NOVEMBER
2016
Vol. 22 No. 11
DESTINATION: NEW YORK
NEW YORK STATE OF MIND
W H A T ’ S
I N S I D E 24
MO NT HLY C O L U M NS FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................4
Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure
WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................5 POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................6
Publishers
Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil
ON THE MARK ....................................................7
Contributors
Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Byrd, Dr. Seymour O’Life
THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD ..........................8 BACKLASH..........................................................9
Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 317 Branchville NJ 07826
INDUSTRY INFOBITES .....................................11 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ..............14
36
MYSTERIOUS AMERICA..................................16 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ........................................18
phone
973.948.4176
BIG CITY GETAWAY .........................................20
fax
973.948.0823
INSIDE SCOOP .................................................42
editor@backroadsusa.com
WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE ............................46
online
www.backroadsusa.com
UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ...................48
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973-948-4176
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NEW YAWK STATE OF MIND ..........................24
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BONUS WE’RE OUTTA HERE ..........................36
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FE AT U RE S
BONUS BIG CITY GETAWAY ...........................38 BONUS BONUS BIG CITY GETAWAY.............40 CROSS COUNTRY CYCLE BIKE SHOW ..........44
PR O DU C T R E V IE W S MOTORCYCLING THE RIGHT WAY .................13 TOURATECH ADJUSTABLE MIRRORS...........15 CONTINENTAL TKC 70 TIRES..........................23
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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2016. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS
FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN
The Backroads effecT I was talking with a buddy of mine, Brad, the other day. I have known Brad for about ten years or so, having first met him when he was brought up to our home to overnight before one of Fall Fiesta rallies – this particular one in Saratoga Springs, New York. Brad ended up with us as he was joining anther friend, Dick, who we had met in France a number of years before then. Both guys hail from the Philly region and Dick had talked Brad into coming along on this New Jersey-based magazine’s rally in the Adirondacks. Both guys rode up along the Delaware on a sunny September day and made their way to our home for the overnight. Thus began one of dozens of friendships that have taken root and blossomed because of Backroads. Ten years ago Brad showed up with minimal gear, but a well-built smile and a super friendly attitude. These days his riding gear is cutting edge and his attitude and friendliness is infectious. He had called just to see what was up and how things were; as we usually see Brad and the others, of what I call the Philly Boys, during our spring and fall events. Still, we talk, email and occasionally get together for lunch or dinner during the summer. He mentioned that he and the boys had met another friend, Helene, during the Democratic Convention. I met Helene way before I knew Brad, as she came on a charity ride we had put together and I was immediately taken with her outgoing and bright personality and superior riding skills. We have been friends for a long, long time.
Helene works for NBC News and was down in Philly working the convention. Knowing this Brad had arranged for a bunch of them to meet up and spend the day on the water waverunning. I was glad to hear this and Brad said it was like a little Backroads rally during dinner that evening. I said it was what Shira and I call the Backroads Effect. The Backroads Effect is this unique condition that seems to have developed over the years. Riders who would not have known of each other have met, befriended and had relationships blossom from coming along on the many Backroads events we have held over the years (51 and counting). I am always pleased when the effect is happening. When I hear of dinners happening, rides coming together and friends gathering for a good time; especially when I know that these comrades first met on a Backroads event. When it is all said and done knowing we have brought so many riders together for so many miles is as much success as we could ever hope for. But, the Backroads Effect is a bit more than simply a gathering of folks, who happen to ride motorcycles, find each other. It occurs specifically when these riders are like-minded in their thoughts and outlook on life and especially riding. We have long sought to lead by example when it comes to proper riding gear. Riding attitude and our own skill improvement is a big part of what makes Backroads… Backroads; and we feel we are on the right and steady track. Especially when we see the gradual evolvement of riders who come into the fold or attend our events thinking of their motorcycle and their riding in a lackadaisical manner (or not at all) and then, seeing how others approach their riding, begin to upgrade the gear they choose and the temperament and skill at which they pilot their machines. It is human nature to want to improve and we hope that for many, Backroads has been a vehicle for that. (Continued on Page 45)
IT’S AMAZING THE NUMBER OF GREAT PEOPLE IN MY LIFE THAT I WOULDN’T HAVE EVER MET IF IT WASN’T FOR MOTORCYCLES
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016
WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL
on any someday On Any Sunday stretching up, reaching high Leaving my Monday World behind I fire my rockets and explode in the sky Kick up my heels until I find, I’m Flyin’ On Any Sunday, chase the echoes of dreams I touch the yesterday of gold Something inside of me goes back through the years.... And I’m a kid I used to know, I’m Flying On Any Sunday – Bruce Brown I’m pretty sure that anyone who rides, and has been riding for a long time, has heard this song and seen this documentary. One of my favorite scenes is the little ones, racing around – first on bicycles and then on to small motorized two-wheelers. These little kids have huge dreams, whether it be tearing around a track, jumping berms or going as fast as a person can on a motorcycle. Their ideas of riding a motorcycle are endless, the possibilities of where it can take them infinite. Although I was not a youth in years when I learned to ride, I still had those dreams of traveling the world on two wheels. I had the good fortune of growing up with parents who had instilled that wanderlust in my genes, and had the time (being teachers) to take us on long summer journeys. We saw this beautiful country as well as a couple of others, which started the wheels of my mind turning. As I grew and started traveling on my own, I was amazed at those around me who did not have the desire to see other cultures. Living on the west side of the Hudson, I took advantage of all that NYC had to offer – making frequent trips to the many museums, concert halls and other such places. Yet, so many of the kids I grew up with could not find the gumption
Page 5 to leave the safe haven of our town. Amazing. Brian and I have been very fortunate to have visited many wonderful and diverse places, meeting some amazing people and seeing their beautiful homelands. I still feel like that little kid with wide eyes whenever we travel near or far, taking in all the great history, architecture and, yes, foods of different places. We have a large framed map hanging on our wall, with red pushpins showing all the places we’ve been and blue for those on our future list to see. We gave the same map to my folks and I aspire to have as many pins as they do – we’re getting there slowly. On of the most asked question I get is, ‘Of all the places you’ve been, what was your favorite trip?’ It’s a very tough one to answer, as each one has its own special place in my mind and heart. My answer gives one or two of those on the top of my list, and invariably, the questioner will say, ‘Someday I’ll get to those too.’ When we’re young, and have those wide eyes and large travel appetites, the menu of places we’d like to see is vast. We think, one by one, we’ll get to them all. In truth, the hardest part of getting through that menu is to make the choice of where to start and actually get to it. Beginning with new jobs, starting families, more responsibilities and ‘grownup’ chores, the time starts to whittle down and, before we know it, the vast list may have grown too large for the time we can give it. Of course, most folks can’t just jump on their motorcycles and disappear for a month at a time, but taking a long weekend here and there is doable. Getting to Ushuaia or North Cape may have to wait, but if visiting the easternmost point of the US to see the sunrise is on your list, that should be done now. Make a list, by length of time needed, of the places you’d most like to see and then make a definite date to do that. Most importantly – STICK TO IT. Don’t let ambiguity and procrastination interfere. (Continued on Page 45)
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS
weren’t being used much, and they will no doubt return soon because Winter Is Coming. But just when I was starting to get a bit frustrated I bumped into a State Trooper who had just arrived at the Quickie Mart portion of this fuBILL HEALD eling depot and in the trunk of his brand-new Taurus Police Interceptor there were in fact a stunning set of jumper cables. As we fiddled about getting a Badge, a spark and a cog things ready for the official State Boost, we chatted about his new car and I Sometimes you have to give thanks, and this was curious how he felt about the change from the Crown Vic to this much month I must begin with a thankee to the Conmore contemporary hunk of hardware. He had some issues, and thought some necticut State Police. Specifically, kudos go to a changes (like less rearward visibility) were problematic, but overall his issues Trooper (who’s name I shall protect because I forwere fairly minor and nothing Ford would be overly upset about. Before you got what it was) that helped me in my hour of need. The story is as follows: could say Steve McQueen, the Triumph roared to life and I thanked my savior I had just gassed up the Triumph at, you guessed it, a gas station. After disprofusely, especially since he was on his way home and was just stopping to pensing said gas into the tank, I mounted up, turned the key, hit the button grab a gallon of milk and here had to deal with this aged, leather clad Bikey. and the machine lit up (as is their wont) yet the starter did a brief crankette Lovely chap. and then nothing. After a few tries it was obvious to me I wasn’t going anyAs the possibility of push-starting the bike earlier got the wheels turning where. “Battery insufficiently charged” seemed to be the culprit, and I real(well, not exactly but you know what I mean), I pondered about how that ized although the bike had been started a couple used to be a regular way to get bikes started when of times on the day’s errands I never began the I DO LOVE ALL THE ADVANCED ENGINE MANAGEMENT ON MY they were down on electrons, or the primary way day with a full electrical deck (it had been sitting TRIUMPH (AND EVEN THE CLOCK, WHICH MY YE OLDE BIKES to start a race bike. Of course, the brilliant inclufor a couple of weeks). I obviously started fine sion of a kick-starter made cranking the engine when I left the house, but hadn’t ridden enough DON’T HAVE) BUT IT SURE PLAYS HELL WITH THE BATTERY an ultra-reliable affair, until compression went charging miles to have sufficient e-welly to crank CHARGE STATE WHEN PARKED FOR A COUPLE OF WEEKS. up, cylinders increased in number and low and the engine after tootling about for a bit. These behold: an electric starter was not only a convenmodern bikes burn electrons while parked at a higher rate than many of the ience but damn near a necessity. The motorcycle I took my license test on old ones, and due to fuel injection and electronic engine management they (was it a Kawasaki, or a Suzuki? It was a friend’s bike and I don’t remember) need a lot of juice to get going, too. Push starting often doesn’t not work, eihad both a kick-starter and an electric, which I thought was radically cool at ther. It’s best to start out with a “full” battery to avoid problems, and as I the time. But I am wandering afield of what I wanted to mention about all hadn’t charged the battery on my normal schedule I take the blame. this, which is how much I love the conventional motorcycle transmission But I still needed to get home, you know? Thinking quickly and then acting and will be reluctant if the day comes for me to give up me clutch. slowly, I pushed the bike away from the pumps and, using every bit of disAs you know the manufacturers have been tinkering (as is their wont) with arming charm I could muster, I asked various patrons if they had any jumper new ways of shifting gears. The experience of riding a two-wheeler that doescables. This was the time of day where a lot of contractors were stopping in, n’t have a clutch isn’t new of course; it’s an odd experience if you’ve been and they had pickups and thus I thought cables would be easy to come across. riding “big” bikes for ages and jump on a scooter and argh, there be no gear I was wrong. Everybody was really polite, and a couple of guys even apoloshifting, matey. This seems to work really well on these lightweight magized for not having them (now that’s REALLY polite), but there were none chines, and you soon get completely used to not having a clutch (and the few to be had. It seems like the jumpers had disappeared over the summer as they (Continued on Page 45)
POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016
ON THE MARK MARK ByERS
The projecT Zone There’s working, and there’s a project. The former implies you’re doing a repair or preventive maintenance that comprises a fairly short effort. The latter implies an extended period, perhaps measured in a day’s time to multiple years. Regrettably, at my house “working” usually turns into a “project.” It starts with maintenance that has to be done and a free evening that presents the opportunity for muchneeded de-stressing in the garage. “I’ll bang that out in a couple hours tonight” is a familiar refrain. Those words, spoken in the comfort of a garage, carry all the danger a comment like “watch this” does on the trail. Let me illustrate: a newly-acquired, used dual-sport needs an oil change and I decide to do this task one night after dinner. I’ve got oil and filter, an empty vessel to contain used oil, and an appropriate, chilled malt beverage. I start by looking for my reading glasses, which after ten minutes of desperate search, are found pushed up on my head. Then, I need a light. They have one called a “trouble light:” an incandescent bulb surrounded by a wire cage with a hook on top, with which one can illuminate a workspace. The name really stems from the device itself, which invariably has a blown bulb, a broken plug, or a frayed cable that requires fixing prior to the actual job. A real plus is the absence of a spare bulb, replacement plug, or roll of electrical tape to effect such repairs. Once the workspace is illuminated, tool selection may begin. On this bike, the skid plate fails to have a properly-positioned hole through which the oil drain plug may be removed; however, the skid plate comes off with the removal of just four bolts. At the toolbox, I select three sizes of metric sockets and an appropriate ratchet. After trying all three sockets, I realize the previ-
Page 7 ous owner has thoughtfully decided to begin the conversion of the bike from metric to English fasteners starting with the bolts in the skid plate. This is a warning sign and a sane person would immediately place the bike on Craigslist and hope it gets stolen immediately. Off to the tool box again for a new set of three sockets (the “Goldilocks theory” wherein you select one that is just right and one on either side, in case you are wrong). Luckily, the middle socket fits and I being removal of the plate. I SAID, I begin removal of the plate. DAMMIT, come off there you &^%$#@! Apparently, the metric-to-English conversion had some glitches wherein the threads of the fastener didn’t exactly match those of the machine. Finally, after application of way too much force, the fastener yields. When I say “yields,” I mean the classic engineering term wherein the force applied exceeds the elastic load limit and the head twists off. This is accompanied by my knuckles hitting a protruding suspension dogbone, producing exquisite pain and a substantial amount of displaced skin and blood. I find profligate profanity helps alleviate that pain, especially quadruple-compound epithets of exquisite offensiveness. I have now entered the “Project Zone.” Off to the toolbox for a drill and bit with which I can make a hole into the fastener. It’s a shame I don’t have a rotisserie on which to place the bike so I can get to the twisted-off bolt without being a contortionist. It wouldn’t matter, however, because invariably the next step is to break off a drill bit in the broken piece of bolt inside the engine case. I’ll spare you more gory details about finally getting the skid plate off, only to realize it’s for a different brand of bike and can never be properly reinstalled. I’ll spare you the story of the cross-threaded oil drain plug. I’ll spare you the path worn in the floor from many trips to the toolbox to retrieve an ever-increasing array of tools until pretty much everything in the rollaway has been deposited in the vicinity of the patient. And that “quick job?” When I finally wash my bloody, scabbed hands free of fluids, it’s past two in the morning and I have a meeting in the morning that it’s dead-nuts-certain will (Continued on Page 45) cause me to fall asleep.
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016
Page 9
BACKLASH Hi Brian and Shira, Funny thing happened on my trip to the local grocery store yesterday in Monson, MA. I heard a couple of bikes behind me and when I turned around I caught a quick glimpse of a BMW with Backroads stickers on the side cases, could it be? Then I spotted the second rider with the very unique blue and yellow riding suit, yes it was true, it was Brian and Shira going through my town. Now I wondered where had they been, where were they going? Did they try any of our local eateries, did Shira find Jeannines (ice cream) in Ware, MA? Well I’m certainly looking forward to the issue that features the story that answers my questions. Maybe next time you are in the area you can contact me and we can get together for some home cooked food or sample one of our local eateries. We have a beautifully restored train depot in Palmer that has been converted into a restaurant. The trains continue to zip by on their way east and west. Take care, gary heard - monson, ma Gary, so sorry we missed you on our way to Cape Cod. Now that we know where you live, we’ll make sure to stop the next time we pass through. Brian & Shira, I just finished reading the comprehensive and complementary article about the 2016 40th annual running of the Ramapo 500. I’m glad you enjoyed yourselves. It was a pleasure to have you with us this year. I just wanted to reassure you that we are working on an alternative way of distributing the route .gpx files to participants sans the queue. Regards, fred peck, president • ramapo motorcycle club Hey Gang, As a former southerner I was really happy when I stumbled across a terrific BBQ restaurant called “When Pigs Fly” in Sharon, CT in the northwest corner of the state. Not only have I been happy with everything I’ve had there, everyone I’ve ever sent there has been happy, too, and we all know how risky it can be to take friends and relatives to a restaurant you like. My favorite is the pulled pork sandwich which is served on a bun that is almost a brioche and the BBQ baked beans. They even serve good old fashioned sweet tea. The desserts are really good, too. steve Willard steve, Thanks for the suggestions; always looking for great barbeque and we love riding in Connecticut.
Help on the Road Sooner or later, the unthinkable happens - a motorcycle breakdown away from home. Labor Day weekend, Destination: Finger Lakes Rally. Breakdown: Port Jervis. A suggestion was made to call BMG Powersports in Goshen, NY. Result: quick pick up, fair price and a great bunch of guys! And, they sell Triumph, Moto Guzzi and Aprilia. Thanks Gene. I will be back. sam porfido Hey Brian: I’m asking you because I think your more of the gadget person. I’d like to install a GPS on my old ‘02 Harley Roadglide. I know Garmin is the way to go. What’s the best / most recent model? Where should I purchase it? Online? Do you have recommendations for mounting? Any help / guidance would be appreciated. Thanks - Lou
Letters to the Editor lou, The newest Garmin Zumo for motorcycle is the 595. here is a link to their website: https://buy.garmin.com you might be able to get much better deals on the 590 or even a 665 online if you shop around. if you can get the 590 for a few hundred less it is the GPs i am using now and it works very well! They come with RAM mounts that will fit on most machines. you can make your own routes with Garmin’s BaseCamp, which you can download. if you have not used a GPs before , once you get used to it it will open up a huge number of new roads for you! i hope that helps and if you have any questions please feel free to ask, we love to help!
Looking Good Wanted to check and tell you that the cover of the current issue (Oct. 2016) is one of the best I’ve seen.... Spanktacular!!! The fall leaves with the light coming through it... perfect... well done... jerry f.
Page 10 Brian, I just had the (DirtDaze 2016) article pdf’ed and sent to me and I think it’s wonderful. Yes, the exposure for DirtDaze is great(!), but your poetic point about getting out onto the open unpaved road WILL encourage some to do just that. It will open the door, if only slightly, to a curious collection of street riders wondering about that whole dirt-thing. Thanks! By the way, I love that photo. Was I demonstrating riding, or…? christian dutcher Americade | Rolling Thru America | DirtDaze Adventure Bike Rally
Fall Fiesta 2016 in the Books I just have to say that Backroads knows how to throw a party. I saw old friends, met some new friends, and covered enough mile to satisfy even the most jaded rider. I am proud to call Brian and Shira my friends. Byrd Brian and Shira — Thank you so much for inviting Dan and me to dinner at the Eagle Saturday with the Fall Fiesta group. We had a wonderful time, and were reminded once again what terrific easy going hosts you two are!! I know that everyone appreciates the comfortable tone you set and the fun that results from good people relaxed and enjoying the congeniality of the moment. We certainly do. judy kennedy – Whitehorse gear Shira and Brian, Wanted to say thank you for this past weekend, we had a great time. It’s a lot of work putting these events together and it’s noticed and appreciated. We are looking forward to the Spring rally next year to West Virginia. Only the best, jack and jean Kids, I had a great time. The Kitzhof, a pleasant change from the usual Gray Ghost (for me) and proprietors Simon and Allison were very good hosts. The dinner and lodging at Eagle Mountain House were top shelf and the
NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS Saratoga Downtowner perfectly located for strolling access to many good food options and shops. The old friends and new faces plus my first 1200 mile pain free ride in more years than I care to recall were the perfect medicine after turning cyborg over the prior 9 months. Oh, and no moose encounter off the Kankamangas this time around. Job well done Backroads! chuck p. Brian and Shira, You’ve done it again. Rory and I thank you for organizing another wonderful Fall Fiesta. The routes you compiled were simply awesome. We don’t have Backroads like that in Ontario. We continue to meet new people and make more new friendships each time we come out with you guys. And lastly, thank you for including us in your dinner at Hattie’s. Meant a lot to us (plus the best crab cakes evah!). Hoping our schedule will allow us to get in a Spring rally next year. Will keep an eye out for full details. All the best, Lorie and rory ring Hi Brian and Shira, It was great to see you both, along with some old friends and new ones this past weekend. Yet again, another stellar gathering, with great company and fantastic twisties, sweepers, and panoramic vistas. Keene also had a great time, and we’ll be talking about this trip for awhile. I’m glad that no one was seriously hurt in the couple of spills, and it really makes it hit home that it’s the great people that make these trips so special. I’m looking forward to next year’s trip to WV already! Bring on 2017!!! Lisa Veliath Brian and Shira Thank you for another amazing trip. I always have such fun and enjoy getting together with each and everyone of you. The roads were spectacular and the weather was beautiful. Can’t wait for spring. Lisa and steve
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016
IN DU STRY INFOBITES VOTE LIKE A MOTORCYCLIST! AMA SITE HELPS YOU DECIDE Important issues hinge on this election: On Nov. 8, voters will determine who will reside in the White House for the next four years, who will occupy 435 seats in the U.S. House of Representatives, who will win 34 spots in the U.S. Senate and who will occupy the governor’s mansion in 12 states. Some of the issues these politicians are likely to address in office include increasing amounts of ethanol in our fuel supply, motorized access to public land, distracted driving, lane splitting, federal exhaust regulations for competition-only bikes, vehicle-to-vehicle communication technology and many others. The AMA is providing this Vote Like A Motorcyclist section on its website to help riders better understand the issues and where the various candidates stand on them. You also can learn how incumbent candidates have voted on issues important to motorcyclists and whether they have cosponsored bills favorable or unfavorable to motorcycling interests. The AMA encourages every motorcyclist and all-terrain-vehicle rider to become informed about the issues and the candidates and carry that knowledge into the voting booth on Nov. 8. On this page, you’ll find a map that will link you to your state’s page, where we have listed the candidates who will appear on your ballot. Limited time and resources don’t allow the AMA to track the positions of
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News from the Inside candidates outside the two dominant parties. So, we are asking our members to contact the candidates on their ballots to ask them about motorcycling issues. Send any candidate responses to grassroots@ama-cycle.org, and we will post them on the appropriate webpage. You also can find a link on this page where you can register to vote, if you have not already done so. And we have provided convenient links to all of our press releases and alerts related to the Vote Like A Motorcyclist campaign. If you have any questions or comments about these pages or the Vote Like A Motorcyclist campaign, please contact us at grassroots@ama-cycle.org or call (202) 220-1390.
GREEK ADVENTURES ADDS RELAXING OPTION TO MOTORCYCLE VACATION PACKAGE • SAY NAMASTE TO MOTORCYCLE TOURS Greek-Adventures, a twelve-year-old company offering guided motorcycle tours through the gorgeous vistas of the Peloponnese and beyond, has added yoga to its roster of Aegean pleasures. Before visiting the Ancient Theater in Epidavro and riding through the mountains to Galatas, adventurers can now begin the day centering themselves before cutting loose and letting the balmy winds of the Mediterranean have their way. The 12-Day Zen Moto Tour is billed as the motorcycle tour for the soul searcher. Designed around daily morning meditations guided by Yogi Nadine Stroble and fresh, healthy meals, with a focus on the tranquility of the surroundings, the new addition to the Greek-Adventures tour menu aims to wed relaxation with thrill seeking. “What better way to experience the rich culture and heritage of Greece than on your own terms?” says Vasilios Rallis. Vasilios Rallis, AKA Billy, is the sole proprietor of Greek-Adventures. A lover of freedom, pleasure, his ancestral home, and motorcycles, the exuberant, lifelong rider leads the road-warrior part of the moto tour and prides him-
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS
self on providing a rich, full experience of Greece, be it the quaint countryside or a ride out to Mycenae (Tomb of Agamemnon—Relive the Trojan war) along with a visit to the Corinth Canal (Isthmus). Because the unique company offers 3 different tours—-Ten Day Peloponnese Adventure, Six Day Peloponnese Adventure, 8 Day Exploratory Tour, plus the option to customize a package—-an adventurers’ terms are vast. “Come share the wonders of Greece with your family and friends,” says Billy. “We can customize the tour that’s right for you and give you the true Greek experience.” • www.greek-adventures.com
STUDIES SHOW RISE IN FATALITIES Statistics compiled by the U. S. National Highway Traffic Safety Administration show that 35,092 people died in traffic crashes in 2015, ending a five-decade trend of declining fatalities with a 7.2% increase in deaths, reflecting 2,348 more fatalities from motor vehicle crashes than in 2014. Fatalities increased from 2014 to 2015 in almost all segments of the population—passenger vehicle occupants (+6.6%), passenger cars (+5.7%), large trucks (+11%), SUV occupants (+10.1%), van occupants (+9.3%), pickup truck occupants (+4.7%), pedestrians (+9.5%), bicyclists (+12.2%), motorcyclists (+8.3%), alcohol-impaired driving fatalities (+3.2%), male (+7.0%) / female (+7.4%), daytime (+7.2%) / nighttime (+7.1%). The estimated number of police-reported crashes increased by 3.8%, from 6.0 to 6.3 million, and there were 105,000 more people injured in motor vehicle crashes. According to NHTSA, job growth and low fuel prices were two factors that led to increased driving, including increased leisure driving and driving by young people. More driving can contribute to higher fatality rates.
HANOI PLANS TO BAN MOTOCYCLES The city of Hanoi, Vietnam, has announced a plan to completely ban motorcycles by 2025. The plan is based on an effort to reduce traffic congestion by promoting public transportation. The proposal may have been prompted by a recent decision in Paris, France to ban motorcycles made before 1999. Hanoi now has an estimated 4.9 million motorcycles and scooters on the
roads, so a total ban seems extreme and may prove a difficult matter to successfully employ. Last year, the monthly motorcycle registration figures ranged from 8,000 to 20,000. Officials estimated that within the next four years the city would have nearly 7 million two wheelers on Hanoi streets. Hanoi’s air quality has been regularly listed as Unhealthy by the Real Time Air Quality Index, and officials say the plan is to encourage bikers to use public transportation instead. Currently Hanoi has a fleet of some 1,000 buses, accounting for 27 million passenger rides each month. The new plan would create six more metro lines, three Bus Rapid Transit Lines and 18 new bridges within the next 14 years.
AMAZON VILLAGERS TORTURE MOTORBIKE THIEVES Amazonian villagers took revenge on two suspected motorcycle thieves by tying them to a tree swarming with venomous ants for three days. Bolivian authorities say the men, aged 18 and 19, nearly died of stings from fire ants in Ayopaya. They were freed when relatives paid a ransom of $3,000, nearly four times the average annual Bolivian wage. Dr. Roberto Paz of Cochabamba hospital told reporters that one of the men remained in intensive care while the other had undergone dialysis for kidney failure. A sister of one of the men, who are accused of stealing three motorbikes, said they were held for three days and would have died if relatives had not paid the ransom, demanded as compensation for the missing motorcycles. Fire ants produce venom which can be deadly but is also used in small doses as a traditional treatment for arthritis. Ouch!
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016 BOOK SPOTLIGHT MOTORCYCLING THE
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RIGHT WAY • DO THIS, NOT THAT: LESSONS FROM BEHIND THE HANDLEBAR BY KEN CONDON
If you are like us you live and breath motorcycles, and the ride does not end when you roll into the garage and turn off the bike. No, like us, you actively seek out new knowledge, old knowledge and needed knowledge when it comes to becoming a better, more skillful rider. So we were excited to hear of the release of Motorcycling the Right Way, a new book by popular, and one of our favorite, motorcycle authors - Ken Condon. Most of you have seen Ken’s writing in various motorcycle publications over the years, but for those who are not familiar with him Ken has written more than 250 skills and safety articles for Motorcycle Consumer News, including the “Proficient Motorcycling” and “Street Strategies” monthly columns and he currently writes the “Street Savvy” column for Motorcyclist Magazine. He has been our go-to-guy when we have a technical riding skills question and on various things motorcycle. In other words – he is the man. ‘Motorcycling the Right Way’ is an essential reference for riders of all experience levels. This book offers proven principles for accident-free riding. In Motorcycling the Right Way, Condon illustrates a specialized teaching method to help motorcyclists develop the physical and mental skills to ride safely, skillfully, and with confidence. “Riding the right way means using known and proven principles for effectively controlling your motorcycle and managing risk,” says Condon. “Riding a motorcycle the right way involves more than simply acquiring a
collection of information and skills. It takes a commitment to developing and nurturing the relationship between you, your bike, and the road.” Motorcycling the Right Way is a complete motorcycle riding manual with each chapter featuring riding situations and teaching lessons. Sections include: How to manage risks and prevent crashes, Mastering necessary skills in everyday situations, How to conquer shifting, braking, and cornering, Dissecting real-life situations and concluding what went wrong and what to do right, Dirt riding, group rides, highway riding, night riding, passengers and Motorcycle maintenance. We were impressed by the quality of the book and especially the plethora of illustrations, pictures and straight-forward imagery used in Motorcycling the Right Way. “Being a thinking motorcyclist means making conscious decisions about risk management – this is one of the biggest reasons why I’ve survived all these years on two wheels,” adds Condon. “This book will bring audiences a clear insight to right actions and critical choices, as well as the rewards of safety, confidence and enjoyment of the road.” Motorcycling the Right Way by Ken Condon is now available on Amazon.com for $24.95.
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS
Hannum’s Harley-Davidson Presents
G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN anchor Bar HOME OF THE REAL, ORIGINAL, ONE & ONLY BUFFALO WING 1047 MAIN ST, BUFFALO, NY 14209 716-886-8920 • WWW.ANCHORBAR.COM Some things end up synonymous with other things that are much like themselves – but not the original. Take Kleenex. You ask for a Kleenex and you can get any facial tissue. You say you went Jet-Skiing, but you might have really been on a Wave Runner. Scotch “Magic Tape” is only manufactured in one place in the world: Hutchinson, Minnesota, but ask for scotch tape and you might get something else completely. Ask for Tabasco Sauce and you will get whatever sauce the place got on the cheap. Sorry, no Coke – Pepsi? So many originals have become watered-down copies of the real McCoy. The same can be said about the original creation from the restaurant we will be featuring at this stop on the Great All American Diner Run – the Anchor Bar, in downtown Buffalo, New York. You can go anywhere on the planet these days and order Buffalo Wings, but, like in Highlander, there can be only one and to get the original Buffalo wings we had to travel to western New York and the town that lent its name to the dish and the famous Anchor Bar. Like all good things the backstory is part of the magic and the tale of the “wings that were heard around the world” had a very basic and motherly beginning. Let’s time travel back a half a century ago… (Okay, we’ll just lift the story from their website…) It was a Friday night in 1964, Dominic Bellissimo was tending bar at the now famous Anchor Bar Restaurant in Buffalo, NY. Late that evening, a group of Dominic’s friends arrived at the bar with ravenous appetites. Dominic asked his mother, Teressa, to prepare something for his friends to eat. They looked like chicken wings, a part of the chicken that usually went into the stock pot for soup. Teressa had deep fried the wings and flavored them with a secret sauce. The wings were an instant hit and it didn’t take long for people to flock to the bar to experience this new taste sensation. From that evening on, Buffalo Wings became a regular part of the menu at the Anchor Bar. The phenomenon created in 1964 by Teressa Bellissimo has spread across the globe. Although many have tried to duplicate Buffalo Wings, the closely guarded secret recipe is what makes Frank & Teressa’s the proclaimed “Best Wings in the World.” Today when you walk up to the Anchor Bar you will pass a statue of Teressa as you enter. But, before we get into the wings and all the other great foodie treats you will find on the menu let’s mention another little tiny detail we did not know about until we walked in the Anchor. This is a serious motorcycle hangout. Literally. Executive chef Ivano Toscani is a big collector of motorcycles – especially Italian and European machines - and there were more than a dozen motorcycles hanging around the Anchor, in addition to so much more memorabilia.
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tasty places to take your bike
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT
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SEE YOUR ADVENTURES THROUGH TOURATECH ADJUSTABLE MIRRORS Touratech, the world leader in adventure motorcycle accessories, introduces the exciting new Touratech Adjustable Mirror. Many motorcyclists have struggled with mirrors that are difficult to adjust, don’t hold position at speed, or break in a mishap while riding the road less travelled. This new product is a rugged, easy-to-adjust mirror that can be folded out of the way for tougher trails or during bike transport, making it a perfect solution for distance touring and adventure riding. With 180 degrees of adjustability, the mirror changes position with a positive ‘click’ at each setting, meaning it will never shake loose while riding. No tightening of screws or fasteners will be necessary with these mirrors. The large viewing area gives excellent clarity and rear-view visibility compared to other universal folding mirrors on the market. For years riders have had to replace or constantly tighten mirrors because of drops or just steady use. The Touratech Adjustable Mirror ends that, and clarifies the rider’s rear view at the same time. The Touratech Adjustable Folding Mirror is sold individually in M10 x 1.25 and M1 x 1.5 thread types allowing easy installation for most adventure motorcycles. Retail Price: $44.95 • www.touratech.com
Anchor Bar Continued It all added to the flavor of this famous bar. And, it made the wings even better when we got a plate of hot and tangy original Buffalo wings at a table underneath a Ducati Diavel. The irony was not lost on us, I tell ya. The Anchor is a very busy place, especially on a weekday around lunch when we rolled into the city, but we were still seated quickly and even though I knew what we were after, we took in the rest of the menu. Here at the Anchor you needn’t get wings as they offer pizza with any number or combination of toppings, burgers and chicken sandwiches (Buffalo–style, please!) and something else that is very regional and part of the western New York lexicon. Shira ordered it. I thought she was mumbling and said something like befnwek. “What did you order,” I asked? She said, “Beef on Weck” “Say what, again?” “Beef on Weck,” Shira replied, obviously getting fatigued by my foodie incompetence and lack of knowledge of local cuisine. The sandwich in question is a local legend, almost as popular as the Anchor’s wings… slow roasted beef, thinly sliced and piled high, splashed with horseradish and serve on a Kummelweck roll. These rolls are similar to a crusty Kaiser roll but sprinkled with caraway and coarse salt instead of sesame or poppy seed topping. Beef on Weck? Yummy! The Anchor even has some salads for those of you who would be just plain rude, silly or blind to order rabbit food in this palace of Wingdom. We ordered two plates of wings, ten to a plate of original (with hot sauce on the side) and barbeque. Everything was delicious but perhaps it was the day, the ride and the fact that we were at Ground Zero for Buffalo wing history that we preferred Teressa’s original wings. Even Notso Happy and Pepe got into the act and they don’t even really eat… they’re puppets and not really real. What is real is the great meal you will find at the Anchor Bar in Buffalo, New York. The original, the one and only, the real deal and they have motorcycles all around you while you chow down on the wings that were heard around the world!
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS
Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MY STERI OUS AM ERI CA The eTernaL fLame • a WaTerfaLL WiTh fire When I first heard there was an “Eternal Flame,” just east of Buffalo, New York, my mind went off in a slightly bizarre and totally wrong direction. I have been told my mind works in an odd fashion. The stories I heard made a big deal about this old flame. A recent trip through the western New York region would give me a chance to seek out this old flame and, being an open-minded sort of guy, especially in these days of gender-bending bathroom issues, I thought, “What the heck!” I will go check out the flame found at Chestnut Ridge Park, in the town of Orchard Park, New York. I had heard there would be a hike through the woods and it would involve steep down hill trails, with signs warning of death and worse and then a bit of a ramble along a stream to said “Eternal Flame.” The further I got into the woods the more the quiet began to envelop me. I thought there would be more pizzazz, more frivolity, more… “Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert” antics. What was I thinking? It turns out this had nothing to do with anything like I was thinking! Nope, I did not find the oldest “flame” in New York State in Chestnut Ridge Park.
He would probably be found in the Allentown Historic section of Buffalo. My bad. What I really found was an actual flame. A fire. A blaze. A conflagration. Spontaneous and bright. Natural and timeless. Behind a waterfall. That’s right – a waterfall. Down along the stream, in a mossy and green grotto, was the not so hidden Eternal Flame, shining brightly in the noontime sun; behind the slight pour of the drought-tired waterfall. Wow – how cool is this? The Eternal Flame Falls is very much a natural wonder. As Rathjen said in his lap of New York article – he could imagine the first native Seneca kid coming up to the smelly hole behind the waterfall with fire flint in hand saying the Seneca equivalent of “Hey, watch this!” They probably heard that one in Canada.
I was told that the flame does occasionally go out – but it was roaring this day and remarkable even behind the weak trickle of water. It must be very impressive when the water is really running. Here is the story and to get to the bottom of it I had to go deep – very deep – some 1,300 feet down. Below the surface of the Earth here in this part of New York State you will find the Rhinestreet Shale and if you brought this shale to the surface you will most likely find it full of fossils – plant and animal remnants from Devonian Period some 400 million years ago. These days this sort of rock and remnants of Earth’s past can create lots of natural gas. There is a reason there is so much fracking in this part of the nation. The region is packed with this stuff.
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016
In fact, when this flame goes out, as it will on occasion, it will emit about one kilogram of greenhouse gas each day. That is 2.2 pounds for those of you who were not in the illicit drug trade in the 80s. I wasn’t but I did watch a lot of Miami Vice. Scientists who study such things have found that a large number of these hydrocarbon seeps might very well be huge contributing factor to climate change – but disregarded this fact when they realized there were no middle age white guys to blame. Just kidding…maybe. What is true is that scientists from the National Institute of Geophysics and Volcanology in Italy and geologists from Indiana University Bloomington have found that the gas emitted from the macro seep at the Eternal Flame Falls had higher concentrations of ethane and propane; making it highly flammable and very rare. This is unusual by itself, but add into the mix this fact: Typically shale must be hot, around 212 °F – boiling water hot - for its carbon structures to break down and form smaller natural gas molecules. However, the shale from which Eternal Flame Falls draws its gas is much cooler, in addition to being younger and shallower than typical gas-bearing shale. This may indicate that additional, as yet undemonstrated, processes can contribute to the creation of natural gas in shale; and that this unknown factor, once puzzled out, may revolutionize modern natural gas production.
Page 17 Well frack me! The Eternal Flame Falls was once an obscure local attraction and for a time the region was abused by vandals and litter but public interest in the very cool hot flame behind the falls has brought out the best in people, including the Boy Scouts of America who cleared and created the trail to the falls and flame in just three days in 2011. The Boy Scouts rock! Today it is a hardy hike along the trail with flame markers showing the way. While the Eternal Flame Falls are located in Chestnut Ridge
Park in Orchard Park, NY, the powers that be would like hikers to use the Corral Parking area off Route 277. That parking area is just north of the the intersection of Seufert Road and Route 277. The Eternal Flame Falls is a different and very interesting part of Mysterious America and one that some day might pave the way to cheaper, greener and more plentiful energy. o’life out!
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS
Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents
WE’RE OUTTA HER E
a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads
roycrofT inn 40 S GROVE ST, EAST AURORA, NY 14052 • 716-652-5552 • WWW.ROYCROFTINN.COM As is our way here at Backroads we like to bring to you great escapes in different and varied places around the northeast and elsewhere. On occasion we come across a place that not only has great rooms, a superior restaurant, an interesting locale, but a bit of history too. This is the case this month with the beautiful Roycroft Inn, located in the western New York village of East Aurora. The inn itself is set off the main road Route 20A that runs east and west through a good part of the state and it is in the little details of its creation that the true beauty of the Roycoroft Inn and the surrounding campus come into view. But to get a better idea of why this place is far more special than some of the other inns, lodgings and hotels of the Empire State we have to go back to the late 19th century. It was the year 1897 and Elbert Hubbard is a man of vision, character and creativity. It was at this time that he helped found and begin the American Arts and Crafts Movement. To go a bit deeper into this movement you must look at its start which began in Britain when local artisans realized that factory made and mass created products, although quick and economical, lacked human touch and the nuances of perfection and craftsmanship. The idea swept in the United States and Herbert was one to take up the cause. In 1905 the Roycroft Inn was opened to accommodate visitors and artisans looking to experience this emerging community and style. The Inn became a center of activity for this community. In 1986, The Roycroft Inn, as part of the Roycroft Campus, received National Historic Landmark status. Over a nine year period, with support from the Margaret L. Wendt Foundation, the Inn meticulously underwent an 8 million dollar restoration to return it to its original splendor. It was re-opened for guests in 1995. Today the campus still holds classes, demonstrations and tours and the Roycroft Copper Shop is one of the best on the planet. As we rode up to the Inn we knew this was very special. The woodwork is phenomenal and inside the Inn, you are immersed in the beauty and unique style of the Roycroft artisans. As you
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Guided Back-Country Snowmobile Tours in the Green Mountain National Forest.
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016
step through the grand doors “time still seems to stand still”, at least for a minute. In the Salon you are surrounded by the beautifully restored murals created by Alexis Jean Fournier, an original Roycroft artist. Sit in an original Roycroft Morris chair, read a book by a handcrafted lamp or just wander through the series of exquisitely restored rooms and breathe in the history of this historic inn in which you will find inspirational framed posters of art and stories. The rooms were all nicely appointed, although the nicely crafted sliding window alongside the commode that opened to the seating area seemed a bit peculiar. Well done, for sure, but …odd. After riding around the region taking in the sights – Niagara Falls, the Eternal Flame Falls and the cute town of East Aurora itself; you must go to Vidlers 5 & 10¢, the antithesis of the Roycroft Movement - mass produced stuff made for cheap consumption but wild and overwhelming just the same.
Page 19 Still throughout the town you will find the font that represents the Roycroft Movement just about everywhere you go; as well as motivational quotes and sayings found everywhere through the town. Here in East Aurora things are done best that are done well. The restaurant and Craftsman Lounge are as well appointed, as you would think, and the menu is well worth a couple of meals if you are in the region for a bit. Chef Andrew Nuernberger is a true master and a craftsman in his own right. It seems that everywhere you really looked you would find either inspiration or something to perhaps just make you think. Atop the menu we saw this. “CONSIDER THE APPLE. Plucked and eaten in solitude - just an apple. Baked in a crust and cooled on a windowsill - the essence of a nation. Offered as a gift with a sultry smile –the downfall of man.” The True inspiration for cooking comes from seeing and holding in your hands perfect ingredients - ingredients that fill you with the pleasure of being alive.” The menu was full and fulfilling with plates such as Kurobuta rack of pork, Atlantic Day Boat sea scallops, or Fresh Atlantic lobster risotto. Because we could not resist we ordered a plate of the Roycroft’s homemade truffle chips with Gorgonzola cheese and white truffle oil and sea salt. Let us be professional here when we say – Oh my frackin god! We had four one night for dinner and everybody ordered something different, taking in specials, off the menu and trying to save room for dessert. The dessert was a homemade cookie dough ice cream sandwich. This was a handed down recipe for the pastry chef from her Grandmother. We were told there was no measuring of ingredients, but that the cookies were simply made, craftsman-like. A great meal finished with these ice cream sandwiches that were just too big and full to be real. We like it when we can show and bring you to someplace different and we hope that the Roycroft Inn and all that it has to offer historically and inspirationally will be a true grand destination for you. Places as special as this sometimes seem to be a thing of the distant past. Enjoy and be inspired.
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS
Hanover Powersports Presents
B IG CITY GETAWAY
daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind
The sTrong naTionaL museum of pLay ONE MANHATTAN SQUARE, ROCHESTER, NY 14607 WWW.MUSEUMOFPLAY.ORG • 585-263-2700 MON-THURS 10A-5P • FRI-SAT 10A-8P • SUN NOON-5P • $13.50 ADMISSION Necessity may be the mother of invention, but play is certainly the father. Roger von Oech • Contemporary American creativity guru When you were a kid, how great would it have been to have a huge building, full of every single plaything you could possibly think of, at your disposal, for your enjoyment and education? The Strong National Museum of Play is just that. It collects and cares for hundreds of thousands of objects including toys, dolls, board games, video games, other electronic games and other objects that illuminate the meaning and importance of play.
Margaret Woodbury Strong was an only child to very wealthy parents. She grew up in a solitary world, although was extremely well traveled from a young age. Her parents would give her money to purchase whatever she wanted on these trips and, in order to get the most bang for her buck, she would buy many small items, such as miniatures. This began Margaret’s days of collecting. The most serious phase in Margaret’s collecting did not start until after the deaths of her daughter and husband. Between the years of 1960 and 1969, her collection of dolls expanded from 600 to 27,000. In addition to this collection, she had figurines, animals, dollhouses and anything else that tickled her fancy. In her roaming of auctions, she might see something of interest and start an entirely new collection based on that one item. Margaret had wanted to set up a museum for her many collections, perhaps in the Strong Mansion where she lived. She invited people to tour the nu-
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merous collections and, seeing the joy and wonder in their eyes, she worked with lawyers and realtors to create what she called a ‘Museum of Fascination.’ After her death in 1969, it became obvious that the enormity of her collections could not be properly housed in her home and plans were made to build the Margaret Woodbury Strong Museum, which opened in 1982. During the decades that followed, the museum grew dramatically, expanding its collections, facilities and resources to its now 285,000 square feet. Now simply known as The Strong National Museum of Play, it houses the International Center for the History of Electronic Games, the National Toy Hall of Fame, the World Video Game Hall of Fame, the Brian Sutton-Smith Library and Archives of Play, the Woodbury School and the American Journal of Play. From one girl’s love of small things to the generosity she developed, so many others can now enjoy a day spent with all the playthings they so fondly remember. We recently made our way to Rochester, NY to do just that, and enjoy we certainly did. Entering The Strong, you will find the Elaine Wilson Carousel. Manufactured in 1918 by the Allan Herschell Company in nearby North Tonawanda, NY, it has been lovingly restored to its original beauty. Being a bit pecksh, I started our tour in the Bill Gray Restaurant with a local Red Hot and a root beer float; sustenance for the next several hours of exploration. The Strong is amazingly hands-on. Entering the Field of Play room, our inner child was not so inner anymore. Building blocks, balancing games and Mousetrap-like contraptions challenged us to take part. Toys and games that were so much a part of our childhood were displayed in chronological order. From the earliest – chess, checkers and playing cards – through the most recent electronic games, and pretty much everything in between, we were constantly saying, ‘Hey, I had that.’ We wandered through Sesame Street, sitting on the stoop and looking up at Big Bird. Of course, Happy and Pepe were in their glory, having so many other members of the puppet world surrounding them. Throughout the museum you will find rows and rows of bookshelves, lined with reading material for all ages. The Strong encourages you to pick up any book, sit and read for a while, or check it out from their library. I know that Brian found quite a few that he would have taken if we lived closer. For many
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kids, reading began with comic books and the American Comic Book Heroes collection brings that experience back. With giant Superman, Iron Man and Spider-Man statues looming above, the golden age of comic books via radio and television broadcasts, video games and early comic book art is well presented. We did our best to balance on the Green Goblin’s flying sled, climb the towers like Spider-Man and feel the strength of the Hulk. During our time there, they had two special exhibits – The Force at Play, which displayed the revolutionary impact of the Star Wars franchise with Lego, Mr. Potato
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Head, toothpick art, arcade games and so much more. Perhaps my favorite was the Family Guy’s Star Wars episode. The other was Rockets, Robots and Ray Guns highlighting the universes of science-fiction classics. We watched scenes from Time Machine on a screen enclosed in the Star Gate and reveled in all the Star Trek memorabilia they had. There is a huge collection of pinball machines, from the earliest sans flippers to the most complex, where we plunked down several tokens and played a bit. In the dolls and stuffed animal section, there was a diagnostic for your pet. While Happy and Pepe are certainly free souls, we thought we’d have them checked out (they can’t afford health care anymore) and the machine stated, ‘You should give your animal a bath.’ Highly insulted, Happy, now NotSo, and Pepe left the room. Heading to the Toy Hall of Fame, Happy was brought back to just that when he saw that the puppet had been inducted in 2015. After meandering through all the rooms, we decided to take a little break with the Dancing Wings Butterfly Garden, filled with brilliantly colored, free-flying tropical and native butterflies in a beautifully landscaped rain-forest environment. We were given a chart of what we might see, and we did a pretty good job of finding many of them, including the Button Quail and Owl Butterfly. We were amazed at the fluttering that surrounded us and the natural beauty of the butterfly’s patterns. It was a great way to end a fun-filled afternoon. With the hundreds of thousands of items on display, I would be hard-pressed to highlight any one thing. Suffice it to say that you will come out of The Strong with a lighter step and a smile on your face. Be prepared to spend several hours exploring, and make sure to bring a sense of wonder to fully enjoy this great blend of history and children’s museum. ~ shira Kamil
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016
PRODUCT REVIEW
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CONTINENTAL TKC 70 TIRES • STREET TIRES FOR THE ADVENTUROUS AT HEART
Although I cannot speak for the entire ADV riding population I do know that many of these uber-touring machine rarely see dirt, off-road and the far side of the world. But, there are exceptions and for many riders of these machines you might wish to look for a tire that will do a good job on both. Continental has been offering their TKC 70 tires for a few years now and we recently put 5K miles on a set, in conditions varying from pristine new twisty black top to hard packed forest roads and deep New Jersey backroads where someone being creative dumped a few miles of deep quarry process and never decided to grade it. What Conti was looking to do with the TKC 70 tires was to find a happy medium between their streetish TrailAttack 2 and more off-roadable TKC 80 offering. After a good part of the summer scooting around on the TK 70s I think Continental Tires has done just that. The TKC 70s are produced in Germany and have a clunky and chunky look to their pattern. Although, even with the aggressive appearance, they were fairly quiet on hard pavement and there is that wide solid center band of rubber looking to capitalize on some high mileage longevity. The tires utilize the same stability-enhancing zero-degree steel belt as their street cousin TrailAttack – a tire that comes standard on many larger ADV machines – and for good reason as we have found them to be an excellent street tire that can more than handle themselves on light dirt road use. The TKC 70 look to go even deeper off the pavement.
The big problem with some tires, like Conti’s TKC 80 is that they are a bit too off-road minded and wear out in a short few thousand miles and although I love the TrailAttack 2 rubber, I have often found myself wishing for something more aggressive on the few times we end up on less than pristine roads or have just totally screwed up and ridden ourselves into trouble. With the TKC 70 I had a tires that seemed up to all that it was asked for – and was especially impressive in the wet as well. My initial thought was to use these tires for some of the more aggressive touring we’d do this summer and pull them off when done, but as time has gone but I have grown more and more confident in the TK 70s. In truth if I were going to be on-road only and doing any track time at all I would look to Continental’s Trail Attack 2 tires and if you were planning on a solid tour on adverse pavement and roadways like the Dalton Highway or some such place on the map, you might look to their TKC 80s. But if you are an ADV rider who does some light off-road more often than not, or live in a region with lots of gravel and clay roads like Vermont, then the TKC 70 tire could very well be that perfect “Goldilocks” tire for you. The Continental TKC 70 is available in all of the popular adventure bike sizes. Fronts range in price from $105 to $175; rears cost from $195 to $240. See their website at www.continental-tires.com for more information. ~ Brian Rathjen
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS
I don’t have any reasons, I left them all behind I’m in a New york state of mind - Oh yeah - Billy Joel Hudson Valley to the Catskills The Ramapo 500 – New York’s Home Grown Road Tour Although we call the Garden State of New Jersey home, and the fact that Shira is a real Jersey girl, I myself am a native New Yawker. Queens-raised, bleed blue & orange Mets fan. With that in mind we realized that a couple of Empire state-based events would be happening within a few days of each other. The venerable Ramapo 500 – one of the United States finest road tours (which would overnight in Greene County) and then on the far side of the state, the BMW Owners Association’s International Rally in Hamburg, just south of Buffalo and Niagara Falls…oh yeah, and Canada. Knowing we had two great happenings back to back, we stirred up a plan to do them both and get in a serious bit of exploration through the backroads of New York. For this trip Shira would take her trusty F800GS and I would be using our long-term test machine – a BMW R1200RT - comfortable, capable and sexy. The days leading up to the opening weekend saw heavy summer heat and humidity blanket the region. Mid 90s with the same percentage of moisture in the air made any activity a soaking chore. Still our plan was to ride over the Hudson River to have dinner with friends and overnight in the town. This would give us an easy start to the day and avoid having to shuttle over to Congers (the start off point) early Saturday. Riding over we artfully (luckily) dodged most of the heavy dark clouds that could take no more water and were dumping them along with fierce winds blown through. Dinner and friends are always a good
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BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016 thing and early Saturday of the 40th running of the Ramapo 500 found the temperatures had dropped some 30 degrees, although lots of moisture still hung in the air. We hooked up with our friends Ken and Karen and spent the day following along the route that Ramapo had stitched together. The days riding brought us a heavy mix of rain, sun, mist and low clouds that shrouded some of the Catskill peaks like a heavy opaque fog. Late that afternoon found us in East Durham, New York – what they once called the Irish Alps (think Jewish Alps but with more dancing, laughing and drinking). We had a room just a mile or so from the Blackthorne Resort and, after dropping off our gear, we shuttled two-up over to the resort, where one side of the large field had been turned into a small tent city, as the Ramapo 500 has long been a camping event. But, thankfully, not for us these days. Dinner was decent and the awards were always interesting as it is great to see the oldest and youngest 500 riders get a nod and a plaque. Right on schedule some boomers came in and the rain that was merely pesky that day went full tilt for a good part of the evening.
East Durham to Isle la Motte (Hey, dat ain’t New Yawk!) Animal encounters, misty mountain hops, fighter jets and ferries We had hoped for a sunnier start to the next day, but we wanted a sweep of the Nationals too that weekend. We would only be doing half of the Ramapo 500, as we had long term plans for this week and they entailed heading further north before winging west through the rest of New York state and the BMW Rally. Following in the Ramapo 500 tradition (usurped years ago by Backroads) we had a route planned along a number of roads that looked promising and unfamiliar. Soon the Catskills would, still shrouded in a heavy mist, begin to give away to the lower lands of the Leatherstocking region of the state. Over the years we have run across some fairly fierce and scary animals in our travels. Wildlife isn’t just the local biker bars at Daytona. There are crit-
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ters out there that can cause major problems. We have run across bull elephants, rhino and even a large motorcycle-curious baboon in Africa; Crocodiles in Central America and more than our share of bear, moose and other furry things here at home. But nothing as alarming as what I almost hit this day. We had just come around one bend and the rain had returned with a vengeance. Up ahead I spotted something writhing on the road to the right of center and more or less in my lane. At first I thought it a bird that might have been hit by the car that had just passed us heading the other way. I slowed to see what it was and then I did. Actually I smelled it first! “Holy Frack,” I said out loud… as my tires veered hard to the right. Right about then I could see the creature’s little sphincter aimed right at me as a baby skunk’s tail was raised and he was firing. Shira followed my lead and we both cut to the far side of the roadway giving Pepe a wide berth. I rode for about ten miles with “stinkin’ thinkin’ as I swore that little beastie got me. We crossed the Mohawk River and Lock #9 of the Erie Canal at Rotterdam. One of the first run-ins we would have with the great canal this week. Like the previous day we had on again-off again rains to deal with as we
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS
rode into the familiar roads of Lake George and the Adirtondacks. Bolton’s Landing was a little less frenetic this day and made a great lunch spot. By luck I parked the RT right next to an historic stone, marking 72 miles to Albany. These Mile Markers were placed back in 1802 from the state capital to the Canadian border and very few remain today, much less in the very place they were first erected. We love history when it lands in our laps. From Lake George we ran up past Ticonderoga. The last time we were there it was all about military heroes from the future (our Star Trek Mystery Run); this time it was about actual military influences from the region’s past, as the large bronze statue that you see front and center at the traffic circle at the beginning of the sculpture is composed of four life-size figures – a Native American, a Frenchman, a Scottish soldier, and an American. They sym-
bolize the four groups whose military exploits are part of Ticonderoga’s past. The top part symbolizes Liberty. We have passed it so many times, but sometimes you can learn so much more if you just slow down, stop and look. Our run up Lake Champlain moved inland a bit and we followed the Ausable River to the famed chasm. Some two miles long and nearly 500 feet deep the chasm is long sandstone gorge where the river makes its way from the Adirondack mountains into the great Champlain Lake. With the steady rains of the past few days the water of Ausable was running harder and swifter than we had ever seen it. It was very impressive and the mists from the torrent below rose up to mix with the mist coming down from the skies. From there we rode north along the lake towards Plattsburg where I glanced to my right and saw an F-111 strategic bomber along the road – next to it a B-47 strato-jet bomber. It was from here that the U.S. Air Force kept the Soviets in check, flying these bad boys from the mid-50s till the mid60s. There was no way to pass up this photo opportunity, but I had just as much fun shooting the pigeon who had taken up guard duty on one of the B-47 jet engines. Well not quite a dove, but a very neat shot just the same. I know we’re in the middle of an Empire State story right here… But, I know a place.
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BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016 And, that place, this night would be the fantastical hideaway called Ruthcliffe Lodge. Located just a short ferry ride and some miles from the New York shores of Lake Champlain, it would more than work this night and needed its own “We’re Outta Here!” for sure (see October 2016 issue). So, that’s where we headed and by early evening we were rolling across the small bridge to Isle La Motte in the middle of Lake Champlain and along the tiniest little roads to this hidden jewel on the lake. You’ll have to look for this one on the map, as the island is just 7 by 2 miles in size. We rolled in just in time to grab a drink and sit on the patio and soak in the last rays of the sun that finally decided to show up for good.
Isle LaMotte to Alexandria Bay Ancient fossils, old forest roads, waterfalls, and the loons For the first time in days the morning hours found clear skies overhead and I was up with the sunrise as it came over the Green Mountains of Vermont throwing the day’s first light on Isle La Motte. The night before we had a scrumptious dinner prepared by chef and owner Mark Infante who, together with his wife Cathy, son and crew run the Ruthcliffe Lodge.
As good as the dinner was the previous night it would have a hard time beating simply sitting on the deck watching the sun come up over Champlain with a fresh cup of coffee that morning. Ever get that “all is good feeling.” Some call it Margaritaville, other the Goldilocks Moment; when everything is just right. This morning it was the Ruthcliffe Minute. We stayed for a real breakfast and some chat with the owners and another guests before packing up the two BMWs for the day’s journey west. Before we left our new favorite little island we had a couple of things we had to see - one being the old granite quarry that was such an important site at the turn of the previous century and something older… much, much older. The Fossil Preserves on Isle La Motte, called the Chazy Reef, are the oldest known fossil reefs on the planet. Once this part of New England and most of North America’s coast was under a giant sea. Here billions of small creatures lived and thrived in the warm shallow waters. Back then the Allegheny Mountains that make up the Adirondacks, Catskills and Blue Ridge were amongst the highest peaks on the planet. The sea was then located right along the equator, before continental
Page 27 drift and a couple of billion years put things the way they are today. Over hundreds of millions of years, tectonic plate motion at a rate of less than an inch a year resulted in the movement of the landmass, now called North America, from the equator to its present location. Hence we now find fossil reefs in the unlikely locations of northern Vermont and New York. Years back scientists and geologists discovered miles of ancient reef, created not out of coral, but of dying sea creatures from long ago. Along this ancient continental shelf, strange animals with hard exoskeletons had begun to build the first great reef community in the history of life on earth. Thousands of fossils are to be found. Remarkably this is all now here on Isle a Motte – just a few minutes from the Ruthcliffe, and it is open to the public and free. No buses, no guards, not admission or U.S. Park Service. Nope – here in Vermont they expect and get that most people will see exactly what is here and how unique and special it is. Does the U.S. government know about this new found maturity and the fact that there is something that
Page 28 is as cool as this that is not under lock and key and 24/7 surveillance? I hope not. Shira and I parked the bikes and walked some of the trails, many of which have large placards describing the past and what was to be seen in easy to read humanese.
NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS The fossils were not all that hard to find, and we were tenacious. It helped that others had circle many fossils with small stones making them easier to spot, amongst the grey sedimentary stone. A truly fantastic surprise that day and a part of Mysterious America for sure! A short ride away we searched out the old Fisk Granite Quarry. The Fisk Farmhouse was also very impressive and a bit curious as the Historic Sign along the road in front of the farm claimed that then vice-president Teddy Roosevelt learned of the assassination attempt on President McKinley’s while staying at the Fisk home. This goes contrary to what I recently stated in our August issue that Roosevelt was at a camp deep in the Adirondacks when he heard his boss had been shot. We’ll have O’Life get to the bottom of this little mystery – and that’s why he makes the big bucks. We crossed back into New York (remember this was a story about riding around New Yawk, right? Jeez!) at Rouses Point with the ominous Fort Montgomery, just to the north. Built back in 1884 on the same site as the original fortifications from the end of the War of 1812, this fort has always been a bit of an issue for its location, demeanor and construction and is sometimes referred to as Fort Blunder. This, too, is another one for O’Life. We fueled up as we headed into the large park that takes up 1/3 of the state, as I know from experience that fuel can quickly become an issue in the big park. We chose a few roads heading west, mostly for their twistiness and, hopefully, pavement. It was us riding here and “Dusty” has become Shira’s middle name. The sound of the wind and the feel of the bikes are all well and good, but in a place like this – in the heart of the Adirondacks along the roads we had been riding - it is sometime best to just stop. Turn off the bike and take off the helmet. You smell that? Pine, woods, forest and water. Delicious. You here that? The earthy sound of the loons echoed across the long pond that ran into the forests and mountains. Beautiful. The rest was clean and silent. It was pleasant and peaceful till the dinner bell gonged for the mosquitoes, gnats and black flies and then it was time to keep moving. Earlier in the day we had passed the manmade falls at Union Falls Lake, but passing through the town of St. Regis we spied a sign for natural falls themselves, located in a small RV park.
The lady at the entrance said we were certainly welcome and seeing some impressive falls from the road is always nice. Getting up close to such torrents are deeply moving and impressive. By this time we were meandering out of the park and the land began to take on the farmy northern New York feel. In the college town of Potsdam we found a bite to eat and some unusual sculptures. Interesting things can always be found along the backroads of the USA – like
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016
Page 29 We wanted to scope it out for a possible Backroads rally. That being the case we rolled into the Bonnie Castle Resort, with its stunning views of Boldt Castle and also home that weekend to the New York State HOG Rally. Both BMW and Harley Rallies in one week? As Robert Palmer sang it was the best of both worlds. We did a lap around the pool and then a lap around the town, finding dinner on the water and ice cream on the mean streets of Alex Bay.
Free Day in the 1000 Islands Castles, boats and sunsets
the lot full of flower festooned toilets on poles. Seems one Hank Robar simply wanted to put up a donut shop and the village, in its infinite wisdom, denied his permit. In protest, there are not one, not two, but three separate installations of toilets with poles behind them. We then began to ride up and along the St. Lawrence heading to our two-night stay in Alexandria Bay. Our stay here would be perfect in a couple of ways. Alexandria Bay and the region has long been known for its beauty and as a getaway for “the fabulously wealthy” according to a 1969 historic sign.
Our stay in this are had a purpose. In addition to being a wonderful part of the Empire State we were considering Alexandria Bay and the Bonnie Castle Resort for an upcoming Backroads Rally and two nights up here would give us a chance to explore the region a bit deeper. Breakfast was had at a small local place called Coffee Pot Cathy’s. Good Joe as you would think and a decent breakfast offering as well. While there we got to talking to two riders, Mike and Adeline, up for the New York State HOG Rally. It didn’t take long to put the lines together and realize that this woman was the same Adeline we talk with each month from Nassau HarleyDavidson. It was like old home week for riders and friends whom had never met in person before and added some more familiar flair to the HOG event. We had heard of a museum in the town about dozen miles to the west of Alex Bay that featured a few great older wooden boats. This was a sincere understatement, as the Antique Boat Museum on the St. Lawrence River in Clayton displays the largest collection of antique and classic boats in North America! We planned an hour and stayed for much more that that. Really a
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS magnificent place and well worth the stop. So is the town of Clayton. Less frenetic and more laid back than Alexandria Bay, it was the perfect place to grab some local ice cream, fudge and coffee, find some large and comfy Adirondack chairs and watch the boats, freighters and world go floating by on the St. Lawrence Seaway. Although the Thousand Islands are a natural wonder and a big draw to entice rides up along the border with Canada it is hard to deny that the fabulous homes to be found on these island are equally as impressive and none more so than Boldt Castle. At the turn-of-the-last century, George C. Boldt, millionaire proprietor of the world famous Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York City, set out to build a full size Rhineland castle in Alexandria Bay, on picturesque Heart Island. The grandiose structure was to be a display of his love for his wife, Louise. Beginning in 1900, the Boldt family spent summers in the 1000 Islands at the Boldt family’s Wellesley House near Mr. Boldt’s Wellesley Island Farms while 300 workers including stonemasons, carpenters, and artists fashioned the six story, 120 room castle, complete with tunnels, a powerhouse, Italian gardens, a drawbridge, alster tower (children’s playhouse) and a dove cote. Not a single detail or expense was spared. In January 1904, tragedy struck. Boldt telegraphed the island and commanded the workers to immediately “stop all construction.” Louise had died suddenly of tuberculosis. A broken hearted Boldt could not imagine his dream castle without his beloved. Boldt never returned to the island, leaving behind the structure as a monument of his love. It sat empty for decades until it was purchased for $1 with the caveat that it be rebuilt and finished and open to the public. We took the Two Country Boat Tour from Uncle Sam’s Boat Tours and got to see many of the beautiful homes and sailed across into Canadian waters.
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016
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Our homes and islands are prettier. The highlight was stopping at Boldt Castle where Shira and I spent another hour exploring the many refinished, and some unrestored rooms, of this great American landmark. Meanwhile back at the Bonnie Castle, the Harley-Davidson Demo Truck had arrived and machines were beginning to arrive to the New York HOG Rally. The Bonnie Castle seemed perfect for this sort of gathering and we made note of that. Cocktails on the deck with the sun setting behind Boldt Castle seemed appropriate that night.
Alexandria Bay to Rochester The Seaway Route, the War of 1812 and national play time Today’s route would hug the rest of the Seaway and then along Lake Ontario on the Great Lakes Seaway Trail. For the last few months we have told a lot about the Revolutionary War and the various sites that can be found in and around the Hudson Valley and New Jersey. Up here along the Great Lakes there is another war with Great Britain - the War of 1812.
It seemed that every little town, port or bay has a battle, skirmish or tale to tell about this war and we made it a point to stop by Sodus Point, taking in the historic lighthouse and then along the cliffs, at Chimney Bluff, that standout so dramatically along Ontario’s shores. We made good time into Rochester, arriving in the early afternoon. We’d usually cover twice the ground, but today we had plans to visit one of the coolest, most funnest museums in the USA – The Strong National Museum of Play. What started out as the personal collection of Margaret Woodbury Strong, has grown and evolved into one of the largest museums of toys, games, and memorabilia of its kind in the world. Truly fun for kids of all ages! Home to the National Toy Hall of Fame and the Dancing Wings Butterfly Garden we would spend the rest of the afternoon at the Strong discovering and rediscovering bit and pieces of our childhood.
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS Hot Wheels, comic books, pinball arcades, every single toy or game you could think of. NotSo and Pepe even got to hang out with Big Bird. When traveling in this part of New York you really should consider spending an afternoon at The Strong National Museum of Play.
Rochester to Hamburg • Jell-O, Wings and another rally We made time out of the city of Rochester in the early morning and cut over the Erie Canal once again and through the New York countryside along roads that were pleasant but not the most inspiring. It is the nature of the terrain in these parts. Still I knew our route would take us through the town of LeRoy – home to the delicious creation Jell-O. In fact in the center of the town you will find the Jell-O Gallery that celebrates everything giggly, sweet and delightful. There was no way we’d pass up a museum such as this so we rode into LeRoy, parked the bikes and spent some time with Ruth Harvie, who told us “the rest of the story” and what a tale it was; this diminutive woman who really knew her stuff when it came to Jell-O and its creation, marketing and world-wide acclaim.
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BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016 Heading into Buffalo it was time for lunch and there was really only one choice - the Anchor Bar – the very place where the wings the city made famous were first created. It was1964 and Dominic Bellissimo was tending bar at the now-famous Anchor Bar Restaurant in Buffalo, NY. Late that evening, a group of Dominic’s friends arrived at the bar with ravenous appetites. Dominic asked his mother, Teressa, to prepare something for his friends to eat. The rest is history. This is the place. If you like Buffalo Wings and you are anywhere near the city then you must come to the Anchor Bar and order a serving of ten original wings. It is well worth it as the wings were classic and the dozen or so motorcycles hanging around the bar, along with the other great memorabilia make for quite the setting. Fully Buffaloed and ready to go we rode through downtown Buffalo that really blew us away – especially the City Hall that was truly a magnificent building. The winds off the great Lake were running hard and doing their best to snafu us but just south of Buffalo in the town of Hamburg we found the large fair grounds – home to the 2016 BMW MOA International Rally.
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We rolled in, picked up our wristbands and began to explore the yearly gathering of German motorcycle enthusiasts. As always the rally would be greatly attended, with the number possibly pushing 6,100 rally goers. Not too shabby, ehh? Our thoughts on the rally were to have a great ride to and from, check out the ample vendors area and take in a few of the seminars. Our digs for the next three nights would be the historic Roycroft Campus, in nearby East Aurora. The Roycroft Campus is a true American treasure and most complete complex of buildings remaining of the “guilds” that evolved in the United States at the turn of the 19th to 20th century. Designated a National Historic Landmark in 1986, the Campus contains 14 structures including the Chapel, the Print Shop, the Furniture Shop, the Power House and the Copper Shop. It also has the Roycroft Inn which would add a bit of artistic and talented flair as this movement was known for its love of a great job done and personal pride in one’s workmanship – in whatever trade or pursuit they took on. The inn was everything we thought and makes a great stand-alone story for We’re outta here - see page 18.
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS
Free Day in Hamburg • 5¢ & 10¢, eternal flames and the MOA Rally We spent a couple of days at the fairgrounds that held the MOA Rally. Saw lots of friends, had a few lunches and dinners and did our best to find the offbeat and obscure in the region, including Vidlers An original 5¢ & 10¢ – with the Vidler on the Roof. It was hard to walk through here without buying at least a few things. Small sewing kit, a few other sundries and a dozen coffee candies that we will have to buy in bulk. Also in our Mysterious America bucket list was the world’s oldest eternal flame. In a local park, after a hardy hike down the trail, you will find a stream and, along its way, a waterfall. Behind the veil of water (well, not so much this day) there is a rocky outcropping that has a natural gas seepage that has been a lit flame for hundreds of years. Back at the MOA Rally we sat in on a number of seminars, watched with jaws dropped as the GS Giants ran the course and took in some of the entertainment the Rally Committee had brought in – we especially loved the Carnival Kids Steel Drum Orchestra – very Margaritaville for an usually snowy town like Buffalo. Closing ceremonies were done and awards and prizes given out (nope didn’t win a thing; keeping the streak alive!) and by Sunday morning we were rallied out and ready to continue our New York Tour, this time heading east through the state and towards the Finger Lakes region.
Shufflin’ off from Buffalo • Sea Serpents, Gorges and the ride home Route 20A meandered boringly straight east, as do many roads out in this part of the state, but it is a pretty region all the same, made more so by the magnificent Letchworth State Park – truly one of the more stunning parks in New York. But before we’d head into Letchworth I had one little side trip to make. What, you thought you’d get through a trip this size without a “monster” story? There is always a “monster” story. We love it when there is not just a legend, but an entire community that gets behind it and such is the case here in Wyoming County, New York and the town of Perry in particular. Perry is the home to the Silver Lake Sea Serpent and they proudly tell you that as you ride into the town. We’d would love to tell you about the stories that started back in the summer of 1855, and that by the 1880s the monster was one of the biggest draws in the region, bringing thousands each summer to Silver Lake to perhaps get a glimpse of the ‘welldocumented” creature. Several expeditions were launched, ranging from whalers with harpoons to a vigilance society of men armed with guns to a company having a capital stock of one thousand dollars and bent on capturing the creature. But, alas… the hoax, one of the greatest ever in American history, was uncovered when a fire occurred at the Walker Hotel years later and a large 60 foot long puppet was discovered in the attic by the firefighters.
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016 It seems that the owner of the hotel, Artemus B. Walker and friends, had been trolling the water with the puppets to draw attention AND tourists to the region and specifically his hotel. Brilliant… and to this day the town of Perry still talk about their serpent.
Not far east of Perry you will find something spectacular and, thankfully, very real… Letchworth State Park. This 17-mile long gorge, cut thousands of years ago by the Genesee River, is more than 500 feet deep at places and has three high waterfalls along its course. The adjective breathtaking should not be used lightly but fits very well here. The native Seneca called the land around this canyon Sehgahunda, the “Vale of the three falls” and said that the middle fall - Ska-ga-dee was believed to be so wondrous it made the sun stop at midday. We entered from the north and rode along the park road taking in a few of the vistas along the way, stopping for breakfast at the picturesque Glen Iris that we featured back in 2011. There are few restaurants located with such a spectacular view just steps away from their porch. We had run along the roads of the Finger Lakes many times and made short work of these, running through Hammondsport with the great Glen Curtis Museum and Watkins Glen with its own gorge and plethora of places to stay. Heading further east we rode into the western Catskills and then dropped down along the Delaware and back home into New Jersey with a week-long lap of New York now in the books. Billy Joel had it right with his words that he wrote so many years back. New York is a state of mind. I grew up in the state but have never taken the time to see its vastness and diversity, its beauty and its wildness all in one trip. It was only a long week but it truly seemed like a month. So much to see, travel and take in in this great state. From our trip to Orient at the tip of Long Island a few weeks before to the scenic Hudson Valley, the venerable Catskills mountains and the forest of the Adirondacks, the waterways and canals and the spectacular 1,000 Islands. From the great cities of Rochester and Buffalo to the tiny villages of LeRoy and East Aurora – New York is a state of mind and well worth exploring on two wheels. ~ Brian Rathjen
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS
BONUS WE’RE OUTTA HERE
THE 1,000 ISLANDS OF ALEXANDRIA BAY & THE BONNIE CASTLE RESORT 31 HOLLAND ST, ALExANDRIA BAY, NY 13607 315-482-4511 • WWW.BONNIECASTLE.COM like every other “Woh!” column featured in the past we like to entice you to do a bit of traveling. To get out on your machine and, as John Kay sang, “get your motor running.” This month we’ll bring you to a region you might have already been to, or at least heard of, and at the end of this piece we’ll have a bit of an announcement as well! so let’s pack up the bikes and point ourselves in the direction of New york state’s upper regions…cause we’re outa here!
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The region around Alexandria Bay, and a number of other communities, is commonly called the 1,000 Islands. Truth is they call it that because calling it the 1,864 Islands (actual number) does not have the same cache’ to it. Yes, ‘we rode up to the eighteen hundred and sixty four islands’ does not fly off the tongue. Still there are a lot of little spits of land here in this part of the St. Lawrence Seaway. This region is very popular during the warmer months and it has become a big time destination for so many riders – the New York HOG Rally was recently held here – again – at the famed Bonnie Castle Resort and we made it a point to book a room for a few days leading up to this past summer’s HOG gathering. The Bonnie Castle has long been a standard bearer for the region and the resort offers 128 comfortable rooms (many newly renovated), two pools (indoor & outdoor), an award winning restaurant - The Manor House offering breakfast, lunch and dinner, and the pub-style restaurants at the Riverside Sports Bar and The Pointe – a dockside oasis. Outdoor seating is available at all three that have two striking wonders competing each night for your attention – the stunning sunsets and the spectacular view of Boldt Castle.
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016
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We all need a castle and this one is really a love story. Millionaire George C. Boldt, proprietor of the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in New York City, set out to build a fullsized Rhineland-style castle on Heart Island for his beloved wife Louise. Construction began in 1900 on a six-story, 120-room castle, complete with a drawbridge and Italian gardens. Then in 1904 tragedy struck. Boldt telegrammed the island and commanded the workers to “stop all construction.” His wife had died unexpectedly. Boldt never returned to the island. The castle remained vacant for 73 years. Since 1977, millions of dollars have been invested in the restoration of the Heart Island structures and the Yacht House on Wellesley Island and will be a highlight of your stay in the region. You can easily grab a tour of the Seaway and Boldt Castle from the docks in Alex Bay. We did the Two Nation Tour (Yes, that is Canada across the water, do you not smell the maple syrup!?) and it was well worth it. The number and different styles of homes that you will see built on these many islands is phenomenal and if not for the lack of motorcycle riding roads on these we’d recommend buying at least two. For the record an island must meet a criteria to be called such. It must be above the seaway all year round and must have at least one tree and one other shrub, plant or the like. The smallest, Tom Thumb, is truly tiny and might fit a GoldWing on it. Back on dry land we rode to the nearby town of Clayton to visit the Antique Boat Museum. This was a fantastic few hours showing off the largest collection of classic wooden boats in North America. The building holding the racing boats was worth the price of admission all by itself. A real motor heads dream!
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Returning to Alexandria Bay we found the town’s James Street to be home to a number of fine restaurants and shops and if you wish to mix up your dining choices while staying in Alex Bay this main way is a short ride or just a few minutes walk from the Bonnie Castle. On our last night at the Bonnie Castle Resort, while watching the sunset and the castle vying it out for what was more pleasant to look at (truth is the sunset behind the castle is a very winning combination) we thought about how awesome the region is and how much it offers and the fact that the roads leading up to and from the 1,000 Islands can be mixed in the most pleasantly rideable way. So, we gave it just a little bit of thought (true no-brainer) and we’d like to tell you about it right here and right now. Join us on the Backroads Fall Fiesta 2017 – September 21-25. It will be a ‘New York Experience’ and will have a two-night stay, September 22-23, at the Bonnie Castle with stunning and classic New York overnights bookending both sides of the event! Look for full details soon. We hope you will join us and get to toast both the sun and the castle from the dock at the Bonnie Castle!
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS
BONUS BIG CITY GETAWAY
JELL-O GALLERY AND MUSEUM 23 E MAIN ST, LE ROY, NY 14482 • 585-768-7433 APRIL 1 THRU DEC. 31ST • MON-SAT 10AM-4PM/SUN 1-4PM • $4.5 ADMISSION WWW.JELLOGALLERY.ORG
HELLO. There’s Always Room for Jell-O. This slogan is perhaps one of the most famous of all advertising campaigns. But how many of you reading know the history of ‘America’s Most Famous Dessert’? Here goes: The year was 1845, and Peter Cooper, inventor of the Tom Thumb locomotive and founder of Cooper Union (my alma mater), was dabbling with a formula which was ‘set’ with gelatin. Not sure what to do with this, it fell by the wayside. Fifty years later, Pearle Wait, a carpenter in LeRoy, NY was busy making his own cough remedies and laxative tea. He tried something new with gelatin and came up with a fruit flavored dessert. His wife, May, seeing its relation to jelly, decided to call it Jell-O. Although he tried to market it, he lacked experience and funding and, in 1899, sold the formula to another Le Royan for a mere $450. Orator Frank Woodward had already made several successful products such as Grain-O, a roasted cereal substitute for coffee and tea, and several proprietary medicines. The Genesee Pure Foods Company first used the name Jell-O in 1900. While sales were slow going at first by 1902, with a creative advertising campaign, Jell-O sales mounted to $250,000. By 1909, posted sales were over a million dollars, and four years later that number doubled. In 1904 4-year-old Elizabeth King was introduced as the Jell-O Girl, with teakettle in one hand and Jell-O package in the other. Keeping up with the times, in 1934 General Foods took on Jack Benny and the whole world came to know ‘J-E-L-L-O’. Fast forward: Jell-O moved from hand-packaging to a highly mechanized factory and one of LeRoy’s most important industries. In 1925, the company was sold to the Postum Cereal Company, which would eventually become General Foods Corp. In 1964 Jell-O left its hometown to make its way in the wide world and today it is manufactured by Kraft/General Foods in Dover, Delaware. Making our way from Alexandria Bay to Hamburg NY for the International BMW Rally, how could we not make a stop at this wiggly gallery of fun. Pulling up in front of the historic Le Roy House, we took a walk back along the Jell-O Brick Road, paved with the names of supporters of the LeRoy Historical Society. There bright and early, we waited a bit for them to set up for the day and, in the mean time, docent Ruth Harvie proceeded to regal us with the tale of the large spoons hanging over the entry door. Once we were cleared to enter, she told us to take a seat and, in a way that would win any story telling
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BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016 competition, gave us the complete background of Jell-O with witty anecdotes and personalized tidbits. Sitting with her handmade walking stick, topped with a hammer (did we dare not follow her instructions), we learned all there is to know about the most famous of desserts. Original flavors? Orange, lemon, strawberry and raspberry – lime was added in 1930. Who eats the most and what flavor? Salt Lake City consumes more lime-flavored Jell-O than any other US city. In 1993, technicians at St. Jerome hospital in Batavia tested a bowl of lime Jell-O with an EEG machine and confirmed a previous test, in 1974 by Dr. Adrian Upton, that it has brain waves identical to those of adult men and women. Of course, we all know that a bowl of Jell-O isn’t alive and can never eat our brains – right?
Continuing on our own through the gallery, we saw the original paintings used to print the advertising cards handed out to promote the delicious dessert. Norman Rockwell was later employed for some of their advertisements. There were original recipes for everything from Jell-O Marshmallow to Under-theSea Salad. Who can forget the magazine ads featuring Tuna and Jell-O Pie or Lime Cheese Salad? I know I’d like to. Further on you’ll find a wall of Jell-O molds and a stuffed giraffe. Wait……WHAT? Why would you find a giraffe’s head in a Jell-O Museum? Rather than me telling you, just read the card.
Now here’s one for Mysteries at the Museum. Like all good museums, they have you exit through the gift shop where you will inevitably find some Jell-O token to take home with you. If you head down the stairs past the gift shop, you’ll enter the Transportation Museum, in the basement of the original Jell-O factory, featuring some great antique wagons, carts and such with the prized piece being a 1908 Cadillac ‘horseless carriage’ purchased and driven by a woman. Visiting the Jell-O Museum and Gallery will certainly bring out the inner child in you. While you’re there, spend some time in the Le Roy House and Transportation Museum; perhaps take a walk around the town itself. It’s places like these that keep history in the forefront and help you to appreciate our country’s past. And, who doesn’t like Jell-O? ~ shira Kamil
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS
BONUS BONUS BIG CITY GETAWAY
THE ANTIQUE BOAT MUSEUM
Just because we personally are not into a particular sport or passion does not mean that we are not moved by the beauty, grace and workmanship that others strive for in any particular genre. Take boats for instance. Who doesn’t dream of sailing off somewhere beautiful and adventurous? The reality for most boaters is that huge sucking sound that emanates from their bank accounts and wallets.
and character of these wooden boats. When traveling in the Thousand Island region of New York we heard of the Antique Boat Museum in the village of Clayton, and made it a point to drop by and take a quick walk through the museum. It is impossible to take a quick walk through the Antique Boat Museum in Clayton, New York. The Antique Boat Museum has the largest collection of these craft and related boats in North America and, in addition to preserving their history and showcasing their stunning beauty, they also strive to portray the importance these boats have had in North America and particularly the St. Lawrence River region. From the first native canoes to the European ships and today’s massive cargo vessels, this region would not be as celebrated as it is today if not for the boat.
But, as Lyle Lovett sang, “If I had a boat, I’d go out on the ocean.” Ahh, yes. And, if I had a boat I would surely want it to be a classic wooden antique craft. Since the very first time I saw one up close and personal, I have been taken with the smooth lines, stunning craftsmanship and captured by color, tone
The museum got its start from a need for a permanent place to hold a boat show that was started in the mid-1960s. Local supporters of the show, that was becoming ever more popular, bought waterside property in the town of Clayton and started a small museum there, which would host the show. In the 40 years since its founding the Museum has built up a substantial
750 MARY ST., CLAYTON, NY 13624 315- 686-4104 • WWW.ABM.ORG SEASONAL HOURS MAY THRU OCTOBER • ADMISSION • GROUP TOURS AVAILABLE If I had a boat, I’d go out on the ocean And if I had a pony, I’d ride him on my boat And we could all together go out on the ocean Me upon my pony on my boat
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waterfront campus that encompasses 4.5 acres of public program space, 1900’ of dockage and 1300’ of St. Lawrence River shoreline. The 10 buildings on the campus contain 29,000 square feet of space. As you would think, you will spend a good deal of time (well spent by the way) searching out and exploring the various buildings, displays and rich history of boating in the region and North America. Displays on early canoes were deeply fascinating and the large displays of various wooden boats were almost like walking through a museum of art and not boats. They are stunning to behold, especially up close where you can see all the rich details and craftsmanship. Outdoors you will find a number of skiffs that you can take out on the water yourself. Seriously. Right next to the skiffs you will find the 106’ houseboat La Duchesse, one of the finest houseboats on the planet and well worth touring if it is open. But, as motor-heads it was one building that was truly noteworthy and that really grabbed our attention. The Quest for Speed exhibit in the Gold Cup Building, was completed in 2008. The exhibition showcases the history of boat racing, from the outstanding Gold Cup and Harmsworth Trophy winner, Dixie II, to record setting hydroplanes and modified Packard and Liberty airplane engines.
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Walking into the Quest for Speed is a jaw-dropping experience. In here we are talking a wondrous combination of nautical expertise, craftsmanship, design, power and just a wee bit of pluck. What do you do with the extra Merlin V-12 27 Liter engines left over from the military, the same engines that powered some of the fastest and most powerful aircraft in World War II? You shove that engine into a boat and go out to see just how fast you can go. The wall highlighting the different years and the ever-increasing speeds is something to grasp and the videos of the classic old races are as exciting as any Moto GP race you would see today. Let me drop a name here. Guy Lombardo. Yes, the same Guy that brought many of us through the end and beginning of each year. It seems that the famed band leader was also a famed speed boat racer as well; holding numerous speed records and was considered one of the greats on water as well as the band stand. As I said you will spend a bit of time walking around the Antique Boat Museum and, if you have ever seen and lusted after one of the great old wooden crafts that ply the many larger lakes of this land then make it a point to motor past the town of Clayton, along the St. Lawrence River – it is a museum that should not be missed.
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS
The Lands aT hiLLside farms 65 HILLSIDE RD, SHAVERTOWN, PA 18708 • 570-696-2881 • WWW.THELANDSATHILLSIDEFARMS.ORG OPEN DAILY 8AM-8PM This month’s Inside Scoop is more than just ice cream. The Lands at Hillside Farms is a 19th century, 412-acre, non-profit educational dairy farm where visitors can be up close and personal with the many animals who live here, and there are quite a few. Being a dairy farm, there are several breeds of cows that all contribute to the wonderful end product that originally brought me here. A little background: Jersey Cows, originating from the channel island of Jersey, located off the coast of Normandy, France, and known for their high-quality milk, which is rich in protein, butter fat minerals and trace elements. Usually light brown in color with a black nose bordered by a white muzzle, they are calm and have a friendly temperament. Holstein Cows, the most popular breed of cow, originated in Europe and date back nearly 2,000 years. These are the black and white cows you’ll most likely see while riding around any farmlands. Brown Swiss, originating in the northeastern area of Switzerland, are considered the oldest of all dairy breeds, with skeletal remains consistent with this breed traced back to 4,000 B.C. Light brown in color, they produce milk high in protein and butter fat. Milking Devon Oxen, introduced to American in 1623 by the Pilgrims, are valued for their rich milk and high-quality beef, are ruby red with black-tipped white horns, and are surefooted, confident and excellent on rugged, rocky terrain. You’ll also find some other roaming critters including chicken, Dorset sheep, Alpine goats, Sardinian donkeys and the always-present farm cats. There’s a pair of Alpaca, Belle and Miss Muffett, who will turn their beautifully stoic eyes on you should you take the path to their pens. Okay, so now you know all the players at Lands at Hillside Farms. On to the ice cream. Homemade with the uber-delicious dairy product from the resident cows, Hillside’s ice cream comes in many varieties. You have your basic vanilla, chocolate and strawberry. Then you might find some seasonal flavors like Pumpkin, Peppermint Stick or Cinnamon. Sandwiched in between are orange pineapple, maple
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016
walnut, cookies & cream, coconut cream and the like. During our visit they had something called ‘Chicken Scratch’ listed. How could you not want to try it? We inquired as to what this might be and the young lady behind the counter answered, ‘Oh, you wouldn’t like it.’ Hmm, all the more reason to give it a go. Turns out it was simply vanilla ice cream mixed with sprinkles. What’s not to like? You can choose from several sundaes such as Berry Delicious: black raspberry ice cream, strawberry and blueberry toppings, whipped cream and a cherry or Carnival Crunch: Chocolate marshmallow ice cream, marshmallow topping, frosted animal cookies, whipped cream and, of course, a cherry. There are shakes and floats, cups and cones and dairy of all descriptions. After you’ve made your choice, head outside to the umbrella-covered tables or the many picnic tables indoors. Peruse the shop for all thinks locally sources: honey, maple syrup and so many other tasty treats. Out back you’ll find the Mercantile Shop, with handmade items and doodads. Take a stroll and see the critters. As Simon and Garfunkel put it, ‘It’s a light and tumble journey, and the animals will love it if you do.’ Most importantly, enjoy your visit to Hillside Farms. It may be just a stone’s throw from a very busy road, but you’ll find a little bit of peace and serenity on their grounds.
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EVENT RECAP
NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS
CROSS COUNTRY POWERSPORTS VINTAGE & CUSTOM BIKE SHOW
Earlier this year we rode to Pennsylvania to take in the annual bike show at Martin Moto – this past September we stayed Jersey-side of the Delaware River and took in the classic gathering at Cross Country Powersports in Metuchen. The Vintage & Custom Bike Show was a first for the megashop off I-287 and they had a serious gathering of machines entered to win the top prizes. Most of the machines were ridden in (rather than towed) and
and for an hour after the Vintage & Custom Bike Show began, the doors seemed to continually open to allow another machine to be rolled in to one of the few spots remaining for contestants. The ‘People’s Choice’ judging would be done by the folks and riders who came down for the show with 1st, 2nd & 3rd place being awarded. The trophies were created by Justin Reid, Cross Country
it is always great to see old and classic iron, but even better when the bikes are still warm from the ride in. There was a great combination of stock, custom, old and older machines and some that were truly unique – like Klaus Huenecke’s, from EPM Performance, 1970 Munch 1200-4; probably the most distinctive machine there. Most of Cross Country’s motorcycle stock was rolled out of the large showroom this Saturday and, even after we got there
service writer and owner of Longwood Customs, and we thought they were about as creative a moto-award as we have ever seen; much more art by themselves than simply trophies. We did our part - Shira picking what moved her and me choosing what I could see myself owning and riding in a world full of unlimited financial resources. At the end of the day Klaus Huenecke’s 1970 Munch 1200-4 (no surprise) and Fernando Silva’s 2012 Harley Road Glide both took first place
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016
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trophies for their class. Good on Dan, Lois, Pete and crew at Cross Country for this show – it made for a great Saturday afternoon and we hope it returns next year.
free WheeLin’
(Continued from Page 4)
This Backroads Effect paradigm is really a multi-part upshot of some really fine human beings, who happen to enjoy the great outdoors, exploring what is around that mountain or over that horizon. The bonds and friendships that come from the Backroads Effect are plain to see. Whether it is an impromptu dinner, a long weekend trip with a few couples or a yearly gathering of friends in the middle of the winter. At our last event Shira and I sat back and watched old and new friends having a blast in New Hampshire – the Backroads Effect in full swing! Why it came about might really be a mystery, but the real important thing is that it came about. Now grab some friends and go for a ride. WhaTchaThinkin’
(Continued from Page 5)
So, get out that pad and open the calendar. Make those dates with yourself to pack up the bike and hit the road ‘cause, before you know it, your somedays will have come and gone and all you’ll have are the lyrics to the song echoing in your head. on The mark
(Continued from Page 7)
Working on motorcycles can be a very satisfying and even relaxing experience. Working on a motorcycle on which someone else has made ill-conceived or ill-executed modifications can be a little slice of hell. Even on a properly-maintained machine, it doesn’t take much to make a wrong turn on the offramp to the Project Zone. posTcards from The hedge
(Continued from Page 6)
other changes such as brake placement). But on a full-size motorcycle, it doesn’t seem to quite fit although the modern Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT) is an amazingly versatile creature, and works wonderfully well in many applications. They are also comparatively simple chaps, which is always welcome from a reliability/maintenance standpoint. This is in contrast with the dual-clutch automatics, which are certainly efficient at getting the power to the ground (and in many ways similar to the conventional gearbox) but man, there are some really tricked out Spacely Sprocket bits in some of these beasts and I don’t really get whether the pluses truly outweigh the minuses. But maybe it’s just me. I find myself getting more and more skeptical about much of the latest tech, and becoming curmudgeonly when I see change for change’s sake without any real improvement. Innovation and the adoption of new technology are great things, but only when they actually make something better. And even when they do improve performance or convenience or safety, there is often a price to pay in other areas. I do love all the advanced engine management on my Triumph (and even the clock, which my ye olde bikes don’t have) but it sure plays hell with the battery charge state when parked for a couple of weeks. And as much as I appreciate that the Connecticut State Police was there to help when I was sparkless, I think these men and women have better things to do than man the cables.
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS
Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival
Take the Weather With You…. hey Backroads i have an 1150 RT, a street bike, with street tires. i love the winter. i love riding during a gentle snowfall. Can i do this on an RT with road tires? What do you think? What tips do you have? A few years back my wife and I were riding from Austria to northern Italy. I was on a BMW K1200RS and Shira was on a BMW R1150R – both had street-based tires. We had planned to go over one of the tougher and twistier mountain passes, but were told that it was closed due to a snowfall and small avalanche. The cars that were coming off the peak were heavy with a wet snow. We went to plan B, which would bring us over the Alps on the larger Autostrada. Things were peachy as we made our assent with a wide paved highway to play with and blue skies, if not warm temperatures. As we got higher I began to notice that it was growing darker and more ominous above us. Then cars and trucks coming from Italy to Germany came bearing snow along for the ride. As the flakes began to fall on us we were passed by a few larger touring bikes heading to Austria, their saddlebags and top cases heavy with fresh snow. Oh, boy.
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Within minutes we were in a deep blizzard with minimal visibility and running along large trucks making their run over the Alps to Italy and the warmer south. Although the thought of riding along a back road through a light snow might seem romantic, the reality was that our machines, especially with street tires, have just a small patch of contact to the ground at any part of the rotation. Add to that far less tractable snow and things can get slippery very fast. A more offroad tire might be a consideration here, but who wants to swap tires all the time? On our whiteout ride over the Alps the one thing both Shira and I kept in mind was the thought – SMOOTH! Smooth acceleration. Smooth braking. Smooth inputs to the machine’s controls. Anything herky or jerky would be problematic. This would apply in the Alps or locally if you are caught out in the snow or just have that overwhelming desire to get the heart rate up and adrenalin flowing. Another thing to consider is that the BMW R1150RT is not a small machine. Smaller motorcycles are easier to handle in these sorts of situations. Heading into Italy the K1200RS was a bit top-heavy and had a massive amount of horsepower at hand with an easy twist of the wrist. Controlling speed with a large powerful bike like this, or your RT, is key. Think smooth, think steady, think about going some-
BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2016
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where warm with a beach! The same can be said for riding in the rain. Watch the road. Stay relaxed. Even in perfect weather we want to be relaxed and loose on the bikes. When it gets iffy out there riders sometimes tend to get tight and unmovable. This just screws with the natural balance of the machine. Stay loose, flap your wings a bit like a chicken (Thank you Reg!) and loosen up. When it comes time to stop be easy and thoughtful when braking. What used to be a little slick can now be very slippery. White lines on the roads will have become ice rinks. Rail crossings metal plates, steel manholes can become treacherous and difficult and it is best to avoid them and puddles too. A puddle might just be that or it can be the surface of a deep hole to HE - Double Hockey Sticks! But, if you must cross them, just as we deal with snow, do so in a smooth and easy manner. Steady on the throttle and look where you want to go. Any quick chops on the throttle or grabbing of the brakes and you will pay. One of the last things we’d like to tell you might be the easiest. When riding you should always be as visible as possible. This goes doubly in inclement weather. Conspicuity can be key in having those drivers around you be aware of your presence on the road and, if they stay away from you, you will not have to deal with any shenanigans they may pull if they are blind to your machine, right? If things do get loose and you recover in a calm and relaxed way remember that was just an error and not a mistake. Learn from it. Remember, as we always say, we learn from our errors, but we pay for our mistakes.
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NOVEMBER 2016 • BACKROADS
UP C OM I N G E VE NT S CAL END AR EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTING
What’s Happening JANUARY 2017
Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-In, Rtes. 15/206, Augusta, NJ. Tire kicking, good food and friends • www.chatterboxdrivein.com
8 • The Tilted Kilt 4095 US Hwy 1 South, Monmouth Junction NJ • 732 783-7138
Every Sunday • Tramontin Harley-Davidson Biker Breakfast. 9-11am (weather permitting). Join us for breakfast before you ride. Great atmosphere, food and hospitality. Tramontin H-D, Exit 12, I-80, Hope, NJ • 908-459-4101 • TramontinHD.com
22 • PIC-A-LILLI INN, 866 Route 206, Shamong, NJ • 609 268-2066
15 • RHODES NORTH TAVERN, 40 Orange Turnpike, Sloatsburg, Ny • 845 753-6438 29 • UPSTREAM GRILLE, 161 Rt. 181, Lake Hopatcong, NJ • 973 663-2222
OCTOBER 2016
FEBRUARY 2017
29 • Hannums Harley-Davidson Octoberfest + Bike Giveaway • 10am-4pm. Bikini Contest, Wheelie Wizard, ChiliFest + Tijuana Auction, BBQ, Live Music. Raindate: Oct. 30 • 1011 W Baltimore Pike, Media, PA • HannumsHD.com
5 • THE FRANKLIN HOUSE TAVERN, 101 North Market St, Schaefferstown PA • 717 949-2122
29 • Cross Country Powersports Beautiful Bikers Day with guest speakers Porsche Taylor and SJ Harris. 11am-3pm • 911 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ • 732-635-0094 • crosscountrycycle.net
19 • THE EXCHANGE, 160 E. Main St, Rockaway, NJ • 973 627-8488
NOVEMBER 2016 4 • Ryan Pyle: Tough Rides Brazil presentation - 6-8pm @ Cross Country Cycle, 911 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ • crosscountrycycle.net • 732-635-0094 4-5 • Cross Country BMW exclusively hosting the BMW Demo Truck. Come test ride your favorite BMW - choose from the fleet of 2016 motorcycles. Sign up begins 8:30 both days. Pre-registration: www.CrossCountryCycle.net or Facebook.com/CrossCountryCycle (does not guarantee specific model or time) • 911 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ • 732-635-0094
12 • O’Connor’s American Grille 1383 Monmouth Rd, Easthampton,NJ • 609-261-1555 26 • HOOTERS, 25 Rte-23 South, Wayne, NJ • 973 837-1876
MARCH 2017 5 • BAHRS LANDING, 2 Bay Ave., Highlands, NJ • 732 872-1245 12 • Lighthouse Tavern 397 Route 9, Waretown, NJ • 609-693-3150 19 • LONG VALLEy PUB, 1 Fairmount Rd, Long Valley, NJ • 908 876-1122 26 • THE CHATTERBOX, #1 Rt. 15 South, Augusta, NJ • 973 300-2300
APRIL 2017 2 • BRIAN’S HD, 600 S. Flowers Mill Rd, Langhorne PA • 215 752-9400 PA
25 • 2nd Annual Black Friday Ride @ Bob's BMW Motorcycles, 10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD. After a great success in 2015, Bob’s will be hosting a 2nd annual Black Friday Ride! Avoid shopping pandemonium and #optoutsideon2wheels Visit bobsbmw.com for details.
30 • CAPE MAy VFW POST# 386, 419 Congress St, Cape May, NJ • 609 884-7961
25 • MeetUp & Ride with Bob’s Road Crew @ Bob’s BMW Motorcycles, 10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD. Exciting group ride led by Bob! Details visit bobsbmw.com
MAY 5 • END OF SEASON GET-TOGETHER • The Pic-a-Lilli Inn, 866 Route 206, Shamong, NJ • 609 268-2066 @ 11:30am. Members: $6/person
DECEMBER 2016
Follow us on Facebook for up-to-the-minute information Visit our online Calendar for more details
3 • Holiday Party for all at Morton's BMW Motorcycles, 5099A Jefferson Davis Highway, Fredericksburg, VA. Great deals, tasty treats, and hot cider await you from 9am-4pm. Everyone is welcome! More info at 540-891-9844 or www.mortonsbmw.com
9 • THE HICKORy BBQ SMOKE HOUSE, 743 Rt. 28 Kingston; Ny • 845 338-2424 23 • CHEEBURGER CHEEBURGER, 336 Northampton St, Easton, PA • 610 438-1311
backroadsusa.com/events.html
11-17 • Join Backroads on a week’s riding in the Mountains of Tenerife, beautiful islands of Spain, with Edelweiss Tours. www.edelweissbike.com 17 • 9am-4pm • Holiday Cheer Open House @ Bob's BMW Motorcycles, 10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD. The annual customer appreciation day is Bob’s favorite event of the year. It’s a time to think back and smile on yet another wonderful and fun year of riding and serving customers! Visit bobsbmw.com for details.
FEBRUARY 2017 10-12 • Timonium Motorcycle Show,Maryland State Fairgrounds, Timonium, MD. Indoor show featuring Travel, Touring & Adventure area, New Product Technical Presentation & Demo Workshop, The Powersports Expo and so much more. For full details please visit the website: www.cycleshow.net • 410-561-7323
MAY 2017 18-21 • BACKROADS SPRING BREAK - ALMOST HEAVEN TOUR. Full details- see ad on page 43.
JUNE 2017 5-10 • DirtDaze - Lake Luzerne, Ny • 518-798-7888 • www.DirtDaze.com 6-10 • Americade - Lake George, Ny • 518-798-7888 • www.americade.com
SEPTEMBER 2017 21-25 • BACKROADSFALL FIESTA - NY STATE OF MIND TOUR. Full details announced soon.
POLAR BEAR SCHEDULE 2016-2017 Bob Hartpence Chairman • 609-894-2941 • bear1733@verizon.net www.PolarBearGrandTour.com • 908-722-0128 for schedule updates Oct. 30 • CAPE MAy VFW POST 386, 419 Congress St, Cape May, NJ• 609 884-7961
NOVEMBER 2016 6 • IRISH EyES PUB, 213 Anglers Rd, Lewes, DE 19958 • 302 645-6888 13 • EAGLES 350 Woodside Lane, Bridgewater NJ 08807 • 908 526-9898 20 • DETHOMASI’S EAST 5 POINTS INN, 580 Tuckahoe Rd & Landis Ave, Vineland, NJ • 856 691-6080 27 • HILLBILLy HALL, 203 Hopewell-Wertsville Rd, Hopewell, NJ • 609 466-9856
DECEMBER 2016 4 • MONTGOMERyVILLE CyCLE, 2901 Bethlehem Pike, Hatfield, PA • 215 712-7433 11 • APPALACHIAN BREWING CO., 50 W 3rd Ave Collegeville, PA • 484 973-18 • THE CABIN, 984 Rt. 33, Howell, NJ 07731 • 732 462-3090 • CHRISTMAS PARTY - BRING A TOY FOR THE CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL (do not wrap present)
Come Ride the Dragon Deals Gap 318 Curves in 11 Miles
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