October 2020

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W H A T ’ S MO NT HLY C O L U M NS

I N S I D E 22

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

FREE WHEELIN’ ..................................................3 WHATCHATHINKIN’ ...........................................4 ON THE MARK ....................................................5

Publishers

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil

Contributors

Mark Byers, Victor Cruz, Dr. Seymour O’Life

BACKLASH..........................................................6 INDUSTRY INFOBITES.......................................8

Editorial Office BACKROADS, POB 620 Augusta, NJ 07822

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN...............10 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA..................................12 WE’RE OUTTA HERE ........................................14 BIG CITY GETAWAY .........................................16

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INSIDE SCOOP .................................................20 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE ............................48

FE AT U RE S FINDING THE FALL COLORS...........................22 THE BREAKOUT - PART TWO..........................26 AN ADVENTURE IN PATAGONIA....................38 DOING’ DELMAR .............................................40 IS A LITHIUM BATTERY IN YOUR FUTURE....46

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PR O DU C T R E V IE W S BEADRIDER ......................................................19 PEEPS EYEGLASS CLEANER ..........................19

NEW YORK

MOTORCYCLE ACCIDENT VICTIMS The Law Office of Paul G. Gargiulo, P.C. 199 Main St. • Ste. 901 • White Plains, NY 10601

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If you’ve been involved in a motorcycle accident, get the knowledgeable, sympathetic and forceful legal representation you are entitled to. No fee unless a recovery is made. Testimonials available.

The One to Call in New York State Call the Law Office of Paul Gargiulo, P.C. for a free consult and evaluation of your case.

(914) 421-0905 www.whiteplainsaccidentlawyer.com

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BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2020. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2020

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RAThJEN

Road EtiquEttE For many years I have said that…if 100 motorcycles rode through Anytown, USA and 99 were quiet, well-muffled machines and the last one was an annoyingly loud open-pipe machine, the local newspapers would report that 100 loud, noisy, obnoxious and dangerous bikers from the Rebels M.C. tore through the town. It only takes one bad apple to spoil the barrel, right? At the International Motorcycle Show back in December, Backcountry Discovery Route’s local honcho, Tim James was speaking of how they encourage good behavior when groups following their routes ride through any town or municipality they happen to come upon. Many of their routes will bring riders far from the beaten path. Like many of our own Backroads Rally Routes, we follow Robert Frost’s ‘Road Not Taken’ philosophy – and that has, indeed, set a trend for the past 25 years. When the BDR heads into these smaller burgs they stress to be open, friendly and cheerful to the natives. He stated that a simple wave to the old folks sitting on the porch can make all the difference. We could not agree more and have been saying these same things again and again. Certainly, riding a motorcycle is a solitary sport that is sometimes best done with a group and it is up to every rider in the group to be with a good and smiling manner when dealing with the non-riding public. We are all emissaries and ambassadors of riding. What we do in the morning when we see people in town, along the road, working the fields, and they see us, will set the tone for the riders who are passing by that afternoon.

Page 3 We’re not saying to stop and chat – but, all it takes is a friendly wave and when in town and your helmet is off – a simple smile. Especially when you are on your own. Years back I was crossing the border into Mexico with my friend Skip. There was a slight question of who owned this machine I was riding. It turned out that I did but was not aware of this until we were strolling up to the border crossing office. Long story for another time. Skip reminded me of something of which I was kind of already very aware – always be ever pleasant and smile. Truth is… sugar does catch more flies than vinegar. The great motivational writer Napoleon Hill wrote, “A pleasing personality helps master the major cause of failure – the inability to get along with people harmoniously will stop you cold. Your personality can be your greatest asset or your greatest liability.” Then there is the Pack Mentality Projection. Not how we see ourselves, but how others see us and how the non-riding public reacts to us. If a group, more than two, pull into Main Street in AnytownUSA for breakfast, unless the passerby is a rider, or maybe was a rider back 50 years ago, no one will stop to talk. They will look the other way or stare straight ahead and not make any eye contact. If there are two guys – still maybe not. A couple, especially with out-of-state plates and a smile, will probably get a smile. If that smile and nod is returned – Well, a hearty “Good Morning” helps as well. That might be returned with a friendly question or three. You have made that human connection that most people embrace. Where you from? Did you ride all that way? What if it rains? Do you get wet? You know, the usual queries. Two women riding have the same friendly and disarming effect on most people as well. Sorry fellas – they will ignore two of us – but solo riders are VERY approachable. Continued on Page 18


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OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS

WHATCHATHINKIN’ SHIRA KAMIL

Short but Sweet A-roundin’ third, and headed for home, It’s a brown-eyed handsome man, Anyone can understand the way I feel.

~ John Fogerty

Since our first outing in May, we’ve hit the road running and tried to cram in as much as possible before the last calendar page goes flying in this all-too-short season. According to the Old Farmer’s Almanac, the northeast region of the U.S. will be getting a fair amount of the white stuff (what else would we expect after the year we’ve had). I’m not one to believe any weather forecaster, but according to records the Almanac has about an 80% accuracy rate. That’s not too shabby for something that’s been around since 1792. Robert B. Thomas, founder of the Old Farmer’s Almanac, believed that sunspots, which are magnetic storms on the surface of the sun, influenced weather on. His notes are locked in a black box in Dublin, New Hampshire. More recently, the folks at the Almanac have revised and improved their methods of prediction to include solar science, climatology and meteorology. No matter, no forecasters have as yet gained sufficient insight into the mysteries of the universe to predict the weather with total accuracy, so best ride as often as you can and pack your rain suit. The other night I was watching the Mets. Like almost everything this year, or at least since my birthday in March, what would normally have me very excited has turned into a ho-hum ordeal, and baseball is no different. While Gary, Keith and Ron were discussing how the cardboard cutout fans had done in the recent downpour, the scroll came across saying there were only 21 games left to the season. 21 GAMES?! Yes, I realize that the whole season only consisted of 60 games, if that, but where did the other 39 go? The Boys

also mentioned that 20 games were being played that day, with 5 double headers. When was the last time you sat through a double-header? Well, this season you could have your pick. How in hell did it get to be October already? By the time you have this magazine in your hands we’ll have held an Escape Weekend in State College, a Summer Squeeze and a Fall Fiesta in spite of the rest of the world trying to shut down. Those who joined us did so on their own terms and their own comfort levels and, from what we saw and the words sent to us, all had a great time. Yes, these gatherings were not as full but were still as much fun as the past 20 years worth. We rode, ate, drank and made merry – just a little further apart from each other. October is one of my favorite months to ride – the other being May – with the weather on the cool side, the roads a bit emptier as kids are in school and most places, restaurants and inns, not full to capacity. We’ll offer you up some great Autumn riding options in these pages that require no human contact, if you so desire, but bring you through amazing roads, vistas and natural beauty. Pack a lunch and have fun. October is also a great time to head south. Yes, we were scheduled to visit one of our favorite venues – Chincoteague Island – but that will have to wait for 2021. Instead, maybe we’ll just hop on the bikes and hit the coastal roads and see how far we get. Or maybe we’ll see if we can finally get to the Barber Museum (yeah, I know…). The options are endless and the roads are calling. If you haven’t ridden as much as you had liked, fix that. Sure, this season may seem like it was a day and a half long, but it’s not over yet. Take a ride to an orchard and bring home some autumn treasures to savor. Plan a weekend in the mountains and commune with nature. Spin your wheels to a beach and enjoy some sand between your toes. If you’d like to hook up with some fellow riders, stop by Van Sant Airfield in Bucks County where you can take to the skies in their biplane or glider. Many places have been holding Bike Nights – search them out and kick some tires. Whatever you do, DO SOMETHING. Before you know it, we’ll be rounding third and heading home from this short, but sweet, riding season. ,


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2020

ON THE MARK MARK ByERS

instruments of Mass Combustion Music and motorcycles go together. It’s no coincidence that some iconic album covers involve motorcycles: Prince and his Honda 400 on “Purple Rain,” a stylized rider screaming skyward on Meatloaf’s “Bat Outta Hell,” Janice Joplin aboard a chopped Sportster on her “Greatest Hits” album, Jimi Hendrix astride a chopper on “South Saturn Delta,” and the contemporary Lady Gaga becoming part of a motorcycle on the cover of “Born This Way.” I’m sure music aficionados can cite more examples, especially from the metal genre. Bands of all genres incorporated motorcycles into their songs. Bon Jovi sang “On a steel horse I ride” in “Wanted: Dead or Alive.” Motörhead’s iconic Lemmy dedicated “Iron Horse/Born to Lose” to the Hell’s Angels, Motörhead’s unofficial bodyguards. Our friend Byrd hates “Born to be Wild” by Steppenwolf because his dealership plays it every time they sell a motorcycle (c’mon guys, really). One of my personal favorites is the Allman Brothers’ “Midnight Rider.” A song that incorporates the roar of an engine is “Leader of the Pack” by the all-girl “Shangri-Las;” unfortunately, it also incorporates crash sounds to allude to the fate of bad-boy Jimmy. It’s up there in the attic with 1964’s “Little Honda” by the Beach Boys, a song the company should have paid Brian Wilson and Mike Love to record because it fit so well with their “You meet the nicest people on a Honda” campaign. One of my personal favorites is “Roll Me Away” by Bob Seeger, in

Page 5 which he “Headed out to my big two-wheeler, I was tired of my own voice. Took a bead on the Northern Plains and just rolled that power on.” To me, that’s the quintessential motorcycle ballad: he meets a girl he thinks is a kindred spirit in a bar, but when the motorcycle ride gets cold, it’s too much for her and she leaves him to carry on alone. Judging from the song, he still had a good time. There are a number of artists who ride. Prodigy’s Keith Flint is not only a sportbike nut, but a team owner. Rush drummer Neil Peart is known for riding his BMW GS on epic rides and writing about them. Green Day bassist Mike Dirnt has a Honda CB750 cafe racer made by Carpy Carpenter that I lusted after for years. Aerosmith’s Steven Tyler isn’t just a rider: in 2007, he launched a custom motorcycle company called Red Wing Motorcycles. The company’s been renamed Dirico Custom Motorcycles, but Tyler still signs each bike. Billy Idol likes to ride Triumph motorcycles (no surprise). Bruce Springsteen rides and bought his Moto Guzzi from Billy Joel, who owns 20th Century Cycles in Oyster Bay, Long Island. Mark Knopfler rides from home to his studio. Regrettably, there have been artists who came to grief at the hands of their motorcycles. Much-publicized anti-helmet guy Gary Busey famously crashed and it nearly cost him his life. Billy Idol rode through a stop sign in Hollywood and the resulting injuries supposedly cost him the role of a Terminator in the “T2” sequel. Steven Tyler, unsurprisingly under the influence of drugs and alcohol at the time, rode into a tree in 1981. Billy Joel was hit by a red-light runner and Dire Straits frontman Mark Knopfler ran into a car in London. By far, the biggest tragedies to befall musicians had to be the Allman Brothers’ loss of both Duane Allman, who died from crashing his Sportster in Macon, GA in October 1971, and bandmate Berry Oakley, who rode his Triumph into the back of a bus just over a year later and three blocks from the site of Duane’s fatal mishap. Continued on Page 18


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BACKLASH Hi Brian and Shira, Do you suppose that your advertisers know how big a bang they get for their dollars? Over the years I have eaten in dozens of your advertiser’s restaurants. I have stayed at numerous hotels and inns. I have bought many items and have visited dealerships that I wouldn’t have even known about if not for BACKROADS. Not only do you provide a service to the motorcycling community, but you help the industry survive by letting us know what is available out there. Enough with the kudos for now. Regards, bYRd Hello Backroads friends; I always particularly enjoy Mark Byers column. I just finished re-reading his article in the August issue. For a writer “struggling with what to write”, he really produced a gem. No wonder Backroads is my absolute favorite magazine; not only is it well written, local, inclusive of all riders, and a visual feast, but it includes feelgood stories at a time when we all really need them. Think I’ll hang it on my fridge. Manna Cali • On the Road Again Motorcycle School We like Mark’s pieces too – in addition to making us cogitate, ruminate and deliberate over his thoughts - he broadens our terminology.

OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS

Letters to the Editor Brian Rathjen’s September Free Wheelin’ editorial ‘Fear’ drew quite a reaction – here are a few… Hi Brian, Just wanted to say I think September’s Free Wheelin’ article - Fear – is one of your best. This weekend is the Moto-Giro in VA. Needless to say much concerns with 120 riders from all over. Your article was just want I needed and is on point. I’m the Mike Rowe frame of thinking, “I’m concerned, I’m just not petrified.” Same with friends, masks and divisions…Wow I guess throw in an election year too. Hope you had a great road trip out West. harvey Mushman Brian You said it all this month about covid. Words of truer wisdom were never spoken. Shared it with my Facebook community. Thank you for shedding a bit of light into a dark world. “So do not fear, for I am with you; do not be dismayed, for I am your God. I will strengthen you and help you; I will uphold you with my righteous right hand.” ~ Isaiah 41:10 John Ciribassi • Emmaus MotoTours Backroads, Fear is your best editorial yet, Brian. “I do me and you do you” should be on billboards. A disease is made much, much worse when politicized. We miss you guys. Onward… Robert Cooper

Other the other hand… Hi Brian, I was very disappointed with your column this month. Pretty selfish. So while your being you - it’s OK for you to kill me? Your acting like wearing a mask is some painful experience or stepping on your “rights”. You have no right to inflict harm on me or anyone else even at the expense of your rights. As a nation we’ve just started down this road. We have no idea where it’s going to end or if it will. Or, if it does, I’m sure the next virus is waiting off stage to jump in. Did you go to Sturgis? It’s just going to be a matter of time before the 1/4 million irresponsible attendees to start causing spikes in their home towns. Later, Norm Greetings, I just received the September issue ... and it is loaded with good stuff! Thanks very much! However, do you think that some assertive action may be needed with respect to social equity? If one simply peruses the pages, it becomes apparent that there are no stories, pictures, or writers (as far as I know) of people of color. I’d respectfully request, that you make efforts consistently to outreach to riders of color, collect their stories, pictures, and writers. In this day and age, this absence ... while maybe an oversight ... is completely correctable. Backroads is such a fine publication that it shouldn’t suffer from a criticism of a lack of diversity. What do you think? Mike Lambert


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2020 Mike, We have had all sorts of writers from around the world. All races, genders and sexual preference. We take submissions and are open to all. If the story is good AND the pictures are excellent – we surely welcome these. We have never asked anyone who or what they are. Because we don’t care. Human works for us, and all riders matter. Just read Sept. Breakout issue and you both deserve the American Freedom award for getting past your virus and personal losses to hit the road to Honda home in Torrance! I try to ride everyday and thanks to you I have a magazine that sets an example to my fellow riders! (I get my issue at Dave Newswanger’s Sport Motors in Newmanstown PA) Bravo ...encore please! Rob Roth 2018 KLR • Wyomissing, PA Hello Brian, I read with great fascination about your recent cross-country motorcycle test and road trip. I was planning on doing something similar, not with a test bike, but with my own bike this fall. However, in light of all the state wide government shut downs and associated problems with accommodations in typical hotel chains I’m wondering how you and Shira managed to get hotel rooms every night for about two weeks during this pandemic? Please let me know because I don’t want to set off on a cross country trip only to find that I have to sleep behind churches because no one will rent me a room. william K denton Bill, there was never an issue with lodging. When we were not staying with family/friends we would simply ride until we were tired and find a room. Plenty of options, all VERY sanitized and quite happy to see us.We hope that you do your trip and we look forward to hearing about it. Brian and Shira, Congratulations on 25 years and an OUTSTANDING 25th anniversary issue! While I read every issue cover to cover this one was truly exceptional.

Page 7 And thank you for featuring the Helite vest. I purchased one last year and won’t get on the bike now without it. While at first it felt just a bit cumbersome and very, uh, well, “conspicuous” (duh), like anything else I quickly got used to it. And if any of your readers are wondering, if you tumble off the bike after tipping over in front of a crowded restaurant when your foot slips on wet gravel, it will not trigger inflation. (Don’t ask me how I know...) Takes quite a tug on the tether to activate it. I pray that I never have to test it in anger but if I ever do I’m confident that the important bits will be as well protected as possible. Eric Suhr • Skylands BMW Riders Hi Brian... Hi Shira... I’ve been meaning to write you guys for a very long time about Backroads. Then I get busy and forget... Having been in the moto industry for 40 years (Really?) I recall when my desk always had a stack or two of moto mags. When Cycle News arrived every Wednesday, many would drop everything and sit down to read it. Admirable... don’t you think? To me Backroads is exactly that today and certainly in recent years. September issue just arrived and I have skimmed through many of the cool stories within 20 minutes of bringing it in the house. Most people have no concept how hard, and how much work it is to put out a publication of this caliber month after month. Plus get out on the road to gather the stories! It’s no secret that the last years have been extremely challenging... (daunting?) for any enthusiast print publications. Hats off to you both for doing such a splendid job! bill Kniegge • www.BlueStradaTours.com Wow. What a surprise I had reading about your latest Mysterious America in the Sept. 2020 issue. Way back when Amol Motorcycles in Dumont NJ existed I bought and serviced my first BMW (a 1978 R100RS) there... and lo and behold I well remember that traffic circle and the Obelisk in the center of it. A pleasure learning its history. Thank you so much. helene d.


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OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS

I ND U ST RY INFOBITES BMW GS TURNS 40! In autumn 1980 BMW Motorrad presented the R 80 G/S, a motorcycle which combined two very special areas of riding for the first time: Off-road and on-road. Thanks to its unique combination of road, touring and off-road capability – without compromising on everyday use – the R 80 G/S became the conceptual forerunner of the new motorcycle category of touring enduros and BMW Motorrad has sold more than 1.2 million BMW GS models over the years. (.2 million being both bought and destroyed by Backroads publisher Brian Rathjen.)

HUMBLE HERO PROJECT There are humble heroes all around us—the ones you don’t hear about, who forego sleep and work impossible hours in constant danger, the ones who battle on the front lines of the pandemic and put themselves last to take care of us first. There are many words to describe them—professional, compassionate, selfless, dedicated, brave, tireless—but we simply call them Heroes. Dunlop, wants to honor these Humble Heroes by giving you the opportunity to nominate a healthcare worker or first responder who went above and beyond during the pandemic, and they’ll reward one individual with a new 2020 Harley-Davidson XL1200 Sportster Roadster. Dunlop has a special appreciation for those who stepped up during the pandemic. Their factory in Buffalo, NY was designated essential early in the crisis, and their associates showed up, masked up and continued to do what they

News from the Inside do best every day—build premium tires for the American motorcyclist. To emphasize this, Dunlop Motorcycle Tires is collaborating with longtime partner Roland Sands Design (RSD) to create custom variations of the Sportster over the coming months featuring different Dunlop tires. The winner of this contest will receive a new 2020 Harley-Davidson XL1200 Sportster Roadster in stock condition. RSD’s builds will showcase what a great platform the stock Sportster is for customizing, and you will be able to follow along through Dunlop and RSD social networks: #humbleheroes, #wearedunlop, #ridedunlop, @rolandsandsdesigns, @ridedunlop. Make sure you view the contest information about The Humble Heroes Project as soon as the program kicks off on September 3, 2020. Click here to enter: www.dunlopheroes.com.

REVEL IS READY TO RIDE AGAIN. The electric moped company, which suspended operations last month, got approval from the de Blasio administration to restart its ride-sharing service Thursday with new safety measures. Riders must take pictures of themselves wearing a helmet and ace a 21-question quiz, twice. Revel will also have the ability to use its technology to spot mopeds traveling the wrong way on streets and being used riding in restricted areas such as parks, highways and major bridges. Riders violating the rules will be slapped with a seven-day suspension and then a permanent ban after a second violation. Use of the revel scooters soared as the company expanded into more neighborhoods. Many New Yorkers came to see the service as a way to get around without risking exposure to the coronavirus.


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2020

I-SPY DUCATI MULTISTRADA V4 Our men Scotty and Kelly grabbed this image while the new V-4 was being tested in near-finished form; the Multistrada V4 isn’t a secret anymore. Ducati officially announced its plans to make the bike last September, confirming it to be an addition to the Multistrada range rather than a replacement for either the 950cc or the 1,260cc V-Twin models. In a one-line statement, the firm said: “Development is ongoing, and in 2021 the Multistrada family will expand to see the twin-cylinder 1260 and 950 motorcycles joined by a version with a new, specific V-4 engine.” For a crappy year it is looking like fun for us riders!

IMTBIKE WINS 2020 TRIPADVISOR BEST OF THE BEST IMTBIKE, the veteran motorcycle touring company based in Madrid, Spain, announced it has been recognized as a 2020 Travelers’ Choice Best of the Best award winner for motorcycle tourism. This award is given to companies that exemplify traveler’s ultimate favorite, top 1% of hospitality businesses around the globe. IMTBIKE credits everyone in the IMTBIKE family for their positive attitude and dedication to exceptional service and quality. They would also like to thank all the wonderful people that have toured and rented motorcycles with them over the past 23 years and they look forward to many more years of exploring the world together. “Winners of the 2020 Travelers’ Choice Awards should be proud of this distinguished recognition,” said Kanika Soni, Chief Commercial Officer at

Page 9 Tripadvisor. “Although it’s been a challenging year for the travel industry, we want to celebrate our partners’ achievements. Not only are these winners well deserving, they are also a great source of inspiration for travelers as the world begins to venture out again.” To see IMTBIKE’S reviews please visit: www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g187514-d11829427-Reviews-IMTBIKE-Madrid.html To find out more about IMTBIKE’s tours and rentals please contact them at: tours@imtbike.com • tel: (412)468-2453 • www.imtbike.com

HONDA CELEBRATES A DECADE OF DCT Honda is marking a decade since its Dual Clutch Transmission (DCT) technology first appeared in its powersports product lineup. Having first appeared in U.S. dealerships on the VFR1200F sport tourer, DCT is now offered on Honda adventure bikes, touring bikes, ATVs and side-by-sides. Honda’s DCT remains unique in the Powersports world. In the past 12 months, 57% of Gold Wings and 38% of Africa Twins sold in the U.S. were DCT versions. Its success has been in large part due to a constant evolution of the technology, with refinements to the smoothness and timing of the gear shifts, and adaptations to match the riding characteristics required of a broad range of models. Examples include an off-road-focused G switch addition for the Africa Twin, and synchronization with Hill Start Assist, Walking Mode and Idling Stop on the flagship GL1800 Gold Wing luxury tourer.

CARB FINES COMOTO FOR ‘UNAPPROVED’ MOTORCYCLE EXHAUSTS The California Air Resources Board (CARB) has announced that Comoto Holdings, Inc., the parent company of Revzilla, J&P Cycles, and Cycle Gear, has agreed to pay a $1,937,500 fine for selling motorcycle exhaust systems not approved for street use in the state of California. CARB sets laws and emission regulations for California that are more stringent than the federal government. An aftermarket intake or exhaust can be legal for street use in most of the United States, but illegal in California because CARB has not certified it. According to RideApart.com, this case Continued on Page 18


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OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS

G REAT A LL AMERICA N DINE R RUN

tasty places to take your bike

SaMbo’S tavERN 283 FRONT ST, LEIPSIC, DE 19901 302-674-9724 • WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/SAMBOSTAVERN Callinectes sapidus. Beautiful swimmers. Chesapeake blue crabs. Or what we at Backroads like to think of as the call to summer. Every year we do our best to head south in search of a perch on a body of water with a bucket of crabs, a cold beverage and time to enjoy, as picking crabs is surely best done at a leisurely pace. Over the years we have found many a spot, each with its own ambiance. St. Michaels and Tilghman Island, which sit off the Eastern Bay of Chesapeake, has been a favorite spot enjoyed with friends. Chicoteague Island, home of the annual Oyster Festival, has always provided a restful weekend full of bivalves and crab splitting.

Our friend Alan K. had thrown out a name, several times, insisting that they have the best crabs in a quiet spot in Delaware. We had put it on our list of ‘one of these days’ as we never dismiss a suggestion. With some free time and the urge to crack some shells, we headed south to visit friends and indulge our desire. You’ll find Sambo’s Tavern north of center in Delaware, sitting on a peaceful dock along the Leipsic River, which snakes just west of the town of Leipsic through Bombay Hook National Wildlife Refuge into the Delaware River. Samuel “Sambo” Burrows, who grew up on a farm but became a crabber, founded the tavern in 1953. His daughter-in-law, Elva Burrows, and her husband Ike now own the tavern and continue his legacy. Sambo’s is open seasonally – late March through October – and is still a tavern, meaning no children allowed. According to Elva, Burrows said, ‘when people are going to eat crabs and drink beer, they have no business driving children around. He was ahead of his time.’ If you are lucky enough to snag a window seat, you might see the watermen tying up to unload their catch of the day, which might very well end up on your newspaper-covered table. Sambo’s proudly serves mostly Delaware swimmers, which are said to be sweeter than those from points south. When the blues aren’t running, they may bring some in from other states so as not to disappoint their diners. These beauties are steamed to a scarlet red and covered in a proprietary spice mixture that Elva holds secret – water-to-table as it were. Sambo’s is an unassuming structure but the setting is perfect for a seafaring meal. Try to time your dinner arrival for just about sunset, as it surely is one of the prettier ones you’ll see in these parts. You’ll enter into the bar area, making your way to

THANK YOU FOR YOUR CONTINUED SUPPORT We hope to see you soon!

OPEN FOR DINE-IN or TAKEOUT. Visit webpage for menu See daily specials on Facebook. Curbside Delivery Available. Tues: 4-9 • Wed: 12-9 • Thurs-Sat: Noon-10 Sun: Breakfast 9-1/ Lunch-dinner Noon-8

OUTDOOR SEATING NOW AVAILABLE SEE WEB FOR MENU • CALL IN ORDER • CURB DELIVERY RivertonHotelandRestaurant

the Riverton hotel and Restaurant At Belvidere-Riverton Free Bridge, Riverton, PA

610-498-4241 • www.rivertonhotel.net

Member of


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2020

the big, open dining room with long tables. Take your time and peruse the memorabilia festooning the walls – there’s over 65 years of history to be seen. Cameron, our new boat friend and fellow diner, told us that during the NASCAR season, with the race at Dover, he had stopped by for a bite and was told there was to be a private party but he could sit at the bar until they arrived. As he enjoyed his crabs and beer, a fellow took a seat next to him and struck up a conversation. Unbeknownst to him, it was the late, great Dale Earnhardt and they had a wonderful talk about fishing. Seems Sambo’s is a favorite stop for the NASCAR folks when in the area, as well as a destination for many from across this nation and around the world.

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Back to the food. Of course, we came for crabs, and we did some major picking. They were meaty, sweet and seasoned well (personally, I like a little more Old Bay and a little less salt, but that is certainly a personal preference). Along with the swimmers, you’ll find other delights from the sea, from appetizer to entrée. Their fried clams were terrific, as were the shrimp jammers. In season, you’ll find sandwiches of soft shell crabs, rockfish or oysters. Craig’s Seafood Salad offers up 5 large shrimp and lump crab meat on a bed of tossed salad and Dottie’s Crab Imperial Platter will certainly fill you up, with an English Muffin piled high and baked ‘til golden along with a side of Hush Puppies and choice of salad or fries. Other platters offered are flounder, rockfish, scallops and crab cakes. Coming from the Steam Pot you’ll find crabs, of course, as well as clams, shrimp, oysters or Dungeness crab clusters. Should you be a landlubber, there are no worries here as Sambo’s will cook you up a cheeseburger, chicken wings or Delmonico steak to perfection. I know I saw a plate of honey dipt fried chicken go by and almost jumped ship from my pile of crabs. You can even get a pizza which, as Elva says, ‘is nothing fancy, but it’s good and people get it for dessert. Can you believe that?’ Being a tavern, there is a full bar available – a cold beer goes so well with a plate of steaming crabs – and you can find a nice place to lay your head nearby so riding won’t be an issue. Be advised, you must be over 21 to enter and Sambo’s is CASH ONLY. When you have that hankering for crabs, point your wheels to Delaware for a little throw back experience and some mighty fine picking. ,


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OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTER IOU S A MERICA hauNtEd LighthouSES SOMETHING WILL LEAVE THE LIGHT ON FOR YA! Anyone my age should remember the television show The Adventures of Superman. Although it did become a ‘kids” show, the first season was a bit more film noir and the second episode to air was superb… and got me looking for the great haunted lighthouses of the United States. In this episode the old lighthouse on Moose Island had been shut down since Jimmy’s uncle, Captain Horn, had drowned during a bad storm twenty years ago. However, many from the mainland believed that they had seen its light shining in the night sky. As far as Jimmy knew, Aunt Louisa, Chris, and Alice were the only people living there. Jimmy visits his family, there is trouble – ghost trouble with Jimmy hearing a woman crying for help again and again that she’s drowning and he calls Clark Kent for help. Capes, Coast Guard, and mystery ensue. YouTube it – it was quite good for 1952 Superman.

I brought up The Adventures of Superman as on their cross country tour, Rathjen and Kamil rode along the southern shore of Lake Erie and stopped by the beautiful stone lighthouse at Fairport Harbor. The lighthouse itself, wonderfully crafted and built from Berea Sandstone, is worth the stop, especially with Creamery’s superb ice cream across the street, but it’s the ghost that haunts the light that is really different. It’s a cat. Back when the lighthouse first started operations, Captain Joseph Babcock was the Head Keeper. He and his wife and children resided on the second floor of what is now the museum. Babcock’s wife, Mary, became bedridden at one point. Her husband got her cats as company. Sentinel, a gray cat found in the basement of the lighthouse, was said to be her favorite.

The kitty became her constant companion. The large gray cat named Sentinel was a familiar sight in the brand-new lighthouse, but he would soon become a part of its lore. You see, when Mary finally passed away, her kitty disappeared. Years later, curator Pam Brent lived upstairs in what had been the Babcock’s living quarters. She reported seeing the ghost of a gray cat. She said “It would skitter across the floor near the kitchen like it was playing. I would catch glimpses of it from time to time. Then one evening I felt its presence when it jumped on the bed. I felt its weight pressing on me.”

Time passed and the day came when Trustees decided to put in air conditioning in the Museum. A worker installing the new system wiggled his way into a tight dark crawl space in the basement. He looked to see what his head was resting on and discovered the mummified remains of the gray cat. This story has been featured on Discovery and The Animal Planet... But, there are many lighthouses that are reputed to be haunted. They seem to attract restless spirits – especially in Maine. It must be that Stephen King thing. Here are some others in and around the northeast for your poltergeist pursuing pleasure. Maybe you can be the next Ghostfacers!

Owls Head Light • Owls Head, Maine This classic light, open year-round, provides lovely views of Penobscot Bay. The pretty little lighthouse and keeper’s residence are part of the park but not accessible, though that doesn’t prevent a ghost from trespassing. The 3-year-old daughter of previous keepers once awakened her parents and announced, “Fog’s rolling in! Time to put the foghorn on!” They discovered she had an “imaginary friend” who resembled an old sea captain. Current residents recognize his footprints in the snow and welcome his services - polished brass and frugally lowered thermostats.

Point Lookout Light • Scotland, Maryland Aficionados of the paranormal consider this the most haunted lighthouse in America. Male and female apparitions materialize and then vanish. Doors open and close without visible reason. People hear voices, footsteps, even snoring, but no one is there. It was once a hospital and a prison camp for Confederate soldiers existed here during the Civil War. In response to these reports, parapsychologist Dr. Hans Holzer and a team of other experts descended on the Point Lookout Lighthouse and managed to record 24 different voices during their investigation. The voices can be heard singing, talking, and even swearing. A voice saying “Fire if they get too close to you” can be clearly heard in their recordings, thought to be related to the Confederate soldiers that were held prisoner on the island. When a stinking smell emanated from a room inside the lighthouse, Holzer was convinced that it was the spirits of tormented souls who couldn’t leave. Soon after he uttered this statement, the horrible smell dissipated.

Seguin Island Lighthouse • Bath, Maine This desolate lighthouse, which is Maine’s


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2020 tallest and second oldest, is the site of a gruesome story. A keeper who had recently married moved to the island 3 miles off the coast to tend the light with his wife. To help with his wife’s boredom in the winter, the keeper bought her a piano. It only came with the sheet music for one song. Unable to get new sheet music since the island was locked in ice, the wife played the same song over and over again, eventually driving the keeper insane. He took an ax to the piano, and then to his wife. Afterward he took his own life. The ghost of the keeper has been spotted in the house, and sometimes on a quiet night you can hear the tinkling of a piano. Sorry, but you can’t really ride to this one as the island is only accessible via boat or helicopter. I said it was desolate.

Boon Island Lighthouse • Boon Island, Maine One of the spookiest—and most tragic—tale surrounding the Boon Island Lighthouse, which has seen numerous shipwrecks and other tragedies, revolves around a woman named Kathleen. In the mid-1800s, Kathleen became the blushing bride of the lighthouse keeper at Boon Island. She relocated to the lighthouse with her new husband shortly after their wedding for what she surely thought would be happily ever after. The keeper drowned after he fell from the rocks while trying to tie up the island’s boat. Kathleen pulled him from the water and dragged him all the way back to the lighthouse, where she left his lifeless body at the bottom of the staircase. She proceeded to tend to the light for five days without eating or sleeping, and when locals found her on the sixth day, she was sitting on the bottom step holding her husband’s dead body. She was taken away to be cared for by the locals, but she died shortly thereafter.

Page 13 The spirit of Kathleen Bright has allegedly been seen by scores of local fishermen and lighthouse visitors, who have reported a white apparition of a sad young woman. Many have also reported hearing a terrible wail coming from the lighthouse at night and during stormy weather. A Coast Guard lighthouse keeper stated that his dog chased a mysterious invisible entity all around the small island. Another two lighthouse keepers were shaken up when they saw the light come on inside the lighthouse when they were both outside and no one else was on the island.

Block Island S.E. Lighthouse • Block Island, Rhode Island Not only is this lighthouse haunted, but also the entire 7,000-acre island is said to be haunted as well. Built in 1874 in the ornate Victorian style of the time, the Southeast Light helped ships clear the dangerous shoals and ledges of the “stumbling block” of the New England coast. Legend has it that in the 1900s a keeper murdered his wife by pushing her down the steps. Her spirit never left her home. It is said she harasses men only—by shaking them, lifting their beds, or even locking them in a closet or out of rooms. Many have reported sightings of ghosts elsewhere on the island. Phantom pirate ships have been spotted and so have the spirits of the dead who could not be buried until the ground thawed at the end of winter. Haunted or not, most lighthouses serve double duty; from the ocean, spotting one can help navigate and save lives, from land, they always offer a grand view of the sea. And, as we have just read, many times they offer a glimpse in to Mysterious America. O’Life out! ,


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OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS

WE’RE OUTTA HER E RidER’S iNN 792 MENTOR AVE, PAINESVILLE, OH 44077 440-354-8200 • www.ridersinn.com ROOMS STARTING AT $90/NIGHT INCLUDING BREAKFAST When seeking lodging for our first night on the road during our cross-country tour, we came upon the Rider’s Inn in Painesville, Ohio. Our first thought, of course, was that they would take kindly to motorcyclists and we had found a kindred spirit in this age-old inn. Well, that turned out to be the case but not due to the name of the inn. To continue, we’ll give you a bit of a history lesson… Joseph Rider opened Rider’s Inn in 1812. Over the years, the tavern expanded, providing fine accommodations and food for travelers in northeastern Ohio. During the early 1800s, Rider’s Inn served as a stop for stagecoaches traveling between Buffalo, New York and Cleveland, Ohio. During the 1840s and 1850s, the tavern’s owners also provided runaway slaves, who were traveling along the Underground Railroad, with a safe haven. Ohio was the home of many safe houses for African Americans, as runaway slaves could not truly gain their freedom unless they left the United States of America entirely. Many runaways fled to Canada, seeking freedom. The Rider family operated the inn until 1902. George Randall eventually purchased the inn, expanding it and opening a speakeasy during Prohibition. The Lutz

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads brothers acquired the inn in 1940, and they operated it until 1979. The inn was next acquired by Elaine Crane, husband Ted Sherman and her mother, Elizabeth Roemisch, who completely refurbished the establishment into the beautiful 10-room country inn that it is today, reopening it in 1989. Having survived for over 200 years, you would naturally think that there might be a few folks who have ‘stuck around’, and you’d be right. Mistress Suzanne, Joseph Rider’s third wife, died suddenly just weeks after their marriage. Owner Elaine Crane advised us that there have been many folks who have felt, or more directly, seen Suzanne walking these halls. Others have seen a ghostly figure in a Revolutionary War-era uniform. If you are a fan of the supernatural, this just might be the place for you. While we did not encounter any previous occupants, we did find Rider’s Inn to be a most comfortable and welcoming bed and breakfast inn. We arrived late afternoon and, after being shown to our very large and beautiful Bridal Suite room, we wandered around a bit before taking a seat on the outdoor patio to enjoy an adult beverage and relax. Not too long after that, Elaine came out to chat and give us some history on the inn. To say that Elaine is an engaging and entertaining woman is an understatement. She regaled us with many tales of


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2020

her years as innkeeper, from moderating a domestic dispute to stopping a burglar in her pajamas. Dinner was had sitting outdoors on the patio. In addition, they have a large indoor restaurant as well as seating in the pub. The menu is very impressive and varied, but we settled on an order of Rider’s Prime Rib (one of their most-ordered dishes) and one of their specials – Country Fried Walleye. Both were abundant, cooked to perfection and most delicious. We lingered a while over coffee and dessert before retiring to our room. The Bridal Suite, as mentioned, was large and tastefully decorated, with a four-poster queen bed and cozy sitting area. To quote Michaleen Flynn from the Quiet Man, ‘A man would have to be a sprinter to catch his wife in a bed like that.’ There is wi-fi throughout the inn and our quarters had a wide-screen television as well. Come morning, we came down to the pub where breakfast was being served. Elaine had a pot of Finnish coffee brewing – just what the doctor ordered for a long day on the road – and served up a scrumptious dish of eggs, bacon and fruit. Rider’s Inn is a perfect stop for the weary rider heading east or west. Each room has a private bath and comes with breakfast. The pub is a perfect place to unwind after a day’s ride and the restaurant is top-notch. Elaine will welcome you with a smile, a tale and a warm heart. Enjoy. ,

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OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS

Frontline Eurosports Presents

B IG CITY GETAWAY aiR MobiLitY CoMMaNd MuSEuM DOVER AIR FORCE BASE 1301 HERITAGE RD, DE 19902 (302) 677-5938 • AMCMUSEUM.ORG How big is big when it comes to aircraft? Well, they come in all sizes, but when you want to talk big you will be talking the C-5 Galaxy. This jet has been in service for over 50 years now and still is the Air Force’s go-to lift when big things need to get from here to there in a hurry.

Occasionally you can see these big birds coming in at Stewart and other bases, but follow us this month as we get up close to the Galaxy… and it is not all that far, far away. Welcome to the Air Mobility Command Museum at Dover Air Force Base – a Big City Getaway if ever there was! This museum is different in many ways, first being that it is dedicated to military airlift and air refueling aircraft and the men and women who flew and maintained them. There is none like it in the world. It has the largest and most complete collection of fully restored U.S. military cargo and tanker aircraft in the Eastern United States and is located about 1/2 mile south of Dover Air Force Base in Delaware. While we were down Delaware way on our summertime ‘crab run’ our host Alan reminded us about the museum. It was hard to forget the base was there as serious air-power comes in and out all day and night. We were there early the next day.

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind This airbase has some personal ties to my family as my Uncle was posted here back in the early 60s, and I remember traveling down with my mother and grandmother to visit several times. Somewhere there is a picture of a 4year-old me in a tiny pedal Air Force car with Air Force PJs. (TMI – I know). The Air Base has its history as well… Dover was originally built as a civilian airport that was modified for military use as a result of Public Law 812, which funded local governments to build airports in response to the outbreak of hostilities in Europe and Asia in

1939-40. Ten days after the attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941, the War Department employed its emergency powers to lease Dover Municipal Airfield for the entirety of World War II. The airfield would serve primarily as a base for anti-submarine operations, fighter pilot training, and aerial rocket testing and development. In September 1946, after the end of


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Page 17 the war, Dover Army Airfield was placed in an “inactive” status. Following the creation of the U.S. Air Force as a separate service entity, the Airfield became Dover Air Force Base on January 13, 1948. Beginning in 1952, the primary mission of DAFB focused on military airlift due to the strategic location of the base on the Eastern Seaboard, and the base was designated as a permanent U.S. Air Force installation on December 22, 1953. It now serves many functions, but sadly is usually the first U.S. stop for returning servicemen and women killed in action. During these weird times, the indoor displays were closed, but the outdoor static display was open and free. We rode in with my head snapping to the left and right constantly. Hey, it’s an Air Force Base. Parking at the entrance to the outdoor display we were stunned at what we saw ahead. Yes, there was plenty of aircraft – but parked at the top of the lot was a cherry Chevy BelAir – made modern where it counts. Why was I not surprised that the owner was R.W. Moore, the crew chief of the C-5 that dominates a good part of the field. This is not just any C-5 – for all the Galaxys that have flown for the military, this is the first to be put into a museum and for good reason. This giant jet, with 90014 painted on its tail, made history in 1974 when it became the only aircraft ever to drop and ignite a live, Minuteman intercontinental ballistic missile. During the SALT talks. That got the Kremlin’s attention. Strolling around the big Galaxy was just the beginning of a good long hour or so walking around some of the most historic aircraft to have been flown by the U.S. Air Force. Some really stood out to us – the C-60 Loadstar as did the two Flying Boxcars on hand. The F-106 Delta Dart looked like it sounds and was one of the fastest fighter craft of its time. Another aircraft of note was the C-141A Starlifter that was the first of the fleet and had its maiden voyage 50 years to the day of the Wright Brothers’ first flight. Now that is very cool! Around many of the aircraft were benches to take a rest and the benches were named for the craft of which they sat in front. And a number of these had some seasoned warriors who very possibly flew these warbirds back in the day. The Air Mobility Command Museum has much more to see, but we were limited to the outdoor displays and that worked for us this day and simply means a return visit in the near future. The Air Mobility Command Museum is open Thursday – Saturday from 10 a.m.–3 p.m. with free admission and parking. Come see why the Air Force is so cool - remember…they have the Stargate! ,


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OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS Continued from Page 3

On the road, the further from home you are the more regular folks will stop and talk. This is when the pleasing personality and smiles come in. Even if you are having a bad day – mechanical issues of some kind or the weather gods have turned against you, remember that these people coming up to your machine talking and asking questions are just being friendly. So, suck it up and smile – you are motorcycling to them at this point. Being approachable, easy to talk to and pleasant will leave a more positive way of thinking of the next riders they meet. To many non-riders, all motorcyclists are the same. After all these years some in our family still do not know the difference between a cruiser and sportbike or an adventure machine. The Blue Knights could walk into a store with them and a few will tell us how the Hell’s Angels suddenly came into a Walmart and bought ten cartloads of toys and then ask why a gang would do that? This is the time to educate them. Open their eyes and change their thinking on today’s motorcyclists. It is up to all of us to be ambassadors for motorcycling. Putting forth a positive and happy vibe to those we meet or ride by goes a long way in how the public sees us. Smile, wave, be cheerful, be happy. You are riding – that should be enough reason. , Continued from Page 5 oN thE MaRK Despite the sometimes checkered history of musicians and motorcycles, the two are inextricably linked. Motorcycles inspire artistry, whether it is the making of the machines or the making of music that includes or alludes to them. I know people for whom riding without music would be torture. Hunter S. Thompson, himself the author of the greatest motorcycle review ever called “Song of the Sausage Creature,” had this to say: “Music has always been a matter of Energy to me, a question of Fuel…On some nights I still believe that a car with the gas needle on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio.” I don’t think Hunter would have a problem replacing “car” in that quote with “motorcycle.” I sure don’t.

iNduStRY iNFobitES

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involves the sale of around 7,750 parts to California residents that allegedly did not have legal exemptions to California’s anti-tampering laws for emission controls. Comoto sold these parts in California with the disclaimer that they were being sold for off-road and race use only, not for use on public roads. This has been a commonly accepted practice among aftermarket retailers attempting to conform with CARB certification, placing the responsibility on the consumer to make sure their vehicle is compliant with CARB regulations. But that didn’t stop CARB from taking legal action against Comoto anyway, accusing the company of selling them for both highway and off-road use. Rather than fighting it out in court, CARB and Comoto agreed to a $1.93 million settlement, which will fund various air pollution funds and projects in California. While a hefty sum indeed, it’s still far less than the potential $180 million fine if Comoto been found guilty in court and slapped with the maximum fine.

PHILIPPINES REQUIRE MOTORCYCLE PASSENGERS TO CARRY PPE SHIELDS Over the past four months of covid-19 quarantine restrictions, the Philippine government has outlawed carrying passengers on a motorcycle, and although they now permit pillion (passenger) riding only for couples who live in the same household and share the same bed at night, all backriders are now required by law to carry a clear plastic shield or barrier in between the pillion and the rider as Personal Protective Equipment (PPE). Pasig City mayor, Vico Sotto, has sided with the riders and their plight, but says that for now, all we can do is follow guidelines, because there is no other choice. “It is true that this shield is dangerous. But for now, we have no other choice if we want to carry pillions as this is required by the government.”,

We gladly accept press releases for Industy Infobites. Please email text + images to editor@backroadsusa.com


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2020

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PRODUCT REVIEWS

BEADRIDER • AFFORDABLE ALL-DAY RIDING COMFORT When we received the BeadRider a number of years ago, I was not exactly thrilled about testing it. For me it had an odd, almost ‘old man’ vibe to it. But, to give them a fair shake I decided to put it on my GS for our rally in West Virginia that spring. My thought was that if it did not work for me - I’d simply take it off, pack it away and ride on leather. Boy, was I wrong about this product. Here we are years later and the BeadRider is still a permanent part of my riding gear. Not only do I use it on my day-to-day ride, but it has been stolen off my GS to be used on other machines – most notably I put it on the Gold Wing I borrowed from Honda for our cross-country journey. For me it offers not only a greater level of butt-comfort but the great ability to be far more maneuverable on the saddle – an advantage while sliding around the bike – especially on more technical roadways. BeadRider allows my butt’s ample pressure points to be more evenly distributed and allows air to flow between them and the saddle, keeping you dryer and cooler. If you really want proof of the airflow, just use a set of BeadRiders on a cool day, and it won’t take long to convince you that cold air is flowing beneath you. For me this is the one tiny negative for the BeadRider - during the winter - but, for three seasons of the year it is a superb benefit. The BeadRider comes in two versions – the Classic made from wooden beads and the Ultimate that is constructed with reinforced ceramic composite beads that are designed to keep you cooler, drier and more comfortable in even the harshest conditions. They have BeadRider pads for both rider and passenger and prices start from $25.95. For a small investment I bet that you too will become a BeadRider apostle. Log onto www.bearider.com for more information and to order. ~ Brian Rathjen

PEEPS • THE WORD’S GREATEST GLASSES CLEANER Whether you wear prescription glasses or just sun glasses while riding – keeping them clean is imperative. 20,000 optometrists trust this simple tool to clean glasses, and now it’s available to consumers too. It removes dust, abrasive particles, oil, and fingerprints instead of smearing like cloths and sprays. This patented invisible carbon formula is safe on lenses and used by NASA on the Space Station and by the Military. Peeps is a compact eyeglass cleaner that uses Carbon Molecular Technology to perfectly clean glasses in seconds. Each Peeps device contains carbon microfiber pads – which softly remove pesky dirt and dust at a microscopic level, leaving your lenses stunningly clear. The invisible carbon technology also repels dirt and oil, protecting your glasses in the future. This isn’t just a surface clean – you’re really cleaning the glass itself, but without the hassle thanks to the carbon element. When the clever folks behind Peeps discovered that this technology was available to the public, they spent years developing a consumer-friendly version that anyone could use. We have them on the bikes, in the office and around the house as well. You can find them at various stores and online at carbonklean.com.

Sign up for The Backroads Report and enjoy your Saturday morning coffee with some fun news • backroadsusa.com


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OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS

JaNiNE’S FRoStEE 149 EaSt StREEt, waRE, Ma • 413-967-7950 janinesfrostee.com aNd FiNd thEM oN FaCEbooK opEN Mid-MaRCh thRu CoLuMbuS daY We were taking part in Tony’s Track Day being held at Palmer Motorsports in Palmer, MA. If one wanted to stay close to the track, lodging options were limited besides camping at the track (CAMP being a 4-letter word in my vocabulary). Even more limited were the nearby dining options, especially during pandemic dining restrictions. When we checked in to our motel, many other riders were already there, most looking as if they had been to this rodeo before. We asked around and they mentioned something about an outdoor stand about 5 miles away. By the time we were settled in and ready to eat, that option had passed. The next day, we remembered what they had said and made our way to Janine’s Frostee in Ware, MA for dessert. It was a nice evening ride and, pulling up to the semi-full lot, we scored a premo spot – very photo-worthy. From the looks of it, Janine’s had a well-established clientele and was the perfect place to be on a hot summer’s night. Indeed, Janine’s Frostee is a Massachusetts institution, having been established in 1956 by Raymond and Lydia Millier. Twenty years later Henry J. and Germaine Morrissette decided to try their hand at a food career and, along with their five children, took ownership of Ware’s Janine’s Frostee. Having a good and loyal customer base, they started with a strong foundation. Almost 45 years later, they are still satisfying folks who come from all around for their delicious food and ice cream. Over the years, the menu grew, as did the building and events. Son Roger took the reigns in 2005 and added an Annual Car Show as well as other charitable events and fun stuff for the folks at ‘The Frostee.’ During their normal seven-month season, they feature live music as well as bi-monthly Polish Night with music and delicious Polish food.


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Page 21 Having come for a little after-dinner sweet, we certainly were not prepared to see their extensive menu with everything from hot dogs and burgers to salads, grinders, soups and seafood. Had I known there was a place so close serving whole belly clams, homemade clam or lobster fritters and lobster rolls, I would have gladly waited for a picnic bench at such a well-established hot spot. Here’s your head’s up: if you are going to Palmer Motorsports for a Tony’s Track Day, be sure to dine at Janine’s, it looks like it will be well worth it.

That said, we perused the VERY extensive flavor listing of the mostly Gifford’s Ice Cream and a few from other local creameries such as Blake’s in New Hampshire and Bliss in Attleboro, MA. I have long been a fan of Gifford’s with their inventive creations and small-batch flavors. On our visit there were nearly 50 flavors from which to choose, making it almost impossible to decide. How’s this for a sample: Dough Dough Bird – lite peanut butter ice cream with cookie + brownie dough, Unicorn Delight! – vanilla + ultraviolet bubblegum ice cream with rainbow confetti, Graham Central Station – graham cracker ice cream with graham cracker swirl + chocolate covered crisp, Bear Claw – dark chocolate ice cream swirled with caramel + chocolate coated cashews, and Cinnamon Granola Crunch – cinnamon granola clusters mixed into buttery ice cream churned with brown sugar cinnamon. How’s a girl to decide?! (Fun fact: the combination of a question mark and exclamation point is referred to as an interrobang) But decide I did, splurging with a double scoop, one of Gifford’s Aroma Joe’s PB Mocha (cold brew coffee + mocha ice cream with peanut butter + chocolate chip) and one of Bliss’ Monkey Around (banana ice cream swirled with fudge + peanut butter cups). Yes, I do love my peanut butter. Both delicious and fully satisfying after a long, hot day on the track. Janine’s will serve you up ice cream in cup or cone, sundaes, frappes, floats, freezes, malts, smoothies and, of course, frostees. They also offer soft serve and frozen yogurt. If you find yourself in Ware (and just where is Ware? Pretty much in the center of Massachusetts) make a point of searching out Janine’s Frostee. It will be worth your while. , 1269 DOLSONTOWN RD MIDDLETOWN NY 10940

845-343-2552 • WWW.CYCLEMOTIONINC.COM Cycle Motion is your provider of motorcycles, ATVs, scooters, and utility vehicles by Kawasaki, Suzuki, Polaris, yamaha and Can-Am. With a large parts department, qualified service technicians and a full shop of parts and accessories, we're here to meet all your power sport needs. For every rider - on or off road, whether they like doing it in the dirt, carving the twisties, or cruising the backroads, we have their weapon of choice.


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eeping with the socially distant aspect of this riding season we thought we’d toss out something a bit different this year for our annual Chasing the Colors edition and bring you four different strips of pavement, or not, in four different locales that encompass the Backroads region. These roads - some long, some short - have a great mix of riding, scenery and at the right time of the year a plethora of colors… Why ride the bigger and more popular roads full of Peepers; those sad little people that have evolved from the Sunday Drives of your parent’s era? They are slow, have little driving savvy, are dangerous and slow, do erratic things, and drive slowly. Best to stay clear of Peepers. Come ride with us! We’ll have more fun – and try to keep the motorcycles more than six feet apart.

OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS

Buttermilk Falls, and if you seek it out the beautiful Blue Hole. Peekamoose will bring you down to Route 28A where you will make a right and follow around the Ashokan Reservoir before crossing over the dam and then east on Route 28. Bear left onto Ohayo Road – a twisty and tight mountain that will drop right into the center of the artsy town of Woodstock with plenty of shops and restaurants and ice cream – yeah! Leaving eastward from Woodstock we’ll cross over one of the neatest and unknown to many roads in these mountains – Platte Clove Road. There are a few places to pull over and take in the amazing vibrance of the colorful leaves that fill the incredibly steep valley, which creates this wondrous part of the mountains. This route then heads west along Route 23A and then south to Phoenicia along 214. This town also has several dining choices and if you wish to break this loop up into two days you can just head west on Route 28 a few miles past the turn for Big Indian and Oliverea and overnight at the Starlite Motel. Michelle is the greatest hostess and her place is affordable, very comfortable, and perfect for small groups of riders looking to put together a great couple of days of riding. There is an ample back area where you can BBQ if you wish, but there are also restaurants a short ride away. We promise you will love The Starlite!

New York – Peekamoose / Big Indian Loop Indeed these roads ride into the pages of Backroads now and again – for great reasons. Riding along the highest peaks in these ancient mountains offer superb views, slightly technical roads (RE: pay attention), and more than a few waterfalls too. The full-day 180-mile loop starts and ends in New Paltz, New York, and begins by riding over the northern end of the Shawangunk Mountains and then runs along the Rondout Reservoir before crossing over the road called Peekamoose. Along this road you’ll find the falls named for the mountains, Back on our route, we’ll head south over Big Indian – recently paved and a blast to ride. We’ll pass down into Frost Valley and a castle. Yes, a castle. Julius Forstmann – founder of the Forstmann Woolen Company – broke ground on what would become known as the Forstmann Castle in 1916. For forty years this majestic property on 2,200 acres of the Catskill Mountains would serve as the summer home for the Forstmann family. On Christmas Eve, 1956, Mr. Forstmann and YMCA executives agreed on terms that would allow the YMCA to purchase the property and make it the new home of Camp Wawayanda, which would eventually become the Frost Valley YMCA. The purchase included the main house – 40 rooms, 7 fireplaces, and 6 baths – all fully furnished – as well as a dairy farm with a dozen buildings, and 22 Holsteins, 14 heifers, and a bull. We thought about this humble home for Backroads Central, but the bull was no longer in the story and that crashed the deal. The road alongside the Rondout Creek is as beautiful as any in the northeast. Back near the reservoir, we’ll scoot along some tinier backroads to Ellenville and then up and over the Shawangunks again, this time heading east over the peaks on Route 52. Look for the falls in and around the area and make time to stop at the grand overlook with its 100mile view to the south and


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west. Seek out the Backroads sticker along the rail – left there by an old-time reader. Free Backroads stickers to those who send us an image of themselves with it – if you can find it! Down into Walker Valley and then north along the eastern edge of the Shawangunks and back to New Paltz along the old Albany Post Road where this route all began. We hope you had a great day… or two! GPX download: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/c20vbk

Pennsylvania - Route 666 “196 turns in 34 miles” Some 92 years ago the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania began to improve on old gravel byways and half created roads to expand commerce throughout the region. In the western part of the state, in the deep and secluded Allegheny Forest – the largest forest east of the Mississippi - there is a road that has an historic

sign for a missionary named David Zeisberger, who lived amongst the Delaware Indians and was the first white man to pass through this primeval forest back in 1767. In fact, the official name of this superb piece of pavement with the hellish number is David Zeisberger Highway, although riders in the region have nicknamed it The Beast! From a very Christian start, the roadmasters in PA went in the other direction when they designated this remote 34 miles – Route 666. You can ride this route from the east starting off Route 948 and wind your way to Route 62 in Hickory Township. Most of the route follows the natural flow of the land and water – in this case the Tionesta Creek – excellent trout fishing to be found here too. As the route winds west you can grab lunch just a mile or two south on PA 1003 at the Blue Jay Inn. Continuing west, if you have the hankering for browsing The Tall Oaks Store (The Shopkeeper) is a great stop to indulge yourself. All along the Triple-Six the trees and Creek offer a bevy of colors in the late fall. Who’d know that a road called The Beast could be so much fun.


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New Jersey – The Skylands Loop This route is one we frequent when the need to get out of the office and onto the road overwhelms us. Lucky for us we live in an area with some of the best riding in New Jersey; a great mix of hills, and elevation changes, great brooks, streams, and tiny hamlets connected by great old roads that ramble through old farms and older forests. In Stillwater, New Jersey you will find Garris General Store. Part Post Office, part restaurant, part ice cream parlor, owner Dean has given new life to the old place although it still has that old northwest New Jersey character to it. It is from here that we will do our 65-mile loop. The Garris’ has breakfast and lunch and ice cream – so choose when you want to eat or, do what we do, have breakfast at the start, and ice cream at the end. Save the food for dinner! This route heads quickly up Millbrook Road, an absolutely wonderful and semi-technical snake of pavement that heads west. We’ll zig-zag a bit till we ride into the Walpack Valley – as pristine as it gets in this part of the busy northeast. Here, if you like, there is a well-groomed gravel road that will bring you to Buttermilk Falls (A popular cascade name). If gravel is not in your travels then continue north along NPS 615 and then right down into Walpack Center – part being reborn, part ghost town. You’ll cross over the Flat Brook on a bridge that is just a bit special as it is a Pratt pony

OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS Follow this road to Route 206 then head south and follow the signs to the left and up to Sunrise Mountain. Most of this is a tight one-way road and it, too, offers vistas to the horizon. It is well worth riding to the top and taking it all in. You might want to take note that you are on a part of the Appalachian Trail right now as well. Follow the route back down and to County Road 565 – Deckertown Road - and make a right to County Road 519 – what we locals call The Confused Squirrel. Okay, maybe not as snazzy as a “Dragon”, but we have our reasons for such a moniker. 519 will bring you through Beemerville, past Space Farm (quirky and fun) and then back across Route 206. We’ll ride along a few of the “Lost Roads” of the region - Old Stage Coach Road, through the Historic Double Bridges

(we do not know why they are historic), Parson and Junction Roads and back south around Swartswood Lake. This glacial lake, at over 550 acres, is the third largest in New Jersey – and the most beautiful. The park itself is 105 years old and the first state park in New Jersey as well. This will lead us back to Stillwater and the Garris General Store for some excellent Nasto’s ice cream. Welcome to our world! GPX download: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/mnhc4t

The Dirty Backroads of Vermont yeah, makes me wanna take a backroad Makes me wanna take the long way home Put a little gravel in my travel ~ Rodney Atkins

truss bridge built back in 1889 by the Groton Bridge & Manufacturing Co. Just a bit further on, past the old graveyard, we’ll meet up with the waterfall section of the route and continue up in elevation to Tillman’s Ravine. Once again we think we should park the bikes and take a bit of a hike as this ravine, formed millions of years ago, has not changed much since before Europeans arrived. It is said the Lenape natives would gather here as the sound of the waterfall and the tight ravine could prevent others from hearing them speak. The ravine is named after Nicolas Tillman and his wife Lydia who are buried in the cemetery we just passed.

During our Summer Squeeze, this past August, our friend and Backroads Rally alumni Paul Donoghue put together the bulk of the rally’s route, bringing riders from Vermont to the Adirondacks and back through the Catskills. Paul has a seasoned grasp of roads and challenges and he made sure that the Vermont part of one ride had a good deal of well-maintained gravel roads. We have always had a great time using the West Dover region, located in the southern part of the state, as a base-camp for further Green Mountain


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2020

state adventures. Inspired by Paul’s gravely route and adding a few more dirty miles of our own, we came up with an excellent Chasing the Colors route. There is still plenty of pavement but relax in the knowledge that most of these gravel roads you will encounter on this loop can be handled (in the dry) by any machine with street tires - with a competent rider. It also helps to remember that it is along these old tree-shrouded lanes you will see parts of Vermont that so many others miss sticking to the main routes. First, we’ll swing south, then north and east in the general direction of New Hampshire, before vectoring westward over the Green Mountain National Forest on an unnamed forest road then onto Brooklyn Road – some gravel that Vermont at least named.

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Paved Route 7 will bring us south and there are plenty of restaurant choices in the town of Manchester. One of our favorite shops to peruse is Rablogan Castle of Scotland where you can find everything Scottish - from tartans to haggis and all in between because if it’s not Scottish it’s crap. After lunch, we’ll head back east on Kelly Strand Road back toward West Dover. We hope to put a little gravel in your travel and follow the real Vermont backroads. GPX download: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/ixj3du


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OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS

W

Oakley, Kansas to Silverthorne, Colorado

e had hoped the Kansas winds would drop off a bit overnight, but much to our chagrin mis-sich-kon-nem, the Shawnee name for the Winds of the Plains, went at us with gusto and the ďŹ rst few hours west were ridden at a heavy lean into the breeze. As we crossed into Colorado the winds began to abate and by the time we rode into Colorado Springs all was beautiful in Colorful Colorado.


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We flew into the Air Force Academy then found a superb lunch downtown before attempting to ride to NORAD’s Cheyenne Mountain facility. We flagged down a Sgt. on a Harley to ask how far we could go; not very. We were not allowed in, even if we had StarGate patches. Saddened and disappointed by the Air Force not cooperating with a motorcycle magazine, we decided just to get high. Hey, it’s Colorado. We rode to Pikes Peak. Clocking in at a magnificent 14,115 feet, Pikes Peak is one of the 53 mountains in Colorado that achieves a height of 14,000 feet+, offering it further bragging rights as one of the top 100 mountains in the United States. But it is the only one with a paved road to the top. $15 entry fee is well worth it as the road to the top, or at least as far as you could go this day – just three miles from the peak - is an amazing romp of hairpins, sweepers, and vistas that go on forever.

OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS

north and west along some stunning mountain roads that wound through the still snow-capped peaks. We rode past the Continental Divide at Hoosier Pass and then down into Silvethorne. We made a friend during Zoom Business GetTogethers that our mutual riding buddy Alan had put together daily during the covid fiasco. Kelley, also a rider, with an AirBnB close to the ski slopes had invited us to overnight with her. Excellent. It was great to meet a friend after just ‘virtually’ seeing her on the laptop. A tasty meal, a wonderful home, and the hot tub was a great end to a long and fun-filled day.

Silverthorne, Colorado to Ouray, Colorado

Atop the mountain named after Zebulon Pike, near 14,000 feet, both Shira and I had the hard fact hit us that our lungs were a little on the beat up side and we both were having issues with the O2, or lack thereof. Shira was especially woozy and she began a slow descent. I stayed atop for a bit to capture her ride down digitally and then spotted a Big Horn Sheep right above where I had placed the Wing. The ride down was a true blast as I had most of the road to myself and made safe and quick passes when needed. I met Shira down at one of the cafés and shops and we continued down the rest of ‘The Peak’ and then rode

Today would be about the ride. For sure there was plenty to see and friends to meet on this journey so far, but the state of Colorado is the most beautiful state in the Union. This thought is heavily backed up by our friend Paul Zanini, who knows these things. This day our 300+ backroads saunter, across numerous Rockies’ passes, would pretty much confirm this. Today was just about stitching together some of the best Centennial State roads we could while still heading in the general direction of the Pacific Ocean. Leaving Silverthorne we rode up into the mountains along Route 91, which was very exciting indeed and brought both Shira and me to Climax. The town. Things only got higher from there as we made a stop in Leadville, which at 10,152 feet, is the highest unincorporated town in the United States – giving it the nickname the Two-Mile High City. Yester-


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day we rode through Alma, which, at 10, 578 feet, is the highest incorporated town in the U.S. Route 82 brought us back up, way back up, across the snow-capped peaks along the highest paved pass in a state full of high paved passes. At 12,095 feet, Independence Pass is at the center of one of the most spectacular stretches of road in the state. At the top, we parked and took a slow hike out to the viewing area that offered an eagle’s view of the beautiful valleys, the steep peaks, and extensive

aspen forests. Stunning. It would get even better. But first, we had to get in and through Aspen. Far too haughty for our tastes, it was full of maskwearing glove-toting, socially-distant people who were already socially distant before covid even came around. Not for us. But as fun as Route 82 was, Route 133 was the bomb! This 70-mile route crosses over the McClure Pass and through the Gunnison National Forest. Riding past the town of Redstone we spotted 40 or so… small ovens? Indeed they were. These coke ovens in Redstone were built in 1899 by Colorado Fuel and Iron to burn impurities out of coal

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from Colorado’s Coal Basin. This created something called “coking coal,” which could be used in steel mills to create steel, much of which was used for building railroads. Upon the completion of the original construction, 249 ovens were heated to a sweltering 2,400 degrees Fahrenheit. This became the largest coking operation in the state of Colorado, said to account for 10% of the workers in the Centennial State during the turn of the century. The scale of coke production at this plant was huge, producing around 6 million tons of coke annually during peak performance.


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What is left now sits quietly along the side of Route 133; willing to tell their story to a rider passing by if they take notice and investigate. Remounting the bikes, we got back into the swing of things along Route 133. This road is so enjoyable to ride. Great sight distancing, decent pavement, and Colorado actually put the passing zones in the middle of the sweepers. The state seemed to be encouraging us to pass the snail-paced Prius and Fiestas. My kind of state.

OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS In the town of Hotchkiss, calling itself “The Friendliest Town Around”, we stopped to see and were rewarded with some seriously great milkshakes. Coffee for her and Salted Caramel and Vanilla for moi. They passed the Shira test. But, just like on Late Night TV – wait, wait there’s more. This ride and the day were far from over. Route 92 ran up along the Curecanti Forest. Here the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, 48 miles long and 2,722 feet deep at one point, has some of the steepest cliffs, oldest rock, and craggiest spires in North America. With two million years to work, the Gunnison River, along with the forces of weathering, has sculpted this vertical wilderness of rock, water, and sky. We could not help but stop, park, and go for a hike along the edge of the deep canyon. Breathtaking is an understatement. At Montrose, we headed south on Route 550. The plan was to overnight in Silverton, but the canyon town of Ouray grabbed our attention so we took a room and went exploring this old Colorado town before the sunlight completely disappeared behind the sheer rock wall to the west.

Ouray, Colorado to Hanksville, Utah After a light breakfast at a local café & bakery al fresco-style, we mounted up and hit the Million Dollar Highway south towards Durango. US 555 is consistently rated as one of the top ten scenic highways in the United States by riders from near and far as the 70-mile Million Dollar Highway twists and turns through the mountains, with hairpins, lack of guard rails and some incredible views that tempt your eyes away from the road at every vista as it crosses over Red Mountain Pass. But the big question we had: why is it called the Mil-


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lion Dollar Highway? That’s the burning question everyone asks, but there is no right answer. Some say that gold-bearing gravel worth a million dollars was used to pave the road in the mid-twentieth century; others argue that it cost a million dollars a mile to build; and Ouray locals joke that you couldn’t pay them a million silver dollars to drive the treacherous highway in winter. Whatever the answer, the truth is that the mountain views from the highway are worth a million bucks. In Durango we headed west on Route 160 to the town of Mancos where we would meet of friend Gary Isaac and his wife Kolondra for lunch. We had ridden with Gary in Iceland and have been FaceBook buddies since. Later we followed Gary’s lead as he wound us up and through the Canyon of the Ancients, a stunning end of Colorado and the backdoor into Utah. This magnificent park got its name for the many Pueblo ruins that it preserved by

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becoming a national monument. We crossed into the Beehive state unannounced with only a cattle grate and the GPS to tell us we were no longer in Colorado. We stopped for some hydration at a small fuel station and said our goodbyes to our friends and then continued west through southern Utah. Where Colorado was magnificent - in a rocky, green forestry and snow-


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OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS He then recommended a motel across the road (that he owned BTW) and, parked for the night, we walked over to the Outlaw’s Roost, owned by a friendly couple named Katie and Doug. Newly opened, they served up some serious Mexican food and, even better, had a perfectly tuned Yamaha guitar… Sorry Honda, we know you lent us the bikes for this cross-country adventure, but Yamaha makes great guitars! I got to play a bit for the gathering crowd of… well, okay it was Shira and she was checking FaceBook the entire time. Still, she is my groupie. Doug, an ex-motocross racer, and Katie are looking to open a camp/ getaway for kids - male and female - to learn to ride and experience the great dirt riding for which this region is known. We will keep you up to date as they move forward and, when in Hanksville, stop by, grab some food and, if you play, give them a great tune – they encourage it.

Hanksville, Utah to Mesquite, Nevada

capped way – Utah was the polar opposite. The high desert quickly took over with giant bare rocks, huge mesas, and buttes. At one point the rock walls closed in on the road and some of the rock looked as if they were the artistic sand bottles while others seemed piled atop each other - ignoring the law of gravity and physics. It was as if the gods were playing a giant game of Jenga. We crossed another river of note – the Colorado - and then sped into the only town for… well, it seemed forever.

This would be National Park Day as we would ride through a number of the natural wonders for which this part of Utah is famous. But, before we headed west, we needed to take a look at the gas station we filled up at the night before. Hollow Mountain Gas & Grocery is a fuel station that is unlike any other on the planet. Here, after clearing

Hanksville. Where the heck is Hanksville? Fuel was found at the most unique fuel station we have ever seen (but, more on that tomorrow) and walking into the station I spotted a sign that was most welcome in this day after the topsy-turvy, geographic and political manner in which people were still dealing with covid-19. MASKS NOT REQUIRED! Although the way different states, even different counties, dealt with the pandemic was interesting to see - this was the first time we’d see such an open display of freedom of choice. I commented on this to the owner and I got a couple of choice words from him on how the folks in Hanksville were not stupid and how the town had dealt with the virus in a smart, concise, and forward-thinking manner.

rock to make way for the pumps and tanks, they decided to just use explosives to ‘hollow’ out the side of the cliff and build from the inside out. Inside it looks like any other general store – until you see the real interior rock. Definitely one for O’Life. Hanksville is surely a silent gem in this part of Utah – riding out we rode past Carl’s Crazy Critters, a wild garden of outrageous animals and critters all made from recycled cars and machinery parts. Worth the stop for sure. While Carl’s Critters were surely entertaining, it was Mother Nature’s handiwork that would wow us today and the show started just to the west as we rode through Capital Reef Park. We wondered why it had such an oceany name here in the high Utah desert… Well, the word ‘reef’ in the park’s name is used because it refers to a rocky land barrier, the Waterpocket Fold, located within Capitol Reef Na-


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tional Park which is a 65 million-year-old warp in the crust of the earth. The sandstone walls are amazing as is the oasis called Freemont (named after the river that flows through it and allows many trees, plants, and life to thrive). For thousands of years, First People lived along this river and the region, and they have left an impressive legacy – literally etched in stone. Many years ago, Shira and I rode along Route 24 through this park and stopped by a small sign that simply said “petroglyphs”. What we spotted on the high rock face of the cliff – where no carvings should have ever been created, were glyphs of bighorn sheep, deer, dogs, birds, snakes, and lizards. But it was the rock art of people that really caught my eye.

To me, these looked more other-worldly than what you’d expect to see. Something that might appear on Ancient Aliens. If fact, one of my images did just a few years later. Today there is a well-built wooden walkway along the cliffs that allow for great and up-close viewing of so many of these petroglyphs. Whatever it is they depict, they are truly amazing.

Just down the road we stopped at the Visitor’s Center and found Magnolia’s; a food truck that offered some seriously wonderful tacos and a breakfast sandwich with eggs, sausage, and goat cheese that might have been the best breakfast on the trip. Here, at this time of the years, the light breezes pushed the huge cottonwood tree above Magnolia’s, called the Mail Tree, to shed its catkins, which carry its seeds looking like fluffy cotton that are distributed by the wind.

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To us, it looked like snow coming down. We’d never seen anything like it. Heading south the road rose and fell and began to offer more than the straight roads that we had begun to get used to again. We rode across the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, with its wondrous cliffs and formations, and to Bryce Canyon with its impressive ‘hoo-doos’ rising to the sky like craggy crimson fingers. It was all so magnificent, but we might have saved the best for last as, the night before while routing this day’s trek, Shira insisted on Route 9 which ran from Mount Carmel to Virgin, Utah. This road would lead us right through Zion National Park – and it was, well, pick your adjective – stellar, stunning, stupendous.


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OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS

Route 739 • Dingmans Ferry, PA • 570.828.1920

next mile began thousands of acres of juniper, ponderosa and bristlecone pines, ash, oak, and cottonwood. The transformation of the land through which we were riding was stark and amazing. Utah is amazing… but it was getting a bit warmer. A few days earlier it was in the mid-40s in the Rockies – now riding along towards the border the Wing claimed 103 degrees.

OUTDOOR SEATING AVAILABLE

WE ARE

BACK!

All that and then some. Truly one of the brightest stars of the United States National Parks. For two days we had ridden along sandstone, mesas, buttes, and hoo-doos, but as we rode out of Zion it all …vanished. Like the gods had drawn a line and said enough! One mile it was like the Forbidden Zone from Planet of the Apes and the


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By that evening we had cut south and through a bit of Arizona before riding into Nevada. It was interesting watching the Honda Gold Wing’s GPS adjusted clock switch times back and forth. Mountain to Arizona Standard and then Nevada Pacific Daylight Time - all made a bit more interesting as this was the last day of spring. Tomorrow would start the summer of 2020. We both hoped that it would be a better season and one of rebirth for the United States and the planet. And, doing our best to start it off we rode into Mesquite, Nevada, and the Holiday Inn – where the pool was the first thing on our long ‘bucket list’.

Mesquite, Nevada to Joshua Tree, CA For sure the last part of the previous day’s ride was on the good side of Hades as far as the temperature went, but this day we knew that it would be just a bit more intense. We’d be heading down through the center of the Mojave. This sprawling rain-shadow desert is the driest and hottest region in North America. I had heard this desert called this term a few times and usually just nodded my head as if I knew what a rain-shadow desert was. So here we go: A rain-shadow is a dry area on the leeward side of a mountainous area. The mountains block the passage of rain-producing weather systems and cast a “shadow” of dryness behind them. Thank you, Wikipedia. I had a plan to making the ride somewhat interesting, as the region through which we would pass was truly unforgiving, yet there is always some fun asphalt to be found if one just puts some effort into the search. We had to take a bit of I-15 south from Mesquite and we vectored onto a small two-lane beauty designated Route 167. It was a superb start to the day as it followed behind the ridge circling Lake Mead with a hearty sweeping gusto and a display of rock that ran a plethora of shades from the crimson side of God’s palette.

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This also allowed us to go around Las Vegas, which is not our cup of tea and there is a reason Stephen King had Randall Flagg setting up shop there. We stopped at one point and were followed in by a nice silver Corvette. The driver, Jim, was an ex-racer (is everyone but me an ex-racer?) and parttime geologist. He explained the rocks and the split land that travels two inches a year in opposite directions and pointed out the ancient volcano whose shadow we had parked in. We were grateful he stopped to chat bikes and ended up giving us a science lesson. It made the brownish and red rugged ruddiness feel to the land a bit more special. This is truly an ancient place.


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We gassed up at the only place that had gas for 50 miles, happy to pay the five bucks a gallon…. Okay, that is a lie. Not happy at all but as we had just had a geology lesson, this class was all about economics. Supply. Demand. That is how it works. The saving grace was some decent pre-packaged sandwiches and the fact that this fuel stop oasis lies on Historic Route 66. Just a week earlier we had started the real westward haul of this trip out of Chicago at the start of this famed Mother Road and it was excellent to be rolling on the other side of the continent on the very same highway. We spent the next two nights at our friend Vas and Yael’s new home, outside Joshua Tree. It was the perfect way to begin to power down this long cross-country haul.

Joshua Tree to San Diego Today would be our final run west to the Pacific, but first, we ran back east to return to Joshua Tree, a place that we simply can’t visit enough. This

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slid us into a great little road we had stumbled upon decades ago called Box Canyon, which rides just like it sounds and, if we were in a ‘60s western TV show, there surely would have been an ambush of some sorts; but this day we simply rode up and around the Salton Sea. What was once believed to be the next great recreation area in southern California turned into one of the biggest ecological disasters in the nation’s history. This closed drainage basin receives only inflows, and each year the Salton Sea has become saltier and saltier. This has made it harder and harder for the Sea’s incredible biodiversity of land and water life, including a plethora of


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migrating bird species, to survive. The smell alone is enough to keep you out of this ‘sea’ but the mud at the bottom contains enough arsenic and selenium to qualify for disposal in a dump reserved for the most toxic of society’s trash. Chromium, zinc, lead, and pesticides, including DDT, are also in the lake bottom. What a mess. But as we rode west and across the Anza-Borrego Desert and then up and over the mountains to the town of Julian, where apples rule, life, and the environment, became much better. Lunch was found and apple pie was had and by later afternoon we rolled up to the Lafayette Hotel & Swim Club, just north of downtown San Diego. The next few days would be spent visiting friends and family. We overnighted in Wrightwood before returning Honda’s motorcycles. The Great Covid Break Out of 2020 had been completed. With all that was happening this June – pandemic panic, losing loved ones, social unrest, and some parts of our society – on both sides – feeling like they were under the gun, we never knew what to expect each time we crossed a state’s border. To us, the great division in our nation was not all that black and white. Like everything, the issues were a plethora of colors, shades, and hues. The ‘wear masks’ or ‘not wear masks’ back and forth seemed more prevalent and polarizing than anything else.

For us, we hoped the nation would open up. We guess time will tell on that. As we traveled, we met nothing but smiling, good and interesting people. It is easy and well to be color-blind while riding a motorcycle. The one thing we have known for years is that most people are good and everyone wants the same thing - to be happy. The United States is still here, still stunning and still one of the most diverse countries to explore. We hope you do. ,


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OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS

An Adventure in

Patagonia words: Thomas Soukup

Punta Arenas: January 2018: We are sitting at the restaurant of our 5 star hotel, each one of us remembering the past two and a half weeks of riding. We are nine riders from different parts of the world who took part in a tour organized by MOTOAVENTURA, that’s the name of the Chilean motorcycle touring company. They have 18 years of experience organizing these types of tours. MOTOAVENTURA is a BMW dealership and an official BMW Motorrad Travel Partner. We start our journey in Osorno, homebase of Sonia and Roberto, the company owners. Yesterday evening, our guide, Thomas, explained the itinerary and rules of the Patagonia adventure that will last 17 days. Thomas is German, but has been living in Chile for 7 years. On the road to Bariloche, today’s destination, we drive through the Lake District, along Puyehue Lake. We reach the Cardenal Antonio Samoré border crossing to Argentina, the first border of 5 in total during the whole journey.

We drive along Nahuel Huapi Lake. This is the Lake District of Argentina. The influence of Swiss immigrants can be seen in the whole town of Bariloche, especially in the chocolate businesses and houses. The next day we ride the “circuito chico” along the Nahuel Huapi Lake. We also admire the view from Cerro Campanario, a mountain 1000m high. Two days later, we reach the famous Carretera Austral, an important road that connects the north with the south of Chile and a highlight of this tour. We will ride more than 800 km on this road. Now we enter the native forest of cold rain, where the landscape changes dramatically. The breathtaking views make it hard to concentrate on riding: thousands of colors and shapes, glaciers, waterfalls, araucarias, rivers, and lakes of an intense turquoise color. We spend the night in Puyuhuapi at the end of a fjord. Near the town of Cochrane, we leave the Carretera Austral. We cross the Roballos pass border crossing and enter the Argentinian pampa. For all of us, the Pampa gives us an image of immensity and endless land of solitude. Here, towns can be 350km apart from each other. Sometimes, we may find a sign in the middle of the road pointing to an “estancia”, a small oasis in the middle of this dry desert. The owners of Estancia La Angostura do wonders with dinner, a big surprise in the middle of the Pampa. The legendary Route 40 was a real challenge for us all, especially the gravel parts. The wind is present at moments with tremendous force. Gauchos, while taking care of their big herds of sheep, wave at us. A hundred years separate the horse from the motorcycle. Our guide, Thomas, is always showing us how


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to ride our bikes in such harsh conditions. As we arrive in El Calafate, the hardest part of the tour is over. At least that is what Thomas says. We feel relieved knowing we always have a support truck following us with our luggage and closing the group. A new highlight awaits: Perito Moreno Glacier, part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. This glacier is 6km wide and 30m high, with a length of 60km. We can see a piece of the glacier, as big as a house, breaking and falling into the water resonating like thunder. There is no time to waste when riding in Torres del Paine National Park. In theory, one can easily spend a week here trekking and doing other activities. We will only ride our bikes. The Torres are always in our sight. Two days later we arrive at the southernmost destination of our adventure: Ushuaia, “The End of the World”. To get here is a breath of fresh air after the challenging riding of the last days. We take the obligatory photo at the entrance of the city and, the next day, another photo next to the legendary “Ruta 3” sign. It is now that we believe what Thomas said at the beginning of this adventure: “this one is an experience you will remember forever.” , Motoaventura Chile has been a tour operator in the world of motorcycle travellers for 20 years. With a fleet of around 80 motorcycles, mainly from the BMW brand, as well as Honda, Yamaha and Triumph mtorcycles available for rental. With their shops for equipment and accessories and motorcycle workshops in Osorno and Santiago de Chile, Motoaventura is the largest company on the South American continent. Through their cooperation with the BMW brand, they have also received the BMW Official Travel Partner award and their guides trained as certified instructors. Motoaventura organizes motorcycle tours on almost all continents of the world. They offer guided motorcycle tours on the South American continent. For their full touring schedule and availability including much more information, visit www.motoaventura.cl or email Sonia at sonia@motoaventura.cl

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OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS

words + image:s Brian Rathjen We have always been ‘spur of the moment’ kids, but the recent insanity (yes, no real baseball in July) had upped our impulsivity game a lot. If we have the inkling, time, and motorcycles – we’re gone! So, when watching the Food Network one July evening, an episode served up some blue crabs, done in the classic Chesapeake-style. The show had both Shira and my mouths watering. “We need to do a crab run,” Shira flatly stated. I agreed. Two minutes later I was Facetime’n my buddy Alan who resides down in Delaware, just west of the bay, (Delaware Bay). He had been telling me during a few of the Zoom meetings he was facilitating during the spring with entrepreneurs and business people about a local-to-him seafood joint called Sambo’s that, according to Alan, served up the best ‘jimmies’ around. Two minutes after that we had a sincere invitation to c’mon down from Alan and Angela for the day after next. The bikes were fueled, a few days clothes pack and GPS routes down to, at that time, the First State of “DO NOT GO TO DELAWARE – Love Gov. Murphy!” were created. For this trip, Shira would take her trusty yellow bee-like V-Strom 650 XT and I would get a chance to spend some saddle-time on Honda’s new 2020 Africa Twin Adventure Sports ES – a DCT transmissioned bike that

Honda has built to raise the bar in the busy ADV-market. The route would swing us both in and, more importantly, back out of Delaware through the free-state of Pennsylvania. A two-week self-imposed quarantine, simply because we wanted some blue crabs, was a bit unacceptable to us and the thought of smugglin’ in from a coast once fraught with pirates had us raising our Jolly Roger. We always try to make every ride a bit more interesting than just going from Point A to Point B and everywhere you ride you surely will pass through some history, places of note, or just a spot that makes you stop and say…Wow! This day we rolled down through Sussex county in northwest Jersey and quickly into Warren county. For those not familiar with this part of the Garden State it is fairly rural with small towns interspersed with miles of farms, forests. The Kittatinny Ridge forms a strong backbone that, along with the Delaware River, separates New Jersey from the commonwealth of Pennsylvania. Unlike the bigger highway bridges that cross the river, many of the small town bridges will bring you to and from the Keystone state for free. In fact, the bridge at Belvidere is called the ‘Free Bridge’.

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Belvidere also is home to one of the most delicious eateries in the region – Thisilldous. Mike Moyer, long-time owner and longer time motorcycle rider, has been a friend for years and Thisilldous has never disappointed when it came to serving up tasty, delicious, and different plates. Today was no exception and although most of us have universally hated some of the rules put into effect during these times, we do dig the outdoor dining on a fine New Jersey day. We crossed over into PA and worked our way south, spinning up to the sharp ridge that mimics the other side of the Delaware River. During the riding of our August Tri-State Border Patrol story, I’d come across a Durham boat, in the hamlet with the same name. I made sure to spin by this to show Shira the boat in its native setting. These large wooden, flatbottomed, double-ended freight boats were used on many of the interior waterways of North America beginning in the middle of the eighteenth century and it was this type of boat that was Washington’s landing craft of choice on his famous Delaware Crossing. It seemed that, even if this ride was all about these beautiful swimmers, we would run into military history throughout our three days on the road. Further south we stopped to take in the view of the spillway for the dam

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at Nockamixon State Park, which was running full tilt after some recent and well-favored rains. As we headed towards the rounded border with Delaware, we passed through Valley Forge. It was here during the hard winter of 1777 that Washington’s army encamped. This was a ‘make or break’ winter for our fledgling nation as even though the General, with much help from Prussian General von Steuben, was able to bring his army up to snuff, still lost nearly 2,000 to malnutrition and freezing temperatures. Today it is a peaceful and great place through which to ride and let your mind drift back to this nation’s beginnings. Once we crossed down through the Brandywine region, which is a pleasure to ride, and into Delaware proper, we vectored towards Route 9 along the edge of the Delaware Bay. Why locals do not use this road is beyond me – but their loss was our gain and riding over the great bridge that spans the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal at Reedy Point offered up the most stunning view of this beautiful and very agricultural state. If you could remove the sprawl of Route 13 with its never-ending strip malls, the First State would be just farm and wetlands. The road was a great way to finish up an excellent day and by evening we slipped into our friend’s drive, parked the Africa Twin and the V-Strom and During this time, we remain OPEN for SERVICE and REPAIR. Please call/email for an appointment.

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OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS

after a quick change jumped into Alan’s car for a short ride back to the small town of Leipsic and the venerable restaurant known as Sambo’s Tavern. Saying that this tavern is a legend and iconic is an understatement. Since its opening by Samuel “Sambo” Burrows some 70 years ago, the tavern has been serving some delectable seafood and, especially, magnificent blue crabs that have been freshly steamed up (with a slightly different secret spicing) and served across a newspaper-covered table with a view of the Leipsic River. We were joined by fellow Zoomer Cameron and his wife Laurie and a few hours and a few dozen ‘callinectes sapidus’ later we all left happy and with

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the first of a few (I hope) crab nights for 2020 under our belts – literally. Alan and Ang’s home is very welcoming and is well over 100 years old – so it has been a home for more than a century and homes like this feel very comfortable indeed. Taffy the Barbet made it just that much cozy. We had made plans the next day with Cameron to spend a bit of time on his boat – Chasing Limes – so we left Alan to handle some work and to meet up with us later and went to find breakfast at a small bakery called La Baguette in Dover. Usually, pastries are not my first choice as a Breakfast of Champions but these folks crushed us with flavors, textures, and a deliciousness that was on a level I had not experienced – even in France! Holy moly! Fully sugared and caffeinated I spied the old cemetery directly across Governor’s Ave at the Old Presbyterian Church. As I went to get back on the Africa Twin, I spotted the Historical Marker. I almost always read these when I can and this one had me giving Shira the crooked ‘come hither’ finger. This church and graveyard are certainly a part of US history and certainly Delaware’s. Col. John Haslet, Commander of the Delaware Regiment, who


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2020

was killed during the Battle of Princeton in 1777; John M Clayton, U. S. Secretary of State; and Governors Jacob Stout Charles Polk and J. Caleb Boggs. The 2nd State Constitutional Convention chaired by John Dickinson and the 3rd State Constitutional Convention in 1831 were held here. The church and chapel became part of the Delaware State Museum in 1949. The cemetery is the property of the Presbyterian Church of Dover. The property was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1972. An amazing part of history that we found by chance sitting down for quiche. Although you might not think it, this part of the Delmar peninsula has some extremely pleasant riding to be found. We routed off the main through roads and looked for anything that had a squiggly feel to it. The roads we traversed were perfectly paved and maintained and void of traffic. In a short time, we rolled down to Rolphs Wharf Marina on the Chester River. If there ever was a We’re Outta Here! – Rolphs is this place. We have ridden by this road dozens of times and did not know what lay a

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half-mile down the pavement. Their marina is full service, but small enough to offer actual personal service and Dave is the man. We spied a small sand beach, a built-in pool, and the required tikitype bar – The Sand Bar which is an old boat that has been re-purposed by Neptune and friends into a super on-beach bar with tables and a good selection of bar food. Right up the hill, overlooking the river, is The River Inn that has comfortable rooms and a wonderful and historic feel that only comes from a 200-year-old Chesapeake mansion. Owners Sandy and Chip are happy and friendly people and we were happy to grab the last room she had that night. By this time our friends had shown up and Captain Cameron and First Mate Laurie readied the boat as Shira, Alan, and I tried not to get in the way. Ahh, Other People’s Boats! What a superb day, made better by a Chesapeake Bay lunch and a great layover at Conquest Beach, a small strip of sand near one of the parks. Cameron threw in the anchors and we threw ourselves in the river. We cruised back in just before supper time and sunset at Rolphs Wharf


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OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS

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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2020 would be hard to top anywhere on the planet. To add to the flair of the night Shira had been tracking the ISS, the International Space Station, for about an hour – from Australia to our horizon and, right on time, the ISS put on a 6.4-minute show at 4.8 miles per second. Love NASA! Morning on the porch that has seen nearly seventy-three thousand of them had a graceful feeling – and Friday the 13th – the big and very attention-deprived cat added to that feeling for us. We chatted with Sandy and had one too many cups of coffee and then packed up – but we will be back to The River Inn again for sure. Before heading north we vectored to the U.S. Air Force Base just outside of Dover. You might have wondered… where do old airplanes go? The lucky ones go to the Air Mobility Command Museum, the only museum dedicated to airlift and air refueling history. Even in this summer of the BigC, as they could not open the entire indoor displays, the military had their static display of serious air machines on display and open to the public – for free. It was as cool as a stimulus check. Well, to me it was as I am an aviation Geek, with a capital G! As we rode up toward the display, I had a good long straight that ran along one of the runways – the perfect place to test the Africa Twin’s wheelie control, or what happens when it is turned off. The Air Force is not the only thing that can take off, you know. This museum is absolutely phenomenal. An amazing display of wonderful and historic airplanes. I had a perpetual smile for the entire walk and when this is over and they open the doors there will be a return visit for sure.

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It was time to skedaddle so we aimed the Suzuki and Honda in a basic northwest trajectory and lit the fuse. A few hours later we were enjoying ice cream in New Hope and an hour or so later a cup of coffee back home with the bikes slowly cooling, ticking softly in the setting sun. We love spur of the moment journeys, don’t you? Shira has a great saying right now…Do not let the fear of something stop you from doing anything. She is a smart woman, my wife.

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OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS

IS A LITHIUM BATTERY IN YOUR FUTURE? It was so nice riding after a long winter hibernation and forced covid-19 isolation. Thing is, that super bug can’t get you when you’re riding. When the wheels are spinning the pandemic can take a hike. You can’t even see it in your rearview. Sadly, all those people wearing surgical masks have nothing to do but shop for TP and drugs. Are we looking at a future where every face is hidden by a mini tent tarp? When my wife and I moved to Newburyport I lost my beloved garage. My 2006 BMW K1200R lost its home. Luckily, a new storage facility went up in Newbury just a few clicks away: the sign on its window was encouraging: “Motorcycle Storage”. A Ducati Scrambler sat outside with a “For Sale” sign. It belonged to the owner, so I felt comfy with renting a 10x10. But the bad news about self-storage is this: no power outlet. Why? Because the state is worried someone might want to live in one. Actually, I once saw a man living in one in San Diego, where they allow for outlets. C’mon, leave the man alone. How does he hurt anyone? Away went my man cave; no more life-saving battery tender. Soon enough, my battery died. I was used to using a tender all year round so that was a first. Unaware of the age of my battery, I opted to buy a lithium version after some research. There is some negative publicity surrounding lithium. Most people think they catch fire easily. That may be true of lithium-ION batteries, but those you can buy for powersports vehicles (e.g., your motorcycle) are known as lithium-IRON-PHOSPHATE, (“LFP” or “LiFePO4”) which is proven to be a lot more chemically stable than lithium-ion. Battery tech is complex and I don’t profess to be a scholar from BatteryUniversity.com (yes, a real site).


BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2020 It’s true that lithium-iron costs more than your average Joe lead-acid battery: about $140 compared to $95 (from the Batteries Plus store). I got the Hyper Sport 14-BS Lithium Powersport Battery (14AH, 250 Cranking Amps); it was less than its 16-BS richer brother (18AH, 360 Cranking Amps) retailing for $180. Pick it up in its box and you will have to peek inside to make sure it’s there. The thing only weighs a bit above a pound. My old lead-acid weighs about 6 pounds. You can mount it upside down or sideways. On my K1200, where the battery housing is above the gas tank, it’s nice to lose all that top-heaviness. Lithium is said to last a lot longer; it claims “to pay for itself” by enduring better than 2000 cycles, compared to 300 cycles for lead-acid. Cranking power is more reliable since once a standard lead-acid battery drops its charge between 50-70%, your bike won’t crank. You’ll be stranded. For lithium, the battery would have to be discharged fully to 100% for it to RIP. Old standby lead-acid technology has been around for 150 years. Some sources say that lead-acid works better under “parasitic” conditions: those guys you see who must mount signal blockers, radar, back-up radar, CB, GPS, back-up GPS, satellite phone, microwave and oven timers… for that kind of sucking you’ll want to stick with lead-acid.

Page 47 Another downside to lithium is that they allegedly don’t work as well in freezing temps. But I once had cranking problems with my dual sport in the Catskills one frosty morning. It wouldn’t turn over until the sun came up. In freezing temps with lithium, the battery needs to be “woken up” by switching on the ignition and letting the headlamp do the warm-up. The biggest benefit is saved for last. Lithium hardly losses its mojo. This is measured by a battery’s relative self-discharge rate. A parked motorcycle is never a very happy one, least happy is when it contains a lead-acid battery over the winter unplugged from life-support. Leadacid will discharge one percent per day, under the best of conditions. Compare that to lithium’s self-discharge rate of 10 percent per year. Lithium is good news for bikes parked in storage lockers especially over a winter. You need only to disconnect the negative terminal. If the bike is parked for say 6 months, then it’s advised to give it a charge using a lithium-supported charger ($33). Higher cost, yes, but when you factor in its lighter weight, longer endurance, more reliable cranks and much lower discharge rate, what’s not to love? ~ Victor Cruz


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OCTOBER 2020 • BACKROADS

The Law Office of Paul G. Gargiulo Presents

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival RAISE YOUR HANDS Fifty-two. Not a huge number, but significant when you consider that is the number of bones in both of your hands; and they are not particularly large nor strong bones either. Operating your hands are a series of muscles, tendons, ligaments, and nerves all working in a marvelous symphony to allow you to do all the things we generally take for granted. Like typing this article or grasping and twisting a throttle or smoothly operating a clutch. Did someone say guitar? The prehensile hands of primates evolved from the mobile hands of semiarboreal tree shrews that lived about 60 million years ago. This development has been accompanied by important changes in the brain and the relocation of the eyes to the front of the face, together allowing the muscle control and stereoscopic vision necessary for controlled grasping. This grasping, also known as power grip, is supplemented by the precision grip between the thumb and the distal finger pads made possible by the opposable thumbs. Hominidae (great apes including humans) acquired an erect bipedal posture about 3.6 million years ago, which freed the hands from the task of locomotion and paved the way for the precision and range of motion in human hands. Functional analyses of the features unique to the hand of modern humans have shown that they are consistent with the stresses and requirements associated with the effective use of paleolithic stone tool and the eventual creation of the motorcycle. For the most part, the opposable thumb was a big thing. We don’t have a lock on this as some other animals that have opposable thumbs include gorillas, chimpanzees, orangutans, and other variants of apes. Indeed, certain frogs, koalas, pandas, possums and opossums, and many birds have an opposable digit of some sort. Many dinosaurs had opposable digits as well; although no dinosaurs ever rode a Ducati or HarleyDavidson. Speaking of our venerated motorcycles… We are always a bit taken back when we see riders zipping along the local roads, riding with, more or less, real gear…but barehanded? Yikes! Common sense will tell us that even the youngest child, when falling, will extend their arms and put out their hands to stop the fall. Just tripping, while walking down the street, can cause some nasty results. At best a bad bruise or scrape, at worst broken bones. A serious hand injury after a motorcycle accident can cause significant problems with daily life and can be life-changing. Lose the ability to simply grasp or hold objects and that will affect you in every way. From simple day-to-day tasks… playing a guitar or piano, to holding your grandchild and the ability to ride your bike. Let’s take a sobering look at how vulnerable your hands really are…

Fractures: Broken bones are unfortunately common after a rider is thrown from their bike, especially when you thrust your hands out to break your fall. While minor fractures

can be treated with splints or casts, severe breaks may require surgery or even result in the amputation of one or more fingers.

Dislocated joints: If a rider’s hands remain on the handlebars while their body flies off the seat, the joints in the fingers may become dislocated, causing severe pain and increasing the risk of arthritis later in life.

Ligament damage: The tissues connecting the muscles and bones of the hands can easily be overextended in an accident, causing sprains or even tears in the ligaments. These injuries may need immobilization or surgery and can result in permanent loss of motion or hand strength. Then there is the road rash and the extended time that takes to heal.

Nerve Damage or Numbness: Trauma to the hands themselves can cause severe and, sometimes, irreversible damage to the nerves. Occasional hand numbness can occur as well when the hand nerves are irritated because they are compressed often. Two main nerves run through the palms and into the wrists and they are the nerves that support your weight when you are riding a bike. If you ride your bike consistently, the nerves are bound to get overworked and irritated, causing numb hands when riding a motorcycle. What to do? Our number one defense against hand injuries is a solid pair of gloves. The work gloves you picked up at Tractor Supply or Harbor Freight are not going to cut it. Today’s motorcycle gloves are made for riding. They are extremely well-made, most articulated and many are armored… and most are not cheap; but when considering how vulnerable our hands are they are a worthy investment. If you think it might be time to invest in a real pair of motorcycle gloves – raise your hands.




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