Bali Expat - Issue 13 – Travel

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Bali Expat­­ ­◆ 5th – 18th December 2012

Indonesia's Largest Expatriate Readership

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13th Edition

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5th – 18th December 2012

The World is Your Oyster, by Ben Beiske

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5th – 18th December 2012 ◆ Bali Expat­­­

Dear Readers

IN THIS 13TH ISSUE:

13th Edition | 5th – 18 th December 2012

East of Bali Nusa Lembongan & Nusa Penida: Jump into Bali's Past (3)

Editor in Chief Angela Richardson angela@baliexpat.biz

History Colonies: Dutch East Indies vs. British India (4)

Management Edo Frese edo@baliexpat.biz

Art of the Indies Forbidden Love Part 3: Girls Will Have Fun (6) Travel is what brought most of you here; the desire to see the world, experience different cultures, languages, sights, sounds, smells and escape the dreariness of routine. What once was an extreme privilege is becoming more and more accessible, with more low-cost airlines and accommodation available than ever before.

This is both a good and a bad thing. Positive in that people are becoming more global and understanding of different cultures, and negative because some places are being overexploited. Some people I’ve spoken to would like to see other parts of Indonesia focus on tourism in order to take the attention away from Bali a little.

Editorial Assistant Silvia Forsman silvia@baliexpat.biz Sales Dian Mardianingsih ads@baliexpat.biz Silvia Forsman silvia@baliexpat.biz Distribution Dian Mardianingsih dian@baliexpat.biz Graphics Frederick Ng fred@baliexpat.biz Finance & Admin Pertiwi Gianto Putri tiwi@jakartaexpat.biz Lini Verawaty lini@jakartaexpat.biz

I recently was in the Komodo National Park, only an hour’s flight from Bali, and one can see the development introduced here to attract more visitors since the national park was awarded the prestigious title of a New Seven Wonder of Nature earlier this year. The airport at Labuan Bajo is under construction, and works will provide travellers with more than the single roof it has now for shelter. Although there

Contributors Bruce W. Carpenter Karen Davis Tess Joyce Tasha May Francesco Ricciardi Hans Rooseboom Eamonn Sadler Editorial Enquiries letters@baliexpat.biz Circulation Enquiries info@baliexpat.biz

aren’t too many liveaboards visible from any one spot on the seas, you can see that more and more dive boats, often carrying day trippers from the mainland, are populating the area during dry season, which is the best time to visit. The Komodo Park itself (on Rinca island) is well-maintained and clean, where visitors have the rare opportunity to take walks and witness these majestic reptiles up close in the wild. With good management, this national park will hopefully remain pristine, both above and below land and will be a destination on many travellers' lists from all over the world. It is a gem where one can still feel absolute serenity and far from civilization - a true rarity.

Observation The Offline World of Raja Ampat(8)

Meet the Expat Albert Kok (10) Island Hopping Belitung Island: Indonesia's Hidden Paradise (12) Light Entertainment I'd Rather be Playing Pool (13) Events (14) Classifieds (15)

Spotted Pic

This issue we bring you some travel stories from around Bali and beyond and encourage you to book your next holiday soon.

Everybody deserves some time to relax and you mustn't forget the reason why you came to Bali in the first place...

Close Up of Petani. Photo by Shelly Smith

Send in your Spotted Pics to info@baliexpat.biz!

Subscription subscriptions@baliexpat.biz Events events@baliexpat.biz Bali Expat is published bi-weekly by PT. Koleksi Klasik. Opinions expressed in this publication are those of the writers and the publisher does not accept any responsibility for any errors, ommisions, or complaints arising there from.

No parts of this publication can be reproduced in whole or in part, in print or electronically without permission of the publisher. All trademarks, logos, brands and designs are copyright and fully reserved by PT. Koleksi Klasik Indonesia.

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Bali Expat­­ ­◆ 5th – 18th December 2012

East of Bali

NUSA LEMBONGAN & NUSA PENIDA

Jump into Bali's Past WORDS AND PHOTOS BY FRANCESCO RICCIARDI

Crystal Bay

Walking around the touristic area of Bali, surrounded by the noise of horns and a thousand motorbikes, anesthetized by car fumes and chased by various kinds of sellers, with their hypnotic refrain, “Transport, yes?” I normally find myself thinking about this paradise island that some of the long-time expats are used to describing in front of a beer, or two, at their favourite bar. I think about streets with few cars, maybe some horse-drawn wagons, no electricity and telephone, wonderful quiet beaches and smiling people, and I really dream about building a time machine to have the possibility to have a look by myself, for just a few hours.

Science is running fast, but probably not fast enough to bring people back in time. So, the only alternative is to find a place, in modern Bali, where we can glimpse the past. Maybe in some little villages in the North, or in some remote mountain areas, time has stopped, or at least slowed down. Another alternative is to take a boat and visit the three islands of Nusa Lembongan, Nusa Ceningan and Nusa Penida.

Lembongan is quite famous as a tourist destination, especially for surfers and divers, and nowadays it’s not very different from mainland Bali, with the great advantage of the almost total absence of cars. Walking from the main village, Jungutbatu, following the road in direction to the Mangrove forest, a few local houses inhabited by seaweed farmers resist to the growing touristic business.

Many of them have no electricity, overlooking the ocean and seaweed plantations, still living like their ancestors did, or at least “modernity” has not yet invaded their lives. If you walk around their village when it’s already dark, it’s not uncommon to see them still working on their seaweed, left drying under the sun during the day. Their daily rhythm is strongly influenced by the tide: when the tide is low, seaweed farms are more easily accessible.

Considering the speed of touristic development in Lembongan, probably this rural village won’t remain there for long, so hurry up if you want to visit it.

Nusa Ceningan, a small island connected to Lembongan with a small bridge, has a couple of interesting surf breaks and nice views on the southern cliffs.

But if you really want to jump into the past, your destination is Nusa Penida, the largest island of the three. Very few tourists land on this 200 square km

"Lembongan is quite famous as a tourist destination, especially for surfers and divers, and nowadays it’s not very different from mainland Bali, with the great advantage of the almost total absence of cars."

Seaweed Farming

HOW TO GET THERE Nusa Lembongan is easily connected to mainland Bali. Fast and slow boats leave everyday from Sanur Beach to Jungutbatu and, during the high touristic season, to Mushroom Bay. Local villagers usually use other routes coming from Kusamba and Padang Bai: just remember to check the weather first, as safety is not exactly the main strength of these boats.

It’s possible to reach Nusa Penida both from Bali (speed boats from Sanur, slow boats from Benoa, Padang Bai and Kusamba) and from Nusa Lembongan. Chartered small boats from Jungutbatu or the bridge of Nusa Ceningan are always available, and often the boat driver can help you find a motorcycle to rent in Nusa Penida. Always bargain, as the starting price is always at least doubled. Current information is available easily in touristic offices or on wikitravel.org.

island, probably because the infrastructure is very limited.

Some cheap homestays and basic accommodations are available in the main villages (Toyapakeh, Ped and Sampalan) but don’t expect luxury.

The lack of infrastructure and, above all, the absence of freshwater keep local and foreign investors far from Penida. And it’s really a shame — or maybe the salvation of the island’s authenticity — because the natural wonders of Penida are astonishing and incredibly various. The north coast, from Toyapakeh to Buyuk, has a long white sandy beach (even if in some places the road, built too close to the sea, has already caused the erosion of the beach) with a worldwide-know coral reef, hosting about 600 species of

fish and 250 species of coral. In particular, the dive site in front of Toyapakeh is an incredible coral garden with plenty of healthy hard coral and fish.

The seaweed farms occupy a large part of the North Penida coast and are the main source of income to the inhabitants of the island. The limestone cliffs of the South, constantly beaten by huge waves, offer a dramatic view of the Indian Ocean. Getting there is very difficult, the area is remote, the roads almost inaccessible, and even locals are not always able to indicate the right direction. But it’s definitely worth it to find the adventurer in you. Consider also the possibility of camping in the area: if you have the necessary equipment, it could be a wonderful experience. Just be sure to have everything you

need with you: even hand phones don’t usually work in this area.

Crystal Bay, a must for many divers, is another destination worth seeing. It’s weird to notice that, even if many diving boats head to Crystal Bay on a daily basis, very few people actually disembark on the beach, and you can find yourself alone on a white wonderful tropical beach, like the first tourist in Bali 30 years ago. From a diving point of view, Crystal Bay is one of the best spots to see Oceanic Sunfish (Mola mola) during their annual

migration, from June to October.

Just take care; Crystal Bay is not a destination for beginners, due to the unpredictable currents and the cold water.

If you want to see something different in the sea, the Goa Karang Sari (Karangsari Cave, near Sampalan) offers an impressive view of stalactites and other limestone formations. But if you really want to feel this glimpse of old Bali, rent a motorbike, take the bumpy road, and get lost on the island. ■

FRANCESCO RICCIARDI Francesco Ricciardi is a freelance photographer and journalist based in Bali. PhD in Marine Biology and diving instructor, he uses his camera to uncover the wonders of Indonesian marine and terrestrial wildlife. His website: www.francescoricciardi.com

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5th – 18th December 2012 ◆ Bali Expat­­­

History

COLONIES

Dutch East Indies vs. British India

BY HANS ROOSEBOOM

"Mappe Monde a Pusage du Roy Par Guillaume Delisle Premier Georgaphe de S.M" by Guillaume Delisle, circa 1730.

Courtesy of Bartele Gallery Jakarta.

Examining a map of the world, preferably a globe, one cannot but wonder how a few nations, occupying but a tiny fraction of the world, were able to colonise the rest of the planet, or nearly so. I am talking here about Portugal and Spain, the Netherlands, England, France and Belgium. Germany played a negligible role with only German East Africa (Tanzania) and the present PNG under its control for a limited time. Belgium took a chunk out of Central Africa (now the Democratic Republic of Congo), while France established a presence in Indochine and a few regions in Africa.

The main players were Portugal, Spain, the Netherlands and England. Portugal was first out of the colonising starter blocks pioneering the sea routes to the east rounding the Cape of Good Hope, as well as westward via the Strait of Magellan.

The Dutch followed several decades later. Their main interest (of the Dutch East Indies Company) was to get their hands on part, or all, of the lucrative spice trade, which was controlled by the Portuguese. So, after having obtained the information on the sea routes to the East, Dutch naval power was used to attack the Portuguese strongholds and fortresses on the route to the source of nutmeg, mace and cloves.

Though the strategy was successful and a spice trading monopoly was established, the Dutch soon faced strong competition from England's growing maritime interests. The rivalry between the two nations led, during the second half of the 17th century, to a number of Anglo-Dutch wars, and culminated, in the early years of the 19th century, in a British take-over of Java and Amboina.

The year was 1811 and Thomas Stamford Raffles was appointed as Lieutenant-Governor of Java.

The British interregnum lasted five years only. But because the British, or should I say Raffles' approach to, and appreciation and understanding of the indigenous populations was so very different

A game of tennis, anyone…?

from the Dutch colonial attitude, the period stands out as a breath of fresh air. Of course, Raffles came shortly after Daendels had been Governor-General of the East Indies. Daendels had achieved an engineering feat— the construction of the Great Post Road, 1,000 km from the west of Java to Panarukan in the east—within one year and within budget… but at the cost of thousands of lives.

Daendels had been firm with the Javanese rulers (a rather lenient description of his demeanour) and had subjected the population to forced labour. No wonder Raffles was welcomed with open arms.

Raffles was clearly an exceptional person. First and foremost he was

a visionary, and together with his wide ranging field of vision, he was approachable, engaging and open to information about the people and cultures of Java and neighbouring regions. But was he a representative sample of the British colonial attitude?

In other words, were most of the British colonial administrators of the same hue? An important point as we want to compare the British with the Dutch colonial system. We have seen that Raffles provided a respite from the Dutch rule, but would any of his colleagues and compatriots have done the same? To attempt an answer to that question, let's have a quick look at the jewel in the British colonial crown: India.

In a similar fashion as the Dutch VOC in Indonesia, it was a trading corporation, the East India Company, which established a presence on the Indian subcontinent in the early 1600s.

English traders set up outposts on the Indian coasts, which would eventually become the cities of Bombay, Madras, and Calcutta.

With an apology to those who shudder at generalisations, I will try to describe the British and the Dutch colonial systems with a few wide strokes of my very broad brush.

While starting from the same trading bases, the systems were quite different. Take for instance education. Under the British Raj (reign), in the first half of the

19th century, using tax money, thousands of elementary and secondary schools were opened, as well as the universities of Calcutta, Bombay and Madras.

And by 1890 some 60,000 Indians had matriculated, chiefly in the liberal arts or law.

About a third entered public administration, and another third became lawyers. The result was a very well educated professional state bureaucracy. By contrast the Dutch established the first technology-orientated university, the Bandung Technological Institute, only in 1920. And as far as primary and secondary education was concerned, only a few privileged Indonesians were accepted into the Hollandse School.

As regards physical infrastructure, India started to build a dense network of railways in the late 19th century, which became the fourth largest in the world. In the Netherlands Indies, the line from Batavia (Jakarta) to Surabaya was completed in 1894. And although eventually the total number of kilometres of railway lines on Java was quite impressive, it did not constitute an integrated network.

And in the sphere of social life and human interactions one of the main differences between the two systems was that British wives were an official part of colonial life. For Dutch colonial civil

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Bali Expat­­ ­◆ 5th – 18th December 2012

Government House and Treasury, Calcutta

servants and also for employees of private companies, rules against the bringing of wives to the colonies were relaxed only after 1870. With the arrival of Dutch wives, the social behaviour of colonial society changed dramatically. Where once the nyai had the status of a common law wife, she now became a concubine and was relegated to the back of the house. By contrast, the British colonists, through the women, built an "Anglo-Indian" society within India, and English customs were adapted to the climate of India.

Another major difference is due to the contrast in scale of the two countries, their economic, social and cultural histories, and the outlook and character of its citizens. Where the English upper class consisted of landed nobility, the Dutch were traders, residing in narrow houses (taxes were levied per metre of house frontage) along the Amsterdam canals. However attractive Amsterdam is as a tourist destination, the canal houses lack the grandeur of the stately homes of London.

References: Wikipedia, The British Raj, and Dutch East Indies Google Earth

Presidential Palace, Bogor

This narrowness is also reflected in the Dutch colonial attitude to the indigenous people. Where the Dutch were obsessed with profit making, the British ingrained sense of superiority did make it easier to appear generous to the colonised—by providing education, for instance. And after 1858, the very well organised, well-educated and professional Indian Civil Service was opened to Indians.

"Daendels had been firm with the Javanese rulers (a rather lenient description of his demeanour) and had subjected the population to forced labour. No wonder Raffles was welcomed with open arms."

This difference in outlook can also be seen in the buildings erected by the two colonisers, the British style more opulent. Compare, for example, the Government House in Calcutta with the Palace in Bogor, originally built for the Governor General and now used by the President.

Of course England also had its share of problems and problematic administrators in India. But in general it appears that the British left more behind and were more concerned with the welfare of the

local inhabitants than the Dutch.

Right, that might well be correct, but what is the implication for the present, the end of 2012. Both countries, Indonesia and India, are developing countries of the mid-income group. Both are confronting the problems caused by a creaking infrastructure, poverty and corruption, in their respective ways.

And both have made great progress since obtaining independence from their colonial masters.

Apparently the Daendels and Raffles have, in the long run, not mattered all that much. ■

HANS ROOSEBOOM Hans Rooseboom is a long term resident of Jakarta. He has visited nearly all of Indonesia's provinces and worked for many years in Ambon, Aceh, Manado and a number of smaller and larger towns on Java. He now enjoys a leisurely life, playing tennis most mornings and writing his blogs and other articles. He can be reached at hans_rooseboom@yahoo.com.

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5th – 18th December 2012 ◆ Bali Expat­­­

Art of the Indies

FORBIDDEN LOVE: PART 3

GIRLS WILL HAVE FUN

BY BRUCE W. CARPENTER

“Music melts all the separate parts of our bodies together.”

When it comes to cross-cultural amorous relationships, cavorting male artists have gotten most of the attention and a bad rap to boot.

While trysts between women and the locals are rare, or at least have been little spoken of, the truth is that just like the rite of passage of Australian and Japanese girls and Balinese lovers, they do exist.

If you dig deep enough, there are a significant number of cases of older western women with young local studs.

Anaïs Nin, the Franco-Cuban feminist who was the lover of Henry Miller and author of groundbreaking erotic books, dealing with hitherto taboo subjects, best describes the sensual allure of Balinese males to western females — “Men… have honey-coloured skins, glossy black hair, and dazzling smiles”.

Apparently Anaïs was focused upon one particular man, Subudi, a handsome young guide who accompanied her day (and night) during a visit she made to the island in the early 1970s. In, “Spirit of Bali”, published in the January 6th, 1975 edition of New York City’s avant-garde newspaper, the Village Voice, she longingly describes her companion who apparently sought to please her in every way: “Subudi with his oriental slanted eyes, his good profile, his dazzling white teeth, his soft black curled hair…He was like the Spirit of Bali itself, like the bamboo xylophone, delicate and muted…

His gentleness and soft ways… stayed with me”.

Ms. Manx or K’Tut Tantri (only two of her many pseudonyms) was an earlier aficionado of Balinese studs. Although she portrays herself as a chaste innocent girl constantly being wooed by an endless line of Balinese suitors, including several handsome princes in her controversial biography, Revolt in Paradise, in reality she seems to have had a libertine attitude towards crosscultural sex. According to internal colonial government reports made to expedite her deportation she was a “…woman of low morals… a nudist”.

While these may have been biased by the Calvinist attitudes of the Dutch bureaucracy, any suggestion of platonic relationships is shattered by her casual remark to the Italian artist, Emilio Ambron, that “at my age and with my looks you take your pleasures where you can get them”. In a recent book The Romance of K’tut Tantri by Timothy Lindsay, one chapter is titled “Playgirl or Resistance Fighter?”

Anaïs Nin, Delta of Venus, Erotica 1977.

Robert Koke, Bali's first surfer.

Anaïs Nin, the Franco-Cuban

As today, many expatriates in Bali before the Second World War, including Ms. Manx, had apparently come to the Island of the Gods in search of an identity and income. The favourite default categories in the era were artist or writer and she chose the former (she would only reincarnate herself as an author after the war). Few of her paintings have survived and those that have raise little more excitement than a yawn. Some people were polite and others simply described her paintings as untalented.

Persistent in every way, she tried to ingratiate herself into the elite circle of Walter Spies, who once described her as awful. Ambron, who described her as the ugliest and most detested expatriate woman on the island, found her blunt, manipulative character amusing in small doses.

Others were less fortunate. Robert and Louise Koke, a talented photographer and painter, met her soon after they checked into the luxury Bali Hotel in Denpasar.

Robert was an athletic and dashing young chap who worked in Hollywood when he met his beautiful unhappily married soulmate, Louise. After their torrid affair was exposed, they fled to Asia in 1938 with no plan other

than to avoid the scandal and have fun. Their arrival in Bali was a complete fluke. After arriving in Hong Kong they went to Thomas Cook to book a trip to Angkor Wat. The agent recommended the hottest new destination — Bali — because it was rainy season in Cambodia. One glance at the exotic photos of the island of bare breasted beauties was enough to win them over.

A week later they found themselves on the veranda of their room at the luxurious Bali Hotel when Ms. Manx introduced herself as an artist and Bali expert. At the time Manx was one of a host of expatriates cruising the hotel and tourist haunts in hope of bumping into a naïve newcomer to whom they could hawk anything from an “insider’s tour”, cheap accommodation and, of course, art and antiques. She found herself to be a receptive host to the Kokes who fell in love with the island and decided to build a fantasy South Seas beach hotel to compete with the staid European atmosphere of the colonial establishments.

Manx, in a sense became the island’s first expatriate real estate agent. She took Robert and Louise on a tour. When they reached Kuta Beach, somewhere near today’s Peanuts Club, Robert, who had become an avid surfer after working as an assistant director for the King Vidor film “Bird of Paradise” (1932) starring Dolores del Rio, became the first man to notice that the beautiful waves breaking on the Kuta Reef were world class.

Everyone was so happy that they asked Manx to join them as partners in the project.

The story of him ordering surfboards and the building of Kuta’s first hotel is the subject of Louise’s entertaining book Our Hotel in Bali. Written in 1942, but

published after the war, it tells the entire story but with no mention of Manx. The reason for Louise’s silence is twofold. While they were in Java arranging their visa, Manx attempted to unsuccessfully seize the property for herself. They were so traumatized by her betrayal that they expurgated her from their memory. Secondly, their lawyers warned them that K’Tut, a nasty work with connections and a bad reputation, might bring litigation against them.

Robert would only speak about the matter when I interviewed him in 1994 when he came to Bali to donate his photos and Louise’s paintings to the Neka Museum in Ubud. Physically frail and nearly blind, but with a mind and memory as sharp as a razor, he described Manx’s antics with Balinese boys eager to check out the physical attributes of a European woman even if she was an ugly old tart.

The Kokes were not the only ones with an axe to grind with Manx.

After the Japanese invasion, Manx developed an extremely close relationship with the Japanese and was even said to live with one officer. According to Maria Hofker, Manx approached her and offered help as the situation got worse and it looked more likely she and her husband, Willem, would be sent to a prisoner of war camp.

Maria gave her a cache of her husband’s paintings to safeguard.

Later they discovered she carried them to Surabaya, removed Hofker’s signatures, affixed her own and held an exhibition of her latest work which she sold to the Japanese officers.

The more tawdry colonial literature is riddled with stories of western women falling in love with natives usually with disastrous results — embarrassing pregnancies, being sold into slavery and death. While less prominent and less known, the magnetic attraction of the forbidden has smitten both sexes.

While it all seems quite normal nowadays, the old stereotypes seen in the paintings of Ashley Bickerton are still alive and well. ■

BRUCE W. CARPENTER Author and noted Indonesian art expert, Bruce W. Carpenter has authored and coauthored more than 16 books and scores of articles on the art, culture and history of Indonesia. His most recent was Antique Javanese Furniture and Folk Art.

Bali Expat­­ ­◆ 5th – 18th December 2012

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5th – 18th December 2012 ◆ Bali Expat­­­

Observations

The Offline World of

Raja Ampat A trip to the iconic but secluded region of Wayag in Raja Ampat brings out the best and the worst in us.

WORDS AND PHOTOS BY TESS JOYCE

A tourist steadied himself with his fingers as he wobbled towards the back of the boat. “Hey,” he smiled at a Swiss man and Brazilian woman, who stared at him blankly. There was clearly an invisible bubble encasing this couple that nobody was allowed to breach.

Although I wouldn’t return with them, I’d hear about their misdemeanours, whilst stranded on my way back to the island of Waigeo, later that night. We were a group of one hundred tourists, divided into four boats. It was a practically free trip to Wayag — an iconic series of islands in the archipelago of Raja Ampat in West Papua. An area famed for his rich coral reefs. Yet of the province’s 610 islands, Wayag was the place that most tourists came to see for its beautiful mushroom-shaped islands, hovering over a stretch of turquoise sea and sunbleached sand.

We’d paid for a PIN to enter the area, one of Conservation International (CI)’s protected locations, but the transport was free, organised at Raja Ampat’s cultural festival

held every October. Our first destination after a four-hour boat ride from Waigeo was CI’s post, where huge bia shellfish and black-tip sharks abounded.

Amazed by the latter, my husband and I decided we’d stay at the post rather than continuing to the puncak — the famous peak in Wayag, where tourists often climb to take scenic shots.

On the beach of the CI station, a small group of Indonesian tourists, weighed down by their cameras, asked if they could take a photo with me. Being obnoxious, I always refuse to smile if a stranger asks for my photo. “Smile,” they commanded, to which I grimaced.

I like to imagine that my miserable-self is wafting on a few of their Facebook profiles at this very moment. Perhaps it’s better to be honest — refuse to be food for the narcissistic monster — say no, no photo — but I didn’t.

The Captain insisted he would pick us up in the afternoon, so we joined two couples from Germany and the UK, who were staying on CI Island, for a chat.

Their group had formed at a hotel in Sorong on the mainland and they’d taken a tour of Wayag — sleeping overnight on the sand of CI’s island, although they

explained, rooms were available there for 400,000 IDR per night.

The British couple, brimming with adventure, were on a diving holiday in Papua. They recounted stories about their passion for the region’s underwater wildlife such as manta rays, turtles, dugongs, orcas and dolphins. We didn’t have long to chat as they were soon summoned for a lunch of eggnoodles.

We proceeded with our search for the sharks and got lucky. A black-tip, as relaxed as the British and German tourists, sauntered past us as we stood in the shallows - being at most, just one metre away. Feeling elated by what we had seen, we waited for one of our party’s speedboats to dock.

Since the guests complained that, “there wasn’t enough room,” my husband, who later regretted the act, climbed onto the roof; while one friendly dread-clad guy from Sorong, offered to share a bench with me.

The waves of Wayag are notoriously wild. When our engine faltered for the first time, my shaking husband scrambled down and described how he had almost lost his grip and was suspended, rodeo-style, with each leap of the boat. As we waited for the crew

to empty the engines of water, I realised that the man from Sorong was in fact wearing a Bob Marley-style hat with attached dreads. He raised our spirits with stories about the Swiss-Brazilian couple. Wearing just sandals, they were unwilling to climb the rocky peak and complained that no one had advised them to bring suitable shoes. The irritated Brazilian woman had insisted that she would inform the Brazilian tourism board and would warn her countrymen about Indonesia. Our Bob Marley joker explained how he’d apologised on “behalf of all Indonesians” to the couple. We all burst into giggles, lightening the mood – for one of the engines was now dead. We moved slowly into Kabui Bay — the halfway point of our journey.

The day was closing and I was awoken by the rapid sounds of snapping cameras. Each one was focused on the glowing-red sunset.

Everyone had abandoned their seat and each person was scrambling for position to take not one photo, but a manic series. Not one person watched the sun without a lens and after it disappeared beneath the waves, they flopped onto their seats and flicked through their collection, rejoicing and regretting.

As it grew dark, glowing plankton

lit the waters. To our left, we saw fishermen in four lanternlit boats, attracting squid with their lights and scooping them up with nets. The man from Sorong, taking a photo of the plump moon, searched for reception in order to update himself online, but didn’t succeed. In fact, even in the capital of Raja Ampat — Waisai in Waigeo, my husband and I had been living for months without reliable internet access — deprived of feedback from uploaded photos, in the form of likes and comments. Forced to wean ourselves off it, like junkies, we felt clearer – as if our sense of self could become simple again.

We finally docked at midnight.

Luckily transportation was waiting for us and thanking the brave crew, we slumped into the back of the truck, each of us cocooned in a sleepy bubble. As we returned to the town of Waisai, an older man, steadying himself, took photos of the grumpy crowd. “Not now. Please. Not now,” someone called from the back. But the man continued, pressing and releasing, as if he believed that finally, he’d capture a moment that could explain it all. ■

TESS JOYCE Tess Joyce lives on an island in Raja Ampat at the moment.

Tess is a writer from the UK with a little boat and two paddles who enjoys exploring the seas and corals there.

Bali Expat­­ ­◆ 5th – 18th December 2012

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5th – 18th December 2012 ◆ Bali Expat­­­

Meet the Expat

General Manager of Panorama Destination Management and an advocate for change and growth.

BY KAREN DAVIS

What is the Panorama Group?

The Panorama Group, or more commonly known as Panorama Tours, was created

by Mr. Adhi Tirtawisata forty years ago in a small venue with limited staff and resources.

Nowadays it is a collaboration of companies focused on Tourism, Transportation and Hospitality.

We are dedicated to innovation, excellent services and sustainable values to the community and the environments where we operate. There are four main areas of operations, which are: Panorama Hotel Management, Transportation, which includes bus and taxi companies like White Horse and White Horse Premium Cab. The Day Trans Executive Shuttles offer something better than public transportation, thus lowering the carbon footprint of personal transport for discerning commuters and travellers.

The third area is Destination Management, which is the area I work in. And the last area is outbound destination for Indonesian nationals travelling out of the country, which is a huge growing market.

What does destination management involve?

We handle everything for overseas clients, working with travel agencies in other countries. They handle international flights and we handle all aspects for tourists from the minute they arrive until they leave. That’s my

responsibility. We work with all the major hotels, creating full vacation packages, seminars and incentives. Our clients are predominantly European, Canadian and domestic. It sounds simple but we handle several tens of thousands of guests per year. Our work all comes down to exceeding the client’s expectations.

Without extensive preparation and understanding of the client’s needs, you fail. Attention to detail is crucial and everyone in the office knows my motto: Check, check, double check. Nobody is allowed to make assumptions. When in doubt, ask. So the most important part of our job actually takes place long before arrival.

So, tell me about your background…

I grew up in Bloemendaal, near Haarlem in the Netherlands. As a child I remember hearing stories at the dinner table about the first charter flights to Spain and things like that. My father was in tourism all of his working life, so it runs in my blood. After my studies I decided not to pursue a career as an accountant and I joined the company that my dad was running. It was specialized in Indonesia and that’s when my love for this country really settled in. From there I climbed up the ladder with large travel agencies like TUI, D-reizen and Thomas Cook. I felt that as long as I enjoy working in tourism, I stay. Twenty years later, I’m still here.

"WE ARRIVED IN BALI WITH FOUR SUITCASES AND A FIVE YEAR-OLD DAUGHTER. PEOPLE THOUGHT WE WERE EITHER CRAZY OR BRAVE BUT IT WAS A GOOD DECISION FOR US. "

What brought you to Indonesia in the first place?

I met my wife at a travel trade show. She was born in Indonesia and moved with her family to Holland at the age of eleven, so she has one leg in both worlds. Ever since we knew each other we knew there would be one day we would emigrate. I have lived in Spain and we contemplated going there but I also love Asia, especially Indonesia and it was more attractive to my wife. In 2005 we made the decision to move abroad. We quit

our jobs, sold our house and then decided to throw in our belongings as well. We arrived in Bali with four suitcases and a five yearold daughter. People thought we were either crazy or brave but it was a good decision for us. It was actually great to sell everything we owned as it teaches us that we don’t need all those possessions, despite me being a gadget freak.

We would do it again tomorrow.

That’s a great story. What do you enjoy doing when you are not working?

I love spending time with my family. Making a career in Holland hardly allowed that. Now at least I come home every evening unless I travel. I like photography and video editing. A documentary I made on the island of Sumba has been broadcasted on Indonesian television more than once.

Without my permission or credits though, but that is OK. In the weekends I do the cooking, grilling an octopus or smoking a fresh mahi mahi. I also love my 1961 Vespa. It’s a substitute for the classic cars I used to have. Riding is as much fun to me as fixing the frequent mechanical problems.

And it’s orange of course!

How do you see us addressing the challenges Bali faces with such rapid growth?

Everybody knows all the suggestions for change. The growth is going really fast now and I think the main issue is how to gain control. I am in favour of growth because it creates jobs and hopefully welfare for those who really need it. Despite the good intentions, laws and regulations in place, there are still many ways in which individuals can get away with things. I’m also in favour of developing other parts

of Indonesia. It could take some pressure off Bali and still enhance the total number of visitors to Indonesia. Like Thailand for example, which has developed multiple beach, city and round trip destinations. Indonesia will definitely get there, but it will take time.

Some people say Bali is being ruined by big hotels, taxis and cars, and that tourists would be happier to stay in small traditional places and walk more. What are your thoughts?

That may be true for some, but Bali is so attractive because it caters to visitors with so many different interests. I do agree that infrastructure is a problem. Only last week I went to Kuta Beach Walk Mall for the first time. It has great parking facilities, but the traffic to get there had been holding me back all the time.

If we can’t widen the roads, we definitely need more parking areas and pedestrian zones. Some good results have been achieved in Legian street on this issue already.

You were explaining something many people forget — doing things in groups, whether families or fellow travellers has less impact on the environment.

It is economical and more enjoyable.

That is true and a lot of our business is focused on group tours.

However, many people would never choose that way of travel.

Still, I am positive we can leave our children a better world. It is our responsibility. ■ *** Thank you, Albert. To get in touch, email albert.kok@panorama-

KAREN DAVIS Chilean born American,Karen Davies is a journalist,artist and art therapist. Formerly a NYC fashion designer,she has been coming to Bali since 1979 and now resides here.

Bali Expat­­ ­◆ 5th – 18th December 2012

11

12

5th – 18th December 2012 ◆ Bali Expat­­­

Island Hopping Pulau Babi

"THE SANDS HERE ARE OF SUCH A HIGH QUALITY THAT SOME HAS BEEN IMPORTED TO SINGAPORE AND MALAYSIA FOR THEIR OWN ARTIFICIAL BEACHES." Tanjung Kelayang

Lighthouse at Pulau Lengkuas

to the top you will be rewarded with breathtaking views out over the ocean and you can watch the fishing boats as they sail over the calm waters. After descending from the lighthouse, you can sit under the palm trees and eat freshly cut coconut or swing in the hammock and just take in the views and simply relax.

BELITUNG ISLAND

INDONESIA'S HIDDEN PARADISE WORDS AND PHOTOS BY TASHA MAY

Tucked away on the east coast of Sumatra in the Java Sea lies a hidden gem, untouched by commercialism and the hoards of tourists usually found in such an idyllic location. This is the home to Belitung island, a land of pristine white sand and crystal clear waters and the setting for Indonesia's biggest blockbuster movie 'Laskar Pelangi' (Rainbow Warriors) in 2008, which was an adaptation of native writer Andrea Hirata's best-selling novel of the same name in 2005.

It is a short three hour trip from Bali, flying via Jakarta with AirAsia, Batavia Air or Sriwijaya Air, to Tanjung Pandan, Belitung's main town. Taxis are non-existent and public transport on the island is hard to find, so the most practical way to navigate your way around is to hire a motorbike or a car and driver for the duration of your trip. Starting from Tanjung

Pandan, you can choose to take a leisurely stroll through this tin mining town and enjoy a bowl of their famous delicacy, the Belitung noodle, which originated from the island's Chinese immigrants, or head straight towards the breathtaking coastal areas.

Tanjung Tinggi is a 20 minute drive from the main town and you will pass by abandoned Kaolin (clay) mining sites along the way, the environmental damage is easy to see although they do look somehow beautiful filled with azure water, before arriving at this postcard perfect destination. This was also a setting made famous by the Laskar Pelangi movie and with huge granite boulders jutting from the shallow clear waters, virgin white sands, blue skies and sunshine it is so serene and picturesque and you may likely have the whole place to yourself to enjoy and take a refreshing dip in the water. The sands here are of such a high quality that some has

been imported to Singapore and Malaysia for their own artificial beaches. It is no wonder that this destination has become very popular with photographers for its stunning and unique scenery.

A short walk from the rocks, there are traditional beach hut cafes lining the beach, serving fresh seafood, and a little further along is the 'Lor-In' accommodation with incredible views out to the ocean.

Accommodation on Belitung is currently limited to the beautiful and upscale Lor-In at Tanjung Tinggi, the newly finished Bahamas on the coast in Tanjung Padang, Bukit Berahu in Tanjung Bingga or the very reasonably priced Kelayang Beach Cottages in Tanjung Kelayang. Tanjung Kelayang Cottages are set in a charming beachfront location, with cottages overlooking the water and are run by a Western-Indonesian family. Here you are able to enjoy a meal in the open air cafe as you watch the fishermen in their boats

going about their duties, sit on the huge boulders and take in the view or enjoy snorkelling in the crystal clear waters. It is also from here that you can set off on a day of island hopping on a colourful traditional fishing boat, but you may want to remember to pack your own lunch and drinks as cafes are not a common sight on this journey.

There are many islands scattered around the coast, some of which consist only of huge granite boulders and sand which is only visible in low tide, and others which are great to explore, and surrounding each you can enjoy a swim or snorkel amongst the tropical fish and corals lining the ocean floor. Pulau Lengkuas is a small island that would take no longer than 20 minutes to walk around, and it is home to the Lighthouse which was built in numbered sections in England and assembled by the Dutch on the island in 1882, and still serves as a guide for fishing boats in the rocky waters. If you have the stamina to climb the 18 flights of stairs

Pulau Burung (Bird Island) is yet another tropical paradise, great for snorkelling and is lined with coconut trees and washed up driftwood and is a great place to just soak up the scenery. Pulau Babi (Pig Island), which is the largest island in the North coast of west Belitung, is also worth stopping at. Heading inwards from the shoreline, you can walk through the lush forests to the opposite side of the island where a new eco-friendly resort has been built. The wooden huts lining the beach are very basic and great for people who love nature and outdoor living, and there is also a cafe shaded by tall trees with stunning views out to the ocean.

Pulau Babi also has a turtle conservation area, where you can view newly born turtles, kept on site for a couple of months before being released into the sea.

Before heading back to Tanjung Kelayang you can have the boat stop to look over the endless horizon and watch as the sky become illuminated with bright colours of the sunset, before lighting up with thousands of stars in the unpolluted skies. If it is star gazing and relaxation in its purest form that you are after, without the hoards of people and nightclubs and bars lining the shores, then you are in for a real treat in this hidden paradise and I'm certain the serenity and views will leave you refreshed and rejuvenated in beautiful Belitung Island. ■

TASHA MAY Tasha May grew up in Melbourne, Australia, and once bitten by the travel bug has never looked back! Freelance fashion graphic designer, blogger and lover of all things colourful, she has been documenting the great adventure of daily life in Jakarta at www.welovejakarta.com.

13

Bali Expat­­ ­◆ 5th – 18th December 2012

Light Entertainment

To find out more about live stand-up comedy in Indonesia please e-mail jakarta@thecomedyclub.asia text or call 0821 1194 3084 or register at www.thecomedyclub.asia

I'd Rather be Playing Pool

BY EAMONN SADLER

Since I started the Jakarta Comedy Club in 2001, I have come to understand the comedy business quite well. I have studied the art of comedy closely, I think I understand the science of the “joke” or “gag”, and I think I know why people laugh at certain things and not at others. But even after all this time, there is still one thing I don’t understand; why do people heckle?

I agree that if you don’t think the act on stage is funny you have the RIGHT to voice your opinion, like you would at a football match if your chosen team were playing badly, but in my opinion you need to get some serious professional help if you think you are going to win in a battle of wits against a professional wordsmith who has heard it all before AND has the advantage of a microphone.

Shazia Mirza, a female Muslim comedian from Pakistan who performed at the JCC last year, was interrupted during a show by a drunken sexist comment from a man sitting at the back of the room.

Without missing a beat she said to the rest of the women in the audience “All men are pigs aren’t they girls?

Especially this one... unfortnately I can’t eat pork.”

Young, geeky-looking American comedian, Bryson Turner was on stage starting a piece about relationships. He said, “I remember the first time I had sex...” and with perfect timing, during the silence in the short pause on the end of that sentence, a female member of the audience sitting right at the front said, “Yesterday?” The audience erupted into laughter in support of the heckler, and Bryson looked like he was lost for words. He waited

for the laughter to subside, then with perfect timing responded with, “Glad you remember.” The audience erupted again, this time in support of the brilliant young comedian, and the woman was left red-faced and speechless.

I have asked many comedians over the years to tell me the worst heckle they have ever received. Most of the examples they give are pretty standard, mostly involving drunk people, and they are easliy dealt with by a professional. However, Scottish comedian, Martin Moore told me about one audience comment from which he admitted he could not recover—probably because it was said in earnest and not meant as a heckle at all—and it resulted in the whole audience getting their money back.

He was appearing at the Edinburgh Festival Fringe (yes, that’s the correct

name) early in his career and he had hired the pool room at the back of a pub in the city centre to use as a venue. The landlord of the pub removed the pool table to make space for the show and after a small stage had been set up there was room for only about 30 chairs. On his opening night, Martin had sold a grand total of two tickets for his show. At show time, two young men sat in the middle of the back row with arms crossed waiting for the show to begin, and Martin, eager to perform and needing the money and the experience, went on stage to do his act anyway. He braved his way through his introduction, did the build-up to his first gag and then hit them with the big punchline like a pro in the same way he would have if there had been 200 people in front of him. The room was completely silent.

Martin stared at the two men with a glint in his eye and a big smile on his

face, waiting for a delayed reaction.

Nothing. Then the deathly silence was broken by the creaking of a wooden chair as one of the straightfaced young men leaned over towards the other and said, “There used to be a pool table in here.” No coming back from that.

If you are ever at a stand up comedy show and you feel the irresistible urge to heckle, first ask yourself these three simple questions: 1. Am I completely sober? 2. Am I funnier than the professional comedian on stage? 3. Do I have a microphone?

I can almost guarantee that the answer to all those questions will be, ‘No’, but even if you answer ‘Yes’ to all three my advice is still ‘Don’t do it’—you’re definitely wrong about the first one and therefore probably the other two. ■

Can you name these two famous people? >>> SMS your answer followed by "Bali" to:

081 199 9603 <<< Last issue photo comp was won

by Benny J. from Seminyak in Bali.

Steve Jobs

Bill Gates

Across 1. Make less severe (8) 5. Confidence trick (4) 9. Mammal, giant or red (5) 10. Clothing (7) 11. Gratis (4,2,6) 13. Word designating hours (6) 14. Complain tearfully (6) 17. Genuineness (12) 20. Opening words of formal letter (4,3) 21. Become liable for (5) 22. Step in ladder (4) 23. Applied to a particular individual (8)

Answers: Steve Jobs and Bill Gates, taken at Steve Jobs’ house in Palo Alto California in 1991.

Down 1. Be depressed and listless (4) 2. Climbing plant's means of support (7) 3. Parmesan, often (6,6) 4. Price list - import tax (6) 6. Lucid (5) 7. Maternal (8) 8. Traditional British takeaway food (4,3,5) 12. Utensil for draining vegetables (8) 15. Papal hill and city (7) 16. Deprive of food (6) 18. Means of transport (5) 19. Spoken (4)

(Answers in the next edition!)

*Answers for Edition 12 ACROSS: 1. Fools paradise 8. Prudent 9. Cramp 10. Shed 11. Accepted 13. Hot dog 14.

Finite 17. Obdurate 19. Bent 21. Inane 22. Moisten 24. Get in on the act DOWN: 1. Fop 2. Opulent 3. Seek 4. Attack 5. Accredit 6. Inapt 7. Expedient 10.

Schooling 12. Bourgeon 15. Inertia 18. Draft 20. Wish 23. Net

THE TRAVEL QUIZ Scan the barcode and answer the 10 questions correctly for a chance to win a Rp.300,000 voucher from St. Lukas Silver Jewelry! Closing date January 8th, 2013.

Congratulations to Cessie P. who won the Changes & Infrastructure Quiz and a Rp.300,000 voucher from Revolver Cafe, Seminyak!

NEW CLOTHING LINE ESPECIALLY FOR LADIES AVAILABLE AT RUMBLE GIRL.

JL. RAYA BATUBULAN (NEXT TO HARDY'S BATUBULAN), BALI

14

BUSINESS & NETWORKING

BALI BUSINESS CLUB BREAKFAST NETWORKING MEETING Every Thursday, 7:30am Location: Little Tree Sunset Road 112-X Kuta (opposite Rip Curl Sunset Road) Please join Bali Business Club "Breakfast Meeting" every Thursday morning at 07.30 am at Little Tree Sunset Road 112X Kuta (opposite Rip Curl Sunset Road).

Don't forget to bring your friends and your partners to attend the meetings and also bring your business card as your marketing and networking tools.

5th – 18th December 2012 ◆ Bali Expat­­­

will go to two non-profit organizations in Bali — Anak Alam and 1,000 Ajak Liu — both focusing on children who are in need in Bali.

Shipping Hiphop, Break. Funk : DJ Kazz Info: (+62) 361 286 725 Website: www.antidastudio.com

Featuring: • THE BULLHEAD • GEEKSSMILE • POPIES SOLDIER • ROOTS RADICALS • THE DISSLAND • GOLD VOICE • THE BREWS • NYMPHEA • DEVIL DICE • SUPER MARIO Price: Rp 1,000 and please bring along four writing books which will be donated to the children of these charities. See you there!

Therefore, if you wish to sign up please put down a $ 500 deposit either via paypal or via direct credit to my bank account. Please email me at davidmetcalf3@mac.com for those details (Accounts in NZD, AUD, IDR, USD).

GOLF

Looking forward to seeing you all every Thursday morning.

SEMINAR & WORKSHOPS

FOR RSVP PLEASE CONTACT US AT: Phone: (+62) 361 790 9697 Fax: (+62) 361 751 944 E-mail #1: dayu@be-do.org E-mail #2: info@be-do.org Website: www.be-do.org

PECATU OPEN GOLF TOURNAMENT Wednesday, 12 December 2012 Location: New Kuta Golf, Kawasan Pecatu INdah Resort, Jl Raya Uluwatu, Pecatu Bali

The 2012 Skal Bali Ball will be held on Saturday December 15 in the Nikko Ballroom. The theme is Feast for the Senses, the dress is Elegant and the décor Black and White.

Tickets are Rp. 750.000.

Tables of ten are Rp. 7.500.000.

Of the 300 places, 210 are booked.

RSVP to: Mr. Gede Juwena Phone: (+62) 361 784 0212 E-mail: gede@skalbali.com Website: www.skalbali.com

12.30 pm Shotgun Start Tournament Fees: Member : Rp 200.000 Member Guest : Rp. 750.000 Visitor : Rp. 1.000.000 Info: +62 361 8481 333 +62 361 8481 400 +62 361 8481 331 E-mail: reservation@newkutagolf.com Website: www.newkutagolf.com

MUSIC & FESTIVAL

CHARITY

ADAM LAMBERT (LIVE IN BALI) Monday, 31 December 2012 Location: The Grand Ballroom, Mulia Resort, Jl. Raya Nusa Dua Selatan, Kawasan Sawangan Nusa Dua 80363 Bali, Indonesia.

"American Idol" alum, Adam Lambert has accrued numerous awards and nominations including a Grammy nomination for Best Male Pop Vocal in 2011. His latest album Trespassing (2012) entered at number one on the Billboard 200 album chart.

BOOK NOW! reservation@themulia.com Phone:(+62) 361 301 7777 E-mail: info@themulia.com “SURVIVING SCHOOLBOY” Wednesday, 26 December, 2012 From 10am until late Location: RUMBLE GIRL Jl Raya Batubulan, Sukawati, Gianyar, Bali A social event to motivate creativity in children, as well as motivate local musicians to be more creative and increase social awareness. All funds

Pricing for the tour is as follows: UDS$ 3335 based on double occupancy. USD$ 3860 based on single occupancy.

Special rate for partners USD$ 2875 (based on double occupancy)

BALI PHOTO TOUR — GALUNGAN Tue, 26 Mar 2013 - Mon, 01 Apr 2013 Tutors: Mark Rayner and David Metcalf.

SKAL BALI BALL Saturday, 15 December 2012 Location: TBA ON RSVP

Nyepi (the day of silence) is the most important day and special day on the Balinese calendar. Photographically speaking, it’s the days immediately before and after this day that are so visually exciting. This is a careful crafted photography workshop, which takes you inside the “real Bali” and has been designed to allow you to see and experience places in Bali that are very special (just for our group). This is a workshop not to be missed. We expect this workshop to fill up very quickly especially since it is planned around the most special time of the year in Bali — Nyepi.

I MANIFEST @ SERAMBI ARTS ANTIDA Tuesday, 11 December 2012 Location: Jl. Waribang No. 32 Denpasar Bali Performing live: Pitchblackgold. Black master. K1m. Izzy KMC. Daddy-O. Ec-Spicy Aeriel Crew.

Bali Breakin' and more.

This is a wonderful opportunity to explore the wonder and magic of the beautiful island of Bali over the time of Galungan a very special time on the Balinese calendar. The seven nights, six -day photo tour will cover some of the most spectacular and interesting places in Bali including colourful ceremonies, magnificent volcanoes, rice paddies, ancient temples, village life, market scenes and a great opportunity to learn about the fascinating Balinese culture.

One of the highlights of this workshop will be the opportunity to photograph the Galungan Festival on March 27.

This includes: 7 nights accommodation at the beautiful Puri Sunia, Ubud, 5 Lunches, 4 Dinners, Special dance and music performance at village involving over 50 performers, VIP Visitor arrival service, Pick from the airport on arrival and delivery back to the airport for departure, Specially decorated Sarongs for the tour and to keep as a souvenir All ground transport whilst on the tour E book with selection of the best of everyones images, Professional photographers and guides fees.

Come and join New Zealand Travel Photographer of the Year, Mike Langford and New Zealand Professional Photographer of the Year, Jackie Ranken on a magical workshop in Bali in March 2013. “This is a photography workshop not just a tour. We share our knowledge to photographers of all levels. Under our watchful guidance you will learn new skills and techniques that will stay with you for the rest of your photographic life.” said Jackie.

Tickets may be purchased at the door or beforehand at all major Quiksilver stores, Cocoon Club, Discovery surf school, Endless Summer Surf School, Pro Surf School, Windysun Surf School and Take-off Surf School.

Special VIP fine dining experience available for IDR400,000, including exclusive table in an exclusive screening area VIP Cabanas available.

CONTACT: Aida at Surftime Magazine: Phone: 082 341 983 995 Morgana at Cocoon Club: Phone: 0361 731 266 Innesse at marketing: Phone: 081 339 700 50 Website: www.aidasalehi.com

Please contact me via e-mail: davidmetcalf3@mac.com International: (+62) 811 133 1255 Indonesia (local): 0811 133 1255

SPECIAL EVENTS

3CS : CHILDREN, CHRISTMAS AND CHARITY Sat, 01 Dec 2012 - Sun, 09 Dec 2012 From 10:00am to 5:00pm Location: Made's Warung, Seminyak

The workshop will be based in Ubud, the cultural heart of Bali, under the guidance of Kiwi and local resident Dave Metcalf who has travelled all over Bali Searching out the best times and places to photograph and capture the true essence of this tropical paradise.

In fact, Bali must surely be one of the most fascinating places in the world to photograph.

BALI TOURS (BALI PHOTO WORKSHOP) — NYEPI BY DAVID METCALF Fri, 08 Mar 2013 - Fri, 15 Mar 2013

All donations go to the Padang Padang Beach Clean-up program Donations start at IDR100,000 at the door.

Does not Include: Alcohol, Tips, 30 day Visa or departure tax, International airfares.

But Galungan is not all you will experience You will be escorted to many of Bali’s wonders at the best time of the day to capture the rich tropical light, and share these wonders with fellow photographers, sharing your passion; photography.

Please contact Dave for more info: E-mail: davidmetcalf3@mac.com www.davidmetcalfphotography.com

Russian surf scene here in Bali. Quickly paced, mesmerizing imagery will keep you riveted as you enjoy the film under the stars at the sumptuous Cocoon Club at Double Six beach. So wear your best and bring your best to this unique premiere in the elegant surroundings of the Cocoon club for a star studded night that will celebrate the remarkable world of surfing we all belong to here on this very special Island.

ON THE WAVE PREMIERE AT COCOON! Thursday, 06 December 2012 Location: Jl. Double Six, Blue Ocean Boulevard, Kuta 80361 ON THE WAVE, Russia’s first feature length surf documentary will be presented by Surftime Magazine, Quiksilver and The Cocoon club during a red carpet evening under the stars on December 6th, at Double Six Beach in Seminyak. Already a phenomenon in Russia, selling out theatres from Moscow to St. Petersburg, ON THE WAVE features the surfing of Kelly Slater and a cast of fascinating surfers from around the world. Not your typical documentary, this gorgeously High Definition film gets deep inside the heads of a number of international surfers, including Russians, as they speak very candidly of their feelings about surfing and what it means to their lives. More an experience than just a film, shot mostly on location here in Bali, this film is a unique insight not only into the minds of surfers but into the fast growing

Bali with Kids and SPICE school are organizing 2 fun Christmas Charity events to benefit the children of Bali Hearts and Samaritania. Join the fun, grab your bargains and have a bite to eat. Games and entertainment throughout the day.

Saturday 1st December: Christmas Bazaar at Made's Warung. Get your Xmas gifts while your children play.

The restaurant will be open during the bazaar to enjoy drinks, a delicious lunch or a snack. Sunday 9th December (10:00am to 5:00pm): Christmas Flea market at 3V Canggu. Bargains!

Bargains! Bargains! food and fun.

Free entrance, Ho, Ho, Ho! Tell your friends!Bali Hearts is a charity based in Kalisada in the North of Bali. They currently sponsor 30 children. We are raising funds for their bicycle project to facilitate transport to and from school for children living in remote villages and buy books for their reading program. Samaritania is a local school in Sanur set up for the children of the men and women who collect garbage.

We will invite their children and raise money to buy swing sets and other play equipment for their playground.

We still have a few stalls available for vendors and entertainers. Email us for more info: contact@baliwithkids.com Website: www.baliwithkids.com

15

Bali Expat­­ ­◆ 5th – 18th December 2012

Classifieds are still FREE! Send in your classifieds to: ads@baliexpat.biz Next issue deadline: 12th December, 2012

Have something to sell? Looking for something to buy? Looking for staff? Selling property? Or need a place to live? Why not place your classified ad with Bali Expat!

Your classified will be placed once for 2 weeks online and once in our printed version which has a circulation of 12,500 copies bi weekly.

Classifieds: free of charge (50 words max) Send in your classifieds to: ads@baliexpat.biz

PROPERTY LOMBOK: LUXURY BEACHFRONT VILLA FOR HOLIDAY RENTAL. 3 SUITES EACH WITH K.S BED, SPA BATH, TROPICAL SHOWER. WI FI, CABLE TELEVISION. ENGLISH SPEAKING STAFF. PROMO RATES AVAILABLE. Contact: +6281 246 400 246. Web: www.vervevillaslombok. com Seminyak,1br+/1ba,kitchen.2student ok,aircon,hot water,tv,dvd, beach/surf close,furnished, 35mil rp a year, 20mil rp 6 month. E-mail: fyibtw@yahoo.com.

Contact: 081246514976 For Rent: Beautiful 3-bedroom villa in Ubud. www.villadamee.com Contact David Metcalf 08111 331 255 or e-mail: info@villadamee.com Brand new modern 3-bedroom villa w/ pool in Sanur for rent IDR 165 million/ year. Fully furnished, fully equiped kitchen, 900 meter to beach, secured, private. Contact: rodcoral@hotmail.com Brand new modern 2-bedroom villa w/pool in Kerobokan for rent IDR 95 million/year or 16 million/month all inclusive. Fully furnished, expat area, secured, private, 2-3 minutes from LioSquare. Contact: rodcoral@hotmail.com Villa Kerobokan; FOR RENT: spacious 3 bedroom villa with nice design/ character and pool in KEROBOKAN.fully furnished,s'pool,closed living with kitchen area.Quiet area,2 minutes to Seminyak.

YEARLY RENT:IDR 115 million. MONTHLY RENT: IDR 18 million all included. More info & photos, sandratotin@hotmail.com Kost exclusive, strategic location.

Facilities: AC, LCD TV 32”, hot water, refrigerator, kitchen set, full furniture, back terrace, carpark. IDR 225.000/day, IDR 1.100.000/week, IDR 1.800.000/ month. Casa Nemo; Jl. Palapa 11 Gg. Nemo No. 4 Sesetan Denpasar. Please e-mail: crescent.freija@yahoo.com or SMS: 0852 3754 2274

New minimalist house for sale. 130m2 type 100, 2 floors, 3 bedrooms, location behind Mc D Jimbaran, close to international school, market, food place and beach only 10 minutes. (0361) 210 8009 / 0878 5325 0288 Are You Looking for Villa or House on Bali? Feel Free To Contact Us: Putu Villa Rental. 081 936 045 556(Rent-LeaseSale). E-mail: putuvillarental@gmail.com Villa Sunset Wave - Medewi Beach Bali Oceanfront Home. INCLUDES:1800 sqm of land, 3 private bungalows & bathrooms, Infinity pool, Indoor/outdoor timber pavilion, New timber kitchen, Bangkirai timber decking, Insect screens throughout, Freehold Title deeds held in Sydney, Australia, Very friendly village atmosphere, Mesmerizing ocean views, International surf hotspot, Opportunity for yoga and artists retreat, Recently redeveloped to immaculate standard The option is yours… The perfect holiday home, investment portfolio, tropical paradise to develop your cottage style business plan, reinvent yourself or simply retire in the land of endless summer days and long striking sunsets. OCEANFRONT PROPERTIES LIKE THIS ARE EXTREMELY RARE IN BALI AND QUITE SERIOUSLY AN AFFORDABLE ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME OPPORTUNITY. Australian owners reluctantly selling due to the birth of new baby daughter and change in ‘parenting’ priority. EXCEPTIONAL VALUE: Offers of $495,000.00 and above will be considered! Full details at: www. sunsetwave.com Tel: (02) 9529-2473 Tel: 0417-289-400 – John Tel: 0417-656-098 -Milu- E-mail: sales@sunsetwave.com Just pay at only RP. 1,5 juta/person for group friends 6 people you can get 3 D/2 N free stay at hotel in Bali and free tour in Bali for min 6 people group and family.

Just contact : Rere mobile 085 739 178 158 UBUD LIGHTHOUSE! Sparkling new, modern, bright, spacious 2-floor, 3 ensuite bedrooms, open kitchen & living spaces,

terraces, unfurnished property in central Ubud awaits a business, clinic or family seeking the perfect midtown location— combined with privacy, garden & carport.

Five year lease. Available immediately.

Contact 0821 4783 5711 or e-mail: ubudlighthouse@gmail.com Villa for rent: area 3 are, 2 bedroom, living room, kitchen, air condition, hot water, swimming pool, big garden.

Contact Made: 081 2363 0309 / 0819 1665 9151 Sanur, (Jl Kesari, 5 mins walk to beach and cafes etc), 5 year lease 'for sale': renovated Balinese house with 2.5 br br and modern kitchen, lots of cupboards, AC, fans, fenced pool, 1 car park, small yard, fully furnished. Rp 700 million for 5 years, incl furniture. E-mail:amolongo@ hotmail.com or call 081 585 117 108.

Rare land for 40 year lease, Tanjung Sanur, approx 25 are in 5 are lots, private access road, clear certificates. Rp 6.5 million/are/year. E-mail: amolongo@ hotmail or call 081 585 117 108.

FOR SALE CHEAP LAND, 46 ARE — UBUD/BADUNG – IDR 60 MLN/ARE — Rare opportunity from direct owner.

Now this beautiful piece of land belongs to region Badung. After road access investment (approximately IDR 800 MLN) it will belong to region UBUD, worth at least IDR 150 MLN/ARE! Price increase of IDR 90 MLN/are! More info at cheap-ubud-land@hotmail.com

jobs (looking for STAFF) Looking for good, creative, fun and energetic nanny with a background in Education. Able to run child related errands, research/help with homework, and play with them. Email CV to: wendy@ kevalaceramics.com Seeks a Marketing Person (Rp.20.000.000/mth). We seek the services of a female marketing expert, any nationality, with perfect spoken & written English. Candidate must have experience in most of the following: Internet: Search Engine Marketing; Google Adwords, mobile advertising, SEO, Analytics, social media, forums, ad/banner placements and monitoring.

Print: publications, pamphlets, brochures, vouchers, etc. (including distribution).

Direct Marketing: Women’s gatherings, charity events, vouchers & sponsorship.

Privileged Client Memberships Business Partnership Programs. Bank Relations: credit card discounts & points collection, customer gifts. Commissioned Agents: Liaison with hotel & spa operators, travel agents & wedding organizers. Those that do not have experience in most of the above criteria, need not apply.

Applications by e-mail to: gkj2020@ yahoo.com Fit model required for fashion label. Must measure bust 34” waist 26.5“ and hips 37.5”. Please email chiara@natashagan. com.au Online Start-Up is looking for a Sales & Marketing Manager, Sales Executives and Marketing Executives to join our team.

Highly competitive salary. Send your CV to: jobs@foodpanda.co.id with subject “HR Bali”.

VILLA DAMEE Beautiful 3 bedroom Villa located in a peaceful,quiet and serene setting 10 minutes from Ubud.

This is the real Bali authentic experience as the villa is situated in the Pakerisan Valley and surrounded by ancient temples. Newly listed the owners are willing to offer special rates for Kitas holders.Can be rented as one or three bedrooms,so ideal for couples or a family. Please contact Dave Metcalf at info@ villadamee.com or visit the website for more info http://villadamee.com

BLACKLISTPLANET.COM: Finally a place to warn the world about who, where, and what to avoid!

The Expat community is huge.

Thousands live & work in countries other than "home". New ones come, old ones move on. We can all help each other from our experiences now. There is now a new, onestop online list of businesses that scam Expats, places that should be avoided, and people to look out for.

Looking for Bali Wedding Consultant.

Require Australian. Wedding experience essential. Good working conditions.

Kitas provided. Office based in Legian.

Only serious applicants need apply.

Please email photo and resume to baliweddingconsultant@hotmail.com.

SERVICES Bali Employment & Nanny Service. Phone 0361 8839741 / 081353149586. www. balinanny.net. We Provide: Housekeeper, Housemaid, Babysitter/Nanny freelance & permanent, Driver, Security, Gardener, Pool Cleaner, Office Staff, Waitress, Cook, etc. English/Indonesia speaking, live in & out, female & male. Good Service with Guarantee.

Bali Private Swimming Teacher. All Levels and All Ages. Call: 081 338 70 4319 (Leo).

BALI PHOTO TOUR WITH MARK RAYNER AND DAVID METCALF: GALUNGAN MARCH 26–APRIL 2, 2013 : This is a wonderful opportunity to explore the wonder and magic of the beautiful island of Bali over the time of Galungan a very special time on the Balinese calendar. The seven nights, six-day photo tour will cover some of the most spectacular and interesting places in Bali including rice colourful ceremonies, magnificent volcanoes, rice paddies, ancient temples, village life, market scenes and a great opportunity to learn about the fascinating Balinese culture. One of the highlights of this workshop will be the opportunity to photograph the Galungan Festival on March 27. For those who have not been to Bali before you will find the Balinese a gentle, happy, very friendly people who love having their photos taken. Contact dave for more Info davidmetcalf3@mac. com or visit his website www. davidmetcalfphotography.com

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5th – 18th December 2012 ◆ Bali Expat­­­