November 2021

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W H AT ’ S I N S I D E

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

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MONTHLY COLUMNS FREE WHEELIN’ ........................................ 3

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

WHATCHATHINKIN’ ................................... 4 ON THE MARK .......................................... 5 THOUGHT FROM THE ROAD ..................... 6

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors

John Cirabassi, Mark Byers, Tony Lisanti, Dr. Seymour O’Life

BACKLASH ............................................... 7 INDUSTRY INFOBITES............................... 9 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA .......................... 11 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN......... 13

Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822

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WE’RE OUTTA HERE ............................... 15 BIG CITY GETAWAY................................. 18 INSIDE SCOOP ....................................... 20 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE .................... 40

FEATURES COLONIAL BEACH BUMS........................ 22 TOUR OF ARMENIA MOUNTAIN RIDE ...... 32 AMERICADE 2021-NY GROOVE ............... 34 SUNDAY IN THE PARK............................. 37

MOTORCYCLES BMW R 18 B + TRANSCONTINENTAL ...... 28 On The Cover: Photographer Kevin Wing captures Brian Rathjen carving the Colorado mountains

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2021. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

F R E E W H EEL I N ’ BRIAN RATHJEN

FORWARD AND BEHIND II If this month’s Free Wheelin’s title sounds a bit familiar that is because I stole, err – borrowed it from Shira’s Whatchathinkin’ column from last month.

In this, she said that she was once told “What’s in the mirrors no longer matters. It’s what is in front of you that makes a difference.”

I think she first saw this in the movie, The Gumball Rally, when Franco (Raul Julia) said to his co-driver Steve Smith, played by Tim McIntire (Sorry not our Steve Smith), in an overly-acted Italian accent…

“Nowa my friend, da first a rule of Italian driving….”, as he tears the rear-view mirror off the Ferrari Daytona and tosses it behind the car, “Whatsa behinda me, is not important!”

I beg to differ.

I think what is behind us is always of some import.

Although I usually stick to riding or places to go and things to see – this month’s article can be used metaphorically if you wish, as so many things that are common to riding can be swung into our day-to-day lives as well.

Basic riding skills can be twisted conveniently into real-life situations.

On the corkboard above my desk, which always looks like an F4 tornado had just blown through, I have Reg Pridmore’s Recurrency Checklist.

Here I glance, regularly, at his 12 points on riding consistently well.

Much like a 12-step program – but for more proficient riding.

Let me point out a few: Make a plan – Joe Jackson sang, “You can’t get what you want, till you know what you want.”

Page 3 I have followed this mantra for decades.

But, still with great maps, GPS and intentions, even the best riders and pilots can get off-course and a bit lost.

My friend Frank Bama once said, “the best navigators are not quite sure where they’re going until they get there...and then they’re still not sure.”

That certainly has been the case recently – well, at least for me.

I have a tee-shirt that says “Often Wrong, Always Confident.” Sometimes it works. Other times… not so much. But sometimes you have to fake till you make it.

Reg also states that the need for a clear mind and a positive attitude changes everything.

This is also true. As is Reg’s statement that we need to be “distraction proof!”

In the book ‘The Upper Half of the Motorcycle’, author Bernt Spiegel made the point of using a push-button counter on his bike. ANY mistake or error or miscue – no matter how trivial - Spiegel would click off another digit. At the end of the day, he could look and see how many times he was not “perfect.” And, by perfect, I mean something he felt he could do even a little bit better.

Some days are better than others – but none were ever perfect.

This brings me back to the mirrors. We all make errors when we ride and live. Most are minor faux pas’…Misreading a turn, blowing a gear-shift change, or slipping a touch on gravel when putting your foot down. Eye-opening certainly, but fairly easy and barely an inconvenience.

But other incidents can ruin not only your day but that of the people wth which you are riding.

A bad, ill-conceived or poorly executed move might do an excellent job of shaking up other riders who normally considered you rock-steady.

No one is Superman - well, Kal-El, but he is him.

When you look in your mirror, perhaps you see that bad and upsetting Continued on Page 10

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

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W H AT C H AT HI NK I N ’ SHIRA KAMIL

THE BETWEEN TIMES November. It’s that weird month that can really go either way as far as weather and riding. We all know that it will be chill, we assume it will be wet, but we all hope that it will be a month of Indian Summer. For the most part, the leaf-peeping will be done as the leaves will have disappeared, so the roads will be a bit emptier and cleaner. There is apple-picking and pumpkin hunting on the agenda for the upcoming holidays. For those who camp, I applaud you always (not really, but it’s the nice thing to say) but especially in spring and autumn with their fickle weather temperaments. Actually, the cooler temps are more my style, as you can always put on another layer but shedding them to the skin is both frowned upon and far from ATGATT. Not only does the crisp weather make for better riding, it makes for better sleeping, with the windows wide and the breeze coming through. And better sleeping leads to better riding, and so on…

So, what’s on your agenda? I think there will be some cleaning and straightening of motorcycles and garage space, finishing or starting of projects that have been put off during the main riding season. Unfortunately, our ‘barn’ is neither insulated nor heated, so many projects are best attended to in the evenings or before Mr. Freeze hits the northeast. We had a TON of ash trees taken down this summer (damn you, ash bores!) so the gathering, splitting and stacking of these behemoths will be done so we’ll have a renewed supply of wood for the fireplace. I truly love Backroads Central, and look forward to returning every time we head out on the motorcycles, but, as everyone who owns a home knows, the work is never done and while we might be able to put it off when the sun is high and the roads are calling, the piper has to be paid and November seems like a good time to do that.

But, come those ‘Indian Summer’ days, there is no amount of ‘Honey Do’ list that will keep us from heading out to explore. Right next to that list sits the one with a plethora of places we’ve found that need to be visited. The weekend of Nov. 6-7 you can explore Warren County NJ’s History Trail. 2024-45 brings its bicentennial, so why not start the celebration early. You can read all about it and download a map here: www. warrenhistorytrail.org Personally, I’d like to do a few more southern rides before the snow flies.

West Virginia is practically next door and, with its amazing roads and quaint towns, a week of finding those places that have thus far eluded us would fit into November quite nicely. While the riding might not be as tantalizing, spending a few days along some shoreline appeals to me as well – no crowds, and, perhaps, some shell searching.

And there is always the great past time of planning rides for next year. We already have our Spring Break Rally sorted out, as you will see in the pages of this magazine. We’re off to the Valleys of the Susquehanna, with a little twist and shout action, both on the roads and in the rides.

We are working on events for 2022, and we know wherever we go, it will be great because of the wonderful people who always join us – our Backroads Family, new and old.

Again, I’d like to head south for a little winter respite. I’m talking REALLY south, like South America - perhaps Peru. We have not visited Machu Picchu yet, or the Nazca Plains or the Atacama Desert. So many places, not enough time. I’ve mentioned that we are trying to get to all the major league baseball stadiums, and getting to Florida in the spring is on my list – Miami and Tampa Bay are not places to visit when the heat starts up. We had a super time in Austin for the MotoGP in October, seeing Valentino for his farewell tour and watching Marquez continue his romp on COTA. We are planning a return in April for the 2022 round, tickets already bought.

Keep an eye on these pages, as well as our web and Facebook sites, for upcoming events and rides. Enjoy the Between Times and we’ll see you on the road. ,

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

O N T H E MAR K MARK BYERS

GET SPORTY At 58, I decided to get a sportbike. I wasn’t looking for one, but circumstances placed it in my path and I, as usual, succumbed to temptation. I like all genres of motorcycling, from trials to hare scrambles to dual sport to touring, but I have never owned a pure sportbike. I certainly have bikes with a sporty nature, but the ones I have with fairings, low bars, and rearset footpegs scarcely make 70 HP. So when Stuart Beatson at Morton’s BMW pointed out a 2012 BMW S1000RR on their floor with only 6,300 miles on it, I was smitten.

My first draft had a paragraph justifying why it’s “now or never,” but the only accounting I need to make to anyone is to myself. I’m not the slowest bear and more importantly, I’m predictable and safe on track, so it comes down to a simple desire to experience the performance and handling of a toptier sportbike while I still have the physical abilities to do so. Hopefully that will be for a while - I know an 82-year-old mentor who is still out there giving it the stick.

And what about that top-tier performance and handling? It’s staggering! You can’t come close to owning a Formula 1 car without stacks of Bitcoin, but for under $20K, you can own a bike that just a couple years ago, in the right hands, would have been competitive at World Superbike. The same features and systems that make today’s sport machines highly competitive also make them highly safe and easy to manage.

I am amazed by the amount of aircraft technology built into bikes. The newest machines have gyros that detect lean angle and adjust the suspension, braking, and power delivery accordingly. Even my nine-year-old

Page 5 machine has a ride-by-wire throttle and depending upon which mode I choose, it senses my inputs and meters fuel accordingly. There’s a load cell on the shift linkage that senses when I want to upshift and it cuts the ignition ever so slightly while the transmission snicks smoothly into the next gear. On more recent models, it also senses downshifts and increases the RPM, making the clutch a “start and stop only” thing.

The suspension has similar instrumentation to an aircraft, with sensors that detect strut compression and adjust the damping on the fly. Wheel speed sensors on each wheel not only feed information to the Antilock Brakes, but the computer also compares them and quickly adjusts for any rear wheel spin or wheelie tendencies. The suspensions offer many adjustments for rider weight and damping, although I defy most people to require more than factory settings, which test riders like Nate Kern have taken great pains to create.

Even the aerodynamics are advanced and I was surprised when I rode my prize home how the air was directed to take load off my hands and arms, a definite plus given the sporty riding position. There are actually little winglets on the fairing of the 2012 and the 2021 M-series has big winglets just like Ducati MotoGP bikes. Finally, the polymer chemistry of today’s tires makes them capable of far more than most people are willing to use.

If you want the unaltered, unaided, full-metal-jacket experience, the antilock brakes and traction control can be switched off. You can override the shift assist and use the clutch if you like. With the traction control abated, you can pull a big, stonkin’ wheelie if you want and if you have the balls and the skills, you can drift the rear into and out of corners.

Actually, the slick mode of the traction control will allow a little of that fun.

My one track day so far showed me that my fitness and flexibility are more likely limitations than my skills: looking up and through turns given Continued on Page 10

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THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD Dear Backroads, To use a certain parlance, this “thing of ours” that we call motorcycling - the camaraderie created by many hours in the saddle and enjoying the euphoric experience of traveling by motorcycle, has given us all a thrill of a lifetime. Over the years it’s inevitable to experience personal losses - family members, parents, associates, and close friends. Certainly, Backroads is not immune, having experienced a fair share.

Some 30+ years ago, I met Jose Ferreira and his best friend Ed Straub at a motorcycle event in Orange County, NY. Jose and Ed, being best friends since High School, I became the 3rd wheel in the trio. We have been fast friends ever since with motorcycling as the core of our relationship. Our trio regularly attended Americade in Lake George with only a rare absence. Over 3 decades, we shared many a moto-journey, ball games, concerts, skiing, dinners, lunches and impromptu rides together.

When it came to long distance motorcycle travel Jose and I became road roommates. Jose proved to be the best easygoing travel companion one could have.

Never fussy or high maintenance, he was simply in it for the saddle time.

Back in 2015 or so I invited Jose to come along on a Backroads trip. True to form, the Backroads family embraced and accepted Jose as their own. Being part of the Backroads family meant a great deal to Jose. He would always ask about the next Spring Break or Fall Fiesta. Sadly, this past May’s Spring Break trip would be

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

Tony Lisanti our last journey together. After what was supposed to be a full recovery from cancer the previous year, we chose to ride by ourselves on the Harleys so we could take our time if we needed to stop more often. He did run out of gas at one point (literally) which is now a great memory since Brian had those handy gas cans and saved the day! Along the routes we crossed paths with others at BBQ joints, sandwich shops and gas stops. There were no ill effects or complaints from Jose. We had a great time winding our way through the hills and mountains of Virginia and West Virginia at our own pace. Following each day’s ride, we celebrated with cigars in hand, dining and sharing experiences, talking motorcycles, life and silly stuff.

On a Sunday morning in mid-August, Jose called and shared the terrible news that health-wise, time was not on his side. None of us knew just how quickly his condition would worsen. We enjoyed one last day riding in late August.

Ed, Jose and I were together a final time Labor Day weekend at the Jersey Shore. On Tuesday Sept. 28th, Ed and I received news neither of us ever wanted.

The sentiments from social media, messages, texts and personal phone calls from the Backroads faithful over these past few days has been heart-warming and very much appreciated. Each has been passed along to his family. While my heart is heavy, the support offered by you all helps more than you will ever know.

Godspeed, my friend. ,

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

BACKLASH CLASS Performs - Looking to 2022 I was aware that VIR stood for VA Int’l Raceway but I wasn’t sure what CLASS stood for. I looked up the CLASS courses and if you don’t mind, I have a couple of questions. I have been riding on the street for 15 or so years but my main focus comes from and still is off-road. I was a decent B Class motocross racer/rider and now race mainly enduro and off-road.

I have always felt that my off-road riding has helped me on street in some cases but hurt me in others. I would like to increase my skills on the street but I am not interested in track racing. Would a CLASS course be a good place to look or do you recommend something else? I did run through the new rider course with my son when he got his motorcycle license. It was a good experience but focused more on very basic things (I was already aware of the difference of my clutch and front brake…).

Cathi and I are beginning to take more trips. I am confident on the street but I also want to be as sharp as possible. Any insight or thoughts you have would be appreciated.

Thanks, Brandon Kendig Brandon, From what you are saying, CLASS may well be a great experience for what you want to do with your riding. As we’ve learned over the many years of attendance, we always come away with new knowledge and feeling that our riding has become smoother and more controlled. While it is held on a track, CLASS is NOT a track day, simply a controlled environment to practice the skills you NEED and use on the street.

Perhaps another venue you might investigate is Ken Condon’s Riding in the Zone session: www.training. ridinginthezone.com/on-street-training-options.

Ken is a proficient on- and off- road rider and passes his street knowledge along expertly. His training is done on the street, making it directly applicable to your riding.

Just the fact that you are looking to better your skills gives you an up on so many other riders. Enjoy and maybe we’ll see you next year at VIR (Reg and Gigi, no pressure…)

Dear Brian & Shira, Thanks so much for arranging another terrific track day and Backroads get together! It was great riding with you and meeting old and new friends from NJ. I hope your ride home wasn’t too unpleasant. Thankfully I did fine during the monsoon but wish I was riding the FJR with more weather protection and GPS. Looking forward to riding with you again soon. Take care & stay well!

Joe Giuffre Editor, Terrific to see so many of the Backroads crew at VIR for CLASS! Clearly demonstrates their commitment to constant skills improvement, attention to safety and having a heck of a good time!

Like you’ve said dozens of times, “The farkle with the greatest value is an investment in the rider!”

Larry Cain

Aw, Shucks Great magazine, great service, great way to inspire better riding destinations!

Keep up the great work!

Andrew Berman

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Letters to the Editor Enclosed is a check for $40 for a one-year subscription to Backroads.

David, my husband, loves BACKROADS and reads it but I am a complete addict – I think the writing is superlative and the history lessons fascinating. I read every issue cover to cover several times, including every ad. Problem is, we weren’t getting enough issues.

I went a quarter of a mile on the back of David’s bike about 50+ years ago and that was it – do not like to ride in cars either.

Thank you so much, Carol Taylor Thank you, Pamela Collins, for the excellent review on Bridgestone Battlax T32 sport-touring tires. I’m currently running Battlax T31s on my sport touring motorcycle and love them, so based on your review, when they need replacement I’m going to seek out a set of T32s for my trusty GPz1100. Good stuff!

Bill Denton Brian and Shira A suggestion for an All-American Diner run if you make it to Americade this year, or whenever you’re in the area: Continued on next page

Page 8 Sally’s Henhouse Restaurant, 3978 US 4, Hudson Falls, NY, 12839, phone 518-746-0040.

We discovered it on our way to the Star Trek museum at Ft. Ticonderoga. Our kind of eatery - breakfast served all day, good food, good service, large portions, decent price, popular with locals, lots of tacky diner humor stuff on the walls, and best of all a nice friendly atmosphere.

A guy at the counter noticed my shirt with a Brockway Truck emblem on it. He was from Cortland, NY, where they made Brockways. He was friends with my son-in-law’s sister from that area, and at some point he asked where I was from. Lo and behold, he’d done some work for the farm where I’m employed part time., and had admired a specialized manure hauler I’d built.

This kind of “small world!” stuff can only happen in a place like this.

It’s why I’ll wear a Harley shirt while riding a BMW. Harley guy’s notice this - and a conversation begins; happened more than once, and it’s mostly good.

Jake Herzog Shira, I’m planning a 4-day ride to either WV (Elkins area) or VT, which would you recommend? 3 of us are going and we’ve all done WV several times and love it but I keep hearing rave reviews on VT. I’m loving Backroads magazine and take it with me on my airline trips for hotel reading.

Thanks in advance, Tim Tim, Since you’ve all ridden WV, go for something new. Vermont in the autumn is super, and there are so many great roads – paved and not – to explore.

Some suggestions for base camps: in the southern portion – Gray Ghost, Kitzof or Big Bear inns located in West Dover, the Snowed Inn in Killington or the Commodore Inn in Stowe. All are motorcycle-friendly and offer perfect spots from which to explore for your 4-day excursion.

Wherever you go – enjoy!

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021 Hi Brian, I just wanted to let you know we did the 2-day enduro (Fall Foliage Tour of Armenia Mountain – Canton, PA) that was advertised in the back of the magazine.

Wanted to let you know, good people, good food, good roads.

The guy Frank Watson was a ranked road racer, he is a diesel mechanic and owns a shop that assembles specialty trucks. He’s involved with the Lions Club that organized and ran the event. Nice event, we had awesome weather.

We did this since the Giro was canceled….again. I rode my 1972 DT 250, Rich Holman rode my 2009 KLR. Went with two other friends. Have to say trailering your bike to an enduro is fun. Perfect bike would be a Suzuki DR 450 or Kawasaki KLX 450, something street legal and very light.

I know, just what you want to see…more motorcycles.

Gary

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

INDUSTRY INFOBITES

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News from the Inside

HVMC DONATES TO NICKY HAYDEN MEMORIAL FOUNDATION

APPLE ISSUES WARNING TO IPHONE USERS WHO RIDE A MOTORCYCLE

Hudson Valley Motorcycles is honored to announce that it’s partnered with an amazing friend & client, Mr. Kevin Hoffman, to make a charitable donation to the Nicky Hayden Memorial Foundation.

The foundation was created to continue the legacy of 2006 MotoGP World Champion and American motorcycle racing hero “The Kentucky Kid” all the while supporting the youth of his surrounding community.

Mr. Hoffman recently purchased a limited-edition Ducati Hypermotard RVE and happened to receive number #69 of 100 nationwide. This inspired Hoffman to honor the late #69 Nicky Hayden by way of a $2500 donation. Hudson Valley Motorcycles General Manager Richie Alexander agreed to match the donation on behalf of the entire HVMC staff bringing the total amount raised to $5000.

This donation went on to help grant the wish of a local Kentucky boy battling cystic fibrosis via Make-A-Wish and the Nicky Hayden Memorial Foundation. The sixyear-old Bradlyn Leach was gifted a one-of-akind pirate ship play set at his Utica home.

Beyond the special #69 engraved on the bike’s engine, Mr. Hoffman’s Hypermotard RVE is not your average. A series of modifications were made to retrofit the upgraded components of the Hypermotard SP to his new RVE model, and then some!

“Exposing your iPhone to high amplitude vibrations within certain frequency ranges, specifically those generated by high-power motorcycle engines, can degrade the performance of the camera system.”

The vibrations from the engines of high-power motorcycles can damage the camera on devices like the iPhone 12, in a new support document.

Apple says the problem stems from its optical image stabilization (OIS) software, which it uses on all of its best iPhones to make images less blurry, compensating for hand movements whilst you take a picture. Another feature, closed-loop autofocus, which resists gravity and vibration to preserve sharp focus, is also at the heart of the issue.

The OIS and closed-loop AF systems in iPhone are designed for durability. However, as is the case with many consumer electronics that include systems like OIS, long-term direct exposure to high-amplitude vibrations within certain frequency ranges may degrade the performance of these systems and lead to reduced image quality for photos and videos. It is recommended to avoid exposing your iPhone to extended high-amplitude vibrations.

In particular, Apple says that high-power or high-volume motorcycle engines “generate intense high-amplitude vibrations, which are transmitted through the chassis and handlebars” which could damage an iPhone attached to the front of a bike for use with navigation or some other purpose. As such Apple says “it is not recommended to attach your iPhone to motorcycles with high-power or high-volume engines.”

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

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RPM ACT REINTRODUCED IN CONGRESS After receiving more than 1.5 million letters from motorsports enthusiasts across the country, the Recognizing the Protection of Motorsports Act (RPM Act) has been reintroduced in the U.S. House of Representatives (H.R. 3281) and U.S. Senate (S. 2736) in the 2021-2022 session of Congress.

The RPM Act of 2021 is common-sense, bi-partisan legislation that guarantees Americans’ right to modify street cars, trucks and motorcycles into dedicated racing vehicles and ensures the motorsports-parts industry’s ability to sell products that enable racers to compete.

The RPM Act reverses the EPA’s interpretation that the Clean Air Act prohibits a motor vehicle designed for street use -- including a car, truck, or motorcycle -- to be converted into a dedicated racecar. This American tradition was unquestioned from 1970 until 2015 when the federal Environmental Protection Agency took the position that converted vehicles must remain emissions-compliant, even though they are no longer driven on public streets or highways.

NY STATE TO BAN NEW COMBUSTION VEHICLE SALES BY 2035 New York governor Kathy Hochul approved new legislation establishing a 2035 zero-emissions goal for the state. According to the text of the bill that the governor signed into law on September 8, 2021; all new passenger cars and trucks sold in New York state would need to meet zero-emissions requirements by 2035.

As written, the law does not specifically mention motorcycles, scooters, or other two- or three-wheeled vehicles, but additionally, new off-road vehicles and equipment sold within the state must meet zero-emissions requirements by 2035, as well.

Legislation to meet emissions targets is something we’re seeing more and more in recent time, including several European and Asian countries, but so far New York and California are the only two U.S. states to have taken zero-emissions targets into their own hands.

As other similar laws in other jurisdictions have been written, New York’s law will not impact existing combustion vehicles that were sold prior to the deadline. The law as currently written only applies to sales of new vehicles from 2035.

PER-MILE MOTORCYCLE INSURANCE LAUNCHED An innovative InsurTech company named Voom has just partnered with insurance company Markel to offer a stunning solution to today’s motorcycle insurance premiums -- and the price will purportedly be measured on a per-mile basis.

A report from CycleNews states that Voom and Markel’s concept came from a statistic stating that low-mileage riders tend to be safer and cause less chaos, posing up to 80% less risk than riders who spend the day in the saddle.

This option will make a big difference for riders living in a continental climate, who were previously limited to annual or seasonal insurance, and now won’t have to worry about the extra amount of money that goes to waste on the off-seasons -- rather, riders would simply be required to submit a picture of their odometer to the company once a month, and ride as much or as little as they see fit.

The premiums are currently available to Arizona, Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio, with liability, comprehensive, medical payments, collision, uninsured motorists, and accessory coverage.

The eventual goal is to expand per-mile insurance to the rest of America, with emphasis on low-mileage riders.

ROBOT SHAMES BADLY-PARKED BIKES Singapore is waging war on illegal parking, among other things, and is dispatching autonomous police robots to bring order to the streets.

Xavier is a four-wheeled box that features a touchscreen on the front and radar sensors and cameras on the top. The cameras can relay 360° images to a command center and is also able to automatically alert scofflaws to a number of infringements. And it’s not just illegally parked motorcycles that this crime-fighting tin can is trained to spot. Any undesirable and anti-social behavior is this little Robocop’s specialty. That means peddlers, gatherings of five or more people (COVID-19 restrictions), engaging in “undesirable social behavior,” and even smokers need to beware.

Xavier has been programmed to penalize improperly parked motorcycles -- with shame. When the robot detects illicit situations, Xavier will display messages to the culprit, guilt tripping violators and hopefully deterring similar behavior in the future.

For now, the roving crime fighter is a test, but it’s here now and nothing can stop it – apart from stairs, curbs, tall grass and toppling over. , FREE WHEELIN’

Continued from Page 3

incident; and although we have to look where we want to go, it is okay to remember and if you mess with some other rider’s heads, even collaterally, it’s okay, and a good thing, to pull over and take a moment to say I’m sorry.

But, then put the bike back in gear look to the future, and get back on the road. , ON THE MARK

Continued from Page 5

that laid-down riding position is a definite challenge for a man of a certain maturity. I am pleasantly surprised by the overall ergonomics, however, and have done a fair amount of commuting, putting it in rain mode for some morning rides when nightly rains left the pavement wet.

The other cool thing is that by experimenting with the systems on their sportbikes, BMW has introduced them to their touring machines. My 2018 RT has the latest version of Shift-Assist, has both dynamic suspension and throttle controls, and has a cool hill-assist brake system that improves starting on uphill grades. Now if I could just get an appetite- and weight-control feature on ME, I’d be getting as sporty as I want. ,

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

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Morton’s BMW Motorcycles presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA

THE CRASH OF AMERICA’S FIRST NUCLEAR BOMBER… A FORGOTTEN PIECE OF MYSTERIOUS AMERICA

The AJ Savage was the first U.S. bomber designed specially to carry the atomic bomb. It was North American’s first attack bomber specifically for the U.S. Navy and was designed shortly after the end of World War II. This plane was designed with one specific purpose – to deliver a nuclear bomb.

But, one flight of this aircraft has gone virtually forgotten by our citizenry.

In mid-June of 1950 Commander Willard Sampson, age 33, from Niagara Falls, New York, James A. Moore Jr., flight engineer from Santa Ana, California and Holiday Lee Turner from the Navy Bureau of Aeronautics, a Baltimore, Maryland native boarded U.S. Navy North American AJ-1 Savage (BuNo 122590) to simply ferry the aircraft from Edwards Base in California to the Patuxent Naval Air Station on the Patuxent River in Maryland.

My brother-in-arms Mark Byers is a Flight Engineer at this base today.

Although the aircraft had already been deployed around the world on carriers, this particular aircraft was the first prototype built and was being brought to the east coast for other duties. With a range of 1,600 miles, the craft had made stops along the journey to refuel and all was going “nominally” as they say… until it was not.

Date: June 22, 1950 • Location: A.J. Laughlin Farm Huddleston, Virginia It had rained most of the day but began to clear with a blood-red sunset. As they say …

“Red sky at night, sailors delight” and tomorrow looked to be a better day.

Larry Lynch was 13 years old on June 22 of that year and after daily chores, he was sitting down with his father and a neighbor admiring the sunset.

According to a report in the News & Advance, a local newspaper by Sarah Honosky: “They heard the plane before they saw it, which wasn’t unusual, but Lynch remembered the sound — high-pitched and fluctuating, an abnormal whine of the engines, the only warning that preceded its power-dive plummet to the ground below. Then, they heard the explosion.

Now in his 80s, Lynch is one of the last surviving firsthand witnesses of a plane crash that killed three men: a production model AJ-1 Bomber, the Navy’s first strike plane designed to carry the nuclear bomb, crashed en route to a naval air station along the Patuxent River in Maryland.

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He said some people will say the plane exploded in the air. Others will say they could hear the pilots screaming.

But Lynch said neither is true.

“All you could see was red,” Lynch said, and the explosion was loud enough to be heard within a five-mile radius, and it cratered the earth on impact, several feet deep, the footprint of a large house.

Armed with flashlights, Lynch and the others rushed about two miles to the crash site where they joined a handful of other bystanders, cars parked in a semicircle to direct their headlights at the strewn mess of the wreckage.

“There was really nothing you could do,” Lynch said.

Still, he can remember pieces of the plane and body parts lying across the ground, the smell of burning jet fuel and flesh. There was a parachute and parts of a body in a tree close by, and until a deputy and a fire truck showed up from Bedford, and the state police came to turn people away, there was nothing to do but stare.

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021 “I had never seen a crash like that before,” Lynch said. “Living on a farm you see death, but you don’t ever see it like that.”

The plane went down in a hayfield on A.J. Laughlin’s farm off Falling Creek Road. All three of the pilots were killed in the crash after the engines exploded.

We were riding up through Virginia and stopped for fuel and food at a local gas station.

My ever-vigilant friend Jeff Caruana spotted the memorial first. We all stopped our bikes and read the plaque.

None of us had ever heard of this incident. Even Mr. Byers had never heard of this and, as he said, anyone he could ask is “either retired, dead or both.”

As there were no Flight Recorder on this craft the reason for the crash is still a great question for aviation aficionados and the U.S. Navy.

Did something cause an explosion or radical engine failure or was some other aircraft gremlin responsible? Considering the clearing weather and the talent of the flyers – pilot error seems highly unlikely.

The eye-witnesses said that the Savage power-dived straight into the ground.

How can that happen?

No one will ever know, but we do know that three great men of our military were lost.

All this makes this terrible incident and, other than patriotic locals, an unheard story which is part of Mysterious America.

O'Life Out! ,

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

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Thisilldous Eatery presents

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN DUE SOUTH PIT COOKED BBQ

1465 ROANOKE STREET, CHRISTIANSBURG, VIRGINIA 540-381-2922 www.duesouthbbq.com I was riding with fellow Backroads columnist Mark Byers ( the guy that writes the smart columns) down in Virginia. We had left earlier that day from the Spring Break rally so I could have a slight issue taken care of at Frontline Eurosports and Mark, never having been to this dealership, joined me so he could see this great shop for himself.

Somewhere past noon, we were wheelin’ our way back to the rally when the pangs of hunger enveloped us both. Mark’s eagle eyes picked up a small sign for a barbeque place called Due South. He pointed at the sign and I flashed my high beams in agreement.

Not too soon after we spotted the restaurant, although I think I picked it up in an olfactory manner a mile back.

Although it is located on a fairly large road, Due South is the real deal.

Mark parked his new RT and I followed behind with the GS. We snatched an indoor, open-air table and went in search of what smelled so damn good.

While taking in all the ambiance and chatting with the very friendly staff we heard a bit about the story of Due South.

Jared and Marie March moved to Virginia from South Carolina in 2007 and decided to share their love of BBQ with their community of friends. Smoking pulled pork BBQ had been their hobby for years.

The couple would cook for parties, tailgates, family get-togethers, and holidays.

The Marchs would travel to BBQ Festivals to sample all the various meats and sauces and always sample the BBQ when traveling to other states. One time they even chased down a festival called Hamfest in Shelby, NC. Surprisingly they pulled up, ready to eat, and then realized they had just paid to get into a Ham Radio festival. (Who noticed all those antennas on the cars on the way in?) Looking to make the next step in their love of smokey goodness they opened Due South.

tasty places to take your bike They rightly take pride in slow smoking their pork butts for 12-14 hours over hickory in their Ole Hickory of Lang BBQ pits.

Mark ordered the Pulled Pork sandwich and baked beans and I opted for the Down Home Smokey Chicken Wings – both came with hush puppies.

There is plenty else to be found at Due South – plates of Ribs, Smoked Chicken with lunch specials every weekday between 10 am and 2 pm. The Due South BLT looked tasty with bacon, tomato, and fried green ‘maters ( I do not know exactly what to make of that – but it looked good). Some other toasted sandwich offerings included Smoked Chicken or Ham, along with Fried Dill Pickle Spears and Mexicali Jalapeno Poppers.

If you are still any bit hungry after all this, the desserts will surely finish you off. Apple

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BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

Fritter, Chocolate Overload Cake, and Kentucky Bourbon Pecan Pie will work well.

We were about halfway through our meal when we heard some familiar voices and columnist Tony Lisanti and friend Jose Ferreira strolled through the wide-open garage door. They had been exploring the region and spotted the sign as well.

Jose’ knew it was a college town so knew there would be some good food to be found and when they parked their Harleys they spotted our BMWs. I have been told brilliant minds think alike.

Nice! We hung out for a bit, while they ate, before heading back to the rally.

Due South is amazing and we know you’ll love their pulled pork, chicken, ribs, and brisket!

Stop in and enjoy the Due South BBQ taste and experience!

After you get a taste of the handmade food and music…we know you will make Due South your BBQ of choice when in the central Virginian region.

So, with this great barbeque joint, we will give an equally great Rip & Ride GPX Route from Frontline Eurosports in Salem, Virginia.

Start for there, but before you leave take a good look around this dealership. Extraordinary in many ways! , Download route here:

www.sendspace.com/pro/ dl/349pqb

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

WE’RE OUTTA HERE THE VINE COTTAGE INN

7402 SAM SNEAD HWY, HOT SPRINGS, VA 24445 540-839-2422 • www.vinecottageinn.com In the Old Dominion state there are 95 different counties – but Bath County, Virginia is one of the most stunning of them. Running along the border with West Virginia, Bath is a magical combination of small and flavorful towns, valleys, wilderness and mountains.

The county also has, along with the adjoining Highland County, over 400 cave systems – mostly found in limestone Karst. One cave has 17 miles mapped deep under the Earth.

Just 590 square miles – nearly 90% still wild – and is known for its mineral springs and hospitality.

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a weekend destinationkeeping you on the backroads To say Bath County is unique in many ways is an understatement.

It’s the hospitality that we wish to share this month with y’all.

As you ride south on Route 220, called the Sam Snead Highway after the famed golfer, you will find a Bed & Breakfast that has something we never see enough these days… Under the sign telling you that you have found The Vine Cattage Inn, you will see “Riders Welcome.”

And, we certainly are.

The owners Tammy and Dave Hahn have long been in the hospitality business.

In the 1980’s, Tammy fell in love with the TV series “Hotel” and decided that she wanted to own her own hotel. We’re glad she didn’t fall in love with The Love Boat or Fantasy Island. Tammy attended Michigan State University and, in 1992, earned her degree in Hotel, Restaurant, and Institutional Management. While going to school, Tammy started her hospitality career working entry level positions for various hotels - behind the front desk, housekeeping, and even spent some time in the kitchens.

In 1983, after an impromptu interview with the General Manager, Dave took a position as a busboy at the Hyatt Hotel in Richmond, Virginia.

Since then, he has done everything and anything within the Food and Beverage industry from Hyatt Hotels to Taco Bell!

A few years back they spotted The Vine Cottage – loved the place and soon were the new owners.

The Inn has a long history of taking care of travelers and, now riders looking for an escape.

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Vine Cottage Inn was built as a private residence in 1900. That only lasted for 5 years. In 1905 it started accepting overnight travelers and has been operating as a lodging establishment in Hot Springs, VA for 116 continuous years. The Inn was expanded in 1913 (ish) when they encompassed the wraparound porch to expand the living and dining rooms. In 1928, the owners decided to expand again, enlarging the kitchen and adding the back wing of the house (three floors), creating 8,500 square feet.

Additionally in 1928, they brought in the current stove which is a 1928 Commercial Magic Chef with 6 burners, 2 ovens, a griddle and a broiler.

While they say the ovens are a little out of calibration, heck, we don’t know may things that aren’t out of calibration after 94 years!

After the 1928 expansion, the Vine Cottage Inn had 20 guest rooms with common bathrooms, a fairly large staff including 3 housekeepers, a cook and a butler, and had guests that stayed all summer long to partake of the

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

cooler temperatures and the mineral waters of the public baths.

These days the inn currently has 10 guest rooms, each with its own private bathroom and a common bathroom on the 2nd floor.

Staff consists of Dave and Tammy, Tim and their housekeeper, Diane.

This foursome run a most marvelous B & B! The Inn offers a huge front porch, large living room and cozy library where guests can relax and recharge. We love books and the amount and quality of their various libraries, scattered through the Vine Cottage, would make both Barnes and Noble smile!

The bed, with the most comfortable sheets, was very welcome that night after a few days on the road and breakfast, taken out on the porch, was a superb way to start another long riding day. Frittata with peppers, onion and mushroom along with sausage patties and biscuit were delicious, a side of fresh fruit and the coffee – well, speaking as a serious coffee guy – I was very happy… and awake!

Coffee, sodas, water and fresh baked cookies are available 24 hours a day. The inn is located at the entrance to the Omni Homestead Resort; slightly known for haughtiness and lack of ‘Rider Empathy.’

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

At The Vine Cottage “Five Star Service Always” is not only a motto and slogan, it is an everyday attitude. It makes no difference if there are 2 people at the Inn, or 26… each and every guest will be taken care of fully with the respect reminiscent of days gone by, when the hospitality business meant just that.

But, and I saved the best for last…

They have ice cream – lots of ice cream.

Their ice cream window, ‘Treats from the Vine’, was serving ten flavors from Homestead Creamery in Wirtz, VA the day we were there. You can bet Shira was a happy camper.

Looking for a place while riding around

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western Virginia? A place that welcomes motorcycles and riders? A place that can make an excellent “base camp” for a few days exploration?

Then book a room with Tammy and Dave - we promise you will not be disappointed.

Our ride to The Vine Cottage Inn will start in Front Royal and is, we think, one of the best we have ever offered.

Enjoy, and see you on the road. Ride safe, Ride smart, Ride the Backroads. , Download route here:

www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/ubo4je

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

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Frontline Eurosports presents

BIG CITY GETAWAY U.S. SPACE AND ROCKET CENTER

1 TRANQUILITY BASE, HUNTSVILLE, ALABAMA www.rocketcenter.com Space… the final frontier.

How we all know these words. But Star Trek is a future that might yet be written.

Our real space history is very much a reality and the single greatest place to experience this is outside of Huntsville, Alabama at the US. Space and Rocket Center.

We visited there this past April.

What started as a quick photo stop ended up with us burning the rest of the day in this magnificent museum.

If you are like us then Space Program was the greatest “real” show we have ever seen.

This is the place to be, Located alongside Interstate 565, right outside downtown Huntsville, this is a hard place to miss.

Like the tiny town of Warren, New Hampshire… rockets tend to garner attention. The Redstone, basically a nuclear missile, is a full 83 and a half feet tall.

As we rode up to the U.S. Space and Rocket Center it was hard to miss the Saturn V. At nearly 365 feet tall it tends to grab your attention. Whoa.

The Saturn V was launched 13 times from Kennedy Space Center with no loss of crew or payload. As of 2021, the Saturn V remains the tallest, heaviest, and most powerful rocket ever brought to operational status, and holds records for the heaviest payload launched and largest payload capacity to low Earth orbit of 310,000 lbs, which included the third stage and unburned propellant needed to send our guys to the Moon.

You got that Alice….? Bang, zoom!

But, as much as I am into big rockets, there are other aircraft and technology that the United States has brought forth, although this first aircraft that came rolling by was not a rocket.

Staring at the Saturn V, as it dominated the vista as we rode up, I heard Shira say… “Well, aren’t you the lucky boy?”

She knows where I am at.

Three decades will do that.

I glanced to my left and… there sat a Blackbird. And, not McCartney’s Blackbird by the way.

The SR-71 was also the fastest and highest-flying air-breathing, piloted aircraft ever built, flying at 90,000 feet (20,000 feet above the U-2) and at more than 2,100 mph—literally faster than a speeding bullet, as in Los Angeles to DC in 64 minutes.

We have been looking for one on eBay, but no luck so far.

But this is called the U.S. Space and Rocket Center, as it is the largest collection of rocketry and space exploration on the planet.

We had thought we’d drop by for a few quick images but, before we knew it, five hours had passed. I even became Astro-certified – kinda – with my ride on the multi-axis trainer. I was strapped and suspended into this contraption made of three tumbling rings. I was simultaneously rotated, somersaulted and rolled through said rings. Did I mention I did this right after

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

Page 19 we ate lunch? Shira stood by, warning those watching to be aware of that fact – to perhaps not stand directly in front of the spinning person.

The first thing to know, at any great museum or place along this line, is that the staff makes or breaks it. We had a docent who went beyond his job to draw us into the entire U.S. Space program. Just seeing something and then really hearing about it makes a difference.

My hat is off to all those who are docents… Yes, Steve Sacher, I mean you! You bring life to history. You take a simple display and reach into our souls. You make a bit of history into a real feeling… of skin and bone. You keep our history alive. May the gods bless you. I am in awe of you all, as I was of the U.S. Space and Rocket Center.

What was impressive outside could not hold a candle to what was to be seen inside.

A Saturn V was taken apart so you could see all of the three stages.

Apollo Capsules, Lunar Excursion Modules (LEM), and a deep look into our space history. You can even train like an astronaut and experience three times the force of gravity as you test your will in the G-Force Accelerator.

The museum was first proposed by Wernher Magnus Maximilian Freiherr von Braun. For those of you who do not know the name…. he was a German-born American aerospace engineer and space architect. He was the leading figure in the development of rocket technology in Nazi Germany and a pioneer of rocket and space technology in the United States.

Our thought is that he was one of us. He was not a Nazi. He was a rocket-head. Not too different from a motorhead.

How fast can we go? How far can we go? Space…. The final frontier.

No different from Homer Hickam in West Virginia. Von Braun also, evidently, was a very funny man.

This museum is amazing in every way.

And, we hope you follow in our wake and have to be part of your rocketry history.

It’s time to blast off! Everything is nominal. ,

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

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FORTUNES ICE CREAM

55 BROADWAY, TIVOLI, NY 12583 • 845-757-2899 • fortunesicecream.com WINDOW SERVICE SEASONALLY • PINTS SOLD / CHECK FOR HOURS OFF-SEASON I’ve been doing the Inside Scoop for many moons now, and I’ve been asked how I discover all the varied places I feature. Many times, it’s just the luck of being on the right road at the right time and passing what looks to be another stop on the ice cream trail. Like other journalists, I peruse the lists of ‘Best ofs’ and ‘Only in your State’ to see other people’s selections. Ice cream and pizza seem to be two of the most contested foods, as everyone has an opinion because there are so many choices. With ice cream, there’s soft or hard serve, waffle or sugar cone or cup as well as the age-old argument over chocolate or vanilla. These days, with the rise of the multitudes of homemade ice cream shops, the exotic flavors are too numerous to name, with the likes of rosewater pistachio, habanero maple and sweet pea mint for those adventurous enough to give them a lick.

This summer we ventured out for a day ride in the Hudson Valley, with a stop in Dutchess County’s tiny village of Tivoli. Seems it had been discovered by Food & Wine magazine in their annual Best Ice Cream by State, with the accolades going to Fortunes Ice Cream, ranked top in New York State. In my opinion, there is good ice cream and great ice cream, but when you can get your hands on award-winning ice cream, it’s time to get on your bike and ride.

Lisa Farjam and Brian Ackley are the brains behind Fortunes Ice Cream. They met at Bard College, a stone’s throw from Tivoli in Annandale, and moved to The City where they created an art magazine called Bidoun. Brian continued his education with a Masters of Architecture and began designing furniture.

Their love of entertaining and elaborate dinner parties developed Brian’s role as dessert maker extraordinaire and he delved into the art of ice cream making.

While they never did go back to their old school, they did move back to Tivoli, family in tow, and longed for a quaint spot for fresh, seasonal, locally made ice cream to bring their little ones. As if on cue, 55 Broadway, what they felt would be the perfect location, became available and they moved in, never having done anything like this before but knowing that Brian made some damn fine ice cream.

They saw it as their FORTUNE. Some six years later, they are still scooping their finest, pleasing locals and travelers alike, and earning the FORTUNE and fame they sought.

We parked in front of the colorful and inviting scoop shop on a sunny day, looking forward to tasting their offerings. The inside was closed, but their scoop window was doing a very brisk business, the patio tables filled with smiling faces young and old. This day’s menu featured a dozen flavors, from traditional to quite creative, including vegan and dairy-free along with good old fashioned dairy ice cream.

Of course, I wanted to try them all, especially the Halva Honeycomb (dairy-free), Darkest Chocolate, Rosewater Pistachio, Licorice and Plum Ginger. Their flavors do change and rotate, as well as having seasonal flavors such as their autumn Verbena Husk Cherry. After the happy young lady in the window offered a few sample tastings, I settled on a double cup of Plum Ginger and Caramel Brownie. Brian opted for a double cone of Coffee and Darkest Chocolate, washing this all down with very good iced coffee. Your choices in servings are one, two or three scoops at very reasonable prices with the optional toppings including hot fudge, caramel, peanuts, salt, sprinkles and a cherry. If you’d like to go big, their sundaes are hot fudge or caramel, milkshakes of any flavor including coffee with an extra shot, root beer float, and my personal favorite, the Affogato – vanilla ice cream with hot coffee poured over it.

Our desserts secured, we found one of the colorful tables and enjoyed the afternoon sun while watching the little kids play in the alleyway. Each was most tasty, but the coffee and chocolate were exceptional.

Fortunes is seasonal but, in the off-season, they do sell pints and other grab and go options on select dates so take a look at their web and Facebook pages should you decide to take a spin to Tivoli. For now, it may be the thirty-five sweet goodbyes, but soon the oleanders will grow outside their door and it will, once again, be ice cream time.

Here’s a 130-mile one-way route from Elias Cole (great breakfast!) on Route 23 in Sussex, NJ to Fortunes Ice Cream in Tivoli, NY. Enjoy the ride and we’ll see you on the ice cream trail: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/pq6s1z ,

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

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Colonial Beach Bums

words and images: Brian Rathjen Derecho: A widespread, long-lived, straight-line wind storm that is associated with a fast-moving group of severe thunderstorms known as a mesoscale convective system. Derechos can cause hurricane-force winds, tornadoes, heavy rains, and flash floods and can last up to 20 minutes or more.

On July 6th the skies above Backroads Central went from sunny and hot to dark and then dangerous in a matter of minutes.

Shira called from the Durango in the Shop Rite parking lot where she was waiting it out, to warn me and to get Spenser T. Cat inside.

I headed outside as the derecho hit. Insanity. I was drenched in seconds as I looked for the tabby.

A small (thankfully) branch came zipping in, nailing my head.

Spenser was smart, he’d hide till this was over.

I heard one, then, three trees come down on the property.

Time to retreat, was my thought.

With everything soaked, and taking off my sneakers, I spotted Spenser dashing around towards the back of the house. I took off to get the back sliding door open for him but, as I hit the three recently refinished wooden steps, I kinda high-sided and came down hard on my left side, tearing my left lat, oblique, and seriously bruising my butt while bashing my helmetless head on the steps.

I am not sure when I made it to the couch where Shira found me – but it was obvious I would be off the bike for a few weeks at least.

With the damage to the property and myself, and not any real ‘wins’ in a week or so, we thought we’d need to escape for a few days and we knew just the place.

Day One

Colonial Beach, Virginia is considered the playground on the Potomac.

This funky river and beach town are located in the northwestern part of Westmoreland County on Virginia’s Northern Neck peninsula. It is bounded by the Potomac River, Monroe Bay, and Monroe Creek and is home to the second-largest beachfront in the state.

We have been here before and had discovered the neatest beachy hotel – The Riverview.

Think art deco, add a squeeze of history and a dash of Key West, shake and pour right near the point the Potomac empties into the Chesapeake Bay and you get Colonial Beach.

We had our fill of the storms and the heat was about to come on strong.

Although I thought bikes, Shira the Redhead nixed that idea and pointed to the Audi A4. Her reasoning being it was comfortable, German and a convertible… and I was on the IL (injured list).

I threw my bag liner, the same one I use on my bike, into the trunk and painfully settled into the passenger seat. Hey, we say motorcycles, travel & adventures – this trip would be the latter two.

It was a great call as we hit heavy rains at times and temps in the very humid 90s.

But, like most road trips, we had issues.

It is the small issues and overcoming them that makes any journey memorable.

Talking Shira into closing the top, we quickly discovered that the AC was not AC’n very well. I googled the next truck stop and we vectored off the highway to picked up an AC 134a Refrigerant Kit. 15 minutes later we were back on the road south in a now very cool, almost chilly, A4. Finally, a small win!

We arrived in Colonial Beach in the late afternoon – and checking into the Riverview we were met by Kelly, who owns the place with her husband Bob. Plans were made for dinner with them later that evening.

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021 With a few hours to spare we took a stroll along the town and the river’s shore. This part of the Potomac is very wide at this point and it is maybe 2 or 3 miles across to the Maryland shore. The town has a great sandy beach and there are even some palm trees.

They also have a seriously large osprey population. I like to think of the osprey as the sea hawk. Their distinctive M-shape wings, with an average 65-inch span, and that unique head which is white with a dark mask across the eyes reaching to the sides of the neck, make them very visible.

And their vision, through their bright golden eyes, is exceptional as well.

They are also unusual as they are one of the only living species whose habitat is nearly worldwide.

Shira and I took some benches at the Black Pearl Tiki Bar and kept an eye on the nearby osprey nest with female, male and young one.

The storms that had been following us caught up a few minutes later and the thing became torrential for a half hour or so. No worries, mon.

We had a drink, great music, and the seahawks to watch!

Skies cleared and we met Kelly and scooted over to Oomboon – a superb restaurant that mixes Thai and French cuisine. Here we met Bob and Steve and had a lovely evening with our friends from the Riverview.

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Day Two

Up early we walked across the small riverside town to Lenny’s, the go-to place for breakfast in Colonial Beach, and then strolled the boardwalk along the river back to the hotel. We had a bit of history on the agenda for later in the day but wanted a bit of beach time too.

The nice thing with a car-sized trunk – we had some folding chairs with us; okay, one was a Kermit Chair and we have carried them around by bikes as well.

But the Riverview is just steps from the empty early morning beach and we grabbed a prime spot between two palm trees and settled for a few hours of swimming and making Vitamin D. The Potomac was very warm and calm and it made for an excellent morning.

Starting to get a little scarlet, we called it a great start to the day – hit the room, the shower and fired up the Audi, and rode back in time to visit the Stratford Hall.

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The Stratford Hall plantation house was built by Thomas Lee in 1738 and would become home to four generations of one family who helped define a nation; Francis Lee, who was known as Lightfoot Lee from his military exploits, and his brother Richard Henry Lee, called Light Horse for his incredible horsemanship and military leadership. Both men were heroes of the American Revolution. The Lees were two of the 56 men who declared our freedom from King George, and the only brothers to have both signed the Declaration of Independence.

Henry Light Horse Lee would have several children and one son would attend West Point. He would graduate second in his class from the United States Military Academy in 1829, and then serve 31 years in the US Army, including three years as superintendent of West Point in the 1850s.

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

He would gain recognition as a scout in the Mexican-American War. In 1859, he led US troops to subdue abolitionist John Brown’s raid at Harper’s Ferry. At the time of his resignation in 1861, he was a Colonel.

At that time, he was asked to lead the Northern Army against the uprising to the south. He reluctantly declined, saying he would not raise arms against the state of Virginia – his home. Instead, he took the commission of the leader of the Southern Army.

His name was Robert Edward Lee. His story and the grounds and The Great House at Stratford Hall are truly amazing.

Just down the road towards the river, a mix of pavement, gravel rock, small gullies, you will come to the cliffs. Over 150 feet high they tower over the river – and it is here you can really go back in history as this was

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

Page 25 flew over our heads and into the nest. Dinner time.

It was dinner time for us too so we moved next door for a semi-nice meal. You can’t win them all, but the company and Shira bringing us all along for an Inside Scoop Ice Cream Run made it all better.

Day Three

once a sea bed and full of primitive shark-toothed porpoises, salt-water crocodiles, sea cows, gopher turtles, rays, whales, and sharks. Thousands of shark teeth found along this area of the Potomac attest to the frequency of the sharks, the largest among them being the Giant Megalodon, with teeth measuring seven inches or more. The Meg was enormous – some grew to 65 feet – think two school buses end to end. So…. Big! Today, families come to the river banks and pan through the sand looking for fossils. We drove down and walked to the beach to talk to a family that already found several bones and sharks teeth – though smaller sharks, no Meg, the Holy Grail of fossil hunters – to be had this day.

Back on the road, we made a stop at James Monroe’s birthplace as well as the boyhood home of His Excellency George Washington.

It is amazing that so many men who changed America’s and the world’s history were raised in this small part of the Potomac River.

We headed back to Colonial Beach and were soon joined by Mark and Betsy Byers.

The Black Pearl was happening again so we took some stools with a view of the river and Maryland in the distance.

We always love when we can get together with the people, like Mark Byers and others, that truly make Backroads what it is.

While at the Black Pearl Betsy pointed out the osprey that had just hit the river and came out with a fish in its talons. It

Packing up the A4 and, saying goodbye to the Riverview, we motored south on Route 3 for a bit and then charged east on VA 624, also known as Flat Iron Road.

If I missed my motorcycle before I really felt it now as Flat Iron was a beauty. A great mix of forest, farms, tight curves, and pleasantly well-paved straights. Indeed, the north/south routes in this part of the state can be tedious, but the east/west cut-throughs were a joy!

Like MacArthur – we will return.

We found breakfast in the town of Gloucester and then went in search of the birthplace of another famous American. This man was in the military as well, but what he discovered saved thousand – and did not take any lives.

Doctor Walter Reed was a U.S. Army pathologist and bacteriologist who led the experiments that proved yellow fever is transmitted by the bite of a mosquito. The Walter Reed Hospital, Washington, D.C., was named in his honor.

Reed’s discovery of the causes of yellow fever is one of the most important contributions in the field of medicine and human history. During the Spanish-American war, more American soldiers died from yellow fever,

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malaria, and other diseases than from combat. His work here led to the near eradication of this disease and allowed for other great things to happen. Without Walter Reed we would have no Panama Canal – it would have been impossible to build it with yellow fever running rampant in the tropics.

As we always say – history is right here if you look for it.

Over the many years that we have been creating Backroads we have followed the different battles, birthplaces, and men and women who made this nation and the Revolutionary War. But, we had never made it to where it finally would come to a close.

Yorktown.

We would change that today as we drove over York River and rode to the place where Washington’s and the Colonial Army’s long struggle would finally triumph.

On September 28, 1781, General George Washington, along with French Admiral Comte de Grasse, commanding a force of 17,000 French and Continental troops, begins the siege known as the Battle of Yorktown

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against British General Lord Charles Cornwallis and a contingent of 9,000 British troops at Yorktown, Virginia, in the most important battle of the Revolutionary War. After three weeks of non-stop bombardment, both day and night, from artillery, Cornwallis surrendered to Washington in the field at Yorktown on October 17, 1781, effectively ending the War for Independence.

Pleading illness, Cornwallis did not attend the formal surrender ceremony, held on October 19. Instead, his second in command, General Charles O’Hara, carried Cornwallis’ sword to the American and French commanders. Cornwallis was a bit pusillanimous, I think.

We took in the Visitors center and did a self-guided tour around the battlefields, the redoubts, the cannons at Surrender Field and Washington’s Headquarters, and the magnificent Yorktown Victory Monument. Created from Hallowell Maine granite, the striking memorial is nearly 100 feet tall and at some 98 feet high, it overlooks the wide harbor of the York River, from which it is visible, and forms a part of the familiar scene that is remembered by the

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many thousands who have seen it in the passing years.

It is full of symbolism, honor, and history and is beautiful to see.

Yorktown deserves its own article here in Backroads – and it will be so.

Now late afternoon we began our vector north, making a stop in Urbana along the Rappahannock River.

Following the signs, we drove down another rough road, past a number of trailers with several black watermen and their families having one hell of a party.

At the end of the road, we found what we were looking for – the Urbana Seafood Market.

We took seats, made our order, and waited to be served a dozen and a half Blue Crabs steamed in Old Bay Seasoning. There was no way we were going down by ‘The Bay’ and not enjoying some beautiful swimmers. They take work and time but are truly worth every crack, break and pick.

From there we headed back north and cut over to the town of Fredericksburg.

We found a chain hotel with a pool and enjoyed our own beautiful swim before heading to Fredericksburg’s Carolyn Street for ice cream and a stroll along the eclectic shops found in this old part of town.

Day Four

How could we pass through Fredericksburg, Virginia, and not visit our friends at Morton’s BMW? They have been huge supporters of this magazine for years and it was nice to drop in on Steve, Stuart, Jeff and Hannah.

We chatted a bit, browsed a bit, and bought a bit; but it was time to head north and home which we slipped into in the early evening.

Stealing a few days here and a few days there makes for an excellent summer and we were not even halfway through.

We found deep history, great food, some excellent roads and got to spend time with good friends old and new – and we even got to be Colonial Beach Bums for a day – road trips do not get any better on two wheels or four! ,

T Page 28

he large group of R18, the new B & Transcontinental, were lined up across the street from the ritzy Halcyon Hotel in the Cherry Creek section of Denver, Colorado.

Last year we had the original R18 and felt, as pretty as it was, it was far BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021 too big a bike for us. Handling was a bit sluggish and you needed to be confident in the tight stuff, as there was a lot of scraping going on.

At the media intro the night before, BMW explained that there had been modifications to the new R18’s chassis and suspension – I hoped that was the case.

Indeed, rolling out of Denver and once underway, the R18 B (B for Bagger) felt far more nimble than the previous year’s model. Still, I learned to appreciate the reverse drive.

BMW R 18 B and Transcontinental

Is

BIGGER

Really BETTER?

Wing n i v e ges: K a m i • thjen a R n a s: Bri d r o w

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021 I was pleasantly surprised that BMW’s work on the chassis – a thicker double-steel backbone and changes to the rake angle – up to 32.7 compared to 27.3 - was making a serious difference. This also added a bit more ground clearance and slightly higher seat height, that we all would need as we headed in the Rockies.

The machine has three power modes. I kept my R18s (we’d switch models after lunch) in Rock-mode all day. Roll was okay and the Rain mode was just silly.

Like The Who sang – Long Live Rock!

On the highway heading towards the town of Golden, the R 18 B happily chugged along at a good 75 mph at just under 3K on the tach.

With a good amount of miles on the big road, I turned on the built-in

Sirius Radio and began to flick through the channels, settling on a station that plays the same kind of music I hear every time I go to a Lowes store. Hey, I am a child of the 60s and 70s. After that, the music died.

BMW has options for Marshall speakers, built into the bike. They put out a serious sound, and I put them on just to get a feel for them. In truth, I try to stay away from riders with loud sound systems. They annoy the hell out of me and that is why we have personal headsets built into our earplugs.

The R 18’s large, 10.25” TFT screen will let you keep an eye on all the information you might need and then some. It is crisp, clear, and easily read.

On the tank, there is a door that opens to allow you to stow and charge your Smart Phone – which plays with the R 18 very well once you download the app. It has a cooling system to keep your phone from overheating while locked away.

I understand this is where we are all going, but I still am a bit of a Luddite with all this.

While in Golden, home of Coors, the Boxer engine, all 1803 CCs (110 cubic inches ) and 288 pounds of it, began to get a bit hot and the TFT screen told me just that. This is an air-cooled machine, and it likes to be ridden in an easy-going manner.

With this big engine came plenty of low-end grunt, but a canyon racer this is not and this was apparent as we headed into the twisty parts of this day’s route.

The brakes worked smoothly and with gusto – which was much needed to slow this “Big Honkin’ Bike” down while heading into the tighter turns.

Our lunch stop for today’s ride would be The Stanley Hotel, in Estes Park. This grand old place is

Page 29 mostly known for being the impetus for Stephen King’s ‘The Shining’ and a good deal of the film was shot here.

I looked for Jack, but could not find him – but we did find Room 217 that he hatcheted to pieces. It was blocked off, but making nice with the cleaning staff I got to see it.

After lunch, I swapped from the B to the Transcontinental.

Set up with an additional top case and cushier saddle (that pivots when you move around) it adds another 65 lbs. to the party.

Although many of the other moto-scribes preferred the B over the Transcontinental – I was having more fun on the bigger bike.

Perhaps I had gotten used to all the weight or maybe this machine was set up better than the B from earlier in the day.

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Like they say… “Never buy a bike that was built on a Monday morning!”

I try not to nitpick when on press rides, but the bike comes with a Heel / Toe Shifter, and they were not set up well from Germany, making up shift difficult with a banging of my heel each time. During lunch, techs made an adjustment to the H/T’s position and things got a bit better shiftingwise.

But nothing is perfect.

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

Earlier I had the brakes fade a bit, on some of the canyon roads with their major elevation changes, and the clutch got a bit tired and slippery as well.

As I stated, in Golden, while doing photography, I had a warning prompt across the TFT that said the machine was getting hot and “Ride at Slow Speed” to cool it down. This would be a recurring issue.

Up in the mountains I got into the groove of pushing this big bike through the curves and once in the turns, the R 18, in both versions, was sure-footed and well-planted.

As is the way with Media Intros the dash back to Denver was on the fast side. But no police got involved – thankfully.

The bike features BMW’s new Ative Crise Contro. This new ACC has three control features. Dynamic Cruise Control (DCC) regulates the riding speed set by the rider. Active Cruise Control (ACC) regulates the selected speed in consideration of the distance to preceding vehicles set by the rider. If necessary, the curve control feature of the ACC will automatically reduce your speed, enabling you to hit the curve at a comfortable

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

lean angle. As the lean angle increases, the braking and acceleration dynamics are limited. This helps you to ride in a stable manner.

The ACC gives you full control: As a rider, you are always in control and have the option of making changes at any time.

But, this sort of fast-paced riding brought up the recurring clutch and brake fades. And, riding into Denver, after ten minutes of stop and go piloting through Denver traffic back to the hotel, my TFT went red and it instructed me to pull the machine off the road and turn it off until it could cool down.

Both the R 18s I rode had heating issues in slowspeed city traffic. Perhaps BMW can and will address these issues.

As I had said about the original R 18 – these bikes

are visually stunning – truly works of art, especially the very cool Galaxy Dust paint job that is offered as an option.

It is the Kim Kardashian of motorcycles. Big and sexy with “huge tracks of land!” (Okay, I mean displacement).

But, although I’d love to walk hand in hand with Kimmy down Main Street in Daytona, I would never bring her home to meet my mother.

That being said this is my opinion. As the years have gone by I have gotten into far more nimble rides, but there is a huge market and thousands of riders who prefer big rigs.

If this is you then the BMW R 18 B and Transcontinental might be just right for you.

Pricing for the 2022 R 18 B starts at $21,945 and the R 18 Transcontinental starts at $24,995. Available at your local BMW dealership now. ,

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words: John Cirabassi • images: Joe Parks and Penny Wheeler For long time readers of Backroads Magazine, you know how much great riding, both the pavement and off-pavement varieties, there is in the Keystone State. From the Poconos, to along the Delaware, out west along Route 6 and, of course, the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon. But there is a little slice of heaven nestled between these locations that goes unnoticed to many two-wheeled explorers. Bradford and Sullivan Counties along PA’s Northern Tier offers miles of remote forest roads and awe-inspiring vistas.

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021 It’s an area of the state that the modern world has graciously left alone.

My wife, Elise, and I worked as veterinarians in the region back in the ‘80s when we were fresh out of school and newly married. In 4 short years the place left an indelible place in our hearts and even though we left to be with family in the Chicago area, the soul of the place never left us. So when we started coming back to the area for longer stays, I brought along my passion for Adventure Motorcycling and discovered so much that I never knew existed. And my excitement peaked when I met Frank Watson and Dean Vanderpool. Local Cantonites (Cantonians?) who were putting together an Adventure Rally based right in Canton. To say I was stoked would have been an understatement.

Early registrants on Friday night were treated to a theater showing of the Mid-Atlantic Backcountry Discovery Route (MABDR) movie. For those unfamiliar with the MABDR it is one of 11 Adventure motorcyclefriendly, mostly off-pavement routes put together by the volunteer organization, Backcountry Discovery Routes, with 9 routes found out west and 2 routes in the east. You can find out more at ridebdr.com.

Together Frank, Dean and myself mapped out a 160-mile ride on Saturday, September 25th and 60 miles on the 26th. Saturday’s ride covered about every forest road between Canton and World’s End State Park along with the quiet beauty of Sunfish and Sonnes Ponds. PA is known

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

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for its large number of overlooks and Bradford/Sullivan Counties are no exception.

Places like Band Rock Vista, Sharp Top and High Knob gave participants on the ride expansive views of deep valleys and rolling hills. This loop also included a stop at historic Barclay Cemetery with graves dating back to the early 1800s.

In addition, we paid a visit to the memorial constructed by former Trials champion Jerry Young to commemorate the Roaring Branch, PA location of the US round of the 1978 World Trials Championship won by Californian and World Champ, Bernie Schreiber.

Sunday’s loop wound its way through the wooded acres up

on top of Armenia Mountain and rolling farm fields east of Canton.

What would a loop on the weekend be without another vista and Sunday didn’t disappoint with a trek up on top of Lamb’s View overlooking the Route 14 valley and Barclay Mountain. Sunday also saw 97-year old, AMA hall-of-famer “Fast Eddie” Fisher running rings around some of the younger riders on his Can Am Spyder with his bride riding pillion.

Pennsylvania teacher and folk singer, Van Wagner, entertained participants and locals Saturday night singing some of his original tunes, giving all a taste of Northern Tier history while gathered around a campfire.

Funds collected for the weekend went to support the Canton Lions Club and its charities along with the Canton volunteer fire department.

Lunch on Saturday was provided by the fire department of Shunk, PA and helped to support all their good work.

So, if you are looking to explore some pristine forest roads, vistas and waterfalls pencil in the last weekend of September 2022 as this is the preliminary date for the ride next year. We look forward to showing you a part of the state that time forgot.

“So next time you’re on the road and feeling shaky in your soul, take your watch and throw it away. Come up North just for a day. Once your life learns to breathe, you’ll find it so hard to leave. Don’t be surprised if your tracks disappear and you’re surrounded by a future up here.”

Van Wagner. North of 80

Page 34

Many years since I was here On the street, I was passin’ my time away To the left and to the right Mountains towering to the sky, it’s outta sight Ridin’ in the dead of night Here I am, and at this rally with a fistful of dollars, and baby… you’d better believe I’m back, back in the New York groove I’m back, back in the New York groove I’m back, back in the New York groove….

For days an odd south to north tempest had been soaking the eastern part of the United States from the deep south into Canada.

We had been down in Virginia, for a long-planned two days at VIR with CLASS, then Americade announced their late September dates for 2021.

That being the case and not missing an Americade in 31 years (Yikes, that was scary to write), we booked a room at a new to us lodging in Warrensburg – The Bond 1786 – and after making our way home from the Virginia / North Carolina border in a steady and very hard downpour, we parked the bikes for a day and waited for the never-ending rain to cease and desist.

Friday morning we woke to brilliant sun and puffy clouds if significantly chillier temperatures.

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

Shira surprised me when she asked if she could just ride pillion on my bike, but who would not want a sexy redhead holding on to them all weekend?!

We left early and took the big roads north, making a very good time indeed. It’s amazing what you will find on the New York State Thruway – Bigfoot Hunters, all sorts of cars, and the men who do the incredibly tough job of New York State Trooper SCUBA Recovery.

We were in Lake George strolling into the Tour Expo by 1 pm. Although not as big as past years, they still had several folks selling some great gear and some that were not all that rider-related, but were some of the things we bought – go figure.

We ran into a few of our advertisers and a lot of friends and readers as well. We spent a few hours roaming around and then rode to Warrensburg, just a few miles north of the village, and found The Bond 1786.

The place was fabulous, with the most gorgeous grounds. A cup of coffee and a book finished off the afternoon on the large outdoor porch.

Early evening found us back in Lake George and meeting our off-road maven Tony Lisanti and friends for dinner at The Barnsider on Route 9, just south of the village and where we

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

also met Shel Huber and Pam Johnson, the dynamic duo behind our local Bike Night at Jumboland, in Branchville, New Jersey.

The rest of the evening was spent doing a lap of Canada Street, watching the great fireworks display, and pointing out the Lake George Mystery Spot to anyone who got close. It is amazing! It wouldn’t be a night at Americade if we didn’t get at least one scoop of ice cream somewhere.

We met our friends Fred & Cherrie for breakfast. Over the years we have met and made friends with many people in the motorcycle industry, and Fred and Cherri Rau are among the most awesome!

We walked around the Demo Area – Yamaha, KTM, Honda, Indian, Triumph, and BMW all brought machines to test – but we wished that BMW had brought a few other models than just the new R18.

Page 35

We have been up this way countless times, yet somehow were unaware of a cottage just to the south, of great historical importance.

Atop Mount McGregor, just south of the town of Corinth, you will find the final home of President Ulysses S. Grant.

The great general and nation’s leader was suffering from throat cancer and the prognosis was bleak and getting darker by the day. He and his family moved to the cottage atop the summit for him to find relief and allow him time to finish his memoirs that were published by Samuel Clemons, also known by his pen name Mark Twain, with his own funds. The book was a huge success and President Grant, when he died on July 23, 1885, passed knowing his beloved family would be well financially. The tour and the grounds are well worth the visit and you will leave with a deeper understanding of the General who saved the nation and the President who help guide it as well.

I had planned a slightly over-ambitious day trip, but we were able to seek out a bucolic ice cream stop for Shira’s Inside Scoop and scooted into Vermont and then, realizing we’d never be back in time for early dinner, we Plan B’d and re-routed back to Warrensburg.

Our Inn, The Bond 1786, has one of the top restaurants in the region and we found out why that evening with a quiet meal – just the two of us. This is a sister establishment to the Gristmill, also of Warrensburg, which had a tragic fire over this past winter.

Thus our move to The Bond 1786.

Page 36

Later that night we took seats for Alonzo Boden’s show. Alonzo is not just one of the sharpest and quick-witted comedians on the planet – but is a big-time lover and rider of motorcycles. You might know him from NPR’s Wait, Wait Don’t Tell Me or his many cable specials; but he is one of us and he skewered everyone equally – especially those silly enough to sit in the front row. Take that as a warning!

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

Ice cream was sought out on Canada Street and surprisingly Alonzo showed up too, so we got to chat with him a bit before mounting up and heading out of the village that was getting a bit loud and raucous at that time on a Saturday night.

We were up and out at 8 am, riding over to Oscars to pick up some bacon and various sausages to bring home to Backroads Central.

We had come up to Lake George looking to make time on the Interstates, but this bright, if chilly, Sunday morning we had all the time in the world – well, at least till the sunset, to get home, so it was along the tiny, semi-unknown and forgotten backroads we rode.

As always, we combined work and play finding another ice cream stop and taking in the site of the ‘Last Battle of the Revolutionary War’ – both in Johnstown, New York.

Later on we stumbled upon the site of the Cherry Valley Massacre, something even O’Life did not know about. As we have said time and again… our history is right in front of us if we’d only slow down and really take a look.

I pride myself in being a ‘Road Whisperer;’ but have been lax lately in finding fuel stops. Not a problem I thought, with 60 miles to go on the BMW’s TFT display. Then 50, 40… we had 6 to go and the station was more than a few miles past that. Seeing a big zero staring me in the face, and with the town of Margaretville on the other side of the mountain and Sunoco to be found there, I sipped precious gas over the peak and then did a long coast on the descent.

According to the amount I filled this afternoon I was going to be pushing in a short while if not for the long and silent glider flight down the mountain.

We found lunch in town as well at the Bun N’ Cone heading out of the town - which was excellent – and then we headed through more familiar haunts – Big Indian, Frost Valley, and then south towards the New Jersey border.

The day was capped off with pie, ice cream, and coffee at the Elias Cole and then the short blast down 519 to home.

We typically spend a good long week up at Americade, but CLASS took a higher priority this year, especially as we’d be up by Friday regardless keeping our Americade streak holding fast and strong at 31 years and counting. COVID be dammed.

And, although we did our own thing this year, there was so much to be found at Americade. There always is. Charity rides, guided and self-guided tours, seminars, the Knights of the Round Table, so many bikes to demo, the Ride for Kids and so much more.

Next year Americade will be back in its traditional time of year – June 7 through 11 – we hope to run into you there. , ~ Brian Rathjen

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

Sunday.

I have it on good authority that the Gods do not want you to play golf, or veg on the couch watching the team du jour get pummeled.

I believe that the Gods Asphaltium, Macadamous, and Roadisious wish us to ride motorcycles. And, now and again they provide the perfect Sunday to do just this.

Page 37 I had an interesting one of these in May. I had just brought a new bike into the stable. A 2019 Kawasaki Z900RS. For those of you who were around and riding back in the early 70s, the Kawasaki Z-1 more or less ruled the streets. I had one back then and am very sorry that my 19-year-old brain did not realize just what I had and I spent all my free time abusing the machine as only a 19-year old kid would. This new 900Z came in those same colors - Root Beer and Orange!

My favorite color scheme.

So, when the opportunity arose to purchase a new “old-style” Z I jumped at the chance.

My brother-in-law Jan was up to Backroads Central the next week. He asked if I was going to put bags on it. “Nope – it stays this way – perhaps a small RKA Tank Bag – just to carry some things”, I replied. “Oh, so it’s a Sunday bike…”

Exactly.

Jan has very good taste in a wide variety of things. He liked the Z-1. I liked that he liked it too.

A few weeks later I had a rare Sunday to myself as Shira had to attend a Bridal Shower for our friend Maria’s daughter Victoria. The odd thing is that I was married to Maria at one time – pre-Shira – but as I headed out on, in my mind, a reborn ‘73 Z-1 I realized that both women that I have married were drinking wine and partying together 100-miles away. Strange things happen in the world.

My Brian-Do list for that Sunday was complete, basically lawn care & vehicle maintenance. By mid-after-

Page 38

noon, showered and fresh, I rolled the Z900 out of the barn. It amazes me how light and tiny it is next to my war horse BMW R1250GS. It was a warm day, in the mid-80s, so I went for my vented gear that just so happens to have a splash of orange on it. A quick ride into Newton for a full tank and I was off.

Sunny Sunday – just me and my bike 4 days shy of my 63rd trip around the sun.

As Joe Jackson sang: You better believe it, you know my dream’s still alive.

You can love it or leave it, but I’m never gonna be 35.

No, I was gonna be 63. Yikes!

We all have our own little motorcycle loops and I have given mine away in these pages many times. So, it was not at all too strange that this midSunday afternoon I scooted through Branch and Beemervilles’ along County Road 519, our personal test track owned and maintained by the state of New Jersey.

It was way past lunchtime and, slightly famished, I headed to the Elias Cole. Nancy and her crew do everything fresh and although there is noth-

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

ing I would not eat on their menu I had a hankerin’ for some fried chicken, which the Elias Cole does superbly. They also have the best pies in the region.

Now with bike and belly full, I headed up and over High Point and down the twisty part of Route 23 before making a left onto Clove Road.

This road was once listed as one of the most dangerous roads in New Jersey. Certainly, it has its share of curvy hills and decreasing radius turns, so for us, it is one of the most fun roads in New Jersey.

I made a right on Weider Road, as I had never been down this particular piece of pavement. It led to County Road 521 – called River Road.

River Road continues on the other side of Route 206 and into National Park Service land is one of the oldest roads in the nation.

The sign that sits in front of the old Bell House says the road was started around 1650 – that’s more than 100 years before the French & Indian

BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021 War. This just might be the oldest road in the nation.

The National Park Service might consider a little maintenance as it is bombed out! Rut city.

Just south of Route 206 you will find Westbrook-Bell House. Spying the sign…and the other sign that said No Entry – Emergency Vehicles Only…I thought I’d mosey up the dirt and gravel drive to get a look at the house.

Easy and barely an inconvenience.

What I found was truly remarkable.

This small stone house was built Johannes Westbrook around 1701, and is one of three still standing which formed the village of Minisink. It was built in two different parts. The oldest, possibly predating 1730, contains what may be a secret Indian cellar. The Indian cellar was used to hide from unfriendly natives. Still, for the most part, the Dutch settlers to this region lived peacefully with local tribes.

The house was extensively remodeled in the 1860s, and again in 1955, but still maintains the intimacy and charm it originally possessed.

Just behind the barns, and on the property of an adjacent farm, a hole in the ground and a few stones mark the site of the Westbrook, one of a chain of seven forts along the Delaware constructed for defense against Indians. Today tall maples stand guard. Johannes Westbrook, an early settler, deeded land in 1731 to the people of the Minisink for a cemetery and a schoolhouse.

Continuing south I cut across the county road leading to Dingman’s Bridge – one of the only privately owned bridges in the nation.

This road leads up and over, first into Peters Valley and then down into the Walpack Valley. The actual town of Walpack, the oldest in Sussex County, has become a ghost town after the federal government’s land buyout in the 1960s for the now-shelved Tocks Island Dam project.

Page 39 Back in the day, Henry Ford lent a touch of glamour to postal work in 1932 when he produced a film about his automobiles and new V-8 engine outside the Walpack Post Office. The office then served more than 100 customers and people were as likely to ask for a roll of stamps as for a lump of butter and eggs from the general store that adjoined the Post Office.

Today the valley is a hidden gem of the Garden State. The Flat Brook draws fly fishermen from the region and Buttermilk Falls can be stunning after a hard rain.

Not so much this day.

On the southern end, a steel bridge crosses the creek and led me past historic Millbrook Village.

Heading into the backroads of the region I rode past Camp NoBeBosco, now a Boy Scout Camp but once the home of Jason Voorhees, for this is where the original Friday the 13th was filmed. My route would bring me down Millbrook Road – a super downhill stretch of very twisty miles that demands total and serious concentration.

With my Sunday in the Park just about finished I rewarded myself with some coffee and ice cream from the Garriss General Store and then hustled my way back north on County Road 521 and home to Backroads Central.

Sunday is fun day and nothing works better than a ride through the park whether you’re 19 or 63. , ~ Brian Rathjen

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BACKROADS • NOVEMBER 2021

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The Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. presents

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully

A column dedicated to your riding survival problem area that motorcyclists are motivated to solve. One of the most STREET SKILLS ONLINE COURSE FOR MOTORCYCLISTS self-recognizable skill deficiencies is cornering ability.

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The Street Skills LLC motorcycling school has reached hundreds of enrollments in their Cornering Confidence interactive self-paced online course. These riders have increased their skills in an unconventional, but effective way. “My digital course is a game changer for experienced motorcyclist training,” said Jon DelVecchio, instructor and curriculum writer at Street Skills.

Jon’s online course and book teach and focus on a specific cornering method, formula, recipe. It’s short and to the point.

Street Skills has a creative solution to solve the problem of unskilled motorcyclists. Its unique Cornering Confidence online course provides underserved motorcyclists with the skills necessary for enjoyment and safety. The Cornering Confidence online course is an interactive self-paced learning experience designed to increase motorcycling skills in a short period of time. The course is available on any digital device, at any time and place the student chooses and at a reasonable price.”

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Jon’s proprietary course curriculum teaches a simplified cornering method, or formula, that targets a

The online course stands out from traditional live face-to-face training because students do not have to travel to a physical location to receive advanced instruction which can be hundreds of miles away.

Regardless of location, many live courses have limited offerings, which may not work with student calendars of availability. Students access Jon’s course on their computer or digital device when they have discretionary time.

Techniques are practiced and self-evaluated through students’ regular riding activities or purposeful practice on their own motorcycles.

Jon’s online course is inexpensive relative to other training options. Live advanced courses range in price from $150-$3,000. The online course is priced well below that. Introductory tuition for the basic online course is only $50.

“In today’s world of smart phones and digital connectivity,” said Jon, “it makes more sense now than ever to learn how to ride a motorcycle online.”

This unique method for taking motorcycling skills to the next level is becoming quite attractive and shows strong growth potential. Jon’s course was selected by the Motorcycle Industry Council as a 2021 Gas Tank Challenge finalist.

Several interactive Cornering Confidence online course packages are available to any motorcyclist interested in developing their skills. Visit CorneringConfidence.com for more information. ,