October 2018

W H A T ’ S MO NT HLY C O L U M NS

I N S I D E 30

FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................4 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................5 POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE.......................6 ON THE MARK ....................................................7 BACKLASH..........................................................8 INDUSTRY INFOBITES .....................................10 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA..................................12 BIG CITY GETAWAY .........................................14 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN ..............16 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ........................................18 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE ............................20 INSIDE SCOOP .................................................21 UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ...................48

PR O DU C T R E V IE W S AVON TREKRIDER TIRES .................................35 DISCOVERING THE MOTORCYCLE.................41 GIVI SMART CLIP.............................................43 LEATHER AND WATER ....................................44 LUSTRELAB TBC ..............................................47 AEROSTICH OLD RIDER’S ALMANAC ...........47

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors

Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Dr. Seymour O’Life

Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822

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FE AT U RE S GPS FOR DUMMIES ........................................23 42ND RAMAPO 500 ROAD RALLY ...................26 FALL FANCY FOLIAGE FORAYS .....................30 ENDLESS MOUNTAINS BMW RA RALLY ......36 IMOW - IRELAND .............................................42

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2018. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

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OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN

Road Lessons LeaRned Many thoughts that end up in these columns come flittering into my mind while I’m riding.

Problem is that, unless I stop and make some notes, I forget half the things I thought were of note – at least of note for me.

Most of these thoughts by themselves don’t carry enough weight to warrant a few hundred words, enough to fill up this page, but together some of these thoughts can add up to bring me and you through another month of Free Wheelin’.

What I need to CaRRy… I have mentioned this before, but recent events brought it home again.

The Jesse hard bags on my GS have a top part that holds a tightly fitted ‘Goodie Bag’ full of stuff that I may never need on the road, until I or a friend do. At that pont it becomes priceless.

We had just returned from a local rally and had been home for a few hours when I got a text message from a friend who was on the same rally and, most likely, on his way home with other friends.

It simply read SOS SOS.

Hmmm… My heart raced a bit, as no one in their right mind would send up this flare for something benign like a flat tire. It must be something dire.

I made the call back hoping that nothing terrible had happened.

Someone in their group had a flat tire – torn valve stem to be exact.

A small growl emanated from my throat.

To make it worse this same rider had the same problem on our Spring Break Rally and was handed a set of Colby Tire Emergency Replacement Valves. Did he think to maybe carry the second valve with him, as lightning indeed can strike twice?

“Nooooo,” I say, using my best Louise Belcher impersonation.

Luckily another friend, fairly nearby, had a set on this Sunday evening and a few hours later the group was back on the road.

Still…. it made me go back into my Goodie Bag, to see just what I do have.

Hey, if I never use any of it that works for me. But, on the other hand, if you need something and I happen to be nearby, I will be happy to share.

You will replace it later, right?

The Goodie Bag contains a Stop n Go Tire repair kit, zip ties, two H7 lamps, some odd BMW tools for tire removal, the oh-so-precious Colby tire valves, some SENA mics, the staple duct & repair tapes (if you can’t fix it – duct it!), Shoe Goop (trust me on this one), Fix n Zipper replacement, more straps than a dominatrix owns, a very accurate air pressure gauge, an emergency wand flare and some nitrile gloves that can be used with the straps and the dominatrix.

Carry extra Light…

As for carrying the H7 bulbs… I know that at the beginning of each summer my headlight will burn out.

It is a yearly occurrence that seems to have happened for thousands of years. It is like the H7’s version of the Jewish holidays. They never happen on the same day, but we always kinda know when they will be coming around every year.

Best be prepared for them for both.

Also, this bulb will always burn out either #1: as you mount the bike for the beginning of a trip or #2: on a dark and stormy night, 20 miles from your hotel.

It is the universe’s way of frackin’ with you.

Can you not hear the cosmos snickering? seek medical treatment if you need it!

We had an incident on a recent trip where a rider had a low-side in a turn. He was sore, but said he was okay.

The next day he felt worse (no one was surprised at this), but it seemed to be getting worse and not better.

He was put under increasing pressure from others to see someone and finally a local UrgentCare, not trauma center, looked him over (no X-rays) and said he was just banged up and gave him more painkillers (he already had plenty with him).

Over the next few days meds masked the pain and the other symptoms of the multiple broken ribs and lacerated spleen. He survived, but we all learned a lesson.

If there is ANY QUESTION after a crash, go to a hospital, will ya? some stupid thoughts that I think are true and that fill my mind over the miles…

When visiting a friend’s home the bottle of soap in their guest bathroom will always be some smelly crap they bought and hated so much they’ll put it in the second bathroom to let ‘friends’ deal with it.

There will always be a car in front of you, going 10 mph under the limit, when entering a most excellent road. This is science.

If you decide to wear vented and lighter gear on a single overnight rally then you assure hard rains, lightning and dropping temperatures, especially if you made room for a non-used sleeping bag by removing your electric liner. It, too, is indisputable science.

I am sure there are other views and opinions that will flitter past over the next season or two… but for this month these filled up this column nicely.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL

Bumps In the Road Piloting one’s own motorcycle, as most of you reading this magazine know, is such an incredible freeing and exhilarating experience. Shutting off the world for an hour, a day, a week or longer washes the daily trials and tribulations from the mind. Mostly being a solitary experience, the time spent traveling can be used for insight, reflection or simply a brain-cleanse.

On our last adventure, I was set to pillion for nine days behind Brian, who is a most excellent pilot. When our choice of mount was offered, he selected the BMW 1200 GSA over the regular 1200 or Suzuki V-Strom 1000. His thought was that it would be more comfortable for the two of us, has been touted as a solid, well-planted steed and he hadn’t ridden one as yet. Sometime earlier in the year, we had stopped at Hermy’s in Port Clinton, PA to see their new expanded shop and chit chat a bit. Wandering about, I came upon what looked like the back of a bull elephant and I queried over my shoulder to Brian, ‘Is that the bike we’ll be riding in Iceland?’ to which his eyes got just a tad wide and he said, ‘Yup.’ Upon arrival in Iceland and taking possession of said bull elephant, I thought ‘Well, it’s really not as big as it looked in PA.’ Honestly, it was very comfortable, if not just a bit tall for mounting – which was usually not a very pretty sight. I did my best to be as graceful as possible but I fear that I looked like a goony bird landing both mounting and dismounting.

We had watched a number of Edelweiss’ videos from previous Fire and Ice tours just to see what sort of terrain we’d be having. In addition to some – actually many – unpaved portions there would be several water crossings.

Iceland, being a very volcanic land, is subject to earthquakes of varying strengths almost daily. For this reason, even portions of their main road – Route 1 – are not paved. Most that we crossed were well graded and similar to what you’d find in Vermont, Pennsylvania or one of my rally routes.

Page 5 Early on in the trip, traveling from south to north through the center of the island, we encountered the first of our Iceland Construction Zones. I capitalize this phrase because it demanded more attention than any other portion of the trip. As we were the only two-up riders, we would typically take the clean up spot, as we were doing this day. We were tooling along at a pleasant pace when, almost without notice, the asphalt beneath us disappeared.

Not unusual.

Brian had already been up on the pegs, a scenario that I had gotten used to by this point. At the end of the day, the other guys on the trip would ask me if I had seen anything that day besides Brian’s back. I had a very good view of everything to the left and right of me and, many times, I was perfectly content NOT to see what was ahead of us.

The road went from dirt/gravel to bigger gravel to almost boulders – what we in the States call baby heads – and pretty deep at that. I took a firmer grip on the rails and held on, as the bike shifted and bumped but continued in a forward movement. As we are connected by Bluetooth, I could hear Brian’s breath getting a bit more rapid with a couple of ‘Oomphs and Oohs’ thrown in. I tried to make myself as small as possible and, without distracting him, gave him words of encouragement and praise: ‘You’re doing great. We’re almost done. You’re the BEST.’ There were several of these zones scattered throughout the trip and, while they were always a bitch, by the third or fourth one the hyperventilating disappeared and the cursing was minimal (both of those on my part – Brian had already gotten a hold on them).

I realized that my being on the back of the bike made life more difficult for Brian and a couple of times I hopped off so that he could play with the other kids. He always came back with a grin and incredible pictures.

What I realized from this excursion is that I was very happy not to have been on my own bike for this as my off-road skills are nowhere near proficient enough for that sort of terrain. As I’ve said before, I am very happy to have pavement under my tires (yes, I know I’m always putting you folks on anything but, and I really don’t do it on purpose). Iceland was a trip that was so much more than I had expected – its starkness, beauty and challenges – and I thank Brian for taking me along for the ride.

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OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD

no honoR among thIeves “A plague upon it when thieves cannot be true one to another!” ~ Falstaff in Henry IV You hear a lot when a gaggle of touring motorcyclists get to gaggling. I avoid such gatherings like quicksand of course, for in my role of Professional Hermit my Code of Conduct frowns upon such interactions. But sometimes you get stuck, or you simply have to pass by a gathering of riders on your way into the non-franchise donut shop and overhear the topic of discussion.

These dudes, with brand new bikes, brand new leather jackets and brand new expertise, were talking about getting things stolen off their bike, or rather, they were worried about getting things stolen off their bike. This is always an intriguing subject, for as we all know the vast majority of motorcycles on the road are not blessed with solid locking luggage and even when they are, if you’re traveling two-up you have to Beverly Hillbilly some of your gear, especially if you’re camping.

It is a genuine dilemma. While I always think the stories found in every kind of media about all kinds of theft can easily amplify the reality of the situation way beyond the actual risk, the sad fact is it can happen to any of us at just about any time, if the circumstances are right. At the same time, there are ways that you can reduce the likelihood some miscreant will peculate your possessions (isn’t peculate a great word? I stole it out of the thesaurus). So what in the world can you do, really? You travel, you have to stop, you have to go inside at some point for any number of reasons including to see something interesting. Unless you want to disassemble your transport and transport the stealables to some sort of secure location, you have to devise a security strategy. Someone or some thing would be very handy here, if they’re into guarding stuff. Said guardian needs to be on your passenger manifest, so they can be deployed when needed. A German Shepherd would be an excellent choice, but a lot of their excellent guarding properties are

tied in with their size, and they can really upset your center of gravity if they ride shotgun. Shotgun? Do bikes even have a shotgun seating designation? I guess the pillion could be considered the shotgun seat, but that’s typically occupied by the Navigator. A smaller breed might work, and a likely candidate could be an Australian Cattle Dog for they weigh about half what the Alsatian does yet can be every bit as fierce. But there’s a problem: the Aussie lives to move large objects (like cows) from where they are to somewhere else, and a car near the bike at speed screams to be relocated. Perhaps the canine might not be the most practical solution.

What about enlisting someone on site? Tricky. But improvisation is often rewarding, and sometimes just parking near a vehicle advertising Law Enforcement can create a zone of safety, at least for a bit. Valet parkers or often bracing young pre-miscreants who will not only let you park close, but keep an eye on your rig knowing that that nice old fellah will be generous at tip time. You know, this reminds me I once enlisted the services of a parking attendant without ever actually doing it. I was riding locally when I lived in LA, and stopped at my favorite Mexican food establishment (a place that won the dubious award of “Best Restaurant to have an Affair in” because it was so dark). I parked right up by the door in an out-of-the-way nook I knew about, and all I had with me was my helmet, which I secured to the bike via the helmet lock. After loading up on exquisite chicken enchiladas, I returned to the mount only to be accosted by the parking attendant, who seemed to want compensation. “What for?” asks I. “I watch your hat for you,” he explained. I guess he shooed away a roving gang of thugs, who had designs on my helmet. Or not. Did I compensate this guy? I don’t remember. But had I been on the road with a loaded bike I surely would have.

Other strategies? This is actually a pretty tough problem at certain places.

But simple solutions are often at hand, such as just parking in a well-lit spot (sunlight is good) and asking for a window table that will give you surveillance. Biohazard stickers can come in handy, and work a treat if deployed generously. I used to have a roll of “Police Line, Do Not Cross” ribbon I stole from the prop department on a movie (actually I asked for it; I’d never steal from those guys) but I used it up. But man, it did keep people away from the bike. Or, at least I think it did, which is half the battle after all. As with all things, the best weapon you possess is just common sense, and a bit Continued on next page

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

ON THE MARK MARK ByERS

LICense to LeaRn There’s a gap – a huge one – in the motorcycle rider-training continuum. I realized it when I rode with my protégé after she graduated from the MSF Basic Rider Course. It was a topic of discussion at the Backroads Summer Squeeze, when Ken Condon of Riding in the Zone spoke. The MSF course teaches people to ride in a parking lot and most more advanced schools, like Condon’s Riding in the Zone and Pridmore’s CLASS, require a rider to have a fair amount of on-road experience before they will train them. The problem is that there isn’t anything to bridge that critical gap between the parking lot and the more advanced schools. We take riders who have done slow-speed cone weaves and figure eights on an antiseptic, protected range and turn them loose in the real world.

And, the “real world” is a real problem. A new rider, who may be conservative with speed, is cast into a place where they are tailgated by a two-ton SUV piloted by a harried soccer parent, texting as they hasten to deliver their progeny to the next activity. New riders enter a world where congestion dictates that they make quick starts into the flow of traffic without stalling and dropping the motorcycle. There is very little, if any, kindness and patience out there for a rider who is less than assertive or confident. Even if a new rider tries to keep to less-traveled roads, eventually they will have to contend with any number of hazards and situations for which they are ill prepared by standardized drills on a closed range.

I still recommend to every prospective rider who asks that they take the MSF course as an entry point to their license. The classes are a structured way to take someone from zero experience to a level where they can at least operate the controls of the motorcycle; however, those courses are far from what one really needs to succeed on today’s congested, high-speed roadways. It’s hard, because the regulatory bodies try to strike a balance between demand for training services and the limited supply. At one time, Maryland had a waiting list for the courses offered at the local community colleges. I have a notion that the course has been tailored for throughput, perhaps not for the better, but there are many wonderful people out there doing courses for long hours at low pay, trying to provide a good entry to motorcycling. There’s a limit to what they can do.

So, what can be done to fill that chasm between “Congratulations, you have a license!” and “Welcome to advanced training?” Not everyone has the advantage of an experienced professional motorcyclist as a mentor.

Husbands tend to be lousy mentors for riding spouses.

Some mentors may actually foster bad behaviors and postCaRds fRom the hedge From previous page of imagination. Every parking lot, campsite, etc. is different and requires its own unique solution. Thieves may always be among us, but you can do all kinds of things to make their mischief more challenging. Another good idea is even though it can be a pain, don’t leave your 27” iMac zip-tied to your handlebars or that solid gold GoPro strapped to the sissy bar. Make your ride as boring and valueless in appearance as possible, at least when traveling anywhere you are a bit spooked about.

I’m not suggested doing what my old friend Sarah in NYC did, and cover her knew scooter with duct tape so it looked like it had all kinds of body damage and was hanging on by a thread. But you get the idea. Use that bit of invention in all of us, and you’ll likely be fine.

Falstaff learned you can’t trust a thief even if you are one yourself, but you sure as Shakespeare can outsmart them.

Page 7 negative training. Some new riders abandon riding after they have an incident or are scared senseless by a close call. The saddest case is when a newlyminted rider gets a case of “whiskey throttle” or “target fixation” and ends up in the hospital or morgue. There is nothing like experience, but the school of hard knocks has a jerk for a professor.

There is no substitute for riding, but how and where to ride to gain the experience to transition to more advanced training is critical to the success of a new rider. Whom to ask for help is just as important, lest the new riders be filled with false lore or bad advice. Riding, especially at the neophyte level, is also a perishable skill. Like pilots, who need “proficiency flights,” riders need to have recent experience. The worst case would be someone who passes the test in the fall, then has to put the bike away until spring. I would treat that situation like a rider with no experience at all.

As fellow motorcyclists interested in the success of our comrades, I think we need to go out of our way to invite neophytes on rides with us, alone or in VERY small groups. We need to keep our speeds to levels at which a new rider is comfortable, but not so low that we make hazards of ourselves. We need to choose roads that are less congested and stop frequently to allow our protégés to both rest and ask questions. And, like flight instructors tell their students who just passed their tests, we need to tell them that their motorcycle license is a license to learn.

Become a better rider - work on your skills

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BACKLASH

OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

Letters to the Editor

Bikes from the Past and Present Hi guys, Have you ever heard of or seen a Janus bike?

I drove out to Indiana and picked mine up 2 months ago. What a hoot! Talk about a true backroads cruiser. This is not a highway bike. I do own much bigger road bikes. I’ve been riding for 50+ years.

I found a 4-page story in Motorcycle Classics July/Aug. 2018 issue. Sorry, I read other magazines.

Google ‘em or take a 12-hour ride to Indiana.

Take care, george Brian, I liked your September Free Wheelin’ piece. I think we must be close in

age, I remember all the same shows as a kid except “On Any Sunday” kind of changed my life.

My friend Ken has a replica of the Bronson bike. He had this built for him by the stuntmen of the film, but it’s a little different than the show bike. The bike & movie struck a nerve in him back then too. He still has two bikes in California and plans to ride them again across Big Sur like in the movie.

The pic is the bike at my house; I installed new tires, Pirelli Sport Demons.

I would not let him ride the bike with the original early 70’s tires. The bike handles VERY well, shifts flawlessly and has tons of power. I rode this bike on small tight crowned roads and 90 on the highway still works well. I think when the stunt guys built this they used the best aftermarket parts at the time.

If you ever want to see it or ride it let me know. gary Renna Gary, We would love to take you up on that - go ride wherever the road takes us.

Brian, The first part of your Free Wheelin’ column in the August issue struck a familiar chord. Not long ago I offered for sale a sports car I had for a number of years. I used a web auction site for Collector Cars a friend recommended. It seems it was also a forum where other people could make comments or ask questions about the car. It was a good site and I got a good price but I was surprised by all the criticisms I received. I should have gotten a better detailing job, not enough or poor quality photos, I had hand written maintenance records rather than a printed or computer generated report, (“What century does this guy live in?”) and my favorite: my choice of the printer font I used for the listing. I do believe it’s the same one you use for your emails. The Lesson? Consider the source. It’s just people using the time worn method of criticizing others to make them feel better about themselves. Forget it; use your own judgement; you’ve done all right so far. Personally, I like Backroads just the way it is.

John petrocelli Hey Backroads, How did you happen to come across the Jacobson Effect? I never met Bill Heald and I’m not big on political articles in specialty pubs like Backroads but he is right about one thing; why are motorcycles the first product to rear its head when you hear about tariffs? mikey B

Ride to the End of the World Hey Brian & Shira, I saw the Forksville General Store in the weekly Backroads Report. I wanted to suggest that if you haven’t already, do a trip with nearby World’s End State Park as a base for day rides in the Endless Mountains.

Very nice park with a bunch of very nice “primitive” cabins (Electricity, stove, woodstove for heat, no indoor

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

Mail: BACKROADS PO Box 620 Augusta NJ 07822

Email: editor@backroadsusa.com Fax: (973) 948-0823

Page 9

Got something to say? We’d love to hear it.

Letters may be edited, never censored, to fit.

plumbing but bathrooms are nearby) for those who don’t tent camp. My high school friends and I have been going there for a midwinter weekend reunion for over 30 years.

Safe Travels, adam Zuckerman • hamlin Cycles Guys, I don’t think I’ve said this recently or often enough. I REALLY like your magazine. It’s got both your personalities all over it.

That, by the way, is a good thing.

Jan

The Backroads Report Thanks! This weekly missive is attractive, entertaining and informative.

Jack neu Hi guys...

I love your little monthly ‘teasers’ ... aka The Backroads Report!

Bill Kniege Brian, I have been meaning to drop you a note to let you know that I am enjoying your weekly Backroads Report.

In the beginning, I wasn’t sure if I thought it was “necessary”. But, I recognize that I know absolutely zero about the publishing business. After receiving the Saturday emails for a while now, I admit that I enjoy them a lot.

They don’t replace the magazine, they simply supplement it - and they do that very well!

On a different note, I sent Gigi (Pridmore – CLASS) a bouquet when she published the memories of VIR on Reg’s blog. I thought that it was exceptionally well done and I’m very happy to see that you are reposting it. Good move!

Stay safe! Hugs to Shira. Look forward to seeing you folks in October.

Larry Cain

GPS Woes Backroads, Have you had any experience with your GPS screen going blank? Had to send the zumo back for a refurbished unit, $95.00 plus UPS to get the bad one to Garmin.

On the images from Americade: Brian ‘light’ must not consume at Shira’s ice cream rides. We had to look twice to make sure it was you. I expect the deer head to surface somewhere on Americade 2019 website. You get ten points for originality. tom deming

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Page 10

OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

IN DU STRY INFOBITES ZERO-POWERED PROTOTYPE 2018 E-POWERED CAMPAGNA E-REX Back in April of 2018, Canadian autocycle purveyor Campagna Motors announced it would be releasing a fully-electric version of its long-running T-Rex model. Instead of developing its own electric powertrain, Campagna partnered up with Zero Motorcycles, which agreed to provide the motors, batteries, and controllers which Campagna says have been “seamlessly integrated into the T-REX”.

At the heart of the “E-Rex” prototype are a pair of air-cooled electric motors making a claimed 140hp and 232ft-lbs of torque. Powering the dual motors is a 26 kWh battery pack that’s said to be good for a 185 range, and thanks to Zero’s quick charger, the E-Rex can supposedly be fully charged in as little as two hours.

Their website can be found at campagnamotors.com

SAUDI WOMEN KICKSTART HOG CHAPTER In a bit more than a month since women in Saudi Arabia won the historic right to drive, a group of them is headed out on the road on not four wheels, but two.

“We have been waiting a lifetime for this,” said Aliya, an enthusiastic 23-year-old student from Jeddah who is set on motorcycling. “Always watching my brothers ride. Now they’re teaching me.”

Five young women swathed in their mandatory black abayas meander excitedly through the Harley-Davidson

News from the Inside store in the country’s capital of Riyadh, examining the line of classic motorcycles and skimpy Harley branded t-shirts – a concept that would have been unthinkable less than a year ago.

It’s a welcome sight for the male staff at the prominent motorcycle store, who say they can’t wait to see women rolling through the Riyadh streets.

HARLEY-DAVIDSON REFUTES “MISINFORMATION” ABOUT OFFSHORE PRODUCTION

Harley-Davidson Inc. Chief Executive Officer Matt Levatich pushed back against what he called “misinformation” surrounding the Motor Company’s announced plans to move some production overseas.

The iconic American motorcycle maker has been the subject of angry tweets from President Donald Trump since announcing in June it would move some production abroad to sidestep tariffs the European Union slapped on its bikes in retaliation to Trump’s tariffs on imported steel and aluminum.

According to Bloomberg business news, “the spat heated up recently when President Trump said he would support a boycott of the company if it moved production overseas.” Trump’s pronouncement that “A Harley-Davidson should never be built in another country-never!” came a day after he welcomed nearly 200 ‘Bikers For Trump’ supporters to his golf course in Bedminster, NJ, and a New York Times article cited some Harley-Davidson owners criticizing the company at the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally saying this was their last Harley.

Levatich called the uproar surrounding the company’s earlier announcement that it would move some of its production overseas “misinformation”. He reminded employees and dealers that the purpose of this move is to keep their products competitive in their second biggest market. Harley doesn’t sell motorcycles in the U.S. that are built overseas, and that won’t change, Levatich said.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

Page 11

JOURNEY TO THE WORLD’S MOST MYSTERIOUS PLACES

2018 AMA HALL OF FAME INDUCTION

Created by the same team behind Atlas Obscura, the #1 New York Times bestseller that has over 600,000 copies in print in its first year, The Atlas Obscura Explorer’s Guide for the World’s Most Adventuruous Kid is a thrillingly imaginative expedition to 100 weird-but-true places on earth. And just as compelling is the way the book is structured— hopscotching from country to country not by location but by type of attraction. For example, visit the site of the Tunguska event in Siberia, where a meteor slammed into the earth in 1908—and then skip over to the Yucatan, ground zero for the ancient meteor crash that caused the mass extinction of dinosaurs.

Then, while in Mexico, tour the fantastical Naica caves, home to crystals ten times larger than the average person—then, turn the page to Vietnam to a cave so vast you could fly a 747 through it. Illustrated in gorgeous and appropriately evocative full-color art, this book is a passport to a world of hidden possibilities. www.atlasobscura.com/unique-gifts/atlas-obscura-kids-book

The 2018 AMA Motorcycle Hall of Fame Induction Ceremony will officially induct four-time AMA National Enduro Champion Terry Cunningham, stunt rider Gary Davis, flat track and road racing tuner Skip Eaken, MotoGP World Champion Nicky Hayden, flat track racer Clifford “Corky” Keener, and pioneering motorcyclist Mary McGee. The induction ceremony is part of the 2018 AMA Legends & Champions Weekend, Dec. 7-9. The AMA Legends & Champions Weekend also includes the 2018 AMA Championship Banquet at the Hilton Columbus/Polaris on Dec. 8, and an open house and formal installment of Hall of Fame honors at the AMA Motorcycle Hall of Fame in Pickerington, Ohio, on Dec. 9.

BMW MOTORCYCLE OWNERS OF AMERICA LAUNCHES MOTORCYCLE AWARENESS CAMPAIGN Over 88,000 motorcyclists sustained crash related injuries in 2017. Sadly, 5,286 people died on America’s highways because of these accidents. Five-thousandtwo-hundred-eighty-six. This number is completely unconscionable to BMW MOA Foundation Vice President, Vance Harrelson.

Harrelson is the driving force behind the BMW MOA Foundation’s new safety initiative to raise awareness about motorcycle/vehicle collisions and the need to share the road. With a modest donation of $2,542, Harrelson asked the BMW MOA Foundation to do its part to keep BMW motorcyclists safe on America’s highways. “Motorcycle awareness seems obvious, yet motorcycle fatalities continue to rise,” says Harrelson.

“Training and rider education are good places to start, but without the help of everyone, we can’t eliminate the problem.”

Harrelson’s background in the transportation industry prior to riding a motorcycle taught him that everyone must ride and drive safe. Harrelson says “Motorcycle accidents aren’t just a problem for the rider. Accidents can have a devastating impact on everyone involved, especially if it results in a fatality.”

The MOA Foundation responded by developing the “Built for All of Us” campaign which launched at the BMW MOA National Rally in Des Moines. The objective is simple – deploy enough awareness resources where BMW MOA members and other motorcyclists gather to make a difference. Whether it is yard signs, billboards or press coverage in the local markets, resources provided by the MOA Foundation remind motorists that America’s highways are built for all of us and keep motorcyclists out of the statistics column.

The MOA Foundation is making these resources available beyond the National Rally. Local clubs and safety supporters can request assistance from the Foundation to build their own awareness campaign in areas where they ride and live. Riders interested in building an awareness initiative in their community can visit bmwmoa.org/builtforall.

You can support Vance’s effort by donating to the Foundation’s annual fundraising campaign. All donations will be dedicated to the Built for All of Us campaign and donors have a chance to win a 1999 BMW R1100R. Visit bmwmoaf.org for details.

Page 12

OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERI OU S AMERIC A the dog ChapeL 143 PARKS RD, ST JOHNSBURY, VT 05819 www.dogmt.com • 800-449-2580 How many times have we seen a great image of Vermont that has a church or chapel as the focal point of the image? Plenty, as the state has a plethora of picturesque houses of worship.

Well this month, on a run along the backroads of Mysterious America, I will tell you about a Vermont chapel that is a bit different from all the rest. In fact, you could say this place has been thrown to the dogs!

Up a well-groomed gravel road on a mountainside in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont, right outside the town of St. Johnsbury, you will find The Dog Chapel.

That’s right …The Dog Chapel.

Stick with me, as odd as it sounds, there is a great story to go with it.

Chapels are historically small and usually added onto an institution or private home, and the Dog Chapel, although small, seems grand in nature. But who doesn’t love dogs?

The chapel is the dream and creation of artist Stephen Huneck, but all this almost did not happen as in 1994, Stephen suffered from Adult Res-

piratory Distress Syndrome after falling down a flight of stairs, and it left him in a coma for two months.

The doctors were not hopeful, but with the help of his wife, Gwen, Stephen made a full recovery. He had to relearn everything, from how to walk to how to sign his own name.

What happened then to Huneck and how The Dog Chapel came about might be best told by Huneck himself…

“Fifteen years ago I became gravely ill. I was in a coma for two months. The doctors had little hope for my recovery, but recover I did. I had to learn to walk, write, and carve all over again. You’ve heard the expression, ‘What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger.’ My illness did make me stronger, and it also made me more sensitive, and more appreciative of life. ...”

After this near-death experience, Stephen had a vision to build a Dog Chapel, “a place where people can go and celebrate the spiritual bond they have with their dogs.” He said, “It is the largest artwork of my life and my most personal.”

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

“During the time following my recovery, I thought a lot about life and death. I pondered the rituals we perform when a person dies, such as throwing a handful of dirt on the lowered casket to symbolize that the person has passed on, which helps bring closure for the living. Since dogs are family members, too, I thought it would be wonderful if we could create a ritual space to help achieve closure and lessen the pain when we lose a beloved dog.”

A series of events came about – one after another – that allowed Stephen not only to heal his body, but his soul as what was once a dream slowly became reality.

The Dog Chapel is well worth the ride up the gravel road and the diminutive chapel could be a far larger church, if not for the scale of things.

“Dogs bring us closer to nature, and they help us live in the moment and feel unconditionally loved.

They give us so much and ask for so little in return.”

Page 13 Since all this has happened and the creation of the Dog Chapel Stephen has written ten books inspired by his black Lab Sally, including ‘The Dog Chapel’ and ‘Even Bad Dogs Go to Heaven - More from the Dog Chapel.’

They are all illustrated with his vibrant woodcut prints. Truly, Stephen carved out a niche in the art world as a sculptor with a playful twist.

As you approach the Dog Chapel the sign reads… “Welcome All Creeds All Breeds No Dogmas Allowed” The bright white chapel is a place that beckons and mixes emotions. At first glance it makes you smile, laugh and brings out the best of us. But, inside looking at the “Remembrance Wall” and the notes and images left behind by those grieving or celebrating the time shared with furry friends that have moved on can bring a quiet melancholy.

The pews have dogs on both ends and the stained glass windows, one of the things that helped start the chapel, are beautiful in the bright sunlight.

Many bring their dogs to visit – it is almost a Mecca of sorts for some and several times a year, the Stephen Huneck Gallery on Dog Mountain hosts unforgettable Dog Parties. Hundreds of people with hundreds of dogs attend these festivities.

Next door there is a shop selling Huneck’s art and his books, among other things. Of course there is a shop…but, it’s all good and all fun…for dog’s sake!

The Dog Chapel is a wonderful and odd place to visit – even if you are on a motorcycle and puppyless… although I think our friend Tinkerbell would have loved this place. Enjoy it – I did. O’Life out!

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OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

Hanover Powersports Presents

BIG CITY GETAWAY pa BaConfest CENTRE SQUARE, EASTON PA • PABACONFEST.COM Bacon. That magical, wonderful and delicious swiney creation that shows us there is a God – and he loves bacon (except during the Jewish High Holy Days).

This savory and salty meat has been with us since 1500 B.C. when the Chinese were curing pork bellies with salt, creating an early form of bacon, although pigs were domesticated in China in 4900 B.C. and were also being raised in Europe by 1500 B.C. modern times & the pa Baconfest Located in historic Easton PA, the PA BaconFest has grown into one of the region’s most popular events. With 150+ vendors, 12+ musical acts, and several stages, the two-day festival attracts more than 80,000 attendees.

80,002, with Backroads heading down on a moist Sunday afternoon to see what the squealing was all about.

We two-upped on this ride as Shira had signed on for a Cheek to Cheek Pork and Bourbon Tasting and, as she would be indulging, I would be designated pilot.

Yes, dear, I’ll ride you down and back.

In 2014 PA BaconFest was named one of the Top 300 Festivals in the world by FEST300.com, was voted Best Culinary Event in Lehigh Valley Style magazine’s Best of the Lehigh Valley contest and received a Townie Award for best special event in the state by Pennsylvania Downtown Center.

It is a huge event that spreads out from and around the Centre Square of Easton. The PA BaconFest grew out of the Easton Farmers’ Market, America’s oldest continuous open-air market that was started way back in 1752.

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind The PA BaconFest is held rain or shine.

BaCon faCto… The word ‘bacon’ may have come from various sources, particularly from the French word ‘bako’. It was only in the 17th century that ‘bacon’ was used to refer exclusively to the salted and smoked belly that we know today as bacon.

We had to search around a bit for a doable parking spot, but once there and all our gear locked up, we strolled into the bacony street party that went on for many blocks.

It seemed that at the end of each arm of the BaconFest you would find a

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018 stage with a band or duo belting out popular tunes. One stage was turned over to the School of Rock – which always is fun when you see such young kids covering classic rock & roll!

We were a little overwhelmed with the amount of vendors selling anything and everything with bacon.

Chocolates, ice cream, bacon on a stick, bacon bloody Marys, bacon chocolate caramel apples, bacon ale and each table smelled soooo good.

Is there nothing that bacon cannot make better?

One item that stood out was the Bacon Me Crazy sandwich – bacon-wrapped sausage topped with bacon mac & cheese. I was surprised there were not more street-side defibrillators handy, but there was a good police and EMT presence so we all felt pretty safe.

BaCon faCto… Native Americans reportedly became very fond of the taste of pork, resulting in some of the worst attacks on the deSoto expedition. By the time of deSoto’s death three years later, his pig herd had grown to 700 head, not including the ones his troops had consumed, those that ran away and became wild pigs (and the ancestors of today’s feral pigs or razorbacks), and those given to the Native Americans to keep the peace. The pork industry in America had begun.

Page 15 Shira’s pairing of bourbons and pork seemed to go swimmingly and I made up for that with a wide variety of bacony goodness.

With some time to kill we tried our best to cover the entire festival, which is spread out over a wide number of Easton’s streets.

BaCon faCto… The popular phrase “bring home the bacon” can be traced to the 12th century, in the English town of Dunmow.

The church in the town promised to reward a side of bacon to any married man who swore before God and the congregation that he would not quarrel with his wife for a year and a day. The husband who could bring home the bacon was highly esteemed by his community.

One thing we did reaffirm is that almost everyone loves bacon. It is hard not to.

Today’s pig is lean and yields about 15 pounds of bacon per hog. Think about this: last year 1.7 billion pounds of bacon were used in U.S. food service; that’s more than 113 million pigs! Hog production and the making of bacon sure has come a long way.

The 2018 PA BaconFest will be held the weekend of November 3-4 from 10am-6pm each day with a suggested donation of $2 towards the Easton Farmers’ Market. Check the website for new information: paBaconfest.com It is well worth a ride, especially if the weather is still motorcycle-friendly.

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OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN

tasty places to take your bike

KImChI smoKe BaRBeque 301 CENTER AVE., WESTWOOD, NJ 07675 201-497-6333 • www.kimchismoke.com During the off-season, which did not seem to want to leave this year, we spend a good bit of time in deep research.

Mysteries at the Museum, the Travel Channel and, because we are somewhat food-oriented here at Backroads Central, The Food Network.

Back in the spring we watched an episode of Beat Bobby Flay titled “Sour with the Sweet.” The premise on this show is a talented cook will pick a dish with which to challenge the famed New York Chef and then the two completed dishes are judged by an expert panel who will decide which dish is the better.

Bobby rarely loses – but it is his show.

Still, we think our pesto could give him a good run for his money.

Usually the show has chefs coming in and talking smack at Bobby – all in good fun - but one evening there was a chef and owner of a northern New Jersey Korean Barbecue who came off far more humble and refreshing then any of the others– Robert Cho. According to Cho, “I got into barbecue by watching Throwdown with Bobby Flay and just being on the show with an opportunity to face Bobby Flay was a real blessing. My parents immigrated to the States to give me a better opportunity. This is that

opportunity. Win, lose, or draw, I know my father would be proud of me.”

So Robert and Bobby went head to head to outdo each other with a Monte Christo Sandwich - Chos’ wild creation built with egg, Taylor ham, fried chicken and more. Bobby’s was a bit more traditional.

Although Robert did lose to Flay he really won with us; and it was not much later that we took a ride over to Westwood, New Jersey and Cho’s restaurant - Kimchi Smoke.

Although we like having our GAADRs along hidden roads and prefer rural locations, the wonderful mix of Korean and Texas Barbeque easily justifies the ride we put together to get to the heart of North Jersey suburbia.

Kimchi is part of a Westwood strip mall, but offers a good deal of parking (bring quarters) and is big enough to handle a decent sized riding group on off hours.

We took a seat with Shira’s sister Rowena and brother-in-law Richie and glanced at the menu which took a bit of time, as few of the choices are run of the mill and many have descriptive adjectives like “awesome” “ridiculously good” and “legendary.”

Choosing got to be a task.

Kimchi is known for its gastronomic mash-ups that run from interesting to truly different, in a uniquely good way.

Kimchi’s Reuben Lee is a Texas-Korea re-creation of the classic New York

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018 Reuben sandwich, but Cho uses his superb smoked brisket instead of corned beef.

Where a nice Jewish deli might give you a side of jarred coleslaw, here in Westwood you can a helping of Korean smoked kimchi. Hello taste buds!

Many of his dishes come with Fatboy BCS which stands for bourbon chipotle sauce.

We tried to mix up our ordering to get a good cross-section of Cho’s offerings and started with smoked pork empanadas and NYC XXX bao (a steamed bread roll with pork belly). The bao was great but the empanadas were outstanding!

We ordered a couple of Rice bowls – one with the brisket and the other with bulgogi (Korean grilled rib eye) – both with their kimchi and drizzled with BCS. The other side of the table went for chicken, with Kimchi’s famous Koreanstyle bbq chicken (sourced from local Goffle Farms). These come hickory smoked and then lightly fried and topped with sweet gochu glaze, sesame seeds and scallions.

Richie ordered up Kimchi’s fried chicken, which was off the charts with crispiness, texture and flavor along with Cholander Mac and Cheese. This three cheese blend is topped with pulled pork, Fatboy BCS, smoked kimchi and then more cheese for the heck of it.

The onion rings had a sizzling bite to

Page 17 them and were perfect.

While there we saw other dishes passing by – ribs, their Austin Cho sandwich and their “awesome” Korean redneck tacos.

On the menu there was the something very different and the menu aptly calls it “100% ridiculousness.” Truly one of the oddest combos we have ever seen - The Chonut 2.1. We did not go here - this time.

Imagine Mr. Rod Serling here…

“Picture, if you will… a glazed doughnut, sometimes with sprinkles. Inside is piled smoked brisket, bacon, cheddar, smoked kimchi, Fatboy BCS and scallions. Welcome to the Chonut Zone!”

Okay then - a return trip is called for on this one. Or maybe one of our kind readers can report back and let us know how differently wonderful the Chonut is? We wait for your report!

While we were there Robert came out to say hello, chat for a bit and he was as friendly and smiling as he came across on Beat Bobby Flay. Cho has a great thing going here in Westwood and Kimchi Smoke Barbeque is well worth a stop on the Great All American Diner Run! With all the interesting combinations and mash-up here at Kimchi we thought we’d give you some of the same with the route this month, found on page 46.

Enjoy both the roads and the barbecue!

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OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

WE’RE OUTTA HER E KeaRsaRge Inn 42 SEAVEY SREET, NORTH CONWAY, NH 03860 603-356-8700 • www.kearsargeinn.com The Kancamagus Highway is some 30 miles of wonder cutting through the White Mountain National Forest. It is often misspelled, and mispronounced as ‘Kank’ a ‘man’gus.

It was named after the last sagamore, or chief, of the Pennacooks, who dominated a confederation of Indian tribes living in New Hampshire in the 17th century. By the time the British got here the tribe was a shell of its former self and the man in charge of the British settlements, Major Richard Waldron, invited the Pennacooks to a feast. Waldron then seized a number of the tribe and sent them to Boston in chains. The rest fled their valley and moved north to Quebec to seek protection from the French. Four years later Kancamagus returned at the head of a raiding party that fell upon Dover and chopped the treacherous Waldron to pieces at his own dinner table.

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads Karma, baby!

In 1957, after debating whether or not Kancamagus was wrong to defend his people, the New Hampshire legislature voted to name the road after this last sagamore. As Representative Robert Monahan stated, “I’ll admit that the name may be a bit difficult,” he added, “but it’s easier to spell than Winnipesaukee and easier to pronounce than Chocorua.”

How about we just call it “The Kanc?”

On its eastern side, just north a bit, you will find the busy town of North Conway - once home to Whitehorse Press (how we miss them) and the Conway Scenic Railroad.

Right across from the station you will find Seavey Street and in the middle of that our highly recommended stop for this month’s We’re Outta Here! – The Kearsarge Inn. They like to call themselves “The Best Little Hotel Hidden in the Heart of North Conway Village” and with good reason.

When we arrived we met with manager John LaJoie, who was happy to give us a quick tour of the inn. In addition to the main inn, they have added a number of very nice rooms around the property.

We found that during the early 1900s there were over 75 grand hotels and country inns

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

that framed the rugged beauty of the White Mountains.

Today, only the Mount Washington Hotel, the Balsams, the Mountain View Grand, Eastern Slope Inn and the Wentworth have withstood the test of time.

In keeping with the legacy and elegance of these “Great Ladies” the owners of the contemporary Kearsarge Inn began a meticulous restoration in 2002 of a late 1800’s village residence into North Conway’s first boutique hotel.

Today the Kearsage has a wide variety of rooms – all nicely appointed and comfortable.

You can choose from the Select, Deluxe, Luxury, Penthouse or their Kearsarge Suite – located next door.

Rooms run from $69 to $250 depending on season and the rooms you choose.

John brought us around and showed us all the different rooms and then ours for the night, which was a deluxe room. A large, spacious and comfortable place on the second floor of one of the newer buildings.

We grabbed a local cup of brew and then took a seat on the porch along the Kearsarge, taking in the relaxed atmosphere.

Still, it is located right in the middle of North Conway and we’d recommend getting in early and taking a walk around town. There are a number of interesting shops – one being The Penguin which, according to my friend Nate, has the “Best Gift Ideas” on the planet. We did pick up a bunch of odd and cool stuff here.

There are plenty of restaurants in town, as well as the Kearsarge’s own Deacon Street right next door. There is even an opportunity to take a dinner train ride on the

Page 19 Conway Scenic Railroad if you like. This is an excellent way to see the surrounding mountains and countryside from a different perspective than behind the handlebars.

Come morning we heartily recommend The Stairway Café, which is right around the corner – a very hip place, super food and great music. But, get there early as it gets crowded as the people arise from the previous night revelries.

If the idea of the middle of town puts you off in any way the Kearsarge has a sister inn up the road a piece in Jackson called the Wildcat Inn & Tavern, where they have their own pub and restaurant and comfortable rooms upstairs as well – but offer the same hospitality that we found with the Kearsarge Inn. Both places work well for traveling riders.

This region is perfect most of the riding season, but glorious in the Autumn – but book way in advance for this time of the year. Enjoy!

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OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

The Law Office of Paul G. Gargiulo Presents

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival ALWAYS BE PREPARED words: Jeffrey Kurtzman More than once in the past year I have found myself standing roadside while one of our riding group is lying in said roadway having had a disagreement with gravity or one of God’s most evil creatures…..namely a deer. Absent the risk of physical injury that can occur while riding, I have also noticed that my toiletry kit has grown over the years from carrying basics such as shampoo and toothpaste, to stocking a variety of pills and remedies that are the painfully obvious harbingers of a few lurking chronic medical gremlins.

With these happy thoughts in mind I took account of my CPR/First Aid skills and realized that the last time I had any formal training was probably over 20 years ago. While the physiology of the human body hasn’t mutated much in that period of time, advancements in medical treatments and changes in protocol have occurred.

I happened to mention all this to a friend who commented that his daughter is an accomplished EMT-B and an instructor in a variety of disciplines to include Trauma Bleeding Control and First Aid. The texting began and soon EMT Claire Drotman advised me that she had a course curriculum prepared that was geared towards the type of situations and injuries motorcyclists might encounter in the field.

The inaugural Motorcycle First Aid & Safety Course was held on August 4th with Claire lugging in four CPR mannequins. I called mine Fred and he was a good kisser. Kudos to Lisa and Steve Mutchler and Jeff Caruana for driving in a deluge all the way from New Jersey to Long Island to attend the class. Jon Bressner had a lesser ride in the downpour and the dog and I had the shortest commute; we only had to walk into our living room where the course was taught that Saturday morning.

Claire, a very composed, dedicated first responder, instructed in a clear concise manner. She readily answered questions and told real world anecdotes to augment the training she provided.

Areas covered included CPR, hands only CPR, bleeding control, accident scene safety, blunt trauma injuries to the eyes and teeth, neck and back injury management, and dealing with broken or sprained extremities via splinting. There are indeed new protocols in place since I first learned CPR. I was also interested to hear more about the proper application and use of a tourniquet, which Claire covered during the course. In addition, we were given information about the types of equipment we might want to carry on the bike (with an eye on packing size) that could be of assistance in an emergency.

This beginning course gives one a good overview of several disciplines

and a fair amount of ground has to be covered in a matter of hours. This will not turn you into Gregory House overnight. Without practice and repetition, the confidence to handle a situation probably won’t be well developed and skills will soon get rusty once more. That being said, I am not actively craving real world experience and I don’t want to watch a certain rider shred another Yamaha and then cradle his arm because his clavicle on one side has now become two clavicles. I prefer to practice these first aid skills in the living room and hope they are not needed in the field but I would like to be as prepared as possible if they are called into play. Considering the nature of the rural roads we often ride on, and the fact that some of us are carrying more prescription pills then the local CVS, we have to acknowledge that accidents and medical emergencies do take place and help can be more than just a few minutes away. Knowing how to manage an injury or a medical emergency, until that help arrives, could make a huge difference in the outcome. The more of us who know how to deal with these unplanned events the safer we all are – except the deer. They have to learn how to cross at those “Deer Crossing” signs and not at random spots in the road or suffer decimation.

Plans are underway for another class – likely to be held in New Jersey this fall/winter. Watch these pages and the website for further information.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

Page 21

fox meadoWs CReameRy 2475 WEST MAIN ST, EPHRATA, PA 17522 717-721-6455 • FoxMeadowsCreamery.com OPEN EVERY DAY @ 11AM • LUNCH MONDAYS-SATURDAYS 11AM-2PM We were headed out for our Spring Break in the middle of May. It was not a particularly warm day; as a matter of fact the weather that whole trip was working against us as far as riding a motorcycle. We had started out with a group of 6, including Brian and me, but by the time we were getting close to our destination, the other 4 took the quicker route to the dry hotel, while Brian and I, under instructions from Dr. O’Life, were to make a pit stop at the National Clock and Watch Museum. We were in familiar territory and, just as we were crossing PA Route 322, Brian came over the Sena and said, ‘Hey, look, there’s a creamery on our left. Wanna stop?’ Under any other circumstances, I would have already made the turn into the drive, but I had already put my mind onto the finish line of the Cork Hotel. He reasoned with my better ice cream judgment, and here we are, at Fox Meadows Creamery in beautiful Lancaster County, PA. Fox Meadows Farm has a 50+ year history of dairy farming, animal husbandry and milk production. As the diagram on their website shows, the journey from cow to cone is relatively short and straight: the crops are harvested in summer and fall and stored in the silos to keep the cows well-fed all winter. The Fox cows are a happy lot, enjoying their pastures for grazing, clean stalls and milking twice daily. Once the milk is collected, it’s hauled to the creamery where the magic happens.

The creamery and country story has only been around for the past 4 years. It’s a nice, open big, bright building with plenty of seating should you come for lunch or just to satisfy your sweet tooth. We parked the bikes and sauntered inside, impressed with the country décor. The front of the shop houses seating, with fireplace for those cooler days, as well as the ice cream

counter. In the back you’ll find the country store with all kinds of edible and decorative goodies. Here you’ll also find the viewing window into the creamery itself where, at certain times, you can watch them make their very delicious ice cream.

Being as we were just making a quick stop, I tried to breeze through the 24-flavor offerings to make my decision. It is always my thought that, given an exotic flavor, I should try that before opting for the basic chocolate/vanilla/strawberry. While I love a good salted caramel (which they had along with some pretzel thrown in), my interest was piqued by the purple ube + coconut cream. I asked the young woman behind the counter exactly what purple ube was and was told it’s a purple yam. Well, hell’s bells, how could I pass that by, especially if it’s mixed with coconut. I did a sample tasting and thought better of a whole scoop, although it was ‘interesting.’ Instead, I ordered up a cup with a scoop of brown butter almond brickle and chocolate peanut butter bliss. Brian went with the banana cream pudding and coffee.

Page 22

OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS We sat by the window overlooking the farm and pictureperfect red barn while enjoying our afternoon delights. Here are some of the other options for your eating pleasure: Baked Fox is an outer shell of chocolate chip cookie or chewy brownie filled with your favorite ice cream, a custom milk shake with any combination of flavors you can think of, or per-

haps an affogato – vanilla ice cream sitting in a serving of espresso and topped with whipped cream and a cookie. That will definitely bring you an extra few miles with an energy boost.

If you’ve come for lunch, you’ve chosen wisely as all their offerings are fresh and locally sourced. You’ve got your burgers and sandwiches, fresh salads and soups or any combination of the above. Just remember to save room for dessert, as Fox Meadows Creamery’s ice cream is spoon to table great, no matter which flavor you choose. Remember, there’s no season for ice cream, so enjoy!

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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

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Smooth Operator • Better Handling GPS Routes Coast to coast, LA to Chicago Across the north and south, to Key Largo He moves in space with minimum waste …

Smooth Operator - Sade How many times have you shared GPS route with your friends, only to have everyone looking to go in different directions at the first intersection?

For all their magic Global Position Systems – like Garmin and TomTom are not perfect. And, many times, preplanned GPS routes don’t work out the way we hoped or planned.

This has been a bit frustrating for all of us but there might be a simple and fairly easy answer to this issue. Follow along…

Most routes are calculated according to the map you are using, and the settings on your device.

Sometimes the same route will send the rider off in a different direction when loaded onto different devices set with different preferences or avoidances, or used with different maps.

Since not everyone has the same model, maps or device we needed to find a more universal way of doing this. Waypoints can change with devices, but a track, acting more like a ‘breadcrumb trail’ is going to look the same no matter what maps or settings you are using.

At least this is the plan.

So, lately we’ve been creating our custom routes a bit differently, using both waypoints and tracks in a back and forth manner to try to avoid the differences so many have with their GPS. For the most part these newer routes have done the trick and we have begun calling them ‘Smooth’ routes. The first one we saw, at least for us, was a few years back at the Ramapo 500, created by the Peck brothers.

Working much like old GPS routes used to, it allowed us to slip onto the route 50 miles in and go off the route when needed and then back on without breaking stride, recalculating or having the route crash on itself and having to seek out the next waypoint on the route on the GPS screen – not the best idea while riding.

Page 24

OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

#1

They told us during dinner about converting the original BaseCamp-created route, what we now call ‘raw’, to tracks… and then creating a second route from that.

In the end this was mostly the same route they first plotted, but without the waypoint markers, just the directional changes and turns.

Brilliant, easy, and seemingly able to work on everyone’s GPS.

#2

#2a

In truth the significance of this did not drive home through our thicker skulls – but it did with GPS-Maven Paul Donoghue.

He, of infinite patience, explained it to us and we have been experimenting with them since.

At this point we think we have gotten far enough along that we can share this with you. It is time to be a Smooth Operator.

First off you need to have or make yourself a route.

Feel free to download one from the Backroads GPS Vault on our website. If you want to learn how to make your own route you will find a step-by-step guide to making routes with Garmin BaseCamp in our March 2016 edition (page 41), also found on our website.

So, you have a ‘raw’ route which has dozens of waypoint markers and you want to ‘smooth’ it out.

Double click on the route to get to the route’s info box (#1), and click on Create Track (#2) from the pull down menu on lower left corner (looks like a cog). Tracks will appear as footprints in your route file.

Once Tracks is made, with that listing highlighted (#2A), go to the Edit drop down menu and select ‘Create Route from Track’ (#3).

#3

When that is done you should have three routes.

The original, a track and your smooth route (#4).

Select the smooth route and unclick ‘Autoname’ and simple add ‘Smooth’ to the name – or call it whatever you like (#5). You must rename it.

Theoretically you should have two VERY like routes – they might be off by a mile or two – but pretty much spot on. One will have all the waypoints and one will not have any (#6).

On occasion the new ‘smooth’ route does an odd thing and doubles the mileage. We then simply make a

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

Page 25

second ‘smooth” route and this usually is spot on. Just delete the other route with doubled miles.

To be sure that the routes are the same we check the miles and go back and forth between the raw and smooth routes – they should be virtually the same.

We suggest you load ALL the routes to your device that way, if one goes wonky, you’ll have the other that should work. This has happened to us a few times and it is good to have back up.

When you load this onto your GPS you MUST set your preferences to ‘fastest time’ and have ‘auto-recalculate’ turned off or it will just re-do its own created route if you stray from the path.

Nobody wants that.

#4

#5

#6 Also – you will not have POIs on this – like a restaurant or museum. The route might ride true, but is blind to what it passes. We are working on this.

Well, Paul is working on this.

For now make a mental note or go old school and write down your planned restaurant stop address on a piece of paper. Remember paper?

GPS technology is constantly evolving and sometimes things get worse before they get much better – it is the way of the world. Still, having the ability to plan very complex and intricate routes from maps at home – paper and digital – has opened up an infinite amount of great backroads’ miles to us all. While riding with a group, it is better if everyone is on the same page and has the same information.

So give ‘Smooth Routes’ a try; we hope they work a bit better for you.

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Page 26

OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

42nd Ramapo 500 Four Decades Plus and Going Strong words and images: Brian Rathjen Over the mid-July weekend of the 14 & 15th the Ramapo Motorcycle Club held their 42nd annual 500.

For those who might not know what this is all about …let me fill you in.

For as long as many of us have been riding the Ramapo Motorcycle Club has carried on the yearly summer tradition of a ‘Road Tour’ which consists of two approximately 250 mile day rides to and from a pre-determined camp or fairgrounds – a venue that changes from year to year. Along the way Ramapo mixes up a great batch of roads to keep the ride interesting and fun.

This year’s ride, like the previous few, started in Congers, New York and then headed west through New Jersey and into Pennsylvania along some of the tinier backroads for which the region is known. Along this route they came right through our part of the Garden Sate – which worked very well for us.

A number of years back I stated that the 500 had become a “kindler & gentler” ride.

I have been riding this event on and off (mostly on) for neigh 30 years and I do remember the 500 being almost a challenge,

full of tasks, ultimatum and grit (yes, there was always some gravel back in the day). Finishing the entire weekend was something you would brag about at the water-cooler for the next week or so.

You rode the Ramapo 500… you got instant street-cred!

Perhaps the venerable road tour has gotten a bit more leisurely as the years have gone by (maybe), or we all have become older and better riders (one hopes); it just seems that way or perhaps it is a bit of both, which is probably the case.

So I was not surprised, or disappointed, that the first day’s ride was simply pleasant and fun in all regards. A good mix of twists and turns through forests, winding farm lanes and the occasional, and necessary, long straight slog for a few miles to get to the next jump-off spot and into more stimulating roads. There was even a lake monster named Fred.

We knew the end up site for this year – the Appalachian RV Resort, in Shartlesville, right off Interstate 78.

Although the 500 used to be a big camping thing, I think more and more riders and couples are opting for nearby hotels or renting cabins, which is what we did.

Unlike last year’s rental of Mater the RV,

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

the cabin at the Appalachian RV Resort was very nice, comfortable and just a stroll from the pool, dining hall and the Appalachian’s ice cream shop. Oh happy day!

Getting back to the getting older part – there was a time when some of us regretted one too many drinks during the 500’s Saturday night – now we fret with the knowledge that we really did not need that extra-large ice cream cone the night before. Oh, how the mighty have fallen – but, at least we ride happy and fresh the next day.

The pool worked well to cool us off from the 90+ temperatures that had settled in to the valley this afternoon and by early evening the field was now, if not a tent city, an affluent rip-stop suburbia.

Page 27 Dinner was decent with chicken, pulled pork and sausage, along with plenty of sides. Nobody went away hungry.

This year’s ride was routed and coordinated by club member Kevin Parrington, with help from other Ramapo members and his wife Claudia who did a yeoman’s job of handing out about a quarter million beautifully packaged door prizes – with a zeal that would rival any of the hosts on QVC. Yes, Claudia made winning a small USB charger an almost lifechanging moment.

Page 28

OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

for the most part we liked the campground and found its only real fault was not having a larger outdoor gathering place. after dinner was done and the last award handed out many quickly retreated to their campsites or rode away to their hotels. so we walked around to see folks we knew and say hello to friends we only seem to see on weekends like this. sunday’s breakfast was found in the dining room and was made up of sausage, french toast and some sort of daRpa-style egg product. the time spent talking with friends this morning was made even more eventful and fun by watching the various faces made by the unknowing when they took a bite of the wannabeeggs. this day found far cooler temperatures and graying skies as dark and slightly ominous clouds were beginning to build to the west.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

Years ago when the 500 and we were made of tougher stuff, we’d have ridden unknowingly into the tempest (and, happily sucked down the DARPA eggs too).

Not so today, as the campgrounds bandwidth got sucked up by 1,000 cell phones all opening some sort of weather app to discover the gathering of reds, yellows and oranges on radar and heading our way in quick fashion.

With the heat and ‘promise’ of no rain till late Sunday night many had opted for lighter vented gear – including Shira and I. What a difference a day can make.

As we rolled out, the thunder and rain rolled in. In just a few miles we were more than a bit wet, stopping to layer on fleece that quickly became a chilly and pathetic wrap.

We then made a turn onto a recently chip and oiled road called Tumbling Run, just as a large bolt of lightning kissed ground just a quarter mile away.

Roh-ro. Wait a minute….

Hard rain, falling temperatures, poor gear choice, chip and seal roads and lightning…? My Gawd, did this just become a Ramapo 500 of old?!

Oh happy day! Sometimes you gotta be careful what you wish for.

The rain and cold was just annoying. The lightning – a bit more problematic.

We rode by riders from the ‘top of the class’ waiting the electricity out in a wide-open barn. We found others under a roof of a local medical facility. We hung with them for a bit till the fulguration abated a bit.

The rain and light show, although robust, was short

Page 29 lived, but still pestered riders on and off for the rest of the day along the route that came across into New Jersey over the privately-owned Dingman’s Ferry Bridge and down through the beautiful Walpack Valley before returning into Sussex County and right by Backroads Central.

Cold, damp and done we took our cue and hit the showers while others (yes, all more intrepid than us) continued on to the end site at Rhodes Tavern in Sloatsburg, NY. Another 500 in the books.

Our thanks to the Parringtons and the entire Ramapo Club for another midseason classic. Like the All-Star Game later that week, we have always thought of the Ramapo 500 as the midpoint in the riding season. A perfect time for a great weekend overnight with like-minded riders; we are already wondering in what direction #43 is headed.

Page 30

OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

FALL FANCY FOLIAGE

or many of us it has been a very hot and wet summer. As we begin our slide into the end of this, we think that all the moisture will have a very colorful, bright and dynamic finish to the 2018 riding season in the northeast.

F

What we like to do each year is present to you some suggested roads that will offer not only a great plethora of fall colors but some superior riding as well.

So, strap on your helmet, put some Kodachrome in the camera (remember that?) and follow along as we do a little Fall Fancy Foliage 2018.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

Page 31

New Jersey • County Road 517 This great New Jersey road runs for about 55 miles from the central part of the state in Hunterdon County to the border with New York State and continues on as Orange County Route 26. Along the way it crosses the Musconetcong and Raritan rivers and dozens of clear and beautiful lakes, as well as passing over the Appalachian Trail just before heading into New York. Just past Long Valley, the road shares its name with Schooleys Mountain, which is a twisty piece of tarmac through a nice section of wooded land.

You can ride the full 55 miles starting in the south at the Tewksbury Inn, in Tewksbury, NJ (duh) and ending at the Pochuck Valley Farm Market, with an ice cream cone, just before entering New York – or vice versa. Along this half a hundred miles you will pass through a number of towns, with one or two being known ‘Revenuers,’ so ‘when in town, slow the bike down.’

This rule works around the world.

Page 32

OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

Pennsylvania • Route 154 This road has been a favorite for years. It is one of those roads that, for whatever reason, falls off your radar and when it is rediscovered you want to ride it every day.

PA Route 154 is just 30 or so miles long, running from Laporte in the southeast to Canton in the northwest. It first winds through Loyalsock State park, along the creek with the same name.

The road is full of great sweeping turns, superb elevation changes and soon enters World’s End State Park, listed as one of the “Twenty Must-See Pennsylvania State Parks,” before entering Forksville.

Just before the covered bridge you will find the Forksville General Store.

This place has been featured a number of times in Backroads and has some of the greatest food in the region and, it is said, the greatest Philly Cheese Steak sandwiches in Pennsylvania.

Keep rolling along till the end and, if you are smart (and you are), you come back the same way. It is that good!

New York • Barkaboom & Big Indian Here in the Catskills we have a few ‘go to’ roads that we always seem to find ourselves on. So we thought we’d link them together for a fall foliage mountain romp.

This 85-mile ride starts at the Riverside Café’, on County Road 17 just north of Roscoe, New York. The Riverside is a superb place, with a comfortable feel to it, and some great food as well.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

From there we’ll head east on Old Route 17 before making a left along Beaverkill Road (SR 151). This will eventually run into Barkaboom Road, which will take you to the Pepacton Reservoir. Note that these roads are twisty and deserve attention – no matter how pretty the leaves or waterfalls may be. At the bottom you will make a right along BWS #9 to Route 28.

We’ll head east on this great New York state road to Big Indian, in Oliverea and make a right up and over the mountain on Route 47. On the other side you will enter the Frost Valley (named after a family, not the weather) and continue on Route 19 to Route 55 – where you can continue on through the lower Catskill Mountains.

Shira’s Harriman State Park Ice Cream Run We thought we’d save this most fun short (55-mile) and sweet ride for last – this also finishes at one of Shira’s Inside Scoop Ice cream stops, so how much better does that get?

Get yourself to the old Red Apple Rest in Southfields, NY and head north on Route 17 to Arden Valley Road. Arden Valley Road is five miles long and recently paved and passes along some of the old mines that for which this region was known.

Page 33

At the Tiorati Circle go ¾ the way around and pick up 7 Lakes Drive to Route 6 east. This becomes a bit highwayish, so be cautious here. Should you be a bit hungry and want to try some superior barbeque, head up Route 9W a few miles and drop into the Barnstormer in Fort Montgomery. You will be happy, full and ready to ride for your ice cream reward with renewed vigor.

Point yourself south on 9W and as you approach the Bear Mountain Bridge follow signs for 7 Lakes Drive west and Perkin’s Drive. It is well worth the ride up to the monument at the top and the view of the Hudson Valley may not be equaled anywhere else in the United States.

Dropping back down to 7 Lakes Drive head west and at the second traffic circle traffic circle go ¾ the way around and pickup Tiorati Brook Road and head east.

This road follows Arden Valley’s personality and is a blast to navigate.

Keep your eyes peeled for Lake Welsh Parkway and take that to the right

Page 34

OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS and continue back to 7 Lakes Drive and head east again to the first traffic circle and go ¾ the way around and pick up Route 106.

We really love this part of the park and it too was recently resurfaced. Happy us!

Cross over New York State Thruway on Route 17A and continue up the mountain, past Renaissance Faire and through Greenwood Lake, staying on Route 17A to the right. Note that the Stop Signs in this town are to be taken very seriously.

Bellvale Farms Creamery is atop the next mountain on the right.

Here you will find some of the finest homemade ice cream available in the lower Hudson Valley region. You can even see their cows down in the valley as you enjoy a cone or cup and the second stupendous view of this ride.

Enjoy the autumn colors and rides and we’ll see you on the road!

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

PRODUCT REVIEW

Page 35

AVON TREKRIDER TIRES The new Avon TrekRider Tires offer versatile construction built with a specially formulated dualrubber compound. The center patch of the tread pattern utilizes a tougher hard rubber compound for better mileage while the outer edges run a softer compound for better grip when the turns begin to tighten up.

Built in England, Avon claims these to be a 50/50 tires – meaning the TrekRiders carry not only deeper and more aggressive chevron tread pattern but tougher carcass construction for more durability on hard rough surfaces of some tracks that just barely resemble a road.

To achieve this Avon mixed synthetic rubber and carbon over three nylon tread plies front and rear.

Added support comes from three nylon sidewall plies for a rear tire and two for a front. This allows the TrekRiders to gobble up sharp rocks and abuse that other, more street oriented tires, would give up the ghost on.

We have found them to be most excellent on the backroads and along the fire and gravel roads on the United States.

We have put a few thousand miles on them this past season in conditions ranging from well-paved mountains roads, miles of Vermont gravel and some hidden two-track we ‘accidentally’ came upon.

You can definitely feel the tires on some surfaces, but we still found this feedback to be an advantage when combined with the planted feel they offer and yet, for such an aggressive pattern, TrekRider tires ride very quietly.

Wet weather performance was stellar and we would not hesitate to run these TrekRiders for a couple days of track time either.

If you have a mid to large adventure machine and are looking for a tire that does yeoman’s work

whether long-distance touring, backroads bombing or crossing through the Isthmus of Panama – the Avon TrekRiders will get the job done. You can find the Avon TrekRiders at your local shop or log onto Avon’s website at www.avontyres.com/en-us/.

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Page 36

OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

E

arlier in the year we found that the BMW Riders Association were to hold their national rally at the Tioga Fairgrounds, just a few miles east of Wellsboro, Pennsylvania in mid-July. We had not been to an RA Rally in a number of years and the chance to spend some time at the rally and along the excellent roads of this part of northcentral Pennsylvania were not to be missed.

The Endless Mountains, Valleys and Roads of PA 2018 BMW Riders Association Rally

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Riverside Cafe & Lodge • 16624 Cty Hwy 17 • Roscoe, NY • 607-498-5305 www.riversidecafeandlodge.com • GPS: 41°58’09”N • 75°01’32.6”W

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018 We were to ride out with two other riders – Rick Mickles, owner and chief instructor of Ride Like a Pro NJ, and his friend Gary Genz, who turned out to be the mayor (and Patriarch) of Winfield Park, New Jersey. Wow – excellent company.

Perhaps foolishly they agreed to meet us early on a Thursday morning at the truck stop at the confluence of Route 94, 46 and I-80 for breakfast and then follow our lead through the Keystone State.

Sure, follow us – we know where we’re going.

Actually we really did – but, still the pressure was on a bit to come through with a killer route and I think we did just that, well except for that one longish stretch of gravel, okay, and the stupid mountain dirt road that went straight up, oh, yeah and the 30 miles of chip & seal along with the way too numerous detours – it was perfect.

As if on schedule we came across a mid-morning ice cream stop called Red Rock Scoops, outside of Benton – great soft-serve in a wide variety of flavors and one big ass Adirondack chair in which to enjoy them.

Along the way, as you might think, we found a few things – one especially different.

Many VFW and American Legion Halls will have retired weaponry outside. Tanks, mortars or jeeps – the usual cool retired military toys. But, we came across one that had an early Cruise Missile - a Martin MGM-

Page 37 13 Mace. These ground-launched missiles flew at speeds of 650 miles per hour, had a range of 1,400 miles, and were deployed in West Germany and South Korea until the early 70s. There are just a handful of these weapons to be found these days – most at museums like the one at White Sands, New Mexico or the National Air Force Museum at Wright–Patterson Air Force Base in Ohio. Yet, somehow, one found its way to the McDermott Post 452, American Legion in Pennsylvania.

Nice – can we get one for Monkey with a Gun? All in all the day went swimmingly with no issues.

Well, there was one town, where our two stragglers were stopped by a young local LEO who, it turns out, was just wantin’ to say hello to the retired Sergeant Mickles. We need what Rick carries in his wallet.

Undaunted our heroes carried on.

We rode to the rally site, signed in, got our wristbands and took a quick stroll around the small, but

Page 38

OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS interesting, vendor area before taking a walk around the grounds that were quickly sprouting tents of various sizes, shapes and colors.

For us our tent was about 15 miles west along Route 6 at The Coach Stop Inn – for is ‘camp’ not a four-letter word?

With a bar, restaurant, pool and comfortable, if paper-thin, hotel rooms it would work for us for the next few nights.

The next day, after riding through a deepish morning fog that blanketed the mountains, we hit the iconic Wellsboro Diner for breakfast. This would be the first of two old-school American Diners this day – and, although it was a bit of a wait, it did the job for us.

We got to the rally in time to catch John Flores’ talk on his journey across the country from California to New York following the historic travels of George Wyman who, in 1903, rode his 1902 California Motorcycle Company’s Motor Bicycle, across the continent, beating the first auto by twenty days. John did it on a Zero electric motorcycle. His talk far exceeded what we expected and opened

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up many eyes to Wyman’s story which, for we touring riders, is comparable to Lindbergh crossing the Atlantic.

Over the next few days there would be other seminars including Bob Lilly speaking about Long Distance Endurance Riding, the infamous Jack Riepe talking about whatever it is Jack talks about, Tamela Rich on women riding and even Garmin GPS was there to talk technology and today’s BMW Navigator and other Garmin products – among many others; a good and interesting line-up of speakers.

Shira and I did another lap around the rally, taking especial interest in the antique BMWs on display and then running into friends from the Sport Touring Motorcycle Club, before scooting out for our own little day ride around the Grand Canyon of PA and regions south along the endless peaks.

These roads here are simply phenomenal – gentle sweepers, great elevation changes and a great piece of rough asphalt that ran along a cliff-faced roadway that skirted the famed Pine Creek – the mother of the canyon.

We stopped for a bit at Wolfe’s General Store in Slate Run. This place is a Mecca for fly fishermen and they have a little bit of everything to offer passing travelers here in, literally, the middle of nowhere.

Atop the peaks along Route 44 the roadside was full of Queen’s Anne Lace

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

Page 39 Although the rally would continue for another day, we were on the move and with another perfect day on tap for Saturday we made our plans for a backroads ride home.

On our way out we took Route 154 west. Nothing seemed better than to take this same superior piece of modern asphalt and road building technology back east. Truthfully Route 154 is all of 30 miles or so long, but with its fine sweepers, great elevation changes and good sighting distance (well most times) offers some of the utmost exciting and pleasurable sport touring pavement in the state.

And, right in the middle of all this, just outside World’s End State Park, you will find the Forksville General Store & Restaurant. Found just across

Come Ride the Dragon Deals Gap 318 Curves in 11 Miles

and some sort of flowering milkweed that had hundreds of butterflies, Monarchs and Swallowtails, flittering amongst them. We did our best to avoid them as their sheer number was impressive.

Along about this time I got a text from O’Life – “Rathjen, if you are out on Route 6 near Coudersport check out the Ice Cave for me, thanx.” Of course Seymour – I am at your beck and call. Jeesh…

We vectored north along Route 44 and popped out onto Route 6 just east of the caves. We grabbed a quick bite at another classic Paterson-style diner called Fezz’s, and then headed down the road and up the side of the mountain to the Coudersport Ice Cave.

Here is a true Mysterious America as in this small cave, carved out by two men in the 1800s, you will find the season reverse themselves.

For still unknown reasons ice and icicles from each spring and summer but fade with the coming of winter. How odd that these ice formations appear in the shaft during the spring of the year, and continue through the hot weather of the Pennsylvania summer, and then disappear in winter. Ice appears in various shapes and forms, the icicles measure some 3 feet.

We paid our money and took the quick tour, which was basically walking into an open-air alcove. It was indeed much colder in here and the ice was thick and perplexing. Look to a future Mysterious America column to find out more on this Keystone State oddity.

We returned to the rally for one final time, taking in a seminar of touring Colombia with our friend Mike Thompson, whom we toured with half a dozen years back.

Wellsboro has a number of excellent restaurants, so finding a great meal that night was easy and the ride back to the hotel was one of those perfect summer night rides with the sun just under the horizon and the mountains a glow with the day’s afterlight.

www.dealsgap.com 800.889.5550 17548 Tapoco Road, Robbinsville, NC 28771

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Page 40

OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

Route 739 • Dingmans Ferry, PA • 570.828.1920

the covered bridge that crosses the Loyalsock River, this place was featured back in our January of 2014 edition and still rates as one of the best places in Pennsylvania to ride across for breakfast or lunch. Mike and his crew offer food that is way beyond the norm and their Bada Bing Omelet and FRX Slammer breakfasts still rock the mountains. Since we first visited, their Philly Cheese Steak (Mike is a native Philadelphian, as if you will not figure that out) has been voted #1 in the State

by USA Today.

Here is a tip – ride Route 154 and search out the Forksville General Store – you will be glad you did both.

Fully fueled, caffeinated and riding under ever graying skies we continued east and along some almost as equally great backroads to the shore of the Susquehanna, outside Bloomsburg and Bill’s Bike Barn.

It seems each time we go here it has gotten bigger and bigger. Bill’s collection is not just great old bikes – but everything you can imagine - cameras, robots, GI Joe’s, auto and bike memorabilia, a wall of beer cans– everything and anything.

Although we thought we’d quickly run through Bill’s, it is neigh impossible and we ate up a bit more time than we planned. But, time well spent.

It was beginning to pepper rain about this time, as a predicted storm spinning in from the Atlantic coast was promising a wet end to what was a number of perfect riding days weather-wise. The rollercoasters of Knoebels would have to wait for another day as we made time east and, eventually, back across the Delaware River and the friendly confines of Sussex County, New Jersey.

Congrats to the BMW Rider’s Association on a great rally – the RA picked a superb region to hold this year’s gathering as it offered plenty of accommodations, a variety of restaurant offerings and some seriously great riding as well.

For us it was an easy, fun and doable few days riding into one of our favorite regions of the northeast – the Endless Mountains of Pennsylvania and a chance to rediscover why so many riders return here again and again.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

BOOK REVIEW

Page 41

DISCOVERING THE MOTORCYCLE BY ARMAND ENSANIAN

At Backroads Central we have a room with a large double bookcase. On its shelves, for the most part, are motorcycle books. Lots of motorcycle books.

Not too far back I had stopped at our local shop Motorcycle Madness, in Lafayette, New Jersey. The owner, Tom, brought out a book and asked me if I had ever seen it; Discovering The Motorcycle by noted motorcycle historian Armand Ensanian.

Indeed I had heard of it but, sadly, never got to read it.

“Do you know he lives in our town?” Tom said.

Whuuut?

A few weeks later Mr. Ensanian was kind enough to send me Discovering The Motorcycle. It was a kind gesture and as we were heading out on a rather long road trip I simply put it on my desk.

Truth is… it is big and heavy – and I thought it might put my luggage past the dreaded 50 lbs. mark.

There is a reason for this.

I returned and hefted it up to the bedroom, where I thought I would take a quick look at it. Many days later I realized this could be THE BOOK about motorcycles.

It is a technical book that is easy to read and is written with passion. My face was stuck into it each night.

Let’s be real. The motorcycle industry is having some issues, but with Discovering The Motorcycle, the author has rekindled the flame of why we really ride! And, we need this.

Is it pricey? $30 more or less. Yup, but, so is your bike.

Endless Mountain BMW Rally Resources The Coach Stop Inn and Tavern: 4755 Route 6, Wellsboro, PA 570-290-7867 • www.coachstopwellsboro.com Wellsboro Diner: 19 Main St, Wellsboro, PA • 570-724-3992 Wolfe’s General Store: 14167 PA 414, Slate Run, PA 570-753-8551 • www.slaterun.com Fezz’s Community Diner: 9 Ice Mine Rd, Coudersport, PA 814-274-3399 • www.facebook.com/fezzsdiner Coudersport Ice Mine: 176 Ice Mine Rd, Coudersport, PA 814-274-9900 • www.facebook.com/gary.buchsen Forksville General Store: 22 Bridge St, Forksville, PA 570-924-4982 • www.forksvillestore.com Bill’s Bike Barn: 7145 Columbia Blvd, Bloomsburg, PA 570-759-7030 • www.billsbikebarn.com

We are pretty sure that the highest praise we can offer a book like this is to have it on our coffee table – where non-riders can see it.

Maybe pick it up, and perhaps put it back down, just a bit envious of us – as they don’t ride – but, they wish they did.

You can find Discovering The Motorcycle on Amazon – the holidays are coming…

Page 42

OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

Irish Night

at Thatcher McGhee’s Our world wide gastronomic chase continued on a stunning and warm early August night.

Hard rains and the threat of more of the same kept many off the bikes, but still a few braved the good chance of a wet ride home and we had the largest crowd yet show up for these monthly soirees.

So far we started in the USA, then headed to the exotic land of Mongolia, rode to Greece, and then across the Adriatic to Italy.

This night we were heading to Ireland in a culinary manner of speaking. Thatcher McGhee’s is located in Denville, NJ, which worked for many at it is close by a number of bigger roads.

With no imminent squalls about the region we plotted a meandering ride from Sussex County down to Denville. Trying to get over the small mountains that run north and south along this part of New Jersey, I was stymied at my inability to find a cut through road. Not that the 6,500 acre military research and manufacturing facility called Picatinny Arsenal had anything to do with this. Never. So we rode up and around to Route 23, picking up CR 513 and were in Denville in about an hour.

This was our biggest gathering to date – sure n begorrah, ‘twas the luck of the Irish!

Denville was a busy town this Wednesday, but all found some parking and it was great to have a gathering of riding friends in the middle of the week.

Well, the entire thought on our International Meals on Wheels is simply an excuse to get out for a mid-week ride and have a night away from the ordinary. This night was just that.

Although we hope for folks on bikes, we certainly understood people driving in as well. We were happy to see all. We even had one friend who now lives in Florida join us.

As you would think the faire was very Gaelic, with folks ordering corned beef & cabbage, Guinness beef stew or shepherd’s pie. For those who wanted

it all there was a taste of Ireland that had a little bit of everything- Irish bangers with sautéed onions, Guinness beef stew, chicken pot pie, Irish lamb stew, shepherd’s pie, mashed potatoes and a buttered Irish scone.

There was even an Irish breakfast being served…a traditional hearty breakfast made up of of Irish bangers, black & white pudding, Irish bacon, French fries, grilled tomatoes,

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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

Page 43

baked beans, scrambled eggs with a buttered Irish scone.

For those who drove, not rode, there were a few pints of excellent Irish beer to be had as well. An after dinner stroll across the street to the Denville Dairy, that has been churning out great ice cream for more than 50 years, was in order as well on this hot summer night.

The promised rains never really took form and we rode home that night under a balmy clear and star-filled sky.

Ireland…. check.

Where in the world will we be travelling to next on our International Meals on Wheels Tour, you ask? With the dark coming earlier as the year draws to a close, we might have to change dinner to late lunch and move the last of the meals to a weekend. Keep an eye on our Facebook and Rally pages for upcoming news.

Hearty appetite and safe travels.

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

GIVI S920M SMART CLIP

The Givi S920M is a universal smartphone holder, compatible with motorcycles, scooters, ATVs, UTVs and bicycles. Designed for standard devices with external dimensions from 112 x 52mm to 148 x 75mm (without sleeve or case).

The Givi S920M comes complete with a universal bracelet style mount that adapts to diameters from 8mm to 35mm and safety elastic straps for extra security.

This mount does not interfere with the main lens of the phone camera allowing video shooting on the go.

The Smart Clip is made of

bi-injected techno-polymer and TPR for extra resistance and the ability to grip corners that are not perfectly round. Its wide adjustment range allows for a variety of different smartphones to be used. It also has an easy lock and release of the device and elastic safety strap for use on rough or dirt roads.

S920M Smart Clip sells for $109.00 • giviusa.com

accommodations available six newly Renovated Rooms

PLENTY OF ROOM FOR GROUPS

Bar • Lunch • dinner At the intersection of Great Homemade Meals and Beautiful Backroads

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Page 44

PRODUCT REVIEW

OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

LEATHER AND WATER

Nothing is waterproof.

Even the best-treated leather will eventually soak through. Still, leather saddles, boots and gloves need tender care to keep them in shape, supple and, hopefully, water-resistant.

There are a number of products on the market these days so we thought we’d give a few a totally unscientific test.

back Leather Seal, Atsko’s Sno Seal, NikWax Leather Restorer and Skidmore’s Leather Cream and Waterproofing.

All these products are easily available from many sources including brick & mortar shops and the web.

Outback Leather Seal ($20) One of our saddles has been hidden under a BeadRider pad for about 18 months and removing the pad gave us the perfect test subject for a few of these leather treatments, as the leather was fairly well beat up from the constant rubbing of the BeadRider for thousands of miles.

We eyed out the saddle into quarters and applied each of these products, per manufacturers instructions. This is what we ended up with.

As you can see in image #1the saddle is seriously in need of some TLC. The four products we used for this comparo were (from left to right) Out-

We found this product at the TourExpo at this year’s Americade.

It is made with beeswax, eucalyptus and avocado oil and Outback Leather Seal is safe to apply by hand. In fact when the sales guy showed us how spiffy our beat up boots would look he used his hands to rub it in.

We like natural and safe.

Being us, we seem to naturally attract wet weather and moisture surely beaded off the boots in an easy manner.

When used on our saddle test Outback Leather Seal cleaned up its portion well and left a smooth, if slightly flat, look to the leather.

BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

Page 45

Atsko’s Sno-Seal ($7.92) Sno-Seal also uses beeswax and has been around for decades, with a big following in the hiking community. We applied the product along the saddle and were very impressed with how it seemed to soak in, leaving a very nice sheen to the saddle. Maybe too nice.

NikWax Leather Restorer ($9.99) Although it did not give the saddle any sort of gloss look it did a great job of cleaning up the base cowhide and, with a plethora of other leather product to follow, this was never a one-shot-heals-all application. NikWax is synonymous with waterproofing, but for one time application you will need more.

And NikWax has a product for just about any application.

Skidmore Leather Cream & Waterproofing ($11 each) This was a two-part deal - the leather cream and then the waterproofing.

BUT, we have been using Skidmore for a bit and it is worth the effort. It gives a good cleaning and revitalization of the leather – it just takes a bit of elbow grease.

Narrowing it down to the task at hand, which was to bring back a saddle that has seen far better days, we went to Test Two. The rear saddle had half redone with SnoSeal and the other with Skidmore’s two-part process.

Skidmore’s looked better (twice the price too) – especially where the saddle’s leather had been worn a bit, but SnoSeal was a one shot deal and easier to use.

When it was all done we gave the first saddle a

good going over with the Skidmore’s dual process and, well, the results are here to see.

These tests we repeated with a variety of boots, which can’t hurt in the least when caught in a storm. The more waterproofing the better we think.

You have your choices, but leather gear - like gloves, boots and saddles need tending to – and there are a bunch of products out to there to help.

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Page 46

OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

Rip & Ride® • Kimchi Smoke Barbeque 301 Center Ave., Westwood, NJ 07675 • 201-497-6333 • www.kimchismoke.com GPS Download: https://www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/931gv6 Directions

Distance

Total

Start at Hanover Powersports, 210 Rte. 10 Head East on Route 10 Turn right to make Left onto River Rd

0.6 mi

0.6 mi

Turn right onto Eagle Rock Ave

2.5 mi

3.2 mi

Turn left onto Harrison Ave

6.6 mi

9.8 mi

Turn right onto Church St

1.7 mi

11.5 mi

Turn left onto Valley Rd/CR 621

433 ft

11.6 mi

Turn left onto Laurel Pl

2.8 mi

14.3 mi

Turn right onto Upper Mountain Ave

436 ft

14.3 mi

Bear right onto Long Hill Rd

1.3 mi

15.7 mi

Turn right onto Long Hill Rd

0.3 mi

16.0 mi

Turn right onto Notch Rd

0.2 mi

16.1 mi

Turn left onto Rifle Camp Rd

0.3 mi

16.5 mi

Turn right onto New St

2.2 mi

18.7 mi

Turn left onto Grand St

0.7 mi

19.4 mi

Turn right onto Hoxey St

185 ft

19.4 mi

Turn right onto McBride Ave

0.1 mi

19.5 mi

Turn right onto McBride Ave

0.2 mi

19.8 mi

Turn left onto McBride Ave Ext

391 ft

19.9 mi

Turn left onto Curtis Pl

0.3 mi

20.2 mi

Turn left onto W Broadway

0.2 mi

20.4 mi

Turn right onto Belmont Ave

0.4 mi

20.8 mi

Turn right onto Church St

1.1 mi

22.0 mi

Arrive at Church St

0.2 mi

22.1 mi

Keep left onto High Mountain Rd

0.3 mi

22.4 mi

Enter roundabout Roundabout

3.9 mi

26.4 mi

Distance

Total

3rd right onto Franklin Lake Rd

122 ft

26.4 mi

Turn right onto Doty Rd

3.3 mi

29.7 mi

Keep left onto Skyline Dr

1.2 mi

31.0 mi

Turn right onto Greenwood Lake Tpke

5.0 mi

36.0 mi

Keep right onto Sloatsburg Rd

1.6 mi

37.6 mi

Bear right onto Sloatsburg Rd

2.5 mi

40.0 mi

Turn left onto Long Meadow Rd

1.4 mi

41.5 mi

Turn right onto Rte. 17A E

7.9 mi

49.4 mi

Straight onto Lake Kanawauke Rd

2.0 mi

51.4 mi

Enter roundabout Kanawauke Cir

4.5 mi

55.9 mi

2nd right onto CR 106

279 ft

55.9 mi

Bear right onto CR 98

3.5 mi

59.2 mi

Turn right onto Letchworth Village Rd

2.1 mi

61.3 mi

Turn right onto Thiells Mt Ivy Rd

0.9 mi

62.1 mi

Keep left onto Bedford Ln

0.2 mi

62.4 mi

Turn left onto US 202

1.9 mi

64.2 mi

Immediate right onto Rte. 45

214 ft

64.3 mi

Cross Rte. 59 to Chestnut Ridge Rd

5.8 mi

70.0 mi

Turn right onto Overlook Dr

6.2 mi

76.2 mi

Turn left onto Hillsdale Ave

1.2 mi

77.5 mi

Turn right onto Broadway

1.7 mi

79.2 mi

Turn left onto Irvington St

0.7 mi

79.9 mi

Turn right onto Center Ave

358 ft

80.0 mi

Arrive at 301 Center Ave

461 ft

80.1 mi

Directions

Small strip mall/ Kimchi Smoke on corner

American • Metric • Sport • Parts & Accessories • Award-winning Service • Performance Work • Dyno Tuning • S&S Pro Tuning Center • Power Commander Tuning Center

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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2018

Page 47

TBC – TOTAL BIKE CARE CLEANS, RENEWS, AND PROTECTS WITH ONE SPRAY TBC is LustreLab’s newest All-In-One cleaning product. According to the manufacturer, TBC safely cleans and shines all motorcycle surfaces and eliminates the need to buy multiple cleaners, degreasers, polishes and waxes. With each wash, TBC adds a protective acrylic coat that helps repel dirt, bugs and grime.

We received a sample bottle and, after a few good, wet and grimy rides, put it to the test. We were impressed.

After a quick wet down, we gave both the BMW and Suzuki a good spray of the TBC and after a minute or so went at it with brush, rag and hose.

There was a special warning on not letting TBC dry on the bikes, but that was never an issue. About 20 minutes later, after a quick blow dry, the bikes looked pretty damn good – not like they were detailed by ‘Marty’ - but good enough for us.

LustreLab’s uses its patented Acrylionic™ formula in TBC and it is this high concentration of acrylic polymers that cleans by removing dirt embedded in the divots and cracks of your bike’s surfaces, leaving a clear protective acrylic coating. LustreLab says you will never have to wax again.

While cleaning, TBC’s innovative chemistry helps eliminate water spotting caused by dirt accumulation that is trapped in water beads resulting from traditional waxed surfaces. With TBC, your bike stays cleaner longer and easily rinses clean between washes. The more you use TBC, the less you have to wash your bike. TBC is petroleum free, environmentally safe and is gentle on your skin.

Again, this is from the manufacturer – not us. But we will say this product worked as good or better than anything else on the market we have tried in the past.

One 24-oz. bottle of TBC ($10.95) is enough for 6-8 washes on most motorcycles. Money well spent. Log onto www.lustrelab.com for more information.

THE OLD RIDER’S ALMANAC The all-new Old Rider’s Almanac offers a mix of solid tactical, legal and strategic riding info, plus the usual riding skill building and safety advice in a fun-to-read storytelling format. Covers everything from how to speed most stealthily, to how to most-easily pick up a fallen bike, to how to anticipate and avoid left-turning idiots driving cars — and everything in-between.

Pat Hahn combines decades of rider training and personal daily commuting experience with keen instincts and subtle humor, to create a common-sense guide you’ll enjoy dipping into for fun, with plenty of good rider education stuff served on the side.

A few specific topics covered include higher speeds and covering longer distances, ‘laying it down’ and picking it up, mental awareness, legal tips and much more. There’s even a tear-out page citing the Code of Federal Regulations for those who ride with a headlight modulator, as proof they are legal.

At 64 pages, this little softbound tome is perfect to keep in a tank bag or jacket pocket for easy reference that can be usefully applied to everyday riding situations.

To get your own $10 copy of the Old Rider’s Almanac, or to order any of Pat Hahn’s other books, visit www.aerostich.com.

Page 48

OCTOBER 2018 • BACKROADS

UP C OM I N G E VE NT S CAL END AR

What’s Happening

EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTING Every Tuesday • Two Wheeled Tuesday at Spiegel Restaurant • 26 1st Avenue, NyC. An eclectic gathering of motorcycles served with multi-cuisine meals. Kick some tires, have some couscous, enjoy the crowd • www.spiegelnyc.com • 212-228-2894 Every Tuesday • Bike Night @ The Ear Inn, 326 Spring St, NyC Every Thursday • Bike Night at JumboLand, Route 206, Branchville, NJ. Tire kicking, good food and friends Every Saturday thru October • Bergen County H-D Saddle Up Saturday. 9am for coffee and bagels. Ride departs 10am. Returns to dealership for FREE music and food.

Proper attire MUST be worn! BCHD, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930

OCTOBER 2018 13 • Morton’s BMW Oktoberfest 9am-4pm. Demo rides, latest riding gear from BMW, Klim and more, door prizes, great deals, music and vendors. Food available from Sweet N Sassy Food Truck. 5099A Jefferson Davis Hwy, Fredericksburg, VA • 540-891-9844 • MortonsBMW.com • Check our Facebook page for updates.

27 • Hannum Harley-Davidson Octoberfest + Bike Giveaway. 12-4pm @ 1011 W. Baltimore Pike, Media, PA • HannumHD.com

NOVEMBER 2018 30 • Motorcyclepedia Museum Meet the Experts. Learn motorcycle restoration from the best: Ask the Wheelmen. Space is limited • Visit website for more information and to reserve a seat • MotorcyclepediaMuseum.org • 845-569-9065 30-Dec. 2 • Progressive Int’l Motorcycle Show, Javits Center, NyC. Fri: 2-8pm • Sat: 9:30am-8pm • Sun: 10am-5pm • Tix and Info: MotorcycleShows.com

DECEMBER 2018 1-2 • Motorcypedia Museum Meet the Experts. Learn motorcycle restoration from the best: Just Do It, The Future and the Electric Motorcycle, Are you a Knucklehead and Pinstriping 101. $10/seminar • 10am-2pm • Visit website for more information and to reserve a seat • MotorcyclepediaMuseum.org • 845-569-9065

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