E XC LUS I V E M AG A Z I N E F O R T H E J E W E L L E R Y B US I N E S S I N T H E B A LT I C SE A R E G I O N
September 2016 (31)
FASTEST WAY TO THE BALTIC SEA REGION!
Europe‘s top show for gems & jewellery in autumn.
n i o 6! iss r a t 0 1 t m st th 2 n’ e g i 0 Do r r ril 3 to p bi A h i e: ex d l i n a de
Meet the international Gemworld in Munich.
www.gemworldmunich.com
The
stock market downturn and the economic downturn in China, the permanent danger of the next wave of the financial crisis, the unsolved issue of Greek
debt, war in the Near East, the foreseeable and unforeseeable Brexit consequences, the weak rouble, the strong Swiss franc and American dollar, the drop in oil price... – the list
of negative factors influencing the consumption of luxury goods, and consequently the condition of the jewellery and amber industries, is really long. It is a difficult time and requires the ability to react instantly to the market changes – and even better, precede the consequences of the events that are yet to happen. This, however as reality has shown, is not really that easy. As the Chinese no longer want to buy so many, or such expensive products with Baltic amber – it’s hard to imagine the losses that the producers, who still have a lot of the highest quality products stored in their warehouses, will incur. Swiss watch producers are facing a similar predicament, their sales have been increasing on the Asian markets, especially the Chinese. Now, however, they have to accept the fact that they are unlikely to find new customers on those markets. Both industries will face a fall from a great height – they have never had such fantastic turnover as in the last few years. The industry appears to be coming back to a realistic size. Today, more and more Chinese, fearing the anti-corruption investigations by their government and facing the weakening economic situation, opt for more discrete decorations. The situation is similar on other markets, especially in Russia where as a result of the weakening rouble, gold is not in a very good situation any more. Many refined watch brands have already reacted to this trend and supplemented their product line with models in attractive prices – over €10,000 will buy a manufacturer produced watch, which was unheard of a year ago. Things look similar in the jewellery industry, where there are more and more dainty designs at very moderate prices. Those who are able to quickly spot the newest client preferences are the ones who will win.
Anna SADO
September 2016 (31)
10 BREXIT
Gold is fulfilling its classic role as a safe haven asset after Brexit vote. Purchases of gold coins were already up sharply in the months running up to the vote. This has had a positive impact on gold miners and further increased the attractiveness of gold.
30 RUSSIA
Kaliningrad Amber Combine realises its responsibility for the current situation in the industry. First Economic Forum of Amber Industry will be an open platform for discussion of all up-to-date issues and searching for new ways of industry development in general.
44 POLAND
Polish government intends to supress illegal amber mining and by doing that is unfortunatelly planning to introduce some rather far-fetched and unfavourable changes for the amber jewellers concerning the rules of amber mining in Poland.
68 LITHUANIA
The amber market had been growing over the past 6 years, but perhaps this growth has already stopped and we would return to normal business conditions like in other industries, when business grows and drops little by little.
86
In Ukraine more than 60 tons of amber is mined illegally per year by using illegally acquired licenses and connivance of the local authorities. Illegal amber business in the country has reached the state scale relying on influential patrons at the capital authorities.
78
Younger people in China are looking for more individual expression nowdays. Traditional, generic designs do not satisfy the market anymore – what does it mean for amber industry?
UKRAINE
CHINA
Baltic Jewellery News / September 2016 (31) Paplaujos st. 5–7, LT-11342, Vilnius, Lithuania Tel. / Fax: +370 5 2608497; E-mail: office@balticjewellerynews.com Editor / Anna Sado / E-mail: info@balticjewellerynews.com Designer / DANA SMITIENE, Translators / VERTIMU GURU, CIRCULATION 3 000
Distribution in the whole Baltic Sea Region. Copyright: Contents of “Baltic Jewellery News” are copyright. ISSN 2335-2132 Reproduction of material in part or in whole is not permitted in any form without the written authorization of the publisher. The editorial office is not responsible for the content of advertisements and for the accuracy of the facts presented by the authors.
We invite all those whose interests are related to our goals to join our project. With the help of various perspectives and opening of new discussions the jewellery business in the region can become clear and more beneficiary for everyone. Thank you for the cooperation!
CONTENT Topicalities 4
Easrern European jewellery market – trend and
10
Gold surges after Brexit becomes reality
74
The catalogue of ships
76
The moment when a piece of jewellery meets the
Estonian Jewellery Report
prospects
right owner…
German Jewellery Report
Chinese Jewellery Report
12
Germany’s jewellery market report
14
Intergem 2016 draws in visitors with unique
78
China jewellery market report
expertise
79
Hong Kong jewellery market report
Swedish Jewellery Report 16
Sweden’s jewellery market report
18
Sara Malm. HDK – academy of design and crafts.
South Korean Jewellery Report 80
Breaking preconceptions about amber
82
Juvelir expo Ukraine 2016
84
Ukraine’s Jewellery market report
86
Ukrainian amber – billion-dolar issues and solutions
Ukrainian Jewellery Report
Selected Graduate
Finnish Jewellery Report 20
Talking with Tiina Rajakallio
Russian Jewellery Report
Worldwide Jewellery report
22
To Karl Faberge’s anniversary
26
“Prussky miod”: contemporary ethnics
30
The First Economic Forum of Amber Industry –
89
The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber
One of the largest industry discussion platforms
92
The Worldwide Silver Price
was created in Russia
93
The Worldwide Gold Price
34
Russia’s jewellery market report
38
Festival Silver in Legnica – 2016
40
Amber wedding anniversary after 44 years of
88
Combine
International Amber Association Report
Polish Jewellery Report 94
Poland cut of its own amber?
46
Jubinale 2016
50
Appealing products and designs – Ambermart
52
Gala amber look trends & styles 2016
55 GeoAmber – amber that attracts
A new amber gallery in Gdansk!
Inclusions
marriage? 44
Official Price for raw amber by Kaliningrad Amber
96
Ancient Flowering plant was beautiful – but probably poisonous
Personality 100
Our jewellery is “Ambitious”
Lithuanian Jewellery Report
Other
56
Enchanted by a dress made from amber
104
Cartoon
60
“Metallophone – one of the kind
105
Major Jewellery Trade Fairs
64
“My Home”
106
Flashbacks
66
Nature morte – Art Jewellery Competition
68
Exhibition “Amber Trip” – is a platform for deals and market analysis
Latvian Jewellery Report 72
Conversation with a cloud
Jewellery by SAVVY
TOPICALITIES
Photo by Katarzyna JANKOWIAK www.PicaPica.pl
EASTERN EUROPEAN JEWELLERY MARKET – TRENDS AND PROSPECTS By Kseniia GALENYTSKA, Research analyst at Euromonitor International
Kseniia GALENYTSKA
According
to Euromonitor Inter na t ional, in 2016 the
jewellery market in Eastern Europe reached retail value sales of US$7.8 billion, which constituted only 2 % of global jewellery sales. Thus, Eastern Europe is currently ranked as fifth of the seven regions worldwide in total value terms. At the same time, the per capita spend on jewellery in Eastern Europe was US$23.7 in 2016, which was close to half the worldwide average, albeit eight times lower than the average spending of inhabitants of North America – the region with highest per capital consumption of jewellery. Such a difference in spending on jewellery between the regions is dictated by the gap in disposable incomes and living standards. In 2016, the jewellery market in Eastern Europe declined by 4 % in constant US dollar terms. This performance was attributed to the deep economic and political crisis in the largest jewellery markets – Russia and Ukraine – which shrank by 6 % and 13 % in constant US dollar terms respectively. At the same time, in Poland and Romania, the jewellery market benefited from positive economic developments and experienced value growth of 4 % and 1 % respectively in constant US dollar terms in 2016.
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4
PER CAPITA SIZE AND GROWTH OF THE JEWELLERY
have broadened their silver collections, making them more
MARKET
fashionable and innovative and combining them with various precious and semi-precious metals, stones and colourful
4
enamels, experimenting with sizes and forms. Overall, sales 17,86
of jewellery made of silver increased by 6 % in Russia and by 17 % in Ukraine in current US dollar terms to comprise 39 % and
2
38 % of total retail value jewellery sales respectively in 2016. 0 16,79 -20 -15 -10 -5 5 10
30,64
made of gold is on the rise. Positive economic developments as
-2 -4
18,52
In contrast, in Poland and Romania demand for jewellery
-6 -8
Russia
well as strengthening consumer purchasing power benefited
Ukraine
the sales of golden jewellery in both countries. In Romania
Poland
gold mostly gained popularity in small-sized items, such as
Romania
earrings and rings. In 2016, the share of gold in jewellery grew by about 11 % in retail value current US dollar terms
Growth for 2016
to comprise 49 % of total jewellery sales in 2016. Wedding
Note: data is stated in retail value sales, US$, fixed exchange rate, constant terms. The size of the bubble with data labels on top indicates the per capita consumption of jewellery in the respective markets.
rings are mainly responsible for such a high share and are expected to benefit the position of gold in the future as well.
Source: Euromonitor International
In Poland gold jewellery is seen as an attractive investment: while saving was becoming less profitable due to low interest
SILVER IS GAINING MOMENTUM IN RUSSIA AND UKRAINE, WHILE GOLD IS ON THE RISE IN POLAND AND ROMANIA
rates, consumers tended to invest more in goods that hold their value, such as gold. It is popular to buy gold jewellery on such occasions as christenings, communions, engagements and weddings in Poland. Overall in 2016 gold strengthened
Russia and Ukraine have both been experiencing a
its position by 1 % in current US dollar terms to comprise
severe economic and political crisis in recent years. Declining
46 % of retail value sales of total jewellery.
consumer purchasing power and overall economic uncertainty forced people to focus on basic spending, economising on
Positive economic developments as well as strengthening consumer
purchases of jewellery, which is known to be a non-essential good. However, people have not completely turned away
PURCHASING POWER BENEFITED THE SALES of golden jewellery in POLAND andROMANIA.
from jewellery as it still remains a popular present for various occasions, and they also continue buying it to treat themselves. At the same time, the crisis changed the jewellery preferences of consumers in Russia and Ukraine, who switched from traditionally popular gold to silver, as gold became unaffordable for many consumers due to the unrealistically
ARE DIAMONDS STILL A GIRL’S BEST FRIEND?
high unit prices resulting from currency devaluation. In
Diamonds have traditionally been gemstones that are
addition, if, previously, Russians and Ukrainians were choosing
combined mainly with gold and platinum, the two precious
gold jewellery to highlight their social status, currently, people
metals of the highest value. Thus, the final price of real jewellery
are paying more attention to fashion trends and jewellery
articles with diamonds has generally been very high and
design, opting for silver collections. Moreover, the quality of
affordable only to a limited segment of consumers. The position
real jewellery made from silver tends to be quite high and it
of diamond collections in the last few years has been supported
is often virtually impossible to differentiate between white
by the culture of presenting a diamond engagement ring at
gold and silver. The combination of gold and silver is gaining
the time of a marriage proposal. Such a tradition came from
momentum in Russia and Ukraine, and, while articles are
Western Europe and is actively spread by the leading jewellery
basically made from silver with small elements produced of
manufacturers in Eastern European countries. In 2016, Poland
gold, it still creates the image of the jewellery piece containing
was the country with the highest share of diamond collections
white and rose gold, but at much lower prices than items
within total jewellery, comprising 19 %, with sales having grown
made entirely from gold. As a result, real jewellery producers
by 2 % compared to 2015 in current US dollar retail value terms.
www.balticjewellerynews.com
5
TOPICALITIES
Avarage annual growth 2011–2016
6
TOPICALITIES
In Romania diamonds are recognised as a profitable investment,
various occasions. Home-made costume jewellery and local
and diamond collections sales grew by 27 % in current US dollar
niche brands have been increasing in popularity in recent
terms in 2016 to reach 9 % of total real jewellery retail value
years as they offer exclusive jewellery with individual designs.
sales. However, the share of diamond collections in Romania
Overall, the perception of costume jewellery has changed
still remains the lowest among Eastern European countries.
with time in Russia and Ukraine – if costume jewellery was
In Russia and Ukraine the reverse trend was observed – real
initially considered as having little intrinsic value and being of
jewellery with diamonds became too expensive for many
poor quality, it is now considered as being an indispensable
consumers in recent years due to falling consumer incomes,
accessory for every fashion-driven woman. In Poland costume
devalued national currencies and, as a consequence, rising
jewellery is actively advertised by celebrities who present
purchasing prices for imported raw materials. In Russia retail
such products in mass media in order to create a positive
value sales of diamond collections declined by 17 % in 2016 in
personal image. Overall in Eastern Europe social networks
current US dollar terms, while in Ukraine retail value sales of
such as Facebook, Instagram or Vkontakte are becoming an
real jewellery with diamonds dropped by 16 % in current US
important promotion channel for costume jewellery, especially
dollar terms. Consumers in Russia and Ukraine are shifting their
for young and hand-made brands.
preferences towards cheaper coloured natural and synthetic
BRIGHT PROSPECTS FOR JEWELLERY MARKET IN EASTERN EUROPE
stones, with topaz, cubic zirconia and amethyst among the most popular and most affordable. The addition of Swarovski crystals and Swarovski zirconia to jewellery has been extremely
Gradual economic recovery in the largest jewellery markets
popular in recent years. The brand name plays a crucial role
of Russia and Ukraine will, to a great extent, drive the growth
in tempting consumers to opt for jewellery with elements
of total sales of jewellery in Eastern Europe in the long-term
produced by well-known and appreciated brands. It should also
forecast period. At the same time, positive developments
be noted that producers are replacing large carat diamonds
in smaller markets such as Poland and Romania will also
with diamond placers, with the combination of small diamonds
contribute to the overall increase in the jewellery market in
being seen to give a similar visual effect at a much lower price.
Eastern Europe by a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 2 % over 2016–2021 in constant US dollar terms. It should
COSTUME JEWELLERY AS A RESPONSE TO FASHION TRENDS
be noted that the forecast growth will be stronger than the review period’s equivalent CAGR of 0 % in constant US dollar
Demand for costume jewellery is dictated by fashion
terms. The strengthening of consumer spending power in
trends and is stimulated by the growing supply of these
Eastern European countries is expected to boost demand
products in Eastern Europe. Costume jewellery has become an
for more expensive branded jewellery in the long term.
indispensable part of women’s daily image and the opportunity
Costume jewellery is forecast to outperform real jewellery –
to frequently replace items to suit various apparel styles is
while costume jewellery is expected to record a CAGR of 3 %,
highly appreciated by Eastern European consumers. In Russia
real jewellery will experience a CAGR of 1 % in constant US
and Ukraine costume jewellery was performing better than
dollar terms over the next five years. This trend is explained
real jewellery in 2016. The category benefited from offering
by the growing availability of costume jewellery in Eastern
more affordable types of jewellery, which particularly appeal to
Europe. In addition, consumers are expected to evolve the
young, fashion-conscious consumers. Moreover, an increasing
culture of wearing different types of jewellery, not only fine
number of new players – from huge international companies
jewellery, following Western trends, with the aesthetic look of
to small, home-made producers – is appearing every year
products rather than the materials they are made of prioritised.
in this segment. These companies are paying increased
Furthermore, internet retailing will be another key factor in
attention to the quality of their jewellery and following all
driving the development of costume jewellery, owing to the
of the latest fashion trends by creating special collections for
easier comparison of prices and products available online.
Gradual economic recovery in the largest jewellery markets of
RUSSIA and UKRAINE will, to a great extent, DRIVE THE GROWTH OF TOTAL SALES OF JEWELLERY IN EASTERN EUROPE IN THE LONG-TERM FORECAST PERIOD. www.balticjewellerynews.com
6
CHART 1: THE GOLD PRICE IS BACK TO ITS AUGUST 2014 LEVEL* US$/oz
TOPICALITIES
1,400 1,350 1,300 1,250 1,200
GOLD SURGES after Brexit becomes reality
1,150 1,100 1,050 1,000
Jan Jul Jan Jul Jan 2014 2014 2015 2015 2016 *The latest price as of 24 June 2016 is based on the AM LBMA Gold Price. Source: Bloomberg, ICE Benchmark Administration Ltd., World Gold Council
Report by GOLD WORLD COUSIL Gold’s performance vis-a-vis other assets has been even
With Britain voting to exit the European Union, we expect to see strong and sustained inflows into the gold market driven by the staggering level of protracted uncertainty that investors now face. The gold price surged to US$1,313.85/oz on 24th of June, up 6 % from23rd of June, providing investors with a much-needed safe haven. Sterling is trading at a 31-year low and world equity markets have plummeted. The Bank of England has said that it stands ready to take whatever action is necessary, a mantra that is likely to be repeated by other central banks. In practice, this could mean interest rates move further into negative territory in parts of the world, another positive for gold. Central bank action has already capped the gain in other safe haven assets, with the Swiss National Bank intervening early this morning.
more impressive. Sterling has fallen to a 31-year low against the dollar and world stock markets have tumbled. The FTSE100 and Euro Stoxx were down 5 % and 10 % respectively on 24th of June (Chart 2).
CHART 2: UK EQUITIES, EUROPEAN EQUITIES AND THE BRITISH POUND (INDEX 01/01/2016=100) Index level
105 100 95 90 85 80
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun 2016 2016 2016 2016 2016 2016
■ FTSE 100
GOLD SURGES AS BREXIT BECOMES REALITY
■ Euro Stoxx 50
■ GBPUSD
Source: Bloomberg, World Gold Council
It is difficult to find an event to compare this to. While The gold price surged to US$1,313.85/oz on 24th of June,
trading blocs have broken down before, none have been as
on the AM LBMA Gold Price, up from US$1,265.75/oz the day
sizeable and important to the global economy as Europe.
before, and the highest level since 2014 (Chart 1). It traded as high as US$1,358.54/oz in Asian trading hours, as news of a
After Brexit vote gold price suges
likely Leave victory started to emerge. This has had a positive
TO THE HIGHEST LEVEL SINCE 2014!
impact on gold miners, too: UK listed gold miners were up 10–20 % on 24th of June.
www.balticjewellerynews.com
10
GOLD FULFILS ITS CLASSIC SAFE HAVEN ROLE
and a downgrading in economic growth forecasts in June had already seen expectations of a US Federal Reserve interest rate the European Union will likely push expectations out even
performing exactly as the many investors that bought it in the
further. And some central banks may push interest rates further
run up to the referendum will have hoped. We expect to see
into negative territory, increasing the investment challenges
strong and sustained inflows into the gold market driven by the
for buy and hold investors like pension funds. Indeed, after the
intense market uncertainty that now faces the global markets.
vote we could see an entirely new class of gold investor emerge.
Gold ETF holdings have also been increasing sharply, a trend
Central bank actions will also increase the attractiveness of
we expect to see accelerate, as both retail and institutional
gold vis-a-vis other safe haven assets. The Swiss National Bank
investors re-allocate funds to gold (Chart 3). Purchases of gold
has already intervened in currency markets on 24th of June to
coins by small retail investors, which were already up sharply in
stop the appreciation of the Swiss franc. Gold is unique in
the months running up to the vote, should accelerate further.
this respect: it does not carry intervention risk. As a high quality, liquid asset, we believe gold will provide investors with a hedge against market uncertainty, economic, political and intervention risk.
CHART 3: GOLD-BACKED ETFS ALREADY BENEFITED FROM FLIGHT-TO-QUALITY FLOWS IN JUNE, AND WE EXPECT
There are no precedents for a country leaving Europe,
MORE. GLOBAL GOLD-BACKED ETF FLOWS BY MONTH
but other systemic risk events offer some insight into the role that gold can play in wealth preservation during extreme
Tonnes
stress events (Chart 4). During the European sovereign debt
250
crisis gold rose by 12 % as fears of a widespread meltdown
200
increased. There is a reason why the world’s central banks
150
hold so much of their national wealth in gold – you can see
100
that in no uncertain terms today.
50 0
CHART 4: GOLD TENDS TO OUTPERFORM IN PERIODS OF
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun 2016 2016 2016 2016 2016 2016
SYSTEMIC CRISIS
*As of 23 June 2016. Source: Bloomberg, Respective ETF providers, World Gold Council
Return
Level change
60 %
60
There has already been a sharp uptick in activity on the
40 %
40
Shanghai Gold Exchange. Trading volume spiked, reaching
20 %
20
346t compared to a daily average of close to 100t since the
0%
0
start of the year.
-20 %
-20
We could also see an increase in central bank purchases of
-40 %
-40
gold. Sterling is one of the world’s few reserve currencies, but
-60 %
-60
has fallen to a 31-year low. Moreover, S&P Global Ratings on 24th
Black LTCM Dot-com 9/11 2002 Great Sove- Sove Monday crisis bubble rece- Rece- reign reign ssion ssion debt debt crisis I crisis II
of June said that UK bonds could lose their AAA credit rating.
NEGATIVE INTEREST RATES TO SUPPORT GOLD DEMAND
■ S&P 500 return
■ Commodities return
■ Level change in VIX
■ US Treasuries return
■ Gold return
Returns during periods of systemic risk. Persian Gulf War I: Q3 1990, LTCM: Q3
As well as market uncertainty, gold is supported by
1998, Dot-com meltdown: Q1 2001, 9/11: Q3 2001, 2002 recession: Q2/Q3 2002, US Credit Crisis: Q4 2008/Q1 2009, European sovereign debt crisis: Q2 2010.
monetary policy actions. If central banks are forced to
Source: Bloomberg, World Gold Council
implement supportive measures they will likely come in the form of further extraordinary actions, new rate cuts or delays in planned hikes. Worse-than-expected US labour market data
www.balticjewellerynews.com
11
TOPICALITIES
hike pushed out to the end of the year. Britain’s departure from Gold is fulfilling its classic role as a safe haven asset and
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Coloured gemstones in Gemworld Munich.
GERMANY’S JEWELLERY MARKET REPORT TRENDS
traffic for retailers, which of course impacts sales opportunities
Jewellery value sales recorded further growth in 2016
and potential growth of jewellery specialists. Customer
showing a positive development for costume jewellery
frequency in shopping centres and city centres decreased
and fine jewellery alike. Main drivers for growth were the
significantly over the review period and is expected to continue
increased demand for premium and luxury products, precious
to decline. As jewellery sales are still mostly store-based, often
materials including gold and diamonds and individualised
spontaneously, the impact is noticeable and expected to
or customisable products. The knowledge of owning an
intensify over the forecast period.
exclusive or even unique piece of jewellery, often with a special message or meaning integrated in the design, created enough added value for German consumers to accept higher average
GERMANY’S JEWELLERY MARKET SIZE: RETAIL VALUE RSP
unit prices. Value sales especially of fine jewellery therefore
(€ mn)
registered another year of decent growth in 2016. 4,000
COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE
1,000
The competitive landscape registered some movement
0
within jewellery in Germany in 2015. With strong growth in
2013 2014 2015 2016 forecast
outlet numbers and even higher focus on consumer demands and new product launches, Pandora Jewelry GmbH was
3,920.70 3,871.80 3,905.90 3,931.10
able to grow by 44 % to reach an overall value share of 6 % and rise to first position. The company not only surpassed Douglas Holding’s Christ and Cartier on the way to the top,
COMPANY SHARES RANKING ACCORDING TO RETAIL
but also registered the fastest value growth compared to its
VALUE RSP
competitors in German jewellery. 1. Richemont SA, Cie Financière
PROSPECTS
2. Pandora A/S
Far more moderate development is predicted by many
3. Christ Juweliere & Uhrmacher seit 1863 GmbH
members of the jewellery trade organisation for jewellery
4. Fossil Group Inc
volume and value sales in Germany in the future. The main
5. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA
issue envisaged by many of them is a reduction of consumer
6. Gale teksto Euromonitor International logo
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12
Od 25 lat wykonujemy biżuterie ze złota i srebra ze swoich i powierzonych projektów. talefon 48618870014 tel kom 48602283206 e-mail;biuro@srebroproducent.pl www.srebroproducent.pl
ul. K. Przerwy-Tetmajera 39, 42-207 Częstochowa, Poland tel. +48 508 298 398•info@brizart.pl•www.brizart.pl
GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT
INTERGEM 2016 draws in visitors with unique expertise Report by INTERGEM PRESS Office Pendant crystallized Agate with Rhodolite / Stefanie Dingel,Veitsrodt
Idar-Oberstein
– It is the pioneering business platform for the worldwide gemstone community. “The unique expertise of the INTERGEM is based on an outstanding concentration of internationallyrenowned companies, specialists and institutions in the immediate area,” declares the fair’s Managing Director, Kai-Uwe Hille. Amongst other features, the fair, which is held this year from 30 September to 3 October, underscores this position with an informative and exciting support and trade programme. For example, there is the Living Legends exhibition, in which
Vintage Opal / Richard Hans Becker, Idar-Oberstein
internationally-renowned local artists such as Manfred Wild, Tom Munsteiner and Helmut Wolf display their masterpieces. Another presentation, entitled “Gemstone Carving”, places a spotlight on the art of the engraver. They too are masters of a craft for which Idar-Oberstein enjoys a worldwide reputation. A further example of the importance of Idar-Oberstein and the fair as its calling card is the “Forum Design”, where jewellery and gemstone designers display their visions. In addition, experts at the INTERGEM provide interested visitors with pioneering know-how and practice-oriented solutions for all questions regarding the processing, evaluation and marketing of gemstones. For example, the Deutsche Gemmologische Gesellschaft – German gemmological society is staging a workshop on the “Practical recognition of synthetic diamonds”. Because distinguishing between synthetic stones and diamonds is one of the major challenges facing the diamond sector at this time. The gemmological examination is based on several stages, involving microscopy, UV luminescence
Gemstone Carving / INTERGEM 2016
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14
“Best of cutting, quality and design” / Karl Faller, Kirschweiler
and spectroscopy. These methods, together with tabletop devices developed specifically to employ them, are presented exclusively at the INTERGEM 2016. The centre of excellence at the show also features exciting themes, including Nsaio6 – new jewellery from Idar-Oberstein. Under this motto gemstone and jewellery students and graduates at the Idar-Oberstein campus of the Trier University of Applied Sciences present selected works at the INTERGEM to mark the 30th anniversary of the course. On the stand of BBS Technik Harald-FisslerSchule Idar-Oberstein third year goldsmith apprentices present their latest pieces, under the motto “A trade in hand finds gold in every land”. Above all, however, the INTERGEM remains a fair where leading cutters and traders can offer exclusive gemstones that are scarcely available on the world market. “This density of beautiful and scarce items is certainly unique,” says Kai-Uwe Hille. “I don’t know of any other event in Europe that offers such a concentration of rare, highquality gemstones and gemstone jewellery.” One focal point this year is the range of Paraibas, a much-soughtafter tourmaline variety that is becoming increasingly hard to find – but which is included in the ranges of numerous exhibitors. The support programme at this year’s INTERGEM also focuses on the Paraiba tourmaline. Dr. Claudio Milisenda, Managing Director of the German Foundation for Gemstone Research (DSEF), will present a paper on the Paraiba tourmaline and use a spectrometer to reveal the copper that gives the stone its attractive colour. www.intergem.de
INTERGEM 2016: September 30th – October 3rd, 2016 For more information please visit: › ww.intergem.de
SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT
CU jewellery aim at meeting the demand from consumers that are increasingly concerned about the environment and that are looking for sustainable solutions – could this be a key to Swedish market?
SWEDEN’S JEWELLERY MARKET REPORT TRENDS
designs, they are likely to sell well. In addition, players in
Jewellery is undergoing an increasing influence from
Sweden are predicted to expand their branded store networks
so-called fast fashion, thus this trend is becoming increasingly
and invest in internet retailing and social media, a role that
important for fine jewellery. Moreover, the ongoing global
is becoming increasingly important. Yet fine jewellery’s
personalisation trend has raised consumers’ interest in charms
performance is highly dependent on the whole economic
and other customisable jewellery. Increasing individualism
situation and fluctuating gold price.
has also influenced manufacturers: both international and domestic companies opened more of their branded stores in the country and invested in their online shops in 2015 in
SWEDEN’S JEWELLERY MARKET SIZE: RETAIL VALUE RSP
order to be visible and recognised. Moreover, the Sweden
(€ mn)
economy has rebounded after a year of erratic performance, with positive prospects and consumer confidence on the rise.
500
These two factors were the primary factors behind the solid
250
performance by jewellery in 2016.
0
2013 2014 2015 2016 forecast
COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE
400.30 430.40 450.70 463.20
Iduna AB remained as the leading player in jewellery in Sweden in 2015 with a 19 % value share. The company mostly benefits from its retail chain stores Albrekts Guld, Hallbergs Guld and Guldfynd which are well-known and one of the oldest
COMPANY SHARES RANKING ACCORDING TO RETAIL
brands in jewellery, thus gaining the trust of local consumers.
VALUE RSP
PROSPECTS
1. Iduna AB
The rise in individualism was notable in 2015 and it is
2. Schalins Ringar AB
expected to keep personalised and customisable jewellery
3. Näsland & Jonsson Import AB
to the fore over the forecast period. Thus, if brands are able to
4. Bergendahl & Son AB
interest the customer through their meaningful and creative
5. Pandora A/S
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SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT
SARA MALM. HDK – ACADEMY OF DESIGN AND CRAFTS. Selected Graduate 2016 By HDK – ACADEMY OF DESIGN AND CRAFTS, Gothenburg, Sweden
SARA HAS GONE DEEP INTO INVESTIGATING MATERIALS, SHAPES AND COLOURS SHE FELT AN ATTRACTION TO, AND OPENED THEM UP WITH AN EYE FOR DETAILS AND POSSIBILITIES. With meticulous
and careful work with material, form and technique Sara has throughout her master exam shown a sharp sense of skill, knowledge and artistic maturity. – Klara Brynge
Jeweller Sara MALM with her BA-work.
SARA MALM, IN LINE WITH
The shape has been the framework for the whole project.
I believe in my hands. They made this work possible. When
Initially a safe zone that I would have to expose with more time
I trust them magic arises. But I need to give them tools and feed
and courage. See how far it would take me and what it wanted to
them with materials. I need to set limits and to lend them time. Also
teach me. I found out that I don’t need to have all the answers, I
not judge them to hard, but still be critical at the right moment.
don’t always need to know why. I am grateful for all the working
The hardest part is to make them all work together.
hours it has given me and excited about the next ones. If I had found the answer, I would have lost the magic and the ambition
TEAMWORK
to go further on.
To make body, time and materials collaborate at the same time. And in that same moment invite the process to take place.
SATISFACTION
When all these components are in the same room I smell a result.
The last part of the story. When the technical parts clicks
A result that is grounded on choices I’ve made from day one. It’s
together, the colors pops in the way I want and the line puts an end
not been about taking the right decisions. It’s been about let every
to the material, the jewelry tells me that it’s satisfied. It’s finished,
part of the work agree together.
it’s saturated and ready to go on to a wearer. My chapter is done,
I base my work on three materials.
I have put all my thoughts, crafts, knowledge and experience that
Wood, metal and leather. They carries different qualities that
was needed for it to be finished. It’s not up to me to judge whether
feel comfortable in my hand. I look upon the materials as flat. Based
it is a good story or not, but for sure I can tell you that it is true.
on my experience they give me different resistance and abilities
And soon its time for the next chapter.
when I hold them in my hands. They challenge me in separate ways.
Sara Malm
I pull, fold, stretch, bend and divide. Reduce and enlarge. Connect. Disconnect. Look for a context with a body or a part of a body. Listening to the shape, hear what it has to say and conveys
started her studies at HDK in 2010. Throughout
her studies at BA and MA Sara has thoroughly and deeply
it to the viewer through my hands.
investigated and developed her artistic language and interest
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Ring: Untitled, 2016 Silver, plywood. 5 x 2 x 2 cm From series: IN LINE WITH Bracelet: Untitled, 2016 Silver, plywood. 7 x 8 x 3 cm From series: IN LINE WITH
Bracelet: Untitled, 2016 Silver, plywood. 9 x 8 x 3 cm From series: IN LINE WITH
Bracelets and Rings from the series IN LINE WITH, 2016
in how form meets function and how jewellery and objects
program the students work in indivdual projects with
communicates and interacts with the body and the space we
tutoring with professor and teachers, both permanent
move in in everyday life. She plays in her work with a great
and visiting teachers and tutors from outside the school.
sense of humour and thoughtfulness. Sara has gone deep
The Jewellery Art programmes work in close connection with
in to investigating materials, shapes and colours she felt an
the ceramic and textile art programmes in an open atmosphere
attraction to, and opened them up with an eye for details and
where students cross share knowledge and experiences over
possibilities. With meticulous and careful work with material,
the fields.
form and technique Sara has throughout her master exam
The Jewellery Art programme and the MA programme in
shown a sharp sense of skill, knowledge and artistic maturity.
craft at HDK – Academy of Design and Crafts is a part of the
The projects during the BA program in jewellery art at
Faculty of Fine, Applied and Performing Arts at University of
HDK are focused on giving the students a broad knowledge
Gothenburg.
in the field as well as an indivdual identity in their artistic work to develop further, either with studies at advanced level or on their own. In the MA program the students are incouraged to deepen their investigaitons. In the master
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SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Necklace: Untitled, 2016 Leather, plywood. 20 x 18 x 3 cm From series: IN LINE WITH
Necklace: Untitled, 2016 Silver, leather, plywood. 30 x 20 x 3 cm From series: IN LINE WITH
Tiina Rajakallio, jewellery artist, was born in 1979 in Jyväskylä, Finland. Rajakallio got her BA from South Carelia Polytechnic (today Saimaa University of Applied Sciences) in 2005 and her Masters degree in 2008 from Konstfack, Stockholm, Sweden. Rajakallio’s work has been exhibited around the world. She belongs to the Finnish young generation of contemporary jewellery artists, who explore and work with different materials. Rajakallio’s studio is located in Lappeenranta at the premises of the Craft Association of South-East Finland. Tiina RAJAKALLIO Necklace from the series Unho, 2012 mixed media Photo: Tiina RAJAKALLIO
Talking with TIINA RAJAKALLIO By Antonio ALTARRIBA
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trunks and branches waiting to be rethinked and transform
pieces, there is a connection with material, weight and so
into objects. For Rajakallio, the working process is an important
on. You can hang them in a wall, but I prefer to see them
passage in the artistic activity, since she explores materials, how
weared. I perceive my series of works as a continuum, a chain
interviewed her at the studio, where she showed me pieces of her work in progress, especiallly new experimentation
How would you define your work? Perhaps I’m not the right person to define my own
work, but my works are to be weared, there are body related
they behave, what they express and what the
that links one thing to another, without the
artist can say through them, whisperings of
former step I would not be where I’m. The
an intimate conversation. Her works in wood
themes deal mostly with the western way of
and birch bark, very common materials in
life people live, lately I have been thinking
Finland, wood in house building and bark
much about people’s relationship with
was traditionally among other things used
nature. Is nature seen from an economical
for making Summer shoes for men working
projection, is it romanticized or are we fully
in the fields, contribute in a way to develop
lost?
contemporary jewellery. The artist creates a
4)
metamorphosis parting from the skin of the tree, the bark, to a second skin the final object. Rajakallio transforms wood into a wearable piece of jewellery, an ornament with a strong an intimate
From the series White Moments, 2015 leather, different types of wood, cotton thread Photo: Tiina RAJAKALLIO
story. The American writer Denis Johnson
How did you become interested in bark / wood ?
A few years ago I participated in a 3D
course organized by Saimaa university of Applioed Scinces and I got fascinated by wood.
(Munchen, 1949), wrote that a soldier
Birch bark is a traditional material, I
should never think, therefore for the soldier
think must learn more about it. Now my
the prohibition of thinking is a relief. This is
studio is full of wood, of bark and also I
not the case of Rajakallio, whose work gives
started exploring marquetry. It seems a
us tools to awaken our thirst for thinking,
carpenters workshop! In the following
our awareness for being human. It is clear
series “Unho” which in Finnish language
that an artist is not a soldier.
means oblivion, the main material I use
1)
is wood, either worked by hand or with Why did you wanted to be a
machine tools. In “Unho” I reflect on
jellewery artist?
For me it was normal, because when I
was young I used to draw and paint a lot. At the age of sixteen I made my own jewells,
forgetfulness as a part for remembering Brooch from the series White Moments, 2014 wood, leather, cotton thread, steel Photo: Mika AHONEN
then I went to a craft school and I learn to
and I feel consoled about the thought, that also trees has a way to remember what they left behind, their annual rings, sometimes thick or thin.
work with several materials, but especially I
body proportions seemed to me rather good to work with,
5)
although sometimes I dreamed about larger objects.
time experimenting with materials and ideas. Time will show
2)
the traces of the past!
liked jewellery work. My first contact with jewellery art was at the South Carelia Polytechnic during my studies. Also human
What is the direction in which your work is going?
This year I have a working grant, so I can dedicate all my
Is the art making process or the final work what
6)
interests you?
Both, I’m very fond of writing down my thoughts and ideas
before I start working, but I don’t draw so much anymore,
Do you discuss your work with other colleagues?
It would be nice to discuss one’s works with colleagues,
quite often I start sketching straight on the material. Many
but usually nobody has time for it. The best feed back I get is
times things may change in the studio, but it is life, in other
from exhibition openings and seminars, there people come
words, it is a lively process.
ready to talk and discuss.
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FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT
with veneer. In the studio there is a lot of wood and small tree
3)
I
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
TO KARL FABERGÉ’S ANNIVERSARY The Kaliningrad Regional Amber Museum until September 4 runs an exhibition of works of the Third All-Russian competition of author’s jewelry and stonecutting art.
Worker of Culture of the Russian Federation. “This year the event is dedicated to the 170th anniversary from the birth of Carl Fabergé. Such decision of organizers of a competition – is a tribute to the creative heritage of masters of firm Fabergé, desire to contribute to the glorification of the traditions of domestic art”. Nominations of a competition of 2016: “Artistic Heritage”, “Metaphor”, “Use of National Ornament”, “My Russia”, “The Best Work from Amber”. The main award of the competition – the Grand Prix. Artists‘ skills were evaluated by professional jury, consisting of leading art critics, experts in the field of jewelry and stone-cutting art of Russia. The Moscow jeweler Gennady Lentsov has been elected as the chairman of jury. “Such competitions are undoubtedly important, since they motivate young authors to improve their skills”, considers Galina Gabriel, a member of the jury, Head of the Department of Art History of of St. Petersburg State University of Culture and Arts, Ph. D. in Art history, Associate Professor. “To organize a biennale of jeweler and stone-cutting art in Kaliningrad – is a remarkable idea. Here many interesting works, performed with great skills, with use of new technologies are presented.
By Irina KLIMOVICH Photos – Igor SOSEDKO
The
Perhaps, the guys lack relaxedness of mindset, prospection yet, but there is an obvious desire to study, professionally grow”. Irina Toropova, Deputy Amber Museum Director, believes
exposition presents about 500 works by 150
that it is important for artists of the Kaliningrad region to get
artists from 13 cities – Yekaterinburg, Kazan,
acquainted with the work of colleagues from other regions
Kaliningrad, Kostroma, Makhachkala, Nizhny Tagil, Rostov-
of Russia.
on-Don, Rybinsk, St. Petersburg, Togliatti, Tula, Ufa, Yaroslavl.
“It is not only an exchange of traditions, artistic experience,
The project also included a seminar with the participation
but also an opportunity to see other approach to materials,
of experts in the field of jewelry and lapidary arts, education
technicians, technologies”, she says. “It is a unique situation
program for students of the Kaliningrad Art and Industrial
which influences both the artist, and the viewer, forming
College and other educational institutions of the Kaliningrad
personal features of perception of the world”.
region, young artists, jewelers and stone-cutters. The biennale of author’s jeweler art is held in Kaliningrad
“SUCH COMPETITIONS
since 2012. As interest in stone-cutting skill increases in
are undoubtedly important,
modern world art and its influence on development of jewelry
SINCE THEY MOTIVATE YOUNG AUTHORS TO IMPROVE THEIR SKILLS”, considers
enhances, the organizing committee has made the decision to add the formulation “and stone-cutting art” to the name of competition.
Galina Gabriel, a member of the jury, Head of the Department of Art History of of St.
“Preservation of cultural ties with other regions of our country is very important for the Kaliningrad region which is behind two borders from Big Russia”, considers Tatyana Suvorova, Director of the Museum of Amber, Art Critic, Honored
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RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Grand Prix. “For highly artistic solution of the subject “My Russia” and technical perfection of execution”: Volkov Nikita Andreevich, Kostroma – for earrings “Spinning Wheel”, 2015 (brass, phianites; molding, mount, gilding)
Winner in the category “My Russia”: Kurtayev Alibeg Akhmedovich, Makhachkala – for Easter egg “Pearl”, 2016 (silver of 925 fineness; sawing, engraving, oxidation, gilding)
Winner in the category “Artistic Heritage”: Vaganova Anastasia Aleksandrovna, Kostroma – for earrings “Heavenly Portal”, 2015 (brass, nickel silver, copper, phianites, molding, filigree, gilding)
Winner in the category “The Best Work from Amber”: Yuritsyn Alexander Petrovich, Likhanov Vladimir Pavlovich, Kaliningrad – for “Landscape No. 21”, 2016 (amber, wood, carving)
Winner in the category “Use of National Ornament”: Bozhenkova Elizaveta Alexandrovna, Kostroma – for earrings “Boyar,” 2015 (brass, jewelry inserts, molding, cold enamel, gilding)
Winner in the category “Metaphor”: Egorova Svetlana Yurevna, Yuritsyn Alexander Petrovich, Likhanov Vladimir Pavlovich, Kaliningrad – for composition “Sky Ship”, 2015 (amber, brass, mahogany, stone carving, intaglio, ornamental casting, wood carving)
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RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
“PRUSSKY MIOD”: Contemporary Ethnics We are living in the region that has changed many landlords. The only remaining thing has not changed – the solar stone – Prussian honey and Baltic soul. It came to be a bridge among nations, cultures, generations, and an inexhaustible source of creative inspiration.
as well initiated by the artist and stylist Aleksandr Yuritsyn and my daughter, goldsmith-jeweller Talya Egorova. At first, our work made its way into a range of unique ethnic pieces of jewellery. After several years, “Prussky Miod” gathered more than 20 different specialists, and now we are no longer a pilot project, like at the beginning of our way, but rather a true artistic association – with its workshops, sales network, educational base, and an exhibition fund. For you, is it creative work or business? We know the concept “creative industry”, which unites the both things. For example, you’ve got is an interesting idea, you embody it with the maximum use of your creative potential. This final product, with all conceptual importance, is in demand in the market and the sale of it brings quite tangible material benefits. Business for the sake of business is not for me. I am a certified jeweller, having acquired a classical education in the Russian jewellery school and I can earn money within my specialty, yet, I prefer doing so by keeping to a certain philosophy and principles. Let’s talk more about ideas and principles. Somebody would call the concept of our art anyone as “stylish ethnics.” I would call it a “history game.” Proceeding from the heritage of northern Europe, which comprises the culture of northwest Russia, the Baltic States, Slavic and Scandinavian motifs, we try to read it from the modern
The artist-jeweller and designer Lana EGOROVA
perspective. We try to make every article tell some story,
“P
which would awaken an echo of ancient folklore and a fairy russky Miod (“Prussian Honey”)” is the artistic association
tale character made up by the author of “Prussky Miod.” This
of Kaliningrad artists, whose key message from their
kind of myth-making is our inspiration.
area of work became love for native land – the amber land, and
Talking about our principles, “Prussky Miod” adheres to
its main symbol – the solar stone. This may be why “Prussky
some fixed rules. First, natural materials only. Leather, linen,
Miod” is perceived as a brand of Kaliningrad Region in many
cotton, wool, metal (mainly, brass), ceramics, glass, paints,
parts of Russia and abroad, where the association has already
and, of course, only natural amber. Yes, we are green! The
arranged its expositions.
second rule: handiwork. The warmth of an artist’s hands is what
Lana Egorova, head of the association “Prussky Miod”,
breathes life into the article. We stand up for traditional crafts.
the artist-jeweller, designer, member of the Creative Union
A product undergoes a full cycle here, on-site, from sketch
of Artists of Russia, co-founder of the Kaliningrad Amber
to sale. All products are works of authorship, each item is
Craftsmen’s Guild”:
unique, hand-made, and customised. Our artists have invented
Lana, where did “Prussky Miod” begin?
a unique style of “Prussky Miod”, which is recognisable today
“Prussky Miod” was founded in 2010, whereby few people,
not only in Kaliningrad, but also in “mainland” Russia, and
keen on similar ideas, met and decided to join together to
now, after running several major shows in Europe – beyond
harness the creative energies. Apart from me, the project was
Russia, too. Moreover, the style is in demand: at this moment,
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RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
for example, we have got an offer from the Government of
region. We are the only ones who hold similar workshops in
Kaliningrad Region to paint several facades in the centre of
Kaliningrad Region, so, they are very popular among tourists. I cannot but ask the traditional question about your
the city in the spirit of “Prussky Miod.” We have become the
plans.
unofficial brand in the region! Our principles are aligned with missions, which, as we
We are planning to expand production, which largely
believe, fulfil social functions. This is the preservation of
depends on the skills and, oddly enough, on the ability to
traditions and culture, the creation of new traditions in art,
buy the stone at a reasonable price. Up to date, price of raw
and the formation of our region’s cultural identity. Further,
amber grew by 500–600 %, and it has become a big problem
it is the creation of a harmonious and safe environment for
for Kaliningrad artists working with amber.
people, preservation of crafts and personal involvement of an
With regard to training – the picture is more positive here.
artist in the production, popularization of amber as a symbol
Participation in various educational projects, exhibitions, the
of our land, as well as increasing public awareness, especially
mentioned Artists’ Festival – all of this is a chance not only to
among children and youth. This concerns corporate social
“be seen”, but also to see enthusiastic people who could join
responsibility, which is so much talk now.
us to know the master’ secrets of craft and to become artists of
What is amber for you?
“Prussky Miod.” Here, like elsewhere, “It’s all about the people.”
Amber is the main character in all articles of “Prussky
The association also plans to continue and expand
Miod,” you can find it almost everywhere, even in paintings
exhibition activities. In particular, we would like to present
and notebooks. For us, it is more than just a basic raw material.
all the focus areas of the association at the “Amber Trip” Show
It is a symbol of our land, the cornerstone of continuity of
in Vilnius. Lithuanian visitors of the show are familiar with a
cultures and generations. We find inspiration in amber legends
number of our articles, and we will be happy to introduce you
of different nations and delight in the variety of colours and
to all areas of the activities of “Prussky Miod.”
uniqueness of each sample. When processing the stone, our
Over the past six years, you have come a long way.
artists try to preserve and highlight its natural individuality.
Right, and we have some achievements. We are constantly
What does “Prussky Miod” produce else, apart from
engaged in exhibition activities, we have participated in many
jewellery?
Russian and international festivals, fairs, and contests, where
To date, the association’s production activities comprise
we became prize-winners and awardees. We have held several
such areas as jewellery, souvenirs, leather articles, textiles,
association exhibition, and that consequently allowed us to
knitwear, ceramics, glass, graphics, linen clothing, authors’
found our own exhibition fund and, thus, to enter the world
toys. In addition to production, we are also actively developing
exhibition space. In 2014, we won the regional stage of the
awareness-raising activities.
All-Russian contest “Together we are Russia.” In autumn of
The Artists’ Festival, which we hold every year at the
the same year, we represented Kaliningrad Region at the
Insterburg castle in Chernyakhovsk, has become a good
International Cultural Heritage Show in the Louvre, Paris. In
tradition. In summer, during that week, children and adults may
2015, we were again invited to France, this time – to the world’s
attend workshops and try hand in any traditional crafts – from
largest show “Mineral and Stone,” which is held every year
pottery to jewellery. This year, we decided to make the festival
in Alsace. I would like to thank for the opportunity to visit
more thematic, professional, allowing to dive deeper into one
the high-status show the Ministry of Culture of Kaliningrad
of specialties. First and foremost, I am going to supervise an
Region and, of course, our good partners – the Kaliningrad
open-air jewellery workshop, the result of which will be an
Amber Museum.
exhibition of the Festival participants’ works.
Nonetheless, in my opinion, an even more important fact
Last year, we opened our own salon in the city centre,
is that we are associated with Kaliningrad Region in many parts
exactly named “Prussky Miod.” The salon is unusual: it is
of Russia and abroad. We have often heard such statements,
decorated in our unique style; apart form the selling exhibition,
“Kaliningrad? Not Germany, but not yet Russia. There is little to
it includes a small exposition, a mini-museum, an interactive
show.” We do have something worth showing, our region has
area where visitors can play the role of an amber jeweller,
ancient and rich heritage. We also have a modern and authentic
process a piece of amber using the ancient machine, and
cultural image, which is closely intertwined and, sometimes,
assemble an article of jewellery in ethnic style. We arrange
becomes a link between the Russian and European cultures.
such workshops for small groups of tourists right into the salon or, by special orders, take road-shows to anywhere in the
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28
Tomasz Skubaczewski / 93–204 ŁODŹ, POLAND / Tel. (+48) 603881897 / E-mail: tomski@autograf.pl
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
THE FIRST ECONOMIC FORUM OF AMBER INDUSTRY One of the largest industry discussion platforms was created in Russia The epoch of great changes has come to amber industry. It is time when many things are going to be changed or even developed anew. During the last years a lot of experiments related to pricing, selling of raw materials, developing of the Russian school of processing of the sun stone, seeking for new domains of application of amber and etc., have been implemented. Today the amber market is in transitional state and many people wait what will happen next.
First Economic Forum of Amber Industry, which will be held on 6–8 of October in Svetlogorsk, Kaliningrad region, has been decided to become such platform. The First Economic Forum of Amber Industry of the Russian Federation will become one of the largest industrial discussion platforms. Among main topics – the latest trends in mining and processing of amber, new ways of its application and new markets. Mikhail ZATSEPIN, Director General of joint-stock company “Kaliningrad Amber Combine”: “Today amber industry is one of the ‘exclusive’ industry branches in Russia as
Kaliningrad Amber Combine realises its responsibility
well as an important element in economies of other countries,
for the current situation in the industry. Being a unique
in particular in the Baltic states. The main idea of the Forum is to
enterprise in global terms, it understands that the fate of
show the many-sidedness of industry which at the same time forms
both individual processing companies and the world amber
several levels for development including historical and cultural
community as a whole depends on business actions and
heritage, industrial potential, development of the enterprise and
decisions of its management.
its place in the modern economy of Russia and other countries.
Having understood that issues and current challenges
The Global aim assigned by the Amber Combine to the Forum
can be solved only by joint efforts, Kaliningrad Amber
is to become a platform for positioning of an amber brand and
Combine decided to develop an open platform for
cultural message aimed at changing the general public perception
discussion of all up-to-date issues and searching for
of the industry into civilised and competitive industry capable to
new ways of industry development in general aimed at
compete with other branches of economy”.
representatives of business structures and governmental
Forum events have been developed basing on the global
authorities of federal and regional levels as well as amber
standards of holding high level forums. The organiser of the
industry stakeholders from Russia and partner countries. The
event is joint-stock company “Kaliningrad Amber Combine”,
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30
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT the support is provided by the Government of Kaliningrad
programme. Thematic blocks will be developed in accordance
region and state corporation “Rostekh�.
with the most significant development directions of the
The Forum will include three essential components:
industry. Among them are such themes as technological
a business programme, an exhibition and a cultural
development of mining and processing of raw materials,
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RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
EXHIBITION An exhibition will serve a platform for the effective interaction between state, business and end-users. An exposition is aimed to familiarise the participants with Russian and foreign technologies and goods of amber industry. The three-day exhibition lasting from 6 to 8 October 2016 will provide visitors with the opportunity to learn about new trends and share experience. The exhibition will be open for all interested persons. All directions of amber industry activities have been considered in exposition themes: manufacturers of equipment for industrial processes; manufacturers of amber goods; cultural-historical theme; and development of tourism.
CULTURAL PROGRAMME Cultural events planned before and during the Forum are aimed at attracting the general public – people who are interested in amber goods, arts, history, and jewellery. A new approach to the sun stone will be presented to participants of the cultural programme. Events of the cultural programme will allow learning about amber history and interesting facts, finding out more about its significance and application in various domains in Russia and abroad. Several events have been planned as a part of the entrance to new markets, taking a leading position in the
cultural programme: photography exhibition in Moscow
world in manufacturing amber goods, personnel development,
and Svetlogorsk, art installations during the Forum, concerts,
development of tourism and cultural aspects, global
excursions, a special programme for the Forum participants,
positioning of amber as a national brand and etc.
closed events for the Forum participants and etc.
UNITING THE PARTICIPANTS OF AMBER MARKET
BUSINESS PROGRAMME OF THE AMBER FORUM A two-day business programme of the Forum combines such formats as plenary sessions, thematic round tables
Today all interested market participants need dialog,
and expert sessions dedicated to up-to-date issues and
constant contact and sharing opinions. Besides, it is necessary
development trends of amber industry and includes workshops
to attract new players, in particular in the domain of promoting
and master classes, open lectures on the essential topic of the
amber in internal and external markets, as well as forming a
Forum – “The Development of Amber Industry: Yesterday,
new perception of it.
Today and Tomorrow”. The business programme is focused
Kaliningrad Amber Combine invites all interested
on several key issues: development of amber industry,
persons to take part in the First Economic Forum of Amber
technologies and new markets, historical and cultural heritage
Industry and find optimal solutions for the development
of amber brand, amber industry in the context of geo-cultural
of amber industry together. Venue and date of the forum and exhibition: 6 – 8
and economic development, education and development of
October 2016, Variety Theatre “Yantar Hall”, the city of
human capital. As a part of the Forum events an auction of the largest
Svetlogorsk, Kaliningrad region.
stones with the weight exceeding 1 kilogram that have never been sold by the Amber Combine before is planned.
Detailed information about the Amber Forum as well as participation in the event is available at the website: › amberforum.ru
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THE FIRST ECONOMIC FORUM OF THE AMBER INDUSTRY IN THE RUSSIAN FEDERATION October 6th – 8th, 2016
Exhibition Center «Yantar’ Hall» Svetlogorsk, Kaliningrad region
Organizers: JSC «Kaliningrad Amber Combine»
www.amberforum.ru +7 499 706 80 78 info@amberforum.ru
RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Coloured gemstones in Gemworld Munich
RUSSIA‘S JEWELLERY MARKET REPORT TRENDS
company saw the biggest increase in value sales in 2015, mostly
Difficult economic conditions in Russia continued to have
thanks to its offer of silver items.
an impact on the development of jewellery in 2016. Due to lowering disposable incomes some consumers switched from
PROSPECTS
gold to silver in fine jewellery in 2016. According to the experts,
Jewellery in Russia is expected to post value growth of
demand for silver doubled in 2015 and this tendency remained
2 % at constant 2016 prices over the forecast period. Due to the
in 2016. This is explained by the fact that unit prices of silver
consumers’ lowering disposable incomes, the trading-down
remained the same as they were in the pre-crisis time, but unit
trend to cheaper options is expected to erode the growth
prices of gold products grew significantly. Some silver jewellery
in demand during the forecast period. However, sales are
looks like white gold jewellery that is considered swanky. Also,
expected to recover in line with the overall restoration of the
after the crisis started consumers began to choose gold items
economic situation from 2018, which will boost demand for
that look massive but have hollow constructions or cushioning
more expensive types of jewellery.
layers with diamond grit. Such jewellery is distinguished by lower prices and less weight. This was common for consumers from the middle and lower classes. The luxury segment of
RUSSIA’S JEWELLERY MARKET SIZE: RETAIL VALUE RSP (€ mn)
jewellery did not suffer that much from the economic crisis and devaluation of the national currency. High-net-worth
5,000
individuals did not notice the deterioration of their welfare
2,500
in 2016 and continued their spending on luxury products
0
including exclusive jewellery. Such consumers considered
2013 2014 2015 2016 forecast
fine jewellery as an investment tool to maintain their wealth under the more challenging conditions of the economic
4,867.80 4,949.00 4,307.60 4,047.70
downturn.
COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE
COMPANY SHARES RANKING ACCORDING TO RETAIL
Domestic company Sokolov OOO remained the top player
VALUE RSP
within jewellery in Russia in 2015, with a retail value share of 7 %. The company ambitiously aims to cater to different
1. KYUZ Diamant OOO
consumer segments through its continuously enhanced
2. Yuvelirny Zavod Akvamarin OOO
product portfolio. The products offered by Sokolov OOO
3. Delta KUZ OOO
feature up-to-date design and utilisation of precious metals
4. Yuvelirny Zavod Platina OOO
and stones, which are sought by Russian consumers. The
5. ADAMAS Stolichnyi Yuvelirnyi Zavod
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A small amber processing company with 20 years of experience in a variety of amber jewellery production.
2016
Tove KNUTS – Sweeden, Grand Prix of the Minister of Culture and National Heritage + 1 kg of silver founded by the Minister of Culture and National Heritage
By Justyna STASIEWICZ
Winners of CITY competition
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
F E ST I VA L S I L V E R IN LEGNICA –
The culmination of the 37th edition of the Festival SILVER in Legnica took place on 20–22 May. Not only is this festival a contemporary jewelery competition – it is also a global overview of what contemporary artists create and what kind of topics, techniques and materials are familiar to them. At this year’s event 25 exhibition openings took place. We could see, among others, interesting individual exhibitions, such as “Movement” by Jeemin Jamie Chung or “Where does a parallel world exist?” by Mari Ishikawa. Rich group exhibitions included the annual cycle of Silver Schools, the exhibition Signs of Presence” by employees of the Academy of Fine Arts in Lodz, “Forgotten dogs and unseen flowers” by Tabea Reulecke and Daniel Malev, the work of the Jewellery Concept Art. association, and these are only a small part of the whole that was presented.
Alejandra SOLAR – Mexico/Spain, 1st Award of the Marshal of Lower Silesia Province – 5.000 PLN +1 kg of silver founded by the Minister of Culture and National Heritage
Sham PATWARDHAN-JOSHI – India/Germany, 2nd Award of the Mayor of the Legnica City – 3.000 PLN + 1 kg of silver founded by the Gallery of Art in Legnica
CITY AND SILVER The theme of the festival was CITY. The artists creating contemporary jewelry had a chance to think about what kind of phenomena or problems are associated with urban space and how does a human fit into all this, as a social unit. We had the opportunity to see the result of these considerations at two post-competition exhibitions: main, which took place in the Gallery of Art in Legnica, is a collection of jewelry selected by a prestigious jury and the second, held in Holownia (the Patricia DOMINGUES – Portugal, 3rd Award of the Gallery of Art in Legnica– solo exhibition with catalogue worth 4500 PLN
lobby of the old town hall), which brings together works that were not qualified for the competition.
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38
Protect me protectively – representing some kind of subsections to the main theme of the exhibition, which was: Corset. Jewelry by Sergiusz Kuchczyński was highlighted by the Dominika Sadowska’s photos, which were exposed on the walls, between the objects. Exhibition by Sergiusz Kuchczyński, however, was not the only one that was accentuated by the images of another artist: B (e) e black, is the title of one of the debuts taking place
I WOULD LIKE TO TRY ON YOUR BODY
this year, during the Festival Silver. The author of the works
Sergiusz Kuchczyński’s exhibition which is the result of his
exhibited on the mentioned exhibition was me (Justyna
doctoral thesis. The exhibition consisted of three parts with
Stasiewicz) and the whole was accompanied by photographs
separate titles: I’d like to try on your body, and Tie Me Up! and
taken by my brother (Rafał Stasiewicz).
Au + performance Photo by Rafał STASIEWICZ
These artists had prepared an interesting performance under the title of 1064 °C, which took place during the first day of this year’s culmination of the festival. The last exhibition, which I would like to describe a bit more, will be “In the shadow” by Wojtek Rygało. The artist hid from the audience until the last minute the work that he made, and that the guests of the festival could show the world one
PERFORMANCE MULTIPLIED
after the other, only during the grand opening.
This year, once again Au + group came to Legnica, which is
Ending a report from the festival, I would like to present
next to Lis2 one of the most active groups of Polish art jewelery
works that were awarded in the flagship competition of this
artists/creators. It is entirely male group, which includes Marcin
year’s SILVER. As every year, there was an official prize-giving
Bogusław, Bartosz Maria Chmielewski, Filip Jackowski and
ceremony, during which a short performance by Mieczyslaw
Michael Wysocki.
Gryza took place. The artist, using an electric hammer, damaged part of the wall of the historic town hall, and wrapped the chipped parts in a piece of cloth and took with him. The
Wojtek RYGAŁO “In the shadow” Photo by Rafał STASIEWICZ
result of the whole event was a wave of discussion on the one hand associated with the protection of monuments (and it is worth mentioning that the work of Mieczyslaw Gryza, which he prepared for the competition, was all about that) and on the second with what is allowed and what is not allowed to do for an artist.
› www.jewelrydesign.pl
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39
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Sergiusz KUCHCZYŃSKI exhibition Corset Photo by Rafał STASIEWICZ
By Ewa PALIŃSKA The amber fair and amber fashion show have already been held, amber ambassadors have been chosen and, exactly 10 years ago, the Amber Museum was opened and the World Amber Council was established in Gdansk. Now Gdansk aims to persuade the Polish people to celebrate 44th wedding anniversaries as „amber“.
Since
there are amber deposits around Gdansk, Gdansk and the Tricity have the largest group of craftsmen and artists in
Poland who engage in the processing of this precious resin. We have something to be proud of, since amber is a treasure that helps us strengthen our city‘s position as well as maintain its power throughout the centuries – says Wiesław Bielawski, the Deputy Mayor of Gdansk responsible for spatial policy – This is the exact place where convoys would come from Southern Europe or the North Sea basin to purchase raw materials in order to make various items, such as beautiful jewellery. We strive to continue this tradition. Thus, the city has long been supporting amber enthusiasts by providing various encouragement, for example, by spreading information about amber, supporting trade fairs, assigning amber ambassadors and giving amber gifts to the city‘s visitors. From this day on, we suggest celebrating the World Amber Day annually on the 28th of June – says prof. Ryszard Szadziewski, Chairman of the World Amber Council. – On this day, 10 years ago, the World Amber Council was established. We will contact amber enthusiasts and jewellers around the world to suggest organizing amber festivals, seminars and lectures about amber and its beauty on the 28th of June, thus contributing to the promotion of amber. One of the promotional actions is selection of amber to be the talisman for 44th wedding anniversaries. This means that, in terms of appeal, amber is considered to be between ruby (40th wedding anniversary) and sapphire (45th wedding anniversary). Can couples that are celebrating their „amber wedding anniversaries“ expect to receive some kind of gifts from the city? This idea is very interesting and worth considering. There is no doubt that we will carefully examine this idea- says Wiesław Bielawski.
Amber Look, March 2016 Collection: FACES OF LOVE jewellery: Apart fashion: Teresa Rosati
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40
Article was first published in:http://www.trojmiasto.pl/wiadomosci/Bursztynowe-gody-po-44-latach-malzenstwa-n103087.html
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
44
AMBER WEDDING anniversary after years of marriage?
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
POLAND CUT OFF ITS OWN AMBER? By Anna SADO
THE NEW POLISH GOVERNMENT IS LOOKING FOR BUDGET REVENUES IN ORDER TO FINANCE THE EXPENSIVE PROMISES FROM THEIR ELECTION CAMPAIGN. IT LOOKS LIKE THEY MAY BE FINANCED BY REVENUES FROM COMPANIES MINING AMBER – AS THE GOVERNMENT IS PLANNING TO MAKE PROFIT AS A RESULT OF CHANGING THE RULES OF AMBER MINING.
Amber
jewellers have found out about the government’s plans from the media. The
legislator has excluded the opinion of a few thousand business entities dealing with amber processing in Poland from the formal process of consulting the bill assumptions. The Ministry of Environment is planning to introduce some rather far-fetched and unfavourable for the amber jewellers changes concerning the rules of amber mining in Poland. The changes will result from adjusting the Geological and Mining Law to the European Union requirements.
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44
“A large part of business people and employees may not
Amber becomes mining property. It means that the
survive this experiment and end up unemployed. Needless
Treasury will be the owner of the raw material (rather than the
to say that budget revenues will not increase due to lost
owner of the land on which deposits have been discovered as
taxes” – says a letter sent in May from the initiative of the S&A
it has been the case until not). Consequently, an investor will be
public company, the largest producer of jewellery with amber
obliged to sign a mining usufruct contract with the Treasury,
in Poland. The letter was signed together with the Amber
outlining payment form the usufruct and the way of payment.
Chamber and International Fair Trade Centre. This initiative
An 80-fold increase of service charge. Currently,
has inspired the President of the Gdańsk International Fair to
the companies dealing with amber mining pay 10,26 PLN, as
write a similar letter to the ministers of Environment, Energy
set out in the licence issued by the voivodship Marshall. After
and Maritime Economy and Inland Shipping. Copies of the
the statute is implemented the payment will be 800 PLN for a
letters will be sent to the people who can have influence on
kilogram of mined amber, regardless of its quality.
the final content of the statute – such as MP’s and senators.
Higher fines for illegal amber mining. The legislator
Small scale miners who only mine small amounts of amber
is planning to increase the fines for seeking and recognition
are also really worried, as well as large investors who will incur
of amber deposits without the required licence by 10 times,
significantly higher costs of obtaining raw material. If they
that is to 400,000 PLN for each square kilometre of the land
find only fine raw material of market value between 80 and
being subject to the activity, as well as change of legal category
100 PLN per kilogram (this sort constitutes about 80% of the
of the act to a crime punishable with a fine, restriction of
mined raw material) the enterprise will be a flop. However, to
personal liberty or imprisonment up to one year (currently
the legislator it does not matter...
it is an offence).
Most likely, the imagination of the decision makers has
The official reason for the changes listed above is the
been influenced by the high prices of amber raw material as
intention to supress illegal mining. The size of illegal mining
well as the documentation of the National Institute of Geology
remains unknown, whereas legal mining has been estimated
which indicate that there are rich deposits of amber in Poland –
to be 1024 kilograms in 2015, plus around 5–6 tons of raw
a total of 1.1 thousand tons, mainly in Lubelskie and Pomorskie
material gathered on the beach every year. Meanwhile, the
voivodships. Those are only the documented deposits – if
demand of the Polish amber industry alone is about 150 tons
we add the undocumented ones, Poland rises to the range
of raw material, jewellery quality. For years, there have been
of amber tycoon in terms of deposits. The problem is that
opinions within the industry, saying that there is a need to start
that optimistic data exists only in documentation – in reality
mining local deposits so as not to be dependent on Russia or
no investor has decided to launch industrial amber mining in
Ukraine, and to ensure access to good quality raw material.
Poland – despite great plans and bold declarations.
The initiatives that came about have always encountered
It is difficult to predict what the consequences of the
problems with a lack of investors: ready to finance geological
amendment of the Geological and Mining Law will be if the
research (as the existing research, commissioned by the state,
government’s proposals are accepted. Perhaps it will not
is usually not through enough) and mining. Paradoxically, it
influence the industry much (currently the local output fulfils
was generally hoped that there would be a change to the
only a small part of the demand) as it fulfils the raw material
Geological and Mining Law in such a way that amber would
needs by importing raw material from Russia and Ukraine. It
become state property – it was expected that the state would
will surely eliminate the profession of amber miner altogether.
be the wanted investor. There is a change to the law, though
It is a really rare profession already, and soon it will become
no chance for financial support.
completely unprofitable. Probably nothing will change in the
To make the matters worse, the plans of the Ministry of
field of fighting with illegal mining: there is a need for a better
Environment have caused serious concerns about the future
detection rate of the offence, not merely higher fines. Most of
of the amber industry in Poland. The producers of jewellery
all, it is a pity that nothing will change in the field of support
adorned with amber are worried about additional problems
for the amber industry which on the hand is a beneficiary of
with mining and access to the raw material in Poland, as well
the EU support programmes, but on the other loses its chance
as further cost increase, resulting from the need to increase
for development in a rather vicious way. The tax revenue from
amber import. This in turn will, in their opinion, contribute to
well prospering amber producers successfully selling their
deterioration of international competitiveness of the entire
products all over the world were a stronger influx of money
industry and decrease of its overall profitability.
for the Treasury...
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POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
THE MOST IMPORTANT CHANGES ARE:
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
JUBINALE 2016 On
Press release by JUBINALE PRESS Office
2–4.06.2016, thanks to the 9 th edition of
advantage of a chance to talk to the representatives of the
International Jewellery and Watches Trade
most important trade organizations and associations, i.e. The
Fair JUBINALE 2016, the fairgrounds of EXPO Krakow have
International Amber Association, The Association of
once again become the main meeting point of jewellery and
Jewellery Experts and Polish Craft Association. For the
watches trade in Central Europe. The exhibition was attended
third year, JUBINALE also hosted the pavilion of Jewellery
by a record number of exhibitors so far – 218 companies
and Watchmaking Association of Portugal.
from 15 countries (Poland, Austria, Belgium, Czech Republic,
At the end of the first day, the Exhibitors met in the
Spain, India, Lithuania, Germany, Portugal, Russia, Romania,
relaxed atmosphere at the Exhibitor Evening. Traditionally,
Ukraine, Hungary, England and Italy). Also an increase in the
three companies were awarded the Gem of JUBINALE. The
number of visitors, especially from Slovakia, Ukraine and
companies who received the award this year: Kogata, Art
Lithuania was recorded.
Styl and By Dziubeka. Thank you once again for exceptional
For past 9 years JUBINALE has successfully strengthened
cooperation. We wish you all of the success in future.
its position, consequently being saved on the schedule of a
The first two days of the fair were dedicated exclusively to
growing group of people in the jewellery and watchmaking
professionals, while the last day was open also to the public
industry. Since the transfer of JUBINALE to the new exhibition
from Krakow. The visitors not related to jewellery industry had
grounds of EXPO Krakow, its dynamic development is
a unique opportunity to get to know the upcoming trends
undeniably visible – constantly growing number of
in the world of jewellery and watches and to buy selected
exhibitors, regular participation of leading Polish
pieces, for example, in Designer Trends area.
companies and steadily growing number of exhibitors
The meetings during the exhibition were filled with
and visitors from abroad are just some elements that prove
valuable discussions and business negotiations. It has been
how important JUBINALE is for the jewellery industry.
known for long that direct contact is the most effective form
JUBINALE is addressed mainly to strictly targeted
of sales, of which the lively conversations at the stands were
audience – owners of jewellry stores and
the obvious confirmation. And while some sectors of the
galleries, producers and distributors, sales
industry feel some stagnacy, we believe that JUBINALE will
representatives and other professionals
do the job and will bring business benefits for a long time Next, 10th edition of JUBINALE will be held on 8–10
associated with the industry. Carefully
of June 2017.
selected offers of exhibitors provided the buyers with a wide range of
We also invite you to participate in the upcoming sales
products from almost all sectors of
meeting JUBINALE Christmas, 8–9.11.2016, where you
the industry. At the stands, next to
will meet many exhibitors of JUBINALE. The main aim of
latest jewellery and watches
organizing this meeting is to create an opportunity for visitors
collections, visitors were offered
to stock up before important, busy Christmas season.
the packaging and boxes,
If you would like regularly see the important information
tools, machines, services
about JUBINALE, like us on Facebook, were we regularly
and technology solutions.
publish news about the fair, the profiles of artists and offer
Many of those guests took
of exhibitors.
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46
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
Appealing PRODUCTS AND DESIGNS Press release by AMBERMART Press Office The 17th AMBERMART International Amber Fair will be held on August 25–27 in Gdańsk, Poland. AMBERMART opens the autumn exhibition season and enables trade visitors to replenish their stock after the summer. AMBERMART’S product range includes silver and gold jewellery with amber, amber jewellery and objets d’art, coloured gemstones, souvenirs and functional art. Next to a wide range of jewellery, you can find amber figurines, coffers, devotional items, Tiffany-style lamps and other decor with amber in the leading role. During last year’s edition of AMBERMART, appealing products and designs and an extensive agenda of accompanying events attracted over 3500 visitors from 36 countries. An especially strong representation came from European countries, mainly Germany, the UK and Denmark along with buyers from Russia and China. AMBERMART 2016 expects the attendance of 200 Polish and international exhibitors. The event is accompanied by exhibitions, workshops and the Most Beautiful Amber Jewellery Competition. AMBERMART concludes on Saturday night, with the most picturesque street of the Gdańsk Old Town hosting the Mariacka Street Festival. Art previews, recitals and social get-togethers will be continued until late at night, this time under motto “In Mariacka’s Seventh Heaven”. The event’s programme is developed in collaboration with gallery owners, artists, restaurateurs, partnering cultural institutions, creative organisations, the street’s residents and International Amber Association. The evening will be highlighted with a fashion and jewellery show by Magda Arłukiewicz and Aleksander Gliwiński. AMBERMART is open to the general public. See you in Gdańsk!
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50
WOMAN AND THE CITY
Photo: Łukasz GŁOWALA
Fashion: Patrycja KOWALCZYK Jewellery: Tomasz KARGUL
GALA AMBER LOOK TRENDS & STYLES 2016 ASYMMETRY
CARBON & DIAMONDS-ORGANICA
Fashion: Joanna WEYNA Hats: Beata MIŁOGRODZKA Jewellery: Jola and Andrzej KUPNIEWSCY
Fashion: Aneta POPŁAWSKA Jewellery: Eliza & Krzysztof BONDARUK
POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
CHROMANTIK Fashion: Małgorzata WASIK Jewellery: Maja WOŹNIAK
GDNCollection Fashion: DIVERSE Jewellery: Emilia KOHUT
SPOD óNIEGU Fashion: Beata JARMOŁOWSKA Jewellery: Danuta BURCZIK-KRUCZKOWSKA
SKIN TO SKIN Fashion: Mirka DWORAK Jewellery: Daria JANKOWIAK
MECHANIC FLOWER
ORIENT EXPRESS
Fashion: Michał StAROST Jewellery: Joanna KOTOWICZ-BUCZYŃSKA , Dagmara KIRAGA with Centrum NAUKI KOPERNIK and Katarzyna C. MARCINIAK
Fashion: Joanna BŁAŻEJOWSKA Jewellery: Dorota CENECKA
SMACZNA Fashion: Jola SŁOMA & Mirek TRYMBULAK Jewellery: Danuta CZAPNIK
Legal regula ons for Jewellery, Gems, Amber Contract law, Civil Law disputes, Legal documents Disputes with state and municipal ins tu ons Construc on, Land and Territory Planning Law
M.K. Paco str. 4. VILNIUS 10309, LITHUANIA +370 686 48239 egle@legallogic.lt hÂ’p://legallogic.lt
Civil Law disputes Family Law Construc on, Land and Territory Planning Law
By Agata JANKOWIAK / www.PicaPica.pl
Tomasz
Line A: dedicated to the European market and characterized by form of simple lines, crossing through
Kargul has designed the jewellery
repeatedly, sharp and angular ones, inspired by contemporary
for 16 years, but he lately stated it is
architecture;
going to be his permanent job. Earlier, he thought the passion
Line B: dedicated to the Asian market and characterized
is to elapse like leaving aside dreams about a balloon flight,
by soft and oval not crossing lines, inspired by feng shui
rapid cycling down or piloting a chaser, meanwhile it was
philosophy;
not. Yet he still missed the idea how to use it in a future life.
GeoAmber brand develops great. Innovative goldsmith
He was aware the fact that he would like to face with the
solutions used in collection, won recognition among clients
amber – our national pride. Can you realize, dear Magpie what
of Europe, United States of America and Asia during Amberif –
is an issue with the fossilized resin? A polished drop usually
International Fair of Amber in 2015. Tomasz was awarded in
reflects a pear – the easiest thing is to attach some leaf to it
2015: 2nd place while 1st International Amber Triennale in
to make a simple project related to plan-based motif. Tomasz
Flombork, the merit (category: Technical Innovation) during
did not want to be the one who does that. He believed it is
Jeweller’s Contest Mercurius Gedanensis, the merit in the
possible to create amber projects that can attract, outstand
contest “Design a Jewellery using Bottle Caps” and also during
and not to bore at the same time.
Warsaw Fashion Street exhibition .
The edification came to him in an unexpected place. During
I must admit that thanks to GeoAmber projects, I started
one of his trips, he saw an arena in Pekin – an architectonic
to wear amber again. It is the result of the Tomasz’s mission
pearl, the work of Swiss duet Herzog & Meuron. In the area of
victory.
an oval lump, the organic curvature they concluded simple and geometric lines. It was a proper contrast, Tomasz wanted to see in jewellery. Ideas was coming to him like crazy ones, so he started to saw, polish and take care of precise amber brazing. It was almost unreal to run his company and create at the same time. He needed some help, otherwise he could lose his firm and iconic projects would not save him. So he established a partnership with Radosław Irga, who is responsible for client negotiations and also building retail chain. They mutually contemplated the collection and created two lines of GeoAmber products.
Pictures: Katarzyna JANKOWIAK / www.PicaPica.pl
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POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT
GeoAmber – AMBER THAT ATTRACTS
ENCHANTED by a dress made from amber By Virginija ZYGIENE Dalia DUŠKESĖ first learned about amber during her childhood years – by playing with her mother‘s long and old amber necklace. The artist‘s interest in amber returned unexpectedly after visiting her good friend‘s amber jewellery shop. “That shop was the place where I saw amber from a different perspective, and discovered it anew. It was the summer of 2008. Since, at the time, I was a seamstress and a creator, I started to wonder whether it would be possible to make a dress out of amber. After all, amber warms and soothes us, it protects and heals, provides strength and is incredibly beautiful”, – says the designer while talking about her friendship with amber and plans to create an amber clothing collection.
THE
conversation with the artist begins from her professional career choice. After her school
studies and after finishing Kaunas four-year children‘s art school, Dalia started working as a seamstress in a factory, and later – in Kaunas Drama Theatre. At that time, she understood that sewing is actually a very interesting trade, and she enjoys creating clothing from various different fabrics. “Fabric is a special material that can be transformed into beautiful clothes. Some fabrics are hard and “sublime”, while others are slippery as rippling water. I have noticed that you must understand fabrics, as, in fact, all other material things. Sometimes you succeed, and sometimes you fail to do so. For me, sewing was always and will always be art, creation and discovery: to tailor clothes so that they would hide the imperfections of a person‘s figure, and highlight the features that are beautiful”, – says the designer. According to her, she still remembers all her successful designs, which, after they were finished, would put her in a state of emptiness and unusual melancholic serenity and it would take her at least a day to recover and rest. “I feel happiest
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when I see that clothing created by me bring joy to women, blend in with their essence and become a part of them, as if becoming their second skin. And, when I hired helpers to sew my designs for me, my female customers started to change. I still remember the words of one woman: “It is important for me that you sew the clothes yourself.” Then I realized that it is very important to love what you do, and love is something that makes clothing a part of you. This feeling gives life and soul to a piece of clothing, and only then can it protect a person from the cold as well as bad intentions from others”,– says the artist.
Dalia DUŠKESĖ
According to Dalia, she did not know much about amber until the summer of 2008. She only knew that it was a mandatory attribute for the national costume of Lithuanian women. However, her idea to create a dress made of amber, which became quite famous later on, turned everything upside
“Amber mandala – SURYA NAMASKAR”
down. Only when she began to tie the dress, Dalia started to feel that this technique was always a part of her, as if sleeping inside her mind, and she only had to awaken it. I caught the “amber dress bug” – I would wake up at five in the morning and would start working without even changing out of my night robes. On the last month, I had some help from my friends. The skirt of the dress was tied by five people at once”, – says the artist while sharing her memories. The amber dress participated for the first time with the “Arza” gallery (co-author of the dress) in the “Amberif” exhibition held in Gdansk, in the spring of 2009. In September of the same year, Dalia‘s dress was recognized as the heaviest amber dress (weighing 2,639 kg) by the Lithuanian Records Registration Agency “Factum”. Later, in 2013, the artist‘s jewellery and dress participated in Frankfurt‘s “Ambiente” exhibition. The amber dress, which was estimated to be worth 30 thousand euros, was also worn by Karolina Toleikytė, who represented Lithuania in “Miss Planet 2015” beauty contest held in Georgia and won an award for best costume.
disliked only by those who do not know or understand it”, –
The designer mentions that her wrists began to hurt from
says the artist, expressing her admiration for amber.
intensive work during the creation process of the dress. She decided to wrap her wrists in amber fabric strips and, after a
JEWELLERY VARIETY
few minutes, felt that her pains started to subside. This inspired
The designer‘s creations also include an amber scarf which
her to create amber wristlets. “In winter, amber wristlets keep
can be worn both by women and men. Whereas her amber
the wrists warm and soothe wrist pains. And when I put on a
mandala was custom made and its production was quite
necklace, I no longer need a scarf”, – says Dalia.
unusual: the artist‘s home was filled with peace, concentration
The designer believes that it is impossible to not fall in
and the sounds of meditative music for an entire month.
love with amber when you feel its mysterious nature, feel
“Each article of jewellery that I create is an expression of my
how it warms up in your hands, and how exceptional it is, yet
love to everything it touches. All my creations are interesting
simple at the same time.
and different. I remember tying one bracelet, which I thought
“Amber protects, heals, warms, soothes, comforts and
looked rather strange, but I could not force myself to pull it apart.
loves. It is modest (can be worn with a simple sweater), yet
This bracelet managed to quickly find its own master during
also luxurious, as it can compete with gemstones. Amber is
an exhibition. I have often observed how women see a certain
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
for massage purposes. You can carry a piece of amber in your pocket and hold it in your hand or rub it between your fingers when you feel stressed. There are no doubts that amber heals and protects. “Amber jewellery warms and soothes babies, as well as protects them against bad intentions. Babies can also chew amber during their teething period. In ancient times, babies were also given amber pacifiers. Amber acid is similar to our body fluids – it improves the immune system and so on. Amber blends well with wool, cotton, silk and linen. Together with Inga Samušienė and Rasa Žostautienė, we have created felt slippers with
“The eye of the sun”
amber”, – says Dalia. bracelet or necklace that they like, try it on and do not want to
FUTURE PLANS
take it off. Still, I am only the executor, an intermediary between
We were curious about the author‘s plans to exhibit her
the customer and the creator”, – says the jeweller and designer.
works in the near future.
Amber has over 300 different shades and each piece of
“I have a lot of plans and dreams which are simply unable
amber, even the smallest one, has its own colour, pattern
to catch up with my wishes and possibilities. I have a dream
and design. It preserves plant particles, small bugs and grains
to present my works in Moscow, Japan, the Arab Emirates,
of sand for millions of years. That is why the artist admires
and, once again, in “Ambiente”. I would like to create an
each piece of amber, as each piece is unique. Each article of
amber clothing collection where amber directly touches the
amber jewellery is a story about the world 50 million years
biologically active points of the body”, – says the designer.
ago, and each drop of amber is a wish and energy devoted to
She reveals that her works will also soon include
us, humans, says Dalia.
other types of jewellery. Especially since the artist loves to cooperate, communicate and establish friendly relations with
THE UNIQUENESS OF AMBER
manufacturers of various fields, to match and surprise, and to
“This marvellous mineral is God‘s gift to the world, as we
unexpectedly combine various different materials.
are unable to create anything like it, even with the help of
“Each person whom I meet is my teacher who has the ability
the latest technologies. Therefore, I can confidently say that
to strongly influence my path as an executor. The people I meet
amber heals and I treat it with love and respect”, – says Dalia.
are exceptional and charismatic. I am immensely impressed
The artist also mentions amber powder, which is extremely
with anagama ceramics created by Dormantė and Jurgis
valuable and used in cosmetics and the production of medicine
Penkinskis. We will see what comes out of. I sincerely hope
since ancient times. By pouring water over amber pieces and
that, just like me, each person will feel the joy of discovery when
slightly heating it, you change the water‘s structure and make
viewing amber from a different perspective”, – says the artist.
it particularly useful, as well as make tea with a distinctive taste.
You can find Dalia‘s latest creative discoveries on her
Amber oil soothes pain and relaxes, therefore it is widely used
Facebook page.
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
“METALLOPHONE” – ONE-OF-THE-KIND Interview with Kristina MIZGIRYTE by Odilija GUNTORIUTE
Tadas Deksnys (LT), artist and curator Ketli Tiitsaar (EST) and lecturer of Academy of Art Lodz, Department of jewelry art Ewa Effenberg (PL).
1)
5)
Mission of the biennale “METALLOphone: personally” 2014 and „METALLOphone: Bonds
What is the feedback that you got from artists themselves – why do they take part in this
project? Why is it exiting for them?
2016“ is to connect different artists around the world who speak one identical metal language. It is a very
“Metallophone” has become a tradition and it’s constantly
beautiful and inspiring aim, how did idea for biennial
growing and involving new artists from all over the world.
come about?
According to the majority of artists, “Metallophone” is a
In many cases artists get stuck in the routine and they
great place to learn about the world stage of metal art and
often tend to forget that they are part of a great worldwide
an opportunity to present one’s artwork in an international
community. “Metallophone” is the only event dedicated to
context. A number of artists, who participated in 2014, are
metal art, therefore, we attempt to unite artists working with
presenting their newest art pieces again this year. We are
metal, encourage them to get to know each other, allow them
also very glad to have many new well-known as well as rising
to communicate, share and work together.
metal art artists. One of the reasons why artists choose to
2)
participate in the event is that the biennale is exceptionally How many artists participated in the selection
devoted to modern metal art. It is one-of-the-kind event in
for the exhibition?
the Baltic States that attracts artists from various continents.
In total, 109 artists participated in the selection process;
Lithuania, as well as Estonia, have good metal art and jewellery
they have presented 250 art pieces.
schools, artists brought up in these schools are famous all
3)
around the world; therefore, it is no surprise that the event of How many were selected for the exhibition?
metal art, which takes place in our region attracts a number
Which countries participate in METALLOphone?
of international participants.
Which are the most active?
6)
63 artists were selected with 110 art pieces in total. The selection process involved artists from all over the world.
You will hold online international lecture cycle. When will the program be available? Where will
it be available?
The biennale gathered attention not only in Europe, but also Asia, America and as far as New Zealand. The exhibition will
The 2016 event “METALLOphone: realtions” will include a
include artists from Lithuania, Latvia, Turkey, Romania, Poland,
new program – an online international lecture cycle. During this
Germany, Greece, Belgium, Japan, the USA, Sweden, Denmark,
cycle, artists from all over the world will get the opportunity
the Netherlands, Taiwan, Columbia, Canada, Estonia, Austria,
to share their insights and knowledge regarding metal art
the Great Britain, Pakistan, South Korea, Israel, Italy, Brazil,
and its directions. Lecture cycle schedule will be announced
Thailand, Finland, Spain and New Zealand.
in the beginning of September, on “METALLOphone” website
4)
www.metalofonas.com. Who are the members of jury? Art pieces for the exhibition were selected by
secret, i.e. the jury was not aware of the artists’ names. Works of art were judged by an international jury, which included: jeweler Sigitas Virpilaitis (LT), associate professor of Vilnius Academy of Arts, Faculty of Telsiai Mindaugas Simkevicius (LT), art critic and jeweler Justina Zymonaitė (LT), jeweler
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT MICHIHIRO SATO (Japan)
LENA LINDAHL (Sweden)
“Not two different things”, 2016 It is said in Buddhism that being alive is the manifestation of life and being dead is the latent form of life, so both of them are just different appearances of life and not two different things. Silver, paper, stainless steel 11x6x6 cm. Object
“Mother”, 2015 Family What are our bonds? Which one is the strongest? Being an artist mainly working with silver I feel strongly about my favourite metal. Its plasticity, its many shades and the sensuality in the meeting with the skin always inspire me. The strongest bonds though for all of us humans are the ones to nature and family. No matter what paths we may follow in life we will always carry our childhood and our family bonds within. And wherever we choose to go we will depend on nature in order to survive. I want my brooches to be reminders of these bonds. I think we need it. Silver, artificial plant 10x7 cm. Brooch
WU CHING-CHIH (Taiwan) “Heart square series”, 2015 Using electric forming, I have transformed found objects into metal and then restored the original colour and shape with enamel. My message is the question whether the value of found objects still remains after the transformation. In addition, I have also inserted the concept of jewellery and sculpture into this piece by taking the jewellery’s functionality as a partial form of the object. Hence, the work no longer only serves a function, but also expresses the concept of a micro-sculpture. This group of work was created with a sculptural concept in mind, and as for material performance, the contrast of smooth and coarse texture was created. Copper, bronze, stainless steel, enamel 9x9x4 cm. Brooch
RUUDT PETERS (Netherlands) TERRAM “Bakken”, 2015 We walk the world on our feet, but we are not aware that our feet do more than merely carry us. Our feet are necessary tools, but they also root us to the ground. I emphasize awareness of my place as a jewellery maker in the world of body and mind. Terram helps me to connect the micro- and macrocosm, the upper world and the underworld. Step on the ground. Silver, renshape 70x130x90 Object
EGLĖ ČĖJAUSKAITĖ-GINTALĖ (Lithuania) “Bonds” Connections: carrying, connecting, hiding, concealing different interconnections. Silver 10x10 cm Object
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
VITA PUKŠTAITĖ (Lithuania) „Randomness”, 2016 Is the connection between coincidences is accidental? Directions for the use of the work of art: flip horizontally and shake it a bit, then flip vertically before hanging it. Copper, enamel, aliuminium, steal, wood 45x16 cm. Object
YING-HSIEN KUO (Eunice) (England) ”But you promised”, 2015 This project is dedicated to people who have ever struggled in love. In this collection, each metal ring represents a being. Due to gravity, the metal rings dropped further, gradually through time, which can be seen in the installation. The weight of the rings determines the speed at which they drop. Soren Kierkegaard’s ‘Theory of fall’, regarding anxiety, is delivered. Psychologist Robert Sternberg’s ‘Triangular theory of love’, regarding relationship, is symbolized as triangular metal units. The use of solid tape materialized the complex emotions that we have in an unpleasant relationship. Tape is representative of the mind in this state. It sticks to anything and in turn possesses. The minimal shape and the solidity of metal bring out the most fundamental characteristics of this material. This allows metal units to have some certain interactive with the tape in this project; rolling, falling, trimming and holding pieces are actions that link to its forms. Sterling silver, tape, ink 5x0.3x 3 cm. Ring
MARIE GREWENIG (Germany) “O(H)RDEN”, 2015 For my jewellery I use the means of expression which I know best and which is the most intimate – my body. Using my body I can visualize gestures, sentiments, and emotions that are associated with different meanings. I try to focus on parts, gestures or on actions, which seem to be profane and selfevident. The resulting imprints of the body form new bodies. They seem familiar but also strange and vague at the same time. On the subject of BONDS, I focused on the act of listening. Listening is the basis of our daily communication and an important connection for our daily cooperation. It is too often judged as natural and is not esteemed. By my work I emphasize the good listening and appreciation for it. Aluminium, synthetic material 8x8x 4 cm. Object
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ILZE KIBURE (Latvia) “The Inheritance”, 2016 My grandparents Ieva and Žanis have left an amazing inheritance to me. They both were craftsmen. I combine the masculine, heavy and unclean metal-working of my grandfather and feminine, gentle handicrafts of my grandmother – crochet in the jewellery collection The Inheritance. Copper, silk thread 44 cm, width 3 cm. Necklace
ARIC VERRASTRO (USA) “On the Horizon“, 2016 I have recently been displaced from living in a city, which has left emptiness in my life. The creation of each piece has become a method to fill the void and a reflection of the many aspects of city life. The forms are architectural, modular, constructed from steel, becoming allegorical representations of the energy of a thriving, vibrant environment. The variations of form show diversity and are linked to concepts of dancing lights and the beautiful musical chaos in the streets. Steel is painted with vibrant colours giving vitality to the cold, hard material. Stitching softens the hard-edged forms creating a sense of comfort and approachability paralleling my nostalgia for city life. The thread acts as a metaphorical timeline of an individual’s pathway meandering through the busy streets. Each break in the thread signifies a person amongst the many. The human body completes the piece of jewellery as people fill and give life to architectural spaces, expressing the vitality and connection I feel towards the urban human experience. Steel, copper, sterling silver, stainless steel. thread, 23k gold leaf, acrylic paint 10x12x 7 cm. Object
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
JORDI APARICIO MANCHADO (Spain) “Anima 10”, 2016 Going from precious material to the most primitive, I emphasize metaphorical meanings of shade, tinge, tint, and blandness. The result is a series of delicate and profound works, in which I express the fears and obsessions that live in me. Silver wire 25x8x5 cm. Object
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
“MY H ME”
JEWELLERY CATEGORY
1st place “For plasticity of form” Kim JI YOUNG Before sunrise
THE WINNERS: OBJECTS CATEGORY
1st place “For expressive dialogue” Ernesta STATKUTE The power of harmony
“MY HOME” WAS A THEME OF THE JEWELLERY CONTEST, WHICH TOOK PLACE IN 13TH AMBER TRIP JEWELLERY EXHIBITION IN VILNIUS, LITHUANIA. OVER 90 WORKS OF ARTISTS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD PARTICIPATED. ARTISTS WERE ASKED TO THINK HOW WOULD THEY REPRESENT THEIR HOME IN A PIECE OF JEWELLERY. THE CONTEXT OF A CURRENT REFUGEE CRISIS, WHEN MILLIONS OF PEOPLE HAVE TO LEAVE THEIR HOME, THIS TOPIC IS EVEN MORE RELEVANT. THE SELECTED WORKS WERE PRESENTED IN MAGAN GALLERY IN LONDON AND RAMYBES GALLERY IN PALANGA.
Remigija VAITKUTE Home
Joana HENRIQUES Covreia
Agne ZALTAUSKAITE Home – safest shelter
Jelizaveta SUSKA The roots in the amber
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Camilla MILETO Baltic Little Space
Wojciech JERZY Brylka
2nd place “For diverse material matching solution” 3rd place “For elegant union of materials” Juris GAGAINIS Andrei BALASHOV
2nd place “For playful censorship” 3rd place “For philosophical solution of different materials” Una MIKUNDA Jaan PAERN
Diana GLADKAJA Unelfish home
Karolina SIBURKYTE Your Heart Is My Home
HEIDEMARIE Herb Eva PEI Wu
Robertas KRAPAVICKAS Hospitality
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Viktorija VAINIUTE The skin
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Shortly after the book was published Petry organised an exhibition of the same name based on the book. The exhibition consists of historic still-life paintings and contemporary art works of leading artists of the 21st century. The exhibition has already been shown in Norway (Ha Gamle Prestegard), in Sweden (Bohusian Museum). In the beginning of 2017 a show in Poland (National Museum in Wroclaw) is planned. From September 2017 to January 2018 the final stop of the tour will be held at London’s Guildhall Art Gallery in the City of London. The London edition will be accompanied by the Nature Morte jewellery exhibition at MOCA London and will include works from the Amber Trip 2017 competition, chosen by the curators.
NATURE MORTE Art Jewellery Competition
The topic and entries: The topic is Nature Morte. Jewellery / objects in all techniques and materials are accepted.
accompanying the Amber Trip XIV International Baltic Jewellery Show in Vilnius (Lithuania).
Amber is not obligatory but recommended material. As fossilized remains of ancient life it could be called a ‘natural nature morte’.
Nature morte or or still life, a genre commonly
The Jury: Michael PETRY, director of MOCA London, UK
associated with painting, has been present in art from
Arts, Poland
the earliest times. As a genre, it became formalised in the
Tanel VEENRE, professor at Estonian Academy of Arts, Tallin,
seventeenth century. Contemporary artists still explore the
Estonia
topic with all its symbolic tradition as well as new connotations
Andi GUT, professor at Hochschule für Gestaltung in Pforzheim,
in different media. Nevertheless there are very few works of
Germany
contemporary art jewellery associated with nature morte.
Irina SLESAROVA, editor, Russian Jeweller magazine, Moscow,
Giedymin JABLONSKI, professor at Wroclaw Academy of
This time except the standard prizes the participants have
Russia
a chance of including their work in a very special exhibition
Valdis BROŽE, freelance artist, Latvia
showing art jewellery in context of the contemporary art as
Laima KERIENE, professor at Vilnius Academy of Arts (VDA),
a whole.
Vilnius, Lithuania
In 2013 Michael Petry – artist, curator, author, Director of
The awards: I prize – free place in the International Baltic
the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), London published a
Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” 2017, the article about the author
book entitled NATURE MORTE, Contemporary artists reinvigorate
and advertisement in the magazine “Baltic Jewelery News”.
the Still Life tradition. The introduction ‘Revisiting the Still Life’
II prize – free place in the International Baltic Jewellery Show
contains a short history of the genre and its multi layered
“Amber Trip” 2017, the article about the author in the magazine
symbolism followed by a chronological review of examples
“Baltic Jewelery News”.
of the ‘classic’ – from ancient Egypt and Leonardo da Vinci to
III prize – free place in the international Baltic Jewellery Show
Robert Mapplethorpe and Andy Warhol.
“Amber Trip” 2017, an interview with the author in the magazine
He followed this with a review of contemporary examples
“Baltic Jewelery News”.
in a wide variety of media. He widens the generally accepted
The timing: The jury session and award ceremony: 15–18 of
meaning of still life often seen only as ‘flat’ – painting, drawing
March 2017. Deadline for entries: 1 March 2016
and photography to the 3D representations – sculpture,
Contact / questions: Participation details: Odilija Guntoriute,
installation and objects. The review is divided into the historic
office@balticjewellerynews.com
areas of still life: Flora, Food, House & Home, Fauna and finally
Art and craft problems: Giedymin jablonski, giedymin.
Death.
jablonski@gmail.com
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
CEO of Amber Trip Giedrius GUNTORIUS
EXHIBITION “AMBER TRIP” is a Platform for Deals and Market Analysis
Giedrius
By Virginija ZYGIENE The amber market had been growing for the past six years. However, currently it has encountered some major confusion: amber purchases from China ceased, smuggling of illegal amber from Ukraine continues, and the local entrepreneurs’ opportunities to purchase raw material from amber facilities in Kaliningrad are limited. These issues are on the market participants’ minds before the upcoming 14th International Jewellery and Amber Exhibition “Amber Trip 2017”.
Guntorius, the Organizer of “Amber Trip” – the only
international exhibition in the Baltic States annually held in Vilnius in March, said that currently the market is frozen: the prices of raw amber and amber articles are dropping and there are several reasons for that. One of them is that China has stopped buying the so called sun stone and such trends could be observed over the past 2–3 months. For this reason the price of amber stones intended for the Chinese market might drop to the pricing level of year 2010. “The amber market had been growing over the past 6 years, but perhaps this growth has already stopped and we would return to normal business conditions like in other industries, when business grows and drops little by little. But as for now, the participants in the raw amber market do not know what to expect: weather it is a break before the next sprint in the
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68
of “Amber Trip” cluster expected to receive funds from the EU
G. Guntorius.
structural funds for investments in amber business in 2016.
The Chinese market is particularly significant for the entire
Meanwhile no-one has expressed interest in participating
global amber industry, because approximately 50–60 percent
in an open competition for survey and extraction of amber in
of all amber and amber articles are exported to this Asian
the Curonian Lagoon initiated by the Lithuanian Geological
country, whereas the other part of it is exported to Europe,
Service yet. The deadline for submission of applications for
Arab countries, and America.
participations is the 20th of September but the possibility
According to G. Guntorius, chaos on the market is also
that the competition might fail to take place should be taken
caused by contraband raw amber which flooded the market
into consideration as well. The Ministry of the Environment
from Ukraine. A large scope of illegal mining and sales prevent
established a rate for the extracted Baltic gold: a 280-Euro
the price of amber on the market from settling down and bring
rate per kilogram, when the amber fraction was under 40
in lots of confusion.
millimetres, and a 900-Euro rate per kilogram, when the amber
“In March this year during Exhibition “Amber Trip 2016”
fraction exceeded 40 millimetres. On the other hand, the
we came to an agreement that the Lithuanian entrepreneurs
entrepreneur, who would win the competition, would have to
would contribute their accumulated global experience in
invest not only in surveying amber mines but also in assessment
order to help in bringing some order in amber mining and
of the impact on the environment and purchase equipment for
trade business in Ukraine. “Amber Trip” cluster, which united
extraction of amber. The Lithuanian Government estimates that
over 40 Lithuanian companies in 2013, has already signed
approximately 41 million Euros in revenue could be received
cooperation agreements with three major Ukrainian authorities
for amber extracted from the mine in Juodkrantė.
regarding regulation of raw amber market. Adjustment of legal
“It is also possible that no applications for the competition
framework would result in legalization of amber extraction and
for surveying and extraction of amber have been filed because
the raw material could be sold on the exchange market which
currently the market is not favourable for this due to drop in
we hope to attract to Vilnius this year”, spoke the organizer
prices of raw amber”, contemplated G. Guntorius.
of “Amber Trip”.
MARKET TRENDS IN EXHIBITION “AMBER TRIP”
Only several companies have been licensed to mine and sell amber in Ukraine, where potential resources of amber could
The Organizer of Exhibition “Amber Trip” noted that the
be up to 1 million tons. Several tons of amber are extracted in
confusion on the market of raw amber supply, China, Russia,
Ukraine per year, however, illegal export of the so-called sun
and problems concerning the illegal Ukrainian amber have
stone ranges to hundreds of tons. Estimates indicate that at
already been discussed in great detail during the Exhibition
least 50 tons of amber are exported from this country by way
held in March this year giving signals to participants on the
of contraband. According to the data available to the British
market.
press, smugglers pocket approximately 1 billion of US dollars
“The Exhibition held next year will also include relevant
annually for amber illegally exported from Ukraine.
discussions and seminars giving a chance to get inside
Amber facilities in Kaliningrad also add their fair share to
information on trends on the global amber market. We will
the unknown on the market as it suspended amber export
discuss not only China, Russia, or Ukraine, we will also organize
in this way limiting amber processors’ access to purchasing
a Belarusian forum during the Exhibition. Belarus is relevant not
the raw material back in autumn in 2014. Only companies
only to Lithuania but also to nearby countries such as Poland,
registered in Russia and companies operating on the local
Latvia, because Belarus could give access to the CIS countries.
market are entitled to take part in the auctions for raw amber
Exhibition “Amber Trip” will give a platform for making deals
organized by the facilities. According to the data available to
and market analysis, as always”, said G. Guntorius.
geologists, even 95 percent of all amber mines known globally are located precisely on the Eastern shore of the Baltic Sea.
The amber market had been growing over the past 6 years, but perhaps this growth has already stopped and
“We have good news: “Amber Trip” cluster is negotiating amber facilities in Kaliningrad regarding long-term cooperation. A contract would ensure steady supply of raw
WE WOULD RETURN TO NORMAL BUSINESS CONDITIONS
amber to companies of the cluster and would open the door to Europe for the amber facilities by turning amber supply back to
like in other industries
normal”, said G. Guntorius. He also mentioned that companies
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
market or should they get ready for market recession”, said
LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
JASSIM BOUHAMAD:
“I like Amber Trip for two reasons. One of them its very secure for me. And they prepare everything for me rooms, tickets – I like it. I think that people here are very friendly with the customer.” AMBER TRIP STANDS OUT FROM OTHER EXHIBITIONS WITH ITS COZY AND FRIENDLY ATMOSPHERE.
AMBER TRIP HAS PROVEN ITSELF TO BE THE PLATFORM OF PROBLEM SOLVING. In conference “Amber industry year 2015 review and year
Bigger than ever Amber Trip this year presented 150
2016 perspective” issues of amber supply from Kaliningrad
companies from all over the world. 70 % of exhibitors were
were discussed. General Director of Kaliningrad Amber Factory
selling amber products, the rest presented precious metals,
Mikhail ZATSEPIN invited everyone to a new platform where
precious, semi-precious stones and new technologies of
issues can be discussed – First Economic Amber Forum.
jewellery making. But this exhibition is not only about sales
In a round table conference Lithuanian amber producers
and business. There is a long tradition and strong and long-
and interested parties met to discuss issues of amber extraction
term business relationships that are build in this venue.
in Ukraine. After which conference “Cooperation between
Russian ambassador in Lithuania Udaltsov Alexander and General Director of Kaliningrad Amber Factory Mikhail ZATSEPIN and General Director of Kaliningrad Amber Factory Mikhail ZATSEPIN
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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Vladimir JACENKIVSKY,Ambasador of Ukraine in Lithuania; Aleksandr NOSAL, Director of International Reform Centre and Giedrius Guntorius, CEO of the Amber Trip. Mr. and Mrs. FERN in the middle and participants of the seminar “How to buy amber?”
Ukraine and Lithuania to develop amber industry. Amber exchange creation in Vilnius.” Ukrainian ambassador in Lithuania Volodymyr Yatsenkivskyi was happy that Lithuanian amber society has such a strong interest to share their business experience with Ukraine and hoped for a better amber market in Ukraine future.
AMBER TRIP BUYERS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD During Amber Trip exhibitors notices growing interest in amber from the Middle East. Though China still remains the
NEXT YEAR
main buyer, which could be noticed in Amber Trip as well. We
Issues that we will be discussing:
•
could think that China know amber well, but further promotion is needed. Amber Trip and its community actively work to
Amber mining and exporting legislations in Ukraine – how it impacts amber market
attract new buyers. Famous amber promoter Mrs. Vilia Fehrn and Giedrius Guntorius gave a seminar “How to buy amber?” to a group of Chinese visitors.
VILIA FERN:
“You cannot find anything more fashionable than amber”
worldwide?
•
Why nobody wants to invest in amber mining in
•
Jewellery market perspectives in Belarus – how
•
Amber auctions in Kaliningrad – how is market
•
Why demand of amber in China slowed down?
Lithuania? could Lithuania and Belarus cooperate? adapting to new rules?
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LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
By Zane PUTĀNE
CONVERSATION with a cloud
Valdis BROŽE
Art gallery Putti presents the summer exhibition „Conversation with a cloud”, on display from June 15 until September 15, 2016. The exhibition will consist of Latvian and international contemporary jewellery artists` works.
I
want to become a part of eternity. I climb up on a mountain
brooches with airplanes shooting through them. Julia Maria
and walk into a cloud. Cloud – it is a unit of measurement.
Kunnap is a Jewellery designer from Estonia – she creates
I walk into sky and take a cloud with me as memorabilia, it is
her jewellery by carving of precious stones, which turn out in
white and clear as rock crystal. With a golden thread I saw it
forms that you have never seen before. This time she surprises
to my heart as faith. I am within a miracle. Everything around
with little green sprouts that come out of stone carvings.
me flows and changes. Eternal movement. Cloud turns into
Simeon Shomov (Bulgaria) has won the hearts of Art gallery
mist and covers my childhood dreams with light pink quartz.
Putti visitors with romantic and detailed jewellery that tells
I take silver thread and saw a quartz button in my skirt – for
a story of friendship, love or other emotions. KIRAYURINA
pink dreams that are long forgotten. For hope. And then I find
(Japan) presents wonderful brooches that incorporate mirrors
cloud – as red as garnet, and I put in on my hand as a ring. For
and vibrant colours which are a great way how to complete
love. Now I search for a way back. And I make a rainbow cloud
an outfit. Akiko Kurihara (Japan) has created intricate and
bridge from ruby red, orange cornelian, yellow citrine, green
conceptual pieces that has details which are often invisible
chrysoprase, evening blue topaz, dark blue sapphire and violet
to anyone, but the wearer knows it’s there. This can serve as a
amethyst. Now I am winnowed by eternity.
small source of confidence. Gisbert Stach (Germany) presents
Different Latvian and international contemporary jewellery
very provocative pieces – in his works with amber he has been
artists participate in the exhibition “Conversation with a cloud.
experimenting with the material using it as a pigment and mold
Guntis Lauders, Māris Auniņš, Māris Šustiņš, Valdis Brože
material. In conjunction with silicone and the choice of motifs
and Andris Lauders are beloved artists from Latvia, whose
from the fast food area he transfers the traditional material to
works are always found in Art gallery Putti. They each have
the present. Panjapol Kulpapangkorn (Thailand) has created
different working techniques and styles, and they always
works as part of a project that focuses on the connection
aim for the best quality in their pieces. In the pieces made by
between a lost memory and a new created memory. He has
Gigi Mariani (Italy) contrast between geometric form and
dedicated his “Personal collection” of black flower brooches
material texture allows him to develop works that are unique
to his mother. Stacey Huang (China) participates in this
and sculptural, in which niello is the pictorial material applied
exhibition with a piece that breaks borders between art genres.
to canvases of silver and gold. Reka Lorincz (Hungary) always
A video is shown of her wearing a necklace made by her that
surprises with fresh ideas, thought provoking concepts and
contains pigeon`s favourite food. The most important part of
crazy colours. For this exhibition she has prepared pearl cloud
this artwork is how the pigeons interact with the necklace.
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72
LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Reka LORINCZ “Cloud” Brooch – gold-plated brass, pearl, alloy
Māris AUNIŅŠ Necklace – gold 585, silver 925, aquamarine
Akiko KURIHARA “Bomb” Earrings – 18kt white gold, 18kt yellow gold, electro-color pated silver
Simeon SHOMOV “Take my heart” Earrings, silver 925, 24ct golden plate, glass
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LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
νεῶν κατάλογος THE CATALOGUE OF SHIPS Interview with Anna FANIGINA by Odilija GUNTORIUTE
„The
Catalogue of Ships”* exhibition of Anna
Since Anna Fanigina created VERBA (“words”) jewellery
Fanigina took place at Masha Goncharova
brand, her claim to fame and essential became inscriptions
Atelier (Gangutskaya Str. 16) in Saint Petersburg, open to
in Latin. As soon as the history of this brand is more than ten
the public from May 26th to June 25th 2016. Fifty silver and
years now, the long-desired Greek collection has come, so let
electrum rings were exhibited there.
it be the only start of exciting journey.
Every ring as it were ship, that could float away together
Anna Fanigina – designer from Latvia, VERBA jewellery
with you or stay on your finger as a great friend, struggling
brand founder. Firstly received degree in mathematics, later
against the waves of daily worries and aspirations. Each ring
she graduated from Riga Arts and Crafts College metallic
is branded with its own „watermark” – a phrase in Greek,
design division.
quotation or just with some words on simple and proper things
She participated in many arts exhibitions in Latvia,
for all times – fair wind, strong canvas, courage, love and joy.
Lithuania, Russia, Finland and Italy. She is awards winner at
That’s what we are always full of after visiting the seaside, trying
Latvian Design Contests, Faberge jewelry contest in Finland
to keep this feeling long after being back from the journey, and
and “Jewellery Olympus” Contest in Saint Petersburg, Russia.
this is how we could steal a page from Ancient Greek’s book.
Anna also participated in Hermitage archeological
These inscriptions in Greek are made with micro-chase
expeditions to Crimea and Italy.
technology, as mostly marine stones are used in this collection
Her works are exhibited at Latvian decorative art and
– aquamarines, as well as heliodors, chrystolites and quartzes.
design Museum collection.
The marine theme additionally described with handmade
1)
glasse, made by special order using blow technique, furnished with sending ups on the language of Ancient Greeks.
Anna, where else do you plan to show this exhibition?
The Greek Collection «The Catalogue of Ships» is scheduled
Photos by Vladimir Svetlov
to be displayed in November in Amsterdam within the framework of the SIERAAD Exhibition, and then in Moscow.
2)
How did idea „The Catalogue of Ships” come to you?
The idea of «Greek» collection came up right after a trip
to Athens a few years ago. After seeing such an abundance of Greek letters around, familiar to me from my past involvement in physics and mathematics, I realised that they simply must appear in my accessories, but at that time I had no idea in
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74
DOPON («gift») — simply became my secret lucky charms. Ancient Greek jewellery helped me fall in love with gold — yellow, filled with sun and light, even though silver is used to be my absolute favourite. I’m absolutely delighted with glyptic art and gemstone carving. Both the Hermitage and the British Museum have excellent collections made using this technique.
4)
How did you decide to become a jeweller?
When I entered Riga College of Applied Arts, it was very
difficult for me to choose a faculty, because I liked almost every one of them. I decided in favour of Metal Design because of the desire to do something that will serve the people for a long time and not just one generation, and perhaps will tell something about us to archaeologists of the future and maybe even confuse them a little.
Anna FANIGINA. Photo by Kirill Orlov
certain amount of time had to pass. While working with Latin
5)
words and texts that are traditionally used in VERBA jewellery
not to lose the feeling of a greater whole behind small details.
which exactly. For the collection to mature and take shape, a
What do you think is the most important trait for a jeweller?
The most important thing for a jeweller (and not only) is
is usually logical and understandable, the Greek material was
6)
not so easily «translatable» and required special attention. I had to seriously immerse in reading Greek authors and took
Could you name one jeweller who inspires you?
I’ll name two designers who inspire me. Bettina Speckner
the classes of the basic ancient Greek language and even get involved in archaeological excavations of the Greek city of
always «shoots» right into the heart. Lately, I admire Japanese
Nymphaeum as a part of the Hermitage expedition. Only then
designers such as Etsuko Sonobe.
I felt that I accumulated a sufficient amount of experience and
7)
knowledge to ensure that I’m eligible to step into this river completely new to me.
3)
What do you think are the best three galleries in the region around the Baltic sea?
A Jewellery Gallery with very long-standing traditions is the
Does antient Greek jewellery inspire you?
«A» Gallery (www.agalerii.ee) in Tallinn. There is a wonderful
Jewellery of ancient Greece inspired me for a
concept store in Riga that represents the best of Latvian design
long time, since the sensational exhibition in Moscow «The
including jewellery — a store called RIIJA (www.riija.lv). The
Treasures of Troy» in 1996 (although, as we know now, this is
Contemporary Jewellery Art Gallery PLATINA in Stockholm
not a treasure trove of King Priam, but a more ancient one).
(www.platina.se) also has an interesting view.
The Greek Hall in the Hermitage has always been my all-time favourite, and two golden children’s rings of the permanent
* “The Catalogue of Ships” is an epic list from Homer’s Iliad Book two (“song”).
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75
LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
exhibition — one labelled XAPA («joy») and the other named
ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Triinu TIISEL
The moment WHEN A PIECE OF JEWELLERY MEETS THE RIGHT OWNER… Interview with Triinu TIISEL by Odilija GUNTORIUTE
1)
4)
Triinu Tiisel, selection of jewellery in your store is explicit. Do you choose only Estonian artists?
Yes, our premier goal is to stand for Estonian (jewellery)
What kind of jewellery attracts young consummers?
Millennials form a small part of our clientele. They prefer
designers. Unless we see something really unique in
casual, fun and affordable jewellery.
neighbouring country, that will stand out and fortify our
What do you look for when you are selecting
5)
jewellery for your store?
I studied architecture and worked as an architect before
selection.
2)
You yourself are a jewellery artist – why did you choose this art form?
I am not sure.... I guess jewellery chose me. Actually
We put before designers whole imaginative journey to
entering jewellery and design world. For tremendous respect
make long term partnerships. Decision-making process is
toward jewellery artists I don`t want to call myself by that title.
actually rather subjective, mainly based on our inner voice
I see my work as a link between people and artist.
thereof difficult to explain.
3)
6)
If you had to name 5 best jewellery artists in Estonia, who would you pick?
Many jewellery artists focus on ideas and messages that they want to send with their
work. What messages do you send with you jewellery?
Tanel VEENRE, Kadri MÄLK, Darja POPOLITOVA, Urmas
My message is never stop dreaming and dream big! Get
LÜÜS, Sofia HALLIK / SOMA.
inspired by small details in everyday life and use them wisely.
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76
ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Silver / agate necklace by Triinu TIISEL. Photo: Kristiinvisuals.Model: Janely (Starsystem)
Grow with all your experiences and failures. My journey is reflecting in my work by experimenting with construction and techniques.
7)
Which jewellery piece has given you the most sadisfaction? Why?
For me it hasn`t been one piece of jewellery but the
moment when a piece of jewellery meets the right owner. In TALI I can see it almost daily- that love at first sight, perfect fit, direct emotion. That gives me the greatest satisfaction. I try to retransmit it to the designers as much as I can. I guess it`s also one of the biggest motivators in my job.
8)
What are your thoughts on contemporary jewellery?
I can see jewellery design really blossoming here in Estonia.
We have so many artist with important messages, clever material use, substance reuse. Many fashion-, leather-, product, etc- designers starting their own jewellery lines in collaboration with jewellery artist and independently. Designers and artist are coming closer and closer to people (with a little help from
Sterling silver and amber earrings “Are you kittying me” by Triin KUKK. Photo: Johanna Eenma
TALI and other popular design shops). Very interesting and productive time in jewellery field.
9)
Is there any art jewellery exhibition that left a
ways to approach the same subject. I saw students attitude
strong impression on you?
and commitment to creative work. Instead of seeing the final
The recent exhibition I visited took place in TALI and
result I was part of it every step of the way. Antoher impressive
was called HYPE. It was a collaboration between TALI and
exhibition is taking place at the Tallinn Art Hall at the moment,
Estonian Academy of Arts. Masters of different subject fields
named “Idealistid”, what deals with overconsuption, smart
made an accessory for TALI shop. For the first time I was so
material choices and about the idea of sustainable design
close to someone`s creative process. I saw so many different
(from jewelry to clothes design).
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77
CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT
Younger people in China are looking for more individual expression nowdays. Traditional, generic designs do not satisfy the market anymore – what does it mean for amber industry?
CHINA JEWELLERY MARKET REPORT TRENDS
highlighted in China nowadays, consumers, especially younger
According to the Standardisation Administration of the
people, are often not satisfied with more traditional, generic
People’s Republic of China, the gold jewellery appellation
designs. Customised jewellery is widely embraced for wedding
Thousand Pure Gold has been cancelled after 14 years of
rings. For instance, Bloves, which is positioned as wedding
use. Since May 2016, all gold jewellery and the country has
ring customisation specialist, now encourages couples to look
been unified under the new appellation Pure Gold, including
back on their love story and then personally participate in the
all purity, materials, gemstones and jewellery varieties. The
design process in order to customise their exclusive wedding
cancellation of the Thousand Pure Gold collation helps to
rings.
avoid retailers using it as a marketing gimmick to raise prices and encourages consumers to focus instead on fine jewellery design and production technology.
CHINA JEWELLERY MARKET SIZE: RETAIL VALUE RSP (€ MN)
COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE
100,000
Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd retained its leading
50,000
position in jewellery in 2016 with a value share of 6 %. In order
0
to meet demand for wedding jewellery among China’s baby
2013 2014 2015 2016 forecast
boomers, who were born in the 1980s, Chow Tai Fook launched the Perfect Love collection in 2015. Together with its Soul
83,518.70 82,896.00 87,490.20 94,318.00
Love collection and Bridal collection, Chow Tai Fook now provides customised jewellery design services for weddings. Moreover, the company has opened a marriage specialist
COMPANY SHARES RANKING ACCORDING TO RETAIL
store in mainland China, with 80 % of the products sold being
VALUE RSP
marriage related. 1. Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd
PROSPECTS
2. Lao Feng Xiang Co Ltd
During the forecast period, China’s leading jewellery
3. Shanghai Yuyuan Tourist Mart Co Ltd
companies are expected to place more emphasis on
4. Chow Sang Sang Holdings International Ltd
personalised designs. With Individuality being more
5. Zhejiang Ming Jewelry Co Ltd
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78
HONG KONG JEWELLERY MARKET REPORT TRENDS
PROSPECTS
The surging growth of retail sales of jewellery in 2013 due
Despite mainland Chinese consumers’ appetite for luxury
to the gold rush formulated a huge base for subsequent years.
jewellery for personal use remaining strong given the rising
Current value growth rates in 2014 and 2015 saw progressive
middle class, attributed to rising disposable income, Hong
decline at 8 % and 5 %, respectively. This is attributable to
Kong’s limited capacity and intense social tensions are likely
several economic factors and societal situations. The massive
to fend off affluent Chinese tourists from visiting. Furthermore,
political protests, named Occupy Central, which took place
sky-high retail rents are pushing up retail prices, and the Hong
during the fourth quarter of 2014 caused a significant
Kong currency value is expected to continue to increase,
decline in tourist numbers and the closure of retail stores in
making the city expensive for foreigners to shop. As such,
affected shopping streets. This has drawn a disappointing
jewellery sales are expected to be lacklustre rising by a value
sales performance in luxury goods, especially jewellery and
CAGR of 2 % at constant 2015 prices over the forecast period.
watches, as affluent Chinese tourists have diverted their shopping destinations to neighbouring countries. Social tensions have arisen between mainland tourists and local
HONG KONG JEWELLERY MARKET SIZE: RETAIL VALUE RSP
residents who criticised Chinese visitors’ misbehaviour in public
(€ MN)
causing disruption to locals’ daily commute. Such factors have discouraged Chinese visitors from planning trips to Hong Kong.
10,000 5,000
COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE
0
Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd was the leading
2013 2014 2015 2016 forecast
jewellery player in Hong Kong, commanding a value share of
8,796.90 7,783.20 6,842.50 5,975.40
19 % in 2014. Chow Sang Sang Holdings International Ltd followed in second position in 2015 with 12 %. Real jewellery is led by these two brands, together with the third largest player, Luk Fook Holdings (International) Ltd, which accounted
COMPANY SHARES RANKING ACCORDING TO RETAIL
for a 10 % value share in 2014. The three brands have very
VALUE RSP
positive images in the minds of mainland Chinese consumers, the largest customer group for real jewellery retail sales
1. Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd
in Hong Kong, and are perceived as creative, stylish and
2. Lao Feng Xiang Co Ltd
unique. Nevertheless, a slowdown in retail sales of luxury
3. Shanghai Yuyuan Tourist Mart Co Ltd
goods affected jewellery in 2014 and 2015, when most brands
4. Chow Sang Sang Holdings International Ltd
recorded a decrease in revenue from real jewellery.
5. Zhejiang Ming Jewelry Co Ltd
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79
CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT
Buyers in September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair
SOUTH KOREAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Jewellery artist Kim JI YOUNG
BREAKING PRECONCEPTIONS about amber Interview by Odilija GUNTORIUTE with Kim JI YOUNG
1)
2)
Congratulations on winning the Amber Trip art jewellery
contest! What does it mean to you?
How did you become a jewellery designer? What/
who pushed you to pursue this path?
First I would like to express my
I have been a writer for a broadcasting
gratitude to the judges and organizers.
company for more than 20 years. I have
My win took me by surprise. While a lot
not always been able to write what I
of other contests look at an artist’s resume
wanted, so I’ve been yearning to express
and experience foremost while judging, I was grateful that the Amber Trip Contest judges placed the most value on the actual piece itself. Amber has had a long tradition of being used
all my thoughts freely. I started studying 1st place in Amber Trip art jewellery contest “My Home” Before sunrise
in Korea and has been loved by our people since
design when I entered graduate school with my husband, who does metal craft. What I like about jewelry as a medium is that despite being small in size, it has the potential to give great joy
time immemorial. However, the downside of that is it is harder to
and touch the hearts of many people. It also has the innate
make progress on the development of amber jewelry because
power to tell an endless number of stories.
of certain expectations placed by tradition and customs. If my
I think what helped motivate me the most as a jewelry
artwork can help people look at amber in a new light, it would
designer is the passion inside of me that I have not been able
mean I made the right choice in transitioning from writer to
to express previously.
jewelry designer, and that thought motivates me to work harder
The piece that won is an extension of the long line of
as an artist. I think amber will continue to inspire my work.
work that I’ve created. I’m constantly thinking about things
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80
think it’s interesting to transform seemingly worthless materials
change, things that are defined differently depending on the
by allowing them to shine or reflect, or combining them with
perspective, and things that refuse to be standardized. I also
nature so they absorb light and transform as if they are part
place an emphasis on the importance of light. When I create,
of nature. I was happy that my work combining amber and
my husband contributes by giving me his scathing criticism
silicon received a good review from 2016 AMBERIF Honorary
and that drives me to be better.
mention and I think I am certain these materials I want to use
3)
will touch and continue to more well known. Where did you study jewellery
7)
design?
I don’t know why, but I’ve been sketching women with
windblown hair and jewelry since I was young, and I’ve been
How did you start working with amber?
I don’t know if you know this, but Koreans loved amber
creating my own pieces since I’ve had my ears pierced. I started
so much that we used to hang large pieces of amber on our
studying earnestly in jewelry academies in Korea and the US, as
clothes instead of buttons. Amber and pumpkin are homonyms
well as at the Kookmin University Graduate School of Design.
in Korean (hobak) so it can also mean the vegetable that you
4)
brew soup or make traditional food with, and it is also a slang How do you think European and Asian art
for an ugly woman. So it’s a material that is interesting to
jewellery differ from each other?
talk about even with just its name. However, amber is not
Hmm... Well, even within European and Asian countries,
the style tends to differ in each in individual country. And in this era of globalization, I think jewelry tends to be shaped by individual art style more than the trends of one’s home country. So it’s a difficult question to answer, but if I must make a distinction, I feel European art jewelry contains a lot of wit and I feel in its core is the pursuit of freedom of form. On the other hand, Asian art jewelry puts great effort into its shapes, and is refined and serious, as if it is trying to improve itself from the inside. Of course, this is simply my own opinion.
5)
Where do you take inspiration for your designs?
As I used to be a writer, I have the habit of trying to express
things in writing first. So when I’m creating jewelry, I am interested in expressing things you can’t see, like emotions, or the type of things you can’t express exactly in words. Thus,
Silver rings
I tend to be contemplative and deliberate when I’m creating art. Nature and the objects that surround me do inspire me,
a very accessible gemstone to a lot of Koreans because
but I put a lot of effort in trying to dwell on and expressing
there is a tendency to think of amber as being a refined,
topics like relationships with people, encounters, emotions and
cultured gemstone or as part of tradition. I enjoy breaking
other intangible things, and things you have to look closely to
preconceptions. When I was a writer, I created the nation’s first
be able to see. And I’m always listening to music. My artwork
Media Education Program where I criticized the true and false
can be seen but also heard. They each have their own sound.
ideas formed about the media. That program won an award
6)
for the best program of the year. I want people to break free With what materials do you like to work the
from their prejudices, have a more flexible mind, and pursue a
most?
wide range of beauty. So the reason I chose amber, the subject
I’ve worked with silver a lot. Silver can be shaped to be
of strong preconceptions in Korea, and created modern art
both soft and powerful, much like a versatile woman who
jewelry with it is because it is an extension of my previous
can transform herself. I also think transparent and artificial
work. I think amber has hidden layers of allure, much like an
materials like acrylics, resin, and silicon are also appealing. I
onion, and I believe it is a gemstone for the femme fatales.!
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81
SOUTH KOREAN JEWELLERY REPORT
that can only be understood by looking closely, things that
JUVELIR EXPO UKRAINE 2016 Olena BELICHENKO, Ph. D., Amber Expert of IAA,State Gemmological Centre of Ukraine Photo by Igor IEMELIANOV, State Gemmological Centre of Ukraine
On May 12–15 Ukraine traditionally held the main forum of her jewellery branch – International Exhibition “Juvelir Expo Ukraine”.
industry in the country, but also in many ways stimulated its
More than 250 companies – leading manufacturers of Ukraine and abroad, well-known jewellery houses and boutiques – participated in the exhibition. The exhibition center “KyivExpoPlaza” assembled together representatives of all segments of the industry – from manufacturers and suppliers of jewellery raw materials, equipment and packaging, to jewellery manufacturers. The exhibition “Juvelir Expo Ukraine” was attended by over 22 000 visitors.
company “Kyiv International Contract Fair” Vladimir Ivanov
development. Nowadays it is the largest exhibition in Ukraine representing the jewellery industry. Opening the exhibition, chairman of the organizing said: “Despite the unstable economic situation in the country, we managed to keep the jewellery industry and exhibition business of the country, all that is regional exhibitions and the Kiev central one – “Juvelir Expo Ukraine”. The leading nationwide jewellery forum, as compared with last year, increased its volumes by 20 % and now covers an area of over 8,000 m2. The exhibition covers
Juvelir Expo Ukraine is an exhibitory forum that combines the two exhibition formats: B2B (activities designed for professionals, business representatives), and B2C (activities designed for end-users). The exhibition presents a wide range of jewelry, accessories and equipment reflecting the most advanced achievements and progressive ideas. Throughout its existence, the exhibition “Juvelir Expo Ukraine” has not only reflected the state of the jewellery
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82
Great interest was a workshop “Safety of the Jewellery
brought together over 250 leading jewellery companies from
Business”. The speakers were: managing partner of the Lawyers
almost all regions of Ukraine”.
Association “Klotchkov and partners” Vladimir Klotchkov and
The exhibition provided the visitors with an opportunity
partner of the Lawyers Association Anastasia Gurska. The
to get acquainted with the trends of jewellery art as well
Lawyers Association has been actively protecting the rights
as purchase all sorts of jewellery from precious metals,
of citizens of Ukraine for two years already.
diamond jewellery and precious stones, exclusive author’s
Ukrainian developers presented their invention – a clever
works introduced by both well-known companies and private
device jewellery pendant SenStone. With help of a unique
jewelers.
device everyone will be able to convert voice recordings into
Especially for “BJnews” readers it should be noted that
text. Thanks to the pendant, it is now possible to record your
the amber industry was represented by State Enterprise
own notes on the move, without need of taking the phone.
“Burshtyn Ukrainy” (“Ukrainian Amber”). Its exposition
SenStone understands keywords and topics and accordingly
traditionally attracted general attention by its wide selection
sorts them in a convenient way. The pendant supports constant
of products presented by articles of gold and silver with
30-minute message recording; moreover, it recognizes 7
amber and exclusive amber souvenirs alike. As concerns other
languages and holds a battery charge for up to 3 days. It is
companies belonging to non-state sector of amber industry
possible to give the gadget various commands, for example,
in Ukraine, they, unfortunately, were practically absent from
write an email or make a blog entry.
this exhibition. As part of the 31-th exhibition “Juvelir Expo Ukraine”, they held a traditional All-Ukrainian Sketch Competition for Best Jewellery Design which determines the jewellery trend development in Ukraine – in fact, it gathers the jewellery designers who get the chance to show their talent and declare itself to the whole country. This year, more than 100 works were submitted for the competition. Announcing the winners of the competition, the Chairman of the competition committee, President of the Jewellery Association of Ukraine Gregory Mazharovsky said: “Such an event as it is today – a very honourable and meaningful for all of the country’s jewellers. The main task of the contest is to find talented capable people. The task of the jury members is to help the promotion of talented individuals in the jewellery expanses of the country. I want to thank the team of the company that
Great interest among specialists and professionals of the
organized the competition “Kyiv International Contract Fair”. I
jewellery branch caused seminars on the history and modern
wish you all success and creative ideas for future work“.
methods of jewellery design.
Every year the exhibition organizers prepare for the
At the master class “How to create a website selling
participants and visitors a variety of seminars, workshops,
jewellery, successfully bring it online and increase sales using
round tables and conferences with the participation and
the power of the Internet and social networks”, the listeners
assistance of the leading representatives of the jewellery
learned about the important components in the network
business.
business.
Not for the first year in the framework of the state’s major
State Gemmological Centre of Ukraine traditionally
jewellery exhibition “Juvelir Expo Ukraine” for its guests and
provided an opportunity for anyone who wishes to use the
participants, the jeweller artist enameller, Master of Arts and
services of gemmological express-laboratory for free and
Crafts Aleksandra Barbalat performs her master classes. Indeed,
check their purchased precious gems.
within the two days of the exhibition everyone could attend the
“Kyiv International Contract Fair”, the company-organizer
master classes and make unique decorations in the technique
of the “Juvelir Expo Ukraine” exhibition, is waiting for the
of hot enamel for themselves and their beloved ones with
participants and visitors on the 15–17 November 2016 at the
their own hand.
“Juvelir Expo Ukraine” (autumn)!
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83
UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
almost all segments of the jewellery market in the country and
UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
Coloured gemstones in Gemworld Munich
UKRAINE’S JEWELLERY MARKET REPORT TRENDS
-13 % volume CAGR in the review period. Ukrainians, restricted
In 2016, many Ukrainians had very strict personal budgets
in means, are likely to remain economical even in the long term
to buy first necessity products such as food and drink,
as consumer income levels are unlikely to return to pre-crisis
medicines, transportation fees, and communal utilities. They
levels in the short term.
economised heavily on a number of products, including jewellery. Jewellery saw a third consecutive year of volume decline (-10 % in 2016 following -34 % in 2015).
UKRAINE’S JEWELLERY MARKET SIZE: RETAIL VALUE RSP (€ MN)
COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE In 2015, jewellery is led by Zolotoy Vek PP with a 12 % retail
4,000
value share, reflecting a three-percentage point increase from
1,000
the previous year. The company’s success is due to its entering
0
both jewellery manufacturing and retailing, and the recent
2013 2014 2015 2016 forecast
rapid expansion of Zolotoy Vek (translated to English as Golden Age) chain, which allowed a much better reach to consumers.
1,219.20 1,218.80 871.00 762.50
As of May 2016, the company has 267 outlets located in 102 cities within Ukraine. The chain Zolotoy Vek was awarded the Best Jewellery Chain in Ukraine by the National Award Retail Awards “Consumer Choice”. In July 2015, Zolotoy Vek
COMPANY SHARES RANKING ACCORDING TO RETAIL
PP entered the silver jewellery segment with the opening of
VALUE RSP
the chain Sribny Vik (translation: Silver Age). It had 130 stores 1. Zolotoy Vek PP
in 44 cities of Ukraine as of May 2016.
2. Kyivskiy Yuvelirny Zavod PAT
PROSPECTS
3. Lvivskiy Derzhavniy Yuvelirniy Zavod DP
In the forecast period, jewellery volume sales are expected
4. Stolychna Yuvelirna Fabryka TOV 5. Zarina Group SA
to grow at a 5 % CAGR, which is a better performance than the
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84
UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
UKRAINIAN AMBER – billion–dollar issues and solutions By Vitaliy PETROVSKY
mining is much higher than mining of semiprecious stones in the Baltic zone.
Today
During the last four years the share of Ukrainian fossils at the Ukrainian amber becomes the main
world market has increased three times. A consistent tendency of
factor that could have a favourable
strengthening of Ukrainian amber at the market of semiprecious
impact on the future of the Ukrainian economy and its
stones is observed. The only and essential shortcomings of the
image. And maybe, it could have a contrary effect: in case
current situation are the ways of mining gemstones in Ukraine,
the criminals win this struggle Ukraine will lose its authority
legalisation of mined minerals at the market.
and the economy will suffer.
The amber industry in Ukraine was in a loss-making
According to the data of geologists at the leading
condition for a decade. It was affected by the deficiency
international institutes and commercial organisations, Ukraine
of money for funding technical re-equipment of the state
has vast natural deposits of this fossil. The peculiarity of this
enterprise. Most mining activities became illegal, the state
situation is that the amber mined at Ukrainian deposits is
share in mining of the fossil decreased dramatically, giving
unique due to its features and quality.
the way to an illegal mining. The emergence of vast quantities
Note: amber deposits and formations in Ukraine occupy
of illegally mined amber in the country caused an explosion
territories comparable in size with the territories of such countries
of sun stone contraband. Underground miners became an
as Belgium and the Netherlands. The size of individual nuggets
important component of amber industry, entire clans and
found at the deposits in Rovenshina and Volyn comprises 10–15
groupings, controlling amber mining and processing and
cm. The finds with the size reaching 18–20 cm are often.
earning huge profits in foreign currency, emerged. The price
The majority of minerals mined in Ukraine are jewellery
of 1 kg of unprocessed mineral at the black market comprises
raw materials, 1–8 cm sized stones. A particularly rich colour
300–400 USD. Amber of a technical quality is sold at a lower
scale increases the value of amber of the Ukrainian origin.
price ranging from 50 to 250 USD. Appearing illegally in the
Stones of more than 20 different colourings are found. The
foreign countries as Poland and China, Ukrainian amber
most valuable are bright yellow stones with shades of green
turns into several thousand dollars priced goods. The loss
and red. Such colour combinations are not found anywhere
of the industry due to illegal actions of shadow miners and
else. Considering the fact, that mineral formations lie at small
contraband comprised more than 250 million dollars in
depths, almost on the surface, profitability of Ukrainian amber
2014–2015.
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86
“I have assigned a service of geology and depths a task to prepare this information, put it on the map and compare it
local authorities. Illegal amber business in the country has
with a cadastral map. It will allow deciding about a possibility
reached the state scale relying on influential patrons at the
of selling special permissions on these territories by open
capital authorities.
competitions. Those who pay more will get a right to mine.
Starting from the beginning of this year the quantity of
And the state will control keeping the ecological, financial
illegally mined amber costing more than 20 million dollars was
and fiscal law and etc. At the moment we are waiting for this
confiscated and the number of detained illegal miners exceeded
map,” – the Minister concluded.
100 persons. According to the Ministry of Internal Affairs, more
Gosgeonedra also supports opening of amber market in
than 10 thousand persons are involved in such schemes.
Ukraine. We suggest providing large investors an opportunity
In the beginning of July the largest special operation
to mine amber. In case of issuing special permissions to perform
to struggle with amber mafia was undertaken. More than
geological research of amber, the market of barbarous amber
300 field investigators of the Ministry of Internal Affairs and
mining will be replaced by a socially responsible user of
Security Service of Ukraine, including more than 40 fighters
subsoils. He could involve the local population in the work.
of Special Forces Alpha, have conducted 123 searches in flats
The security control will be in place. The local people will be
and at workplaces of suspects in creating an organized criminal
able to earn legally instead of risking their lives and freedom
grouping in Rovno region. “It is only the beginning of war with
every day. It was claimed by Nikolay Boyarkin, acting as a head
amber mafia in shoulder straps”, – the head of Security Service
of Gosgeonedra.
of Ukraine Vasily Gritsak has assured. The deputy prosecutor of
Otherwise, in one or two years there will be nothing to
Rovno region Andrey Borovyk and lieutenant colonel of secret
mine there. If investors come, amber prospectors will earn
service department at Security Service of Ukraine in Rovno
slightly less than now. The earnings are assumed to decrease by
region were the first detained suspects in organising a criminal
30 %. However, they could work legally without fear and bribes.
amber mining group. Several bags of amber, equipment for
Today people parish there, fighting and shooting regularly
amber mining and many other things were withdrawn.
take place because there are no rules and laws. And with the
According to the general prosecutor of Ukraine Yury
coming of investors people will get an opportunity: they will
Lutsenko, such operations are only the beginning and they
earn seniority, pensions; taxes will be payed to the local budget.
will be conducted in all regions where amber is being obtained.
AMBER LEGISLATION WHAT SHOULD BE DONE? AND HOW TO LEGALISE
situation is a bill “On Amber” which has been in Verkhovna Rada
The first official attempt to find a way out of the current
The Minister of Internal Affairs of Ukraine Arsen Avakov
of Ukraine since 2010. Many decisions of the Government of
supported the legalisation of amber mining. “The Minister of
Ukraine on the legalisation of sun stone mining in the country
Ecology has already developed a new national conception of
have been adopted today.
regulating amber mining”, – Avakov reported. “The national
The main task which is being solved by the state is
conception suggests to eliminate all those speculators and
legalisation of activities of ‘black miners’. Elimination of
bandits who buy up an illicit amber from the population
monopolies of state enterprises at the major deposits will
and also those who illegally resells it from the market”, – he
essentially decrease the attractiveness of these objects for
explained.
raiders. It will create an opportunity for foreign private investors
According to Avakov, a key state function for purchase and
to enter the market. Currently, more than 3 bills regulating the
certification of amber to sell it abroad should be introduced.
development of amber industry in the country have been
He also noted that the licensing of amber miners in order to
submitted to committees of Verkhovna Rada of Ukraine;
preserve an opportunity of earnings for the local population
effective measures for practical application of a convenient
should be provided.
taxpaying system for local miners have been proposed.
“If it is possible to mine amber legally, the number of
One of these bills, namely 1351–1, is anticipated to be
(mining) crimes will decrease dramatically”, – he added.
adopted in the second reading in autumn; and in general
According to the Minister of Ecology and Natural Resources
Ukraine is supposed to enter the legal market of mining and
Ostap Semerak, the concept of offering amber sites to auction
selling of amber.
is currently being developed.
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87
UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT
More than 60 tons of amber is mined illegally per year by using illegally acquired licenses and connivance of the
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
Official Price for raw amber by
Kaliningrad Amber Combine August 2016
AMBER FROM RUSSIA Regular Amber Piece Size
Price/1 kg – EUR
+4 – 11.5 mm fraction
12
+11,5 mm fraction
60
+14 mm fraction
100
+16 mm fraction
210
2,5 g – 5 g
260
5 g – 10 g
340
10 g – 20 g
650
20 g – 50 g
1,300
50 g – 100 g
1,910
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88
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
The Worldwide Price for
Raw Amber August 2016
AMBER FROM RUSSIA Regular Amber Piece Size
Price / 1 kg – EUR
+5 mm fraction
10
+6 mm fraction
15
+8 mm fraction
40
+11,5 mm fraction
80
+14 mm fraction
130
+16 mm fraction
250
2,5 g – 5 g
350
5 g – 10 g
600
10 g – 20 g
1,200
20 g – 50 g
2,200
50 g – 100 g
3,000
100 g – 200 g
3,800
200 g – 300 g
4,500
300 g – 500 g
5,000
FACTIONS 20–50 G RAW AMBER PRICE CHANGE 2006 FERBRUARY – 2016 AUGUST 4300 3900 3500 3100 2700 2300 1900 1500 1100 700 300
2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 06 08 03 08 03 06
If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: info@balticjewellerynews.com
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
The Worldwide Price for
Raw Amber August 2016
AMBER FROM UKRAINE Regular Amber Piece Size
Price / 1 kg – EUR
2,5 g – 5 g
300
5 g – 10 g
500
10 g – 20 g
1,100
20 g – 50 g
2,000
50 g – 100 g
2,600
100 g – 200 g
3,600
AMBER FROM POLAND Regular Amber Piece Size
Price / 1 kg – EUR
2,5 g – 5 g
400
5 g – 10 g
650
10 g – 20 g
1,250
20 g – 50 g
2,300
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90
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
The Worldwide Price for
Raw Amber August 2016
WHITE ROUND AMBER BALLS Regular Amber Piece Size
Price / 1 g – EUR
5 mm – 7 mm
4
7 mm – 10 mm
6
10 mm – 12 mm
9
12 mm – 15 mm
11
15 mm – 20 mm
17
20 mm and larger
20
COGNAC ROUND AMBER BALLS Regular Amber Piece Size
Price / 1 g – EUR
5 mm – 10 mm
3
10 mm – 15 mm
6
15 mm – 20 mm
11
20 mm and larger
14
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91
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
The Worldwide Price for
Amber Silver 925 Jewellery August 2016
Amber Silver 925 Jewellery
Price/g EUR
Handmade 1,6 Machine made
1,1
AMBER SILVER 925 JEWELLERY PRICE CHANGE AUGUST 2010 – AUGUST 2016 EUR / g 3
2
1
0
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 08 03 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08
Handmade
Machine made
SILVER PRICE CHANGE 2012 AUGUST – AUGUST 2016 EUR per Ounce 40
30
20
10
0
2012 03
08
2013 03
08
2014 03
08
2015 03
08
2016 03
www.quandl.com
If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: info@balticjewellerynews.com
08
Gold Price Montly avarage gold price change 2014–2016
EUR per troy ounce 1200
1100
1000
900
800
2014 2015 2016 10 11 12 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 01 02 03 04 05 06 invest@gold.org
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93
WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT
The Worldwide
INTERNATIONAL AMBER ASSOCIATION REPORT
A NEW AMBER GALLERY in Gdańsk! By Anna SOBECKA
Maria FIJAŁKOWSKA – Egg IAA Gallery during
EXACTLY today,
Heidemarie HERB – Time
one year
Dorota Kos, Maria Fijałkowska (Moja Forma), Prof. Sławomir
ago from
Fijałkowski, Prof. Andrzej Szadkowski and Marcin Wesołowski
a new gallery was opened where
(NAC Amber), along with the works by the following artists:
art and design exhibitions are now held. The
Paulina Binek, Marta Bogusz and Eugeniusz Gowkielewicz,
International Amber Association’s Gallery
Dorota Cenecka (Gin Atelier), Aleksander Gliwiński, Barbara
is located at the very heart of Gdańsk – at
Gronuś-Dutko, Eugeniusz Kreja (Amber Apple), Jacek Ostrowski,
1 Warzywnicza Street.
Andrzej Pacak, Eryk Popkiewicz, Robert Rogała (Amber
The opening of the first exhibition in
Mix), Piotr Wajcht (Galeria Nord Amber Anny Najder), Marta
the new premises was held on 26 March
Włodarska (Amberwood) and Ditta Zimmerman. The exhibition
2015. The guests were welcomed by IAA
also included works by the members of our association
Board members and the first speech
who work abroad: Heidemarie Herb and Cherry Hu (Yinpo),
was given by the president – Mariusz
who submitted sculptures made from Mexican amber. The
Drapikowski. Various pieces of work were
interest in the exhibition and the number of visitors on the
presented during the exhibition, starting
exhibition’s official opening day surprised even the organizers
with the works by IAA founders, including
themselves.
Mariusz Gliwiński (Ambermoda), Giedymin
The Amber and Form companion catalogue was prepared
Jabłoński, Narcyz Kalski and from the largest
for the exhibition and included the descriptions and photos
companies, including Wojciech Kalandyk’s
of all the presented pieces. Hopefully, this catalogue will
Art 7 or Adam Pstrągowski’s S&A, and
become a valuable document and an attractive presentation
especially the works by IAA supporters:
of exceptional works presented during the exhibition.
Andrzej SZADKOWSKI broach–Double
Sławomir FIJAŁKOWSKI – Bloody Cherry
Giedymin JABŁOŃSKI object – To climb
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94
INTERNATIONAL AMBER ASSOCIATION REPORT Mariusz GLIWIŃSKI – Magic Box
Paweł KACZYŃSKI ring
Another exhibition – Amber Around the World, which was
be not only visited by the IAA members and their friends but
opened on 28 August 2015 – was organized by Janusz Fudala
that it will also be widely known, open and attractive to the
and Anna Sado in cooperation with the Polish Goldsmithing
local community and tourists alike.
Artists’ Association (STFZ); it was an exceptional presentation
With the help of the exhibitions organised in Warzywnicza
of the works by modern artists who mostly work with Baltic
Street, we want the new IAA head office to become an
amber; they also used other fossil resins as creative material
important amber promotion centre, and the jewellery made
for this exhibition: Dominican amber and Sumatran amber.
from this remarkable gemstone to be associated with high
Visitors were fascinated with the wonderful works of Jacek
quality, originality and good design. Our aim is to make
Byczewski, Danka Czapnik, Sławomir Fijałkowski, Paweł
people – the members of our association and all the others
Kaczyński, Wojciech Kalandyk and Maciej Rozenberg (Art 7),
who are interested in these unique fossilized resins – feel
Andrzej Kupniewski, Sława Tchórzewska and Marcin Tymiński.
welcome at the IAA Gallery.
The last official exhibition opening of 2015 – The Amber
This year, which marks twenty years of the IAA, the main
Chamber exhibition prepared by IAA member Heidemarie
goal of the Board and the Gallery is and will be to organize
Herb – was held at the IAA Gallery on 4 December. The
an anniversary exhibition, and I sincerely invite all those who
exhibition was open until the end of January and included
are gathered here to visit it.
artists from Austria, the Netherlands and Germany, some of whom, after some persuasion from the curator, worked
Emilia KOHUT necklace
with this unique material – Baltic amber for the first time in their lives. Some artists whose works were presented during the exhibition have already used this material before and already had links with Gdańsk. The works of Heidemarie Herb, Beate Klockmann and Philip Sajet or Gisbert Stach and Petra Zimmermann are well known by the local audience. Other artists: Elisabeth Defner, Christiane Förster, Herman Hermsen, Helfried Kodré and Piotr Skibic were also charmed by the properties of amber, which is why they created particularly inspiring and meaningful pieces. During the first year of the International Amber Association’s Gallery, Warzywnicza Street had no shortage of important and, in my opinion, informative events. I hope
The last occasion to see this exhibition will be Exhibition closing event – Friday, the 26th of August, 8 pm.
that the coming years, as well as the newly prepared exhibits and catalogues, will make the IAA Gallery an integral part of the cultural landscape of the city of Gdańsk, and that it will
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95
ANCIENT FLOWERING PLANT WAS BEAUTIFUL – but PROBABLY POISONOUS Press release by OSU College of Science
Researchers today announced in the journal Nature Plants the discovery of the first-ever fossil specimens of an “asterid” – a group of flowering plants that gave us everything from the potato to tomatoes, tobacco, petunias and our morning cup of coffee.
But
these two 20–30 million-year-old fossil flowers, found perfectly preserved in a piece of amber, came
from the dark side of the asterid group – they belong to the genusStrychnos, which ultimately gave rise to some of the world’s most famous poisons, including strychnine and curare. Poisons that would later find their way into blow-gun weapons, rat control, Sherlock Holmes stories and the movie “Psycho” appear to have had some of their ancestral and biological roots in the prehistoric jungles of what’s now the Dominican Republic, researchers say. “The specimens are beautiful, perfectly preserved fossil flowers, which at one point in time were borne by plants that lived in a steamy tropical forest with both large and small trees, climbing vines, palms, grasses and other vegetation,” said George Poinar, Jr., a courtesy professor in the College of
Asterid amber fossil, this is the first fossil ever discovered of the “asterid” family of flowering plants, preserved in amber from 20–30 million years ago
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96
experts on plant and animal life forms preserved in amber. “Specimens such as this are what give us insights into the ecology of ecosystems in the distant past,” Poinar said. “It shows that the asterids, which later gave humans all types
80,000 SPECIES
of foods and other products, were already evolving many millions of years ago.” Asterids, the researchers noted in this study, are among Earth’s most important and diverse plants, with 10 orders, 98
vines, mostly in the tropics. They are still being studied for
families, and about 80,000 species. They represent about one-
medicinal properties, such as for the treatment of parasitic
third of all the Earth’s diversity of angiosperms, or flowering
worm infections and even as drugs to treat malaria.
plants.
The discovery of these two fossil flowers, researchers said,
And one ancient genus, which has now been shown to be
suggests that many other related plant families could have
inherently toxic, existed for millions of years before humans
evolved in the Late Cretaceous in tropical forests. Their fossil
appeared on the planet.
remains, however, still await discovery.
“Species of the genus Strychnos are almost all toxic in
The co-author of this study, Lena Struwe, is an expert on
some way,” Poinar said. “Each plant has its own alkaloids with
plants in the strychnine family, Loganiaceae, and is a plant
varying effects. Some are more toxic than others, and it may
biologist at Rutgers University.
be that they were successful because their poisons offered some defense against herbivores. “Today some of these toxins have been shown to possess
Top of flower
useful and even medicinal properties.” As natural poisons that humans came to understand and use, two extracts from plants in the Strychnosgenus ultimately became famous – strychnine and curare. Strychnine had practical uses for decades as a pesticide, and was often the deadly component of rat poison. But it also captured the imagination of writers, and was used by Norman Bates in the movie “Psycho” to kill his mother and her male companion. In small doses, it can increase mental and muscular activity. Curare has an even stranger history. Sir Walter Raleigh may have first encountered it in 1596 when he observed poison arrows in South America, where natives also developed the poison in blowgun darts to paralyze hunted prey. Curare was featured as the murder weapon in one Sherlock Holmes novel, and in lower doses it has been used as a muscle relaxant in surgery. There are now about 200 species of Strychnos plants around the world, in forms ranging from shrubs to trees and woody climbing
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97
INCLUSIONS
Asterids, the researchers noted in this study, are among Earth’s most important and diverse plants, with 10 ORDERS, 98 FAMILIES, and about
Science at Oregon State University, and one of the world’s
A M B E R INCLUSIONS
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OUR JEWELLERY IS ‘’AMBITIOUS’’ An Interview with Wojciech KALANDYK by Anna SADO
www.balticjewellerynews.com
100 Cupprum necklace
1)
PERSONALITY
We realise our own passions and ambitions and at the same time we fulfil our consumers’ xpectations – this is the secret of the Art 7 company’s success. The company that has been using avant-garde design in amber jewellery for over 30 years.
At the Amberif trade fair in March this year, Art7 showed the BLACK DRESS collection
that consisted of 18 pieces that were more than just jewellery. What are you going to surprise the buyers and visitors of the Ambermart in August? With other designs that belong to this experimental collection – the BLACK DRESS is constantly developed: although it evolves around the idea of “black amber”, it is really diverse in its design. We will show selected older models, the ones that have been most popular among the consumers, such as the CONCLAVE necklace – the winner of the Mercurius Gedanensis 2014 award, or SEVENSPACES from 2010, which is
Wojciech KALANDYK
a tribute to the architectonic trend of Daniel Libeskind. The products in this collection are individual – each of them has been created after a long consultation of the whole team and a
Ribnitz-Damgarten, which we opened in May this year. We
few weeks of work. It is a flagship collection. However, we try to
were even a bit surprised by the reactions, as the Germans are
find similar aesthetics in our commercial collections – the latest
considered to be traditionalists in the field of amber jewellery.
ones of which have been inspired by spatial geometrical forms.
Contact with the public and the unique energy that is created
2)
then are really motivating. We feel similar emotions during Art7 is amber avant-garde – is it difficult to
“releasing” our jewellery. Under the slogan “Amber in the
surpass yourself?
Public Space” we present our collections in such places that
It’s certainly not easy (laughs). Though, so far we’ve been
will enable the people who don’t visit trade fairs or are not –
quite successful at it. We find it especially motivating to know
yet? – clients of jewellery galleries, to see them. Their reactions
that what we do is well received by consumers. Recently,
are especially valuable to us, and conversations with them are
we’ve had a chance to see that at the vernissage of the ART7
inspirations for the next collections. We know what women
BLACK DRESS exhibition at the German Amber Museum in
want and we try to offer it to them.
Lanta rings
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101
4)
Art7 used innovative design at the time when most amber companies seemed not
understand the meaning of that word yet... It wasn’t exactly the case that we decided to use design
PERSONALITY
because at some point it had become important. For years, we have been constantly developing a line of experimental jewellery simultaneously to developing the more commercial lines, which also originate from our experiments with design, but on a smaller scale. It is a long-term process, the resultant of many factors rather than a conscious decision that: “from now on we will use design”. It is also a result of our approach to jewellery and creativity of the people who create our company. We have always wanted to develop, explore, and be open to other fields – art, architecture, music. In other words, it is a different level of communicating with the consumer of our jewellery. We also want to leave some kind of heritage, it isn’t just profit calculation.
LUL necklace
5)
Liquid black ring
How do you evaluate that decision today?
Well! We have managed to create a kind of thought space
that allows us to devote to design. In this way we realise our own passions and ambitions, and at the same time we fulfil our consumers’ expectations. And they have started to appreciate good design in jewellery – last year we observed an increased interest in the experimental lines, not only BLACK DRESS, but also other designs, which were created many years ago. BLACK DRESS has fulfilled its role of the flagship collection and has become our showcase. Thanks to it the Art7 company has become more recognisable, in our country and abroad – only recently we have received invitations to exhibitions in Kaliningrad, Dalian in northern China and ESKILSTUNA in Sweden. It’s hard to think about a better form of appreciation...
3)
I understand that women’s opinions are important, however I get the impression that
you design jewellery that is first of all in accordance
BLACK DRESS is a collection that has been built for the
with your sense of aesthetics: far from typical amber
last 5 years at the Art7 company in Gdańsk. It currently
commercialism, and addressed to the more demanding
consists of 19 unique necklaces and rings, inspired by
consumer.
the unique structure of black amber. The name of the
I don’t agree that our jewellery is difficult in reception, it is
collection refers to the famous “Little Black Dress” by
simply “ambitious”. We do what we feel in our souls, but clients’
Coco Chanel: the designers at Art7 aim to rise amber,
reactions are also very important to us. Combining those two
which is still underrated, to the rank of luxurious jewellery,
things rarely happens in business, and it’s even rarer in the
through a unique project, simple design, as well as non-
jewellery industry. It looks like we are really lucky to be able
standard cuts and the use of precious materials.
to successfully realise our concept: to create jewellery that appeals not only to us, but also the consumer.
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CARTOON
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Gold Silver Watch Date: 3–6 July 2016 Venue: Helsinki Exhibition and Convention Centre, Helsinki, Finland http://www.messukeskus.com info@finnexpo.fi
Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Date: 13–17 September 2016 Venue: Sep 15–19 AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Kong SAR www.jewellerynetasia.com salesjgf-hk@ubm.com
JUNWEX Date: 1–5 February 2017 Venue: ExpoForum Convention and Exhibition Centre, St. Petersburg, Russia eng.rjexpert.ru overdeas@restec.ru
Copenhagen Jewellery and Watch Show Date: 19–21 August 2016 Venue: Lokomotivvaerkstedet, Copenhagen, Denmark www.cphjs.dk info@cphjws.dk
JUNWEX Moscow Date: 28 September – 2 October 2016 Venue: All Russian Exhibition Center, Moscow, Russia www.restec.ru/junwex overseas@restec.ru
Signature Mumbai 2017 Date: 3–6 February 2017 Venue: Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, India www.iijs-signature.org signature@gjepcindia.com
Gold Silver Time Date: 29 September – 1 October 2016 Venue: Warsaw, Poland www.zlotosrebroczas.com w.gontarska@mct.com.pl
The Jewellery Show Date: 5–9 February 2017 Venue: Birmingham, United Kingdom www.jewelleryandwatchbirmingham.com sales@thejewelleryshow.com
Intergem Date: 30 September – 3 October, 2016 Venue: Messe Idar-Oberstein, Idar-Oberstein, Germany www.intergem.de office@intergem.de
Inhorgenta Munich Date: 18– 21 February 2017 Venue: Messe Munchen, Munich, Germany www.inhorgenta.com info@inhorgenta.de
Ambermart – International Amber Fair Date: 25–27 August 2016 Venue: Amber Expo, Gdansk, Poland ambermart.amberexpo.pl amberif@mtgsa.com.pl The Norwegian Gold & Watch Trade Fair Date: 26–28 August 2016 Venue: Norway Trade Fairs and Thon Hotel Arena www.gull-og-ur-messe.no info@gull-og-ur-messe.no Japan Jewellery Fair Date: 1–3 September 2016 Venue: Tokyo Big Sight Exhibition Center, Tokyo, Japan www.japanjewelleryfair.com info@japanjewelleryfair.com International Jewellery London Date: 4–6 September 2016 Venue: Olympia, London, United Kingdom www.jewellerylondon.com ijl.helpline@reedexpo.co.uk Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair Date: 7– 11 September 2016 Venue: Impact Exhibition and Convention Center, Bangkok, Thailand bangkokgemsfair.com info@bangkokgemsfair.com Iberjoya Date: 7–11 September 2016 Venue: Feria de Madrid, Madrid, Spain www.ifema.es/madridjoya_01 madridjoya@ifema.es JOGS Fall Gem & Jewelry Show Date: 8–11 September 2016 Venue:Tucson, USA jogsshow.com info@jogsshow.com
Istanbul Jewelry Show October Date: 13–16 October 2016 Venue: Istanbul Fair Center (CNR Expo), Istanbul, Turkey www.ubmrotaforte.com info-rotaforte@ubm.com
Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair Date: 1–4 March 2017 Venue: AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Kong SAR www.asiafja.com salesafj-hk@ubm.com
Gemworld Munich 2016 Date: 28–30 October 2016 Venue: Munich Trade Fair Center, Munich, Germany munichshow.com exhibitor@munichshow.com
XII International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” Date: 15– 18 March 2017 Venue: Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva, Vilnius, Lithuania www.ambertrip.com ad@ambertrip.com
Jeweller Expo Ukraine Date: 17–20 November 2016 Venue: Kyiv Expo Plaza Exhibition Center, Kiev, Ukraine www.jewellerexpo.kiev.ua jewel@kmkya.kiev.ua
Istanbul Jewelry Show Munich Date: 16–19 March 2017 Venue: Istanbul Fair Center (CNR Expo), Istanbul, Turkey www.ubmrotaforte.com info-rotaforte@ubm.com
Mineralien Hamburg Date: 9–11 December 2016 Venue: CCH – Congress Center Hamburg, Germany mineralien-hamburg.de lara.meske@hamburg-messe.de
AMBERIF International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones Date: 22–25 March 2017 Venue: Gdansk, Poland www.mtgsa.com.pl amberif@mtgsa.com.pl
VICENZAORO 2017 Date: 20–25 January 2017 Venue: Fiera Di Vicenza, Vicenza, Italy www.vicenzaoro.com info@vicenzafiera.it
HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show Date: 2–6 March 2017 Venue: Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong SAR www.hktdc.com/fair/hkjewellery-en exhibitions@hktdc.org
www.balticjewellerynews.com
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MAJOR JEWELLERY TRADE FAIRS
MAJOR JEWELLERY TRADE FAIRS in August 2016 – March 2017
AMBER TRIP PARTY
Yan HUO YAN and Giedrius GUNTORIUS
FLASHBACKS
from
AMBER TRIP PARTY
Amber Trip team: Liudmila, Jurgita, Olga, Izidorius, Jurgita, Jarekas, Klotilda and LÄ—ja Abdullrazaq JARKHI, Giedrius GUNTORIUS and Abdulaziz ALSHAMALI
WEN PING YU, Vilia FEHRN, Soren FEHRN and Li DAI Jean ORSERO
Peter H. ERNST
Natalija ILTSUK, Vladimir STARTSEV and Rūta CIKANAVIČIENĖ Jassim BOUHAMAD
Paweł MARKOWSKI, Łukasz KĘPIŃSKI and Adam KUCHARSKI Ahmad ALI
Inui SHIGEFUMI and Koinuma TAKASHI
Balashov VADIM and Kholopova MARIYA
Astrid FOURNEL and Robin FOURNEL
Salvatore CONTE and Grzegorz WYDRA
XIV INTERNATIONAL BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW
“AmberTrip”
MARCH 15–18, 2017 €
P i Casino
WC
VILNIUS, LITHUANIA
Tel. +370 618 535 38 info@ambertrip.com www.ambertrip.com
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