The Food Issue - Volume 48 by The Badger Herald

STUDENT MEDIA AT THE UNIVERSITY OF WISCONSIN

THURSDAY NOVEMBER 17, 2016 · FOOD SPECIAL · BADGERHERALD.COM

THE FOOD ISSUE A student’s guide to the isthmus’ best eats

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edibles by bucky Get a slice of PDR

Get $1 burgers at Red Rock on a Wednesday

Discover the location of Mactaggarts deli

Get trashed and eat plaza burgers with the Badger Herald on a Thursday

Help put Los Gemelos out of business at Tres Amigos

Spend your entire life savings on a Graze Burger

Help put Tres Amigos out of business at Los Gemelos

Spend your entire life savings at Glaze thinking it’s Graze

Assemble a miserable lunch at Badger Market

Eat nachos at Red Zone

Get cheese curds from Fabulous Lunchbox

Fugu? No, fug-me!

Eat a slippery snack of dumplings at Paul’s Pelmini

Pay $7.33 for a box of indigestion at QQ’s Express

Order a double chocolate chunk at Insomnia Cookies

Drop a double chocolate crap in your bathroom

by Dan Chinitz Banter Editor

152 W. Johnson Suite 202 Madison WI, 53703 Telephone 908.257.4712 Fax 608.257.6899 11,500 copies printed Tuesdays. Published since Sept. 10, 1969

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h c n u r B n o s i d a Best M . . . r o F s Spot

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rec very by Henry Solotaroff-Weber ArtsEtc. Editor

Congratulations! You’ve decided to be responsible this morning and give your body the brunch it needs to recover from last night. These brunch spots serve food packed with nutrients that will soak up any leftover alcohol and get you ready to tackle studying — or another night out.

1. LAZY JANE’S

2. THE GREEN OWL

baked goods, scramblers

etarian huevos rancheros), vegan biscuits and gravy, vegan apple pie French toast helpful beverages: Kombucha, juices, teas (hot and iced) verdict: Madison’s premiere vegan/vegetarian restaurant also delivers for brunch goers as well. The restaurant’s absence of meat allows for a both delicious and nutritious brunch experience — perfect for nursing a hangover. The presence of drinks like kombucha are also perfect for a personal detox after a rough night out.

price: $$ hangover food offerings: Wide array of in-house helpful beverages: Bottomless coffee verdict: Lazy Jane’s on Willy Street is a fantastic brunch spot

that too often falls under the radar on campus due to its distance from downtown. The cozy bakery/restaurant is the perfect place to recover after a wild night as the curated menu will heal any physical hangover and the stellar coffee-pastry combo available will surely nourish any emotional one.

3. MICKIE’S DAIRY BAR

price: $ hangover food offerings: Everything on the menu helpful beverages: Milkshakes verdict: Those looking for an indulgent brunch recovery experience should look no further than one of Madison’s oldest brunch institutions, Mickey’s Dairy Bar. The restaurant, a stone’s throw away from Camp Randall, features huge portions of all sorts of delicious entrées ranging from scramblers to pancakes and everything in between. For those looking to kick it up a notch, the milkshakes are also to die for. 4 • badgerherald.com • November 17, 2016

price: $$ hangover food offerings: Nuevos rancheros (veg-

4. DANE COUNTY FARMER’S MARKET

price: $ hangover food offerings: Weekly rotating breakfast

made by visiting chefs, cheese curds helpful beverages: Coffee, tea or juice verdict: While not technically a restaurant, the Dane County Farmer’s Market, whether it be the indoor or outdoor one, is the perfect place to go around brunch time to recover from a bad hangover. The indoor farmer’s market features a delicious breakfast, which a different chef from local restaurants makes each week. The outdoor one has no such option, but features a wide array of free samples (so many cheese curds) that can be make at least two meals in and of themselves.

h c n u r B n o s i d a Best M . . . r o F s Spot

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booz For those missing fall game days, a boozy brunch is the perfect substitute for a raucous morning at Camp Randall. There are few greater pleasures than eating amazing food with your friends, while drinking away last night’s memories and creating new ones all before the clock strikes noon.

1. D-LUX

2. SHORT STACK EATERY

wiches, fried chicken and waffles

ent types of pancakes

a can’t-fail option. Bottomless mimosas for $12 is simply unmatched in Madison and will guarantee you get a proper buzz to start morning diversions off right. In addition to the mimosas, D-Lux also offers some great greasy, yet refined, fare that will only look more and more appealing with each mimosa.

cocktails: Bloody Mary featuring in-house pickled vegetables and sriracha-salted rim verdict: The recently-opened diner slides comfortably into the No. 2 slot of booziest brunch spots because it hits the mark on so many aspects of the boozy brunch — it’s hard to pick out just one. The State Street diner is practically an ace, whether you want sweet or savory, and definitely if you want something with alcohol in it.

3. CENTO

4. CHASER’S

price: $$ drunk food offerings: Five different breakfast sandsignature brunch cocktails: Bottomless mimosas verdict: Choosing D-Lux as your go-to for drunk brunch is

price: $$$ drunk food offerings: Breakfast pizza, 8 oz. grilled burger

signature brunch cocktails: Carafes of either

the Bella Frizzante (prosecco-based) or Bulleit Ritorno (bourbon-based), which serve five to eight. verdict: While definitely a bit pricey for a college budget, anyone looking to do some bougie boozing for brunch can look no further than Cento. The classy joint, located right by the Overture Center, does an Italian-inspired brunch, which is rare for Madison. While costly, the buzz at Cento is worth every cent

price: $$ drunk food offerings: Breakfast sandwich, five differsignature brunch cocktails: Signature brunch

price: $ drunk food offerings: Burgers, wings, cheese curds signature brunch cocktails: Bloody Mary, screwdrivers

verdict: While not technically a brunch spot by standard

conventions, the bar and grill opens 9 a.m. Saturdays, and also features a shuttle to Camp Randall during football season. The Gorham Street staple has a full array of typical cocktails including brunchy ones like Bloody Marys and screwdrivers. Anyone looking for a lunch-heavy brunch with booze will be sure to find it at Chaser’s. November 17, 2016 • badgerherald.com • 5

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GRAZE Eatery is luxurious escape for fine dining cravings With eclectic mix of cuisine, Capitol Square restaurant’s dinner experience is well worth wait time by Abby Geurink ArtsEtc. Staff Writer

Anyone walking down Pinckney street will pass Graze’s glass-faced building and long for a posh dinner getaway. Situated on the Capitol Square on the corner of Pinckney and Main Street, Graze usually is in high demand for dinner, permitting at least a 45 minute wait on a Friday night. But before patrons even take their seat, their eyes feast on the glass establishment, the fresh, contemporary, youthful atmosphere and a booming crowd. The aesthetic is refreshing, with a kitchen that prepares meals with acceptable rapidity and uniformity. Once handed a menu and assigned one of Graze’s intimate seating arrangements,

customers will ponder how they will select among the rich cuisine. Take for instance, the bibimbap and the moules frites. With a choice of tofu or marinated ground pork, the bibimbap is made up of sunnyside-up egg, served over crunchy rice, garden-fresh vegetables and gochujang — a mouthwatering, zesty and biting sauce created from sticky rice, red chili, spice and soybeans. The moules frites — the ideal dish for anyone with a weakness for seafood — is made up of chili-braised mussels, zesty white wine stock, cilantro, trimmed fennel and french fries with aioli, — a relish consisting of olive oil and garlic. This meal — an enormous amount of food and an outstanding, quality dinner — is $18. Another praised dish is Graze’s pub burger — but it comes with

a twist. Served on an English muffin as opposed to a conventional bun, it’s a Graze classic. Other entree options include rainbow trout, bacon-rabbit sausage, rigatoni, mac n’ cheese, hot chicken and pickles, grilled lamb loin, steak frites and a more lavish burger option. In the manner of impressive high-end eating, there is a selection of first-rate starters. Fried pickles with dill ranch, Koreanstyle nachos, pork buns and roasted market vegetables make up an impressive lineup. For something extra, order a roasted beet salad or grilled shishito peppers — both gluten-free. In addition to weekend dinner served from 5-11 p.m., Graze offers lunch and brunch, which have completely different menus. Graze isn’t for one with simple tastes, but it is excellent — and the bill is worth it.

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Photo Âˇ Modern atmosphere and innovative menu options are worth the steep bill at one of downtownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best places for a savory bite. Jason Chan The Badger Herald

Black Friday Just Got a Little Brighter.

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What’s up with Dough Baby’s ‘girl gang?’ Delicious donuts aren’t the only thing that’s special about this locally-sourced bakery

by Frankie Hermanek ArtsEtc. Staff Writer

Dough Baby just popped up on State Street, and all eyes are on the female trio running the show. Meet Kristine Miller, Kathryn Gullickson and Hannah Ancona — owner, manager and pastry sous chef, respectively. With a heartening story to tell, the Badger Herald sat down with Miller and Gullickson to hear it out. And the hook? — they’re just getting started. The following interview was edited for style and clarity.

What’s the story behind Dough Baby?

It’s kind of a concept we both [Miller and Kathryn Gullickson] had at the same time, thinking about what Madison needs as far as pastry and bakery. We’ve definitely been missing a small batch donut place that makes good quality donuts. Greenbush is awesome, but I think we’re ready to see the next level up.

BH KG

Dough Baby is all female-run. Did you go into this business with this goal? I think it kind of just happened organically. We just wanted to work in an environment that

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really created a culture of teamwork and empowerment — just feeling good at the end of the day. We brought Hannah [Ancona] in as our baker, and she worked with us prior to [Dough Baby]. We became this trio, and it kind of just snowballed into this symbol of female empowerment — like a girl gang, as we like to call it.

Have you gotten responses to this?

positive

We actually have. People look on our website and see what our team is. I didn’t think it would be that unusual to be honest, that it was a woman-run business — but apparently it is. It’s pretty cool that people noticed, and we get feedback on that.

BH KM

Do you have a business mission?

We definitely want to focus on women and children. Dough Baby is named after my son, and it’s close to our heart. I feel like that’s a demographic that needs all the support it can get, and is kind of undermined in our society. Kristine had been a pastry chef for years, and I think she saw a hole that needed to be filled. The thing that made me so drawn to the project was that she had this experience and she had the knowledge of local sources, and places

where we can get really good ingredients. I think what a lot of people don’t understand is, yes, they’re donuts, but it takes a lot of time and it takes really good ingredients to make our product. I think it’s putting the integrity back into donuts and actually being really proud of the product that includes so many local sources. You feel good about it because you’re not only utilizing the products around you and helping out smaller businesses while you’re making you’re own product, but you’re also putting out this really great product that you can be proud of. You can feed your kid and be stoked to give it to him because the ingredients are true and real.

What advice do you have to female entrepreneurs? Wow, we’re so new. But it’s really surrounding yourself with a supportive team.

We’re obviously friends, so we support each other on a friend level. Our partners at home — boyfriends and husbands — have total support. I think a lot of times people are in situations where they’re not necessarily getting that — and it is difficult. It’s a million hours a week, you never stop working, so you really need that backbone to get through the difficult process of opening a business. Obviously you need financial support, but I think [support] is

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almost bigger than the financial piece. The support and the team and having a passion, and an overall goal and a clear vision [is important]. If you just keep putting in the energy and putting in all the good vibes, I feel like you’re manifesting something good to happen. Just put your nose down and grind.

Photo · The airy shop’s owner and manager said she wants to “focus on women and children” as a business mission. Photo courtesy of Jonah Leurquin

November 17, 2016 • badgerherald.com • 9

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Q&A: Miko Poké’s Hawaiian-influenced bowls offer welcome change of culinary scenery With its modern, tropical aesthetic, Monroe Street eatery graces Madison with new type of cuisine, healthy, tasty options; stylish eatery is sister-restaurant with Everly by Ali O’Rourke ArtsEtc. Staff Writer

Monroe Street’s hidden cuisine gem lies in Miko Poké, a Hawaiian-influenced restaurant that prides itself with in-house ingredients. The Badger Herald sat down with general manager Ben Brady and executive chef Scott Harrell to talk about how they got started, where they source their ingredients and why Miko Poké is one of a kind. The following interview was edited for style and clarity.

Where did the idea for this restaurant come from?

The original idea was from our chief creative officer, Caitlin Suemnicht. Through research, the menu just kind of naturally happened. They originally hired me for Everly, and Miko is part of that project, so the two restaurants are kind of one big project.

How long has Miko been in the works?

Planning for Miko has been about three to four months — from many developments, from going to Los Angeles and trying other styles of poké to get a really good idea of the style of this food. The most important thing when you are doing something that is not of your culture is to get it right, to not make mistakes and offend people — and poké is really simple. It’s really high quality fish that we bring in daily, and gorgeous rice and fresh ingredients. It’s supposed to be healthy, so that’s the main emphasis of it.

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BH SH BH

Is there only one chef? I have a sous chef, his name is Matthew, and for the first month it was just the two of us. It was a good amount of work.

Where does poké originate from? Is it Hawaiian?

It is, yes. The Hawaiian style is very simple since there is always readily available fish. [They use] raw fish and rice — which is very abundant in their culture, and fresh vegetables. Here at Miko, we try to make it approachable for everyone — to give those signature dishes and have a menu that is completely gluten and dairy-free.

What kinds of customers do you think will be attracted to this restaurant?

We have something for everyone. If you don’t eat raw fish, we have sautéed rock shrimp and we have roasted chicken as well.

The whole emphasis for the restaurant is that we do everything in-house. Nothing is processed ahead of time, so that makes it a very healthy dining experience, which is also important.

We have had a really large population of students coming in, but the neighborhood is really excited to have us here as well. Even my grandma was in here the other day. She doesn’t eat raw fish but she loved the teriyaki chicken.

Where recipes?

did

you

get

the

My crazy brain? Just research and knowing flavors and respecting flavors in a style of food and making something approachable. And experience. I’ve cooked for 15 years. My friends had a ramen shop in Chicago which taught me a lot about Asian influence and flavor components.

Where are your ingredients from?

Our Scottish salmon is from Scotland, it’s farm-raised. Don’t picture a farm, picture giant valleys and mountains and large open water that they put nets up around — but the fish still swim free. The nets are to block parasites so that it is safe to eat raw. Our yellow fin tuna, ahi and albacore all come from the ocean near Hawaii. They are caught and then delivered basically the next day. So you can’t get fresher.

I wanted to add that with farmraised fish, you can also control their diet. There are other ways of farming fish, but we really put a lot of research into getting really high quality salmon.

BH SH

What else does Miko Poké do besides poké?

Hawaiian shave ice, and the potato chips and the seaweed salad. The seaweed salad is marinated seaweed with a house-made ginger sesame vinaigrette, sesame seeds, garlic chili oil and fresh cucumber.

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BB BH

The shave ice varies from a snow cone — it is a very fine shave, it’s very light and fluffy.

Are you the only poké restaurant in the area?

Other restaurants might have a special here and there, but no one else specializes in it.

And we are the only poké restaurant in Wisconsin, to the best of our knowledge.

Photo · The hip spot’s general manager says there’s something for everyone, even people who aren’t fans of raw fish, the base of most of the dishes. Marissa Haegele The Badger Herald

November 17, 2016 • badgerherald.com • 11

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Red Sushi brings same exceptional sushi to different, savvy location Asian fusion restaurant’s new location on West Washington Avenue is bigger, better than before by Ali O’Rourke ArtsEtc. Staff Writer

Generally speaking, Wisconsin isn’t renowned for its sushi. Red Sushi challenges that reputation and brings creative, highcaliber sushi to Madison. Recently relocated from King Street, Red’s new West Washington Avenue spot is sleek, modern and somehow says “nightclub” even when the sun is still up. The location is bigger than the last, offering more seating

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and less wait time. Red’s décor is abstract with details reminiscent of the sushi itself, such as light fixtures that look vaguely like fish eggs. All of these elements create a zen atmosphere, ideal for perfecting one’s chopstick technique and enjoying a peaceful meal. The menu reads like a virtual novel of sushi rolls, while the drink menu is an archive of more types of sake than Madison knew existed. The rolls range from classics like the California roll to more complex rolls

like the Eighty-Six, which includes sea snail and octopus among other raw seafood — not for the faint of heart. Along with the lengthy list of sake, a variety of specialty cocktails are available and made-to-order to accompany any type of sushi. Red pushes the limits of what people traditionally think of as sushi, offering unique ingredients like jalapeños, sweet potato and strawberries. They also offer to customize rolls with the choice of a cucumber wrap, different types of rice and

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facebook.com/badgerherald more. For daring customers, quality sashimi is available and made from uncommon ingredients such as quail egg and sea urchin. Rolls arrive on simple white plates, showcasing their colorful ingredients. The fresh sushi is a work of art, perfectly constructed by chefs visible over the sushi counter. Every plate that comes out is made with the same care as the one before it, filling the dining room with unique and colorful rolls Sushi, however, is not all Red has to offer.

They also serve basics like edamame and vegetable tempura, as well as Asian fusion staples, like ramen and steamed buns with pork belly and kimchi. For vegetarian and vegan customers, there are plenty of options, like the grilled vegetable roll with baby bok choy and eggplant. Though Red may seem intimidating with its long waitlist and high-end décor, it can be just as accessible and casual as any other lunch or dinner destination in Madison. Calling ahead for dinner or weekend

reservations is a good idea, while lunch walk-ins are usually a short wait or no wait at all. Red also offers plenty of lunch and dinner deals on sushi, sashimi and steamed buns that make a meal very affordable. Achieved through high quality ingredients, friendly wait staff and creative offerings, Red holds a reputation in the Madison community as a no-brainer for sushi cravings — or even just a glass of sake. Their consistent quality makes Red a foolproof destination.

Photo · One of Madison’s classiest joints has relocated from King Street near the Capitol and is pleasing customers with hip vibes, faster wait time. Jason Chan The Badger Herald

November 17, 2016 • badgerherald.com • 13

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Nutrient-dense, vegan, vegetarian dishes shine at The Green Owl Cafe Local green eatery attracts herbivores, carnivores alike to Atwood Street location

by Megan Horvath ArtsEtc. Staff Writer

Located in Madison’s east side Atwood neighborhood, The Green Owl Cafe is the city’s only vegan-vegetarian restaurant. Despite the veg-friendly menu, the restaurant focuses on local, quality ingredients that even meat-eaters would not dare turn away. Feast on jackfruit quesadillas and kale chips or a bowl of sesame peanut noodles — the dishes at The Green Owl Cafe emphasize healthy meals without sacrificing flavor. The restaurant is intriguing from the outset. The vibrant green-painted façade, the tree branch-supported sign and the perched owl are welcoming and provide an accurate introduction to the unusual menu found within The Green Owl Cafe. In the warmer months, the front patio area is ideal. Thanks to the plentiful incorporation of vegetables and healthy grains, the overall aesthetic of the menu items is impressive and the natural lighting from dining al fresco amplifies the beauty. Though Wisconsin winters likely confine diners to the inside of the restaurant, the appearance of the dishes are not compromised indoors. The Green Owl Cafe offers a menu of

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appetizers, entrees, salads, sandwiches, sides and even weekend brunch, with each category riddled with gems. Listed as an appetizer on the menu, the Raw Taco Plate challenges the common conception of the taco and the smoky spices of the dish satisfy cravings while remaining meat-free. Also vegan and gluten-free, the tacos are served in romaine lettuce shells in place of the standard tortilla, which proves a lighter option without the sacrifice of familiar taco flavors. The sundried tomato-walnut chorizo stands in as the typical meat filling and offers the same texture and taste expected of typical tacos. Stuffed with sliced avocado, fresh pico de gallo and topped with creamy cilantro jalapeno dressing, the additions pair well with the strong flavors of the unique vegan chorizo. Studded with scallions, pepitas and dried cranberries and flavored with a nutty dressing, the Quinoa Salad is another must. This vegan, gluten-free option is a refreshing combination of textures and though it is listed as a side, the concept of the dish would stand strong as a full entrée. Held together with a light toss of dressing, the chewy quinoa is a great base for the fresh scallions, the baby pumpkin seed pepitas and tart cranberry morsels. The salad may be simple, but the flavors are exciting, and this side alone warrants a return trip.

For a heartier entrée, the Groundnut Stew is a warming option and ideal for the skeptic seeking a flavorful dish without the meat. This traditional African sweet potato stew consists of cabbage, ginger, peanuts and cilantro, served on top of brown rice and steamed kale. The deep orange color of the sweet potatoes proves eating is first done with the eyes. The dish is vibrant in appearance and rich in flavor with undertones of ginger and peanut. The stew offers a generous portion, but the health of the dish makes it a guilt-free choice. Desserts at The Green Owl Cafe shed an impressive light on vegan baking, so certainly ask for a dessert menu at the end of the meal. The desserts vary seasonally, but of course are all vegan. Coconut cream pie, chai tea cake and even cheesecake have made the menu, but it is the chocolate lava cake that may be The Green Owl Cafe’s most popular dessert. The cake is rich, soft and warmed. The lava-like center filling is gooey and fudgy and everything you would expect from a chocolate dessert. It is a wonder that it is vegan, and it certainly cannot be deduced from tasting it. For those in need of flavorful vegan foods or for those looking to eat more inspired, nutrientdense dishes in the new year, The Green Owl Cafe is a trusted option and ray of sunshine in these frigid temperatures.

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Photo · One of Madison’s healthiest, most adventurous spots, the restaurant satisfies even the most health-conscious customer. Meghan Horvath The Badger Herald November 17, 2016 • badgerherald.com • 15