Bali Expat - Issue 02 - Why We Love Bali

Welcome to Our Global Family

Bali Expat足足 揃 足20 June - 3 July 2012

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We like to think of our school as a part of your extended family. Our school community provides a safe and friendly learning environment dedicated to meet the individual needs of every student. Our partnership with parents enables students to achieve personal growth and academic success.

2 BALI CAMPUS Preschool to Year 12 T : (62-361) 734 936, 734 937 F : (62-361) 732 209 bali@ais-indonesia.com

Indonesia's Largest Expatriate Readership

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2nd Edition

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JAKARTA Kemang Campus Preschool 3 to Year 6 T : (62-21) 7179 2949, 7179 0437 F : (62-21) 7179 0937 kemang@ais- indonesia.com

JAKARTA Pejaten Campus Year 7 to Year 12 T : (62-21) 782 1141, 782 4024 F : (62-21) 782 7871 pejaten@ais-indonesia.com

BALIKPAPAN CAMPUS Preschool to Year 10 T : (62-542) 750 781 F : (62-542) 750 791 balikpapan@ais-indonesia.com

20th June - 3rd July 2012 Welcome to Our Global Family We like to think of our school as a part of your extended family. Our school community provides a safe and friendly learning environment dedicated to meet the individual needs of every student. Our partnership with parents enables students to achieve personal growth and academic success.

3 BALI CAMPUS Preschool to Year 12 T : (62-361) 734 936, 734 937 F : (62-361) 732 209 bali@ais-indonesia.com

JAKARTA Kemang Campus Preschool 3 to Year 6 T : (62-21) 7179 2949, 7179 0437 F : (62-21) 7179 0937 kemang@ais- indonesia.com

JAKARTA Pejaten Campus Year 7 to Year 12 T : (62-21) 782 1141, 782 4024 F : (62-21) 782 7871 pejaten@ais-indonesia.com

BALIKPAPAN CAMPUS Preschool to Year 10 T : (62-542) 750 781 F : (62-542) 750 791 balikpapan@ais-indonesia.com

Welcome to Our Global Family We like to think of our school as a part of your extended family. Our school community provides a safe and friendly learning environment dedicated to meet the individual needs of every student. Our partnership with parents enables students to achieve personal growth and academic success.

4 BALI CAMPUS Preschool to Year 12 T : (62-361) 734 936, 734 937 F : (62-361) 732 209 bali@ais-indonesia.com

JAKARTA Kemang Campus Preschool 3 to Year 6 T : (62-21) 7179 2949, 7179 0437 F : (62-21) 7179 0937 kemang@ais- indonesia.com

JAKARTA Pejaten Campus Year 7 to Year 12 T : (62-21) 782 1141, 782 4024 F : (62-21) 782 7871 pejaten@ais-indonesia.com

BALIKPAPAN CAMPUS Preschool to Year 10 T : (62-542) 750 781 F : (62-542) 750 791 balikpapan@ais-indonesia.com

Lost in Bali. Find out who this handsome young chap is on page 9.

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20 June - 3 July 2012 · Bali Expat­­­

Dear Readers makes everything ok: sing ken ken (translated to ‘no worries, mate’ in Australian).

2nd Edition | 20 June - 3 July 2012

Editor in Chief Angela Richardson angela@baliexpat.biz Management Edo Frese edo@jakartaexpat.biz

L

ast week I experienced many different faces of Bali, from the ultra chic in Seminyak, the man-made opulence in Nusa Dua, the cool green padi fields of Ubud to stepping back in time on the sleepy north-eastern coast of Tulamben where time seems to have stood still in the 1980s.

Editorial Assistant Silvia Forsman silvia@baliexpat.biz Sales Dian Mardianingsih ads@baliexpat.biz Silvia Forsman silvia@baliexpat.biz

If you were to ask me “Why do you love Bali?” my answer would not be a short one.

Distribution Dian Mardianingsih dian@baliexpat.biz

Bali to me is like no other place on earth. Although progress in the South is overwhelming for most, a hop, skip and a notso-distant drive away unveils a different face to this island, one where cranes do not clog up the scenery and traffic and road works are but a far-away memory. In these spots the true Bali is revealed and its beauty intensified by its people and their ways. I love Bali because of how she welcomes me on every trip (after escaping the madness of the airport of course) the red sunsets over the crashing waves, rolling rice fields, cheeky monkeys, the smell of incense and offerings that decorate the pavements, the magnificent underwater world, nasi campur, fake Oakleys on taxi drivers, and the wonderful phrase that

Graphics Frederick Ng fred@baliexpat.biz Finance & Admin Pertiwi Gianto Putri tiwi@baliexpat.biz Lini Verawaty lini@baliexpat.biz Contributors Adriana Williams David E. Parry Eamonn Sadler Jelila Kadek Krishna Adidharma Martin Jenkins Stephanie Brookes Editorial Enquiries letters@baliexpat.biz Circulation Enquiries info@baliexpat.biz

IN THIS 2ND ISSUE:

Although there may be a general feeling of uncertainty – scared of how fast the changes are coming and not sure what the future will hold – I know that most of you will still love Bali as I do; it’s not a place you can just turn your back on.

When the negatives feel like they’re creeping up on the positives, take a trip away from the hustle and bustle and rekindle that flame. You’ll be glad you did.

Revealed The Mystery Plane: Uncovering The Story behind The Photo (3)

We had a tremendous response to The Mystery Plane cover photo on our first issue – thanks to all who wrote to us and we unveil the mystery behind the photo here for you (page opposite) to enjoy. This issue we are joined by Jelila, who has a spiritual healer’s view on living on this island. Martin Jenkins has contributed a satirical piece about retiring in Bali and we visit the East Bali Poverty Project up in the slopes of Gunung Agung with David E. Parry to discover some amazing improvements made to the lives of so many who were living in poverty. This issue I thought that we could travel to another island in Indonesia, Kalimantan, to visit the orangutans in Camp Leakey with Stephanie Brooks. You may also be wondering who the handsome young chap on the cover is - turn to Meet the Expats to find out – this dude has had quite the life. We hope you’re enjoying BALI EXPAT so far and if you want to write or are interested in advertising with us, do get in touch!

Diving Embraced by Bali (8)

Satire Retirement in Paradise (4) Travel Orangutans in Camp Leakey, Kalimantan (5) Art of the Indies Miguel Covarrubias' Visual Notes (6)

Meet the Expat Meet Leonard Lueras (9) Charities The East Bali Poverty Project (10) Living Art The Legend of Kebo Iwa (11) Light Entertainment Motorbikes, Mates and Memorable Moments (12) Events (14) Classifieds (15)

Spotted Pic

Sing ken ken everyone.

Spotted by Bart in Kuta

Send in your Spotted Pics to info@baliexpat.biz!

Subscription info@baliexpat.biz Events events@baliexpat.biz Bali Expat is published bi-weekly by PT. Koleksi Klasik. Opinions expressed in this publication are those of the writers and the publisher does not accept any responsibility for any errors, ommisions, or complaints arising there from.

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Bali Expat­­ · ­20 June - 3 July 2012

Revealed

THE MYSTERY PLANE

Uncovering The Story behind The Photo Our first issue cover photo was the somewhat controversial photo of a German plane somewhere in Bali and we asked you, the readers, to send us information regarding the origins and background story of this photograph.

Thank you to all who responded and we can now tell you that this photo was taken in 1938 by the famous artist, Theo Meier and here is a detailed background kindly sent to us by Mark Winkel.

This plane was the second prototype of an Arado 79, a two-person aero-sport trainer built in 1937 and flown on a record-setting Germany to Australia journey that travelled through the Netherlands East Indies. The photo was probably taken sometime between 7-15 January, 1938 and the women in the photo will probably be around 75-80 years old now.

After comparing the plane’s shape (especially the unusual cockpit canopy and the shape of the tail fin) with all known aircraft in the Luftwaffe (which prior to 1939 was civilian and post39 was military, but it used the same markings, including the swastika on the tail rudder), it was clear that the aircraft was not a combat aircraft – too small and no weaponry on it. So I thought it might be a reconnaissance or trainer aircraft.

It turns out that the Germans as well as many other developed countries were using the technological advances (some of them spurred by World War I) of the 1920s to demonstrate their power and prowess. Interestingly, aviation was a very competitive industrial endeavour, with countries such as Italy, France, Great Britain, and the US striving to show off the superiority of their airplanes and therefore their country. So the 1930s saw many aviation competitions featuring attempts to set this altitude record, that distance record – think of Charles Lindbergh and then Amelia Earhart and their solo efforts using American aircraft.

The Germans were also proud of their engineering and manufacturing prowess (think automobiles) and some dozen aviation designers were out there trying to build the next best aircraft. Of course, this was all disguised as “sport” as suggested by the numerous “sport flying” clubs across the country, but really the Nazis were encouraging the next generation of military hardware.

The Arado company had had some success with light aircraft and, with all the interest in flying, the market was really about building training aircraft to produce more pilots and sports aircraft.

Building military aircraft would come later; in any case, the Treaty of Versailles prevented Germany from developing a military air force, but “civilian” aircraft were no problem (I’m digressing).

The owners of Arado felt they needed to push into the big leagues, so someone came up with the idea of a next generation plane that could set a distance record (previous Arados having set altitude and other records).

The Arado 79 was that aircraft.

With its distinctive undercurved tail fin, it fits easily and clearly into the Arado family. The wide canopy (it actually seats two pilots side-by-side – necessary for long-distance/endurance flights) with an ungainly boxy nose gives the Arado 79 a pretty distinctive silhouette, so it was a matter of combing through the Arado photo galleries to identify the plane in your photo as the Arado 79.

There is a prominent registration number on the fuselage. Researching the numbering system used, I found out that ALL German planes had a “D” (for Deutschland) followed by a fourletter code.

It turns out that those Balinese babes (the plane was a real chick-magnet) lounged over the fuselage didn’t quite obscure the lettering. It’s possible to make out a few of the letters and after several guesses based on the style of the font used, what the letters could have been I discovered that we are looking at a code of D-E+H+(C or G or O or Q)+R. It turns out that the registration logs of INDIVIDUAL pre-War Germany aircraft – listed alphabetically by registration code and aircraft type -- have been found and a digital version put online.

With the first three letters already established, it was relatively easy to run down the list and find the only combination that was applied to an Arado 79: D-EHCR, which is listed as the second prototype of the Arado 79, of which 49 were produced in total, starting in 1938.

The first prototype (Arado 79A V1 with code D-EKCX) is also of interest because of various aero-sport events (long-distance) it participated in and won. Those successes encouraged the manufacturer to attempt a Brandenberg-Sydney-Berlin route with the intent of setting some sort of record to validate the superiority of Arado as an airplane manufacturer (or at least designer) and of the Third Reich.

To that end, the route to Sydney was quite interesting. As a single engine two-seater, the Arado 79A had a flying range of about 1000km.

However, to enable the D-EHCR to set the kind of distance records it was intended to achieve on the Berlin-Sydney trip, it was equipped with external fuel tanks to extend its range. The ultimate leap was a 6,000km stretch from Benghazi to Gaya that set the world record for longest non-stop flight by an airplane.

Even so, in terms of logistics, that meant having fuel dumps (let alone airstrips and preferably mechanics with spare parts) at minimum distances. You will note that the route generally passes through Axis or neutral countries, including Thailand, where the German community turned out for a big publicity splash.

The plane appears to have flown Medan, Batavia and Surabaya before landing in Bali and it is possible that the photo was taken up in Buleleng. There was (and still is) a landing strip up there that is actually closer to Gilimanuk than to Singaraja. I have not been able to discover records of any other air strips in Bali, although it would not surprise me – Java and Sumatra (to my knowledge) had dozens of other air strips that were used pre-war and during war-time that are long forgotten/overgrown.

POST BALI After reaching Sydney, the pilots came back up through Netherlands East Indies – Sulawesi, Borneo, Balikpapan before returning to Surabaya and then back to Bangkok.

DEMISE OF D-EHCR The return flight ended tragically when Pulkowski had a bird strike with a large bird of prey whilst demonstrating the aircraft in India.

Jennett must have made some other return arrangements, he became the Commander of Fliegergeschwader z b V 7 supporting the SS in anti partisan operations flying He 60’s FW189s and Ar 95s, he survived the war, rose to Major General in the new German Air Force and died in 1998. (Wikipedia) ■ Mark Winkel (mark@prismapr.co.id)

“The photograph taken in Bali on your front page is the Plane (Dornier) which two German aviators made a round the world trip via Australia in 1935. I read a story in Sydney regarding this event in which these two aviators crashed on the West Australian Coast and found after a couple of months search, close to death, but survived and went back to Germany. This is a well know story in Australian history, but as usual for that period anything that happen in the Nazi period was not regarded as news, therefore the historic facts of this flight where suppressed for political gains! I have forgotten the pilots’ names, but surely there are facts to be found of these aviators who were marooned and close to death and made it back from the Kimberly coast! Hope I have informed you a little!”

—Harry (now in Bali, ex Sydney) “I don’t think you will learn something new about the mystery plane, but I like the idea anyway…. I think his photo was taken by the Swiss artist painter “ Theo Meier” on the 14th of January, 1938 (or 1939) but since the pilot died on the 10th of February 1938, I deducted it should rather be 1938. The pilot’s name was Obersturmfuhrer Pulkowski.”

—Jean-Paul Nacivet (living between France and Bali) “I have been speaking with a former German air force pilot about the picture on the front page of Bali Expat. He offered the following: The plane is NOT an air force plane—it is a private or commercial German plane. If it were air force—it would have an Iron Cross displayed as well as the Swastika.

This narrows the period down considerably when the plane would have landed in Bali. The period can only be between 1936—and 1944 (possibly early 1945—but unlikely) - the period this type of marking was used. It would have been extremely difficult to fly this far, given distance/refuelling capabilities during the Second World War - so this photo is likely to have been taken between 1936—and before September 1939. Apparently the Swastika was not used as airplane markings in Germany prior to 1936.”

—Peter Noble (Byron Bay,Australia) Unfortunately we weren't able to print all your letters, but we really loved hearing from you and appreciate your letters! ■

NOTE FROM THE TEAM BALI EXPAT would like to state that we does not in any way affiliate ourselves with real, radical political organizations and do not embrace the philosophies and actions of the original NSDAP (Nazi party). This photograph was merely a mysterious and interesting historical image taken in Bali which we came across and wanted to know more about and our intention was definitely not to offend any of our readers.

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20 June - 3 July 2012 · Bali Expat­­­

Satire

FACT:

of Brits Haven't Saved Enough to Retire Comfortably!

Retiring in Indonesia. JEAN CHAMEL.

Retirement in Paradise

by Martin Jenkins

But far away in more balmy climes lies an island paradise where you can retire like a king on as little as US$1,500/month. Bali!

WAVE THE RECESSION GOODBYE It's the place which thousands of Western retirees have already made home.

It’s the place where Mick Jagger and David Bowie maintain secret villas.

And it’s the place where Julia Roberts came to “discover” herself in the filming of the international best-selling novel ‘Eat Pray Love’.

Forget “rip-off” England where the good life is only for the rich and famous because here in Bali, the average monthly pension can adequately fund not only the essentials but ALSO “luxuries” like a house keeper, regular dinners out, tickets for vibrant cultural performances (dance, music, etc.), travel — all on a vibrant paradise island where lush rice paddies surround spectacular volcanoes.

And that’s saying nothing of the magical sandy beaches!

Forbes declares, "The true paradise."

Not forgetting of course that the balmy tropical weather is free!

"The most we've paid for a meal here was about Rp.180,000 (US$20) for a huge steak with salad and three jumbo prawns on top," Susan beams.

"Once we did the maths we realized that if we retired in the UK, we'd have to move to some desolate little hole on the coast living in a caravan with only the ice-cold North Sea winds for company,” says Ben only half joking.

For Susan, life hasn’t been better.

She’s out on her boogie board when the surf is up and she has a deeper tan than your average Hollywood celeb living the dream in California.

Her free time is spent reading, cycling, doing yoga, feeding the monkeys, painting, swimming….

The Indonesia Telegraph says this place is a "smart choice for retirees who want it all."

Business Asia dubbed Bali "the New Hawaii."

For Rp.130,000 (US$15) a month, you'll have wireless internet.

A live-in housekeeper will cost you no more than Rp.1,000,000 (US$110) a month. A lunch out can be as cheap as Rp.30,000 (US$3) and a kilo of tropical fruits will cost you less than one piece of the same tropical fruit back in Old Blighty!

LOW OVERHEADS, TROPICAL STYLE Take Ben and Susan Russel. They rent a condo on the beach in Kuta, South Bali for only US$600 a month — two steps past the pool and you're on golden sands!

They report: Their cost of living has sunk by about 70%.

"It just may be the most viable retirement solution for the 21st century."

In other words, in this island paradise you can live it up, tropical style with very low overheads.

THE PRACTICALITIES 1

2

3

Despite what anyone may tell you, foreigners absolutely CANNOT own property legally in Bali (or anywhere in Indonesia for that matter). So you must rent. Renting is, however, a blessing in disguise in my view because it gives you the flexibility to easily move later on. And if you find the area isn’t really for you or there is an emergency back home, you’ll really be glad you rented.

The way to fund the rent is by renting out your place back home. If you play your cards right, your rental income from home should far exceed your rent in Bali. The difference can be used to supplement your monthly pension allowing you to hopefully live like a King!

The Visa. Bureaucracy can be a nightmare in Indonesia, so use an agent to sort out your retirement visa. You should be eligible if: a) you have sufficient cash funds, b) you are not a well-known criminal, and c) you are aged 55 or over.

The cost of the visa is high, but that’s the price of living in proverbial paradise.

Sample living costs. The cost of living in Bali is much less than in the UK. Of course you can blow money very easily in Bali by eating out at expensive restaurants but that’s also true anywhere in the world!

“Well. F*** that for a laugh. And so Bali it was.”

SAMPLE MONTHLY BUDGET FOR A COUPLE IN BALI (SOUTH BALI OR UBUD AREA) * on 2-bedroom beachside apartment or house in a village * Utilities with moderate A/C use (electricity, gas, water) * Maid * Visa costs (amortized) * Supermarket Items (food and household items) * Maintenance and fuel for one small car (cheaper is to get a motorcycle) * Entertainment for two * Communications (phone, Internet, Satellite TV) GRAND TOTAL (for a couple)

IN USD $200 to $1,500 and up $100 $100 $200 $300 $200 $300 $100 $1,500 to $2,800

MARTIN JENKINS Martin comes from England but has spent most of his adult life abroad. Wary investor, keen traveller, writer also.

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Bali Expat­­ · ­20 June - 3 July 2012

Travel

Orangutans in Camp Leakey, Kalimantan

by Stephanie Brookes

“Quick,

come see, it’s a wild one and it’s a male,” exclaimed Nanang, our guide. “This is quite unusual to see. Wake up, wake up.” I struggled from my tented bed on the upper deck of the boat and fought my way through the mosquito netting. My eyes adjusted to the early morning light and I stood in awe of the sight before me. There he was, a huge longhaired red orangutan, perched in the top canopy of the rainforest. He stood before us, with arms outstretched to their full potential and claimed his view for the day. He was king and he knew it.

We were in the vicinity of Camp Leakey in the Tanjung Putting National Park, West Kalimantan. We had docked overnight in our traditional Indonesian wooden houseboat (klotok) before encountering this large human like beast. Orangutans are the largest tree dwelling animal in the world. They live a semi-solitary existence, unlike their cousins in Africa, the great African apes. The males are very territorial and claim about a 7km square area as their own.

Within their domain lies their harem of females and their offspring. The males often fight for territorial dominance and, with their huge padded cheeks and 12-foot stature; they are beasts of great power and force.

Camp Leakey is a rehabilitation centre for orangutans rescued from captivity and it is here that they are taught to live in their natural forest environment. Once resettled they join the wild population and fend for themselves in the jungle. Nowhere on earth can one see such a concentration of orangutans.

Borneo (Kalimantan) is one of the world’s last wild places. Much of the island is covered by tropical rainforest and the Tanjung Putting National Park protects not only the orangutan but also many other species of primates, crocodiles, snakes, sun bear, clouded leopard, bats and many wetland species of birds. One can visit Camp Leakey and Pondok Tanggui early in the morning and late in the afternoon at feeding times, waiting for the orangutan to come voluntarily from the jungle to feed on bananas and seasonal fruit, which are placed on a feeding platform. Mothers arrive crashing through the trees with their babies straddled piggy-style on their backs. Some approach walking up the very trail you have used to get the “free food” and with the rangers and guides bellowing with their perfect impersonations of an orangutan call, you soon find yourself surrounded by these great but gentle creatures of nature.

The boat ride to enter Tanjung Putting Reserve is an adventure in itself. Travel is by slow moving klotok along the Sekonyer River and as you get closer the water turns jet-black in colour. This is caused by tannin in the river. As the river narrows you cruise past nipa palm fringed banks and it is not unusual to spot one or two estuarine swamp crocodiles. Along the way, in fact only 30 minutes into the trip, a family of proboscis monkeys treated us to a spectacle of acrobatics. With their 6-inch long noses and their love of the riverbank, they are a constant source of entertainment. The proboscis monkeys appear to take flight momentarily as they propel themselves with great agility and leap across huge gaps in the trees and somehow cling to the next outstretched (flimsy) branch. It is also common to see a mother with her baby tucked away under one arm.

With crocodiles lurking in the waters there is definitely no swimming on this river trip, however the crew of our boat managed to rig up a temporary outdoor shower and, with the aid of a generator, this provided all the relief we needed from the very humid conditions. Showering is one human activity orangutans like to imitate and one particular female “Princess”, met

us on the jetty. She had already lathered up with shampoo and was ready to join in. Apparently, in previous times it was possible to shower with Princess but nowadays she is a little aggressive and we were advised to keep a safe distance.

The return trip from Jakarta to Camp Leaky, Kalimantan takes only three days. Within 20 minutes of arrival at Pangkalan Bun airport you are transported to your awaiting klotok and enter a world of rainforest delights.

For any nature lover, this trip offers something totally unique as orangutans can only be seen in their natural environment in two places in the world —the other being Sumatra. You will journey on the tranquil waters of the Sekonyer River travel at an easy pace and slide into the rhythms of the rainforest.

Accompanied by the sounds of nature, bird life and animals of the jungle you will find the journey holds just as much intrigue as the destination. ■ HOW TO GET THERE Direct flights from Jakarta, Semarang or Surabaya to Pangkalan Bun, Kalimantan with Trigana Air Service. Connecting services from Bali, Yogyakarta and other starting points can be organised with Trigana Air Service or Kalstar Aviation.

HOW TO BOOK www.visitorangutan.com

BEST ROUTE FROM BALI Take a flight from Denpasar to Surabaya and connect with a daily service with Trigana Air from Surabaya to Pangkalan Bun. Or take a flight from Denpasar to Jakarta and connect with Trigana Air to Pangkalan Bun.

MORE ABOUT ORANGUTANS Orangutans are an endangered species.

It is estimated that they will face extinction in 2020. ◆ There are two species of orangutan: Pongo Abelii (Sumatra) and Pongo Pygmaeus (Kalimantan). The total number of orangutans in Tanjung Putting, Kalimantan is estimated at around 5,000 and in Sumatra 7,000. ◆ Adult male orangutans weigh 100 kg or more. Adult females are much smaller (average 35–50kg). ◆ Orangutans spend approximately 60% of their time eating. They consume around 400 types of food including fruits, leaves, flowers, bark & insects. ◆ Threats to the orangutan include deforestation due to clearing land for cultivation, illegal logging, forest fires, flash floods and poachers. ◆ Female orangutans care for their infants for six years and are extremely protective of their babies. Poachers must kill the mother to take the baby.

Baby orangutans are then sold illegally as pets. ◆ Female orangutans do not become sexually mature until the age of 15 and usually only reproduce once every seven years. This is the longest birth interval of any mammal. The female will usually have no more than three offspring during her lifetime. ◆ Menstruating women should be careful around ex-captive orangutans, especially adult males. It is wise for women to avoid Camp Leakey at this time.

STEPHANIE BROOKES Stephanie is a global adventurous soul and her travels have taken her from Montana to Moscow and extensively through Asia. She lives between Jakarta and Brisbane and has over 30 articles published on Indonesian culture, ethnic diversity and travel hot spots. She has even been known to don a cone hat and work in the rice fields just to get a story. www.travelwriter.ws

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20 June - 3 July 2012 · Bali Expat­­­

Art of the Indies

Miguel Covarrubias’ Visual Notes

by Adriana Williams

M

iguel Covarrubias’ father was a Sunday painter. As a very young child, Miguel liked to sit by his father, watching him work. This happened nearly every weekend. Noticing his interest, his father gave the little boy paper and pencil. Miguel now happily occupied himself making pictures.

As he grew, the sketches were calling attention to his burgeoning facility to draw. By the time he was fourteen years old and in high school, he was making caricatures of the teachers to the amusement of his classmates.

From then on, wherever Covarrubias went, he carried with him a pencil and sketch pad at the ready to put to paper someone or something that caught his attention. In the evenings, he liked going to vaudeville revues and, later, to the cafés where Mexico City’s intellectuals and artists gathered.

Covarrubias is remembered from that period as a shy, chubby boy sitting in a corner always busy drawing. He was given the affectionate nickname of “El Chamaco”, “The Kid”, a pet name that would stay with him for the rest of his life. Some of the caricatures he made of already well-known artists, such as Diego Rivera or the visiting writer, D.H. Lawrence, ended up pinned to the walls of “EL Monote”, one

of the cafes. Soon he was asked to contribute caricature Mexico City’s fashionable magazines and to student publications, including the popular art journal Zig-Zag. By the time he was eighteen, Covarrubias found himself in New York City and was soon making caricatures of personalities from the art and entertainment world, and celebrities from the political and social worlds. He also became an important contributor to the Harlem Renaissance movement. Alan Fern, a former director of the Portrait Gallery at the Smithsonian Institute in Washington, D.C. wrote, <Covarrubias> “seems to us the quintessential commentator of American life in the 1920s and”.i

better advantage in the art of Covarrubias than through written criticism of their work.”iv

Al Hirschfield, who shared a studio with Miguel in the twenties commented, “I know he use to diddle a lot and sketch on tablecloths and menus in restaurants…. ii In Harlem he made hundreds of sketches in a sketchbook and, when there were no longer any blank sheets, on match boxes, on napkins, and on anything else he could find.”iii After the publication of Covarrubias’ first book in 1925, The Prince of Wales and Other Americans, his mentor Carl Van Vechten marvelled, “I have always held it as an axiom that a caricaturist should know his subject for ten years before he sat down to draw him…. <But

Later that year, Van Vechten once again made a similar observation in his novel, Firecrackers, which he dedicated to MC. In the book, a character muses about “a young Mexican boy, Miguel Covarrubias, who created caricatures of celebrities who he knew only by sight and name, which exposed the whole secret of the subject’s personalities. Here was clairvoyance.”v Covarrubias> has relieved me of that superstition. Ten minutes with any of them was all he required. The result was not superficial… <The subjects> are all set down so vividly that posterity might study them to

Beginning in 1926, Covarrubias began illustrating books. As he read the text he would start sketching and, in the end, choose the most fitting images. Some of the drawings were repeated as many as fifteen times in a patient experimentation to find the right

approach and technique.

Covarrubias book, Negro Drawings was published two years later. In his preface to the book, the caricaturist, Ralph Barton attested “Covarrubias’s drawings…need merely to be looked at to be understood. To draw as Covarrubias draws, one has only to be born with a taste for understanding everything. As we look at the drawings we are aware that they bear the stamp of genius.”vi After its publication, the Encyclopedia Britannica listed him among the “wonders” of black-and-white artists.vii In 1928, the Valentine Gallery in New York City gave Covarrubias his first exhibition. The catalogue stated, “The simplification that is such an important element in the Covarrubias drawings is seldom attained. He begins a picture after

7

Bali Expat­­ · ­20 June - 3 July 2012

Art of the Indies

the creative process of his manner of working. Wherever he was, he recorded people and events for later use. These sketches show his keen powers of observation and his intellectual curiosity and his faithfulness and artistic understanding of his subjects.

no more than the most summary of thumbnail sketches, but he is willing to draw and redraw until his acute sense of pictorial rightness is satisfied. The final result is usually deceptively simple. It has a look of immediate and spontaneous creation.”viii Covarrubias married Rosa Rolanda in 1930. For their honeymoon they travelled by ship to China and on to Bali.

Covarrubias threw himself into Balinese life. Everything he witnessed was recorded in sketches. The result of his two sojourns in Bali was his book, Island of Bali, published in 1937.

Many of the subjects in the book are illustrated by a summary sketches.

Covarrubias became a passionate anthropological researcher. He immersed himself in the arts and culture of primitive cultures. His manner of sorting out ideas and the way of his understanding a culture was through the use of drawing. As a teacher, his

students remember him with the always present pens in his coat pocket and a notebook to make sketches. In the classroom to illustrate what he was describing, Covarrubias would simply turn to the blackboard and draw. “It goes something like this….”ix The same was true for his archaeological research. The Mexican archaeologist Alfonso Caso stated, “He gave to archaeology something that it lacked….and that was an aesthetic perception of form, always correct.”x The archaeologist, Michael Coe stated, “I learned much from his drawings.”xi The group of Bali and Chinese sketches in this exhibition executed by Miguel Covarrubias in the early thirties is a window into

Many of these preliminary drawings were the first step prior to developing into refined line or wash drawings or studies in colour. Good examples from the Bali sketches are the corresponding final works “Food Stall”, “Every Night is Festival Night”, “Brahmin Priest or Pendanda” and “Princess and Attendant” (A scene from the Ardja, Balinese Opera).

These works can be viewed in Covarrubias in Bali published by Editions Didier Millet. From the Chinese sketches, there are several enhanced drawings for Marc Chadourne’s book China and a gouache for the jacket of Albert Gervais book Madame Flowery Sentiment in 1937.

Miguel Covarrubias began his career as a caricaturist and graphic artist. Whether he was

working on a caricature, a book illustration, teaching a course, designing a map or sets for a ballet, studying a culture or solving an archaeological mystery, he always sketched.

The sketches in this exhibition are examples of the way he worked and are art objects in their own right. Rubin de la Borbollas said, “Perhaps one of the most profound lessons to be learned from Covarrubias was there is no aspect, however abstract it may be, of human knowledge or nature that surrounds man which cannot have and should not have a graphic interpretation.”xii ■

i. Miguel Covarrubias Caricatures, National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institute, Washington, D.C. 1985, p.12 ii. Ibid. p.20 iii. Hirschfeld, Al, Interview with Adriana Williams, New York City, 1985. iv. Van Vechten, Carl, The Reviewer, Vol.4, 1923–4, (New York: Johnson Reprint Company, 1967): 103. v. Van Vechten, Carl, Firecrackers, (New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1925):127–128. vi. Barton, Ralph, Preface to Negro Drawings

by Miguel Covarrubias, (New York, Alfred A. Knopf, 1927). vii. British Encyclopedia Britannica, 2oth edition, s.v. “Caricature”. viii. Valentine Gallery Catalogue: (New York City, 1928). ix. Romano, Arturo, (Mexican archeologist): Interview with Adriana Williams, Mexico City, July 1987. x. Caso, Alfonso, Interview with Elena Poniatoska, Novedades, Mexico City, May 1957. xi. Coe, Michael, (American archeologist) Telephone interview with Adriana Williams, November 1991. xii. Rubín de la Borbollla, Boletín Bibliográfica de Antropología Americana, (Mexico City: Instituto de Geografía e Historía), p.138.

ADRIANA WILLIAMS Adriana is an author based in Bali who wrote the books “Covarrubias” and “Covarrubias in Bali”. Adriana Williams and Bruce Carpenter are the co-authors of a new book Miguel Covarrubias, Sketches - Bali Shanghai that will be launched along with an exhibition of original sketches and paintings at the ARMA Museum in Ubud, Bali, 6.3pm, Sunday, July 8 th.

8

20 June - 3 July 2012 · Bali Expat­­­

Healing 1

2

3

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by Jelila

In

mask-like face make-up and brightly coloured costume with the swingy cape and gold crown of a king—a young guy swings his leg over the seat of his motorbike and roars through the night with a flourish. In Milano’s salon, Paris shyly sports a shortie paisley apron over orange striped shirt as he carefully adds perfect colour and shape to my hair.

‘It’s a painting’ he smiles. ‘Many colours make the light move’. Nearby, girls perch precariously stacked offerings of fruit effortlessly on their heads, bearing the essence of goodness to temple above their elegantly swaying hips. In cafés, a mélange of global travellers, visitors, and expats mingle to share experiences, creations, purchases, spiritual discoveries and vision.

This pageant is just a tiny taste of the melting pot of Ubud, and Bali—a place where creativity is prized, playfulness is normal, colour is riotous, feelings are expressed, healing energies pervade, spirituality flowers, and smiles abound.

What I love, is that under this stylish street pageant is a deep vein of serious and passionate commitment—to craft, to beauty, and to spirituality—which is natural in Ubud, whose very name means ‘medicine’—the town being located on a swirling energy vortex generated where two sacred rivers meet.

The Balinese in Ubud focus for years perfecting their art-form—dance, painting, woodcarving, stone-carving, silversmithing, healing—perfecting the habit of continual attention to detail, finicky precision and persistence in completing and making something of beauty, which is something I admire and which fills me with joy —inspiring many visiting ex-pats who bring international design morés and the celebration of spirituality into a magnificent hotch-potch!

I love to see the results—beauty everywhere —flowered curliques on a carved door, a whimsical giant stone Cheshire cat in the spa as tall as myself, pathways delicately picked out with natural, pale turquoise pebbles from nearby Flores island—and nature—beautiful scented flowers—

Ubud—a place where creativity is prized, playfulness is normal, colour is riotous, feelings are expressed, healing energies pervade, spirituality flowers, and smiles abound. orchids, exotic Ylang Ylang and the sweetly frangrant frangipani weaving in between, wafting their scent!

The love of craft permeated my senses, and touched me, when I arrived—like a flower, my natural gift for healing with crystals and colour and light suddenly unfurled —and, like the Balinese, I invested time and money in tuition in my craft—and when I was gifted by a teacher with a new way of healing, a new technique to reach and release deep emotional blocks easy as shucking peas—I grabbed it, and burrowed into my own craft—deeply exploring and healing ancient belief patterns… and as people came, from all over the world, to work with me and be the clay that I would help to mould, like the many international healers and local ‘balians’ (spirit healers) here, I became a craftsman of healing… helping people weave their way through sub-conscious patterns and thoughts, release them, and design a new more positive truth that would help them live their lives in an easier, happier way.

One client brought his baby to me— the fruit of the happy relationship that he said I helped him sow. And another was grateful for the two-fold increase in productivity in his factory that he was delighted I helped him realise.

My Balinese ex-mother in law melds crystal colours and shapes brilliantly for me, interpreting my original design in wonderful ways, using the rainbow boxes of crystals I have supplied her with—making the ‘Yoga Chord’ that yoginis in Ubud wear to assist their meditation and yoga practice and balance their chakras.

JELILA Jelila is a top international healer who offers personal transformation journeys in Bali and Online that guide you to experience the magical transformational energy and playfulness of Bali for yourself. Words and Images © Jelila 2012. All Rights Reserved. http://www.jelila.com | http://www.jelila.wordpress.com

Ubud is the perfect place for healing—many people are weaving and crafting their ideals —and re-inventing themselves spiritually— in Ubud and Bali—witness the fabulous eateries, the evolution of raw food, the yoga and dance, the many spiritual practitioners and healers (Balinese and international) and art—that is the most appealing tapestry —it is really a glorious multi-coloured mingling of East and West! ■

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT 1. Jelila joining the caste in Bali, 2. Healing in Bali - Crystal Healing with Jelila, 3.

Meditation at a beautiful Bali beach with the chakra—harmonising Yoga Chord crystals, 4. among the flowers… Healing and Meditation journeys in Ubud with Jelila.

9

Bali Expat­­ · ­20 June - 3 July 2012

Meet the Expat

MEET LEONARD LUERAS

by Angela Richardson

Aloha Leonard! Can you firstly tell me where you’re from?

I was born into a hispanic-latino family in the very old American city of Albuquerque, Nuevo Mejico (New Mexico) in the United States of America but in later years I lived a lot of my childhood and early teens in California and Hawaii. I attended and graduated from a small private university in San Diego, California, but the longest part of my American life—about 23 years —was spent living and working in the State of Hawaii. For most of those years I was a reporter for The Honolulu Advertiser, the major newspaper in Hawaii (and the oldest American newspaper west of the American Rocky Mountains).

How long have you been living on Bali and how did you wash up on these shores?

I first came to Bali during the late summer of 1970. At that time I was an avid surfer and so I came to this island to look for what I had been told were quite good surfing waves.

Just before coming here—then by Pan American Airways and Thai International flights (from Saigon to Bangkok and Jakarta)—and later overland by train and bus to Jogjakarta and Surabaya to Bali—I had been temporarily based in Saigon in South Vietnam as a war reporter for my Honolulu newspaper which had established one of the earliest Vietnam War news bureaus in Saigon. After writing and photographing war in Vietnam for a while I had time for a break/ holiday so (based on friends’ tips) I flew to Bali with a surfboard to check out waveriding conditions here. Once I got here I did indeed find—on this then remote and little-visited island—a lot of really good surfing situations and a remarkably alive and living culture.

At that time I quickly became quite fond of the island of Bali, so during later years I would return to Bali every time I had a chance to breakaway from Hawaii and other places to hang out in “Gods’ Country”.

It was always fun to be here as a visitor/tourist, but a really great break came in late 1983/early 1984 when a Singapore-based publishing house called Times Editions commissioned me to write a book about the island of Bali. That “coffee table book” —Bali, The Ultimate Island—is still in print but in the initial stages of writing it this writing project not only allowed me to move to Bali, and to actually make a living while being here, but, more importantly, it paid for me to spend more than a year-and-a-half working on a beautiful and exotic island which already had me in its spell.

Your villa compound here in Sanur is beautiful and I hear you have a wellknown photographer moving into the neighbourhood—how did that come about?

Thanks for the kampung compliment. Yes, our compound is a beautiful place—located in an

area of Sanur that used to be a bit desolate and non-inhabited by foreigners. These days, however, our neighbourhood has become a very trendy area populated by many trendy people who live in eccentric villas. Our particular compound— Taman Mertasari—includes me and two other publishers (one English, one French), a garment designer/producer (American), me (yet another American) and, yes, an internationally-renowned photographer. The photographer, who just recently joined our compound, is a longtime friend named Sebastiao Salgado. He is a remarkable Brazilian gentleman who is based in Paris and we are delighted to have him, his eyes, and his wife Lelia as new members of Taman Mertasari.

You’re known (among other things) for being a writer, photographer and a publisher—which of these three do you want people to know you best for and why?

Probably the best way to describe me would be to call me a “media freak”, but the description I most prefer for myself is to be referred to as a “newspaperman”. My early career training and subsequent life’s work was largely spent in “good old days” newspapering when covering news for a daily newspaper was probably the most fun and interesting job in the world. That profession took me all over Hawaii and the world for many fascinating years but I had to give up my roving journalistic career in the early 1980s when I became a single parent and had to devote a large amount of my time to raising two children by myself. It was at that time that I began seriously writing books instead of filing day-to-day correspondent dispatches.

You’re quite the dude and the shades are a part of your persona—has this always been the case?

What brand do you wear?

I have always said that you can never have too many pairs of sunglasses, baseball caps or cool tropical shirts—and especially so in the tropics.

As my Hawaiian friends used to say, “I wanna be comfortable, not hot, brah”. I’ve liked all sorts of sunglasses over the years, but in recent years I have become a devoted Oakley sunglasses fan (something to do with the look and lenses).

Where did your love for photography stem from?

I have been quite avidly involved in photography since high school days in California, but photography later became a very important part of my life once I started working as an international newspaper correspondent in the early 1970s. In

those days it was rare that a newspaper could afford to send both a reporter and a photographer on an assignment together so I would have to personally take photographs to accompany my writings. I didn’t mind doing that, though, because I have always enjoyed shooting pictures. I find writing to be hard and disciplined work but photography has always been for me a pleasant diversion and a form of visual meditation.

What’s been the most memorable photo you’ve taken in Bali?

Wow, that’s a difficult question to answer because Bali is so rich in imagery, whether regarding people, places or things. But some of the most arresting images I recall shooting are scenes at grand Balinese ceremonies back in the 1970s and early 1980s. Then there was still a feeling of “Old Bali” that I don’t see too often these days.

What camera do you work with these days?

In the good old film days I mostly used Leica rangefinder cameras, but these days —given “the digital revolution” and the recent “death of film” —I use Canon digital cameras. I am particularly fond of a small Canon digital camera I have called the G-10.

What’s your latest published work?

Yikes, during the past year-and-a-half I have released three new books—one a limited edition book about U.S. President Barack Obama’s childhood in Indonesia and Hawaii, one about Batam and the Riau Islands, and another about those spacey Balinese “Day of Silence” effigies called ogoh-ogoh. The ogoh-ogoh book is one of the largest “coffee table books” ever produced about a Balinese subject and is filled with a lot of stunning and lurid images of ogoh-ogoh taken by some 33 Balinese and foreign photographers.

Can you tell me a bit about the Obama album you created especially for President Obama’s visit to Indonesia last year? And why were you asked to make that?

That book, made for the Obama family (Barack, Michelle, Malia and Sasha Obama), was commissioned by President Obama’s Javanese relatives in Indonesia. They wanted to do something very personal and special to honour the occasion of Obama’s first formal State Visit to Indonesia. Being an American and mostly from Hawaii (Obama’s birthplace, and the birthplace of my two children) I was pleased and proud to do something like that

for my remarkable president. This limited edition album-book includes very rare and never before published photographs of Obama as a young child in Indonesia and Hawaii, and recently the U.S. Library of Congress even procured a copy to place into their rare books collection.

You have a very unique car—can you tell me more about it? What inspired you to modify it with wood? And what do people’s expressions say as you drive by them in it?

My car is a 1970 long wheel-base Land Rover that has been painted English pillar box red and has been beautifully trimmed by Indonesian carpenters-craftsmen with local teak wood. It is what 1960s surfers used to call a “woodie”, meaning a vintage vehicle trimmed in wood. I have driven it three times from Bali to Jakarta and back and people really seem to like it because they always want to take photographs of it and are always asking me if I would like to sell it to them.

I have a lot of fun with this car and it (“The Red Rover”) has become more of a friend to me than my car.

Sounds like a lot of fun. So as an expat who’s lived in Bali for a while now, how do you feel about the rapid changes that are happening on the island in terms of development?

Some things are for the better and some things are for the worse. The first few times I came to Bali there was no electricity, no telephones and mostly funky pot-holed roads. There were also very few places where you could get a decent meal, but despite those drawbacks Bali was extremely charming. I miss those days—when you could enjoy a meal of two lobsters in Kuta for about one dollar—but I also enjoy many of the things that “progress” has brought to the island. “Progress” can be a drag but it is also fun these days to have Internet access and to have international newspapers and croissants delivered to my home in the morning.

What can expats and visitors do on the island to live harmoniously with its culture, its people and its nature?

Do what you can do to preserve the environment and Bali’s amazing living culture. Modern Bali things like traffic, plastic and advertising billboards are becoming really boring, so do what you can to influence local people to expunge and avoid these things.

If you had to be stranded on a deserted island for a month, what three things would you bring with you and why?

I would bring a lot of beer, a hot Javanese woman I love, and all of the books I’ve been wanting to read (but have not yet read).

Great answer. And what has been your greatest achievement to date?

My greatest achievement in life has been to raise two beautiful and loving children (a son, Lorca, and a daughter, Asia) by myself.

And finally, what three words best sum up your personality, Leonard?

Love, truth, beauty.

Thank you Leonard! If you’d like to get in touch with the dude, email him at leonardinbali@gmail. com. ■

10

20 June - 3 July 2012 · Bali Expat­­­

Charities

The East Bali Poverty Project

by David E. Parry

W

hen writing about aid projects words like ‘uplifting’, ‘inspirational’ or ‘downright bloody fantastic’ rarely, if ever, enter the vocabulary of cynical development consultants. That maxim held true until I visited the East Bali Poverty Project (EBPP) located on the remote and inhospitable northeastern slopes of Mount Agung and Mount Abang in Bali. The project is the brainchild of David Booth MBE, a totally dedicated, multi-talented British engineer who dreamed of providing the basic necessities of life to some of the poorest villagers in the whole archipelago and who, in their mountain fastness, seemed to have been forgotten or ignored by the government.

poverty dominated by serious health issues including probably the highest incidence of goitre in the world (85%), widespread skin diseases such as impetigo, endemic malnutrition and a staggering infant mortality rate of 30% before age one, some ten times the national average.

The origins of the EBPP go back to 1998 when David engaged with the people of Desa Ban, a desperately poor, illiterate community of 15,000 people living in abject poverty in 19 remote sub-villages scattered over 7,200 ha of arid, steep land on Mounts Agung and Abang, the former of which erupted in 1963 covering the area in many metres of ash and destroying the forest and life down from its peak. The only access to the outside world was via steep, narrow mountain footpaths and the generations of isolation, combined with poor soils, precipitous slopes and lack of convenient fresh water sources, had created conditions of appalling

The first item under health was to address the key deficiencies of dietary iodine, vitamins and minerals through an ‘awareness’ education programme supported by a steady regimen of iodized oil capsules, sponsored from 2001-2033 inclusive by UNICEF’s Jakarta office, iodized salt, multivitamin tablets and a daily glass of fortified milk per child to accompany their nutritious daily meal at school.

A system of regular health checks to evaluate and advise on infants’ and children’s nutrition status, provide maternity advice and introduce a regular dentistry programme were also initiated from 2000, but to facilitate these actions, attention had to be paid to providing good access to the villages.

Music Lesson at Daya School

In the beginning the elders of the community prioritized education for their children as a means of providing a better future. But it was clear that no real progress could be made and the children could not respond properly until the basic health issues were dealt with and access to other villages, many perched on the ridges of geologically recent lava flows, and to the outside world were improved.

The project set about upgrading existing mountain walking tracks into mountain roads that could accommodate motorcycles and 4-W-D vehicles. The first road was built to the village of Daya from the saddle between Mount Agung and Mount Abang between November 1999 and March 2000; this provided the first road access in history for

HOW TO HELP http://eastbalipovertyproject.org/how-can-i-help/how-to-donate/ If you make a donation, kindly refer to Bali Expat. All donations will be acknowledged by a formal e-mail receipt and on the EBPP Donor section of Homepage at www.eastbalipovertyproject.org .

Steep, Eroded Section near Jatituhu

By 2011, EBPP had their first three university graduates, returning to their villages to work as teachers and help expand the private primary and secondary education programmes in the area.

thousands of people to leave the village and for supplies and knowledge to come in. This involved the local villagers working together under the traditional ‘Gotong Royong’ system of community self-help, surveying new sections of path and providing the labour for widening the path, preparing the sub-base and laying the twin parallel 60 cm wide, 6 cm deep concrete strips under the supervision of David Booth and small his team of local Balinese volunteers. The roadside verges and adjacent slopes were stabilized with amazing vetiver grass.

The life of the roads so constructed averages up to ten years on straight and gently inclined sections but only about four years on the bends and very steep sections before major repairs are required. In order to prolong the life of the roads, it is planned to use chicken wire and/or woven local bamboo reinforcement materials on such sections in future.

This privately funded integrated and community-based poverty eradication model is now in its 13th year. The results of directing small donations to specifically targeted objectives selected and managed by the communities themselves are quite staggering. Iodine deficiency

and its debilitating effects, goitre and cretinism, have been eradicated; some 800 sanitary rain-water concrete collection tanks each with a 33,000 litre capacity have been built by the local people in schools and villages; piped water has been supplied by gravity feed to many villages from rejuvenated mountain springs; and over 1,000 children have been educated privately in six EBPP hamlet schools from primary through to secondary high school level with a few going onto university. In fact, by 2011, EBPP had their first three university graduates (all young ladies), returning to their villages to work as teachers and help expand the private primary and secondary education programmes in the area since there is still no assistance provided from the local government.

Such remarkable achievements are often in marked contrast to the woeful track record of many of the major donor agencies where the US$ 2.5 million that has been spent over the 13 years of the EBPP, is often expended in one year on administrative charges, illicit fees and expensive consultant reports, that are rarely, if ever, appropriate to real poverty eradication. ■

DAVID PARRY David Parry is a Soil Scientist and Land-use Planner who has been living and working in Indonesia for over 30 years.

He lives in Cinere with his wife Sonja, their six dogs and numerous cats. Please email him at deparry777@gmail.com

The Mist Rolls in towards Daya School

11

Bali Expat­­ · ­20 June - 3 July 2012

Living Art

The Legend of Kebo Iwa

by Kadek Krishna Adidharma

if

you frequently travel between Sanur and Ubud, there’s a fat chance you’ve seen the big baby statue sitting in the Sakah intersection.

It depicts baby Kebo Wanara, a mighty Balinese warrior of legend circa 12th to 14th century. His legendary feats have put him in the pantheon of demi-gods of Balinese folklore, so much that the statue of him as a baby towers over passing tourist busses plying the busy intersection. On some nights, particularly when there haven’t been enough offerings made, locals report hearing a baby crying at the intersection.

Some whisper about seeing the baby walk the streets in their dreams.

Never heard of him? Balinese whose eyes gloss at the mention of the Majapahit Empire have probably never been told the stories of the mighty military genius Kebo Wanara either.

His name literally means “Stud-virgin Bull”, because he is remembered as not having sired any offspring. He is more affectionately called Kebo Iwa, a rather infantile way of saying his name, which may explain why his baby-feats are more remembered than his adult ones.

Legend has it that from the day he was born, Kebo Iwa had a voracious appetite.

Not satiated by his mother’s milk, he would gesture towards his mother’s cooking until he was fed freshly cooked white rice. It took more than a village to raise this child; the neighbouring

villages also, so eager were they to partake in the raising of this miracle giant-child.

When drought and famine struck, making it difficult to feed him, Kebo Iwa dug deep wells with his bare hands to irrigate the community’s rice fields. The tall lad with broad shoulders went on to become a mighty warrior, master-builder and carver.

Legend has it that he carved the exquisite Gunung Kawi cave panels near Tampak Siring with his nails.

In Kebo’s day, totemic names of powerful animals were very popular in Java and Bali, especially among strongmen or warriors.

The Bull’s arch-enemy was Gajah Mada (“Elephant General”), the mahapatih (Prime Minister) of the Majapahit Empire.

Gajah Mada was credited for bringing the empire to the peak of its glory, during the 14th century, when its influence spanned the entire South East Asian archipelago from what is today Thailand to Papua New Guinea, from the Philippines to Darwin.

An interesting historical anecdote is that the only major war the Majapahit waged was against Bali. The rest of the territory was controlled by facilitating trade and/ or intimidation rather than conquest. This leads some historians to believe that Bali was an important power in the region at the time. Part of this was due to the military genius of Kebo Wanara, who successfully fended off many conquest campaigns from Java.

Gajah Mada declared a truce and invited Kebo Wanara to Java with the offer of a giant virgin-bride as his peace offering.

Upon meeting the lady, Kebo was asked to honour his bride by digging a well, and was then buried alive.

History lessons at Balinese schools do not mention kingdoms in Bali prior to Javanese influence much; if at all. Perhaps this is part of the national identity-building agenda to glorify the times when the country was unified under one Kingdom, namely the Sriwijaya and Majapahit Empires.

As a child, I would read folk tales about Kebo Iwa and giggle at Kebo Iwa’s curse to Gajah Mada (and the Javanese): “You shall be ruled by men who stink like cows for three and a half centuries!” A very clever reference to the Dutch (or so I thought).

To write this piece, however, I scoured contemporary print and online versions of the story and was disappointed not to find any reference to the men who stink like cows.

Instead, the ending has been changed.

Kebo Wanara bursts out of the well, debris flying in the air, and fights Gajah Mada man-to-man. During the fight, Gajah Mada obviously losing, the Majapahit minister explains his dream of uniting the archipellago. Kebo Wanara apparently falls for the beauty of this vision, and tells Gajah Mada his weakness: limestone. Ka-pow,

Gajah Mada punches a limestone cliff to make some dust and throws a handful at Kebo Wanara. Breathing obstructed by limestone dust, Kebo Wanara loses his magical powers and is slain by Gajah Mada.

In the version of the story I read as a child, Kebo Wanara tells his brideto-be (a huge bride-doll controlled by a puppet-master) his weakness to limestone dust during the same conversation she asks him to dig a well.

The cunning Gajah Mada buries him alive with limestone first, and then with the earth and rock he had dug out from the ground.

White-washing is common to sanctify the victors in history. Nevertheless, I think the community artists rendering Kebo Iwa’s image honoured him well by presenting him as a baby out of a lightcream-sandstone that looks very much like limestone when brushed clean.

There, even in the depiction of his carefree times as a baby in Bali, illustrating stories mothers tell their children to encourage them to eat to grow strong and tall, lies the elemental clues of his defeat. ■

KADEK KRISHNA ADIDHARMA Kadek Adidharma is an interpreter, curator and environmental engineer based at Lakeview in Kintamani.

12

20 June - 3 July 2012 · Bali Expat­­­

Light Entertainment

To find out more about live stand-up comedy in Indonesia please e-mail jakarta@thecomedyclub.asia text or call 0821 1194 3084 or register at www.thecomedyclub.asia

Motorbikes, Mates and Memorable Moments

by Eamonn Sadler

O

ne warm Friday evening in the summer of 1986, my friend Geoff and I crossed the border into Belgium on our motorbikes and found a campsite just outside the city of Ghent. We put up our small two-man tent and after a simple but hearty meal we prepared to head for the city to sample the world-famous Belgian beer. We planned to teach the locals how to drink it, so we left the bikes behind and walked out to the road hoping to find a bus or some other form of transport that would take us to where the action was.

We found a bus stop about half a mile away and were trying to decipher the timetable when a Saab convertible pulled up in front of us. The smiling driver shouted in Belgian, “You guys need a lift?” At least that’s what I assume he said, because when we replied

in unison, “Yes!” then opened the door and started to climb in, he didn’t hit the gas and leave us sprawled on the road. The driver, who turned out to be a very friendly Belgian with almost perfect English, asked if we were looking for a good bar, which of course we were. Twenty minutes later, after a hair-raising and bumpy ride over the cobbled backstreets of Ghent, we were in a packed bar, apparently our driver’s regular hangout, and he was introducing us to his mates as his new friends from England.

One of them asked us if we had ever tried Belgian beer and, when we said no but we were keen to try, bought us the first of the very, very many we were to drink that night.

What innocents we were.

The rest of the night is something of a blur.

My memory of it is like a series of out-of-

focus video clips with muffled sound. In one clip we are playing liars’ dice at a high table, and for some reason a very large Belgian man has got Geoff by the throat and is swearing at him in Flemish complete with copious amounts of phlegm. In another clip I am at the bar trying to chat up a very confused looking local girl in fake Flemish, when I look down and see Geoff shirtless on the floor on his hands and knees, looking up at me desperately and mouthing the word “Help”. In another scene it is very late, the bar is closed and totally quiet except for the sound of Geoff throwing up in the toilet.

I ask the guy next to me, “Will the police arrest us if they find we are still drinking after the bar is closed?” He answers, “I don’t think so—I am the Chief of police!” laughs heartily and slaps me really hard on the back, knocking me to the floor.

Then we are on the street with no clue how to get back to our campsite. Our driver (if he told us his name I don’t remember it) has disappeared and the sun is coming up, there is no transport of any kind anywhere and the streets are totally deserted. In the last clip we are walking.

Next morning I woke up in our tiny tent, gasping for air in the claustrophobic stench of flatulence, cheesy feet and dried urine.

The gaseous cocktail was unbreathable so I was forced to scramble from the tent into the mid day sun. I don’t know how we got back to the campsite, but we were in pretty much the same condition as we were before we left except for hangovers and empty wallets. Belgian beer. The best in the world, but not for the faint of heart. Certainly not for the average naive English beer drinker. ■

Caption Competition A lot of comments about Mike Myers’ height and Cameron Diaz’ cleavage last issue but the prize goes to Henry S. from Kemang for this creative entry. Well done Henry, see you and a friend at comedy next month as our guests.

SMS your hilarious captions to

081 199 9603

Across 1 Periodic sporting contests (7,5) 9 Blacksmith's block (5) 10 Stammer (7) 11 Askew (4) 2 Australian capital - ship (8) 14 Released - shot - treated leniently (3,3) 15 Comment (6) 18 Sweetmeat (8) 20 Autumn - trip (4) 22 Straddling (7) 23 Fat (5) 24 Metropolitan Police HQ (8,4)

Down 2 Young hare (7) 3 Spot - traitor (4) 4 Place equipment in position (6) 5 Complained (8) 6 Measuring device (5) 7 One carrying out a run of murders (6,6) 8 Gymnastic event and apparatus (8,4) 13 It's no rumour - he's in charge (8) 16 Non-professional (7) 17 Fashionable (like the new Tate gallery?) (6) 19 Discuss no further - dismiss - release (3,2) 21 Small horse - £25 (4) { Answers in the next edition! }

*Answers for Edition 01

Across:1. Copper 4. Tepid 7. Swerve 8. Turban 9. Plan 10. Gunsmith 12. Papier-mache 17. Beginner 19. Vote 20. Exeunt 21. Comply 22. Title 23. Glinka

Down: 1. Cowslip 2. Parsnip 3. Evergreen 4. Truss 5. Publish 6. Dinghy 11. Numerical 13. Augment 14. Caveman 15. Estella 16. Absent 18. Nonce

THE NIGHTLIFE QUIZ! Scan the barcode on your smart phone and answer the multiple choice questions correctly for a chance to win a dinner voucher worth Rp. 300,000 from Mykonos Greek Taverna in Oberoi!

Closing date June 26th.

courtesy of

Bali Expat足足 揃 足20 June - 3 July 2012

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14

MUSIC & ENTERTAINMENT

20 June - 3 July 2012 · Bali Expat­­­

BUSINESS & NETWORKING

Attractive Raffle Draw Prizes RSVP to: Mr. Gede Juwena Phone: +623617840212 E-mail: gede@skalbali.com Website: www.skalbali.com

WINE & dINE

Tickets are literally selling like hot cakes, and as the ballroom at W has a capacity of 270 for dinner we cannot increase the number of tickets available—so get yours early to avoid disappointment.

High Season Kicks Off Sir Norman Jay @ Rock Bar Bali Ayana Resort and SPA Bali, Jl. Karang mas Sejahtera Jimbaran, Bali | Sat, 23 Jun 2012

Rotary Canggu Club's Annual Handover Dinner Location: TBA on RSVP Tuesday, 26 June 2012

Ticket Sales : Ayana Resort and SPA Bali Email: fb.reservation@ayanaresort.com Phone: +62-361-702222 www.ayanaresort.com

* Cocktail and canapes and threecourse dinner will precede the Induction Ceremony of new members, auction, raffles and door prizes. * Performace by Violin Prodigio & German Dmitriev from Russia Price: Rp. 300.000 Info & RSVP : +62361 4731701 or +62361 8597400 Email: getintouch@canggurotary.org

Promo Discount: 15% for minimum purchase 100K Open From 12PM - 3 AM Info: +62361 3603980 Email: boshebali.mkt@gmail.com

filmmakers to screen their films while experiencing Indonesia's accommodating culture and diverse locations for possible film locations or story ideas.

For more information please contact: BALINALE International Film Festival Bali Taksu Indonesia Foundation Jalan Merta Sari 10-B Sanur 80228 Bali | INDONESIA Phone: 62 (0) 361 270 908 Email: info@balinale.com Website: www.balinale.com

To make an enquiry regarding getting tickets for this year's Bali Ball please send your enquiry via the contact form on Bali Kids website under the Events section—The Bali Ball 2012

Live Performance by Yasmin Suteja, Joe White, Beau Robb, Norman jay, Martin East Ticket Pre-Sale: Rp. 250.000* At the door: Rp. 300.000* *including first drink Mixed drinks from Rp. 90.000 net

BOSHE BALI - EURO CUP 2012 LIVE MATCH Fri, 08 Jun 2012 - Sun, 01 Jul 2012 Location: Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai no.89x, Kuta, Indonesia 80361

A BIG thank you to everyone who supported us last year, when the inaugural Bali Ball raised more than $120,000 for Bali Kids. At this year's event we are hoping to beat that wonderful amount This year's Bali Ball will be held on Saturday July 14th 2012, in conjunction with The W Resort and Spa.

Ticket available from: Adrew charles andrew@fullproofservices.net Phone: +62361 4736800 Tricia Kim secretary@rotarycanggu.org Phone: +62361 816570796 Website: www.rotarycanggu.org

Website: www.balikids.org

ART & CULTURE SATURDAY FAMILY BRUNCH @Deus Temple Location: The Deus Temple, Jl. Batu Mejan No.8, Canggu-Bali

CHARITY

Skal Bali Luncheon Friday, 06 July 2012 Location: TBA ON RSVP Member-Guests & Families Dinner Cruise * Free for Members * Guest Rp. 250,000

Please come and join Australian professional photographers Mark Rayner and David Metcalf on a spectacular photography tour of the beautiful island of Bali.

Good fun for the whole lot! *Coloring books *Silk screening *Sufboard shapping *Sangria for the big Kids From 8.30am call : +62 361 368 3395 (Reservations) Website: www.deus.co.id

The Bali Ball 2012 Saturday, 14 July 2012 Location: The W Resort and Spa

Enchanting Bali Photo Safari

by Australian professional photographers Mark Rayner and David Metcalf Fri, 16 Nov 2012–Fri, 23 Nov 2012 Location: Bali

6th Annual BALINALE 2012 International Film Festival Mon, 08 Oct 2012–Sun, 14 Oct 2012 Location: Galeria 21 Cineplex, Mal Bali Galeria BALINALE International Film Festival was established in 2007 by Bali Taksu Indonesia Foundation, founded by Christine Hakim, Indonesia's internationally recognized film actress and producer, and Deborah Gabinetti, director of Bali Film Center, the non-profit, nongovernment Indonesian registered charity organization provides an opportunity to invite foreign

This is not the normal "Tourist" Bali visit. This is a journey to see hidden gems and magical places you would not normally see at the typical tourist haunts of Bali. You will visit ancient hidden temples, iconic terraced paddy fields still ploughed by hand and view amazing landscapes as well as Wonderous waterfalls and mountain views. This will be a photographic sensory overload! The people of remote villages with their unrivalled friendliness. This photography workshop and tour is not to be missed.

Please visit our websites for further information and details: www.davidmetcalfphotography.com www.tailoredphotography.com.au RSVP: www.davidmetcalfphotography.com Email at: davidmetcalf3@mac.com

15

Bali Expat­­ · ­20 June - 3 July 2012

Place a Classified Ad and get results!

SUBLEASE Villa in the heart of Seminyak behind Oberoi for 10 years, 7 Ara land, 4+2 bedrooms, fully furnished, cable tv, wi-fi, security and housekeeping, large kitchen, swpool, courtyard, spacious indoor and outdoor lv room. Call owner now: +62 812386658 +62 81805699355.

Email: avatarintl@cbn.net.id

Classifieds are still FREE! Send in your classifieds to ads@baliexpat.biz Next issue deadline: 27 June, 2012 Have something to sell? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Bali Expat!

Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 12,500 copies bi weekly.

Classifieds : free of charge | 50 words max Send in your classifieds to ads@baliexpat.biz

JOBS

OTHERS

For sale IPAD 3 - 64 gb - 4g + wifi color white. price only 8 million rupiah. Contact 083119645264

For SALE Redefining Bali discovery off the beaten tracks to explore the hidden beauty of Paradise.

Package tours, leisure activities, buying agent & car rental. For further information, please visit www.jalandesa-bali.webs.com

Small boutique villa, 5 mins to Batu Bolong beach, 2 bed, 2 bath, living, dining, kitchen, laundry, carport, pool and sundeck, bathtub, water heater, AC. IDR 950 mil nego. 0813 3837 8126

Toyota Kijang Capsule 2001 LGX Automatic, Metallic Silver.

Regularly maintained and very clean. 2 New tires and new battery.

Available for viewing/test drive in Nusa Dua. 100 Juta 082 144 857843

Honda Vario CBS bought new 072011 low km 3500 sell for RP. 13 million. Contact 082147596980 or ebhoorn@hotmail.com

For sale - Angry Birds kids cotton polo t-shirts. Sizes M and L only.

Call Nana 081338397150 or yohbu@yahoo.com For Sale: Surf Board Hawaiian shapes 6-9 x 19 x 2 5 / 8 like new must sell 2.5 jt only please contact 08123942215

Ubud Restaurant for sale/Rent 300m2 SHM Jl.Raya Campuhan Ubud.Call Owner 08123932587 (Indonesia Language)

YOUR BEST CHOICE FOR HOSPITALITY RECRUITMENT & EXECUTIVE SEARCH POSITIONS AVAILABLE

INDONESIA Operations General Manager (Expat) - Nusa Dua - Bali Food & Beverage Service Assistant Director of Food & Beverage (Expat/Local) - Jakarta Restaurant Manager (Expat) - Seminyak - Bali Kitchen Chef De Cuisine (French) - Jakarta - Java Chef De Cuisine (Expat) - Seminyak - Bali Executive Chef (Expat) - Jimbaran - Bali Executive Chef (Expat) - Jakarta - Java Executive Chef (French) - Jakarta - Java Executive Chef (Expat/Local) - Tabanan - Bali Rooms GRO Japanese (Expat) - Jimbaran - Bali GRO Russian (Expat) - Jimbaran - Bali Sales & Marketing Group Director of Sales & Marketing (Expat) - Bali

St. Lukas fresh new jewellery designer in Bali, specializes in custom-made jewelries, one of a kind and does not make mass amounts of one design. Made to order. Please contact Leo: 081805684044.

DO YOU DREAM OF A BETTER LIFE WITH MORE OPPORTUNITIES OVERSEAS? BBC3 SERIES SEEKS YOUNG BRITISH COUPLES, FRIENDS AND SIBLINGS WHO ARE EMIGRATING TO START A NEW AND EXCITING WORKING LIFE OVERSEAS. UK-based television production company Ricochet are developing a new documentary series about young Brits starting their dream life overseas. The series will follow people as they relocate and get their businesses up and running.

We are looking for people who are contemplating emigration or have even started the process. If you have embarked on your adventure, we would love to hear from you.To find out more, please contact Naomi Gayler: Naomi.gayler@ricochet.co.uk or 0044 (0)1273 224800 * Getting in touch does not obligate you to take part in the programme.

THAILAND Director of Sales & Marketing (Expat) - Bangkok Group General Manager (Expat) – Bangkok Resident Manager (Expat) - Bangkok For more detailed job description and to apply online, please visit our website : www.globalexpatrecruiting.com

Presently we are looking for an F&B ASSISTANT DIRECTOR, SOUS CHEF ASSISTANT, REVENUE MANAGER, FEMALE TRAINING MANAGER, FINANCE CONTROLLER, ASSISTANT FINANCE CONTROLLER, for our one of the best Client, a FIVE STAR HOTEL located at Jakarta, Indonesia. Applicants should be working with Hotel Industry, and have an excellent communication in Bahasa Indonesia and English.

Please send your resume to yenidewi@jakartaexecutivesearch. com and yenidewisiagian@gmail. com. Follow me @yenidewisiagian and add my BB Pin 27FA819C, for other vacant job offerings.

Bali Expat is looking for a full time sales person who is driven, self motivated and has a wide network of contacts. Our commissions are higher than the rest. Interested?

Please send your CV to us at info@ baliexpat.biz

BUSINESS I am looking for business opportunities in Indonesia. I have a wide network in the retail industry and media tools to promote the business. Interested? e-mail me: jakartalinks@gmail.com

My name is Alexey Pesha, I am a general manager of Green Papaya Organic Village in Vietnam. I just moved to Bali few months ago and I am looking for a partner in Hotel business and property development in Bali. If you are interested in long term partnership, planning to build a resort or want to renovate your old one, contact me. Email: alexey. pesha@gmail.com. Bali phone number: 0812 3929 0544. Skype: alexey.pesha Bali — Friendliest, Coziest Hotel/ Homestay in Ubud. Charming and very inexpensive, your hostess Ibu Oka Kartini. Call me on 08123839867. Also looking for investing partner (small investment) to expand and improve our lovely hotel. Also great for a restaurant. We are facing the main road in Ubud.

A really great opportunity for the right person.

Property Business Consultant, professional service. Pls call: 0361-3109567 Hp: 081805547666 Guide, Transport, Touring, Diving, Tracking, Spa etc. Book your special package with us. Call: 087860067005 Name Card IDR 17.000,-/box, nota, sticker, brochure etc, call: 7870969 Boarding house!!! Complete Facility at Soputan & Imam Bonjol front of Alfa Perum Mutiara, 08123850669/ 7823222

Kost for Sale. Tuban area (near airport). 14 rooms. SHM. IMB. Jl. Mandiri IV No. 8. Call Owner 081 999 355 899 (Direct Buyer Only)

Hand made recycled jewelry made from bottle caps, tin cans,pop tops.Email: bhava_dance@ hotmail.com Website: http://bhava. exto.nl/ Private Course, Computer Graphics: ColelDraw, photoshop.

Please call: Sketsa Bali, 03618049238 Fitness Private Coach, Come To Your Place. Leo: 081 338 704 319 Private Swimming Teacher, All Level & Ages. Leo: 081338704319

PROPERTY For Rent My house with two (2) A.C. bedrooms, open living, garden and swimming pool in Kerobokan - Bali is for rent from 1 June till 1 January 2013. Large LCD TV and IndoVision installed. Only 10 minutes from the beach. Security at night. Low rent. Call me @ Hp: 0817119265.

For LEASE

Private Island for lease. 25+years.

1.25 hectares with white sandy beach. Surrounded by a protected national Marine Park, and just outside a proposed UNESCO World Heritage Site you have world class surfing, diving & abundant sport fishing. Priced for quick sale due to break up of investor group. Visit http: //411d. net for photos. islands@ sunnyskiesproperties. com

PROPERTY LEASE OFFERING NEAR BALI AIRPORT The property is strategically located about 50 meters from the entrance of Ngurah Rai International Airport, right opposite the 4-star international Harris Hotel, and at the outskirts of one of the fastestgrowing areas in Bali, Ngurah Rai. The building of 250 M2 was professionally fitted out as a European-style bar and restaurant, although its façade and layout are versatile and accommodating of other types of businesses and purposes. Lease period ends at 2027. Price per year: 300 juta. For more data, email info@jakartaexpat.biz

For sale villa near the beach!

350sqm brand new villa, just 2 minutes to Cemagi beach, freehold title, 2 storey pool, great rice field view surroundings. An opportunity not to be missed! Call us for details and inspection. Tya 087861640704/0361-769009 www. raywhitekuta.com Villa for sale in Sanur, 200 meter to Mertasari beach. Any other property in any area are available. Please contact Putri 0817340706/0361-9118254/ putri@raywhitekuta.com

Toyota Harrier 2.4 L A/T 2006 - 35000 km black metal, sensor rear camera, dvd, lcd 7. Price 450 million (nego) Contact: 0817350000

iPhone 3G 16Gb. Black. Near perfect cond. Earbuds and charger/cable (unused), Jailbroken and Unlocked (4.01 Fresh Install) Rp 4Mil Call: 082 144 857843

For Sale: ColorVision Spyder 2 Suite. Good for monitor screen color calibration. Perfect condition.

Call/ SMS: 081 999 355 899 For Sale: Faulty-mode Acer Aspire laptop. Comes with original charger + box + software drives.

Call/SMS: 081 999 355 899

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20 June - 3 July 2012 揃 Bali Expat足足足