2010
Vol. 16 No. 11
es ur
Motorcycle TourMagazine
Riding Adv en f t so
Ye ar
M
le cyc r o ot
l ave r T s,
re ntu e v d &A
NOVEMBER
0 0 2 1 R F V
s e v i L d n e The Leg Backroads 15th Anniversary Rally Issue Fling in Fontana Fall Fiesta in Vermont Spring Break 2011 Update
W H A T ’ S M O N T H LY C O L U M N S
I N S I D E F E AT U R E S
FREE WHEELIN’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
BACKROADS 15 ANNIVERSARY FLING IN FONTANA . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
WHATCHATHINKIN’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
WHEELS THROUGH TIME MUSEUM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
BACKROADS FALL FIESTA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
ON THE MARK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
SPRING BREAK 2011 UPDATE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
BACKLASH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
CONNIE AND THE CHOCOLATE FACTORY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53
THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 INDUSTRY INFOBITES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 BIG CITY GETAWAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
M OTO R CYC L E R E V I E W S 2011 HONDA VFR1200 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 2011 SUZUKI GSX-R MODELS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
PRODUCT REVIEWS
WE’RE OUTTA HERE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
SCHUBERTH C3 AND C3W HELMETS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
BLUETOOTH COMMUNICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil ~ Publishers Contributors Ralph Angelo Jr., Alisa Clickenger, Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Tony Lisanti, Brady Steffl, Tim Wineland, Dr. Seymour O’Life
Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure
BACKROADS • POB 317, Branchville NJ 07826 Phone 973.948.4176 • Fax 973.948.0823 • email editor@backroadsusa.com • web www.backroadsusa.com For Advertising Sales Information: 973-948-4176
BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2010. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.
NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
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FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN
IT’S REVENUE TIME AGAIN
For those of you who read Backroads each month you know that one of the things that really gets us going is towns and regions that have turned their police force into revenue generating machines. While our recent dealings with local law enforcement left us very impressed - yes, they caught the miscreants that robber our home - so many good police are being used to simply write tickets and raise cash. I recently had this release come across my desk... “In the current economic downturn, cash-strapped states across the U.S. are charging huge fines for speeding violations and other traffic infractions. All across America, legislators have one eye on road safety and the other on depleted coffers, and depending on where you live a speeding ticket can cost from under a hundred dollars to a couple thousand or more, reports AOL Autos. Drivers caught speeding in the states of Georgia, Illinois, North Carolina, Nevada and New Hampshire all are liable to be fined up to $1000, at a judge’s discretion, for a first-time speeding offense, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. The severity of the financial penalty also may depend upon the number of miles above the speed limit when clocked and the number of points on a driver’s license, or if the offense occurred near a school or road works. A driver’s license may also be suspended, their vehicle impounded, or they may face jail time. Some states including Michigan, Texas and New Jersey, operate under socalled “driver responsibility” laws, which, in some cases, can result in a further fine of up to $1000 leveled a year after the conviction. Virginia, which
until 2008 had some of the strictest penalties for speeders, repealed its driverresponsibility laws last year after a public outcry. Georgia, meanwhile, has just voted to add $200 to the fine of what it terms “Superspeeders,” who travel more than 10 mph over the speed limit. Other states with fines of up to $500 — which in many cases is then compounded with additional court fees — include Maryland, Missouri and Oregon.” I love that ...Superspeeders; at just 10 miles over the limit. So if you are moving along at a safe 65 in a 55 zone, Georgia will label you a “Superspeeder?” What next paint a scarlet “S” on your helmet? Maybe a cape? What really bothers me is so many riders and drivers don’t make a bigger stink about this. They repealed the Driver Responsibility Laws in Virginia and that is a Police State if there ever was one. So you ask, what is Driver Responsibility? Well, we all know that if you have a bad driving record you will be fined for the offenses and then it will cost you insurance surcharges in addition to the fines. But, with Driver Responsibility Laws the state refers qualifying offenses to the state’s Treasury department for collection. They come up with a figure which is in addition to everything you have paid already and send you a bill. If you do not pay it in whatever time they say poof! - your driving privileges are gone until you do. Okay, am I the only one saying this is madness. The folks in charge are so detached from regular folk it is a bad joke. New Jersey just discontinued inspections and the little registration stickers that go on the license plate (Continued on Page 11, Col. 1)
875 Middlesex Ave. (Rt. 27) Metuchen, NJ 08840
www.TriumphMetuchen.com
(732) 462-4881
NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
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W H ATC H AT H I N K I N ’ SHIRA KAMIL
DESERT ISLAND DISC
Those who grew up in the New York area may remember a segment on WNEW-FM radio called Desert Island Discs. Apparently this was based on the BBC Radio 4 program started way back in 1942 where folks were asked, if stranded on a desert island, which eight pieces of music would be along for the long haul, in addition to one book and one inanimate luxury item of no use in escaping or communicating with the outside world. Just for some more useless knowledge, this is (still being broadcast over the pond) the longest running factual program in the history of radio. I’d like to propose a different version of this idea. If all sources to replace those irreplaceable items needed for everyday riding comfort were suddenly gone, what could you not be without on your daily ride? I’m not talking about gasoline, oil or tires, but those things that you reach for in a pinch. Over the past several years, priorities may have shifted. Where a few years ago one might say ‘Give me a full set of maps/atlas/gazateer and I’m good to go’ today you might hear ‘The latest GPS unit will get me there no matter what.’ When asked what bikes we have in the barn, I’ll tell people this, that and the other and the Kawasaki KLR650, which is our doomsday ride, fixable pretty much anywhere due to its basic design. If it truly is a Mad Max situation, I’ll take the maps and KLR any day. So, what will you find on your bike and in your tankbag that will never be forgotten? A good set of tools is pretty much a given. While I have just the basic that comes with the bike, pretty poor set I might add, my workhorse/pitboy/consummate travel companion Brian has a box full of almost anything one might need. Duct tape is pretty much a given and I’ll even leave that out of the eight-count allowed in the game. A really good tire plug kit is essential - I highly recommend the Stop N Go kit. We have been saved several times on the road due to packing this little gem. One aside - always remember to replace your CO2 cartridges after use. To accompany the fix, make sure you are packing a good tire gauge and something to inflate the newly flattened tire. Here I’d recommend one of Roadgear’s digital tire gauges and the Cyclepump tire inflator available through BestRest Products. Let’s get on to less techy items. I will not be without some sort of shield cleaner in my tankbag. For years I’ve carried a Wee Willy filled with simple soap and water and a microfiber cloth. While always a titter is heard at the
mention of this item, once used folks will say ‘Hey, that’s a great thing to carry’. Sure, there may be better solution for cleaning out there, but you’ll never be without water and some form of soap for refilling. Personally, I really rely on the music I listen to on my journeys to get me through the day. While I’ve switched over to putting this on my Garmin, there are always times when that’s just not available. I’ve taken to loading my tuneage on a little iPod mini that holds more than enough for a good long ride. To make this listening that much better, I’ve been using a set of custom earplugs complete with stereo wiring from Now Hear This. Not only does this block the wind noise and such, which will ultimately damage your hearing, the sound from these little gems is incredible. The final two indispensable items really apply to any activity: a flashlight and Leatherman or Swiss army knife. Sure, I guess you can put these in the first group, but they are so necessary to every aspect of life that they are more than just mere tools. We just returned from the Chincoteague Oyster Festival where I had the pleasure of waiting on line with Scott. Scott is a Boy Scout leader and, while we were simply attending a benign oyster festival, his belt was laden with more tools than you’d find at Ace Hardware. While giving me a tour of his toolbelt, he said that the two most important items were - you guessed it - his flashlight and Leatherman. There are certain sundries that occupy a space in my tankbag and are constantly replenished: lip balm, sunscreen, tissues, some sort of antihistamine (when traveling with someone allergic to bees this is a must) and a tiny bottle of Tabasco sauce. For my reading choice I’ll go with Rand McNally and the luxury item would probably be a good pair of sunglasses and I’m ready to roll. Try this little game with your riding buddies and see what turns up. It’s always interesting to see what is most important to one’s riding. See ya on the road. For more information on stuff you’ve just read: Desert Island Discs • www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b006qnmr Wee Willy • www.weewilly.com
Roadgear Tire Gauges • www.roadgear.com/Accessories/Digital_Tire_Gauges/
BestRest CyclePump • www.bestrestproducts.com/c-10-cyclepump.aspx Now Hear This • www.plugup.com
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
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nally figure out you missed it, anyway? A couple of tanks ago?” Of course, getting lost can also suck (as I’m sure you well know) such as when you’re running low on fuel, and a storm is coming, and you really don’t BILL HEALD know where the hell you are (other than, say, the state of Nevada). That’s a pretty lonely feeling, and I’m going back in time to the point where cell DON’T FOLLOW ME; I’M LOST phones were still just on the horizon, bordering on witchcraft. I even think there weren’t any roadside assistance services for motorcycles yet, either, al‘Twas not too long ago when I had to conthough truth be told they were just around the corner. My laptop computer at front myself in the mirror (always a painful exthe time was a notebook, and my camera shot this stuff called film and was ercise) and ask the image I was staring at a serious question: “Dude, do you mechanical in nature (except for the internal light meter, which completely tend to get lost more than, like, normal people?” ran off of those all-too-easy to lose button batteries. Sheesh). Here’s the thing: ever since I first loaded up a motorcycle and went on a To say times have sure changed is, I know, quite an understatement. It long trip (I believe it was a journey from Ft. Worth, Texas, to North Hollynever ceases to amaze me how GPS has been adopted by pretty much every wood, California, where I had moved), I was really good at meticulously form of transportation so quickly, and how folks have become so dependent planning my route. I had this miraculous creation called a tank bag strapped it in such a short span of time. I don’t own a dedicated GPS unit, although on to the modest teardrop tank of my Magna, and it had a lovely plastic window I recently had a Garmin zumo 665 to play on top where you could easily put a road ften these little detours would yield some sort with for a while and I was blown away at map (remember those? I finally got really of treasure, like a very odd reptile farm, or a how well-designed it was for use on pretty good at folding them up, and shortly theremuch any motorcycle. These guys really poorly concealed UFO crash site, or even a after they became obsolete. Damn). After thought of everything, including a really a while I devised a slightly different sysphoto shoot with scantily clad models. solid and versatile mounting system and a tem where I would create my own maps smart-sized touchscreen that is easy to use even when wearing heavy gloves. the night before that were the right scale I needed for a particular leg of the As much as I was impressed with it, though, I don’t see myself getting one ride, and in drawing up these maps from my handy-dandy Travel Atlas I anytime soon. Why not? Have I become some kind of moto-Luddite that’s awould learn the route and actually memorize part of it so it made the map fear of newfangled electronic wonders? much easier to follow. Brilliant, eh? I don’t think I am a person who is determined to live in the past. What I I think it was a mildly enlightened methodology. However, despite all this think it is, though, is that when I’m touring especially I always kind of liked careful preparation I still managed to get lost. It wouldn’t happen ever day, the way I did it with my maps and occasionally ventures in to the wrong part but when it did I could usually attribute it to missing a turn because I was disof town. I do have an iPhone that’s always with me, so now if I do run astray tracted by something (like a huge truck doing something really stooooopid I can usually find myself quickly with the excellent GPS it has on board. I right in front of me, or something like that). Often these little detours would also have no fewer than seven different weather services, and a few restauyield some sort of treasure, like a very odd reptile farm, or a poorly conrant guides and such. It takes superb pictures, and even shoots HD video. It’s cealed UFO crash site, or even a photo shoot with scantily clad models. Often all there in my pocket if I need it, which I have to admit adds a measure of it would also mean interacting with the locals, and hearing such gems as, security without messing with the romance of still doing things the old-fash“Son, you can’t get there from here,” or “If you see the Ace Hardware, then ioned way. Getting lost is something I just do, even though I’m starting to run you’ve gone way too far.” Or, there’s always my favorite: “Questa? Are you out of excuses as to how I managed it! kidding me? Friend, you are hell-and-gone from Questa. When did you fi-
P O S TC A R D FROM THE HEDGE
I particularly like that color.
Montgomeryville Cycle Center!
I’m getting mine from
O
NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
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ure and I’ve noted that the cost of the room isn’t necessarily indicative of service or quality. I can turn down my own sheets, thank you, and not pay for the privilege. Why is it that the more expensive the room, the more likely it MARK BYERS is that they will charge you for internet access? Or breakfast? Every room at which we stayed in Scotland, from above the Argyll Pub in Ullapool to the LAYIN’ IT DOWN upstairs of the guy’s house in Arisaig came complete with a “ full, cooked Scottish breakfast” that would last you most of the day. I’ve paid a lot more The dreadful sound of metal rending on asphalt? for a lot less. The showers of sparks thrown skyward by expenThere’s a human element to the smaller, more modest places as well. The sive alloys being torn asunder by unyielding pavement? Yeah...that’s not the of the little place with screened porches in Long Lake, NY regaled us owner subject. I’m talking about finding a place to lay your BODY down, not your with stories of working at the Mt. Washington Motel. When we first pulled bike. Sometimes it can be a lot easier to do the former than the latter, but my up to the Gray Ghost in Vermont and a black lab bounded out the door, I told wife and I have been pretty successful despite travelling largely without Betsy “I’m going to like this place.” I did and we were just as waylaid by the reservations (literally and figuratively). charms of our hosts Emma and Sophia at breakfast the next morning as we Most people are shocked to find that we seldom have reservations when we were by Magnus’ blueberry pancakes. I’ll take the make one of our trips, like our most recent one around icely-tended flowers out front Gray Ghost over the Sofitel in downtown Philly any Scotland, but we’ve found that reservations are a blessare usually an indicator of a day: it’s less expensive, more charming, and the ing and a curse. Knowing you have a place to stay for well-tended room. If it looks food’s better. the night is a comfort, but it also ties you inextricably seedy, it probably is. So far, we’ve been very lucky in travelling without (or financially) to a destination regardless of something Sometimes it’s like finding a prom date: when at first you don’t reservations. interesting or someplace charming you find along the way. We prefer succeed, lower your standards! But I can truthfully say that we’ve yet to stay “serendipity touring” wherein we go until we’re tired (or charmed) and start in a place that wasn’t clean, dry, and safe (which is more than I can say of my looking for a place to stay. It’s a gamble, but so far we haven’t crapped out. business travels). Sometimes people take pity on a middle-aged couple, parWhen we’re on the moto, our first choice is a mom & pop motel or B&B ticularly a foreign one, with no place to stay: we’ve had some wonderful exalong a back road that’s simply clean, preferably with a restaurant or diner periences, including a hotel clerk in Stirling, Scotland who found us a room close at hand. We go a lot by “curb appeal” because it’s been our experience at another hotel and offered to have their porter carry our bags. Frequently, that a well-tended exterior is indicative of a similar interior. Nicely-tended the locals know each other and will send business as a professional courtesy, flowers out front are usually an indicator of a well-tended room. If it looks so even if they’re full, ask them for a recommendation: that netted us a seaseedy, it probably is. side room in Portree, Skye. With no reservations, you can’t be too picky, however. I remember stopWe’re not crazy: 4th of July weekend in Bar Harbor? Reservations. But if ping at a very modest-looking, 8-room, wood-sided place in St. Anne, Nova it’s just a regular weekend or weekday and we’re on the road in the middle Scotia and having the proprietor ask us if we wanted to see a room. At that of nowhere, we want the freedom to stop just about anywhere without the point, it was late and my two requirements were “clean and available” and it specter of a cancellation fee hanging over our heads. Someday we may end was both. In fact, it had a beautiful view up St. Anne’s Bay and a great restauup sleeping under a picnic table or in someplace resembling the Bates Motel rant next door. We nudged the big RT under the eaves and had a wonderful from “Psycho” but so far, we haven’t had any reservations about layin’ it evening. down. I’ve stayed in a lot of places around the world for both business and pleas-
ON THE MARK
N
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
BACKLASH
Brian and Shira, Enjoyed your article on your post-Americade visit to Ottawa and Quebec and hope you got a thorough tour of all the local parkways. BTW, Brian, I just read ‘The Professional’ by Robert B. and have to disagree with the observation in it that white guys with shaved heads don’t look good. It’s working for you just fine, guy. Dave from the Great White North I was recently given your September issue, first time I’ve seen your magazine. Enjoying it so far, looks like a nice publication. I looked over some of the ads. I am looking for an experienced shop that might specialize in H-D suspension. I know of plenty of places that work metric suspensions, but not sure who/where might be the best to make some recommendations regarding a 2008 Dyna. I would be grateful if your staff might make some suggestions. I live in Clinton (Hunterdon County). Thanks, Doug Doug, Suspensions work the same regardless of where the bike was made. It’s the law. I would recommend Washington Cycle Works. They set up our shocks and did an awesome job. Like day and night. www.washingtoncycleworks.com/ They do many track bikes, but it’s all the same stuff... What works on the track will work on the street HD, Honda, whatever! Dear Backroads, I wanted to take this opportunity to thank you and your company for your donation to the Curve Cowboy Reunion 2010 Silent Auction. Because of your donation we had a successful Silent Auction. The auction raised $11,000. Along with private contributions and a number of memorial donations, we gave our charity, Emerge Family Advocates, a check for $25,000.
Page 9
LETTERS TO THE EDITOR So thank you from the bottom of our hearts for your wonderful donation. We hope to have your support at future Curve Cowboy Reunion Silent Auctions. Sincerely, Marilyn J Fisher - CCR Silent Auction Chair 2010 Brian, You’re a soothsayer! Man you really got it right with the dealer stuation! Took a spin today and decided to stop off at my local dealer, Island Powersports, and maybe pick up some oil. Well it is no more....it is an ex-dealer....it has left this mortal coil! I was there in March and all seemed well with the world, had a new owner take over about 2 years ago and he really had the place looking good, he was a gentleman too, a fellow enthusiast. And it was 10 min from my house! Oh well guess I’m schlepping to Jersey for service now, at least its relatively close. Found out the dealer where I bought my last Connie went under too, Brunswick Powersports. Guess this damn economy really is hurting the industry. Explains why Honda has cut back so much. Hell they still haven’t updated their dealer info and show the joint still open. At least Yamaha and Suzuki are on the ball! Had a fine time in Vermont, rain be damned! Always a pleasure to hang with you folks. I was glad someone else got my “Plug Away” SNL reference (aka “if I were a bee...”). Always got a kick out of that skit. Terry Faherty Hi Guys, Of course, you two get another big “Thank You” for putting together the Vermont trip. Weather wasn’t too good but the pleasures of getting to see the “extended family” again more than made up for anything nature could have come up with. Always a great time. Thanks for everything. John Petrocelli (Continued on Page 11, Column 2)
NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
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THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD Summer’s closing up shop, even in the south. I for one, a transplanted Minnesota boy, can’t complain. In two days the forecast changed from 97 degrees to 65 accompanied by needed rain. 88 degrees today, rain tomorrow. Of course, as the days shorten and fall weather becomes erratic, it’s time for the yearly reflection on the riding season. Invariably, it’s never as successful as planned. All those things planned in spring never happen and September is time to regret. To make up for that, there is a sense that you’ve got to grab the good days before they’re gone. Besides, Kelsie is off in Germany again, and I need to keep busy. It’s a good time to ride. The BMW F650 is waiting on plugs and a valve adjustment, which makes choosing a bike easier, at least until the Haynes manual actually shows up. (Oh the pitfalls of internet purchases) The Beemer is too damned easy to ride anyhow. You don’t need to manually adjust the idle screw or the choke, and it doesn’t die at idle. It doesn’t leak, it’s nimble, quiet, stops, and weighs about 125lbs less than the Honda CB550. But, truth be told, I don’t mind being forced to ride the Honda. She is, after all, my first 2-wheeled love. That’s probably why I waited two weeks to order the Haynes manual in the first place. Problem child that she is, she fired with just one kick. Plastic hat securely fastened, it’s off to cure September Syndrome. Most of my plans only get to the idea stage before I try to enact them. Today was no different, hand on the throttle and nowhere to go. I took the noisy beast past the college first. Not a bad stop. After all, motorcycling isn’t the only thing on the way out with cold weather. Today, sun dresses, tomorrow sweaters. If my wife is reading this somewhere, don’t worry honey. I saw a well-restored Karmann Ghia out, too, and girls or not, I almost twisted my head off trying to have a look. My priorities are still straight. Out of town and away from those distractions, the leaves are just starting to change. I wonder is the cause the colder nights or the extensive drought we’re in, again, this year? Either way, riding through back roads lined with leaves, it’s like a travel brochure. I wonder why I haven’t gotten out more this year. The inline four is solid and the road is open. Snaking through the hills, I drive past ‘Brokenback Mountain Road.’Yes, for real, ‘Brokenback Mountain Road.’ I laugh at the name, then remember one time when Raptor, a friend who recently passed, and I were out here. He pointed up that moun-
Brady Steffl
tain and said it was a good ride. Nowhere to go and no time like the present, me and the quarter-ton beast have at it. Going up was a hell of a lot of fun, but about half way up a jagged, gravel, mountain road it dawns on me, this may not have been the best of ideas. Raptor has had the last laugh. The weight of the bike, the huge rocks called a road, and the condition of the rear tire press on my mind. It also dawns on me that I have the perfect bike for this sort of thing sitting at home. with anti lock brakes and adjustable suspension just waiting on a valve adjustment. Eventually, I summit, and at the top there isn’t even a view. There is a spot barely big enough to turn around. Nice, Raptor, very nice. The decent begins. Coming back down was so much work it wasn’t even scary, though it should have been. Well, the times I almost pitched the bike, that was scary. Then I wondered how long it would be before someone found me with my leg crushed under the bike. I thought about using my shirt as a tourniquet. It
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BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
Page 11
was fun, the way hitting a beehive with a stick would be fun. At the bottom, I turned out and away from Raptor’s motorcycle mountain road of insanity. Haha, man, very funny. Great road, I almost died. Back on the asphalt, surrounded by mountain vistas and crisp leaves it’s not like I could be mad. I was all aglow with platitudes about rolling hills, golden fields and changing seasons. Next to a dry creek bed I stopped to examine the intensity of the drought. It was awash with yellow poplar leaves, but no water. I wonder why we’ve had so many droughts recently, and I worry about this whole global warming thing. is this dry bed our fault? I climb back on my big, old engine concerned, the irony is not lost on me. I suppose it’s the same every year. Autumn is a time to reflect and sometimes to regret. I think of things lost, opportunities missed, and the close of another riding season. This time around I lost a good friend and will always
FREE WHEELIN’
(Continued from Page 4)
of your bike. Now the inspections we really don’t need as most rider take good care of their machines - but the registrations stickers; the same registration that just tripled a year or two back, well give me the sticker. As we roll into next year watch the abuse that will start whenever some local New Jersey law enforcement decides to pull any bike at anytime over just to see if “they are legally registered” because there are no more stickers to tell at a glance. And furthermore, try proving to a cop in another state that New Jersey doesn’t require inspections; nor registration stickers. I don’t need a crystal ball to see that this is going to snowball. Add in the states like California that now require all bikes to have EPA stamps on the exhaust. Hey, trust me when I say I want quiet motorcycles, but you go and try to find that stamp on some big touring rigs. The entire back of the machine will have to come off; it’s simply unenforceable. So fellow riders this time I will encourage you to actually make some noise - to your local and state politicians. Stand up against these sort of laws that are simply there to raise cash. Join and support the AMA. Make a stand. Make a difference.
remember this season for that. His death inspired me, though, and kept me from missing good opportunities, and for once, I can say I did almost everything I had planned. Besides, fall in Virginia is still wonderful. The hills burn with bright reds and yellows and the air cools to a tolerable temperature for a northerner. Besides, there is always next year, and maybe then I’ll get to that camping I missed, or maybe I’ll even get back to that mountain road with the right bike. But, even if I miss those opportunities, I can always fall back on the fact women have been wearing some variation of the sun dress forever, probably since the days of Rome, so there is always a reason to look forward to next year. BACKLASH
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Folks, I had a great ride to and from Vermont and a few miles in between the raindrops. Although weather may be unpredictable, I’ve learned that the people are interesting, fun and always manage to have a good time. With my new seat cushion I didn’t have a ‘Blazing Saddle’ for the ride home. Thank you for a great get together. Tom Dear Brian and Shira, We attended the Fall Fiesta and enjoyed meeting you both. Thanks for letting us tag along for the ride from the Vermont Country Store to Woodstock for lunch. We enjoyed the ride. Maybe the weather will be better next year. We are enclosing a donation for the charity you had shown the video at the rally. Ride safely. Greg & Judy Lombardi
Greg and Judy, We were happy to have you along - it’s always great meeting new folks; that’s what makes these get togethers we put on so much fun. And thank you for your generous donation to the Wellspring International Outreach. If anyone would like more information on this charity and how to make a donation, please visit www.wellspring-outreach.org
NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
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INDUSTRY INFOBITES IMTBIKE HAS A NEW LOOK
IMTBike, the largest and oldest motorcycle tour and rental company in Spain is changing its look. IMTBike was created in 1997 with the objective to organize motorcycle tours to show foreign travelers the beauty of Spain and establish its status as a motorcycling paradise. The first logo, created at that time, reflected this objective. As many of you already know, over the years IMTBike has been represented by a logo based on 4 basic elements: a castle, Don Quixote, a BMW motorcycle and a winding road. The castle represents the rich history of Spain as well as the “Paradors” (Castle hotels) where we stay during our tours and that offer the highest quality in lodging and gastronomy.
Don Quixote represents the intrepid and adventurous spirit of the customers who come to us with the desire to travel and discover the countless curves that shape our roads all over the country, riding an impeccable and fully equipped BMW motorcycle to fully enjoy the journey. As the years passed IMTBike grew and evolved and its logo evolved with it. The first office was based in Madrid. A little later IMTBike expanded to 2 other big cities: Barcelona and Seville. Now IMTBike also has offices in Malaga, Valencia, Bilbao and Santiago de Compostela., a total of 7 rental centers. In 2011 IMTBike will cross borders and will open its first operation outside of Spain, in Lisbon, Portugal. IMTBike now has a fleet of 100 new model BMW motorcycles always kept in perfect condition.
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News from the Inside Our tours span all the regions of Spain as well as Portugal, Morocco, France and Italy; and we have set our sights north towards the Alps next. In view of this growth of IMTBike, but still with the same passion for motorcycling and the same commitment to offer our customers the highest quality products and customer service, we have decided to create a brand new logo to better represent IMTBike’s more global, more modern image. IMTBike will also unify all its activities in a single web site: www.IMTBike.com. The site will have a new design, more dynamic and easier to navigate. All the information you need, be it about tours, rentals or motorcycle sales, will be available in this single site.
MASSACHUSETTS ENACTS RIDER TRAINING FOR JUNIOR MOTORCYCLISTS
The Massachusetts Motorcycle Association (MMA) announces that Senate Bill 2344, dubbed Ryan’s Bill, an “Act relative to assuring that motorcyclists between the ages of 16 and 18 are provided with adequate education relative to the proper safety and operation of a motorcycle.” has been signed into law by Governor Deval Patrick. Recognizing the additional burden formal training may require, MMA Legislative Director Rick Gleason states, “A weekend of formal training sets the stage for a lifetime of motorcycling enjoyment and the skills acquired through training can help a rider avoid a crash.” This new law does not make training mandatory, and only affects those under 18 who wish to earn their motorcycle license. MMA Chairman Dave Condon further clarifies that passage of Ryan’s Bill does not require a junior operator take a motorcycle training course. “A motorcycle permit in this state is good for two years. Therefore, a junior motorcycle operator can still ride on his\her permit beyond their 18th birthday, and take the road test offered by the Registry of Motor Vehicles.” Condon further stated, “The MMA was very careful in not taking anyone’s choice away or interfering with a parent’s right to decide what is best for their child.” Condon also pointed out that current state regulations require 40+ hours of formal training before a Junior Operator may obtain a license to operate an automobile.
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
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Motorcycle Rider Education Program (MREP) officials analyzed ten years of information from the Massachusetts RMV and found that just over 63% of those involved in fatal motorcycle accidents have never received any formal motorcycle rider training and 22.5% of motorcycle fatalities were from riders under the age of 21.
ROAD DEATHS DECLINE WORLDWIDE
fected streetbikes. Thousands of motorcyclists utilized the AMA website at AmericanMotorcyclist.com first to oppose the bill, and then to urge Schwarzenegger to reject it. “Many EPA labels are very difficult to locate on motorcycles,” Haris said. “This law could lead to a flurry of tickets for motorcyclists who have legal exhaust systems with EPA labels on their machines that can’t be easily seen. It’s unreasonable to expect a law enforcement officer to easily locate an EPA label, and it’s simply unfair to expect a motorcycle owner to partially dismantle an exhaust system along the roadside to prove the label exists.” Violators face fines of up to $100 for a first offense and up to $250 for subsequent offenses. Judges have the discretion to dismiss the fine for firsttime offenders if the violation is corrected.
Data published by an international transportation group revealed Britain has the lowest road death tally of 33 countries surveyed, topping the charts with just 3.8 deaths per 100,000 population, and the declining global fatality rate has been heralded as “a record decade for road safety.” The United Kingdom joins the Netherlands and Sweden as the countries with the safest roads, according to the report published by the Paris-based International Transport Forum, while Malaysia, Argentina and Greece rated CONGRESS EXPRESSES CONCERN WITH FEDERAL highest of the 33 countries detailed in the survey. The United States ranked MOTORCYCLE ROADSIDE CHECKPOINT GRANT PROGRAM 27th with a traffic fatality rate of 11.1, nearly three times higher than the UK. The report found motorcycle accidents in the UK were down 23%, despite US Representatives call for the suspension of Federally funded motorcya 45% increase in the number of motorcycles on the road. cle-only roadside checkpoints. US Representative James Sensenbrenner (WI) Figures for motorcycles figured badly in the worldwide survey, however, took the lead on a letter to Ray LaHood, Secretary of the United States Dewith huge rises in fatal crashes in Finland and Slovenia. On the flipside, bikepartment of Transportation, asking him to address the benefits of motorcycle related deaths dropped significantly in Portugal and Korea. only checkpoints. As previously announced, LaHood’s DOT recently asked The report found motorcycle deaths were on the rise in many developing for applications from law enforcement agencies to conduct federally funded countries. “These increases are only partly explained by the rise in the nummotorcycle-only roadside checkpoints. ber of motorcycles,” said Veronique Feypell-de La Beaumelle, ITF road The letter asks that Ray LaHood, Secretary of the United States Departsafety expert. (Continued on Page 15) ITF Secretary General Jack Short hailed the overall figures as “a record decade for road safety,” adding: New from Pocono Cycle & Service Center / Pocono Tractor and Equipment “Reducing fatalities around the world will be accelerated by rapid and effective transfer of knowledge, good practice and information from the best performing countries.”
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An 18-year U.S. Marine Corps veteran and his female passenger were thrown from a motorcycle when they veered off the road near Camp Lejeune, North Carolina. According to newspaper reports, both sustained painful injuries due to total lack of safety gear; no helmet, no gloves, no boots...and no clothes! The naked riders landed in a ditch, and the Marine was knocked unconscious and awoke to charges of DUI, reckless driving, driving without a license, license revoked, expired inspection, no insurance and no helmet. His passenger walked nearly a mile for help despite a broken arm and leg, but was only ticketed for failure to wear a helmet. Apparently, riding in the buff is not a traffic offence in Onslow County as neither were charged with exhibitionism or failure to exhibit common sense.
CALIFORNIA HAS NEW STATEWIDE LAW GOVERNING MOTORCYCLE SOUND
A new California law requires street motorcycles registered in the state and built on or after Jan. 1, 2013, to have an exhaust system label certifying the motorcycles meet federal sound limits, the American Motorcyclist Association reports. On Sept. 28, Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger signed into law Senate Bill 435, sponsored by Sen. Fran Pavey (D-Agoura Hills). While motorcycle manufacturers have been complying with the federal law since it was effective in 1983, the new law now makes it a state crime to operate any motorcycle registered in the state that was built on or after Jan. 1, 2013, that doesn’t have a federal Environmental Protection Agency exhaust system sound emissions label. In addition, the law requires aftermarket exhaust systems made on or after Jan. 1, 2013, to display the EPA sound emissions label, and therefore applies to individuals who seek to replace the exhaust system on af-
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NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
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Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s M Y S T E R I O U S A M E R I C A THE CURIOUS CASE OF PHINEAS GAGE CAVENDISH, VT
In the wide country that is Mysterious America we often come across tales and legends that boggle the mind. Some are natural, some are man made but some are an eerie combination of both. Ride with me my friends to the small town of Cavendish, Vermont and the curious case of Phineas Gage. The date was September 13, 1848 and along the tiny hamlet of Cavendish, more a group of houses than a town just east of Ludlow, the state was laying in the Rutland & Burlington Railroad, which would connect the two towns and open up a large swath of Vermont land to settlement. Workers were brought in from other parts of Vermont and its surrounding neighboring states to help complete the tough job through very rough terrain.
What happened on this warm day in September is equally frightening and incredible. Phineas Gage was a young foreman from New Hampshire. Solid at his job and well liked by his bosses and underlings alike Phineas was by all accounts a good guy and one that could be counted on. Right below the surface of the line they were grading was a strata of shale, which they routinely excavated with dynamite. Gage had just finished drilling a small bore hole and was lightly tamping in the stick of explosive with a 3 and half foot iron rode, that weighed some 13 lbs. As we like to say around here, what could possibly go wrong? The dynamite, not the safest thing to work with, exploded and the bar was shot through Phineas Gage’s skull, blowing under his cheek bone and rocketing through the top of his skull! Now you would think that would be the end of that - but in this case. Gage not only survived the devastating trauma to his noggin’ but never lost consciousness either. He was carried a half mile to a local doctor named
John Harlow, who slowly removed the iron rod and did his best to plug and patch the holes in Gage’s face and skull. The procedure took hours with Gage awake the entire time. He was kept for observation but according to Harlow, the man seemed to fully recover. Well, not really. As time went on this upright fellow took on a dark personality. Where he was once cheerful he was now downright arrogant. Where once a polite gentleman he now cussed up a storm. Phineas Gage had changed, and not in a good way. As the plaque says, ‘he was now erratic, irritable and profane’. Well wouldn’t you be a bit of all those if you had an iron rod blown through your skull? Although having no real lasting physical handicaps, mentally it was a dif-
Rip & Ride® THE CURIOUS CASE OF PHINEAS GAGE CAVENDISH, VT START: GRAY GHOST, RTE. 100, WEST DOVER, VT RTE. 100 NORTH RIGHT AT RTE. 103 IN LUDLOW (GREAT RESTAURANTS) BEAR LEFT AT SCENIC RTE. 131 GAGE MARKER JUST PAST POST OFFICE AND ACROSS FROM FIRE DEPT.
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
INDUSTRY INFOBITES
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ferent story. The railroad refused to hire their once valued employee and Gage eventually joined the Freak Show at Barnum’s Museum in New York. He worked a bit in South America and eventually settled in California where he died some twelve years later from acute epilepsy.
ment of Transportation, address the benefits of motorcycle-only checkpoints by October 13th. The letter goes on to encourage Mr. LaHood to suspend funding for National Highway Traffic Safety Administrator Strickland’s program.
The story itself is legendary in American Medical circles and eventually Doctor Harlow was able to exhume Gage’s body and retrieve his skull, which now sits in a glass case along with his life mask at the Warren Anatomical Museum, in Boston - but that will be another tale from this dark land we call Mysterious America. Today we can ride the bucolic hills and roads of Vermont and make a short pit stop in Cavendish to see the plaque telling the storyline of this amazing medical event. It sits in a small well-manicured park across from the Volunteer Fire Department and it was erected on the 150-year anniversary of the incident. Our ride this day will be an easy one from the Gray Ghost Inn, in West Dover, VT a place that many of our readers have come to know and love.
With the newly printed 2011 catalogue from Edelweiss Bike Travel you’ll discover all the great world tours available - 53 in all - including their 10 new destinations for 2011. SCANDINAVIA -The Viking Experience, an 11-day tour from Göteborg via Oslo, Stavanger and Bergen to Alesund. Experience a fascinating world of forests, fjords, mountains and glaciers. Experience the Adventure North Cape tour with unforgettable riding along the coast of Norway and along the Lofoten on the journey to the North Cape - every motorcyclists dream. RUSSIA - Discover the fascinating culture and history on Moscow to St. Petersburg tour where you’ll spend plenty of time in both of these cities. SPAIN/ PORTUGAL - Plenty of sun, little traffic and fantastic roads are what you’ll enjoy on the St. James Way tour, travelling through the northern parts of Spain and Portugal. Follow the pilgrim’s route and spend a rest day among fellow pilgrims in Santiago de Compostella. On Southern Europe’s Royal Spanish Vacation tour enjoy royal days in historic hotels on the border between Spain and Portugal. This is a motorcycling delicacy for these who won’t miss that touch of luxury whilst touring. SOUTH AMERICA - After the successful scouting tour in 2010 they’ve decided to go ahead with the Adventure Altiplano tour, a real adventure trip through the High Andes in Bolivia, Chile and Argentina. Of course you also have the opportunity to ride along the famous Ruota de la Muerte. The Adventure Machu Picchu tour now let’s you spend 2 rest days in the amazing Amazona National Forest Reservation, Tambopata. NEW ZEALAND - In 2011 you can take the long standing standard New Zealand tour with an extension or try the new Adventure North Island tour. Perhaps you’re more interested in the new Best of Australia tour where you can race along with kangaroos and other strange creatures. For more information on Edelweiss Bike Travel’s tours please visit www.edelweissbike.com.
EDELWEISS BIKE TRAVEL 2011 BROCHURE
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B I G C I T Y G E TA W AY Mark Byers
ROUTE 11 POTATO CHIPS 11 EDWARDS WAY • MOUNT JACKSON, VA 22842 1-800-294-SPUD • WWW.RT11.COM
Inspiration is strange: during Spring Break, we were having breakfast at the Picadilly Diner in Winchester when I spied a lone bag of potato chips boldly displaying the sign for US Route 11. I remembered having Route 11 Chips and recalled that not only were they excellent, but that they were made nearby. Suddenly, the day’s ride crystallized around a tasty destination. Before interstates, Route 11 was the main highway connecting Lake Champlain and New Orleans. Today, slower traffic glides past abandoned service stations, old motels, and the charming little town of Mt. Jackson, VA, home of Route 11 Potato Chips. The business was started in 1992
daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind by her father, but is now run by President Sarah Cohen and VP/business partner, Mike Connelly. It’s a motorcycle-friendly destination, as not only is Mt. Jackson in the middle of prime riding country, but both Mike and Sarah ride, he on a BMW K1200S or Kawi Z1 and she on a KZ650. In four days, these two motorcyclists, along with 33 employees working two shifts, turn a 55,000 lb truckload of ‘taters into 4 truckloads of tasty kettle-style chips of 13 varieties. Betsy favored the Lightly Salted and Sweet Potato, while I liked the Dill Pickle and Mama Zuma’s Revenge habanero chips, although the latter required purchase of a grape soda from Freda & Rochelle in the factory store. Route 11 chips are as healthy as any can be, because they’re hand-cooked in 1/2 peanut and 1/2 sunflower oil. Route 11 is environmentally conscious too: not only does the factory recycle packing material and steam from the cookers, peels and other
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organic waste are fed to the cows down the road! Are these chips really good? Just ask anyone who was in the hotel bar at Spring Break, because Betsy and I filled the saddlebags with 3 of their “mini-combos” of 10 small bags each and they were hoovered up by the rally attendees in short order. They also sell dips of various flavors that are the perfect complement to the chips. You can taste for yourself at the factory, which is open Monday-Saturday from 9-5. If you want to watch them in action, they have several large windows through which you can do a “fry-viewing” but you might want to call first: if they run out of ‘taters, you aren’t going to be “spec-taters,” but you can still sample and then buy your fill. You might even get to meet the mascots: Cooper the Pit-Weiner and Rudy Levin the cat. If you don’t want to make the trip, don’t worry: they ship nation-wide. Check their excellent web site for a local retailer or order for yourself online. Route 11 chips are also featured in Cracker Barrel Restaurants, but I recommend you make the short trip to the factory, in the heart of some of Virginia’s best riding. Here’s a 200 mile rount trip starting from Morton’s BMW in Fredericksburg, VA. Check ‘em out then go hang with your “best spuds” from Route 11.
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
Rip & Ride® • ROUTE 11 CHIPS 11 Edwards Way, Mount Jackson, VA • 1-800-294-SPUD • www.rt11.com Download GPS route here: www.sendspace.com/file/19d7xb
START: MORTON’S BMW, 5099A JEFFERSON DAVIS HWY, FREDERISCKSBURG, VA LEFT ONTO HARRISON ROAD LEFT ONTO BIG BEN BLVD LEFT ONTO ROUTE 3 WEST LEFT ONTO REVERCOMB RD RIGHT ONTO BATNA RD STRAIGHT ONTO ALGONQUIN TRAIL RIGHT ONTO ROUTE 522 NORTH ONTO ROUTE 229 LEFT ONTO ROUTE 729 LEFT ONTO CASTELTON FORD RD LEFT ONTO HOPE HILL RD RIGHT ONTO WHORTON HOLLOW RD STRAIGHT ONTO ROCK MILLS RD LEFT ONTO RUDASILL MILL RD RIGHT ONTO FLETCHERS MILL RD RIGHT ONTO ROUTE 522 LEFT ONTO ROUTE 211 THROUGH SHENANDOAH NATIONAL PARK
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LEFT ONTO US 340S RIGHT ONTO MECHANIC ST STRAIGHT ONTO BIXLERS FERRY RD LEFT ONTO N EGYPT BEND RD RIGHT ONTO ROUTE 675 LEFT ONTO MORELAND GAP RD RIGHT ONTO ROUTE 11 NORTH LEFT ONTO WISSLER RD LEFT ONTO INDUSTRIAL PARK RD RIGHT ONTO EDWARDS WAY GRAB A BAG OF CHIPS RETURN TO ROUTE 11 SOUTH LEFT ONTO ROUTE 211 EAST RIGHT ONTO US 340 SOUTH LEFT ONTO US 33 EAST LEFT ONTO ROUTE 230 NORTH LEFT ONTO US 15 SOUTH LEFT ONTO ROUTE 20 EAST RIGHT ONTO MINE RUN RD RIGHT ONTO DULIN LANE LEFT ONTO CATHARPIN RD RIGHT ONTO ROBERT E LEE DR LEFT ONTO ROUTE 208 BACK TO MORTON’S AND EAT YOUR CHIPS
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NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
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G R E AT A L L A M E R I C A N D I N E R R U N GOURMET EXPRESSIONS 307 MAIN STREET, LEBANON, NJ 08833 908-975-3042 • WWW.GOURMET-EXPRESSIONS.COM
As we have said many times in the past a great eatery can make it into the Great All American Diner Run for a number of reasons. The ideal combination is great location, superior roads, comfortable ambiance and, of course, delicious food. Sometimes it is just a few of these things that come into play but this month they all did. Take a ride with us to a true Great All American Diner Run as we peruse the tiny
tasty places to take your bike
backroads of New Jersey and find ourselves at Gourmet Expression, a place you and your group will return to again and again. In our travels we had ridden by the eatery, located in the old General Store in Mountainville, and had made a note to get back there for lunch as soon as possible. A while back we had a superb day ahead of us and Shira put together a phenomenal ride to Gourmet Expressions. For this ride we brought along the perfect riding companion - the 2010 Kawasaki Versys. Light weight and powerful,
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BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
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this machine made this ride even more enjoyable. It is the perfect backroads carver. Scooting down along some roads that even the state of New Jersey might have forgotten the ride was almost as good as the meal we were about to eat. With a name like Gourmet Expressions you may think this restaurant might be a bit pretentious, but not in the least. In fact here we found a wonderful and very friendly eatery - the owner Jennifer couldn’t have been more hospitable and it was obvious from the tables full of smiling faces that this place is a favorite with the locals.
superb BLT, Roast Beef and Provolone and for you Italian loves a sub called The Goomba! If you skipped breakfast this day take heart as Gourmet Expressions serves up eggs all day long - Omelet, Wrap or Sandwiches. And, speaking of your heart, they also have a Flatbread Sandwich with Egg Whites, Broccoli and Cheddar. On the kids menu you will find Macaroni & Cheese, all homemade from scratch. Why do the kids get this much fun? They even have your basic Grilled Cheese made with all-American White Bread. Ahh - the classics! As friendly as Jennifer is, she does have an evil side that comes around with her pies, cookies and desserts - be warned. She is tempting with these. If you find yourself in this neck of the woods for dinner (served until 9pm), you won’t be disappointed with your choice to grab a table at Gourmet Expresions and chow down. The same goes for Sunday Bruch, which is served 9am to 3pm. As we said earlier Gourmet Expressions has everything that it takes to make it in the Great All American Diner Run - location, roads, ambiance and great eats. So follow long with what we promise will be a simply phenomenal ride which starts from another great restaurant- The Chatterbox Drive-In in Augusta, NJ. Printed route can be found on Page 47. You can also download this route to your Garmin GPS at this site: www.sendspace.com/file/46i9sf
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Sport ~ Touring ~ Cruiser The insides are comfortable and roomy, but with the afternoon sun pouring down we took a table on the porch - al fresco. The menu was a wide plateau of culinary delight. Starters included Creole Shrimp, Beef on a Stick and BBQ Chicken Skewers. We went for the Spicy Garlic Shrimp, which was seriously delicious. They offer up a number of tasty salads but we gave the Chicken Quesadilla and Crispy Crab Cake Sandwich a try. You’ll also find BBQ Pork Sandwiches, a
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NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
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Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents
W E ’ R E O U T TA H E R E A ROOM WITH A VIEW Tim Wineland
NOLICHUCKEY BLUFFS BED AND BREAKFAST CABINS 295 KINSER PARK LANE, GREENEVILLE, TN 37743 423-787-7947 • 800-842-4690 • WWW.TENNESSEE-CABINS.COM NIGHTLY CABIN RATES RANGE FROM $50-$150.00/NIGHT WITH CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST. COUNTRY STORE ON PREMISE
“No kidding, it’s the most beautiful view I’ve ever seen from an outhouse.” Standing astride the toilet, I could see for miles across the placid Nolichuckey River far below - across the multi-hued forests and farmlands of east Tennessee, and beyond to the steaming shoulders of the Smokey Mountains. So inspired, I just had to call someone to share it with; someone I knew who would understand the irony of the situation, someone who would appreciate this uniquely serendipitous moment. That person wasn’t home, however, so I called my twenty-something son instead. “An outhouse. You know... an outside bathroom. Like Grandpa used to talk about. Corncobs? No! No corncobs - it actually has a flush toilet. Yes, even in Tennessee. Really, and a sink and a picture window, and it’s right near the edge of the cliff so you can see for miles. Huh? No, only when you stand up. But when you’re sitting down, you can watch the leaves blow in under the door. Is that cool, or what? Hello?”
The sluice coming off the grainary.
Undeterred by my erudite son’s attitude, I shoved the cell phone into my pocket and exited the panoramic privy. I had just arrived at the tiny mill-turned-B&B cabin, and had yet to investigate the rest of my very scenic - and very remote - nightly abode. I marveled at the wonders of century-old ingenuity that were evident around the restored wooden structure; from the ten-foot waterwheel, to the serpentine sluice that meandered down from a stone encased spring. Inside, I discovered the grainary, where once upon a time the local populace had brought their harvest of corn and oats. I imagined the farmers gathering on a Saturday afternoon much like this one, swapping stories while the wives spread picnic lunches beneath shady
a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads oaks, and the kids played tag or sailed tiny bark-boats down the water filled sluice. Unpacking my bike, I made my way into the “room” portion, and soon found myself looking out yet another strategically placed window. “Hey! Yep, it’s me again. You’ll never guess what I’m looking at now. What? Yes, of course I’m out of the bathroom. Man, you’re sick. Anyway, there’s a window above the bed, right? Well, actually there are two windows, but one looks out over the river, same as the outhouse. But the bed is in this second story loft, see, and you have to climb these steep wooden stairs to get up here, and then there’s this other window over the bed that looks inside the mill! Right down on the grain grinder thingy, and there’s all these old belts and pulleys and...Huh? The grist mill, Blackberry brain! The old grist mill they made into a cabin. Remember I told you I was staying at Nolichuckey Bluffs in this restored grist mill out in the woods and... Are you listening to me? Hello?” Night came quick and cold. The quaint charm of the outdoor facilities soon faded along with the light and temperature. The expansive view from the loft window was replaced by tree top branches silhouetted against the darkening sky. I pulled the curtains across the mill-view window, shutting out the silent blackness below me. Sneaking quietly into bed, my mind wandered again to the previous occupants of this ancient land. How many souls had lived out their lives in and around these wooded hills? Long before the farmers and the millers, how many Cherokee braves had paddled their canoes along this river? How many had camped atop this same bluff? How many never made the trip back home, being hurt or killed while hunting bear and wild boar? How many souls were still here? “So as I was saying... What? It’s me, goofball. Your Dad, remember? I don’t know, probably after midnight I guess. Did I wake you? Well, too much sleep’s not good for a guy your age. Whatever... so anyway, it’s so quiet out here in the woods, you know, all alone, so I thought... Huh? Is it what? Creepy? Naw... it’s not creepy. “Rustic” is what they call it. Very quiet and rustic. So I’m taking this hot bath a little while ago and it’s real quiet and... No, I’m not outside. The tub is right next to the bed, up here in the loft. The outhouse? Who ever heard of a bathtub in an outhouse? Haven’t you ever heard of hotels with hot-tubs in the bedroom? Ok, fine, so it’s not a hotel. No, it’s not a hottub either... it’s a claw-foot tub. Claw-foot. An antique. Yes, like me. Ha-ha. Ok, so I’m in the bathtub, and it’s, you know real quiet and cree... er, rustic, when in the distance I hear this ow-WOOO-ooooo. Yeah! No
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the cabins, the others offer more upscale amenities. For example, the Log Cabin, which sleeps up to eight people, has a piano and wood-burning fireplace, while the Redbud Cabin, which sleeps up to six, offers the use of a two-person jacuzzi in an enclosed room on the front porch.
joke, like a wolf howling or something, but I know there aren’t any wolves around, so I figure it must be, ha-ha, you know... not a wolf. And that’s when I remembered how much you love those stupid slasher-horror movies and I thought, heck, I’ll bet you’d get a laugh, what with me being out here all alone and not being the least bit, ha-ha, worried about... Hello? HELLO?!?” Nolichuckey Bluffs Bed and Breakfast Cabins has a number of cabins available for nightly, or longer, rental.While this is the most rustic of
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C
oming around the sharp bend, just south of The Dragon at Deals Gap, I saw the two State Trooper patrol cars on the side of the road. They had a number of riders pulled over and as I got closer the one Trooper looked at me and pointed to the ground in front of him - the international sign for pull it over Jackson. I complied and thought this was a great way to start our Backroads 15th Anniversary Rally. He was just checking to see that I had a motorcycle license and after a short chat I was back on the road again.
Backroads 15th Anniversary Rally
The Fling in Fontana
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This was the first full day of the Fling in Fontana and the previous day saw about 100 riders rolling into the North Carolina resort. We had taken off the week before and did a bit of riding in Kentucky and Ohio before dropping in on friends in Georgia and then riding up to Fontana Village. The first evening we had a small get together at the bar and we put out the route sheets for a wide variety of rides we had preplanned for the folks attending. Some were perfect, others a little less than; but it is hard to go wrong in the Great Smoky Mountains. Our first day we rode over to Tellico Plains, crossing the Tail of the Dragon with its 318 turns in some 11 miles. Our planned lunch stop at the Prospectors Diner was scrubbed as they were closed this day, but Plan B worked out just fine. Besides you cannot go wrong when you get to ride the Dragon and the Cherohala Skyway in the same day. Atop the Skyway, at some 6,000 feet the day’s heat abated and then our run back to Fontana through the Joyce Kilmer Forest was fun as well; especially Yellow Creek Road with its quick downhill switchback. Others headed to Georgia and the Alpen-style town of Helen - on what we called the ‘To Hell-en Back’ Tour. Still others just went off exploring the Smokys. The afternoon found most riders returning and making a bee-line for the pool to cool off and that evening both the restaurants and bar were fairly well packed. We
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were pleasantly surprised to be joined by one of our freelance writers, Tim Wineland, for dinner that evening. For those who have been reading Backroads for a while, you’ll know Tim from his slightly quirky sense of humor and fine writing style. Thanks for the Amarulo, Tim, we’ll keep it away from the elephants at Monkey with a Gun. In addition to our regular group that always come along on these events we had a number of new faces and even our old friends from the Sport Touring Motorcycle Club came down. Golf carting will never be the same. Wednesday we rode with our friends Jim and Marty, who were heading home to Atlanta, to Helen for some seriously great Rueben sandwiches and
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then ad-libbed a route back in a heat that seemed to get more and more unbearable with each mile. A quick thundershower was appreciated that day for sure. Along the way Shira’s BMW began to make unkind noises, very reminiscent of my 1150 GS right before it self-destructed. We would keep an ear and eye on this one. As riders rolled back to Fontana Village we got the reports on the various rides. Missing roads, thundershowers, Bush Beans, Knife Factory and Wheels Thru Time Museum (see Tony Lisanti’s recount on page 27) were discussed and even with the heat most people seemed to be having a blast; and that worked for us.
That evening Shira held her Invitational Putt Putt Challenge, miniature golf to you northerners, and the show of talent was amazing, as we saw later on the motorcycle arcade ride.
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Thursday we did a ride with the Philly contingent Brad and Bob and circled the Great Smoky Mountains visiting Clingmans Dome and then the loop around Cades Cove.
Although both were stunning destinations the hundreds of tourists made for a very slow go - especially anyone with Florida plates as real turns are almost unknown in the Sunshine state. If riding to the Dome was a battle in frustration then riding Cades Cove was a war. As beautiful as this place is if one more idiot stopped for five minutes to take a picture of a friggin’ deer or tree I was going to go berserk. Our plan was to ride part of this and then take Parsons Branch Road over to Route 129. This road has signage that it is Primitive. Savage was more like it and although the GS could handle it - the other street bikes, which consisted of a K1200GT and a
Road King were not taking the rocks, ruts, water crossings and slick clay very well. As much as it pained me we had to get back on the mile-long parked pace of Cades Cove Loop. Probably the worst choice we’ve ever made on a ride. Live and learn. Returning back Shira’s BMW really sounded bad and it was pretty apparent that her cam chain tensioner was failing so we pulled a switcharoo with a friend who towed her bike down and Shira rode Nuri’s new G650GS back while her R1150R was slid into a large Enterprise Panel Van.
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The late afternoon shower cooled most things off and our last night at Fontana Village was enjoyed by all as the realization that a long return trip was in the works for most of us. Most riders were up and out early the next day and we did a loop around Route 129 and then towards Asheville where we made our way to Natural Bridge, as did many others from the rally. Let the fun continue. We wanted to make time back to New Jersey from there and we could have easily done it in a day, but what fun would that be? So we routed our way along the Blue Ridge for some miles. Up here this day was a polar opposite of what we had been riding through with crisp temperatures and vents zipped tight. That morning the mist faded away and the road was lathered
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with dapples of morning sun peaking over the ridge. Near Buena Vista we rode down to the valley and continued north along the Washington National Forest deep in the Shenandoah Valley. By day’s end we had made it as far as Shippensburg, Pennsylvania and the quaint Shippen Place Hotel downtown, with is old-style hotel elegance, great food, bar and live music trio that evening on the patio.
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This made a great early spot for this day with plenty of time to explore the town and have one more enjoyable night with friends before returning to Backroads Central. We got an early start this Sunday and by 1’ish we had pulled into the drive, and swapped bikes out of the van so Mike, Nuri and the rest of our group could continue home. Was the decision to head south in August a good one? Well, the riding was spectacular as was the heat, but I think all in all the people who decided to make the trek had a great week. We thank you all for coming and look forward to seeing you on our 2011 rallies.
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
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Wheels Through Time Vintage Motorcycle Museum words: Tony Lisanti • images: Tony Lisanti and Rob Mitchell
While enjoying a week away with the Backroads faithful in Fontana Dam, North Carolina, I found myself having a discussion with the Mosca brothers about going to see the Wheels Through Time Museum. Not really knowing much about it, it didn’t take much arm-twisting from Mike and Larry to get me to go. After careful, insightful planning that always results from such conversations, we agreed to meet there the next day. After a great morning ride on the steamy roads around the Smoky Mountains I arrived at the museum just off U.S. Highway 19 in Maggie Valley. Maggie Valley is about an hour West of Ashville. Walking up to the entrance, I was greeted by several original looking machines including a 1915 Harley Davidson 3 speed twin and a 1951 Servicar (an early utility trike) that both appeared to be in running condition. This looked to be a very interesting endeavor. The museum proclaims to have the World’s premier collection of rare vintage American motorcycles. It was founded in 1993 by Dale Walksler and has become a major regional attraction. So much so the museum holds regular events throughout the year attracting motorcycle and non-motorcycle travelers to the region.
One great example is the display of military motorcycles. Six or seven original Harley Davidson and Indian military spec machines from the 1940’s are arranged under an awning depicting the front of a quonset hut. In the display are rare prototype Indians, Harley WLAs and XAs. In fact he has four Harley XAs, two in original military condition and two that have been “civilianized”. I had never heard of these machines as they were a protoype for the US Army and fewer than one thousand were produced. The XA is essentially Harley’s take on a horizontally opposed twin with shaft drive. I couldn’t help but think that there are a whole bunch
Entering the 38,000 square foot steel shed building I was greeted by friendly hosts at the admission and gift shop counters as well as a few four legged friends enjoying an early afternoon nap. Stepping into the museum proper, I was amazed to see not only vintage motorcycles but countless pieces of memorabilia on display. There are thousands of photographs, tools, and period pieces such as clothing, oilcans, original parts and accessories. The motorcycles are not only displayed, but actually “live” within vignettes of the period they represent. Go See the Pros that Know How to Ride!
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of BMW faithful that are in for a surprise when they see these! The display also included artifacts such as OEM parts in their containers, compressors and generators powered by early Harley v-twins, tools and field accessories for the soldiers. Dale was more than willing to talk and answer questions about any of the machines on display. Another display titled “Home-Made in America” showcases how early motorcycle engines were used in applications other than making two wheels go forward. The thrift and necessity of early 20th century life resulted in adapting the small and compact motorcycle engine to various industrial uses. All types of contraptions are displayed including 1915 Harley V-Twin ice saw, a Davis self-propelled mining cart, and a Harley VTwin powered monoplane. Clearly not for the weak of heart!
‘Slant Artists’ features early hill climb machines from Harley-Davidson, Indian and Excelsior. The machines are all originals from the period between 1910 and 1930. Many are board track racers modified for hill climb competition. ‘Motor Cops’ creates a time line for motorcycles used in law enforcement. The display pays tribute to the men and women of law enforcement and the machines they rode over the past 100 years. The display includes memorabilia, photographs, clothing and written histories of law enforcement professionals. It also has some very rare motorcycles like a 1909 Pierce 4 cylinder and an original 1927 Henderson from the New Mexico Highway Patrol and of course a few Harleys. The museum has been in its current location in Maggie Valley, NC since 2002. Originally in Mount Vernon, Illinois, Dale opened the museum in 1993 after he had collected a shop full of rare motorcycles, parts and memorabilia as a Harley Davidson dealer. Dale was one of the youngest people ever to have been granted a Harley franchise opening the doors of his shop while he was in his early twenties. Over the years with an eye for rare motorcycles and artifacts, he purchased, sold and traded many bikes and parts and had enough to start his museum. He ultimately sold the dealership in 1999 and relocated the museum to North Carolina hoping to attract tourists in the more motorcycle friendly environment.
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Dale owns more than 90% of everything in the museum. Only a few machines are on loan from other collectors. Dale spends his day setting up the displays and working on restorations. He is the real deal when it comes to riding these machines and is proud to be able to start and ride a high percentage of the motorcycles on display. And that 1915 Harley 3 speed in front of the museum? Well, on our way out, he told us he’s riding it from Kitty Hawk, NC to Santa Monica in the Cannonball Rally. Just to prove the point, he hopped on, kicked it over and escorted us down Highway 19 for several miles. The rasp from the exhaust and smell of castor oil permeated the afternoon air. The museum is an absolute gem and requires the better part of day to see it all and digest. If riding through North Carolina especially on the Blue Ridge, this is a must see. Book a hotel and spend a day being taken back through history on Dale’s “Wheels Through Time”. WHEELS THROUGH TIME MUSEUM 62 VINTAGE LANE, MAGGIES VALLEY, NC 28751 828-926-6266 WWW.WHEELSTHROUGHTIME.COM
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
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Makes its Return to the US Market Shira Kamil
Last seen in the United States in 2006, Schuberth helmets are coming back. With the introduction of their C3 and C3W, Schuberth and its 70-year history of head protection will make their motorcycle helmets available through a network of dealers throughout the US. According to Randy Northrup, General Manager of Schuberth North America, brand re-establishment is key at this time. Not looking to flood the market, a select group of dealers will be chosen based on the ability to dedicate themselves to customer support quality not quantity. Owners of prior Schuberth helmets - Concept, C2 or S1 - will be offered limited replacement parts and service where they were once stuck. And when they come in for parts or service, they’ll be offered Schuberth’s new products as well. Along with the helmets, special programs will be in place for that added customer
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support. The Three-Year Service Plan on new C3 and C3W helmets, in addition to their five-year warranty from date of purchase, will include a certificate good for helmet inspection and adjustment within three years of purchase. If anything is found to have gone awry, the certified Schuberth dealer can perform the service or they customer may choose to have it sent directly Schuberth North America. In keeping with their customer service protocol, the Schuberth Mobility Program will go beyond the life of the helmet. This will offer a rider replacement of the same model at one-third the retail cost of a new helmet if the helmet should be in a crash. Just submit the damaged helmet, copy of driver’s license, police report and original sales receipt within one year of the crash to the Schuberth Service Dealer and off you go, ready to ride another day. Enough of this - let’s hear about the new helmets. I got the opportunity to visit the Schuberth factory in Magdeburg, Germany to see how they’re made. Here’s a basic lesson in helmet production: Manufacturing begins with the shell. Layers of lightweight fiberglass reinforced with Duroplast and a layer of Dyneema are bag-molded with heat at a pressure of 87 psi. This produces a thin, smooth shell
which evenly spreads impact over the whole helmet. An RFID transmitter is placed in each helmet for ID and updated at each production stop. Their next stop is the robotic waterjet ma-
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
chine which cuts the various openings. Off it goes to the grinding/priming station where they’ll be smoothed, spackled and grinded of any imperfections. While most are handworked, Schuberth is implementing a robotic grinder as a time-saver. They then get their shiny coat of paint and are handed off to the human-applied graphics and decals team. The final clear coat is applied and it’s off to the accessory line where the trim, ventilation scoop, sunvisor and various hardware and such is put in place. Just like in the Land of Oz beauty sta-
tions, they are polished and prettied for final prep to be placed on your head. All this happens in less than 45 minutes.
The C3 and C3W flip-up helmets claim to be the lightest (at 3.6 lbs.), quietest (84dB at 60mph - competitors claims are in the mid-90dB range) and coolest (2 gallons of air/sec. at 60 mph) on the market. On-site wind tunnel testing took care of the minimal buffeting and wind noise, with the snug neck roll and adjustable
chin skirt to further diminish any bothersome noisiness. Of course, you may not want all the wind blocked, so the C3 ventilation system features a wide chin vent and large intake on the top, with exhaust vent out the bottom rear. The face shield ratchets so that it stays in the position placed, rather than snapping shut in the wind. With its Microlock closing system, getting face recognition is that much easier with gloves on and the 80% tint on the retractable sun visor makes the need for sunglasses all but obsolete. As for safety, there are reflective areas on the back, side and front of the helmet
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and the Anti-Roll-OffSystem, or A.R.O.S., ensures that, if the chinstrap is closed, the helmet won’t pivot off the head from behind, the risk of the chin section coming in contact with facial body parts is minimized as is the risk of the helmet hitting the chest in the case of an accident. Helmets come with an installed pinlock distortion-free, anti-fog protection shield. Try as I did, on the cold, rainy day that we did our test ride, I could not get that shield fogged. In addition, there are ‘turbulators’ to reduce that annoying whistle noise when the shield is slightly open. If illfate befalls your shield and it needs changing, the quick-release mechanism - no tools needed - will get you back on the road quickly. Specific to the C3W for women, the weight of the helmet is brought down a skosh to 3.4 lbs. depending on helmet size. Schuberth engineers and product developers confirmed, from extensive research, that women generally have a distinct facial shape, smaller head size and narrow cheekbones. To this end, the C3W is made with slow memory foam to adjust to slight variations of shape, which provides greater comfort and, ultimately, greater safety. The soft, jersey knit Microfiber lining is antibacterial, antiallergenic and easy to clean - no more makeup stains here.
NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
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Another new offering from Schuberth is their SRC (Schuberth Rider Communication) System. They have teamed with Cardo to make an integrated system adaptable to the Concept, C2 and C3 helmets. This unit is attached directly to the helmet, replacing the original neck collar that snaps into place, and is fully operational within minutes after initial charging. There are ports built into the EPS foam to accommodate
Final details include size,color and price. The C3 is available in glossy white, silver, black and matte black in sizes S (head size 54cm) to XXXL (head size 65cm), while the C3W will come in Pearl White and Glossy Silver, sizes XXS (head size 50cm) to L (head size 59cm). Now hang on to your helmet, ‘cause here’s the pricing: $699 for the helmet and $399 for the SRC communication system for a whopping total of $1098 a helmet. While this might be sticker shock to some, the quality and technological advancements of the Schuberth helmet will certainly gain the appreciation of many riders who will find a home for said helmet in their garage. So, you ask, how does this helmet really work? We were given a 200-mile (more or less) test ride through the beautiful area of Magdeburg and the surrounding mountains. From the moment I slipped the C3W on my head, it seemed to be a custom-fit. There was no issue with pressure at the ears (I have to say that I was not wearing any ear protection as A) it’s illegal in GerC3W many and B) I wanted to get the full wind-noise/lackthereof from the helmet. Additionally, there was no pinching at the neck or pushing at the forehead. A vigorous shaking of the head did speakers - no more ear not dislodge the proper fit of the helpain. The unit is Bluetoothmet. Opening and closing was a enabled and allows up to 3 breeze, as was finding and riders to communicate up using the sun visor and ventito 300 meters distance. It is lation system. an automatic connection I was lucky enough to be when speaking, with cut-off riding a BMW F800R, soon after 30 seconds of silence. to be available in the US. It MP3s can be connected using a USB had a minimal fairing and up(if Bluetoothright seating position. I was a Blac enabled no cable bit concerned, as our first order k•C required), and phones and GPS of business was to get on the A2 3•S ilve units have similar connections the big road. Doing a spirited ride, I felt r via Bluetooth. The whole sheno buffetting or drag/pull on the helmet. Turning bang is controlled from the butmy head left and right, again there was no pressure either. tons on the collar. The unit has a I put the face shield up and, voile, it stayed up. I put the shield down and, 10-hour talk time, one week on without ear protection, wind noise was at a minimum. I opened the vents and stand-by time and is rechargeable there was a woosh of nice, cool air flowing through the helmet, not directly in approximately 2 hours. While the on my face but more surrounding my head. After a full day’s ride I was neihelmet I tested was not equipped with ther fatigued, eye-pained nor neck-sore. I look forward to receiving my DOT the SRC, we did have a hands-on (we were issued CE-compliant helmets for the European market) Schuberth demonstration. I’ve used Cardo comhelmet (Glossy Silver to match the new BMW, please) for a more complete munications before and found them to test ride/report. be, by far, the easiest of the new BlueTo get your very own C3 or C3W contact Schuberth North America at 949tooth systems to use. Of course, there’s 215-0893 or visit www.schuberth.com/US/C3 for upcoming information. always a learning curve with the proper buttons to press and such. C Y C L E
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BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
First Ride • Honda VFR 1200 Ralph L. Angelo Jr.
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UPDATING A LEGEND
How do you update, or re-create a legend? In motorcycling few models rightfully attain that status. Some are misnamed ‘legendary’ for all the wrong reasons. Only few rightfully deserve the title. How many motorcycles have been around, under one name plate for almost thirty years? Very few. One of those is the Honda VFR. It has gone through many changes over the years, but the one constant has been the V-Four configuration, the favorite engine of Soichiro Honda himself. This newest VFR (Originally coined as ‘Vee Four Racing’) is an all-new, unique motorcycle that is the result of five years of design and development. Most new Honda motorcycles undergo a three year development cycle. But this was to be an ‘All new, All different’ VFR. Gone is the V-tech of the last iteration. In its place is new technology that is ideally suited for a machine that pushes the limits of design and rider, duly suited for the motorcycle that is, in some regards, Honda’s flagship machine. Surely it has always been its most advanced in many cases. In keeping with that train of thought there are actually two models of VFR this year, one is fitted with a typical six speed transmission, the other with an all new six speed dual clutch automatic transmission, that requires no manually shifting unless the rider desires to do so. The VFR 1200’s first technological increase is an all new motor, bumping displacement from 800CC to a whopping 1237. The VFR1200 is as powerful as it is smooth. But more incredible is how small the area at the back of the tank is with a motor of this size. The seating is comfortable and relaxed because of this. The reason? The rear cylinders of the powerful motor are offset, decreasing width at the back of the tank area, resulting in a much more manageable motorcycle. The bike is easily flat footed by those of average height, and never feels like it is going to tumble over. The weight of the motorcycle is balanced and balanced low effectively building confidence during
low speed maneuvers. But what other technological breakthroughs have been wrought by this all new motorcycle’s development? Well, we’ve all heard of ‘Fly by wire’ throttles by now right? They’ve been used for several years in Moto GP racing as well as other series. The new VFR takes that one step further, by introducing a fly by wire design that still maintains cable feel at the throttle. How does it do this? There are actually two cables feeding a servo mounted on the motor. This is matched by another servo mounted opposite the cable driven one, which is a back up or redundancy device. From these a signal is sent to the motor’s control and throttle speed is actuated there, electronically. Both servos must be in sync with one another or the computer will record a fault. The motorcycle will not die and leave you stranded but will in fact allow you to ride home or to a service center, where the problem can be diagnosed properly and repaired. The dash panel is all new as well, with clock, temperature, dual trip meters, as well as a shift indicator display. The one thing I found slightly confusing about the display was that the control to toggle through the various functions was on the left side of the dash while the actual display was on the right. Why can’t manufacturers come up with a system of toggles for scrolling through functions in the handgrip area, which can be accessed by thumb and forefinger? The new VFR also has a completely redesigned fairing, one which is actually layered, so that hot air from the motor flows around the rider, not onto him. The fairing also hides all its fasteners, so no screws or rivets of any type are showing for a clean, uncluttered look. For the very first time, The new VFR has done away with its chain and now has a shaft drive, but as all things with this motorcycle, it is an all new design. The shaft is actually offset and through new generation design improvements, is unaffected by old school shaft jacking when accelerating or decelerating. In fact this motorcycle was so smooth during testing that I never once thought ‘This is a shaft drive.’ As those familiar with the VFR line have come to expect, there is an all new, full width, single sided swing-arm. Brakes on this motorcycle are, in a word ‘incredible’. As in previous generations of VFR, the brakes are ABS and linked, but the difference with this
NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
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Closeup view of the handlebar controls. new VFR is that the only linking is rear to front. In other words if you step on the rear brake peddle you will actuate the front caliper, but if you apply the front brake alone the rear will NOT be actuated. Using both brakes simultaneously affords strong and linear stopping power, again very confidence inspiring.
The main question here though is how does all of this come together? How does this motorcycle ride? Well to answer that question I recently took to the backroads of Vermont for a day of somewhat spirited riding, which showcased the new VFR’s abilities.
The VFR has long been a gentleman’s express of sorts, a motorcycle aimed at those who have ridden for some time and are not interested in racer-boy poses and dragging knees through corners, but rather long days of twisty corners and scenic vistas in the saddle. A typical VFR rider is in his forties, has been riding for many years, and does not want to spend his riding time in a cruiser’s saddle, but rather would still like to be out having fun on his rides of choice. In other words, he is an experienced rider, who wants to sport-tour in comfort. The VFR’s relaxed yet still sporty riding position allows just that. The bar to seat height and angle I found perfect. Not once during my time on the motorcycle did I find any arm fatigue or hand pain. Amazingly, I found the stock seat to my liking. That is a very rare thing for me, as on most of my own motorcycles I’ve had to invest in aftermarket seats. But I felt this seat was as near perfect as can be expected or hoped for. It was firm and shaped very well. I was pleasantly surprised by this. The only area where I felt some slight discomfort was the foot peg to seat height angle. I felt the pegs could have been a slight bit lower for perfect comfort. Overall though, the bike can definitely be ridden long distances in comfort. And how about that riding? What was it really like? In a word, it was fun. The motorcycle was easy to toss back and forth in curves, with plenty of power from that big motor, making it easy to power out of turns and for passing. How powerful is that big motor you may ask? While there are no officially confirmed numbers, mid 140’s seems to be what is inferred as far as horsepower goes. In fact, the new VFR is said to be the old CBR1100XX Blackbirds superior in the power department.
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
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‘S’ mode was a pleasure to ride in, and a mode I was happy to ride in, until I came upon twistier roads, at that point I activated the ‘Manual’ shift option with a finger lever on the right grip housing and using the paddle shifters on the left housing, I scrolled through the gears, up-shifting and downshifting at my pleasure. Once out of the twisties I would go back to the ‘S’ mode for more general riding, again with the switch on the right housing. Also there is an added indicator in the dash area that indicates in the LCD screen on the left, ‘D’, ‘S’, or ‘Man’. I found I did not have to blip the throttle on or off to shift, I just pushed a paddle and the transmission would do the rest. The DCT was silky smooth and even when shifted either manually or when the auto trans did the shifting. When coming to a stop, the one tidbit the rider should be aware of is that the
In typical Honda fashion, the power is tractable and linear, with no big surge of speed anywhere I experienced. In the handling department, the VFR was rock solid and super stable, its heavy cast frame was I-beam solid and never did I feel any frame flex, just more confidence in every turn. After close to a hundred miles I swapped motorcycles and began riding a DCT or Dual Clutch Transmission model, in other words, the Automatic. This is a totally different experience from the manually shifted machine. The DCT has three modes, ‘D’ for drive, ‘S’ for Sport, and then a manual override for shifting with the left hand lever paddle shifters. By the way, ‘Dual Clutch Transmission’ is exactly that, Clutch 1 is engaged for gears 1-3-5 and clutch 2 is gears 2-4-6.
Now that the technical stuff is out of the way, we can talk about the actual riding experience on the VFR 1200F DCT. Believe me, there’s a lot to talk about. I originally thought this was just a gimmick to make waves for the new VFR. But I was wrong. The initial feel when sitting on the new VFR DCT’s seat and looking over the controls leaves one with a bit of trepidation. There is no clutch lever nor a shift peddle on the left side of the motorcycle. Only dual paddle shifters on the left grip housing. Your left thumb will handle downshifting and your left pointer finger handles up-shifts. As previously mentioned there are actually three modes for this transmission. ‘D’ Mode is more of an economical mode, with early shift points, as the motorcycle quickly rolls through the gears. I found this mode pretty much useless on the backroads. Perhaps on the freeway it would be useful, but in regular riding I found it to be anti-climactic. But the ‘S’ mode was a completely different story. When I shifted into ‘S’ mode the motorcycle immediately felt as it should, with longer shift points and more power dolled out before up-shifting.
motorcycle cannot be left in gear, as is the case with a manual transmission model. There is another handle
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NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
on the left grip housing, that when pulled towards you activates a parking brake, yes you read that right, a parking brake. This brake is actually a small caliper on the rear rotor that is cable actuated, and should be used when shutting down and walking away from the motorcycle. A push on the button on the side of the housing releases the brake when ready to ride out again.
Honda made a huge commitment to this motorcycle with fifteen accessories so far including hardbags, top trunk and a ‘Laminar-Lip’ style windshield extension among those accessories. My final thoughts on this motorcycle are simple: It’s a technological marvel, and because of that the price of entry is steep, $15,999 for the manually shifter model, and $17,499 for the DCT. For my two cents I’d definitely opt for the DCT, it worked that well, and was fun to ride, as was the manual motorcycle. But there was something special about the DCT, it was just that good. This motorcycle is a definite sport touring motorcycle with the emphasis on ‘Sport’. It’s made for the rider who wants to continue to sport ride with long days in the saddle and many miles per day. It’s been created for the mature rider who wants the best and can afford it. If you fit into any or all of the above criteria, then the VFR1200F’s for you!
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
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UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR E V E RY M O N T H - W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G Second Sunday • Philadelphia Breakfast Ride. Meet at Silk City Diner - 5th/Spring Garden, Philadelphia PA - 8am • 215-922-2214
What’s Happening
13 • Gold Coast Motorsports Open House. 9:30am-5pm with food, drink and in-store specials. 2070 Jericho Tpke, new Hyde Park, NY • 516-352-7474 • www.goldcoast-motorsports.com
Every Sunday • Eastern Suffolk ABATE Breakfast Run. Crossroads Diner - Calverton NY. 10:30am. Eat and Ride After • 631-369-2221
14 • Liberty HOG Annual Toy Run. Sign in: 10:30-Noon 12 W. Milton Ave, Rahway, NJ. $15 w/toy; $20 w-o/toy; $10/passenger. Ride to Bristol-Myers Squibb Children’s Hospital, New Brunswick, NJ • 732-381-2400 • www.libertyharley.com
First Sunday of the month • Layton Meet at the Layton Deli, corner of Dingmans/Bevans Rd, CR 560, Layton, NJ. Meet around 8am – breakfast available. Join others for a ride or head out on your own
26-27 • Bergen Sport Cycles Holiday Open House Weekend. Friday - Free photos with motorcycle Santa. Saturday - Free photos with regular Santa. 30 US Hwy 46 East, Lodi, NJ • 973-478-7711 • http://bergensportcycle.com
Every Tuesday • The Ear - Spring St, NYC. Come meet some fellow riders and do some benchracing or whatever. 8pm-ish
27 • Orange Saturday Party at Liberty Harley-Davidson and Highroads Harley-Davidson. Deep Fried Turkey with the trimmings served at both locations. Great store savings • Liberty H-D, 12 W. Milton Ave, Rahway, NJ • Highroads H-D, 211 Woodbridge Ave, Highland Park, NJ • 732-381-2400 • 732-985-7546
Third Tuesday • 7:30pm ABATE of the Garden State, North Jersey chapter. Black River Barn, 1178 Rt. 10 West, Randolph, NJ. 7:30pm. New members and all mc brands welcome. Help fight for rights as a motorcyclist in NJ! Alex Martinez 973-390-1918
NOVEMBER 6 • Bob’s BMW invites you to meet Allan Karl, a man who packed up and sold nearly all his possessions for a journey that lasted 3 years, through 35 countries and across 5 continents on his BMW F650GS Dakar. Enjoy his fascinating multi-media presentation and share stories over a full catered dinner with beer and wine, with special door prize giveaway. Space is limited. RSVP with ticket purchase of $20/pp by Nov. 1. Events is held at Bob’s BMW, 10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD from 6-9pm • www.bobsbmw.com • Jessica Scalo 301-497-8949 ext. 255 6 • Schoch Harley-Davidson Fall Winter Fashion Show. 4300 Manor Dr/Rte. 33, Stroudsburg, PA • 570-992-7500 • www.harleyclothes.com 6 • Ride for Charlie. Sign in Tramontin H-D Exit 12, Rte. 80, Hope, NJ. 9:30-11am; returns 12:30pm to Tramontin H-D for pig roast, BBQ, music, silent auction, raffle and more. $20/rider; $10/passenger; $20/non-rider for BBQ • 973-294-0999 for info 7 • Run Ride Dine Tribute to American Veterans. 5K run/walk to benefit NORWESCAP. Sign in 8am American Legion, WIllow Grove St, Hackettstown, NJ. $20/runner • www.transitionsrunwalk.com • Motorcycle Ride + Veterans Day Procession. Sign in: 10am Tramontin H-D, Exit 12, Rte. 80, Hope, NJ. Ride leaves 11am. $20/rider includes meal voucher for outdoor dining on Main St Hackettstown 12:30-5:30pm with various Hackettstown restaurants. 1-4pm Moore St Parking Lot Live Music with Only Living Boy and Quimby Mountain Band • www.hackettstownbid.com 11 • Harley-Davidson Long Branch 3rd Annual Veteran’s Day Run and Celebration. Sign in: 9-10am; Ride leaves 10:15am • 671 Broadway, Long Branch, NJ. Endsite: NJ Vietnam Veteran Memorial, Holmdel, NJ. Continued celebration at Woody’s Roadside Tavern, 105 Academy St, Farmingdale, NJ 6pm-? • 732-229-8518
27 • Cross Country BMW and Ducati Open House. 10am-4pm. Giveaways from Rev’it, Gerbing, Scala Rider and more. Storewide savings, refreshments, demo rides and factory reps on hand • 875 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ • 732-635-0094 • www.ccbmw.com • www.ccducati.com
JANUARY 2011 7-9 • 34th North American International Motorcycle SuperShow. Toronto International Centre, Ontario, Canada. Over 500 exhibitors and 1,000 motorcycles on display in7 giant halls. A true shopping extravaganza and unveiling of 2011 new motorcycles. 3 Days of ‘Everything in Motorcycling’ including touring, cruisers, racing, performance bikes, vintage, classics and custom bike showcase. Live bands, fashion shows, special guests and club/assocation displays. on-site restaurants and Beer Garden. For full information visit www.supershowevents.com 14-16 • Progressive International Motorcycle Show at Washington, DC • www.motorcycleshows.com 21-23 • Progressive International Motorcycle Show at Javits Center, New York, NY • www.motorcycleshows.com
FEBRUARY 2011 19-20 • 93rd running of the Crotona Midnight Run. Longest continuously run motorcycle event in the USA. Competitive road run with an average speed of 30mph. All qualified finishers receive medallion with trophies for 1, 2, and 3 place in expert and novice class. $20/bike. Sign in: Sat, Feb. 19 10:30pm • Key Time: Midnight. Nathan/Kolh Parking Lot, Central Park Ave, Yonkers, NY • 201-286-9346 • www.ramapomc.org
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UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR MAY 2011 19-21 • 13th Annual BACKROADS’ Spring Break. This year we’ll be heading to the Finger Lakes - Canandaigua, to be specific. We’ll spend three nights at the Inn on the Lake Resort while enjoying the leisurely riding, beautiful scenery, gorgeous gorges and comradery. Limited rooms, as always, so book yours today. Special rates apply, so ask for the Backroads Group when booking • www.theinnonthelake.com • 800-228-2801 19-22 • Concours Owners Group Spring Fling Northeast Area Rally. Penn Wells Lodge, Wellsboro, PA. Nearby camping also available. Saturday buffet dinner included in rally fee. Detauks abd fee information online www.cog-online.org • 978-394-2591
What’s Happening
12/19/10 • SCHOCH'S HARLEY-DAVIDSON, Route 33, Snydersville, PA • 570-9927500 1/9/11 • DETHOMASI'S EAST 5 POINTS INN, Vineland, NJ • 856-691-6080 1/16/11 • WEARHOUSE GRILL, 161 Route 181, Hopatcong, NJ • 973-663-2222 1/23/11 • SIR JOHN'S, 230 Washington Place, North Brunswick Twp, NJ • 732-2973803 1/30/11 • DADDY O REST, 4401 Long Beach Blvd, Brant Beach, NJ • 609-494-1300
JULY 2011 17-24 • Head off with Backroads’ publishers Brian & Shira for a tour of a lifetime as we join up with Edelweiss for their High Alpine Tour. Ride the roads you have dreamed of in the past - Paso Del Stelvio, the Grossglockner, the famed Dolomites. We’ll even have a day’s ride to Venice. For all the information you’ll need to book this great trip, please email Doris at Edelweiss Travel: doris.waldegger@edelweissbike.com
2/6/11 • THE EXCHANGE, 160 E. Main St, Rockaway, NJ • 973-627-8488 2/13/11 • PIC-A-LILLI INN, 866 Route 206, Shamong, NJ • 609-268-2066 2/20/11 • LANDSLIDE SALOON, 1090 Route 173, Pattenburg, NJ • 908-735-6919 2/27/11 • HOOTERS, 25 Route 23 South, Wayne, NJ • 973-837-1876
AUGUST 2011 8-12 • Concours Owners Group National Rally. Green Mountains at Mount Snow, VT. Rally fee includes buffet dinner. Discount for COG members. For more information please visit www.cog-online.org • 978-394-2591
2010-2011 POLAR BEAR SCHEDULE 10/31/10 • CAPE MAY VFW POST #386, 419 Congress St, Cape May, NJ • 609-8847961 11/7/10 • IRISH EYES PUB, 213 Anglers Rd, Lewes, DE • 302-645-6888 11/14/10 • KNIGHTS OF COLUMBUS, 61 Pine St, Old Bridge, NJ • 732-251-9817 11/21/10 • CORNUCOPIA, 175 Route 209N, Port Jervis, NY • 845-856-5361 11/28/10 • HILLBILLY HALL, 203 Hopewell-Wertsville Rd, Hopewell, NJ • 609-4669856 12/5/10 • MONTGOMERYVILLE CYCLE CENTER, 2901 Bethlehem Pike, Hatfield, PA • 215-712-7433
Line ‘em up!
12/12/10 • THE CABIN, 984 Route 33, Howell, NJ • 732-462-3090
3/6/11 • BAHRS LANDING, 2 Bay Ave, Highlands, NJ • 732-872-1245 3/13/11 • FIREHOUSE EATERY, 455 Saint Georges Ave, Rahway, NJ • 732-382-9500 3/20/11 • LONG VALLEY PUB & BREWERY, 1 Fairmount Rd, Long Valley, NJ • 908876-1122 3/27/11 • THE CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN, 1 Route 15 South, Augusta, NJ • 973-3002300 4/3/11 • BRIAN'S HARLEY-DAVIDSON, 600 S. Flowers Rd, Langhorne, PA • 215-7529400 4/10/11 • FLYING CLOUD CAFE, 800 New Hampshire Ave, Atlantic City, NJ • 609348-8222 4/17/11 • CAPE MAY VFW POST#386, 419 Congress St, Cape May, NJ • 609-8847961 4/30/11 • POLAR BEAR DINNER, Knights of Columbus, Pine St, Old Bridge, NJ • 908251-9817. You must have tickets to attend. To check on Polar Bear Cancellations & Updates call 908-722-0128
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BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
Page 39
Portable Bluetooth Communication
BLUE ANT INTERPHONE VS. CARDO SCALA G4 tour as each has the capability to charge two F4 units. We found that the F4 easily linked to our Zumo 665 and both directions and music came through clearly as did bike-to-bike communications, even a 1/2 mile away. We found the control buttons to be a bit confusing to the gloved
Communication. Baby talk to me! - Power Station
It seems that as every riding season comes rolling around the need for wired communication systems become less and less important. Bluetooth technology is moving right along and communication between rider and passenger and between motorcycles has gotten easier and clearer. Our Backroads Test Team has spent the last few months testing a couple of these communication systems and wanted to let you know what we found. What worked and, just as important, what worked easily. Many of these systems operate with the same features. Rider to rider, rider to passenger, music, GPS via Bluetooth and cell phone. Some manufacturers seem to think that certain features were far more important than others - which we will explain. 3-Rail Bike Trailers We took a look at two of these units with a few various testers. Toy Hauler Trailers Let’s see what we found....
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INTERPHONE F4 FROM BLUEANT
This is a company we had just heard about and according to their information the F4 will pair with up to eight Bluetooth devices and multipoint technology allows the F4 to connect to two phones at once. Additionally, riders can listen to turn-by-turn directions from “motorcycle-friendly” Bluetooth GPS devices and enjoy up to 10 hours talk-time and up to 700 hours of standby time.
The F4’s intercom capability can be used between other F4 units used by either pillion riders or riders in close proximity to each other (up to 1,640 feet) and would be clear to 110 mph. We found installation to be very easy, as with all of these devices. The F4’s unit slides over the lip of the helmet and screws down. It has a boom microphone that swings into place and the tiny, but powerful headsets fit easily where they need to be. We brough the F4’s to California to test them on tour. One thing we really liked about the F4 was the charger. Each unit came with one, but you will only need one on
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NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
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touch and a few times we had to stop to reset them to the correct mode and to pair them up once again. Our big problem was within a few hours they began to fade and the F4’s batteries ran dry. Normally we would charge them up at night, except that the charger itself failed and our other one was 3,000 miles away in New Jersey. This was not good. When we returned these were passed onto to Test group II, as we wanted to be fair with this testing. They had the same problems and concerns as we did. The Interphone F4 communication system is available for purchase on the BlueAnt Wireless website at an MSRP of $225.00 per unit. Remember you’ll need two. The Interphone F4 communication system is supported by BlueAnt’s committed customer service program and 2-year warranty. Visit www.blueantwireless.com
CARDO SCALA RIDER SYSTEMS G4 POWERSET Cardo sells these units in a set of two - which is convenient - and also shows that they have been at this for a while and know that most riders will use these for their own passengers as well as rider-to-rider communication. The G4 follows in the wake of Cardo’s other offerings and claims that the new G4 will transmit clearly up to a full mile, depending upon terrain. These new units will also work with previous Scala Rider devices.
Play it safe on the outside Keep it sexy on the inside…
A2DP Stereo Music: Taking advantage of A2DP, the latest Bluetooth stereo music transfer technology, the G4 can receive CD-quality music from any MP3 player with A2DP capability. Built-In FM Radio: The G4 has a built-in FM Radio with RDS and scan and seek features with six-station channel memory. We found them to be very well built and a bit more ‘solid’ compared to the F4. Once again installation was a breeze and after an over-night charging we were ready to go. The controls were much easier with the G4 and raising and lowering the volume, as well as turning on bike-to-bike communication, was fairly easy.
Our second group of testers felt that the G4 was a far superior product all around. The combination of ease of use, quality of sound and the fit and finish makes this the clear winner of this Bluetooth Shootout. Also available from Cardo is their TeamSet PRO. This set is designed for rider-passenger use and comes with a set of identical, pre-paired rider/passenger headsets for intercom communication. In addition, each headset functions independently of each other, allowing both users to make and receive their own voice-activated, hands-free cellphone calls and listen to their own MP3 player or GPS unit. The Teamset Pro retails for approx. $310/set. The new scala rider G4 PowerSet is now available through select distributors, retail outlets, specialty motorcycle shops, and directly from the Cardo Systems web site at www.cardosystems.com with a suggested retail price of $489.95/set.
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BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
SUZUKI NEW GSX-R MODELS
Suzuki announced the arrival of two brand-new GSX-R sportbike models to its 2011 lineup at their annual dealer meeting in Las Vegas. These include new, redesigned and upgraded versions of the class-leading GSXR600 and GSX-R750 sportbikes, and feature a variety of updates and innovations. These new GSX-R models present the most radically changed new versions of the GSX-R lineup since the game-changing 1996 GSX-R models. Taking technology developed via Suzuki’s racing efforts around the world, the GSX-R models have been considerably lightened, removing nearly 20 pounds from the GSXR600 and nearly 18 pounds from the GSX-R750. These weight reductions were accumulated through lightening various components of the bike including hardware, frame, bodywork and wiring, collecting even the smallest weight savings to increase performance and improve handling. Additionally, changes to the GSXR lineup include a shortened wheelbase, reduced overhang, and improved emissions and fuel mileage. Performance upgrades to the GSX-R include the addition of a Big Piston Showa Front Fork (BPF), Brembo brakes, and an electronically controlled steering damper. The new GSX-R models also underwent restyling changes to give them a sporty, aggressive appearance, including a redesign of the tail and headlight assembly. These changes all contribute to the long legacy of the GSX-R lineup that is the foundation of Suzuki motorcycles. “We are excited about the new GSX-R models”, said Steve Bortolamedi, Senior Communications Manager for Suzuki’s Motorcycle/ATV division, “the GSX-R is the line that defines Suzuki as a brand and truly showcases the core performance DNA that is incorporated into every Suzuki product.” The GSX-R models will have a range of Genuine Suzuki Accessories available, such as an optional passenger seat cover, with a passenger seat as standard equipment for the 2011 model year. Pricing for the new GSX-R models was announced, with the GSX-R600 priced at $11,599 and the GSX-R750 priced aggressively at a mere $400 higher at $11,999. They will be hitting dealer showrooms by March 2011. Another introduction for the 2011 season is the GSXR1250FA. Boldly styled and impressively powerful, the GSX1250FA is prepared to provide excitement whether you’re out touring, commuting or if you’re simply out having some fun. The GSX1250FA, with its sportbike DNA, is a machine that can define a weekend, but can also be relied on every day of the week. The fully faired GSX1250FA has a fuel injected double overhead camshaft (DOHC) powerplant packing 1255cc of power at your service. Delivering a wide spread of power, starting low down in the rev range, the six gear transmission takes full advantage of this torque, resulting in extra smooth acceleration and inspiring power delivery...a perfect combination for long distance rides. The GSX1250FA. Exciting, stimulating and tailored for sporting comfort. It’s an allaround performer and an exceptional value starting at $11,599. For complete information on these, or any of Suzukis offerings, visit your local dealer or www.suzukicycles.com.
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NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
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631-262-0600 • www.readyriders.com
www.beemerboneyard.com USED OILHEAD & K-BIKE PARTS Hundreds of used parts at 50% off new cost or less Order online 24/7 ~ M/C, Visa, Discover or PayPal 100% money-back guarantee ~ parts ship in 24 hours
N EW MAINTENANCE PART ~ BELOW RETAIL No Backorders ~ We Stock What We Sell We now carry German Liqui-Moly Engine & Gear Oil for BMWs
973-775-3495 • M-F 10am~5pm • inquires@beemerboneyard.com
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
Page 43
Motorcycle Marketplace
All That Good Stuff
MOTORCYCLE TRAILERS DAYTONA, BIKETOBERFEST, STURGIS AND BEYOND SALES RENTALS
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From $59.95 to $139.95 Order Toll Free (877) 471-1515 Info and Fax (505) 743-2243 • www.zianet/GenMar
Gen Mar Mfg. Inc. • 110 1st Street • HC1 Box 35 • Arrey, NM 87930
Keith A. Hyche, Attorney At Law Chapter 7 Bankruptcy $1,250 including filing fees* Many other legal services are offered, please call. Free 1/2 hour initial consultation.
www.keithhyche.com • 973-300-0161
61 High St. Newton, NJ 07860 • khyche@mindspring.com
We are a debt relief agency. We help people file for bankruptcy relief under the Bankruptcy Code.
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NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
Page 44
MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE
ALL THAT GOOD STUFF
Come Ride the Dragon Deals Gap Motorcycle Motel & Restaurant
Deals Gap 318 Curves in 11 Miles
www.dealsgap.com Visit Us Online @
www.sporttouringusa.com Sport Touring Accessories 800.889.5550 H.C. 72 Box 1 • Tapoco North Carolina 28771
Sussex Hills Ltd. For All Your Harley-Davidson Needs Specializing in Motorcycle Repair, Parts & Supplies Cycle Tires Mounted & Balanced • Batteries & Hard Parts Dynojet 250 Dyno available for testing
Whippany, NJ
Succasunna, NJ
569 Route 10 East (1-1/4 miles east of I-287)
276 Route 10 West (1-3/4 miles south of I-80)
973-781-9090
973-589-7000
M/F: 8-7 • Sat: 9-5 • Sun: 12-4
M/F: 8-7 • Sat: 9-5 • Sun: 10-4
Proprietor Norman Gross • Since 1976
Our Reputation Speaks for Itself 973-875-2048 946 Rte. 23 South, Sussex NJ 07461 3 miles north of Sussex Borough
Motorcycle Touring Bible arrives on shelves in November. You can pre-order your copy today at 25% off retail price. Log onto www.motorbooks.com and use this code (MC10) when checking out
NEW TOUR!
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January 10-23, 2011
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with Dave Edwards
for the touring and sport-touring rider
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(former Cycle World editor)
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
Page 45
Motorcycle Marketplace
All That Good Stuff
320 Front Street Belvidere, NJ
123 Bantam Lake Rd. Route 209 • Bantam, CT
www.thisilldous.com • 908-475-2274 Member
(Next to Bantam Cinema)
Enjoy quaint Victorian Belvidere and scenic Warren County
860-567-YUMY (9869) www.WoodsPitBBQ.com Open Lunch & Dinner Tuesday - Sunday
Sharing your passion for good food since 1983 Breakfast • Lunch • Espresso Cafe
(Closed Mondays)
Paul Haas • Owner-Chef
As featured in June ‘10 Backroads’ BBQs
Ice Cream and Dessert • Catering Off-Premise Worth the ride from anywhere!
Open Daily 7am to 4pm • Sunday 7am to 1pm Try our Full Throttle Breakfast Special every Saturday + Sunday Thisilldous is New Jersey’s best kept secret. Maybe the best luncheonette in the State • Star Ledger
The Riverton
Travel along the scenic backroads of the Delaware river. Meet the Markopoulos family and taste chef George’s Greek American cooking. Best bar menu, lunch or dinner. Fresh poppers, perogies, calamari, clams and crispy wings with 8 different sauces.
Tues. thru Sat. 11am-10pm Sunday: Breakfast 9am-Noon Lunch and Dinner served until 9pm
John, Christina, chef George and Eoanna welcome you and your friends.
The Riverton Hotel and Restaurant
Member of
At Belvidere-Riverton Free Bridge, Riverton, PA
610-498-4241 • www.rivertonhotel.com lley’s Hudson Va ne Riding Number O t Restauran Barbeque W North 1076 Route 9 mery, NY Fort Montgo
oute 9W icturesque R Located on P Perkins Drive minutes from State Park and Harriman Point historic West just south of
845-446-0912 rmerbbq.com www.barnsto
Ask about our Diners Club. Gift Cards available.
Featured in July 2009 Great All American Diner Run
‘50s-Style Drive-In Restaurant Full and Varied Menu Room for the Whole Gang The Fall colors are here - take a ride to the country and visit
THE CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN GREAT FOOD • GOOD TIMES • EXCELLENT RIDING
If you go home hungry it’s your own fault
Located at Ross’ Corners • 1 Route 15 • Augusta NJ • 973-300-2300
www.chatterboxdrivein.com
THE BOAT HOUSE RESTAURANT The Only Outdoor Lakeside Dining on Swartswood Lake
Serving Lunch and Dinner Tuesday Thru Sunday 11am - 9pm • closed Mondays 1040 Cty Rd 521 Swartswood, NJ
973-300-0016 www.theboathouserestaurantonline.com
NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS SOME COOL, AND HOT, ITEMS FROM TWISTED THROTTLE
Oxford Heated Grips offer a simple installation, adjustable heat settings and a waterproof electronic controller. This system has an open-ended grip design with a fused direct to battery, plug-n-play connection for an easy installation. No crimping or soldering required. The LED controller has 4 heat settings for a maximum draw of 48 watts/4.0 amps. The controller also has the ability to sense battery depletion and automatically shut off. Available in both a touring and sport textured grip from TwistedThrottle.com for $79.95.
The Twisted Throttle Slipstream is an aerodynamic and versatile tail bag. Carrying a gallon of milk or a six pack has never been so stylish. The shape of this bag allows it to be placed on a wide range of motorcycles from a race-bred sportbike to a V-Twin cruiser. Securing this bag to the bike is accomplished with 2 included sets of soft ties or bungee connectors. Two outside pockets, reflective piping, a removable dry bag, backpack carrying straps and an integrated external bungee net complete this indispensable motorcycle accessory selling for $99.99. Application and fit notes available at twistedthrottle.com
GIVI’S TREKKER SERIES Taking the combination of style and functionality to the next level With over 30 years of injection-molded cases GIVI finally breaks the “mold” with their new aluminum Trekker series. With GIVI’s continual efforts to understand and adjust to market trends in line with their proven designs and technical innovations comes the new dual purpose polypropylene/aluminum Trekker case series. The new GIVI Trekker series is designed to offer the functionality, durability and style associated with GIVI cases to meet the more rugged and demanding needs of the dual-purpose market. The new Trekker series is offered in 2 sizes, 33 liter and 46 liter incorporating the standard full lid opening (clam shell opening) as well as an optional top lid opening for convenient top loading selected by way of a toggle latch. The Trekker is molded in durable polypropylene and the lid is finished with brush aluminum panels secured by stylish, protective molded bands, the fully waterproof Trekker series comes complete with a patented GIVI latch mechanism. The Trekker is also available as a complete 3 case set up TRKPACK3 including 2 x TRK33N and 1 x TRK46N and will be supplied with matching locks and keys. Additional accessories available for the Trekker series will include, top case back rest, top case luggage rack, custom inner bags and cargo net securing hooks. The TRK33N 33 liter version retails for $320.00 each and the TRK46N 46 liter version retails for $335.00 each, finally the 3-case TRKPACK3 retails for $925.00. GIVI USA anticipates delivery of the new Trekker series at the end of this year. For more information visit www.giviusa.com.
TWO NEW JACKETS FOR MEN & WOMEN FROM HARLEY-DAVIDSON MEN’S DESTROYER JACKET
Functional Performance from the Holiday Collection
Made from tough, 100 percent 600-denier polyester with a poly-mesh lining, the new men’s Destroyer Functional Jacket is a shining star of the Holiday Collection in the Harley-Davidson MotorClothes line. Its zip-out, removable, quilted 3M(r) Thinsulate vest and three zippered air vents deliver custom climate control, while removable lightweight body armor at the shoulders and elbows, plus a back body armor pocket, offer increased protection. To optimize riding comfort, the Destroyer features pre-curved sleeves with power-stretch elbows, adjustable cuffs and waist tabs, and power-stretch at the back waist. Its three zippered pockets offer easily accessible storage, and 3M Scotchlite Reflective Material piping increases the jacket’s visibility in low-light conditions. Available in S - 5XL and Tall sizes.
WOMEN’S STORMY JACKET
Hit the mark this holiday season with the new women’s Stormy Functional Jacket from the Harley-Davidson MotorClothes line. It’s constructed of water-resistant, 100 percent nylon with a poly-mesh lining, plus the added versatility of a removable, quilted vest liner. Dual zippered vents at the front and back allow easy climate control in all temperatures. The slightly pre-curved sleeves incorporate snap-down tabs, complementing the adjustable waist and cuffs for a custom fit. Lightweight, removable body armor at the elbows and shoulders deliver added protection, while 3M Scotchlite Reflective Material piping and graphics keeps you visible in low-light conditions. Available in XS - 3W and Tall sizes. For additional information on Harley-Davidson MotorClothes Apparel and Collectibles, see your local Harley-Davidson dealer or visit harley-davidson.com.
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
Rip & Ride® • GOURMET EXPRESSIONS 307 MAIN ST., LEBANON, NJ 08833 908-975-3042 • WWW.GOURMET-EXPRESSIONS.COM APPROX. 60 MILES O/W • 110 R/T
START: CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN ROUTES 206 AND 15 - AUGUSTA, NJ SOUTH RTE. 206 RIGHT OLD PRICE RD. LEFT AT AUGUSTA HILL RD. LEFT AT CR 519 RIGHT AT CR 626 DOUBLE BRIDGES LEFT AT PARSONS RD. RIGHT AT JUNCTION RD. RIGHT AT CR 622 LEFT AT RIDGE RD. IMMEDIATE RIGHT TO DOVE ISLAND RD. LEFT AT EAST SHORE DRIVE CR 619 RIGHT AT FREDON RD - CR 610 LEFT AT CR 521 LEFT AT STONE BRIDGE RD. RIGHT AT STILLWATER RD. RIGHT AT LINCOLN LAUREL RD. LEFT AT RTE. 94 RIGHT AT MOTT RD. RIGHT AT KERRS CORNER RD. LEFT AT LANNING RD. LEFT AT HOPE/ JOHNSONBURG RD. CR 519 RIGHT AT SOUTH TOWN RD. RIGHT AT HELLER RD. NARROW, TWISTY! LEFT AT STATE PARK RD. BEAR RIGHT AT FARVIEW RD. LEFT AT CR 611 - HOPE RD. RIGHT AT MARBLE HILL RD. RIGHT AT FREE UNION RD. LEFT QUENDY MOUNTAIN RD. CROSS RTE. 46 RIGHT AT PEQEUST RD. LEFT AT JANE CHAPEL RD. RIGHT AT JACKSON VALLEY RD. LEFT AT HOFFMAN RD. RIGHT AT CR 629 LEFT AT RTE. 57 RIGHT AT PENWELL RD. RIGHT AT TURKEY TOP RD. CAMP BERNIES RIGHT AT MT. LEBANON RD. LEFT AT ANTHONY RD. RIGHT SLICKER RD.
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RIGHT AT HIGH BRIDGE CALIFON RD. CR 513 LEFT AT CR 512 RIGHT GUINEA HOLLOW RD. STRAIGHT TO MAIN ST. GOURMET EXPRESSIONS ON RIGHT RETURN TO CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN LEFT ON MAIN ST RIGHT ONTO SAW MILL RD LEFT ONTO CR 517 STRAIGHT ONTO FAIRMOUNT RD CROSS RTE. 24 ONTO SCHOOLEYS MOUNTAIN RD LEFT ONTO PLEASANT GROVE RD RIGHT ONTO MT. LEBANON RD RIGHT ONTO OLD TURNPIKE RD LEFT ONTO STEPHENSBURG RD LEFT ONTO RTE. 57 RIGHT ONTO HEISLER RD LEFT ONTO WATTERS RD IMMEDIATE RIGHT ONTO THOMAS RD RIGHT ONTO CR 629 IMMEDIATE LEFT ONTO SNYDER RD RIGHT ONTO MT. BETHEL RD LEFT ONTO BARKERS MILL RD LEFT ONTO US 46 RIGHT ONTO WATER ST LEFT ONTO RYAN RD RIGHT ONTO CR 613 CROSS OVER I-80 LEFT ONTO LONG BRIDGE RD LEFT ONTO QUAKER CHURCH RD LEFT ONTO CR 612 RIGHT ONTO SOUTH ST RIGHT ONTO HAMILTON ST LEFT ONTO HENRY ST LEFT ONTO HIBLER ST RIGHT ONTO CR 519 LEFT ONTO HUNTS RD RIGHT ONTO HUNTS POND RD LEFT ONTO FREDON FRENDELL RD RIGHT ONTO RTE. 94 LEFT ONTO WARNER RD LEFT ONTO STILLWATER STATION RD LEFT ONTO FREDON RD RIGHT ONTO SADDLE BACK RD RIGHT ONTO CR 521 RIGHT ONTO CR 626 LEFT ONTO RTE. 206 NORTH TO CHATTERBOX
NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
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Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully Brian Rathjen
A column dedicated to your riding survival
Pain Free Riding
When riding it is always best to keep your head in the game and not let your mind drift too far from the myriad of tasks you have to take care of to pilot you and your machine to your destination safely. Pain can be one of the worst things to experience when riding. It steals your concentration. It robs you of pleasure. It makes you a target for all the bad that can happen while riding a motorcycle. I have found, time and again, that steady doses of exercise can keep me stay virtually free of many aches and pains. Diet and a stable regiment of exercise all sound great on paper; but in the real world it is very difficult to keep steady and true to an ultra-healthy day to day program - especially if you ride a lot and spend a great deal of time on the road far from home and your friendly neighborhood gym.
Shira and I do a fairly decent job when we are home to get to the gym most days of the week. Years ago we were real gym rats, and have the trophies to prove it, but the rediscovery of the world of food and culinary delights slowly put those days behind us. Still, we do a good job of keeping physically active when we’re home. The problem is we’re rarely at home for very long; and therein lies the problem.
This year we got an early start to the riding season and by mid-summer we had some serious miles behind us. As much as I say I would get to a local gym, go for a run or even do some exercises in the hotel room while on the road I inevitably did not. Foolish me. In late July a back spasm had me on the floor for 10 minutes before I was able to get into the house and to the relative comfort of the couch. A Best Back Supporter and numerous massages at various towns helped me continue through the summer riding. At home I usually treat this with a series of visits to our chiropractor and massage therapist; but by then the damage is already done and it is weeks before I feel totally pain free. It seems that each year, like clockwork, right around Labor Day Weekend I get a tightness in my left shoulder that will radiate down my arm. It was so painful this year that at night I thought I might have broken the arm. Our chiropractor was on vacation as was Maggie, the Massage Nazi (and I mean that in a good way. Really!), so I was forced to seek out my regular GP for some relief which of course came in the form of scripts for muscle relaxants and Hydrocodone Bitartrate and Acetaminophen, also know as Vicodin. Well, call me Greg House. Although they both offered pain relief they didn’t do the rest of my body any good and I would only take them when not riding and heading to bed. I wouldn’t want to play with a Matchbox car with this stuff. Eventually I got to Newton Health & Wellness for a few visits; but still I wasn’t getting totally better. This ultra-slow recovery was getting me very frustrated - being Kryptonian and all, you understand. Eventually, as the season wore down, we had more and more days at home. This allowed me to get back to the gym. Ahh, the gym. I started out slowly. No reason to dive back in only to be carried back out. Full body workouts, lots of stretching (something that I need to triple up on) and plenty of water throughout the day. Rather than walk down to get the mail, I trotted. With some of the Autumn storms that had ripped through the property I had plenty of exercise just moving trees and cutting logs. Soon I began to realize that it had been a few weeks that I hadn’t thought about taking something for the pain and that, by the God, I had finally been sleeping through the night. On the bike, riding long distances, I was comfortable and getting off the bike all I had was that ‘Butt On Fire’ feeling that we all have experienced at one time or another. The big test came unexpected one rainy morning. I was on my way to, of all places, the gym when my foot slipped on some wet leaves at the top of the steps and I suddenly found myself quickly vertical, slamming horizontally very hard down the sturdy wooden steps, my shoulder and back taking the brunt of the fall. Ouch! I lay there taking stock and Shira, hearing what she though was a Kodiak Bear or Elephant jumping on the deck, rushed to find me sprawled on the steps. She helped get me up and got some ice. Still an hour later I was at the gym. I thought for sure this fall would set me back a few months, but no. It seems that the more consistent I am at going to the gym, even for a short time during the week, the more flexible and pain free my body was and that translated into better, safer and more enjoyable motorcycle riding. If you ride and plan to continue riding then you might consider getting into some form of exercise and stretching. Do whatever. Get to the gym. Go for a run. Stretch the back, legs and arms while you are waiting for the Mr. Coffee to finish its thing. I guarantee that by just giving up a few hours each week you’ll have a far better chance of riding longer, better and more safely for a long time to come.
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
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Fall Fiesta - Vermont Style But we walked between the raindrops back to your door ~ Donald Fagen Sometimes we like to mix things up a bit. Other times we like the tried and true. For this year’s Backroads’ Fall Fiesta we did a bit of both. For the last number of seasons we have held our Summer Squeeze Rally at the Gray Ghost Inn, in West Dover, Vermont. Starting on a Sunday and running through Wednesday it gave our riders a chance to experience the great Vermont roads without the clutter of weekend tourists. But, being that we held our 15th Anniversary Rally in Fontana this July we decided to mix things up and hold our annual fall rally at one of our favorite haunts - The Gray Ghost. There have been times when we have had small group rides up to the Gray Ghost, but this year Shira and I would be riding in from the Maine coast so folks had to find their own way up, or down in some cases, to West Dover. This year we had many of our old friends and a good number of new friends as well join us for the Fall Fiesta. One couple, Lori and Rory, who we had met earlier at our Fontana Fling rally, decided to join us from Canada. We were also visited by another blast from the past as the Rain Curse, which we had thought long gone, came sneaking in that evening. Still the Gray Ghost was in fine form with a big bon fire and marshmallows finishing the night.
The next day was misty, but still rideable, so most everybody got out for some healthy miles. Other than the wet stuff our timing could not have been better as the leaves were bursting with yellows, red and orange. Even in the rain the colors were vibrant. As Magnus said, they were ‘vivified’. We had rides set up for Shelburne Falls and the Grafton Peace Pagoda as well as a route we called the Backroads Columns - which would hit a Mysterious America, Big City Getaway, Great All American Diner Run and then back to the Ghost - the perfect We’re Outta Here! With the rains getting a bit heavier we opted for Plan C which picked apart some of the rides and added some other things. We first rode to the General Store in Weston. We had been there last year and were a bit overwhelmed by just how much stuff they have for sale. After stocking up on all sorts of things we continued on to the town of Cavendish and our little Mystery America. I won’t go into details as Seymour will clue you in on page 14, but just the look on our peeps’ faces tells you this was pretty remarkable. We scooted by Calvin Coolidge’s home, more like rolling through it than actually stopping and then east to Woodstock for lunch. After lunch the rains that had been peaking around all day came in with a vengeance and we dodged raindrops for the rest of the ride along some roads
NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
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that we had never ridden before, which is always a pleasure. Magnus and Carina, with some help from Simon and Allison from the Kitzhof Inn, who handled the over flow from the sold out Gray Ghost, did their usual outstanding job with the chicken and ribs that Top: The Vermont Country Store decorated for Autumn. Right: Those crazy items found in the store. Bottom: Our Mystery Stop.
evening and we also opened up our Silent Auction, this year to benefit the children of Moquegua, Peru through Wellspring International Outreach.
We had a good number of great products for the bidding, but the biggest contributor would be a certificate for our Edelweiss trip in 2011 to the Alps. Later that night barely renowned and lackluster guitarist Johnny Rocket played for a few hours, setting up an almost bar room like feel. Just throw money! The rains returned once again and the fun stayed inside that evening and ran into the next day. The morning found the rains around for the early part of the day, but by mid-morning things had dried out and riders shot off in many different di-
rections. Some opted for a ride to Hildene, the Lincoln family home, where they ran into the folks from the British School of Falconry who were giving a demonstration with their beautiful hawks.
Top: Even a little rain won’t keep a boy from his marshmallows. Right: The Silent Auction was a good draw. Bottom: It was all smiles while hanging in the evening.
Shira and I rode towards Bennington and then on to New York at the Bennington Battlefield, that is actually in the Empire State. But, that is a story all by itself.
Looking on the Zumo to see what was around Shira found a Buffalo Farm. We took a ride over only to find the buffalo gone but the Alpacas running the place. The French Hollow Alpaca Farm outside of Cambridge, New York was very cordial and Lou, the owner, took us on a tour and we now know way more about Alpaca than I ever thought I would. I won’t go into the entire breeding process, but suffice to say it is more than dinner, wine and a movie. By this time the sun was peaking out, adding even more fire to the foliage,
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BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
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Top: Who knew the Bennington Battlefield was really in New York?
and we thought we were through with the wet, only to find it waiting for us on the other side of the Green Mountains, getting us properly soaked just miles from the Gray Ghost. While most ventured into the rains this day others made it a movie day and rode down to the local theatre, that had opened just for them, and took in some flicks. Hey, it was something to do. At 6 pm on the nose we ended this year’s auction and rounding the amount up we brought Neale Bayly, who runs the Wellspring International Outreach, and the kids of Moquegua $5,000 - a very healthy amount in that region of the world. Thank you all for being so generous and we’re looking forward to seeing Paul and Diane Donoghue on our High Alpine Adventure next summer, as they were the high bidder for the trip. Even though the semi-constant rains kept most inside that evening the Gray Ghost has plenty to do, with the game room, pool, foozball, ping pong and Ms. Pac Man to keep many occupied. The impromptu recitations of great lines from Blazing Saddles, Caddyshack and other classics had us rolling on the front porch. The wine helped.
Right: A finely-bred furry friend at the French Hollow Alpaca Farm Wednesday, of course, brought brilliant skies and warm sunshine, so at least the ride home for most would be comfortable and dry. After saying our goodbyes groups and solo riders started rolling out to all points of the compass rose. We had planned to ride with others, but somehow it was just us - which always works better for Shira and I. Along our way we ran into a few other Fall Fiesters at a fuel station, but continued our route south then west over the Hudson, near Kingston - a quick BBQ lunch and a few hours later we rolled up the drive at Backroads Central with many miles under our belts and lots of stories to tell and our twelfth Backroads’ Fall Fiesta complete. Next season will be here before you know it, so keep an eye here for details on our Spring Break and Fall Fiesta 2011. We promise you will not be disappointed.
TREBOURMOTORCYCLES
TRAMA’S
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& AUTO SCHOOL
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PHONE (212) 874-6333 (516) 541-1119 (718) 847-2015 EMAIL
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WEB WWW.TRAMAS.COM
NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
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Spring Break 2011 • May 19, 20 & 21, 2011 Join Backroads for our 13th Annual Spring Break Rally. This time around we’ll be riding to Canandaigua, New York - atop the stunning Finger Lakes of the Empire State. Our base camp will be the beautiful Inn on the Lake • www.theinnonthelake.com. The Inn on the Lake itself has everything we would need and we promise you a great time. Here you’ll find the riding easy and nature is splendid as the entire Finger Lakes are simply gorge-ous! Robert Treman, Taughannock, Watkins Glen and Letchworth Parks are all within an easy day’s ride and not to forget the dozens of wineries and restaurants that sprinkle the region. Make your reservations now as rooms are limited and they will go fast. You must call 800228-2801 and say you are booking for the Backroads Motorcycle Tourmagazine Rally for special rates and room options. Cut-off is April 1, 2011 and we ain’t fooling!
High Alpine Tour with Backroads and Edelweiss
July 17-24, 2011 • If Not Now - WHEN? Head off with Backroads’ publishers Brian & Shira for a tour of a lifetime as we join up with Edelweiss for their High Alpine Tour. Ride the roads you have dreamed of in the past - Paso Del Stelvio, the Grossglockner, the famed Dolomites. We’ll even have a day’s ride to Venice.
When: July 17 -24, 2011 In addition to this great tour, Edelweiss offers their Alps Riding Training. For those who have never ridden the Alps, it is highly recommended. For those who have, you can always learn more. You must arrive at least one day earlier to take this course. Check website for pricing and services.
For more information email Doris:
doris.waldegger@edelweissbike.com or call us at 973-948-4176.
Ride the Alps, if not now, when?
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
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CONNIE AND THE CHOCOLATE FACTORY Alisa Clickenger (MotoAdventureGal)
WARNING: This article will make you have cravings you may not have experienced before.
I’d been riding a 2008 Concours GTR1400 for several months, and the time was fast approaching for me to return the motorcycle to Kawasaki. I really enjoyed traveling on the bike, and I was sad about having to give it back. What was a girl to do? Console herself with chocolate? Go for a ride? I decided to do both. I geared up and headed for Route 7 in Connecticut. Twisty, windy, and scenic, Route 7 is a fun North-South that runs through Connecticut, Massachusetts and Vermont. In the riding season Route 7 has a constant stream of all makes of motorcycles, especially on weekends. I began with the Connecticut “Scenic Road” portion and made my way to Kent, CT. First stop: Belgique Pâtisserie & Chocolatier in Kent, CT. Hard to miss painted in bright yellow, Belgique offers a wide array of delectable treats made in-house. If you’ve ever heard the phrase “too pretty to eat”, Belgique is the place that coined the term. Artisan Belgian chocolates are just the beginning. The hand-made ice creams and sorbets are very popular, and Chef Pierre Gilissen makes a bitter chocolate ganache that will have you wondering if you can simply live on chocolate. Other specialties include filled chocolates (known as “pralines” in Belgium), mousses, and the “Miserable” cake—almond layers with vanilla buttercream in between. Belgique is only open Thursday through Sunday 10 am to 6 pm, and it’s well worth making one of those days your ride day. If parking on gravel is not your thing, you can park on Main Street, Kent, with all the other motorcyclists and tourists that flock there on weekends, and walk to Belgique. Parking on Main Street Kent will most likely put you in front of the Kent Coffee and Chocolate Company. This is a popular stop for motorcyclists on the East side of Main Street. It’s a place to see and be seen, and Kent is a delightful Main-Street-New-England town that offers lots of window-shopping and a quaint place to stretch your legs after several hours in the saddle. Kent Coffee and Chocolate Company has been serving up java and chocolate in this location for over 18 years. Plenty of local residents stop in for their daily caffeine fix, as well as lots of weekenders up from New York City.
Add the Kent School (Kent, CT) students, parents, plus the motorcyclists that make Kent Coffee & Chocolate Company their midway stopping point on Route 7, and you’ve got a bustling business. Owner Sandra Champlain is a Culinary School graduate, and with the help of her sister they make and sell over twenty-five pounds of chocolate a day. Be sure to try one of their truffles—it will undoubtedly set the standard for every other truffle in your life. Their exotic caramels are highly addictive, so I had them pack a few in a box to make sure I had room for one of their turtles. Don’t know what a turtle is? It’s a dreamy combination of chocolate, soft caramel, and toasted pecans. Kent Coffee and Chocolate Company is open 7 am - 7 pm, 7 days a week.
A little perkier from my ride and chocolate consumption, I put my helmet on, fired up the Concours, and continued north on Route 7. The portion north of Kent hugs the Housatonic River almost to the state line, making it one of the most popular roadways in the state. One can usually see equal numbers of fly fishermen and Great Blue Herons wading in the shallows and eddies of the river, something to be aware of as you are tempted to wick it up in the corners. Most fishermen park and change alongside the road. If you are lucky, as I’ve been a couple of times, sometimes you might spy a bald eagle soaring the more remote portions of the valley over the river. Four and a half miles north of Kent is Kent Falls State Park. I decided to stop here and get a wee bit of exercise after my wee bit of chocolate. Several motorcyclists and families had the same idea, and the lawn was filled with picknickers, frisbee throwers, cavorting dogs and gleeful children. There is a covered bridge crossing the stream, and then it’s a short walk to the falls. The view is impactful, so be sure to bring your camera. Kent Falls is actually a series of falls, and the main cascade drops dramatically about 70 feet alongside the path. The entire walk is only about a quarter mile, but it’s steep, which is a good thing if you eat lots of chocolate. Kent Falls State Park has a parking fee in effect Memorial Day - Labor Day. Back on the Concours and heading north again, it started to drizzle a little bit so I passed up stopping at Stonewall Dairy (~2 miles north of Kent Falls, on the left side). Stonewall Dairy is a local place that sells whole milk. In a glass container. It’s one of the few places you can buy a gallon of milk that’s not pasteurized. I know it’s a difficult thing to carry on a motorbike, but if you’ve got a bagger consider it. At $6 per gallon it’s not cheap, but where else can you see the cow your milk came from? Special note: Stonewall Dairy is not well marked, and if you are riding north it’s a 45 degree left hand turn on
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a corner. Better to approach headed south. It’s a farm so the driveway is dirt, and there’s, well, it’s a farm. An alternative option would be to stop and take pictures at the West Cornwall Bridge where Route 128 meets Route 7.
The fifteen miles from West Cornwall to the Massachusetts border are a great stretch of riding. The new-ish asphalt is smooth, the roads are narrow and curvy, and the feeling is one of being closed in with the river on one side, and the ridge that hosts the Appalachian trail on the other. This section of the Housatonic River is favored by paddlers, and in the summertime Clarke Outdoors (which you’ll pass on the left going north) sends a whole flotilla of orange rafts and green canoes downstream to keep the tourists happy. A regular shuttle service ensures that you’re not away from your motorcycle too long. Open seasonally. Just over the border there’s another covered bridge in Sheffield, Massachusetts. You cannot drive over this one, but it’s a good place to stretch your legs. Main Street Sheffield is “antique alley” so if you are searching for oldtime treasures, this is your spot to stop. Route 7 gets less scenic in the town of Great Barrington, and I felt my spirits begin to sag. My next stop appeared just at that moment on the GPS: Catherine’s Chocolates. Now run by Cather-
NOVEMBER 2010 • BACKROADS
ine’s daughter and grandson, they are celebrating their 50th anniversary of the store in the Berkshires. If the name Catherine’s chocolates is tickling your memory, it may be because they started making chocolate in the 1920’s and expanded to seven stores in the New York Area. Favorites here are the ButterKrunch, Cordial cherries, and since you are now in the Berkshires, and if it’s not too hot, take home their Berkshire Assortment box to share the joy. My zingy favorite is the chocolate-coated ginger. Open 9-6 most days, shorter hours on Sunday. Back on the motorcycle again another fifteen miles I arrived at my final destination: Chocolate Springs Cafe. Their web site says “Escape into Chocolate”, and although they were the last of my stops this day, they were the inspiration for the day’s ride. I’d been to the Springs before, late Fall, riding on a terribly cold day. Their hot chocolate was simply nirvana in a cup. This visit I had a chance to chat with chocolatier, creator and owner Joshua Needleman, and learned of his passion for perfection in chocolate. (He came out to check my motor-
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2010
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cycle in the parking lot) Joshua has a strong interest in Japanese aesthetics and a solid background in the European chocolate tradition, which he combined to create Chocolate Springs Cafe six years ago. He’s been involved with chocolate for most of his adult life, and not only believes in the therapeutic benefits of chocolate but also the intangible comforts of it as well. At Chocolate Springs, chocolate is elevated to a form of art. There are chocolate sculptures, delicacies and delights that look like they belong in a museum. Special orders are common, as are intricate creations made with delicate blends of flavors. But don’t get the impression that it’s only high-end chocolate here. There are lots of different shapes, sizes and confections. They have something for everyone— including chocolate bars shaped like a motorcycle. With row upon row of chocolate delight, it is tough to decide exactly which temptation to succumb to. But do it because the experience is unparalleled. Open Sunday-Thursday 10-9 and Friday-Saturday 10-10. A girl cannot live on chocolate alone, so I geared up one last time and turned the bike around. After a lovely afternoon riding in the Litchfield Hills and the Berkshires, it was time to turn towards home. Adequately consoled by chocolate, it was time to finish my last ride on the Concours. Thanks, Kawasaki, for making my Escape into Chocolate so much fun. Belgique Pâtisserie & Chocolatier 1 Bridge Street, Kent, CT • 860-927-3681 Kent Coffee and Chocolate Company 8 Main Street, Kent, CT • 860-927-1445 Catherine’s Chocolate 260 Stockbridge Road, Great Barrington, MA 800-345-2462
Chocolate Springs Café 55 Pittsfield/Lenox Road, Lenox, MA 413-637-9820 Stonewall Dairy 332 Kent Road, Cornwall Bridge, CT 860-672-2759
Read more on Alisa’s travels on www.motoadventuregal.com
Rollin’ Fast Cycle Sports
104 Main Street, Lebanon, New Jersey 08833 908.236.9000 • www.rollinfast.com STORE HOURS: MON, TUES, WED, FRI 9-6 • THURS 9-7 • SATURDAY 9-5