ON THE MARK MARK BYERS
the WhIsPerInG stones
oFthe Blue rIDGe
They buried you at home. In the days before big cemeteries festooned with engraved markers and fountains, you were laid to rest in a corner of the farm. The small burial plots were usually surrounded by a simple rail fence or an unmortared stone wall to keep the cows out. In recent times, a family plot might be demarcated by a low chain-link fence. Engraved headstones were expensive and engravers hard to find, so frequently the stones were unadorned chips of native rock or simply wooden crosses, the latter of which would be quickly lost to decay and the former would have no information about the persons in repose.
People liked to be buried on high points, facing East, so the family plots were frequently on a hill overlooking the farm and the valley below. The people doing hardscrabble farming in the Blue Ridge Mountains were no exception, which is why the Blue Ridge Parkway is peppered with little graveyards from just before mile 2 all the way past mile 298. There may be more, but the Park Service isn’t through counting and heaven knows how many solitary graves or small plots have been lost to the ravages of time. What we do know is that in 2015, a team from the NPS mapped the locations of 51
moment, because the next four stones whispered a story that broke my heart. It started in 1921.
In the early part of the 20th century, most births of country folk took place in the home. My own father was born in 1924 in a house in West Virginia. On a farm high up on 1920’s Blue Ridge dirt roads, there certainly wasn’t a hospital close by and probably not a doctor who could respond with any alacrity (my grandfather died in ‘25 when a train blocked his path to help). Jonas and Mellawalka Wilson might have been lucky to have the services of a midwife. Prenatal care might have been Jonas picking up a few more household chores, but probably not. Nutrition was what they could afford or grow and even the idea of an ultrasound was a half century away. Mellawalka wouldn’t have known the condition or sex of her un-
cemeteries and recorded the graves in 42 of them (541 graves). Those sepulchers hold the remains of everyone from Revolutionary War veterans to an NYC firefighter lost September 11th.
Most people riding the Blue Ridge take little notice of the plots, as they tend to blend into the bucolic scenery. Stopping at cemeteries isn’t something most people do, but there are some who study history that way - they’re called “taphophiles.” I do not count myself as one: I usually confine my cemetery visits to the graves of historic notables. However, I recently had the occasion to go a very short distance over a long period on a beautiful day on the Parkway, so I stopped around mile 136 to photograph some cows and a convenient parking place was by the Shaver Cemetery. The Shaver plot is one of the larger ones, surrounded by a low block wall whose top is decorated with mortared-in, native stones of mostly quartz. It had both faded and modern stones, but none of them told me a compelling story.
That changed around mile 142, when I stopped at a little six-stone cemetery roughly outlined by a low, decaying rail fence. For some reason, this plot beckoned me and, having only six headstones to peruse, I stopped. A small wooden signed proclaimed the little gravel pulloff as a “private road.” The plot is named for the Wilson family, whose patriarch, Jonas, was born in 1887 and lived to age 65. Jonas’ stone by itself did not tell a compelling story, but that began to change when I went to the next. Mrs. Wilson, whose name was engraved “Mellawalka,” was born in ’87 too. I was bemused by the unusual name for a woman, but the humor only lasted a
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023 Page 5
born offspring…or how many there might be.
7 August 1921 must have been a grievous day for the Wilsons, because the mason who engraved the two headstones didn’t even know the sex of the stillborn twins, so “Infant Child” was all he could muster, along with the date. I can only imagine the anguish of the 34-year-old expectant parents - older than most in the mountains. I went back and looked at Mellawalka’s stone again, prepared to see the same date since women frequently died in childbirth, especially difficult ones, but she lived to 63.
As if that wasn’t sad enough, there were two more stones with a story to whisper, that of another set of twins who also died at birth on 7 March 1926. At least the mason could inscribe the names of Everett and Hettie to them. Jonas and Mellawalka would have been the ripe old age of 39 and again, she dodged the bullet of dying in the delivery. There were no other stones, so I can only assume that the two sets of stillborn twins were all the Wilsons were able to muster. What a solitary life it must have been for them over the next twentyodd years.
I left the Wilsons to their rest, wishing a Scout would come along and make restoration of their failing fence an Eagle Project (it was replaced over 9 years ago). I don’t know if all the cemeteries of the Blue Ridge Parkway have histories as sad and compelling as the one of the Wilsons at mile 142. Knowing the Ridge and the challenges of life there, I suspect many of them do, but not being a taphophile, I don’t intend to find out.
I will, however, ride the Parkway with a newfound awareness of the whispering stones and the stories they have to tell. ,
Page 6 BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023
Hi Brian,
Great safety article. One of the reasons they don’t see us and/or can’t see us is the single headlight (and narrowness). A car has two that are spaced apart and our brains use that distance to judge speed.
An animal can’t see us because the bike is not ‘galloping’.
Some little tricks I do that have become instinct is when approaching a car turning left I wiggle the bike. Just a little wag to catch their attention.
The other is I try to install lights as far outboard as possible to give a driver some semblance of speed. Sometime I leave the highbeam on during the day, if I remember.
My Pan America stock light setup is pretty good with two separated headlights (although narrow), and outboard turn signals that stay on, I like it.
Practice panic braking is great advice. I don’t know many that do it. And if they do they never do it to the limit, usually half. Anyone close to me, or that trusts me, I insist on practice braking, by first showing them, half, 3/4, then full on roadrace braking. They are wowed at what a bike can do.
Practicing on a dirtbike going relatively slow is a good tool too. I’ve trained the ins and outs of braking to many kids on dirtibikes.
I’ve roadraced and to get proficient at ‘panic’ braking it takes a while, and some cahonees. The best can get the tire to hookup without it locking up, which varies every turn, road, tire, etc…
When I started roadracing I realized that braking was a big part of winning. I was in college for engineering at the time, and asked one of my professors to help me understand the physics of it. He was into it.
We determined that a bike will never flip over at max brake. It will lock up the wheel first. (center of gravity vs traction component). And the rear does very little to nothing at max braking. When the front wheel locks up, it losses its centrifugal force and because of the steering head angle and the force of the lockup it ‘falls over’. BUT, a very big BUT, if you relax the brake it comes back instantly. I practiced this at tracks and got good enough to compete (at least at braking) with the Pros. The trick is get to lockup, but then
release only a little so you don’t blow the corner. Hard to do, but amazing to do and watch. I have pictures/videos of me coming into hard braking zones with my rear tire in the air a little. I got really good at it.
Now that is not the best way to win a race. I learned later from Pros that while I may have outbraked them (and I thought I was cool!), they carried more corner speed. As an uniformed young man, I always thought it was because they just had better factory bikes, and of course they were Pros and I wasn’t (but I wanted to be). The best way is trail braking the rear a little to settle/squat the bike, and why they went around the corner better than me, even though I ‘outbraked’ them.
See ya.
Chris Reiner
Hi Backroads,Didn’t miss an issue. Just wanted to be sure I didn’t miss any in the future. I can’t tell you how enjoyable and helpful Backroads has been in planning trips. And your Inside Scoop is an absolute favorite of mine. You wouldn’t believe how many shops I’ve visited thanks to those articles.
Stay Well
Frank J Matullo
Hey Backroads
Out-Effing-Standing, I just returned from Bergen HD with my copy of Backroads & read your article first. Nearing my 8th decade it’s impossible to consider life absent motos & the personalities thereof. Fifty years ago everyone rode, at least for a while. Evel, Dylan, my GOAT Cal Rayborn & Easy Rider all were huge cultural touchstones. To this day I maintain many friendships with motorcycle folks. Your scribe excluded they’re almost universally superb. But for my money it’s all about the folks. Apropos to the nth is Byers’ Goomba Red. In fact, and I watched ‘til the end, your bit trumps even the Metropolitans 7/5 victory tonight!
Ciao, Phil Burre
Continued on next page
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023 Page 7 BACKLASH Letters to the Editor
Vermont Closes ‘Basket Case’ Registration Loophole
Sorry Basket Case lovers, but Vermont has closed a registration loophole allowing vehicles with difficult titles to be legally registered in that state, marking the end of an era for home-build aficionados. If you meet the above descriptor then you’re probably already acquainted with a thing that was previously and widely referred to as “the Vermont loophole,” making it a popular state for folks with barn finds and/or other difficult vintage vehicle title situations, where they could legally register their new purchases, “until the past couple of weeks” according to RideApart.com.
For decades prior it was a tailor-made solution for project bike and car enthusiasts from much of the country -- exact rules vary by state -- but unfortunately the laxity of rules allowed thieves an equally easy route to obtain titles for stolen vehicles or fraudulent ownership documents “which was obviously and unsurprisingly a problem.”
Out-of-state residents will now have additional steps to go through to get a vehicle titled in Vermont, and now requires the DMV in your home state to verify that you’re not required to register the vehicle in question there.
Backlash
Hey Backroads,
Continued from previous page
Just read Free Wheelin, when I bought my KLR in 2009 I posted a picture on the message boards, I got ripped apart on how clean my bike was, even comments on the tires having Armor All on them, that freaked a lot of guys out. Two weeks prior I was up to the seat in a water crossing and in clay type mud, I’m an ex -80’s moto-cross racer. Me personally I keep my stuff, shop, bikes cars like NASCAR, super clean. How do you work on a dirty bike? Do you really want dirt to end up in the carburetor or in the motor.
I wished them well and called them “dirt merchants”. AeroStich sells a bottle of mud to splash on your bike if you feel the need.
Never underestimate a rider’s skills, that has a clean bike!
Harvey Mushman
Dear Brian
Reading the Backroads Report and I could not agree more with your column called “Soil,” Brian. I believe the Backroads family is fertile ground in which riders can grow by emulating the longstanding attendees of your rallies and rides.
Look around the demographic and you will see successful, safe riders with a cumulative experience base of millions of miles. They are wearing proper riding gear and behaving with restraint and caution appropriate for the situations they encounter. The skills of most of the regular Backroads troops are better, on average, than most riders out there.
Then, there is the willingness to embrace, guide, and - if necessary - protect their riding companions. The Backroads family operates in a “No person left behind” way and several times people have stepped up to rescue those who encountered misfortune, sometimes at great inconvenience. The “BERT” (Backroads Emergency Recovery Team) springs into action when needed, which is fortunately not that often and the situations not that serious, but it is good to know the tribe has your back.
It really is tribal knowledge that can make you not only a better rider, but a better human! I encourage everyone who is in need of solid, skilled role models to consider a Backroads event. It is so fun that you might not realize how much you are learning.
Mark Byers
Page 8 BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023
INDUSTRY INFOBITES News from the Inside
“Will moreold bikesend up scrapped because people who would previously have been interested in trying to save them decide that it’s not worth all the hoop-jumping?,” suggests RideApart, “It’s truly the end of an era for project bike fans.”
BMW Motorrad ConnectedRide Smartglasses
What was once science fiction is now a reality
What was still considered science fiction a few years ago is now becoming reality with the BMW Motorrad ConnectedRide Smartglasses. The innovative motorcycle goggles provide the heads-up display technology already familiar from the automotive sector and project all relevant data, such as navigation, speed or gear, directly into the rider’s field of vision in real time, thus enabling particularly anticipatory and thus safer motorcycle riding.
The BMW Motorrad ConnectedRide Smartglasses can be easily connected to your smartphone via Bluetooth and app. The projection can be positioned, and the settings can be selected before the ride or during, via the multicontroller on the motorcycle handlebars.
In addition to the individual user interface and an increase in riding safety, the smart glasses also offer a high level of comfort. The design of the smart glasses and the display has been adapted to meet the special needs of motorcyclists. The BMW Motorrad ConnectedRide Smartglasses can be adapted to fit numerous helmets and face shapes. This makes the smart glasses comfortable to wear even on long day trips. The lithium-ion battery enables up to 10 hours of operation.
BMW Motorrad supplies two sets of certified UVA/ UVB lenses with the frame. One set of lenses is 85% transparent and can be used for helmets with integrated sun visors. The other set has tinted lenses, turning the smart glasses into a pair of sunglasses.
For riders who wear prescription glasses, the lenses can be ground and adjusted to the required visual acuity (up to a max of four diopters) by an optician using an RX adapter. For those who wear contact lenses, the Smartglasses can be used normally. The set also includes a case and a USB charging cable.
Cardo Systems Can Now Connect with Others
Cardo systems has introduced a new software update to its cross-industry Bluetooth connectivity. With this latest software release, connecting with a non-Cardo Bluetooth unit is now as seamless and fluid as connecting via Bluetooth to another Cardo communicator. The power to bridge the gap between communicator brands via Bluetooth connectivity is yet another game-changing innovation from Cardo as it continues to pursue industry-wide Bluetooth standardization and bring more riders together.
Inspired by the launch of Open Bluetooth Intercom (OBi), Cardo conducted an independent International study that proved consumers demanded a simple and intuitive process to communicate with their fellow riders who didn’t have the same brand of communicator.
Despite Cardo Systems already offering class-leading cross-brand connectivity via the OBi standard, and championing its leading Mesh technology, the developers at Cardo took the challenge of including even more brands head-on. Listening to customer feedback we were able to deliver a software update that brings non participating brands into the same connectivity universe.
Cardo users can simply download the latest software version from their Cardo Connect app, Over-The-Air and with no need for a cable, to activate the functionality. There is no need to press any specific button combination to pair or connect. As new versions and upgrades are made available, a pop-up in the Cardo Connect App will appear automatically.
Spanish Stop Sign Cameras?
We can all agree that traffic rules are there for a reason, and with today’s technology there’s always someone, or something, watching. For example, the Directorate-General for Traffic (DGT) in Spain has installed and begun testing new cameras that can detect whether or not a vehicle has come to a complete stop at a stop sign.
Cameras on the roadway are nothing new, while red light cameras and speed cameras have been around for decades. Stop sign cameras, on the other hand, area a fairly new thing, and in Spain they are not designed to immediately detect whenever a driver, or motorcycle rider, doesn’t come to a complete stop and may result in a hefty fine of 200 Euros ($220 USD).
“By ‘complete stop’ the DGT means a COMPLETE STOP, not a rolling stop,” according to RideApart.com, explaining that ‘for car drivers this means stopping completely before proceeding. For motorcyclists, it’s suggested to put a foot down to demonstrate for the cameras that you have indeed come to a complete stop.”
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023 Page 9
Barnstormer BBQ presents GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN
MaMa’s Boy BurGers
6067 Main St, tannerSville, nY 12485
MaMaSboYburgerS coM • 518-589-6667 open DailY @ 11:30aM
Brian had put together a stellar ride heading into the Catskills, so we needed a spot to satisfy our hunger along the way. Sitting where we figured we’d get hungry was the village of Tannersville, and right on the corner with convenient parking was Mama’s Boy Burgers.
Back in 2016, Michael Koegel, originator of Mama’s Boy Market and Café in Phoenicia, had decided to find a spot for a new challenge. That spot was the former Smiley’s Ice Cream, which had served the community with its ice cream wants for years. Koegel gave it a coat of yellow and tur-
tasty places to take your bike
quoise paint, added some outdoor picnic tables with umbrellas and had a giant ice cream cone, fabricated by the artists who made the blue whale at the American Museum of Natural History, mounted on the roof. Roadside attraction in place, he worked with NYC chef Merrill Moore to develop an equally creative menu featuring six varieties of burgers, vegetarian options, sides and, of course, ice cream, since Tannersville no longer had an ice cream shop. He brought in Jane’s ice cream in addition to their very delicious frozen custard. We pulled into the ample lot and walked over to the ordering window. Taking a look at the menu, we were hard-pressed to make a decision as all the offerings sounded delicious. With a name like Mama’s Boy Burgers you would guess that their signature dishes would be burgers, and that guess would be correct. In fact, Mama’s Boy has won Best Burger Shack in the Hudson Valley. Their special blend of grass-fed, grain-finished, hormone-free Black Angus beef is locally sourced from JFF Farms just six miles away and grilled so that each side of the double patty burger is crispy and flavorful. If that doesn’t get your mouth watering, how about some of these optionsBig Daddy, with bleu cheese, bacon, caramelized onions and House Sauce; El Nino, topped with Jack cheese, pico de gallo, guacamole, jalapeno bacon and chipotle mayo - Aye Caramba! My eye was caught by the Jersey Boy (what a surprise), a badda-bing burger with smoked mozzarella, Italian peppers and basil mayo. Fuggetaboutit.
Page 10 BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023
Got a hankerin’ for something fowl? Their Happy Camper, an organic turkey burger with crispy kale, Swiss cheese, tomato and herb mayo should have you crowing. Brian chickened-out with the Farm Boy, a sandwich of fried chicken breast, lettuce, tomato, pickle and Ranch dressing.
Of course they have the vegans covered with a superb falafel burger with gouda, tomato, cucumber and harissa yogurt or the Fun Guy - a truffled portobello topped with sauteed mushrooms, Swiss cheese, crispy onions and truffle mayo - ooh, la, la! There are a few salads on the menu as well.
These are all served with a side of hand-cut, crispy French fries, tater tots or cole slaw. Should you feel a bit more peckish, you can upgrade to onion rings or cheese curds.
If you are more of an engineer, you may construct your own sandwich. Start with a base of meat, impossible burger, falafel or truffled portobello and build it up with cheese, some delicious extras and a selection of sauces to make it your own.
Just want something simple? How about a hot dogHoffman’s all beef, of course - or perhaps a White Hot or chili dog.
Don’t forget to save room for dessert! Maybe you’ll want a milk shake to accompany your meal. With over 40 delicious and unique shake flavors make with their creamy custard, that would be a wise decision. You can choose from German Chocolate Cake, Key Lime, Creamsicle and so many more.
Mama’s Boy is happy to serve Jane’s Ice Cream, a Kingston, NY, original developed in 1985, in a cup, cone or sundae.
So sit, relax, take in the country and savor your super fresh, perfectly cooked meal with a finish of ice cream while enjoying a day or longer ride through the scenic Catskills. ,
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023 Page 11
Warren County NJ Tourism presents BIG CITY GETAWAY
olD rhIneBeck aeroDroMe
9 norton roaD, rhinebeck, new York 12572 845-752-3200 • www olDrhinebeck org
Those magnificent men in their flying machines, they go uppity up up,
they go down downdidi down down.
They enchant all the ladies and steal all the scenes!
In 1965 there was a comedy released to worldwide acclaim...
Those Magnificent Men in Their Flying Machines. Some of you might remember this movie. It was alight comedy mixing anostalgic look at what is considered to be turn-of-the-century simplicity with barelyahaphazard nod tothebeginnings offlight.
Yet the 1910-era airplanes used in this movie were replicas built using the authentic materials of the originals but with slightly more powerful engines. About twenty planes were built at a cost of about five thousand pounds sterling each… about $50,000 each in today’s American dollars.
The start of aviation was a worldwide phenomenon as, once Gustav White-
daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind
head and the Wright Brothers conquered gravity, everybody wanted in on the act.
Up along the Hudson River Valley, just north of the town of Rhinebeck, is a place that still celebrates this amazing early aircraft and the men and women who dare to fly them...
Welcome to the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome.
The story of this great place began when a young boy named Cole Palen grew up next to a great 1930s Hudson Valley airport dreaming that he would own and fly the machines he saw overhead and spent the rest of his life bringing the vision alive.
Sixty-five years ago, in 1958, he opened the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome with a handful of airplanes and a dream. He built it into a world-renowned destination as America’s first flying museum of antique aircraft. In 1993 the Rhinebeck Aerodrome Museum was established as a 501 (c) (3) non-profit organization to continue Cole’s legacy; and today the dream and the legend created by these aircraft and the people that flew them live on.
Page 12 BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023
Cole Palen was partially inspired by his visit to the Shuttleworth Collection, in Great Britain – a great Aviation Museum of international note.
We took a long-overdue ride up the Hudson Valley and spent a few hours meandering around the museum, and the various hangars – that were chockfull of aviation history.
The place has been called a living museum – and in truth it is.
The many hangars and the museum itself house so many marvelous aircraft from the very beginning of manned flight what is called The Pioneer Era and running into the first time man took warfare to the air in World War One and then what is now considered the Golden Age of Aviation. Walking into the museum certainly is like stepping back in time.
you plan it right you can move right across the road to the actual Aerodrome itself as they offer Air Shows every Saturday and Sunday between June 17Oct 15.
Gates open at 10 AM, Pre-Show Activity at 2:00 PM, they fly at 2:30 PM. For you more daring readers Open Cockpit Bi-Plane Rides are available before and after the Air Shows, starting at 10 AM and running to twilight.
The Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome is one of the most special and alive places of aviation history in the United States.
We rarely miss a great Air & Space Museum and we wonder what took us so long to land here.
See ya on the road…or in the clouds! ,
Sure there are a lot of planes, but many flyers are immortalized here too.
Eugen Ballard, the first black fighter pilot; Wiley Post who was the first flyer to fly around the globe; Bessie Coleman, first female black American to hold an international pilots license, and Harriet Quimby, the first lady of flight. Of course, more famous names like Lindberg and Earhart and Baron Manfred von Richthofen will be found here as well as several motorcycles from the era too.
I was taken by the display of engines and techniques that perfect flight back when it was still a novelty.
Other great planes were one display… a reproduction of a Lockheed 10E Electra; the same craft that Amelia Earhart and Fred Noonan flew before they joined the cast of LOST.
There was a Sopwith F.1 Camel. We loved this one for obvious reasons, but it was a favorite of Snoopy as well.
The museum is packed with incredible machines from the past and the other hangars hide even more treasure… we spotted a superb 1915 Fokker Eindecker, the plane that did the very first night-time mail flight, and a Siemens-Schukert from 1918.
One of the things that truly enthralled us were the propellers on these planes… it seemed like the makers of these were touched by the hand of God – truly amazing to see and touch.
They have some wonderful planes that regularly take to the air, one being a recreation of N-X-211… the Spirit of St. Louis. To see that take off must be special indeed.
When you go to the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome make time for your visit. You will want to drink it all in, and if
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023 Page 13
Wytheville VA Tourism presents WE’RE OUTTA HERE
DIaMonD MIlls hotel
25 S partition St, SaugertieS, nY 12477
845-247-0700 • www DiaMonDMillShotel coM
It seems it had been way too long that we had done some serious Catskill riding. Yes, we did Sullivan County, but just north of that great part of New York lies the heart of the ancient Catskill Mountains; and they are ancient. But are they really mountains?
How were the Catskill Mountains formed? Stretching all the way to the Appalachian Mountains and rising from the Hudson Valley, the Catskill Mountains are not geologically considered mountains at all –they are actually a dissected plateau.
Indeed, the Catskills began existence as a river delta350 million years ago. Streams flowing off the thenmighty Acadian Mountains deposited sediment where the river met a sea (now theAllegheny Plateau).
Native Americans had been in this area since time began and the European settlers quickly began to carve a life from the natural and rugged terrain.
In 1824 a group of businessmen opened the Catskill Mountain House, America’s first grand resort hotel, in a spectacular but logistically challenging location at the top of a ledge about 1,500 feet above the Hudson Valley hamlet of Palenville, N.Y. Not long after, the promising young British-born painter Thomas Cole painted “The Falls of the Kaaterskill,” beginning an entirely new style of art.
In 1819, Washington Irving published the durable Catskills fairy tale “Rip Van Winkle” after having glimpsed the mountains in outline from a sloop traveling up the Hudson.
Nowadays some of the roads that are sprinkled throughout these mountains are a wonderful combination of open and wide and tight and demanding.
a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads
For us our day’s sojourn through the Catskills would head from New Jersey, cut through Pennsylvania, and then into New York… eventually finishing at a very sweet overnight – arguably one of the finest hotels in Hudson River Valley… welcome to the Diamond Mills Hotel.
In 1888 the Cantine Paper Mill was built on this site, utilizing the water power of the Esopus Creek, and creating some magnificent waterfalls as well. The place was operating a mill until 1966. In 1978 a horrific fire razed the building and for years the lot sat empty until it was purchased by Thomas Struzzieri, who set about designing and building what is now one of the finest hotels in the northeast. We think they certainly have a winner here in Saugerties.
The Diamond Mills Hotel has 30 luxuriously well-appointed guest rooms, each with a furnished balcony overlooking the Esopus Creek and Waterfall. Each room is decorated with European-inspired furnishings and a natural color palette. The magnificence of the tiled bathrooms with radiant heat floors and oversized walk-in showers, balanced with hand-crafted vanities and chrome and white porcelain fixtures, are designed for your comfort and will leave you feeling pampered.
Your guest room choice of King, Double Queen, or King Suite, will work for solo riders and couples as well.
Page 14 BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023
The view from the balcony was amazing and sitting there near dusk with the golden light playing off the falling water was a Mary Poppins moment – practically perfect in every way!
Along with the hotel, and the incredible view, there is The BLACKBARN, their on-site restaurant.
Maybe at one time, we might have said the restaurant was a bit pricey, but everything is pricey these days… what the BLACKBARN is ….is phenomenal.
With Executive Chef Marcos Castro at the helm, BLACKBARN Hudson Valley features a new menu boasting favorites from the original with a distinct Hudson Valley flair and locally sourced farm-to-table ingredients. They serve lunch, brunch, dinner, and a tavern menu.
The offerings were unique and everything we chose was on the far side of scrumptious.
The interior of the BLACKBARN is spacious, and the fireplace inviting.
The tin-roofed bar had that “let’s hang here” feel – but it was a stunning evening so out on the deck, right above the falls, was the choice for us.
I cannot speak for the rest of the menu (But I have faith in Chef Castro) so
we’ll tell you that the Flat Bread Pizza with figs and arugula sprinkled with cheese was heavenly and our mains of Butternut Squash Ravioli with Swiss chard, toasted pumpkin seeds, bacon lardon with a sage beurre monté, and Eight-Hour BBQ Ribs were spot on. But, you must order the Maple Brussels Sprouts…simply deeelicious. All of these dishes were served in a superior fashion by wait staff that was fun and attentive.
After dinner, we took a stroll around town and made a quick stop at Alley Way Ice Cream – one of Shira’s Inside Scoop discoveries. Returning back to the Diamond Mills, the night finished with a glass of wine on the patio listening to the waters roll off into the chasm below and the sound of Mallard Ducks doing what ducks do.
It is hard to think of a nicer place to stay anywhere else in the Catskills.
Morning (very early as it had just become summer) saw brilliant sunlight pouring through the east-facing glass doors. A cup of in-room coffee (really good in-room coffee, by the way) and we were on the bikes and onto the roads before the rest of Saugerties woke up.
We highly recommend the Diamond Mills Hotel – it is a bit fancy, but not pretentious – they like riders and we think our riders will like them back. If you head to Saugerties enjoy and we will see you on the road! ,
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023 Page 15
Morton’s BMW Motorcycles presents
Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERIOUS AMERICA
the lost squaDron – FlIGht 19 • naval aIr statIon Fort lauDerDale MuseuM 4000 wperiMeter rD., Fort lauDerDale, Fl 33315
Along the outer edge of the Fort Lauderdale International Airport, there is a small building that is so out of place, but oozes Floridian Naval history.
Found along the perimeter road that encircles the busy airport with large and modern commercial jets continually coming and going, it seems a relic from a bygone era, and it is.
Naval Air Station Fort Lauderdale was built on the site of Merle Fogg Field in 1942 as part of the national defense program; serving as one among 257 air stations during World War II, and as one of a few specialty schools for training on the TBM/TBF Avenger aircraft. Hundreds of Naval airmen came through this base, including a young George Bush.
Today it is the only remaining structure left on the naval base property—the sole reminder of a naval complex of more than 200 buildings.
This building is now the Naval Air Station Fort Lauderdale Museum and highlights the deep aviation history that this region became known.
In addition to showcasing the base’s history and keeping alive the story of Flight 19, the Naval Air Station Museum also collects and preserves personal stories and other documents from World War II Veterans, to build a lasting legacy of preserving history for generations to come. This History Project collects unpublished written memoirs of personal wartime experiences. We welcome diaries, collections of letters, and photographs that tell the veteran’s story.
But, for me, it was what occurred at 2:10 p.m. on December 5th, 1945, that brought me here.
Today flights leave the airport to travel to all points on the globe; this late autumn day, five Navy pilots and their aircraft took off and seemingly vectored directly into Mysterious America.
It began as nothing more than a routine training flight as the five TBM Avenger torpedo bombers took off from a Naval Air Station in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. The planes—collectively known as “Flight 19”—were scheduled to tackle a three-hour exercise known as
“Navigation Problem Number One.” Their triangular flight plan called for them to head east from the Florida coast and conduct bombing runs at a place called Hens and Chickens Shoals. They would then turn north and proceed over Grand Bahama Island before changing course a third time and flying southwest back to base. Save for one plane that only carried two men, each of the Avengers was crewed by three Navy men or Marines,
Page 16 BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023
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most of whom had logged around 300 hours in the air. The flight’s leader was Lieutenant Charles C. Taylor, an experienced pilot, and veteran of several combat missions in World War II’s Pacific Theater.
These were experienced pilots.
At first, Flight 19’s hop proceeded just as smoothly as the previous 18 that day. Taylor and his pilots buzzed over Hens and Chickens Shoals around 2:30 p.m. and dropped their practice bombs without incident. But shortly after the patrol turned north for the second leg of its journey, something very strange happened.
A staticky transmission came across the radio…
“I don’t know where we are,” one of the pilots said over the radio. “We must have got lost after that last turn.”
Lieutenant Robert F. Cox, another Navy flight instructor who was flying near the Florida coast, was the first to overhear the patrol’s radio communications. He immediately informed the Air Station of the situation and then
contacted the Avengers to ask if they needed assistance. “Both my compasses are out and I’m trying to find Ft. Lauderdale, Florida,” Taylor said, his voice sounding anxious. “I’m over land, but it’s broken. I’m sure I’m in the Keys, but I don’t know how far down.”
Taylor’s claim didn’t seem to make sense. He’d made his scheduled pass over Hens and Chicken Shoals in the Bahamas less than an hour earlier, but he now believed his planes had somehow drifted hundreds of miles off course and ended up in the Florida Keys.
Some speculate he confused the Bahamas for the Florida Keys, and when he turned to head back to the northeast, he aimed his Avenger and the squadron towards Iceland – 3,775 miles away.
“Dammit,” one man griped over the radio. “If we would just fly west, we would get home.”
“Cannot see land,” Taylor said. “We seem to be off course.”
“What is your position,” the tower responded.
Then there were a few moments of silence. Tower personnel peered out into the clear day in the direction where the planes were supposed to be operating, but there was no sign of them.
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023 Page 17
“We cannot be sure where we are,” the flight leader announced. “Repeat: Cannot see land.”
Contact was lost for about 10 minutes, but when it resumed, it was not the voice of the flight leader. “We can’t find west. Everything is wrong. We can’t be sure of any direction. Everything looks strange, even the ocean,” the voice reported. There was another delay, and then tower personnel learned from intercepted transmissions that the flight leader had turned over his command to another pilot for unknown reasons.
After 20 minutes of radio silence, the new leader’s voice transmitted to the tower, but it was trembling, bordering on hysteria. “We can’t tell where we are… everything is… can’t make out anything. We think we may be about 225 miles northeast of base…” For a few moments, the pilot rambled incoherently before uttering the last words ever heard from Flight 19. “It looks like we are entering white water… We’re completely lost.”
Within minutes, tower personnel scrambled two PBM Mariner flying boats carrying rescue equipment. They were headed for Flight 19’s last known estimated position and after 10 minutes into the rescue flight, they checked in with the tower, but that was the last time one of the rescue planes transmitted back to Fort Lauderdale’s flight operations. Now, six aircraft with personnel had vanished. For five days, Coast Guard, Navy, and naval aviation personnel searched extensively in more than 250,000 square miles of Atlantic and Gulf waters, but nothing was found—no aviators, wreckage, life raft, or even an oil
slick. Nothing. The Navy launched an investigation into the incident, but nothing conclusive was found.
Fourteen men were lost as a result of the Flight 19 tragedy. Thirteen more were lost from the PBM Mariner attempted rescue.
At first light the next day, the Navy dispatched more than 300 boats and aircraft to look for Flight 19 and the missing Mariner. The search party spent five days combing through more than 300,000 square miles of territory, to no avail. “They just vanished,” Navy Lieutenant David White later recalled. “We had hundreds of planes out looking, and we searched over land and water for days, and nobody ever found the bodies or any debris.”
For those who believe that something odd is going on in the area now known as the Bermuda Triangle Flight 19 has become a thing of legend. For those of you who have never heard of this mysterious incident, you might want to take a peek at the opening scenes from Close Encounters – it puts a great spin on the missing flight.
(See it here: www.youtube.com/ watch?v=IoR5YzpmAiw)
What really happened to Flight 19?
Many believe the wrecks of Flight 19 and its doomed rescue plane may still lurk somewhere in the Bermuda Triangle, but while the search continues to this day, no definitive signs of the six aircraft or their 27 crewmen have ever been found. Perhaps someday they will be found on the runway that brings us to a landing in Mysterious America. O’Life Out! ,
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I’m on a lot of email threads. Every morning, over coffee, I wade through the news, suggestions and ‘Best of’ lists that come across. In preparation for National Ice Cream Month, there were several ‘Best of Ice Cream’ lists and, diligently, I read them all.
Coincidentally, Brian received an email from Gary Renna with a suggestion for an Inside Scoop stop which I had already bookmarked for a future visit. I plotted a route for that future visit and had it sitting on my desktop.
Waking on July 16 to a less than inspiring day to throw a leg over a motorcycle, I was still determined to make a visit to some ice cream shop in celebration. We decided to head south from Backroads Central to the little burg of Martinsville, NJ and see what the lists and Mr. Renna’s suggestion had to offer. We were off to Gabriel’s Fountain Kitchen + Creamery for lunch and some ice cream.
Because I could, in no way, write the back story (real or faux) of Gabriel’s any better than what is on their website, I will give a synopsis and say that back in 1954 Gabriel Gucci Versace crashed his truck (which is still in their field), had a dream and opened Gabriel’s with the words in his head, ‘If you build it, they will come.’ Today, almost 70 years later, Gabriel’s Fountain Kitchen + Creamery has become a welcome spot for locals and travelers to get a delicious meal, with fresh ingredients and inventive offerings, finished off with some of the best ice cream I have tasted in quite some time.
In truth, Gabriel’s is a Bridgewater family-owned business which is now run by second-generation owner Alex Alb for the past nine years. Early this year, they closed for a bit to do a renovation - ‘New Year, New Me’ was the saying. Not having been there pre-renovation, I can only say that what they have is Americana Chic and it works very well. The outside is very Victorian in structure, with turrets and brightly painted. The landscaping is inviting, with plenty of seating all around and covered patios for outdoor dining. Don’t miss the rusty truck out back, which adds more Americana Chic to Gabriel’s flavor.
Speaking of flavors, save room after you have enjoyed a delicious lunch or dinner as Gabriel’s homemade ice cream has some of the most creative flavors, and the best consistency, around. Just a snippet of what you may savor for your
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023 Page 19 GaBrIel’s FountaIn kItchen + creaMery 1948 waShington valleY rD, MartinSville, nJ 08836 732-469-5800 • gabrielSFountain coM • Sun-thurS: 11:30a-9p • Fri/Sat ‘til 10p
meal - I had a HUGE Grilled Watermelon + Basil salad (enough to bring home for a second lunch) and Brian’s Smoke ‘N Avocado burger with sharp cheddar, sliced avocado, house chipotle aioli and smoked bacon was equally huge and super succulent. You HAVE TO try their Gabe’s Street Corn, which is a seasonal offering of char grilled NJ corn on the cob smothered in buttery brown sugar sriracha sauce, house chipotle aioli, smoked paprika, parmesan + fresh cilantro. I tell you it is to die for! I would imagine that there is nothing bad on their menu and I look forward to getting back to try more. But we are here to talk about ice cream, so here’s the deal. As with their seasonal items on the food menu, there are six rotating flavors in addition to their standards, which include such things as Strawberry Buttermilk, Black Raspberry Truffle, Roasted Banana and Cookie Monster (I do believe they
may ground up the real Cookie Monster to get their blue coloring). This day’s seasonals included Lemon Lavender Blueberry, Sour Cream & Bourbon Cherry, Roasty-Toasty S’Mores, Sweet Jersey Cornbread, Jelly Donut and Watermelon Garden Mint Mojito. How in the world can one make a decision with all this amazingness sitting in front of you? Well, I did, and after tasting the Sour Cream + Bourbon Cherry (fresh sour cream infused milk with house bourbon cherry jam + house candied sweet/tart cherry compote - OMG!) I opted for Sweet Jersey Cornbread (NJ sweet corn infused cream, sea salt, brown sugar, house smokey bacon greased cornbread & Turbinado sugar) and Chimney Rocky Road (Hickory smoked & hand cooked Dutch chocolate, roasted almonds, burnt marshmallow & dark chocolate chips). Brian had his litmus test of Madagascar Vanilla and Good Morning Coffee. I’d say that the coffee was some of the best ever, but I wouldn’t turn my nose up at any of the other flavors. The double-scoop servings were as large as the food servings but we had no issues finishing every lick.
The Vegan/Dairy-Free flavors, made with hand-made coconut milk or fresh fruit base, include Turkish Coffee, Key Lime Pie, Matcha Mint Chip and Watermelon Cucumber Basil Sorbet. Gabe’s also offers house made-mixed sodas
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of Brooklyn Chocolate, Bourbon Vanilla and Raspberry Hibiscus. How awesome would an ice cream soda be with any of these flavors?
And, of course, they have homemade waffle cones to add some extra crunch to your ice cream.
Should you be riding in with a
group, Gabriel’s does take reservations, available on their website or calling ahead. As I mentioned, there is ample seating inside on several levels as well as outdoors.
In order to try and equal the offerings at Gabriel’s, here are two routes: One is a 140 mile loop ride starting at Amanda’s Riverside Café in Upper Black Eddy, PA - Gary says they have a great breakfast - and ends at Van Sant Airport, a nice motorcycle hang spot. The other starts in my neck of the woods and is 60 miles one way, so plan to have some lunch before indulging in your decadence.
60-mile ride from Hampton Twp to Gabriel’s: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/8cvq5r
140-mile loop ride: www.sendspace.com/pro/dl/i8zvde
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023 Page 21
By Pamela Collins
Fogless vision, built-in sun shades, advanced ventilation, and im proved comfort—compared to motorcycle helmets of yore, today’s versions share very little with the noggin-covering shell-like beanies first developed over 100 years ago. Helmet design and manufacturing have undergone a technological revolution since then, arriving at their current state where safety, comfort, and state-of-the-art can combine.
Schuberth Helmets claims a position within that revolution. Twenty years ago it developed its first flip-up helmet, called the Concept. Last year it introduced the latest generation in that family tree of helmets— the C5.
Schuberth claims the C5 represents a giant leap in helmet manufac turing evolution, resulting from 20,000 engineering hours, 2000 tested helmets in a Schuberth environmental and wind test lab, and more than 400 hours of real-world test rides on German roads, resulting in a lighter, safer, quieter, and more modern-looking helmet than any thing it had manufactured before.
As an owner of Schuberth’s previous C3 woman’s and C4Pro woman’s helmets, I happily report the C5 modular retains some of my favorite features, such as the anti-rolloff system connected to the chin strap, the seamless head liner that eliminates “hot spots” from seams rubbing the scalp, and the quick ratchet-type under-chin fastener. But numerous tweaks and subtle upgrades to the C5 help it rise a step above its ancestors.
This helmet boasts a better ventilation system. The forehead area two-position vent remains, but now a new additional and adjustable front chin vent (with a re movable filter) joins the existing chin air intake to double the airflow in the front of the helmet. However, more air
doesn’t equal more noise, thanks to the redesigned neck spoiler and the new shell design optimized to draw out or exhaust that air and reduce noise at speed. I find the C5 muffles noise better than its predecessors.
Schuberth added a visor memory function to the C5, whereby the visor “remembers” and returns to the position it held upon the chinbar’s opening, and it also has a chinbar locking mechanism to hold up the bar should a rider want an open-face helmet feeling. The C5 boasts a wider field of view than its predecessors and comes with an internal sun visor and anti-fog lens insert. Flipping up the chinbar requires grasping and pushing the large button on the bottom upwards, after which the unit glides easily. The sun visor and face shield also smoothly move up and down. Wing-like protrusions on the helmet’s lower sides and channeled bumps at the top of the faceshield reduce wind resistance.
Schuberth’s Direct Fiber Processing system combines glass fiber with a special resin for the outer shell. It compresses the mixture in a vacuum, forming a sturdy yet very light helmet shell reinforced
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PRODUCT REVIEW SCHUBERTH C5 MODULAR MOTORCYCLE HELMET - THE HELMET EVOLUTION CONTINUES
with a basalt layer for strength. The helmet weighs just under four pounds, similar to the previous C4 Pro helmet.
The helmet’s new, luxurious-feeling, seven-part lining, which easily unsnaps from the shell’s interior, retains the prior models’ cozy, wicking, padded properties and requires only handwashing to clean.
The C5, considered an intermediate-oval design, comes in two shell sizes. The first covers sizes extrasmall to large and the second extra-large to XXXL. Schuberth discontinued having a gender-specific “women’s” helmet. Now, any man or woman who feels the helmet doesn’t fit perfectly can purchase different thicknesses of side, back, or cheek pads to help tailor a custom, comfortable fit—the seven-part interior assists with finding the perfect fit. Schuberth labels this the “Individual Concept,” but it only applies to medium, large, and extra-large helmet sizes. The C5 comes in six solid colors, or four graphic styles in nine different color combinations. Prices for solid colors begin at about $750, with additional cost for graphics, depending upon where you shop. Padding prices vary.
The C5’s communication system now called the SC2 and made by Sena Communications, underwent several changes. It now uses Mesh 2.0 technol ogy, eliminating the previous cap on the number of riders that could connect. The high-definition speakers and three antennas (FM Radio, Bluetooth intercom, and Mesh Intercom) are pre-installed in the SCHUBERTH C5. Installation is essentially plug-and-play easy--a battery pack snaps on the helmet’s rear, a controller onto the helmet’s left side, and a boom
microphone into a slot inside—ready to go in five minutes. However, this new microphone, designed to be placed in front of the mouth, uses more real estate inside the helmet than the tiny and discreet (but effective) previous mike of the SC1. Though designed to improve sound quality, this new setup can hinder the chinbar’s movement for some riders.
Using the previous edition SC1 system required only powering one unit, the controller, to be ready to roll. The new SC2 requires an extra step; now a rider must remember to power on the controller and the battery unit before each ride. Not a big deal, just something more to remember before throwing a leg over your bike.
I’ve worn the C5 for months and my other Schuberths for years. I have always appreciated the plush yet safe feeling they imparted and the attention to detail I found regarding their safety, convenience, and comfort features. The Schuberth C5 looks sleeker, more streamlined, and more modern than the C4 and especially the C3 generations. Though I still wear the other versions and have no real complaints about them, I like the C5 helmet the best. I find it quieter, more comfortable, and better fitting.
For more information on the Schuberth C5 helmet, visit the website at C5.schuberth.com/us
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023 Page 23
Few sights on the road grab the rider’s attention like a good waterfall. Unexpectantly coming across a striking cascade will always get a head turn or an unplanned stop.
I recall once Shira and I were riding in Portugal from Madrid. We were nearing the Pousada Mosteiro do Crato, a Portuguese castle that had been converted into one of the national hotels.
It had been raining terribly hard for the last few days, almost on the bad side of Biblical in strength, and as we came around one mountain, we were struck by the number of people from the local town that had come out to see one particular waterfall that, from the heavy rains, was running with power and strength no one had ever recalled.
The storms were to continue for days so we bit the bullet and stayed in the castle for a couple of nights – tough, I know. Upon realization that the only place on the Iberian Peninsula that was sunny was in Valencia and there would be the final round of MotoGP the following weekend. Naturally, that’s where we pointed the bikes. This was back in 2006, and we all know what happened in MotoGP that year, right? Okay, that is what Google is for.
Indeed waterfalls seem to have a mesmerizing effect on we humans.
For the record, the tallest waterfall in the world was not even discovered until 90 years ago. Angel Falls in Venezuela is considered the highest waterfall in the world, featuring a plunge of more than 2,600 feet. This epic waterfall
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• SEPTEMBER 2023
BACKROADS
was found in 1933 when aviator James Angel was flying over the Venezuelan jungle. I always assumed the Catholic Church was involved in this.
From that moment on, it went from being a secret of the Pemón indigenous people to an authentic icon of the country.
For another impressive cascade, we move to the Drakensberg Mountains of South Africa. There lies Tugela Falls, second on the list of 10 of the world’s tallest waterfalls, with a combined total drop of 3,110 feet. Upon arrival, two
The tallest waterfall found in the lower 48 states is Washington’s Colonial Creek Falls. Colonial Creek tumbles 2,568 ft down thirteen drops from the meltwater of Colonial Glacier, high on Colonial Peak in North Cascade National Park.
After the hard rains that battered our region in early July, we knew that some of the local falls would be flowing as heavily as you would ever see them.
Lucky for us a few of them are an easy day loop from Backroads Central. We decided to go looking for two of the biggest and took two Hondas with us along for the ride; the very capable, do anything CB500X and the more narrowly focused CB1000R.
Heading north on Route 206 from Branchville we bore left on Struble Road which heads deep into the forest on a narrow, but rideable road.
Along the way there we made a quick stop at Tillman Ravine.
trails lead to the falls, which consist of five distinct drops, creating one of the most impressive landscapes of the country, especially during the rainy seasons.
Our part of the planet has its share of great falls as well.
The top three are found in the middle of the Pacific, in our 50th state. The Olo’upena Falls tumble some 2,953 feet. this is followed by Pu’uka’oku Falls, adjacent to Olo’upena Falls, on the same dramatic drop-off known as the Haloku Cliffs, a roughly 3-mile stretch between the Pelekunu and Wailau valleys.
The second-highest waterfall in the states, and just a drop above Canada’s James Bruce Falls for the world’s eighth tallest, is also fed by humble seasonal streams (November to March is the rainy season on Moloka’i). Estimated to be 2,756 ft high Pu’uka’oku does not exhibit a continuous freefall but rather works its way down the nearly vertical and completely inaccessible cliff. But, those hungry for a glimpse will either need to approach by water or shell out for a helicopter ride like no other.
This part of the valley is very ancient with plenty of mature hemlock grove and an abundance of mountain laurel and rhododendron.
There is a short but steep Brianfriendly trail along a forested creek ravine that features the interesting
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023 Page 25
swirling “Tea Cup” structure at the bottom of a cascade. Even for those of us who think HIKE is a four-letter word – this is very doable.
When we got to the Walpack Cemetery we hooked a left on Mountain Road. Please note this road is not maintained and is 2.5 miles in and then out – we do not recommend you continue on, but ride out the way you came in, as the road is a gravel, pot-holed mess in spots.
But, the street-oriented CB1000R got me in and out – so any capable rider on any machine should be okay.
Buttermilk Falls is not only the tallest waterfall in New Jersey but is also found along some of the most pristine forests in the Garden State. Thanks to the Tocks Island Dam project, which never saw the light of day, the entire Walpack Valley looks much like it did when the Lenape natives called it home.
You have the option of admiring the falls from the bottom, or you can hike or take the stairs up to the top of the falls. It’s located close to the parking lot, so you’ll have no problem viewing the falls without hiking. There is a steep staircase that heads up and if you take this trail up the mountain (Yes, I said UP the mountain) you will run into the Appalachian Trail.
It has been my experience that waterfalls are best viewed from the ground up. Luckily for us, Buttermilk makes this easy.
Not so much with our next stop.
For our second waterfall, also holding the title as its state’s tallest cascade, we rode up through Walpack and then crossed into Pennsylvania on Dingman’s Ferry Bridge. I am always amazed at how many people, mostly non-riders, speak with fearful tones about this crossing. Chartered in 1834 it is America’s oldest private river crossing.
Before the bridge, there was a ferry that began in 1750 – one of the first ways across this historic river. We love Dingmans Bridge… it is a piece of Americana in our backyard.
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We headed north a bit along Route 209 and then left along Raymondskill Falls Road. We suggest the higher of the two parking lots (semi-civilized facilities).
Unlike Buttermilk, where you don’t even have to take off your helmet to enjoy… Raymondskill is going to make you work a bit for it.
While the trail is short, it is fairly steep and uneven. Bring some water and wear good boots or hiking shoes and be smart about your hike. It will be worth it.
The three-tieredRaymondskill Fallsis the tallest waterfall in Pennsylvania. If you add the height of each cascade together, the waterfall is only a few feet shorter than Niagara Falls.
The upper viewing area provides a view of the upper pool and its large cascade. The lower viewing area provides a great photo opportunity of the falls.
We were impressed with the water at But termilk Falls, but Raymond skill Falls were amazing in every way. So much water. So much fury. So much power.
We took in the top portion of the falls, before navigating the steep trail down to the lower viewing platform. We ran into three young women, who remark ably had cameras from when we were teens. One of them shot a Polaroid of us… nice!
Reading a bit about these falls from the official PA website they say… “Swimming and wading are not permitted within 50 feet upstream of waterfalls or in the waterfalls themselves.”
Fifty feet? Fifty Feet?! Five miles, thank you. Fall into this and there are no “Ooops.” Just, “He was a good man, God rest his soul.”
From here we swapped machines as Shira was piloting the 500X and she wanted to ride the sporty 1000R.
Our loop back towards home would bring us south and along the River Road that slides along the west bank of the Delaware River towards Water Gap.
We crossed back over into New Jersey and on the way back north along County Road 521 we made a pre-planned stop at White Lake.
The White Lake Natural Resource Area is a beautiful 441-acre preserve located in Hardwick Township. The park’s most notable feature, White Lake, is a deep 69-acre spring-fed water body, and during the summer months, on certain days, Warren County make available kayaks. These are free and all you have to do is call them ahead of time a reserve your spot.
We doubled up on one twoperson kayak and spent a way too short hour paddling around the lake that takes its name from the white marl that can be seen along its bottom. This hour on the peaceful White Lake was a great way to end a day full of furious falling waters. Check out the Warren County website at explorewarren.org to find out more or reserve your afternoon on the water. ,
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023 Page 27
PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS + REVIEWS
DENALI T3 ULTRA-VIZ LIGHTING KIT 4-IN-1 SAFETY FUNCTIONSWITH 360° VISIBILITY
The T3 Ultra-Viz provides 360 degrees of visibility to bring your safety to the next level. Paired with the Front T3 Modular Switchback Signal Pods, the side of your bike and the ground around it can be continuously illuminated for an even more conspicuous journey. With the turn signal feature connected, a flashing amber cloak envelops the side of your bike and the ground surrounding it.
Made from injection molded ABS, this kit provides a robust solution for mounting the T3 Switchbacks to the aluminum backbones of Barkbuster handguards and similar products. Whether you use the doublesided 3M tape or self-tapping screws, either option will ensure they’ll stay put during the toughest of rides.
T3 Ultra-Viz Bundle Part Number DNL.T3.10700 includes:
Ultra-Viz Lighting Mount Kit (Pair), T3 Modular Switchback Signal Pods - Front (Pair).
The Denali T3 Ultra-Viz 4-in-1 Motorcycle Safety & Visibility Lighting Kit list for $176.00 and can be found at better shops and at denalielectronics.com
ZAAR GUITARS INTRODUCESTHE REV STANDFOR GUITARS
Do you ride motorcycles… and love guitars? Us too.
So, we’d like to share with you a very unique guitar stand from Zaar Guitars – an Arizona guitar maker that is quickly making a name for themselves in the music industry. Why did they do this? Cause’ they wanted to.
It is the ultimate car/motorcycle-meets-guitar mashup! With its exhaust pipe design, it cradles your guitar safely till you’re ready to play. Then when the guitar is lifted off the Rev Stand… you’ll hear the revving begin from the built-in speakers. The Rev Stand has a built-in pick slot to hold picks for easy access when you’re ready to play. The sturdy and stylish, wide base shows off the exhaust tips while holding your guitar at a killer display angle.
Is this something you need? Probably not… but none of our adult toys are really needed either. Are they?
But, we wouldn’t trade them for a second. The Rev Stand Sells for $129.95 from ZaarGuitars.com
LOCKNFLATE AIR CHUCK
It has often been said that if you stepped outside a restaurant on any given Sunday with a large group of parked motorcycles and then checked their individual air pressure you will probably find that the majority of these machines are slightly too severely under-inflated.
The MSF has its T-CLOCS inspection.
T-CLOCS stands for tires & wheels.Controls.Lights & electrics,oil & fluids, chassis, stands.
Although we’d like to think we inspect our machines before each ride, like a fighter pilot giving his jet a close once-over before flight, the truth is we don’t.
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That is one of the reasons I stress washing your machine as it lets you see what is what with it. What we try to do, at least once a week, is check the tire pressure on the machines, and I especially do this before each tour.
I have a compressor with a monstrous hose that’ll reach every part of the barn, but the air chucks that I have been using, even the ones that claim to be locking, are simply lacking.
Enter the LockNFlate Air Chuck.
Unlike these other chucks that slip off or do not seal tightly around the tire’s Schrader valve, the LockNFlate allows you to use both hands to fill the tires. It does this by utilizing six spring-loaded steel jaws that lock tightly around the valve, ensuring the tightest of seals.
The LockNFlarte is available in both Open and Closed Flow designs. Just so you know (‘cause we didn’t)… Closed Flow means it must engage the tire valve for it to flow – used directly from a compressor or air hose. Open Flow lets the air pass freely on or off the valve stem and works great with inflator gauges or automatic air systems.
In action, the LockNFlate works brilliantly and truly locks onto the tire valves with gusto. On the BMW machines and motorcycles with tire valves that come straight out of the wheel, as well as most car tires, you have a direct angle of attack, making the LockNFlate perfect.
But, if your machine has wheels that have that torturous valve angle and need a small chuck, like our Kawasaki Z900RS, this might not work for you; but the same company that makes the LockNFlate also sells Motion Pro’s Pro Fill Air Chuck that has a multi-angle adapter to reach those hard to snatch valves. The LockNFlate Air Chuck is rated to 150 PSI, and its ¼ NPT Thread fits most standard air hoses. Both Closed and Open versions sell for $49.99 and you can find them at locknlube.com
Held desert II Gloves • ProtectIon & comfort
We have been big fans of Held Gloves for many years. For this late season hot-weather riding take a look at the Held Desert II Gloves. The Held Desert 2 Gloves were made for hot weather summer riding without sacrificing protection. Large mesh panels in the fingers and wrist flow air when you’re riding to keep your hand cooler and drier. Kangaroo leather palms are strong and supple for increased feel without decreased protection. SuperFabric reinforcements over the knuckle protector, pinky and ring fingers and as a palm slider ensure a high degree of protection. Hard plastic knuckle protection covered with SuperFabric protect those valuable knuckles and there is a reinforced edge of the hand, a palm slider, as well. Along the left index finger a built in squeegee will come in most handy.
Velcro allows for adjustment at cuffs, and like all the Held Gloves we have ever used, they will last for many seasons.
You can find Held Desert II Gloves from better dealers or on the web for around $140.
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023 Page 29
At the same time we took the keys to the Honda CB1000R, we also had another Honda come into the barn courtesy of Honda’s press people.
If the CB1000R was a beautiful brute – this other machine was the polar opposite. The Honda CB500X.
Wow, this is a neat-looking little bike, and we all were taken by the looks of this year’s livery - what Big Red was calling Pearl Organic Green. We just called it very sharp indeed.
The original version of this bike has been around for a decade, but in 2019 the wheels were swapped out from a 17-inch hoop to a more gravely-friendly 19-inch cast wheel, keeping the 17-inch rear; all this being pretty standard for streetish ADV machines.
The 471cc liquid-cooled parallel-twin engine, with slip-assist clutch and six-speed transmission, has proven itself over the last decade; and although the 47 horse-power may not seem like much – this machine’s smooth delivery and kick will surprise you. Around town, it is plenty enough.
I took the machine out for a quick errand, and climbing onto the CB500X I was immediately taken by the very com fortable and neutral riding position. The 500X weighs just 436 lbs., with the front suspension com prised of a Showa adjustable 41mm fork, while the rear suspension has a Pro-Link monoshock with adjustable preload. That “plenty enough power” is kept under control with dual four-piston calipers with 296mm discs, with a 240 single caliper in the rear, with modern ABS.
This ABS is non-switchable – but if you are going to be going up the Dalton
Highway you can just pull the fuse. (ed Honda might address this in upcoming model years.)
Although the bike has a claimed seat height of 32.8 inches, the narrow, yet comfortable seat allows for shorter riders (ie: Shira) to feel right at home on Honda’s little ADV machine. At 5-foot 12, with a 32-inch inseam – I felt a bit crunched on the bike – and for me this was the only blemish on what otherwise is simply one of the most fun little mid-size machines on the market today.
The Honda CB500X can be anything you want it to be… within reason. It would make a great starter machine and one that you will probably keep around for a good long time. With its 4.7-gallon tank getting more than 60+ clicks to the gallon it makes for a seriously competent commuter. Careful throttle maintenance could yield a 300-mile tank.
You could probably go to and from the office for the entire week with one fill-up, and that doesn’t suck.
On the road the machine is very nimble and handles light off-road – mostly gravel roads – with ease.
I really loved the engine that had plenty of power to carry my 215 pounds of bulk around town, and had enough left over to have a pillion as well – but I wouldn’t go cross-country two-up on this bike.
Page 30 BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023
MOTORCYCLE REVIEW Honda cB500X • IstHIsa BIketHat Is Just too mucH fun?
I do have one question… well, two… with only myself to blame.
Why did I not spend time on this machine before? Why was Kawasaki not aware of a twin powerplant like this when they re-released the KLR650?
(Oops – did I just say that?)
Sorry, Kawi – I have been a KLR rider for a long time, but this style engine might be something to think about when Gen 4 comes around.
We’ll admit, in the short time we had possession of it, we were not able to flog this machine around as much as it needed to be to – but for a long-term use we dropped in on a video with Eric Lange from RIDE Adventures. They have been using the Honda CB500X on their adventure tours for years, and they found the CB500X to be the unsung hero of ADV and Backcountry rid-
ing. You have to really try to break it… to break it. Especially since Honda replaced the 17-inch front wheel with a more off-road capable 19-inch rim – even with the cast wheel versus a spoked wheel.
With all the miles these guys put on these machines (and, these are rentals and we all know what happens to anything that is called a rental) it seems that the Honda CB500X is a perfect utility player. Highway, backroads, gravel roads, even some light one-track – this bike is limited only by the tires and rider’s skill.
Shira’s point of view: Being of smaller stature than Brian, I fit perfectly on the CB500X. The upright riding position, light weight and nimbleness were a joy. I felt very capable and secure on the gnarly Mountain Road leading to Buttermilk Falls and equally at home tooling around doing errands. With a small tank or tail pack mounted, it’s a great choice for a day ride or quick overnight.
For our money - looking at what is on the dealership floors right now – the Honda CB500X, especially in this year’s livery, is one of the best mid-size machines to be found.
The Honda CB500X can be had for $7299 and is at dealers now. ,
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023 Page 31
But here, more or less the mid-point, you will find a beautifully restored farmhouse that dates back a few centuries – the main house being built centuries ago. It is called the Century House Farm and it was bought by Frank and Anne Russo, who spent the next number of years slowly bringing the property back into verdant fields and an old house into a beautiful home.
Years back this place and the farm were a working restaurant and many a good time and celebration was found here. We like to think that good vibe rubbed off on our home as well.
Fully aware of the happy history of their new home Frank and Anne wanted to start something new, something a bit different.
If they were singularly looking to grab my attention, they did it easily with the broad banner that said “First Annual Cars & Guitars Party!” Oh, yeah.
I reached out that day to them and that’s when I had the pleasure of meeting our neighbors down the road –the Russos.
We often hear it is a small world… first off fellow rider and friend Tom Clark had been telling me for months that this event was to take place, but was vague on ex-
Fun Times Come to Hampton Township
Although Backroads Post Office says Augusta and BRC has a Newton zip code, we are actually found in Hampton Township. The township’s motto is “The Heartland of Sussex County”… whose motto is “People & Nature Together.” Boy, does that freak out my city friends. For the most part, this township is made up of forests, farms, and lakes.
I was coming down County Road 521, not far from Backroads Central, when I spied a banner that was not there the day before.
521 is a superb country two-laner that rolls 44 miles from Hope, New Jersey in the south, through Blairstown, Stillwater and right through the center of Hampton Township, and right past us on its way to the New York State line outside Port Jervis.
Page 32 BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023
actly where and when – then when meeting the Russos in person the question came up… “Do you know a Marcia Russo?”
That had my head tilt as we do know a Marcia – she is my brother’s wife –Frank Russo’s cousin. The world gets smaller by the minute.
Although it was such short notice, and we were unable to help promote Cars & Guitars in these pages, our weekly e-newsletter The Backroads Report came through and we know a number of you kids came to our little slice of New Jersey to take in a bit of the day-long festival.
Sandwiched between two weekends that saw storms and heat, Saturday, July 22 saw a perfect day for this inaugural event.
Blue sky, fine temps, and early that morning I could hear the distinct rumble of horsepower come rolling past Backroads Central – there were some stunning, different, and remarkable cars beginning to gather in the large field across from the Century Farm.
The Car Show began at 10 am, and the stage, which had mysteriously appeared a few days before, was back-dropped with Old Glory and was full of Marshall amps and several Fender guitars… Stratocasters, Telecaster, and Precision Bass – and two full drum kits were ready to start their magic come high noon.
We rode down and made a small donation to the Century Farm and Cars & Guitars – as this festival was free, the Russos simply asking for a donation with proceeds going to the
Hampton Township Volunteer Fire Company – our friendly neighborhood fire company and a most awesome and dedicated bunch of First Responders they are – trust me, we know.
At noon the stage came alive with Uncle Frank’s Band opening with the Star Spangled Banner. Throughout the day band after band would take the stage… Cast Iron Blues Band, Recording Artist Tom Nieman, E. Dau, Hellhounds, The Treblemakers, SB7, and Kikker.
Out on the field more than 200 cars and over 100 motorcycles rolled in –some seriously great-looking machines they were too. There was even one 5-Ton Military Truck.
The “Love” was felt all around – and the farm had over 50 volunteers, all giving their time to make this happen. Seeing this we were humbled to have at least gotten word of Cars & Guitars into The Backroads Report.
Even though Frank and Anne were just a bit busy we did get to corner them and ask a simple question… why?
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023 Page 33
The Russos said, “We wanted to do something to bring the community together. The Century Farm was a meeting place for all, with a restaurant and horse show every year. That died out many years ago. When we put her back together, we said, ‘What can we do to bring it back to its glory days?’ We thought, if we build it, they would come! So, that’s what we did. A car show and concert with ALL vehicles, two-wheels or four, it was open to all. We
had to bring the farm full circle… for everyone to enjoy. We need more events like this in America for all communities to get together with their neighbors and families.”
They added a special thanks to all the volunteers, Capital Craft, Nathan’s Food Truck, & Hampton Township Committee for being so supportive.
The next day I rode past the farm, the superb event seemingly gone as quickly as it appeared – but we are pretty sure this will be happening next year and we promise that we will give all of you plenty of notice… perhaps there will be a bit more Backroads Magazine involvement.
Some of you will be needing some great backroad routes to get to this almost hidden part of New Jersey… I think we can do that. See you in 2024! ,
Page 34 BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023
EVENT RECAP
New Acts and Old Staples: Gettysburg Bike Week Mixes it Up at 22nd Anniversary Rally
Gettysburg Bike Week, one of the premiere motorcycle rallies in the country, held its 22nd annual event at the Allstar Events Complex in Gettysburg, PA. Festivities kicked off Thursday, July 6th, 2023, and ran through Sunday, July 9th.
“You know, in the wake of the pandemic, we weren’t sure we’d be able to keep going,” said GBW event director Kelly Shue. “But now that’s a distant memory, things are better than ever, and we’re very grateful.”
Reveling in a full slate of motorsports and entertainment events, record crowds were thrilled by the hair-raising-hijinks of the Moto Motion Stunt Show; the Parade of Chrome (aka the 3rd-annual Jeremy Plank Memorial
the spring and summer months by Highland Games Academy – Gettysburg.
As usual, a bevy of musical acts thrilled rally goers throughout the weekend, with Night Ranger, Ace Frehley and Kid Kentucky and the American Badass Band headlining and Redemption Road, Shades of Raven, Throw Down Jones, Sapphire, Jasmine Cain and more warming things up.
All of this in addition to one of the biggest vendor villages in the country, an epic swap meet, the Antique Bike Show, two poker runs, drinks, drinks, and more drinks and some of the best motorcycle terrain in the east.
If you missed this year’s iconic rally, fear not: Plans for next year’s rally, number 23, are already in the works mark your calendar July 11-14, 2024!
New and returning riders can find updates, event schedules, lodging information and anything they ever needed to know about Gettysburg Bike Week by visiting www.gettysburgbikeweek.com
Ride); $500 cash prizes given out to the lucky winners of the Ride-In Bike Show; fireworks and much more.
Two new events were introduced this year: the first was the Moto Content Creator Meet and Greet, where some of the most influential biker babes and Moto Vloggers that Instagram, YouTube and Facebook have to offer mixed it up with folks at Friday night’s LED Light Show. The second was an authentic, family friendly introduction to Scottish outdoor games played during
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023 Page 35
Dear reader it is time to sit back, relax and let your mind travel into the ethereal void… a place where things happen and then do not happen, where things were, but then not.
There is a signpost up ahead – welcome once again to Alternate Universe.
Paul is a big gadget guy and he likes to have the latest and greatest of the things he likes on his machine.
Particularly GPSs. When Garmin announced the new zūmo XT2, Paul had to have it… The truth was his last XT had taken a shot when it popped off his GS on a dual sport ride. It still worked, but there was the new XT2 to be had.
Paul was blasting the Backroads when he rode through a small town and stopped to get fuel and use the john at a larger Stop & Go.
While fueling his bike there was a shady looking and slightly beat-up Toyota, the guy filling it was also shady looking and slightly beat-up as well. He made small talk with Paul commenting on Paul’s RT and everything that was on it. He asked about it all and Paul, being a nice guy, was happy to tell him about it all.
When he finished fueling the bike he strolled inside the Stop & Go to find the head. When he returned to his bike the other bay was empty. Getting on his bike something did not seem… right.
Holy Frack! The new Garmin zūmo XT2 was gone… an empty cradle there where once was a six-hundred-dollar global positioning device.
It was a long and angst-ridden ride home.
Meanwhile in an Alternate Universe….
Paul is a big gadget guy and he likes to have the latest and greatest of the things he likes on his machine.
Particularly GPSs. When Garmin announced the new zūmo XT2, Paul had to have it… The truth was his last XT had taken a shot when it popped off his GS on a dual sport ride. It still worked, but there was the new XT2 to be had.
Paul was blasting the Backroads when he rode through a small town and stopped to get fuel and use the john and a larger Stop & Go.
While fueling his bike there was a shady looking and slightly beat-up Toyota, the guy filling it was also shady looking and slightly beat-up as well. He made small talk with Paul commenting on Paul’s RT and everything that was on it. He asked about it all and Paul, being a nice guy, was happy to tell him about it all.
When he finished fueling the bike he strolled inside the Stop & Go to find the head. When he returned to his bike the other bay was empty. Getting on his bike he donned his helmet, slipped on his gloves, and pressed the button to fire up the BMW R 1250 RT -even with its crazy big TFT screen – he was still happy to see his new Garmin zūmo XT2, happily locked onto its cradle with MotoPumps super inventive Security Lock, go through its cycle and come right back to his pre-planned route.
Ahh, life was good on Paul’s boat.
So, there you have two scenarios; and it is obvious which Paul we all would like to be.
Years back Garmin GPSs came with little security screws that not only kept the GPS in place on rougher rides but discouraged criminals of convenience from making off with your GPS.
Why Garmin stopped doing this is beyond me.
Enter Robert Bandler and MotoPumps out of Lansing, New York.
Page 36 BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023
PRODUCT REVIEW GarmInzumo Xt + Xt2 securIty locksfrom motoPumPs
Superiority in Simplicity of Design…
There are a couple of Locking Mounts for Garmin devices, and they all have their good points and bad – the bad usually being size, bulk, and complexity of how they work, or their high-end price.
MotoPumps solution is marvelous in its simplicity of design and ease of use.
The MotoPumps Security Lock installs between the Garmin Zumo powered cradle and your chosen GPS mount that attaches to your motorcycle. The lock is thin enough that it allows you to re-use the stock mounting hardware included with your GPS mount. The security pin locks the GPS in place on the powered cradle that came with your Zumo XT and prevents the release plunger from being depressed. Installation takes a matter of minutes on any
GPS mount compatible with the Garmin Zumo XT.
The lock works by blocking the release of the GPS from the cradle and mount. The proprietary locking pin and key secures your GPS to the bike, preventing casual theft of your expensive Garmin Zumo XT/2 when you leave your bike unattended.
With a few quick turns of the 304 stainless steel security pin, with its proprietary security key, you can lock or unlock your GPS.
The billet 6061 aluminum plate is light, robust, corrosion-resistant, and unobtrusive.
The Garmin Zumo XT Security Lock by MotoPumps includes the security lock, security pin, and two security keys. Extra pins and keys are available as options from MotoPumps. We received two different versions from MotoPumps when we went about testing these locking brackets. The basic Security Lock runs $69.99 and can be used with most existing Garmin mounts. If you are looking to mount the XT onto, let’s say, a GS or KLR with a narrower cross brace or bracket, look to the All-in-One Mounting Bracket, for $99.99 which is available in different diameter depending upon machine and will keep your GPS safe and sound – from both vibrations and vagrants.
You have made a big investment in your machine, your riding and your accessories – protect it with Garmin zūmo XT & XT2 Security Locks from MotoPumps. Log onto motopumps.com for more information. ,
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023 Page 37
SEPTEMBERBRINGSCOOLERTEMPERATURESANDLESSCROWDEDROADS - THEBESTTIMETOBEOUTONAROADTRIP.
By Pamela Collins
For years, many riders regarded the Harley-Davidson Sportster as the shrimpy sibling of the H-D clan. Smaller, less powerful, with fewer bells and whistles, it functioned as a sidekick to its larger H-D brethren.
The big brothers can now step aside because H-D’s new 2023 Nightster Special has rolled into the spotlight and earned its time on the stage. Smooth, quick, and nimble, it offers motorcyclists a fun and lively ride while delivering plenty of power and state-of-the-art technology. Not every rider needs or wants a fully faired bagger or off-road traveler. Some of us “just wanna have fun,” to which the Nightster Special says, “Count me in.” Not too big or heavy, not too tall, peppy and lithe on the curves, with modern rider aids that don’t venture into high-tech overload, the new Nightster Special® should fill that “Goldilocks” sweet spot for many riders—it’s just right.
Powered by the new liquid-cooled VTwin Revolution Max 975T engine, the Nightster Special pulls fast and hard, with a peak of 90 horsepower at 7500 rpm and 70 ft. lbs. of torque at 5000 rpm powering its 485 pounds of wet weight. This power and weight combination plays well together whether the Nightster Special happy dances around curves or over straightaways. This motorcycle
also offers riding modes—rain, sport, road, or customizable—to match riding style to riding temperament for that day. I noticed minimal vibration from the motor and a clear, steady rear view in the bar-end mounted mirrors.
I found myself grinning a lot during my 350-mile, two-day excursion on the Nightster Special during Daytona’s 2023 Bike Week. I liked my new playmate more than other Sportsters and larger Harley models I’d previously ridden. The suspension smooths bumps well enough, while the four-piston caliper front and single-piston caliper rear brakes perform adequately, although the rear brake felt somewhat wooden. Upshifting the six-speed transmission requires a hard tug of the boot to change gears, but the now adjustable slipper clutch (and brake) lever reduces aches for smaller hands. Minimal handlebar pressure produces quick and easy turning, and the Nightster’s ride feels solid, planted, and responsive overall.
The stated seat height of 27.1 inches accommodates riders of most leg lengths and provides two-up seating, including a rear pillion and passenger footpegs as standard equipment. The seat felt uncomfortable after 50 miles or so, but the small windscreen provided surprising protection when traveling interstate speed limits. An under-seat 3.1-gallon gas tank lowers the center of gravity, and I averaged 55 miles per gallon. Mid-mount foot controls and an easy reach to the handlebars provide a “knees in the breeze” riding position that I liked. H-D literature describes the Nightster’s® appearance as a classic silhouette with a
Page 38 BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023
MOTORCYCLE REVIEW
Harley-davIdson’s new nIGHtster sPecIal • PUTTINGTHE “SPORT” BACK INTOTHE SPORTSTER FAMILY
vintage, 70’s look and logo; I think its frame resembles Harley’s V-Rods from twenty years ago.
The Nightster Special wears a 19-inch front and a 16-inch rear tire, and a big two-into-one exhaust (that sounds great) hangs off its side. The headlight, taillight, and turn signals feature LED lights.
The Nightster Special includes rider safety enhancements and creature comforts not typically associated with H-D’s smaller sibling, including traction control (that can be turned off), ABS braking, tire pressure monitoring, and a slipper clutch. Cruise control comes standard and works intuitively and well. The new, included heated grips help soothe hands on cold rides.
Other rider aids have trickled into the Nightster Special’s arsenal of offerings. The color four-inch viewable area TFT display shows all sorts of details while using the handlebar-mounted switch to scroll through its screens, including speedometer, current gear, odometer, fuel level, clock, trip, ambient temp, low temp alert, side-stand down alert, TIP over alert, range, and tachometer. Phones and headsets connect via Bluetooth to access phone calls, music, and navigation (available only through the H-D app). The bike also has a USB port.
The Nightster Special comes in four colors, and prices begin at $14,999 for black or $15,449 for a color, plus freight and a surcharge. For more information, visit the Harley-Davidson website at www.harley-davidson.com or your nearest Harley-Davidson dealer. ,
BACKROADS • SEPTEMBER 2023 Page 39
