gaz Ma our le T cyc tor Mo
OCTOBER
2013 Volume 19 No. 10
ine
Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure
Capturing the Colors Autumn Riding of the Season Near and Far
Northwest Passage 2013 BMW F800GT Dirty Dancin’
W H A T ’ S
I N S I D E FEAT URES
MON THLY COLUMN S FREE WHEELIN’.................................................................................4
NORTHWEST PASSAGE ...............................................................26
WHATCHATHINKIN’..........................................................................6
SUNFLOWER MAZE AT A GLANCE..........................................40
POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE .................................................7
DIRTY DANCIN’ ...............................................................................41
ON THE MARK ..................................................................................8
FALL FOLIAGE FUN........................................................................52
THROTTLE BLIP.................................................................................9
PRODUCT SPOT L IGHTS
BACKLASH .......................................................................................10
CRUZTOOLS ROADTECH B1 FOR BMWS ................................51
INDUSTRY INFOBITES ...................................................................11
SPOT GEN3 TRACKER...................................................................51
THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD....................................................14 BIG CITY GETAWAY........................................................................15 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA ...............................................................17 GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN.........................................19 WE’RE OUTTA HERE .....................................................................22 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE .......................................................48 UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ..............................................45 MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE ...................................................47 Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil ~ Publishers Contributors: Jeff Bahr, Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Tony Lisanti, Dr. Seymour O’Life
BACKROADS • POB 317, Branchville NJ 07826 Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure
Phone 973.948.4176 • Fax 973.948.0823 • email editor@backroadsusa.com
web www.backroadsusa.com • For Advertising Sales Information: 973-948-4176 BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2013. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.
OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
Page 4
FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN
Why autumn is the best time to ride… Yes, the days are shorter and the “Dog Days” of Summer are behind us. The air has a crisp clean feel to it – now is the time to get out and really ride. A couple of warm layers start your morning ride and by a good mid-morning breakfast you’ll start to pack the fleece or sweater away as the temperatures warm to a comfortable high 70’s. For sure the days are getting shorter and quickly, but the sky is crystal blue and the leaves, that were so dark and green just a few weeks back, are now taking on bursts of different colors - reds, yellows and gold. It’s nature’s yearly finale. It is autumn and unfortunately winter comes right after; so now is really the time to get miles in. Curious to why the leaves do this each year? Well, according to the US Forest Service, “For years, scientists have worked to understand the changes that happen to trees and shrubs in the autumn. Although we don’t know all the details, we do know enough to explain the basics and help you to enjoy more fully Nature’s multicolored autumn farewell. Three factors influence autumn leaf color-leaf pigments, length of night, and weather, but not quite in the way we think. The timing of color change and leaf fall are primarily regulated by the calendar, that is, the increasing length of night. None of the other environmental influences-temperature, rainfall, food supply, and so on-are as unvarying as the steadily increasing length of night during autumn. As days grow shorter, and nights grow longer and cooler, biochemical processes in the leaf begin to paint the landscape with Nature’s autumn palette.” What we really know is that we love it and this time of the year. 2013 Trophy Whatever the distance, you’ll cover it in style and comfort; the generous, luxury seats and ergonomically designed riding position mean the miles melt away barely noticed.
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If you are like us you can see by the calendar that soon “Old Man Winter” will be riding in from north of Canada and, for some of us, the season will be over. But, for the next month or so, we will have some fine riding to be had in the Catskills and further north to the Adirondacks. West to the Alleghenies of Pennsylvania and if you head south you can stretch the riding season out for a few more weeks as Virginia, West Virginia and the Carolina’s are always a few weeks behind the lands to the north. A number of years back we planned a late season trip down to New Orleans. Leaving in late October we ran through some of the most stunning foliage riding down through Virginia, along the Blue Ridge Parkway and then west into Tennessee and south along the Natchez trace to the Crescent City. Along the way we actually rode from an early winter into prime autumn colors and eventually back into late summer. The return trip wasn’t as cheerful, but we had already stolen some great memories. The point is to get out and ride as much as you can now. Make the end of 2013 one that you will enjoy and remember for a long time. Personally I enjoy winter for about a day and then I am already planning on the next spring. The maps will come out, the internet utilized, routes will be created on Base Camp, rally plans created and calendars marked. The end of one season brings on the birth of yet another. This issue has a number of great rides, both in our original Rip & Ride format and downloadable GPS routings on your computer. There are so many great places to be seen and discovered and we can’t think of a better time to do this. So enjoy this special issue and we hope to see many of you on the road – where you should be.
OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
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With the proper bike and a little knowledge, I no longer panic when dirt and gravel come into the picture. I’ll always remember, so many years ago on our first trip to South Africa, our new friend Don McDaniels telling me to SHIRA KAMIL just look far ahead and stay evenly on the throttle when the inevitable dirt road would be in our path. Even on the top-heavy R1100R I felt more at ease The Down SiDe with his voice in my head. As the saying goes, there are two types of riders – those who have gone Why, then, can I follow this advice when it comes to off-road execution down and those who will. The probability of you and your motorcycle parting but have such a hard time on pavement at slow speeds? The same principals ways is near 100%, if you put any good saddle time into it. The most skilled, apply; look where you want to go, keep your head up and a steady throttle, proficient and careful rider will, at some point, either make a mistake or beand perhaps feather the rear brake for stability. As the Nike commercial says, come a victim of someone else’s. Sometimes it’s a combination of the two. just do it. I fall into the former category, and I’d like to believe that I’ve given my This was exactly what I was trying to do when the most recent gravity share of dents, dings and bruises to the gods of chaos, but I’m a realist. Do I storm hit while on our way to Maine this summer. I had just installed a beaufancy myself a good rider? A safe rider? An observant rider? Yes to all, but tiful set of Jesse luggage on the GS and was eager to take it on its maiden with major room for improvement on all fronts. voyage. I had put the day’s route together, which would bring us to our The bane to my skills is slow maneufriends the Carneys, and their new home in ntil the very last minute before I was pitched Massachusetts. While we wanted to make vers – u-turns, backing up, tight turns – and no matter how many times Brian reoff the bike to the right I thought I would be time, we did want to avoid any major highminds me of this and suggests that I pracable to ride it out. Even Brian said to me ways. I double-checked my route to make tice it more, I feel I’ll never ‘get it.’ Harsh sure there were no ‘hanging chads’ (turns later that he thought I was going to save it. to nowhere) or errant dirt roads so that all words, but I have to face my demons. A year or so ago, I took the ‘Ride Like would go smoothly. I suppose the short bit, a Pro’ course in central Jersey with Sergeants Bill Hughes and Allan Attanaabout a mile, of dirt I saw while in Connecticut made me think it would be sio. This is a most excellent course and I highly recommend EVERY rider an easy bit and dismissed it. take this at least once. While we did have rather inclement weather that day, I think that on any other given day this would have been true, but the torit certainly taught me the proper techniques for slow maneuvers and tight urential downpours of the previous few days had turned this gravel bit into a turns. Unfortunately, the lack of practice and use on my part sent this inforlittle bit of gnarliness (for me anyway). We came upon the end of pavement mation to a bottom drawer in my brain’s filing cabinet. The bad habits were and I remember saying to Brian on the intercom, ‘Guess this really is a Shira stronger than the good reinforcements – looking at the front tire while slowroute.’ It was fine until we crested a rise and saw the rutted downhill in front ing, paddle-walking the bike in u-turns, fearing that any stop that was not of us. Brian had just gotten to the bottom and was about to tell me to stay absolutely level and smooth would result in my dropping the bike – and took put and we’d find a way around this mess, but I had already begun my dehold in my head. cent. Over the last few years, and with the purchase of my F650 (it’s an 800 I assessed that the right side of the path was in a bit better shape and, pointdammit) GS, I have become more comfortable when the pavement ends. (Continued on Page 21)
W H ATC H AT H I N K I N ’
U
BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013
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P O S TC A R D S FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD
the Fun side oF impending Winter Last time I checked, we still live in a place where we do get a legitimate change of seasons and it’s entirely possible that before you know it we’ll (literally) be knee-deep in snow. Typically, here’s the part when I would go over the mundane things one must consider when hibernating your ride for the season. But there will be no discussion of fuel stabilizers, washing, waxing, oil changes, etc. at this time. I come not to shelter us from winter, but rather to celebrate the opportunity to get the bike ready for riding this spring while keeping you engaged and entertained while the machine is reasonably inert. Why so early? It’s time while you’re still riding your scoot to figure out what improvements you really need to look into during the off-season, even if its just some long overdue maintenance. The fun part is upgrading a component or two can really make a difference every time you ride, and there are a whole host of areas you can address. Here’s where the aftermarket can really help you optimize your bike’s performance, and as you’re enjoying the fall foliage and what is one of the best times of year to enjoy what two wheels can offer, pay close attention to how everything is functioning. Or rather, don’t just see how things are functioning; think about how you could make your motorcycle better (I know, your machine is perfect, as is mine. But we must keep an open mind). So as you relax at lunch during the middle of an excellent riding adventure, start from the pavement and work your way up. Tires: are they still holding air? Do they have any distinguishable tread patterns still remaining? Do they resemble our woodland friend the porcupine, thanks to an errant load of nails that was spilled in front of that new house they’re building down the street? Tires are expensive, but they are some of the most important components on our bikes and these days you really do get what you pay for. For those of the sport-touring persuasion, the grip just gets better and the mileage longer, and refitting new rubber can be one of the most cost-effective things you can do to give new life to an old ride. Just having tires with a proper profile after yours have flattened out over time can dramatically improve handling. I know, it probably sounds like I always have tires on the brain and I probably do. But hey, we couldn’t ride without them. Moving from the rubber, have ye brakes, dear sir or madam? One of the sneakiest things that can wear down to nothing without bothering to tell you are your brakes pads, and inspecting them is not always the easiest thing to do. It’s surprisingly common to get the impression that your pads are shot when they’re not, as they can be hard to see sitting as they are lodged in-between the disc and their backing plate. The best thing to do is if you’re starting with the OEM pads then check the owner’s manual (typically a small “book,” as opposed to a “device” with a screen). Most stock pads have clever indentations that disappear when the pads’ wear limit has been reached, and the manual will help you interpret the pads condition. The best way to check is to pull the caliper but that’s a hassle and I believe you can check them while in place if you proceed carefully, with a light, reading glasses, and a small portable electron microscope. If you need to replace your pads, once again you have the chance to seriously upgrade your bike as there are some fantastic aftermarket pads out there that have compounds tailored to the type of riding you typically do. Imagine the grip of new tires, with the smooth, powerful grab of new brake pads. Upgrades, man. The more loyal and seasoned your motorcycle, the more it deserves the really good stuff. What’s next? Why the suspension of course. I hate to be blunt, but have you put on a few pounds? Has your favorite passenger? That Malamute you trained to ride on the pillion? Have you started packing a big screen TV on the bike when you travel, to insure you can follow your stories in HD no matter where you roam? It’s entirely possible you could use a bit of tuning in the spring/shock department, and (Continued on Page 21)
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ON THE MARK MARK BYERS
you Can’t go home again Thomas Wolfe wrote “You Can’t Go Home Again.” Some people think it means that once you’ve become an adult, you can’t move back in with your parents. Some take it literally and think it refers to the fact that once you move, especially to the “big city,” going back to your rural home will never be the same. Personally, I think Wolfe was talking about time, not space. I think Wolfe was talking about not being able to relive our youth, but that doesn’t stop us from trying. You can’t go home again. That’s why a lot of us end up with old motorcycles. We see an old bike in a yard or a shed. Maybe it’s just like the one we had or a buddy had or the one on which we learned and suddenly, it’s as if we have no choice – no control. We’re compelled to stop by an inexplicable force of nature that wells up from our subconscious minds, constituted of memories of that motorcycle, that time, that place, and of those people. You can’t go home again, but you know of whom I speak. That motorcycle is inextricably linked to the people and psyche of that era. Your mom, who grudgingly accepted the motorcycle by extracting a promise that you’d “be careful,” even though “careful” in your bulletproof mind was only racing where cops didn’t lurk. Your dad, who made you earn at least a portion of the money, if not all of it. Your friends, who were envious unless they had bikes of their own and who then, if yours was better, feigned ambivalence. You can’t go home again, but there was a girl. There was always a girl. Even if you were a hopeless loser, there was a subject of unrequited adulation. If you were lucky, she liked you because bad boys rode motorcycles and wore leather jackets. She met you around the block from her house because her mother forbade her to ride. You’d hand her an ill-fitting helmet that she’d press over hair streaked with sun and she’d climb aboard, clad in capris and
a sweater. If you were athletic, she’d have on your letterman’s jacket as a symbol of her title to you. You can’t go home again, but you’d ride and she with you, clinging to your waist out of a mixture of love and fear and exhilaration. Stoplights were a frustrating delight, hindering your progress, but causing her to press even tighter against your back as willowy old forks dove toward the stop line. Streetlights would cast orange-yellow splashes of light on the asphalt rivers leading to the Dairy Queen, where what little money you had bought Cokes that might have been spiked from a small, silver flask. You sat there with her and admired the way the neon played across the paint and the chrome and you were the king of the world. You can’t go home again, but you can go in the garage and tear down an old bike like you did then. You can add hop-up parts like the ones you bought with money you saved by working at the grocery store and mowing lawns. You can bob fenders and saw off pipes and pull out baffles and put on clubman bars. You can strip it down to parade rest and put it back together, polishing as you go, smelling the wax and the rubber and the gas and the oil, every inhalation stirring olfactory memories of that time so long ago when “life was sweet, and oh so mellow.” You can’t go home again, but you can ply the electronic highways deep into the night. You can look for the bike that will take you back: the twowheeled time machine that will transport your body in space, but your soul in time to the place from where those visceral memories came. It doesn’t matter by what name it goes, be it “Bonnie” or “Duc” or “Dream” or simply a collection of initials. When you find it, you can strip and polish and buff and cut and modify until it resembles the one you remember. You can’t go home again, but if you’re really lucky, the girl with the letterman jacket will smile the smile that created the gentle lines at the corners of her eyes. She’ll put a helmet over hair streaked with gray and sit down behind you and cling to you with a mixture of love and fear and exhilaration while you ride to the Dairy Queen. You can’t go home again, but you can ride. You can still ride.
BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013
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THROT TLE BLIPS JEFF BAHR
adjustability? don’t make me laugh! Sometimes I wish that motorcycle manufacturers would study the automobile sector more closely. In that world of comparatively humdrum conveyances the car makers don’t always get things right, but at least they occasionally listen to the people that purchase their wares – particularly when it comes to comfort issues. This, apparently, is not the case in motorcycling. What do I base this broadside on? After some thirty years of road riding I have yet to encounter a machine with real adjustability engineered in from the start. Thirty years! And this despite motorcyclists’ continuing complaints and protests. Some examples? Sure. Brace for the fusillade. Too tall/ too short windshields; pegs set too low or high/ fore or aft; seats set too high for a normal human being’s frame; floorboards positioned oddly; brutally uncomfortable handlebars that appear to have been designed by the Marquis de sade himself. The list goes on. Sadly, these problems share something in common. In each instance there is no easy way to rectify any of them on most motorcycles. This strikes me as rather odd. Manufacturers can now give us 200 rearwheel horsepower on machines that weigh less than the total of two strapping men, yet they can’t seem to figure out something as rudimentary as onboard adjustability in the three main (seat/peg/handlebar) comfort areas. Call me a conspiracy theorist but I believe that this is being done purely by design. An entire cottage industry has sprung up around moving our pegs and bars a few inches up/down/fore/aft or fussing with the height of our shields, and it’s an unabashedly lucrative one at that. Here’s a prime example. My open class sport-tourer (god bless its crashed soul) featured handlebars that were set too far forward and too low for any real comfort (masochists and primates notwithstanding). Considering my OEM options (none) I ran to the aftermarket for relief.
After buying setbacks, risers and handlebars that would work together in concert, I still wasn’t out of the woods. Turns out my cables were now too short so they needed replacement. Bottom line? On a machine that was heralded by the press as being “possibly the new benchmark within this genre” it had cost over $1000 just to tweak the freakin’ bars! Some benchmark. And this doesn’t even touch on fit problems with that machine’s non-adjustable foot pegs or buffeting that occurred as a result of its windshield’s fixed position. After I remedied those deficiencies (via the aftermarket) I was hundreds of dollars more in the hole. This begs the question: Is this any way to design a modern motorcycle? To be fair, adjustability is available in varying degrees in some machines, most notably premium models manufactured in Europe. But these bikes represent some of the priciest examples currently available. Do we motorcyclists really have to bleed money in order to experience basic comfort while riding? I don’t believe so. In fact, I believe we should hold the manufacturers feet to the fire on this one. Need more convincing? Let’s flip it around. Can you imagine a car salesman telling a potential customer that the seat of a given model lacked any sort of adjustment? What do you suppose would happen next? My guess is you’d see that would-be customer spin his heels faster than Peggy Fleming and beat a hasty retreat to a manufacturer that featured units with this most basic feature. Motorcycle manufacturers will undoubtedly trace this to cost. Building adjustability into a motorcycle will add to its price - there’s simply no way around it. But let’s be real here; modifying motorcycles after the fact costs a heck of a lot more in the long run. The cash-sucking, jury-rigging of my old sport-tourer stands as proof positive of that. This one-size-fits-all approach to motorcycle design is archaic and just plain wrong. Not only does it force motorcyclists to live in unnecessary discomfort, it flies in the face of modern technological advances. Motorcycles are no longer crude bicycles with motors. They are highly sophisticated machines that have more in common with Macintosh than Schwinn. We’re thirteen years into the new millennia. I don’t think that a bit of adjustability is too much to ask for. Do you?
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OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
Page 10
BACKLASH What’s in a Name? Hey Brian, A few issues ago you mentioned that we have some of the best riding right here in our backyard, and that some our favorite roads deserve to be named, like some roads in other regions, such as the Tail of the Dragon. I couldn’t agree more. I have a few ideas. Route 44/55 from Highland to where it joins 209 in Kerhonkson could be called the Minnewaska Skyway, or perhaps the Hump ‘0 the Gunks. Rte. 218 from West Point to Cornwall might be the Hudson Ridge, or the Cornwall Corkscrew, or the West Point Wrap Around or Aloft the Hudson? And, how about everyone’s favorite, Rte. 97 from Port Jervis to the Sullivan county line? In honor or the late lamented Hawks Nest it could be the Flight of the Hawk, or Hawk of the Delaware. I invite all my fellow Backroads riders to chime in with their ideas. Maybe some sort of contest can be worked out?! Danny Herbst
Backroads 250+– better Late Than Never Hi Shira, Thank you very much for sending me the route. I took part of the route yesterday, which I combined with some roads I like and shortened part of it, as I didn’t have enough time to do the whole tour. I love that part of the state as Sussex, Warren, and even bits of Passaic have some of the best roads in my opinion. While unfortunately I didn’t ride the entire 250 tour route I can say some of the roads I did take were fun but a couple were a little circuitous though and unfortunately we hit some traffic even though we got out there before 9 AM. Nevertheless, thank you and Brian for putting the route together. If I get a chance to ride the entire 250 route I’ll send you my thoughts. Thanks again, Marc Marc, Curious as to what you mean ‘circuitous’? Was it that we started you at the Chatterbox and took yuo almost 100 miles to end up at nearly the same
Letters to the Editor spot? Big FIgure Eight is what we did. As for traffic, well, that’s the luck of the draw when riding in the summer on a weekend in northern NJ. Shira, You were kind enough to send me the link to the story about your 2008 trip to Patagonia, which was entertaining, intriguing, and a little scary. We are still in the planning stages of our trip in Jan. 2014, but I have a question: Initially, we were going to take a route similar to yours, criss-crossing the border between Chile and Argentina several times. But, eventually, we started wondering why we would spend so much time doing that when we could stay mostly on the Chilean side and keep heading south. So my question is, why did you take that route? Was it to make sure there would be lodging and/or gas stops? Better roads? Roads, period? Just curious if we would be setting ourselves up for disaster if we don’t do that. Chris Bode Chris, We were with a tour, and we were simply following their route. I don’t know if the route was based on roads, lodging, gas, a combination of all or none of the above. I have heard of folks doing what you propose, so I’m sure there are roads and accommodations along the way. I’m sure whatever you decide to do, you will have a most excellent adventure. Please let us know and enjoy. Dear Brian or Shira: Please let me compliment you both on producing a fine and informative magazine. I look forward to each and every issue to see where you will take me next. I don’t know if any of your readers have told you about the bridge construction on the Narrowsburg bridge from Narrowsburg into Pennsylvania. Only one lane is available due to redecking of the bridge roadway . Traffic is controlled by signal lights with timers. On the weekends traffic can be heavy at times. Coming west on NY 52 use caution as traffic can backup on a hill approaching the bridge. Hope this information is useful. David Johnson
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IND USTRY INFOBITES
News from the Inside
AMERICAN INTERNATIONAL MOTORCYCLE EXPO LIST OF EXHIBITORS HITS 300 MARK In just a matter of weeks, the American International Motorcycle Expo (AIMExpo) has surged from 250 committed exhibitors to now proudly announcing B&W Trailer Hitches as its 300th exhibiting company. The new landmark number is an indicator of how powersports companies both large and small are fully embracing the inaugural event this October 16-20 in Orlando, Fla. “The promise of AIMExpo continues to resonate with the industry, and this recent surge in exhibitor commitments is a clear demonstration of the momentum that is building at an increasing pace,” said Larry Little, Vice President and General Manager of the Marketplace Events Motorcycle Group. “To think that just three weeks ago we were announcing our 250th exhibitor and to now be at a point where 50 more brands have committed to the expo is absolutely remarkable!“ As the lineup of exhibitors for AIMExpo continues to grow at a rapid pace, the anticipation for the event also increases as it sets out to revolutionize the Powersports industry as North America’s first combined consumer, trade and media event. Combining indoor exhibits with outdoor activities, it presents the ideal time and place for new product launches, demo rides, educational programs and more. AIMExpo will be held on October 16-20, 2013 at the Orange County Convention Center in Orlando, Fla. For THE 2013 more information, visit the AIMExpoUSA.com web site, and keep up to date on the continued progress by visiting AIMExpo’s social media pages. “Like” the American International Motorcycle Expo on Facebook by visiting the AIMExpo page, and “Follow” on Twitter: @AIMExpo.
“I’ve admired KR’s longstanding world champion stature, his instant recognition to many generations of motorcyclists, and his continued commitment to the sport today,” said Larry Little, Vice President and General Manager of AIMExpo. In addition to his incredible talent on the track, Roberts also established himself as an advocate for competitors, openly expressing his dissatisfaction with the status quo and fighting for much-needed change in how Grand Prix was operated. His efforts led to greater financial support for riders and long overdue improvements in safety regulations. He became a true champion of the sport both on and off the track and his dedication helped him achieve even greater success as a team owner, overseeing the three-year run of world championships by fellow American Wayne Rainey. As “AIMExpo Champion,” Roberts will play a key role in the festivities of the inaugural event. He will “Champion” the show via pre-event publicity and promotion, play a role in the grand opening of the expo, and share his championship experiences during the consumer days of the show. In an effort to recognize his significance to AIMExpo and to pay tribute to his American dirt-track roots, show producer Marketplace Events Motorcycle Group has commissioned a Star Bolt by Yamaha in Robert’s now famous yellow “trackgraphic” livery, which will be given away at AIMExpo.
Inspiring Touring Performance, Enviable Sporting Credentials
KENNY ROBERTS NAMED AMERICAN INTERNATIONAL MOTORCYCLE CHAMPION FOR INAUGURAL AIMEXPO With the inaugural American International Motorcycle Expo (AIMExpo) nearing, the Marketplace Events Motorcycle Group has made one of its biggest announcements to date with the naming of American motorcycle racing legend Kenny Roberts as their “American International Motorcycle Champion.” In this role, Roberts will serve as the proverbial face of AIMExpo, joining in the celebration of the inaugural show with the entire powersports marketplace – industry, trade, media and consumers. A dirt-track rider from Modesto, Calif., Roberts became an icon in the world of racing during the 1970’s as arguably the most well-rounded competitive rider of all time, possessing a refreshingly energetic, charismatic, and brash persona but with an unrelenting determination for success. After capturing multiple U.S. Grand National Championships, which featured dirttrack and road racing disciplines, Roberts made the move overseas to compete in road racing full time. He became the first rookie rider and the first American rider to win the FIM 500cc World Grand Prix Championship, now known as MotoGP, and cemented his status as one of the all-time greats by capturing three consecutive world championships from 1978-1980. His record of winning the championship as a rookie still stands.
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TRAIL USERS TO BENEFIT FROM FEDERAL FUNDING OF RECREATIONAL TRAILS PROGRAM Off-highway motorcycle riders and other trail users stand to benefit from up to $82.4 million in federal funding to be apportioned to 49 states in 2014 through the Recreational Trails Program, the American Motorcyclist Association reports. Only Florida opted out of the program for fiscal 2014. “As a federal grant program that provides funds to develop and maintain recreational trails, RTP is vitally needed to continue expanding and maintaining off-highway opportunities for riders,” said AMA Vice President of Government Relations Wayne Allard. “In fact, RTP funds come from excise taxes generated by fuel purchased for off-highway vehicle recreation — offhighway motorcycles, all-terrain vehicles, snowmobiles and off-highway light trucks — so this is money that rightfully belongs to trail users.” Since its inception, the RTP has leveraged more than $787 million of federal grants into more than $1.3 billion in monies to fund recreational trails. Without this vital program, many trails would not have been built and without its continuation, many will face reduced maintenance and possible closure. Authorized funds are allocated annually by the federal government to those states that choose not to opt-out for that fiscal year. Every year the governor of each state has the option to opt-out of the RTP and deploy the funds to other non-recreational projects. Each state then manages its funds in consultation with an RTP board that represents both motorized and non-motorized recreationists. RTP funds support motorized, non-motorized and mixed-use trails projects. The only stipulation is that 30 percent of obligated funds must go to motorized trails, 30 percent to non-motorized trails and 40 percent to mixed-use trails. Over the last year, the AMA and the OHV community have successfully fought against the elimination of the RTP by Congress, stressing the economic and social benefits of responsible recreation. The current federal highway authorization — known as MAP-21 — provides $85 million dollars annually for distribution to the states. However, OHV users contribute significantly more to the federal highway trust fund. This marks the second consecutive year that Florida has opted-out of the annual RTP allocation, giving up $5.2 million in funding already paid for by that state’s off-highway vehicle recreation community.
OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
MSF OFFERS ECOURSE ON MOTORCYCLING BASICS Designed to promote lifelong learning in a convenient, informative online format, the new Motorcycle Safety Foundation Basic eCourse is now available for $19.99 on MSF’s homepage. The highly interactive three-hour MSF Basic eCourse incorporates photos, graphics, video and more to provide participants with the basics of motorcycling with emphasis on personal safety and responsibility. The MSF Basic eCourse can be completed on its own as a stand-alone program or it can be taken in conjunction with the updatedfor-2014, hands-on Basic RiderCourse, the only place to develop your actual riding skills and learn to ride. “The MSF is very excited about the new MSF Basic eCourse,” said MSF Vice President of Training Systems Dr. Ray Ochs. “It combines concepts and content from the updated Basic RiderCourse with virtual learning, allowing users to take the course at their own pace, as often as they like. As always, MSF’s ultimate goal is to develop motorcyclists of good riding character and reduce the frequency and severity of motorcycle crashes. We believe accessible online training and education is another meaningful way to achieve that.” Designed to complement and reinforce the content in the updated BRC 2014 curriculum, the MSF Basic eCourse is beneficial for new and experienced riders alike. It helps new riders decide whether or not motorcycling is appropriate for them, and it prepares them for their first ride in the formal, hands-on training provided in the Basic RiderCourse. It also helps current riders who are looking for a safety renewal opportunity to refresh and improve their current riding strategies. The MSF Basic eCourse outlines key safety concepts to promote responsible riding and risk-reducing behavior. It allows users to repeat segments at their convenience and provides end-of-segment knowledge checks that ensure the user understands the material addressed. Upon completion of the MSF Basic eCourse, students receive a certificate for their efforts. Initial concept testing of the MSF Basic eCourse showed it communicates well to prospective riders, while also renewing fundamental safety strategies for riders with experience.
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OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
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THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD thoughts on ameriCade 2013
Tony Lisanti
60 years of age. Couple the age factor with the aforementioned weight issue and no wonder there are more trailers, trikes, and Can-Am Spyders here each Since 1991 I have been a registered attendee at what is billed as the World’s and every year. The manufacturers can’t be blamed - they simply provide largest touring rally - Americade. This rally, formerly named Aspencade, has products based on demand. As a result there are fewer sport bikes and sport been the gathering place for serious touring and casual riders alike each tourers as part of the demo fleet each year with cruisers, scooters and trikes spring for the past 30 plus years. As a younger man the trip to Lake George making up a larger portion of the available rides. There are also all types of started as a real adventure. Setting out on the road with a packed bike was a rider aids (training wheels) for motorcycles being sold. In a weird way I think new experience. What would Mother Nature have in store for us? How far tour expo is becoming a surgical supply store for motorcycle riders catering before I would need fuel? Since that time packing and traveling for a few to the senior and physically limited “rider”. Is it a bad thing to have rider days on two wheels has become one of life’s great pleasures for me. Attendaids to extend the ability for folks to ride? No, it’s probably a good thing. ing the Americade rally is one of my favorite things to do each year. It’s close Over the years fewer of the big manufacturers show up. The Big Four to home - only three hours away and Lake George is one of my favorite Japanese brands and Harley have been there, some taking a hiatus when ecoplaces to visit and ride into the Adirondacks. nomics dictated they should. However, Americade does advertise a few more Since the early 1990s, we have seen manufacturers than actually show up. the Americade rally grow and grow, atertainly not what should be expected at the World’s No KTM, Ducati or Triumph. Suzuki tracting major manufacturers for demo Largest Touring Rally. Is it the economy? The cost for had been missing for the last 5 years, rides, accessories and maintenance vendors to attend the rally? The demographics of the making a long awaited return this year. services. Americade was viewed as the rally attendees? I don’t have answers, but those organThe biggest change however is the perfect place to take your new bike, izing the rally should be concerned. quality of the vendors. I can remember have it outfitted with top of the line actour expo being the place to see top cessories or get that new tire installed for the tourer who traveled several quality apparel and accessories. You know the stuff you see advertised in the thousand miles to get here. Many years I would plan on a tire change at magazines all year long? Need a new seat or tire? No problem there would Americade since it was easy to shop and compare three or four manufacturbe at least two or three major manufacturers of each to choose from. And ers’ offerings in one place. Not so much anymore. There is bling-o-plenty they would offer installation on site. Now there are only the smaller vendors. but lately you can’t find an oil change or a new tire. To be fair there were a Sure there are still a few of the biggies - Nolan, Givi, Klim, J&M, Twisted few tuners (offering loud exhaust systems) a Dunlop tire safety check and Throttle. But no more Metzler, Dunlop, Corbin or Mustang. Even Kuryakyn some suspension upgrades available. was a no show this year. The riding gear options this year really took a turn I have also noticed a disturbing trend that has been discussed throughout for the worse. Basically what is available is the typical off brand leather and the motorcycle universe. First the physical condition of the riders. I am not textile stuff you can find at any weekend biker rally. No disrespect to the one to talk about being in shape, having more than a few extra pounds and small manufacturer or businessperson. Lord knows the cost for a booth has more than my share of aches and pains. But, or (butt) more to the point, the to be steep. This year though was disappointing. No Olympia, Motoport or size and sheer obesity of those attending Americade each year is alarming. any major apparel or boot company were present, Kilm and Twisted Throttle As a cross section of our society - I think we all realize a growing number of being the only exceptions. Certainly not what should be expected at the Americans are overweight. Sorry if that offends anyone but that’s not earth World’s Largest Touring Rally. Is it the economy? The cost for vendors to shattering news. I see it in myself, and many of those I cross paths with regattend the rally? The demographics of the rally attendees? I don’t have anularly. We simply are a heavy weight population. Motorcycling however is swers, but those organizing the rally should be concerned. My fear is that in supposed to be a leisure sport. Sport requires some amount of physical effort a few years this will only be another biker rally rather than a premier touring implying a reasonable level of health and dexterity. From casual non-scienevent. Sure they still offer a great deal of seminars, guided tours, dinner tific observation it seems a disproportionate amount of obese people attend cruises and demonstrations, so hopefully that will be enough to keep attractAmericade. ing the right type of rally goer. The new riders have to be considered - how In my late twenties and early thirties, clearly I was in the younger age will this rally survive if they don’t attract newbies? Maybe the Warrensburg bracket for attendees. Now knocking at the door of the big Five-O, I feel I Bike Rally over takes Americade? I, for one, don’t want to see that happen. am still in the younger bracket. There must be statistics on the average age Americade is still a great event, but it needs to be polished up a bit. Lets see of Americade attendees but I would have to think it would be around 59 or what they do in the years to come.
C
BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013
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Hanover Powersports Presents
BIG CIT Y G ETAWAY
daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind
miChaux state Forest & Caledonia state park A PennsylvAniA Gem Over the past number of seasons, on our way near and far, we have been fortunate enough to scoot both south and north through Pennsylvania’s Michaux State Forest. This past April we once again ran through this beautiful park not once but many times while at a BMW rally in Gettysburg. We were all smiles every time. The Michaux State Forest, which contains a number of Pennsylvania State Parks, is located in Adams, Cumberland and Franklin counties, not all that far from the infamous battlefield at Gettysburg. It is named in honor of Andre Michaux, a French botanist, dispatched by the King and Queen of France in 1785 to gather plants for the Royal Gardens. He and his son Francois Andre Michaux are noted for discovering and identifying a host of flowers, shrubs and trees. From the mid-eighteenth century to the early twentieth century the lands that are now the Michaux State Forest were owned by large iron companies. Iron furnaces processed iron ore, dug from open pits, into “pig iron”, which was forged into iron tools, stoves, kettles, and a variety of other implements. The largest iron furnaces were located at Caledonia, Mont Alto and Pine Grove Furnace. Cannon balls made from these furnaces were used during the Revolutionary War. The iron companies needed large land holdings from which to cut wood that was converted to charcoal
and used to fuel the iron furnaces. The iron industry disappeared in this area when it could no longer compete with new technology and richer ore deposits found to the west. These days you can still find furnaces in the park. The Michaux State Forest can boast many firsts in forestry in Pennsylvania. The first forest tree nursery was established in Mont Alto in 1902, the first wooden fire tower in established in 1905 and the first steel fire tower in 1914. In 1903, the Pennsylvania State Forest Academy was established at Mont Alto. It was the first of its kind in the state and only the second in the nation to train professional foresters. Prior to this, foresters went to Europe for training. Today, the Michaux State Forest, comprising more than 85,000 acres, is managed for a variety of uses that benefit not only the citizens of Pennsylvania, but also the nation and the world. A variety of wood products are produced from the timber resources providing for the needs of millions of people as well as aiding the local economy. The forest is crisscrossed with many great roads. Rte. 233 and Pine Grove
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www.HanoverPowersports.com Mon, Tue, Wed, Fri: 9am-6pm • Thur: 9am-8pm • Sat: 9am-5pm SUNDAY: CLOSED - GONE RIDING *Finance offer subject to credit approval, applies to purchases of new Yamaha Motorcycles, ATVs & Scooters made on a Yamaha Installment Financing loan account from 9/1/13-12/26/13. Min. contract length 24 mos, max. 36 mos. Min. amount financed $5,000. Fixed APR of 3.99%, 5.99%, 6.99% or 12.99% assigned based on credit approval criteria. Monthly payments per $1,000 financed based on 36-mo. term are $29.52 at 3.99% and $33.69 at 12.99%. **Customer Cash offer good on select 2009-2013 models between 9/1/13-12/26/13. Offers good only in the U.S., excluding the state of Hawaii. Dress properly for your ride with a helmet, eye protection, long-sleeved shirt, long pants, gloves and boots. Do not drink and ride. It is illegal and dangerous. Yamaha and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation encourage you to ride safely and respect the environment. For further information regarding the MSF course, please call 1-800-446-9227. ATV models shown are recommended for use only by riders 16 years and older. Raptor 700R recommended for experienced riders only. Yamaha recommends that all ATV riders take an approved training course. For safety and training information, see your dealer or call the ATV Safety Institute at 1-800-887-2887. ATVs can be hazardous to operate. For your safety: Always avoid paved surfaces. Never ride on public roads. Always wear a helmet, eye protection and protective clothing. Never carry passengers. Never engage in stunt riding. Riding and alcohol/drugs don’t mix. Avoid excessive speed. And be particularly careful on difficult terrain. Professional riders depicted on a closed courses. ©2013 Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A. All rights reserved. • YamahaMotorsports.com 9/13
www.Powersports.Honda.com Mon, Tue, Wed, Fri: 9am-6pm • Thur: 9am-8pm • Sat: 9am-5pm SUNDAY: CLOSED - GONE RIDING honda.com ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET, EYE PROTECTION AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING. NEVER RIDE UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF DRUGS OR ALCOHOL, AND NEVER USE THE STREET AS A RACETRACK. OBEY THE LAW AND READ THE OWNER’S MANUAL THOROUGHLY. For rider training information or to locate a rider training course near you, call the Motorcycle Safety Foundation at 800-446-9227. CTX™ and Gold Wing® are registered trademarks of Honda Motor Co., Ltd. (07/13)
Page 16 Road, which drops in from the Lincoln Highway – America’s first big road. Baltimore and Shippensburg Roads travel more east to west. Birch Run, Mileburn and Forest Roads run up and down the ridge and along the Long Pine Reservoir. Piney Mountain Ridge Road runs parallel to 233, but offers a bit more tricky ride. South Mountain Road is a real blast and offers a great technical ride, the toughest of the bunch. All these roads may have a bit of dirt along the way, but hopefully nothing too technical. Through all of this you will see, again and again, the Appalachian Trail. America’s most famous hiking trail runs some 2,200 miles between Springer Mountain in Georgia and Mount Katahdin in Maine. It crosses right through Michaux State Forest and here you will find the Appalachian Trail Museum which is dedicated to preserving and telling the story of this iconic American wonder; its founding, construction, preservation, maintenance, protection, and the enjoyment of the Trail since its creation. It is well worth the visit even if you are not a hiker and you can find out more about the museum at www.atmuseum.org. The museum is open Wednesday thru Sunday through November 3, as well as Columbus Day, and is free. Call before visiting to make sure they will be there (717 486-8126).
OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS Whether you are simply riding through or staying for a few days to explore this superb part of the Keystone State you will not be disappointed with what you’ll find along the roads in and around Michaux State Forest. The Autumn season, with its beautiful reds, yellows and oranges, are the perfect time to plan a trip to the area. We’ve started this 140-mile loop from the Carlisle House in Carlisle, PA. It’s a wonderful place to lay your head and a member of Backroads’ MotoInn program.
Rip & Ride® • MICHAUX STATE PARK RUN • DOWNLOAD GPS ROUTE HERE: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/PRO/DL/PU7EMV START: CARLISLE HOUSE, 148 S. HANOVER ST, CARLISLE, PA HEAD SOUTH ON S. HANOVER/RTE. 34 RIGHT ONTO MARSH DR LEFT ONTO ROCKLEDGE DR RIGHT ONTO W OLD YORK RD/RTE. 174 LEFT ONTO MONTSERA RD RIGHT ONTO PINE RD LEFT ONTO CENTERVILLE RD/RTE. 233 S. RIGHT ONTO PINE GROVE RD/RTE. 233 APPALACHIAN TRAIL MUSEUM 1120 PINE GROVE RD, GARDNERS, PA LEFT ONTO BENDERSVILLE RD – PINE GROVE FURNACE RD RIGHT ONTO BENDERSVILLE WENKSVILLE RD LEFT ONTO BRYSONIA WENKSVILLE RD RIGHT ONTO NAWAKWA RD LEFT ONTO NARROWS RD RIGHT ONTO WINDING RD RIGHT ONTO CASHTOWN RD RIGHT ONTO NEW RD LEFT ONTO CHURCH RD LEFT ONTO BUCHANAN VALLEY RD/RTE. 234 RIGHT ONTO LINCOLN HIWAY/RTE. 30 RIGHT ONTO PINE GROVE RD/RTE. 233 LEFT ONTO QUARRY GAP RD LEFT ONTO LOCUST GAP RD RIGHT ONTO BLACK GAP RD RIGHT ONTO RIDGE RD RIGHT ONTO LINDSAY LOT RD RIGHT ONTO MAINSVILLE RD RIGHT ONTO BALTIMORE RD RIGHT ONTO SHIPPENSBURG RD LEFT ONTO PINE GROVE RD/RTE. 233 LEFT ONTO OXFORD RD LEFT ONTO VICTORY CHURCH RD RIGHT ONTO CARLISLE/BALTIMORE PIKE-RTE. 94 S.
LEFT ONTO LATIMORE RD RIGHT ONTO STRAYER RD RIGHT ONTO TOWN HILL RD LEFT ONTO MILL RD RIGHT ONTO MOUNTAIN RD LEFT ONTO BRAGGTOWN RD LEFT ONTO PONDTOWN RD RIGHT ONTO BALTIMORE PIKE/RTE. 194 LEFT ONTO CREEK RD RIGHT ONTO DOE RUN RD RIGHT ONTO KRAFTWOWN RD LEFT ONTO WELLSVILLE RD LEFT ONTO HARMONY GROVE RD RIGHT ONTO YORK ST/RTE. 74 RIGHT ONTO CARLISLE RD/RTE. 74 LEFT ONTO ALPINE RD LEFT ONTO ROSSTOWN RD/RTE. 177 RIGHT ONTO PINETOWN RD LEFT ONTO ROUNDTOP RD LEFT ONTO MT AIRY RD RIGHT ONTO S YORK RD LEFT ONTO W LISBURN RD LEFT ONTO GETTYSBURG PIKE RIGHT ONTO GRANTHAM RD LEFT ONTO WILLIAMS GROVE RD RIGHT ONTO CARLISLE RD/RTE. 74 LEFT ONTO CREEK RD RIGHT ONTO LEIDIGH DR LEFT ONTO LUTZTOWN RD LEFT ONTO BOILING SPRINGS RD/RTE. 174 RIGHT ONTO BONNYBROOK RD RIGHT ONTO S SPRING GARDEN ST LEFT ONTO E POMFRET ST LEFT ONTO S HANOVER ST TO CARLISLE HOUSE
BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013
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Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s M YST ER IOU S AM ER IC A the War oF the Worlds • 75 years later Ladies and gentlemen, we interrupt our program of dance music to bring you a special bulletin from the Intercontinental Radio News. At twenty minutes before eight, central time, Professor Farrell of the Mount Jennings Observatory, Chicago, Illinois, reports observing several explosions of incandescent gas, occurring at regular intervals on the planet Mars. The spectroscope indicates the gas to be hydrogen and moving towards the earth with enormous velocity. Professor Pierson of the Observatory at Princeton confirms Farrell’s observation, and describes the phenomenon as “like a jet of blue flame shot from a gun”. We now return you to the music of Ramón Raquello, playing for you in the Meridian Room of the Park Plaza Hotel, situated in downtown New York. It was the night of October 30, 1938, 75 long years ago, yet this one broadcast is still talked about today. One man, Orson Welles, set the nation, and the world, into panic with a simple radio adaptation of H.G. Wells’ novel – The War of the Worlds. Ladies and gentlemen, this is Carl Phillips again, at the Wilmuth farm, Grover’s Mill, New Jersey. Professor Pierson and myself made the eleven miles from Princeton in ten minutes. Well, I . . . I hardly know where to begin, to paint for you a word picture of the strange scene before my eyes, like something out of a modern “Arabian Nights.” Well, I just got here. I haven’t had a chance to look around
yet. I guess that’s it. Yes, I guess that’s the . . . thing, directly in front of me, half buried in a vast pit. Must have struck with terrific force. The ground is covered with splinters of a tree it must have struck on its way down. What I can see of the . . . object itself doesn’t look very much like a meteor, at least not the meteors I’ve seen. It looks more like a huge cylinder. These days Grover’s Mill is a quiet middle class New Jersey region, with many commuting by car and train each day to work. Still the town will never shake the history surrounding the region. There have been numerous references in the sci-fi genre, including The Adventures of Buckaroo Banzai Across the 8th Dimension, The X-Files and others. With the 75th anniversary coming up this very month we thought it would be a good idea to take a ride down to Grover’s Mill and see what Martian artifacts, if any, are still around the town. Arriving in town and in search of a good cup of coffee and a bit of breakfast I found the Grover’s Mill Coffee House and Roastery, in a typical NJ strip mall at Southfield Shopping Center, 295 Princeton Hightstown Road.
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OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS I was not sure, but I had a feeling something was going on in this place other than just fantabulous coffee and a great breakfast sandwich. Along the walls and in the nooks and crannies of the café I found all things War of the Worlds related. Models from both movies are on display - the Tom Cruise knockoff and the real one from 1953 that scared the poop out of me when my father told me it was real. Posters, some signed by actress Ann Robinson, who visited Grover’s Mill a few years back, adorn the walls. The place even has a serious comic book collection dedicated to the War of the Worlds – my favorite being the ones featuring “Killraven” from Marvel. I read all them too. Later, looking at their website - www.Groversmillcoffee.com - I realized that this place just might be under alien control. This Halloween they will have a “live” presentation of the original radio Broadcast at the Coffee House. I might make the ride for this. Ladies and gentlemen (Am I on?). Ladies and gentlemen, here I am, back of a stone wall that adjoins Mr. Wilmuth’s garden. From here I get a sweep of the whole scene. I’ll give you every detail as long as I can talk. As long as I can see. More state police have arrived They’re drawing up a cordon in front of the pit, about thirty of them. No need to push the crowd back now. They’re willing to keep their distance. The captain is conferring with someone. We can’t quite see who. Oh yes, I believe it’s Professor Pierson. Yes, it is. Now they’ve parted. The Professor moves around one side, studying the object, while the captain and two policemen advance with something in their hands. I can see it now. It’s a white handkerchief tied to a pole . . . a flag of truce. If those creatures know what that means . . . what anything means!. . . Wait! Something’s happening! A humped shape is rising out of the pit. I can make out a small beam of light against a mirror. What’s that? There’s a jet of flame springing from the mirror, and it leaps right at the advancing men. It strikes them head on! Good Lord, they’re turning into flame! Back during the original broadcast locals armed themselves, even back in the 30s you just did not mess with Jersey! The famed picture of local farmer William Dock, with his pipe in his mouth and shotgun at the ready, showed how serious Grover’s Mill residents were about defending themselves.
I rode down to the Grover’s Pond, where the town has erected a monument to the “Landing Spot.” Follow the trail to the pond and a number of plaques will tell you the entire story of that night 75 years back. I motored down to the old barn, now reconverted office space, with the bold Grover’s Mills sign splashed across it. This was where the old water tower stood; the same tower that was shot up that night when some mistakenly thought it a Martian machine in the darkness. This is Orson Welles, ladies and gentlemen, out of character to assure you that The War of The Worlds has no further significance than as the holiday offering it was intended to be. The Mercury Theatre’s own radio version of dressing up in a sheet and jumping out of a bush and saying Boo! Starting now, we couldn’t soap all your windows and steal all your garden gates by tomorrow night. . . so we did the best next thing. We annihilated the world before your very ears, and utterly destroyed the C. B. S. You will be relieved, I hope, to learn that we didn’t mean it, and that both institutions are still open for business. So goodbye everybody, and remember the terrible lesson you learned tonight. That grinning, glowing, globular invader of your living room is an inhabitant of the pumpkin patch, and if your doorbell rings and nobody’s there, that was no Martian. . .it’s Hallowe’en. Of course, you might remember, that the Martians eventually succumbed to Earthly germs, their immune system not ready for the common cold, TB or was it jock itch – no one really knows, but I do know that Grover’s Mill has always been and will always be a part of Mysterious America. O’Life out!
BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013
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G REAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN billy joe’s ribWorks 26 Front st , neWburgh, ny 12550 (845) 565-1560 • WWW.ribWorks.Com A table with a view is always a good thing. It is even better when that table starts to fill up with some of the best barbeque on the Hudson River. And at this time of year, with the weather turning cooler in the afternoons, dining al fresco with the changing leaves surrounding you will be terrific. After decades of languishing and falling apart there has been an incredible rebirth of the riverside town of Newburgh’s Waterfront.
One of the highlights these days is also this month’s stop on the Great All American Diner Run – Billy Joe’s Ribworks. Located right on the river the restaurant fills a huge warehouse that harkens to the day when heavy industry ruled the Hudson. It’s expansive dining area is only outmatched by it wide outdoor deck and superb vista of the Hudson River and surrounding hills. When you combine this location, the superb riding that surrounds Newburgh and the awesome menu at Billy Joe’s Ribworks then you can see why we’re here. The menu here at Billy Joe’s holds all the usual barbeque suspects and some other things that really caught our eye. Appetizers include Smoked Out Wings, Smoky Chipotle Calamari, Beer & Shrimp Boil, Southern Fried Pickles and Fried Green Tomatoes and three different cheese fries – Classic, Texas and Carolina. What is the difference you ask? Well, the Classic is crispy seasoned fries topped with crumbled bacon, melted cheddar and green onions, served with Billy Joe’s signature BBQ ranch dressing. The Texas Cheese fries are topped with chopped beef brisket, smoky onions, jalapenos, diced tomatoes and pepper jack cheese. Carolina Cheese Fries fill your plate topped with pulled BBQ pork, smoky onions, baked beans, melted cheddar and green onions. Yes, they probably do have a defibrillator. Other wondrous items to be found on Billy Joe’s menu include Cheezy Mac, Porky Mac and Veggie Mac. All three simply wonderful versions of the
tasty places to take your bike American classic mac & cheese! When you walk in through the wide wooden doors at Billy Joe’s you will see three huge smokers off to the right, viewed through some large glass windows. This is where the magic really happens and their smoked menu is impressive. Billy Joe’s Smoked Prime Rib, Grilled Smoked “Ribeye Steak,” Sliced Beef Brisket, Pulled BBQ Pork, Smoked Sausage Platter and Smoked Sausage Platter. Combinations of Shrimp & Sirloin, Ribs & Chicken, and two interesting combos - one called Billy Joe’s Feast and the other named the Ribworks Hangover. These are group efforts and should be treated as such. If you are hankerin’ for a burger Billy Joe’s has you covered with six different offerings including the decadent Mac Burger which is a Charbroiled Handmade Burger dripping with Melted Cheddar and piled high with their Classic Mac’n Cheese and Crispy Onion Straws. Yummy. Even more yummy were their “Speciality Sandwiches.”
The Breuben was the bomb. Others include Chopped Brisket and Cheddar, Smokin’ Eye-Talian and Shira’s Grilled Mac & Cheese with Chopped Brisket was scrumptious. If you are not a “smoke” lover Billy Joe’s also has a number of more traditional plates like House-Made Meatloaf, Not-So-Boring Grilled Chicken as well as shrimp, steaks and salmon. This day I had a combo of ribs and chicken with their Mac & Cheese and
OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
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Rip & Ride® MOTORCYCLEPEDIA MUSEUM, 250 LAKE ST, NEWBURGH, NY BILLY JOE’S RIBWORKS, 26 FRONT ST, NEWBURGH, NY 12550 • 845-565-1560 • WWW.RIBWORKS.COM THIS 75-MILE ONE-WAY RIDE STARTS UNDER THE GEORGE WASHINGTON BRIDGE START: HENRY HUDSON DRIVE PICNIC AREA, NORTH OF GEORGE WASHINGTON BRIDGE NORTH ON HENRY HUDSON DRIVE RIGHT ONTO US 9W LEFT ONTO OAK TREE RD RIGHT ONTO MAIN ST LEFT ONTO OLD TAPPAN RD RIGHT ONTO RIVERVALE RD RIGHT ONTO ORANGEBURGH RD RIGHT ONTO VETERANS MEMORIAL DR LEFT ONTO BLUE HILL RD LEFT ONTO STICKLETOWN RD RIGHT ONTO STICKLETOWN RD LEFT ONTO GERMONDS RD RIGHT ONTO PARROT RD LEFT ONTO STRAWTOWN RD RIGHT ONTO RIDGE RD LEFT ONTO HAVERSTRAW RD BEAR RIGHT ONTO S MOUNTAIN RD RIGHT ONTO CENTRAL HWY/LITTLE TOR RD
RIGHT ONTO RAMAPO RD/RTE. 202 LEFT ONTO CR 94/MAIN ST LEFT ONTO WILLOW GROVE RD STRAIGHT ONTO CR 106/OLD GATE RD TAKE FIRST EXIT AT KANAWAUKE CIRCLE/7 LAKES DR TAKE 3RD EXIT AT CIRCLE ONTO US 6 WEST EXIT ONTO CR 293 NORTH TAKE RTE. 218 NORTH THROUGH WEST POINT CONTINUE ON STORM KING HWY RIGHT ONTO RIVER AVE LEFT ONTO SHORE RD RIGHT ONTO US 9W NORTH LEFT ONTO UNION AVE/CR 69 RIGHT ONTO WINDSOR HWY/CR 32 MOTORCYCLEPEDIA MUSEUM – 250 LAKE ST ON LEFT
EXIT LEFT ONTO CR 32 RIGHT ONTO WASHINGTON ST LEFT ONTO S WATER ST RIGHT ONTO FRONT ST BILLY JOE’S RIBWORKS – 26 FRONT ST ON RIGHT
BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013 Braised Greens on the side. It was everything I had hoped for. Another good thing about Billy Joe’s besides its great food, excellent view and rippin’ roads to and from is that it is not too far from Motorcyclepedia, the northeast’s preeminent motorcycle museum and our route will bring you to Motorcyclepedia and then onto Billy Joe’s for an excellent lunch after exploring the museum. Enjoy!
WhatChathinkin’ (Continued from Page 6) ing my bike there with my eyes and head up, looking to where Brian had stopped, I proceeded slowly while slightly touching my rear brake. I suppose my idea of slowly may not have been slow enough and, within an instant the bike and I were going off course, the handlebars twitching left, right and left again, just as the front tire found that big gully I was trying to avoid. Until the very last minute before I was pitched off the bike to the right I thought I would be able to ride it out. Even Brian said to me later that he thought I was going to save it. Having been to this rodeo before, as soon as the bike was down and I knew I hadn’t done any serious damage to myself, I shut it off and looked to see what had happened to my bike. Amazingly, nothing on the bike itself was damaged. The fairing and crash bars were scraped and the auxiliary lights were a bit twisted but not broken. The right Jesse bag was still on the rail and looked to be okay. I thought to myself, ‘Wow, I thought I hit a lot harder than I guess I did.’ Always the optimist I am. Brian came up the hill, asked if I was okay and proceeded to pick up the bike. I then saw how wrong I was, as the pristine, beautiful Jesse luggage was dramatically shifted to the left, the entire luggage bracket being bent. I had hit as hard as I initially thought to have done that. But the strength of those bags and bracket kept the motorcycle itself unscathed, and the bag never even came off the rail, the cam lock working exactly as it was intended. With me and the bike upright, we took stock and decided to continue to the Carneys and see what we could do about the frame. With strength, fortitude, a maul and RokStraps, Brian and John made the luggage stable. The next day we were off on the rest of our journey, with my bike only being photographed from the left side. Will this be the last time my bike and I part company? Who can say? I do know that another day spent with the folks from Ride Like a Pro is in my future, and practicing u-turns and figure eights will be higher on my priority list while waiting in a parking lot for others. There will always be down sides to motorcycling, but let’s hope that they are VERY few and far between.
Page 21 postCards From the hedge (Continued from Page 7) your trusted dealer could be a big help here. Even stock suspension pieces that aren’t overloaded or abused can lose some of their springiness as the miles pile up, and if it feels OK and you haven’t reached the end of your adjustments yet you are probably fine. But realize that (like brake pads) the weakening of damping can be gradual and you may not notice when things wallow a tad when before they did not. Again, this is another thing to look for during the awesome autumn rides we go on, and the bike will communicate to you how it’s feeling if you pay attention. I could continue to lighting, but I think you’re getting the idea. This is an important exercise, but a pleasant one as well and it can help you plan the bike’s down time so it won’t get lonely when the snow drifts start piling up. You’ll be busy renewing things and even improving them if the need and desire arises, and you and your ride will be better for it. And when the winter is done, you’ll have a “new” motorcycle under you to celebrate spring’s arrival and yet it will seem as familiar as the bike you rode last fall because it is the same (only better). Shoot, enough of this. It just so happens I’ve already got some new brake pads sitting on my workbench, calling my name. I’d hate to keep them waiting too long, and nothing wrong with doing a little upgrading before the snow starts to fall, either.
OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
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W E’RE OUT TA HERE Vir - ameriCa’s motorsports resort • a room With a VieW Virginia international raCeWay 1245 pine tree road, alton, Va 24520 434-822-7700 • 36.549699 -79.192843 • VirnoW.Com We like to serve you kids up something different every now and again and this month’s “We’re Outta Here!” is just that – a room with a view.
A very fast view. Welcome to the Resort at VIR. But, first a little history… In 1955, a group of North Carolina sports car enthusiasts began searching for a suitable racetrack location. At that time there were only two permanent road courses in America and they were located in Elkhart Lake, Wisconsin and Watkins Glen, New York. Most sports car races in America had their beginnings on public roads and were currently being run on airport runways. Eventually they found the perfect site just across the state line from Milton,
a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads NC on 1200 acres of rolling farmland belonging to the Foote family. Creating the actual track was going to be tough as it was believed materials and equipment would need to be trucked into the remote location. According to one of the original creators of the track, Dr. Hooper Johnson, “Some local public highway engineers had told us the kind of mix of sand and gravel we needed to put down for a base and it was going to be expensive to buy enough to cover 3.27 miles. The Stricklands came
up with a solution. Horace and Harry were a couple of “big ole country boys”. They came down from Fancy Gap with their workers and camped out in the big barn on the farm during the week and went home on weekends. One day they called me and said ‘Doc, you’ve got to come up here and see this. We need gravel? The whole river is full of gravel!’ It seems they went down to the river to bathe and discovered the whole riverbed was full of gravel. They just backed down to the river and got all we needed. Didn’t cost us a nickel!” By the summer of 1956 the original group had completed everything but
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the paving. The Strickland brothers brought in a paving company from Greensboro that they had worked with before but a major obstacle stood in the way. The pavers wanted $8,000 before they would bring their equipment to the job. With the end in sight, the developers needed more cash than they had readily available to finish the job. A new club member, Ed Kemm had recently moved to Greensboro from New York and had both the cash and the enthusiasm to finish the job. The officers of the corporation quickly gave him a tour of the site and made him chairman of the board. Hooper Johnson remembers that Ed Welch commented after Kemm decided to invest, “Hooper, that’s the first good night’s sleep I’ve had in a year!” Thus what would become Virginia International Raceway was born. Things went well till the mid-70’s when the track closed when the economy tanked and it lay fallow until 1998, when it was rediscovered. Today VIR is one of the sweetest track facilities in the nation. They have a number of places to overnight while visiting the track, whether it be for a school like CLASS that comes here each year, or one of the many fine road racing events that VIR hosts each season. Everyone relaxes comfortably in the rooms at the Lodge, complete with resort amenities, hardwood floors and a premier front porch view of the racetrack. You even get a jacuzzi tub with this one. While we were there we took one of the their Pit Lane rooms, or what I like to call a room with a view! A real view of the straightaway. Below the rooms there are the paddock garages which you can rent for an
additional charge and are perfect if you are at VIR to compete or take a riding school like CLASS. VIR also offers a number of high-end villas if that is more your flavor. There is also a spa on the grounds and after two days on the track we partook in some wonderful full body massages. If you’d like to take a dip in the pool, that is located right next to the Oak Tree Tavern and is quite refreshing. VIR Resort offers more than just a splash-and-dash for your refueling. To complement your visit, the Oak Tree Tavern, located in a beautifully transformed 1840s plantation house, provide perfect spots to fuel up with gourmet fare. We ate there 3 nights in a row and always had something different and delicious. Just sitting out on the porch in the late afternoon light, after a 100 miles or so on the track, was about as relaxing as could be. No matter how you look at it the resort, rooms, facilities and the wonderful track itself is well worth the visit to Dansville, Virginia, whether as a spectator or participant. To make it worth your while, you can still get in on the last session of CLASS with Reg Pridmore and crew October 7 & 8. Just give Gigi a call at 805-933-9936 or check their website at www.classrides.com. Whether one or two days on this great track, the relaxation and information you’ll receive is worth the trip.
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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013
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OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
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Northwest Passage words and images: Brian Rathjen
hen it was announced last year that the BMW MOA Rally was to be held in Salem, Oregon we booked a hotel room that same day. We knew that a cross-country jaunt would not work out with timing, but we knew we would figure something out for motorcycles between then and now. So on a sultry July morning we boarded a United 757 jet and flew west to Los Angeles. By later that day we picked up two press machines from BMW, the redesigned R1200GS and the all new F800GT.
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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013
LA to the High Desert These were two machines we were looking forward to touring with, the GS with the new water-cooled Boxer engine and the GT, as it looked to be the perfect mid-sized tourer. Luck would have it we ran into our friend Alfonse “Fonzie” Palaima at the BMW Center in Torrance. A long-time moto-photographer extraordinaire he was also picking up a press machine and meeting him at BMW was a great way to start this tour. We found lunch at a California staple, In and Out Burgers. Fonz too was heading to the BMW Rally later in the next week and he rode
along with us for a while, leading our lane-splitting charge through heavy afternoon LA freeway traffic till he peeled off and we continued onto Route 2, the famed Angels Crest Highway. Just north of Los Angeles the Angels Crest runs for 66 miles and much of the road reaches altitudes above 7,000 feet, with a summit of 7,903 feet at the Dawson Saddle, which makes this road one of the highest and most fun in Southern California.
Page 27 We stopped at Dawson Saddle, looking for Big Horn sheep and then continued down through Wrightwood, a charming high desert town that had a concert going and restaurants full. We still had a bit of daylight and so we continued onto Hesperia where we found a chain hotel, a Target for sundries and some great tacos and wings. A few years back we spent some miles on Route 395 that runs up the eastern edge of the Golden State, beneath the Sierras Nevada, like the backbone of California. We wanted to revisit this road.
Hesperia to Bridgeport With its beginning down in the High Desert, US 395 is full of history, ghost towns, hot springs and some of the most ancient forms of life on the planet. This day we’d look for all that and more. In this part of California, 395 is not all that pretty, but the occasional Joshua Tree or scurrying jackrabbit can break the straight line monotony. By midmorning it was time for a bite of breakfast and there before our eyes appeared the ghost town called Randsburg. Gold was discovered here in 1895 and soon the Rand Company was formed and the town soon followed. As with many such ‘Boom’ towns it eventually went bust but Randsburg has manage to keep the ‘Living Ghost Town’ image alive and, well, sort of well with a number of shops, a bar, general store and other attractions to keep their name on the map. We found a decent breakfast at the store next to the oldest soda counter in the state. That would work for us this day.
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A few hours later we found a road that had its ups and downs…literally. Highway 168 rises and falls into the ever upward of the White Mountains and would bring us to the Ancient Bristlecone Pine Forest. Here the oldest living organisms – trees, or Ents if you will, have live for thousands of years. The oldest tree here is 4,300 years old and is aptly named Methuselah. The ride
up to the visitor’s center, at over 10,000 feet high, was incredible – full of twists, tight turns, hairpins and some serious ups and downs. It was worth every mile and we ended up spending hours that day with our ancient friends. Up here it was an almost chilly 60 degrees, down below it was near 100! Back on 395 we fired north and past Little Lake the terrain began to change, the sparse pine trees became pine forests and the temperatures slowly and steadily dropped to a more rideable zone. We found a late lunch at Tom’s Place, an old resort that has withstood the test of time and is just about considered a town by California.
Continuing on we rode in the shadow Tioga Pass and past Yosemite and around Mono Lake. Formed some 750,000 years ago this desert lake has an unusually productive ecosystem based on brine shrimp that thrive in its waters, and provides critical nesting habitat for two million annual migratory birds that feed on the shrimp.
It also has a bizarre look that some of you might recognize from Clint Eastwood’s High Plains Drifter. By evening time we found the town of Bridgeport, and the Bridgeport Inn, circa1890’s as well. Mark Twain once stayed in the very room we had the key for. Checking in Shira got the low-down on some hot springs just a few miles outside of town. With more than enough daylight we two-upped on the GS as we were told there was a few miles of dirt. Dirt? No, more like deep sand. We made it to the first pool only to find it dry. We were told that maybe a few miles further on we would have better luck. With the GS shod with the new Metzler Tourance street tires this would be an effort in stupidity and we turned around, me trying my best to ride like ‘Jimmy
BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013 Lewis’ and ending up more like ‘Jerry!’ Full on knobbies were called for here. Later that evening we strolled the town to find that the court house – second oldest in California – had been taken over by hundreds of swallows and all the rafters and gutters were full of swallow nests. At dusk they darted to and fro in a surreal flight. Very bizarre. Back at the Bridgeport Inn their restaurant was full but the bar light and we shared some desserts and played the old Wurlitzer juke box that still used 45’s. Twenty-five cents a tune? How can one beat that these days?
Bridgeport to Klamath Falls We awoke to cooler weather than what we had so far on this tour and we made the best of it as we continued up 395 along the Walker River; a stunning clear blue cascade that looked almost primeval. The road was pretty awesome too! Our plan was to vector up Route 89 towards Markleeville, but a large bicycle race had closed the pass and our route. We went for Plan B, which sped us into Nevada alongside Topaz Lake and then we made our way west to Lake Tahoe over the Kingsbury Grade from Carson Valley. Lake Tahoe is stunning, but overdeveloped and we couldn’t get away from it quick enough. A better idea was to ride to the California town of Truckee and stop for a
Page 29 smashing breakfast at their local diner – Jax by the Tracks. We first heard of this joint on Diners, Drive-Ins & Dives and I was glad I remembered it was there. Guy was not wrong – it was a trip to Flavortown! Riding along Route 89, heading north, the Tahoe Forest offered a journey through some excellent large pines and soon the terrain roughened out to become more desert than forest. California seems fickle this way. We fueled up in Quincy, a town we visited a couple years back for the Beemer Bash and then rode along Route 70 mimicking the old mountain railroad with its long delicate trestles alongside the rushing Feather River. We stopped in Adin, at the General Store for ice cream & sodey pops, and then were given a ‘short cut’ by a local to our late afternoon destination - the Lava Bed National Monument. Unfortunately she forgot to mention it was through a lot of beauty and little else and soon we were off looking for fuel, which we luckily did in Tionesta – the oddest bar, town & fuel stop we had ever ridden into. More like a ghost town than something operational we were about dry and very glad the woman turned the pump on for us. Yup, quirky place, but we’d happily pay cash for some gas. The Lava Bed National Monument is a very unique place and it has the largest concentration of lava tube caves in North America.
OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
Page 30 We got there after the Visitor’s Center was closed but a volunteer showed us the way to one of the many lava tubes this park is famous for. The lights were still on so we walked down the steep stairs and took a ten-minute
stroll in a tube that was formed by a river of syrupy lava some 40,000 years ago. Lava Beds National Monument is geologically outstanding because of its great variety of “textbook” volcanic formations including: lava tube caves; fumaroles; cinder cones; spatter cones; pit craters; hornitos; maars; and lava flows and volcanic fields. It is really an amazing place to spend far more time than we could that evening as the sun was setting and we wanted to make it into Oregon by nightfall. An hour or so later we rolled into Klamath Falls for the night.
Klamath Falls to The Dalles Our morning run brought us to the famed Crater Lake. Formed almost a half a million years ago when Mount Mazama erupted the giant caldera has a constant supply of snow in the winter which has created one of the most stunning lakes in North America, perhaps on the planet as it is the 7th deepest lake on Earth as well. The Klamath tribe of Native Americans have long regarded the lake as a
sacred site. Their legends tell of a battle between the sky god Skell and Llao, the god of the underworld. Mount Mazama was destroyed in the battle, creating Crater Lake. The Klamath people used Crater Lake in vision quests, which often involved climbing the caldera walls and other dangerous tasks. Those who were successful in such quests were often regarded as having more spiritual powers. The tribe still holds Crater Lake in high regard as a spiritual site. If you see it in person you might be moved spiritually as well. Speaking of spirituality, we dropped in on the Visitors Center, pressed a shiny new penny and bought a Crater Lake Baseball for the collection. America. We then did a loop around the lake stopping at some vistas without the big crowds that congregate on the north rim and along some deep snow back that still remains in July. Moving onward we rode back into Oregon’s High Desert where the temperatures went in the other direction and soon touched the century mark. Heading ever north we could see the mighty snow-capped peaks of a number of mountains. We argued over the Cardos, which mountain was which, and soon we passed a sign telling us a ‘Mountain Identifier’ was a ¼ mile up the road. Here Oregon has set up a small stone display to point out the peaks, Jefferson, Hood and Adams being the most dominate.
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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013
Along the way we were reminded of this land’s ancient and violent past. Oregon has many ‘Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway’ signs and once again lava beds dominated the sides of the road. Along the way we crossed the Crooked River. Here a deep and wide gorge, some 300 feet high kept natives and settlers at bay till the early 1900’s when the first of three bridges was built opening up this part of Oregon. The newest bridge is on Route 97 and is named after Rex Barber, the fighter Ace who shot down and killed Admiral Yamamoto on April 18, 1943 – the basic World War II equivalent of getting Bin Laden today. Barber lived up this way and at one time he even flew a new P80 Shooting Star underneath two of the bridges. The newest one is named after him. When we went to leave I saw Shira’s head spring up as two classic Datsun 2000 Roadsters pulled in. Shira had one herself when she lived in California and I could see why she still loves that car. Most of today’s ride, especially north of Crater got a tad straight, but we played the “Passing Game” and made the best of it. This all changed when we leaned into Route 197 that runs from the Tygh Valley, over the Wasco Hills along miles of golden wheat fields, and then sadly ends riding down to the Columbia River Gorge, just east of The Dalles. It was here that Lewis & Clark were nearly at the end of their journey- searching for the Northwest Passage. A little history lesson here for those of you who are curious. The Lewis and Clark Expedition, also known as the Corps of Discovery Expedition, was the first American expedition to cross what is now the western portion of the United States, departing in May, 1804 from St. Louis on the Mississippi River, making their way westward through the continental divide to the Pacific coast. The expedition was commissioned by President Thomas Jefferson shortly after the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, consisting of a select group of U.S. Army volunteers under the command of Captain Meriwether Lewis and his close friend Second Lieutenant William Clark. Their perilous journey lasted until Sept. 1806. They reached this part of the Columbia River in the winter of 1805, just down the shore from what is now a bustling little city. We had dinner that evening watching the setting sun painting the bridge leading into Washington state and the Dalles Dam.
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The Dalles to Port Angeles Just west of The Dalles is a loop that runs over the semitown of Rowena. For some unknown reason this part of Historic US 30, which just cries for riders, was empty this day as we circled up to the crest overlook. Curvy, fun and exciting – just like our sis Rowena – this piece of asphalt was an excellent way to start the day.
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We soon crossed over into the Evergreen State of Washington and headed west a bit along the Lewis & Clark Highway before riding north into the Gifford Pinchot Forest. These roads went for miles
the most notable the local named Harry Truman, who had run the local lodge at the base of the mountain since 1926. Nearly 7,000 big game animals (deer, elk, and bear) were killed, and an estimated 12 million fish from local hatcheries. It destroyed or extensively damaged over 200 homes, 185 miles of highway and 15 miles of railways. In 1982 President Reagan declared it a National Park and today it has become a must see while riding in the region. The day we were there, a small plume of steam still could be seen rising
through one of the most pristine forests I had ever ridden through and eventually we found the one road we were searching for and began the climb on 99. This National Forest Road rose higher and higher and coming around one turn the pristine forest was vaporized before my eyes and what was left was utter destruction. Unlike everything else in this story that seems so ancient, this was something many of us remember. In the year of the thirty-three year anniversary we rode to the infamous Mount Saint Helens. On May 18, 1980 the volcano erupted and destroyed everything in the blast’s path. Spewing some 520 million tons of rock, debris and ash the fallout reached Idaho in just hours. The eruption killed 57 people,
from the very active volcano. Both Shira and I were humbled by the sheer magnitude of what had happened just a few decades ago. Our plan was to loop the Olympic peninsula, riding up along the western shores of Puget Sound; so we made good time north towards where the United States ends and Canada begins.
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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013
Still we managed to find a quaint little coffee shop in Hoodsport for a break and followed up along the 101 finally getting into Port Angeles by evening and scoring a room with a Puget view. We had gone as far as you could go without leaving the US. Tomorrow we would begin to loop around the Olympic National Park and then begin the journey south to the BMW MOA Rally - the rally…remember that, that was what we came for, right?
Port Angeles, Washington to Astoria, Oregon “HEY YOU GUYS!!!” Unlike most of our days that went from route to route, today would be simple….US 101 west and then south. The good part was that it would run us right through Olympic National Park and the rain forest hidden there. Things were just peachy till we spotted the sign for Cape Flattery – the most northwestern point in the contiguous 48 US States. Plan B went into immediate effect. Truth is this was a far better ride
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Page 33 as it mimicked the coastline with its rises and falls, the great Strait of Juan Fuco crossing over to Vancouver Island. Cape Flattery is the oldest permanently named feature in Washington state, being described and named by James Cook on March 22, 1778. Cook wrote: “...there appeared to be a small opening which flattered us with the hopes of finding an harbour... On this account I called the point of land to the north of it Cape Flattery.” We arrived after a stunning morning ride along some wonderfully twisty road to a dead end that had a trail marked Cape Flattery. There were signs that a mountain lion had been seen patrolling the forest and to be wary. Here kitty, kitty… The pleasant 15-minute hike was well rewarded with stunning views and the knowledge that we had tagged another corner of our nation. It was as stunning as you could believe. The hike back up was less so. I think Lewis & Clark made better time. I almost hoped the cougar would show up and end this death march to civilization. Back on the bikes we doubled back and took lunch in the town of Forks, Washington. Yes, you ‘Twilight’ fans – that Fork, Washington. But, being it was daytime we had nothing to worry about vampires. Our last foray along the park was the Hoh Rain Forest. The lush forests in the Hoh, and Bogachiel valleys are some of the most spectacular examples of primeval temperate rain forest in the lower 48 states. These rain forests once stretched from southern Oregon to south-
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Finally crossing over the Astoria-Megler Bridge which stretches some 4 miles across the mouth of the Columbia River. Its construction was an impressive feat. The bridge’s main span is 1,232 feet in length, the longest “continuous truss” in the nation. The winds were mighty impressive too as we rolled into Astoria for the night. For me this meant a lot as I grew up in and around Astoria in New York. This Astoria is the oldest city west of the Mississippi, but I love it for the movie The Goonies… who wouldn’t?
Astoria to Portland east Alaska, but little remains outside of protected areas. Other temperate rain forests grow in a few isolated spots around the world including Chile, New Zealand and southern Australia.
We had a short ride this day, just west to Portland and to visit our cousin Howard for a day. But, before we left we had to spend a few hours exploring Astoria. First we had to find a few things Goonie and we did with the house they discovered the map in and buying a few shirts at the Oregon Film Museum’s tiny gift shop, housed in the old jail.
This day we simply took a ride in and around the place; not getting off the bike lest somebody suggested another hike. Constantly fed moisture from the Pacific this region is one of the most lush in all of North America and well worth the visit. From there we sped south towards Astoria…. Not Queens.
We had heard that the coolest breakfast in Astoria was found at the Columbia Café. And, it was. They have an attached old-style reel movie theatre and one of Backroads’ Top-10 coolest bars on the planet…the Voodoo Room.
BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013 We couldn’t leave Astoria before taking a ride to see the Astoria Column. It sits in a wooded area 600 feet above sea level on Coxcomb Hill, Astoria, Oregon’s highest point. Patterned after the Trajan Column in Rome, the Astoria Column is truly unique. It's the world's only large piece of memorial architecture made of reinforced concrete with a pictorial frieze in sgraffito technique. The column presents a fascinating illustration of the discovery of the Columbia River by Captain Robert Gray in 1792, the
Page 35 establishment of American claims to the Northwest Territory, the winning of the West and the arrival of the Great Northern Railway. The Column, built in 1926, is 125 feet high and has 164 steps winding to the top. As it was overcast this day (when isn’t it in Astoria) we opted out of the upward trek. Our ride that we created brought us away from the local highways and along the hilly backroads that surround the region. We stopped at an Elk viewing spot and then made our way quickly into Portland and Howard’s home. Shira brought us in search of famed ice cream at Salt & Straw, considered one of the top ten in the United States (and thus the world of ice cream). They didn’t disappoint. We did dinner at a local brewpub and then got ready for the short blast in the AM to the MOA Rally in Salem – just 50 or so miles south and a story for another day.
OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
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2013 BMW F800GT • Has the perfect mid-sized touring machine finally arrived? “Short people got no reason…” such were the words Randy Newman sang and sometimes, being a shorter motorcyclist, I feel the might of his words. Over the years I have had many different rides and almost all had to be altered in one way or another to make it just right. Like Little Red Riding Hood some machines were too big, some too small. But, after spending nearly 4,000 miles touring the northwest on this machine, I think BMW got the F800GT just right. The F800GT is a new machine and not an upgraded or changed ST. The ST was fine, but the GT (for Grand Tourismo) is far better in every way. Yes, the GT still has the same 798cc water-cooled, DOHC, parallel-twin engine, the same very slick 6-speed gearbox and reliable belt-drive, but with some tweaks and remapping of the fueling the horsepower has been increased to 90. The exhaust has been lifted from the F800R and offers the GT a sweet, but easy tone. Although the frame is the same the swing arm is about two inches longer, adding a bit more high-speed stability than the ST, and its capacity load is up almost 25 lbs. to some 456 lbs, just a little less than the bike’s weight of 470 lbs. It felt very nimble and planted at the spirited pace we were keeping most of the trip. In the twists and tight curves, it performed perfectly and I felt one with the ride underneath me. The ABS has been upgraded as well and now utilizes BMW’s new dual channel system.
The machine rode on Continental Road Attack 2 120/70-17 tire up front and a wide 180/55-17 on the rear, mounted on 10-spoke cast aluminum very sharp looking new wheels. There is also a $250 optional Tire Pressure Monitor that is neatly integrated into the instrument display. The fairing is large and even the stock screen offered a shorter ride like myself some decent protection. The instruments and turn signal, which is now a traditional single switch on the left, has also been given a makeover with the on-board computer display, and electronic bar readings for fuel level and engine temperature come with the bike, and the new gauges were both stylish and visible. The high beam switch had me stymied for a minute or two, being placed in front of the left grip. The heated grips worked as designed and came in very handy when in higher elevations and most of the mornings in Oregon. Like the other F-bikes the fuel is found under the saddle and the four gallons it held easily brought me well over 200 miles before fuel stops. We were doing warp speeds on the long, straight stretches and much more than adequate paces on the mountain passes, and I was still getting an average of 50 mpg. Not bad at all, especially with the ridiculous gas prices in California. Fueling itself seemed
BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013 awkward, as the gas cap interior protrudes into the area where the fuel nozzle goes. This is especially problematic with nozzles that have a vapor recovery hood. What will stop me between fuel stops is the saddle. The stock seat is rock hard so a call to the aftermarket would be any smart girl’s first addition. The two other optional seats are comfort and lowered. Perhaps these are less torture. Other than that, ergonomically, the machine was a perfect fit for my 5 feet four inch frame. Our press ride came with BMW’s Automatic Safety Control (ASC) that prevents rear wheel spin in bad conditions. Something that I thought could be really useful at times. One the road I found this machine to be a real joy; it fit me well and the twin engine offered me plenty of power. In the twisties the GT was abundantly excellent, especially when I got used to switching the optional ESA (Electronic Suspension Adjustment) into different modes – Sport, Regular and Comfort. Brian got spanked more than once. And, when called on, the 320mm front discs and a single 265mm disc at the rear, along with the Brembo calipers had more muscle than I would ever need. The ABS works very well too. (Don’t ask) My ride came in a very complimentary Valencia Orange, but it is available in Dark Graphite metallic and Light White as well. The F800GT has a slick and sexy look that makes you want to ride it.
The BMW luggage, holding 15 gallons and up to 22 lbs each, easily held my gear for a full two weeks exploring the northwest and were a breeze to use. I did have issue with the design of the new bag. They incorporate a shelf and strap system intended to keep things from falling out when opening the bag, but it prevents the full stowage capacity to be used. Being a glove hound, I found this awkward space was perfect to stuff the extra three pair of gloves I brought. The right side bag, however, does hold a full-size helmet. At the BMW MOA International Rally in Salem Oregon, I noticed how much attention this bike drew. Even with the new water-cooled R1200GS parked next to it folks invariable came to me to ask what I thought. I thought very highly of it. Highly enough to add another machine to my stable? Maybe someday, but i Just made the last payment on my F650GS and I would like to spend that extra cash on more miles. One of the most asked questions on the new iteration of the F800 was the vibration and buzziness. Apparently the ST had quite a bit of this, but I found nothing on the GT. BMW added some insulation to minimize this effect and it seems to have done the trick. The BMW F800GT is at BMW dealers now and starts at a sticker price, for the base F800GT, of $11,890, but
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you will hardly ever find a base bike imported state-side, rather think what BMW will really import. The Standard Package gets the heated grips, centerstand, onboard computer and saddelbag mounts for $12,395; the bags are extra. The Premium Package adds ESA, ASC and a tire-pressure monitor for $13,190. This might be getting pricey for some but the BMW F800GT could possible be the best middle-weight touring ride on the planet and that could possibly be worth every penny. ~ Shira Kamil
OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
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Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival Backroads’ Tips, Suggestion and Thoughts on Long Distance Touring Last month we did a piece on “The List.” This month we want to bring up a number of items or habits you might want to fall into when long-distance touring. Now before we go anywhere let me define “Long-Distance Touring” compared with “Long Distance Riding.” Many know of the Iron Butt Association. We respect what they, the IBA kids, do… but we feel the spirit of riding and exploring the planet on motorcycle is lost when all you do is look at miles tick away on the odometer. What we are talking about is packing up the bikes and taking off for a few weeks and coming home with dozens of great memories and a few thousand miles behind you. We are about stopping and smelling the roses, palm trees or fresh beach breezes. Who wouldn’t? In July we did nearly 4,000 miles in the northwest. We took a couple weeks for this. Some LDRs might make this trip in 3.6 days, but would have missed so much. Along the way we met friends (female for the most part BTW) that had ridden from the east for the BMW National Rally. Now, they were really on an adventure and would surely agree with some of these suggestions. Long Distance Tourers for sure. Here are some thoughts for a successful and safe Long Distance Touring.
#1 Nourishment Eat every morning before kickstands are up. If you are staying at a hotel/motel that offers free breakfast grab a minimal bite. A yogurt, an orange or bagel…whatever! Just something to toss in your belly. You will be able to go all the way to a hungry and happy lunch this way.
#2 Fuel up each evening Fuel the night before you park the bike. We can’t stress this enough. It is so much better to get on a fully fueled bike in the morning (after a bagel or fruit) and ride on for 200 miles or so before lunch. Trust me on this.
#3 Keep an eye on your tires Have you looked at your tires lately? You might want to. Seriously, I know this schmuck that was touring the deep south for weeks, only to walk out of a Cracker Barrel on a Sunday morning to see that the glare from the metal chord shining past his burned out tires had taken down a 757. Oh yeah – that was me. Again. Hey, we are here to make your riding better, safer and more adventurous. It was Sunday… shops are generally closed on Mondays. Oh, and that few hundred mile ride to said shop for a begging on a Tuesday for new tires. Done and done and lesson learned. Check your tires every week and especially before a long few weeks on the road.
#4 Have a plan Plan your next day’s journey the night before. It is 2013. Please. If you don’t have a GPS I take it you don’t have a PC or cell phone. Invest in a high end GPS and learn to use the mapping programs. Don’t go to Staples, buy the cheapest GPS you can find and then wonder why our GPX files bounce off your unit like it was coated in armor.
BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013 Having paper maps (Manually Acquired Positioning Systems), electronic GPS and common sense (kinda important) makes every day’s ride that much better.
#5 Less is more Put out your clothes for packing for this LDT (Long Distance Tour) then cut them in half. I didn’t say gear - but clothes. ExOfficio, available from Whitehorsepress.com, washes clean every night and can cut down your baggage by half easily! Other easily packable and comfortable, stylish gear is out there as well. I would much rather have an extra ventilated jacket and “heated-gear” on any long tour than a third pair of Levis.
#6 Same old, same old On the road get into a ‘routine’. Be aware of where everything is for an emergency. Put all your stuff, whatever it is in the same place ALL THE TIME. If you need to find a pen, you should know where it and a notebook are. Bee-sting lotion, don’t end up scratching your helmet…. KNOW where everything is all the time. If you need an EpiPen, then you and your riding companions should best be aware of where it is stowed and how to use it. Even little things like reading glasses can be problematic if you ditch them in ten different spots. Get consistent and things will always run smoothly. The next two are key…
#7 Hydration I have said it again and again. Get a Camelpak or something comparable. You need to be hydrated even in the colder months. A little water here and there keeps your body, made of nearly 60% water, a happy camper and in LDT this makes a key point. But, we have even better….
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#8 Liquid Supplements on the road. Gatorade, Vitamin Water, and the like are excellent and bring to your body more than water alone can add. Our new favorite is Zipfizz, an all-natural, great tasting energy drink-mix powder that delivers a powerful charge of micronutrients to the body’s fuel system. It contains no ephedra or other artificial stimulants. Most people experience an immediate, revitalizing burst of energy after taking Zipfizz. Zipfizz is healthy energy in a tube! Give your body a rush of vitamins, minerals and key amino acids to protect the immune system. Zipfizz has created an advanced formula that provides a significant amount of vitamins, fewer calories, lower carbohydrates, superior taste, variety and unique packaging. Simply put, it’s different because it’s good for you! Bring along a tube and pour it into a ¾ bottle of water and you have the most serious drink in the USA; head to zipfizz.com for more information.
#9 A Real Tool Kit There is nothing worse than being broken down on the side of a lonely road with something you could fix, but can’t because the tool you need is 789.4 miles away in your really sweet Snap-On Tool Chest. We have to be reasonable here and understand that we can’t be ready for every situation, but remember issue #4? This is where that comes into play and a #5 torx wrench in my hand is far better than a button-down shirt at the restaurant that night. Come on kids we are riding bikes, not styling! Look at your ride and make sure you have just about everything for
CENTRAL VERMONT MOTORCYCLES Central Vermont Motorcycles is your first stop on the way to your next adventure. Located in the heart of the Green Mountains serving all of Vermont, Massachusetts, eastern New York and western New Hampshire. The perfect place to ride in the Autumn season. Stop by and check out our full line of Suzuki products.
Visit us online @ www.centralvermontmotorcycles.com At Suzuki, we want every ride to be safe and enjoyable. So always wear a helmet, eye protection and protective clothing. Never ride under the influence of alcohol or other drugs. Avoid excessive speeds. Never engage in stunt riding. Study your owner's manual and always inspect your Suzuki before riding. Take a riding skills course. For the course nearest you call the Motorcycle Safety Foundation at 1-800-446-9227.
OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
Page 40 minor break downs. Major ones… well, you’ll deal with it; but the light ones should and can be dealt with. And, split up the tools as weight affects suspension.
Again… Never ever, ever forget to bring your heated gear. The last thing you need is friends smirking warmly at you in 45 degree, raining Norway torrents.
#10 Buy, Bring and Wear Heated Gear
#11 Bring an Extra Key or Two
I once knew a guy that went to Norway and realized he didn’t bring his heated electric liner and gloves…. He was chided for two weeks by a friend, who he had repeatedly told to “always bring heated gear.” This poor schmuck. Oh yeah – that was me. Never ever, ever forget to bring your heated gear.
If you are riding with a partner or group let one of them hold on to the extra key. If you can bring two and have the other in a strategic place on the bike, it can keep you rolling along if fate steals your keys. We always have an extra key set on tour and we have never lost a key for more than a few minutes but are prepared if that happens. So, there you go, The List #2…. Think about it and get out and ride.
Bonus Quicky Big City Getaway • The 2013 Sussex County Sunflower Maze Now in its third year, the Sussex County Sunflower Maze is back. Sure you can find corn mazes all over the northeast, but a Sunflower Maze is a bit different and the one located near Skylands Park in Augusta, New Jersey is not just cool it is the largest such maze in the world – a full 70 acres big! You will find the field just north of Ross’ Corner (by the Chatterbox) on CR 565, opposite Roseline’s Farm & Bakery. Walking the trail through the maze – which spells out “ We Are Jersey Grown” – you are immersed in black oil sunflowers and bright yellow blossoms. This is an excellent place for riders and photographers and kids young and old. New this year for younger ones is a Scarecrow Building Contest and Photography contest as well. don’t wait to ride to the World’s largest sunflower maze as mother nature will end this show by late september or early october. For more information log onto www.sussexcountysunflowermaze.com.
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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013
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e have mentioned the hidden New Jersey treasure called Walpack Valley a number of times in Backroads and just recently we did a good day’s riding on a route created by our buddy Paul Donoghue that stuck to many dirt forest roads that are sprinkled around this region, now under the auspices of the NPS.
W
When we started talking about regions and areas that really show the fall colors we briefly talked about this valley, but one of our Autumn rides already started from nearby and we didn’t want to over do one region, when there is so much to see and do in the northeast during the fall.
Dirty Dancin’ Exploring Walpack Valley’s Fall Colors words and images: Brian Rathjen
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OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
Enjoy a picnic and the view at Crater Lake But I got to thinking about those with dual sports and adventure machines – the GS, KTM, VStrom, Tenere’ and KLR riders. Those riders who enjoy getting off the pavement. Now, for the most part the gravel in Walpack is fairly tame, unless you really vector into the wilderness, which is easily done. But, any talented rider on a street ride should be able to do this ride as well. It is just more confident and fun on a motorcycle created for such excursions. With that being the idea I did a little scoot in the beginning of September in and around the valley. The Walpack Valley is fairly remote and there is a reason for that. Back in the ‘60s there was an idea to dam this part of the Delaware River. The Tocks Island Dam was a huge multi-purpose reservoir project proposed for the Delaware River six miles upstream from the Delaware Water Gap. The project involved the purchase of 70,000 acres of land, construction of a 40-mile long lake with depths up to 150 feet with a storage capacity of 250 billion gallons of water. It would have been the largest dam project east of the Mississippi River. The dam was to have served four purposes: flood control, water supply, hydroelectric power
and recreation. The most exciting spin-off was that the project would have created a national recreation area serving both New York and Philadelphia metro areas including New Jersey. The Army corps were accused of having properties appraised at much lower values than they were actually worth. The Corps were demanding many sellers evacuate their properties immediately, even though the flooding would not take place for years. Families that had farms for generations along the Delaware were treated like second-rate citizens as the federal government rode roughshod over their lives. At least two landowners committed suicide. A number of other problems developed for the project. Costs for the dam began to mushroom in the late 1960’s and the Johnson Administration was mired in the escalating cost of the Vietnam War. In addition, ‘squatters, family communes and flower children’ began living along the Delaware in abandoned houses - others set up tents and teepees. Many Pocono residents resented the ‘hippies’ cultivating marijuana and living in the
Ironhorse Motorcycle Lodge is the Smoky Mountains Premier ‘Motorcycle-only’ resort. Located in the heart of the Smoky Mountains and minutes from all the great motorcycling roads like ‘Tail of the Dragon’, Cherohalla Skyway, Blue Ridge Parkway and Moonshiner 28. Amenities include on-premise restaurant for breakfast and dinner with creekside dining, covered bike parking, nightly group campfire, laundry, gift shop and WiFi DSL HotSpot. We have a pavilion with multimedia entertainment, private function meeting room, RV sites as well as rustic luxury cabins cabin rooms, bunkhouse and tent camping. Perfect for singles, couples or group getaways.
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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013
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homes that they had to vacate. Nude bathing and drug dealing was commonplace. On July 31, 1975 the Delaware River Commission voted 3 – 1 against the immediate construction of the Tocks Island Dam. Pennsylvania was the only state to approve the dam, while the federal government abstained. The Commission stopped the dam, but the true end of the project came in 1978 when Congress designated the section of the river that is within the recreation area as a ‘Wild and Scenic River’, in effect barring the construction of any dams at the Tocks Island site or anywhere along this section of the river. In 1992, the Tocks Island Dam Project was officially de-authorized by Congress. So here we are today, with miles and miles of the most scenic riding in the Garden State. So, if you have the right bike, or just feel that Gold Wing or Ultra Classic is up to the task, follow along with our Dirty Dancin’ Romp in the Walpack, as we go chasing the colors. We’ll do a bit of a loop here starting in Blairstown, New Jersey. The Blairstown Diner is a
fine place for breakfast, and was also the diner in the original Friday the 13th. For breakfast with an altitude you must try the Runway Diner at the nearby airport (follow the signs off Route 94 along Lambert Road) – you can have a super breakfast and watch the planes at the same time. From Blairstown follow up Millbrook Road - CR 602- to the Old Millbrook Village and make a right on NPS 615. A few miles down, at the ancient general store make a right and follow signs to Crater Lake. Eventually, at the crest of the mountain you will see a gravel road vectoring off to the left. This is the road that will bring you along the top of the Kittatiny Ridge and eventually along some striking marshes and to Crater Lake. Along the way, coming or going, make it a point to ride up one of the small pullouts to the east and take in the stunning view of northwestern New Jersey. In October the valley floor, from over 1,000 feet up, is on fire with autumn colors and this one view is worth the entire day. Further on you will wind up at Crater Lake. It is
Rip & Ride® - DIRTY DANCIN’ EXPLORING WALPACK VALLEY’S FALL COLORS
START: BLAIRSTOWN, NJ WHERE RTE. 94 AND CR 521 MEET TAKE MILLBROOK RD CR 602 TOWARD WALPACK VALLEY RIGHT AT VILLAGE ONTO NPS 615 RIGHT AT SIGNS FOR CRATER LAKE LEFT ON GRAVEL ROAD TO LAKE DOUBLE BACK DOWN TO NPS 615 FOLLOW SIGNS TO RIGHT AND BUTTERMILK FALLS STAY ON MOUNTAIN ROAD RIGHT AT TILLMAN ROAD TO TILLMAN RAVINE DOUBLE BACK TO MOUNTAIN ROAD AND MAKE RIGHT
THOSE ON LESS DIRTABLE MACHINES STAY ON TILLMAN ROAD TO NPS 615 AND MAKE RIGHT FROM GRAVEL MOUNTAIN RD MAKE RIGHT AT FISH & GAME TO NPS 615 PASS THROUGH PETER’S VALLEY LEFT ON ENNIS ROAD LEFT AT OLD MINE ROAD STAY ON OLD MINE TILL T RIGHT AT NPS 615 STRAIGHT AT NPS 606 TO I-80
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Page 44 said that this lake was formed from a small meteorite strike in the 1800’s. The boom was heard for 50 miles and it wasn’t till much later that the ‘new’ lake was discovered. Today it is a great place to stop and picnic. We’ll double back the way we came and make another right on NPS 615. We’ll bear to the right following signs to Buttermilk Falls. This too is gravel and gets a bit rougher before getting smoother once again. Buttermilk Falls, the tallest in the region, cascades spectacularly down the red shale face of the Kittatinny Ridge. It is the only waterfall in New Jersey, apart from Great Falls, with a developed viewing area: the National Park Service has erected
an interpretive display and built a wooden walkway to the top. If it has rained in the last day or two the falls can really be running strong and it is worth the hike to the top and the viewing platform. We’ll continue north on Mountain Road and make a right at the cemetery onto Tillman Road. Along this road you will find a few turnouts with facilities and it is well worth exploring, especially during the height of the foliage colors. Tillmans Ravine is one of New Jersey’s natural wonders, found where
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OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS Tillmans Creek flows through a gorge of giant hemlock trees, mountain laurels and ferns. The air becomes noticeably chillier when one enters the ravine, a “microclimate” for plants normally found only much further north. You will also find some impressive falls here as well. At the falls, Tillmans Creek slides and cascades, with one free-fall of about 10 feet, down the red rocks of the Kittatinny Ridge. Once again we will double back and make a right on the gravel Mountain Road, which gets more interesting for those on ADV machines and a bit more tricky if you have brought a touring bike here. In fact if you are on a street bike we recommend you stay straight of Tillman Road and ride through the Walpack ghost town and make a right on NPS 615, where both routes will converge. On Mountain Road you will come up on Fish & Game Road where you will make a left back to NPS 615 and then bear right towards Peter’s Valley Continue on past the Village and make a left on Ennis Road, from here on in there will be mostly gravel roads. Have fun! Ennis will run into Old Mine Road where you will make a left and continue on along the top of the ridge and past the Van Campen Inn, where an old fort once stood. In fact, if you are a hiker this entire valley is full of history from the native Lenape to the first European settlers to the Tocks Island Dam Project and beyond. We’ll stay on Old Mine Road till it finally swings around the ridge and drops back onto NPS 615, where you’ll make a hard left and carry on back. At Mill Brook Village, you will bear to the right on NPS 606 (still Old Mine Road) and head towards I-80, which you will pick up at the last exit in New Jersey, at the Delaware Water Gap, itself a regional wonder. From here you should easily be able to find your way home, but if we were you we would ditch the interstate as soon as possible and take the backroads. They are always more fun!
BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013
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UPCOM IN G EVENTS CAL ENDAR EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTING Every Sunday • Eastern Suffolk ABATE Breakfast Run. Crossroads Diner - Calverton NY. 10:30am. Eat and Ride After • 631-369-2221 Every Tuesday • The Ear - Spring St, NYC. Come meet some fellow riders and do some benchracing or whatever. 8pm-ish Third Tuesday • 7:30pm ABATE of the Garden State, North Jersey chapter. Black River Barn, 1178 Rt. 10 West, Randolph, NJ. 7:30pm. New members and all mc brands welcome. Help fight for rights as a motorcyclist in NJ! Alex Martinez 973-390-1918 Every Wednesday • Chelseas Restaurant/Pub, 1051 Rte. 22 East, Lebanon, NJ 6-9pm, weather permitting all summer • www.chelseasrestaurantpub.com
SEPTEMBER 2013
What’s Happening scrub your bike’s wheels, and make it spotless…all for FREE! All you need to do is arrive between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., check in at service and then relax with a hot cup of coffee (or hot cocoa) and a fresh donut! Complete details at www.bobsbmw.com. • 10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD • 301-497-8949 14 • Bus Ride to New York’s International Motorcycle Show from Bob’s BMW, Jessup, MD. Conveniently travel to the East coast’s biggest motorcycle show on a chartered bus among dozens of fellow enthusiasts! Tickets include round-trip transportation, a bagged lunch, admission to the show, and snacks to enjoy on the ride home. Tickets sell out every year so don’t delay. Complete details at www.bobsbmw.com 21 • Bob's BMW annual customer appreciated day! Get into the holiday spirit at Bob's while we say THANKS to our amazing customers for what we know is going to be another great year. Food, great company, door prizes and special holiday savings • 10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD • 301-497-8949 • www.bobsbmw.com
27-28 • Woodstock Harley-Davidson Rock the House Open House. Live Entertainment by Lex Grey Band, 2014 Demo Fleet Rides and More • 949 Route 28, Woodstock, NY • www.WoodstockHarley.com 28-29 • Rollin Fast Cycles Victory Demo Days. 104 Main St, Lebanon, NJ • 908-2369000 • www.RollinFast.com
Make-A-Wish Foundation® of New Jersey
OCTOBER 2013 1-2 • Motorcycle Mall Victory Demo Days •12-6:30pm. 655 Washington Ave, Belleville NJ • 973-751-4545 • www. MotorcycleMall.com 4-5 • Victory Metuchen Victory Demo Days. Free Demo rides all day • 911 Middlesex Ave, Metuchen, NJ • 732-491-2900 • www.VictoryMetuchen.com 4-6 • Race of Gentlemen in the Wildwoods. Vintage Motorcycle and Car Drag Racing on the Beach. Partially sponsored by Harley-Davidson of Long Branch. For full details visit www.TheRaceOfGentlemen.com 5 • Bob’s BMW Project Bike Auction, Bob’s BMW Annex Location, 10630 Briggs Hill Rd, Unit Y, Jessup, MD. If you’re a D.I.Y. guy, this is your chance to get the BEST VALUE on a BMW! Affordable used bikes that need a little TLC will be up for auction! Arrive for inspection and questions between 10 and noon. Auction, led by Steve Dance Auctions, begins promptly at noon. Complete details at www.bobsbmw.com • Questions? Email hanna.creekmore@bobsbmw.com 5 • Woodstock Harley-Davidson presents Hudson Valley’s Regional Chili Cookoff. 12-4pm • $7 tasting fee. 949 Rte. 28, Kingston, NY • 845-338-2800 • www.woodstockhd.com 5 • Morton’s BMW Oktoberfest Open House. Enjoy demo rides, great deals, vendors and product reps, food, music, limited edition commemorative t-shirt, even stuff for your kids. Morton’s BMW, 5099A Jefferson Davis Hwy, Fredericksburg, VA • 540-891-9844 • www.mortonsbmw.com 5-6 • Max BMW presents Colors in the Catskills and GS-Fest at Hunter Mountain, NY. Oktoberfest food and fun, demo rides, two competitive ride events and a GS skill park. FREE. For full details visit www.MaxBMW.com 5 • Liberty Harley-Davidson 15th Anniversary Bash. 10am-5pm. • 12 W. Milton Ave, Rahway, NJ • 732-381-2400 • www.LibertyHarley.com 12 • Riders for a Rare Disease Bike Run to benefit Jason Nd Justin Leider. Sign in: Applebees, 186 Passaic St, Garfield, NJ 8-10am • Ride leaves 10:30am. $20/rider • $10/passenger • $20/walk in BBQ Bash incl. coffee and bagels at sign in, full police escorted ride, all you can eat BBQ. BBQ open to public at Noon. For full information about Jason and Justin’s rare and fatal genetic disease visit www.LetThemBeLittleX2.com • tickets and info: 201-773-3077 19 • Liberty Harley-Davidson Blood Drive • 1-5pm • 12 W. Milton Ave, Rahway, NJ • 732-381-2400 • www.LibertyHarley.com 20 • American Spirit MC Annual Tombstone Tour. Sign in/Endsite: Hicksville VFW, 320 S Broadway, Hicksville NY. 9-10am. Ends 4pm. $20/rider • $10/passenger to benefit Hicksville Post of hte Veterans of Foreigh Wars. Food, music, prizes. 516-644-1106 • www.americanspiritmcinc.com 20 • 8th Annual Ridgewood Fall Motorcycle Classic at the Office in Ridgewood, 32-34 Chestnut St, Ridgewood, NJ. 1-4pm Music, Food, Raffle Prizes and more. $20 bike entry in by 2pm • 60+ police escorted ride: sign in @ Bergen County Harley-Davidson, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ 10-11am. Ride leaves 11:30 SHARP. $20 rider/$10 passenger. All proceeds benefit the Tomorrow’s Children’s Fund • 201-843-6939 X133
presents the 25th annual
Harvey C. Irons Make-A-Wish Ride Hosted by BLUE KNIGHTS NJ IX
Sunday Oct. 20th * * * START/END LOCATIONS * * * sign up starts 9am at the
Chatterbox Drive-In, Rte. 15, Augusta, NJ Enjoy coffee, doughnuts and fresh bagels. Escorted ride leaves at 11:00am
SHARP!
HAMBURG FD PAVILION, Rte. 23, Hamburg, NJ Come back from the ride and enjoy Live Entertainment, vendors, charity auction and unlimited food. Lunch & drink included in the $20.00 pp registration fee. Children under 12 are free.
d ione anct S A AM
NO P ETS AL
L
OW ED More info at BKNJIX.org Call 973-729-4072 • email mlittle_2@msn.com
20 • Harvey C Irons Make-A-Wish Ride hosted by Blue Knights NJ IX. Sign in: 9am ride leaves 11am SHARP. Chatterbox Drive-In, Augusta, NJ • $20/person incl. coffee, doughnuts, bagels, live entertainment, vendors, charity auction and unlimited food.. Endsite: Hamburg FD Pavilion, Rte. 23, Hamburg, NJ • 973-729-4072
www.beemerboneyard.com
26 • Liberty Harley-Davidson Halloween Celebration with World Famous Voodoo Chili, and prize for best costume • 12 W. Milton Ave, Rahway, NJ • 732-381-2400 • www.LibertyHarley.com
USED OILHEAD & K-BIKE PARTS
NOVEMBER 2013 23 • Bob's BMW Preparation for Winter Riding Tech Session/Tutorial • 11am-1pm • Enjoy a hot cup of coffee and a donut while learning what you can do to prepare you and your bike for winter riding. Tech Session in Service will include important reminders and interesting tips to consider when riding in colder weather and potentially more hazardous conditions. Meet the National Sales Rep from Gerbings Heated Gear for a complete product tutorial and much more! Complete details at www.bobsbmw.com. • 10720 Guilford Rd, Jessup, MD • 301-497-8949
DECEMBER 2013 14 • Bob’s BMW Free Bike Wash •Are you a true year around rider? If so, ride to Bob’s Service Department on this frigid December day and let us rinse the salt off your bike,
Hundreds of used parts at 50% off new cost or less Order online 24/7 ~ M/C, Visa, Discover or PayPal 100% money-back guarantee ~ parts ship in 24 hours
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OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
Page 46
MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE
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Specializing in Motorcycle Repair, Parts & Supplies • Cycle Tires Mounted & Balanced • Batteries & Hard
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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013
Page 47
MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE
ALL THAT GOOD STUFF
The Riverton
Ye Olde Landmark Tavern 5 Spacious Rooms starting at $90.00 Tavern and Dining Room Menu
Travel along the scenic backroads of the Delaware river. Meet the Markopoulos family and taste chef George’s Greek American cooking. Best bar menu, lunch or dinner. Fresh poppers, perogies, calamari, clams and crispy wings with 8 different sauces.
Tues. thru Sat. 11am-10pm Sunday: Breakfast 9am-Noon Lunch and Dinner served until 9pm
John, Christina, chef George and Eoanna welcome you and your friends.
The Riverton Hotel and Restaurant
Serving Hours: Mon-Thurs: 5-9pm Fri-Sat: 5-9:30pm Sunday: 1-8pm Seasonal April ~ December Member of
Featured in ‘We’re Outta Here’ Sept. 2011 In the heart of great riding • Between Syracuse and Utica
Member of
Cooperstown • Finger Lakes • State Forests
At Belvidere-Riverton Free Bridge, Riverton, PA
610-498-4241 • www.rivertonhotel.com
Route 20, Bouckville, NY • 315-893-1810 • www.yeoldelandmark.com
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123 Bantam Lake Rd.
at the Blairstown Airport
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‘50s-Style Drive-In Restaurant Full and Varied Menu Room for the Whole Gang Summer is almost over but the riding isn’t. Come hang out at
THE CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN GREAT FOOD • GOOD TIMES • EXCELLENT RIDING Located at Ross’ Corners • 1 Route 15 • Augusta NJ • 973-300-2300
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The Boat House Restaurant Join us for Brunch, Lunch or Dinner overlooking Swartswood Lake
As featured in June ‘10 Backroads’ BBQs
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OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
Page 48
MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE
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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013
Page 49
MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE
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When the Road Calls the Journey Begins
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Comfort Inn & Suites 334 Caroline St (James Madison Hwy), Orange, VA 22960 540-672-3121 • www.comfortinn.com/hotel-orange-virginia-VA657
OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
Page 50
American • Metric • Sport • Parts & Accessories • Award-winning Service • Performance Work • Dyno Tuning • S&S Pro Tuning Center • Power Commander Tuning Center
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BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS ROADTECH B1 FOR BMW MOTORCYCLES FROM CRUZTOOLS Let’s face it. Motorcycles these days barely come with a screwdriver and wrench as a tool kit. Most riders end up creating their own tool kits and I have always brought along plenty of tools when traveling and touring, but one instance with Shira touring solo made it apparent that she had little with her on the road tool-wise. Rather than cannibalize my tool caddy yet again we turned to the pros for a better solution for a complete tool kit. One specifically created for today’s BMW machines. BMW motorcycles are legendary for innovation, and their choice of fasteners are no exception. Female star fasteners are commonplace, and some models even use rare male star screws. Add special wrench and hex key needs, and it becomes clear that a unique tool kit is called for. The folks at CruzTools exceeded these needs with the new RoadTech B1 for BMWs, which packs top grade tools and other roadside items into a sturdy roll-up pouch. In the RoadTech B1 you’ll find four combination wrenches 8, 10, 12 & 13 mm, a small vice grip, a complete set of both metric Torx and Allen keys, a socket set 8, 10, 12 & 13 mm, an air pressure gauge, adjustable wrench and electrical tape and a selection of zip ties. There is even a small tube of loctite in the rolled-up pouch. You will also find a wrench specifically to turn male Torx bolt sizes 10 & 12. CruzTOOLS products are available from Powersports dealers and distributors worldwide. If not available locally, ask your favorite dealer to carry them. You can also order direct, but please give your business to any local dealer who has earned it. You can also get CruzTools products from major national retailers, including Cabelas, Rider Wearhouse, and Whitehorse Press. The B1 retails for $119.95 If you choose to order direct, you can call them toll-free at 888-909-8665 or find them and other superb tool products on the web at cruztools.com
SPOT GEN 3 • INQUIRING FAMILY AND FRIENDS WANT TO KNOW These days, when folks are on a long tour, there is a good chance that family and friends will want to be able to see where they are and have been. To make sure you’re safe and to know you can get help if you need it - especially if you are touring alone. Enter the Spot Gen3 – the third incarnation of the personal GPS tracker. SPOT Gen3 offers enhanced functionality with more tracking features, improved battery performance and more power options including rechargeable and USB direct line power. SPOT is part of an award-winning product line that provides an affordable and vital line of communication with friends, family and emergency assistance on any adventure, from canoeing to hiking to snowmobiling. The Spot Gen3 has unlimited tracking – riders can pre-set SPOT Gen3 to send tracks at the speed of their adventures with options to send every 5, 10, 30, or 60 minutes. We have been testing the new spot Gen3 and on our return home it showed us exactly where we had been riding. It does not follow the exact road however; just straight lines show where we were at each tracking spot. Extreme Tracking - The features of Unlimited Tracking, but with the added ability to vary the track rate down to every 2 ½ minutes. Perfect for motorcyclist riding off the beaten track or on faraway backroads. All this is Motion Activated as the SPOT Gen3 sends tracks at a chosen rate for as long as the device is turned on and moving. When you stop it will stop transmitting until you are on the move again. The new Gen3 has a far longer battery life, with approximately twice as long as previous SPOT devices with new power options including 4 AAA Energizer Ultimate Lithium 8x batteries (L92), 4 AAA Energizer NiMH rechargeable batteries (NH12), or Line Power with a 5v USB connection. On a long tour the USB is the way to go. Around the globe over 2,400 rescues have been attributed to SPOT. SPOT Gen 3 offers the same safety assurance that all SPOT devices are renowned for. With the push of a button, SPOT users can: Alert for rescue, transmitting an S.O.S. notification with GPS location to GEOS International Emergency Response Coordination Center. Check In, letting others know they are OK and have arrived safely. Track, sharing their GPS location in real-time via Google Maps. Message, sending custom messages to family and friends regardless of cell coverage. SPOT satellite coverage works around the world, including Canada, continental United States, Mexico, Europe, Australia, Northern and Central Africa, portions of South America and North-Eastern Asia as well as hundreds of thousands of miles offshore of these areas. SPOT Gen3 retails for $149.95 MSRP plus a required annual subscription service starting at $149.99 per year with upgraded service plans available. SPOT is available at retailers nationwide and you can find a complete list of retailers carrying SPOT products, visit FindMeSpot.com.
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OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
Page 52
e don’t know about you but we love the Fall riding season. Crisp mornings and warmer afternoons make for an excellent day on the road. With that in mind we chose three separate rides covering a few different states, each specifically bringing you to some great leaf peeper regions, but we’ll do our best to try to avoid the civilian leaf peepers. So follow along with us and let’s go chasing the colors…
W
Three Peaks
Some of the best views of the colors can be found way up high and there are three peaks that offer a great view for miles around and from a good deal of height - Sunrise Mountain and High Point State Park, in northwest New Jersey and ElksBrox Memorial Park across the nearby border of New York.
Sunrise Mountain
Just off Route 206 in Sussex county, New Jersey you will find Stokes State Forest. Bearing right off this main thoroughfare the ride up to the top of Sunrise Mountain is a one-way affair, so you will not have to worry about oncoming traffic on this narrow and woodsy road. Stokes State Forest was created in 1907 when Governor Edward Stokes donated 500 acres of land on Kittatinny Mountain and the State of New Jersey purchased 5,432 acres of land. Due to the governor’s generous donation, the forest was named Stokes State forest. The forest started with 5,932 acres of land and through the years, additional purchases were made to bring the forest to over 16,000 acres. Trails though the forest were made in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps as well as white pine trees being planted. During the 19th century the forests in New Jersey were cut down for farming and for lumber. Stokes was created to preserve the forests on Kittatinny Mountain. We’re glad that they did this, as the forest and the view from the top are stunning. Sunrise mountain is the second highest point in New Jersey, being 1,653 feet high and second to High Point a few miles away - another great viewing spot as well. We’ll continue down this one-way road till we break back out onto the small farm roads that sprinkle the region and continue onto the highest point in the Garden State.
High Point State Park
At 1803 feet high this is the most altitude you can ride to in New Jersey and the view near the 220 foot high monument is spectacular as you can easily see the farmlands of New Jersey, across to the Poconos of Pennsylvania and up towards the Catskills of New York. If the monument is open it is well worth the effort to ascend to the top for an even grander view. Both Sunrise Mountain and High Point lie in and around the Appalachian Trail, which runs some 2,200 miles from Springer Mountain in Georgia and Mount Katahdin in Maine. It is not usual to encounter intrepid hikers making their way north or south along this American icon. Riding back down to Route 23, we’ll make a left and head into Port Jervis, New York. Following the signs towards Route 97 bear to the right and head up Elks-Brox Memorial Park, the third in this troika of peak peaks.
Fall Foliage Fun Three Routes that Highlight The Colors of Autumn
BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013
Elk-Brox Memorial Park
It was during the Gilded Age, from 1880-1920, that the entire nation began to yearn for open spaces that were fast disappearing as the west was being settled. It was during this time that the National Park system and Forest Reserves were being created by the U.S. Congress and the Catskill and Adirondack preserves were being created by New York State. Port Jervis has long associated itself with the Catskill and Shawangunk mountains. Its proximity to the forested wild areas was cause for great self promotion. In one brochure, it was called the “Scenic Queen of the Shawangunk Range.” It was also during the Gilded Age that the largest park in the city was developed, the Elks-Charles Brox Memorial Park, located on what was then called the Twin Mountain Tract, or Point Peter and Mount William. As early as 1911, local citizens became concerned with the future of the property that overlooked the city and had an important view of the Shawangunk and Kittatinny mountains, along with the Delaware and Neversink river valleys. At that time, the owner, Almira St. John Mills had just died, and the property was about to be disposed of by her estate. Port Jervis residents turned down a proposal to buy it, by a vote of 191123, but, immediately after the vote, Port Jervis Lodge No. 645 of the Benevolent and Protective Order of Elks began discussions to purchase the property. In 1914, the Elks, seeing the possibilities of the development of the area as a public park, raised the necessary funds to purchase the tract. The property was named Elks Park and it offers yet another great view from high above. At peak times the colors along the Delaware River, the panoramic vistas of the Neversink Valley and surrounding area are an artist’s palette of hues. When done at Elks-Brox you might like to ride up along the river on Route 97, take in the Hawks nest and maybe lunch at Cedar Rapids, where good food can always be found.
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River Run to New Hope
We have always enjoyed a good run down along the river to a slightly crowded and over-priced tourist trap called New Hope, Pennsylvania. But, the trick is to steal a day off and do it during the mid-week, when the roads are clear and the town is near empty. There are many way to get to this part of Bucks County, but we want the entire Delaware River / Fall Foliage experience so our ride will start at the Dingmans Ferry Bridge and head south.
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OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
Page 54 Riding down Route 209 south bear left on Community Drive and then again on River Road towards the Water Gap and I-80. River Road, if you have never ridden on it before, is a true roller coaster of delight as it meanders its narrow width along the contours of the river. At the interstate roll onto Route 611 south and continue down the river. Where 611 bears to the right you continue south on River Road. At Martins Creek Highway you can make a left, and if you are hungry the Riverton Restaurant is right here and ready to serve you lunch. Martins Creek Highway will run back into Route 611 south through Easton, and eventually this meet up with Route 32. During this part of the season this entire ride will be swaddled in colors and during the right time of the week you will almost have the entire road to yourself. New Hope has dozens of quirky, cool and interesting shops and restaurants abound. If you like there are also plenty of inns and B & Bs in the area to overnight as well.
A Tale of Two Trails The Taconic and Mohawk Trails
Although these roads share the same number designation – Route 2 – they go by two different monikers- The Taconic and Mohawk Trails. The Taconic Trail begins in Rensselaer County, New York and winds its way east over the Berkshires and into Massachusetts. Along the way you will pass the town of Grafton and, if you want to see something really cool, follow the signs to the Peace Pagoda. A Peace Pagoda is a Buddhist stupa; a monument to inspire peace, designed to provide a focus for people of all races and creeds, and to help unite them in their search for world peace. The one in Grafton is inspiring indeed and a must see while exploring the region. Continuing on towards ‘The Bay State’ the road rises high along the forests and open space and the colors are spectacular. The road also gets more interesting along this section. When you reach Route 7 make a left and head into Williamstown. Keep following Route 2 through this college town and then follow up
THREE PEAKS FALL FUN
1269 DOLSONTOWN RD MIDDLETOWN NY 10940
65-MILE ONE-WAY RIDE GPS: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/PRO/DL/icq2k9
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START: CHATTERBOX DRIVE-IN RTES. 206/15, AUGUSTA, NJ LEFT OUT CHATTERBOX ON RTE 206 SOUTH RIGHT AT PRICE RD LEFT AT AUGUSTA HILL RD LEFT AT CR 519 RIGHT AT CR 626 LEFT AT T CR 626 STRAIGHT UP HILL CR 521 STAY ON CR 521 TILL RTE 206 LEFT AT RTE 206 RIGHT AT STOKE STATE FOREST CR 636 BEAR LEFT TO SUNRISE MOUNTAIN FOLLOW SIGNS TO SUMMIT DOUBLE BACK AND MAKE HARD DOWNHILL RIGHT CRIGGER RD FOLLOW SIGNS TO DECKERTOWN RD RIGHT AT DECKERTOWN RD LEFT AT SAWMILL RD LEFT AT PARK RIDGE RD RIGHT AT RTE 23 SOUTH LEFT INTO HIGH POINT STATE PARK TAKE ROAD TO MONUMENT AND VISTA RETURN DOWN TO RTE 23 LEFT TOWARDS PORT JERVIS FOLLOW SIGNS TO RTE 97 WATCH FOR ELKS-BROX MEMORIAL PARK ON RIGHT
BACKROADS • OCTOBER 2013 around the hairpin and continue on to one of our favorite roads in the northeast – The Mohawk Trail. This road, which reaches a high elevation of 2272 feet at Whitcomb Summit, follows most of an ancient Indian trail and will continue for some 65 miles, but we recommend enjoy this stunning piece of asphalt portion of the trail as parallels the Deerfield River for several miles, and passes near the village of Shelburne Falls, and the Bridge of Flowers. Make it a point to stop here, as it is the perfect place for lunch and to see the Bridge and the famous glacial potholes. These are just a few suggestions for Leaf peeping this year. If you have some suggestions for next year’s Fall Foliage issue, drop us a line and let know.
Now get out and ride!
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OCTOBER 2013 • BACKROADS
FEEL THE FREEDOM!
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For more details and bookings please contact: Fred Rau • 951-672-0239 • Fred@FredRau.com Visit Te Waipounamu Website for information
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