September 2011

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SEPTEMBER

2011

Volume 17 No. 9

ine

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

h t u o S

d n u o b

Map 582 • Carpe Deum • CLASS Act PLUS… All our great monthly columns, features and information

W H A T ’ S

I N S I D E FEAT URES

MON THLY COLUMN S FREE WHEELIN’.................................................................................4

SOUTHBOUND ................................................................................26

WHATCHATHINKIN’..........................................................................5

MAP 582…THE MID ATLANTIC LOOP .....................................34

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE .................................................6

CARPE DEUM…2ND TIME AROUND NEW ZEALAND.........41

ON THE MARK ..................................................................................8

SHIRA’S SUMMERTIME ICE CREAM RIDE .............................45

THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD ...................................................10

CLASS ACT - CONTINUING EDUCATION ................................58

BACKLASH........................................................................................11 INDUSTRY INFOBITES...................................................................13

PRODUCT REVIEW S

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN.........................................16 MYSTERIOUS AMERICA...............................................................18 WE’RE OUTTA HERE .....................................................................20

TOURMASTER TRANSITION 2 JACKET ...................................24 PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS................................................................52 PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS .........................................................62-63

BIG CITY GETAWAY........................................................................21 UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ..............................................48 WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE .......................................................50 MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE...................................................53 Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil ~ Publishers Contributors: Jeff Bahr, Michele Bissonnette, Mark Byers, Paul Donoghue, Steven Klose, Bill Heald, Rob Mitchell, Dr. Seymour O’Life

BACKROADS • POB 317, Branchville NJ 07826 Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure Phone 973.948.4176 • Fax 973.948.0823 • email editor@backroadsusa.com • web www.backroadsusa.com

For Advertising Sales Information: 973-948-4176 BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2011. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific written consent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ will only return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be considered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadways traversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

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SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 4

FREE WHEELIN’ BRIAN RATHJEN Ace cAfé? No ThANks. Some things are best left alone and not played with.

Take some of the imports from Britain that can now be found in an Americanized version on TV. I’m sorry – the American version of Top Gear can’t hold a candle to the original English version.

Still, I can find the British version on cable each week on BBC America.

But other imports might think twice.

Lately I have been reading of a push to bring London’s famed ACE Café to the United States.

Now there is no question that the ACE Café is a British icon to riders around the world.

But, so was the original Margaritaville in Key West to Parrotheads.

Now you can find them in places like the casino at Mohegan Sun in Connecticut. I’ll give Jimmy the one in New Orleans and maybe Jamaica, but the rest…?

Now Mark Wilsmore, the bloke (I can say that ‘cause he’s English) that brought back the ACE in 1993, has set his sights on the Colonies.

The folks at ACE in London envision ten ACE Café’s around the United States.

Really…ten? Do we really need or want this?

As my friends in the worldwide internet community would say…WTF? Every country and region around the globe has their own local motorcycle hangouts. In our region we have seen them come and some sadly go.

The Red Apple Rest, Marcus Dairy, the Hawks Nest, Manhattan’s Ear. They are all iconic in their own way, as is San Francisco’s Alice’s Restaurant or the Rock Store near Los Angeles.

The allure of these places is that they grew and developed by themselves to become a place were riders could go and enjoy the bikes and other riders.

Individually there are all places of motorcycle legend.

Do we really need a pre-packaged, motorcycle version of the Hard Rock Café to suit our needs?

I don’t think so.

The ACE Café was originally built in 1938 as a roadside stop along what is known as the North Circular Road. It was badly damaged in World War II but was rebuilt and after the war it became a draw for local motorcyclists and scooter riders – remember the Mods and Rockers?

It has a great history, but it is English history.

Anything that is exported to the United States simply will be a bad copy of that greatness.

How about we build a dozen “Rock Stores” across Europe?

I don’t think it would fly very well and it shouldn’t.

We recently heard of a letter writing campaign started to push for the old Red Apple Rest to be considered for a New York site of the ACE Café’.

Many of us loved the Red Apple in its day, and the location is perfect for riders, but the building has seen far better days and, although the location is perfect, the building would have to be demolished and a new structure built.

So let some enterprising Americans do it.

Not a bunch of Brits looking to cash in on a famous name and our dollars.

One of the places that the ACE is looking at is a dealership in Largo, Florida. Nice location, especially for those riders on the western coast of Florida.

If this happens we’re curious to see how it all works out.

(Continued on Page 9)

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

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W H ATC H AT H I N K I N ’ SHIRA KAMIL hANgiNg ouT Over the years, there have been meccas to which motorcyclists have been drawn. There are those destinations put on a bucket list like the northern/southern/eastern/westernmost points on the planet such as Prudhoe Bay or Ushuaia, the passes of the Alps or circumnavigating the earth. And then there are just hangouts where throngs of riders and/or bikers gravitate.

The Rock Store, Alice’s Restaurant and the Lookout in California, the Ace Café in London, the Ear in Manhattan and the now-defunct Marcus Dairy and Hawk’s Nest Café on the East coast, just to name a few. Riders enjoy the camaraderie and tire-kicking that take place at these places. Many come week after week, with not much difference to be seen, simply to share the exuberance of riding.

Some of these destination/hangouts offer more than just a place to park your ride and chew the fat. There are decent restaurants in the flock, some that lie on exceptional pieces of asphalt and others that offer the rider an awe-inspiring view. This adds another dimension to the attraction and brings an even bigger draw.

Well, there’s a new kid on the block. This past April, Motorcyclepedia opened its doors in the sort of bustling town of Newburgh, NY. It doesn’t have food or view, and you’ll have to search to find good roads in the area. So why would motorcyclists point their wheels in this direction? Motorcyclepedia has an amazing collection of vintage motorcycles and memorabilia, that’s why.

Residing on two floors, you will find an almost complete line of Indian motorcycles dating to the first from 1901, a tremendous assortment of Harley-Davidsons in varying

states of restoration and wall upon wall of memorabilia and movie posters revolving around motorcycles. On the ground floor is housed an actual Wall of Death amongst some pretty cool motorcycle arcade rides. Not being a motorcycle historian, there were many models I had never heard of (Clement, please don’t bite my head off) such as the Thor and Wagner.

Wandering through the abundant collection, Brian occasionally would point at one or another ride and smile. One in particular was the 1978 Honda XR75, saying that his mother would not allow him to get an SL70 when he was a kid. Another was Dennis Hopper’s (Billy’s) bike from Easy Rider. He said, ‘How many people do you think remember the name of that one?’

Along with this great assortment, Motorcyclepedia has a room that can be used by clubs and organizations for group visits and seminars.

On the Sunday that we visited there was a group from a Long Island HOG chapter partaking of the exhibits as well. Most were still meandering through the museum, while others were relaxing on the comfy couches in the entry area, watching the introduction video.

In addition to its wonderful showcase of motorized memorabilia, Motorcyclepedia is also an MSF site. If you or your group would like to partake of their facility, please contact them for more information.

Motorcyclepedia had a ‘soft’ opening in December, which certainly piqued the interest of area riders. With its official opening in April, many individuals and clubs have already made the trip to see what they have to offer. From the posts on Facebook and comments we’ve heard from those attending, it (Continued on Page 9)

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Page 6

P O S TC A R D S FROM THE HEDGE BILL HEALD PuTTiNg The cusTom iN your cusTom It may be hard to believe, but we’re already staring into the headlight(s) of a new model year. The first bikes that have introduced themselves to me come from our friends in Milwaukee, and they are kind of special (and not just because they’re brand-spanking new). They are noteworthy because they are very rare birds, and therefore attack an age-old problem that has long afflicted the famous American Iron.

There’s been an interesting conundrum for many riders who love Harley-Davidsons: How do you stand out in a crowd as a cool individualist when so many other cool individualists in the crowd love Harleys too? The Motor Company has been very helpful in rectifying this situation by offering excellent, bolt-on solutions (OK, many would call them accessories) that could fill an urban phone book if people used them anymore (phone books that is, not the accessories. People still use the latter with abandon).

While so many Harley owners really have done a stunning job at making their rides unique, there is still nothing quite like a true factory custom from the Skunk Works deep in the Motor Company’s R&D department. Here we find very special, low-production motorcycles that are released by Harley’s Custom Vehicle Operations (CVO), and the company explains these machines thusly: “CVO motorcycles are customized using premium accessories and paint treatments combined with numerous items from the Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessories catalog.

The CVO program is often used to introduce new custom components and techniques before they are offered as individual accessories.” For 2012 there are a quartet of these special bikes, including the CVO Road Glide Custom, the CVO Street Glide, the CVO Softail Convertible and the CVO Ultra Classic Electra Glide. All of these bikes are powered by a very special engine; the biggest V-Twin in the Harley family and a special mill only available on these bikes. It’s called the Twin Cam 110, and in one of the bikes (the Softail) it’s the 110B as it is counterbalanced and mounted solidly in the frame (the other guys get the non-counterbalanced rubber-mounted issue). These soulful engines are true Monsters of Torque, with 122 lb.-ft on tap in the 110 version and 105 for the 110B. All get Harley’s 6-Speed Cruise Drive transmission, and from here they all go their special, highly-customized ways. Here’s a quickie overview: The CVO Road Glide Custom is armed with the Glide’s signature shark-nose fairing, and has a sound system Harley describes as, “A high-output, amplified Harman/Kardon Advanced Audio radio that features CD/AM/FM/WB and delivers 100 watts per channel to five-by-seven-inch fairing-mount speakers and two-inch dash-mount tweeters. An included 8GB Apple iPod nano connects via an interface and holder located in the right-side saddlebag.” Righteous tunage, yes? You also get a smoked Wind Splitter windshield, cruise control, two-piece custom seat with removable pillion and a color-matched, low-profile fuel tank console with illuminated CVO graphic insert. Base price: $32,699.

The CVO Softail Convertible has the aforementioned 110B V-Twin and brings the custom treatment to one of Harley’s most versatile bikes. You get a detachable windshield, saddlebags, passenger pillion and backrest to go from lean cruising to mile munching in short order. The redesigned for ’12 windshield significantly reduces turbulence to the rider, and integrates a Road Tech Zumo 660 GPS Navigator with an MP3 player. Planet of the Apes fans will welcome the mini-ape handlebar, and practically all primates will dig the electronic cruise control, keyless ignition and ABS brakes. $29,699.

CVO Street Glide: the Bat flies at dusk, man. This classic Harley with the BatWing fairing is a long-haul bagger as well as an ultra-polished traditional Big Twin, and in CVO form has enhanced audio magic with a two-amp/eight-speaker system (Continued on Page 9)

SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 8

ON THE MARK MARK BYERS Are you exPerieNced?

Jimi asked that question in one of his songs, but it’s a question we should ask ourselves as motorcyclists. I’m overdue to pick up my 100,000 mile award from BMW for riding that many miles on their brand alone, mostly over the past 8 years, but am I really “experienced?” I’ve certainly racked up a fair number of incident-free miles, but does that make me wise or just successfully repetitive?

Experience is supposed to be a cumulative thing wherein events are stored to provide you with knowledge and wisdom you otherwise would not accrue. A wise pilot once told me, however, that there’s a huge difference between having 10,000 hours of flight time and having 10,000 one-hour flights. It took me a while to understand, but he was addressing the fact that not everyone does the same things with their experience: not every 10,000-hour pilot is the same.

For example, if you stand and recite a series of incorrect facts every day until they are second nature and you can recite them verbatim, at will, does that make you more intelligent? The analogy to riding (or flying) is clear: if we ride a great deal, but during the course of our rides, we make the same mistakes over and over, are we really gaining experience or are we just reinforcing the incorrect?

I’ll take a shot: the answer is “yes.” I ride a great deal and I can tell the wisdom gained from riding many miles largely keeps me out of trouble; however, I also see parts of my riding that still require improvement, even after 30-plus years. I still catch myself practicing bad habits like entering lefthand curves too early. No matter how good I think I’ve become, I frequently

note an aspect of my riding on which I could work. Low-speed maneuvering is one: how many times do you go to a parking lot and just work the bars to the stops practicing one-eighties? It’s not very appealing on a 102 deg day, that’s for sure.

No one is immune from the complacency of experience. In the flying world, we have the “halo syndrome” wherein two high-time pilots STILL get themselves into trouble, partly because they believe they have the experience to handle the situation (even when they don’t). I think accident statistics bear out that the two worst groups are the ones who don’t know anything (the newbies) and the ones who THINK they know something (the vastly experienced). How many times have you heard someone say, “You can’t tell that guy anything?” I can tell you that FATE is quite capable of delivering the message in a way that will make him take note.

Experience is a great teacher, but her knowledge also requires refresher courses. One of the places wherein I know I’m both experienced and marginally skilled is in offroad riding. I’m definitely the guy with 10,000 1-hour flights there, because I get to do it so infrequently that every offroad ride is a “back to basics” session.

Because my lack of recent experience doesn’t translate into confidence, I don’t look far enough down the trail, don’t gas it as hard as I should going over logs, etc. and usually ride below my capability. Fortunately, the consequences of getting it wrong on the trail are usually spectacularly muddy, but mostly harmless.

On the road, we can reach into ourselves with reminders to go back to the basics and practice the correct things. Getting out the tomes by Hough and Parks and Grodsky and Code and a whole host of other wise men is a great place to start. The most effective way is probably to hire someone who can (Continued on Next Page)

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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011 free WheeliN’

Page 9 (Continued from Page 4)

Truth is many bikers have been spoon fed ad nauseam on what it takes to be part of the motorcycle community, just look at the vests, chaps, tee shirts and half helmets that are considered real riding gear by so many American riders. So for them this venture just might work out perfectly.

Me? I’d rather find some little local place that seems to fill up, especially on Sundays, with all varieties of home-grown riders.

Harleys, Wings, Sportbikes, Adventure riders and scooters.

They are all unique and yet still have much in common. Far more in common than a café outside London that wants to spread a pre-packaged destination to our shores.

ACE Café – I’d love to visit you in England, but please don’t bother coming over here. We have far too much Disneyesque shit here all ready!

We have many places, both small and large, that have become havens and favorites for American riders and we should all frequent them.

We don’t need the ACE. In the mean time this Thursday I’ll ride up the Hawks Nest and remember some good times I had there and then spin down to New Jersey’s Chatterbox and join a few hundred of my friends.

Maybe have a burger and not fish and chips.

WhATchAThiNkiN’

(Continued from Page 5)

seems that it is a very welcome addition to the motorcycle hangouts of the East coast. I look forward to seeing how they might change their exhibits while going forward, and hope that they might expand on the vintage selections to include others makes from around the world.

In keeping with hangouts, and to make a point-counterpoint comment on Brian’s editorial this month, let’s say something about the ACE Café. I agree that bringing the concept, in bulk, across the Pond would diminish the allure of the original. A hangout has to be developed, for whatever reason, and for its own mystique. Just plopping down, or rebuilding, a pre-fab reproduction of an icon does not make it one. While the name may bring curious folk and draw those after a famous establishment, the flavor will be completely different. That being said, what’s so wrong about trying to offer riders a new place to hang. If the re-invented ACE Café can offer motorcyclists, bikers and scooterists alike a place to congregate on one level, even if it’s a pat recreation of another era, why not see how that develops? There is some great riding surrounding the Red Apple Rest, always a plus. Perhaps this American ACE Café can develop its own charisma and morph its own iconic hotspot. Or perhaps it will just become another place for non-motorcyclists to get their t-shirt and feel like they are part of the pack. If it does come to fruition, I’ll give their fish and chips a try, at least once. But I’ll always head back to my local hangs and look for that elusive Hawk’s Nest Café of the future.

PosTcArds from The hedge

(Continued from Page 6)

that includes speakers in the fairing, fairing lowers, and now also in the saddlebag lids. You straddle the 110 engine on a low-profile solo touring seat with an embossed insert pattern and detachable passenger pillion complete with a backrest pad. Three color schemes are available on this stylish mount and cruise control is standard, with prices starting at $30,699.

Finally, it’s time to get totally loaded. The CVO Ultra Classic Electra Glide is the full-tilt-boogie big touring rig that probably benefits more than any other bike here from that excellent 110 V-Twin. Suffice it to say Harley’s supreme touring bike is so loaded with stunning coast-to-coast goodness I don’t have the space to catalogue it all. But, I have to quote from the Harley press release regarding the entertainment electronics because I love it so: “New features for 2012 start with BOOM! Audio High Performance BOOM! Bagger Speakers plus new BOOM! Audio Bass Booster Ports in the TourPak bottom liner.” There’s homage to a Flight of the Concords tune in there somewhere. As for the rest of the Ultra, it’s loaded with over $37,249 of CVO greatness. So there you have it: 4 special Harleys for 2012, perfectly suited for those who want to start their cool individualism right out of the box.

Have some Thoughts from the Road? Put them to paper and send them along - you’ll get some gas money in return. email: editor@backroadsusa.com

oN The mArk see us as who we are, not as who we THINK we are, to tell us where we’re doing it right and where we’re mistakenly reinforcing the wrong.

I don’t know how to address those in the “halo group” whose apparently accident-free existence reinforces what appear to be a fairly large number of bad habits. I see them following too closely, using poor lane position, dropping into neutral at lights, etc. and I wonder whether they’re experienced. I wonder whether they’ll continue to build safe time, albeit while reinforcing bad habits, or whether Fate will step in with a citation to remind them that miles or hours don’t necessarily equate to wisdom. To paraphrase something check pilots tell students who’ve just received their flying licenses “Now you’ve got a license to learn.” We should all use it.

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SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 10

TH OUGHTS FROM THE ROAD It was a dark and stormy night….

To borrow from my literary mentor, the great Snoopy, it was indeed an ominous night before the 2011 Backroads Spring Break. After a week of heavy rains, the rain continued into the night on Wednesday evening.

I consider Backroads Spring Break the official kickoff to riding season. It is not to be missed. We’ve been attending for years, and always have a marvelous time.

Heading out, the roads just slightly damp, the sun was breaking through the clouds as we made our way down the mountain into Warwick on our way to the starting point in Port Jervis. Pulling into the Port Jervis dinner, we said our hellos to the many friends who were gathered, ready to start their adventure. We had made plans to ride with our good friends, Ken & Karen. We were joined by two of our erstwhile riding buddies, the two Eds, and a new friend Scott. Winding our way north on 97 we crossed over the Delaware at Barryville into Pennsylvania. It was a great ride up through some fabulous Pennsylvania back roads. Brian had emailed a route change, the night before, putting us on some of the best motorcycle roads Pennsylvania has to offer. It was more of the same as we crossed back into NY. We lost one of the Eds at lunch.

Riding into Ithaca; we had reached the Finger Lakes region. Up and down hill and dale, we wound our way around the lakes, Cayuga, Seneca and Keuka. Heading into the town of Hammondsport, we picked up a stray rider in the middle of our group. He stopped to chat with us when we pulled over for a break in “downtown” Hammondsport. Turned out he was a former

For over 25 years Circle Cycle has helped riders get and stay on the road

trustee for the Glen Curtiss museum and gave us all free passes. Thanks Peter! From Hammondsport on Keuka Lake, we made our way to scenic Canandaigua Lake. What a beautiful lake. Having encountered only a few stray sprinkles throughout the day, we closed out the day with a light rain.

No big deal.

The Inn on the Lake at the head of Canandaigua Lake turned out to be a super place. I’d say it is one of the nicest places we have stayed over the years on Backroads’ trips. It’s located right on the lake, with a nice on premises restaurant, as well as several other dining options within walking distance. Can’t forget to mention the two lounges to hang in, especially the Sand Bar right on the water. The ladies were kicking up their heels to the live band Friday night.

Lots of great amenities, and not only did the lounge stay open late, as far as I know, none of our group was asked to leave.

Friday started off foggy and overcast. We did the Finger Lakes Natural Wonders route. The benefit to all the rain earlier in the week was that the falls and gorges were all in rare form. Buttermilk Falls, the gorge in Treman state park, topped off by Watkins Glen State park. We’ve done the walk up, around and under the falls at Watkins Glen before. We almost skipped it, but the sun was shining brightly and we decided to hike up. We’re all glad we did, WOW! It was like someone was draining Lake Ontario into the gorge.

The many falls were absolutely spectacular. Walking under the falls at one point was really cool. We took many pictures, which just don’t do justice to the experience. Walking along the gorge was the wettest I got on the whole (Continued on Page 12)

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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

Page 11

BACKLASH Backroads Hits the Alps Hey Backroads, Gail and I had a great time on the Backroads High Alpine tour. It was great to meet and ride with all that we met on the trip and hope that we can be part of group rides throughout the rest of the riding season. We’re ready to ride!

Graham Sampson Brian & Shira, Thanks again for another fantastic tour in the Alps and the memories that will last a lifetime. It keeps getting better!

Mike Mosca Hi Shira and Brian, Our jet lag is lagging finally. Thank your for organizing a great tour in Europe. We had a great time as usual and look forward to the next adventure.

As I said once before, we look forward to see where you can push the boundaries of the limits of the earth, and see who will show up.

Mike Wernick Hi everyone, Hope you all made/make it back home with no problems and all your luggage. It was great to meet and ride with you. I think the trip was fantastic big thanks and congratulations to Shira and Brian. Where are we going next?

Photographs...I know I missed lots of great photos because I was riding.

Anyone have thoughts on how to share, securely, between the group?

And if you need a bed in northeastern Vermont, you are welcome to stay with us! I’ll even move a car out so you can park your bike inside the garage.

Stephen Hi Kids, See where you have another successful tour over and done. Good on you.

Missed you at the MOA rally. Heat was god-awful and I thought I would

Letters to the Editor melt into one wet puddle. I heard people from the Carolinas and Florida complaining about the weather and that it would have been cooler in their native states. Shaved ice and misters took some of the sting out along with lots of a/c back in the room.

Did you see Norm and Denise? I still miss him even though it’s been many a year since he was holding down the fort for BMW. Airheads Forever Sindee

From Across the Pond Hi Guys, I enjoyed your latest issue - courtesy of Issu - that Shira put me onto. I have read the last few editions like this and it’s a great way to communicate with folk out of sensible reach of the USPS. I see that you went on a Ride Like Pro course so I have to ask....can Shira do slow speed tight turns now? I reckon the Alps should have reinforced the turning muscle. I am off to the Picos de Europa on Sunday for my own dose of twisties. I had a hard time deciding whether to take the K1600 or the GS and finally settled on the latter as I might just find a bit of gravel here and there...although of course I don’t ride off-road anymore.

Hugs all round.

Chris Knight - London, England

Kudos on J.T’s Journal Hello Brian & Shira...

By the way, I knew there was something I wanted to talk with you about, but it completely slipped my mind until I saw your Facebook update. I LOVED the journal you published from J.T. Hart!! And I had no trouble at all reading any of it, because that’s the exact way my dad talks & writes. One of the best stories I’ve read in a long time.

Tom (Continued on Next Page)

SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 12 ThoughTs from The roAd

(Continued from Page 10)

trip, and that was not very wet. A nice spirited ride back to the Inn, capped off with dinner with friends and a few adult beverages to close out the night, with the live band at the Sand Bar. Saturday dawned a bit overcast, but the fog soon lifted and our merry band of riders was off on the Great Lake Loop ride. Nice roads, fabulous scenery, with a stop at chilly and foggy Lake Ontario. At least it was supposed to be Lake Ontario, with the cool waters of the great lake, and the warm weather, the lake was ensconced in a foggy blanket.

I could hear the rumbling stomachs, and after a threat of mutiny, it was a short detour to the shores of Sodus Bay with lunch overlooking the water.

Our hunger sated, we headed to Country Rode Motowerks. After doing some shopping, we were treated to Brian and Shira’s enlightening and entertaining presentation on touring the planet. Great tips, and nobody looks better clicking the next slide button than Shira. Did anyone put a deposit on the new BMW K1600GTL? Ken looked really happy sitting on it for a longggggg time; we almost had to leave without him. We even survived the Rapture, and fortunately, the world did not end at 6:00 PM. It was back to the Inn for the last night and dinner on the outdoor deck. The weather could not have been better.

It seems all good things come to an end, and Sunday came much too soon.

With goodbyes at breakfast to the group, we soon found ourselves in a growing pack that was headed back home. Choosing some more main roads in the interest of time, we quickly wound our way east and south. We were able to get in a few more back roads, before picking up Route 97 in Hancock NY. Hey, we went by the Hancock Inn, home to the 2009 Spring Break, which brought me a smile, remembering another great trip. Winding along 97, the temps continued to drop, must be getting close to home. Global warming?

What better way to cap off the trip than a stop at the Port Jervis diner where it all started for a late lunch and some yummy hot chili? Now cooking with gas, we made our way back home. Can’t believe it was over, time to unpack and go back to the real world.

To those few who cancelled, their loss. The rest of us all had a great time.

Good roads, great friends, only a few sprinkles, even got in a few dirt roads.

Sorry we missed Blueberry Hill, heard it was quite an adventure. Looking forward to the next Backroads’ soiree.

Shira and Brian, thanks for putting on another fabulous Spring Break. As always, Diane and I had a great time.

BAcklAsh Hey Backroads, Thanks to the June issue, I stopped at Bob’s BMW, unfortunately I didn’t get to see Dr Greg’s around the world BMW because they rotate their museum pieces, but there are some other cool vintage BMW bikes. I’m riding up to Motorcyclepedia on July 3 - thanks to the June issue!

All the best!

Rory Anderson Dear Editors, Not exactly a backlash, but here goes.

Why do we ride?

4th of July Saturday. Sunny skies with puffy clouds. A curvy road alongside a gushing stream. Oncoming, a caravan of vintage cars led by a ‘57 Chevy convertible. Up ahead, a guy towing a loaded smoker to a barbeque and treating me to the smells of the feast.

Can it possibly get any better than this?

Bill Amadio - Lawrenceville, NJ Dear Brian and Shira, I’m curious as to your thoughts regarding motorcycle reviews in your magazine. The Ducati Diavel was front and center in the most recent issue and the review was, how do I put this, “lacking.” I actually flipped the pages a few times thinking I had missed some of the review.

I’m really trying not to offend and I am thinking that you feel that your magazine’s mission is about backroads and motorcycle reviews are not its goal/niche?

Sincerely, Phil Levin Phil, We had a complete review on it a few months back – The August cover was a touring story. You are correct, we’re not a review magazine. We can leave the super-comparo shootouts to the California magazines. Backroads has always been a touring publication. We are about real riding on the road.

Thanks for the comments.

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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

Page 13

IND USTRY INFOBITES

News from the Inside rider to wear a fluorescent yellow high visibility vest, banning traffic filtering (lane splitting), and increasing the size of motorcycle registration plates.

Organized by the Federation Francaise des Motards en Colere (FFMC – French Federation of Angry Bikers) through its highly efficient network of regional and local offices, Paris alone saw more than 15,000 bikers blocking the heart of the capital, with thousands more paralyzing dozens of cities across the country for hours with demonstrations against the French government and interior minister Claude Guéant for their anti-motorcycle policies and proposals.

“Bikers in France are just fed up with Guéant’s stupid proposals and his ’I can’t see you, I can’t hear you’ attitude, to the extent that almost 100,000 of them have today stood up against their government and paralyzed the whole nation,” reported www.ukfrancebikers.com.

In response to the largest motorcycle protest in France’s history, road safety director Michèle Merli said on national radio that bikers misunderstood the proposed obligation to wear a high visibility vest but would rather propose to riders that they wear a little yellow strap around their arm so that they can be better seen by motorists.

UK France bikers.com says they believe that “it is not the bikers who have misunderstood the latest government’s proposals but rather the French government who continue to severely misunderstand and under-estimate the safety of riders.”

LET’S SAY GOODBYE TO THE LEAD LAW The U.S. House has approved legislation by a vote of 421-2 to exempt kids’ off-highway vehicles (OHVs) from the lead law that essentially bans the sale of those machines at the end of the year, the American Motorcyclist Association reports. On Aug. 1, Reps. Mary Mack Bono (R-Calif.) and G.K. Butterfield (D-N.C.) introduced H.R. 2715 to grant the exemption. The measure earned House approval later in the day and now goes to the Senate for consideration. The Senate is considering similar legislation — S. 1448, the Consumer Product Safety Flexibility Act of 2011.

“This is excellent news for families around the nation who enjoy responsible motorized recreation,” said Rob Dingman, AMA president and CEO. “Now the challenge will be to get our federal lawmakers to agree on one version of the bill and to send it to President Obama to be signed into law. “It is vital that a lead-law exemption for OHVs be signed into law not only because it will once again allow families to enjoy riding together, but also so that children aren’t forced to ride adult-sized machines that they may not be able to operate safely,” Dingman said. The legislation exempts OHVs — including kids’ dirtbikes and all-terrain vehicles (ATVs) — from the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act (CPSIA) of 2008. The CPSIA bans the making, importing, distributing or selling of any product intended for children 12 and under that contains more than a specified amount of lead in any accessible part. It also requires all children’s products undergo periodic testing by independent laboratories approved by the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), which is responsible for implementing the law.

The U.S. Senate that night quickly joined the House of Representatives in passing H.R. 2715, which amends the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act (CPSIA) to categorically exclude youth ATVs and dirtbikes from the lead content provisions.

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MOTORCYCLE RIDER BREAKS 300 MPH BARRIER A Florida man has topped 300 mph on a conventional motorcycle.

Bill Warner of Wimauma hit a speed of 311.945 mph Sunday at the Loring Timing Association’s land speed races at the former Loring Air Force Base in Limestone, Maine.

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Warner, who is 42, says his motorcycle “is built for speed and that’s what it did.” He held the previous speed record of 278.6 mph, set last October in Texas

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SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 14

TWO AMERICAN ICONS REUNITE TO SALUTE THE FORCES OF GOOD Harley-Davidson and Marvel Studio’s Captain America Join Forces to Defend Freedom On July 22, two icons of freedom rolled onto the silver screen when Marvel Studios released Captain America: The First Avenger, who defends freedom and justice for all on a Harley-Davidson WLA motorcycle.

During World War II, Harley-Davidson produced and dispatched almost 70,000 WLA motorcycles overseas to support the war effort. The motorcycle was affectionately known as the “Liberator” by U.S. Service Men and Women.

To celebrate this reunion, Harley-Davidson Motor Company has created the “H-D Free the World” promotion, which features two grand prizes. One lucky U.S. military member, as well as a non-military member, will each win the opportunity to work with Marvel and the Motor Company to customize their own one-of-a-kind new Harley-Davidson Sportster 1200 Custom motorcycle in Harley-Davidson’s hometown of Milwaukee, Wis. “Captain America makes the perfect marketing partner for Harley-Davidson as he truly embodies the iconic, heroic and American aspects of our brand,” said Dino Bernacchi, Harley-Davidson’s director of Marketing Communications. “Both Captain America and our motorcycles are great symbols of freedom.”

Additionally, Captain America fans can visit their local Harley-Davidson dealers to secure an exclusive poster featuring Captain America on his 1942

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Harley-Davidson “Liberator,” while supplies last. Harley-Davidson’s promotional Web site, www.h-d.com/captainamerica , also features behind the scenes footage that was produced in collaboration with Marvel.

DELAWARE GOVERNOR VETOES HELMET LAW REPEAL

Governor Jack Markell has vetoed HB 95, which would have repealed the requirement that persons operating a motorcycle in Delaware carry a safety helmet. Since 1978 when the state repealed their mandatory helmet law, Delaware has one of the most unique helmet laws on the books by requiring riders to have a helmet in their possession on the bike, but not requiring those over 18 to actually wear one.

Even as Delaware riders hear of their governor’s decision, all eyes are on Michigan where the Michigan Senate recently voted 24-14 to approve a measure that would allow motorcyclists 21 or older to go lidless if they have been licensed to operate a motorcycle for at least two years or have passed a safety course, though ABATE of Michigan opposes an amendment requiring $100,000.00 in medical coverage to ride without a helCYCLE MOTION met, calling it excessive and noting that many insurance companies don’t offer such coverage, and if they did is now a the cost would be prohibitive.

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SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

G REAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN

tasty places to take your bike

rm’s sNAck shAck eNgleWood BoAT BAsiN, eNgleWood cliffs, NJ • 201-871-1475 • hTTP://rmsNAckshAck.com Steven Klose I know you’re hungry, but first a brief history of where RM’s Snack Shack is located.

The Palisades Interstate Park, which stretches north from Edgewater, NJ, to Palisades, NY, just over the border, was created in 1900 as concern over the wholesale quarrying of the Palisades cliffs put a knot in the collective corsets of the New Jersey State Federation of Women’s Clubs. Under pressure from the women a commission was created to prevent further destruction of the natural wonder along the west bank of the Hudson River.

Taking down the quarrying operators was no mean feat. Let New York City go elsewhere for its curbing material.

Fast forward to the Great Depression and what better project for the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps) than improvements in the Park and on the Drive that runs through it following the contours of the Hudson River?

Which brings us (literally) to RM’s Snack Shack, nestled snugly between the Palisades cliffs and the Hudson River at the Englewood Boat Basin in Englewood Cliffs, NJ. RM’s (RM is for Rosemary, the owner) is an open-air, slate-roofed restaurant constructed of native trap rock and chestnut logs. Seating is outside on picnic table-style benches, so of course it’s seasonal, as is access to the Park.

The menu is ambitious for such a small place. In addition to great burgers

Rip & Ride® • RM’S SNACK SHACK ENGLEWOOD BOAT BASIN, ENGLEWOOD CLIFFS, NJ • 201-871-1475 • GPS : 40.87574, -73.9467 • TUES. - FRI.: 8AM-5PM; SAT.: 8AM-6PM; SUN.: 9AM-6PM

START: RED APPLE REST, ROUTE 17, SOUTHFIELDS, NY LEFT ONTO ROUTE 17 LEAVING THE RAR BEAR RIGHT AT THE TRAFFIC LIGHT (LESS THAN A MILE) LEFT AT THE INTERSECTION ONTO ORANGE COUNTY 106 AND PROCEED THROUGH HARRIMAN STATE PARK BEAR RIGHT ONTO CR 98/E. WILLOW GROVE RD. (ABOUT 7.5MILES) LEFT MERGING ONTO THE PALISADES INTERSTATE PARKWAY HEADING SOUTH (ABOUT 1.5 MILES) EXIT 2 OFF PIP AND MAKE A RIGHT ONTO ROUTE 9W NORTH RIGHT AT THE TRAFFIC LIGHT INTO THE PALISADES INTERSTATE PARK (LESS THAN 500 FT)

IN STOCK NOW!

RIGHT AT THE INTERSECTION. AT THIS POINT YOU MAY SEE A SIGN “DRIVE CLOSED.” CHANCES ARE YOU CAN CALL THEIR BLUFF AND ENTER THE APPROACH TO THE HENRY HUDSON DRIVE HEADING SOUTH.* TRAVEL JUST OVER FIVE MILES ON THE HENRY. DO NOT BEAR

SAYING

RIGHT AT THE FORK IN THE ROAD THAT HEADS UP THE ALPINE ROAD TO

PALISADES AVE. JUST BEAR LEFT AND IN ABOUT A RM’S SNACK SHACK ON YOUR

QUARTER MILE YOU WILL SEE LEFT.

*IF BY CHANCE THE DRIVE IS REALLY CLOSED GET BACK ON THE PIP AND TRAVEL SOUTH TO EXIT 1. BEAR LEFT AT THE INTERSECTION AND HEAD DOWN THE ALPINE ROAD TO RM’S.

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September 25, 2011 Sign in: 7:30-9:15am • Ride Leaves 9:30am SHARP! Turf Valley Resort, 2700 Turf Valley Rd, Ellicott City, MD Bob Henig of Bob’s BMW will bring you on a 51-mile ride through the rolling and twisting countryside of Maryland. Minimum donation: $35 If you’d like to voluteer as a VIP Escort and provide an approved back seat or sidecar, please contact Bob at 301-497-8949.

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

there’s a wide assortment of sandwiches with playful names like “Pete’s Favorite” (grilled chicken), the “Tuscan Veggie” for the meat averse (portobello mushrooms, grilled eggplant, etc.) and a pretty good Cuban Sandwich which they call the “Cuban Cubanawich.” Want more? How about a tasty quesadilla or panino (that’s right, panino. Panini is the plural). Go there on Sunday for the Smoked Salmon Special. Breakfast can be had all day.

The Shack has been at this location for years, but you’d swear they just opened yesterday. And that’s a small part of the restaurant’s charm.

The floor of the “kitchen” (it’s technically all a kitchen) seems like a foot below where you are standing to place your order. The rather large work crew looks like elves as they scurry about trying to avoid colliding with one another. They’ll give you a receipt with a number on it and inform you that they’ll call out that number when your meal is ready. Don’t count on it. It’s more like, “Who got the medium-well cheeseburger, with tomato and grilled onions? Where’d that guy go?”

During a recent visit one patron naively mentioned that he’ll be sitting at the rear of the place facing the river awaiting his meal. “No problem!” came the reply with a wave of a hand.

Later: “Who ordered the turkey melt with fries? Where’d that guy go?”

Page 17 I—love—it.

Be patient when waiting for your meal as everything is cooked to order. Chat up the other expectant diners.

Call your mom. Really, when was the last time you spoke with her? When she asks tell her you’re wearing a sweater even if you’re not.

But the food is great and the lemonade is freshly squeezed. I ordered mine with a cheeseburger and the bill came to nine and change. Worth every penny and more.

RM’s clientele is a mixed group — hikers, retirees, fishermen, participants in the Federal Witness Protection Program. Sadly — at least on my visits —not many motorcyclists. More on that later.

The larger part of the Shack’s charm is its location, only yards from the Hudson. In the late afternoon dining in the shade of the towering Palisades you can relax and watch the boats float by (yes, boats, not bodies, wisenheimer). The approximately eight-mile length of the Drive itself is a good motorcycle route (watch for the waterfalls). The condition of the pavement from the Englewood Boat Basin north (three-quarters of the road’s length) is currently in fair to poor condition due in part to rock slides — really. Ride at a leisurely pace.

Now about motorcyclists and RM’s. On my last visit to the Shack, I chose to sit facing the Palisades cliffs and the road to watch the motorcycles go by, as always. And go by they did, with only one of the six stopping for lunch at RM’s. Just as I was gathering my gear and getting ready to leave on my ZX750 Turbo someone came putt-putting along on a Kawasaki W650, tricked-out Café Racer style.

I wished he had stopped for a bite at the Shack.

Where’d that guy go?

The Shack is closed on Mondays. On weekends an attendant will try to get you to hand over five dollars for parking (the Shack sits adjacent to a picnic area). Say you’re just here to eat at the Shack and you should be good to go.

SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 18

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents Dr. Seymour O’Life’s M Y ST ERIOUS AME RI CA Big red eye is there something very large and mean in northwest New Jersey?

For nearly 15 years we have called this corner of New Jersey home and over those years we have seen and heard a lot of stories, tales and yarns from locals and more than a few nocturnal screams during the dead of night.

Our place backs up onto a few hundred acres of privately held land and then the topography runs into the Kittatiny Range and Stokes State Forest.

Just to the west, over the ridge, is the secluded Walpack Valley.

During these years we have had a constant battle with hungry bears looking at our garbage like it was some Bruin-style McDonalds. We have had packs of coyotes and rafters of turkeys and even a full-sized cougar in our backyard on occasion.

Some of the bears have been fairly large and must weigh in at 400 pounds, most are just yearlings looking to survive.

But, there are still stories of something else up in this part of the Garden State – it has been called Big Red Eye and if the stories are true then we have ourselves our own mythical beasty up here.

Let’s not call it a Big Foot. That name just seems lacking for such a creature.

Now I first heard about this from an issue or two of Weird NJ; and the Marks do have a grasp on things like these – but we have found more historical data that just might shed a bit more light on the Big Red Eye. The Lenape Indians who lived throughout this region for thousands of years, had a beast-like creature they called a Messing.

It was thought to be a protector of the forest and rivers, a benevolent creature – half man, half-animal.

Just recently we went to visit the Pocono Indian Museum and they had a replica of a Messing Mask and a reproduction of a Messing itself.

I was not expecting this and the red around the eyes of this ape-like furry friend – well it looked a lot like something else that has been stalking northwest New Jersey for centuries –and still does today.

Big Red Eye. For a number of years there have been reports of horrible screeching in the forests up this way. We have heard them ourselves on a number of occasions. The mid-1970’s were huge for these sightings and there were over 50 in Sussex County alone.

The stories seem to have a recurring theme – an unsuspecting hiker is out in the woods and runs into something big, manlike and fast – with darkish fur or hair, bright red ayes and an equally horrible scream and stench.

Many a car driver has nearly hit this creature along the rural roads near Walpack Valley, Sunset Mountain and High Point State Park.

There are parts of this region that are very remote and it’s hard to believe you are still in New Jersey.

Our own neighbor, Lisa, who grew up in the region, told us a story of how her dog was killed in the mid-70’s by what was then thought of as some new beast in the woods. She recalled how that night they had heard terrible earsplitting howling from outside their Stillwater home and then a commotion and her dog yelping in the yard and then screaming in terror.

Then silence.

The next morning they found the dog crushed to death.

Sorry, bears and coyotes don’t kill this way.

We needed to see what we could find.

Armed with a just a little bit of knowledge – very little – we went out one dreary cool afternoon – what I thought was perfect Humanoid-Ape hunting

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

Page 19 weather for these parts, and went scooting around looking for Big Red Eye, a Messing, BF or just a great cup of coffee if we failed to find anything.

If the worst happened we would have at least a great ride – well, as long as the worst wasn’t being dinner for Big Red Eye. I’d hope they were vegans.

We first ran around Swartswood Lake. They had once found a mastodon’s head here, so I was thinking a prehistoric ape was not a big jump.

I knew of these very remote roads that led over to the Walpack and it was here that I let the quicker, more nimble and, hopefully, tastier Shira take the lead.

Looking to get a bit further into the woods, we rode off the main roads and along some trails and fire roads, passing Buttermilk Falls, which I closely examined to see if BRE (Let’s call it Breee) was showering.

I thought I saw something, but then it was gone.

We rode down Old Mine Road and then into High Point and Sawmill and Ridge Roads.

Now here was primo Jersey Ape Man forest. Hilly, desolate and with a couple of really great portojohns.

Seeing what great portable bathrooms they had out here I could see why trackers, hunters and cryptozoologists have failed to find any scat, doody or BRE remains.

We made our way to High Point Summit and then to Sunrise Mountain thinking we could get a bird’s eye view of the Big Red Eye estate, but ended up settling for a coffee at George’s Wine Shop in Branchville, a well known hangout for Jersey Apes.

In our search for Big Red Eye we had failed miserably.

But, we have dinner tonight at our neighbors – just a ½ mile or so through the woods – the cold, dark early winter woods.

Yikes!

SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 20

Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents

W E ’ RE OUT TA HE R E ye olde lANdmArk TAverN rouTe 20, Bouckville, Ny 13310 315-893-1810 • WWW.yeoldelANdmArk.com When we’re on the road we try to get as much done as we can. Mysterious Americas, the Great All American Diner Run and just about any interesting place we can find. If we like it chances are you will like it too.

So it is with this month’s We’re Outta Here!

We knew we would be heading up to the northern part of the Finger Lakes in New York for our annual Spring Break Rally and Shira, ever in search of things cool came across a very odd shaped and old inn in Bouckville, New York, about a 100 miles east of our Spring Break Rally.

The Ye Olde Landmark Tavern.

The building itself was built between 1850 and 1851 by James Coolidge according to most accounts, including Mrs. Hammond’s “History of Madison County.” Coolidge was faced with a first class dilemma, and possessed the ingenuity to solve it.

The originally planned structure, an octagon 24 feet to a side, would never fit on the pie shaped lot located at the intersection of Cherry Valley Turnpike and the Chenango Canal. The end result, with four sides facing the two thoroughfares, and two more sides in a wedge shape at the rear solved the problem and was the most artistic and practical use of the land.

The oft-married Coolidge topped his building with a six sided cupola, one side for each of his five wives and bride to be, who tragically died before the ceremony. Soon, the new

building was filled with a number of commercial establishments including a hardware store, flour merchant, grocery store, dry goods emporium, and upstairs, a dressmaker.

a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads In 1896 Coolidge sold the building to Lewis E. Coe who went into partnership with H.D. Brockett.

After the death of Coe, Brockett owned the building until selling it to Charles M. Coe, son of Lewis. Once again, in 1940 the unique structure changed hands. The new owner, Robert H. Palmiter, was a nationally recognized

authority on antiques. From then, until his tragic death in 1968, he both operated his antique business and lived in the fine old building.

Then in 1970 a family familiar to many in the area purchased the building. Andrew Hengst and his sons Andrew Jr. (Jock) and Steve opened the Landmark Tavern on September 25th of that year fulfilling a longtime dream of Andy’s. Adolph, Andy’s father, had owned a meat market and grocery store in Hamilton for fifty years. It was there, and later as a food service

director at Colgate University, that Andy learned many of the basic requirements of a good restaurateur. Today the Hengst family continues to serve both the Central New York area and this grand old structure, which is now listed on the National Register of Historical Places.

Located in the heart of Central New York, The Landmark Tavern is just an easy day’s ride from many of the region’s greatest attractions.

The historical Chenango Canal is down the block and you are just a short ride from both the Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown as well as the Boxing

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

Page 21

Hall of Fame in Canastota. If you ride up to the area in August you will be treated to the spectacle of New York State’s largest outdoor antique show, taking place just down the street from the Landmark itself. Any reason you ride up to Bouckville, The Landmark Tavern remains the most charming and accommodating inn in the area, while still maintaining the building’s historic grandeur.

The five rooms are more than huge. As the innkeeper said his rooms are good sized and our suite was bigger than most Manhattan apartments.

All the rooms were well appointed and most had romantic canopy king sized beds.

During the dinner the many odd shaped dining rooms just add to the charm,

as did the healthy wine list.

The restaurant had some seriously good offerings, from steaks to seafood, chicken, lamb and a superior roast duckling and the bar, though a bit small when compared with everything else, was rich looking and comfortable.

The wine selection was, as we said, very good, the prices fair, and the whole feel of Ye Olde Landmark Tavern made this night on the road one to remember.

Ye Olde Landmark Tavern has all we could ask for a great overnight, or even as a base camp for a long weekend of exploring this part of New York.

There is certainly plenty to see and do in the region.

Now all we have to do is get you there in style.

Rip & Ride® • YE OLDE LANDMARK TAVERN ROUTE 20, BOUCKVILLE, NY 13310 • 315-893-1810 • WWW.YEOLDELANDMARK.COM

ROUTE 97 NORTH LEFT - CROSS BRIDGE AT BARRYVILLE CR 434/55 RIGHT AT LACKAWAXEN RD RIGHT AT CR 590 CROSS LACKAWAXEN RIVER RIGHT AT MASTHOPE PLANK RD RIGHT AT WELCOME LAKE RD RIGHT AT PEGGY’S RUNWAY LEFT AT CR 652 RIGHT AT PLANK RD FIRST LEFT – STAY ON PLANK RD

RIGHT AT MILANVILLE RD LEFT AT CALKINS RIGHT AT CARLY BROOK RIGHT AT OREGON TURNPIKE LEFT AT ROUTE 371 WEST RIGHT AT ROUTE 171 NORTH CROSS SUSQUEHANNA RIVER RIGHT AT ROUTE 92 NORTH CROSS INTO NYS – BECOMES ROUTE 79 P/U RTE. 26 NORTH RIGHT AT RTE. 20 INN ON RIGHT

SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 22

BIG CIT Y G ETAWAY mums The Word!

Jeff Bahr Recently I found myself cruising through eastern Pennsylvania. I wasn’t roaming aimlessly. My attention was set on a puffy white cloud lying just over the horizon. I guess you might say that this innocuous pillow had a potentially dark side since it sprang not from nature, but rather from a pair of menacing stacks at the Limerick Nuclear Power Plant. Perhaps it’s a guy thing. There’s just something about humongous cooling towers brewing nuclear tea that sucks some of us in. After tracking my quarry, I stopped for a few snapshots of the five-hundred-foot beasties, remounted, and then headed north.

Soon I would encounter a bucolic sight that completely contradicted the stark, concrete monoliths I’d just observed. Can you say flowers? Actually, strike that. This was more like flowers on steroids. Truth told it was

daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind even more than that. In fact, this preposterously sized “bouquet” was so uniquely exquisite it could melt the veneer of the most hardened individuals.

Feeling myself dissolving into sloppy goo, I pulled over to answer its florid call.

To avoid any misunderstandings allow me to clarify. Ott’s Exotic Flowers is first and foremost a flower store. As proof, there are scores of flower pots situated about the premises, flanked by bag upon bag of top soil stacked neatly in piles. There’s also a greenhouse fairly bursting with nature’s finery and everything it seems has a price tag. But these nursery staples are hopelessly overshadowed by what I have come to deem “Mount Mums.” If this name sounds a bit unimaginative, please understand that I really don’t know what else to call it.

Close your eyes. Now, conjure up an image of a hill perhaps thirty-feet tall. On top of this mound there’s a walking path with killer views of all lying beneath it.

For some people this would be quite enough. For Ott’s groundskeepers, apparently not. To visually help the hill along, Ott’s artisans display a “few” chrysanthemums (mums) during the fall season. How many is a few? There are mums on the peak, mums on the slopes, mums on the flanks, and mums in the cols. There are red mums, yellow mums, purple mums, green mums, Type-A mums that scream out to the world “hey, look at me!” and mums only slightly more subdued. There’s even a twisting tunnel situated beneath the mums so that one needn’t trample pretty mums on one side of the mountain in order to reach pretty mums on the other.

I personally counted at least two-dozen different varieties of these supercolorful flowers but I’m guessing there’s even more than that. For riders already enchanted by Shelburne Falls’ Bridge of Flowers, a Fall visit to Mount Mums is absolutely essential. But springtime has its charms, too. During our beloved season of motorcycle renewal, Ott’s covers their mountain with another outrageously vivid tapestry. What flowers are featured this time ‘round?

Why not swing by and see for yourself?

Trust me; it will be well worth your while.

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

Page 23

The mountain of flowers isn’t the only thing worth recommending. A bona-fide land of enchantment can also be found inside Ott’s greenhouse. The enormous glass building mimics a scaled-down Disneyland more than a gardenvariety (get it?) enclosure. You never really know what you’ll find around the bend. Hint: Nothing less than a fullblown rain forest awaits your eyes. Just follow the undulating brick path and you’ll see everything that’s worth seeing.

When you tell your friends about this veritable feast for the orbs, remember, MUMS the word.

When you go: A visit to nearby Skippack Village will nicely round out your day. On any Sunday, hordes of motorcyclists invade

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this quaint hamlet and for good reason. Aside from the agreeable architecture of its 18th and 19th century buildings, Skippack features boutiques and eateries, antiques and art galleries, ice cream parlors and cafes. A thick event schedule features everything from craft shows to free outdoor concerts. A genuine happening on weekends, Skippack held its first Annual Bike Show in June of 2010 and plans to do so again each year. If you’re looking for a reflective spot to decompress, make sure to visit the button-cute covered bridge nestled up beside the classy Hotel Fiesole. Just don’t be too surprised if I’ve beaten you there.

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Page 24 PRODUCT REVIEW

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When the weather gets rough the Transition 2 has you covered as well with a waterproof and breathable Rainguard barrier, allowing dryness without perspiration buildup and a 2-way main zipper closure with dual wind flap seals out the elements.

With technology like this we are still surprised riders need rain suits.

When it gets hot the jacket has waterproof zippered 3-position shoulder vents combine with chest vents, sleeve vents, rear exit vents and the Pipeline Ventilation System to provide flow-through ventilation. When it’s cooler out you’ll find Tourmaster’s Z.O.Q. (Zip-Out Quilted) Liner featuring warming 100 gram Polyfill insulation. When it gets dark the Transition Jacket has a reflective strip across the back and chest, reflective sleeve piping, Phoslite material panels and Tourmaster’s signature reflective rear triangle for increased nighttime visibility.

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Page 26

Southbound

Touring through the seasons

L

ooking up to the peaks of Virginia’s Skyline Drive, the clouds ribboning throughout it looked about as dark and gloomy as one could imagine. It didn’t take too much thinking to know that a Plan B was about to be hatched. Right in front of us was Route 340, also known as the Stonewall Jackson Highway, and that was kind of heading in the same direction we needed to go this day – which was south.

We had left New Jersey around mid-morning on the mid-April day in a fairly steady drizzle. We never seem to mind getting caught up in the rain, but starting a trip, especially the first real road trip of the year for us, was downright disheartening.

But as the t-shirt says “Rain Happens.”

And, this day, rain was happening in a big way with a strong storm front painted green, yellow and red from Georgia all the way to upstate New York on my computer screen.

We needed to be places, most especially in the Georgia mountains in a week for a BMW press introduction of their new K1600s, but also a couple of rendezvous’ with friends and family along the way.

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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011 So, with miles to make, we cinched up the gear and turned on the Gerbings and set off for the Mason Dixon Line and beyond.

The plan was simply to make some headway along the big roads to Front Royal and then a nice romp on the Skyline Drive and a touch of the Blue Ridge Parkway. From there we’d be heading down into the valley to the east and, eventually, across the border to North Carolina and a few fun days with our friends Richard and Dee Dee Ford in Durham. Then it was on to Georgia and a visit with other riding friends, the Gardners, before spending some time with BMW and their new K1600 machines in the mountains in the northern part of the state. Eventually we’d turn north and bounce around the mountains and states as we made our way back home.

This day, with the Skyline Drive completely socked in we chose the valley route.

As pretty as the vistas are from atop the mountains the valleys themselves offer a bit of true Americana.

As we had made our way down from New Jersey the constant rain had abated a bit and we had a few hours of dry in between the storms. The storms returned with a vengeance just north of Luray and spying a sign for the Mim-

Page 27

slyn Inn, a wonderful refurbished hotel that dates from the 1930, we plotted a course there.

Walking into the opulent lobby, looking more like two drowned rats than travelers, the woman at the desk couldn’t be nicer and soon we were showered, warm and dressed and ready to explore the hotel.

The Mimslyn had both dinner and jazz in their downstairs tavern, The Speak Easy. And, with Mother Nature throwing a tantrum outside we stayed in.

The next morning the heavy rains had moved to the north and east leaving behind a heavy curtain of dark clouds and fog necklaced around the Skyline Drive. This kept us off the famed road for the better part of the morning but let us enjoy the valley road south to Waynesboro.

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Page 28

weeks before the magic of Spring would reach our home, but in the south the conjuring of the season had already begun.

By mid afternoon we crossed into North Carolina and headed to Casa Ford, outside Durham.

We love traveling with good friends; but enjoy visiting their homes as well.

Nice to have a good time, great food and wine while the bikes took a break and cooled off in the Ford’s garage.

We had never been to Durham before so we put ourselves in the Ford’s hands and did a tour of this charming southern city – Duke University, the old tobacco district and then a few hours at the Bennett Farm.

The week we were here was the 150 anniversary of the start of the bloodiest time in our nation’s history – the Civil War – and it was at this farm where General Johnston surrendered to General Sherman putting a final end to this sad chapter of American history.

The great weather continued the following day and we were heading back across the state and returning to the mountains.

Here, after a hearty breakfast, the skies that had been lightening finally began to clear. Heading south was blue skies; in our mirrors sullen gray.

We picked up the Blue Ridge Parkway where it meets the Skyline and headed south on the most famous mountain roadway in North America.

Now being all that famous doesn’t make it the very best – it just has notoriety. In our opinion the parkway, as sweet and easy as it is to ride, cannot hold a candle to any of the feeder roadways that bring traffic to and from the Blue Ride Parkway - this is where the real twisty fun can be found.

Still we enjoyed our hour or so southbound; riding the parkway with flashes of purples, whites and yellows letting us know what time of year it was. The lack of any traffic whatsoever also reminded us that is was midApril and not mid-July. With enough parkway fun for a time we dropped down into the valley to the east on one of those snakey feeder roadways of fun and began our trek south across Virginia towards the border with the Tar Heel State.

As is our way we did a good job staying off the busier main thoroughfares and kept to a series of tiny county roads, made all that much easier these days with GPS technology and a little pre-planning. The further south we went the warmer it got. Gerbing gear was stowed and layers put away as we rode into another season. Here everything was in full bloom. It would be

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Page 29

Along the way we made a side stop to Elon University to have breakfast with our niece Rachel and then continued across the North Carolina Piedmont, eventual gaining some altitude and curvy roads as we reached the foothills of the mountains.

Our path would take us past Lake Lure and Chimney Rock along the fan-

Taking this as our cue we headed out and then south and soon crossed into South Carolina.

Bearing west we rode through small towns full of country charm and larger strip mall communities that had no charm at all - the Amerification of our nation has nothing much to be desired.

Heading back toward the mountains on the Appalachian Highway we crossed the Tugaloo river and into Georgia near Toccoa. The town of Toccoa struck a chord with us and, looking for a place for lunch we knew why, and where we would be dining.

Years back we made mention of a restaurant called Shirley’s Sole Food Café.

Shirley Combs-Kay has a wonderful quaint little place, but this tiny restaurant has the biggest heart. You see each day, after a booming lunch business, Shirley opens her

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Karilea and Kevin Rhea have been supplying riders with the highest quality riding gear for years – you see us riding with Olympia riding gear all the time in these pages; there is a reason for that - and we stopped by their offices to say hi.

Olympia’s offices are incredible, with so much pure riding protection all housed in one spot – it might be the safest place in the southeast.

We accepted a gracious invitation to overnight with them at their stunning home, and it was good that we did for “Round Two” of really mean, nasty and cruel weather was flying in from the west at an alarming speed. Better to park the steeds under cover this night and enjoy nice people and good times.

The next day we were heading to Atlanta and we hoped for a somewhat dry ride.

In the morning we gave the weather a few extra hours to move out. This was a deadly event with dozens killed by the storm and its destructive straightline winds in Alabama and Mississippi and we wanted to be in the back end of this as we returned to the asphalt.

By ten o’clock the blanket of dark gray skies showed patchworks of blue and the misting had stopped altogether.

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SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 30 doors to the local homeless, destitute and hungry and then she feeds them.

We were impressed with this woman years back and it is warming to the heart to see her not only continuing but reaching further, opening shelters and continuing the good fight. She is truly a special human being and her food more than rocks too!

We rarely ask much from you readers but if you drop a $5 bill in the mail to her shelter we’d all be better off and it really won’t hurt any of us all that much for a small kindness.

Shirley’s Shelter, 124 West Currahee St., Toccoa, GA 30577. Thanks!

After too much sole food (her spelling; we won’t argue with her) we continued our bearing towards the sprawling suburb of Atlanta called Marietta.

Shira had planned the route and it took us through a good part of north Georgia, scouting past Helen and then south on some seriously twisty roads.

Along the way my Roadside America program alerted me to a bit of Mysterious America as we passed the grave of Trahlyta, a Cherokee princess. The legend is her people knew of the Fountain of Youth, but this day there is only a large rock cairn actually found at the intersection of two highways – literally in the middle of the road.

Heading toward Atlanta things and traffic got busier but in no time we rolled into the Gardner’s drive, once

again reunited with old friends.

We had a good night talking bikes and travel stories, both of which we are very good at embellishing on.

The next day we had non-motorcycle plans as our Mets were in town to play the Braves. Jim had never been to a Major League Baseball game, not really a ball & stick guy, but we had tickets and with the appropriate New York blue and orange Metropolitan clothing we headed for Turner Field – home of the Atlanta Braves. Thankfully it was not in vain as the Blue & Orange took the first game in awhile from the Braves 3-2. We’ll take it.

That Monday we were scheduled to meet with BMW of North America for the United States Press Intro of their new flagship the K1600GT & GTL a bit north of Atlanta, so after a farewell breakfast we loaded up the bikes and got back on the road again.

Our ride today was just sixty miles so we meandered a bit along some Georgian backroads and took a sweep through Red Mountain State Park; which was short but sweet.

This part of Georgia is home to the largest preserved Indian Mounds in the southeast so a quick stop at Etowah was in order. These mounds that are found around the eastern part of the United States have always fascinated us and their close resemblance to the pyramids of Mexico, South America and Africa is hard to ignore.

By early afternoon we rolled into the famous Barnsley Gardens. Laid out in the style of an English village the place was designed in the fashion of Andrew Jackson Downing, America’s first great landscape gardener.

BMW had chosen this for the American intro of the new K1600 GT and GTL and, with warm Spring weather abounding, it was a perfect location.

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

Page 31

We made ourselves at home in a little cottage we had and then explore the grounds and took in the museum and ruins of the original house on the property.

Press Intros are interesting things. The manufacturer brings individual publications out to a fine location, presents their newest offering and the attending scribes spend a day or two romping around the region; generally trying to beat the snot out of these new machines. Sometimes the bikes are just another incarnation of the same basic machines that have been around for a few season but every now and again something comes along that really makes you take notice. In this case it was BMW’s newest flagships the K1600GT & GTL. Our full review was in the June 2011 issue earlier this year, but let me tell you the ride this day around the mountains of northern Georgia was superb. Shira jumped on the back and played pillion for 250 or so hardy miles.

When you head towards the steep tarmac of Fort Mountain State Park and spy a sign that warns trucks there is a steep grade ahead and then another for Sharp Turns for the next 33 miles you know you are in for a great ride; this was followed by Route 60 that kept me at full attention for its entire length and lunch at the ornate Monteluce Winery was a nice touch as well.

We swapped machines after lunch and it was basically try to follow the leader all the way through the Chattahoochee Forest to Amicaloa Falls.

Shira and I rode back to Barnsley Gardens on our own stopping here and there for the “digital moment” and turning it down a few notches for the rest of the ride.

We had dinner at sunset in the ruins of the old mansion and then a number of us got back on the K1600s to get a first hand look at BMW’s new Adaptive Headlight that allows the headlight to turn with the bike. Very impressive.

With work done for the day we were treated to a Beer Garden under the bright Georgian stars.

Late that night I watched Jim Cantore tell me that yet another band of heavy rain and destructive winds were on the way and the radar showed greens, yellows and reds from the Gulf to Canada.

We had planned a later start for this day and, with luck on our side, the rains past us by during breakfast and by 11:30 am we were on the road north to Tennessee with our friend Rob Mitchell.

Rob was once the Press Maven for BMW and had attended the intro for Roundel, the BMW auto enthusiast magazine. He and his wife Susan had moved down from New Jersey to the Volunteer State and we headed to Chattanooga to have lunch with Susan, visiting her beautiful church (she’s a real life Pastor don’tcha know?) and taking a quick tour of this lovely southern city before vectoring off ourselves in a generally north, northeast direction.

It was time to head home Mr. Paperman.

We rode with Rob along the Tennessee river, which looks more like a series of huge lakes thanks to the Army Corp of Engineer’s many dams and one well place Nuclear Plant. Near Watts Bar Lake he veered home and we continued up through Tennessee.

Staying on the backroads we rode around Oakridge, America’s Nuclear City, where the beginnings of the Atomic Bomb had its start and into the foothills that make this part of the state a joy to ride.

By evening we rode into Cumberland Gap, a place where the westward expansion of this country had it starts too, only to find the town had rolled up its streets. Looking for a meal and a bed we rode through the tunnel into

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Page 32 Middleborough, Kentucky for the night.

They say bad things come in threes – well, great thing do too.

This next day we had great Presidents, great friends and great roads.

We had ended up in a Holiday Inn Express that night and in the morning we came down to run into President Abraham Lincoln.

The Lincoln University is found right at Cumberland Gap and this man looked and acted every bit the way our 16th President handled himself. He even told us a New Jersey joke; an unusual way to start what would be our biggest day on the road this entire trip.

We got going through the southeastern part of the Blue Grass state along a series of twisty secondary roads that mimicked the neighboring West Virginia more than the Kentucky we are more familiar with to the north.

Riding over one mountain named Inspiration we could see how it got its name.

We burned through a full tank of fuel the first part of the day along roads that rose and fell, twisted and turned and had incredibly light traffic and no law enforcement that we saw; just the occasional small town, school zone or fuel station.

By early afternoon we crossed into one of our favorite haunts – West Virginia. It was riding nirvana and this tendency would last the entire day.

In the town of Marmet we stopped to fuel up and take a break. In the parking lot of a Krogers an SUV pulled up and the woman exclaimed, “What the heck are you all doing here?”

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What were the odds?

Continuing on through the Mountain State we started to race the clock as

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dusk was approaching. Sol was beginning his quick drop as we rocketed through the Monogahela Forest towards Marlington.

A quick note here on the roads in this part of the country. Route 219, around the Marlington area has to be one of the finest riding roads in the nation. Not only does the road curve with a gracefully beauty but the road gods felt fit to twist the roads, like a child would a Hot Wheels track, and the bikes felt like they were on a roller coaster rather than a road.

We shot north along Route 219, past the monster called Snowshoe, and were very grateful to find the Brazen Head alive, well and open in Mingo Flats. Turning off the BMWs we saw we had ridden some 425 serious and twistilicious miles that day; serious miles along the backroads.

Will Fanning runs one of the most rider-friendly places we know. A member of our Moto-Inn Program his hotel, restaurant and bar are everything a rider or riders could want while traveling in West Virginia. How can you not love a bar that has a guitar, piano, upright bass and fiddle for folks to get up and play?

Worked for us that night.

We had lucked out up till this day on this trip, dodging storm fronts, tempest and rain but this next day our luck had run out.

A solid bunch of cold moisture had laid itself from Kentucky to Maine and brought along with it cold temperatures.

Rising that day we found rain about to turn to snow in the mountains of West Virginia and layers and Gerbings were once again in order.

We had a great route planned over some of the tiny West VA roads we know, but cooler heads prevailed and we re-routed along less tactical pavement, but still managed a few hundred miles of mountain roads on our way out of the state.

Seneca Rocks never looked as pretty so shrouded in mist.

At this point we scooted around familiar tarmac and then made a run for Backroads Central, hidden in the forests of Northwest New Jersey.

Touring during this time of year is an interesting thing as we felt we rode from late winter into Spring, took in a bit of summer, and then rode back a few months into the wet chill; finishing off back home soaking away the deep chill that had set in our bones in the way-too-hot tub.

We wouldn’t have it any other way.

SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 34

Map 582 Mid-Atlantic Loop

We love maps. All sorts of maps. In fact one of our favorite author’s name is McNally. One series of maps we have come to particularly rely on are from Michelin. They are numbered around the world and #582 is the Mid-Atlantic region of the United States.

Running from the northern end of Pennsylvania south to the Virginias and from the Atlantic coast to near Ohio, it covers a big swath of land and most of it is prime riding territory.

Looking at the map we came up with an idea and in mid-June we packed up the two BMWs and took off for what we simply called Map 582.

Now a few years back we did a feature on a super little hotel called the Charlesworth, which

you will find at New Jersey’s land end in the tiny non-town of Fortescue.

Except for the Charlesworth there is not much happening here – unless you are a fisherman, then this is the place to be.

Our friends at Weird NJ have called this part of the Garden state the most desolate in New Jersey. We just think it is as charming as can be.

Shira had mentioned that she wanted a return trip to the Charlesworth and looking at Map #582 it would fit most reasonably with our plan.

We headed down through the western part of the state, hitting a number of county roads we had never traveled on before.

New Jersey takes a bad wrap from the rest of the country, but the truth is it is a wonderfully beautiful place and widely diverse as our ride this day would show.

We scooted down from the farms and forests of the north and then along the hilly countryside that makes up the central part of the state.

We rode through the Ivy League town of Princeton, which is a stunning architectural happening all by itself, and then south and around Fort Dix and McGuire Air Force Base that had a number of big cargo jets rumble over our heads.

From here we rode into the Pine Barrens, the largest growth of this sort in the United States and we kept a sharp eye out for the Jersey Devil who did not show.

The tiny roads were bordered with deep sand and there were dozens of empty cranberry bogs to the right and left. Later in the

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

Page 35 rection along the small county roads that all link up in one way or another. The ride brought us along a great mix of the south Jersey sea grasses and some impressive farms where drier land could be found.

We had never really explored this part of New Jersey but were not surprised at its natural beauty.

We needed to get over to Delaware and the big Double Spans at the bottom of the New Jersey Turnpike worked nicely.

season they would be flooded and full of Thanksgiving goodness ready to happen.

As we neared the Delaware Bay we vectored west and then followed the road that wound along the rivers, estuaries and bays that seemed to stretch to infinity.

We pulled into the Charlesworth around 5ish and I did a little exploring, looking for the Atlantic Horseshoe Crab that this region is famous for.

For millions of years the crabs have come to these very shores to breed and this, in turn, brings thousands of migratory sea birds to feast.

The cruel circle of Mother Nature, all in the southern shores of New Jersey.

We were joined that night by my buddy Alan and his friend Kim. They live across the bay in Delaware and rode over to enjoy the sunset, restaurant and flavors that this quirky, but very neat hotel has to offer.

Fortescue is a “dry” town so we brought our own vino in for sunset and dinner.

Dinner at the Charlesworth was as good as I remembered and we are proud they are part of our Moto-Inn Program.

We were on the road early the next day heading in a general western di-

In no time we were on the borders of Delaware and Maryland and bearing due west towards the Piedmont region of the state.

As we left the coast Marlyand’s roads took on a far more hilly personality.

We had plotted this entire loop to run along the smaller roads; as they are always more fun, and this little bit of pre-planning paid off in a big way this day as we ended up with a little less than 300 miles of some seriously pleasurable riding.

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Page 36

Along one road in the town of Cooptown there was a large car show. We had not much of a schedule on this ride; in fact, we had no schedule, planning to ride into each evening and see where we were.

Besides this region is where much of the chromium that makes “chrome” came from so stopping was a must.

That in mind we stopped for a half hour and took in the show. I love great old cars and there were one or two here that really had me drooling. Oh, for a ‘69 Mustang Fastback to be in my future!

Back on the road we followed a route that we had used a few years back for a Spring Break and rode through Catoctin Mountain Park. The road here twists along a strong flowing creek that runs off the mountain and we dropped by the Visitors Center and then continued through the park itself.

Now Catoctin is very beautiful, but there was another reason we wanted to ride through. As you head up the peak there is one section - #3 - that has many signs warning not to stop nor take any pictures whatsoever – under penalty of arrest and fines.

Why? Well this is Camp David – the Presidential retreat.

We slowed but did not stop and even I wussied out on the Nikon moment.

Catoctin is stunning and we can see why Camp David is here.

Following along some serious grin-inspiring pavement, that matched anything we have ridden in the area, we made our way towards Antietam and the famed Civil War battlefield there.

Much like Gettysburg there is a solemn, almost holy, feeling in these rolling hills and we stopped here and there reading the history of this infamous fray.

This was the bloodiest one day battle in American history and 23,000 soldiers were killed, wounded or missing after twelve hours of savage combat on September 17, 1862.

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It baffles the mind and saddens the heart.

In the town of Sharpsburg we lightened the mood with some excellent ice cream and then crossed the bridge into one of our favorite places, West “By God” Virginia!

Can we say Yeehaa!?

I had routed us along a few roads that we had never ridden and the Tuscarora Pike into Shanghai Mountain Road was tight, twisty, and very high as we ran over the ridge. This road is a keeper.

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

Page 37 be deep into “Carpet of the Sun” by Renaissance.

We had a bit of precip that night and the next morning both radar and the skies looked threatening.

Being a ‘Man of Science’ I made sure the rain covers were on the tank bags snugly and we took off for the day.

In just a matter of minutes we were on the backroads and riding through three different states in about three minutes.

West Virginia, Maryland and then into Pennsylvania.

It was here in Pennsylvania that we would spend the next few days beating tracks around the tiny Keystone roads.

The route continued on its roller coaster flavor and soon we were making a right turn onto one of the best roads in the northeast – certainly in PA. Yeah, yeah, I know everyone has “The Best Road” but we dare you to ride the southern portion of PA’s Route 26 and not say “That was a damn great road!” For those of you who were rode our Spring Break to Rocky Gap you will remember this piece of pavement paradise.

Shanghai dropped us off on Route 13, a more familiar piece of pavement and we even passed the Farnham Colossi, a Mysterious America from some year’s back.

Route 13, on a well-suspended machine, simply rocks and in no time we rolled into Berkley Springs where we took a room at the big inn in the center of town. The Country Inn also has some Backroads history to it, as it was a stop on one of our rallies a few years back. It’s a decent stopover while riding down this way as the town has plenty to offer and the baths that made the town famous are right next door.

We strolled down to a funky little barbeque called the Earth Dog Café’, great food, some adult beverage and some local music let the long day in the saddle slide off us and all was very good on the roads of Map 582.

Actually the band started off a little lame but they got increasingly better the more they drank. We left at 10 but we were sure by midnight they would

SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 38 Heading north we enjoyed every mile that ‘ol 26 had to offer and then rode into Everret for breakfast.

The old Union Hotel looked good, but it was Father’s Day and we didn’t feel like wasting time on brunch when a few eggs and bacon was all we needed so we rode down to Kelly’s Mountain View, with a great view of… the cemetery?

Oh, well.

But, right next door there were not one but two “Roadside America” stops.

An ice cream shop built like a giant sundae, which our resident purveyor of the summertime delicacy had to stop by, and the “World’s Largest Quarter”, part of the Giants of the Lincoln Highway Project.

We’re not sure of this but I am sure O’Life or Jeff Bahr will let us in on it eventually.

We vectored off Route 30 searching out some more exciting macadam and found it on Snake Hill Road, aptly named, and then continued west.

We made it a point to stop by the Johnstown Flood National Memorial to learn a bit more of this horrible tragedy that took so many lives

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so quickly on May 31, 1889. We took in the film and walked the museum, another day and another useless and unnecessary waste of lives on a grand scale.

But as sad as it is, it is part of the fabric of America’s history.

With the help of the US Military and Garmin, the route continued in a scenic and twisty manner all the way to the suburbs of the steel city of Pittsburgh.

I was batting a 1000 on this trip so far!

Neither Shira nor I had ever been to Pittsburgh and, being baseball fans, I had routed us past the Pirates stadium at the meeting of the Three Rivers. Since we had a week to kill we took a room at the Inn on the Mexican War Streets. The place has an odd name but Jeff and Carl,

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011 the owners have something very good here in Pittsburgh and, with off street parking and a superb central location, it would make the perfect base for us for the next couple of days.

Unpacked, showered and human again we set off into the Steel City’s night.

We’re not big city types, especially when on tour, but Pittsburgh is as charming as a metropolis can get.

Located at the confluence of three rivers, the Monongahela, Allegheny and Ohio, it has much to offer two riders taking a day off the bikes.

On the one side the high ridge of Mount Washington can be reached by two inclines and there are a number of restaurants up there that offer a great view of Pittsburgh’s skyline.

We rode both.

If you are a birder the National Aviary was absolutely a de-

light and well worth an hour or two.

If you like you can Duck Boat along the river and see the sights from the water.

That night the Pirates were playing the Baltimore Orioles, a replay of the World Series 40 years ago this season, so after a day of exploring we took in the game at PNC. In our humble opinion, this is one of the most beautiful and well thought out parks we have ever seen.

Even the lights have been place so as not to obstruct the view of the skyline.

Wilpons take note.

The Pirates got soaked!

From the Steel City we headed north along the Allegheny River and then spun northeast through the ra-

Page 39 zorback hills that dominate the region. The roads here get immediately twisty as they follow the contour of the land. We slowed down in Apollo stopping to see their impressive monument to those fallen in service and then continued north.

Spotting a lone oil pump in a field we knew we had entered the oil region of Pennsylvania. Here, at one time, everybody had a derrick trying to be the next Rockefeller.

Crossing over I-80 I felt like we had returned to our home latitude.

A dozen or so years ago we had ridden in South Africa with our buddy Don McDaniel. He had recently moved to western PA and as we rode through his town we spotted his street and spent some time with an old friend.

82 years old and he had just bought a new motorcycle!

A few months back we had plans to look for Pennsylvania elk, which was taken apart by some serious storms. That wouldn’t be the case this time around as we rode into Benezette.

Right off PA’s triple nickel you will find the Elk County Visitor center.

This is a brand new facility, opened this past Fall, and here you will learn the story of the reintroduction of elk herds back to the Keystone state.

They also have a house for rent right on the park’s grounds and we took it for the night.

The house was very comfortable and had a great silo porch view of the elk. We made ourselves at home for the evening with a bottle of wine and sunset on the longest day of the year… as we watched dozens of these huge and beautiful beasts enjoying the evening in the field in front of us.

SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 40 Life was just about perfect this day.

The next day we would be vectoring home, along many roads we have ridden numerous times.

This part of Pennsylvania seemed to be created for motorcyclists. We stopped in Renovo for breakfast at Yesterday’s and then took a long day’s ride on the backroads east. By evening the Delaware River was under our wheels as we crossed back into New Jersey, where we started this journey just six days earlier.

Map 582 had been ridden, but still not fully explored; that just might be up to you.

Pull out those maps, make a loose plan and get going. You never know what you will find.

charlesworth hotel, 224 New Jersey Ave, fortescue, NJ • 856-447-4928 catoctin state Park, Thurmont, md • www.nps.gov/cato/index.htm country inn at Berkeley springs, 110 s. Washington st, Berkeley spring, Wv 304-258-2210 • thecountryinnatberkeleysprings.com earth dog café, 398 s. Washington st, Berkeley springs, Wv • 304-258-0500 giants of the lincoln highway Project • www.lhhc.org/giants.asp Johnstown flood museum, 304 Washington st, Johnstown, PA • www.jaha.org inn on the mexican War streets, 604 West North Ave, Pittsburgh, PA 412-231-6544 • www.innonthemexicanwarstreets.com elk county visitors center, 134 homestead dr, Benezette, www.elkcountryvisitorcenter.com

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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

Carpe Deum Second Time Around New Zealand

Michele Bissonnette

In March 2010, I toured the South Island of New Zealand with John Fitzwater from GoTourNZ.com. My story of that tour was published in the July 2010 issue of the BMWMOA magazine under the title, “A Yankee in New Zealand.”

John and I have stayed in touch since my March ’10 tour, and I’d been dreaming of a return visit. He had been telling me about his new Backroad Adventure Combo Tour he’d been researching and developing for the 2011 riding season. The itinerary included a 3 day off road skills training module he was offering to clients. So when John emailed me and asked me if I’d like to accompany him on an “adventure” tour around the North or South Island in May to experience/appraise his new Off Road Adventure Combo tour package he had been developing, he had my full attention. He explained it was time for his Annual Blue Cod Pilgrimage to Stewart Island, off the bottom of the South Island, for his annual feed of Blue Cod. Was I a starter? “OK, so it’s just a glorified fish and chip run then?” I’m in. I had wanted to get more comfortable riding un-paved roads and improve my skills in gravel/dirt situations so of course I couldn’t say no! Ready for me to ride was a lowered BMW F650 GS. He sweetened the invitation promising a visit to Invercargill to check out the “World’s Fastest Indian” motorcycle exhibit and museum.

Page 41

Page 42 GoTourNZ.com’s Offroad Adventure Combo tour proved popular in the 2010-11 season. The concept of the Combo tour is this: With the growing interest in adventure/dual purpose “Long Way Round” style of touring, John developed some tour packages that accommodate both those clients who long for gravel/adventure, and those who want to ride on good condition sealed roads... hence the Combo name. On the same tour, the Adventure group ride with a guide via off the beaten track unpaved back road trails, and the other group travel the sealed road option with the support of the luxury tour coach. Depending upon each client’s skill and experience level, they can choose to switch between the two route options. If an adventure section is particularly technical, John helps each client make a choice as to which route option to take. John and his assistant guide offer assistance and training to those riders who are up for it - Many riders take advantage of the opportunity to up skill.

We originally planned to tour the North Island adventure routes, but upon arrival monsoon-like conditions on the North Island led us to deciding to concentrate on riding the South Island options. Get the hell out of Dodge! The rain was coming in so we decided to quickly head south, looking for what promised to be finer weather.

My first introduction to off road was our dirt ride through the Braeburn Track and Fords with some fun, unintimidating water crossings. We were soon rewarded with a deluge of rain for the next 2 hours until we reached

SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS our hotel. We celebrated with a few cold beers, warm food and great laughs with the locals. After a few days of riding along the breathtaking West Coast drenched in sunshine and revisiting the spectacular Glaciers we decided to concentrated our intentions on Central Otago (Queenstown area) adventure trails, and continue on towards the southernmost part of the Island where I hadn’t toured on my previous visit.

We couldn’t escape the weather.

May was unseasonably wet over the whole of New Zealand. We had based ourselves at this charming B&B, Olivers, in Clyde. Rain!

Rain! Rain. 3 inches fell in 12 hours. A new record. Many adventure trails were made impassable because of high river flows. Small brooks and streams became raging torrents. We did our best all the same. We rode Thompson’s Track from Bendigo to Omakau - or perhaps that should best be called Thompson’s Torrent!

It was awash, and after nearly getting through, we were thwarted at the last stream... that had become a raging torrent. With only a quarter of a mile to go we had to backtrack. I was beginning to get worried, tired and my tires were slick with caked on mud. I wasn’t looking forward to a re-do but with John’s instructions and my mantra “I’m not going to die”, I was soon soaking in a tub of hot water sipping a nice glass of red wine.

Our spirits were not dampened due to the inclement weather and neither was the scenery. We got the hell out of Dodge again via a side trip down

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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011 the Millenium Track unpaved dirt road and headed for Stewart Island. John’s mouth was beginning to water, longing for the taste of his Blue Cod! Arriving just one half an hour before ferry departure, the bikes were lifted via ropes onto the ferry.

Forty five minutes later we were booked into a hotel, drinking the local beer while enjoying a spectacular sunset and satisfying John’s Blue Cod craving. Since the Island has less than 4 miles of paved roads, the next day we hopped on a boat to do a walking tour of Ulva Island with the charming Ulva Goodwillie, a native Maori, and the Ulva Island bird sanctuary guide. Ulva Island was used as the mail post for the folks living on Stewart Island. After pigging out on Blue Cod and being off the bikes for a few days, an amazing sunrise awaited us as we ferried ourselves and the bikes back to Invercargill to see Burt Munro and the bike museum in Hammer Hardware. His Annual Blue Cod pilgrimage over, John returned to the mainland and his vegan lifestyle.

A stormy ride around the Catlins Coast via The Southern Scenic Route didn’t put a damper on our adventurous spirits. After instructions on how to ride on gravel roads we headed to Curio Bay. While touring in NZ, I’ve ridden nearly a whole day without sharing the road with another vehicle. I’ve ridden behind impassable cows and nervous sheep. But never have I ever had to share the road with a gravel grader. I was finding this part of the adventure very challenging and questioning my abilities. First lesson riding NZ just graded roads; never ride close to the edge. Ever! I found myself in gravel at least 6” deep, and in an instant was propelled up and over to the other side of the road just like slipping on a banana peel. As John puts it, “Michele valiantly saves bike from damage by selflessly throwing herself underneath it and then learns to speak a totally new language, consisting mainly of grunts and

Page 43 groans.” Thankfully a passing truck stopped and 4 farmers came to my rescue lifting the bike off of me. My left side was hurting. After a quick evaluation: cough, breath in deeply, palpate the area…it was determined to be a broken rib….ouch! These guys wrestle cows, sheep, and pigs all day. I’ll believe their diagnosis! Now there’s no other way out but for me to ride the bike. Driving 30KPH wasn’t going to get me anywhere fast so John drives his bike to the end of the road and gets a ride back with a farmer.

John hops on my bike and I hop into the truck. “Now Miss, if you find ya can’t drive that bike of yours you come on over to that house over there and we’ll find floor space for you and your friend to spend the night.” A sore Michele and John head for Balclutha.

Not ready to tackle anything new just yet, with the sun leading the way, we headed for Dunedin and rode the Otago Peninsula - a wild ride after another big storm washed half the highway into the sea. Trees were down. Roads were closed. But nothing could take

Page 44 away from the exhilaration of riding the twists and turns or overshadow the magnificent scenery along this area. The hills, valleys, and farm land painted in every shade of green reached out to the sea.

Being the Fall season, I was warned that we would get some cold weather so I brought my heated jacket. Unfortunately, the bike wouldn’t allow the current to keep flowing. The folks at Mciver and Veitch graciously offered John one of their bays and tools so that he could rig the heattroller directly to the battery. Warm, dry and toasty we stopped in Oamaru. I loved the historic whitestone buildings in this historic precinct. A wealthy town in past times, but now the home of many small, artsy businesses, taverns, bakeries and a wool processing operation.

Moving on towards Timaru we rode the limestone valleys around Ngapara and saw the film set from Narnia.

The next day we rode inland via the gorgeous Pareora Valley and Cave. We ventured further North to Hanmer Springs via H72 Inland Scenic route, a popular vacation spot for people of Canterbury and Christchurch. We stayed at Cheltenham House B&B with Len and Maree Earl fabulous B&B and hospitality. We treated ourselves to a first rate dinner at a restaurant named Malabar ... where I had baked blue cod for the last time!

Thunder, lightning and rain came in during the night so our departure was a wet one. With the weather being crap and me feeling the same way we opted not to ride the Molesworth or Rainbow routes, but blast back to Nelson via The Lewis Pass. In between the raindrops you could still take in the scenery of the Alpine Mountains and the riding was still spectacular.

Throughout the entire tour, John’s raingear leaked. Once we reached our destination, he couldn’t remove his raingear fast enough to throw it into the trash bin! With some warm soup in us and a glass of wine we prayed for

SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS sunshine for the next day hoping to do some local rides and adventure roads around Nelson.

Finally we saw the sun. For the next two days we rode around Nelson. The first of our rides took us up the Mt. Arthur access road and we did some more off road/gravel riding two-up. I was happy for this style of riding instructions. I could feel what the bike could do and have John show me how to react to the different situations presented to me. What if I’m going too fast for a corner?

What if I start slipping? The buzz going on in my head was starting to subside. We stopped off at the oldest tavern in New Zealand for a celebratory beer! We rode a loop via The Motueka River valley, and Kaiteriteri in gorgeous weather and on some of the twistiest roads on the tour. The last and final day was filled with complete sunshine from start to finish.

I was told that John receives many emails from people he has had tour with him exclaiming how their riding skills improved after touring in NZ. I can say that is definitely true for me after riding in both tours especially with my braking and cornering. But more than that, there is a confidence that I gained after riding in NZ this time around.

That confidence may not actually display itself in the physical sense of riding but more in the mental sense. I fell in the pot holes, I fell in the gravel but each time I got up, brushed myself off and started all over again. Did I feel like I was in over my head? You betcha. Did I want to quit? Hell yes. I look forward to the days when I don’t panic, instead of thinking about every move I have to make; I look forward to the days when it comes more naturally. I know that I will find myself in these situations again as I choose to ride in more adventure tours and even when riding with friends. I still don’t like the dirt or the gravel but I’m determined that it’s not going to get the best of me! for tour information visit www.goTourNZ.com

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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

Page 45

kelly’s ice creAm 4325 NorTh delAWAre dr., mT. BeThel, PA 570-897-7681 WWW.kellysicecreAm.com Funny how sometimes your stomach rules your riding. We were recently out pre-riding this year’s Hot Dog Run to make sure there really weren’t any gravel/dirt/unpaved/uncomfortable roads involved (See Mike A. we do care). We had gotten through most of it and, riding the beautiful stretch of pavement along the Delaware River I spied Kelly’s. Now, I have to say that I really wasn’t ready for dessert, but timing dictated that we take a beef break from the dogs and have an intermezzo with a creamy treat.

Kelly’s is located one mile north of Portland on Route 611.

Here’s a little history lesson for you. This section of 611 runs high above the Delaware River and was opened in 1930 paralleling the old DL&W train tracks. It was named the ‘Million Dollar Highway’ and the ‘Lackawanna Trail’ and was once occupied by the fancy hotels frequented by the rich and famous seeking respite from the heat of the cities. Long gone, it is now a scenic ribbon for motorcyclists to enjoy.

This wide roadway was uncommon in its time, and drivers would test the speed of their vehicles for which the constables needed to borrow a local merchant’s fast car to issue speeding tickets. The constable’s cars have been ungraded since, so be warned.

Shira’s Summertime Ice Cream Ride

Near the old railroad depot, which brought these haughty-taughties to the country you’ll find a pedestrian bridge built on the piers of the former Columbia-Portland covered bridge, once the longest covered bridge in the US, which washed away during the floods of 1955. Look upriver and you’ll see another record-holding bridge, the Lackawanna Cutoff bridge, once the world’s longest poured concrete bridge. A couple of miles past this you can find the remains of the Cold Air Cave, now closed due to the threat of spread-

ing White Nose Fungus. This shouldn’t worry you unless you are a bat.

Back to ice cream. During our stop, I was hard-pressed to make a decision, as Kelly’s has a very long list of homemade ice cream.

On this day there were 32 to choose from, and I opted for the Peanut Butter & Jelly while Brian went for his litmus test of ice cream, cookies and cream.

Had we not just stuffed ourselves with several mongotopped hot dogs, I certainly could have been tempted by their super sundaes. How can you resist with offerings like Chocolate Covered Pretzel (chocolate cov-

SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 46 ered pretzel with hot fudge), Banana Rama (hot fudge over bananas and topped with peanuts) or Turtle (hot fudge, hot caramel and chopped pecans) just to name a few. In addition to their homemade hard ice cream, they offer soft-serve or frozen yogurt in cups, traditional cones or the wonderful waffle cone dipped in hot fudge and rolled in peanuts. Add to these delights their flurrys (ice cream and candy or fruit blended and topped with whipped cream and a cherry), milkshakes and other frozen goodies and you have a

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well-rounded summertime ice cream stop indeed. I am drooling just thinking about these – may have to take a break for an ice cream run.

If you find yourself at Kelly’s with more than an appetite for just ice cream, they have a very full food menu as well. Of course you can have a hot dog, but why be so mundane? How about a spicy black bean burger with salsa and guacamole, a steak or pannini sandwich of your choice, a variety of wraps and salads accompanied by sides of pierogies, potato pancakes, onion rings or fries to fill your belly. If all this food and sugar brings on the sleepies, wash it all down with an espresso drink and you’ll be ready to get back on the road.

You can visit Kelly’s Ice Cream Spring, Summer and Fall, as they have an indoor seating area as well as their outdoor covered picnic tables with ample parking. You can enjoy your summer victuals every day of the week from 11am to 10pm; 10:30pm on Friday and Saturday. In the Spring and Fall you’ll have to curtail your eating at 9:30pm.

Enjoy this month’s Ice Cream Run and we’ll see you on the road.

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

Page 47

Rip & Ride® • KELLY’S ICE CREAM • 4325 NORTH DELAWARE DR, MT. BETHEL, PA • 570-897-7681 • WWW.KELLYSICECREAM.COM RIDE STARTS AT THE RED APPLE REST, ROUTE 17, SOUTHFIELDS, NY ONE-WAY 85 MILES WITH EASY ACCESS TO I-80 AT END DOWNLOAD GPS ROUTE HERE: WWW.SENDSPACE.COM/FILE/G3N9M8

TAKE ROUTE 17 SOUTH RIGHT ONTO OLD MILL RD RIGHT ONTO ORANGE TPKE LEFT ONTO BRAMERTOWN RD LEFT ONTO BENJAMIN MEADOW RD RIGHT ONTO HWY 17A LEFT ONTO ROUTE 94 BEAR RIGHT ONTO HATHORN RD RIGHT ONTO CR 1A LEFT ONTO WATERBURY RD LEFT ONTO BLOOMS CORNERS RD BEAR RIGHT ONTO NEWPORT BRIDGE RD LEFT ONTO GLENWOOD RD/CR 565 LEFT ONTO SCENIC LAKES RD RIGHT ONTO HWY 23 LEFT ONTO BLAIR RD RIGHT ONTO BEAVER RUN RD RIGHT ONTO ICE PLANT RD CROSS ROUTE 206 RIGHT ONTO DECKER RD RIGHT ONTO PRICE RD LEFT ONTO AUGUSTA HILL RD RIGHT ONTO HALSEY RD

KEEP LEFT ONTO PARSON RD RIGHT ONTO JUNCTION RD RIGHT ONTO NEWTON SWARTSWOOD RD LEFT ONTO RIDGE RD BEAR RIGHT ONTO DOVE ISLAND RD LEFT ONTO DUCK POND RD RIGHT ONTO WEST END DR LEFT ONTO EAST SHORE DR BEAR RIGHT ONTO POTTERS RD RIGHT ONTO SADDLE BACK RD LEFT ONTO STILLWATER RD RIGHT ONTO MILLBROOK RD LEFT ONTO SAND POND RD LEFT ONTO SHANNON RD RIGHT ONTO BIRCH RIDGE RD RIGHT ONTO MILLBROOK RD LEFT ONTO OLD MINE RD TAKE ROAD UNDER I-80/RIVER RD LEFT – ACCESS ROAD ONTO I-80 WEST CROSS DELAWARE WATER GAP TAKE FIRST EXIT IN PA LEFT ONTO HWY 8026 CROSS OAK ST ONTO WARING ST LEFT ONTO HWY 611 NORTH CONTINUE APPROX. 4 MILES ON HWY 611 KELLY’S ICE CREAM ON LEFT

SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 48

UPCOM IN G EVENTS CAL ENDAR E V E RY M O N T H - W E AT H E R P E R M I T T I N G Every Sunday • Eastern Suffolk ABATE Breakfast Run. Crossroads Diner - Calverton NY. 10:30am. Eat and Ride After • 631-369-2221 First Sunday of the month • Layton Meet at the Layton Deli, corner of Dingmans/Bevans Rd, CR 560, Layton, NJ. Meet around 8am – breakfast available. Join others for a ride or head out on your own

What’s Happening www.waynecountymc.com • video: www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UWHKdajt1c 2-5 • Vermont Rolling Rally. For details visit www.rollingthruamerica.com 2-4 • Baltimore Grand Prix with Bob’s BMW as motorcycle sponsor. Get special motorcycle only access and trackside parking. Visit www.bobsbmw.com 4 • Dawn Patrol MC Labor Day Run. Signin: 9-Noon Bradley Gardens Firehouse, 24 Old York Rd, Bridgewater, NJ. $15/pp.

Every Tuesday • The Ear - Spring St, NYC. Come meet some fellow riders and do some benchracing or whatever. 8pm-ish

11 • Larz Anderson www.larzanderson.org

Third Tuesday • 7:30pm ABATE of the Garden State, North Jersey chapter. Black River Barn, 1178 Rt. 10 West, Randolph, NJ. 7:30pm. New members and all mc brands welcome. Help fight for rights as a motorcyclist in NJ! Alex Martinez 973-390-1918

13 • Bike Night at Liberty HD, 12 W. Milton Ave, Rahway, NJ. 6-9pm. Free hot dogs, music, and beer available. 732-381-2400

Every Wednesday • Bike Night at the Airport Pub with Free BBQ and Juke Box. CR 639, Sussex, NY • 973-702-1215 Every Wednesday thru Oct. 26: 5-9pm • Bike Night at Rusty Palmer, 105 Rusty’s Blvd, Honesdale, NY • 570-253-4507 • www.RustyPalmer.net First Wednesday • Bergen Harley-Davidson Hump-Day MusicFest. 6-9pm. BBQ and Free Live Music. Bergen Harley-Davidson/BMW Motorcycle, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenbmwmotorcycles.com Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-In, Rtes. 15/206, Augusta, NJ. Tire kicking, good food and friends • www.chatterboxdrivein.com Every Friday • 6-8pm Bike Night at O’Toole’s Harley-Davidson, 4 Sullivan St, Wurtsboro, NY. Free Hot Dogs • www.otooleshd.com • 845-888-2426 Every Saturday • Stop by the dealership at 9am for coffee and bagels. Ride departs at 10am. Return to the dealership for FREE food and music. Proper attire MUST be worn!

No shorts or sneakers. What are you waiting for, Saddle-Up! • Bergen Harley-Davidson/BMW Motorcycle, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenbmwmotorcycles.com

AUGUST 2011 27 • Bergen County Harley-Davidson Brain Injury Research Poker Run. Sign in 9:30-11am at BCHD. Great ride for a wonderful cause. 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • www.bergenbmwmotorcycles.com • 201-843-6930 27 • Pigs N Poker Run to benefit Shriners Hospital for Children. Sign in 10-11:30am at Riverton Hotel and Restaurant, 7758 Martins Creek/Belvidere Hwy, Bangor, PA. Ride: Noon to 2pm with picnic to follow. $25/pp ride/picnic; $10/just picnic; $10 Quoit Tournament @ 4pm • More info email: lineridersmc@hotmail.com 27 • Backroads’ Annual Hot Dog Run. Meet Sprinkle Shack, Rte. 15 South, Sparta, NJ 11am for a Day of Dogs. GPS Route available - email editor@backroadsusa.com

SEPTEMBER 2011 3-5 • Finger Lakes BMW Rally• Watkins Glen State Park. Camping, food, fun. Country Rode Motowerks sponsors track ride at International Racetrack Sat., Sept.3 @ noon • www.countryrode.com • 866-323-6530 4 • Thrills in the Hills Wayne County MC Annual Fall Adventure Tour. 120 miles of Very Bad Roads! $25/pre-entry; $35/day of event. Start: Lane’s Yamaha, 3500 Rte. 14, Watkins Glen, NY - 1.5 miles north of Watkins Glen Village. Sign in: 9-11am; First bike out 10am; Sweep in by 4pm. Camping available nearby. For more information visit

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15 • Bergen County Harley-Davidson/BMW presents Thursday Free Ride-In Movie. Free popcorn and movie treats. Movie starts 7pm-ish. For more info visit www. bergenbmwmotorcycles.com • 201-843-6930 • 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ 15-18 • Catskill Mountain Thunder, Blackthorne Resort, East Durham, NY. Wall of Death, bike show, demo rides, rodeo games, vendors, pig roast, fireworks and live music by 38 Special, Bullzeye, Razorbacks and Shovelhear and much more • 518-634-2541 • www.catskillmountainthunder.com 22-25 • Concours Owners Group Northeast Fall Rally, Lake George, NY. Come join other Concours riders and sport-touring enthusiasts for a romp in the Adirondacks. Rally fee includes Saturday dinner. Discount for COG members. For complete details visit the northeast event calendar at www.cog-online.org or contact Scott at 518-223-0544 23-25 • Morton’s BMW Campout. Join us for a fun weekend in the mountains, try out your GS skills on nearby Forest Service roads, and enjoy the camaraderie of the campfire.

No-frills event. More info at www.mortonsbmw.com or call 540-891-9844.

25 • Hudson Valley Harley Riders Charity Ride to benefit Olivia Taylor - Rain or Shine.

Sign in: 9-11am; The Dog House, 17 N . Middletown Rd, Nanuet, NY. $30/rider; $15 Pass./$25 AMA/Pre-Reg Discounts prior to 9/15. Incl. food, refreshments, music, door prizes, discount food coupon and more. Route sheet provided. More information found at www.hudsonvalleyharleyriders.com 26-Oct. 2 • Backroads Fall Fiesta Rally. Join us for our week-long rally through MA, NH, VT and NY. See the ad on page 60 or www.backroadsusa.com for full details.

OCTOBER 2011 Sept. 30-Oct. 2 • Colors in the Catskills. All brand motorcycle rally at Hunter Mountain, NY. Seminars, demo rides, skills class plus Hunter Mountain’s Oktoberfest with live music, vendors and food galore • www.HunterMtn.com 15 • Oktoberfest Open House at Morton’s BMW Motorcycles, Fredericksburg, VA - 9am - 4pm. Demo rides; door prizes; great food; music; vendors; author Melissa Holbrook Pierson will launch her new book, “The Man Who Would Stop at Nothing,” a look at long distance motorcycling; and much more! Info at www.mortonsbmw.com or call 540-8919844 16 • Blue Knights IX NJ Make-A-Wish Run. For details visit their website: www.bknjix.org

MAY 2012 17-20 • Backroads Spring Break XIV. We’ll be in Luray, Virginia for three days of fun, riding and hanging out. For more details see page 64. www.backroadsusa.com

FOR FREE? UNLESS YOU TELL US, WE CAN’T LIST IT

WE DON’T HAVE ESP! JUST GO TO OUR WEBSITE AND PRINT THE FORM www.backroadsusa.com/events.html AND SEND IT IN TO BACKROADS, POB 317, BRANCHVILLE, NJ 07826 • FAX 973-948-0823

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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

Page 49

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SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 50

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride Skillfully A column dedicated to your riding survival

Bonehead Bonehead. The meaning of this word could not be clearer.

We’re all guilty of being a bonehead every now and again, but it is the famed “bonehead move” that we want to talk about this month.

You know the “move” – that split second of horrible recognition that somebody has just done something….

Well, boneheadish! Let me throw out a few scenarios.

We were riding down a rather busy county road up here in northwestern New Jersey. Heading down a long hill with a large and lumbering garbage truck huffing it’s portly way up the hill towards us. As we got closer a pick-up truck, blocked from our view by the large garbage trolley, came whipping around the truck. Evidently he had somewhere to go and the slowness of the garbage truck was ruining his day. This was going to get sticky as we had a few cars behind us and we were hoping that they all were seeing what we were.

The pick-up driver knew he had just made a grave error of bonehead proportions and we got onto the far right side of the lane, beyond the white line and began to slow, trying to create some space and time between us and him. Thankfully the car drivers behind us did the same and mayhem was avoided.

We’re not immune to the bonehead maneuver.

This time we were in the Backroads Suburbinator and running up Route

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23, where it has two lanes heading in each direction.

I was not really paying attention as I was in the passenger seat and “Lead Foot Kamil” was behind the wheel. Unlike me, who has a bit more patience than she, Shira feels the need to keep on moving and if there is somebody in her way or slowing her down she will usually make a safe and quick pass.

Usually. Not today as I was about to find out.

I was busy looking something up on my iPhone when I felt us accelerating and making a pass.

Glancing up I saw we were going around another big black Chevy – brand new from the paper plate taped to its rear window.

Looking ahead I could see that the once two-lane road had suddenly become a one-laner and there was traffic coming our way…fast! Yikes.

Shira gunned the Suburban and we scooted in ahead of the other SUV; but I knew we had just boneheaded this guy and that he was pissed and not going to let it go. Why should he?

It was our fault; as after the pass we still had five cars lollygagging ahead of us anyway.

Finally at a stop light the other Chevy came whipping up to us, in the other lane mind you, and the window comes down.

I did not want a fight over this so I told Shira to put down her window and let me talk, I was simply going to apologize profusely for our rude driving

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

Page 51

blunder.

How surprised was I to see a petite blond woman that went ballistic on us.

She was very elegant in her chiding of us…

“You F&#!N idiot…. I got F&#!N children in the car. Don’t you ever F&#!N do that again… blah, blah, blah.” This gal went on and on like the Sergeant in Alice’s Restaurant, but with Tourette syndrome, and we just sat there and let her rant with our jaws dropped.

She then slammed it into gear, left a great deal of rubber, and proceeded to cut off the three cars ahead of us at the light.

Okay then - and we continued on, but we were well aware that we were the boneheads this day.

Maybe the real gist of this piece is not that there are always going to be moments of stupid boneheadism by some, but that you should be prepared for them and, just as important, not be the bonehead yourself.

That same day as we drove home we came upon another Sunday driver, a senior couple – the old man with the hat. Passing him would have been easy, except that we were approaching a rise and who knew what was on the other side? I could feel my spouse wanting me to get around this couple but, just to prove a point, I said I didn’t think so and for her to watch this.

A second or two later a young guy came motoring over the hill on a sportbike. If somebody, I in particular, did choose to pass that afternoon and that moment it would have been more than just bonehead – it would have been manslaughter.

I think I have made my point.

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SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS MOTORCYCLE TOUR GUIDE OF NOVA SCOTIA The one place that we get asked about the most often when folks are planning a tour is Nova Scotia. Tucked right up there above our northeast borders Nova Scotia is a superb destination and offers that great combination of scenery, culture and great roads. Not that we mind answering some questions now and again, but the Motorcycle Tour Guide of Nova Scotia is a free book that is full of all sorts of useful information for riders heading up this way. They even have an app for your iPhone.

To get yours simply call toll free at 1-866-250-7777 or e-mail them at mtrcycletourguid@accesswave.ca.

STOP & GO TUBELESS PUNCTURE PILOT Ideally all tubeless tires should be repaired from the inside/out. The new Stop & Go – Tubeless Puncture Pilot allows you to make an on-the-wheel repair to your tubeless tire and re-inflate it on the spot. This kit includes the award-winning Pocket Tire Plugger with its (15) mushroom shaped rubber plugs and the very compact Mini-Air Compressor. This all fits into a durable zippered canvas bag that measures only 7” x 3” x 3.5” and weighs only 1.7 lbs.

The mushroom plugs measure 5/16” diameter shaft x ¾” in length. They work on all tubeless tires while the Mini-Air Compressors are intended for use on motorcycles, scooters, mowers, small tractors, golf cars, and ATV’s.

Some other features include 12 Volt Compressor unit with built in Gauge & LED light, 66” Power cord that fits Battery Tender connectors, 12” alligator extension clips & 36” extension lighter adapter and 4” Tire valve hose with sports needle & inflatable adapter.

This kit combines unlimited inflation and on the wheel repairs that seal the tire on the inside preventing no air loss unlike other types of plugs. Suggested retail price of this new addition to the Stop & Go line is $ 64.95 plus Free Shipping when purchased at www.stopngo.com.

SUDCO CARBURETOR REBUILD KITS FOR KEIHIN AND MIKUNI Sudco International is probably the world’s leading source for OEM original manufacturer equipment Keihin and Mikuni Carburetors, their performance Racing Carburetors, Sudco Performance and Replacement Carburetor Kits, Tuning Component and Replacement Parts. Sudco is particularly well known for their Carburetor Rebuild Kits for both Keihin and Mikuni carbs used in any manufacturer’s application from Street and Off-Road to Personal Watercraft, from any era including classic bike applications in the 1960s right through to today’s current models. Sudco Rebuild Kits contain all new jetting components, clips, springs, needle valve, seals, Orings and gaskets, everything to make the carburetor perform like new again. Sudco also carries replacement carburetor body parts, float bowl components, manifolds, cables and filters.

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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

Page 53

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Best bar menu, lunch or dinner.

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Palatible Copius Victuals (Good Eatin’ Food) The secret of Western New Jersey and a Culinary Delight Tues. thru Sat. 11am-10pm Sunday: Breakfast 9am-Noon Lunch and Dinner served until 9pm

John, Christina, chef George and Eoanna welcome you and your friends.

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SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 54

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE

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MOTORCYCLE TRAILERS DAYTONA, BIKETOBERFEST, STURGIS AND BEYOND

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Let us help plan your next adventure

Gen Mar Mfg. Inc. • 110 1st Street • HC1 Box 35 • Arrey, NM 87930

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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

Page 55

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE

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Brands you Know and Trust From Long Island’s Premiere Motorcycle Outfitters…

15 East Deer Park Rd, Dix Hills, NY

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If you didn’t like cool stuff, you wouldn’t be reading this magazine.

Here’s something you’re going to love.

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SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 56

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE

ALL THAT GOOD STUFF

Come Ride the Dragon Deals Gap Store • Motel Bar and Grill

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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

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MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE

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SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 58

CLASS Act Continuing Education at a fast pace…

Rob Mitchell

When I got the call from Brian and Shira to see if I’d be interested in taking their places at CLASS at Virginia International Raceway, I jumped at the opportunity. I had been to CLASS several times in the past, but the last time had been about 10 years ago. Plus, VIR was the first roadracing circuit that I had ever been to back in the 1960s and I was anxious to see the new VIR and further my riding skills on its many corners and straights. Having been offered the spaces reserved for Brian and Shira, I decided to get the perspective of two types of riders who attend CLASS—the first-timer and the manytimer. My buddy Walter Payne would attend as a first-timer to CLASS—though he is a long-time rider—and I would attend as an alumna of previous CLASS programs. Further, we would each ride in a different group, so as to be able to offer different perspectives on our education.

CLASS is the brainchild of Reg Pridmore, three-time AMA Superbike champion and former BMW dealer. CLASS has been formally improving the skills of riders for 25 years, though Reg himself has been training riders for much longer. While CLASS courses are conducted on race tracks, the focus is not on developing racing skills, but on improving street riding skills—both in terms of bike control and mental skills. The track environment allows students to concentrate on learning without worry about oncoming traffic or the normal hazards of a public road.

From the moment we arrived at CLASS, all of the staff and instructors, including Reg and his wife Gigi were on hand to get us through registration,

800.388.8310 • www.kitzhofinn.com s we approached Danville, Virginia we crossed the Dan River for the first time. “Must be getting close,” I said.

“We just crossed the Dan River.” “The damn river?” Walter said. “No, the Dan River,” I said. “It runs through Danville, which is an old mill town.” We would cross the Dan two more times before reaching our destination at Virginia International Raceway. Each time we crossed it Walter would say “the damn river?” We both laughed…

By the time I finished high school and college, I had had enough education to last me for a while. I was eager to get on with applying that knowledge and reaping the rewards that I was told awaited me. Like most of us, I soon discovered that education is a continuing process throughout one’s life, whether it involved occupational skills or just about any area of our lives. And so it is—or should be—with motorcycle riding. Learning the basics of riding a motorcycle is just the beginning. Developing those skills to a higher level not only improves a rider’s confidence, but can be a life-saving experience as well. Like many riders who have enjoyed this passion for many years, I’ve had my share of surprises and near-misses from unexpected occurrences on the road, so I’m a believer that one should be constantly learning from those experiences as well as participating in training that will increase one’s level of riding skills.

A

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BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011 tech inspection and any last-minute details in order to maximize our time in the classroom and on the track. There were no prima donnas among this group.

Though they include both active and past roadracers, their role as instructors was what they were most proud of. Each made it clear that he or she was there to help us become better riders and was prepared to give us the individual attention that we desired. During our first classroom session, Reg introduced the instructors and explained what we could expect for the rest of the day.

Reg’s ability to inspire confidence in his students is a testament to his enthusiasm as well as his skill as a mentor to riders who want to ride safer—and faster. To have been doing this for as many years as he has and still make students feel they are among the first group to experience the secrets of how to be a better rider is part of what makes riders come back to CLASS again and again, as well as what make’s first-timers comfortable and relaxed.

Reg promised us a full day of learning and it was delivered. After allowing us to voluntarily divide ourselves into two groups—A and B—faster and slower (both relative terms), we got an overview of what awaited us. Once we completed the first session in the classroom, we would alternate 20 minute sessions on the track and in the classroom. Thus one group—A or B—was always on the track

Page 59 ing our turn following directly behind the instructors as they showed the perfect line at every point on the track. In subsequent sessions, instructors would ride behind us and observe how we were doing. If your line needed tidying up an instructor would pull alongside you, point to the rear of his or her bike to indicate for you to follow and then lead you until satisfied that you were “online.” If something you were doing required more explanation you were directed to follow the instructor into the pit lane for a more in-depth explanation. The result was more time on the track than most students had imagined. In fact, near the end of a very full—and hot—day, many students sat out the last session because they were exhausted from so much riding!

According to Reg, CLASS has reserved dates at VIR for next summer, but is waiting for the full schedule of CLASS activities to be finalized before determining if those dates are viable. The two days at VIR this year were fullybooked and were, in fact, the highest attendance of any CLASS dates on the calendar. If you’re interested in attending next year, send an e-mail to CLASS to let them know. info@classrides.com As we crossed the Dan River for the last time and pointed the GMC truck and bike trailer towards eastern Tennessee, we laughed one more time. However, the grins on our faces weren’t just from our sophomoric humor, but the fact that we were still both buzzing about our

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while the other was in the classroom. Each classroom session concentrated on the development and improvement of a different set of skills and each following track session, we got to incorporate those into our riding. At each classroom session, we would learn from the experience of a different instructor, while on the track, there were enough instructors riding along with us that they could observe areas where a student could benefit from some one-on-one counseling. In addition to the honing of skills on the track, we got more personalized coaching during braking exercises in the pit area.

First-timers were told—and returning riders reminded—that the key to going faster is to not try and go faster. It’s not about twisting the throttle harder or faster.

The ability to go faster happens when the rider learns to be smooth and to relax. Factors that contribute to smoothness include taking the proper line, smooth transitions between throttle application and brake application, body positioning, looking far enough ahead and being relaxed, particularly in the upper body. In the first few on-track sessions, we worked on these skills by tak-

SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

Page 60 experience at CLASS. One thing we had in common—as a first-timer and a returning student—was that we both felt a sense of exhilaration as well as greater confidence in our riding abilities. We both agreed that the focus on smoothness and relaxation had brought about unexpected rewards in confidence as well as speed.

I asked Walter (riding a BMW R 1150 GS Adventure) to sum up his experience at CLASS with particular emphasis on what he would say to someone who had never been to CLASS before. “I started riding more than 40 years ago and I’ve never done any kind of training program like CLASS. I really wondered, what can someone who has ridden as long as I have learn in a day? And also, because this is held at a racetrack, I was a little nervous because I didn’t know what to expect. I can honestly say the instructors made it easy and helped me build my confidence. What I learned early on was how much smoothness contributes to riding faster. We were taught that by going slower through the corners, you can actually go quicker and that’s what I experienced. The braking exercises helped me learn to be smoother by learning to transition between throttle and brake in one motion—roll off the throttle and squeeze on the front brake. Same with easing off the brake and rolling back on the throttle. I really got a lot out of following the instructors and having them follow me and letting me know how I was doing. Old habits are hard to break, but I think this is really going to help me

ride better on the street.” Check out the tips for first-timers here: www.classrides.com/_about/first_class.html As for me (riding a BMW F 800 R), this wasn’t just another day at CLASS like the last time. “Wow—it’s been a while since the last time I was here. Back then, most students rode their bikes to the track and now I see a lot of bikes on trailers and in race trucks. There are plenty of bikes on race stands and with tire warmers even! And of course, some of the stock bikes like the BMW S 1000 RR are practically race bikes. This should be interesting…

For the most part, the disparity in performance of bikes in the A group isn’t a problem—as long as students adhere to the rules laid out for passing and proper on-track etiquette. After one particular session, the instructors vigorously remind students that any unsafe moves will result in their being asked to leave and this seems to settle down the offenders. Though I’m new to this track, I feel comfortable after two sessions. I quickly identify a couple of corners that I know I’m not doing right and concentrate on those on each subsequent session. There are a

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We’ll spend our first night at the Publick House’s Country Motor Lodge nestled in an apple orchard near the main inn. Enjoy a great ride into New England on the way to our more northern stop…

Perched at the tip of a scenic, rockbound peninsula in East Boothbay, we’ll spend two days exploring It’s back to our old friends the ‘Fingers’ of Carina and Magnus and their Maine’s coast never-ending hospitality. It may with its historic only be one evening, but we’ll enjoy lighthouses, quaint villages and a great meal, roasting marshmallows around the campfire and tall tales all the lobsta rolls you can eat. on the front porch.

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This will be the 4th year that Colors in the Catskills will be held at Hunter Mountain, in conjunction with Oktoberfest. Hunter Inn is within walking distance, so we’ll enjoy a great day’s ride then park the bikes and join the festivities.

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

Page 61 couple of students who hold me up in the corners, but disappear down the straights. After several laps of this I ride through the pits and reenter the track, as we were instructed, now able to circulate without being held up. I decide that’s a good lesson, not

only for here, but on the street as well.

It’s easy to get angry at some of the things that car drivers do, but better to pull over then continue on your way, fully focused on the road. Instructor Ted Holman follows me for a while and has me follow him into the pits to explain that I’m not always on the balls of my feet on the footpegs and he’s worried I’ll whack a toe on the pavement. I explain that I’m trying, but that that’s a habit that’s hard for me to change. But, I try harder on that one the rest of the day.

At the end of the day, I sit out the last session too as it’s 93 degrees and I feel I may not focus as well as I should. I know that the difference in speed, smoothness, relaxation and confidence are higher for me than when I started this morning. One day can make a big difference in how you ride if you apply what you learn. Already, I’m thinking about next year and hoping that I’ll be here…”

Addendum…Virginia International Raceway calls itself “America’s Motorsport Resort.” It is located about 15 miles east of Danville, Virginia. It is home to both car and motorcycle roadracing and offers memberships in the VIR Club, whose members can participate in private member-only track days. On the nicely groomed grounds are The Lodge at VIR and the Oak

Tree Tavern, a fine-dining establishment in the recently-renovated original plantation house. www.virnow.com If you’d like to watch Reg take a couple of laps on VIR, visit this YouTube link: www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJiiSwabx8A In Reg’s words: “If you’ve been to CLASS you know that I always ask at the beginning of the day: “Who wants to be a faster rider?” Almost every one of you raises his or her hand stating, yes, “I would like to be faster”.

I was able to capture 3-4 laps at VIR, which shows managing the systems, planning, the line, entry and exit and most of all: throttle management - RPMs are your best friend. Gigi put it together and delivered it to YouTube.

Not everybody wants this end result but most of you want to climb the ladder. Imagine if you will running it down in slow motion. Two-up rides offer something similar, usually resulting in the passenger’s comment of “I see what you mean”. The picture is worth 1000 words. Trust your tires and take a peek.

SEPTEMBER 2011 • BACKROADS

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PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS NEW WOMEN’S HI-VIS VEST FROM HARLEY-DAVIDSON INCREASED VISIBILITY AND REFLECTIVITY IN ADVERSE CONDITIONS When conditions turn dark, wet or dreary, the new women’s yellow Hi-Vis from the Harley-Davidson® MotorClothes® line is almost like turning on a light around your torso. It’s made from water-resistant nylon with 3M® Scotchlite® Reflective Material panels and is designed to be worn over existing riding gear. Zippered front and adjustable sides proved a secure fit. Available in S – L sizes. Also offered in Hi-Vis Orange, the Hi-Vis Vest is available now at most Harley-Davidson dealerships for $70.

SIDI LAGUNA GORE-TEX BOOTS We love truth in advertising. Especially when it comes to motorcycle gear advertising.

Sidi Boots have released an all-new waterproof boot that it claims is 100% waterproof. Over the past few seasons we have found a few boots that made this claim, only to be disappointed sometime down the road – usually many miles from home in a torrential downpour.

We don’t think this will ever be the problem with the new Laguna Boot from SIDI. The boot is designed in a classic touring style with top grain leather construction and is equipped with a Gore-Tex waterproof-breathable membrane. Gore-Tex has over 9 billion pores per square inch, this allows for a 100% waterproof boot that comes with a lifetime guarantee.

The Laguna also has a breathable membrane that, even though the boot won’t let moisture in, will wick out moisture from your feet; keeping them not only warm but comfortable too.

The boot is very sleek with a nice European flare to it, but the beauty is more than skin deep as the boot has arch support, internal heel, ankle and toe protection and a strong padded nylon shin plate to protect that vulnerable tibia bone. Nothing worse than bashin’ your shin bone!

The Laguna’s zipper comes 2/3 the way up and a full length Gore-Tex backed gaiter is closed over by a wide Velcro-style closure insuring water tightness and a snug fit.

The boot has double stitching in all the high stress areas and you’ll find a reflective panel above the heel. On the bottom you will find a bonded non-slip Sidi touring sole.

One the road the boots broke in easily. We have had some boots in the past that have taken months to fit right and having the Laguna Boots get comfortable right away was a big plus.

The Laguna’s protection was spot on with the ankles and shins well covered.

Looking for a real riders testing ground for these boots we wore them for a week locally and then took them with us for a few weeks of riding in the European Alps, where conditions would range from very hot to very cold and dry to sopping wet.

We’re happy to say the Laguna Boots worked as promised with not even a hint of moisture after days of long riding in soaking clouds and rain.

Join us for our fourteenth Spring Break as we head south to Luray, Virginia. We’ll stay at the historic Mimslyn Inn which has 80 years in hospitality and home to some of the best riding in the area.

There are only a few suites still available at $199/night Please call 540-743-5105 and ask for the Backroads Group for special discount.

Additional lodging available at Best Western, Luray, VA 540-743-6511

ALL ROADS LEAD TO BACKROADS SPRING BREAK XIV

MAY 17 - 20, 2012 MIMSLYN INN, LURAY, VIRGINA CALL TODAY: MIMSLYN INN, LURAY, VIRGINIA • 540-743-5105 • www.MimslynInn.com

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

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The Laguna Boots retail for $300, but we think dry, comfortable and safe feet are worth the price.

They come in sizes 41 through 48 (Euro sizes) and you can find them at SIDI dealers. Log onto www.motonation.com for more information.

HORIZON ST BARS FROM HELIBARS HeliBars ® is proud to release the newest addition to its growing line of multi-axis adjustable handlebars - the Horizon ST. This new patent pending handlebars system was designed to provide the most comfortable riding position possible.

Imagine a handlebar that adjusts to fit your grip. Hands are at the correct height, reach is just right and wrists are at the perfect angle for true long distance riding comfort. The Horizon ST easily accomplishes this feat by virtue of its creative 3D adjustability.

The high performing Concours14 has been chosen as the first sport tourer to receive this amazing new handlebar system. To enable the C14 to accept a knurled lower mounting bar, HeliBars had to first design a handlebar clamp adapter which bolts to the top triple clamp replacing the stock left and right handlebars. The clamp adapter was styled to compliment the architecture of the top triple clamp while providing the correct mounting height for the new bar system.

Harry Eddy, chief designer and founder of HeliBars began prototype work on the Horizon concept bar over 12 years ago. The original prototypes were crude compared to our current offerings but proved the concept’s function. Styling was not a design goal during early development but safety was. How do you make a handlebar with multiple rotating joints safe for the riding public? What happens if a rider makes an adjustment and forgets to tighten one of the joints or fails to torque a pinch bolt properly? Fail-safe measures were evolved early on in the design of the Horizon bars, and rotational stops are utilized to limit how far each component can rotate when a joint’s pinch bolt is loose.

Content with the safety and function of the Horizon bar, Harry and his team worked on its styling. Making the bar flow from pivot to pivot was no easy task and has taken years to perfect to its current state.

The Horizon ST has a strong profile utilizing a one inch steel mounting bar and riser welded to a low carbon steel upper clamp. The upper two pivots are CNC machined out of extruded 6061-T6 aluminum. The handlebar tubes are drilled to mount the stock control housings in their precise positions and threaded bar ends accept the stock or aftermarket damper weights. Installation is straight forward and should take about 1.5 hours or less to complete. Everything needed to mount this system on 2008-2011 C14s is included, and it fits both ABS and non-ABS models. A torque wrench with 6mm and 8mm hex drive sockets is necessary to torque the pinch bolts and adapter mounting screws. All hardware is stainless steel.

Currently, HeliBars offers a 2-inch riser block for the C14s that also moves the handlebars back ¾”, and this makes a huge difference in comfort at a much lower price. For those who want more, the Horizon ST has to be seen and felt to be believed. It delivers an amazing level of comfort due to its height, set-back and wrist angle adjustability The Horizon ST as pictured has moved the rider’s hands up 3 inches and back 5 inches with a neutral wrist position. Back is straight, and your hands fall on the grips with a good bend in the arm. Comfort without compromise.

Horizon ST systems are on the way for the Honda ST1300 and Yamaha FJR1300. Similar systems for the Kawasaki Concours1000 and Honda ST1100 are under development. For more information call HeliBars at (800) 859-4642.

Colors in the

Catskills 4 At Hunter Mountain

sponsored by MAX BMW FREE All-Brand Motorcycle Rally

Sept. 30, Oct. 1-2, 2011 FREE all-brand gathering featuring off-road riding, sport riding and sport touring, along with the Hunter Mountain OktoberFest!

Come join us to see the finest show Mother Nature can offer, enjoy the unspoiled roads the weekend before Columbus Day, and also enjoy the company of your fellow riders of all types. Visit motorcycle vendors, attend interesting seminars and an opportunity to participate in off-road schools led by Team MAX. Hunter Mountain's Annual Oktoberfest features fantastic live entertainment surrounded by the autumn beauty of the Catskills. The modern celebration of the harvest features a farmers market, plenty of vendors, free crafts, pumpkin painting for the kids, and much more. Free Admission!

Entertainment includes the Alex Meixner Band, Radlpass Trio from Austria, Germania Almrausch Schuhplattler Verein, Die Lustigen Almdudler, Captain Squeeze and the Zydeco Moshers, Doug Marcus and Bill’s Toupee Band On-site lodging is available at the Kaatskill Mountain Club or Liftside Village Condominiums and camping is also on-site. Call 800-486-8376 for details. Lodging reservations at 518263-5580.

www.Huntermtn.com

Lodging d On-Site te n u o c able is D ping Avail m a C e it -S and On

BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2011

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