Kyiv.TOP10 by Oksana Dyshleva

БАЛТИЯ-ДРУК

Church of the Nativity of the Virgin (17th cent.) and the bell-tower near the Far Caves (18th cent.)

Kyiv The First Meeting

very city with a long history is in imitable. Especially if we talk of such a city as Kyiv, the fifteen-century-long his tory of which has intertwined surprising legends and outstanding historical events, majestic victo ries and tragic defeats. Here everything is of spe cial sense — a landscape where the river adjoins mountains, and the vivid present goes with unique historical monuments. Here the air itself seems to be filled with the romantic aroma of the past. Becoming acquainted with such a city is not just a fascinating trip, but an exciting search of the city’s soul. The history of Kyiv’s foundation is shrouded in legends. Nestor the Chronicler stated in his The Chronicle of Bygone Years the forthcoming glory of the city on the Dnipro hills, prognosticated by the Apostle Andrew as well. From the Chronicle

we come to know the names of the founders of Kyiv — brothers Kyi, Schek and Khoriv and their sister Lybid. Historians have no doubt as to the fact that they are real historical figures. The oldest Kyiv place-names such as the Starokyivska (Old Kyiv), Schekavytsia, Khorivytsia hills and the river Lybid‑serve as indirect evidence for this fact. The‑memory of the Apostle has been preserved by‑St. Andrew’s Church, one of the most beautiful churches in Kyiv. In the 6th –9th centuries the so-called Detynets, the fortified centre of the Upper Town, formed on the Starokyivska hill. In the 10th century it was actively built up: princes’ palaces, stone churches, estates for the nobility and townspeople as well as handicraft shops sprang up all over the town. In the 11th century the Upper Town included the territo ries of both Volodymyr’s and Yaroslav’s towns and

St.‑Sophia Cathedral (1017–1037) and the Bell-Tower (17th cent.)

The Upper Town. From St. Sophia Cathedral of Kyiv to the University

olodymyrska Street begins from Volo dymyr’s Town. It links the city’s old past and its contemporary life with an invisible thread. Probably no other street in Kyiv can be com pared with it regarding the number of its historical, cultural and architectural monuments. Just two blocks up the street and you will see a breathtaking picture: a spacious square and a majestic bell-tower and cathedral behind the mon astery wall. This is the St.‑Sophia Cathedral, a great architectural monument of the world. It was built from 1017 to 1037 under the rule of Prince Yaroslav the Wise. Following Constantinople’s tradition the grand prince called the main church of his state St. Sophia which means Holy Wisdom. Initially St. Sophia Cathedral’s dimensions were not large — 43 × 56 metres. In 1685–1707 it was reconstructed and given a baroque aspect. Con

currently a three-tier stone bell-tower was erected. The fourth tier was added in 1852, and the belltower became 76 metres high. Its walls were decorated with rich stucco ornaments and coats of arms. The façade of the third tier facing the square featured relief representations of the Apostle Andrew and Prince Volodymyr, and on the opposite side are those of the Apostle Timothy and the Archangel Raphael. A bell of the 16 th century (800 poods in weight) has survived in the second tier. Through the main entrance in the bell-tower one can get to the territory of St. Sophia Reserve and the Cathedral itself. In some places stucco has been removed from the Cathedral’s east façade so you can touch the stones that are almost a thousand years old… The narthex leading to the Cathedral houses two models: the reconstruction of the Cathedral’s initial aspect, Byzantine style, and its present-day

Khreschatyk

t is the main street of Kyiv, a bit more than a kilomtre long. Strange as it may seem but Khreschatyk only became the centre of the city in the mid-19 th century. The Khreschatyk stream running down a big ravine divided the present-day Pechersk and Podil districts. Later the main ravine and those descending therein turned into Khreschatyk Street, and the adja cent Instytutska, Luteranska and Prorizna streets. In the 18th century the first construction sites sprang up around the present-day European Square. Khreschatyk Street joined the formerly solitary section of the old Kyiv with the Podil and Pechersk districts. In the latter half of the 19 th century Khreschatyk became the centre of Kyiv, with its respectable bank and post offices, luxurious rent houses, theatres and trade institutions, fashionable restaurants and cafes.

In 1941 Khreschatyk Street was almost com pletely ruined, only a few pre-war buildings sur vived. Gradually there arose majestic buildings and trade shops with granite socles, forming an impres sive architectural ensemble. Khreschatyk begins from European Square. The name of the square was‑derived from the name of the hotel that stood in‑place of the present-day cultural centre Ukrainian House. The building of the National Philharmonic Society of Ukraine is located near the Ukrainian House. This is the former building of the Merchant’s Assembly built after the project by the architect V.‑Nikolayev in 1882. The history of the Philhar monic Society originates in the Kyiv department of the Russian Musical Society founded in 1863. Before the construction of the Merchant’s Assembly was completed concerts were staged in the halls

LYpkY

alking up from Khreschatyk Street we shall find ourselves in Lypky, the most aristocratic district in Kyiv. From Maidan you can get there along the architect Horodetsky Street. Traditionally the acquaintance with Lypky begins with Ivan Fanko Square in the centre of which there is a cozy public garden with an old fountain. Behind it there is the building of Ivan Franko National Academic Ukrainian Drama Theatre. The build ing was constructed by the architects G.‑Schleifer and E.‑Bradtman in 1898. Initially it was used by the company organized by the well-known actor and producer Mykola Solovtsov. The out standing Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova danced on its stage. I.‑Franko Ukrainian Drama Theatre has‑been working in this building since 1926. It has‑been made famous by such actors as A.‑Buchma,

V.‑Dalsky, O.‑Kusenko, I.‑Marianenko, N.‑Uzhviy, Yu.‑Shumsky and others. On the right of the theatre there is the building of the Gymnasium where studied the great ballet dancer Serge Lifar. A monument to Ivan Franko erected in 1956 in honour of the outstanding Ukranian writer’s jubilee stands in the neighbouring public garden. On passing by the building of the theatre you get‑to Bankova Street which is of special interest: in‑it there is one of the most freakish creations of the well-known Kyiv architect V.‑Horodetsky, the‑so-called Building with Chimeras (1903). Horodetsky decorated the facades of his building with sculptural representations of elephants, rhinos, antelopes, lizards, toads, dolphins and mermaids. These sculptural decorations advertised cement, a new building material, and gave birth to many oral

I.‑Franko Theatre. 1896–1898. Architects G.‑Shleifer, E.‑Bradtman

House of the Weeping Widow

stories that interpreted the intricate imagination of the architect. The massive building opposite the Building with Chimeras was the quarters of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of Ukraine till 1991. Today it is the Secretariat of the President of Ukraine. Bankova Street joins Lutheran Street that acqu ired its name due to the fact that it had been a district of compact habitation of the Protestants, a religious community whose representatives held a prominent position in society. It is appropriate to mention the family of Withenschein, a hero of the war of 1812, and the family of the Hraleys some members of which were doctors and pastors. A‑Romanesque kirk was built in Lutheran Street at‑the expense of this family after the design of the architects I.‑Schtrom and P.‑Schleifer. No. 23, Luteran Street, is worthy of special attention. It is called the House of the Weeping Widow. The façade of the building is decorated with

Interior of the National Bank of Ukraine

“Building with Chimeras.” 1901–1903. Architect V.‑Horodetsky

The National Bank of Ukraine. 1902–1905. Architects A.‑Kobelev, A.‑Verbytsky

View of the Gate Church of the Trinity (12th cent.) from the territory of the Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra

Pechersk

he acquaintance with this old district can be started from the territory of Khres chaty Park terminating Khreschatyk Street. From here you will see magnificent views of Podil district, the Dnipro River and the left-bank expanses. There are two brick water towers in the southern part of the park; in one of them there is an exhibition of the Museum of Water. An open-work bridge leads from the park to Pechersk. The history of its construction is quite unusual: in 1912, after the design of the well-known bridge builder Ye. O.‑Paton, an academician to be, the bridge was built directly on the ground and then the ground was excavated from under the bridge. Kyivites call this park bridge “a bridge of kisses.” The former Tsar’s (Mariinsky) Palace erected in the mid-18th century after the design of F. B. Rast relli stands in the park as well. During its long his

tory the palace served as a residence of governors, an institution of mineral waters, and museum. After the Great Patriotic War of 1941–1945 the build ing was actually empty. In 1980 –1982 large-scale reconstruction work was carried out in the palace. The main halls of the palace were furnished with cut-glass lamps, unique parquet, and furniture styl ized in the 18th-century fashion. The central White Hall looks particularly impressive with its warm colours of natural wood that are in perfect harmony with the glimmer of crystal and delicate gilt. Today Mariinsky Place is the place where sum mit talks and important state meetings are held. At‑the same time the palace is open for tourists. Opposite the Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra the construc tion of the Arsenal started in 1764. The huge build ing (classic style, 800 metres in perimeter, square in map) with a large inner court had spacious halls

Panorama of the Kyiv-Pechersk St.窶船ormition Lavra

St.‑Nicholas’ Roman-Catholic Church. 1899–1909. Architects S.‑Volovsky, V.‑Horodetsky

New Construction

he fact that most of the old sacred and memorable places are located closely to each other is an indisputable advantage of Kyiv as a place of tourist interest. Though there are many interesting things beyond the borders of the historical centre — for instance in the district traditionally called New Construction, particularly in Velyka Vasylkivska Street, the main street of the‑district, and in more remote districts that were developed in the 20th century. The central Choral Synagogue built on the means of the philantropist Lazar Brodsky is located in the small Shota Rustaveli Street. It functioned till 1926, then it was closed by Soviet authorities. For a long time this building housed the puppet theatre. It was only in 1997 that the building was returned to the religious community. Brodsky Choral Synago

gue is one of the most effective Judaic sacred places in Kyiv. The Olympic Stadium, the best athletic field in the country seating 80 thousand, is quite near by. Apart from the main arena with the football ground and the running-track it has training football grounds, gymnasiums, indoor swimming pools, tennis-courts. It is natural that Kyivites’ favourite football team is “Dynamo” that achieved particular ly much success with its coach Valeriy Lobanovsky. The monument to the coach stands at the entrance to Dynamo Stadium that was given his name. The Palace of Sports, built in 1960, also belongs to the main athletic fields of Kyiv. Its space and sports arena are used for competitions, as well as for holding concerts and trade fairs. The Museum of Sports Glory of Ukraine is housed in the Palace of Sports.

View of St.‑Andrew’s Church and the “Castle of Richard”

Andriivsky Uzviz (Descent)

t is the most popular street of old Kyiv. It is a twisting path lying between the‑picturesque hills Zamkova and Uzdyhalnytsia. In olden times it was called Borychiv Uzvis and was the main road linking the Upper Town and Podil. Today Andriivsky Uzviz is famous for its open-air exhibitions, souvenir shops and appropriate places for romantic strolls. It is the district of original art galleries and salons, the theatre Koleso and Theatrre in Podil, cozy cafes and restaurants. But what is most important is that this street is a unique architec tural ensemble. St.‑Andrew’s Church, the legendary Richard Building, and a number of rent houses of the first decades of the 20th century deserve special attention. St.‑Andrew’s Church, an architectural monu ment of the baroque period, was built in 1749–1755

by the Moscow engineer and builder I.‑Michurin after the design of the great architect F. B.‑Rastrelli. The single-domed church has the form of a cross with decorative towers at the angles. The interior of the church is distinguished for the abundance of carved and gilded decorations. The place for the church was not chosen by acci dent. According to the chronicle, the Apostle Andrew, standing on this hill, pronounced prophetic words: “Can you see these hills? The grace of God will shine on these hills, and there will be a great city there, and many churches will be erected by God.” According to a legend the Apostle raised a wooden cross on that hill. A thousand years later, in the late 11th century, St.‑Andrew’s wooden Church and a convent were built on that sacred place. Down St.‑Andrew’s Church there is a public garden with a tracery pergola. Nearby are the

View of the central part of Podil

Podil

he earliest settlements in Podil date back to the first centuries A. D. Since times of Kyivan Rus Podil has been the commercial and handicraft centre of the city. After the Prince’s town was destroyed by Batu Khan in 1240 Kyiv’s life concentrated near the Dnipro, in Podil, and the city was given the name of Kyiv-Podil. In the 15th century Podil craftspeople united into guilds. Kyiv citizens obtained the Magdeburg Right and self-government at that time as well. Kyiv-Podil was governed by the city council; the burgomaster was elected by universal suf frage. In spite of different kinds of oppression self-government in Podil existed up to the 1830s. Unfortunately the building of the city council and many other monuments of that time have not sur vived: more than once Podil suffered from floods

and fire. Podil lost many of its original features and yet it has preserved the architecture of the medieval Podil, including Kontraktova (Contract) Square. Kontraktova Square is called the “heart of Podil” in its own right. Its architectural ensemble mirrors the diversity of life of this old district. While build ing the underground many framework structures of‑the 9th –12th centuries were discovered there at a great depth. The main trade square was situated there in the times of Kyivan Rus. As a reminder of that time the Arcade was built in the centre of the square. Near the Arcade there is the fountain Samson with a sculpture representing the biblical hero Samson fighting a lion. The Church of the Assump tion of the Virgin Pyrogoscha restored in the forms of the Old Rus architecture is opposite the fountain.

Kyiv Picture album TOP 10 Director-General Ruta Malikenaite Editor-in-Chief Virginius Strolia Executive Editor Alisa Hryhoruk Olena Kiryatska Art Editor Vitaliy Mashkov

Lay-out and design by Pavlo Mashkov Ihor Artemenko

Prepared for printing by Volodymyr Mukhin Andriy Dovzhenko Sergiy Opaliy Photographs by Valeriy Barishpolets Yuriy Buslenko Yevhen Derlemenko Mykola Ivaschenko Viktor Khmara