Bali Expat - Issue 17 – Love & Hate by Bali Expat

BALI EXPAT ◆ 13th – 26th February 2013

Indonesia's Largest Expatriate Readership

17th Edition

13th – 26th February 2013

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13th – 26th February 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT

dear readers

17th Edition | 13th – 26th February 2013

Editor in Chief

Angela Richardson angela@baliexpat.biz Management

Edo Frese edo@baliexpat.biz Editorial Assistant

Silvia Forsman silvia@baliexpat.biz Sales

t’s that time of year again where you either say, “I love you darling” or “Love sucks!” Hopefully for most of you it’s the former and you get showered with love this Valentine’s day instead of the usual downpour we’ve been getting lately. In Bali we are spoilt when it comes to ideas to woo your loved one and the number of romantic settings where you can wine and dine are endless. Be creative this year and try something different – a romantic picnic on the beach, walking in the foothills of Kintamani and sampling different coffees at one of the many plantations in the area, sharing the spectacular view of the Gunung Batur caldera, diving together and having a kiss with a Mola Mola, and more. Sometimes one rose is better than a dozen and the little things can far outweigh the grand gestures.

Threes threes@baliexpat.biz Silvia Forsman silvia@baliexpat.biz

This issue we bring you Love and Hate. We have a fascinating read by Seamus McElroy about the journey a tuna will take from when it is hauled out of the ocean until it is sold in Japan’s largest fishing market for record prices – a very important moral and conservation message lies within. Francesco Ricciardi meets the founders of Aquatic Alliance, a foundation dedicated to conserving Manta Rays in the seas of Bali and Nusa Lembonga and our hip young contributor, Lara van Osenbruggen joins us with a piece on how to find love in Bali, apparently not as easy as it sounds. We also have a new writer in our midst, Salvador Bali, with his monthly column: Expat Anecdotes don't miss this one, folks! So, whatever you get up to this Valentine’s Day, just remember to adore and endure each other…

Distribution

Dian Mardianingsih dian@baliexpat.biz Graphics

Frederick Ng fred@baliexpat.biz Finance & Admin

Pertiwi Gianto Putri tiwi@jakartaexpat.biz Lini Verawaty lini@jakartaexpat.biz Contributors

Salvador Bali Leif Hope Seamus McElroy Laura van Osenbruggen Francesco Ricciardi Eamonn Sadler Julia Tchezganova Editorial Enquiries

letters@baliexpat.biz

in this 17th issue: Legal Realities of Indonesian Expatriates: Family Matters ................................................3 Finding Love in Bali ................................................................................................................4 Aquatic Alliance: Research & Conservation of Manta Rays in Nusa Lembongan ..........6

Circulation Enquiries

Angels & Devils .......................................................................................................................8

info@baliexpat.biz

Anita Scheeres: Independent Bookseller in Bali ...............................................................10

Subscription

subscriptions@baliexpat.biz

Left Side, Right Side ..............................................................................................................11 Bali's Sashimi Tuna Journey to the World's Biggest Fish Market ....................................12 The Unfortunate Anagram ...................................................................................................13

Events

Events ......................................................................................................................................14

events@baliexpat.biz

Classifieds ...............................................................................................................................15

Bali Expat is published bi-weekly by PT. Koleksi Klasik. Opinions expressed in this publication are those of the writers and the publisher does not accept any responsibility for any errors, ommisions, or complaints arising there from.

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BALI EXPAT ◆ 13th – 26th February 2013

law & legalities

LEGAL REALITIES OF INDONESIAN EXPATRIATES

Family Matters by Julia Tchezganova

he purpose of this article is to explain some of the main family law related topics in the context of expatriate life in Indonesia. This includes a discussion on marriage and divorce. First, it is important to establish that the article will mainly concentrate on the relationships between foreigners and Indonesian nationals. While foreign couples go through the same events as mixed couples, facing Indonesian laws as part of a foreigner-Indonesian couple is at times much more strenuous and complicated. Please note that previous Bali Expat articles have already addressed related topics of “Indonesian Citizenship Concerns for Children from Mixed Marriages” and “Land Ownership.” According to Law No. 1 of 1974 on Marriage Law, “a marriage is legitimate if it has been performed according to the laws of the respective religious beliefs of the parties

concerned.” What this means is that generally, all persons may marry in Indonesia, provided that they hold a religion recognized by the Indonesian Government: Islam, Hinduism, Buddhism, or Christian Catholic/Protestant. Marriage partners must have the same religion or make a written declaration of change of religion. Marriages may be performed by Ministers of Religion, officers of the Kantor Catatan Sipil (Civil Registry Office), or the Kantor Urusan Agama (Office of Religious Affairs). For the marriage to be legal, it must be conducted according to the religion and conform to the laws of the countries of the parties involved. It is important to note that every non-Islamic marriage must be recorded with the Civil Registry (Kantor Catatan Sipil) or the marriage will not be considered legal. Individuals of non-Islamic faith are required to first file a “Notice of Intention to Marry” at the Civil Registry Office in the Regency where they are staying.

At the same time, they must file a “Letter of no Impediment,” which is obtained from the consular representatives. Documents required for the Notice of Intention to Marry are different for expatriates and for Indonesian citizens. Thus, ensure that you consult with an up to date official website or a lawyer for the purpose of submitting appropriate documentation. Article 57 of Marriage Law stipulates that a mixed marriage is “a marriage between two people in Indonesia is subject to different laws as a result of difference in citizenship and one of the parties is an Indonesian citizen.” Article 60 elaborates that requirements of marriage should follow the national law applicable to each person entering the marriage, including consent requirements, marital age, and prohibited relationships. Citizenship also follows the same requirements and the marriage partner may either acquire the nationality of the other or lose his/ her citizenship in accordance with the requirements and procedures related to one’s nationality.

For necessary documentation, information, and general guidance, it is necessary for the persons intending to marry to visit their country’s embassy in Indonesia and consult with as many resources as possible. A very generous resource that compiles much information into one location is http://www.expat.or.id/ info/familylaw.html.

A court decision is an annulment, which means that a marriage may be cancelled if both parties cannot fulfil the conditions for the marriage and can only be decided by a court of law of a jurisdiction where the marriage was conducted or of the residence of the couple.

What is imperative to highlight is the importance of prenuptial agreements in mixed marriages, as they can assist in resolving many issues, such as property ownership, should they ever arise.

It is clear that full discussion on both marriage and divorce is outside of the scope of this article. It must be repeated that it is absolutely vital that you seek legal assistance if you have any questions concerning your citizenship, children, adopting stepchildren, property, among other concerns. Do not hesitate to seek advice even when you think you have all of the necessary information. When it comes to these matters, knowledge of Indonesian law is necessary. ■

When marriages come to an end, individuals must be aware of the legal framework that surrounds the divorce proceedings. Marriage Law of 1974 stipulates that a marriage may be terminated due to: 1. Death of either party 2. Divorce 3. Upon court’s decision. In order to proceed with a divorce, either of the parties must file a divorce petition to the court. Divorce may only be executed before a court session, a district court for Non-Muslims, or before a religious court for Muslims. The list of legal grounds of filing for divorce includes such grounds as: adultery, drugs, alcoholism, leaving spouse for two years, imprisonment for five or more consecutive years, cruelty, disability or disease preventing from fulfilling spousal duties, or irreconcilable differences.

*** Anything written in this article is intended to provide information only and is not intended to serve as legal advice.

Julia Tchezganova If not found in the office, Julia can be seen falling off a mountain bike in Puncak or on her way to see an opera in Singapore.

13th – 26th February 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT

love

Finding

in Bali

by Laura van Osenbruggen

inding true love anywhere these days is difficult or it seems maintaining the love buzz is more of the problem, as you just need to check the statistics of divorce rates and rising numbers of single people out there. Relationships have become dispensable like everything else, with societies’ growing consumer mentality. Out with the old and in with the new so they say. Bali is not just a holiday destination for the globe-trotting surfer but people from all over the world come here to get married and who wouldn’t? With some of the most stunning scenery and idealistic beach settings to be found you can have a wedding that would cost you millions, say on the island of Capri but a wedding in Bali can just be millions of Rupiah which is far nicer on the wallet. With beachfront resorts and villas perfect for the honeymooner or couple celebrating their wedding anniversary alike it’s very hard not to feel romantic walking along the beach when one of those killer sunsets strike. There are many beautiful couples here in the expat community who have found long lasting love and have very committed relationships that will stand the test of time. Kudos to them. So what about those of us who are single and trying to find true love on temptation island? Without trying to sound cynical, finding love in Bali can be Russian roulette at the best of times. You could either be sweet talked into the bedroom by a gorgeous little gold digger who is looking for someone to support them and their entire village, or you could be victim of being cheated on repeatedly. I have heard of so many cases from personal friends and strangers alike stung by their free loving partners - it’s like an everyday occurrence here. Then there is the case of expats going out with married men or women which is just another case of throwing the spicy dice and expecting...what exactly?

Couple A

Couple B

Couple C

She is half Indonesian and half Dutch, raised in the Netherlands. He is French. They met in the surf at Nusa Dua a year ago and kept bumping into each other at various bars around Seminyak. They are now happily living together, surfing together daily and making a wonderful life together in Bali. The difficulty they face of sustaining the relationship is that he has to return to France each summer for work commitments so they have a couple of months apart. Facebook and Skype are their saving grace during these times, as is for many couples where long distance is an issue.

This couple met at a party through mutual friends. She is Indonesian and he is American. She is also married to another man who spends most of his time in Britain. This couple have had their ups and downs for obvious reasons but have continued their relationship for close to two years now. The difficulty of maintaining this relationship lies in the fact that the husband does return to Bali for a couple of weeks twice a year. This is a trying time for both of them and they often split up during this time. They admit they do love each other deeply, despite the fact they have had numerous breakups, there is always the inevitable ‘get back together’ situation. The passion keeps it alive but there is a question mark over how long this will continue as the American man is considering moving away from Bali in the future to pursue other career options.

This sweet pair first laid eyes on eachother a bar in Kuta. She is American and he is Australian. She has worked and lived here for three years. This was a case of cat and mouse for a while as both of them thought the other viewed it as just a casual thing. Until they realized they were spending every day and night together they finally made it official and became a couple. Very sweet to watch. The difficulty of maintaining their relationship is that he has to return to Australia every second month to work. They have recently decided to both move to Australia now and return to Bali for holidays.

If you have had enough of the local loving then you might just prefer ‘love’ of the one night varieties where clubs and bars in Kuta and Seminyak offer a haven of selections for the younger generation, or older if you like to prowl like a cougar. What a cynical way to start this article you might state. No, these are the cold hard facts of finding TRUE love in Bali. Firstly, you are on an island where transience abounds and people come and go.

who have managed to find love in Bali and it was my mission to find out just how they did that. Some of these stories might give you some nice warm fuzzies or may cause you to raise your eyebrows and it is for the latter reason they remain nameless to protect their identity. The end of this article will discuss some of the best ways to attract your ideal partner so you too can find love in Bali. Hallelujah.

For all you single people out there, there is a light at the end of the tunnel. There are the lucky few

When I have spoken to my single

So it can happen.

friends we all have the same complaints. Do we really have to go to a bar to meet someone as it seems this whole island is just geared up for that sort of thing. Here are some other ideas. If you want to meet someone

spiritual, join a meditation group or even a local international church. In fact ICC based at the Mecure Hotel down past Discovery Mall is holding a series of talks on relationships this month. Next Sunday their talk will be ‘How to be single and happy’. The following week will be about how to attract a partner and the next couple of weeks will be for married couples who want to keep their marriage

solid with Christian principles, which is good for everyone whether you are Christian or not. If you are into outdoor activities, obviously the beach is a great place to meet people. In the surf if you are not too competitive you might just want to paddle up to someone and say hi. Running on the beach at sunset would also be a great idea. Or if you are into diving go to some diving spots and hang out at dive clubs. Join a yoga class if you want to meet someone health-conscious and of course the gym is always a great place, too. Last but not least though, using the laws of attraction, make a wish list of all the qualities you would like in a partner. Then ask yourself, would the person on this list want to be with a person like you? Maybe you need to make some changes in your life to attract the person you really want. May you all experience love in your life today. ■

Lara Van Osenbruggen Lara van Osenbruggen aka Elka Miste is originally from New Zealand but is now based in Sanur Bali. In her spare time she surfs and is a DJ/Producer of Techhouse/ Dubstep. Her interests include interdimensional travel, conspiracy theories and cats.

BALI EXPAT ◆ 13th – 26th February 2013

13th – 26th February 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT

conservation

Aquatic Alliance: Research & Conservation of Manta Rays in Nusa Lembongan by Francesco Ricciardi

he Islands of Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida are synonymous with wonderful coral reefs, amazing surf breaks, peace and tranquillity. For diving and snorkelling enthusiasts, it’s also the place where one can have unforgettable encounters with majestic manta rays. These wonderful fish, despite being celebrities for sea lovers, are poorly known by scientists. What is sure is some of their populations are dramatically decreasing due to overfishing, pollution and other kinds of man-made disturbances. An organization based in Nusa Lembongan, Aquatic Alliance, founded by Helen Mitchell and Peter Bassett, aims to protect these animals living in Bali’s waters and I caught up with Helen Mitchell to find out more. Let’s talk about you first: where are you from and how did you end up in Lembongan? Aquatic Alliance is the natural progression of many years of involvement in marine based conservation projects. Over the years we've been working sideby-side with some of the highest regarded marine scientists within their disciplines. We have decided to roll up our sleeves and make a commitment to take action in defence of the animals we care about. In our previous lives, Peter was in fashion advertising before becoming a yoga instructor, and Helen was a celebrity fashion stylist, but by deciding it was time for a new adventure we’ve ended up travelling all over the world following our passion for marine life. We started working in Lembongan after finishing up working with the Gili Eco Trust (Lombok) a few years ago, returning to start assessing the mantas here was a natural progression after our time with the Marine Megafauna Association in Mozambique. Aquatic Alliance is focusing on research of manta rays offering very interesting activities like free public talks about Marine Biology and Mantas in Nusa Lembongan. Why did you choose these animals and how are people’s reactions to your activities?

That’s an easy question—who wouldn’t want to spend their day swimming with manta rays? Seriously though, all marine life and the conservation of it interests us, but in this instance it was because our most recent post prior to starting Aquatic Alliance was working with Dr. Andrea Marshall (otherwise known as “The Manta Queen”—the world’s leading manta ray scientist) and Dr. Simon Pierce at Marine Megafauna Association. Andrea was a great teacher, and both she and Dr. Pierce are our scientific advisors on the project here in Bali. Almost everyone we meet is interested in manta rays, whether they are divers who spend thousands of dollars to come to Bali to see them, or

non-divers who are awed by their magnificent beauty. This makes them extremely important as it generates an interest in the marine environment, and hope that this in turn will help get the oceans the protection it so desperately needs.

quite a few very interesting things starting to pique our interest, but as yet it is too early to tell if there is anything substantial in what we have noticed—we’ll have to do another interview next year to see if our suspicions prove to be correct!

What are the objectives of your research? Did you get some interesting results so far?

We are also spending a lot of time and energy on education, doing our AA lectures marine children’s books for the local schools, marine animal encounter protocols for the Nusa Lembongan dive shops, economic surveys to understand how much money these amazing animals are generating for Bali and Indonesia via tourism, being very active on social media with info and action and all this is to put toward our main aim which is to get manta rays and sharks protected in Indonesia.

As we are a fairly new organization, we are busy getting baseline data on both manta rays and Sunfish (Mola mola), as well as an idea of the other marine megafauna gracing our waters such as the different shark species, turtles, dolphins. Consistent and very keen observation is the key here, and over time we hope to make some discoveries; there are

Almost everywhere there is the perception of the ‘poor fisherman’ who has to earn enough money to survive. Do you think it’s really a matter of subsistence? Intense fishing pressure and growing international consumer demand have caused manta ray populations to decline by 30% worldwide, with some regions experiencing an 80% decline over the last 75 years. Many species of sharks have also declined by massive percentages, and obviously this current fishing pressure is unsustainable. The biggest key to a successful conservation project is working with all aspects of the community so everyone benefits by these animals being protected. No

BALI EXPAT ◆ 13th – 26th February 2013

one wants to deny the fishermen more money to provide for their families, but from what we can gather it is not the fishermen making the money: it is the boat owners, and then ultimately the agents and middlemen. Many of the fishermen complain they are working too hard for too little, so perhaps it is time to readdress the balance; perhaps it is time to consider making more money from mantas and sharks by keeping them alive for all to enjoy, and dispersing the money made from ecotourism more fairly amongst all areas of the community. Recently we were co-recipients for a Project Aware grant for funding to monitor the Tanjung Luar (Lombok)

fishery, which is notoriously aggressive for sharks and mantas. It is a yearlong project focusing on charting the economic benefits keeping these amazing animals alive. At the conclusion we will attempt to shift the government’s paradigm on protection of these animals. Many tour operators offer “Manta trips” to Nusa Penida where people can dive or snorkel with manta rays. I have personally observed more than 10 boats in the same site, creating a very dangerous situation both for animals and divers. Do you think this activity should be regulated in some ways?

Yes, we do, and fortunately the Coral Triangle Centre is in the process of setting up a Marine Protected Area, which will also include dealing with this issue no one wants to be run over or polluted by too much boat traffic, least of all the mantas. We have also been working with the CTC on dive shop education and protocols when diving with manta rays and Mola mola, as well as directing a Codes of Conduct video, which will be given to all the dive shops to help customers understand how to behave when getting to the dive site, and when getting in the water with these special creatures.

Conservation and protection of nature is a big issue in Indonesia and especially in Bali, considering the high touristic pressure. What do you think are the immediate actions that have to be taken? One of the biggest issues we see on a daily basis here is water pollution. In a culture where rubbish is commonly thrown onto the ground or into the river system, the advent of plastic has been a disaster. Plastic bags are a major problem for marine life as they look a lot like jellyfish and accidentally get eaten. Plastics frequently get caught on coral resulting in it being broken or suffocated, and there are

Intense fishing pressure and growing international consumer demand have caused manta ray populations to decline by 30% worldwide, with some regions experiencing an 80% decline over the last 75 years.

many documented examples of dolphins, sharks, mantas, turtles and other species of fish having drowned because of being caught in marine litter. Plastic collection and adequate disposal is urgently needed: a recent report found that approximately 30 million plastic bottles are used in Bali every month! Another issue that comes along with the increase in tourism is the pollution and destructive run off that comes from bad building practices. People are often so concerned with getting their hotel or guest house up and running, they don’t bother with making sure there is no land erosion, or that their toilet waste system is not seeping into the sea, both of which will kill the beautiful coral reefs so many of their customers come to Indonesia to see. So far the islands of Nusa Penida have not been affected by this, but it is an ongoing concern as more and more construction happens here. What are the plans of Aquatic Alliance for the future and how can people help and get involved in your activities? Our manta population is year round so the project is ongoing. There will be more data collection, population monitoring, fishery surveying and there can never be enough education, so please come to our talks, keep up with us on Facebook for articles, updates and petitions etc. and spread the Manta Word. One of the best forms of helping is by talking to your friends and colleagues about the threats to our amazing marine life. ■

■ (far left) Aquatic Alliance are

always pulling up nets from the seabed.

AQUATIC ALLIANCE www.aquaticalliance.org info@aquaticalliance.org https://www.facebook.com/ aquaticalliance

■ (left & below) Helen at work and picking net off of coral.

■ (right) Peter photographing a Manta Ray.

■ (above) A Manta mating train.

FREE marine talks at the Yoga Shack at Secret Garden Bungalows (Nusa Lembongan) every Tuesday and Thursday at 6.30 pm.

Francesco Ricciardi Francesco Ricciardi is a freelance photographer and journalist based in Bali. PhD in Marine Biology and diving instructor, he uses his camera to uncover the wonders of Indonesian marine and terrestrial wildlife. His website: www.francescoricciardi.com

13th – 26th February 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT

shopping

Angels & Devils

see in the shop. An example is that at first I had just a few accessories in my shop, but as there was so much demand, I now have a larger collection. Do you have any other outlets? No, not yet, but watch the space!

Angels & Devils is a shop where budding fashionistas can be found, where Angels are less than 10, Devils are older than 10. Maddy Saman is the Belgian owner and designer of the shop’s unique clothes.

Who designs and makes your clothes? They are fashionable, even unique, for young kids and they really love to wear your clothes. I design all the clothes we have at Angels and Devils: from the design, selection of fabric to checking the last details when the garment is completed. I am inspired by my 10 year old daughter and her friends, they really know what they like!

by Seamus McElroy Maddy, thank you for spending a few minutes to talk to us about your unique shop, how did Angels and Devils come about? I have always loved being creative and I studied fashion in Belgium. Being In Bali, the desire to design came back very strong. I felt that there was not a lot of variety or great quality clothes for children, so therefore I decided to get started! The zaniness, wackiness of the shop, the great clothes and wonderful range of accessories really appeals to kids of all ages and sexes. In your opinion, what is the secret that makes it work for you and for the kids?

It is important that children’s clothes are unique and we have clothes available for every occasion. The shop is designed for boys, girls and teens; the uniqueness of the clothes flows back in the accessories and in the shop itself! Was Canggu Plaza a good move? How has the first year been? A great move! Canggu square is a place where there is always something to do and it is cosy. The first year was a learning curve for me; training the team, listening to my customers, finding high quality fabrics and tailors and finding out what both the little "Angles and Devils" love to wear and want to

Do you have any plans to expand? Not at the moment, my main focus is on the Angels and Devils shop in Canggu, but we have received several offers to expand. My main priority is that we stay unique, have the best service and that all our customers enjoy the Angel and Devil experience!

Seamus McElroy Seamus McElroy is an environmental consultant and University lecturer based in Bali

Thank you for your time today Maddy. We wish every success for the future. ■

Angels and Devils

Canggu Plaza, Jl. Taman Wisata Tibubeneng No.XX, Canggu, Bali 80361

Phone: 0361 787 6400

■ Maddy Saman and her Angels and Devils crew (top left) ■ Angels and Devil's beautiful face mask being tried on by a little customer.

www.angelsdevils-bali.com

BALI EXPAT ◆ 13th – 26th February 2013

13th – 26th February 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT

expat enterpreneur

ANITA SCHEERES

Independent Bookseller in Bali

by Leif Hope

nita Scheeres fell into bookselling. Each time she would visit her family in Sydney, she would lug books back to Bali, accumulating by the early 1980s a mass of reading material. The books were initially hoarded simply because there was no bookstore on the island at the time, but in 1986 it occurred to this ardent bibliophile to rent a tiny space to sell books at the bottom of Ubud’s Monkey Forest Road where she and her Balinese husband, Ketut, had bought a small piece of land. Previously a woodcarving shop, the rudimentary bookstore— named Ganesha after the Hindu God of Writers—literally grew out of hundreds of cardboard boxes full of books taken out of storage from Ketut’s home in Denpasar. These were the days when Monkey Forest Road was only negotiable by pedestrians, pushbikes and motorbikes. She remembers an old slightly mad farmer conversing with his cow while he walked her down the footpath in front of the shop. Ubud was then a favourite destination of such Aquarius-age characters as Summer Blossom and long-haul world travel legend, Six Finger Eddy. Anita put her father-in-law in charge of the

shop. A gentlemanly academic, he became popular with the many expats living in and around Ubud. Even though the store kept irregular hours, travellers seemed to sense when he was there and they would drop in to chat and peruse the shelves. By 1991 they had outgrown the little shop and moved to a larger location on Ubud’s main street. Ganesha kept on growing. Musical instruments, incense, cards, gift items and “bookish things” were added like bamboo bookmarks, journals and maps. After 10 years

they opened an even larger store on the corner of the main street and Jl. Jembawan opposite the post office where they remain to this day. From the embryonic stock hand-carried from Australia, Anita and Ketut have built over the years a thriving book business offering new and quality secondhand books on subjects ranging from gardening through astrology, from rare and antiquarian books to Indonesiana and Baliana, plus everything in between. How many bookstores do you have now? Besides our big bookshop on Ubud’s main street, we opened another store inside Biku in Seminyak in 2009. The owner, Asri Kerthyasa, and I are good friends and we had often spoken about opening a special place such as this. It has an amazing feel about it and such wonderful food! What a bonus to work in a bookshop and have a fabulous Afternoon Tea each time you come to work. Our Sanur shop, which we opened in 2012, was an indulgence too. I missed being at the beach so looked hard for a location that was close enough for an afternoon swim. Does Ganesha specialize in certain book genres? Yes, we specialize in “Indonesian Studies”—that is, books on the history, culture, religion, music, art, ecology, architecture, language and textiles of Indonesia. In our used books sections we concentrate on modern literature and the classics, including poetry. Our rare Book Section in each store contains only rare books on Bali and Indonesia and we search the world for these. We have around 60% new books, 35% used books and 5% rare and antique books in the stores.

Has the digital revolution affected what book buyers buy? As the book industry changes some customers will use e-readers for guidebooks and even some light holiday reading material. Some long-term residents purchase books for their e-readers but many books on Indonesia —both fiction and non-fiction —are not available as e-books, particularly for those titles published inside Indonesia. We have such a plethora of beautiful locally produced photography books, art books, keris books, etc., and these are not suitable for e-book readers. How is Ganesha different from big chains such as Gramedia, Times and Periplus? Ganesha is a very personal store with a certain relaxed feeling about it. People really enjoy the store’s ambience—the music, the friendly staff, the seats and the air-conditioning. Our customers are very important to us and we do try to give one-on-one attention. I don’t think this is possible in chain stores. Both Ketut and I work in our stores—I don’t think you find the bosses of chain stores actually talking to customers. Because we take this hands-on approach, we are acutely aware of what our customers want and we can follow through and order books that fulfil their needs and desires. Why aren’t there more independent bookstores in Bali? There are many reasons for the lack of independent bookstores but the most obvious one is that we cannot operate in the same way, as we would in say the USA or Australia. It is not a matter

of picking up the phone and just ordering books as there are virtually no major publishing houses represented here in Indonesia. And here we do not have a sale/return system. All books here have to be bought outright and are not returnable to the distributor. This means you have to be quite sure about a book’s saleability. As an independent, what specific economic and marketing problems do you face? Where do I start! We work on an extremely small margin—between 20% and 30%—and then out of that come all our operating costs, i.e. rent, electricity, postal charges, telecommunications and staffing. There is not much left over. As with most businesses in the current economic climate, increasing business costs is the biggest obstacle affecting our profitability. Another dilemma at the moment is to keep abreast of how the book industry is changing. There is no guidebook for this! But I’m optimistic. I think independent booksellers can survive if they specialize and listen to what their customers want. There’s a place for every type of book—whether it’s an e-book or a physical book. Just so long as everyone keeps reading there will be a place for all of us! What book are you reading now? Kader Abdolah’s The House of the Mosque. I saw him at the Ubud Writer’s Festival last year and he was so charismatic and his life so fascinating that I was inspired to read his work. ■

BALI EXPAT ◆ 13th – 26th February 2013

expat anecdotes

Left Side, Right Side by Salvador Bali

ell if you heard it once, you’ve heard it a thousand times before, as the saying goes. So get ready, this is my version. I am back in the old U.S.of A. New Jersey actually, a quaint picturesque town called Cranford. Up until then two decades had passed and I was excited to catch up with all my old friends and haunts. Zap, bang, boom. “You’ve been living in Bali, in a time warp zone, reality, what a concept. No friends, no haunts, gone with the wind.” Man I was a legend in my own mind, once upon a time. This is about traffic and driving in Bali traffic, the culture on the left side of the road. Okay, I’m still in New Jersey and so the story picks up. Since I’ve been out of the country for so long, my driver’s license had expired. I’m on the driving course, in a parking lot somewhere outside Cranford, stop, go-u- turn, park. As the instructor, instructed. “Okay, make a left turn. What on earth do you think you’re doing?” Who, me? “Yeah, you’re on the wrong side of the road.” Shit, piss and corruption, automatically failed. Six weeks at the least before another road test. In New Jersey you can’t get to a supermarket without a driver’s license. Here goes the panic button. Mr.Instructer man, have you ever been to Bali, Indonesia. No? Well that’s where I just came from. What would you say if I told you, you would never pass the first test without totally being freaked out? First off, it’s left lane driving, so naturally my programmed instincts veered to the left side. Wouldn’t you agree that would call for a second chance? Mr. Instructor says, “That’s what the rescheduling is for.” Wait a minute. I have a family, two kids, a boy and a girl. You don’t want them to starve. How can I get to the supermarket? Look I’m a real good driver, actually great. Twenty years in Bali without so much as a scratch, saving five lives a day at least. Mr. Instructor, “What do you mean saving five lives a day?” Okay, let me draw you a mental picture. For starters the direction signals are used not just for signaling left and right turns, but as instructions to tell you to stay on your left or to stay to your right. It can be very confusing if you’re not made to understand. The flashing of lights are used to signal the oncoming driver as to inform him to slow down, or that he has the right of way, it’s almost like a shoot out. Whoever flashes

first has the right of way, you must be alert. You’ve seen video tapes of obstacle courses for driver’s education? Well let me tell you, that’s a walk in the park compared to driving in Bali. There are no traffic lights to speak of outside of the bypasses, very little police traffic control, and an anything goes atmosphere—no rules, sort of, like organized chaos. For the most part the Balinese pedestrians very rarely look where they’re going, they come from everywhere and anywhere; either walking, running or carrying children, pulling out of parking spaces with no warning or directions and there must be ten motorcycles to every car. You can easily feel like you’re surrounded by a swarm of mosquitoes. They pass on the left, pass on the right, cut you off always trying to gain an inch. This also applies to oncoming traffic as well. Then there are the bicycles who slowly pave their way as though there was nobody else on the road. Now speaking about the roads, the bypasses, no problem from Sanur to Nusa Dua and along to the airport and a newly formed road called Sunset Road. Other than that, whatever village that you may go through can be an experience. Excluding the speed demons, the road could be full of potholes, unpaved roads or placements of rocks or sand piles up to a small hill, placements of mats filled with rice drying in the sun, all due to having no room to place anywhere else. All the way up to the mountains is two lane driving, within sporadic parking on both sides. So if you don’t mind driving within inch capacities, it’s a breeze. Oh, and then there’s the stand-offs. Right or wrong nobody wants to give way until the traffic is so built up that they get pushed out of the way. And as always the mosquitoes are making all conditions doubly hard. Oh did I mention the dogs, cats, cows, ducks and geese? “Enough! I don’t want to hear anymore, I got the picture. Since I don’t have another scheduled booking for another half an hour I’ll give you a shot.” Zam Booolie, cal doolie, yeah, yeah, yeah. Oh thank you ever so kindly Mr. Instructor Man. With my mind on the right side of the road, I had no problem with passing the road test. I must have impressed Mr. Instructor with my over-zealous descriptions of Bali scrambling. In general, I really caught a break, but alas, within one month’s time I found myself back in Bali.

Chow mein, Salvador Bali ■

13th – 26th February 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT

fish

Bali's Sashimi Tuna Journey to the World's Biggest Fish Market by Seamus McElroy

Bluefin tuna fattening farm in the Mediterranean

ive local Indonesian wooden longline vessels enter Benoa harbour within the space of two hours. They have been fishing for yellowfin and bigeye tuna in the Indian Ocean for the past week and will offload today to a simple processing facility beside the quay, TFK, for export overnight to Tokyo, Japan. It is the third day of the New Year, and the world’s biggest fish market, the Tsukiji wholesale market in Tokyo, Japan, will open again on Saturday, 5th of January 2013, two days time. The captain and crew of the boat know that this is jackpot day, the day the highest price will be paid for a bluefin tuna, and are hoping that their fish will also get a good price. And their surprise catch of this trip is a 150 kg Southern Bluefin tuna which, given its size, will have a high fat content and so be very valuable. On any night of the year there is so much longline laid out by the world’s tuna fishing fleets that it circumvents the world five times—that’s 200,000 km of longline. The last batch of fish from the latest vessel to unload this day comes ashore at 17.45. Each fish is inspected for freshness and toro (fat) content. Fish are rejected or approved at this stage, and if approved will be sent by plane to Tokyo tonight. Each fish which is approved is weighed and packed into standard-sized cardboard “coffins”. These are then transferred to a waiting refrigerated truck, which shortly after is speeding on its way to Ngurah Rai international airport where its cargo is set for loading onto the 00.35 Garuda flight to Tokyo, arriving in Narita at 08.45 the following morning. During this day in Japan, the tuna shipment passes through customs and health checks, is then held in a large chilled storage room, which incidentally handles more tuna than

Bali tuna under the knife at Tsukiji fish market

Tuna fish at the auction in Tsukiji market, Tokyo

any other facility in the world, before being transferred by road to the Tsukiji wholesale market, Tokyo’s main wholesale market for fruit, vegetables and fish. The market opens every morning at 03.00, the trucks unload, and an hour before the auction starts the tuna fish are placed on the floor for inspection by the buyers. The auction gets under way at 05.20. The fish being sold from Bali are now between three to 10 days since being hauled from the warm tropical waters of the Indian Ocean. Before this day is out, it will be on the lunchtime or evening plate of a customer at a Tokyo sushi or sashimi diner. Back in Benoa, Bali, the crew are nearing the end of their two rest days and are preparing to head out tomorrow early morning to search for and land fresh sashimi-quality tuna again in about seven to 10 days’ time. There are over 850 such tuna longline vessels based at Benoa. This is the height of the Southern Bluefin tuna breeding season with their spawning grounds located to the South of Java. Though these fish range between the southern half of the Atlantic, Indian and Pacific Oceans, this is their only known breeding ground. Southern Bluefin tuna is one of three bluefin tuna species which span the oceans of the world. They are valuable, highly migratory pelagic fish. They are all long-lived, have a lengthy prematurity period of from 5 to 12 years and virtually life-long exposure to fishing pressure; each stock is slow to recover from depletion relative to other shorter-lived species, including most other species of tuna. Japanese and Australian fishermen have targeted SBT commercially since the 1950s. In 1961, a peak catch of

81,000 tonnes of SBT was landed by these two nations. The species was initially sold to tuna canneries, but the development of the fresh tuna market for sashimi and sushi in Japan over the past four decades has seen a major shift in the fishing and marketing of SBT and today it is primarily sold into this market. Despite the global catch of the SBT species being regulated since the mid-1980s, high levels of fishing have caused serious depletion of the adult stock. Scientific studies suggest that the spawning biomass may now be between 3% and 8% of its unfished level, and as a result the species is considered to be “critically endangered” by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN). In 2010, the body which manages only this resource, the Commission for the Conservation of SBT, for the first time in its twenty six year history, unanimously adopted a formal rebuilding strategy to allow SBT to recover to sustainable levels with its members committing themselves to recovering the SBT stock to an interim target of 20% of its unfished level by 2035, with new annual national allocations being adopted in 2011 for the fishing seasons 2012 through 2014. The increase in the global total allowable catch (TAC) was 2,000 tonnes over this three year period. The TAC for 2009 to 2011 at 9,449 tonnes was its lowest ever. Clearly, the managers of this valuable fish resource, primarily Australia, Japan and New Zealand, had consistently failed in their duty to conserve this resource for nearly 30 years. The global TAC for 2013 is 10,949 tonnes, of which Indonesia gets 707 tonnes (6.5%). Tokyo’s Tsukiji Market is the biggest wholesale fish and seafood market in the world and also one of the largest wholesale food markets of any kind. It has been called the fish market at the centre of the world given its importance in setting global prices for a range of fisheries products. Tsukiji market is listed as the number one attraction for foreign visitors to visit in Tokyo by Time Magazine. This Tokyo market handles more than 400 different types of seafood, weighing more than 700,000 tonnes with a total value in excess of Yen 600 billion/year (US$ 7 billion/year) —equivalent to over $20 million/ day. Registered employees varies from 60,000 to 65,000, including wholesalers, accountants, auctioneers, company officials, and distributors.

Figure A. Current exploitation status of tunas ranges from healthy (Albacore and skipjack tuna) in s.e. corner to heavily overexploited (Atlantic and Southern bluefin tuna) in the n.w corner where biomass is below the level to produce the maximum sustainable yield and fishing mortality is greater than the level to sustain the fishery. In detail, the four quadrant chart gives the exploitation status of different fish species. In the right lower quadrant, stocks are healthy (fishing mortality F is less than the maximum fishing mortality < Fmax; standing stock or adult biomass is greater than the minimum sustainable biomass > Bmin). Left upper quadrant stocks are overfished (F>Fmax; B<Bmin) with more fish being taken out than are replaced. Three bluefin tuna stocks are in this quadrant, namely, Atlantic bluefin tuna (East Atlantic and Mediteranean stock) whose catch is nearly three times the maximum sustainable level (F>>> Fmax) and its adult biomass is below that required for the population to be sustainable (B<<<Bmin). By comparison, Atlantic bluefin tuna (West Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico) and Southern bluefin tuna are approximately being two times overfished with their biomass also well below that required for sustainability (B<<<Bmin). Figure B. Overall fishing mortality rate for skipjack tuna, a most prolific breeder and the most resilient of the tuna species, has risen from very low levels in the 1950s to its current high of about 18% of the standing stock removed due to fishing, which is still a healthy level of fishing mortality.

Tsukiji market holds the record for the most expensive fish sold. For each of the past five years, a bluefin tuna has sold for a new world record price on the first day the market opens after the New Year. 2013 was no exception. “Bluefin tuna sells for record £1 million” - British Newspaper The Telegraph’s banner headline screamed. On 5th of January this year, a Pacific bluefin tuna was sold for a record 155.4 million yen (£1.09 million or US$1.82 million equal to over US$10,600/kg of fillet)—nearly three times the previous high set last year. The record sale comes as environmentalists warn that stocks of the majestic, speedy fish are being depleted worldwide amid strong demand for sushi. Japanese eat 80 percent of the bluefin tuna caught worldwide, and much of

the global catch is shipped to Japan for consumption. Stocks of all three bluefin species, Pacific, Southern and Atlantic bluefin, have fallen dramatically over the past 20 years amid widespread unreported, unregulated and illegal overfishing including fleets from EU countries and Japan. "Everything we're hearing is that there's no good news for the Pacific Bluefin tuna also," said Amanda Nickson, Director of the Washingtonbased Pew Environmental Group's global tuna conservation campaign. "We're seeing a very high value fish continue to be overfished… these poor species are being hit from every angle." ■ Seamus McElroy Seamus McElroy is an environmental consultant and University lecturer based in Bali.

BALI EXPAT ◆ 13th – 26th February 2013

To find out more about live stand-up comedy in Indonesia please e-mail jakarta@thecomedyclub.asia text or call (+62) 821 1194 3084 or register at www.thecomedyclub.asia

light entertainment

The Unfortunate Anagram by Eamonn Sadler

rian Warken was never going to win a Nobel Prize. He was the sort of guy you watched whenever he did anything just to see how badly it would go wrong. He was, however a very nice guy and a very hard worker so I didn’t mind having him as my driver’s mate when I was driving a delivery van part time in the late 80s. In fact Brian’s unique view of the world and the happenings within it very often provided a great deal of comic relief from the monotony of driving hundreds of miles every day delivering packages. I used to spend hours encouraging him to explain his take on global politics and pretending to learn from, and be impressed by his views. I have never exactly been a keen political analyst myself, but even I had a fairly good idea that most of Brian’s

armchair theories were nonsense. For example, I did not believe that Mikhail Gorbachev financed the rigging of the 1988 US presidential election, nor did I believe that he did it to enable George H. W. Bush to oust Ronald Reagan as President of the United States because Nancy Reagan once called Raisa Gorbachev a “Russian slut” at a state banquet – “and anyway, Gorbachev fancies Barbara Bush”. One of his even more outrageous beliefs was that Margaret Thatcher was in reality a man, and that her “so-called” husband Dennis was actually running the country behind the scenes on behalf of a bunch of power-crazed and moneyhungry international oil barons bent on world domination. Why Maggie had to be a man for the purposes of this theory I have no idea but it seemed important to Brian. He has

probably been promoted to senior driver’s mate by now. On Monday June 5th 1989 I arrived for work at 5am to start loading my van for the day’s deliveries. Many of my fellow drivers also preferred to load their own vans rather than leave it to a loading dock full of Brian’s because when you know the route well you can load the van in the right order and locate each package much more quickly and easily at each stop. The Brians would simply throw everything into the back of the right van (usually) and leave it at that. I remember the date so vividly because it was the Monday after the incredible and terrible Tiananmen Square massacre in Beijing, China that made worldwide headlines. Who can forget the iconic image of the

young Chinese protester stopping a column of tanks in its tracks by simply standing in front of it? The Chinese government maintains to this day that they never found the young man, but one train of logical thought might suggest that he quickly progressed from hero to martyr. Thousands of others did. It is also possible to envisage that the most glorious commander of the lead tank, who needed the assistance of a civilian on a bicycle to get his heavily armed war machine past the obstacle presented by a man with two plastic shopping bags, may have quickly become a fallen war hero. Or maybe the Chinese government forgave everyone and sent them a nice bunch of flowers each. Could’ve happened.

I finished loading the van just before 7am and I was in the canteen with the other drivers drinking coffee and talking about the awful events that had taken place over the weekend in Tiananmen Square, when I saw Brian drive into the car park in his old but immaculate souped-up Ford Escort Mark III. As he walked into the canteen he heard the tail end of our conversation and, as he poured himself a cup of coffee, he asked a question that caused coffee to come out of my nose. “Are you blokes talking about that Chinamen Square thing?” He then went on to espouse the theory that the whole protest had been engineered by Russian arms manufacturers to convince the Chinese that their tanks were crap and they should buy Russian ones. Classic Brian. ■

Name The Celebrity SMS your answer followed by "Bali" to:

081 199 9603 Answer: Marlene Dietrich and Charlie Chaplin

<<< Believe it or not, for the first time EVER, there were NO correct answers to last issue’s competition! See if you can spot the celebrity in this issue and send us your entry—you might win two FREE seats at our next comedy event!

Can you spot the famous person in this group of young athletes?

is made possible by:

For the

Macet Mind Across 5. Building in the garden (7,4) 7. Admiral killed "to encourage the others" (4) 8. Jolly (8) 9. Arrange cards - move awkwardly (7) 11. Lose feathers (5) 13. Old saw (5) 14. Clear (drains, etc) (7) 16. Precious metal (8) 17. Cut of meat (4) 18. Prescott men (anag) - awkward moment (11)

DOWN 1. Male beast (4) 2. Small flute (7) 3. "Best laid schemes. . .Gang aft ___" (Burns) (5) 4. Black stuff for burning or drawing (8) 5. With exotic colour pattern, (drug-induced, maybe) (11) 6. Deceive (an ally, maybe) (6-5) 10. Combat - contention (8) 12. Enliven (7) 15. Trap (with noose) (5) 17. Device with teeth - store for honey (4)

(Answers in the next edition!)

*Answers for Edition 16 ACROSS: 5. Poltergeist 7. Bang 8. Singular 9. Affable 11. Close 13. Drive 14. Copycat 16. Circular 17. Slew 18. Extravagant DOWN: 1. Clog 2. Beastly 3. Agent 4. Visually 5. Play for time 6. Transparent 10. Advocate 12. Journal 15. Clear 17. Snap

The Java Jazz Festival Quiz Scan the barcode and answer the 10 questions correctly for a chance to win two free daily tickets for Java Jazz Festival 2013 on Sunday 3rd March, 2013. Closing date: 19th February 2013.

Golf

13th – 26th February 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT

positive change in our homes, in our communities, and around the world. The Next Bali Spirit Festival is scheduled for March 20–24, 2013! But the radius of Bali Spirit extends way further than just 5 days! See the details below: * Tuesday March 12, 2013— Nyepi Celebration * Sunday March 17th—Pre Festival YogaThon at Desa Seni, Canggu/ Kerobokan (Beachside Bali) * Monday March 18th—Pre-Festival Launch Party in Ubud * Tuesday March 19th—Official Opening Reception for Invited Dignitaries * March 20–24th—Full on Festival * March 25th through April 6th— Post Festival events/retreats/ concerts all over the island

CHINESE NEW YEAR & VALENTINE GOLF TOURNAMENT 2013 Saturday, 16 February 2013 New Kuta Golf

E-mail: info@balispiritfestival.com Web: www.balispiritfestival.com

Registrations: Kawasan Pecatu Indah Resort, Jl Raya Uluwatu, Pecatu, Jimbaran, Bali Tel. (0361) 8481 333 Fax. (0361) 8481 400 E-mail: reservation@newkutagolf.com Web: www.newkutagolf.com RAKS BY THE SEA 2013 Fri, 12 Apr 2013–Sun, 14 Apr 2013 Mercure Resort Sanur, Jl. Mertasari, Sanur, Bali 80034 South East Asia's first Middle Eastern dance festival. Presenting 2013 Master Teacher...BOZENKA. Beautiful holiday location in the island of BALI Located in an amazing 4 star resort hotel with a adjoining white-sand beach, beautiful swimming pool with modern rooms and amenities. Don't miss this chance to join us for an amazing event!

EMERGING MUSIC STARS @ SERAMBI ARTS ANTIDA Sunday, 24 February 2013 Bar Luna Ubud Bali Performing live: Teddy, Talissa, Devy, Fendy, Gung Gus Antony, Hana, Melissa, Jeje FREE ENTRY! For more info: (+62) 361 286 725 Web: www.antidastudio.com

2013 Regional Teachers: Brancy Nekvapil (Malaysia) Christine Yaven (Indonesia) Fatema Redowan (Singapore) Sherlyn Koh (Malaysia) (Interested teachers for 2014, please contact us at raksbythesea@ gmail.com) Festival Schedule: Friday, 12 April 2013 10.00 Master Workshop— Bozenka Technique (3hrs) 13.00 Lunch 14.00 Regional Workshop 1 (2 hrs) 19.00 Opening Gala Show Saturday, 13 April 2013 10.00 Master Workshop— Oriental Choreography (3hrs) 13.00 Lunch 14.00 Regional Workshop 2 (2 hrs) 19.00 Competition & Open Stage Sunday, 14 April 2013 10.00 Master Workshop— Drum Solo Choreography (3 hrs)

BALI SPIRIT FESTIVAL Wed, 20 Mar 2013–Sun, 24 Mar 2013 44 Jalan Honoman Padangtegal, Ubud 80571 The Bali Spirit Festival is a vibrant and uplifting festival of yoga, dance, and music which awakens and nourishes each individual's potential for positive change within, leading to

Room for spouse or friend without workshop—USD330 (USD380 normal) • 8 Meals (Friday & Saturday: Full day, Sunday Half Day) • 2 Gala Dinner (Opening Show & Competition) • Morning & Afternoon Coffee (Workshop Days) * Early Bird Registration and Payment by 31st January 2013. * Extra night stay USD50 per night/pax inclusive of breakfast. NOTE: LIMITED SPACE, PLEASE REGISTER EARLY TO AVOID DISAPPOINTMENT Raks by South East Asia Bellydance Competition 2013: * No restriction of any form of oriental style and fusion. Use your own choice of music * Solo maximum 3 mins * Troupe Maximum 5 mins

Fees: Member: Rp 350,000 Member Guest: Rp 800,000 Indonesia Rsident/Kitas : Rp. 1.000.000 Visitor : Rp. 1.200.000

Festivals

Includes: • 9 Hours Master Workshops with BOZENKA • 4 Hours Regional Workshops • 8 Meals (Friday & Saturday: Full day, Sunday Half Day) • Morning & Afternoon Coffee (Workshop Days) • 2 Gala Dinner (Opening Show & Competition)

Fees: Residential Package—USD 530 Early Bird (USD 580 Normal) Includes: * 3 nights accommodation Superior Room (Twin-share) Check-in: Thursday 11 April 2013 Check-out: Sunday 14 April 2013 • 9 Hours Master Workshops with BOZENKA • 4 Hours Regional Workshops • 8 Meals (Friday & Saturday: Full day, Sunday Half Day) • Morning & Afternoon Coffee (Workshop Days) • 2 Gala Dinner (Opening Show & Competition) Non-Residential Package—USD 350 (USD 400 Normal)

COMPETITION FEE: * Solo : USD$30 * Troupe: USD$50 (For 2 to 6 dancers only) * Solo winner prize: USD$100 CASH, Medal and certificate * Troupe Winner Prize: USD$150 CASH, Medal and certificate * Both Solo & Troupe 1st, 2nd & 3rd runner up will be given a certificate. OPEN STAGE PERFORMANCE FEE: * Solo : USD$25 * Troupe : USD$40

Workshop

BALI TOURS—NYEPI BY DAVID METCALF Fri, 08 Mar 2013–Fri, 15 Mar 2013 Come and join New Zealand Travel Photographer of the Year, Mike Langford and New Zealand Professional Photographer of the Year, Jackie Ranken on a magical workshop in Bali in March 2013. “This is a photography workshop not just a tour. We share our knowledge to photographers of all levels. Under our watchful guidance you will learn new skills and techniques that will stay with you for the rest of your photographic life.” said Jackie. Jackie has also been the Australian Landscape Photographer Of The Year for the past two years and Mike has authored and co-authored over 25 books on photography in a 30 year career. This workshop will be a fantastic opportunity for beginners or experienced photographers to take their photography to another level in one of the most photogenic places on the planet. There will be ample time over the 7 days to tap into the genius and skill of Mike and Jackie and your photography is guaranteed to improve significantly from day one. Nyepi (the day of silence) is the most important day and special day on the Balinese calendar. Photographically speaking, it’s the days immediately before and after this day that are so visually exciting. This is a careful crafted photography workshop, which takes you inside the “real Bali” and has been designed to allow you to see and experience places in Bali that are very special (just for our group). This is a workshop not to be missed. Nyepi day (March 12) is preceded by ceremonies such as Melasti, which is a purification ceremony. You will get to witness Balinese Hindus carrying temple offerings and other sacred

relics to beaches or springs where purification rituals are held.

Sports

This is a time of celebration and the island is alive with dance and music. One day prior to Nyepi, Pengrupukan is celebrated. This is when the monster replicas, known as Ogah Ogah’s are paraded through the streets on the shoulder's of village youths who have spent several weeks preparing these very colourful displays. This is a feast for those with a photographer’s eye. Exploring ancient temples in the most historic area of Bali. Visiting Kusumba, a fascinating fishing village which provides the opportunity to photograph the traditional salt makers and the photographic wonders of capturing the colourful wooden fishing boats. Through David’s local contacts we have unique assess to an evening of traditional dance and music. The location of this performance is in the grounds of an ancient temple, seldom visited by Westerners. The highlight being amazing Kecak dance, followed by a dinner under the stars at the foot of an old Banyan tree, on the grounds of an ancient Balinese temple. This performance will be truly unforgettable and will be performed by special arrangement for our photography group, in the World Heritage Listed Pakerisan River area. Accommodation: The Puri Sunia. “one of the best hotels in Bali” (Trip Advisor Top Rating). Tucked away in the rice fields only 10 minutes drive from Ubud Village. Our friendly support team from 'Take it Easy Tours' provide the ground transportation and make every day very special. All of Dana's team are extremely knowledgeable about local lore, customs and the quintessential elements that make the Balinese so unique. We expect this workshop to fill up very quickly expecially since it is planned around the most special time of the year in Bali—Nyepi. Therefore, if you wish to sign up please put down a $ 500 deposit either via paypal or via direct credit to my bank account. Please e-mail me at davidmetcalf3@ mac.com for those details. Accounts in NZD,AUD,IDR,USD. Note that partners( non photographers) are very welcome and a special Itinerary will be provided for them which will include many Bali highlights. The partners are welcome to join in the dinners and social activities and the special ceremony at the Pejeng Village however will be precluded from joining the actual photo shoots and review sessions with Mike and Jackie. Pricing for the tour is as follows : * UDS$ 3,335 (double occupancy) * USD$ 3,860 (single occupancy) Special rate for partners USD$ 2,875 (based on double occupancy) This includes: * 7 nights accomodation at the beautiful Puri Sunia,Ubud * 5 Lunches and 4 Dinners * Special dance and music performance at village involving over 50 performers VIP Visitor arrival service * Pick from the airport on arrival and delivery back to the airport for departure * Specially decorated Sarongs for the tour and to keep as a souvenir * All ground transport whilst on the tour, E book with selection of the best of everyone’s images * Professional photographers and guides fees

BIZNET BALI INTERNATIONAL TRIATLON Sunday, 23 June 2013 * Olympic Distance Race 1.5km swim, 40km bike, 10km run * Sprint Distance Triathlon 500m swim, 20km bike, 5km run * Team relay for 2-3 athletes * 5km Fun Run * Pre Race Bike Tour with Balinese Bike Blessing * Race day party on the beach * Welcome cocktail Party * Carbo-Loading Dinner * Post-race Sunset Cocktail gathering at Ayana Resort and Spa * Games and lucky draws Register now at our website! Phone: (+62) 361 286 283 E-mail: info@balitriathlon.com Web: www.balitriathlon.com

Chinese New Year

CHINESE NEW YEAR GETAWAY @ BALI HARD ROCK HOTELS Fri, 01 Feb 2013–Thu, 28 Feb 2013 Jl. Pantai-Banjar Pande Mas-Kuta Enjoy a Chinese New Year Getaway in The Year Of The Water Snake • Room and breakfast* • Stay longer save more and enjoy great benefits* • Prepayment is mandatory* • No cancellation or amendment allowed* *General terms and conditions applies

Rate Includes: • Room accommodation with complimentary daily buffet breakfast for 2 adults and 2 children under 12 years old. • Welcome drinks upon arrival. Gift voucher at our outlets and use of Body Rock Fitness Centre including Sauna, Steam and Jacuzzi, priority admission to Hard Rock Cafe Bali. Complimentary One Time: • One way airport transfer for minimum stay of 2 consecutive nights, worth of US$ 15 ++. • US$ 50 F&B Credit (exclude Hard Rock Cafe) for minimum stay of 3 consecutive nights.

Please contact me via e-mail davidmetcalf3@mac.com International: (+62) 811 133 1255 Indonesia (local): 081 113 312 55

Terms & Conditions : • Minimum stay applies during certain periods. • Bedding request will be subject to availability of King size bedrooms or Queen size bedrooms. • For 3 persons in a King size bedroom—only accepts one extra rollaway bed. • Children below 12 years sharing with an adult on existing bedding—free of charge. Queen size bedrooms cannot take an extra bed. • Check in time is from 15:00 hours and check out time is at 12:00 hours. • Third person charge applies and includes daily buffet breakfast for one (1) person • A credit card number is required to confirm and guarantee the booking. Rates quoted are subject to 21% tax and service charge. • Hotel reserves the right to cancel or modify reservations where it appears that a customer has engaged in fraudulent or inappropriate activity or under the circumstance where it appears that a reservation contains or resulted from a mistake or error. Offer not valid with other promotional offers, packages or discounted rates. • Please do not hesitate to contact us at the following e-mail address; bookings@ hardrockhotels.net.

Contact us or please visit our Facebook for regular updates. For more info please visit: DAVID METCALF FACEBOOK www.davidmetcalfphotography.com

For more information: Phone: (+62) 361 761 869 Fax: (+62) 361 761 868 E-mail: bookings@hardrockhotels.net Web: www.bali.hardrockhotels.net

Does not Include: * Alcohol and tips * 30 day Visa or departure tax * International airfares

BALI EXPAT ◆ 13th – 26th February 2013

Classifieds are still FREE! Send in your classifieds to: ads@baliexpat.biz Next issue deadline: 20th February, 2013

Brand new 2 bedroom fully furnished villa w/pool in Kerobokan for rent. IDR 1,3 million daily, IDR 15 million monthly, all included, expat area, secured, private, 2-3 minutes from Lio Square/Seminyak. Contact: sandratotin@hotmail.com

Have something to sell? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Bali Expat!

Freehold land for sale in Nyanyi, very close to beach and Tanah Lot. 178 are, price IDR 135 mill/are. Good for building villa or resort. info: sandratotin@hotmail. com

Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 12,500 copies bi weekly. Classifieds: free of charge (50 words max) Send in your classifieds to: ads@baliexpat.biz

PROPERTY FOR SALE: my two Bukit villas- one price! Gorgeous 180 degree ocean views $995,000usd total. 16 are freehold land Unobstructed ocean views. Main Villa 1. 3br/3.5ba. Bale. Private Pool. Pool Deck Guest Villa 2—Round Villa. 1ba/1br. Private pool. Pool Deck contact me at: eniyao@hotmail.com LOMBOK: LUXURY BEACHFRONT VILLA FOR HOLIDAY RENTAL. 3 SUITES EACH WITH K.S BED, SPA BATH, TROPICAL SHOWER. WI FI, CABLE TELEVISION. ENGLISH SPEAKING STAFF. PROMO RATES AVAILABLE. Contact: +6281 246 400 246. Web: www.vervevillaslombok. com

Covered Parking. 5 Year Contract Only. Must See. CALL NOW 081-337-455-419 info@horizonglassworks.com UBUD LIGHTHOUSE! Sparkling new, modern, bright, spacious 2-floor, 3 ensuite bedrooms, open kitchen & living spaces, terraces, unfurnished property in central Ubud awaits a business, clinic or family seeking the perfect midtown location—combined with privacy, garden & carport. Five year lease. Available immediately. Contact 0821 4783 5711 or e-mail: ubudlighthouse@gmail.com Daily/ weekly/ monthly villa for rent 3 bedrooms full ensuite, AC, f/ furnished, nice pool, trop garden, end of quiet street, close to beach/Denpasar city centre/airport. please contact 081916241071 for more details.

TWO NEW BEACHFRONT DEVELOPMENTS on BALI. North Sanurprices $135,000usd to $299,900USD—20 year leases. Also- developer has released his personal villa to sell—3br/3ba, 6 are BEACHFRONT, FREEHOLD, $450,000usd. Developments 10 min from central Sanur. email for info: fyibtw@yahoo.com Amazing riveside views- Freehold villas for sale or long terms lease, 3BR with ensuite bathrooms, open kitchen+living, s. pool+garden. Inspect now-modern and brand new. Call: 0878 6076 9393 or austinone23@gmail.com Freehold land for sale in Bukit Ungasan. Good location and stunning views. Call 081 2380 2626. Please speak in Bahasa. FOR SALE SEMINYAK, Bali VILLA. $599,500aud freehold. 4br/4ba+maids. HUGE master overlooking private pool. Large kitchen. Fully furnished. Two car garage. 3are. PRIME LOCATION IN SEMINYAK. E-mail me at: babaswell@ yahoo.com Kost exclusive, strategic location. Facilities: AC, LCD TV 32”, hot water, refrigerator, kitchen set, full furniture, back terrace, carpark. IDR 225.000/day, IDR 1.100.000/week, IDR 1.800.000/ month. Casa Nemo; Jl. Palapa 11 Gg. Nemo No. 4 Sesetan Denpasar. Please e-mail: crescent.freija@yahoo.com or SMS: 0852 3754 2274 For sale - Prime teak wood Joglo House 9x11 meter, incl. land 5+7 Are facing rice field in Kerobokan, G. Salak Rd. Direct buyer only call 081 2389 5547 (office hours) Villa Sunset Wave—Medewi Beach Bali Oceanfront Home. INCLUDES:1800 sqm of land, 3 private bungalows & bathrooms, Infinity pool, Indoor/outdoor timber pavilion, New timber kitchen, Bangkirai timber decking, Insect screens throughout, Freehold Title deeds held in Sydney, Australia, Very friendly village atmosphere, Mesmerizing ocean views, International surf hotspot, Opportunity for yoga and artists retreat, Recently redeveloped to immaculate standard The option is yours… The perfect holiday home, investment portfolio, tropical paradise to develop your cottage style business plan, reinvent yourself or simply retire in the land of endless summer days and long striking sunsets. OCEANFRONT PROPERTIES LIKE THIS ARE EXTREMELY RARE IN BALI AND QUITE SERIOUSLY AN AFFORDABLE ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME OPPORTUNITY. Australian owners reluctantly selling due to the birth of new baby daughter and change in ‘parenting’ priority. EXCEPTIONAL VALUE: Offers of $495,000.00 and above will be considered! Full details at: www. sunsetwave.com Tel: (02) 9529-2473 Tel: 0417-289-400 – John Tel: 0417-656-098 -Milu- E-mail: sales@sunsetwave.com A Rare Find. Beautiful House for Rent in Penestanan. Established for more than 10 Years. 160 Sq. Meters. 2 Bedrooms 1.5 Bathrooms. Large Veranda Spacious Design. Huge Garden. Easy Access

Villa Damee. Beautiful three bedroom villa located in a peaceful, quiet and serene setting 10 minutes from Ubud. This is the real Bali authentic experience as the villa is situated in the Pakerisan Valley and surrounded by ancient temples. Newly listed, the owners are willing to offer special rates for KITAS owners. Can be rented as 1 or 3 bedrooms so ideal for couples or families. Please contact Dave Metcalf at info@villadamee.com or visit the website for more info. http://villadamee.com

JOBS (AVAILABLE) Boutique Hotel at Gili Trawangan Looking For General Manager, Restaurant/Bar Manager, Head Chef. Minimum 2 Years Experience Required, Fluent English and Computer Literate. Send CV to dreamtimeuk01(@)yahoo.co.uk or call Billy 0818 0556 5683 Need Staff for Orphanage. CV to aries@ careforkidsbali.com Looking for School Manager, Sanur Area. Must be able to teach and speak fluent English. Please email to: gustu@dps. centrin.id Visual Merchandiser. Childrenwear brand requires a talented & creative person to create store windows & inside displays. You need international experience, own transport, working permit, ability to design & draw. Freelance opportunity— Send your CV to: gmorabia@gmail.com, cc gm@dandelionkid.com. AquaMarine Diving—Bali Seminyak; Assistant to Director, Managerial skills; knowledge of small business a plus, Familiarity with social media and web preferred. Detail-oriented, hard-working, native English speaker, Efficient all-rounder with ‘can do’ attitude, Superb organisational skills and self-motivation, Excellent keyboard skills (Microsoft Office Suite), Proactive with strong administration background, Responsible, outgoing forward-planner, Marketing/tourism industry background advantageous. This is Not a working holiday position. Minimum 12mths commitment, 8hrs/day, 5.5days/wk. Send CV with expected salary and available start date to HRD@AquaMarineDiving. com ~ Must like dogs and be available for interview in Bali.

Lovely villa in joglo style, carved pillars, 2 big beds & office/TV room, all a/c and ensuite. Large marble patio with BBQ overlooking private pool with kiddy pool, well established gardens, cheap electricity. Land 524m2 / villa 176m2, 19 years lease land for sale at A$155,000 or long lease. Quiet area east of bypass, Sanur, Bali. Please call owner 081999404749

INDONESIA Operations General Manager (Expat/Local) Sanur - Bali General Manager (Expat/Local) Seminyak - Bali Group Head of IT (Expat/local) Bali Food & Beverage Service Director of Food & Beverage (Expat) Jakarta - Java Food & Beverage Manager (Expat/local) Jimbaran - Bali

Looking for tenant. One room available in my villa style house. Amenities, TV, AC, water heater, Wi-Fi, swimming pool, garden, washing machine, fridge, helper gas, electricity included. 7 mins from LIO Square Kerobokan, 12 mins from Petitenget. At Jalan Gunung Lumut Indah. SMS at 0819 1637 5748. 3,5 million IDR per month

Stunning breathtaking 2 bedroom villa w/pool in Kerobokan for yearly rent IDR 110 million/year (nego). Unfurnished,rice field surrounded, quiet area, secured, private, 10 minutes to Seminyak. Contact:sandratotin@hotmail.com

Looking for a job as int.recruiter in JKT or Bali. Experience in oil, gas and engineer. Speak: Dutch, English, German, Bahasa Indonesia and (beginn) Arabic. Motivated, flexible and directly available! For any vacancies send to: abusanti2012@gmail. com I am an experienced and responsible babysitter and child care provider based in Bali. If you are on vacation and need a night out, or time to go surfing or scuba diving, I can take care of your children —either at your hotel or at your activity location. I am a certified teacher, have CPR, First Aid and advanced lifesaving. I speak Spanish, French and English and am also a photographer who can take family portraits for you. Please feel free to contact me for more information. karlaheld@hotmail.com Cell in bali: 0813.5333.7568 I am an Australian arborist and horticulturist expert with 15 yr experiences, now resides in Bandung with family. If you need landscaping designer / consultant and vertical garden expert for house garden, office, commercial area, please contact: 085317381878.

AUTOMOTIVES

Kitchen Executive (Expat/Local) Nusa Dua - Bali Executive Sous Chef (Expat) Nusa Dua - Bali Chef De Cuisine (Expat) Nusa Dua - Bali Rooms GRO Japanese (Expat) Jimbaran - Bali Sales & Marketing National Director of Sales (Chinese Account) (Expat/Local) Bali Engineering Director of Engineering Consultant (Expat/Local) Sanur - Bali For more detailed job description and to apply online, please visit our website: www.globalexpatrecruiting.com

Looking for female reservationist, receptionist. Speak English, written and spoken, with good computer skill. We are on the Bukit Pecatu. Starting at 3million Rp per month. Contact : jbataillardbali@ gmail.com

2011 180cc Cherry-Red Baja Pulsar. Under 10K Km, never-dropped, great-condition, five-speed, great-gassaver, w/carry-box. 12.5 nego. Plz call Maya 085 6152 2016, nursari.maya@gmail.com For Sale or Trade; 1976 Vespa sprint 150 black. Will trade for VW Safari or older Jimmy. Call: Joe 0819 3433 5865

SERVICES Australian trained and registered Nutritionist & Naturopath conducting face-to-face & Skype consultations. Treating all health conditions naturally without drugs. www.kimberlykushner. com, kimberlydhyani@gmail.com Explore West Java and the Sunda Straits aboard Jakarta’s favorite livaboard the “Cecelia Ann”. Activities include diving, surfing, fishing, and trekking around Krakatau, Ujung Kulon and Panaithan Island. Trips depart from Anyer, maximum 10+PAX for overnight trips and 20 PAX for day cruises. Mid week specials available! Contact Kyle for more information. Phone: 082 111 616 030 E-mail:info@javaseacharters.com Wesite:www.javaseacharters.com PRIVATE SWIMMING TEACHER INITIATION & IMPROVEMENT ALL LEVEL & AGE IN BALI. LEO: 081338704319

OTHERS 3500 kva petrol Genset in top condition. Price 3,7 juta. Sanur. 08199940474

For Sale: Honda motorbike for sale. 1969, Electric starter run. Tyre back Firestone deluxe champion. Price :28.000.000 Papers available: bpkb stnk Contact: Leo. Number: 081239996505. See bike at rumble girl shop jl raya batubulan

Daihatsu Terios Adventure, April 2012, auto, white, 7800 klm, as new, sell Rp199million, Ph/SMS 081 236 091 964 Urgent Sale—Honda CRV 2.4 AT 2008, Kijang Innova 2.0 2009, Hyundai H-1 Elegance 2011 Gasoline. Call: 081 2380 2891

YOUR BEST CHOICE FOR HOSPITALITY RECRUITMENT & EXECUTIVE SEARCH

FOR SALE:Unique beautifully designed eco-lodge in CANGGU(built 2009). Located in a quiet green tropical area next to a small floating river.Excisiting of 4 seperate lodges, 1 lodge with large living space, tastefull decorated with vintage European quality furniture and luxurious architect-designed kitchen,3 lodges containing a huge bedroom and bathroom.Surrounded by a royal measured 20-Are tropical garden and a 17-meter lap pool.15 Minutes from Seminyak and 10 minutes to Canggu and Echo Beach. USD 295.000 nego,leasehold-16 years (extendable) Photos & info: canggulodge@hotmail.com

LOOKING FOR WORK

For Sale; Collection of old photograph of 1890s. Old documentation of Dutch colonialism in South African country. Documentary of native tribe of Zulu, Traditional royal family, etc. E-mail: antok_256@yahoo.com, 081 855 6915. Cute, healthy, vaccinated pups for adoption from Bali Adoption Rehab Centre BARC call Linda 081 855 0947 Free: Looking to find a good home for a little pit-bull mix puppy. Very sweet character. Please call Avi on 0813 3778 5666 Save a Bali puppy today! Loveable puppies desperately looking for temporary foster homes. Contact BAWA (0361) 977 217.

13th – 26th February 2013 ◆ BALI EXPAT