November 2019

W H A T ’ S

I N S I D E

MO NT HLY C O L U M NS

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................3 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................4

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................5

Contributors

Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Dr. Seymour O’Life

ON THE MARK ....................................................6 BACKLASH..........................................................8 INDUSTRY INFOBITES .....................................10 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ..............14

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2019. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2019

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN

TogeTher We rise For the last number of years, the motorcycle industry has been holding a convention of the Powersports Industry.

It started in Orlando, Florida and has since bounced back and forth between Las Vegas and Columbus, Ohio – where they held this year’s AIMExpo.

We had been to the first few in Florida, but with this year’s AIMExpo being held on the last weekend in September and us just coming off our very successful and fun Fall Fiesta, we made plans to fly out to the Buckeye State and see what was new and, more importantly, what the Motorcycle Industry Council and some of the heavy hitters in the motorcycle industry had to say about the state of the industry.

In addition to a huge showing of new products from a wide swath of the powersports industry, OEMs and various other vendors, the MIC had brought up a serious topic for, not only the people who make a living in and around motorcycles, but all of us as riders as well.

It has been obvious for some time that the motorcycle industry, in general, has never really recovered from 2008. Yes, we are all still riding and loving motorcycles but, that is the problem.

It is still just us…

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We need new blood. We need to bring new riders into the fold and that was the gist of the message that the AIMExpo was trying to bring to Ohio.

For 2019, AIMExpo was themed Together We Rise.

When the non-riding public thinks motorcycles they usually have a paradigm created by Hollywood. To them, we are all the same. Loud, annoying, perhaps even a bit scary. Sons of Anarchy, henchmen, the bad guys.

We all know that is not true, but in one way I wish we thought we were all the same.

Let’s be honest – our sport is made up of many tribes – each thinking their way of riding and loving motorcycles is the best way.

We have hard-core bikers and cruisers, sport-tourers, dirt riders, racers, adventurers and more. We have those who have been riding the same bike for years and those who have an entire fleet of machines covering it all.

We have riders that use their machines daily, and those who have a bike and, maybe, ride twice a year.

The industry is the same way. Harley here, Honda there.

BMW, Suzuki, Indian, Triumph, Yamaha, Kawasaki and the rest all trying, as was said at The General Session held on the first evening in Columbus, to grab a bigger piece of an ever-shrinking pie.

The statement “Together We Rise” was timely and much needed.

It was a direct reference to the collective benefit of working as a united industry and moving forward in unison.

It sounds like a noble thought and we have much on our side to do this and certainly much to be gained by working a bit more closely with the people from the other side – whomever you or they are.

Continued on Page 7

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NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

3,000 miles on their tires and they were mostly worn in the center and they would be mostly using the edges on the track so they should be okay. WHAT!!!!

We sincerely hoped they were joshing when they said this…

The first night of the rally was spent in Orange, VA at the Comfort Inn and Suites owned by our very own Pam and Tim Collins. They certainly rolled out the red carpet for us as their manager Martin spoiled us with a welcome banner, a tremendous spread of food and drink and a bike wash setup, complete with soap, buckets, sponges and towels.

The first to take advantage was ‘Driving Miss Daisy’ Mark Byers, taking good care of Betsy’s birthday present BMW. Not to be outdone, many of us stepped up to wash our steeds. It’s been mentioned in these pages and on our social media sites that washing your bike is a great way to take stock of its well being; getting in the nooks and crannies to make sure that screws, nuts and bolts, and other working parts are where they should be and all is sound.

I mention this because, on this trip, we had not one, not two, but three riders who had to find tire replacements during the rally. I can say that both Brian and I have gone on a trip and have had to replace a tire due to poor judgment before we left – BUT ONLY ONCE. If you are going on a ride that will put hundreds, if not a thousand, miles on your tires and your say to yourself, ‘I think they should be okay’ – CHANGE THEM. Isn’t it better to spend a little bit of time while you are home and have the convenience of either your own tire changing or a shop that you know and trust to get the job done than to have to interrupt your vacation, find a place that has the time and the right tire and, more importantly, take away from the well meaning person or people who either have offered or are volunteered to assist in your dilemma? Presumably, you know how many miles are already on your tires and what the life expectancy is – PLAN ACCORDINGLY. We love to see everyone on our rallies; you are all like our extended family, complete with the crazy uncle, the quirky cousins and the brother from another mother. All we ask is that you take stock of your bike before coming along for the ride – it will make for a much more enjoyable experience for everyone.

WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL

Come PrePared We were returning from AIMExpo in Columbus, Ohio – the meeting of the motorsports industry for both trade and consumer attendance. Because we had just returned from our Fall Fiesta a few days prior to the start, we did not have time to make the ride out (although we met many friends who did and were jealous that they had their own transportation around this area for exploration). We relied on the sometimes friendly skies of United to get us there and back on one of their Embraer 145 jets – or as we referred to it as ‘the Little Bus’. While the quarters are a bit more cramped on these jets, what I like about them is pilots who have some military background usually fly them and that they actually ‘fly’ the plane rather than putting it on autopilot. Takeoffs and landings are always exciting.

When we landed in Newark, I was surprised to find that we did not pull up to a jet way at the terminal but rather were disembarked via stairs onto a bus, which took us to the terminal. I hadn’t done that in quite some time and it reminded me of being on some Caribbean island, except I was in Newark. Having to wait for my wheelie bag to be deplaned, I watched as the pilot – a young man – walk around the plane with one of the landing crew people, obviously checking the aircraft. Good to know that they take a personal responsibility for their craft and the people who trust their lives to them.

This brought me to thinking of said Fall Fiesta that we had just finished. About a dozen of the folks who attended it made the time to come to CLASS at VIR the days prior to its beginning. While it is not a requirement to safety wire or such for the track, they do require your tires to be in new condition. We had a few folks query about the condition of their tires and we strongly suggested they put new tires on before making the trek to southern Virginia and continuing on to the rides of the Fall Fiesta. One or two mentioned that they only had about

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BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2019

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD

Crazy or PrudenT The human being is a sensitive creature, don’t you think? Normally when somebody mentions sensitivity and humans, they tend to think of emotions, feelings and the like. But this time I am pondering the incredible array of senses we have, and how with all these tools to describe our environment to our consciousness there’s a lot to take in. This is usually a great thing, but sometimes it can be a problem. For example, if you’re on a long trip, especially one that takes you into remote places, your senses can start to provide you with too much information. Undoubtedly some of you will not fall prey to what I’m about to talk about, for you are spared the ravages of being hypersensitive. But some of you will know exactly what I’m referring to, for you are so wired up that you get more sensory input than might be considered prudent at times. You’re out on the open road, let’s say it’s kind of a desolate, open stretch and your primary thoughts are how far it is to the next place to get fuel as you seem to be running a tad lower than planned.

Then, it happens. You start to hear every burble, every combustion cycle, the coolant pumping through the radiator, you name it. What was that!? I just heard something weird. Was it an errant timing chain link, about to shred the engine to bits and leave me stranded, an easy meal for sabertooth tigers and chupacabras? The eyesight likewise ramps up the paranoia, with an armed desperado behind every tumbleweed. But you know what gets me the most? The sensation of

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touch, or more accurately, how the bike feels.

The other day I got one of those shots of memory that made me realize why I am hypersensitive to what the tires are doing when traveling on long, isolated trips. When I was a kid, a member of my family (who will remain nameless at this juncture) had the habit of convincing herself (OK, I’ve exposed the gender. Damn.) that there was something wrong with one of the tires when on a road trip. It was a vibration, or queasiness as if something was under-inflated, or some sort of peculiarity that would drive said person to stop the car, and tell one of the kids to get out and check things. There was never, ever, anything wrong, but the inspection did wonders for the peace of mind.

Better safe than sorry, right? Of course.

Back in the present day and back on two wheels, the problem is (especially at night) the road surface can play some serious mischief peace of mind. Something I’ve learned over time is even during the day, on what appears to be billiard-tablesmooth pavement, there can be irregularities that can put a very odd vibration into your chassis (almost like you have a tire losing air or a wheel that has thrown off a balance weight). This can be especially common on roads where snow plows roam free during the winter, for the big beasts seem to create ripples on the pavement that can generate all kinds of subtle vibratory mayhem. Is there, in fact, a problem with the machine, or are you a victim of some sort of paved devilment? This is a very straightforward problem, but the issue is an often-vexing one. Do I pull over and check to see that all the bits and pieces that comprise the motorcycle are, in fact, working? Or do I soldier on; assuming I’m just getting hypersensitive and the road is just having some fun with me?

Continued on Page 11

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NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

ON THE MARK MARK ByERS

home groWn In the summer, we can go to a number of local stands and get fresh sweet corn and vegetables, whose taste is better than anything from a store.

For furniture, there are a couple Amish shops where they will make you some of the finest items you can imagine at a fair price. After a hail storm, when we had to have our roof replaced, we used a local firm with a long history rather than one of the “storm chaser” companies that deluged us with phone calls and cards stuck in our door. There is just something about stuff that is home grown.

The same is true of motorcycle gear: the stuff made offshore and marketed through the giant retailers just doesn’t have the same quality as the stuff cooked up in an enthusiast’s workshop by real, skilled tradesmen who may actually have ridden a motorcycle to work today and who use their own gear to go on trips. The glorified beer cans that came on my Vstrom as factory-standard side and top cases leaked like sieves from day one. A driveway tipover did serious damage to the right case and bent the underperforming mount for it, which later broke at the weld. Thankfully, there are multiple homegrown replacement options here in the US. After I unceremoniously took the old mounts off and cast them asunder, and thanks to a recommendation from a friend with 185K miles on a set, I ended up going with mounts from Happy Trails in Boise, Idaho. I knew I’d hit pay dirt when I called and Tim answered the phone: that was Tim Bernard, the owner. Tim’s in his late 60’s, still rides despite a broken neck and a heart attack (at different times), and still does motorcycle trail-riding promotion in Idaho. For a reasonable price, he set me up with a set of racks that should last me a

lifetime and not only did he not care I wasn’t buying his bags, he recommended an inexpensive part for his racks that would make the competitor’s bags fit better. That’s home-grown.

As for the competitor’s bags, I was impressed by a brand of soft panniers I’d seen on the rental bikes from Ecuador Freedom – a brand called Mosko, named for the Mosquito Coast of Honduras and Nicaragua. I will say right up front that the sewing on the bags is NOT home-grown, but the company is headquartered and the designs are done in a tiny town on the Columbia River Gorge called White Salmon, Washington. I am very familiar with that town, having passed through there on many trips to hunt the slopes of Mount Adams, and despite having just over 3,000 people, they have an excellent little hospital (don’t ask).

The folks at Mosko support all kinds of outdoor activities and when the world cycling body outlawed the big, metal bags that most of us who work races on motos favor, Mosko stepped up and offered us some help in re-kitting our machines with their soft bags (which the cycling body finds acceptable).

They’re an innovative design that slides over a flat plate mounted on your racks, making them easily removable. They’re also double-bags, with the outer shell providing the security and abrasionresistance and the inner liner providing the waterproofing. Together, they are a formidable pair. They incorporate the military-style “molle” gear design, so you can go crazy attaching stuff to the surface of the bags too.

Neither Happy Trails nor Mosko have distributors and they work direct-to-customer, allowing them to keep prices down. If you research either company on the internet, you’ll find them staffed with true enthusiasts who don’t just talk the talk. Happy Trails “About Us” video is one of the prettiest I’ve seen and the Mosko gallery and blogs prove Continued on Page 11

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2019 Free Wheelin’

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The answers we seek can not be a short-term fix, rather a long-term solution.

These solutions take time, although the economic downturn in 2008 seemed to happen very fast, most economists were not surprised when it happened. The writing was on the walls; so has it been with our industry.

The four Japanese manufacturers are all vying for the same buyers, Germany is looking to convert them and Harley had been on top for so long they felt like Superman – invulnerable to anything.

We can now see this was not the case.

So, what to do? That was the question that came up and the MIC is having another gathering on November 21 to get further down the highway with this.

I spoke with Chuck Boderman, Vice President of American Honda Powersports Division, and a long-time friend, after the session and simply asked…

“What can we, Backroads, do to help?”

He said they hope to have some solid and a forward-thinking game plan after the November meeting and that we all knew the need for new riders was key.

We agree... we need new riders on every level.

We need to entice the non-riding public to look at motorcycles in a more than brighter light. We need to ignite passion, lust, and desire in them.We need to show that motorcycles are not just economical and useful – but fun, exciting and…cool.

We need to get young people on bikes, even if it is a bicycle. A recent survey I read stated that 40% fewer children were riding bicycles than a decade ago.

40%! That is scary. I lived on my bicycle when I was a kid. If kids are not riding a bicycle there is little hope they will ride motorcycles.

At AIMExpo there was a company called STACYC that had these small, balanced electric bikes and they had several children – and I mean small children maybe 4 years old on – doing laps on a tiny oval track.

They were awesome. They were fun to watch. They were having a blast. They are the future for us, and they will be adults looking to ride in a blink of an eye.

The industry and we riders have to look way, way down the road.

Like riding a motorcycle, if we look right in front of our wheels we will crash. If we look a decade or two further down the road – we will surely arrive.

So here is my call to you Backroads readers.Take these words seriously. Be a mentor to new riders. Bring one, just one other person, into our world.

They will be happier and more fulfilled that you did. And, if we all do this, our future, as an industry and as riders, looks much brighter.

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NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

BACKLASH

Letters to the Editor

Good morning Brian & Shira, My mom, Sarah Sutera, is the head tailor at Naetone Deluxe Cleaners & Tailors in Newton, NJ. She recently mailed me some issues of “Backroads”. Thank you for the complimentary issues! As an avid motorcycle/ATV enthusiast myself, I truly enjoyed reading your magazine. Each article reminded me of the reason why I got into riding in the first place: to continuously fuel my never ending passion for seeking out that next adventure. Whether it’s to break the monotony of a mundane work week, racing at a local track on the weekend, or embracing American nostalgia on historic Route 66, your readers will understand & appreciate the never ending passion that drives them to throw a leg over their favorite bike or quad. Through this camaraderie & euphoria, we all find our catharsis through riding.

I wish you and your staff all the best in your future endeavors!

Best regards, dan sutera • suzuki motor of america, inc.

it, it’s there, most people don’t begin their ride in the rain.

I don’t remember what followed but I’m sure it was an admonishment to do something about it. Eventually of course, the weather cleared and sales picked up.

Regards, mike V. Some Backroads love from our friends. Left: The folks at PCPS in Boonton, NJ (they keep the computers up to snuff at Backroads Central) promoting our accomplishments. Right: What to do between sets

I take it Bill Heald is too young to remember when Harley had an official Hummer model, 1955 to 1959, a 125cc two-stroke — although the Hummer name was unofficially used when referring to other small Harley two-strokes. I learned to ride on one of them back in 1955.

Clement salvadori • atascadero Ca Hi Guys, Enjoyed the latest issue of Backroads, particularly your editorial about the weather. Personally, I usually enjoy riding in the rain, although we haven’t had much out here in So Cal for a while. Anyway, your editorial reminded me of a conversation I had with my boss when I was at Triumph. It went something like this: Him: What’s happening with sales in the US, you’re behind.

Me: Well Karl, the weather has been crappy all over the US, and people aren’t going to buy a motorcycle until they can be assured that they’ll have nice weather. Why buy something that’s going to sit in the garage for some unspecified length of time?

Him: They have rain suits don’t they?

Me: Yes, but unlike the UK, here they’re like a lifeboat, if they need

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at R&T Gym in Newton, NJ (they help us keep our bodies up to snuff) Catch up on Backroads, of course.

Guns and Bikes in TBR? Holly Shit! Motorcycles and guns! 2 of the 3 magazines I get each month and on target of almost all my interests in one reading! WOW! I have that Beretta in a slightly more modern version in a 92FS. harvey mushman

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2019

Let me know if you get any blowback from the Beretta article.

Good article anyway; I read it in one of the gun emails. Where’d you see it? I think it was the NRA mag.

Fall Fiesta 2019 Great seeing everyone! I had a blast, as always. Thank you Brian & Shira for another stellar fiesta! Love you guys! larry mosca Hey guys.

I had a great time. The weather, roads, people, accommodations and food - hard to beat. Let’s do it again!

Best, Chuck Potzer Hey Backroads I explored so much of Virginia and West Virginia with great friends on great roads. I logged 1,498 miles and about 36 hours in the saddle!

And yes, it was great!!

Barry Wolfe Hey Shira and Brian, As always, a great job putting together an excellent Fall Fiesta.

Thanks for the amazing experience !!

Jeff Caruana Shira and Brian, You did it again. Keep it going.

Bob schreiber As I sit here Monday morning, waiting for Steve to finish unpacking, I’m saddened that the last 5 days have come and gone like the blink of an eye. I look forward (as do so many) to these trips. It’s like

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one small/big happy family. Some go this way, some go that way, some do this, some do that but we all meet at the same hotel and come together to share stories about our year, life’s changes, daily adventures, sights and things we’d seen along the route.

One of my very good friends (James Michael) whom I’ve known more than half my life brought me to my first trip 7 years ago and I have been joining them ever since (13 trips total) but some have been going for 20 plus years. There is not one person whom I dislike. We all have our different ways, opinions, personalities but we all get along wonderfully and I love each and every single person. And ALL this is because of TWO very Special People. Brian Rathjen and Shira Kamil with Backroads Magazine. Thank you for all that you do lisa m.

Hi Shira and Brian, Well.....another Backroads riding season is over. Thank you Brian and Shira for inviting us to share our country’s backroads. It is an exhilarating experience. To all our Backroads family, we shall miss you over the winter to come.

We wish you a Bountiful Thanksgiving, Merry Christmas, Happy Chanukah, Buon Natale, Feliz Navidad y Prospero Año Nuevo and a Healthy 2020.

All our best always. Hopefully see all y’all at Spring Break 2020. alma and david Wilson Continued on Page 11

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NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

IN DU STRY INFOBITES

News from the Inside

AIMEXPO REPORT For many years the powersports industry has talked about working together because we are stronger when united. And it was the express purpose of AIMExpo to facilitate this unity. It provides a platform for dealers, OEMs, distributors, aftermarket manufacturers, media and consumers to talk together and work towards progressing the industry forward.

By taking this initiative, the show was able to provide a unique forum for dealers to communicate with the OEMs and distributors as well as parts suppliers and, uniquely for a trade show, interact with consumers during the public show days. Similarly, the powersports manufacturers and parts suppliers are able to meet their existing dealers and discover new ones.

More importantly, in addition to face-to-face meetings on the show floor, AIMExpo gives dealers access to the newest products on the market along with education and dealer development seminars deigned to make business stronger and more profitable. There were also numerous opportunities to meet industry leaders and peers in meaningful interactions that can open the door to many future opportunities.

“Coming together as a group gives us the opportunity to better understand and overcome the challenges that are impacting our business.

It gives us the ability to adapt, overcome and, with a united front, grow the powersports industry,” said Bill Jenkins, MIC Board member and senior VP sales & operations, Kawasaki Motors Corp. U.S.A. His powerful message was echoed by Cinnamon Kernes, vice president & general manager, MIC Events: “The industry needs a single place to come together – to share ideas, to collaborate, to communicate and be inspired. When an industry comes together, it moves forward

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As they said many times during the two days we were there: Together We Rise!

AVON TYRES HELPS TO PROMOTE VINCENT MOTORCYCLE STORY Avon Tyres today announced it is working with the team behind the upcoming documentary, SpeedisExpensive: The Untold Story of the Vincent Motorcycle, to produce a series of taster videos for fans.

Now in post-production, the documentary has been directed by David Lancaster, who previously worked on the BBC automotive series Top Gear, and promises to lift the lid on the dramatic untold story of the famous Vincent HRD brand.

Avon has partnered with the film’s producers to create a series of four sneak peek stories, which will be posted across Avon Tyres’ social media channels leading up to the film’s release.

Avon Tyres was the tyre manufacturer of choice for Vincent Motorcycles throughout its existence and still produces tyres for the iconic bikes. Avon’s range of classic motorcycle products includes the Speedmaster MKII, Safety Mileage MKII (in A, B and C tread options) and the Sidecar Triple Duty.

SpeedisExpensive follows Philip Vincent-Day, the 26-year-old Continued on Page 12

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2019 on The mark

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their moto adventure bona fides too. I would be more pleased if Mosko did their sewing in-house, but nobody’s perfect and it’s hard to find that kind of sewing expertise domestically these days. I didn’t talk to them on the phone, but their web site is excellent.

For full disclosure, neither of these companies offered me anything in exchange for these mentions in my column, nor did I even mention it to them. I am looking forward to being able to offer you an unvarnished opinion of the racks and bags without feeling beholden to anyone. As for the old racks and bags, if you have a hammer, a riveter, a welder, and the time and inclination, they are yours for the inconvenience of picking them up. You’re going to need to buy dry bags for them, but I’ll throw in the stickers for free.

PosTCards From The hedge

Continued from Page 5

There are two factors at play with pulling over and stopping, and one is a very important. Whenever you pull over, there are risks involved. Even if there’s a decent shoulder, there’s always the chance that some idiot who’s drunk, texting, sampling an impossible burger or all three can swerve and end your adventure. Look at all the police officers, with patrol autos festooned with all manner of lights, and people STILL plow into them when they’re on the side of the road lit up like a Christmas tree. It’s crazy, but if you’re going to check the motorcycle you need to pull off well away from danger. Better yet, get off the road and park behind something huge, heavy and protective like an Airbus A380 if one is handy. The other factor on whether or not you should pull over and check things is totally human nature in origin, and it’s that weird disease many of us suffer from where we don’t like to stop between scheduled waypoints no matter what. I’ve been with some riders who won’t divert off the set course unless the bike is on fire, provided they can’t put out the blaze while moving, of course. This needs to be overcome, if you want to make sure that weird

sensation is just your own particular interpretation of some sort of nondangerous sensory input. But ultimately, you have to decide if the gremlin in the day/night is but a phantom or a real concern. Halloween may come and go, be the spectres of the mechanical world don’t read calendars or sleep.

BaCklash

Continued from Page 9

Brian and Shira, Just wanted to say thanks again for introducing me to CLASS. I had a great time and feel I have learned so much more than the first time I was there. Reg and Gigi are great, as are all the instructors.

I wish more riders from the Backroads family would take advantage of going to CLASS. On another note you might want to consider doing a story on checking over your motorcycle before going on a 1,000 mile plus trip. Running “Baldini” tires on the twisties is never a good idea. mike mosca Wanted to let you know I enjoyed the Yamaha article in the last issue. I have owned more Yamahas of the two-wheeled variety than any other make. It started in mid-seventies with a Moto-Bike.

Anyway, the logo speaks volumes of the corporate culture- Three Tuning Forks. Here’s the history from their corporate page: https://www.yamaha.com/en/about/history/logo/ Tony lisanti Hi Shira!!

Thank you so much for sending us the September Issue of your Backroads Magazine. We are so grateful that you mentioned us in your article. We appreciate the support and hope to see you next year.

In the meantime, we wish you all the best.

Kindest Regards, monica Cedeño-hamway • orchard View lavender Farm

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NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS Continued from Page 10

grandson of Vincent, who never met his grandfather, as he embarks on a journey to learn more about his forebear’s amazing life and machines. He talks to the men and women who built the bikes, as well as racers, friends and family. Famous names such as World Champion motorcycle rider John Surtees, TV star Jay Leno and West Coast legend Marty Dickerson also feature.

Michiel Kramer, Marketing Director, Avon Tyres, said, “It is a great pleasure to join forces with the team behind the new SpeedisExpensive documentary. Avon Tyres has forged so many exciting partnerships over the years and we will always hold fond memories of our time with Vincent Motorcycles. We look forward to sharing some of the stories from the documentary with a wider audience.”

For more info about Avon Tyres, go to www.avontyres.com. For more info on SpeedisExpensive go to speedisexpensive.com.

BOTH NEW AND OLD RETURN TO BARBER MUSEUM On the opening day of AIMExpo in Columbus, Ohio, Suzuki Motor of America, Inc. presented the Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum with a new 2020 KATANA sport motorcycle. The presentation coincided with Suzuki’s return of an original 1982 GSX1100S Katana which the company had borrowed from the museum to support the new version’s U.S. arrival.

“It’s been an honor having Barber’s 1982 Katana with us for the yearlong celebration of the new KATANA,” said Kerry Graeber, Suzuki’s Vice President of Sales and Marketing. “The original Katana truly is a legend in motorcycle history and set the stage for modern design, technology, and performance. Being able to showcase a pristine, perfect Katana alongside the all-new model was an idea we had and we greatly appreciate that our friends at the Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum helped us achieve that vision.” Graeber added that hundreds of thousands of enthusiasts have seen the two bikes together since they debuted at the Long Beach International Motorcycle Show last November.

Suzuki also showed the new model in Solid Black for the first time in the U.S. showcasing its bold and significant styling. Both colorways will be available in dealers this November at an MSRP of $13,499.

WPS AND SPECTRO OILS WORK TOGETHER Western Power Sports is proud to announce a new distribution agreement with Spectro Performance Oils. Spectro is a third generation, family owned and operated manufacturer located in Brookfield, Connecticut USA. Spectro, led by their signature black and gold bottles, now manufactures the largest selection of powersports oils, lubricants and fluids in the industry.

“We are extremely thrilled to be partnering with a distributor of their (WPS) caliber,” said Spectro President, Alex Josefson. “Adding WPS to our list of distributors is invaluable and we know we will be distributing our products with a like-minded company, one who values supporting the motorcycle industry as we do.”

100% TARIFFS ON EUROPEAN UNION POWERSPORTS PRODUCTS AVOIDED Proposed tariffs of up to 100% on motorcycles, parts, and accessories coming from the EU countries, have been staved off after the MIC and member manufacturers KTM, Indian Motorcycles, Cobra and Ducati testified before, and submitted written comments to, the Office of the US Trade Representative. In a show of transcontinental industry support, ACEM, the European Assoc. of Motorcycle Manufacturers, also submitted written arguments against the proposed tariffs.

The proposed tariffs, that would have greatly affected the powersports business, came about as part of a dispute regarding certain EU countries subsidizing their large-aircraft manufacturing sector.

“Had the tariffs been enacted, that would have meant extremely high prices for our American consumers of European motorcycles, parts, and accessories,” said Erik Pritchard, incoming MIC president and CEO. “Increased costs would have even discouraged motorcycle riders from performing routine but critical maintenance, such as brake pad and tire replacements, due to potential doubling on the price of parts.”

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2019

PRODUCT REVIEW

Page 13

MICHELIN ANAKEE ADVENTURE TIRES

The ADV market is one of the few in the industry that is in a big upswing.

There are few tire manufacturers that do not offer something for this once small niche market.

Earlier this year we got a press release from Michelin Tires about a new version of their Anakee tire. We have had plenty of experience with the Anakee brand. So, it really came as no surprise when Michelin released this tire, which sits nicely between the Anakee III, a strong street-based tire and their Wild, a more dirt-based tire.

Although many of today’s riders of adventure-style machines – BMW GS, KTM, Triumph Tigers and the like - head into the wild without a care, many others only hit the occasional gravel road using their bikes as just all-around fun machines. Many of us fall somewhere in the middle.

Like Goldilocks one tire is to street, the other to dirt – so now we have the Anakee Adventure.

Traction versus mileage?

For us it has always been about traction. We’d easily give up a few thousand miles of wear for a bunch more stickiness during the time the tires du jour were on the machine.

For years tires have offered one over the other.

Michelin has led the way in so many tire innovations and with the Adventure Michelin was looking for that magic combination of traction AND good mileage.

The Adventure uses a dual compound in the front tire, which Michelin calls the 2CT, but the rear is special and made with a hard compound in the center and softer at the edges. But the softer edges have the same harder compound beneath it.

This different and exclusive way of building the rear offers the bike a great feel of transition as it is leaned over – the softer rubber biting a bit harder on the pavement, while the center offers a far longer mileage down the road.

With its unique tread pattern, we were intrigued and looked forward to getting a set of these tires for a long-term test.

In early June, we spooned on a set of Anakee Adventure tires on a GS and packed up the bike. From day one the tire, that Michelin feels is one of their strongest offerings to date, got into the thick of things and did a few hundred mile in a torrential rain, along small roads and large and very busy interstates.

Brand new tires on slick, oily roads surrounded by giant semis?

Not my idea of the perfect scenario… but the Anakees were brilliant.

We were told they were an excellent rain tire and that was very apparent.

The next day cleared up and we got into some serious fun, hitting all the tiniest and curviest tarmac we could find through West Virginia, Kentucky and into Tennessee.

Long, but fun, 400-mile days – every day.

All technical, all a mix of great pavement, horrible asphalt, gravel and a few miles of stony tiny baby heads tossed in for fun.

The Anakee Adventure tires rock!

Only once, in the rain after hitting a white line, did I get some rear end slide, which hooked up cleanly a spilt second later back on black top. Not even a puckering moment.

Those inevitable gravel roads got easily gobbled up. The mountain roads of Kentucky, and West Virginia were taken at speed and with confidence.

We were so impressed that Shira put a pair onto her Suzuki V-Strom 650XT her next go around.

I have over 7,000 miles on the Michelin Anakeee Adventure tires and they are only now beginning to show their age - far greater mileage than we have gotten from any other adv-style rubber.

The new Anakee Adventure looked to be what most riders of Adventure machines would be looking for.

Traction, mileage – and, most of all, confidence… and isn’t that we really want from a tire?

Log onto motorcycle.michelinman.com for more information.

Page 14

NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN

tasty places to take your bike

CaFé adella dori 33 loWer main sT, CalliCoon, ny 12723 845-887-3081 • www.adelladori.net Some of the terrific eateries I’ve come across have been in the least likely of places, and discovered mostly by chance or blind luck. One such find is Café Adella Dori in the hamlet of Callicoon NY. A few years back, several friends and I planned to ride together to a Concours Owners Group weekend gathering in Wellsboro, PA. We reside spread apart from one another and plan to rendezvous somewhere we can fill up on food and fuel.

The Upper Delaware region works well for our trip planning to cross into PA as it puts us north enough to avoid Scranton and gets us onto some nice back roads. From a previous trip several years before, we knew there was gas station in Callicoon just before crossing the Delaware River into Pennsylvania.

The rendezvous planning was almost complete. All we needed was a place to grab a late breakfast. We took to the web in search of a coffee house or small café that has breakfast options in a close radius of our fuel stop. The internet delivered and we set our sights on the recently opened Café Adella Dori. I’m a sucker for a good story, and their web site provided some history where I learned that the café’s proprietor is local entrepreneur Eva Barnett, who named her restaurant after her grandmother Adella, and mother Dori. Adella emigrated from Hungary, and brought with her a love of cooking and baking that she passed on to her daughter and granddaughter. This reminded me of my grandmother’s Hungarian roots and the wonderful traditional and

cultural foods I grew up enjoying. I had to check this place out.

The ride getting to Callicoon is fantastic. Who can complain about riding through Hawks Nest and north along the Delaware Scenic Byway. There were few others out on Route 97 this early weekday morning and we were able to enjoy a brisk pace through the twisties, and all the way to Callicoon.

The café is located on the hamlet’s Lower Main St, across the street and not too far from the old train depot. The interior is small, but it is comfortable and cozy. We grabbed a few tables along the wall, ditched our gear and made our way up to the counter to order.

There is a large chalkboard menu on the wall behind the counter.

Next to the counter is a large display case of incredibly tasty looking

accommodations available six newly renovated rooms

PLENTY OF ROOM FOR GROUPS

Bar • lunch • dinner At the intersection of Great Homemade Meals and Beautiful Backroads

Breakfast Every Sunday 9am-1pm Tues 4-10pm • Wed-Sat 11am-10pm • Sun. 9am-9pm

RivertonHotelandRestaurant

The riverton hotel and restaurant At Belvidere-Riverton Free Bridge, Riverton, PA

610-498-4241 • www.rivertonhotel.com

Member of

house made quiche, sconces, muffins, cookies, and more… they also have some gluten free items. Their menu includes hot and cold coffees and teas. Many of their food items are sourced from local farms. That morning I opted for the Bacony Biscuit and coffee, which was excellent. Our visit there was short as we had to mount our steeds and continue our trip.

Fast forward to Spring 2019 when I had a chance to visit this area again. We were spending a few days at the Best Western Inn in Matamoras PA riding around northern Jersey, the Catskills, and Upper Delaware region. On Saturday morning a few of us decided to use the GPS to navigate a shortest route along the western side of the river,

Page 15

trying to take many of the off the beaten path roads that run close to the river’s edge. We headed north on Routes 434 and 590 from Greeley to Lackawaxen where we began following the Delaware River north. Be warned that many of the roads close to the river are unpaved, and after a while we ventured a bit west to find better roads. At the intersection with Route 371 we decided to head east and cross the river to Cochecton, NY and Route 97 north.

We arrived in Callicoon and Café Adella Dori shortly before noon, and very ready to eat lunch and quench my thirst. I enjoyed a fresh brewed iced tea while waiting for my sandwich. The chicken salad was different and one of the best I have tasted. It was served on housemade croissant with arugula and small side spring salad. Other lunch options include a Prosciutto sandwich, black eyed pea and mushroom burger served in a housemade pita with chutney, pea shoots and spicy tahini, spinach salad with fresh mozarella and the great standby of grilled cheese with your choice of gouda or cheddar.

After a delicious and relaxing lunch, we headed south on Route 97 and stopped at one of the pull overs to watch riders and drivers ripping through the curves in Hawks Nest before beginning the final legs of our ride.

You can visit Monday, Thursday and Friday from 8am to 3pm and Friday and Saturday from 8am to 4pm. Breakfast is served all day and lunch starts at 11am. Check for seasonal hours and closings. ~ Steve Smith

Route 739 • Dingmans Ferry, PA • 570.828.1920

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2019

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NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

Frontline Eurosports Presents

BIG CITY GETAWAY WolF Creek indian Village 6394 norTh sCeniC highWay, BasTian, Va 24314 276-688-3438 • www.indianvillage.org/ hours: monday-saturday 9am-5pm • Closed sunday

How Modern Expansion Saved the Past We often hear how rampant expansion is crushing our nation’s heritage, flavor and lifestyle. But, on occasion, expansion has uncovered and saved history that would have been lost to time forever.

Such is the case outside Bastian, Virginia.

From the story we heard this began with a farmer named Brown Johnston who owned the land years back. While working his land, along Wolf Creek, he unearthed what looked to be human remains.

Knowing these remains were very old, and probably of native American origin, he carefully put them back and kept it to himself – no wanting to create a stir on his land if he could avoid it.

Let’s jump forward a good number of years…

In 1970, the state of Virginia was beginning construction of Interstate 77. The original plan called for a part of Wolf Creek to be diverted and this site would be destroyed during the building of the highway.

It was then that a family member, Wayne Richardson, came forth and told farmer Johnston’s story of the remains to the state and the thought that much more history could be there, right under their feet.

Virginia’s leading archaeologist, Howard McCord, was called in and the highway construction was put on hold for a brief month while McCord and his team took a good close look; hardly enough time for a thorough dig.

It was the first official state-recognized archaeology site (State

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind #44BD1) in Bland County and was named for Brown Johnston.

The archaeological techniques were hurried because of the short window of time allowed for the site survey. Road graders were used to remove the upper levels of dirt, and work was done in the evenings by turning car headlights toward the areas that were worked and examined.

The team only had a month but what they found was remarkable. They discovered eleven skeletons, the remains of eleven circular buildings or wigwams, some storage huts and fire pits.

The Interstate was redesigned to run around the site and plans were made to reconstruct this lost settlement. Progress had brought forth progress.

It took a few decades but between 1992 and 1996, a reconstruction of the village was com-

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2019

Page 17

pleted near the original site. The life-sized reconstruction is based on the post hole pits, postal stain and post molds that were uncovered during the survey, which indicated a palisaded enclosure and some dozen circular buildings. Several Native American graves of various ages and genders were also discovered, some placed inside the palisades, and some placed outside the enclosure. These gravesites are accurately positioned and marked in the reconstructed village, along with a description of the burial position and any grave goods also discovered.

From the archaeological site map and earlier survey, attempts were made to make it as authentic a reconstruction as possible. “Using the archaeology map, we have pole for pole and feature for feature recreated the village... “ In October 1998, the conventional museum building opened. In 2014, the County of Bland assumed operations of the museum and continues to rebuild the village.

We came upon the Wolf Creek Indian Village by chance, spotting a sign while fueling our bikes during the Backroads Fall Fiesta Rally.

We try to never pass up a great historical chance and were glad we made time to seek out both the museum and the village.

The Wolf Creek Museum has a great many displays on Virginia’s First People and other tribes around North America as well.

We took the short walk down to the creek and the recreated village and fell into a group of school kids and simply followed them around while the guides told them the story, bits of knowledge and gave them a finer understanding of Native American life back in the early 1500s, which is when they believed the settlement was at its peak. They do not know to which tribe these people belonged, as many tribes moved with the seasons, climatic change and the hunting.

We were very impressed with the phenomenal job Bland County has done with this wonderfully exciting find and it is well worth seeking out.

You will find the Wolf Creek Indian Museum & Village right off I-77 at Route 55 – just north of the Love Fuel Station.

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NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

WE’RE OUTTA HER E The WashingTon house 136 n main sT, sellersVille, Pa 18960 215-257-3000 • www.washingtonhouse.net/ Located just west of the Delaware River, north of Philadelphia and south of the town of Bethlehem you will pass the town of Sellersville, Pennsylvania.

A lot of things have passed through this town since it was first found back in the early 18th century including the Liberty Bell that came through on a wagon, buried deep in hay and heavily guarded, on its way to an Allentown church where it was hidden under the floorboards, until the war was over.

Sellers Tavern, as it was known then, slowly began to grow and adopted the name Sellersville. A small creek ran through the town at the time and that was dammed in the early 20th century creating a small body of water known as Lake Lenape. Along the length of the lake, a park was built on Perkasie and Sellersville lands. In the 1920s and 1930s, this park housed a carousel, a roller coaster, and several other amusements. The railroad brought hundreds of people from Philadelphia in the summertime, and it became a well-known vacation spot for blue-collar city workers. The town was also home to the Radium Company of America, which was the largest uranium milling facility in the world at the time. A business operating under the name of the United States Gauge Company originated in Sellersville in 1904 and allegedly became a prominent manufacturer of gauges for military use, many of which were coated with radium-based paint for nighttime luminescence. The company later became instrumental in the production of nuclear weapons.

But, that was then and this is now.

Sellersville today is a neat little town and well worth aiming for when looking for something just a bit different and, we promise, a

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads weekend spent at The Washington House will be a full one indeed.

What would become The Washington House was the first to obtain a tavern license somewhere back in the mid1800s. The building itself was and is impressive. The walls are 22-inches thick and its iconic Tower Observatory still shines and add a unique flair and touch to the hotel today.

But still, the history of the hotel is worthy of seeking out.

The long bar found there today is not the original as, during the 1920s Prohibition went into effect, but the liquor was still served at The Washington House with the help of hiding places.

Eventually, federal agents, knowing something was up, but unable to find out what simply took the original wooden bar outside and destroyed it.

Thankfully, in 1933, Prohibition was repealed and the new bar was hand-carved by local craftsman J. R. Newbold, whose name is inscribed behind it.

Years before a huge stable was built next door to board horses belonging to patrons of The Washington House. Today this building is Sellersville Theater 1894.

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2019

In 2016 The Washington House underwent a huge restoration, allowing for a wonderful mix of colonial and modern. Yesterday and today.

The end result is most impressive.

Eleven beautiful rooms, found in different sizes and at reasonable prices ($150 on up). Large and very comfortable – you will find exposed brick and stone walls, some with sitting rooms, large open bathrooms and very, very comfortable beds.

The large sitting room at the top of the stairs is always open and coffee could be found at 5:30 Am – God Bless Them!!!

Downstairs the Washington House’s restaurant is known as one of the region’s best and, with the bikes parked, having a drink at their beautiful and very long historic bar might be an excellent idea.

The restaurant has a number of dining rooms and we found the menu to have plenty from which to choose - plus the specials of the day – that were just that.

Right next door, at the Sellersville Theatre, you will find top-notch shows and entertainment.

When we arrived on a Saturday afternoon we found a parking spot reserved for us (all hotel guests get this) and that comedian Rita Rudner would be performing two shows that night. Who doesn’t like a good laugh? So, we bought tickets to the 9 pm show and settled into the spacious King Suite.

Showered and refreshed we had a drink at the bar and then dinner, before strolling over to see Ms. Rudner – who was very funny!

Do you want to know another great thing about a place like The Washington House? You have a very comfortable room, early pre-dawn coffee, historic bar, fantabulous restaurant, a show and then… late evening dessert!

Amen brothers and sisters.

The Washington House and the Sellersville Theatre 1894 are well worth seeking out. The surrounding roads of Bucks County, Pennsylvania can be both fun and, occasionally, challenging and there is plenty to see and do in the region.

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NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTER IOU S A MERICA CasTillo de san marCos, sT. augusTine, Florida AmeRicA’s invincible FoRT Early in the 18th century, a giant power struggle was happening between England and Spain. These countries seemed to be going at it for years, starting with little sea-born skirmishes and then the AngloSpanish War in the late 1500s.

This war, like so many other struggles and mayhem, was caused by religion. England had turned Protestant and Spain, devoutly Catholic.

King Philip II of Spain decided to Protestant heresy from Europe and restore Catholicism. Silly reason to go to war, but we still use this excuse today, right?

By the early 1700s the battle between the two, then superpowers would move across the Atlantic to the New World.

England had control of the northern part of what would become the United States and Spain was trying to hold onto the islands and Florida.

Saint Augustine was a Spanish stronghold, protected by the massive Castillo de San Marcos.

The fort was built specifically to guard the small city and help ensure the Spanish trade routes.

The British wanted this settlement badly, so in 1702, a small armada of British War Ships sailed to Saint Augustine, led by Carolina’s governor James Moore. As the Spanish watched, almost helpless as they had no ships at the time to go to sea and bring the battle into the Atlantic, the English dropped anchor and began firing hundreds of cannonballs at the fort.

Here is where things get a bit strange and mysterious.

For nearly two months the British rained in iron balls. But, to no real effect on the mighty walls of Castillo de San Marcos.

The odd part was how the fort appeared not only unaffected by the barrage but seemed to be swallowing the cannonballs up.

Normally the impact would cause radial cracks and eventually, the wall would breach and begin to collapse. Not the case here at Castillo de San Marcos.

According to historian Susan Parker of St. Augustine’s Flagler College, “The English took over the town but they were never able to take the fort. So, they burned most of the town as they left.”

The British returned decades later during the War of Jenkin’s Ear conflict and gave it their best shot once again. And, once again, failed to breach the massive walls.

How could this be? How could months of bombardment from the mightiest war fleet on the planet have no effect on this particular fort?

Well, let’s look at what Castillo de San Marcos is made from.

The rock used to build this seemingly invincible fortress is called coquina – basically, sedimentary rock formed from compressed shells of dead marine organisms.

Rather than shatter, the material gives

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Page 21

way and absorbed the shock and awe of the incoming balls.

As one Englishman described it, the rock “will not splinter but will give way to cannonballs as though you would stick a knife into cheese.”

Castillo San Marcos is the oldest masonry fort in the U.S. and one of only two such structures in the world made with coquina. During its active life, it was never forcibly captured, thanks in part to its unusual construction material. It was taken off the fortifications list in 1900 and became a U.S. National Monument in 1924.

Recently a team of scientists shot steel balls at core samples of coquina, filming them with high-speed cameras shooting 200,000 images per second to see exactly how this stone was able to withstand such repeated impacts.

What they found was that coquina actually absorbs the ball’s impact; the material that was crushed by the impact allowed for dissipation of the energy and the coquina’s unique make-up allowed it to almost heal itself. This stems from the fact that this rock is not formed like other stone, but made up of thousands of tiny particles and not bonded as one but, rather, crushed and compressed for thousands of years. This allows the coquina to actually shift and shuffle on a microscopic level. Although there is no proof that the Spanish knew that coquina had such miraculous talent, when they quarried the stone from a quarry within what is today Anastasia State Park; but they did learn very quickly.

At this point, the Department of Defense and scientists are studying coquina’s impact absorbing properties and perhaps it will lead to better and safer materials for the military and perhaps riders as well – Maybe someday our helmets will be made of stone? ~ O’Life Out!

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Signs, signs, everywhere a sign Blockin’ out the scenery, breakin’ my mind Do this, don’t do that, can’t you read the sign?

Five Man Electrical Band Day I • The Ramapo 500

S

ome of the best days on the road are when you stop for the mandatory coffee and ice cream and you have no real idea where you are.

Sure, you know where you started, you might even know where you should end the day, but in the middle of the day, you are clueless to any exactification of your actual location.

Such was the case when we followed Shira’s route on a beautiful sunny Sunday in mid-July. We had started the weekend off joining in on the 43rd Ramapo 500 – the region’s premier road tour.

We knew from the get-go we’d not be with them for the entire 500+ miles, but we did a solid part of it and have to say that Ramapo, and Claudia in particular, did a stellar job of stitching together some of the most scenic and enjoyable roads in the Catskills – with a bit of Pennsylvania and New Jersey added in for the fun of it.

For me, what I have always loved about the Ramapo 500 is that even in our own backyard, they’ll throw a road at us and we say... “Hmmm, where did that one come from?”

NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2019

It just goes to show you that the Allman Brothers were right when they sang the “road goes on forever!” Even when that road has the first of several “warning” signs we’d come across over the next few days.

Dangerous Winding Road. Excellent in every way! Good choice on Ramapo’s part – they’d even use it in the other direction the next day.

Without giving too much away the ride did wind its way up and into the Catskills and, while scooting through a part of Sullivan County, we spied a sign at the back of a parking lot for the Time and the Valleys Museum. We’re always on the lookout for interesting stops, especially when they celebrate a region’s history – and this museum certainly fit the bill. Three stories full of the his-

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tory of this part of the Catskills, from ancient geological and native tribes to the coming of the Europeans and even a spectacular floor dedicated to the water/land grab that created the famed reservoirs that keep New York City wet.

This Saturday night ended up at the familiar Blackthorne Resort in the Irish Catskills. Things all seemed to go smoothly, with one or two incidents along the way (expected when you have a few hundred riders on unfamiliar turf), but nothing major.

Well, not until our friends Gigi and Jerry parked their bikes at the resort. As they walked away from the bikes a golf cart came around the turn on two wheels, the driver target fixated on Gigi’s BMW and proceeded to monster truck the bike with the golf cart – and never spilled a drop of his beer either. That’s talent.

Drunker than a skunk I was told, which I took offense to, as skunks are really dynamite creatures and really never imbibe at all, if ever.

State Troopers were called and cuffs were produced and skunky boy taken away. Poor Gigi, but better her bike than her too. Gigi, we promise you ice cream on our next adventure!

It always seems to be a great gathering of riders here each year at the 500. And, I do mean riders – real riders, not just somebody that has a motorcycle and rides it every now and again.

These guys and gals have come to enjoy what motorcycling is really about.

Exploring around that turn, over that hill, and beyond the horizon and the Ramapo Motorcycle Club has been doing that with the 500 for over four decades.

We had a great time and

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NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

Day II • The Fingers Lakes

it was good to see old friends, make new ones and hang out in such a two-wheeled atmosphere.

Shira and I had taken a hotel, just about a half-mile away, called McGraths Edgewood Falls. Truth be told, ‘tis a bit of Ireland for sure. Nice clean and comfortable rooms, good shower and awesome towels.

We had checked in earlier before heading over to the 500, but after dinner and awards were given out, we moseyed on back to McGrath’s and headed to the pub where they were having a weekend-long 24/7 Irish Rebel Music Festival.

Superb musicians, great Irish flair, great people and more than just a little bashing of Margaret Thatcher and the British.

Along one wall of the pub was an Irish directional sign for the town of Cong, where they filmed the John Ford classic ‘The Quiet Man’.

One of my favorite films of all time - enough so that Shira and I have traveled to Cong twice already.

We made it an early night, but the Irish kept at it for a long time – it is their way.

Still, our hotel room was nice, quiet and with a very comfortable bed and plenty of pillows. Nice, after a long day on the road.

We dropped by the 500 around 8’ish, only to see our friends leaving as we arrived – everybody looking to get a quick start on this Sunday morning.

We followed along with Ramapo’s route for a bit, joyfully backtracking along the Dangerous Winding Road and near Gilboa, where the route continued south, we vectored west.

Shira had put this route together the week before, wanting to follow along with as much of the 500 as she could, but we had dinner plans far to the west that night, in the city of Ithaca, at the bottom of Lake Cayuga – one of New York’s sterling Finger Lakes.

Shira doesn’t realize yet, but she became a Road Whisperer long ago. A Road Whisperer is a person who, when making a route, instinctively follows natural terrain, hills, and valleys, streams and rivers and old abandon railroad tracks.

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2019

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And, that is exactly what we got this day as her ride followed all But then her route headed up a tightly wooded lane and the pavethese and more as we meandered west through the core of the Empire ment faded away and yet another sign appeared - Seasonal Limited State.

Use Highway!

As we moved west through the Catskills, we wandered up and down Ahh, the required miles of hard pack gravel – I knew she would passes and forests and coming around one bend, with a rocky cliff to come through. one side and long cornfield to the other, we spotted another unique sign.

Slow Down Stupid!

It looked official, but we were fairly sure that somebody just did a very slick job when it came to protecting their kids at play.

It was right about then that the route or, more to the point, our ability to follow the route went sideways and we found ourselves a bit off-course. We had to improvise some to see where we went wrong and it was along the lines of ‘Ground Hog Day,’ as we rode down the same road we had just come up again.

Mistake corrected we headed through the Leatherstocking Region, finding many small rivers and large streams with single-lane bridges – most of them guarded by signs that cautioned - Warning Road Closed Due to Flooding.

The day was brilliant and, for once, we had no flooding issues and were able to pass easily.

Not too long after that we rolled into the point where this story began: Me wondering where we were exactly and Shira finding a brilliant place for 1269 DOLSONTOWN RD coffee and ice cream.

She does have a MIDDLETOWN NY 10940 knack for this.

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Although stunningly beautiful, I For every rider - on or off road, whether they like doing it have always found in the dirt, carving the twisties, or cruising the backroads, we have their weapon of choice. the riding here to be a bit ho-hum, with lots of straight long roads stitching together the various towns and hamlets that you find along the shores of these long lakes carved by the retreating glacial ice fields, some 10,000 years ago.

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NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

I suddenly heard Dr. Seuss reciting his Seussy poetry…

Some do not like gravel at all It makes me nervous I might just fall But the bike is still upright Maybe it is me that is uptight The dark woods, the rivers and then streams Riding the gravel road is how they are seen So do not fret, do not fear Keep that bike in a happy gear…

By late afternoon we rolled around Ithaca, New York and just a bit north to the town of Lansing where we had booked a room at the very cool Rogues Harbor Inn. This place was built back in the 1800s by Daniel Minier, a career military man, who fought in the War of 1812 and retired a major general.

The stately four-story brick building has seen more than its share of history and local happenings and was far better than anything Hilton or Best Western could ever hope to provide.

If these 15-inch thick brick walls could talk!

We talked with Eileen, the owner, for a bit on the building’s deep history and made ourselves at home and set about exploring the old place that is quickly coming back into its own with a restaurant and brewery next door.

The brew pub led to the idea of leaving the bikes at home and we Ubered into Ithaca and strolled around The Commons, a large avenue closed off to traffic and full of restaurants, shops and the Carl Sagan Solar System walk.

We found an Old Man’s-style dive bar and had the required one game of pool (Shira scratched on the eight-ball – waa, waa!) and then found a bite to eat, along The Commons, before scooting back up the lake and the Rogues Harbor Inn for the rest of the night.

Day III • Hey, was that a sign?

The day started cool and clear, and, after a very comfortable night, we had coffee on the lawn as Eileen whipped up a superb breakfast – fueling us up for the day.

While in and around the Finger Lakes, we highly recommend The Rogues Harbor - history and comfort all rolled into one.

We are very familiar with this region. Shira and her family summered here when she was a child and there have been several Backroads’ Rallies up this way over the last two decades. So, we thought we would mix up some old and some new and see if there was anything else to discover along the Finger Lakes of New York.

We knew there would be.

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2019

The night before I spotted a tee-shirt that said: “Ithaca is 10 Square Miles Surrounded By Reality.”

If you have never journeyed around this part of New York I would go a bit further and say the entire region has some unworldly beauty and maybe a step away from the rest of the Empire State.

The gorges, waterfalls, and lakes themselves make for one amazing scene and vista after another.

We have a few that we always try to see – Robert Treman State Park is on that short list. The view from the upper part of the park is truly one of the most amazing things in the northeast, but the swimming pool at the bottom of Lucifer Falls is striking as well.

Our thought is two leave one bike down below, ride two-up to the top and walk the long, winding and stupendously beautiful trail through the gorge back down – and then dive in! See? Like Robert Palmer sang – We want the best of both worlds!

Mission accomplished we rode north along some of the more interesting ridge roads to another spectacular cascade.

Taughannock Falls plunges 215 feet past rocky cliffs that tower nearly 400 feet above the gorge. The view from the top is amazing and well worth visiting year-round as the look and feel of the park changes with the seasons.

There once was a grand hotel here and even a bit

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of Mysterious America as there was a discovery when the hotel was being worked on that changed science and history.

Well, for a little while anyway.

Workers excavating around the hotel discovered the body of a seven-foot man, a giant man of stone. His hands were crossed over his right thigh, while the left leg lay over the right, which was bent up toward the body. Around his neck grew the roots of a nearby tree.

Cornell University itself agreed this was the real deal.

But, like the Cardiff Giant at Cooperstown, the big man was an elaborate hoax – But we’ll let O’Life tell you the rest of the story in some other edition.

Heading out we chose to ignore the GPS and followed our noses along some neat and twisty backroads – as twisty can sometimes be rare around the Finger Lakes and it needs to be searched out.

What seems to be in heavy supply is whimsy.

Folks here are very artistic and when we passed the old MG done

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up in a 60s-style flower-power paint scheme with Mr. Toad and Zorak the Praying Mantis at the wheel it was time for a quick u-turn and digital moment.

A lot of this trip has been about signs. Nobody likes signs more than the Federal Government. Especially big bold Warning and Trespassing Signs.

I was looking for something in particular. Nothing fancy… maybe some white deer, old Army base… a stash of thermonuclear weapons… you know, the usual stuff.

We found our way to where I thought we needed to go and then… here came the signs.

‘No Trespassing. No Unauthorized Vehicles Beyond This Point’.

We have made some bad choices, one very bad, when it has come to these US Military and Black Ops sites, so we are cautious when it comes to crossing US

NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

Government – No Trespass signage.

We’d never break the law. Nope. Not gonna happen.

Bend is not break, right.

Hey, we were only talking a few nukes, right? Not really.

According to a New York Times article dated February 8th, 1982…

“On the Seneca County 10,000-acre military reservation, adjacent to Sampson State Park, are clusters of underground bunkers that a major Washington study group says may contain more nuclear warheads than any other base in the United States.”

Holy crap… and now locals complain if it is a bad season for the local grape harvest!

Somewhere on this vast acreage is housed the White Deer Experience, a place making lemonade out of lemons and offering tours of the remains of the U.S. Army’s former weapons storage facility as well as access to the world’s largest herd of white, white-tailed deer.

They keep it pretty well hidden unless you shell out the $30 for the tour.

We were now heading north along Seneca Lake and dropped by a few interesting places along our way.

The Mike Weaver Drain Tile Museum – oh sure, you betcha! How about a little spin into Waterloo, New York. Here’s the thing about Waterloo… it is the home of Memorial Day. Yes, indeedy.

In fact, the first Memorial Day in Waterloo was celebrated on May 5, 1866, although the plans for it may have started in the summer of 1865, just months after the end of the Civil War. It wasn’t until March 7, 1966, 100 years later, that then New York Governor Nelson Rockefeller proclaimed the Seneca County village of Waterloo as the “Birthplace of Memorial Day.” The proclamation said that Waterloo was the place for the “first, formal, complete, well-planned, village-wide observance of the day.

The rest of the nation said… “Yeah, whatever New York… Good idea.”

We continued our ride back into American history with a stop at the Women’s Rights National Historical Park - most fitting as we mark the 100th Anniversary of the 19th Amendment. Passed by Congress June 4, 1919, and ratified on August 18, 1920, the 19th amendment granted women the right to vote.

And, look at you now, ladies… Heading corporations, bringing home the bacon to stay-at-home

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2019

dads, running nations, making science and medical breakthroughs and, most importantly, riding motorcycles. You go girls!

Although Shira was impressed with the museum, I had one more thing for her to see, to ride across and take in. Something I knew would bring out that pretty smile.

Along the barge canal that runs from Cayuga to Seneca Lakes, there is a small steel arch bridge.But, this is not just any small steel arch bridge, but the very one that inspired film director Frank Capra to make ‘It’s A Wonderful Life’, the Christmas holiday favorite starring Jimmy Stewart and Donna Reed. We all know it, but the town of Seneca Falls started the thought burning in Capra, who based the film on the short story ‘The Greatest Gift’, by Philip Van Doren Stern.

The bridge is the real deal and very well placed with the old knitting factory behind it. Signs for Bedford Falls and George Bailey Way can be found as well as a bronze plaque telling the story of how the bridge changed Christmas.

I like it when she gets smiley and happily excited.

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Our plan from here was to head up north a bit and take in the few miles of gravel drive through Montezuma National Wildlife Refuge.

The refuge hosts a plethora of migratory birds as well as a large number of osprey, heron, stork, and bald eagles, many of whom were happy to hang out while we rode around and below them.

Surprisingly the New York State Thruway runs right through the refuge and they make the best of this with a gargantuan bald eagle statue facing the roadway to let passersby see what they are passing.

We have been here many, many times, but this was the first time during the midst of the summer. Like many other wild and natural places – each season has its own look feel and, here at the Montezuma Refuge, avian guests.

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From here we crossed the Erie Canal, something we would do a few times this day. We stooped and watch the lockmaster at #25 raise the water so a boat called The Flying Scotsman could pass to the next level. We called out to the boater, who called back with a heavy Scot’s burr.

I asked why the name and he said he was The Flying Scotsman! I told him I was one too, as I have spent a good deal of time living in Scotland with family as a child.

Well-named boat, my friend.

We then fired up and rode back over the Seneca River, with its own Danger Warning Sign to stay away from the dam (why are so many of these signs simply telling us to use our noodles?) and then scooted east and around Syracuse (we avoid cities when we can) and made a quick stop at the last museum of the day –The Salt Museum. Since civilization began, salt was always a commodity and here on the shores of Onondaga Lake, this museum tells of the industry that, in many ways, created the City of Syracuse and supplied the entire nation with salt, what was then considered one of the country’s most precious commodities.

Very interesting and certainly worth the stop.

From here it was a short run north to the tiny town of Bald-

NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

winsville, New York. We had found a neat inn on a small island nestled between the Seneca River and the Erie Canal. Lock and traveling boats to one-side and waterfalls and fishermen to the other.

It was a longer day than we had anticipated and we were happy that the Red Mill Inn was all we had hoped for, with big rooms, comfy bed and, thankfully, an awesome shower.

We walked the town, found canalside dining and took in the sunset from the point just south of the inn.

It was pretty much Margaritaville.

Day IV • The Ride Home or Is this road closed?

We had been averaging between 200 and 250 miles each day. Always fine in the cool of the morning, but bearish as the summer afternoon poured on the heat and humidity.

From our little canal/river island getaway we headed east and then banked south, the roads quickly taking on a more curvy and fun perspective to them.

The Finger Lakes gave way to the Leatherstocking Region of the state with its mix of rolling farmland, hilly forests and mixed pavement.

We had routed down a road designated Lucky 13, and it was. Twisty, quick to ride and lots of fun with a marvelous pay-off at the end – the fabulous Chittenango Falls.

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2019

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The gorge is made up of bedrock that is over 400 million years old and cascading over the top and plummeting nearly 170 feet are the powerful falls.

We rode into the park and, turning off the bikes, took that morning’s hike.

Okay, this time, I understood the DANGER sign, as this was an extremely steep, rocky, stone stepped hike to the falls.

If you were really into it you could follow, all the way, to the bottom and across the wooden path bridge that offered a superb vantage point of the waterfall.

From here the ride got into more and more rolling hills, and both of us went from riding mode into flying mode. Just a perfect day and route.

We found breakfast at a small diner called the Beaver Den, in West Edmeston. I flew by it, but Shira caught the sign in the corner of her eye, as it was off the road.

Great find. Probably one of the best breakfasts we have had on the road in a long time.

As we continued towards home we rounded one curve in the small town of Bennington Flats and spied a Historical Sign. Sometimes things pop out at you when you see these and this time it was the word ‘baseball!’

We love baseball and it turned out this town was the home of William Hulbert who owned the Chicago White Stockings and was the founder of the National Baseball League. Amazingly, it was not until 1995 that Hulbert was put into the Hall of Fame in Cooperstown, just miles to the south.

Just outside Fly Creek, we made it a point to stop at Bennet Motor Sales. This dealership has been in business for a long time and, unlike a lot of motorcycle shops these days is owned, operated and nurtured by real riders.

Ray and his crew cannot help.it. They have to be in the motorcycle business – it is in their DNA and the trophies and awards show it.

We always enjoy stopping by shops that support the magazine, but we did come here on a mission.

Ray Bennett has a wonderful collection of classic bikes, mostly from Japan, and their one building was amazing in every way.

Kawasaki H1, a Rotary Suzuki (why did they make this?) and Ray’s two-stroke race machine among about two dozen others.

Was that a Honda SL125? Oh, boy. Don’t drool, Brian.

They specialize in rebuilding and restoring these old treasures and if you are looking to breathe new life into something old, classic and in need of it, then call Bennett Motors (www.bennettmotorsales.com) – they know how to help and do amazing work.

Thanks for the tour, Jake!

We had one more planned stop this day. Shira had discovered The Glove Museum and she said she had ‘added’ to the route and would get us there in style.

Yes… indeed. From my manually acquired positioning system, I knew it was three main roads to the town of Dorloo, along Route 165.

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When we went up one small road, only to come down a few miles back to the bigger road, she stopped and played with her GPS. For those who have ridden with her you might know she has a knack for finding little, obscure, not a road, never paved – EVER - by-ways.

When her blinker came on and she banked right up the unpaved road that went, more or less, straight up, I knew we were now entering Shira World.

At a crossroads, there was a sign that gave yet another dire warning.

This one was a double-edged sword.

SEASONAL LIMITED USE HIGHWAY - NO MAINTENANCE DECEMBER 1- APRIL 1 No foolin?

It was mid-July, and the game began when I heard her over the Sena saying… “Uh oh – a grader!” I came around the bend and the big yellow machine had blocked half the road. The operator gave me the stink eye as I stood on the pegs and motored by.

“Ha, no biggey,” I thought, “I have my side of the road to play on.”No, I didn’t, as right around the next bend was another grader on my side.

What the first Earth-machine didn’t pull up the second one did.

NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

Why they are called graders is beyond me, they always seem to be debris strewing, rock uplifting, destroyers of every decent gravel road one was ever operated on.

And, all this was now heading steeply downhill.

Fun, fun, fun, kids!

Shira felt bad – well, a little - at how this detour turned out, but I would do better, or worse, later that day.

The Glove Museum was far more interesting than we could have hoped and owner Daniel Storto is one of the last, real, glovemakers in the country, having a long list of Hollywood productions to his credit.

The museum is located in an old church that is cool beyond measure.

While in this part of New York, The Glove Museum just might fit into your plans perfectly – like a glove!

It was time to vector back to the route, as we really did want to be back home by evening and we still had about 150 miles to go.

We got back onto my route and then, near the Pepacton Reservoir, we spied a detour sign. Road closed in 7 Miles.

Well, la-di-da.

We’d be making a right on Cross Mountain Road in just a mile and a half. I could see Old Cross Mountain Road as we rode past it… heading up the side of the mountain on a launch angle that would send a baseball out of any park in the nation.

I had a bad feeling about this… as Cross Mountain Road was a new one for me.

It might be pay-back time for Shira - not that I had this planned.

Cross Mountain Road rode past the old one and continued, for a good amount of miles, up and down, in and out – many times just one lane wide, mostly a neatly packed clay, but with occasional rough patched that, with the both bikes stuttering, they reminded us that we did not turn off ABS or Traction Control.

Although some street riders and some machines might consider a Plan B here – we happily motored on – looking for momentum and not speed. Control and finesse would win rather than any land speed records for sure.

But, along both these long gravel stretches these days we got to see some part of New York State that you will never see from the paved backroads and certainly not from the New York State Thruway.

Okay, except for the Montezuma Refuge a few hundred miles to the northwest.

Any competent rider can do these if you look where you want to go, stay steady on the throttle and let the bike do its little cha-cha-cha beneath you.

The scenery is worth the effort.

We popped back out near Barkaboom Road, part of the second day of the Ramapo 500 ride and a few hours later we were sailing along the Hawk’s Nest and slipping back into the Garden State and Backroads Central.

It had seemed like we had been on the road for a week or so, but it was just four days; A long weekend for any of us.

From the well-mixed roads of the Ramapo 500, to the deep gorges and high falls of the Finger Lakes and along the historic Erie Canal then down through the happily rideable Leatherstocking region of the state we were reminded why this part of the northeast likes to remind us again and again…that we love New York!

See you on the road!

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2019

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2020 MOTORCYCLE RELEASES

WHAT MIGHT BE COMING TO A GARAGE NEAR YOU 2020 DUCATI MONSTER 1200 S BECOMES “BLACK ON BLACK” Ducati looks to 2020 with the presentation of a new color scheme for the Monster 1200 S. For this coming season, in fact, the most iconic naked will feature a “Black on Black” livery with alternating gloss black and matt black parts. The Monster 1200 S will also remain available in traditional Ducati Red. This all-new color scheme combines two classic Monster hallmarks: sport performance - accentuated by the flash of red on the rims - and sheer style, as brought out by the black. First launched in 1993, the Monster has defined the Sport Naked segment ever since. Today’s version continues to express the very essence of this category to maximum effect.

The Monster 1200 is equipped with an up-to-the-minute Testastretta 11° DS engine, capable of delivering 147 hp at 9,250 rpm and a full yet linear torque curve; that power is safely handled at all times by the Ride by Wire system and inertial platform, which provide ABS Cornering, Traction Control and Wheelie Control functions.

The exclusive S version sharpens that Monster sports performance to an even finer edge thanks to a 48 mm Öhlins fork and rear Öhlins monoshock, both fully adjustable. Awesome braking is provided by two 330 mm Brembo discs at the front working in concert with Brembo M50 monobloc calipers. The Monster 1200 S also features wheels with three Y-spokes, a carbon fibre front mudguard, a headlight characterized by the DRL (Daytime Running Light) and LED indicators. Completing the as-standard equipment is the up & down quickshifter. The Monster 1200 S with the new “Black on Black” livery will be available in USA Ducati dealers at a price of $17,795. www.ducati.com

2020 YAMAHA MT-03 Yamaha has introduced the 2020 MT-03 as an all-new entry-level model in the company’s Hyper Naked motorcycle segment. With its easy-to-ride engine character, lightweight handling, and aggressive styling, the all-new MT-03 fully embodies the signature Yamaha MT (Master of Torque) family design.

The Dark Side of Japan…?

Many see Japan as a traditional and respectful society where conformity is the norm, but behind this stereotypical image lies a vibrant sub-culture where new fashions and ideas are constantly emerging. These same creative forces that drive the darker and unconventional side have inspired and shaped the unique MT motorcycles, giving every rider the chance to experience thrilling torque, outstanding agility and provocative design from the Dark Side of Japan.

With the global introduction of the MT series in 2013, Yamaha clearly showed the intention to create a new type of motorcycle aimed at riders searching for a new way to express themselves.

The Hyper Naked motorcycle segment was quickly developed to grow in range, offering riders the

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NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

chance to step up in experience and performance through the complete MT lineup. The Hyper Naked segment is in constant evolution, as evidenced by the all-new MT-03.

With a radical and aggressive look, the all-new MT-03 hallmarks advanced design and an overall high-quality specification. Equipped with a 321cc liquid-cooled twin-cylinder engine that produces smooth and easy-to-ride power delivery, and optimized suspension settings for precise handling and outstanding agility, it is the ultimate full-sized entry-level motorcycle.

Created using the same DNA that made its 847cc triple-cylinder MT-09 sibling one of the best-selling Yamaha models of all time, the all-new MT-03’s aggressive next-generation design strengthens the iconic MT look. yamahamotorsports.com

2020 HONDA AFRICA TWIN • TWO MACHINES – TWO CHOICES Ever since its inception, Honda’s versatile Africa Twin has presented motorcyclists with unprecedented capability for pavement excitement and off-road adventure. Honda has now introduced the 2020 CRF1100L Africa Twin platform, whose two model versions return with even more ability to take riders anywhere while broadening options for how they can do so.

Both Africa Twin iterations—the standard version and the Adventure Sports ES—are lighter despite receiving a larger, more powerful engine, and they also benefit from a much more advanced suite of electronic rider aids.

The two types diverge in terms of specialization for 2020, with the standard Africa Twin honed to improve sporting and off-road performance, while the Adventure Sports ES benefits from technology to bolster comfort and confidence when tackling long distances.

With an aggressive appearance, enjoyable engine and capable chassis, Honda’s true all-rounder continues to win fans among a broad range of consumers. For 2020, both Africa Twin versions (each of which is still available with either an improved manual transmission or a more advanced version of Honda’s automatic DCT), cram more power and torque into a lighter overall package, maintaining principles that have been intrinsic to the model since day one. The water-cooled, overhead-cam, parallel-twin engine receives an 86cc displacement increase, along with improved intake and exhaust systems, resulting in a horsepower boost of approximately 6 percent. The frame is updated for optimized handling characteristics, the rear subframe now has aluminum construction and is detachable, and the CRF450R-style aluminum swingarm is lighter and more rigid.

A six-axis inertial measurement unit (IMU) makes possible the addition of new rider aids including wheelie control, cornering ABS, rear-lift control, DCT cornering detection and cornering lights, while a new, 6.5-inch thin-film transistor (TFT) color touchscreen display is compatible with Apple CarPlay®. Cruise control is now standard on both Africa Twin versions.

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2019

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Despite sharing improvements, each Africa Twin type maintains an individual role. The standard version has a sharply renewed focus on off-road use, with a shorter, fixed windscreen and a 5.0-gallon fuel tank. Meanwhile, the Adventure Sports ES offers real long-haul ability and practicality, boasting intelligent Showa Electronically Equipped Ride Adjustment suspension tubeless wheels (HUGE!), heated grips, accessory socket, larger skid plate, aluminum rear rack and a 6.5-gallon tank.

The Africa Twin should be in dealers March 2020 with MSRP ranging from $14,399 for basic to $17,999 for ADV Sport SE DCT. Color offerings will be Black Metallic for the Africa Twin and Pearl Glare White/Blue for ADV Sport ES. powersports.honda.com

2020 KAWASAKI NINJA 650 The new Kawasaki Ninja 650 features the tried and true 650cc parallel twin cylinder power plant and new styling, as well as a high-performance chassis and a full suite of state of the art advanced rider support features. What makes the Ninja 650 one of the most well-balanced and exciting motorcycles for a daily commute or an afternoon out on some tight, winding, back roads is the strong parallel twin engine and sporty lightweight chassis, which delivers smooth and agile handling. Developed to offer the ideal blend of sporty performance and everyday versatility for a wide range of riders. The Ninja 650 features sharp, new styling, new LED headlights, TFT color display, smartphone connectivity via RIDEOLOGY THE APP, as well as several other new updates. kawasaki.com

2020 HARLEY-DAVIDSON LIVEWIRE Sporty, fast and quiet – is it really a HarleyDavidson? Yes, and that’s what Milwaukee is presenting to lure the non-masses. Possessing a liquid-cooled electric motor with a claimed 105 horsepower and 86 lb-ft of torque, it draws power from a 15.5 kWh battery that, according to H-D, has a range of 146 miles in the city and 95 of combined stop-and-go and highway riding. All this for an MSRP starting at only $29,799. harley-davidson.com

2020 INDIAN ROADMASTER DARK HORSE AND SCOUT 100TH ANNIVERSARY The larger Thunder Stroke 116 V-twin is what powers Indian’s upgraded Roadmaster, along with Ride Command infotainment with connected services. Available in Thunder Black Smoke, White Smoke and Ruby Smoke at a starting cost of $28,999.

With styling reminiscent of the original Scout introduced in 1920, the 100th Anniversary edition sports an Indian Motorcycle Red with Anniversary gold trim paint and a color-matched Scout 100th Anniversary

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NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

badge. You’ll travel on a Desert Tan genuine leather floating solo saddle and black wire wheels with gold pinstripes complete the look.

Only 750 units will be built, and pricing starts at $15,999. indianmotorcycle.com

2020 ZERO DSR BLACK FOREST AND SR/F We saw both of these at AIMExpo and were very impressed, particularly with the DSR Black Forest. Powered by a 14.4 kWh battery pack, it comes with lockable Givi panniers and top trunk, crash bars fitted with auxiliary lights, hand guards and a protective headlight

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Ride through Bolivia, Peru and Argentina. The SR/F is the first new model from Visit the full range of our beautiful and enchanting Zero Motorcycles since 2016. Its looks places and see our lakes, other-worldly deserts, are more gas than electric motorcycle and the dramatic Andes, snow-covered volcanoes and, it is powered by a new ZF75-10 Inteof course, the magic world of Patagonia. rior Permanent Magnet motor and email info@motoaventura.cl ZF14.4 lithium-ion battery. Its web www.motoaventura.cl claimed torque is 140 lb-ft and 110 horsepower. You can get yours for a starting price of $18,995. zeromotorcycles.com

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2021 YAMAHA TENERE 700 (WE’LL SEE…) This motorcycle was presented in the fall of 2018, as has yet to grace the U.S shores – Yamaha says it will come in the second half of 2020 as a 2021 model.

We are very interested in seeing what Yamaha will send us, as its big brother (or sister) was well received.

Resources for New York State Road Trip LODGING McGrath’s Edgewood Falls • 1848 NY-145, East Durham, NY 518-634-2236 • mcgrathsmotelny.com Red Mill Inn • 4 Syracuse St, Baldwinsville, NY 315-635-4871 • theredmillinn.com Rogues Harbor Inn • 2079 E Shore Dr, Lansing, NY 607-533-3535 • roguesharbor.com ATTRACTIONS Women’s Rights National Historical Park • 136 Fall St, Seneca Falls, NY 315-568-0024 • www.nps.gov/wori Montezuma National Wildlife Refuge • 3395 Hwy 20, Seneca Falls, NY 315-568-5987 • www.fws.gov/refuge/Montezuma Time and the Valleys Museum • 332 Main St, Grahamsville, NY 845-985-7700 • timeandthevalleysmuseum.org The Glove Museum • 2155 SR 165, Dorloo, NY 518-332-6792 • danielstorto.com

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2019

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sTrasBurg CounTry sTore 1 WesT main sTreeT, sTrasBurg, Pa 717-687-0766 • strasburg.com/strasburg-creamery hours: mon-Wed 10a-6p • Thur 10a-8p • Fri-sat 10a-9p • sun 11a-8p We were heading to our last stop on our Fall Fiesta, riding through some surprisingly twisty bits of Pennsylvania Amish countryside. The afternoon was moving along and it was just about time for a much-needed caffeine and/or sugar stop. We passed a lovely farm set back from the road with a sign claiming ‘Homemade Ice Cream’. With a quick u-turn, we rode down the drive only to find that – being in the Amish country on a Sunday – they were not open. Too bad, as the Down on the Farm Creamery looked like a real winner. I’ll put it on the list for the next time we are in the area, not on a Sunday.

We continued on. You know how your body gets when you think you are imminently going to stop for something and then are disappointed that it doesn’t happen? My sugar fiend was sitting on my shoulder screaming ‘ICE CREAM!’ With just a few miles to go to our destination, my prayers were answered when the Strasburg Country Store came into view. People were going in and out, holding ice cream cones, so I knew it was open.

Entering the old time ice cream parlor and candy shoppe, the smell of freshly baked waffle cones filled my nostrils. There are parlor tables inside or tables and benches outside to enjoy your selection, and what a selection from which you have to choose!

For more than 30 years the Strasburg Creamery has been delighting residents and travelers alike with over 300 unique premium ice cream flavors.

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They rotate over 140 flavors throughout the year, with seasonal specials such as peach and strawberry sundaes and apple dumplings. During our visit we were faced with some tough choices – we could go traditional with Cookies & Cream, Vanilla, Chocolate or Strawberry or dip into their more unique flavors with Teaberry (it’s a Pennsylvania thing), Peanut Butter & Jelly, Strawberry Cheesecake or Spicy Apple Almond. If you are a regular reader of this column, I think you can guess in which direction I went.

Before we got our ice cream, we took a look at the rest of what the Strasburg Country Store had to offer. Walking to the back of the store we passed the waffle room and homemade fudge counter before getting to the candy room. Rows and rows of every type of sugary treat were there to be had.

NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

We ordered up our ice cream: I with a scoop of Spicy Apple Almond and Brian with a waffle cone filled with Coconut and Coffee. All were delicious, if a bit on the sweet side, and most satisfying. We sat outside in the sunshine and watched the passersby and Amish buggies heading home.

All was, once again, right with the world.

The Strasburg Country Store is more than just a great place for your sugar and ice cream cravings. The Shoppes include a Deli, Winery, Bakery, Bicycle Shop and Bed & Breakfast. So you can spend an entire weekend at this one corner of Strasburg while exploring what the rest of the Lancaster area has to offer. Grab a room at the Bed & Breakfast (rooms start at $129 including breakfast, of course), rent a bicycle and take a short tour of the neighborhood, stop back for a bite

of lunch and ice cream, get on the motorcycle and tour some more and then return for the evening for dinner and a bottle of wine to close out the night.

Enjoy your visit to Strasburg Shoppes at Centre Square, a town within a town in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania.

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2019

Page 39

The Law Office of Paul G. Gargiulo Presents

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

PassiVe aggressiVe When it comes to piloting a motorcycle, I admit it…

I am Passive Aggressive. We should all be just a little when riding – especially on the highways and interstates.

According to the dictionary, ‘Passive Aggressive’ is “denoting a type of behavior or personality characterized by indirect resistance to the demands of others and an avoidance of direct confrontation, as in procrastinating, pouting, or misplacing important materials.”

This is not what I mean… at all.

I am simply stealing the phrase and giving it new and better meaning to we riders.

Let me put forth two scenarios… to do this we must jump realms, as it were, and go to…Alternate Universes.

Mackenzie is a youngish rider – she has always thought that a motorcycle would be perfect for her.

She took the course, bought all the right and proper protective gear and started out easy, working her way up from side roads, to main avenues and, eventually, along the highways, byways, and backroads of the region.

It was on the interstate where things got dicey.

Unlike the empty farm roads and the lightly trafficked town where she lives, the bigger roads were a bit of a challenge. Cars and trucks all seemed to move at a far greater velocity and everyone seemed in a huge hurry to get wherever they were going.

Mackenzie had been a timid car driver at best, on a motorcycle it was the same. She tried to keep pace and lane position and got the bike into top gear – making speed, but really just puttering down the road.

Still, she always found everybody rushing by, cutting in and out of her ‘space’ and generally making the ride less and less fun. The entire experience had her rethinking her decision to get into motorcycles.

meanwhile – in an Alternate Universe Mackenzie is a youngish rider – she has always thought that a motorcycle would be perfect for her.

She took the course, bought all the right and proper protective gear and started out easy, working her way up from side roads, to main avenues and, eventually, along the highways, byways, and backroads of the region.

It was on the interstates where things got dicey.

Unlike the empty farm roads and the lightly trafficked town where she lives, the bigger roads were a bit of a challenge.

Cars and trucks all seemed to move at a far greater velocity and everyone seemed in a huge hurry to get wherever they were going.

Mackenzie had been chomping at the bit to get her learner’s permit just to drive a car and since she was a little girl she had always been upfront of the pack in whatever she endeavored. Motorcycles were in her future from the start.

She was an excellent car driver – not ever doing some of the dumb things her friends did, but rather being firm and decisive with her car driving decisions. This carried over to her motorcycle skills as well.

She easily and immediately kept pace and lane position and kept her bike in a gear that allowed the natural ‘powerband’ of the motorcycle to be her friend.

If someone began to crowd her or looked as if they were about to make things tight or dicey, she could easily accelerate away from the situation and any danger. She was not speeding or creating any menace to others, but she was just THAT much quicker, alert and assertive than others on the highway.

She was passive aggressive in her piloting of her motorcycle.

She was more confident. She was better.

She was safer.

When you find yourself on a road that is full of cars, truck, buses… all being driven by mostly clueless, distracted and inept drivers - it is in your best interest to be ‘Passive Aggressive.’

You need to be on a far higher level than these other drivers.

‘Situational Awareness’ must come into play. Like a fighter pilot, you must take in and process everything.

Don’t put your machine into the top gear. One lower works better.

It keeps your revs up and your motorcycle will be far more responsive if called upon to get you away from danger, other mishaps and generally safe, happy and moving.

What you lose in fuel mileage will be made up with a far more enjoyable ride.

I am not saying you should be that dip-shit rider, moving in and around traffic as if it were a race. It is not.

But, the highway is a dangerous place and should be treated as such.

Being a bit Passive Aggressive will make you a more confident, controlled and better rider. ~ Brian Rathjen

Page 40

NOVEMBER 2019 • BACKROADS

UP C OM I N G E VE NT S CAL END AR

What’s Happening

EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTING

MARCH 2020

Every Tuesday • Two Wheeled Tuesday at Spiegel Restaurant • 26 1st Avenue, NyC. An eclectic gathering of motorcycles served with multi-cuisine meals. Kick some tires, have some couscous, enjoy the crowd • www.spiegelnyc.com • 212-228-2894

1 • Long Valley Pub & Brewery, 1 Fairmount Rd., Long Valley, NJ • 908-876-1122 • restaurantvillageatlongvalley.com/long-valley-pub-and-brewery/

Every Thursday • Bike Night at JumboLand, Route 206, Branchville, NJ

8 • Bahrs Landing, 2 www.bahrslandingnj.com

Every Thursday • Bike Night at Skylands Beer/Wine Garden. 447 Rte. 284, Wantage, NJ • 973-875-9463 • SkylandsBeerandWine.com

Bay

Ave.,

Highlands,

NJ

•

732-872-1247

•

15 • Brian’s Harley-Davidson, 600 S. Flowers Mill Rd., Langhorne PA • 215-752-9400 www.brianshd.com

Every Saturday thru October • Bergen County H-D Saddle Up Saturday. 9am for coffee and bagels. Ride departs 10am. Returns to dealership for free music and food. Proper attire MUST be worn! BCHD, 124 essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930

22 • The Hickory BBQ Smokehouse, 743 Route 28, Kingston, Ny • 845-338-2424 www.hickoryrestaurant.com

INTERNATIONAL MOTORCYCLE SHOW

29 • Plumsted Grill, 457 Rte. 539, Cream Ridge, NJ • 609-758-5552 www.theplumstedgrill.com

APRIL 2020

DEC. 6-8 • • Jacob Javits Center, New york, Ny • motorcycleshows.com JAN. 10-12, 2020 • Walter E. Washington Conv. Ctr, Washington, DC

NEVER TOO EARLY TO PLAN FOR 2020 May 9-20 • Backroads 25th Anniversary Ride with IMTBike on their Best of Portugal Tour. The only way to really get to know Portugal is by motorcycle and this remarkable country has a lot to offer! IMTBike's Best of Portugal tour encompasses everything you could want to see in a country as beautiful and mesmerizing as the ancient Roman Lusitania; its fantastic beaches, dizzying cliffs, folklore, Fado music, incredible gastronomy, world-famous wines, captivating cities with centuries of history and of course an abundance of serpentine roads for motorcycling. INTERESTED? Find out more at IMTBike's website or call us at 973-948-4176 May 25 • Tony's Track Days sponsored by Riding in the Zone Motorcyclist Training Non-Sportbike Day, Palmer, MA. Includes classroom sessions with Ken Condon and track time. This is not about 'how to ride' but 'how to ride better.' For full details and registration visit website.

July 20 • Tony's Track Days sponsored by Riding in the Zone Motorcyclist Training Non-Sportbike Day, Palmer, MA. Includes classroom sessions with Ken Condon and track time. This is not about 'how to ride' but 'how to ride better.' For full details and registration visit website.

2019-20 POLAR BEAR GRAND TOUR SCHEDULE It is not necessary to be a member of the Polar Bear Grand Tour to do these rides.

There is generally food at the destination and if you just want to go for a nice ride and join other folks feel free to attend. Polar Bear cancellations & updates will be sent via email and also posted on the website. These are general directions. Please feel free to use a GPS or a map to find a better route. Sign-in is from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. unless otherwise posted. Check the New Member page for general information about the Polar Bear Grand Tour.

5 • CAPE MAy V.F.W. post #386, N.J. 419 Congress St., Cape May, NJ • 609-8847961 18 • END OF THE SEASON GET-TOGETHER - At The Pic-a-Lilli Inn starting @ 11:30 AM. Cost to Members: $6.00 per person. There will be salad, Wings, Beef, rolls, and lemonade, plus a cash bar. you must get an arm band from your flight leader.

Beemerboneyard.com USED OILHEAD, K-BIKE & H EX-H EAD PARTS Hundreds of used parts at 50% off new cost or less Order online 24/7 ~ M/C, Visa, Discover or PayPal 100% money-back guarantee ~ parts ship in 24 hours

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NOVEMBER 2019 3 • Irish Eyes Pub, 213 Angler’s Rd., Lewes, DE • 302-645-6888 www.irisheyespub.com 10 • The Eagles, 350 Woodside Lane, Bridgewater, NJ • 908-526-9898 • 2137foe.org 17 • De Thomasi’s East 5 Points Inn, 580 Tuckahoe Rd & Landis Ave., Vineland, NJ • 856-691-6080 • www.fivepointsinn.com 24 • Hillbilly Hall, 203 Hopewell-Wertsville Rd, Hopewell, NJ • 609-466-9856 hillbillyhall.com

DECEMBER 2019

1 • Montgomery Cycle, 2901 Bethlehem Pike Hatfield, PA • 215-712-7433 www.montgomeryvillecc.com 8 • PJ Whelihan’s 799 Dekalb Pike, Blue Bell, PA • 610-272-8919• pjspub.com December 15, 2019 15 • O’Connor’s American Bar & Grill, 1383 Monmouth Rd Eastampton TWP. NJ • 609261-1555 - CHRISTMAS PARTy. BRING A TOy FOR THE CHILDREN’S HOSPITAL (do NOT wrap present). www.oconnorsmtholly.com 22 • The Hamilton Tap & Grill, 557 US Hwy 130, Hamilton Township, NJ • 609-9050925 • hamilton-tap-grill.business.site/ 29 • Rhodes North Tavern, 40 Orange Turnpike, Sloatsburg, Ny • 845-753-6438 www.rhodesnorth.com

JANUARY 2020

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5 • Pic-A-Lilli Inn 866 Route 206 Shamong NJ • 609-268-2066 • picalilli.com/albums 12 • Victory Brewing Company, 420 Acorn Ln, Downingtown, PA • 610-873-0881 www.victorybeer.com 19 • Woody’s Roadside Tavern, 105 Academy St, Farmingdale, NJ • 732-938-6404 woodysroadside.com 26 • The Exchange, 160 E. Main St., Rockaway, NJ 07866 • www.exchangefood.com

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FEBRUARY 2020

2 • The Franklin House Tavern, 101 North Market Street, Schaefferstown, PA • 717949-2122 • franklinhousetavern.com 9 • Hooters, 25 Rte 23 South, Wayne, NJ • 973-837-1876 • www.hootersnj.com

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