October 2017

Chasing the Colors Northeast Tour of Mother Nature’s Seasonal Palette

SQUEEZING A RALLY INTO THE SUMMER • DIRTY RIDING IN VERMONT • COLORFUL ROAD TOURS RIDE • EAT • SLEEP • DISCOVER

W H A T ’ S

I N S I D E

MO NT HLY C O L U M NS

25 Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................4 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................5 POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................6 ON THE MARK ....................................................7

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors

Mark Byers, Victor Cruz, Bill Heald, Josh Karvakko, Andrew Prince, Rick Rodriquez Dr. Seymour O’Life

BACKLASH..........................................................8 INDUSTRY INFOBITES .....................................11 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA..................................14 BIG CITY GETAWAY .........................................16

32

Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ..............18 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ........................................20 INSIDE SCOOP .................................................23 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE ............................47 UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ...................48

FE AT U RE S CHASING THE COLORS 2017 ..........................25 SUMMER SQUEEZE 2017 ...............................32 DIRTY VERMONT .............................................39 SCHOODIC SCENIC BYWAY ...........................40 RIDE FOR CHEESE AND PUPPETS .................42 TOURING THE COLORS - NOT........................45

45

PR O DU C T R E V IE W S TAMRAC 5606 SYSTEM 6 CAMERA BAG ......13 SENA 20S EVO BLUETOOTH ..........................41 J&M PEFORMANCE BT-03 BLUETOOTH .......44

ON THE COVER: Our friend Bill’s classic BMW making a splash in the fall colors.

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2017. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

Page 4

OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN

Over StreSSed & Under PreSSUred Each month in Backroads we aspire to bring to you different facets and points that will make your riding safer and more enjoyable.

Time and again we have mentioned tires and the proper care of them.

Tires are remarkable things. Since the advent of pneumatic tires, motorized travel has flourished and tires, easily as much as any other part of a motorcycle, have advanced in incredible ways.

Still, even as well-designed and modern as tires come these days, they all have a life. And, akin to human life they can simply get older and not work like they used too (sound familiar?) or sometimes, like us, things happen to a tire in a quicker and more impactful way.

The thing with tires is to be watchful and aware of when things begin to fade away – like handling characteristics, wear or gradual loss of pressure that sneaks up on you over a few days or even weeks.

Early in the spring I had put a new set of Pirelli Scorpion Trail II tires on my GS. Since then they have been run day to day, at our Spring break rally, various overnight tours and then a long 5,000-mile journey to the ragged edge of North America – Newfoundland.

Coming back from Canada I was well aware that, even though they still look menza-menza, they had seen better days. I began making a plan to swap them out for a new set of rubber.

In early July we went on an overnight rally - the Ramapo 500, the largest road tour of its type in the region and now in its 41 year.

Always a great time it brought riders over hill and dale, through valleys across three states and along some twisty and sometimes challenging roads.

My last few hundred miles on our Newfoundland trip were finished off on the US Interstate system and now, a few weeks later, on more intricate asphalt

the Pirellis that were a phenomenally great tire just did not offer the confidence they once had. Nearly 7,000 hard miles had stressed them out of their useable life.

Stopping for lunch I looked at the rear tire, which had a solid flat spot down the center and then ran my hand over the front that looked fine, but my swipe revealed that it had heavily scalloped in the last few hundred miles.

Knowing I had just a few hundred to go before I could replace them I was unworried, but dialed my ride back a bit, as the bike felt more Pee Wee Herman than Valentino Rossi. That was okay – the beautiful route would have been fun riding a bicycle.

Shira had taken her Honda 919 for this ride. She rarely rides it and this day she was running a fairly new set of Avon Storm 3D – a most excellent sport-touring tire. They had just about 2,000 miles on them – in the prime of their young rubbery lives.

At the campsite our friend Helene walks up and says “Shira – is that a screw in your tire?”

Of course it was…

How can others see a small screw head in your tire from 100 feet away? I believe it is some sort of optical science or the Road Gods giving others some Oracle of Delphi vision for a minute or two.

The screw, a full three inches long, went in between the tread on the tire at a really, really odd angle.

Ha… of course it did.

And, when pulled, there was a complete loss of pressure- quickly and loudly.

Another thing to take note of is the scientific fact that when you pull out some tools, no matter how stealthily and covertly, a small crowd of wellwishers, old motocross riders and onlookers will gather. It’s like a calliope organ had begun to pump and a Carny Barker appeared next to your bike and began to bellow…

“STEP RIGT UP, STEP RIGHT UP! COME SEE THE WOEFULLY INEPT HUSBAND TRY TO FIX HIS BEAUTIFUL WIFE’S TIRE!!!!”

Continued on Page 22

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017

WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL

WelcOme hOme, little Yella At some point in the life of a motorcycle, one has to determine if it’s worth putting more money into the little, and sometimes big, things that need fixing, changing, repairing, etc. While 65,000 miles is certainly not busting the mileage chart on my BMW F650GS, it had come time to consider what the next pony in the stable might be.

We had made a quick stop on our way up to Newfoundland at this year’s DirtDaze and Americade, perusing the vendor area, checking out the demo site and visiting the Painted Pony Ranch in Lake Luzerne. While at DirtDaze, the Suzuki demo fleet was returning from their route scouting ride and in the pack was the new V-Strom 650XT. I spied it entering, said to Brian that this bike was a beauty, and followed it to its parking spot, where I gazed lustfully at its vibrant yellow and black paint and shiny gold spoke wheels. Approaching Avery Innis, head of Suzuki’s media department, I asked if I might take a seat. He, of course, said yes and I hopped on, only to find that given my vertically challenged position, one or the other leg was left dangling in the air. He said that this was the regular seat height and there was a lowered seat option, but they did not have one at the rally. I walked away, filing all this information in my database for future searching once home.

Pandora’s box had been open, and once back from our ventures to the north, I looked at the specs on the V-Strom. It all looked great on paper, but the problem was that none of our local dealers had it in stock, let alone with

Page 5 a lowered seat. Not to worry, my two rides were perfectly fine, with the BMW just having a full service and feeling better than ever. Eventually I’d get around to testing the V-Strom to see if it truly fit the bill.

While I’m the type to let things play out, Brian is more of the make things happen person. He was busy contacting folks, tracking down this elusive beast, and trying to secure one for a ride, all without my knowledge. In the mean time, I was posting on social media, asking for opinions on the bike, with pretty much everyone sending glowing reviews of every V-Strom they had ever ridden, urging me to make the move and get the ‘Wee’ as they so affectionately called it.

Fast forward – we were just about to head out for a two-week journey through the Normandy region of France when we get a call from our friend Tony. Tony has decided to take the day off from work and asked if we wanted to meet him for lunch in Ossining. Sure, that would be great, we’ll see you around 1pm. Since I was going to be co-pilot on this overseas trip, Brian asked if I’d take a back seat on this day’s ride ‘to get used to it.’ Sure, honey, that would be fine.

So off we go, on a beautiful sunny day, for a lunch date. Just as we’re getting close, we pass Hudson Valley Motorcycles, coincidentally in the town of Ossining. We were early for lunch, so we made a stop to say hello to Duane and crew. As we pulled in, I made the remark, ‘You think they’ll have one of those V-Stroms with a lowered seat?’ Brian said that no one has them yet, so don’t count on it. Entering, Duane said his hello and asked us to excuse him for a second, he just had to finish something and he’d be right back. We took a look around the well-stocked shop and when Duane returned, he asked us to take a look outside at this bike they’d just gotten in, he thought we might be interested in it. Wonders of wonders, as I walked out the front door I saw the vision of beauty that is the yellow and black 650XT. Miss Naiveté, I exclaim that is just the motorcycle I’ve been looking for. Duane informs me that this one has a lowered seat. Oh my, may I sit on it? Why of course, he says. Just like Goldilocks, I say ‘This one is just right, and it will Continued on Page 22

Page 6

OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

of what something means that comes from someplace else entirely. As for people who knowingly embrace the actual Confederate history, well, that’s a whole ‘nuther kettle of barracuda.

BILL HEALD So Confederate is now Curtiss. This brings up something I love about the world of motorcycles, cars, airplanes, ships, and language in general. I find the naming Of the ScOOt it to be kismet when a company names a motorcycle (or car, ship, airplane, A missive sent through the tubes of the interetc.) so perfectly it helps breathe life into the sucker. I mean, there are some webs revealed the name of sender Brian Rathjen; real jewels out there that fit the machine’s persona with such precision I can’t a welcome communicator that often brings tidimagine them being anything but soulless toasters with wheels without their ings of moto-info. In this communiqué Brian told name. I guess what I’m saying is that a fitting title can be downright transme that the company formerly known as Confederate Motorcycles was now formative. Some examples, perhaps? One has not experienced the true going to be called Curtiss Motorcycles, and the reason according to the LA Kawasaki sport bike until you have bonded with a Ninja. Then there’s Times article he referenced had to do with the negative connotations associHarley-Davidson. The names are plenty, but a good example is when they ated with the Confederate name these days. Oh, and put their big-ass boot firmly on the ground o Confederate is now Curtiss. This brings up stating that this, my friends, is a polished, conthey are also going all-electric, through a relationship something I love about the world of motorcy- temporary long-haul touring mount when they with Zero Motorcycles. How do I feel about all this? I cles, cars, airplanes, ships, and language in know you’re just dyin’ to know so I will state I don’t launched the ElectraGlide. Would we really general. I find it to be kismet when a company names have any deep philosophical thoughts on this fascinat- a motorcycle (or car, ship, airplane, etc.) so perfectly it have a legendary Triumph that occupied its ing development. I will say this, though. As for the helps breathe life into the sucker. own permanent niche in the motorcycle world company and their motorcycles, I wrote about one of if not for the name Bonneville? Honda has had their models once (just as an overview) for a Men’s magazine, and I found some great names for models over the years, but for some reason the original my article to be deeply flawed and uninspiring.

Valkyrie has always been my favorite. That bike WAS a Valkyrie, with its But I think the real story here is the name. Next to the word “hurricane,” thunderous power and clear mission to take you to Valhalla. Since this whole the word “Confederate” has been in the news quite a bit lately, and as I grew screed was spawned by the name of a company and not just an individual up in the South (Texas) I have seen my share of both the name and the flag bike, I thought the name Victory was a great choice for a motorcycle concern. that has been a divisive symbol for ages. What I find interesting (and is a Of course the company is now no more, so the Victory itself was short-lived problem with many words and symbols) is most of the people I knew, young (compared to some other makes, anyway). In the realm of non-optimal comteenagers at the time who were into the Confederacy and the symbols, had pany names, remember when I mentioned Zero Motorcycles earlier? What absolutely no clue what they actually stood for. They just thought “Rebel. were they thinking? Yeah, I know they probably meant zero emissions, but Yeah, that’s me” and used it as a point of pride, never thinking much about do you really want to plunk down a substantial pile of cash and literally get what the Civil War was really all about. In my mind, they grew up with that, nothing in return? Crikey, get a dictionary, people. and it became part of their worldview and now as adults they can’t understand But I kid Zero Motorcycles. Honestly, I feel sorry for them. They could why anyone would rebel at their rebellious symbolism. I mean this purely as have had a comprehensive review of their latest ride by a seasoned journalist an observation for those who are shocked how anybody would embrace the on these very pages if only they’d answer their email. But I’m not bitter.

Confederate imagery, given the actual history of America’s bloodiest war.

Well, I am, but not about these correspondence-challenged chumps. No, I’m Many people see things a certain way, based on a completely different image Continued on Page 22

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ON THE MARK MARK ByERS

learning tO PlaY Mark Knopfler has a lot of guitars. Over the years, the Dire Straits front man acquired quite a few, from Martin D-18 acoustics he uses to write songs to vintage Les Paul Gold Tops on which he caresses out the amazing “Brothers In Arms.” For “Sultans of Swing,” he uses a red Stratocaster, the Ducati 916 of guitars in my view. He is capable of getting the maximum out of any guitar on the planet. And that, my friends, is where this ride is going.

I look at that lacquered red masterpiece on which Knopfler creates his otherworldly sounds and I’m envious. One night, after watching him on YouTube, I told myself that I should get one of those red Strats because they’re such things of beauty. Just having one sitting on a stand would be so amazing. I’d take it and hold it and dream of fronting my own blues/rock band.

Then, I realize the folly of my thoughts. I can’t play a guitar – not a single chord. As much as I love their sound and admire their masters, making them speak is beyond my current comprehension. It would be like walking into a bar in a foreign land and trying to converse in the local tongue. For me to have a guitar, any guitar, especially something as artful as a red Strat, would be disrespectful to the luthier. So, at least for now, I’ll leave guitars to those who can massage pleasing sounds from them.

And then, there are motorcycles. I lust after a lot of motorcycles, but they deserve the same respect I’d give the Strat. Unlike playing the guitar, however, I can, at times, coax respectable rides out of a number of motorcycles. I’ve learned to ride around the quirks of the budget front suspension on my SV-650 and be smooth enough at VIR to earn an attaboy from Pridmore. I’ve had similar success with the dreamier, and more nicely suspended, Street Triple R. It’s not a Ducati 916, but it’s my black Strat. I’m still no Knopfler on wheels, however.

Frankly, I’m not a 916 rider. As beautiful as they, and all their “9-series” derivatives are, I do not think I’m the maestro they need to play the kind of music of which they are capable. Oh sure, I could wind the power on down the front straight and listen to the magnificent booms emanating from twin Termignoni drums, but at Turn 1, I’d be heavy on the Brembos and my 54-yearold conservatism would have me dogging it through the double apex. Hell, I’ve yet to scar my kneesliders.

Maybe this fall I can change that, hopefully without scuffing the bike or other parts of my leathers. Just like I know a guitar is capable of amazing things, I know my

Page 7 bikes are too. I just need to learn to play them more adeptly. It’s hard – track days eat dollars like Godzilla ate Tokyo, only faster. Five hours down, five hours back, two Dunlops, brake pads, oil change, a room, meals, and two days off work. But the lessons! It’s rewarding when you learn to play Turn 4 like the difficult bent note that it is. The lessons are wonderful; it’s the practice that’s hard.

And practice I must. With track “studios” few and literally far between, it leaves me with the much more modest and restrictive roads and I will not test the limits of my musical knowledge on them. I think I practice being a solid road rider each time I go out, but the sheet music of the terrain around here is both elementary and restrictive. But in the two-wheeled world, practicing the basic chords of riding is what keeps us intact. You better be able to play a simple blues progression when that minivan pulls out in front of you.

I see a lot of people out there who have beautiful two-wheeled instruments, but whose musical knowledge leaves quite a bit to be desired. Like a lot of bar bands, they think volume is a substitute for quality, so when they wind the power on down Route 210, it’s like a distorted version of “Don’t Fear the Reaper” without the cowbell. Maybe someday I’ll go out and buy the used, vintage Honda 250 version of a guitar on which to learn. And maybe someday I’ll have a bright, red Ducati. But in guitars and motorcycles, if you’re going to have something beautiful, it is best that you know how to play.

Page 8

OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

BACKLASH Hi Backroads, Hope you are well. Thought you might enjoy this project: Lego Technic kit of the R1200GS for a birthday gift to our grandson Brayden.

Took a couple of camping trips to complete but was a fun project.

Shira, I like your new bike!

Best of luck.

Best regards, glenn hoffmann

Summer Squeeze Brian and Shira, Thank you both for organizing a terrific event. I really enjoyed the Kitzhof Inn and everyone’s hospitality.

Brian, I know we both learned something: don’t go on dirt roads with a “caution - road grading” sign. I’ll never forget it. I was literally sweating bullets.

And Shira, I’m the deaf guy you were hollering at in the Gray Ghost’s lot to get the turn by turn ride directions.. Please accept my apology. My ear

Letters to the Editor plugs were in, with my BlueTooth communication playing Sirius Margaritaville music.

The rides, the venues, the food, and the company were all first rate. This was my first BackRoads event and I am planning on many more.

Ken Krieger, Pe Ken, As long as you were listening to Jimmy Buffet, all is forgiven.

See you on the road soon.

Kind Words….

Brian and Shira, I have been riding for a very long time now and your magazine is the best on the market. I ride with GWRRA NY Chapter X and have started to really count on your issues to plan rides for the group. I don’t think we ever would have known about Chatterbox and their great bike night without Backroads.

Last night was spent at the Boathouse Restaurant and this weekend we are doing a breakfast run to Elias Cole. Thank you again for all your help with making ride planning easier. ron Breau • road capt. gWrra chapt. X Wow, such a nice note to receive. Thank you for the kind words! We try.

Hey Backroads, Thought of you while on the road. Wonder why? tony lisanti

Almost Heaven – West Virginia Hi Backroads, My boyfriend, being a motorcycle enthusiast, loves your magazine and is always jealous of your trips. I read it as well since I’m a Mini Cooper (convertible) enthusiast and found that your magazine has a lot of trips with roads that are totally MINI Cooper friendly. (she loves going “Zoom, Zoom” too!)

Well, two nights before Chris’s 50th birthday he still hadn’t decided how he wanted to spend his milestone.

I took all his Backroads magazines, tossed them on his lap and said, “ Pick something!” He went through a few and came up with West Virginia. (We live in PA).

Specifically Slaty Fork WV. At midnight of the morning of the day we would jump on the road we booked the last room at Morning Glory Inn (your suggestion) and after four hours of sleep and waking him up with John Denver’s classic, we were on the road!

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017 I could write forever about how the roads you suggested and places to see were spot on for my guy...and me. The Inn was fabulous and they made Chris a birthday cake! I let him drive the Mini to her full potential around all the crazy turns...and kept my screaming to a minimum, as part of his birthday gift. We checked out Seneca Rocks, Beartown, Snowshoe...and on the way home Berkeley Springs for some pampering. We look forward to going through all the back issues and the future ones, to pick what’s next for us.

Chris and I don’t always agree on everything, but we are both on the same page when it comes to following your adventures! erin Simmons Backroads, I wanted to tell you that although we couldn’t make the Spring Break Rally we did get to go to West Virginia with two other couples, one was Rick Rodriquez who wrote an article last year in the magazine, and we had a great time. We had never been to West Virginia and it was great! We did Seneca Rocks and hiked to the top, it wasn’t easy but it was worth the view! We have to go back and maybe do your trip in the Fall, we’ll see. I wanted to talk with you and the group and get everyone’s input. One question I would bring up is when do you know it’s time to hang up the helmet?

Anyway, I’m hoping that we meet up on a ride.

I know you guys have been to a lot of places but I do have a recommendation to try if you haven’t been to it, it’s the Blue Bee Café on 114 Main St Delhi, NY. The food is delicious and they have homemade ice cream!

One last thing, Brian looks good in his new suit and also I know Shira is already famous but is now infamous in the Aerostich catalog, we both bought suits when they were here in NJ. We’re still getting use to them, especially Jean with the bathroom breaks!

Only the best, Jack and Jean calderon Adios Dear friends, A few years back, my adult daughter asked me when I might stop riding a motorcycle.

“Oh, probably the day I die,” I replied.

Page 9 “Dad! Wrong answer! Try again.”

“Uh, when I’m no longer safe, comfortable, or eager to ride.”

“Okay,” she said. “Now you’re talking sense.”

Well, guys, that day has come. After 52 years, seven motorcycles, and well over 150,000 miles logged on two wheels, it’s time to retire at the top of my game. Yesterday I sold my BMW 1200RT of 12 years with all its accessories, and I didn’t even cry.

With each passing year, the bike has become heavier to maneuver at parade speeds and small spaces (i.e., Long Island traffic). It’s become more and more uncomfortable on long hauls and in foul weather. Finally, the other day I barely escaped being clobbered at a blind intersection when a young lady in a SUV ran a stop sign. For me, a smaller bike is not the answer.

My one regret is the absence of all you wonderful Backroads friends and riders with whom I’ve shared so many miles. You know who you are. And always Brian and Shira, who make it all possible.

Of course, I’ll keep my Vespa for around town and some of Long Island.

If you’d like to ride with me on LI’s North Shore, and are hearty enough to brave NYC and eastbound LI traffic, give me a shout. If not, give me a shout anyway, and we’ll chat and catch up. I may well drop by at a future rally with four wheels, anyway, so perhaps it’s not “adios” after all.

All the best! glenn Baldwin Glenn…We love you too.

You are the second person I have heard that listened to their daughter when they started the worried child thing…..Stop it. She never listened to you when she was growing up, did she?

Motorcycles keep us young and you are still way too young and vibrant.

The answer is easy …get a smaller bike. Like Ed who downsized to a Kawi Versys.

Now pour yourself a glass of wine, go play some jazz and think about how you REALLY don’t want to stop riding. You just need the right tool for the job. ~ Brian Rathjen

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The Inside Scoop Backroads, Here is my contribution to Shira’s continuing ice cream search. It is called Racantore’s. They have four stores. I tried their store in Lexington, MA. Like no chain you’ve ever tried. Super high quality ingredients & innovative flavors like Cocoa Joel, Callebaut Milk Chocolate & Kahlua Chip to name a few. Very friendly & let me sample five flavors with a smile. Not around the corner from Sussex County, but about 3 miles from Minuteman National Park. Give it a try one day. You will not be disappointed Jay Schwartzapel

By the Time You Get to Woodstock Dear Backroads, My wife and I would like to go to Woodstock for a few days. Could you recommend a bike friendly place?

William de renzis The White Dove Rockotel is an excellent overnight right in the town www.thewhitedoverockotel.com. We highly recommend it.

Dear Editors, Just got around to reading the September issue.

It was one of the best and funniest Backroads in a while. I knew immediately that it was you who was doing the “baffilication” or “baffelectomy” whatever you called it. You should make some inquiries about the young gent moto cop; I’m sure he’s still puttering around. I’m sure he’d love the memory and the story as I’m sure he would remember it.

Shira, “deep fried bacon; isn’t that just bacon?” classic. After having fried pickles for the first time at the bbq place on the Hudson after visiting the 9/11 bike at Motorcyclepedia, Andrea bought a deep fryer and we’ve been deep frying everything ever since. Her potato chips are still the best. I’ve seen the doughnut hamburgers before but I just can’t do it. Corndogs on the other hand happen all the time as does grilling corn on the cob WITH the husk on of course.

However the funniest was Mark Byers’ article. Not so funny that what he wrote was true as I’m sure he snores and his farts stink but most importantly

OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Mail: BACKROADS PO Box 620 Augusta NJ 07822

Email: editor@backroadsusa.com Fax: (973) 948-0823

Got something to say? We’d love to hear it.

Letters may be edited, never censored, to fit.

we’re a lot older than we think and feel and that the demo for motorcycling, at least as we define motorcycling is dwindling. Too many inner city types with Nazi helmets on their heads (and full face helmets fastened to the side of the bike) and flip-flops doing wheelies on our public roads. However, “Mawk”… I almost fell off my chair as my 5-borough accent is much closer to yours when it does come out but that is exactly how you say his name! michael g. Bellantone Hey Backroads, Many thanks to the Backroads crew for allowing Tavern 1757 to be part of the Mystery Ride and for the nice Great All American Diner Run article in the September issue.

We’re glad you enjoyed your Tavern experience and we look forward to seeing you and your readers here in the future. One correction so not to disappoint your readers who stop in… Our meatball parm sandwich is standard fare delicousness. We are known as Home of the Jumbo Stuffed Meatballs for our unique, signature dinner appetizer, as well as for the award winning Parmesan truffle wings.

Joe meagher, owner tavern 1757

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Page 11

IN DU STRY INFOBITES

News from the Inside SIGN OF THE TIMES?

Boutique motorcycle outfit Confederate Motorcycles is changing its name and making the switch from building bikes powered by big V-twin engines to ones with electric motors, according to a report in the Los Angeles Times.

The Alabama-based company was founded in 1991 and is known for high-end, handcrafted motorcycles with a signature naked industrial style that cost upwards of $155,000 and have been owned by celebrities like Tom Cruise and Brad Pitt.

Confederate president Matt Chambers told the newspaper that he thinks the company has started to lose business because of the name. “We’ve missed out on branding opportunities. So, it’s time to retire it,” Chambers said.

The company doesn’t use any ‘Stars and Bars’ or Confederate battle flag imagery, and Chambers recently told Jalopnik that he’s glad the South lost the Civil War. He said the name was a salute to the good Southern principles, and that the company’s motto, “The Art of Rebellion,” is a reference to a cerebral and spiritual one.

Moving forward, the company will be known as Curtiss Motorcycle Co., after aviation pioneer Glenn H. Curtiss. Confederate’s bikes are all named after airplanes, and the company owns the rights to use the Curtiss name and is already selling merchandise featuring it on its website.

Chambers also told the Times that the company has taken its current bikes as far as it can, so its next cruiser will be battery-powered and feature twin electric motors developed by California’s Zero Motorcycles.

MORE SHOCKING NEWS MOTORCYCLE INDUSTRY WELCOMES BAN ON GAS POWERED BIKES? The Motorcycle Industry Association (U.K.) has welcomed reports of a ban on new fossil fuel-powered vehicles starting 2040, saying it will be a “tremendous stimulus” for bike makers.

The Government is due to announce a ban on the sale of new petrol (gasoline) and diesel vehicles from 2040 as part of an effort to tackle air pollution, according to several national newspapers. The measure is expected to include a ban on new hybrid vehicles and “could mark the beginning of the end of the prevalence of the internal combustion engine in automotive transport,” reports www.BritishDealerNews.co.uk.

The announcement will be in line with a similar commitment already made by France.

Steve Kenward, CEO of the Motorcycle Industry Association (MCIA), pointed out that no specific mention had been made of motorcycles but added: “I think there’s a great opportunity.”

“For all the congestion-busting abilities of motorcycles and the abilities to make electric bikes I think it’s a tremendous stimulus for the motorcycle industry,” Kenward predicts. “It’s a tremendous commercial trigger to push on with electric motorcycles.”

Motorcycles made before 2007 are already set to be hit by a £12.50 ($16.10 USD) daily pollution toll for entering London beginning in 2020.

INDIA BECOMES WORLD’S LARGEST MOTORCYCLE MANUFACTURER India has dethroned China from a long reign as the world’s largest motorcycle manufacturer, having already overtaken China to become the largest domestic motorcycle market three years ago. The growth curve is continuing, as India’s growing domestic market and partnerships with English and European bike builders have put the country at the forefront of worldwide twowheeled production.

While overall new motorcycle sales in the U.S. have been about 500,000 a year, and around 125,000 are sold in the United Kingdom, the total sales of machines made in India for the last financial year came to 17.6 million – more every three days than are sold in the UK in a year; more every 11 days than are sold annually in America.

Currently India’s domestic motorcycle marketplace is dominated by sub125cc scooters and motorcycles, but larger capacity “luxury” classes are taking an increasing share as the market matures. Royal Enfield, built in India for the past 62 years, sold more than 700,000 motorcycles last year, a figure nearly equal to the combined worldwide sales of Harley-Davidson, KTM, BMW, Triumph, and Ducati, and their production target for this fiscal year is 900,00

Page 12

OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

INDIAN EXPERIENCE CENTER OPENS

E-DUI LAW TARGETS DRIVING UNDER E-FLUENCE

Indian Motorcycle, America’s first motorcycle company founded in 1901, announced the opening of an Experience Center at its Spirit Lake manufacturing facility. Based in America’s heartland, the Spirit Lake Experience Center is a free offering for motorcyclists looking to connect with the iconic American motorcycle brand.

Washington state has enacted a new ‘E-DUI’ law that imposes stiff penalties for driving under the influence... of electronic devices. Under their new distracted driving law, referred to as “E-DUI,” drivers in the Evergreen State will no longer be able to use a cell phone or any electronic device while driving, even when stopped at a traffic light. The bill was drafted in response to a 32% increase in deaths from distracted driving from 2014 to 2015.

“Put the cell phones down, preserve life,” Gov. Jay Inslee said on the steps of the Capitol in Olympia, according to Q13 Fox News. Inslee says the bill is called “electronic driving while impaired” for a reason. “When you are driving with a cell phone, you are a more dangerous driver than if you are driving drunk with a .08 blood alcohol level,” he said.

The first citation will cost drivers $136, nearly doubling for a second offense within five years. Tickets issued for driving while using hand-held electronics will go on a motorist’s record and reported to their insurance provider, says a website set up by the state explaining the new law. In addition, according to the new law, drivers can also get a $99 ticket for other types of distractions like grooming, smoking, eating or reading if it interferes with safe driving and you are pulled over for another traffic offense.

The Indian Motorcycle Spirit Lake Experience Center will showcase current and historic Indian motorcycles and offer complementary behind-thescenes tours of its world-class production facility. Visitors will observe the assembly process that’s conducted from start-to-finish with robotic machinery and witness new Indian motorcycles come right off the line. The Spirit Lake Experience Center will also serve as a venue for private events.

“As America’s first motorcycle company, we have a rich history and a loyal following of motorcyclists,” said Steve Menneto, President – Indian Motorcycle. “Right in America’s heartland, the Experience Center not only serves as a unique destination for motorcyclists to engage with the brand, but also showcases our outstanding people who build premium motorcycles.”

Menneto welcomed the new Experience Center with Spirit Lake employees, friends and family members during an honorary ribbon-cutting ceremony.

The Experience Center will be open for complimentary tours on Mondays and Fridays through November 3, 2017. Tours will reopen in 2018. Tours will be conducted through appointments only, which can be made by calling Indian Motorcycle Spirit Lake at 712-336-6955.

For more info visit indianmotorcycle.com and follow on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

BIKER ENVY!? OH, SURE, YOU BETCHA! If you’ve ever come across one of those drivers who seem determined to prevent you from passing on your bike, you may feel a sense of satisfaction in knowing that they’re probably just jealous... and it’s going to take them some time to calm down after they arrive late for work.

A recent survey has found that 27.8% of drivers experienced ‘biker envy’ when motorcyclists passed them in traffic and it took them an average of 34.2 minutes to feel calm and in control again after getting to work late.

The survey of 2,000 commuters by British motorcycle insurer Devitt Insurance also found that employees lose on average 29.6 minutes of work a week because of heavy traffic, costing the U.K. economy £203,846,153 ($261,351,152 USD).

Almost 13% had missed a job interview while stuck in traffic, while 32.3% said they would try to sneak into work unnoticed on arriving late. Here’s a better idea: get a bike!

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017

PRODUCT REVIEW

Page 13

TAMRAC 5606 SYSTEM 6 CAMERA BAG

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In these days of smartphone cameras it seems that everyone now can create a fairly good looking image.

Still, there was a day when photography was a skill and not just an app. For some of us those days are still alive and well. On longer road tours we always bring along our Nikon DSR with a number of different lenses and accessories to go along.

We were recently in the hunt for a new camera bag that could handle all we needed to carry and be compact enough to fit into the Jesse bag on our BMW R1200GS. I found what I needed at a local camera shop in Sparta, New Jersey - the Tamrac 5606 System 6 Camera Bag. There are all sorts of things to like about this bag and, having purchased Tamrac bags in the past, I do love the brand and their quality. The inserts are easily movable, and the bridge for the camera is a very nice feature. The pockets in the lid and front are roomy, and the side pockets easily fit extra batteries, SD Cards, pens, data cables and the like.

Tamrac’s 5606 camera bag is well constructed, sturdy and versatile, and is suitable for use with either film or digital SLR cameras. Although it is a mid-sized bag, and designed to carry up to two camera bodies, we found it to be excellent for our one Nikon and three different lenses and a flash unit if needed, although we are more natural light folks.

The 5606 had an excellent heavy-duty carrying strap (we removed it for better stowage in the bike’s luggage) and also has straps at the base for carrying a tripod, which was a great addition.

Another feature is a wallet for carrying digital media and other small accessories. The wallet is attached to the bag with an elastic strip, and slides into a compartment on the side of the bag. The padding at bottom and sides is adequate for riding around for weeks with it inside a saddlebag that is properly packed to avoid shifting and rolling.

It also has a “piggy-back” pocket in the rear to help attach it to other luggage, like a trolley suitcase if needed.

The material of the bag of fairly water-resistant and the lid’s fold adds extra protection in the area.

The lid, which has its own pocket underneath, is held by three snap buckles making access to the camera somewhat easy if you need to get your camera out quickly for that Bigfoot or UFO shot. The two side pockets do a great job of carrying other extras – including one terabyte hard drive backup for us.

My only issue was that the Tamrac 5606 System 6 was only available in black and I would like it to be a far brighter, more noticeable color – but that is something I can fix on my own.

Our bag listed for $99 – a great investment if you care about your camera and your images like we do. www.tamrac.com

Page 14

OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MY STERI OUS AM ERI CA dOn’t gO there!

PART TWo - WhERE ThE US GoVERNMENT DoES NoT WANT YoU To Go!

Site r – the raven rock complex

They called it Harry’s Hole back in the 1950s.

Just a few miles from the historic battlefields of Gettysburg amongst all the other mountains and hills that are sprinkled about the region there is one that stands out from all the rest. Raven Rock.

As you approach it the communications towers, radar and satellite installations stand out in stark contrast to the surrounding pastoral hills.

Welcome to Site R. Now go away!

After World War II, and especially after the Soviets detonated their first atomic weapon, our government began to “think ahead” in case the “unthinkable” happened.

In 1950, President Harry S. Truman approved the construction of a deep underground facility that could be used as a relocation site for the Pentagon in times of national emergency.

The mountain was chosen for a variety of reason. Close proximity to Washington D.C. and just miles from Shangri-La – what would later become known as Camp David – but just as important was that Raven Rock was created out of an incredibly hard stone.

One half million cubic yards of super-hard greenstone granite rock was not-so-secretly blasted out and hauled away in ten months. Five separate 3story buildings were built deep inside the Raven Rock mountain located on the Pennsylvania-Maryland border.

The newspapers of the day knew something was up. It is pretty hard to hide the hollowing out of a mountain on the Mason-Dixon Line, is it not?

A St. Petersburg Times headline dated March 6, 1962 states, “ Why the Big Hole at Fort Richie, Maryland – Army Says S-h-h-h!”

Another from ten years earlier from the Gettysburg Times claimed “Second Pentagon Being Built in County Hills.”

See, it is not like I am letting the cat out of the bag here. It is said that the buildings inside look like ordinary office buildings, except for the fact they are set inside a hollowed-out cavern deep inside a mountain. The underground complex has roads and parking areas big enough to accommodate trucks and buses. Site R is completely self-sufficient with two power plants to generate electricity, multiple underground water reservoirs and a sophisticated ventilation system. The facility can operate for at least 30 days in a “buttoned-up” position and can accommodate 3,000 persons in an emergency.

In addition to the basic life support requirements of power, water, and air, the underground metropolis also contains a medical and dental clinic, fire department, post office, dining facility, snack bar, dormitories, chapel, barbershop, fitness center and a bowling alley.

A bowling alley? We hope there is a Dunkin’ Donuts.

There is also rumor of a tunnel that leads from Camp David to Raven Rock.

I can believe that.

Although the thought is that this site is a remnant from the Cold War, it is still very active, as we could tell when we rode past it recently.

The miles or so of razor wire and fencing along Harbaugh Valley Road lets you know something is happening. And there is.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017

According to Garret Graff, whose new book ‘Raven Rock’ chronicles the happenings here, “Every day in Washington, DC, the blue-and-gold 1st Helicopter Squadron, code-named MUSSEL, flies over the Potomac River. As obvious as the presidential motorcade, the squadron is assumed by most people to be a travel perk for VIPs. They’re only half right: while the helicopters do provide transport, the unit exists to evacuate high-ranking officials in the event of a terrorist or nuclear attack on the capital. In the event of an attack, select officials would be whisked by helicopters to a ring of secret bunkers around Washington, even as ordinary citizens are left to fend for themselves.”

How wonderful for them.

This helicade was used to whisk Dick Cheney here just an hour after the first jets hit the Twin Towers on September 11, 2001.

Reports say that the facility has been activated far more than you would think.

Page 15

If the shit were to be lobbed at the fan, the government would know way before the public. We might find out about it the hard way.

While outside the complex, don’t try to make a cell call; you will not be able to. It is as if the phone has turned off. Unlike earlier in the day, where I felt as though I was about to be taken in – here I watched a number of trucks come off the mountain and they seemed uncaring that a motorcycle was stopped and the rider had a camera out.

Perhaps it was a different tone on the other end of the closed circuit system that had been tracking me since I got onto Harbaugh Valley Road – the same motorcycle that was spotted and tracked at Mount Weather just a few short hours before.

No, I am not paranoid…why do you ask?

Raven Rock is just another of a few that we know of – the other one being Cheyenne Mountain in Colorado, where the Air Force keeps the Star Gate.

Still, you have to be aware that there must be a few others that they have kept secret successfully – so far.

But, if I come across them I will not tell you about it.

That would be un-American. ~ o’Life out!

Page 16

OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Hanover Powersports Presents

BIG CITY GETAWAY mOrriS mUSeUm 6 NORMANDY HEIGHTS RD., MORRISTOWN, NJ 07960 973-971-3700 • WWW.MORRISMUSEUM.ORG When winter weather takes hold of the region our circle of exploration sometimes shrinks a bit and we begin to take a look closer to home for things to seek out and discover.

Such was one cold afternoon when we had some business in the Morristown area of the Garden State.

Although known historically for the American Revolution, Morristown has something else special to offer as well – the Morris Museum.

The museum’s collection, began more than 100 years ago, was originally known as the Morristown Children’s Museum and over time the collection has moved in and around the area, but in 1962 the museum acquired Twin Oaks, the former Frelinghuysen estate. Today, the Georgian-style mansion functions as the heart of the Morris Museum’s operations. In 1969, the institution was renamed the Morris Museum of Arts and Sciences, reflecting its growing emphasis on visual art and the expansion of its offerings for all ages.

The combination of old mansion and new museum is wonderfully created and mixed.

The Morris Museum is the only museum in New Jersey with a professional theatre that produces and presents productions of musicals, dramas, comedies, and mysteries, a year-round children’s theatre, a jazz series, a blues series and special concerts and performances.

Being veterans of some of the finest museums in the world – the Prado in

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind Madrid, the Field Museum in Chicago and the Jello Museum in LeRoy, New York – when we heard that the Morris Museum was having a Lego Exhibit called Engineering Brick Art we knew we’d be taking another ride down to the historic town.

The exhibit of fine Lego art was very impressive – there was plenty of the Lego Star Wars, movie-style presentations that kids love these day, but there we also some incredibly well done recreations of fine art pieces.

A Lego version of Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring was truly impressive as were some of the other individual pieces.

But, while we were there we discovered the Morris Museum would be far, far more than a Lego exhibit.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017

Although it was once a children’s museum, today adults will spend a few hours wandering around the old mansion and modern annex - it is the second largest museum in New Jersey.

Old model trains are featured in a wonderful section and while we were there we found a fascinating exhibit on the tribes of Northern Papua New Guinea. Yeah, we know you might be rolling your eyes, but it was pretty amazing.

What would a great museum be without dinosaurs?

The Morris Museum has them in plenty and, being New Jersey’s second largest museum, they have some good ones on display – our favorite being a beak of a Hadrosuar – the state dinosaur.

Did you know that one of the first real dinosaurs was found in 1838, in Haddonfield, New Jersey by a man named William Parker Foulke? Well, it is true, and it was named Hadrosaurus foulkii in honor of Foulke.

There is a T-Rex skull too – always a crowd pleaser.

You will learn more about these at the Morris Museum.

But there was something else that really grabbed our attention and it is also part of the permanent collection.

In 2003, the Museum was awarded the Murtogh D. Guinness Collection, one of the world’s most important collections of mechanical musical instruments and automata (robotic figures of animals and people). According to the museum, “This collection further enhances the Morris Museum’s role as a major cultural center and travel destination for the arts, sciences and humanities.

This 750-object collection reflects innovative technology, exquisite craftsmanship, compelling sound and important cultural heritage.”

That and it is just so friggin’ cool.

Page 17 In these days of instantaneous and exact music reproduction it is hard to think there was a time that you could not have faithfully recreated music at your fingertips.

But, here at the Morris Museum you will see virtually every category of mechanical musical instruments and automata from the late 16th century through the early 20th century. At the core are cylinder and disc music boxes. Made in Switzerland and France beginning in the late 18th century, cylinder music boxes stand as living documents of the arias, overtures and waltzes of the time. The disc music boxes of the late 19th century show a shift to a broader audience and to more popular music. In the 1890s, disc box production expanded from Germany to Switzerland and also to the United States, where New Jersey Continued on Page 19

Page 18

OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN

tasty places to take your bike

Words + images: Mark Byers

the BBQ eXchange 102 MARTINSBURG AVE, GORDONSVILLE, VA 22942 540-832-0227 • WWW.BBQEX.COM

Brandon, burns longer and gives them the kind of slow, roasting-fire they need. The wood is actually pre-burned to get rid of bark and impurities before they toss it in the smokers, such is their attention to detail. The big, rotisserie smoker was custom-made and sported everything from pork butts to bellies to andouille sausage. Brandon said that on a big weekend they’ll do 2,000 lb

Do you want BBQ that’ll stop a train? I once saw a CSX engineer stop his locomotive on the tracks behind this restaurant in the small town of Gordonsville, VA, dismount, and go inside for some ‘Q. It’s no wonder, because founder Craig Hartman’s credits include: Sous Chef at Washington’s Mayflower Hotel and many, many other culinary accomplishments. For about 20 years, Hartman presided over some of the nation’s best fine-dining

restaurants. It’s no wonder that when he decided to turn his talents to BBQ 7 years ago, he took it to a higher level.

Behind the restaurant are multiple smokers being fed green hickory, which according to my guide, Q-master

of meat and yearly, they are smoking around 300,000 lb of pork, beef, chicken, and sausage! It’s a slow process, taking around 12 hours.

Betsy and I had pulledpork combo sandwiches and when we couldn’t decide between seasoned fries and hush puppies, the lady said “how about half and half” and we heartily agreed. Betsy had slaw on her sandwich and chose the horseradish-flavored pickles while I shunned the slaw and had the dills. Both of us were very happy. The hush puppies in particular are larger than a golf

‘50s-Style Drive-In Restaurant Full and Varied Menu Room for the Whole Gang Autumn is the best time to take a ride to

THE CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN GREAT FOOD • GOOD TIMES • EXCELLENT RIDING Located at Ross’ Corners • 1 Route 15 • Augusta NJ • 973-300-2300

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accommodations available Six newly renovated rooms (2016)

Best bar menu, lunch or dinner. fresh poppers, perogies, calamari, clams and crispy wings with 8 different sauces.

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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017

Page 19 cling in the vicinity is excellent, including Route 231, the old Blue Ridge Turnpike, a road widely reported as one of the most scenic in the US (I agree). The BBQ Exchange is open every day from 11AM to 8PM except the big holidays.

ball, crisp and brown outside, and luscious inside. There’s a large selection of side dishes, including collards and mac-n-cheese. There are five sauces from which to choose, including their signature “Colonel Bacon,” which has more than a pound of bacon in every gallon. I had the “Virginia Sweet” made from apples and molasses.

That’s not the only way to satisfy your sweet tooth, however, as they also offer a dizzying array of desserts, including to-die-for cupcakes (the chocolate with key lime icing caught my eye) and specialty brownies. On weekends, they have special in-house doughnuts too. Believe it or not, you can even bring a vegan, because they have sandwiches and platters made with smoked tofu (humorously called “Fu-Q”). For the kids-at-heart, the indoor tables are covered with paper and you are encouraged to adorn it with your pork-based-artwork using the provided crayons. If it’s good enough, they’ll put it on the wall.

The menu is so extensive and varied that I haven’t begun to do it justice, so you’ll just have to see for yourself. The BBQ Exchange is situated next to the historic Exchange Hotel, a place that was used as a hospital during the Civil War. You can walk to/from the charming downtown and the motorcyWorth the ride from anywhere!

Sharing your passion for good food since 1983 Member of

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Continued from Page 17

became the home of American music box production. The collection includes numerous instruments made in Jersey City, Rahway and Bradley Beach.

Like the mechanical musical instruments in the collection, the musical, French-made automata represent a broad array of styles. Snake charmers, magicians, singing birds, and other figures in the Murtogh D. Guinness collection showcase the talents of their makers and constitute one of the largest public holdings of automata in the United States.

This exhibit alone is worth the price of admission – which is an easy $10 for adults, $7 for kids and free to active military.

While exploring the Garden State make it a point to visit Morristown – the town itself has a number of great restaurants for a bite, but then swing over to the Morris Museum and discover a little bit of the past – it always makes the future seem brighter.

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OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

WE’R E O UTTA HER E the WhiStling SWan inn 110 MAIN ST, STANHOPE, NJ 07874 • 973- 347-6369 WWW.WHISTLINGSWANINN.COM LATITUDE: 40.905323 LONGITUDE: -74.709445 Most readers of Backroads know we have a love affair with our adopted home of the ‘Skylands Region’ of the Garden State. Many of you, especially those who have to travel a bit to get to the northwest parts of the state, will agree that the roads, scenery and ambiance is hard to beat.

Yet, the NJ stigma remains for some, much to our regret and despite Backroads’ efforts to lead riders who do not live in these parts of New Jersey to its natural beauty and charm.

Well, some still can’t get past the Elizabeth ports and the Meadowlands.

So sad for them, for we know a place that is very special indeed and that, even in these modern times, will quickly sweep you back 100 years – to the end of the Victorian era. Located just minutes off I-80, in Sussex County you will find the town of Stanhope.

The town has a long history, going back before European settlers came to the region and it was a major stop along the Morris Canal, which can still be seen while riding through the town.

Over the years some great homes were built in this region, but many have been long gone. Lucky for us one stellar example of the wonderful Victorian–style survives and, even better for us, is centerpiece of this month’s

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads We’re Outta Here! The Whistling Swan Bed & Breakfast.

Back in 1905 Judge Daniel L. Best, Stanhope, New Jersey’s justice of the peace, built the home at 110 Main Street for his beloved his wife, Sarah.

The home was completed as a spacious, up-to-the-minute mansion, and came with all the modern conveniences of the day.

It was magnificent. Still is.

But, time moves on and the Best family held onto the home for a few decades and then it passed through a few other owners before sitting empty for years.

Eventually, it was purchased by Joe and Paula Williams, who lovingly restored it to its former grandeur and made it an inn.

A few of years back Tom and Rosalind Bruno, recently retired, followed the calling of the innkeeper and bought the fine home – now called The Whistling Swan.

We met Tom through Backroads – as he came along on our Spring Break Rally - and was telling me about The Whistling Swan. After seeing some pictures we knew we had to make the short ride to the inn to see it for ourselves.

Ye Olde landmark tavern 5 Spacious Rooms starting at $100.00 Tavern and Dining Room Menu Serving hours: Mon-Sat: 5-9pm Sunday: 2:30-8pm Seasonal April ~ December Member of

Featured in ‘We’re Outta Here’ In the heart of great riding • Between Syracuse and Utica

Cooperstown • Finger Lakes • State Forests

route 20, Bouckville, nY • 315-893-1810 • www.yeoldelandmark.com

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017

Three letters work best – WOW! The Whistling Swan is a true beauty.

The handcrafted woodwork, the stellar grounds and gardens, the waterfall and the rich, but comfortable opulence are astounding.

Being riders they have worked a bit of motorcycling into the décor as well.

Nice touch.

The Whistling Swan has nine rooms – all named for the local region and history: The Lenape Room, the Morris Canal, the Great Meadows Room, the High Point Suite and so on.

Looking at the list we were reminded, once again, how much this region between the Passaic and Delaware Rivers has to offer today’s motorcyclist as far as scenery, flavor and riding go.

Each room is a work of art in itself – beautifully thought out and appointed.

Along the stairwell portraits of American presidents that were in office during the reign of the British Queen Victoria can be found- mixing our American heritage with Rosalind’s love of British history. It is a nice combination that works for us history buffs.

Stanhope is a neat town and there is much to do after you arrive, park the bikes and settle in.

A glass of wine or cup of coffee (readily available) in the garden can’t be beat. Rosalind and Tom’s garden is as peaceful and pretty as a Garden State grounds can be.

Just a short walk away you will find Bell’s Mansion.

Like the Whistling Swan, Bell’s Mansion has a deep history as well, built between 1835 and 1840 by Robert P. Bell, president of the Morris Canal & Banking Company. It is located in the center of Stanhope, this vast land area included the site of the present brick house which Bell constructed for his residence atop the hill overlooking the Morris Canal.

We have been here a few times and have never been disappointed. It is one of the region’s most popular eateries and is just around the corner from the B & B. After dinner, if you are looking for a bit more excitement and good times before retiring to your comfy bed, you must take some time to stop by what some call The

Page 21

Last Great American Roadhouse: The Stanhope House.

If walls could talk, the old walls of the Stanhope House, the building dating from 1794, would have some serious stories to tell. The club was the stomping grounds and post-show hangout of a massive array of loved blues legends.

Imagine, the late, great Stevie Ray Vaughn scrubbing dishes in the kitchen after a late night jam-packed gig. Picture Muddy Waters deep, grainy voice

Page 22

OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

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trading chicken recipes with former club matron Mama Wrobleski or the original Hoochie Coochie man, Willie Dixon, stopping by for Thanksgiving dinner. All of this has happened at The Stanhope House, one of the last great blues bastions left in America. Nice, huh?

Come morning The Whistling Swan serves up a full breakfast. The entrées change each day based on the availability of fresh local ingredients and the chefs’ whims. There is always a “savory” choice and a “sweet” choice for the main dish. Some favorites include their spinach cheddar quiche and cranberry apple French toast or crispy orange waffles, lemon pancakes served with luscious Devonshire cream and eggs Benedict made to order.

Roasted rosemary potatoes, homemade Canadian bacon and other sumptuous side dishes round out a meal that should hold you almost until dinner. Fresh fruit, juices, yogurt, homemade granola and home-baked breads and muffins are always mainstays each day on the buffet.

From your arrival to putting up the side stands and riding away we think The Whistling Swan is the real deal and total package when it comes to the American Bed & Breakfast!

Yes, it seems that this part of Jersey, Stanhope and The Whistling Swan have a lot to offer the two-wheel traveler.

Now we can add in a little Backroads flair with a great Rip & Ride to the Whistle Swan, found on page 46. free Wheelin’

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This way to the egress?

Lucky for me I am somewhat versed in the dark arts of tire repair and I got to give half a dozen beer-clasping students a close-up schooling on proper Stop & Go tec.

As I said the screw had not punctured straight on, so the repair was not straight on either, but still the Stop & Go plug held most of the air overnight and needed just a touch on the road to get us home with reasonable pressure.

It was still holding some air two days later – when we replaced the tire.

Tires – they are all you have between you, the bike and the ground. Watch them, take care of them, learn to repair them on the road.

Someday you will be glad you did as there is no reason to be over stressed and under pressure.

WhatchathinKin’

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Continued from Page 5

be my next bike.’ Good, Duane says, as this IS your bike. Whaaattt?!

It was two weeks before I could properly welcome the new steed into the stable. On its first ‘real’ ride, I found it to be light, nimble and peppy. Yes, it is still just a tad tall, but I’ve adapted and look forward to many, many happy miles on Little Yella. I can tell you that NotSo Happy is thrilled with it too.

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Continued from Page 4

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still mad at BMW for not listening to my learned counsel many years ago, when they launched their (now defunct) R1200C. “It is a cruiser, my friends, a laid-back boulevard machine,” I pontificated to some BMW execs at an alcohol-fueled dinner. “We have Fat Boys, Magnas, Maduras, Intruders, Vulcans, and others. You should call your cruiser . . . the Edelweiss.” I mean, if they had scripted this badass (yet clean and bright) moniker on the side of the tank, they might be selling them still. I think the adoption of this name could have added 50-75 additional sales to the 40,000 or so they did sell.

Amazing how so much obvious brain-power can miss the boat sometimes.

So here we are. Names matter, labels are important; in fact the right title can not only put your machine on the road but on the map. To all manufacturers, if you have a new motorcycle (or car, ship, airplane, etc.) in your skunk works, I can help with the naming of your creation. I can be contacted ℅ this publication. But be warned, I am EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE. This is not due to hubris, or some other vain self-valuation. No, you have BMW’s lack of vision to blame for the now astronomic cost of this valuable service. The spite surcharge is a substantial one.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017

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lu•lu 11 main St, Bristol, vt 05443 • www.luluvt.com • daily flavors on facebook • Open 1-9pm every day lu•lu (loo-loo) noun 1. one that is remarkable or wonderful <a lulu of a performance> 2. small batch artisan ice cream, hand crafted in Vermont July is National Ice Cream Month so you bet that, while on our Summer Squeeze in Vermont this past July, I would find a grand ice cream spot to celebrate. Knowing that a local suggestion would be the best way to go, I hit up Eric Milano of MotoVermont for his suggestions. Without hesitation, he said, ‘You HAVE TO go to lu•lu in Bristol.’

‘Nuff said, and a route was plotted. lu•lu is the brainchild of sisters Martha and Laura Mack, who opened the farm-to-spoon artisan ice cream parlor in 2012. Dad Doug Mack has been chief cook and bottle washer of Mary’s at the Inn at Baldwin Creek for many a decade, and when Martha decided to turn her kitchen background (even though she has a Master’s in library and information sciences) towards desserts, specifically ice cream, he was all for it. Since Mary’s had moved from their storefront to the Inn, it seemed a perfect fit for the two to remake and refit the space, including a larger-than-life metal ice cream cone which hangs over the front door, marking the spot for some pretty damn tasty ice cream. lu•lu’s home is in Bristol - one of those classic examples of a Vermont village – with plenty of parking, next to a Yarn and Yoga shop and right down the road from the town square. Inside is colorfully bright, with seating inside and out, and just as laid back as you would expect in a Vermont village.

A handwritten daily menu sign on brown paper hangs next to the counter, of which there are nine daily flavors – four standard and five ‘quirkier’ ones. As the ice cream is all small batch, they’ll scoop until they run out, which they do on busy summer days. But not to worry, as when one is gone, out comes another.

The base of all the ice creams is a French-custard-style with milk and cream from local Monument Farms Dairy and eggs from the Inn at Baldwin Creek’s own chickens. Martha and Laura also source their ingredients from Vermont Coffee Company, Last Resort Farm and other local businesses. Of the less quirky daily offerings, the Cookies and Cream has proven to be a winner, made with Martha’s own homemade version of Oreos. On the other hand, Doug’s flavor contribution of Slumdog Millionaire – curried peanut butter - tends to fly out the door when on the daily menu. To throw out just a few

Page 24

OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

of their other flavors: Mexican Hot Chocolate, Salted Caramel, Coffee Toffee and Tennessee Lullaby (bourbon brown sugar).

We found a spot on quiet Main Street and headed inside to quell the heat that had built up this day.

The temptations of the day were Dorian Grey (Earl Grey Tea), Green Tea, Coffee, Vanilla Bean, Tennessee Lullaby, Blueberry Buttermilk, Cookies and Cream, Roasted Pineapple (Vanilla-based steeped with roasted pineapple) and Strawberry Sorbet (Vegan/Dairy free). How can one decide without a ‘test ride’ and you don’t have to, as there are plenty of tasting spoons and the young lady behind the counter was happy to hand out as many as you’d like. After dipping a spoon in for the Dorian Grey, Coffee and Roasted Pineapple, I settled on a single scoop of Tennessee Lullaby (not being able to pass up anything with bourbon), Helene opted for Coffee and Gerry for Dorian Grey. We sat in the comfort of the coolness and enjoyed our treats, wishing we had the appetite for larger servings but more than satisfied with what we had. The flavors popped, the texture was spot on and the sweetness demure. Of all, the coffee was absolutely amazing.

Bristol sits about 30 minutes south of Burlington, but our ride this day began at the bottom of the state in West Dover. We made a stop at the Pember Library and Natural History Museum (look for that in a future Mysterious America column) before pulling into Bristol. Should you find yourself in that area, here is our ride in GPS format. Enjoy and go for at least two scoops, it is so worth it.

lu•lu

11 main St, Bristol, vt 05443 • www.luluvt.com • daily flavors on facebook • Open 1-9pm every day gPS download: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/08ye5o Note: Route from West Dover to Bristol is 142 miles, from Bristol to West Dover is 115 miles. Vermont is full of unpaved roads of varying types so don’t be surprised if you end up on a few.

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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017

Page 25

Chasing the Colors 2017

H

ere comes the annual dash of orange, yellow and reds that speckle the trees and foliage here in the northeast. Oak and maples begin to turn crimson and scarlet. Hickory, poplars, birch, elms and ginkgoes change to gold and yellows and maple fade into a deep reddish-orange. It is always beautiful and always way too short.

So this year we thought we would actually chase the colors south, starting with the first wisps of colors in the north and following the bands of colors as they head south a bit later in the Autumn.

Let’s take a Backroads ride along some roads and regions that are fun to ride during the summer but really come alive when the seasons and the colors begin to change.

NEW ENGLAND AND THE ADIRONDACKS

CHASING THE COLORS ADIRONDACKS LOOP - 107 miles

Peaking around September 25 – October 7

Download: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/ba4v9u

The northern edge of what we think of as our Backroads’ region has a lock on the earliest colors – these regions also have the advantage of trees – lots of trees – and they, as you might think, are key to the makings of an excellent “Chasing of the Colors!”

We have been exploring New york’s Adirondacks for decades and we are aware that there are just so many roads in New york’s largest park. But, lucky for us, most of them make for an easy and pleasurable ride – this route especially so in late September and early October.

In this article we will try to start off your colorful day trip from places we know, frequent and that have supported Backroads over the years. With that quid pro quo in mind it is time to circle the wagons and spend our time and cash with those that really encourage riders to stop by and help bring this magazine to you each month.

Let us start our romp into some of the oldest mountains on the planet with breakfast at Foote’s Port Henry Diner. you’ll find it along Lake Champlain at 5 St Patrick’s Place in the town of Port Henry, New york. It’s a great little place and the food cannot be beat.

From Port Henry we’ll be heading in a general westerly direction first up to Broad Street and then to one of our favorite pieces of pavement in these parts, Ensign Pond Road. This is a snaky bunch of miles that heads due west and toward the Adirondack Park from the shores of Lake Champlain.

At Route 9 we’ll head north and west a bit along Route 73 towards Lake Placid. But, we won’t be going there….yet.

Before that we must head up the road designated 86. We have always loved this route and it will bring us to the highest

Page 26

OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS and most incredible view that the Empire State has to offer – from the top of Whiteface Mountain.

There is a small fee to get onto this road but it is worth every penny as the fivemile road rises 2,300 feet before reaching a two-story castle constructed from the granite excavated from the highway construction.

From here you can hike (or take the elevator) to the top and to be astounded at the colors that go on for as far as the eye can see.

Back down to the main road we’ll continue west

to Route 3 and then loop back towards Lake Placid where you will find a number of place to overnight.

When we last stayed in Lake Placid, during one of our Backroads rallies, we choose the Golden Arrow on Main Street. They were very rider-friendly and we highly recommend this place.

Ny Resource: www.lakechamplainregion.com/stay/dining/footes-port-henry-diner www.golden-arrow.com www.wildcenter.org • Open Labor Day to Columbus Day 9am-5pm

CHASING THE COLORS - VERMONT -165 miles Download: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/tflm15 How about we start this ride at the bottom of the state and head north and deeper into the leafy kaleidoscope?

Like the Adirondacks, we have ridden the backroads of Vermont for many years and, more often than not, we have plopped ourselves in the southern reaches of the state and explored northward.

For this year’s Green Mountain State’s Chasing of the Colors we will naturally do the same and start from the rider-friendly town of West Dover. Here we have a few really comfortable inns from which to choose: the Gray Ghost, Kitzhoff Inn and the Big Bear Lodge all easily and conveniently found along Route 100.

100 has long carried legendary status with ordinary leaf peepers, but we aren’t that – so we will be improvising a bit.

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Our route will meander a bit as we head north to Stowe, Vermont and another rider-friendly hotel, the Commodores Inn, in this happening ski town.

We’ll only be on Route 100 for a short while before we will vector off to the northeast on Windham Hill Road and ride up towards Route 11 and back west.

When we catch up to 100 again the road scoots north toward Rochester and one of our favorite Vermont haunts – the Rochester Café’. Wonderful restaurant, fun store and excellent food – but make sure you save room for a maple milkshake!

Further north our route will take us west again on Scenic 125 up and over the Green Mountains and then north on Route 116 where we will again head east on the Appalachian Gap on Route 17.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017 This road rocks and the view from the top should be a high point of the 2017 colors season.

Continuing down the eastside we will once again take up Route 100 north, this time to Stowe and the Commodore Inn. Make time to explore the region – especially Smuggler’s Notch on Route 108 in the shadow of Mount Mansfield. It is like few other roads you will ride in the northeast.

Vermont Resources: www.grayghostinn.com • kitzhof.com bigbearslodge.com • commodoresinn.com

BAVARIAN CATSKILL COLORS LOOP – 160 Miles Download: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/yi521j The heart of the Catskills was the center of the American artists movement for years and with good reason. These old mountains are stunning and running along, between and betwixt them are some of the most comfortable and pleasant roads to be ridden.

This Fall Foliage Catskill Loop will start and finish at the Bavarian Manor Country Inn & Restaurant, in Purling, New York. We have stayed here many times and have brought groups there as well, always with rave remarks about the inn and the restaurant especially.

This 160-mile loop will begin along some locally named roads and then along the sweeping and easy roads that the area is known for, winding up and down the foothills before heading down along the Schoharie Creek and into the Catskill Park proper.

Off of Route 28, often called New York’s Mother Road as it runs from the Hudson in the Catskills to the headwaters of the river in the Adirondacks, we will bank south and onto Big Indian at Oliverea, which will run up and

Page 27 over the mountain and into Frost Valley.

That castle you will pass has an interesting history as Julius Forstmann – founder of the Forstmann Woolen Company – broke ground on what would become known as the Forstmann Castle in 1916. For forty years this majestic property on 2,200 acres of the Catskill Mountains would serve as the summer home for the Forstmann family. The name of his valley evolved into the simpler Frost Valley we know today.

This road winds down the southern side of the mountain and along the West Branch of the Neversink River in the most delightful manner and soon you will find yourself at the Rondout Reservoir, part of the system that feeds New York City that wonderful water they have. We carry on around part of the reservoir and then head back up into the mountains near Sundown (the town not the time) on State Road 42.

Peekamoose has a number of really great waterfalls and there are pulloffs located right next to them so you can park easily enough to stop and see them.

This road will drop us off at the Ashokan Reservoir and we’ll head back to Route 28 west, once again, before taking Route 212 towards Woodstock – where you may or may not want to stop.

But, do make some time to visit Karma Triyana Dharmachakra, the Tibetan Buddhist monastery atop Meads Mountain Road – it is well worth the effort and time.

Page 28 Back down off this winding road we’ll make one more interesting stop along this Catskill Colors Loop at one of the coolest places we have ever featured in Backroads – Opus 40.

It took Harvey Fite nearly 40 years to create this wonder and it remains as one of the most unique and beautiful places in the United States, made even more vibrant by the fall hues coating the mountain background.

We can find a delicious and filling lunch at Maggie’s Krooked Café in Tannersville, but to first get there we’ll ride over the peaks again, this time on Platt Clove Road. Ride this one tenderly as it has some serious drop offs and the road can be fickle at times.

Heading back down Route 23A from Tannersville is a real treat in itself and then the route will bring us back to the Bavarian Mountain Inn where it will surely be time to park the bikes, take a shower and find an adult beverage for the porch before a great German meal later that evening.

OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

NEW YORK CATSKILLS, THE HUDSON VALLEY & NEW JERSEY Peaking around October 7 – 21

TWO RIVERS ROMP - 118 miles Download: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/k29iyg We’ll start this ride from the Borderland of New Jersey and New York at one of our regular stops, The Elias Cole, just south of High Point State Park on Route 23 in Sussex, New Jersey. Great breakfast, lunch and delicious pies – cash only – before heading north along the Delaware, through the southern Catskills and Shawangunk Mountains and ending up high above the Hudson River. It is a no brainer to head north into High Point State Park and, if you like, you can swing up to the monument on the top, which offers a multi-state view of the region and treetop vista of the foliage.

Back down on Route 23 we will cross the state line into New York and make our way up along the Delaware River on Route 97, through the infamous Hawks Nest – which is well worth a stop - and then our route will turn north along some tinier backroads in Forestburgh, past the cottage and pond where Stephen Crane wrote Red Badge of Courage in the late 1800s.

In Forestburgh, obviously, you will be surrounded by a plethora of colors as we head towards Route 42 and then 55 up and over the Shawangunk Mountains, east of Ellenville. Yet another impressive vista can be found atop here, as well as one or two impressive waterfalls.

Route 55 will be our friend almost all the way to the Hudson River Valley, even if we deal with a bit of town traffic through the few little burgs through which we’ll pass.

Route 9W south will bring us to Route 218 south that ribbons above the Hudson offering a tight fun ride on the roadway that hugs the cliff.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017

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Back on Route 9W we highly recommend the Barnstormer Barbeque in Fort Montgomery.

Geoff has been a master of smoke and fire for years and you will not find better ‘Q on this part of the river.

From here it is a quick and twisty jaunt up Bear Mountain, with a fabulous palette of colors surrounding the Bear Mountain Bridge, and to the top of Perkin Drive. Stroll out to the edge to see the most stunning panorama of the Hudson River Valley, stunning at any time of the year, but especially in early October.

New york / Catskill Resources: Bavarian Manor Country Inn: www.BavarianManor.com Karma Triyana Dharmachakra: kagyu.org Opus 40: www.opus40.org • Open Memorial Day thru October • Fee Maggie’s Krooked Cafe: www.krookedcafe.com Barnstormer BBQ: www.barnstormerbbq.com

then you will ride by the Allamuchy General Store, which will hopefully be fully operational the day you ride by after having a semitruck run through the place. If they are stop by and say hi and show some rider-support!

This ride will bring you right under the Paulinskill Viaduct; when completed in 1910, it was the largest reinforced concrete structure in the world; and then along some local roads that will, eventually after some wonderful miles, drop you into the Walpack Valley. This is a very remote region of New Jersey and absolutely stunning at this time of the year.

We have been trying to avoid the “dreaded” unpaved roads…but if you would like to see a stunner of a waterfall then follow the route to Buttermilk Falls.

If dirt gives you the willies, then ride around on the paved roads and run through the ghost town of Walpack and onto Tillman Road where the route picks up and we highly recommend a quick stop at Tillman Ravine. Things have

GREAT NEW JERSEY SKYLANDS FIREWORKS SHOW - 150 miles Download: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/hfu0j4 We would be remiss if we did not feature a bit of our own backyards in this special fall colors issue, so we will do another loop from a great bed & breakfast called The Whistling Swan, in Stanhope, New Jersey.

From The Whistling Swan we’ll head west into Allamuchy State Park and past Waterloo Village – an historic old place - and

never changed here and this is exactly as it was 1,000 years ago – enjoy!

Our route will continue east and up and over Sunrise Mountain where you will find a lookout along the road that rides the ridge.

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OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS They say location is everything and here in the Skylands this is it. To the north you can see to the Catskills and the west the Poconos.

Our ride today will bring us back down and into High Point State Park along a little used backroad and then over the peak on Route 23 and past the Elias Cole restaurant, one of two stops for lunch this day. Know the Elias Cole is cash only.

After lunch we will take a run on what Backroads considers our own private road course - County Road 519. Not that we’d ever do something that could be thought of as illegal, mind you.

For you BMW fans we’ll pass through Beemerville and Space Farms - part zoo, part museum – and then Branchville (our home town) before we will bring you back onto some smaller roads across the ‘Twin Bridges’. A mill, located between the two bridges, produced gun stocks for use in the Civil War. The mill was destroyed by fire in 1923 but the remnants can still be seen from the road as you pass over the bridges.

The Paulinskill is always a beautiful place and we use it often for photo shoots.

Another few miles will bring us to County Road 521 and our second suggested lunch spot, The Boat House. On a nice day an outside table by the lake can’t be beat and Kathy and crew do a marvelous job with the food and the ambiance. They have the best flowers we have ever seen in this region.

Our route will begin to head back to The Whistling Swan now along the roads that brought Backroads Magazine to this part of New Jersey in the first place.

We hope you enjoyed our backyard.

New Jersey Resources: www.whistlingswaninn.com • www.facebook.com/The-Elias-Cole

VIRGINIA & WEST VIRGINIA • Peaking around October 14 – November 5 THE VIRGINIAS – 290 miles (long day) • Download: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/v6benp We love the two states of Virginia and West Virginia so we thought we would end this Chasing with a final ride south of the Mason-Dixon Line and into the Old Dominion and Mountain States.

This ride will bounce in between the two states and start from the South Branch Inn in Moorefield, West Virginia. Head south and enjoy the last of 2017’s Chasing of the Colors!

We will get right into some seriously great and somewhat technical riding this day. Where most of the northeast is mostly easy and open, both of these states in this region can be tricky and attention should be amped up another notch this day.

Our first great bunch of miles will bring us through Lost River State Park. The word is wow.

This will set the pace for most of the day and from there we will be riding on some familiar

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017 roads for those who have been along on some of our Backroads Rallies or are just big time readers of this magazine.

Zep Road leads into…ta da – Back Road. Both awesome and not too far down these roads we will pick up Skyline Drive in Front Royal, Virginia.

For those who do not know - Skyline Drive is a 105-mile road that runs the entire length of the Shenandoah National Park along the top the Blue Ridge Mountains.

This time of year it can get a bit crowded on the weekend – but if you can finagle a mid-week run you should have a smooth and fun time of it.

We will head west on Route 33, another favorite that will spend miles going up and over both the mountains and the state lines.

From Route 33 we will head north to Seneca Rocks – which is an excellent place to stop for lunch and dessert, before heading north and back to Moorefield and the South Branch Inn.

West Virginia and Virginia Resources South Branch Inn: www.wvafun.com Lost River State Park: wvstateparks.com/park/lost-river-state-park Seneca Rocks Front Porch Restaurant: harpersoldcountrystore.com So there you have six different rides, almost 1,000 miles, Chasing the Colors all the way from New England to the Virginias. As you can see we have all these rides available for download on your GPS and if you don’t have or use one they are easy enough to follow along with a Manually Acquired Positioning System (a map) and come along for the ride too.

Enjoy the colors, they only last so long.

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Every couple of years the stars, schedule and friends align and all come together for a few days romp in and around the southern regions of Vermont.

For the 5th time we made plans at the Gray Ghost and the Kitzhof Inn, in West Dover, and announced our beginning of the week-day rally poolside during our Spring Break at the Stonewall Resort in West Virginia. We heard rooms were booking within minutes of the announcement.

Most readers of Backroads and the folks who come to these things are aware of these excellent inns in this part of the Green Mountain State – both clean, comfortable and VERy riderfriendly, so the plan was to meet up on a Sunday afternoon in mid-July. yes…Sunday!

The idea of the Squeeze is that we “squeeze” this rally into the start of the workweek. Why, you ask? Well, years back we realized that there is little if any traffic for riding on Monday and Tuesday compared to the crowds who flock to Vermont each summer weekend. Thus the Summer Squeeze in the beginning of the work week.

Both inns did well as far as rooms went and they both would be hosting dinners – the Gray Ghost on Monday and the Kitzhof on Tuesday.

We had columnist and his wife Mark and Betsy Byers join us on Saturday at Backroads Central for an overnight as they traveled up from Maryland and, early Sunday, we took off on our own ride that meandered up through New Jersey into New york’s counties before following a very circuitous route that took us along lakes, mountains, valleys and some stunning state

OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

parks before dropping us off at the bottom of Route 100 in Vermont. It was interesting to note how many roads that were once afterthoughts from the states are now paved and, more importantly, drained with runoffs and culverts; lessons from Hurricane Irene a few years back. From there it was a short dash to our digs in West Dover.

We got there later than most and both inn’s lots were full of a large variety of machines.

A great thing about our Backroads Rallies is that you will find all sorts of bikes here and they are all welcome (well, maybe not the really loud ones).

Harleys next to Hondas, BMWs parked next to Triumphs.

What you will find consistently is that all our riders look at motorcycling in a serious and almost professional manner. Real gear, high riding skills, well maintained bikes are the norm here.

Dinners were open that night so folks went where they wished but we walked over and had a large table at the nearby Two Tannery Road – a bit upscale but well worth it to start this Squeeze off. Two Tannery’s property was once owned by Teddy Roosevelt’s family and they have a set of his Colt pistols on display as well as a bar from the original Waldorf-Astoria. Nice!

I can’t remember laughing so hard at a meal in such a nice place for a long while – besides, they make killer cocktails too – must be the historic bar.

This night was as clear as you can imagine and the stars that domed Vermont were astonishing and extraordinaire as we all walked back towards the inns with our necks craned to the skies.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017

Day One Summer Squeeze Stars, Mountains, Tunnels and a lesson on how we build roads I was watching some of the old Little Rascals on YouTube when we were putting together the routes for this Summer Squeeze and took in the episode where Our Gang had the International Silver String Submarine Band.

This led directly to my ride for this trip – The Star Struck Underground Jungle Mountain Tour.

It would, hopefully, include underground star searching, mountains, stars both figuratively and speculatively and maybe a jungle too. All in just under 200, well-paved and pristine miles, if we didn’t run out of time.

Things never work out the way you plan them.

Although the first 50 or so miles were done on pristine (Okay maybe semipristine) pavement we soon ran into the familiar Vermont gravel roads.

These usually are not a problem, even for larger touring rigs and bikes with street tires – but then we came over one mountain that was a bit less maintained than the others. This caused a little red flag to pop up in my mind a

Page 33 few miles later when, around a bend down the rocky hill, I spied the DOT sign that said “Grading Ahead.”

That, by no means, is telling you the road is graded, but is basically being built. Not long down this road the dirt had been soaked, the gravel laid and the big grading machine was doing its job – which always makes for an interesting few miles.

All but one of the bikes in my group was the Adventure type, with slightly aggressive rubber, and this is what we bought these bikes for, right? The other BMW R1200RT, piloted by Ken, a new to us rider, was riding on touring tires but still did a super job of getting through this tough stretch of muck.

At the first bit of pavement our group waited patiently as I rode back to stop any others on the route and to try to contact Shira and company and have them go around the mountain the other way and meet us up on Mount Ascutney. I picked up one other guy, Scott, also on an adventure machine with semi-knobbies and we rode back down through the grading to pick up our group and continue on to the top of Mount Ascutney.

At 3,144 this mountain was one of the first State parks in Vermont, and its

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OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

summit roadway was built back in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corp. Today it makes for a somewhat challenging ride to the top and on our way up we met a doe, fawn and pheasant along the way – in the middle of the road – so proceed cautiously.

Up on top we were reunited with Shira’s group and, after taking in the forever view from the summit of Ascutney, our now slightly larger gaggle continued back towards the Connecticut River and crossed into the Live Free or Die state of New Hampshire on a covered bridge.

Lunch was taken at the Four Aces Diner, a Great All American Diner Run from a few years back, and then it was quickly back into Vermont, as we needed to find a star – that was underground.

Sticking to the underground stars theme - in Springfield, Vermont there is a remarkable mansion called the Hartness House – built and owned by James Hartness, who ran the local machine factory and later became Governor of the state. He was also a builder of impressive telescopes and the mentor of Russell Porter.

The mansion, now an inn, is stunning and the rooms each a piece of art, but it’s what is below that brought us to Springfield this day.

The Hartness Telescope Museum and Observatory is a unique underground museum on the Hartness House Inn estate grounds. The museum is reached by going into the inn’s 250-foot underground tunnel which leads to the eight room underground complex and museum.

Which was ironic after visiting Mr. Bronson- the Tunnel King.

Route 739 • Dingmans Ferry, PA • 570.828.1920

Charles Bronson was one of the biggest and brightest stars of his day, Starring in films such as The Great Escape, The Magnificent Seven and his own Death Wish films – he could always make my mom’s heart flutter, and with good reason as Bronson personified “Badassery!”

The actor died in August of 2003 and was buried here in Vermont near his beloved farm and now rests in the shadow of Mount Ascutney, the same peak we had just visited.

One of our group read the poem on the headstone and while doing that, out of nowhere, a haunting bluesy harmonica began to play softly – our friend Roy, ace blues harmonica player. It was as funny as it gets and we are sure Mr. Bronson would have been chuckling too.

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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017 The museum features over 300 exhibits chronicling the beginning of amateur telescope-making from 1910 right up to present. The Stellafane Astronomy Club displays many antique telescopes at the museum. The museum also features the artwork of Russell Porter, the founder of the Stellafane Club in 1921, and famed for his groundbreaking work to make the Hale Observatory at Mount Palomar a success.

Fittingly it was also a Speakeasy during Prohibition, which adds to its gravitas.

This was fascinating and well worth seeking out. Better yet, stay at the Hartness House itself and take in the whole thing!

My best-laid plans were running very late now, and thoughts of searching out alien petroglyphs along the Connecticut River and stopping by Rudyard Kipling’s home were dashed by a heavy front of thunderstorms quickly heading in from the Adirondack to the west.

It was now a race back to West Dover, trying to stay ahead of the storms – which we did to a point.

Others this day went on their own adventures – heading along the paved road of the state to Ben & Jerry’s, the Precision Museum and others points. A few of them got hit squarely by the storms with heavy, rains, winds and hail.

Good times kids, good times.

All made it back safely and Carina and the Gray Ghost put out a wonderful group dinner for this night.

After dinner we had a short talk

Page 35 from Eric Milano, owner of MotoVermont – who told us of his rentals, tours and dual sport riding instruction and Backroads did a class on how to repair tubeless tires on the road using Stop & Go’s Tire repair kits. By now you might have heard that after years of serving the riders of America with the best in books and two-wheel products Whitehorse Gear has closed their doors for good. Dan and Judy are outstanding and, even closed, they continued this by sending over a bunch of books and videos for us to give away. Thank you guys so much!

All in all, the first full day of the 2017 Summer Squeeze was a full, informative and fun day even if it ended with Biblical storms slashing the Green Mountains.

Day Two Summer Squeeze Dual Sportin’, Stuffed critters and more Ice Cream?

A few of us wanted to join Eric Milano this next day for his dual sport ride.

Columnist Mark Byers and our friend Scott ditching their street machines and renting two of MotoVermont’s small Honda 250 dirt bikes for the day – great choice. Joining us was our friend Mark on a BMW F700GS with 50/50 knobbie tires.

The dual sport adventure left a little after 9am, hitting right into the dirt roads that rule Vermont.

Just a bit slick this morning from the previous night’s rain, I dialed the Africa Twin back to get a grip on the grip of the Honda’s Dunlop tires.

Our crew on the Honda XR250s disappeared around the bend.

I knew I better get my rear in gear if I was going to stay with the boys this day.

Page 36

OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

Then things began to happen – the first being cutoff by a Club Car coming out of a golf resort and stuffing me into a turn. Beaten by a golf cart I steeled my resolve and brought it up a bit and then, when I did finally catch up and got back with our little gravely gaggle I got ahead to take some pictures of them enjoying the day.

You know you may be in a bit more trouble when your friends all stop to point behind you in the Vermont wilderness. Well, hello Mr. Bear!

The stunning scenery that Eric brought us through can be seen from nowhere else in Vermont. Not Scenic Route 100, or atop the ski slopes.

No. To discover this part of Vermont you have to ride into, not around the wilderness. It was spectacular.

We stopped along the Battenkill River at the home of Norman Rockwell and took a private tour of his studio where he created all those great Americana memories. Okay, some might call it B & E, but the door was unlocked and I invoked New Jersey law. (In Jersey everything’s legal as long as you don’t get caught).

Eric brought us to a small general store outside Sandgate – where it was sandwiches, sody-pop and Doritos on the porch before we followed him up a long gravel hill to the home of Strictly Hodaka and their Hodaka Museum.

The museum is a private collection and there is none more complete or interesting in the United States. A truly amazing bevy of Hodakas to be seen and worthy of its own story here in Backroads.

The 250 boys were going off on what Eric called a bit more challenging roads. I got his drift so I, along with our friend Mark, decided to take off on our own and scooted to the top of Mount Equinox.

This mountain, that rises some 3,840 feet, has some spectacular views, but be prepared to shell out for this pleasure, as they now charge motorcycles twelve bucks for the privilege of riding the Auto Road to the top.

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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017 Still well worth it if you have never been there before and, as we did Ascutney on the east side of Vermont the previous day, I thought Equinox on the west side was worth the effort.

A few other tidbits of useless information about this peak: there was once a hotel atop the mountain, but that has been replaced by a Visitors Center based around the local monastery - Saint Bruno Viewing Center.

You can still see an old NORAD Radar Station from the Cold War atop this peak but the really odd part of Equinox was that a private Vermont-based firm, Renew, Inc., had planned to preserve the bodies of several prominent high-IQ individuals for future reawakening. The project was hastily abandoned due to fraud allegations. The tunnel to their “facility” has now collapsed but can be found on the northwest side of the mountain.

Why is Futurama coming to mind?

We were in Mark’s backyard so he led the rest of the day bringing us through many miles of gravely fun before we got back to the Gray Ghost that evening where the pool and a cold one were awaiting.

While I was out eating dirt, Shira, as per instruction from Dr. Seymour

Page 37

O’Life, brought a few to the Pember Library & Natural History Museum which houses one of the greatest and oddest taxidermy collection to be seen anywhere.

Franklin T. Pember was born in South Granville, New York in 1841, the son of prosperous farmers. An early collector of natural specimens, Pember began this collection when he was only 21.

Actually a fur trader by profession his menagerie spanned the globe and it’s there to be seen today in Granville, New York, right over the Vermont border. He did much of the work himself and we are sure Seymour has a bit more to say on this place. Shira has promised to bring me there next time we are in the region.

After the museum Shira led a ride over hill, dale, and mountain pass to, of all things, lu•lu’s Ice Cream Shop . Shocking, right?

While all this was going on Dan Bisbee, who has grown into legendary status for

Page 38

OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

bringing our ralliers on stupendous day trips, did it again with a trip to his family’s mill in Massachusetts. There were raves all around on this one too.

This night it was Simon and Allison’s turn at the Kitzhof Inn’s to put on the culinary show and Simon’s fish & chips were off the chart – he better do it right with that English accent. The night was finished with guitar by Johnny Rocket on the front porch and the fire pit blazing. Typical Summer Squeeze and we wouldn’t want it any other way.

The next morning saw everyone packing, hugging and saying goodbye, stay in touch & can’t wait till next time going around.

Our ride brought us south into Massachusetts and up to the top of Mount Greylock the state’s highest point and the third in my “trilogy of mountains” and a great way to finish off this 2017 Squeeze.

This year’s Summer Squeeze saw old friends returning and some new friends joining the ranks. Shira and I hope you all keep coming back.

If you keep coming, we’ll keep the backroads coming…

Till next time.

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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017

Page 39

DIRTY VERMONT

Come Ride the Dragon Deals Gap 318 Curves in 11 Miles

words: Mark Byers When I heard Eric Milano of Moto Vermont was going to hold a dual-sport ride out of the Gray Ghost Inn during the Summer Squeeze, I was elated.

Vermont is chock full of dirt roads (the company claims more than 1,000 miles of them) and some technical trails, so the ability to rent one of their superb Honda CRF-250L’s was more than I could pass up. The included GPS mounts on all the bikes were a huge plus and my Garmin held tight the whole way, as did the sturdy Enduro tank bag that was also included.

The paperwork was easy and on Tuesday morning, two CRF’s, a BMW F700GS, and an Africa Twin followed Eric north on Route 100 for the start of a 100-plus-mile day that included a great mix of paved and dirt roads and even a couple more technical sessions for those of us on the CRF’s. Eric’s knowledge of the local roads and trails was encyclopedic and he picked routes with both historical (Norman Rockwell’s former home) and motorcycling (Hodaka museum) sights.

Not long after we started, we came around a corner to see Mr. Rathjen shooting away at us with his camera, oblivious to the fact that a black bear was about 200 yards up the road, watching us with interest. It was a really special way to start a dual-sport day in sunny Vermont. Eric was really good about stopping for us to catch our breath, get a drink, and to check out the local sights, even the unplanned ones.

Moto Vermont not only offers a variety of bikes, from the road-going R1200RT to the Africa Twin to the nimble CRF-250L, but they also offer a variety of tours and services, from off-road tours, to on-road tours, to multi-day excursions to as far away as Atlantic Canada. Engage one of their guides or go it alone. From a dual-sport perspective, not only do they offer guided rides, but they also do training to get you more comfortable with getting dirty (but not down).

Don’t worry about your abilities too much: Eric has a knack for assessing his customer’s limits and is not going to force you to go anyplace to which you don’t want to go. On our ride, we kissed off the Africa Twin and the F700 after lunch so we could take the CRF’s on a rock-strewn path. Later in the day, when one CRF guy signaled that his fun meter was pegged, Eric chose a route that placed him six miles from the Ghost, right on the main road.

Earlier in the day, I’d asked for a stream crossing and Eric looked at me and said, ‘There’s one on this next stretch’. A short time later, after a descent down a pretty rocky trail, we crossed a small stream and were soon back on a dirt road again. The detail he has in his head about these things is amazing. If you want to experience it, contact them at motovermont.com, 802.860.mOtO, or info@motovermont.com.

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Page 40

OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

AUTUMN ON THE ROAD

SCHOODIC SCENIC BYWAY

words: Rick Rodriquez In the beautiful state of Maine in the Downeast region lies the popular town of Bar Harbor. What usually pops into everyone’s mind besides lobster is Acadia National Park and the loop through Cadillac Mountain, which is a must see. Make it to the top before sunrise and you could be one of the first people, on the east coast, to witness the sun as we rotate toward it.

The Schoodic peninsula has a scenic byway that is not as popular but a real gem. Uncrowded. Unspoiled. ‘Savor the unexpected’ is the catch phrase used by the Schoodic Chamber of Commerce. There is also a sign designating it as a Blue Star Memorial Highway. Blue Star Memorial Highways are marked to pay tribute to U.S. Armed Forces. The program was started by The National Garden Clubs Inc. after World War II.

The rouTe Traveling on US 1 North in the town of Hancock, prior to crossing Frenchman Bay, is a large rock inscribed to inform you of your arrival. Continue about 8.5 miles and turn right on Gouldsboro Rd. You will enter the town of Winter Harbor where the byway turns left on Main St. If the hunger pains suggest attention, you can address that concern at Chases Restaurant at 193 Main Street. They feature all of the local cuisine. Belly full take a right on Moore Rd. You’ll soon be entering Acadia National Park. This part of the ride is the most scenic and worth stopping, as there are two points with parking lots where you can dismount and take in the views, the first of which is Frazer Point. A census from the 1700’s indicates Thomas Frazer and his family as the first non-native inhabitants of the point. He was a free African American who operated a salt works, a muchneeded commodity for fishermen wishing to preserve their catch. Frazer Point has a picnic area, a wooden pier, which is a popular fishing site, and rest rooms. Continuing on down Moore Road you can bear right following the signs to Schoodic Point.

Schoodic Point offers spectacular views of Frenchman Bay, Mount Desert Island and Cadillac Mountain. The pounding waves against the granite rock is quite a sight. Be careful not to venture too close to the edge of the rocks as waves can be unpredictable and dangerous.

Leaving Schoodic Point traveling along Schoodic Dr. you’ll enjoy additional views that the Gulf of Maine has to offer. You can make a right on 186 back to Route 1 or make a left and that

will bring you back to the beginning of the byway. You can make a right and head up 1 and make a left on 186 which is the Blackwoods, another scenic byway. Either way you definitely want to take your time and have a camera charged up. As the Federal Highway commission puts it, this is the “quiet” side of Acadia National Park. The landscape remains unspoiled, revealing a part of Maine where lobstering and clamming are still a tradition. Discover the local artisans’ crafts and let the mountains, coastal islands, historic buildings, and lighthouses enchant you.

I could not have said it any any better. www.schoodicbyway.org

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017

PRODUCT REVIEW

Page 41

SENA 20S EVO • THE EVOLUTION OF BLUETOOTH

We have been using Sena 20S for a number of years now when traveling on bikes other than our own, but this season, at Shira’s insistence, we “cut the cord” as it were and went Bluetooth on our own machines back home.

There are a number of B/T communications systems on the market these days and Sena has been both revolutionary and evolutionary with their approach.

Backroads recently got hold of the latest version of their top-of-the-line 20S EVO and took them, right out of the box, on a two-week tour of Brittany and Normandy, France.

Trial by fire we thought.

As the name suggests this is more along the evolutionary way of thinking.

Our 20S B/T Comms did great work, but had one or two flaws that we hoped Sena would deal with – the most annoying was that the 20S would allow the GPS to break-in and interrupt conversations with directional prompts. It might seem a small thing, but very annoying when riding some of our own GPX routes in the backroads heavy northeast.

We were told this was addressed by Sena.

Although the cradle for the Evo seems the same as the original 20S, the unit itself is different in design. Gone is the “flip-up” antenna, replaced with a much slicker “shark fin” set-up. This sleek new antenna design improves upon intercom stability and even secures the intercom distance while updates to the hardware allow for an even more robust general performance update.

With the new 20S Evo you can stay in touch with up to eight other riders up to 2 km (1.2 miles) away, through the Group Intercom™ feature. Nice to know, but I would be hard pressed to have too many riders talking on a ride.

As with the previous model the distance you can be apart does affect performance. Using the units on straight line-of-sight flat ground works better than getting separated in hilly terrain where you will begin to get signal loss. This comes right back when you get closer.

The 20S EVO still delivers superb audio quality that’s clear and defined in most conditions.

No radio noise and static at all with these – which was a problem with older radio-type communication systems.

Sena’s Advanced Noise Control™ ensures ambient noise doesn’t interfere with incoming and outgoing audio. The latest Bluetooth 4.1 technology, highquality stereo speakers, and dual-module architecture work very well, loud and clear – but, we opted for our own personal ear plugs and the EVO, like other Senas, have a female output jack for these.

The new Sena is also very easy to pair with various Bluetooth devices – such as a BMW Navigator VI that came with our bike in France. I was paired and ready to go in less than a minute; a very easy operation.

As I said, our one real problem with the 20S was having the GPS squelching our conversations and, indeed, with the new Sena 20S EVO Audio Multitasking™ technology it allows you to have an intercom conversation while simultaneously listening to music, FM radio, or –most important - the GPS direction prompts.

The simplified user interface makes setting up and pairing your 20S EVO incredibly easy, thanks to Sena’s motion sensor technology. Pair your Bluetooth devices with a simple shake of the 20S EVO. Once you’re on the road, complete control of the 20S EVO can be done through hands-free voice commands.

Linking the 20S EVO with the Sena Headset App (for iPhone and Android) allows you to configure device settings and access your quick guide at the click of a button. The 20S EVO can also easily connect to the Sena RideConnected App to intercom with a virtually limitless amount of riders over an infinite range, so long as you are connected to a mobile network.

Again, more riders than I will ever need to communicate with – but the option is there.

Although you can buy individual 20S EVO units, as a couple we chose the Dual kit that comes with two units as a set. Perfect for couples or two riders who stick together most times.

In the evolution of Bluetooth communications things have just taken another step forward.

The 20S EVO Motorcycle Bluetooth Communication System Dual Pack sells for $549 and can be found at the Sena website or at a Sena dealer near you. www.sena.com

Page 42

OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

AUTUMN ON THE ROAD

RIDE

FOR

CHEESE

AND

PUPPETS

words + images: Victor Cruz Think Vermont and you think of ski mountains, maple syrup, Ben & Jerry’s, Robert Frost, church steeples, and cheddah.

It’s not just the postcard-perfect scenery, the horse pastures or dairy cows with their borderline pleasant stink, that make the region so alluring. It’s not the wide-open spaces or its verdant mountains so named by early French fur traders. It’s not the wooden floor of general stores that creak underfoot, or the charm-invested towns filled with wholesome eats, towns with zero need for traffic lights. It’s the roads. Roads carved by stony rivers… hardly a mile goes by on the straights.

Roads incomparable to any other in New England. (Even the dirt roads here are well manicured.) Serpentine-like pavement, some of it pink that hop, skip and jump via elevation shifts. Your bike gets a fine workout. The best part is this: Vermont roads are traffic-free for miles on end. Well, as much as any road can possibly get. Easy enough to pass a farm tractor, even legally on a double yellow, and nary a traffic cop to hinder progress.

On this 350-mile epic sojourn, you’ll hit a few rough patches but these bumps absorb easily by suspension. A combination of sweepers and twists, co-mingling with a landscape that’s forever morphing into something different, will leave you feeling elated and exhausted, the guilty pleasure of Shira’s cone scoop or après-ride beer highly well-earned.

On this all-paved ride you’ll have ample chances to cut time short by hopping onto I-91 if you so choose, or else locate your starting gate further north to reduce mileage. The key here is getting to Cabot (for cheese) and Glover (for puppets).

Get an early start from the Kitzholf Inn in Dover, a biker-friendly B&B (and supporter of these pages). You’re already on VT-100, the most famous of biker paths.

VT-100 can also get crowded. It’s true, it’s tested, but it’s tired too. Time for something more technical and off-beat.

Because many Vermont towns are so tiny, you can select “townships” on your GPS and be secure in knowing you won’t stray off-course. (Full list of waypoints follows) From VT-100 north you’ll go right on VT30 for less than a mile before turning left on Windham Hill Rd, a shady forested road with more rabbits than people.

Less than an hour later you’ll pass through the quaint town of Chester, coming in on VT-11. If you must stop, grab a maple latte at Moon Dog Café or better yet ride another 40 mins. on VT-106 to Woodstock and Mon Vert Café at 28 Central St. Park your bikes facing west, since you’ll be going north again on Elm Street/VT-12 but only briefly since the road splits right to Pomfret Rd which turns into Howe Hill Rd and its sweepers. You’ll cross over the White River to catch VT-14 north to VT-110 into Tunbridge, and its Mill Covered Bridge. You won’t want to ditch VT-110 since it’s the forgotten sister to VT-100. Next waypoint is Corinth, a tricky navigation from Tunbridge. You’ll need to plug in Corinth otherwise your GPS may default to Highway 302.

On the way to Corinth, you’ll turn right at Chelsea on 113 then left on Goose Green, then right on Chelsea Rd which bends left to become Brook.

(Confused? Our waypoints will guide you.)

Purpose here is to position yourself well to roll onto one of the best roads, Powder Spring. Tap in 10 Powder Spring Rd, Topsham, to ensure you don’t miss it. It’s a roller coaster. This deposits you to 302. From here, you could go east to pick up I-91, but you’ll lose your cheese in Cabot. Next set of waypoints are Peacham then Danville.

You might be tempted instead to take 232 through Groton State Forest, but the Peacham-Danville ridge road is in better shape and affords panoramic views of New Hampshire’s Presidential range.

Danville deposits you on Hwy 2, which is like a turnpike compared to the backroads you’ve been riding all day. Hwy 2 west will take you to 215 north or default you to Danville Hill Rd, which is groomed dirt. If you ever face dirt, continue in your general direction until the GPS picks up pavement again. Here you have the option of stopping 12 miles later for a sampling of about 20 cheeses: chipotle, jalapeño, horseradish, etc., at the Cabot cheese factory on 215. From Cabot you head further north for 28-miles to rustic Parker Pie Co. (161 County Rd, West Glover, VT), your late lunch waypoint.

Also in Glover, a no-town with a population of 966, is the most amazing and bizarre sight you’ll ever see.

An enormous two-story dry-as-a-matchstick barn full of 40-year old retired puppet families, some 15-ft tall, rainbow colored and dirty white. Not so much museum as graveyard. You have to turn the lights on and re-

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017

Page 43

MOTORCYCLE TRAILERS DAYTONA, BIKETOBERFEST, STURGIS AND BEYOND

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member to turn them off when you leave. Here, you can see God, phantasmagoric in the rafters, staring down on your trite mortality. Actors in Bread & Puppet productions wore all white, and gave out free bread to audiences in Central Park, protesting the Vietnam war. (Address: 753 Heights Rd, Glover, VT).

From here you’re only three miles to I-91 south for your leisurely 170-mile, 3-hour loop back to Dover. In less than 90 minutes you’ll take exit 8 to VT-131 east, a nice river road that hooks up with 103 before connecting to classic VT100 south to Kitzholf Inn, a perfect way to end an epic ride. (Address: 332 VT100, West Dover, VT. www.kitzholf.com).

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GPS Download: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/gcpaef (Please note that GPS route may differ slightly from written directions) Victor Cruz is a 16-year member of the Yankee Beemers, serving as Secretary and editor. he’s organized group tours through AZ, CA, Co, NM, Canada and Europe. A long-time contributor to Backroads and BMW oN, you contact him at vcruz@mediapr.net.

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Page 44

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

J&M PERFORMANCE BT-03 BLUETOOTH COMMUNICATIONS

J&M has long been the leader in motorcycle communication and sound systems and they are now offering their own Bluetooth communication System.

The BT-03 series Bluetooth helmet headset has been designed for installation into most flip-up modular, full-face or open-face style helmets.

This headset features J&M’s miniature boom style microphone, ultra-slim mount-in-helmet speakers in stereo and new full-featured BT-03 Bluetooth control headset with easy to install clamp-on mounting system. This helmet headset kit includes all necessary mounting hardware, USB charger/adapter cable, aux input cable and complete installation/operation instructions.

What separates J&M’s Bluetooth® helmet headsets from all the rest?

First off, the audio performance of J&M’s elite series Bluetooth headsets will rival that of their best corded headsets, so you don’t have to sacrifice good sound when going wireless. J&M’s elite series features both the boom and chin-bar mount style AeroMike VI microphones for the very best in wind and ambient noise cancelling at highway speeds.

The BT-03 has easy to feel and operate external controls for volume up/down, helmet to helmet linking, multifunction button call answer/initiate/linking and on/off.

The BT-03 features the CSR Bluecore8 module, for easy pairing to most Bluetooth enabled audio devices, including iPhone, Android & Windows Smartphones, Bluetooth enabled GPS units, Bluetooth enabled MP3 and iPod type music devices, along with direct headset linking to specific Bluetooth compatible motorcycle audio systems like the Indian Chief, Honda CTX 1300 & Honda GL1800 with J&M custom A2DP dongle.

The multifunctional Bluetooth 4.1 software package includes standard profiles of HSP, HFP, A2DP Stereo & AVRCP, along with the J&M Exclusive helmet-tohelmet intercom profile. Up to four headsets can be paired together for crystal clear intercom communications at distances of up to ½ mile. The BT-03 Control Head is powered by a rechargeable Lithium power cell providing all day 14-18 hours of use from a full charge.

The unit is versatile, easy to install component design to allow removal of the control headset for in-house charging away from the helmet. Periodic software updates are available from the J&M website, via USB download using Windows 7, 8 or 10. J&M promises, “You will not find a better performing Bluetooth helmet headset anywhere, you have our name on it.”

The J&M BT-03 Kits start at $199 and you can log onto their website to see more and the rest of their excellent products. www.jmcorp.com

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017

Page 45

AUTUMN ON THE ROAD

TOURING

THE

COLORS - NOT

words + images: Josh Karvakko It’s autumn and we’re riding in my favorite place to see the shades of red, orange, and yellow that the leaves usually offer this time of year. This is the Keweenaw Peninsula, which is located in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan.

The problem is that this year, it seems that the leaves are staying green for an extraordinarily long time. Although this puts a damper on our planned color tour, we are taking advantage of a beautiful 68° sunny day to ride.

I’m riding a Ducati Monster 821 with my wife Carrie as a passenger. My friends Jeff and Andy are also riding along. Jeff has an older Ducati Monster and Andy is riding his Harley Davidson FXR. Our starting point is Hancock, where we head on Highway M-203, which runs along the Portage Canal. I’m instantly grateful for my choice of motorcycle as the road is full of knee dragging curves. However, we have to be mindful of our speed as the road passes by many houses that are mere feet from its shoulder.

M-203 ends in Calumet, where it intersects with US Highway 41. We only stay on the highway for about five miles until we reach Ahmeek. Here we turn on to Five Mile Point Road. This route has been chosen due to both the

abundance of switchback curves and beautiful scenery. About halfway through this twelve mile stretch of road, while traveling down a long gradual hill, you can see the clear blue water of Lake Superior over the trees that run along the shore. We all slow down to catch a glimpse of this before we continue our journey.

Eagle River is where we make our first stop to investigate the Eagle River Falls. We walk onto a pedestrian bridge that runs over the river gorge, where we get a great view of the falls. We lean against the guard rail, soak in the sun, and have some great conversation before we decide to carry on with our excursion.

We are now riding on Highway M-26, which runs along the west shore of the Keweenaw. The view is filled with beautiful sand dunes and Lake Superior. As with most of the roads on this trip, there is an abundance of great

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OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

curves, but we must remain cautious. The wind tends to carry the sand from the dunes onto the road, causing somewhat treacherous conditions in some areas. We also pass another waterfall called Jacob Falls.

This one is nowhere near as large as Eagle River Falls, but it is still unique as it is only approximately twenty feet from the road.

It’s time to eat! There is a decent selection of places strung across this, but many are either expensive, busy, or both. That’s why we choose the Eagle Harbor Inn, located in, you guessed it, Eagle Harbor. This is a bar, restaurant, and hotel all rolled into one place. The near empty parking lot and outstanding food make this the perfect lunch stop for our ride. I’m a sucker for a good olive burger and they have one of the best I’ve ever eaten. We leave with full bellies and smiles on our faces.

As we travel further north, it’s more winding roads which are a blast, but again we have to be very cognizant of any rocks or sand in the lanes. We reach our next stop, Brockway Mountain. The road that leads to the peak is not much more than one lane and is bump ridden, so we make our ascent quite slowly. At the top, you can see for miles in each direction, which is rare for this region given the hilly terrain. One side of the mountain is a rock wall cliff and we get as close to edge as we dare. That’s not very close for Andy and Jeff, who aren’t too fond of heights.

Our next destination is Copper Harbor, the northern most community on US 41. Right in town there is a sign that reads, “Miami, FL - 1990.” That’s right, US 41 is nearly 2000 miles long and reaches Miami. We don’t stay long and begin to head south.

The northern portion of US 41 does not seem like a highway at all. In fact,

if it wasn’t for the signs, you’d think it was just a backcountry county road. The trees on both sides of the road come nearly together at their tops, creating a natural tunnel. Locally this is known as, “Covered Drive.” This stretch of road is not only full of curves, but also rolling hills, which together make quite an interesting and thrilling riding experience.

After riding about ten miles south of Copper Harbor, the trees clear and we turn onto Gay Lac La Belle Road (its name comes from the fact that it connects the towns of Gay and Lac La Belle). We make our way to the east shore of the Keweenaw, passing Mount Bohemia ski hill on the way.

The chairlift is operating for people to view the fall colors, even if they haven’t quite arrived yet. After passing through the town of Lac La Belle, we are pleasantly surprised by the freshly paved road, which allows us to fully take advantage of the twists and turns that this road has as it runs along the shoreline.

Our last stop is the Quincy Mine Hoist, which is really a great sight late in the day as the sun begins to set. This local attraction is a remnant from the copper mining industry that boomed in the area around the turn of the twentieth century. Here, we say our goodbyes and each head home in different directions.

Reflecting on the day, I realize that this ride couldn’t have been much better, fall colors or not. I’ll pick a great ride with great friends over a color tour every time.

Rip & Ride® • The WHISTLING SWAN INN 110 Main St, Stanhope, NJ 07874 • 973- 347-6369 • www.whistlingswaninn.com • Latitude: 40.905323 Longitude: -74.709445 Approx. 65 miles from New Hope, PA • www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/7zf5ap

FROM CANAL IN NEW HOPE, PA NORTH AND RIGHT OVER BRIDGE TO NJ LEFT AT RTE. 29 NORTH HARD RIGHT AT TUMBLE FALLS RD STRAIGHT AT BARBENTOWN IDELL RD LEFT AT CR 519 NORTH LEFT AT FAIRVIEW RD QUICK RIGHT AT HORSESHOE BEND RD LEFT AT RTE. 12 RIGHT AT CREEK RD LEFT AT CR 519 NORTH RIGHT AT SKY MANOR LEFT AT PITTSTOWN RD RIGHT AT CR 513 NORTH

RIGHT AT RTE. 173 LEFT AT RTE. 31 RIGHT AT ROCKY RUN RD LEFT AT BUNNVALE RD STRAIGHT AT WOODGLEN RD LEFT AT ANTHONY / HOLLOW RD RIGHT AT MUSCONETCONG RIVER RD RIGHT AT RTE. 57 LEFT AT RTE. 24 RIGHT AT WILLOW GROVE ST RIGHT AT RTE. 206 BEAR LEFT TO RTE. 183 AND ONTO MAIN STREET WHISTLING SWAN DOWN ON RIGHT

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2017

Page 47

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival do not cheap Out on motorcycle insurance Andrew S. Prince, Attorney at Law Every day we are all bombarded by the insurance industry competing against each other for your motorcycle and car insurance. Without exception, all the ads on television, radio and in print media follow the same theme.

“Call us we are here to save you money.” “We promise that if you give us 15 minutes of your time we will save you 15% on your insurance.” One company now says “give us 7 minutes.” And so on and so forth.

When you save money on your motorcycle insurance or car insurance all you really are doing is buying less coverage and protection. Why do I say this? When you buy a minimum amount of insurance coverage ($15,000.00 in NJ) for the cheapest price available, all you are doing is not protecting yourself and family in a big way. The insurance industry wants to sell insurance, just not bigger policies.

By way of example if you would purchase a minimum car or motorcycle insurance policy for $15,000.00 you would be running the risk that if you are hurt by another vehicle operator’s negligence, the chances are very good that the person hurting you will also maintain a minimum amount of insurance in the amount of $15,000.00. How will you then be compensated properly if you are injured? If you had purchased the private passenger vehicle maximum, $500,000.00 on your motorcycle policy, you will then be provided underinsurance protection in the amount of $485,000.00 greater than the minimum amount by the individual that hurt you. This policy of containing under-insurance of $500,000.00 as compared to a $15,000.00 policy is much cheaper than you think. For less than a dollar a day, you can pick up an additional $485,000.00 worth of coverage a year to protect you and your family in case you are seriously injured in a motorcycle accident. This should be a “no brainer.”

I would urge you to immediately look at your motorcycle insurance policy.

I would urge you to do the same with your automobile insurance policy. If you are maintaining insurance in the amount of $15,000.00 to even

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$100,000.00 worth of coverage I am telling you that for a few dollars more a year, you can go up to at least $250,000.00 on your motorcycle (PROGRESSIVE INSURANCE now offers $500,000.00 uninsured and underinsurance UM/UIM endorsement on a bike) to $500,000.00 of coverage and protection on your automobile and (and possibly more with an umbrella policy that provides UM/UIM coverage).

You will never hear your insurance company or your insurance agent try to convince you to increase your motorcycle and automobile insurance coverage. They are happy selling you minimum coverage and protection. Maximizing your insurance coverage is a wonderful gift to yourself and your family for very little extra money and the insurance industry does not want you to know about it.

I do not have enough space in this particular article to convince you here of “not to cheap out on your motorcycle insurance.” Therefore, I would urge you, after reading this article, to call, email or fax your insurance questions to me at no charge. Free advice he saying “penny wise and dollar foolish” was never more apropo than when it comes to our society and its purchase of motorcycle and car insurance. The insurance industry has us all brainwashed by the bombardment of advertising to save money. Remember saving money only equals receiving less protection for you and your family.

Need advice? Call me before it is too late. It is always a free consultation.

I will review your insurance coverage for free. It is my pleasure to do so. For more motorcycle insurance information, call me at 1-(800)-TEAM-LAW or MotorcycleinjuryNJ.com.

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OCTOBER 2017 • BACKROADS

UP C OM I N G E VE NT S CAL END AR

What’s Happening

EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTING

NOVEMBER 2017

Every Tuesday • Two Wheeled Tuesday at Spiegel Restaurant • 26 1st Avenue, NyC. An eclectic gathering of motorcycles served with multi-cuisine meals. Kick some tires, have some couscous, enjoy the crowd • www.spiegelnyc.com • 212-228-2894

18 • 5th USMC Toys for Tots ride by the Tier Rats Law Enforcement MC. Sign in: Miller’s Ale House-Deer Park, Ny @ 8:30/KSU 11am sharp; Endsite: Miller’s Ale House, Levittown, Ny. $15/pp with unwrapped toy; $20/pp w/out toy • www.tierratsmc.co

Every Tuesday • Bike Night @ The Ear Inn, 326 Spring St, NyC Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-In, Rtes. 15/206, Augusta, NJ. Tire kicking, good food and friends • www.chatterboxdrivein.com Every Saturday thru October • Bergen County Harley Davidson Saddle Up Saturday.

9am for coffee and bagels. Ride departs at 10am. Return to the dealership for FREE food and music. Proper attire MUST be worn! No shorts or sneakers. BCHD, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenharleydavidson.com Thru October 8 • AACA Museum: Garage Finds - Unrestored Treasures that Survived Time • Hershey, PA • AACAMuseum.org • 717-566-7100 Thru October 29 • AACA Museum: Dream Machines - Lory Lockwood Art Display • Hershey, PA • AACAMuseum.org • 717-566-7100

SEPTEMBER 2017 30-Oct. 1 • Max BMW’s Festival @ Hunter Mountain. In addition to Hunter Mountain’s Oktoberfest, MAX BMW will host stunt shows by ‘Teach’ McNeil, guided dual sport tours, charlift rides, and a Big Bike Enduro Challenge. Camping & other lodging available. Full details: MaxBMW.com • facebook.com/maxbmwmotorycles.com

OCTOBER 2017 8 • Wantage Twnshp 10th Annual Veterans Car, Truck & Bike Show (10/15 Rain Date) • Sign in/Endsite: Woodbourne Park, 145 Sherman Ridge Rd, Wantage, NJ • 11am-4pm • $15 pre-reg/$20 day of show/Free spectator admission - setup by 10am • Benefits Welcome Home Vets Fund of NJ, Inc. • Food, refreshments, live music door prizes, 50/50, tricky tray and trophies awarded • 973-352-9203 12 • Rollin’ Fast Cycle Sports Bike Night • 6-9pm • Music, food truck, bike of the night contest • 1221 Route 22 E, Lebanon, NJ • 908-236-9000 • rollinfast.com 15 • 29th Annual Harvey C. Irons Make-A-Wish Ride hosted by Blue Knights NJIX. For full details please see ad below • bknjix.org

14-19 • BACKROADS CLASS Rally. Ride to and from VIR with a small group. Details: www.backroadsusa.com/rallies.html 15 • Ramapo MC Club Fall Foliage Tour to benefit the Valerie Fund for childhood cancer research. Guided or self-guided tour along Hudson Valley’s autumn foliage roads. Sign in: Rhodes North Tavern, 40 Orange Tpke, Sloatsburg, Ny @ 9am. Details: Kent Sullwold (845) 304-3454 • kms.elec.engr@gmail.com • www.ramapomc.org

DECEMBER 2017 1-3 • Progressive International Motorcycle Shows - Javits Center, NyC

FEBRUARY 2018 9-11 • Timonium Motorcycle Show with expanded Travel, Touring & Adventure Riding Feature Section. Presentation all three days by some of the world’s most famous adventure riders like Lisa & Simon Thomas, Alisa Clickenger, John Jesson of Ayres Adventures and Rob Beach of Beach’s Adventures…to name a few. Maryland State Fairgrounds, timonium, MD • www.cycleshow.net • 410-561-7323

MARCH 2018 11-20 • BACKROADS OF ECUADOR TOUR. Join a VERY small group of Backroads’ readers for an amazing tour with Court and Sylvain (and Salina the Wonder Dog) of Ecuador Freedom Bike Rentals. See page ?? or visit their website for full details, pricing and availability • www.FreedomBikeRental.com If you have an event you would like listed, please print out the form on our website and mail or fax it to us as soon as possible for the best coverage of your event • www.backroadsusa.com/events.html

BACKROADS, POB 620, Augusta, NJ 07822 • 973-948-0823

Now Hiring: Advanced & Entry Level Motorcycle Technician The BMW motorcycling community is growing which means Bob’s BMW Service Department needs to expand!

Bob’s BMW Motorcycles (Jessup, MD) is currently looking for an advanced and entry-level motorcycle technician. If you have experience working on motorcycles, scooters, dirt bikes, ATVs, etc.—any year, make, or model—we are interested in learning more about your skills.

If you just love motorcycles, but have no actual experience working on them, Bob’s BMW offers a paid apprenticeship. The apprenticeship offers hands-on training, working beside a BMW Certified Master Technician, plus we will pay for your BMW certification. Upon successfully receiving your BMW certification, you will officially be a Certified BMW Technician working in a state-of-the art facility for one of the largest, most respected BMW Motorcycle dealerships on the East Coast, that offers year around work and great benefits to its employees.

Contact Bob’s BMW TODAy: Call 301-497-8949 ext. 253 or email joe.southard@bobsbmw.com.

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