be who they are without this. But as popular as his namesake guitar is, in my mind, one of his greatest contributions to the music world was Multi-Track Recording, the layering of Sound on Sound! Without this, our music would have never been as complex and rich as it is today.
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To explain his multi-level sound during live performances, Les created the Les Pulverizer. His onstage gag became an actual black box remote control he attached to his guitar. The box allowed Les to access tape-recorded layers of songs as he and his wife Mary Ford performed the songs on stage. It was revolutionary and almost magically to the audience watching live. The Mahwah Museum has an ongoing display of some of Les Pauls’ guitars, including the renowned Pulverizer, and his original multi-track recording machines are on display. Paul’s “Recording Lathe” that he built and recorded his first hit song “Lover” in 1948 can be seen, right across from his Control Board and the “Sound on Sound Machine” and the first tape deck that was made by Ampex which was a gift from none other than crooner Bing Crosby. While our small group was there taking in both the Palisades Amusement Park Exhibit and the incredible Model Trains one flight below, I spent most of my time getting up close and personal with some of Les’ guitars. For a small donation to the museum ($25), I got to play a few of the great guitarist and inventor’s own personal guitars including the Pulverizer, that might be worth more than my house. It compares to when my friend Neale Bayley rode Rossi’s MotoGP Bike; he wrote, “Never in the field of human conflict has someone done so little with so much.” To take a seat while being handed these beautiful guitars to play was surely a treat and, if you are a guitarist, you should contact the museum and arrange for a wonderful opportunity to play some instruments of deep social and rock & roll history. ~ Brian Rathjen ,
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BACKROADS • MAY 2021
WE’RE OUTTA HERE Cassadaga Hotel 355 Cassadaga Rd, Lake Helen, FL 32744 386-228-2323 • www.hotelcassadaga.com/ On occasion, we have columns that collide and we have trouble placing a story where it needs to be. That is surely the case this month as the hotel we will feature and the town it is in would be just as comfortable in O’Life’s Mysterious America – but we think it’ll work just as well in this month’s We’re Outta Here! Welcome to Cassadaga, Florida… The Psychic Capital of the World! Although found in central Florida, the town gets its name from the state of New York – for it was here that the whole spiritualism trend of the late 1800s got its start. The Cassadaga Spiritualist Camp began circa 1875 when the Southern Cassadaga Spiritualist Camp Meeting Association was founded by George P. Colby, from Pikes, New York. Colby was what is called a Trance Medium who traveled to many different states, giving readings and seances. He was well known and in his travels was referred to as the “seer of spiritualism.” Colby attended summer Spiritualist Camp meetings at Lily Dale, New York, the town adjacent to Cassadaga, New York that would lend its name to the Florida community. Cassadaga is an Indian word meaning “water beneath the rocks.” Colby worked with several spirit guides who would give him knowledge. One of his spirit guides was a Native American named Seneca, who
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a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads had manifested to Colby during a seance in Lake Mills, Iowa. According to Colby, Seneca had instructed him to travel south to Florida, where he eventually arrived at a place called the Blue Springs Landing, near Orange City. According to Colby, the area that Seneca had led him to was the same area that Colby had seen during the seance in Iowa. Colby had arrived in Florida in 1875, and on December 18, 1894, the charter was granted to form The Southern Cassadaga Spiritualist Camp Meeting Association. Today, the Camp features the Cassadaga Hotel, a central auditorium, The Colby Memorial Temple, a community library, the Caesar Forman Healing Center, a Camp bookstore, a welcome center, and the Andrew Jackson Davis Educational building, used for musical performances and gatherings. Nearby is Colby-Alderman Park. The principles of spirituality that are taught by the people at Cassadaga state, “Spiritualism has no dogma or creed, just a simple set of nine principles to help guide our lives”. According to the teachings of spiritualism, it is the “science, philosophy, and religion based upon the principle of continuous
Page 18 life”. On March 14, 1991, the Southern Cassadaga Spiritualist Camp was declared a U.S. Historic District. So, now you have the lowdown on the history of this town, and there was no way we would pass up the opportunity to visit for a bit. When we arrived, we took in a seminar which, in all honesty, was very good. The speaker put forth some things we, too, believe – not about the ethereal or the spirit world, but about surrounding yourself with good people and to do your very best in life. No argument from us. We wandered over to the hotel where rooms were readily available. They were simple, but clean and very comfortable and at a bargain price of around $100. A deal in this part of Florida. The Cassadaga Hotel was built just about 100 years ago and has a nice and classy feel to it. Okay, that classy feel is from a century ago – but we liked it. We took a late breakfast at Sinatra’s, their restaurant. Right, all this feelgood spiritualism, and their restaurant and bar are named after a guy from Hoboken, New Jersey. Go figure. That afternoon jazz guitarist Tommy Jones would be playing. While we
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waited for our food he began to play with an easy wonderful style. I had gone to explore the hotel and when I returned he had all his attention on the redhead and was delighting Shira with some of the smoothest guitar licks this side of George Benson. He was wonderful. I hoped to get home soon if just to burn my guitars. The meal was great – as was the one Bloody Mary. We hung for a bit and then, thanking Tommy for the excellent guitar, we headed over to the store that had everything and anything about spiritualism. And, please note all of this was positive and upbeat. Nothing bad or negative was around.
While some believe that the community practices black magic or witchcraft, this is untrue, as the community at Cassadaga practices Spiritualism. While the community respects the right of religious freedom, the camp centers around Infinite Intelligence and a belief system that includes God, Jesus, and the Bible. With a reservation, visitors can receive readings or Spiritual counseling by Certified Mediums who strive to provide information in a positive and constructive manner. The entire town of Cassadaga was fun, positive, and a bit uplifting as all places should be. Heck, there tee shirts say ‘Cassadaga – where Mayberry Meets the Twilight Zone!’ The town is just a short motorcycle ride from Orlando – a bit of a day trip from Daytona, but well worth it. Enjoy! ,
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Morton’s BMW Motorcycles presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s
MYSTERIOUS AMERICA
Burlington County Prison Museum 128 High Street, Mount Holly, NJ 08060 609-265-5476 • co.burlington.nj.us/956/Prison-Museum Along High Street, near the center of the town of Mount Holly, you will see a stately grey brick building that takes up an entire block. This is not any building. It is 210 years old and has many, many tales to tell. Few are pretty. Welcome to the Historic Burlington Prison. When the leaders of the county of Burlington had come to the decision to build a prison although they never called it such, referring to it as a “Workhouse and Jail,” clearly they desired the prisoners and those kept under lock and key to produce goods and an income of sorts. The Freeholders selected architect Robert Mills to design the Jail. Robert
Mills is a story all to himself – of Scottish heritage he began his architecture career with formal training as a draftsman under James Hoban who was then working on the Capitol building in Washington, D.C.. He went on to work with Thomas Jefferson, with whom he became close friends. After his work in Mount Holly, Mills went on to incredible projects. In 1836, President Andrew Jackson appointed Mills to the position of Federal Architect and Engineer. During his 16-year tenure, he played an essential role in this country’s early development, including directing the design and construction of the U.S. Treasury Building, U.S. Patent Office, the U.S. Post Office, the Washington Monument in Baltimore, and the National Monument in Washington, D.C. The latter was an engineering accomplishment of international acclaim and the tallest single edifice in the world at the time. The construction of the imposing Burlington County Prison was completed in 1811, and the first inmates were received. The outside of the building has changed very little. The massive front door and large handle are original. The interior vaulted ceilings of poured concrete and the brick and stone construction are also much as they were when the facility was first opened. The building is painted to resemble the original whitewash. The cell doors are also original and many were fabricated in place. In continuous use from 1811 until 1965, the prison was, at the time it closed, the oldest continuously used jail in the country. When we visited the prison we were given a tour by Paulie Wenger who had a deep and thorough knowledge of the prison and its, sometimes, violent history. Before we get into some of the inmates who spent time here let us talk briefly about one of the men who put more into the Burlington County Prison than any other. I am talking about the famed detective Ellis Parker.
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Parker served as Burlington County’s chief detective from 1891 to 1936. For four decades, he solved 98% of the murders in Burlington County and became internationally known as the “American Sherlock Holmes”. Parker possessed uncanny deductive reasoning skills and he was one of the first “profilers”. But even the great may meet an ironic downfall. Parker’s resulted from his involvement in the investigation of the kidnapping of Charles Lindbergh’s baby in 1932. He allegedly directed two men to kidnap an attorney named Paul Wendel and torture him into a confession. He was tried in federal court in Newark for kidnapping Wendel. The complicated story, full of incredible irony and extraordinary twists, ended with Parker’s death in the Lewisburg Federal Penitentiary in 1940. To this day many believe he was railroaded and it was Paul Wendell, not Bruno Hauptmann, who committed the kidnapping and that Parker was, once again, correct in his deductions and reasoning. The building has three stories and most of the cell blocks were organized
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into units of 4 individual cells, each with its own fireplace, opening off a short hall at each end of the floor. Each cell block held people accused of a similar offense/criminal type and sex. Women inmates, habitual criminals, and first offenders were three of the categories, segregated in the housing plan. The basement was designed to house a workshop, where the incarcerated, both men and women, were expected to learn a skill so that when they had done their time, they had a way to be in lawful employment. The kitchen and all supplies used in prison life were in the basement. Another room in the basement was designed to be the dining room, and controlled access to the exercise yard, which was surrounded by a twenty-foot, imposing wall. The dungeon or maximum-security cell was not in the basement but was located in a room in the center of the second floor, surrounded by small areas for guards or visitors, with an iron ring in the center of the floor for the incarcerated person. It was the only room without a fireplace but had a small window, located high up on the wall. It was a cold place to spend the night,
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often used for the last night before the condemned would die by hanging out in the yard. During the prison’s history, there were fights, executions, and even murders. On November 5th, 1920 an inmate surprised the Warden William Harry King and a trustee with an iron poker. When he was done both the warden and trustee were dead and he had escaped. Albert DeSalvo spent time there… Do you know him? He went on to become the notorious Boston Strangler – so the place has had its share of the notorious inside its concrete walls When we walked the halls, you could not help but be impressed by how
Page 21 the Museum’s Association has been able to portray prison life in such a real and humanizing way; as whitewashed statues portray prisoners and the life they have gotten themselves into. The man in the dungeon, staring at the floor in desperation or perhaps resignation, was especially poignant. Other things making a trip to the Burlington County Prison Museum well worth it are the examples of ‘Prison Graffiti’ - and you will see some amazing examples of this. Each wall drawing tells a tale and speaks of the inmate who created it. But let’s get to the real mysterious reason for our visit. No place like this can go on for so long with so many violent and terrible occurrences without wearing the history. This prison is reputed to be one of the most haunted places in the United States. One such ghost that shows up from time to time is that of Joel Clough, who murdered his lover with blunt force, and was hung in 1850. Before his hanging Clough was chained to the floor, naked, awaiting his death. From then on, other prisoners and guards heard his moaning and chain rattling. Objects have been known to move around by themselves, and they saw his apparition sitting in the cell. EMF Readers (Electro-Magnetic Field) routinely get “hits” in and about this particular cell and the prison has been featured in many paranormal shows. While we were there we did not run into any apparitions, but what we did find was a fantastically intriguing and interesting place that had many stories to tell. All this makes the Burlington County Prison Museum another curious part of Mysterious America. ,
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King Kone Creamery 182 Hershey Rd, Hummelstown, PA 17036 717-220-1932 • Find them on Facebook • Check for hours During the dark times, which I call winter, I seem to watch more television than usual. In between episodes of Supernatural or Schitt’s Creek, we’ll find something on the History Channel – usually something on how something is made. Recently, we followed along with The Food that Built America: The Chocolate Rush and how Milton Hershey became the king of the chocolate business. A little tidbit – HB Reese (yup, that Reese) created the best-selling candy ON THE PLANET. I will have to concur, but will move on to the reason for bringing up Milton Hershey. We like to visit the AACA (Antique Automobile Club of America) Museum every so often. Pam Collins just did a great review of their current exhibit on mini bikes, and having a free day we decided to see it for ourselves. In addition to this stroll down memory lane, the ‘Yes, it’s a Hemi’ exhibit was terrific. Actually, the whole museum is terrific and worth a trip a few times a year to see what’s new. I had been lamenting to Brian that I was running low on ice cream inspiration and, lo and behold, directly across the street from the museum sat King Kone Creamery. Established in 2009, Kolynn and Lynn Kelley have brought a fun and friendly shop to the outskirts of Hershey, PA. As you may guess by the name, there are images and cute, fuzzy monkeys and gorillas scattered about the shop. Their logo features one very happy gorilla holding an ice cream cone. And why wouldn’t he be happy, surrounded by some of the best ice cream to be found. King Kone hand dips Turkey Hill, Galliker’s and, of course, Hershey Premium ice creams. To be truthful, I had never heard of Galliker’s but apparently they, a third-generation, family-owned dairy from Johnstown, PA, have been churning out ice cream for over 100 years. Their Birthday Cake ice cream was something to see and quite colorful and their Sweet + Salty Caramel Pretzel is one of King Kone’s best sellers. Not just scooping into cups and cones, there is an extensive menu from which to choose. Their sundaes sound amazing: The Monkey Wrench: Fudge Brownie topped with chocolate ice cream,
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Page 23 peanut butter sauce, whipped cream and 2 cherries, Monkey meets Moose – Moosetracks ice cream, sliced banana, chocolate syrup, peanuts, whipped cream and 2 cherries or the Gorilla Dump – Warm homemade apple dumpling topped with soft serve vanilla, apple toping, cinnamon, whipped cream and, of course, 2 cherries. Kolynn and Lynn were both in the shop; Lynn scooping and Kolynn tiding up, reposting signs and other tasks owners do to keep their place looking great. King Kone has a number of indoor tables as well as a walk-up window and drive-thru. As is my method, I looked at all the flavors in the cooler before making a choice. The young ladies scooping offered a taste of whatever I fancied, but having tried almost every flavor of Hershey’s I made my decision pretty quickly – Midnight Caramel River: Creamy golden vanilla and dark chocolate ice cream flooded with a thick and rich caramel swirl and Banana Pudding: Banana ice cream with marshmallow swirl and vanilla wafer cookies. Brian indulged in a homemade waffle cone stuffed with Cookies ‘n Cream and Coffee. We sat and chatted with Kolynn and enjoyed our treat before the ride back home. We seemed to have hit the window just right as the bus pulled in (literally) right after we sat down. The walk-up and drive-thru were cranking so we finished up and left the folks to take care of their new patrons. During the warmer months, King Kone has a few outdoor picnic tables as well as their indoor tables, so you can soak up the sunshine while slurping down your ice cream. This makes for a great mix of ice cream and auto/motorcycle ride with the warm weather here. Get out and ride – see you on the road! ,
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The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents
Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival
Why Motorcycle Crashes Happen Ken Condon As I write this column, I am grieving from the loss of a friend and coworker, taken by a careless driver who ran a red light. My friend was an avid rider of exceptional skill and was aware of the risks of riding a motorcycle. Many of us can name one or more highly skilled riders who were involved in crashes; some may have even succumbed to their injuries. I am reminded of Larry Grodsky, the safety columnist for Rider Magazine and founder of the Stayin’ Safe on-road rider training program. Larry died when he collided with a deer. Larry fully knew the dangers of animals and took all precautions to avoid being exposed to this hazard. However, circumstances required him to ride later into the evening than he wanted. The chances of encountering a deer may have been elevated, but the risk was probably acceptable. Fate stepped in with a different idea. As someone who has dedicated much of his life to rider training, this does not sit well. Even though continual learning and purposeful practice improves my odds significantly, nothing can absolutely guarantee my safety. Possible versus Likely I do believe that “out of the blue” mishaps that befall alert, skilled riders are rare and that the vast majority of crashes are preventable. I also know that sometimes crashes happen, even when the rider has taken all precautions. To ride a motorcycle well we must ride with knowledge of this fact. We all must understand the risks we are taking by riding a two-wheeler so that we can do what is necessary to increase the likelihood that we live a long and healthy life. This means doing all we can to minimize the risks of riding.
These statistics are upsetting. But, if this is news to you then you haven’t been paying attention. Motorcycling has always been riskier than driving a car. And it’s been riskier (statistically speaking) during some years and less risky during others. The reasons include: a surge of new riders during good economic times and/or when fuel prices are high; good weather that leads to more vehicle miles traveled; increases or decreases in safety initiatives at the government level. The list goes on, but you get the idea. So, does that mean that the more you ride, the more likely you are to crash? Not necessarily. Statistics suggest trends, not absolute outcomes. The chance that flipping a coin will result in heads or tails is 50/50. But, you can flip a coin ten times and it’s possible to get heads all ten times. That doesn’t mean that the odds of getting tails have now gone up; it’s still 50/50. Let’s say the odds of crashing are 1 in 100,000. If we ride 99,999 times, does that mean we will crash on our next ride? No, because the likelihood of you crashing is not based on past rides. It can be argued that the more you ride, the less likely you are to crash, because you’ve learned how to ride well. However, this only holds true if you have actually become more skilled, as opposed to simply having ridden more miles. It may be less likely that you will crash if you are skilled, but crashes still happen. The fact that we ride means that we are exposed to that risk. So, what can we do to reduce the chance of being involved in a crash? Excluding any mention of bad luck, or fate, or acts of God, we are left with our ability to manage the risk. The reasons why crashes happen are not numerous: inattention, alcohol or drug impairment, lack of traffic-management strategies, poor risk perception, lack of mental preparedness and attention, and inadequate cornering, braking and slow-speed skills. Sure, there are other reasons we could add to the list, but you’ll find that this list covers a huge percentage of why crashes happen. You’ll notice that 5 of the 6 reasons I list are mental skills. Not being in the right mental condition to effectively and accurately evaluate the environment puts you at high risk of being involved in a crash. The physical skills of cornering, braking and keeping a slow-moving motorcycle upright are also critical. It is necessary to have the highest possible level of ability to control your motorcycle, but often it is the lack of mental proficiency and good judgment that gets us into trouble. Poor mental skills require us to use superior physical skills to survive. ,
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It’s a beautiful morning, ah I think I’ll go outside for a while And just smile Just take in some clean fresh air, boy No sense in staying inside If the weather’s fine and you’ve got the time It’s your chance to wake up and plan another brand-new day Boy, did Cavalier and Brigati get those feelings right. I would hope that Felix and Eddie came about these words after a nice spring morning’s motorcycle ride. And, now that May is here, we hope that you have a bunch of ‘beautiful mornings’ for yourself and get out and enjoy the backroads. With that in mind, we’d like to share a few day trips for your meadinging pleasure. You can do all of a trip, or just part – you can mix and match rides. We don’t mind and it’s certainly up to you. Backroads has a wide swath of readers and riders so we’ll try to offer a small plethora of rides from various regions and states. We hope more than one will suit your fancy and, of course, there will be links to GPS routes to go with each one. So wake up and plan the day. Maybe do a bit of humming while you do… The Rascals had it right! It’s a beautiful morning, ah Each bird keeps singing his own song So long I’ve got to be on my way now No fun just hanging around I got to cover ground You couldn’t keep me down
New Jersey Skylands Run 100-mile loop Let’s start covering ground with a run in our own backyard. This is one of those “Go-To” routes that we do a lot. We all have these; loops that offer up a good bit of miles, a comfortable familiarity, and maybe a place or two along the way for a bit of food, coffee, and pie.
We are fortunate to live right off one of the finest motorcycle roads in the state, so will start this jaunt at Garris General Store, in Stillwater, New Jersey. Dean and crew have a super place, combining local history and some superior breakfast as well. If you flip this route around you can opt for lunch and/or several delicious ice cream flavors. We occasionally double-check some things and we came across this Yelp review; and Tim, from Lee, Massachusetts was spot on: ‘Amazing. Their Taylor ham egg and cheese is constructed perfectly so all the flavors blend together in a cascade of New Jersey breakfast glory.’ What he said. With a hearty breakfast starting the day, you will head down Main Street, on the General Store’s side of the street, and over the small bridge bearing right up Cedar Ridge Road. We hope you like twists and turns because we have a number of them on this route. Not too far along you will pass the Snowmobile Barn Museum – well worth a stop if they are open. You’ll follow along to Route 94 and eventually get on County Road 519, which you will enjoy all the way to Hope, NJ where you’ll pick up County Road 521 north. Get comfortable on the road, as we will be doing some miles on this superb piece of pavement.
Page 26 As you near Blairstown you will find some fuel stations on Route 94 and you might want to make a stop at Blairstown Powersports. Frank has a great shop and has been a long-time supporter of this magazine. Continuing on County Road 521 North you will pass The Boat House on Swartswood Lake. The lake is a 550-acre hole scoured out by glaciers and is surrounded by 10,000 acres of Kittatinny Mountains, its watershed. The lake spreads out into shallow coves and Little Swartswood Lake before it rides the dam then empties into the Mill Brook. It is also the first State Park in the Garden State. At the intersection of County Road 521 and County Road 626, make a right and follow 626 down through the Twin Bridges. According to the Historic Marker in place: “Two rudimentary bridges were built to cross the Tockhockonetcong (now the Paulinskill) as Jonathan Hampton ordered the construction of the Military Road in 1756. An essential supply line to the frontier fortification in the Delaware Valley, the Military Road was maintained until 1760. A permanent pair of bridges were built when the abandoned lands and mills, formerly owned by Benjamin Barton, a Loyalist, were bought by Henry and Peter Bale around 1790. A mill, located between the two bridges, produced gun stocks for use in the Civil War. The mill was destroyed by fire in 1923.” Today we just need to be prepared to stop as the bridges’ approach is a blind down-hill run. Soon we’ll run into County Road 519 once again. This time head north across Route 206 and through the towns of Branchville and Beemerville. This road has been a constant and fun friend since we moved up into the Skylands region some 25 years ago. You might run across us in these parts. Turn left at Route 23 and, if it’s time for lunch, coffee, and pie, stop at the Elias Cole. For decades the Lane Family has been serving up great home cooking and their pies are the stuff of legend. Say hi to Nancy and the gals and tell them Backroads sent you - if you do the coffee’s on us! Now, fully sugared, caffeinated, and empty of bladder and trouble let us tally on. High Point is just that – the highest point in New Jersey. The view from High Point Monument, at 1,803 feet above sea level, is a spectacular panorama of rich farmland and forest, soft hills, and lush valleys in three states. The blue line of the Delaware River divides the verdant ridges of New Jersey from those of Pennsylvania. High Point offers a superb multi-state view for riders heading up to the monolithic monument atop our state. The monument was built through the generosity of the Kusers, in honor of all war veterans. Construction was started in 1928 and completed in 1930. At the top of the 220-foot structure, observers have a breathtaking view of the ridges of the Pocono Mountains toward the west, the Catskill Mountains to the north, and the Wallkill River Valley in the southeast. Back down on Route 23 continue north and enjoy the ride. Just before the border with New York make a left on Clove Road. This is a road that deserved added attention as the small elevation and direction changes can quickly catch you. So ride smart and safe. New Mashipacong Road runs through a nice horse field and finishes at River Road where you’ll pick up Route 206. Here we’ll be heading south for just a second before banging a hard right into the Delaware Water Gap region and Old Mine Road – one of the oldest roads in the nation. This nearly 300-year-old roadway is named for the mines at Pahaquarry. Along some stretches near Millbrook, you can still ride on the original unpaved roadbed once traipsed by Dutch farmers, by colonial Americans, and by soldiers of the French & Indian and Revolutionary Wars. It now stretches for a length of 104 miles from the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area to the vicinity of Kingston, New York. But we’re only interested in the part that will run into Walpack Valley.
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If you have read backroads for a while you have heard us glow about this valley. At one time believed to be drowned by a federal dam project, this valley is one of the most remote and natural parts of the Garden State. Now part of the National Park Service the road designated 615 is a true jewel. A little exploration will run you to Buttermilk Falls –at 200 feet are some of the highest in the northeast. In the historic village of Millbrook bear left and continue onto Millbrook Road. Keep a sharp lookout for Birch Ridge Road on the left and take this onto Millbrook-Stillwater road. Once again – pay attention to this piece of asphalt. Most of it is downhill with some tight and attention-grabbing sweepers. This will end at County Road 521. Right here and straight on Main Street… just in time for Dean to scoop you some Nasto’s ice cream. Download .gpx here: sendspace.com/pro/dl/1rdx80 Wild + Wonderful West Virginia
225-miles
Who does not love the Mountain State of West ‘By God’ Virginia? If you have never ridden here then you are in for a treat as this state has always been high on our list for super and serious motorcycle riding. We’ll start this two-wheel trek out of the town of Moorefield and the South Branch Inn. This hotel has hosted us a few times, the last being one of our rallies. This was made especially better as the town bowling alley is right behind the inn and we had several teams get together from our friends for a semi-serious time. The Dude abides! The South Branch Inn is very motorcycle friendly and the town has a number of eateries – so you will be in good hands. Head south on Route 220 and then bear left towards South fork Road and then look to the right and continue onto Lost River State Park Road – State Road 12. At Route 259 make a right and head south.
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You will cross into the Commonwealth of Virginia for a bit. You will know this by the number of Signs as you enter – all telling you what you can’t do. We continue south until the famed Route 33. Route 33 is a hoot in either direction and in both Virginia and West Virginia, but today head west all the way into the Monongahela State Forest and to Judy Gap. The Monongahela National Forest has nearly one million acres of natural beauty and includes some major landform features with some of the highest mountain peaks in the state, including the highest, Spruce Knob. At 4,863 ft. Spruce Knob is also the highest point in the Allegheny Mountains and there is a road that leads to the top of this peak. Heading past Judy Gap you will see Briery Gap Road which leads to CR112 and the summit.
From this rugged alpine peak, you can view grassy openings and pastures or look down on forested ridges as far as the eye can see. Spruce Knob Tower sits atop the Knob, providing visitors with a vantage point from which to enjoy a 360-degree view. After your “top o’the world” adventure, continue down on the western flank of the mountain, bearing right onto CR1 and then right again on Route 29. After many miles you’ll arrive at Seneca Rocks, one of the best-known landmarks in West Virginia. These rocks have long been noted as a scenic attraction and are popular with rock climbers. The rocks are a magnificent formation rising nearly 900 feet above the North Fork
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River and the best view to see them is from the Front Porch Restaurant. Good food, very friendly staff, and one heck of a view. While you are there take some time to explore Harper’s Old Country Store, one of the oldest continuously operated businesses in West Virginia, built in 1902, and serving generations. The interior of the store is much the same as in 1902 and the original board floor must be oiled frequently. The
Page 28 architecture of the building, along with the big front porch, represents the vintage of the middle and late 1800s. After enjoying the past, let’s head south for a look at the future – Space, the final frontier. Head south on Route 28 and bear left onto Route 92 towards Greenbank and something very special – the National Radio Observatory. The observatory is home to the Robert C. Byrd Green Bank Telescope, the largest fully steerable dish in the world. Scientists from around the world use this telescope to study planets & comets in our own Solar System, to quasars & galaxies billions of light-years away. Sorry, no cell phones. This is a National Radio Quiet Zone that was established by the Federal Communications Commission to minimize possible harmful interference to the National Radio Astronomy Observatory. So, shhh! Further south on Route 92 and then onto Route 66 west brings you to Cass and their stunning railroad. This is well worth the stop especially if the steam locomotive is operating. If time warrants a ride on the train is a must. Continue along this superb piece of pavement that brings you up and over
BACKROADS • MAY 2021 the mountains and ends at Route 219, which will head north to the town of Mingo and the Brazen Head Inn, a most excellent inn and restaurant and perhaps your stop for the night? We hope, as it has been a long day exploring Wild and Wonderful West Virginia. The Keystone Caper This was slated to be a Great All-American Diner Run, but we thought we’d offer it up early in the season. This ride meanders across northeast Pennsylvania from the Delaware Water Gap to the town of White Haven with all the usual bells and whistles that you have come to expect from Backroads. Enjoy! Download .gpx file here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/c1w385
The Powerhouse Eatery 60 Powerhouse Rd, White Haven, PA 18661 powerhouseeatery.co • 570-443-4480 For more than a decade this eatery on the southside of Interstate-80, at exit 273 in White Haven, Pennsylvania, has caught our attention, again and again, as we usually rocket by on 4-wheels making time. If you have been this way perhaps you have seen this restaurant as it’s hard to miss.
BACKROADS • MAY 2021 But we did some asking around and we heard that The Powerhouse had a great combination of history, fantastic food, and superb roads – I-80 regardless. It was well past time we visited. Let’s run back into the history of this superb eatery. Do you think this pandemic was the first time we have been beaten up as a people? TB was an evil word in the late 1800s and early in the 20th century.
Responding, as all good men and women do, a group of philanthropists were seeking a location for an institution constructed specifically to treat people suffering from “consumption,” a bygone term for tuberculosis. In the days before vaccinations and antibiotics, cold, dry air was believed to have a therapeutic effect for sufferers of TB. The town of White Haven offered such a climate, in addition to other geographical benefits. White Haven was easily reached by train from New York; at the same time, it was isolated enough to provide a measure of containment against the spread of TB. Much the same as the facility we wrote about in the Adirondacks last season.
But they quickly ran out of enough electricity to power their needs. In 1938, wealthy industrialist Pierre DuPont donated $125,000 to the center in gratitude for the care given to his tuberculosis-afflicted personal secretary. These funds were used to further expand the power plant. Before its renovation, the plant had encompassed only what are today the bar and the lounge; Dupont’s gift provided for what are now the dining room and state-of-the-art kitchen. As we could see the variations in brickwork between the older and newer walls clearly illustrate the fact that this structure evolved in stages, a fascinating historic characteristic the owners have taken great care to preserve.
Page 29 Today it all combines for a unique and satisfying dining experience. Sometimes it’s the roads that lead to a place, so although it lies along one of the most heavily traveled cross-continental interstates, we’ll have a notable journey from the Delaware River to The Powerhouse. The Powerhouse does lunch, offering a good selection of starters, salads, and a varied selection of sandwiches from Fried Chicken Sando to their OG Burger, which is an 8 oz. local burger blend, Cooper’s sharp cheddar, candied onion, lettuce, tomato, red onion, house pickles and secret sauce. The Powerhouse’s dinners are equally impressive with pasta and steaks ruling the menu. We had stopped in for their Sunday Brunch, and really didn’t know what to expect, but were truly blown away by the ambiance, the great staff, and an amazing menu this day. Letting her sweet tooth get the better of her, Shira ordered the Brûlée PBJ; toasted Ciabatta layered with crunchy peanut nutter, housemade jam and brûléed bananas. Oh, my dear! I am glad she is a sharer.
Page 30 If you have a group, and you are all sharers too, then order up the Charcuterie Board for starters - 6 Year aged Beemster Gouda, Somerdale Wensleydale with cranberries, Gorgonzola, Olympia Chorizo Rioja, Maestri Smoked Speck, Lincini Hot Soppressata, house-made olive tapenade, fig spread bacon jam, whole grain mustard, and Ciabatta bread. That’ll handle a group for sure. The brunch offers five different Eggs Benedict. We ordered the Kodiak - two poached eggs atop toasted English muffins, colossal crab cakes, smothered with Hollandaise. Along with this, we added Chicken & Waffles - buttermilk brined fried chicken, house-made waffle, served with hot honey butter. Both were simply smashing! You will also find eleven different and delectable sandwiches and a killer Seafood Bar – next time there we’ll be going after the Seafood Tower which they recommend for four. Sure, it costs $80, but the tower of colossal crab meat, six jumbo cocktail shrimp, a dozen Blue Point oysters, salmon ceviche, Powerhouse signature cocktail sauce, Louisiana remoulade and Mignonette doesn’t seem to hurt as much spread four ways. So, now we have clued you in on a place that is a wonderful combination of history and comfort, and brings some seriously great food to the table. All we need now is a good ride to go with it, which we have covered with an easy 55-mile ride, starting near the Visitor’s Center at the Water Gap. Download .gpx file here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/5rxy86 Wash away your worries with some waterfalls – Vermont Road Tour • 220-miles Undeniably, Vermont is one of the most beautiful states to spend a day, week or longer exploring. Whether you prefer pristine pavement or doable dirt, Vermont will satisfy your wants. For your summer planning, we offer up a ride with a combination, as you just never know what is around the bend while riding in Vermont. But, to soothe your soul and calm your chi, you will have multiple waterfalls along the way – eight, to be specific. So, pack your swimming trunks and a picnic lunch, we’re on the road to adventure. You will find some of the most beautiful waterfalls in this 200-mile waterfall road trip. The scenery along the way is charming and, should you choose, you’ll be staying at the lovely Brandon Inn to start the day right and end it with your favorite adult beverage. Another option, if you’d like to split up the
BACKROADS • MAY 2021 ride, is to stay at the top of the route at the Commodores Inn in Stowe. They are very motorcycle-friendly and will make you feel right at home. No matter where you are, there is a delightful rush when you happen upon a waterfall. No two are alike, and they can be different throughout the year, and even year to year. Whether the falls are a hiking destination or a surprise on the side of the road, there are undeniably some magical and compelling things about them. Actually, there are several very real reasons we love waterfalls … any time there is moving or rushing water, it gives off negative ions – which, ironically, give us all “positive vibes.” It’s one of the reasons a long hot shower makes us feel so good, too. Also, the white noise generated by the sound of the water crashing and flowing has a soothing effect. Waterfalls please multiple senses at the same time, so your senses of sight, hearing and smell receive simultaneous positive stimulation. The stimulation is so strong, it can push all other thoughts and feelings out of our minds. We are surrounded by beauty in a setting that is either peaceful or powerful, depending on the falls.
Falls of Lana, Salisbury, VT Just a short ride from Brandon, you’ll come to your first stop at the Falls of Lana in the Moosalamoo National Recreation Area. Parking can be found there should you decide to take one of the easy to difficult walks to any of
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the vantage points to view this over 100-foot-high falls. The upper falls have been described a spot to film a hopelessly romantic scene for Hollywood, should their scouts ever find it. The lower falls consist of horsetails and cascades winding down through an undercut gorge into a tempting pool.
Bristol Falls, Bristol, VT After hiking to Falls of Lana, you can relax as the walk to see Bristol Falls is quite easy. There is plenty of parking in Memorial Park so you can take in this 15-foot splash down. The best view is from the narrow bridge perched in the middle of the gorge, where you can see both sides of the upper plunge and the lower horsetail.
Champlain (thus the name Joiner Brook). There are three sets of falls making up the pools, or potholes, below which are perfect for an afternoon soak should the weather permit.
Bingham Falls, Stowe, VT Located in the Mt. Mansfield State Forest, you’ll have a .5 mile out and back trail leading to this secluded waterfall. The long, tight gorge walls along the river cause the water to create a deep, rumbling sound as it eventually plunges over the main 25foot falls. The teal water color permeates the entire distance, giving Bingham Falls it’s deep, clean and absolutely stunning appearance. Parking is limited but available on either side of Route 108. The next leg of the ride will take you through Smuggler’s Notch, a Vermont favorite road, then east on beautiful Route 15 before heading just a bit north on Route 14 to the fifth stop on the tour.
Jeudevine Falls, Hardwick, VT
Bolton Potholes, Bolton, VT Heading north along scenic Route 116 through the Green Mountains, you’ll find Bolton Potholes behind the Smilie school, where you can also find parking should the small parking area be full. The Potholes have been carved by the Joiner Brook, which flows from the top of Bolton Mountain, then joins the Winooski River to finally pour into Lake
These falls may be the most commercial of the lot, but there’s probably a reason for that, as they have been the setting for many a wedding or party scene. Though on private property, they can be seen from the road but if you can take the short walk to see them up close, it is certainly worth the effort for the 50-to-60-foot drop of the lower falls with its tiers of fans and horsetails. Heading south on Route
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Page 32 215, you’ll pass through the town of Cabot and by the Cabot Farmers’ Village Store. Here, back in 1919, began the long-famed trail of Cabot Cheese which has blossomed into almost all things dairy. Stop by for a sampling; this will make for a great pairing with your wine this evening.
Marshfield Falls, Marshfield, VT
on the left and a staircase of cascades on the right. There is no parking pull-off to view the upper falls. The road tour is coming to an end, with just two more therapeutic drops to view.
Roxbury Falls, Roxbury, VT
This 100-foot cascading drop can also be seen from the road. It has been split into upper and lower falls by a paved road, which is very convenient for viewing. The lower falls have a drop of 40 feet consisting of a plunge
Unfortunately, these rushing waters are not very visible from the road and the scramble down the embarkment may not be your cup of tea. Should you decide to, you will be rewarded with a very photogenic horsetail waterfall. They are located on the left just before you reach Carrie-Howe Rd. Your last stop is one of two Vermont falls named Moss Glen, the other being in Stowe.
Moss Glen Falls, Granville, VT After a long day of walking and viewing, you’ll be glad to know that Moss Glen is quite viewable without a walk and has a parking area. There is a boardwalk should you want a quick stretch of the legs and if you take the time to admire it fully you will see how indescribably beautiful this place is.
To help unwind even further, the last leg of your ride will be on the twistalicious tarmac of Route 73, just one of the Gaps which make Vermont so much fun to ride. Enjoy the 20 or so miles before parking the bike, strolling around the quaint village of Brandon and sitting down to a rewarding dinner after your day of cleansing. , Brandon Inn, 20 Park St, Brandon, VT 802-247-5766 • brandoninn.com Commodores Inn, 823 S Main St, Stowe, VT 800-447-8693 • commodoresinn.com Download .gpx file here: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/pjrz3m
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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
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TECH-AIR 5 FROM ALPINESTAR • PROTECTION IN A SPLIT SECOND!
If you have ever watched MotoGP then you know just how fast these racers are and how devastating some of their crashes and mishaps can be. Did you know that more than half of the racers are wearing Airbag Systems designed by Alpinestar? There is a very good reason for this – it works and can prevent a bad crash from becoming exponentially worse. Now you can have that same protection when you ride. Tech-Air 5 is Alpinestars’ autonomous, electronic Airbag System designed to provide unrivalled upper body airbag coverage. The Tech-Air 5 can be worn under any properly fitting (RE: not skin tight) motorcycling jacket or leather suit and has been uniquely engineered to provide the most comprehensive coverage to protect motorcycle riders’ shoulders, chest, ribs and full back, both on the road and at the track. Tech-Air 5 has built-in Bluetooth connectivity, allowing riders to display the Tech-Air 5 operational status, battery status, as well as a detailed map of their ride on their mobile phone directly via the Tech-Air App. The Tech-Air 5 firmware can also be updated directly via the App. The RACE Riding Mode is available as part of the newest TechAir 5 software release update. In addition to motorcyclists being able to ride protected during their daily commute, with this new feature riders can now switch to RACE Riding Mode and ride on closedcourse racetracks. To change from STREET to RACE mode, simply select RACE mode and save it. Now the Tech-Air 5 Airbag System will be set for the desired RACE Riding Mode. Note that RACE Riding Mode must only be used for riding on closed racetracks and not be used for any other type of riding.
The Tech-Air RACE Riding Mode is developed for the riding conditions associated with the racetrack and the riding style typically found at the racing circuit. The STREET Riding Mode is for street riding conditions where motorcyclists frequently stop at traffic lights and intersections. To ensure that you have the correct coverage for your specific riding mode, always set STREET riding mode for street riding and only use RACE Riding Mode for closed-course racetrack riding. The Tech-Air is available in 8 sizes from XS – 4XL, and can be worn by male or female riders although Aplinestar states “We do not recommend the use of the Tech-Air 5 System to any women with artificial breast implants as the force of the deployment can potentially cause unwanted affects.” Okay then. The Tech-Air 5 Airbag System is available now for around $699 from your local Alpinestar dealer. ,
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words + images: Brian Rathjen and Shira Kamil When southern California pops into a rider’s mind they usually become entranced with thoughts of long winding beach roads, sand, surf, and bikinis. That may well be in certain spots, but our experience is that Route 1 north to LA can a bit crowded and not exactly matching the fantasy that has been heaped upon riders from the northeast. The interstates can be far worse. Think George Washington Bridge on a Friday night around 6 pm. That is a light day in the Golden State. A while back we found ourselves in the very neat city of San Diego, the land of near-perfect weather all the time. What an easy job to be a weather forecaster in this town. Almost always perfect, sunny low-80s.
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Page 35 San Diego which, for the geographically challenged, lies on the border with Mexico, was our goal post when we decided to head west last year when we were ready to break out. Although we discovered much and rode thousands of miles across the continent, our final destination was to visit our son, also a Brian, and his gal Ashley. We rode into the northern part of the city in the mid-afternoon and took a room for a couple of nights at the Lafayette Swim Club. This place is a throw-back to the days of Bob Hope, Bing Crosby, and the Hollywood elite
of the ‘40s. This was their go-to escape. The pool, around which the hotel is built, was designed by Johnny Weissmuller. Yes, Tarzan. Today it is a very hip and happening place. On this afternoon the poolside was scattered with young people in different stages of imbibement. This is a place that must have always been a great pick-up spot and if these walls could talk after all these years … We pool-sided for a bit, mixing a bit of book reading and people watching. Come early evening we headed over to a swanky outdoor restaurant to meet our son and Ashley. It was our first time meeting her and you might wonder who was more nervous. The next day we lounged around a bit and then met the kids for another meal and to see their place. Hugs and kisses all around that night as we headed back to the Lafayette and packed the bikes up for the next few days as we headed north towards Los Angeles. Come mid-morning we had poolside coffee and then headed east and up into the mountains of the Cleveland National Forest, our first stop being the
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Page 36 Apple Capitol of America – Julian. We have been here many times, but we always find a reason to come back. It usually involves apple pie and ice cream. Julian came about after the Civil War and was originally settled by a Confederate family. When they passed through the area they knew they had found a home and, needing a name for their settlement, decided on Julian as their cousin, Mike Julian who was traveling with them, was the best looking of the bunch. See, good looking people get treated better than us. Not much later gold was found and the town boomed. Around 1873 a man named James Madison brought a wagon load of young apple trees into the region. The trees flourished in the mountain air and to this day, although there is much to do in and around the town, it is known for its apples and apple pies. Life was very good that afternoon.
Properly sugared and caffeinated we vectored north and a bit west towards the town of Hemet, on the edge of the Mojave Desert. A little side trip up very windy County Road S6 is well worth it, as atop the peak, you will find the Palomar Observatory. Since 1949 this telescope, once the largest in the world, has looked to the stars. The first astronomer to gaze up from the observatory was none other than Edwin Hubble. From the mountain, it was a quick and twisty ride back down (you gotta love the No Snowballs Thrown signs) and on the way to Hemet where we’d overnight with our friends Fred and Cherrie Rau. Many of you will recognize the name as Fred has been, and still is, one of the most colorful characters in the industry.
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Page 37 carved such an intricate design. But that is something that Dr. O’Life should chase down for us all. Come to morning Fred scooted us over to the Hemet Airport and a great little diner called Bambi’s Café – the perfect way to start the day. Great food and airplanes! We said our goodbyes and pointed the bikes north riding back up into the mountains and heading towards the Big Bear and Lake Arrowhead regions on Highway 38 that runs through the San Bernadino Forest. Here the pavement was smooth, the curves delightful and the scenery outstanding. I could live here.
Cherrie is an angel as she puts up with him. Both Fred and I married up. We had a great dinner that night with Fred’s friends Walt and Nancy Fulton. Yes, Walt is THAT Walt Fulton – motorcycle racer extraordinaire and Daytona 200 winner. We felt like we were dining with royalty that night. In addition to having some great riders in the area, Hemet is also known for its mysterious Maze Stone. Discovered by a farmer surveying his land in 1914, it has been determined to be over 500 years old and was unlike any other petroglyph found up till that time. Theories abound about the stone and who could have
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Along one part of the road, just past an Adventure Park, I spied something on the road as we flashed by. I said to Shira via the Sena Bluetooth Communicators that I wondered what that was… as it looked to be a wallet. I whipped the Gold Wing around and headed back and, sure enough, it was a wallet indeed. Full of cash and credit cards, it belonged to a young woman from San Diego. During lunch, Shira does what Shira can do and she scoured the internet and the Book of Face looking to find the woman. We had already stopped and overnighted her wallet to her home from the first Post Office we could find. Along Route 18, known as the Rim of the World Highway, we made a quick stop at the Heaps Peak Arboretum. We strolled the Sequoia Trail, with Shira
BACKROADS • MAY 2021 searching for that perfect giant pine cone. Although it was a little late in the season, there still were several pretty plants and many Western Rattlesnake signs. We took note of both. As we rode through the small mountain towns, we passed two young capitalists selling homemade lemonade at the bottom of a drive. Shira and I pulled the Gold Wing and NC750X along the side of the road and enjoyed the best drinks of the day. We didn’t have reservations that night, but we knew where we’d be headed and hoped that we would continue our lucky streak with overnight stays… The little mountain town of Big Pine, California. We have been here before so we tried another hotel – this one with small cabin-like rooms. The Grand Pines Cabins worked well for us that night… even after the slight… confrontation. We had just taken our room – that wasn’t exactly cheap – and, not seeing the path hidden by a workman’s pickup truck, I stepped over a small wooden fence and began to hand Shira our bags. Seemingly from nowhere, I was being scolded for climbing over the fence. (I stepped over it), but worse… I did not have a mask on! How dare I? Where was my mask? I tried to tell the woman – who turned out to be an owner – that there was nobody around me for blocks until she showed up yelling. This was the second time in two days in Cali that I had The Mask Police bustin’ me. The first being an 18-year-old kid at a CVS who could not deal with the fact that a full-face helmet, shield down, and Hedz was good enough.
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By this time, I was about done. I took a breath and asked her where her mask was? OMG… she was maskless too! “I’m off-duty and don’t have to wear one,” she said smugly. I told her I was off-duty as well… so there; and that she was dismissed. I had to tell her she was dismissed a second time, as Arlo Guthrie would say,… with feeling. She glared and turned and stomped away. For some reason, Shira and some of the other guests that had stuck their heads out their cabin doors thought I was the bad guy here. Hmmm. Well, not wouldn’t be the first and it ain’t gonna be the last with this.
The rest of the night went along happily at a local brewery and some excellent pizza, chatting with other patrons and watching the sun paint the back of the mountains as she sunk below the Pacific Ocean miles to the west. Come morning I was out on a chair watching some red squirrels chasing themselves around a monstrous pine with a cup of coffee. I heard some other guests starting their day and looked up to see the same woman who had berated me the previous day. She looked at me and I motioned for her to come over. She took the chair next to me. I took a sip of my coffee and she of hers. I turned and said, “How about we start this over fresh? My name is Brian and I am sorry we got off on the wrong foot here.”
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She said basically the same thing and all was water way under the bridge by the time Shira came out with a WTF look on her face. Much like the guys in Arlo’s song we sat on the Group W (for Woodsy) Bench and had a great time talking about the region, her hotel, and how things were going in the world.
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I highly recommend the Grand Pines Cabins, in Big Pine, just don’t hop the fence, use the path, will ya? We found breakfast right down the street. As we walked down the road, I spotted a huge Eldorado parked in front of the restaurant. When we entered, we found it belonged to one of the couples we were making small talk with the night before at the brewery. They had 7 kids….7! All theirs. Oy Veh. The mom was reading a fairy tale to all of them - as they listened intently. So did I. Mom looked over and said, “Hey, you’re the couple from last night,” and seeing I was listening she adjusted her seat to include me in the story. How nice. It was a most excellent start to an excellent day. But now it was time to ride and, sadly, return the Gold Wing and NC750X to American Honda in Torrance. But there was a great day of riding to be had before then. From Big Pine, we turned onto one of the most famous roads in California – Highway 2, the Angeles Crest Highway. This route takes you over the San Gabriel Mountains and towards Los Angeles. Construction of the road began in 1929 and it was originally intended to be a simple fire access road. Like most projects it was put on hold while WWII raged, but was picked up soon after. Much of the work was completed by prisoner labor from the now long gone Camp 37. At one point the thought was to make it a bigger freeway but the geography and terrain soon scrapped that idea. The 66-mile road opened in 1956 and has become a mecca for motorcyclist and car enthusiasts. While we were winding our way west we passed three beautiful Porsches
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along the side of the road. We stopped to look, but other than a nod of the head these guys were not all that talkative. I think the older the Porsche the snootier the driver. Okay, not you Gary. We stopped at Newcomb’s Ranch, a very popular motorcycle hang-out in the Before Times. Today it was shut down tight and looked to have been for months. So sad. We talked with two other riders who probably stopped there out of habit. We chatted about bikes and life and we all agreed that this is not the way it should be but it was good that we still had motorcycles to ride. Indeed. From there it was not long before we made our way towards the ocean. Past Hollywood and Culver City. We scooted past El Segundo where I did not stop or leave my wallet. But, we did have a decent lunch along the Pacific in Manhattan Beach. Here the tables were outdoors, yet separated by large sheets of clear plexiglass. We felt like the Chief and Max in the Cone of Silence. After riding the last 16 days through an almost normal America we had finally returned to the intensity of the coasts and big cities. Still, the lunch was good and the long walk on the beach was refreshing and a nice way to end a superb trip across the continent. We stretched a short two-and-half hour ride into three days of great exploration, from San Diego to LA, filled with history, superb scenery and miles of amazing asphalt – some of California’s best. ,
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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
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QUICK-GRIP WIRELESS CHARGING PHONE MOUNT WITH DENALI CANSMART CONNECTION
DENALI Electronics teamed up with RAM to provide effortless plug-&-play installation of the ultimate phone mounting and charging solution. Say good bye to messy and tangled charging cables. Simply place your phone into the RAM Quick-Grip cradle and your phone will begin charging using Qi wireless quick charging technology. The phone can remain in a sealed waterproof case during use. Use your phone as your main navigation device without worry of depleting the battery or exposing your device to the elements unnecessarily to charge. The DENALI kit includes the RAM Quick-Grip cradle but also includes a proprietary wiring and charging harness that enables plug-&-play connection to the DENALI CANsmart. Powering your charger through the CANsmart also unlocks proprietary features only available in the
DENALI kit like an electronic auto-resetting fuse and a customizable delayed time off to keep power to your phone after you switch off your bike. The DENALI direct to battery adapter also allows you to connect directly to any battery on any vehicle. If used in a car or truck you can also connect directly to any available USB port. This Waterproof Qi compatible wireless phone charging cradle features spring-loaded RAM Quick-Grip design and 10W maximum output and includes wireless charging cradle, B size diamond ball base, DENALI CANsmart compatible wiring harness and direct to battery wiring adapter. The mount attaches to B size double socket arms. The unit is made of powder-coated, marine-grade aluminum, stainless steel components, and highstrength composite for durability and reliability in the most demanding environments. $160 from denalielectronics.com or Twisted Throttle. ,
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THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD
11 THINGS THAT MAKE (OR SPOIL) A PERFECT RIDE
Victor Cruz
Road Condition
What is a journey? We know it involves the environment and your own state of mind. I like the secondary definition of “journey”, which states: “A long and often-difficult process of personal change and development.” Yes, we ride to get away; to feel freedom, finally, from responsibility and ache. We ride to partake in a continuous quest for the perfect ride. Every time you throw a leg over a seat you begin looking for that perfect ride; you begin a journey. Someone once defined adventure as “hardship contemplated in leisure.” I like to avoid the hardship, but that’s what makes it memorable too. Here are 11 suggestions to avoid the hardship part.
What makes for the perfect ride? High on the list is road condition, which goes without saying. You want pavement smooth as shark skin. No blemishes. No slippery tar snakes. You don’t want to see gravel, sand, holes, furniture, roadkill. If the road condition is stellar the weather is secondary. You can’t control the weather, but you can make choices on where to find good asphalt.
Drivers Many a good ride is spoiled by slow, indecisive, lost, distracted or just plain bad, drivers. Q-tips can be annoying but at least they are reliable. Reliably slow. I like to steer clear from vehicles in flimsy shape or disrepair: tailpipe dragging; windows covered by plastic bag and duct tape. Cars in flimsy shape drifting sideways, their struts and shocks blown out. Steer clear, steer clear, steer clear. Or ride at your own risk, which is a gross understatement no matter how you look at cars.
Traffic Easily the most annoying part of motorcycling. Traffic, less of it, is one silver lining that Covid-19 has brought to our foot pegs. Unoccupied roads, sleepy activity, closed strip-malls. Every morning feels like a Sunday. Another annoyance to a ride is too many lights. This is why the Blue Ridge Parkway is so grand: no stopping for 430-plus miles. Like the road that time forgot.
Patience Of the very few upsides to aging, one benefit to getting older seems be a higher tolerance for patience. Regardless, it’s still impossible for me to avoid a rolling stop. I just can’t stop fully at stop signs. Must be the rider’s disease. I’m lacking the only antidote to traffic, which is patience.
BACKROADS • MAY 2021
Population Density I don’t mind riding through towns as long as they don’t exist. I don’t know about you, but I find it very hard to enjoy a motorcycle when I’m riding through New York City, London, or Tokyo. Not that I’ve ever ridden to those places, mind you, but I can easily imagine frustration, confusion, stress. This is why riding in the state of Maine is a sublime experience. Ain’t nothing there but roads and trees.
Police States In Massachusetts, you can count upon police presence to be ubiquitous, like taxes and shitty healthcare. High density states have the most enforcement. It’s easy to love the police when your house gets burglarized. It’s easy to hate the police when they pull you over. Many a good, sweeping ride has been overturned by police. In the back of your mind, they’re likely a source of anxiety. But I must admit, when I accidently happen to cruise by a cop while riding legal, I feel good! Phew. Dodged a bullet.
Leaving it to chance Do you leave your journeys to chance? Yes, sometimes that can lead to unexpected surprises and worth the tax you’ll pay. You need to get lost to know where you’ve been, right? Ahh, the thrill of discovery. Unexpected curvy roads are rare; dead ends, construction zones and detours are not. Lack of route planning will likely lead you to chain store strip mall retailer hell with endless motor-overheating traffic lights.
Route Planning A well-planned ride can run into bad weather, but bad weather can’t spoil a well-planned ride. Planning involves many things. How long before you break and where? If you’re in Bangladesh, you probably want to stop every
Page 45 20 minutes to hydrate. Think ahead about a safe place to dismount and a relaxing place to rest.
Good Bike & Gear Many things make for a good ride. But a faulty machine will never make for a perfect ride. I once had a 4-cylinder with a pair of cooling fans. One of the fans gave out, the bike over-heated and fluid spilled out. I should’ve worried, but I didn’t. The excess heat ended up melting the seal on the steering dampener, causing it to leak oil. Do we need to state the obvious? Maintenance is key.
Frequent Breaks A tour is a consecutive ride -- a string of rides tied end to end. When you average 200-300 backroad miles a day, for me, fatigue sets in by Day 3. Day 4 should be a low-mileage day: say the distance between your bed and the beer vault. I find it helpful to drink a late-afternoon Red Bull to help shake off the doldrums. Pay attention to your state of mind. A dull mind makes for a sloppy ride.
Distraction Elimination I believe every distraction – even the tiniest -- should be eliminated. Velcro that isn’t working to close your sleeve where it meets your glove. Boots too slippery for being too worn out. Ear plugs dried up like prunes. Back pain, neck pain, butt pain: ergonomics gone haywire. Cables dangling. Something mysterious banging against your helmet. Too cold, too hot, too wet. No distractions equal a safer, more chill ride. A bee in your bonnet. A thorn in your side. E’nuff said. I never expected to cover all the bases in finding tips that make for a perfect ride. I’m still looking. Apart from riding with friends and loved ones, what makes a perfect ride for you? ,
BACKROADS • MAY 2021
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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
JESSE LUGGAGE • ADVENTURE MOTORCYCLE LUGGAGE SYSTEM
‘Jesse Luggage has been pushed, pulled and tested world-wide by riders from all corners of the globe. It is the ultimate adventure motorcycle luggage system for all riders. Using top grade materials our focus is strength, endurance, and longevity. The Jesse Luggage systems allows for more volume in a sleek profile that provides a tight seal along the gaskets that forces away dirt and water, keeping your gear safe and dry. From weekend rides to that round-the-world trip of a lifetime this is the luggage for you.’ That is a quote from Jesse Luggage own web site. I have been a big fan of Al Jesse’s original creation for many years. As with all products they have their downfalls and their highpoints. But, I still return again and again. And, it ain’t cheap either kids… But you get what you pay for! When I bought my new 2020 BMW R1250 GS I really thought I would be able to get by with the stock luggage that BMW sells – at almost the same price. But it was not to be. Unlike many, I am very used to having exactly what I want where I want it to be. My luggage is my office on wheels. I need real estate that makes Backroads work. Cameras, computers and everything else that I drag along on each and every ride. So, as saddened by the fact that BMW’s luggage was not up to the task, I needed more and knew I would have to go the Jesse route, with a set of 10” Challenger Panniers. These bad boys are constructed from 2mm,
5052 aluminum and have a sturdy new latch. They are powder-coated inside and out and have a capacity of 42 liters pipe-side and 51 liters full-side. Are they heavy? Just a tad more than the stock bags – but they are cavernous. In addition to the huge capacity, these bags also have a wonderful top storage space that allows for all sorts of hidden treasure. Ride with me…. I have it all. I also installed the 10” Lid Rack Set which gives me extra contact points for bungees, straps, etc. If I was honestly doing a round the world tour I might go for softer bags – but for here in the States, there are no better hard-luggage available. Jesse Luggage has gotten better and better over the years. And, if you want solid bags – there is no reason to look anywhere else! You can see their full line at JesseLuggage.com
BACKROADS • MAY 2021 Industry Infobites
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Last year, the nationwide lockdown to battle the pandemic began during the last weekend of Daytona Bike Week, and a year later the country is finally beginning to open for business. There are still health concerns, and signs encouraging social distancing and mask-wearing were posted everywhere, but hopefully, the successful turnout will signal better times to come as more and more events find their way back onto the ride calendar.
FRANCE BANS LANE-SPLITTING; MOTORCYCLISTS PROTEST IN THE THOUSANDS Lane-splitting was never “legal” in France, but some urban roadways in Paris, Bordeaux, Marseille & Lyon trialed the practice over a five-year test period from 2016-2021; and following some “disappointing results” the country has now banned it, much to the chagrin of French riders who are protesting the move.
signal, filtering remains ‘prohibited’ and as of February 1st riders could be fined and potentially even lose their license for weaving through traffic in France now.
SAVE MOTORSPORTS SEMA (Specialty Equipment Market Association) is challenging the EPA’s motorsports regulations in court, arguing against the federal agency’s contention that the Clean Air Act does not allow any street vehicle - cars, trucks, or motorcycles - to be converted into a racing vehicle used solely for competition. A recent lawsuit between the Environmental Protection Agency and an aftermarket manufacturer, Gear Box Z, is the agency’s latest action against racing. In the lawsuit, the EPA again maintains that once a vehicle has been certified as a street vehicle, it cannot be converted for racing even if that vehicle is trailered to the track and is never driven on public roads. The SEMA Action Network says the EPA’s position left them with no choice but to strike back, filing an amicus brief in court arguing that the Clean Air Act does not apply to certified vehicles used exclusively on the track. “As racers and fans know well, members of Congress introduced legislation to confirm what had already been understood for the previous 45 years: that the CAA did not apply to vehicles modified for racing use only,” according to a SAN statement. Hundreds of thousands of enthusiasts have since contacted Congress urging passage of the “Recognizing the Protection of Motorsports Act” (RPM Act).
MONTANA LEGALIZES LANE-SPLITTING
On February 20, following the end of the filtering experiment, the French motorcyclists’ organization FFMC (Fédération Française des Motards en Colère) put 20,000 angry motorcyclists in the streets to demand the legalization of filtering between lanes of slow-moving or stopped traffic, and the government is ready to listen to the bikers. While waiting for the signing of the decree which will give it the starting
Montana Governor Greg Gianforte signed Senate Bill 9 into law on March 3, which will allow motorcycles to “filter” through stopped and slow-moving vehicles beginning October 1, 2021. Lane splitting, lane sharing or filtering… whatever it’s called, Montana now joins California and Utah in legally recognizing the practice that allows motorcyclists to maneuver through traffic. Sponsored by state Senator Russ Tempel (R-SD14) and state Representative Barry Usher (R-HD40), S.B. 9 defines “lane filtering” as “the act of overtaking and passing another vehicle that is stopped or traveling at a speed, not in excess of 10 miles an hour in the same direction of travel and in the same lane.” While controversial and contentious, even amongst motorcyclists, a UC Berkeley study confirmed that lane-splitting is less dangerous for motorcyclists than being stopped in traffic. , Whatchathinkin’
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Smoky Mountains of North Carolina. We found this out after we decided to hold our Summer Squeeze August 16-19 so any Backroads’ readers who were planning on attending will have to find a Stargate to get them from North Carolina to Vermont overnight. That or you can go for your Saddlesore 1000 and rest up with your friends at the Gray Ghost and Kitzhof when you arrive – we’ll have a cold brew ready for you. No matter where you go or what you do, this year will certainly bring better opportunities for everyone to get out, visit friends and family and make up for those lost miles of 2020. The new season is dawning – LET’S GO! ,
Visit our NEWLY UPDATE Website
www.backroadsusa.com
BACKROADS • MAY 2021
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UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR MAY 2021 15-16 • New Sweden BMW Riders New Sweden 450. Join 100 fellow riders on 450 miles of amazing backroads through the Delaware Valley area. Enjoy a delightful evening meal, tire kicking and storytelling at the campground. Wake to fresh coffee and hot breakfast before returning to Cherry Hill finishing stop. Start: Cycle Gear, 2070 Rte. 70 east, Cherry Hill, NJ / Finish: PJ Wheilhans Pub, 1854 Rte. 70 east, Cherry Hill, NJ • Full details on website: 450.nsbmwr.com 16-22 • BACKROADS ‘Time of Your Life’ Spring Rally. A week’s worth of great riding, historic lodging and exploration. See full details on page 47. Make your reservations today as rooms are limited. Questions: 973-948-4176 or editor@backroadsusa.com 23 • New London Motorcycle Club proudly presents the 14th Annual Blessing on the Waterfront at the New London Waterfront Park, New London, CT. 11am-3pm. Vendors, food trucks, music by Branded-Country That Rocks. $10 per bike, free to walk-in public. Donations support the New London Covenant Shelter and Waterford Country School. For more details: newlondonmotorcycleclub.com 28-30 • 31st Charter Oak Rally • The Connecticutt River Valley BMW Riders welcome you to the scenic shores of beautiful Crystal Pond Park in Eastford, the ‘quiet corner’ of Connecticut. Camping, showers, pretty country roads, door prizes and four meals served in our spacious dining hall, including our famous Friday night chili This year we’ll have a ride to Revolutionary War sites in eastern CT. For more information please email: rally@crvbmw.org
JUNE 2021 12-20 • Laconia Motorcycle Week, Laconia, NH • Often referred to as the Oldest National Motorcycle Rally, these roots reach back to the summer of 1916, when a Gypsy Tour gathered for several days at Weirs Beach on the southern shores of Lake Winnipesaukee • www.LaconiaMCWeek.com 16 • Rutt’s Hut ‘Ripper’ Old Bike Night Ride-In Show sponsored by Bergen HarleyDavidson. All calssics 1996 and older welcome. Entries arrive between 5-6:30pm. Rain 24-27 • Thunder in the Valley Motorcycle Rally, Johnstown, PA. All Bikes Welcome! For full details visit: johnstownthunder.com • 800-237-8590 24-27 • BMW MOA International Rally, Great Falls, Montana • www.BMWMOA.org
JULY 2021 23-25 • 5th Annual Soggy Bottom MotoFest, Port Matilda, PA. 3-Day Adventure and Dual Sport Rally. Registration includes 4 ADV/Dual Sport rides with GPS files, 5 meals (beer included), live music, event t-shirt, vendors. On-site camping available with hot water showers. Registration available online now: www.kissellmotorsports.com
What’s Happening 30-8/1 • BMW MOA Getaway at Skytop, PA • BMWMOA.org • 864-438-0962
AUGUST 2021 12-15 • BMW RA ‘Game of Roads’ National Rally, Waynesville, NC • They come to this quiet valley nestled in smoky mountains to learn from sages and magicians, to outfit their steeds with glistening new farkles, to renew bonds with old compatriots, and to make new ones. But most of all, they come to ride, to feel the curvature of the earth, to lean into the unknown, to slay dragons and snakes, and to play the Game of Roads. • Visit BMWRA.org for info and to register. 16-18 • BACKROADS SUMMER SQUEEZE. We’re heading back to West Dover, VT for a few days of kickin’ back and riding new and old familiar roads. Watch for details on our rally site: www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html and Facebook page 20-22 • Progressive IMS Outdoors • Goebbert’s Farm, Pingree Grove, IL. The newly rebranded tour, previously known as the Progressive International Motorcycle Shows (IMS), will provide exciting hands-on experiences. Tickets go on sale April 22 and more details will be available then • motorcycleshows.com
SEPTEMBER 2021 3-5 • Progressive IMS Outdoors • Brooklyn Army Terminal, Brooklyn, NY. The newly rebranded tour, previously known as the Progressive International Motorcycle Shows (IMS), will provide exciting hands-on experiences. Tickets go on sale April 22 and more details will be available then • motorcycleshows.com 6-16 • SheADV/Women’s Motorcyclist Foundation Inc. DIRTY for GOOD Adventure Rider Training/Fundraising Tour with Northeast Backcountry Discovery Route. For further details visit womensmotorcyclistfoundation.org • email Sue.Slate@ womensmotorcyclistfoundation.org or text Sue @ 585-415-8230 for a return call. 10-12 • Progressive IMS Outdoors • Carlisle Fairgrounds, Carlisle, PA. The newly rebranded tour, previously known as the Progressive International Motorcycle Shows (IMS), will provide exciting hands-on experiences. Tickets go on sale April 22 and more details will be available then • motorcycleshows.com 17-19 • BMW MOA Getaway at Sugarbush, Warren, VT • BMWMOA.org 20-21 • CLASS returns to Virginia International Raceway, VA and BACKROADS will be heading back once again. Plan to improve your skill with some of the best instructors in the business at one of the nicest facilities around. Follow us on Facebook or check our Rally webpage for more details on travel to and from the track. To book your space visit CLASSRides.com • Reservations at VIR virnow.com/lodging. 21-25 • NEW AMERICADE DATES. America’s Largest Touring Rally brings the 38th Annual Americade to the Fall, with the great Adirondack foliage and cooler temps. Make your plans to join the gathering of the annual ride to Lake George • Questions? 518-798-7888 • www.americade.com 30-10/3 • Horizons Unlimited Virginia Travellers Meeting, Holiday Lake 4-H Camp, Appomattox, VA. For seasoned travellers or complete novices. For full details and registration, visit www.horizonsunlimited.com/events/virginia-2021
OCTOBER 2021 8-10 • Progressive IMS Outdoors • James L. Ward Agriculture Ctr, Lebanon, TN. The newly rebranded tour, previously known as the Progressive International Motorcycle Shows (IMS), will provide exciting hands-on experiences. Tickets go on sale April 22 and more details will be available then • motorcycleshows.com 29-31 • Progressive IMS Outdoors • Georgia Int’l Horse Park, Conyers, GA. The newly rebranded tour, previously known as the Progressive International Motorcycle Shows (IMS), will provide exciting hands-on experiences. Tickets go on sale April 22 and more details will be available then • motorcycleshows.com