See it! Feel it! Love it!
The dish on the cover - cold beetroot soup oot soup Cold beetr 2 portions
5 min.
Ma ke i t yoursel f!
kefir • 500 g of oiled or canned b • 100 g of ot o r beet rs cucumbe • 2 fresh een onion leaves l gr • severa dill h of fresh c in • ap d egg • 1 boile r cream sou • 40 g of e (if you choose to tast use • salt to t, instead of kefir, r u g o y se u ) more salt ed potatoes boil • 400 g of
Finely chop the vegetables: cucumbers, beetroot (can be grated), scallions and dill.
Hello, dear friend! Cold beetroot soup
Put everything into a large bowl, add kefir, season with salt, and stir. Give the soup some time to mature and improve the flavour.
Ladle the soup into soup bowls and add a diced boiled egg. Serve with hot boiled potatoes seasoned with dill. Bon appetite!
(Lith. šaltibarščiai) is a traditional soup, offering a true taste of Lithuanian cuisine! Its gorgeous dark pink colour comes from natural beet juice and the unspeakably fresh taste, the most important part of this dish, from the kefir, which nutritionists have named as one of the healthiest foods in the world! Kefir can be replaced with soured milk, buttermilk, sour cream thinned with mineral water, or a similar soured milk product. In Western Europe and the US, it would probably be replaced with natural yoghurt, in Germany with buttermilk (Buttermilch), and in Russia, Asia, and Southeastern Europe with ryazhenka, prostokvasha, kumis, ayran, laban, dahi, lassi, doogh etc.
My letter is coming to you from the magnificent Baroque city of Vilnius. It is so beautiful and green here! Everything is homey and familiar, and the people speak the language I have been longing to hear, my native Lithuanian! Positive emotions are filling my heart, so I am excited to share my experiences about my visit to Lithuania over a few weeks with my family. I have landed at Vilnius international airport that is so modern and convenient! On the way to the hotel I met my parents, who came to Vilnius by international train and my sister, who came from Sweden by ferry. Lithuania can be reached from every corner of the world in all sorts of ways, which is perfect when you want to meet a family scattered around the globe. It‘s an amazing feeling to return to your homeland! P.S. By the way, right now I‘m writing from a cafe where I am enjoying a bowl of cold beetroot soup, the most popular soup in Lithuania.
2 Vilnius, The Capital of Lithuania
Vilnius, The Capital of Lithuania 3
Vilnius I have already forgotten how wonderful it is to wake up to the ringing bells of Old Town Vilnius with the reflection of St. Anne’s Church in the hotel window. I recall the story of Napoleon who, fascinated by the grace of this lovely Gothic church, said he would gladly take it back with him to Paris in the palm of his hand. It’s a misty morning – perfect weather for a walking tour. Our Maitre d’ tells us Vilnius has the largest old town in Eastern Europe, with architecture dating back to the Middle Ages. In a quaint Old Town bakery we savour some fresh croissants and coffee, then we wander the maze-like streets of this intricate Medieval town. We pause to admire the artwork on the Artists’ Wall in Literatų Street and stop by Vilnius University (next to the Presidential Palace) for a tour of its ornate library. Shopping is next. Stylish creations of wool and linen, all with that particular Lithuanian flair... hand-made wooden toys and sculptures, jewelry, ceramics... hard to resist buying everything! I was tired of walking so I found the nearest Cyclocity Vilnius bike rental station and rode an orange bike back to the hotel for free. The Gates of Dawn house a chapel bustling with pilgrims and others who have come to see the sacred icon of the Virgin Mary and Child, believed by many to have miraculous powers. The Historic Town Hall, neo-classical Cathedral, with its ancient crypts, and the newly reconstructed Royal Palace are also on our list of places to visit, along with an ascent to the top of the bellfry of the Church of Saints John the Baptist and John the Apostle. The belfry is the highest building in Old Town, and the view is spectacular!
The sun breaks through the clouds just as we ascend Gediminas Hill by cog railway. When we reach the top of the old castle tower, the view is simply breathtaking – sun-lit rooves of Old Town beneath our feet, steeples everywhere pointing upward towards the sky, squares and courtyards overflowing with greenery, and those winding, narrow streets tucked in between. No wonder Old Town Vilnius is a UNESCO World Heritage Site! Tired but very happy, we all went our separate ways as evening was approaching. We were pleasantly surprised that Vilnius is so alive at night. Bars and restaurants are full of beautiful, happy people speaking a variety of languages, live music can be heard in outdoor cafes, people are getting acquainted, and no one is in a hurry to go home.
: ris oliday the Pa next h upis called urism.lt; e h t r to Už Ove ilniusround lace,
Vilnius
Useful links: www.vilnius-tourism.lt www.vilnius-events.lt www.lietuva.lt www.muziejai.lt www.meniu.lt www.cyclocity.lt www.valdovurumai.lt
1 2 3 4 5
a walk a artre, www.v akis p Užutr akai-visit.lt d n a Montm astle .lt; www.tr anor s akai c avas m see Tr kaimuzieju b iu L d ra an www.t e park ; Europ osparkas.lt e h t it p o r vis u .e ww matic s mill, w bavas.lt; and ro art of Vilniu iu t .l in w a w u e w ay q h d e e n h h t u t round ardens in Monday - S a lk a , w G Street rdine Berna n ( Maironio w x, a o Old T 0 pm); omple /en. 1 gical C .kernave.org lo m o a e a 7 w h c w r w A ; rnavė ge site visit Ke World Herita O C S E UN
4 Aukštaitija region
Along the hills of
Aukštaitija region 5
Aukštaitija The next day, after a good night's in the rural tourism farmstead, we headed towards North Lithuania to Biržai Lithuania's " land of beer".
Lithuania consists of five regions, all of them formed on an ethnographic basis in the thirteenth century: Aukštaitija (the Highlands), Samogitia, Lithuania Minor, Suvalkija and Dzūkija. There is an open-air folk museum in Rumšiškės which features historical buildings, furniture and reenactments of Lithuanian village life. In one day visitors can experience what life was like in each of Lithuania’s five regions in times past. But, since we have time and Lithuania is not all that large, we decide to visit all five Lithuanian regions ourselves, so we could see, feel, and taste everything.
Biržai has long been famous for its breweries and the delicious beer. At Biržai castle vaults, we sample beer and then dance a Lithuanian squaredance with a folk ensemble. The locals teach us some drinking songs: “I was drinking beer and singing nicely; why are my cheeks so red?” The Highlanders are known for their songs and merriment, no doubt inspired by the beer, at least in part!
We pick up our rental car and head towards Aukštaitija, known as Lithuania’s “land of lakes”. The well-maintained roads are a pleasure to drive and we are there in less than two hours. Seems you cannot walk five steps here without hitting a body of water. And the forests are dense and lush. My sister and I sign up for a trip by kayak through the maze of rivers and lakes. Our parents decide, instead, to hike the winding paths of Labanoras Regional Park. At Ignalina district, we get a hands-on experience of baking a traditional Lithuanian “tree cake”. A short drive towards Anykščiai town brings us to a horse museum and a summer toboggan run on Kalita Hill. The hospitable Highlanders always take good care of their guests, they'll cook pancakes, homemade bread, and Lithuania’s famous farmers cheese with cranberry jam. After washing it down with some mead, we retire to our secluded holiday cottage in the woods.
ay:
d ext holi
en Over th
Useful links: www.kalitoskalnas.lt www.birzumuziejus.lt www.ignalinatic.lt www.panevezysinfo.lt www.infomoletai.lt www.utenainfo.lt www.kedainiutvic.lt
of the ital city the cap i.lt/tic; i, a s ra a go to Z es, www.zarasa lak f the land of banks o memade ho e on the rs e k o a h b a ride learn to .antour.lt/en/; d n a ji o i, www Švent Anykščia /; bread in omuziejus.lt/en li ojis ru www.ark k a P is and k iš tic.lt / rb s ji u o visit B w.pakru w w , n mansio kiotic.lt; lands, kis s wood www.ro banora a L in s rrie pick be p.lt. www.an
1 2 3 4
6 Samogitia region
Hospitable
Samogitia region 7
Samogitia
Samogitia is the region I have been looking forward to seeing the most. My father was born in Telšiai, one of the larger Samogitian towns. Still, I feel as though in a foreign country. He and his relatives speak in a dialect that is barely comprehensible to me. Just think–Lithuania is so small, but some regions are so different that we Lithuanians can barely understand each other. It’s not only the dialect that distinguishes Samogitians. Other Lithuanians say Samogitians are very persistent. Once they set their minds to something, there is no dissuading them. Yet they are also very hospitable and attentive. Wherever we visit, we are treated to a feast of traditional food and drink: dried apple kvass, braised cabbage with pork leg, ubagynė soup, Samogitian kastinys with hot potatoes, the famous cibulinė (onion) soup. And, of course, Samogitian pancakes. What a delight! But then I think to myself: another few days of eating this way and I will need a new wardrobe. Samogitia can boast of many intresting things. Have you heard about the former secret nuclear weapons base here in Plokštinė Forest? Now it hosts the Cold War Museum, which has a 27-meter deep shaft and Soviet Army relics on display. We visit two other museums, as well – Mosėdis Rock Museum, which contains a surprisingly interesting exhibition of thousands of interesting and unique stones, and the Alka Museum of Samogitia, dedicated to the history of this region.
In Varniai we stop by Lūkstas Lake – the only lake in Lithuania where amber has been found. And Varniai is also known for hosting the annual international blues festival Bliuzo Naktys, which started two decades ago. Locals tell us it’s a lot of fun and definitely worth coming back to see. They invited us to come in winter during the Pancake Tuesday festival because the Samogitians, wearing gorgeous masks, celebrate the driving out of winter in the merriest ways. I cannot imagine a holiday in Lithuania without going to the coast, so I eagerly await the moment when I can dip my toes in the Baltic, search for amber on the seashore and relax on the beach. The Baltic Seacoast is one of the most pristine in Europe with beaches of fine white sand and rustling pines. Let‘s go to the sea!
liday:
Over the next ho
Useful links: www.zemaitijosnp.lt www.akmenumuziejus.lt www.atostogoskaime.lt www.telsiaitic.lt www.bliuzonaktys.lt www.oginski.lt tic.siauliai.lt
1 2 3 4
of Crosses, walk on the Hill s.lt; www.kryziukalna lake, dive in Plateliai ; s.lt sa pu to www.ok ansion and m i na vė visit Kurtu rtuva.lt; ku w. ride a horse, ww i čia ai walk around Darg and ge lla Vi ic ph ra Ethnog e ag rit he ary taste the culin ajonas.lt. ur uli sia w. ww s, dishe
8 Lithuania Minor
Lithuania Minor 9
Lithuania Minor and the Coastal Region Lithuania Minor is the smallest, but the most dramatic region of Lithuania, with its enchanting dunes, pine forests, ornate wooden houses topped by traditional weathercocks, old lighthouses, canals, marshes and a great bird migration port. We come to this littoral region and separate. My parents headed towards Kartena Manor, visited Kretinga Museum and its conservatory, and even had time to try out the golf course. After that, its the seaside resort town of Palanga, with its storied Amber Museum in an elegant manor house located in a beautiful Botanical Park right next to the beach. Meanwhile, we opt for bikes, which are available for rent in a homesteads near the sea. Pedaling the well-maintained seaside bike trails provides magnificent impressions of this coastal region. In Old Town Klaipėda, we meet friends waiting for us in Friedrich’s Arcade. They suggest a tour of Švyturys Brewery, where one of Lithuania’s most popular beers is made, and also Maritime Museum. The remains of Klaipėda Castle are also on our list of things to see the next day. Klaipėda is also known for its Sea Festival, Jazz Festival that take place every summer and spectacular tall ships parades. The next morning, our parents are on their way by ferry to the Curonian Spit – the scenic isthmus of dunes and pine forests that separates the Curonian Lagoon from the Baltic Sea. There, in the town of Juodkrantė, they visit a sculpture park, climb the dunes and then proceed to the next town, Nida. My sister and I opt for a tour of Ventė Cape – the other side of the Lagoon, from where we can see the Curonian Spit. Our friends were already waiting for us in Svencelė village, where sailing and kitesurfing are the activity of the day for
us. It was magnificent! There’s almost always wind here – perfect conditions to learn these sports and there are some quaint bed and breakfasts and small hotels where you can overnight. You’ll never guess where we slept: in maritime cargo containers that have been transformed into a hip hotel! Before leaving Nida, we dropped into the Šturmų Švyturys, a small hotel on the lagoon shore with a small cosy fish restaurant that serves nothing but fresh fish cought early that morning in the Curonian Lagoon. And you can quickly have the pleasure of eating it on the cosy outdoor terrace with a stunning view of the lagoon and the Grey (Dead) Dunes. We depart from nearby Ventainė for Nida by boat. Rejoining our parents, we climb the Parnidis Dune and are transfixed by the magnificent panoramic view. Both the Curonian Lagoon and the Baltic Sea are visible from there. I say to myself: “If there is paradise on earth, it must be here, on the Curonian Spit. Definitely a must-see for everyone”.
l gica holo fo.lt; t i n r in pe O silute nex ian e Ca www. he t t uan n r h , e t e i n V L v O e to utum the e– com on in a lag info.lt; l i i t v a St ge ute Min w.sil ry, visit ce, ww elle i jew ery.lt; r Ven e l amb rgal buy .ambe on the . , w t ann .com ; h ww yac goon T. M neringa f a o a it in s sail nian L useum ww.vis o m nga, w y Cur r i o Ner hist visit lode in B H.
ay:
lid t ho
Useful links: www.klaipedainfo.lt www.palangatic.lt www.pgm.lt www.muziejus.lt www.visitneringa.com www.neringa.lt www.svencele.lt www.sturmusvyturys.lt
1
2 3 4 5
10 Suvalkija region
The Plains of
Suvalkija region 11
Suvalkija
We depart for Suvalkija along the Panemunė Route – a scenic road that runs almost from the coast along the Nemunas River all the way to Kaunas. A string of castles here once protected Lithuania from invading armies. The castles were later tranformed into manor houses, like Panemunė Castle and Raudonė Castle, with its tall brick tower.
Perhaps this explains why world-renowned opera singer Violeta Urmana comes from Suvalkija? Full of impressions and a bit tired, we decided to relax in Harmony Park. Here we enjoy some spa treatments and, the next day, we go horseback riding. We meet other guests from not only the neighbouring countries, but also from further away, who had come to Lithuania to relax and enjoy the peace and quit of its nature. I think to myself: Lithuanians are lucky. They do not need to go far - so much is right at their fingertips.
Leaving the City of Kaunas for another day, we head South to Birštonas, a resort town famous for its spas and sanatoriums. I am very surprised to learn that this town has no fresh water – only salty mineral water, for which Birštonas has been known from the fifteenth century. We visit one of Birštonas’s pumprooms to taste the salty mineral water. Our treat of the evening awaits us at Nemunas Bend Regional Park: a hot air balloon flight that gives us a birdseye view of the plains of Suvalkija. I am nervous about my first flight in a hot air balloon, but as soon as we take off, I feel an inescapable sense of peace and serenity come over me, with the forests, lakes, and river under my feet. We fly over the beautiful parks surrounding Kiduliai, Zypliai and Paežeriai Manors, the verdant meadows and cultivated fields of Suvalkija. Suvalkija is a flat region that boasts particularly fertile farmland. This land, worked by the diligent Suvalkian people since time immemorial, has made farmers from this region the wealthiest in the 19th and 20th centuries. Suvalkians are famous for their frugality. There are many jokes about them, for instance: “What does a Suvalkian say when he’s trying to be generous? Take two.” Suvalkian dried meat, skilandis, with bread baked on sweet myrtle is finger-licking good! When Suvalkians speak, it sounds like they are singing.
Over the next holiday:
Useful links: www.jurbarkotic.lt www.nemunodelta.lt www.visitbirstonas.lt www.vilkaviskisinfo.lt tic.sesupe.lt
1 2 3 4 5
visit Žuvintas biosphere nature reserve, www.zuvintas.lt; walk through the old town of Kaunas, www.kaunastic.lt; listen to the concert in Pažaislis monastery during the festival in Kaunas, www.pazaislis.lt; walk around Vištytis Regional park, www.vistytis.lt; sail in Birštonas in Nemunas in Viking ships, www.visitbirstonas.lt
12 Dzūkija region
Dzūkija region 13
Dzūkija Land of Mushrooms and Berries On our way to Dzūkija, I recall the famous Lithuanian saying: “If not for mushrooms and no berries, Dzūkian girls would have nothing to wear. If not for buckwheat and lentils, Dzūkian boys would wear shabby clothes”. Dzūkija is the least fertile, but the most forested region of Lithuania. So forests have traditionally been the main source of livelihood for many: Dzūkians sell the mushrooms and berries that they gather in forest. Dzūkija is proud of its stunningly beautiful pinewoods full of good things to eat, ethnographic villages, and rapid, clear spring water rivers, which are popular kayaking routes. You can admire Dzūkija's beauty not only while kayaking but also while hiking and driving. We rode our bikes on the sandy forest paths around the village of Musteika, famous for its ancient beekeeping traditions, visited Marcinkonys Ethnographic Museum, and chatted with the local village inhabitants. Dzūkians are very hospitable and love to socialize. Dzūkians say guests are like a gift from God. It doesn’t take long to be invited to their table, where you are offered nothing short of feast. We are treated by some locals to soup made of freshly-picked mushrooms in a carved out breadloaf, apple cheese and buckwheat pie... and got a bag of dried boletus mushrooms, to boot! Dzūkija is a true paradise for tourists. The Dzūkian town of Druskininkai is Lithuania’s most popular spa destination, with several resorts that provide wellness and medical treatments, as well as saunas, pools and waterslides for fun and relaxation. Looking at the menu of treatments, it was hard to decide what to choose. A bath in mineral water or a mudbath? Perhaps a honey mask, or maybe some amber therapy?
Druskininkai resort is open year-round. Visitors can stay in hotels that range from simple and cosy to chic and fancy... or at a campground in the centre of town. We choose this option for the night. The air is fragrant with the scent of pine and the relaxing walk is just the thing before bedtime. The next day, we visit Grūtas Park. The owner of the park collected as many Soviet-era sculptures as he could, preserving them as a memento of that dark period in Lithuanian history. Then, we decide to go wild. We spend some time on rollerskates, then climb to the treetops at ONE Adventure Park and then... you won’t believe this... we went to the ski slope! In the middle of summer! The Snow Arena in Druskininkai is one of the largest indoor mountain ski slope complexes in Europe. But we’re not done yet. In the evening, we hit the waterslides at Druskininkai Water Park and indulged ourselves in the sauna - there are actually twenty different types of them there. Our vacation in Lithuania is definitely active!
Over the n
Useful links: www.alytus-tourism.lt www.snowarena.lt www.info.druskininkai.lt www.akvapark.lt www.grutoparkas.lt
1 2 3 4
ext holida y
:
visit the ch eesemaker s home in Dargužiai, www.surin inkunamai attend a re .lt; al mushroo m festival Varėna, w in ww.varena. lt; pick some cranberrie s in a swam real challen p–a ge www.cep keliai-dzuki climbe on ja.lt; Liškiava m ound, www.piliak alniai.lt.
Lithuania in a Nutshell
itija Aukšta itia Samog or nia Min Lithua ija Suvalk a Dzūkij
Official Name: Republic of Lithuania
Events in Lithuania
Area: 65,300 sq. km. Population: 2,97 million (2013). Political System: multiparty parliamentary democracy.
I open the last page of my blog. Two weeks have flown by in no time. Our Lithuanian Summer has been lovely – mostly sunny, with a light sand in my pocket and some pleasantly refreshing summer showers. Summer in Lithuania is great for travel and the Lithuanians are the masters of devising all kinds of entertainment. Lithuanians have thought of all sorts of fun, it's enouth to make your head spin: various international festivals and village choir contests! Street Music Day is heard throughout Lithuania. And then there is the cultural festival Let there be night when you can attend a multitude of events and see unique performaces during just one night in Vilnius. But Lithuanians have the most fun celebrating traditional holidays. On Midsummer the night people all over Lithuania look for a fern blossom, place wreaths made of herbs on the water, and light bonfires.
Head of State: President, elected every five years. Government: Prime Minister and Executive Branch. Parliament: Seimas, a unicameral legislature elected every four years. The Republic of Lithuania is a member of the EU and NATO. In 2007 it acceded to the Schengen area, which provides for visa-free travel between member-states. Time Zone: GMT + 2 hours. Capital City: Vilnius, population 537,000 (2013). State Language: Lithuanian, which belongs to the Baltic language group. National currency: Lithuanian litas (LTL) (1 EUR = 3.4528 LTL). Internet: 73% of the population use the Internet. Country Code: +370
But summer is not the only season for fun in Lithuania. In winter, I'd like to celebrate Christmas here and to join the Samogitians in driving Winter out of the courtyard on Pancake Tuesday, in spring to stroll around St Casimir's Fair, the capital's annual festival, where craftsmen and ordinary people sell their handicrafts, to buy a colourful Easter palm "verba" (You won't find a prettier one anywhere in the world!), and learn how to decorate an Easter egg, and in autumn I would come to pick mushrooms and cranberries.
Information: +370 700 55 118
Oh, it is difficult for me to tell you all the things our country has to offer! I am sure that the next time we travel to Lithuania, you will join us.
Topography: Lithuania is a country of plains and forests: about 75% of the country’s terrain is plains and as much as 31% of the country is forest.
See you soon!
Emergency telephone: 112, 911 Population by Ethnicity: Lithuanians – 83.7%, Poles – 6.6%, Russians – 5.3%, Belarusians – 1.3%, other minorities – 3%. Climate: Maritime/continental. Average temperature in July +16.7 °C, in January –5.1 °C. Snow is common in Winter.
Seaside: Lithuania has 90 km of Baltic Sea coastline and three blue flag beaches in Palanga and Neringa (2013).
Map of Europe
Finland Plateliai Palanga
Baltic S ea
Klaipėda
Norway Sweden
Russia
Estonia
Nida
Telšiai
Šiauliai Panevėžys Anykščiai
Šilutė Kėdainiai
Ignalina
Kaunas Birštonas
Baltic Sea
Lithuania
North Sea
Ireland
Utena
Jurbarkas
Latvia
Denmark
Zarasai
Marijampolė
Trakai
Vilnius
Alytus
Druskininkai
Belarus Poland Germany
Great Britain
Taxi: In major Lithuanian cities, taxis can be ordered by Internet at
Netherlands
www.etaksi.lt. Ukraine
Belgium Czech Republic Slovakia Austria France
Switzerland Slovenia
Airports: in Vilnius (www.vilnius-airport.lt), Kaunas (www.kaunas-airport.lt), in Palanga (www.palanga-airport.lt) and in Šiauliai (www.siauliai-airport.com). Hungary
Portugal
Romania
Croatia Bosnia and Herzegovina
Italy
Railroads: www.litrail.lt. Buses: www.eurolines.lt, www.ecolines.lt, www.simpleexpress.lt, www.luxexpress.eu, www.autobusustotis.lt, www.autobusubilietai.lt. Roads: Lithuanian roads and their network infrastructure is of good quality and well-developed. Lithuania is intersected by six European highways.
Serbia
Montenegro Kosovo
Bulgaria
Macedonia Albania Spain
Ferries: sea ferries are available to the port of Klaipėda from the ports of Sweden, Denmark, Russia and Germany (www.dfdsseaways.lt, www.krantas.lt, www.portofklaipeda.lt) and domestic ferries travel from/ to Klaipeda and the Curonian Spit (www.keltas.lt).
Driving speed: in residential areas – 50 km/h, on country roads – 90 km/h on motorways – 110 km/h (from 01 November to 31 March) and 130 km/h (from 01 April to 31 October), unless the road signs indicate otherwise. Roadside assistance: + 370 5 210 4422 (24/7).
Greece
Mediterranean sea
Photos of R. Požerskis, M. Požerskytė, L. Ciūnys, Z. Rotautas, M. Medišauskas, R. Bolgov, P. Spūdys, G. Kaltenis, Archive of the Lithuanian National Cultural Centre, R. Anusauskas, „Shutterstock“ archive were used in the publication..
Lithuanian State Department of Tourism under the Ministry of Economy Gedimino pr. 38, LT-01104 Vilnius, Lithuania Tel. +370 5 210 8796, Fax +370 5 210 8753 E-mail: vtd@tourism.lt www. tourism.lt
www.Lithuania.travel