Baltic Jewellery News (August 2016) No. 31

E XC LUS I V E M AG A Z I N E F O R T H E J E W E L L E R Y B US I N E S S I N T H E B A LT I C SE A R E G I O N

September 2016 (31)

FASTEST WAY TO THE BALTIC SEA REGION!

Europe‘s top show for gems & jewellery in autumn.

n i o 6! iss r a t 0 1 t m st th 2 n’ e g i 0 Do r r ril 3 to p bi A h i e: ex d l i n a de

Meet the international Gemworld in Munich.

www.gemworldmunich.com

The

stock market downturn and the economic downturn in China, the permanent danger of the next wave of the financial crisis, the unsolved issue of Greek

debt, war in the Near East, the foreseeable and unforeseeable Brexit consequences, the weak rouble, the strong Swiss franc and American dollar, the drop in oil price... – the list

of negative factors influencing the consumption of luxury goods, and consequently the condition of the jewellery and amber industries, is really long. It is a difficult time and requires the ability to react instantly to the market changes – and even better, precede the consequences of the events that are yet to happen. This, however as reality has shown, is not really that easy.

As the Chinese no longer want to buy so many, or such expensive products with Baltic amber – it’s hard to imagine the losses that the producers, who still have a lot of the highest quality products stored in their warehouses, will incur. Swiss watch producers are facing a similar predicament, their sales have been increasing on the Asian markets, especially the Chinese. Now, however, they have to accept the fact that they are unlikely to find new customers on those markets. Both industries will face a fall from a great height – they have never had such fantastic turnover as in the last few years.

The industry appears to be coming back to a realistic size. Today, more and more Chinese, fearing the anti-corruption investigations by their government and facing the weakening economic situation, opt for more discrete decorations. The situation is similar on other markets, especially in Russia where as a result of the weakening rouble, gold is not in a very good situation any more. Many refined watch brands have already reacted to this trend and supplemented their product line with models in attractive prices – over €10,000 will buy a manufacturer produced watch, which was unheard of a year ago. Things look similar in the jewellery industry, where there are more and more dainty designs at very moderate prices.

Those who are able to quickly spot the newest client preferences are the ones who will win.

Anna SADO

September 2016 (31)

10 BREXIT

Gold is fulfilling its classic role as a safe haven asset after Brexit vote. Purchases of gold coins were already up sharply in the months running up to the vote. This has had a positive impact on gold miners and further increased the attractiveness of gold.

30 RUSSIA

Kaliningrad Amber Combine realises its responsibility for the current situation in the industry. First Economic Forum of Amber Industry will be an open platform for discussion of all up-to-date issues and searching for new ways of industry development in general.

44 POLAND

Polish government intends to supress illegal amber mining and by doing that is unfortunatelly planning to introduce some rather far-fetched and unfavourable changes for the amber jewellers concerning the rules of amber mining in Poland.

68 LITHUANIA

The amber market had been growing over the past 6 years, but perhaps this growth has already stopped and we would return to normal business conditions like in other industries, when business grows and drops little by little.

86

In Ukraine more than 60 tons of amber is mined illegally per year by using illegally acquired licenses and connivance of the local authorities. Illegal amber business in the country has reached the state scale relying on influential patrons at the capital authorities.

78

Younger people in China are looking for more individual expression nowdays. Traditional, generic designs do not satisfy the market anymore – what does it mean for amber industry?

UKRAINE

CHINA

Baltic Jewellery News / September 2016 (31) Paplaujos st. 5–7, LT-11342, Vilnius, Lithuania Tel. / Fax: +370 5 2608497; E-mail: office@balticjewellerynews.com Editor / Anna Sado / E-mail: info@balticjewellerynews.com Designer / DANA SMITIENE, Translators / VERTIMU GURU, CIRCULATION 3 000

Distribution in the whole Baltic Sea Region.

Copyright: Contents of “Baltic Jewellery News” are copyright. ISSN 2335-2132 Reproduction of material in part or in whole is not permitted in any form without the written authorization of the publisher. The editorial office is not responsible for the content of advertisements and for the accuracy of the facts presented by the authors.

We invite all those whose interests are related to our goals to join our project. With the help of various perspectives and opening of new discussions the jewellery business in the region can become clear and more beneficiary for everyone.

Thank you for the cooperation!

CONTENT Topicalities 4

Easrern European jewellery market – trend and

10

Gold surges after Brexit becomes reality

74

The catalogue of ships

76

The moment when a piece of jewellery meets the

Estonian Jewellery Report

prospects

right owner…

German Jewellery Report

Chinese Jewellery Report

12

Germany’s jewellery market report

14

Intergem 2016 draws in visitors with unique

78

China jewellery market report

expertise

79

Hong Kong jewellery market report

Swedish Jewellery Report 16

Sweden’s jewellery market report

18

Sara Malm. HDK – academy of design and crafts.

South Korean Jewellery Report 80

Breaking preconceptions about amber

82

Juvelir expo Ukraine 2016

84

Ukraine’s Jewellery market report

86

Ukrainian amber – billion-dolar issues and solutions

Ukrainian Jewellery Report

Selected Graduate

Finnish Jewellery Report 20

Talking with Tiina Rajakallio

Russian Jewellery Report

Worldwide Jewellery report

22

To Karl Faberge’s anniversary

26

“Prussky miod”: contemporary ethnics

30

The First Economic Forum of Amber Industry –

89

The Worldwide Price for Raw Amber

One of the largest industry discussion platforms

92

The Worldwide Silver Price

was created in Russia

93

The Worldwide Gold Price

34

Russia’s jewellery market report

38

Festival Silver in Legnica – 2016

40

Amber wedding anniversary after 44 years of

88

Combine

International Amber Association Report

Polish Jewellery Report 94

Poland cut of its own amber?

46

Jubinale 2016

50

Appealing products and designs – Ambermart

52

Gala amber look trends & styles 2016

55 GeoAmber – amber that attracts

A new amber gallery in Gdansk!

Inclusions

marriage?

44

Official Price for raw amber by Kaliningrad Amber

96

Ancient Flowering plant was beautiful – but probably poisonous

Personality 100

Our jewellery is “Ambitious”

Lithuanian Jewellery Report

Other

56

Enchanted by a dress made from amber

104

Cartoon

60

“Metallophone – one of the kind

105

Major Jewellery Trade Fairs

64

“My Home”

106

Flashbacks

66

Nature morte – Art Jewellery Competition

68

Exhibition “Amber Trip” – is a platform for deals and market analysis

Latvian Jewellery Report 72

Conversation with a cloud

Jewellery by SAVVY

TOPICALITIES

Photo by Katarzyna JANKOWIAK www.PicaPica.pl

EASTERN EUROPEAN JEWELLERY MARKET – TRENDS AND PROSPECTS

By Kseniia GALENYTSKA, Research analyst at Euromonitor International

Kseniia GALENYTSKA

According

to Euromonitor Inter­ na­ t ional, in 2016 the

jewellery market in Eastern Europe reached retail value sales of US$7.8 billion, which constituted only 2 % of global jewellery sales. Thus, Eastern Europe is currently ranked as fifth of the seven regions worldwide in total value terms. At the same time, the per capita spend on jewellery in Eastern Europe was US$23.7 in 2016, which was close to half the worldwide average, albeit eight times lower than the average spending of inhabitants of North America – the region with highest per capital consumption of jewellery. Such a difference in spending on jewellery between the regions is dictated by the gap in disposable incomes and living standards.

In 2016, the jewellery market in Eastern Europe declined by 4 % in constant US dollar terms. This performance was attributed to the deep economic and political crisis in the largest jewellery markets – Russia and Ukraine – which shrank by 6 % and 13 % in constant US dollar terms respectively.

At the same time, in Poland and Romania, the jewellery market benefited from positive economic developments and experienced value growth of 4 % and 1 % respectively in constant US dollar terms in 2016.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

4

PER CAPITA SIZE AND GROWTH OF THE JEWELLERY

have broadened their silver collections, making them more

MARKET

fashionable and innovative and combining them with various precious and semi-precious metals, stones and colourful

4

enamels, experimenting with sizes and forms. Overall, sales 17,86

of jewellery made of silver increased by 6 % in Russia and by 17 % in Ukraine in current US dollar terms to comprise 39 % and

2

38 % of total retail value jewellery sales respectively in 2016.

0 16,79 -20 -15 -10 -5 5 10

30,64

made of gold is on the rise. Positive economic developments as

-2 -4

18,52

In contrast, in Poland and Romania demand for jewellery

-6 -8

 Russia

well as strengthening consumer purchasing power benefited

 Ukraine

the sales of golden jewellery in both countries. In Romania

 Poland

gold mostly gained popularity in small-sized items, such as

 Romania

earrings and rings. In 2016, the share of gold in jewellery grew by about 11 % in retail value current US dollar terms

Growth for 2016

to comprise 49 % of total jewellery sales in 2016. Wedding

Note: data is stated in retail value sales, US$, fixed exchange rate, constant terms. The size of the bubble with data labels on top indicates the per capita consumption of jewellery in the respective markets.

rings are mainly responsible for such a high share and are expected to benefit the position of gold in the future as well.

Source: Euromonitor International

In Poland gold jewellery is seen as an attractive investment: while saving was becoming less profitable due to low interest

SILVER IS GAINING MOMENTUM IN RUSSIA AND UKRAINE, WHILE GOLD IS ON THE RISE IN POLAND AND ROMANIA

rates, consumers tended to invest more in goods that hold their value, such as gold. It is popular to buy gold jewellery on such occasions as christenings, communions, engagements and weddings in Poland. Overall in 2016 gold strengthened

Russia and Ukraine have both been experiencing a

its position by 1 % in current US dollar terms to comprise

severe economic and political crisis in recent years. Declining

46 % of retail value sales of total jewellery.

consumer purchasing power and overall economic uncertainty forced people to focus on basic spending, economising on

Positive economic developments as well as strengthening consumer

purchases of jewellery, which is known to be a non-essential good. However, people have not completely turned away

PURCHASING POWER BENEFITED THE SALES of golden jewellery in POLAND andROMANIA.

from jewellery as it still remains a popular present for various occasions, and they also continue buying it to treat themselves. At the same time, the crisis changed the jewellery preferences of consumers in Russia and Ukraine, who switched from traditionally popular gold to silver, as gold became unaffordable for many consumers due to the unrealistically

ARE DIAMONDS STILL A GIRL’S BEST FRIEND?

high unit prices resulting from currency devaluation. In

Diamonds have traditionally been gemstones that are

addition, if, previously, Russians and Ukrainians were choosing

combined mainly with gold and platinum, the two precious

gold jewellery to highlight their social status, currently, people

metals of the highest value. Thus, the final price of real jewellery

are paying more attention to fashion trends and jewellery

articles with diamonds has generally been very high and

design, opting for silver collections. Moreover, the quality of

affordable only to a limited segment of consumers. The position

real jewellery made from silver tends to be quite high and it

of diamond collections in the last few years has been supported

is often virtually impossible to differentiate between white

by the culture of presenting a diamond engagement ring at

gold and silver. The combination of gold and silver is gaining

the time of a marriage proposal. Such a tradition came from

momentum in Russia and Ukraine, and, while articles are

Western Europe and is actively spread by the leading jewellery

basically made from silver with small elements produced of

manufacturers in Eastern European countries. In 2016, Poland

gold, it still creates the image of the jewellery piece containing

was the country with the highest share of diamond collections

white and rose gold, but at much lower prices than items

within total jewellery, comprising 19 %, with sales having grown

made entirely from gold. As a result, real jewellery producers

by 2 % compared to 2015 in current US dollar retail value terms.

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5

TOPICALITIES

Avarage annual growth 2011–2016

6

TOPICALITIES

In Romania diamonds are recognised as a profitable investment,

various occasions. Home-made costume jewellery and local

and diamond collections sales grew by 27 % in current US dollar

niche brands have been increasing in popularity in recent

terms in 2016 to reach 9 % of total real jewellery retail value

years as they offer exclusive jewellery with individual designs.

sales. However, the share of diamond collections in Romania

Overall, the perception of costume jewellery has changed

still remains the lowest among Eastern European countries.

with time in Russia and Ukraine – if costume jewellery was

In Russia and Ukraine the reverse trend was observed – real

initially considered as having little intrinsic value and being of

jewellery with diamonds became too expensive for many

poor quality, it is now considered as being an indispensable

consumers in recent years due to falling consumer incomes,

accessory for every fashion-driven woman. In Poland costume

devalued national currencies and, as a consequence, rising

jewellery is actively advertised by celebrities who present

purchasing prices for imported raw materials. In Russia retail

such products in mass media in order to create a positive

value sales of diamond collections declined by 17 % in 2016 in

personal image. Overall in Eastern Europe social networks

current US dollar terms, while in Ukraine retail value sales of

such as Facebook, Instagram or Vkontakte are becoming an

real jewellery with diamonds dropped by 16 % in current US

important promotion channel for costume jewellery, especially

dollar terms. Consumers in Russia and Ukraine are shifting their

for young and hand-made brands.

preferences towards cheaper coloured natural and synthetic

BRIGHT PROSPECTS FOR JEWELLERY MARKET IN EASTERN EUROPE

stones, with topaz, cubic zirconia and amethyst among the most popular and most affordable. The addition of Swarovski crystals and Swarovski zirconia to jewellery has been extremely

Gradual economic recovery in the largest jewellery markets

popular in recent years. The brand name plays a crucial role

of Russia and Ukraine will, to a great extent, drive the growth

in tempting consumers to opt for jewellery with elements

of total sales of jewellery in Eastern Europe in the long-term

produced by well-known and appreciated brands. It should also

forecast period. At the same time, positive developments

be noted that producers are replacing large carat diamonds

in smaller markets such as Poland and Romania will also

with diamond placers, with the combination of small diamonds

contribute to the overall increase in the jewellery market in

being seen to give a similar visual effect at a much lower price.

Eastern Europe by a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 2 % over 2016–2021 in constant US dollar terms. It should

COSTUME JEWELLERY AS A RESPONSE TO FASHION TRENDS

be noted that the forecast growth will be stronger than the review period’s equivalent CAGR of 0 % in constant US dollar

Demand for costume jewellery is dictated by fashion

terms. The strengthening of consumer spending power in

trends and is stimulated by the growing supply of these

Eastern European countries is expected to boost demand

products in Eastern Europe. Costume jewellery has become an

for more expensive branded jewellery in the long term.

indispensable part of women’s daily image and the opportunity

Costume jewellery is forecast to outperform real jewellery –

to frequently replace items to suit various apparel styles is

while costume jewellery is expected to record a CAGR of 3 %,

highly appreciated by Eastern European consumers. In Russia

real jewellery will experience a CAGR of 1 % in constant US

and Ukraine costume jewellery was performing better than

dollar terms over the next five years. This trend is explained

real jewellery in 2016. The category benefited from offering

by the growing availability of costume jewellery in Eastern

more affordable types of jewellery, which particularly appeal to

Europe. In addition, consumers are expected to evolve the

young, fashion-conscious consumers. Moreover, an increasing

culture of wearing different types of jewellery, not only fine

number of new players – from huge international companies

jewellery, following Western trends, with the aesthetic look of

to small, home-made producers – is appearing every year

products rather than the materials they are made of prioritised.

in this segment. These companies are paying increased

Furthermore, internet retailing will be another key factor in

attention to the quality of their jewellery and following all

driving the development of costume jewellery, owing to the

of the latest fashion trends by creating special collections for

easier comparison of prices and products available online.

Gradual economic recovery in the largest jewellery markets of

RUSSIA and UKRAINE will, to a great extent, DRIVE THE GROWTH OF TOTAL SALES OF JEWELLERY IN EASTERN EUROPE IN THE LONG-TERM FORECAST PERIOD. www.balticjewellerynews.com

6

CHART 1: THE GOLD PRICE IS BACK TO ITS AUGUST 2014 LEVEL* US$/oz

TOPICALITIES

1,400 1,350 1,300 1,250 1,200

GOLD SURGES after Brexit becomes reality

1,150 1,100 1,050 1,000

Jan Jul Jan Jul Jan 2014 2014 2015 2015 2016 *The latest price as of 24 June 2016 is based on the AM LBMA Gold Price.

Source: Bloomberg, ICE Benchmark Administration Ltd., World Gold Council

Report by GOLD WORLD COUSIL Gold’s performance vis-a-vis other assets has been even

With Britain voting to exit the European Union, we expect to see strong and sustained inflows into the gold market driven by the staggering level of protracted uncertainty that investors now face.

The gold price surged to US$1,313.85/oz on 24th of June, up 6 % from23rd of June, providing investors with a much-needed safe haven. Sterling is trading at a 31-year low and world equity markets have plummeted. The Bank of England has said that it stands ready to take whatever action is necessary, a mantra that is likely to be repeated by other central banks. In practice, this could mean interest rates move further into negative territory in parts of the world, another positive for gold. Central bank action has already capped the gain in other safe haven assets, with the Swiss National Bank intervening early this morning.

more impressive. Sterling has fallen to a 31-year low against the dollar and world stock markets have tumbled. The FTSE100 and Euro Stoxx were down 5 % and 10 % respectively on 24th of June (Chart 2).

CHART 2: UK EQUITIES, EUROPEAN EQUITIES AND THE BRITISH POUND (INDEX 01/01/2016=100) Index level

105 100 95 90 85 80

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun 2016 2016 2016 2016 2016 2016

■ FTSE 100

GOLD SURGES AS BREXIT BECOMES REALITY

■ Euro Stoxx 50

■ GBPUSD

Source: Bloomberg, World Gold Council

It is difficult to find an event to compare this to. While The gold price surged to US$1,313.85/oz on 24th of June,

trading blocs have broken down before, none have been as

on the AM LBMA Gold Price, up from US$1,265.75/oz the day

sizeable and important to the global economy as Europe.

before, and the highest level since 2014 (Chart 1). It traded as high as US$1,358.54/oz in Asian trading hours, as news of a

After Brexit vote gold price suges

likely Leave victory started to emerge. This has had a positive

TO THE HIGHEST LEVEL SINCE 2014!

impact on gold miners, too: UK listed gold miners were up 10–20 % on 24th of June.

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GOLD FULFILS ITS CLASSIC SAFE HAVEN ROLE

and a downgrading in economic growth forecasts in June had already seen expectations of a US Federal Reserve interest rate the European Union will likely push expectations out even

performing exactly as the many investors that bought it in the

further. And some central banks may push interest rates further

run up to the referendum will have hoped. We expect to see

into negative territory, increasing the investment challenges

strong and sustained inflows into the gold market driven by the

for buy and hold investors like pension funds. Indeed, after the

intense market uncertainty that now faces the global markets.

vote we could see an entirely new class of gold investor emerge.

Gold ETF holdings have also been increasing sharply, a trend

Central bank actions will also increase the attractiveness of

we expect to see accelerate, as both retail and institutional

gold vis-a-vis other safe haven assets. The Swiss National Bank

investors re-allocate funds to gold (Chart 3). Purchases of gold

has already intervened in currency markets on 24th of June to

coins by small retail investors, which were already up sharply in

stop the appreciation of the Swiss franc. Gold is unique in

the months running up to the vote, should accelerate further.

this respect: it does not carry intervention risk. As a high quality, liquid asset, we believe gold will provide investors with a hedge against market uncertainty, economic, political and intervention risk.

CHART 3: GOLD-BACKED ETFS ALREADY BENEFITED FROM FLIGHT-TO-QUALITY FLOWS IN JUNE, AND WE EXPECT

There are no precedents for a country leaving Europe,

MORE. GLOBAL GOLD-BACKED ETF FLOWS BY MONTH

but other systemic risk events offer some insight into the role that gold can play in wealth preservation during extreme

Tonnes

stress events (Chart 4). During the European sovereign debt

250

crisis gold rose by 12 % as fears of a widespread meltdown

200

increased. There is a reason why the world’s central banks

150

hold so much of their national wealth in gold – you can see

100

that in no uncertain terms today.

50 0

CHART 4: GOLD TENDS TO OUTPERFORM IN PERIODS OF

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun 2016 2016 2016 2016 2016 2016

SYSTEMIC CRISIS

*As of 23 June 2016.

Source: Bloomberg, Respective ETF providers, World Gold Council

Return

Level change

60 %

60

There has already been a sharp uptick in activity on the

40 %

40

Shanghai Gold Exchange. Trading volume spiked, reaching

20 %

20

346t compared to a daily average of close to 100t since the

0%

0

start of the year.

-20 %

-20

We could also see an increase in central bank purchases of

-40 %

-40

gold. Sterling is one of the world’s few reserve currencies, but

-60 %

-60

has fallen to a 31-year low. Moreover, S&P Global Ratings on 24th

Black LTCM Dot-com 9/11 2002 Great Sove- Sove Monday crisis bubble rece- Rece- reign reign

ssion ssion debt debt

crisis I crisis II

of June said that UK bonds could lose their AAA credit rating.

NEGATIVE INTEREST RATES TO SUPPORT GOLD DEMAND

■ S&P 500 return

■ Commodities return

■ Level change in VIX

■ US Treasuries return

■ Gold return

Returns during periods of systemic risk. Persian Gulf War I: Q3 1990, LTCM: Q3

As well as market uncertainty, gold is supported by

1998, Dot-com meltdown: Q1 2001, 9/11: Q3 2001, 2002 recession: Q2/Q3 2002, US Credit Crisis: Q4 2008/Q1 2009, European sovereign debt crisis: Q2 2010.

monetary policy actions. If central banks are forced to

Source: Bloomberg, World Gold Council

implement supportive measures they will likely come in the form of further extraordinary actions, new rate cuts or delays in planned hikes. Worse-than-expected US labour market data

www.balticjewellerynews.com

11

TOPICALITIES

hike pushed out to the end of the year. Britain’s departure from Gold is fulfilling its classic role as a safe haven asset and

GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Coloured gemstones in Gemworld Munich.

GERMANY’S JEWELLERY MARKET REPORT TRENDS

traffic for retailers, which of course impacts sales opportunities

Jewellery value sales recorded further growth in 2016

and potential growth of jewellery specialists. Customer

showing a positive development for costume jewellery

frequency in shopping centres and city centres decreased

and fine jewellery alike. Main drivers for growth were the

significantly over the review period and is expected to continue

increased demand for premium and luxury products, precious

to decline. As jewellery sales are still mostly store-based, often

materials including gold and diamonds and individualised

spontaneously, the impact is noticeable and expected to

or customisable products. The knowledge of owning an

intensify over the forecast period.

exclusive or even unique piece of jewellery, often with a special message or meaning integrated in the design, created enough added value for German consumers to accept higher average

GERMANY’S JEWELLERY MARKET SIZE: RETAIL VALUE RSP

unit prices. Value sales especially of fine jewellery therefore

(€ mn)

registered another year of decent growth in 2016.

4,000

COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE

1,000

The competitive landscape registered some movement

0

within jewellery in Germany in 2015. With strong growth in

2013 2014 2015 2016

forecast

outlet numbers and even higher focus on consumer demands and new product launches, Pandora Jewelry GmbH was

3,920.70 3,871.80 3,905.90 3,931.10

able to grow by 44 % to reach an overall value share of 6 % and rise to first position. The company not only surpassed Douglas Holding’s Christ and Cartier on the way to the top,

COMPANY SHARES RANKING ACCORDING TO RETAIL

but also registered the fastest value growth compared to its

VALUE RSP

competitors in German jewellery.

1. Richemont SA, Cie Financière

PROSPECTS

2. Pandora A/S

Far more moderate development is predicted by many

3. Christ Juweliere & Uhrmacher seit 1863 GmbH

members of the jewellery trade organisation for jewellery

4. Fossil Group Inc

volume and value sales in Germany in the future. The main

5. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA

issue envisaged by many of them is a reduction of consumer

6. Gale teksto Euromonitor International logo

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12

Od 25 lat wykonujemy biżuterie ze złota i srebra ze swoich i powierzonych projektów. talefon 48618870014 tel kom 48602283206 e-mail;biuro@srebroproducent.pl www.srebroproducent.pl

ul. K. Przerwy-Tetmajera 39, 42-207 Częstochowa, Poland tel. +48 508 298 398•info@brizart.pl•www.brizart.pl

GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

INTERGEM 2016 draws in visitors with unique expertise Report by INTERGEM PRESS Office Pendant crystallized Agate with Rhodolite / Stefanie Dingel,Veitsrodt

Idar-Oberstein

– It is the pioneering business platform for the worldwide gemstone community. “The unique expertise of the INTERGEM is based on an outstanding concentration of internationallyrenowned companies, specialists and institutions in the immediate area,” declares the fair’s Managing Director, Kai-Uwe Hille. Amongst other features, the fair, which is held this year from 30 September to 3 October, underscores this position with an informative and exciting support and trade programme.

For example, there is the Living Legends exhibition, in which

Vintage Opal / Richard Hans Becker, Idar-Oberstein

internationally-renowned local artists such as Manfred Wild, Tom Munsteiner and Helmut Wolf display their masterpieces.

Another presentation, entitled “Gemstone Carving”, places a spotlight on the art of the engraver. They too are masters of a craft for which Idar-Oberstein enjoys a worldwide reputation.

A further example of the importance of Idar-Oberstein and the fair as its calling card is the “Forum Design”, where jewellery and gemstone designers display their visions.

In addition, experts at the INTERGEM provide interested visitors with pioneering know-how and practice-oriented solutions for all questions regarding the processing, evaluation and marketing of gemstones. For example, the Deutsche Gemmologische Gesellschaft – German gemmological society is staging a workshop on the “Practical recognition of synthetic diamonds”. Because distinguishing between synthetic stones and diamonds is one of the major challenges facing the diamond sector at this time. The gemmological examination is based on several stages, involving microscopy, UV luminescence

Gemstone Carving / INTERGEM 2016

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14

“Best of cutting, quality and design” / Karl Faller, Kirschweiler

and spectroscopy. These methods, together with tabletop devices developed specifically to employ them, are presented exclusively at the INTERGEM 2016.

The centre of excellence at the show also features exciting themes, including Nsaio6 – new jewellery from Idar-Oberstein. Under this motto gemstone and jewellery students and graduates at the Idar-Oberstein campus of the Trier University of Applied Sciences present selected works at the INTERGEM to mark the 30th anniversary of the course. On the stand of BBS Technik Harald-FisslerSchule Idar-Oberstein third year goldsmith apprentices present their latest pieces, under the motto “A trade in hand finds gold in every land”.

Above all, however, the INTERGEM remains a fair where leading cutters and traders can offer exclusive gemstones that are scarcely available on the world market. “This density of beautiful and scarce items is certainly unique,” says Kai-Uwe Hille. “I don’t know of any other event in Europe that offers such a concentration of rare, highquality gemstones and gemstone jewellery.” One focal point this year is the range of Paraibas, a much-soughtafter tourmaline variety that is becoming increasingly hard to find – but which is included in the ranges of numerous exhibitors. The support programme at this year’s INTERGEM also focuses on the Paraiba tourmaline.

Dr. Claudio Milisenda, Managing Director of the German Foundation for Gemstone Research (DSEF), will present a paper on the Paraiba tourmaline and use a spectrometer to reveal the copper that gives the stone its attractive colour. www.intergem.de

INTERGEM 2016: September 30th – October 3rd, 2016 For more information please visit: › ww.intergem.de

SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

CU jewellery aim at meeting the demand from consumers that are increasingly concerned about the environment and that are looking for sustainable solutions – could this be a key to Swedish market?

SWEDEN’S JEWELLERY MARKET REPORT TRENDS

designs, they are likely to sell well. In addition, players in

Jewellery is undergoing an increasing influence from

Sweden are predicted to expand their branded store networks

so-called fast fashion, thus this trend is becoming increasingly

and invest in internet retailing and social media, a role that

important for fine jewellery. Moreover, the ongoing global

is becoming increasingly important. Yet fine jewellery’s

personalisation trend has raised consumers’ interest in charms

performance is highly dependent on the whole economic

and other customisable jewellery. Increasing individualism

situation and fluctuating gold price.

has also influenced manufacturers: both international and domestic companies opened more of their branded stores in the country and invested in their online shops in 2015 in

SWEDEN’S JEWELLERY MARKET SIZE: RETAIL VALUE RSP

order to be visible and recognised. Moreover, the Sweden

(€ mn)

economy has rebounded after a year of erratic performance, with positive prospects and consumer confidence on the rise.

500

These two factors were the primary factors behind the solid

250

performance by jewellery in 2016.

0

2013 2014 2015 2016

forecast

COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE

400.30 430.40 450.70 463.20

Iduna AB remained as the leading player in jewellery in Sweden in 2015 with a 19 % value share. The company mostly benefits from its retail chain stores Albrekts Guld, Hallbergs Guld and Guldfynd which are well-known and one of the oldest

COMPANY SHARES RANKING ACCORDING TO RETAIL

brands in jewellery, thus gaining the trust of local consumers.

VALUE RSP

PROSPECTS

1. Iduna AB

The rise in individualism was notable in 2015 and it is

2. Schalins Ringar AB

expected to keep personalised and customisable jewellery

3. Näsland & Jonsson Import AB

to the fore over the forecast period. Thus, if brands are able to

4. Bergendahl & Son AB

interest the customer through their meaningful and creative

5. Pandora A/S

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SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

SARA MALM. HDK – ACADEMY OF DESIGN AND CRAFTS. Selected Graduate 2016

By HDK – ACADEMY OF DESIGN AND CRAFTS, Gothenburg, Sweden

SARA HAS GONE DEEP INTO INVESTIGATING MATERIALS, SHAPES AND COLOURS SHE FELT AN ATTRACTION TO, AND OPENED THEM UP WITH AN EYE FOR DETAILS AND POSSIBILITIES. With meticulous

and careful work with material, form and technique Sara has throughout her master exam shown a sharp sense of skill, knowledge and artistic maturity. – Klara Brynge

Jeweller Sara MALM with her BA-work.

SARA MALM, IN LINE WITH

The shape has been the framework for the whole project.

I believe in my hands. They made this work possible. When

Initially a safe zone that I would have to expose with more time

I trust them magic arises. But I need to give them tools and feed

and courage. See how far it would take me and what it wanted to

them with materials. I need to set limits and to lend them time. Also

teach me. I found out that I don’t need to have all the answers, I

not judge them to hard, but still be critical at the right moment.

don’t always need to know why. I am grateful for all the working

The hardest part is to make them all work together.

hours it has given me and excited about the next ones. If I had found the answer, I would have lost the magic and the ambition

TEAMWORK

to go further on.

To make body, time and materials collaborate at the same time. And in that same moment invite the process to take place.

SATISFACTION

When all these components are in the same room I smell a result.

The last part of the story. When the technical parts clicks

A result that is grounded on choices I’ve made from day one. It’s

together, the colors pops in the way I want and the line puts an end

not been about taking the right decisions. It’s been about let every

to the material, the jewelry tells me that it’s satisfied. It’s finished,

part of the work agree together.

it’s saturated and ready to go on to a wearer. My chapter is done,

I base my work on three materials.

I have put all my thoughts, crafts, knowledge and experience that

Wood, metal and leather. They carries different qualities that

was needed for it to be finished. It’s not up to me to judge whether

feel comfortable in my hand. I look upon the materials as flat. Based

it is a good story or not, but for sure I can tell you that it is true.

on my experience they give me different resistance and abilities

And soon its time for the next chapter.

when I hold them in my hands. They challenge me in separate ways.

Sara Malm

I pull, fold, stretch, bend and divide. Reduce and enlarge.

Connect. Disconnect. Look for a context with a body or a part of a body. Listening to the shape, hear what it has to say and conveys

started her studies at HDK in 2010. Throughout

her studies at BA and MA Sara has thoroughly and deeply

it to the viewer through my hands.

investigated and developed her artistic language and interest

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Ring: Untitled, 2016 Silver, plywood. 5 x 2 x 2 cm From series: IN LINE WITH Bracelet: Untitled, 2016 Silver, plywood. 7 x 8 x 3 cm From series: IN LINE WITH

Bracelet: Untitled, 2016 Silver, plywood. 9 x 8 x 3 cm From series: IN LINE WITH

Bracelets and Rings from the series IN LINE WITH, 2016

in how form meets function and how jewellery and objects

program the students work in indivdual projects with

communicates and interacts with the body and the space we

tutoring with professor and teachers, both permanent

move in in everyday life. She plays in her work with a great

and visiting teachers and tutors from outside the school.

sense of humour and thoughtfulness. Sara has gone deep

The Jewellery Art programmes work in close connection with

in to investigating materials, shapes and colours she felt an

the ceramic and textile art programmes in an open atmosphere

attraction to, and opened them up with an eye for details and

where students cross share knowledge and experiences over

possibilities. With meticulous and careful work with material,

the fields.

form and technique Sara has throughout her master exam

The Jewellery Art programme and the MA programme in

shown a sharp sense of skill, knowledge and artistic maturity.

craft at HDK – Academy of Design and Crafts is a part of the

The projects during the BA program in jewellery art at

Faculty of Fine, Applied and Performing Arts at University of

HDK are focused on giving the students a broad knowledge

Gothenburg.

in the field as well as an indivdual identity in their artistic work to develop further, either with studies at advanced level or on their own. In the MA program the students are incouraged to deepen their investigaitons. In the master

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SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Necklace: Untitled, 2016 Leather, plywood. 20 x 18 x 3 cm From series: IN LINE WITH

Necklace: Untitled, 2016 Silver, leather, plywood. 30 x 20 x 3 cm From series: IN LINE WITH

Tiina Rajakallio, jewellery artist, was born in 1979 in Jyväskylä, Finland. Rajakallio got her BA from South Carelia Polytechnic (today Saimaa University of Applied Sciences) in 2005 and her Masters degree in 2008 from Konstfack, Stockholm, Sweden. Rajakallio’s work has been exhibited around the world. She belongs to the Finnish young generation of contemporary jewellery artists, who explore and work with different materials.

Rajakallio’s studio is located in Lappeenranta at the premises of the Craft Association of South-East Finland.

Tiina RAJAKALLIO Necklace from the series Unho, 2012 mixed media Photo: Tiina RAJAKALLIO

Talking with TIINA RAJAKALLIO

By Antonio ALTARRIBA

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20

trunks and branches waiting to be rethinked and transform

pieces, there is a connection with material, weight and so

into objects. For Rajakallio, the working process is an important

on. You can hang them in a wall, but I prefer to see them

passage in the artistic activity, since she explores materials, how

weared. I perceive my series of works as a continuum, a chain

interviewed her at the studio, where she showed me pieces of her work in progress, especiallly new experimentation

How would you define your work?

Perhaps I’m not the right person to define my own

work, but my works are to be weared, there are body related

they behave, what they express and what the

that links one thing to another, without the

artist can say through them, whisperings of

former step I would not be where I’m. The

an intimate conversation. Her works in wood

themes deal mostly with the western way of

and birch bark, very common materials in

life people live, lately I have been thinking

Finland, wood in house building and bark

much about people’s relationship with

was traditionally among other things used

nature. Is nature seen from an economical

for making Summer shoes for men working

projection, is it romanticized or are we fully

in the fields, contribute in a way to develop

lost?

contemporary jewellery. The artist creates a

4)

metamorphosis parting from the skin of the tree, the bark, to a second skin the final object. Rajakallio transforms wood into a wearable piece of jewellery, an ornament with a strong an intimate

From the series White Moments, 2015 leather, different types of wood, cotton thread Photo: Tiina RAJAKALLIO

story. The American writer Denis Johnson

How did you become interested in bark / wood ?

A few years ago I participated in a 3D

course organized by Saimaa university of Applioed Scinces and I got fascinated by wood.

(Munchen, 1949), wrote that a soldier

Birch bark is a traditional material, I

should never think, therefore for the soldier

think must learn more about it. Now my

the prohibition of thinking is a relief. This is

studio is full of wood, of bark and also I

not the case of Rajakallio, whose work gives

started exploring marquetry. It seems a

us tools to awaken our thirst for thinking,

carpenters workshop! In the following

our awareness for being human. It is clear

series “Unho” which in Finnish language

that an artist is not a soldier.

means oblivion, the main material I use

1)

is wood, either worked by hand or with Why did you wanted to be a

machine tools. In “Unho” I reflect on

jellewery artist?

For me it was normal, because when I

was young I used to draw and paint a lot. At the age of sixteen I made my own jewells,

forgetfulness as a part for remembering Brooch from the series White Moments, 2014 wood, leather, cotton thread, steel Photo: Mika AHONEN

then I went to a craft school and I learn to

and I feel consoled about the thought, that also trees has a way to remember what they left behind, their annual rings, sometimes thick or thin.

work with several materials, but especially I

body proportions seemed to me rather good to work with,

5)

although sometimes I dreamed about larger objects.

time experimenting with materials and ideas. Time will show

2)

the traces of the past!

liked jewellery work. My first contact with jewellery art was at the South Carelia Polytechnic during my studies. Also human

What is the direction in which your work is going?

This year I have a working grant, so I can dedicate all my

Is the art making process or the final work what

6)

interests you?

Both, I’m very fond of writing down my thoughts and ideas

before I start working, but I don’t draw so much anymore,

Do you discuss your work with other colleagues?

It would be nice to discuss one’s works with colleagues,

quite often I start sketching straight on the material. Many

but usually nobody has time for it. The best feed back I get is

times things may change in the studio, but it is life, in other

from exhibition openings and seminars, there people come

words, it is a lively process.

ready to talk and discuss.

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21

FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT

with veneer. In the studio there is a lot of wood and small tree

3)

I

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

TO KARL FABERGÉ’S ANNIVERSARY The Kaliningrad Regional Amber Museum until September 4 runs an exhibition of works of the Third All-Russian competition of author’s jewelry and stonecutting art.

Worker of Culture of the Russian Federation. “This year the event is dedicated to the 170th anniversary from the birth of Carl Fabergé. Such decision of organizers of a competition – is a tribute to the creative heritage of masters of firm Fabergé, desire to contribute to the glorification of the traditions of domestic art”.

Nominations of a competition of 2016: “Artistic Heritage”, “Metaphor”, “Use of National Ornament”, “My Russia”, “The Best Work from Amber”. The main award of the competition – the Grand Prix. Artists‘ skills were evaluated by professional jury, consisting of leading art critics, experts in the field of jewelry and stone-cutting art of Russia. The Moscow jeweler Gennady Lentsov has been elected as the chairman of jury.

“Such competitions are undoubtedly important, since they motivate young authors to improve their skills”, considers Galina Gabriel, a member of the jury, Head of the Department of Art History of of St. Petersburg State University of Culture and Arts, Ph. D. in Art history, Associate Professor. “To organize a biennale of jeweler and stone-cutting art in Kaliningrad – is a remarkable idea. Here many interesting works, performed with great skills, with use of new technologies are presented.

By Irina KLIMOVICH Photos – Igor SOSEDKO

The

Perhaps, the guys lack relaxedness of mindset, prospection yet, but there is an obvious desire to study, professionally grow”.

Irina Toropova, Deputy Amber Museum Director, believes

exposition presents about 500 works by 150

that it is important for artists of the Kaliningrad region to get

artists from 13 cities – Yekaterinburg, Kazan,

acquainted with the work of colleagues from other regions

Kaliningrad, Kostroma, Makhachkala, Nizhny Tagil, Rostov-

of Russia.

on-Don, Rybinsk, St. Petersburg, Togliatti, Tula, Ufa, Yaroslavl.

“It is not only an exchange of traditions, artistic experience,

The project also included a seminar with the participation

but also an opportunity to see other approach to materials,

of experts in the field of jewelry and lapidary arts, education

technicians, technologies”, she says. “It is a unique situation

program for students of the Kaliningrad Art and Industrial

which influences both the artist, and the viewer, forming

College and other educational institutions of the Kaliningrad

personal features of perception of the world”.

region, young artists, jewelers and stone-cutters.

The biennale of author’s jeweler art is held in Kaliningrad

“SUCH COMPETITIONS

since 2012. As interest in stone-cutting skill increases in

are undoubtedly important,

modern world art and its influence on development of jewelry

SINCE THEY MOTIVATE YOUNG AUTHORS TO IMPROVE THEIR SKILLS”, considers

enhances, the organizing committee has made the decision to add the formulation “and stone-cutting art” to the name of competition.

Galina Gabriel, a member of the jury, Head of the Department of Art History of of St.

“Preservation of cultural ties with other regions of our country is very important for the Kaliningrad region which is behind two borders from Big Russia”, considers Tatyana Suvorova, Director of the Museum of Amber, Art Critic, Honored

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22

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Grand Prix. “For highly artistic solution of the subject “My Russia” and technical perfection of execution”: Volkov Nikita Andreevich, Kostroma – for earrings “Spinning Wheel”, 2015 (brass, phianites; molding, mount, gilding)

Winner in the category “My Russia”: Kurtayev Alibeg Akhmedovich, Makhachkala – for Easter egg “Pearl”, 2016 (silver of 925 fineness; sawing, engraving, oxidation, gilding)

Winner in the category “Artistic Heritage”: Vaganova Anastasia Aleksandrovna, Kostroma – for earrings “Heavenly Portal”, 2015 (brass, nickel silver, copper, phianites, molding, filigree, gilding)

Winner in the category “The Best Work from Amber”: Yuritsyn Alexander Petrovich, Likhanov Vladimir Pavlovich, Kaliningrad – for “Landscape No. 21”, 2016 (amber, wood, carving)

Winner in the category “Use of National Ornament”: Bozhenkova Elizaveta Alexandrovna, Kostroma – for earrings “Boyar,” 2015 (brass, jewelry inserts, molding, cold enamel, gilding)

Winner in the category “Metaphor”: Egorova Svetlana Yurevna, Yuritsyn Alexander Petrovich, Likhanov Vladimir Pavlovich, Kaliningrad – for composition “Sky Ship”, 2015 (amber, brass, mahogany, stone carving, intaglio, ornamental casting, wood carving)

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RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

“PRUSSKY MIOD”: Contemporary Ethnics We are living in the region that has changed many landlords. The only remaining thing has not changed – the solar stone – Prussian honey and Baltic soul. It came to be a bridge among nations, cultures, generations, and an inexhaustible source of creative inspiration.

as well initiated by the artist and stylist Aleksandr Yuritsyn and my daughter, goldsmith-jeweller Talya Egorova. At first, our work made its way into a range of unique ethnic pieces of jewellery. After several years, “Prussky Miod” gathered more than 20 different specialists, and now we are no longer a pilot project, like at the beginning of our way, but rather a true artistic association – with its workshops, sales network, educational base, and an exhibition fund.

For you, is it creative work or business?

We know the concept “creative industry”, which unites the both things. For example, you’ve got is an interesting idea, you embody it with the maximum use of your creative potential.

This final product, with all conceptual importance, is in demand in the market and the sale of it brings quite tangible material benefits. Business for the sake of business is not for me. I am a certified jeweller, having acquired a classical education in the Russian jewellery school and I can earn money within my specialty, yet, I prefer doing so by keeping to a certain philosophy and principles.

Let’s talk more about ideas and principles.

Somebody would call the concept of our art anyone as “stylish ethnics.” I would call it a “history game.” Proceeding from the heritage of northern Europe, which comprises the culture of northwest Russia, the Baltic States, Slavic and Scandinavian motifs, we try to read it from the modern

The artist-jeweller and designer Lana EGOROVA

perspective. We try to make every article tell some story,

“P

which would awaken an echo of ancient folklore and a fairy russky Miod (“Prussian Honey”)” is the artistic association

tale character made up by the author of “Prussky Miod.” This

of Kaliningrad artists, whose key message from their

kind of myth-making is our inspiration.

area of work became love for native land – the amber land, and

Talking about our principles, “Prussky Miod” adheres to

its main symbol – the solar stone. This may be why “Prussky

some fixed rules. First, natural materials only. Leather, linen,

Miod” is perceived as a brand of Kaliningrad Region in many

cotton, wool, metal (mainly, brass), ceramics, glass, paints,

parts of Russia and abroad, where the association has already

and, of course, only natural amber. Yes, we are green! The

arranged its expositions.

second rule: handiwork. The warmth of an artist’s hands is what

Lana Egorova, head of the association “Prussky Miod”,

breathes life into the article. We stand up for traditional crafts.

the artist-jeweller, designer, member of the Creative Union

A product undergoes a full cycle here, on-site, from sketch

of Artists of Russia, co-founder of the Kaliningrad Amber

to sale. All products are works of authorship, each item is

Craftsmen’s Guild”:

unique, hand-made, and customised. Our artists have invented

Lana, where did “Prussky Miod” begin?

a unique style of “Prussky Miod”, which is recognisable today

“Prussky Miod” was founded in 2010, whereby few people,

not only in Kaliningrad, but also in “mainland” Russia, and

keen on similar ideas, met and decided to join together to

now, after running several major shows in Europe – beyond

harness the creative energies. Apart from me, the project was

Russia, too. Moreover, the style is in demand: at this moment,

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27

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

for example, we have got an offer from the Government of

region. We are the only ones who hold similar workshops in

Kaliningrad Region to paint several facades in the centre of

Kaliningrad Region, so, they are very popular among tourists.

I cannot but ask the traditional question about your

the city in the spirit of “Prussky Miod.” We have become the

plans.

unofficial brand in the region!

Our principles are aligned with missions, which, as we

We are planning to expand production, which largely

believe, fulfil social functions. This is the preservation of

depends on the skills and, oddly enough, on the ability to

traditions and culture, the creation of new traditions in art,

buy the stone at a reasonable price. Up to date, price of raw

and the formation of our region’s cultural identity. Further,

amber grew by 500–600 %, and it has become a big problem

it is the creation of a harmonious and safe environment for

for Kaliningrad artists working with amber.

people, preservation of crafts and personal involvement of an

With regard to training – the picture is more positive here.

artist in the production, popularization of amber as a symbol

Participation in various educational projects, exhibitions, the

of our land, as well as increasing public awareness, especially

mentioned Artists’ Festival – all of this is a chance not only to

among children and youth. This concerns corporate social

“be seen”, but also to see enthusiastic people who could join

responsibility, which is so much talk now.

us to know the master’ secrets of craft and to become artists of

What is amber for you?

“Prussky Miod.” Here, like elsewhere, “It’s all about the people.”

Amber is the main character in all articles of “Prussky

The association also plans to continue and expand

Miod,” you can find it almost everywhere, even in paintings

exhibition activities. In particular, we would like to present

and notebooks. For us, it is more than just a basic raw material.

all the focus areas of the association at the “Amber Trip” Show

It is a symbol of our land, the cornerstone of continuity of

in Vilnius. Lithuanian visitors of the show are familiar with a

cultures and generations. We find inspiration in amber legends

number of our articles, and we will be happy to introduce you

of different nations and delight in the variety of colours and

to all areas of the activities of “Prussky Miod.”

uniqueness of each sample. When processing the stone, our

Over the past six years, you have come a long way.

artists try to preserve and highlight its natural individuality.

Right, and we have some achievements. We are constantly

What does “Prussky Miod” produce else, apart from

engaged in exhibition activities, we have participated in many

jewellery?

Russian and international festivals, fairs, and contests, where

To date, the association’s production activities comprise

we became prize-winners and awardees. We have held several

such areas as jewellery, souvenirs, leather articles, textiles,

association exhibition, and that consequently allowed us to

knitwear, ceramics, glass, graphics, linen clothing, authors’

found our own exhibition fund and, thus, to enter the world

toys. In addition to production, we are also actively developing

exhibition space. In 2014, we won the regional stage of the

awareness-raising activities.

All-Russian contest “Together we are Russia.” In autumn of

The Artists’ Festival, which we hold every year at the

the same year, we represented Kaliningrad Region at the

Insterburg castle in Chernyakhovsk, has become a good

International Cultural Heritage Show in the Louvre, Paris. In

tradition. In summer, during that week, children and adults may

2015, we were again invited to France, this time – to the world’s

attend workshops and try hand in any traditional crafts – from

largest show “Mineral and Stone,” which is held every year

pottery to jewellery. This year, we decided to make the festival

in Alsace. I would like to thank for the opportunity to visit

more thematic, professional, allowing to dive deeper into one

the high-status show the Ministry of Culture of Kaliningrad

of specialties. First and foremost, I am going to supervise an

Region and, of course, our good partners – the Kaliningrad

open-air jewellery workshop, the result of which will be an

Amber Museum.

exhibition of the Festival participants’ works.

Nonetheless, in my opinion, an even more important fact

Last year, we opened our own salon in the city centre,

is that we are associated with Kaliningrad Region in many parts

exactly named “Prussky Miod.” The salon is unusual: it is

of Russia and abroad. We have often heard such statements,

decorated in our unique style; apart form the selling exhibition,

“Kaliningrad? Not Germany, but not yet Russia. There is little to

it includes a small exposition, a mini-museum, an interactive

show.” We do have something worth showing, our region has

area where visitors can play the role of an amber jeweller,

ancient and rich heritage. We also have a modern and authentic

process a piece of amber using the ancient machine, and

cultural image, which is closely intertwined and, sometimes,

assemble an article of jewellery in ethnic style. We arrange

becomes a link between the Russian and European cultures.

such workshops for small groups of tourists right into the salon or, by special orders, take road-shows to anywhere in the

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28

Tomasz Skubaczewski / 93–204 ŁODŹ, POLAND / Tel. (+48) 603881897 / E-mail: tomski@autograf.pl

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

THE FIRST ECONOMIC FORUM OF AMBER INDUSTRY One of the largest industry discussion platforms was created in Russia The epoch of great changes has come to amber industry. It is time when many things are going to be changed or even developed anew. During the last years a lot of experiments related to pricing, selling of raw materials, developing of the Russian school of processing of the sun stone, seeking for new domains of application of amber and etc., have been implemented. Today the amber market is in transitional state and many people wait what will happen next.

First Economic Forum of Amber Industry, which will be held on 6–8 of October in Svetlogorsk, Kaliningrad region, has been decided to become such platform.

The First Economic Forum of Amber Industry of the Russian Federation will become one of the largest industrial discussion platforms. Among main topics – the latest trends in mining and processing of amber, new ways of its application and new markets.

Mikhail ZATSEPIN, Director General of joint-stock company “Kaliningrad Amber Combine”: “Today amber industry is one of the ‘exclusive’ industry branches in Russia as

Kaliningrad Amber Combine realises its responsibility

well as an important element in economies of other countries,

for the current situation in the industry. Being a unique

in particular in the Baltic states. The main idea of the Forum is to

enterprise in global terms, it understands that the fate of

show the many-sidedness of industry which at the same time forms

both individual processing companies and the world amber

several levels for development including historical and cultural

community as a whole depends on business actions and

heritage, industrial potential, development of the enterprise and

decisions of its management.

its place in the modern economy of Russia and other countries.

Having understood that issues and current challenges

The Global aim assigned by the Amber Combine to the Forum

can be solved only by joint efforts, Kaliningrad Amber

is to become a platform for positioning of an amber brand and

Combine decided to develop an open platform for

cultural message aimed at changing the general public perception

discussion of all up-to-date issues and searching for

of the industry into civilised and competitive industry capable to

new ways of industry development in general aimed at

compete with other branches of economy”.

representatives of business structures and governmental

Forum events have been developed basing on the global

authorities of federal and regional levels as well as amber

standards of holding high level forums. The organiser of the

industry stakeholders from Russia and partner countries. The

event is joint-stock company “Kaliningrad Amber Combine”,

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30

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT the support is provided by the Government of Kaliningrad

programme. Thematic blocks will be developed in accordance

region and state corporation “Rostekh�.

with the most significant development directions of the

The Forum will include three essential components:

industry. Among them are such themes as technological

a business programme, an exhibition and a cultural

development of mining and processing of raw materials,

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RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

EXHIBITION An exhibition will serve a platform for the effective interaction between state, business and end-users. An exposition is aimed to familiarise the participants with Russian and foreign technologies and goods of amber industry. The three-day exhibition lasting from 6 to 8 October 2016 will provide visitors with the opportunity to learn about new trends and share experience. The exhibition will be open for all interested persons.

All directions of amber industry activities have been considered in exposition themes: manufacturers of equipment for industrial processes; manufacturers of amber goods; cultural-historical theme; and development of tourism.

CULTURAL PROGRAMME Cultural events planned before and during the Forum are aimed at attracting the general public – people who are interested in amber goods, arts, history, and jewellery. A new approach to the sun stone will be presented to participants of the cultural programme. Events of the cultural programme will allow learning about amber history and interesting facts, finding out more about its significance and application in various domains in Russia and abroad.

Several events have been planned as a part of the entrance to new markets, taking a leading position in the

cultural programme: photography exhibition in Moscow

world in manufacturing amber goods, personnel development,

and Svetlogorsk, art installations during the Forum, concerts,

development of tourism and cultural aspects, global

excursions, a special programme for the Forum participants,

positioning of amber as a national brand and etc.

closed events for the Forum participants and etc.

UNITING THE PARTICIPANTS OF AMBER MARKET

BUSINESS PROGRAMME OF THE AMBER FORUM A two-day business programme of the Forum combines such formats as plenary sessions, thematic round tables

Today all interested market participants need dialog,

and expert sessions dedicated to up-to-date issues and

constant contact and sharing opinions. Besides, it is necessary

development trends of amber industry and includes workshops

to attract new players, in particular in the domain of promoting

and master classes, open lectures on the essential topic of the

amber in internal and external markets, as well as forming a

Forum – “The Development of Amber Industry: Yesterday,

new perception of it.

Today and Tomorrow”. The business programme is focused

Kaliningrad Amber Combine invites all interested

on several key issues: development of amber industry,

persons to take part in the First Economic Forum of Amber

technologies and new markets, historical and cultural heritage

Industry and find optimal solutions for the development

of amber brand, amber industry in the context of geo-cultural

of amber industry together.

Venue and date of the forum and exhibition: 6 – 8

and economic development, education and development of

October 2016, Variety Theatre “Yantar Hall”, the city of

human capital.

As a part of the Forum events an auction of the largest

Svetlogorsk, Kaliningrad region.

stones with the weight exceeding 1 kilogram that have never been sold by the Amber Combine before is planned.

Detailed information about the Amber Forum as well as participation in the event is available at the website: › amberforum.ru

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32

THE FIRST ECONOMIC FORUM OF THE AMBER INDUSTRY IN THE RUSSIAN FEDERATION October 6th – 8th, 2016

Exhibition Center «Yantar’ Hall» Svetlogorsk, Kaliningrad region

Organizers: JSC «Kaliningrad Amber Combine»

www.amberforum.ru +7 499 706 80 78 info@amberforum.ru

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Coloured gemstones in Gemworld Munich

RUSSIA‘S JEWELLERY MARKET REPORT TRENDS

company saw the biggest increase in value sales in 2015, mostly

Difficult economic conditions in Russia continued to have

thanks to its offer of silver items.

an impact on the development of jewellery in 2016. Due to lowering disposable incomes some consumers switched from

PROSPECTS

gold to silver in fine jewellery in 2016. According to the experts,

Jewellery in Russia is expected to post value growth of

demand for silver doubled in 2015 and this tendency remained

2 % at constant 2016 prices over the forecast period. Due to the

in 2016. This is explained by the fact that unit prices of silver

consumers’ lowering disposable incomes, the trading-down

remained the same as they were in the pre-crisis time, but unit

trend to cheaper options is expected to erode the growth

prices of gold products grew significantly. Some silver jewellery

in demand during the forecast period. However, sales are

looks like white gold jewellery that is considered swanky. Also,

expected to recover in line with the overall restoration of the

after the crisis started consumers began to choose gold items

economic situation from 2018, which will boost demand for

that look massive but have hollow constructions or cushioning

more expensive types of jewellery.

layers with diamond grit. Such jewellery is distinguished by lower prices and less weight. This was common for consumers from the middle and lower classes. The luxury segment of

RUSSIA’S JEWELLERY MARKET SIZE: RETAIL VALUE RSP (€ mn)

jewellery did not suffer that much from the economic crisis and devaluation of the national currency. High-net-worth

5,000

individuals did not notice the deterioration of their welfare

2,500

in 2016 and continued their spending on luxury products

0

including exclusive jewellery. Such consumers considered

2013 2014 2015 2016

forecast

fine jewellery as an investment tool to maintain their wealth under the more challenging conditions of the economic

4,867.80 4,949.00 4,307.60 4,047.70

downturn.

COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE

COMPANY SHARES RANKING ACCORDING TO RETAIL

Domestic company Sokolov OOO remained the top player

VALUE RSP

within jewellery in Russia in 2015, with a retail value share of 7 %. The company ambitiously aims to cater to different

1. KYUZ Diamant OOO

consumer segments through its continuously enhanced

2. Yuvelirny Zavod Akvamarin OOO

product portfolio. The products offered by Sokolov OOO

3. Delta KUZ OOO

feature up-to-date design and utilisation of precious metals

4. Yuvelirny Zavod Platina OOO

and stones, which are sought by Russian consumers. The

5. ADAMAS Stolichnyi Yuvelirnyi Zavod

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34

A small amber processing company with 20 years of experience in a variety of amber jewellery production.

2016

Tove KNUTS – Sweeden, Grand Prix of the Minister of Culture and National Heritage + 1 kg of silver founded by the Minister of Culture and National Heritage

By Justyna STASIEWICZ

Winners of CITY competition 

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

F E ST I VA L S I L V E R IN LEGNICA –

The culmination of the 37th edition of the Festival SILVER in Legnica took place on 20–22 May. Not only is this festival a contemporary jewelery competition – it is also a global overview of what contemporary artists create and what kind of topics, techniques and materials are familiar to them.

At this year’s event 25 exhibition openings took place. We could see, among others, interesting individual exhibitions, such as “Movement” by Jeemin Jamie Chung or “Where does a parallel world exist?” by Mari Ishikawa. Rich group exhibitions included the annual cycle of Silver Schools, the exhibition Signs of Presence” by employees of the Academy of Fine Arts in Lodz, “Forgotten dogs and unseen flowers” by Tabea Reulecke and Daniel Malev, the work of the Jewellery Concept Art. association, and these are only a small part of the whole that was presented.

Alejandra SOLAR – Mexico/Spain, 1st Award of the Marshal of Lower Silesia Province – 5.000 PLN +1 kg of silver founded by the Minister of Culture and National Heritage

Sham PATWARDHAN-JOSHI – India/Germany, 2nd Award of the Mayor of the Legnica City – 3.000 PLN + 1 kg of silver founded by the Gallery of Art in Legnica

CITY AND SILVER The theme of the festival was CITY. The artists creating contemporary jewelry had a chance to think about what kind of phenomena or problems are associated with urban space and how does a human fit into all this, as a social unit. We had the opportunity to see the result of these considerations at two post-competition exhibitions: main, which took place in the Gallery of Art in Legnica, is a collection of jewelry selected by a prestigious jury and the second, held in Holownia (the Patricia DOMINGUES – Portugal, 3rd Award of the Gallery of Art in Legnica– solo exhibition with catalogue worth 4500 PLN

lobby of the old town hall), which brings together works that were not qualified for the competition.

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38

Protect me protectively – representing some kind of subsections to the main theme of the exhibition, which was: Corset.

Jewelry by Sergiusz Kuchczyński was highlighted by the Dominika Sadowska’s photos, which were exposed on the walls, between the objects.

Exhibition by Sergiusz Kuchczyński, however, was not the only one that was accentuated by the images of another artist: B (e) e black, is the title of one of the debuts taking place

I WOULD LIKE TO TRY ON YOUR BODY

this year, during the Festival Silver. The author of the works

Sergiusz Kuchczyński’s exhibition which is the result of his

exhibited on the mentioned exhibition was me (Justyna

doctoral thesis. The exhibition consisted of three parts with

Stasiewicz) and the whole was accompanied by photographs

separate titles: I’d like to try on your body, and Tie Me Up! and

taken by my brother (Rafał Stasiewicz).

Au + performance Photo by Rafał STASIEWICZ

These artists had prepared an interesting performance under the title of 1064 °C, which took place during the first day of this year’s culmination of the festival.

The last exhibition, which I would like to describe a bit more, will be “In the shadow” by Wojtek Rygało. The artist hid from the audience until the last minute the work that he made, and that the guests of the festival could show the world one

PERFORMANCE MULTIPLIED

after the other, only during the grand opening.

This year, once again Au + group came to Legnica, which is

Ending a report from the festival, I would like to present

next to Lis2 one of the most active groups of Polish art jewelery

works that were awarded in the flagship competition of this

artists/creators. It is entirely male group, which includes Marcin

year’s SILVER. As every year, there was an official prize-giving

Bogusław, Bartosz Maria Chmielewski, Filip Jackowski and

ceremony, during which a short performance by Mieczyslaw

Michael Wysocki.

Gryza took place. The artist, using an electric hammer, damaged part of the wall of the historic town hall, and wrapped the chipped parts in a piece of cloth and took with him. The

Wojtek RYGAŁO “In the shadow” Photo by Rafał STASIEWICZ

result of the whole event was a wave of discussion on the one hand associated with the protection of monuments (and it is worth mentioning that the work of Mieczyslaw Gryza, which he prepared for the competition, was all about that) and on the second with what is allowed and what is not allowed to do for an artist.

› www.jewelrydesign.pl

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39

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Sergiusz KUCHCZYŃSKI exhibition Corset Photo by Rafał STASIEWICZ

By Ewa PALIŃSKA The amber fair and amber fashion show have already been held, amber ambassadors have been chosen and, exactly 10 years ago, the Amber Museum was opened and the World Amber Council was established in Gdansk. Now Gdansk aims to persuade the Polish people to celebrate 44th wedding anniversaries as „amber“.

Since

there are amber deposits around Gdansk, Gdansk and the Tricity have the largest group of craftsmen and artists in

Poland who engage in the processing of this precious resin. We have something to be proud of, since amber is a treasure that helps us strengthen our city‘s position as well as maintain its power throughout the centuries – says Wiesław Bielawski, the Deputy Mayor of Gdansk responsible for spatial policy – This is the exact place where convoys would come from Southern Europe or the North Sea basin to purchase raw materials in order to make various items, such as beautiful jewellery. We strive to continue this tradition.

Thus, the city has long been supporting amber enthusiasts by providing various encouragement, for example, by spreading information about amber, supporting trade fairs, assigning amber ambassadors and giving amber gifts to the city‘s visitors.

From this day on, we suggest celebrating the World Amber Day annually on the 28th of June – says prof. Ryszard Szadziewski, Chairman of the World Amber Council. – On this day, 10 years ago, the World Amber Council was established.

We will contact amber enthusiasts and jewellers around the world to suggest organizing amber festivals, seminars and lectures about amber and its beauty on the 28th of June, thus contributing to the promotion of amber.

One of the promotional actions is selection of amber to be the talisman for 44th wedding anniversaries. This means that, in terms of appeal, amber is considered to be between ruby (40th wedding anniversary) and sapphire (45th wedding anniversary).

Can couples that are celebrating their „amber wedding anniversaries“ expect to receive some kind of gifts from the city?

This idea is very interesting and worth considering. There is no doubt that we will carefully examine this idea- says Wiesław Bielawski.

Amber Look, March 2016 Collection: FACES OF LOVE jewellery: Apart fashion: Teresa Rosati

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40

Article was first published in:http://www.trojmiasto.pl/wiadomosci/Bursztynowe-gody-po-44-latach-malzenstwa-n103087.html

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

44

AMBER WEDDING anniversary after years of marriage?

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

POLAND CUT OFF ITS OWN AMBER?

By Anna SADO

THE NEW POLISH GOVERNMENT IS LOOKING FOR BUDGET REVENUES IN ORDER TO FINANCE THE EXPENSIVE PROMISES FROM THEIR ELECTION CAMPAIGN. IT LOOKS LIKE THEY MAY BE FINANCED

BY REVENUES FROM COMPANIES MINING AMBER – AS THE GOVERNMENT IS PLANNING TO MAKE PROFIT AS A RESULT OF CHANGING THE RULES OF AMBER MINING.

Amber

jewellers have found out about the government’s plans from the media. The

legislator has excluded the opinion of a few thousand business entities dealing with amber processing in Poland from the formal process of consulting the bill assumptions. The Ministry of Environment is planning to introduce some rather far-fetched and unfavourable for the amber jewellers changes concerning the rules of amber mining in Poland. The changes will result from adjusting the Geological and Mining Law to the European Union requirements.

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44



“A large part of business people and employees may not

Amber becomes mining property. It means that the

survive this experiment and end up unemployed. Needless

Treasury will be the owner of the raw material (rather than the

to say that budget revenues will not increase due to lost

owner of the land on which deposits have been discovered as

taxes” – says a letter sent in May from the initiative of the S&A

it has been the case until not). Consequently, an investor will be

public company, the largest producer of jewellery with amber

obliged to sign a mining usufruct contract with the Treasury,

in Poland. The letter was signed together with the Amber

outlining payment form the usufruct and the way of payment.

Chamber and International Fair Trade Centre. This initiative



An 80-fold increase of service charge. Currently,

has inspired the President of the Gdańsk International Fair to

the companies dealing with amber mining pay 10,26 PLN, as

write a similar letter to the ministers of Environment, Energy

set out in the licence issued by the voivodship Marshall. After

and Maritime Economy and Inland Shipping. Copies of the

the statute is implemented the payment will be 800 PLN for a

letters will be sent to the people who can have influence on

kilogram of mined amber, regardless of its quality.

the final content of the statute – such as MP’s and senators.



Higher fines for illegal amber mining. The legislator

Small scale miners who only mine small amounts of amber

is planning to increase the fines for seeking and recognition

are also really worried, as well as large investors who will incur

of amber deposits without the required licence by 10 times,

significantly higher costs of obtaining raw material. If they

that is to 400,000 PLN for each square kilometre of the land

find only fine raw material of market value between 80 and

being subject to the activity, as well as change of legal category

100 PLN per kilogram (this sort constitutes about 80% of the

of the act to a crime punishable with a fine, restriction of

mined raw material) the enterprise will be a flop. However, to

personal liberty or imprisonment up to one year (currently

the legislator it does not matter...

it is an offence).

Most likely, the imagination of the decision makers has

The official reason for the changes listed above is the

been influenced by the high prices of amber raw material as

intention to supress illegal mining. The size of illegal mining

well as the documentation of the National Institute of Geology

remains unknown, whereas legal mining has been estimated

which indicate that there are rich deposits of amber in Poland –

to be 1024 kilograms in 2015, plus around 5–6 tons of raw

a total of 1.1 thousand tons, mainly in Lubelskie and Pomorskie

material gathered on the beach every year. Meanwhile, the

voivodships. Those are only the documented deposits – if

demand of the Polish amber industry alone is about 150 tons

we add the undocumented ones, Poland rises to the range

of raw material, jewellery quality. For years, there have been

of amber tycoon in terms of deposits. The problem is that

opinions within the industry, saying that there is a need to start

that optimistic data exists only in documentation – in reality

mining local deposits so as not to be dependent on Russia or

no investor has decided to launch industrial amber mining in

Ukraine, and to ensure access to good quality raw material.

Poland – despite great plans and bold declarations.

The initiatives that came about have always encountered

It is difficult to predict what the consequences of the

problems with a lack of investors: ready to finance geological

amendment of the Geological and Mining Law will be if the

research (as the existing research, commissioned by the state,

government’s proposals are accepted. Perhaps it will not

is usually not through enough) and mining. Paradoxically, it

influence the industry much (currently the local output fulfils

was generally hoped that there would be a change to the

only a small part of the demand) as it fulfils the raw material

Geological and Mining Law in such a way that amber would

needs by importing raw material from Russia and Ukraine. It

become state property – it was expected that the state would

will surely eliminate the profession of amber miner altogether.

be the wanted investor. There is a change to the law, though

It is a really rare profession already, and soon it will become

no chance for financial support.

completely unprofitable. Probably nothing will change in the

To make the matters worse, the plans of the Ministry of

field of fighting with illegal mining: there is a need for a better

Environment have caused serious concerns about the future

detection rate of the offence, not merely higher fines. Most of

of the amber industry in Poland. The producers of jewellery

all, it is a pity that nothing will change in the field of support

adorned with amber are worried about additional problems

for the amber industry which on the hand is a beneficiary of

with mining and access to the raw material in Poland, as well

the EU support programmes, but on the other loses its chance

as further cost increase, resulting from the need to increase

for development in a rather vicious way. The tax revenue from

amber import. This in turn will, in their opinion, contribute to

well prospering amber producers successfully selling their

deterioration of international competitiveness of the entire

products all over the world were a stronger influx of money

industry and decrease of its overall profitability.

for the Treasury...

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45

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

THE MOST IMPORTANT CHANGES ARE:

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

JUBINALE 2016 On

Press release by JUBINALE PRESS Office

2–4.06.2016, thanks to the 9 th edition of

advantage of a chance to talk to the representatives of the

International Jewellery and Watches Trade

most important trade organizations and associations, i.e. The

Fair JUBINALE 2016, the fairgrounds of EXPO Krakow have

International Amber Association, The Association of

once again become the main meeting point of jewellery and

Jewellery Experts and Polish Craft Association. For the

watches trade in Central Europe. The exhibition was attended

third year, JUBINALE also hosted the pavilion of Jewellery

by a record number of exhibitors so far – 218 companies

and Watchmaking Association of Portugal.

from 15 countries (Poland, Austria, Belgium, Czech Republic,

At the end of the first day, the Exhibitors met in the

Spain, India, Lithuania, Germany, Portugal, Russia, Romania,

relaxed atmosphere at the Exhibitor Evening. Traditionally,

Ukraine, Hungary, England and Italy). Also an increase in the

three companies were awarded the Gem of JUBINALE. The

number of visitors, especially from Slovakia, Ukraine and

companies who received the award this year: Kogata, Art

Lithuania was recorded.

Styl and By Dziubeka. Thank you once again for exceptional

For past 9 years JUBINALE has successfully strengthened

cooperation. We wish you all of the success in future.

its position, consequently being saved on the schedule of a

The first two days of the fair were dedicated exclusively to

growing group of people in the jewellery and watchmaking

professionals, while the last day was open also to the public

industry. Since the transfer of JUBINALE to the new exhibition

from Krakow. The visitors not related to jewellery industry had

grounds of EXPO Krakow, its dynamic development is

a unique opportunity to get to know the upcoming trends

undeniably visible – constantly growing number of

in the world of jewellery and watches and to buy selected

exhibitors, regular participation of leading Polish

pieces, for example, in Designer Trends area.

companies and steadily growing number of exhibitors

The meetings during the exhibition were filled with

and visitors from abroad are just some elements that prove

valuable discussions and business negotiations. It has been

how important JUBINALE is for the jewellery industry.

known for long that direct contact is the most effective form

JUBINALE is addressed mainly to strictly targeted

of sales, of which the lively conversations at the stands were

audience – owners of jewellry stores and

the obvious confirmation. And while some sectors of the

galleries, producers and distributors, sales

industry feel some stagnacy, we believe that JUBINALE will

representatives and other professionals

do the job and will bring business benefits for a long time Next, 10th edition of JUBINALE will be held on 8–10

associated with the industry. Carefully

of June 2017.

selected offers of exhibitors provided the buyers with a wide range of

We also invite you to participate in the upcoming sales

products from almost all sectors of

meeting JUBINALE Christmas, 8–9.11.2016, where you

the industry. At the stands, next to

will meet many exhibitors of JUBINALE. The main aim of

latest jewellery and watches

organizing this meeting is to create an opportunity for visitors

collections, visitors were offered

to stock up before important, busy Christmas season.

the packaging and boxes,

If you would like regularly see the important information

tools, machines, services

about JUBINALE, like us on Facebook, were we regularly

and technology solutions.

publish news about the fair, the profiles of artists and offer

Many of those guests took

of exhibitors.

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46

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Appealing PRODUCTS AND DESIGNS Press release by AMBERMART Press Office The 17th AMBERMART International Amber Fair will be held on August 25–27 in Gdańsk, Poland.

AMBERMART opens the autumn exhibition season and enables trade visitors to replenish their stock after the summer. AMBERMART’S product range includes silver and gold jewellery with amber, amber jewellery and objets d’art, coloured gemstones, souvenirs and functional art. Next to a wide range of jewellery, you can find amber figurines, coffers, devotional items, Tiffany-style lamps and other decor with amber in the leading role. During last year’s edition of AMBERMART, appealing products and designs and an extensive agenda of accompanying events attracted over 3500 visitors from 36 countries. An especially strong representation came from European countries, mainly Germany, the UK and Denmark along with buyers from Russia and China.

AMBERMART 2016 expects the attendance of 200 Polish and international exhibitors.

The event is accompanied by exhibitions, workshops and the Most Beautiful Amber Jewellery Competition.

AMBERMART concludes on Saturday night, with the most picturesque street of the Gdańsk Old Town hosting the Mariacka Street Festival. Art previews, recitals and social get-togethers will be continued until late at night, this time under motto “In Mariacka’s Seventh Heaven”. The event’s programme is developed in collaboration with gallery owners, artists, restaurateurs, partnering cultural institutions, creative organisations, the street’s residents and International Amber Association. The evening will be highlighted with a fashion and jewellery show by Magda Arłukiewicz and Aleksander Gliwiński.

AMBERMART is open to the general public.

See you in Gdańsk!

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50

WOMAN AND THE CITY

Photo: Łukasz GŁOWALA

Fashion: Patrycja KOWALCZYK Jewellery: Tomasz KARGUL

GALA AMBER LOOK TRENDS & STYLES 2016 ASYMMETRY

CARBON & DIAMONDS-ORGANICA

Fashion: Joanna WEYNA Hats: Beata MIŁOGRODZKA Jewellery: Jola and Andrzej KUPNIEWSCY

Fashion: Aneta POPŁAWSKA Jewellery: Eliza & Krzysztof BONDARUK

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

CHROMANTIK Fashion: Małgorzata WASIK Jewellery: Maja WOŹNIAK

GDNCollection Fashion: DIVERSE Jewellery: Emilia KOHUT

SPOD óNIEGU Fashion: Beata JARMOŁOWSKA Jewellery: Danuta BURCZIK-KRUCZKOWSKA

SKIN TO SKIN Fashion: Mirka DWORAK Jewellery: Daria JANKOWIAK

MECHANIC FLOWER

ORIENT EXPRESS

Fashion: Michał StAROST Jewellery: Joanna KOTOWICZ-BUCZYŃSKA , Dagmara KIRAGA with Centrum NAUKI KOPERNIK and Katarzyna C. MARCINIAK

Fashion: Joanna BŁAŻEJOWSKA Jewellery: Dorota CENECKA

SMACZNA Fashion: Jola SŁOMA & Mirek TRYMBULAK Jewellery: Danuta CZAPNIK

Legal regula ons for Jewellery, Gems, Amber Contract law, Civil Law disputes, Legal documents Disputes with state and municipal ins tu ons Construc on, Land and Territory Planning Law

M.K. Paco str. 4.

VILNIUS 10309, LITHUANIA +370 686 48239 egle@legallogic.lt hÂ’p://legallogic.lt

Civil Law disputes Family Law Construc on, Land and Territory Planning Law

By Agata JANKOWIAK / www.PicaPica.pl

Tomasz

Line A: dedicated to the European market and characterized by form of simple lines, crossing through

Kargul has designed the jewellery

repeatedly, sharp and angular ones, inspired by contemporary

for 16 years, but he lately stated it is

architecture;

going to be his permanent job. Earlier, he thought the passion

Line B: dedicated to the Asian market and characterized

is to elapse like leaving aside dreams about a balloon flight,

by soft and oval not crossing lines, inspired by feng shui

rapid cycling down or piloting a chaser, meanwhile it was

philosophy;

not. Yet he still missed the idea how to use it in a future life.

GeoAmber brand develops great. Innovative goldsmith

He was aware the fact that he would like to face with the

solutions used in collection, won recognition among clients

amber – our national pride. Can you realize, dear Magpie what

of Europe, United States of America and Asia during Amberif –

is an issue with the fossilized resin? A polished drop usually

International Fair of Amber in 2015. Tomasz was awarded in

reflects a pear – the easiest thing is to attach some leaf to it

2015: 2nd place while 1st International Amber Triennale in

to make a simple project related to plan-based motif. Tomasz

Flombork, the merit (category: Technical Innovation) during

did not want to be the one who does that. He believed it is

Jeweller’s Contest Mercurius Gedanensis, the merit in the

possible to create amber projects that can attract, outstand

contest “Design a Jewellery using Bottle Caps” and also during

and not to bore at the same time.

Warsaw Fashion Street exhibition .

The edification came to him in an unexpected place. During

I must admit that thanks to GeoAmber projects, I started

one of his trips, he saw an arena in Pekin – an architectonic

to wear amber again. It is the result of the Tomasz’s mission

pearl, the work of Swiss duet Herzog & Meuron. In the area of

victory.

an oval lump, the organic curvature they concluded simple and geometric lines. It was a proper contrast, Tomasz wanted to see in jewellery.

Ideas was coming to him like crazy ones, so he started to saw, polish and take care of precise amber brazing. It was almost unreal to run his company and create at the same time. He needed some help, otherwise he could lose his firm and iconic projects would not save him. So he established a partnership with Radosław Irga, who is responsible for client negotiations and also building retail chain. They mutually contemplated the collection and created two lines of GeoAmber products.

Pictures: Katarzyna JANKOWIAK / www.PicaPica.pl

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55

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

GeoAmber – AMBER THAT ATTRACTS

ENCHANTED by a dress made from amber

By Virginija ZYGIENE Dalia DUŠKESĖ first learned about amber during her childhood years – by playing with her mother‘s long and old amber necklace. The artist‘s interest in amber returned unexpectedly after visiting her good friend‘s amber jewellery shop. “That shop was the place where I saw amber from a different perspective, and discovered it anew. It was the summer of 2008. Since, at the time, I was a seamstress and a creator, I started to wonder whether it would be possible to make a dress out of amber. After all, amber warms and soothes us, it protects and heals, provides strength and is incredibly beautiful”, – says the designer while talking about her friendship with amber and plans to create an amber clothing collection.

THE

conversation with the artist begins from her professional career choice. After her school

studies and after finishing Kaunas four-year children‘s art school, Dalia started working as a seamstress in a factory, and later – in Kaunas Drama Theatre. At that time, she understood that sewing is actually a very interesting trade, and she enjoys creating clothing from various different fabrics.

“Fabric is a special material that can be transformed into beautiful clothes. Some fabrics are hard and “sublime”, while others are slippery as rippling water. I have noticed that you must understand fabrics, as, in fact, all other material things.

Sometimes you succeed, and sometimes you fail to do so.

For me, sewing was always and will always be art, creation and discovery: to tailor clothes so that they would hide the imperfections of a person‘s figure, and highlight the features that are beautiful”, – says the designer.

According to her, she still remembers all her successful designs, which, after they were finished, would put her in a state of emptiness and unusual melancholic serenity and it would take her at least a day to recover and rest. “I feel happiest

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56

when I see that clothing created by me bring joy to women, blend in with their essence and become a part of them, as if becoming their second skin. And, when I hired helpers to sew my designs for me, my female customers started to change.

I still remember the words of one woman: “It is important for me that you sew the clothes yourself.” Then I realized that it is very important to love what you do, and love is something that makes clothing a part of you. This feeling gives life and soul to a piece of clothing, and only then can it protect a person from the cold as well as bad intentions from others”,– says the artist.

Dalia DUŠKESĖ

According to Dalia, she did not know much about amber until the summer of 2008. She only knew that it was a mandatory attribute for the national costume of Lithuanian women. However, her idea to create a dress made of amber, which became quite famous later on, turned everything upside

“Amber mandala – SURYA NAMASKAR”

down. Only when she began to tie the dress, Dalia started to feel that this technique was always a part of her, as if sleeping inside her mind, and she only had to awaken it. I caught the “amber dress bug” – I would wake up at five in the morning and would start working without even changing out of my night robes. On the last month, I had some help from my friends.

The skirt of the dress was tied by five people at once”, – says the artist while sharing her memories.

The amber dress participated for the first time with the “Arza” gallery (co-author of the dress) in the “Amberif” exhibition held in Gdansk, in the spring of 2009. In September of the same year, Dalia‘s dress was recognized as the heaviest amber dress (weighing 2,639 kg) by the Lithuanian Records Registration Agency “Factum”. Later, in 2013, the artist‘s jewellery and dress participated in Frankfurt‘s “Ambiente” exhibition. The amber dress, which was estimated to be worth 30 thousand euros, was also worn by Karolina Toleikytė, who represented Lithuania in “Miss Planet 2015” beauty contest held in Georgia and won an award for best costume.

disliked only by those who do not know or understand it”, –

The designer mentions that her wrists began to hurt from

says the artist, expressing her admiration for amber.

intensive work during the creation process of the dress. She decided to wrap her wrists in amber fabric strips and, after a

JEWELLERY VARIETY

few minutes, felt that her pains started to subside. This inspired

The designer‘s creations also include an amber scarf which

her to create amber wristlets. “In winter, amber wristlets keep

can be worn both by women and men. Whereas her amber

the wrists warm and soothe wrist pains. And when I put on a

mandala was custom made and its production was quite

necklace, I no longer need a scarf”, – says Dalia.

unusual: the artist‘s home was filled with peace, concentration

The designer believes that it is impossible to not fall in

and the sounds of meditative music for an entire month.

love with amber when you feel its mysterious nature, feel

“Each article of jewellery that I create is an expression of my

how it warms up in your hands, and how exceptional it is, yet

love to everything it touches. All my creations are interesting

simple at the same time.

and different. I remember tying one bracelet, which I thought

“Amber protects, heals, warms, soothes, comforts and

looked rather strange, but I could not force myself to pull it apart.

loves. It is modest (can be worn with a simple sweater), yet

This bracelet managed to quickly find its own master during

also luxurious, as it can compete with gemstones. Amber is

an exhibition. I have often observed how women see a certain

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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

for massage purposes. You can carry a piece of amber in your pocket and hold it in your hand or rub it between your fingers when you feel stressed.

There are no doubts that amber heals and protects. “Amber jewellery warms and soothes babies, as well as protects them against bad intentions. Babies can also chew amber during their teething period. In ancient times, babies were also given amber pacifiers. Amber acid is similar to our body fluids – it improves the immune system and so on. Amber blends well with wool, cotton, silk and linen. Together with Inga Samušienė and Rasa Žostautienė, we have created felt slippers with

“The eye of the sun”

amber”, – says Dalia. bracelet or necklace that they like, try it on and do not want to

FUTURE PLANS

take it off. Still, I am only the executor, an intermediary between

We were curious about the author‘s plans to exhibit her

the customer and the creator”, – says the jeweller and designer.

works in the near future.

Amber has over 300 different shades and each piece of

“I have a lot of plans and dreams which are simply unable

amber, even the smallest one, has its own colour, pattern

to catch up with my wishes and possibilities. I have a dream

and design. It preserves plant particles, small bugs and grains

to present my works in Moscow, Japan, the Arab Emirates,

of sand for millions of years. That is why the artist admires

and, once again, in “Ambiente”. I would like to create an

each piece of amber, as each piece is unique. Each article of

amber clothing collection where amber directly touches the

amber jewellery is a story about the world 50 million years

biologically active points of the body”, – says the designer.

ago, and each drop of amber is a wish and energy devoted to

She reveals that her works will also soon include

us, humans, says Dalia.

other types of jewellery. Especially since the artist loves to cooperate, communicate and establish friendly relations with

THE UNIQUENESS OF AMBER

manufacturers of various fields, to match and surprise, and to

“This marvellous mineral is God‘s gift to the world, as we

unexpectedly combine various different materials.

are unable to create anything like it, even with the help of

“Each person whom I meet is my teacher who has the ability

the latest technologies. Therefore, I can confidently say that

to strongly influence my path as an executor. The people I meet

amber heals and I treat it with love and respect”, – says Dalia.

are exceptional and charismatic. I am immensely impressed

The artist also mentions amber powder, which is extremely

with anagama ceramics created by Dormantė and Jurgis

valuable and used in cosmetics and the production of medicine

Penkinskis. We will see what comes out of. I sincerely hope

since ancient times. By pouring water over amber pieces and

that, just like me, each person will feel the joy of discovery when

slightly heating it, you change the water‘s structure and make

viewing amber from a different perspective”, – says the artist.

it particularly useful, as well as make tea with a distinctive taste.

You can find Dalia‘s latest creative discoveries on her

Amber oil soothes pain and relaxes, therefore it is widely used

Facebook page.

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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

“METALLOPHONE” – ONE-OF-THE-KIND Interview with Kristina MIZGIRYTE

by Odilija GUNTORIUTE

Tadas Deksnys (LT), artist and curator Ketli Tiitsaar (EST) and lecturer of Academy of Art Lodz, Department of jewelry art Ewa Effenberg (PL).

1)

5)

Mission of the biennale “METALLOphone: personally” 2014 and „METALLOphone: Bonds

What is the feedback that you got from artists themselves – why do they take part in this

project? Why is it exiting for them?

2016“ is to connect different artists around the world who speak one identical metal language. It is a very

“Metallophone” has become a tradition and it’s constantly

beautiful and inspiring aim, how did idea for biennial

growing and involving new artists from all over the world.

come about?

According to the majority of artists, “Metallophone” is a

In many cases artists get stuck in the routine and they

great place to learn about the world stage of metal art and

often tend to forget that they are part of a great worldwide

an opportunity to present one’s artwork in an international

community. “Metallophone” is the only event dedicated to

context. A number of artists, who participated in 2014, are

metal art, therefore, we attempt to unite artists working with

presenting their newest art pieces again this year. We are

metal, encourage them to get to know each other, allow them

also very glad to have many new well-known as well as rising

to communicate, share and work together.

metal art artists. One of the reasons why artists choose to

2)

participate in the event is that the biennale is exceptionally How many artists participated in the selection

devoted to modern metal art. It is one-of-the-kind event in

for the exhibition?

the Baltic States that attracts artists from various continents.

In total, 109 artists participated in the selection process;

Lithuania, as well as Estonia, have good metal art and jewellery

they have presented 250 art pieces.

schools, artists brought up in these schools are famous all

3)

around the world; therefore, it is no surprise that the event of How many were selected for the exhibition?

metal art, which takes place in our region attracts a number

Which countries participate in METALLOphone?

of international participants.

Which are the most active?

6)

63 artists were selected with 110 art pieces in total. The selection process involved artists from all over the world.

You will hold online international lecture cycle.

When will the program be available? Where will

it be available?

The biennale gathered attention not only in Europe, but also Asia, America and as far as New Zealand. The exhibition will

The 2016 event “METALLOphone: realtions” will include a

include artists from Lithuania, Latvia, Turkey, Romania, Poland,

new program – an online international lecture cycle. During this

Germany, Greece, Belgium, Japan, the USA, Sweden, Denmark,

cycle, artists from all over the world will get the opportunity

the Netherlands, Taiwan, Columbia, Canada, Estonia, Austria,

to share their insights and knowledge regarding metal art

the Great Britain, Pakistan, South Korea, Israel, Italy, Brazil,

and its directions. Lecture cycle schedule will be announced

Thailand, Finland, Spain and New Zealand.

in the beginning of September, on “METALLOphone” website

4)

www.metalofonas.com.

Who are the members of jury?

Art pieces for the exhibition were selected by

secret, i.e. the jury was not aware of the artists’ names. Works of art were judged by an international jury, which included: jeweler Sigitas Virpilaitis (LT), associate professor of Vilnius Academy of Arts, Faculty of Telsiai Mindaugas Simkevicius (LT), art critic and jeweler Justina Zymonaitė (LT), jeweler

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60

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT MICHIHIRO SATO (Japan)

LENA LINDAHL (Sweden)

“Not two different things”, 2016 It is said in Buddhism that being alive is the manifestation of life and being dead is the latent form of life, so both of them are just different appearances of life and not two different things.

Silver, paper, stainless steel 11x6x6 cm.

Object

“Mother”, 2015 Family What are our bonds? Which one is the strongest?

Being an artist mainly working with silver I feel strongly about my favourite metal. Its plasticity, its many shades and the sensuality in the meeting with the skin always inspire me. The strongest bonds though for all of us humans are the ones to nature and family. No matter what paths we may follow in life we will always carry our childhood and our family bonds within.

And wherever we choose to go we will depend on nature in order to survive. I want my brooches to be reminders of these bonds. I think we need it.

Silver, artificial plant 10x7 cm.

Brooch

WU CHING-CHIH (Taiwan) “Heart square series”, 2015 Using electric forming, I have transformed found objects into metal and then restored the original colour and shape with enamel. My message is the question whether the value of found objects still remains after the transformation. In addition, I have also inserted the concept of jewellery and sculpture into this piece by taking the jewellery’s functionality as a partial form of the object. Hence, the work no longer only serves a function, but also expresses the concept of a micro-sculpture. This group of work was created with a sculptural concept in mind, and as for material performance, the contrast of smooth and coarse texture was created.

Copper, bronze, stainless steel, enamel 9x9x4 cm.

Brooch

RUUDT PETERS (Netherlands) TERRAM “Bakken”, 2015 We walk the world on our feet, but we are not aware that our feet do more than merely carry us. Our feet are necessary tools, but they also root us to the ground. I emphasize awareness of my place as a jewellery maker in the world of body and mind.

Terram helps me to connect the micro- and macrocosm, the upper world and the underworld. Step on the ground.

Silver, renshape 70x130x90 Object

EGLĖ ČĖJAUSKAITĖ-GINTALĖ (Lithuania) “Bonds” Connections: carrying, connecting, hiding, concealing different interconnections.

Silver 10x10 cm Object

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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

VITA PUKŠTAITĖ (Lithuania) „Randomness”, 2016 Is the connection between coincidences is accidental?

Directions for the use of the work of art: flip horizontally and shake it a bit, then flip vertically before hanging it.

Copper, enamel, aliuminium, steal, wood 45x16 cm.

Object

YING-HSIEN KUO (Eunice) (England) ”But you promised”, 2015 This project is dedicated to people who have ever struggled in love. In this collection, each metal ring represents a being.

Due to gravity, the metal rings dropped further, gradually through time, which can be seen in the installation. The weight of the rings determines the speed at which they drop. Soren Kierkegaard’s ‘Theory of fall’, regarding anxiety, is delivered.

Psychologist Robert Sternberg’s ‘Triangular theory of love’, regarding relationship, is symbolized as triangular metal units.

The use of solid tape materialized the complex emotions that we have in an unpleasant relationship. Tape is representative of the mind in this state.

It sticks to anything and in turn possesses.

The minimal shape and the solidity of metal bring out the most fundamental characteristics of this material. This allows metal units to have some certain interactive with the tape in this project; rolling, falling, trimming and holding pieces are actions that link to its forms.

Sterling silver, tape, ink 5x0.3x 3 cm.

Ring

MARIE GREWENIG (Germany) “O(H)RDEN”, 2015 For my jewellery I use the means of expression which I know best and which is the most intimate – my body. Using my body I can visualize gestures, sentiments, and emotions that are associated with different meanings. I try to focus on parts, gestures or on actions, which seem to be profane and selfevident. The resulting imprints of the body form new bodies.

They seem familiar but also strange and vague at the same time.

On the subject of BONDS, I focused on the act of listening.

Listening is the basis of our daily communication and an important connection for our daily cooperation. It is too often judged as natural and is not esteemed. By my work I emphasize the good listening and appreciation for it.

Aluminium, synthetic material 8x8x 4 cm.

Object

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62

ILZE KIBURE (Latvia) “The Inheritance”, 2016 My grandparents Ieva and Žanis have left an amazing inheritance to me. They both were craftsmen. I combine the masculine, heavy and unclean metal-working of my grandfather and feminine, gentle handicrafts of my grandmother – crochet in the jewellery collection The Inheritance.

Copper, silk thread 44 cm, width 3 cm.

Necklace

ARIC VERRASTRO (USA) “On the Horizon“, 2016 I have recently been displaced from living in a city, which has left emptiness in my life. The creation of each piece has become a method to fill the void and a reflection of the many aspects of city life. The forms are architectural, modular, constructed from steel, becoming allegorical representations of the energy of a thriving, vibrant environment. The variations of form show diversity and are linked to concepts of dancing lights and the beautiful musical chaos in the streets. Steel is painted with vibrant colours giving vitality to the cold, hard material.

Stitching softens the hard-edged forms creating a sense of comfort and approachability paralleling my nostalgia for city life. The thread acts as a metaphorical timeline of an individual’s pathway meandering through the busy streets. Each break in the thread signifies a person amongst the many. The human body completes the piece of jewellery as people fill and give life to architectural spaces, expressing the vitality and connection I feel towards the urban human experience.

Steel, copper, sterling silver, stainless steel. thread, 23k gold leaf, acrylic paint 10x12x 7 cm.

Object

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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

JORDI APARICIO MANCHADO (Spain) “Anima 10”, 2016 Going from precious material to the most primitive, I emphasize metaphorical meanings of shade, tinge, tint, and blandness. The result is a series of delicate and profound works, in which I express the fears and obsessions that live in me.

Silver wire 25x8x5 cm.

Object

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

“MY H ME”

JEWELLERY CATEGORY

1st place “For plasticity of form” Kim JI YOUNG Before sunrise

THE WINNERS: OBJECTS CATEGORY

1st place “For expressive dialogue” Ernesta STATKUTE The power of harmony

“MY HOME” WAS A THEME OF THE JEWELLERY CONTEST, WHICH TOOK PLACE IN 13TH AMBER TRIP JEWELLERY EXHIBITION IN VILNIUS, LITHUANIA. OVER 90 WORKS OF ARTISTS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD PARTICIPATED. ARTISTS WERE ASKED TO THINK HOW WOULD THEY REPRESENT THEIR HOME IN A PIECE OF JEWELLERY. THE CONTEXT OF A CURRENT REFUGEE CRISIS, WHEN MILLIONS OF PEOPLE HAVE TO LEAVE THEIR HOME, THIS TOPIC IS EVEN MORE RELEVANT. THE SELECTED WORKS WERE PRESENTED IN MAGAN GALLERY IN LONDON AND RAMYBES GALLERY IN PALANGA.

Remigija VAITKUTE Home

Joana HENRIQUES Covreia

Agne ZALTAUSKAITE Home – safest shelter

Jelizaveta SUSKA The roots in the amber

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64

Camilla MILETO Baltic Little Space

Wojciech JERZY Brylka

2nd place “For diverse material matching solution” 3rd place “For elegant union of materials” Juris GAGAINIS Andrei BALASHOV

2nd place “For playful censorship” 3rd place “For philosophical solution of different materials” Una MIKUNDA Jaan PAERN

Diana GLADKAJA Unelfish home

Karolina SIBURKYTE Your Heart Is My Home

HEIDEMARIE Herb Eva PEI Wu

Robertas KRAPAVICKAS Hospitality

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Viktorija VAINIUTE The skin 

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Shortly after the book was published Petry organised an exhibition of the same name based on the book. The exhibition consists of historic still-life paintings and contemporary art works of leading artists of the 21st century. The exhibition has already been shown in Norway (Ha Gamle Prestegard), in Sweden (Bohusian Museum). In the beginning of 2017 a show in Poland (National Museum in Wroclaw) is planned.

From September 2017 to January 2018 the final stop of the tour will be held at London’s Guildhall Art Gallery in the City of London. The London edition will be accompanied by the Nature Morte jewellery exhibition at MOCA London and will include works from the Amber Trip 2017 competition, chosen by the curators.

NATURE MORTE Art Jewellery Competition

The topic and entries: The topic is Nature Morte.

Jewellery / objects in all techniques and materials are accepted.

accompanying the Amber Trip XIV International Baltic Jewellery Show in Vilnius (Lithuania).

Amber is not obligatory but recommended material. As fossilized remains of ancient life it could be called a ‘natural nature morte’.

Nature morte or or still life, a genre commonly

The Jury: Michael PETRY, director of MOCA London, UK

associated with painting, has been present in art from

Arts, Poland

the earliest times. As a genre, it became formalised in the

Tanel VEENRE, professor at Estonian Academy of Arts, Tallin,

seventeenth century. Contemporary artists still explore the

Estonia

topic with all its symbolic tradition as well as new connotations

Andi GUT, professor at Hochschule für Gestaltung in Pforzheim,

in different media. Nevertheless there are very few works of

Germany

contemporary art jewellery associated with nature morte.

Irina SLESAROVA, editor, Russian Jeweller magazine, Moscow,

Giedymin JABLONSKI, professor at Wroclaw Academy of

This time except the standard prizes the participants have

Russia

a chance of including their work in a very special exhibition

Valdis BROŽE, freelance artist, Latvia

showing art jewellery in context of the contemporary art as

Laima KERIENE, professor at Vilnius Academy of Arts (VDA),

a whole.

Vilnius, Lithuania

In 2013 Michael Petry – artist, curator, author, Director of

The awards: I prize – free place in the International Baltic

the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), London published a

Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” 2017, the article about the author

book entitled NATURE MORTE, Contemporary artists reinvigorate

and advertisement in the magazine “Baltic Jewelery News”.

the Still Life tradition. The introduction ‘Revisiting the Still Life’

II prize – free place in the International Baltic Jewellery Show

contains a short history of the genre and its multi layered

“Amber Trip” 2017, the article about the author in the magazine

symbolism followed by a chronological review of examples

“Baltic Jewelery News”.

of the ‘classic’ – from ancient Egypt and Leonardo da Vinci to

III prize – free place in the international Baltic Jewellery Show

Robert Mapplethorpe and Andy Warhol.

“Amber Trip” 2017, an interview with the author in the magazine

He followed this with a review of contemporary examples

“Baltic Jewelery News”.

in a wide variety of media. He widens the generally accepted

The timing: The jury session and award ceremony: 15–18 of

meaning of still life often seen only as ‘flat’ – painting, drawing

March 2017. Deadline for entries: 1 March 2016

and photography to the 3D representations – sculpture,

Contact / questions: Participation details: Odilija Guntoriute,

installation and objects. The review is divided into the historic

office@balticjewellerynews.com

areas of still life: Flora, Food, House & Home, Fauna and finally

Art and craft problems: Giedymin jablonski, giedymin.

Death.

jablonski@gmail.com

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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

CEO of Amber Trip Giedrius GUNTORIUS

EXHIBITION “AMBER TRIP” is a Platform for Deals and Market Analysis

Giedrius

By Virginija ZYGIENE The amber market had been growing for the past six years. However, currently it has encountered some major confusion: amber purchases from China ceased, smuggling of illegal amber from Ukraine continues, and the local entrepreneurs’ opportunities to purchase raw material from amber facilities in Kaliningrad are limited. These issues are on the market participants’ minds before the upcoming 14th International Jewellery and Amber Exhibition “Amber Trip 2017”.

Guntorius, the Organizer of “Amber Trip” – the only

international exhibition in the Baltic States annually held in Vilnius in March, said that currently the market is frozen: the prices of raw amber and amber articles are dropping and there are several reasons for that. One of them is that China has stopped buying the so called sun stone and such trends could be observed over the past 2–3 months. For this reason the price of amber stones intended for the Chinese market might drop to the pricing level of year 2010.

“The amber market had been growing over the past 6 years, but perhaps this growth has already stopped and we would return to normal business conditions like in other industries, when business grows and drops little by little. But as for now, the participants in the raw amber market do not know what to expect: weather it is a break before the next sprint in the

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68

of “Amber Trip” cluster expected to receive funds from the EU

G. Guntorius.

structural funds for investments in amber business in 2016.

The Chinese market is particularly significant for the entire

Meanwhile no-one has expressed interest in participating

global amber industry, because approximately 50–60 percent

in an open competition for survey and extraction of amber in

of all amber and amber articles are exported to this Asian

the Curonian Lagoon initiated by the Lithuanian Geological

country, whereas the other part of it is exported to Europe,

Service yet. The deadline for submission of applications for

Arab countries, and America.

participations is the 20th of September but the possibility

According to G. Guntorius, chaos on the market is also

that the competition might fail to take place should be taken

caused by contraband raw amber which flooded the market

into consideration as well. The Ministry of the Environment

from Ukraine. A large scope of illegal mining and sales prevent

established a rate for the extracted Baltic gold: a 280-Euro

the price of amber on the market from settling down and bring

rate per kilogram, when the amber fraction was under 40

in lots of confusion.

millimetres, and a 900-Euro rate per kilogram, when the amber

“In March this year during Exhibition “Amber Trip 2016”

fraction exceeded 40 millimetres. On the other hand, the

we came to an agreement that the Lithuanian entrepreneurs

entrepreneur, who would win the competition, would have to

would contribute their accumulated global experience in

invest not only in surveying amber mines but also in assessment

order to help in bringing some order in amber mining and

of the impact on the environment and purchase equipment for

trade business in Ukraine. “Amber Trip” cluster, which united

extraction of amber. The Lithuanian Government estimates that

over 40 Lithuanian companies in 2013, has already signed

approximately 41 million Euros in revenue could be received

cooperation agreements with three major Ukrainian authorities

for amber extracted from the mine in Juodkrantė.

regarding regulation of raw amber market. Adjustment of legal

“It is also possible that no applications for the competition

framework would result in legalization of amber extraction and

for surveying and extraction of amber have been filed because

the raw material could be sold on the exchange market which

currently the market is not favourable for this due to drop in

we hope to attract to Vilnius this year”, spoke the organizer

prices of raw amber”, contemplated G. Guntorius.

of “Amber Trip”.

MARKET TRENDS IN EXHIBITION “AMBER TRIP”

Only several companies have been licensed to mine and sell amber in Ukraine, where potential resources of amber could

The Organizer of Exhibition “Amber Trip” noted that the

be up to 1 million tons. Several tons of amber are extracted in

confusion on the market of raw amber supply, China, Russia,

Ukraine per year, however, illegal export of the so-called sun

and problems concerning the illegal Ukrainian amber have

stone ranges to hundreds of tons. Estimates indicate that at

already been discussed in great detail during the Exhibition

least 50 tons of amber are exported from this country by way

held in March this year giving signals to participants on the

of contraband. According to the data available to the British

market.

press, smugglers pocket approximately 1 billion of US dollars

“The Exhibition held next year will also include relevant

annually for amber illegally exported from Ukraine.

discussions and seminars giving a chance to get inside

Amber facilities in Kaliningrad also add their fair share to

information on trends on the global amber market. We will

the unknown on the market as it suspended amber export

discuss not only China, Russia, or Ukraine, we will also organize

in this way limiting amber processors’ access to purchasing

a Belarusian forum during the Exhibition. Belarus is relevant not

the raw material back in autumn in 2014. Only companies

only to Lithuania but also to nearby countries such as Poland,

registered in Russia and companies operating on the local

Latvia, because Belarus could give access to the CIS countries.

market are entitled to take part in the auctions for raw amber

Exhibition “Amber Trip” will give a platform for making deals

organized by the facilities. According to the data available to

and market analysis, as always”, said G. Guntorius.

geologists, even 95 percent of all amber mines known globally are located precisely on the Eastern shore of the Baltic Sea.

The amber market had been growing over the past 6 years, but perhaps this growth has already stopped and

“We have good news: “Amber Trip” cluster is negotiating amber facilities in Kaliningrad regarding long-term cooperation. A contract would ensure steady supply of raw

WE WOULD RETURN TO NORMAL BUSINESS CONDITIONS

amber to companies of the cluster and would open the door to Europe for the amber facilities by turning amber supply back to

like in other industries

normal”, said G. Guntorius. He also mentioned that companies

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69

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

market or should they get ready for market recession”, said

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

JASSIM BOUHAMAD:

“I like Amber Trip for two reasons. One of them its very secure for me. And they prepare everything for me rooms, tickets – I like it. I think that people here are very friendly with the customer.”

AMBER TRIP STANDS OUT FROM OTHER EXHIBITIONS WITH ITS COZY AND FRIENDLY ATMOSPHERE.

AMBER TRIP HAS PROVEN ITSELF TO BE THE PLATFORM OF PROBLEM SOLVING. In conference “Amber industry year 2015 review and year

Bigger than ever Amber Trip this year presented 150

2016 perspective” issues of amber supply from Kaliningrad

companies from all over the world. 70 % of exhibitors were

were discussed. General Director of Kaliningrad Amber Factory

selling amber products, the rest presented precious metals,

Mikhail ZATSEPIN invited everyone to a new platform where

precious, semi-precious stones and new technologies of

issues can be discussed – First Economic Amber Forum.

jewellery making. But this exhibition is not only about sales

In a round table conference Lithuanian amber producers

and business. There is a long tradition and strong and long-

and interested parties met to discuss issues of amber extraction

term business relationships that are build in this venue.

in Ukraine. After which conference “Cooperation between

Russian ambassador in Lithuania Udaltsov Alexander and General Director of Kaliningrad Amber Factory Mikhail ZATSEPIN and General Director of Kaliningrad Amber Factory Mikhail ZATSEPIN

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LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT  Vladimir JACENKIVSKY,Ambasador of Ukraine in Lithuania; Aleksandr NOSAL, Director of International Reform Centre and Giedrius Guntorius, CEO of the Amber Trip.

Mr. and Mrs. FERN in the middle and participants of the seminar “How to buy amber?” 

Ukraine and Lithuania to develop amber industry. Amber exchange creation in Vilnius.” Ukrainian ambassador in Lithuania Volodymyr Yatsenkivskyi was happy that Lithuanian amber society has such a strong interest to share their business experience with Ukraine and hoped for a better amber market in Ukraine future.

AMBER TRIP BUYERS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD During Amber Trip exhibitors notices growing interest in amber from the Middle East. Though China still remains the

NEXT YEAR

main buyer, which could be noticed in Amber Trip as well. We

Issues that we will be discussing:

•

could think that China know amber well, but further promotion is needed. Amber Trip and its community actively work to

Amber mining and exporting legislations in Ukraine – how it impacts amber market

attract new buyers. Famous amber promoter Mrs. Vilia Fehrn and Giedrius Guntorius gave a seminar “How to buy amber?” to a group of Chinese visitors.

VILIA FERN:

“You cannot find anything more fashionable than amber”

worldwide?

•

Why nobody wants to invest in amber mining in

•

Jewellery market perspectives in Belarus – how

•

Amber auctions in Kaliningrad – how is market

•

Why demand of amber in China slowed down?

Lithuania? could Lithuania and Belarus cooperate? adapting to new rules?

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LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

By Zane PUTĀNE

CONVERSATION with a cloud

Valdis BROŽE

Art gallery Putti presents the summer exhibition „Conversation with a cloud”, on display from June 15 until September 15, 2016. The exhibition will consist of Latvian and international contemporary jewellery artists` works.

I

want to become a part of eternity. I climb up on a mountain

brooches with airplanes shooting through them. Julia Maria

and walk into a cloud. Cloud – it is a unit of measurement.

Kunnap is a Jewellery designer from Estonia – she creates

I walk into sky and take a cloud with me as memorabilia, it is

her jewellery by carving of precious stones, which turn out in

white and clear as rock crystal. With a golden thread I saw it

forms that you have never seen before. This time she surprises

to my heart as faith. I am within a miracle. Everything around

with little green sprouts that come out of stone carvings.

me flows and changes. Eternal movement. Cloud turns into

Simeon Shomov (Bulgaria) has won the hearts of Art gallery

mist and covers my childhood dreams with light pink quartz.

Putti visitors with romantic and detailed jewellery that tells

I take silver thread and saw a quartz button in my skirt – for

a story of friendship, love or other emotions. KIRAYURINA

pink dreams that are long forgotten. For hope. And then I find

(Japan) presents wonderful brooches that incorporate mirrors

cloud – as red as garnet, and I put in on my hand as a ring. For

and vibrant colours which are a great way how to complete

love. Now I search for a way back. And I make a rainbow cloud

an outfit. Akiko Kurihara (Japan) has created intricate and

bridge from ruby red, orange cornelian, yellow citrine, green

conceptual pieces that has details which are often invisible

chrysoprase, evening blue topaz, dark blue sapphire and violet

to anyone, but the wearer knows it’s there. This can serve as a

amethyst. Now I am winnowed by eternity.

small source of confidence. Gisbert Stach (Germany) presents

Different Latvian and international contemporary jewellery

very provocative pieces – in his works with amber he has been

artists participate in the exhibition “Conversation with a cloud.

experimenting with the material using it as a pigment and mold

Guntis Lauders, Māris Auniņš, Māris Šustiņš, Valdis Brože

material. In conjunction with silicone and the choice of motifs

and Andris Lauders are beloved artists from Latvia, whose

from the fast food area he transfers the traditional material to

works are always found in Art gallery Putti. They each have

the present. Panjapol Kulpapangkorn (Thailand) has created

different working techniques and styles, and they always

works as part of a project that focuses on the connection

aim for the best quality in their pieces. In the pieces made by

between a lost memory and a new created memory. He has

Gigi Mariani (Italy) contrast between geometric form and

dedicated his “Personal collection” of black flower brooches

material texture allows him to develop works that are unique

to his mother. Stacey Huang (China) participates in this

and sculptural, in which niello is the pictorial material applied

exhibition with a piece that breaks borders between art genres.

to canvases of silver and gold. Reka Lorincz (Hungary) always

A video is shown of her wearing a necklace made by her that

surprises with fresh ideas, thought provoking concepts and

contains pigeon`s favourite food. The most important part of

crazy colours. For this exhibition she has prepared pearl cloud

this artwork is how the pigeons interact with the necklace.

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72

LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Reka LORINCZ “Cloud” Brooch – gold-plated brass, pearl, alloy

Māris AUNIŅŠ Necklace – gold 585, silver 925, aquamarine

Akiko KURIHARA “Bomb” Earrings – 18kt white gold, 18kt yellow gold, electro-color pated silver

Simeon SHOMOV “Take my heart” Earrings, silver 925, 24ct golden plate, glass

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73

LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

νεῶν κατάλογος THE CATALOGUE OF SHIPS Interview with Anna FANIGINA by Odilija GUNTORIUTE

„The

Catalogue of Ships”* exhibition of Anna

Since Anna Fanigina created VERBA (“words”) jewellery

Fanigina took place at Masha Goncharova

brand, her claim to fame and essential became inscriptions

Atelier (Gangutskaya Str. 16) in Saint Petersburg, open to

in Latin. As soon as the history of this brand is more than ten

the public from May 26th to June 25th 2016. Fifty silver and

years now, the long-desired Greek collection has come, so let

electrum rings were exhibited there.

it be the only start of exciting journey.

Every ring as it were ship, that could float away together

Anna Fanigina – designer from Latvia, VERBA jewellery

with you or stay on your finger as a great friend, struggling

brand founder. Firstly received degree in mathematics, later

against the waves of daily worries and aspirations. Each ring

she graduated from Riga Arts and Crafts College metallic

is branded with its own „watermark” – a phrase in Greek,

design division.

quotation or just with some words on simple and proper things

She participated in many arts exhibitions in Latvia,

for all times – fair wind, strong canvas, courage, love and joy.

Lithuania, Russia, Finland and Italy. She is awards winner at

That’s what we are always full of after visiting the seaside, trying

Latvian Design Contests, Faberge jewelry contest in Finland

to keep this feeling long after being back from the journey, and

and “Jewellery Olympus” Contest in Saint Petersburg, Russia.

this is how we could steal a page from Ancient Greek’s book.

Anna also participated in Hermitage archeological

These inscriptions in Greek are made with micro-chase

expeditions to Crimea and Italy.

technology, as mostly marine stones are used in this collection

Her works are exhibited at Latvian decorative art and

– aquamarines, as well as heliodors, chrystolites and quartzes.

design Museum collection.

The marine theme additionally described with handmade

1)

glasse, made by special order using blow technique, furnished with sending ups on the language of Ancient Greeks.

Anna, where else do you plan to show this exhibition?

The Greek Collection «The Catalogue of Ships» is scheduled

Photos by Vladimir Svetlov

to be displayed in November in Amsterdam within the framework of the SIERAAD Exhibition, and then in Moscow.

2)

How did idea „The Catalogue of Ships” come to you?

The idea of «Greek» collection came up right after a trip

to Athens a few years ago. After seeing such an abundance of Greek letters around, familiar to me from my past involvement in physics and mathematics, I realised that they simply must appear in my accessories, but at that time I had no idea in

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74

DOPON («gift») — simply became my secret lucky charms.

Ancient Greek jewellery helped me fall in love with gold — yellow, filled with sun and light, even though silver is used to be my absolute favourite. I’m absolutely delighted with glyptic art and gemstone carving. Both the Hermitage and the British Museum have excellent collections made using this technique.

4)

How did you decide to become a jeweller?

When I entered Riga College of Applied Arts, it was very

difficult for me to choose a faculty, because I liked almost every one of them. I decided in favour of Metal Design because of the desire to do something that will serve the people for a long time and not just one generation, and perhaps will tell something about us to archaeologists of the future and maybe even confuse them a little.

Anna FANIGINA. Photo by Kirill Orlov

certain amount of time had to pass. While working with Latin

5)

words and texts that are traditionally used in VERBA jewellery

not to lose the feeling of a greater whole behind small details.

which exactly. For the collection to mature and take shape, a

What do you think is the most important trait for a jeweller?

The most important thing for a jeweller (and not only) is

is usually logical and understandable, the Greek material was

6)

not so easily «translatable» and required special attention. I had to seriously immerse in reading Greek authors and took

Could you name one jeweller who inspires you?

I’ll name two designers who inspire me. Bettina Speckner

the classes of the basic ancient Greek language and even get involved in archaeological excavations of the Greek city of

always «shoots» right into the heart. Lately, I admire Japanese

Nymphaeum as a part of the Hermitage expedition. Only then

designers such as Etsuko Sonobe.

I felt that I accumulated a sufficient amount of experience and

7)

knowledge to ensure that I’m eligible to step into this river completely new to me.

3)

What do you think are the best three galleries in the region around the Baltic sea?

A Jewellery Gallery with very long-standing traditions is the

Does antient Greek jewellery inspire you?

«A» Gallery (www.agalerii.ee) in Tallinn. There is a wonderful

Jewellery of ancient Greece inspired me for a

concept store in Riga that represents the best of Latvian design

long time, since the sensational exhibition in Moscow «The

including jewellery — a store called RIIJA (www.riija.lv). The

Treasures of Troy» in 1996 (although, as we know now, this is

Contemporary Jewellery Art Gallery PLATINA in Stockholm

not a treasure trove of King Priam, but a more ancient one).

(www.platina.se) also has an interesting view.

The Greek Hall in the Hermitage has always been my all-time favourite, and two golden children’s rings of the permanent

* “The Catalogue of Ships” is an epic list from Homer’s Iliad Book two (“song”).

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75

LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

exhibition — one labelled XAPA («joy») and the other named

ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Triinu TIISEL

The moment WHEN A PIECE OF JEWELLERY MEETS THE RIGHT OWNER… Interview with Triinu TIISEL by Odilija GUNTORIUTE

1)

4)

Triinu Tiisel, selection of jewellery in your store is explicit. Do you choose only Estonian artists?

Yes, our premier goal is to stand for Estonian (jewellery)

What kind of jewellery attracts young consummers?

Millennials form a small part of our clientele. They prefer

designers. Unless we see something really unique in

casual, fun and affordable jewellery.

neighbouring country, that will stand out and fortify our

What do you look for when you are selecting

5)

jewellery for your store?

I studied architecture and worked as an architect before

selection.

2)

You yourself are a jewellery artist – why did you choose this art form?

I am not sure.... I guess jewellery chose me. Actually

We put before designers whole imaginative journey to

entering jewellery and design world. For tremendous respect

make long term partnerships. Decision-making process is

toward jewellery artists I don`t want to call myself by that title.

actually rather subjective, mainly based on our inner voice

I see my work as a link between people and artist.

thereof difficult to explain.

3)

6)

If you had to name 5 best jewellery artists in Estonia, who would you pick?

Many jewellery artists focus on ideas and messages that they want to send with their

work. What messages do you send with you jewellery?

Tanel VEENRE, Kadri MÄLK, Darja POPOLITOVA, Urmas

My message is never stop dreaming and dream big! Get

LÜÜS, Sofia HALLIK / SOMA.

inspired by small details in everyday life and use them wisely.

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76

ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT Silver / agate necklace by Triinu TIISEL. Photo: Kristiinvisuals.Model: Janely (Starsystem)

Grow with all your experiences and failures. My journey is reflecting in my work by experimenting with construction and techniques.

7)

Which jewellery piece has given you the most sadisfaction? Why?

For me it hasn`t been one piece of jewellery but the

moment when a piece of jewellery meets the right owner. In TALI I can see it almost daily- that love at first sight, perfect fit, direct emotion. That gives me the greatest satisfaction. I try to retransmit it to the designers as much as I can. I guess it`s also one of the biggest motivators in my job.

8)

What are your thoughts on contemporary jewellery?

I can see jewellery design really blossoming here in Estonia.

We have so many artist with important messages, clever material use, substance reuse. Many fashion-, leather-, product, etc- designers starting their own jewellery lines in collaboration with jewellery artist and independently. Designers and artist are coming closer and closer to people (with a little help from

Sterling silver and amber earrings “Are you kittying me”

by Triin KUKK. Photo: Johanna Eenma

TALI and other popular design shops). Very interesting and productive time in jewellery field.

9)

Is there any art jewellery exhibition that left a

ways to approach the same subject. I saw students attitude

strong impression on you?

and commitment to creative work. Instead of seeing the final

The recent exhibition I visited took place in TALI and

result I was part of it every step of the way. Antoher impressive

was called HYPE. It was a collaboration between TALI and

exhibition is taking place at the Tallinn Art Hall at the moment,

Estonian Academy of Arts. Masters of different subject fields

named “Idealistid”, what deals with overconsuption, smart

made an accessory for TALI shop. For the first time I was so

material choices and about the idea of sustainable design

close to someone`s creative process. I saw so many different

(from jewelry to clothes design).

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77

CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT

Younger people in China are looking for more individual expression nowdays.

Traditional, generic designs do not satisfy the market anymore – what does it mean for amber industry?

CHINA JEWELLERY MARKET REPORT TRENDS

highlighted in China nowadays, consumers, especially younger

According to the Standardisation Administration of the

people, are often not satisfied with more traditional, generic

People’s Republic of China, the gold jewellery appellation

designs. Customised jewellery is widely embraced for wedding

Thousand Pure Gold has been cancelled after 14 years of

rings. For instance, Bloves, which is positioned as wedding

use. Since May 2016, all gold jewellery and the country has

ring customisation specialist, now encourages couples to look

been unified under the new appellation Pure Gold, including

back on their love story and then personally participate in the

all purity, materials, gemstones and jewellery varieties. The

design process in order to customise their exclusive wedding

cancellation of the Thousand Pure Gold collation helps to

rings.

avoid retailers using it as a marketing gimmick to raise prices and encourages consumers to focus instead on fine jewellery design and production technology.

CHINA JEWELLERY MARKET SIZE: RETAIL VALUE RSP (€ MN)

COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE

100,000

Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd retained its leading

50,000

position in jewellery in 2016 with a value share of 6 %. In order

0

to meet demand for wedding jewellery among China’s baby

2013 2014 2015 2016

forecast

boomers, who were born in the 1980s, Chow Tai Fook launched the Perfect Love collection in 2015. Together with its Soul

83,518.70 82,896.00 87,490.20 94,318.00

Love collection and Bridal collection, Chow Tai Fook now provides customised jewellery design services for weddings.

Moreover, the company has opened a marriage specialist

COMPANY SHARES RANKING ACCORDING TO RETAIL

store in mainland China, with 80 % of the products sold being

VALUE RSP

marriage related.

1. Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd

PROSPECTS

2. Lao Feng Xiang Co Ltd

During the forecast period, China’s leading jewellery

3. Shanghai Yuyuan Tourist Mart Co Ltd

companies are expected to place more emphasis on

4. Chow Sang Sang Holdings International Ltd

personalised designs. With Individuality being more

5. Zhejiang Ming Jewelry Co Ltd

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78

HONG KONG JEWELLERY MARKET REPORT TRENDS

PROSPECTS

The surging growth of retail sales of jewellery in 2013 due

Despite mainland Chinese consumers’ appetite for luxury

to the gold rush formulated a huge base for subsequent years.

jewellery for personal use remaining strong given the rising

Current value growth rates in 2014 and 2015 saw progressive

middle class, attributed to rising disposable income, Hong

decline at 8 % and 5 %, respectively. This is attributable to

Kong’s limited capacity and intense social tensions are likely

several economic factors and societal situations. The massive

to fend off affluent Chinese tourists from visiting. Furthermore,

political protests, named Occupy Central, which took place

sky-high retail rents are pushing up retail prices, and the Hong

during the fourth quarter of 2014 caused a significant

Kong currency value is expected to continue to increase,

decline in tourist numbers and the closure of retail stores in

making the city expensive for foreigners to shop. As such,

affected shopping streets. This has drawn a disappointing

jewellery sales are expected to be lacklustre rising by a value

sales performance in luxury goods, especially jewellery and

CAGR of 2 % at constant 2015 prices over the forecast period.

watches, as affluent Chinese tourists have diverted their shopping destinations to neighbouring countries. Social tensions have arisen between mainland tourists and local

HONG KONG JEWELLERY MARKET SIZE: RETAIL VALUE RSP

residents who criticised Chinese visitors’ misbehaviour in public

(€ MN)

causing disruption to locals’ daily commute. Such factors have discouraged Chinese visitors from planning trips to Hong Kong.

10,000 5,000

COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE

0

Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd was the leading

2013 2014 2015 2016

forecast

jewellery player in Hong Kong, commanding a value share of

8,796.90 7,783.20 6,842.50 5,975.40

19 % in 2014. Chow Sang Sang Holdings International Ltd followed in second position in 2015 with 12 %. Real jewellery is led by these two brands, together with the third largest player, Luk Fook Holdings (International) Ltd, which accounted

COMPANY SHARES RANKING ACCORDING TO RETAIL

for a 10 % value share in 2014. The three brands have very

VALUE RSP

positive images in the minds of mainland Chinese consumers, the largest customer group for real jewellery retail sales

1. Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group Ltd

in Hong Kong, and are perceived as creative, stylish and

2. Lao Feng Xiang Co Ltd

unique. Nevertheless, a slowdown in retail sales of luxury

3. Shanghai Yuyuan Tourist Mart Co Ltd

goods affected jewellery in 2014 and 2015, when most brands

4. Chow Sang Sang Holdings International Ltd

recorded a decrease in revenue from real jewellery.

5. Zhejiang Ming Jewelry Co Ltd

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79

CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT

Buyers in September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

SOUTH KOREAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Jewellery artist Kim JI YOUNG

BREAKING PRECONCEPTIONS about amber Interview by Odilija GUNTORIUTE with Kim JI YOUNG

1)

2)

Congratulations on winning the Amber Trip art jewellery

contest! What does it mean to you?

How did you become a jewellery designer? What/

who pushed you to pursue this path?

First I would like to express my

I have been a writer for a broadcasting

gratitude to the judges and organizers.

company for more than 20 years. I have

My win took me by surprise. While a lot

not always been able to write what I

of other contests look at an artist’s resume

wanted, so I’ve been yearning to express

and experience foremost while judging, I was grateful that the Amber Trip Contest judges placed the most value on the actual piece itself.

Amber has had a long tradition of being used

all my thoughts freely. I started studying 1st place in Amber Trip art jewellery contest “My Home” Before sunrise

in Korea and has been loved by our people since

design when I entered graduate school with my husband, who does metal craft. What I like about jewelry as a medium is that despite being small in size, it has the potential to give great joy

time immemorial. However, the downside of that is it is harder to

and touch the hearts of many people. It also has the innate

make progress on the development of amber jewelry because

power to tell an endless number of stories.

of certain expectations placed by tradition and customs. If my

I think what helped motivate me the most as a jewelry

artwork can help people look at amber in a new light, it would

designer is the passion inside of me that I have not been able

mean I made the right choice in transitioning from writer to

to express previously.

jewelry designer, and that thought motivates me to work harder

The piece that won is an extension of the long line of

as an artist. I think amber will continue to inspire my work.

work that I’ve created. I’m constantly thinking about things

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80

think it’s interesting to transform seemingly worthless materials

change, things that are defined differently depending on the

by allowing them to shine or reflect, or combining them with

perspective, and things that refuse to be standardized. I also

nature so they absorb light and transform as if they are part

place an emphasis on the importance of light. When I create,

of nature. I was happy that my work combining amber and

my husband contributes by giving me his scathing criticism

silicon received a good review from 2016 AMBERIF Honorary

and that drives me to be better.

mention and I think I am certain these materials I want to use

3)

will touch and continue to more well known.

Where did you study jewellery

7)

design?

I don’t know why, but I’ve been sketching women with

windblown hair and jewelry since I was young, and I’ve been

How did you start working with amber?

I don’t know if you know this, but Koreans loved amber

creating my own pieces since I’ve had my ears pierced. I started

so much that we used to hang large pieces of amber on our

studying earnestly in jewelry academies in Korea and the US, as

clothes instead of buttons. Amber and pumpkin are homonyms

well as at the Kookmin University Graduate School of Design.

in Korean (hobak) so it can also mean the vegetable that you

4)

brew soup or make traditional food with, and it is also a slang How do you think European and Asian art

for an ugly woman. So it’s a material that is interesting to

jewellery differ from each other?

talk about even with just its name. However, amber is not

Hmm... Well, even within European and Asian countries,

the style tends to differ in each in individual country. And in this era of globalization, I think jewelry tends to be shaped by individual art style more than the trends of one’s home country. So it’s a difficult question to answer, but if I must make a distinction, I feel European art jewelry contains a lot of wit and I feel in its core is the pursuit of freedom of form.

On the other hand, Asian art jewelry puts great effort into its shapes, and is refined and serious, as if it is trying to improve itself from the inside. Of course, this is simply my own opinion.

5)

Where do you take inspiration for your designs?

As I used to be a writer, I have the habit of trying to express

things in writing first. So when I’m creating jewelry, I am interested in expressing things you can’t see, like emotions, or the type of things you can’t express exactly in words. Thus,

Silver rings

I tend to be contemplative and deliberate when I’m creating art. Nature and the objects that surround me do inspire me,

a very accessible gemstone to a lot of Koreans because

but I put a lot of effort in trying to dwell on and expressing

there is a tendency to think of amber as being a refined,

topics like relationships with people, encounters, emotions and

cultured gemstone or as part of tradition. I enjoy breaking

other intangible things, and things you have to look closely to

preconceptions. When I was a writer, I created the nation’s first

be able to see. And I’m always listening to music. My artwork

Media Education Program where I criticized the true and false

can be seen but also heard. They each have their own sound.

ideas formed about the media. That program won an award

6)

for the best program of the year. I want people to break free With what materials do you like to work the

from their prejudices, have a more flexible mind, and pursue a

most?

wide range of beauty. So the reason I chose amber, the subject

I’ve worked with silver a lot. Silver can be shaped to be

of strong preconceptions in Korea, and created modern art

both soft and powerful, much like a versatile woman who

jewelry with it is because it is an extension of my previous

can transform herself. I also think transparent and artificial

work. I think amber has hidden layers of allure, much like an

materials like acrylics, resin, and silicon are also appealing. I

onion, and I believe it is a gemstone for the femme fatales.!

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81

SOUTH KOREAN JEWELLERY REPORT

that can only be understood by looking closely, things that

JUVELIR EXPO UKRAINE 2016 Olena BELICHENKO, Ph. D., Amber Expert of IAA,State Gemmological Centre of Ukraine Photo by Igor IEMELIANOV, State Gemmological Centre of Ukraine

On May 12–15 Ukraine traditionally held the main forum of her jewellery branch – International Exhibition “Juvelir Expo Ukraine”.

industry in the country, but also in many ways stimulated its

More than 250 companies – leading manufacturers of Ukraine and abroad, well-known jewellery houses and boutiques – participated in the exhibition. The exhibition center “KyivExpoPlaza” assembled together representatives of all segments of the industry – from manufacturers and suppliers of jewellery raw materials, equipment and packaging, to jewellery manufacturers. The exhibition “Juvelir Expo Ukraine” was attended by over 22 000 visitors.

company “Kyiv International Contract Fair” Vladimir Ivanov

development. Nowadays it is the largest exhibition in Ukraine representing the jewellery industry.

Opening the exhibition, chairman of the organizing said: “Despite the unstable economic situation in the country, we managed to keep the jewellery industry and exhibition business of the country, all that is regional exhibitions and the Kiev central one – “Juvelir Expo Ukraine”. The leading nationwide jewellery forum, as compared with last year, increased its volumes by 20 % and now covers an area of over 8,000 m2. The exhibition covers

Juvelir Expo Ukraine is an exhibitory forum that combines the two exhibition formats: B2B (activities designed for professionals, business representatives), and B2C (activities designed for end-users). The exhibition presents a wide range of jewelry, accessories and equipment reflecting the most advanced achievements and progressive ideas.

Throughout its existence, the exhibition “Juvelir Expo Ukraine” has not only reflected the state of the jewellery

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82

Great interest was a workshop “Safety of the Jewellery

brought together over 250 leading jewellery companies from

Business”. The speakers were: managing partner of the Lawyers

almost all regions of Ukraine”.

Association “Klotchkov and partners” Vladimir Klotchkov and

The exhibition provided the visitors with an opportunity

partner of the Lawyers Association Anastasia Gurska. The

to get acquainted with the trends of jewellery art as well

Lawyers Association has been actively protecting the rights

as purchase all sorts of jewellery from precious metals,

of citizens of Ukraine for two years already.

diamond jewellery and precious stones, exclusive author’s

Ukrainian developers presented their invention – a clever

works introduced by both well-known companies and private

device jewellery pendant SenStone. With help of a unique

jewelers.

device everyone will be able to convert voice recordings into

Especially for “BJnews” readers it should be noted that

text. Thanks to the pendant, it is now possible to record your

the amber industry was represented by State Enterprise

own notes on the move, without need of taking the phone.

“Burshtyn Ukrainy” (“Ukrainian Amber”). Its exposition

SenStone understands keywords and topics and accordingly

traditionally attracted general attention by its wide selection

sorts them in a convenient way. The pendant supports constant

of products presented by articles of gold and silver with

30-minute message recording; moreover, it recognizes 7

amber and exclusive amber souvenirs alike. As concerns other

languages and holds a battery charge for up to 3 days. It is

companies belonging to non-state sector of amber industry

possible to give the gadget various commands, for example,

in Ukraine, they, unfortunately, were practically absent from

write an email or make a blog entry.

this exhibition.

As part of the 31-th exhibition “Juvelir Expo Ukraine”, they held a traditional All-Ukrainian Sketch Competition for Best Jewellery Design which determines the jewellery trend development in Ukraine – in fact, it gathers the jewellery designers who get the chance to show their talent and declare itself to the whole country. This year, more than 100 works were submitted for the competition.

Announcing the winners of the competition, the Chairman of the competition committee, President of the Jewellery Association of Ukraine Gregory Mazharovsky said: “Such an event as it is today – a very honourable and meaningful for all of the country’s jewellers. The main task of the contest is to find talented capable people. The task of the jury members is to help the promotion of talented individuals in the jewellery expanses of the country. I want to thank the team of the company that

Great interest among specialists and professionals of the

organized the competition “Kyiv International Contract Fair”. I

jewellery branch caused seminars on the history and modern

wish you all success and creative ideas for future work“.

methods of jewellery design.

Every year the exhibition organizers prepare for the

At the master class “How to create a website selling

participants and visitors a variety of seminars, workshops,

jewellery, successfully bring it online and increase sales using

round tables and conferences with the participation and

the power of the Internet and social networks”, the listeners

assistance of the leading representatives of the jewellery

learned about the important components in the network

business.

business.

Not for the first year in the framework of the state’s major

State Gemmological Centre of Ukraine traditionally

jewellery exhibition “Juvelir Expo Ukraine” for its guests and

provided an opportunity for anyone who wishes to use the

participants, the jeweller artist enameller, Master of Arts and

services of gemmological express-laboratory for free and

Crafts Aleksandra Barbalat performs her master classes. Indeed,

check their purchased precious gems.

within the two days of the exhibition everyone could attend the

“Kyiv International Contract Fair”, the company-organizer

master classes and make unique decorations in the technique

of the “Juvelir Expo Ukraine” exhibition, is waiting for the

of hot enamel for themselves and their beloved ones with

participants and visitors on the 15–17 November 2016 at the

their own hand.

“Juvelir Expo Ukraine” (autumn)!

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83

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

almost all segments of the jewellery market in the country and

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Coloured gemstones in Gemworld Munich

UKRAINE’S JEWELLERY MARKET REPORT TRENDS

-13 % volume CAGR in the review period. Ukrainians, restricted

In 2016, many Ukrainians had very strict personal budgets

in means, are likely to remain economical even in the long term

to buy first necessity products such as food and drink,

as consumer income levels are unlikely to return to pre-crisis

medicines, transportation fees, and communal utilities. They

levels in the short term.

economised heavily on a number of products, including jewellery. Jewellery saw a third consecutive year of volume decline (-10 % in 2016 following -34 % in 2015).

UKRAINE’S JEWELLERY MARKET SIZE: RETAIL VALUE RSP (€ MN)

COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPE In 2015, jewellery is led by Zolotoy Vek PP with a 12 % retail

4,000

value share, reflecting a three-percentage point increase from

1,000

the previous year. The company’s success is due to its entering

0

both jewellery manufacturing and retailing, and the recent

2013 2014 2015 2016

forecast

rapid expansion of Zolotoy Vek (translated to English as Golden Age) chain, which allowed a much better reach to consumers.

1,219.20 1,218.80 871.00 762.50

As of May 2016, the company has 267 outlets located in 102 cities within Ukraine. The chain Zolotoy Vek was awarded the Best Jewellery Chain in Ukraine by the National Award Retail Awards “Consumer Choice”. In July 2015, Zolotoy Vek

COMPANY SHARES RANKING ACCORDING TO RETAIL

PP entered the silver jewellery segment with the opening of

VALUE RSP

the chain Sribny Vik (translation: Silver Age). It had 130 stores 1. Zolotoy Vek PP

in 44 cities of Ukraine as of May 2016.

2. Kyivskiy Yuvelirny Zavod PAT

PROSPECTS

3. Lvivskiy Derzhavniy Yuvelirniy Zavod DP

In the forecast period, jewellery volume sales are expected

4. Stolychna Yuvelirna Fabryka TOV 5. Zarina Group SA

to grow at a 5 % CAGR, which is a better performance than the

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84

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

UKRAINIAN AMBER – billion–dollar issues and solutions

By Vitaliy PETROVSKY

mining is much higher than mining of semiprecious stones in the Baltic zone.

Today

During the last four years the share of Ukrainian fossils at the Ukrainian amber becomes the main

world market has increased three times. A consistent tendency of

factor that could have a favourable

strengthening of Ukrainian amber at the market of semiprecious

impact on the future of the Ukrainian economy and its

stones is observed. The only and essential shortcomings of the

image. And maybe, it could have a contrary effect: in case

current situation are the ways of mining gemstones in Ukraine,

the criminals win this struggle Ukraine will lose its authority

legalisation of mined minerals at the market.

and the economy will suffer.

The amber industry in Ukraine was in a loss-making

According to the data of geologists at the leading

condition for a decade. It was affected by the deficiency

international institutes and commercial organisations, Ukraine

of money for funding technical re-equipment of the state

has vast natural deposits of this fossil. The peculiarity of this

enterprise. Most mining activities became illegal, the state

situation is that the amber mined at Ukrainian deposits is

share in mining of the fossil decreased dramatically, giving

unique due to its features and quality.

the way to an illegal mining. The emergence of vast quantities

Note: amber deposits and formations in Ukraine occupy

of illegally mined amber in the country caused an explosion

territories comparable in size with the territories of such countries

of sun stone contraband. Underground miners became an

as Belgium and the Netherlands. The size of individual nuggets

important component of amber industry, entire clans and

found at the deposits in Rovenshina and Volyn comprises 10–15

groupings, controlling amber mining and processing and

cm. The finds with the size reaching 18–20 cm are often.

earning huge profits in foreign currency, emerged. The price

The majority of minerals mined in Ukraine are jewellery

of 1 kg of unprocessed mineral at the black market comprises

raw materials, 1–8 cm sized stones. A particularly rich colour

300–400 USD. Amber of a technical quality is sold at a lower

scale increases the value of amber of the Ukrainian origin.

price ranging from 50 to 250 USD. Appearing illegally in the

Stones of more than 20 different colourings are found. The

foreign countries as Poland and China, Ukrainian amber

most valuable are bright yellow stones with shades of green

turns into several thousand dollars priced goods. The loss

and red. Such colour combinations are not found anywhere

of the industry due to illegal actions of shadow miners and

else. Considering the fact, that mineral formations lie at small

contraband comprised more than 250 million dollars in

depths, almost on the surface, profitability of Ukrainian amber

2014–2015.

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86

“I have assigned a service of geology and depths a task to prepare this information, put it on the map and compare it

local authorities. Illegal amber business in the country has

with a cadastral map. It will allow deciding about a possibility

reached the state scale relying on influential patrons at the

of selling special permissions on these territories by open

capital authorities.

competitions. Those who pay more will get a right to mine.

Starting from the beginning of this year the quantity of

And the state will control keeping the ecological, financial

illegally mined amber costing more than 20 million dollars was

and fiscal law and etc. At the moment we are waiting for this

confiscated and the number of detained illegal miners exceeded

map,” – the Minister concluded.

100 persons. According to the Ministry of Internal Affairs, more

Gosgeonedra also supports opening of amber market in

than 10 thousand persons are involved in such schemes.

Ukraine. We suggest providing large investors an opportunity

In the beginning of July the largest special operation

to mine amber. In case of issuing special permissions to perform

to struggle with amber mafia was undertaken. More than

geological research of amber, the market of barbarous amber

300 field investigators of the Ministry of Internal Affairs and

mining will be replaced by a socially responsible user of

Security Service of Ukraine, including more than 40 fighters

subsoils. He could involve the local population in the work.

of Special Forces Alpha, have conducted 123 searches in flats

The security control will be in place. The local people will be

and at workplaces of suspects in creating an organized criminal

able to earn legally instead of risking their lives and freedom

grouping in Rovno region. “It is only the beginning of war with

every day. It was claimed by Nikolay Boyarkin, acting as a head

amber mafia in shoulder straps”, – the head of Security Service

of Gosgeonedra.

of Ukraine Vasily Gritsak has assured. The deputy prosecutor of

Otherwise, in one or two years there will be nothing to

Rovno region Andrey Borovyk and lieutenant colonel of secret

mine there. If investors come, amber prospectors will earn

service department at Security Service of Ukraine in Rovno

slightly less than now. The earnings are assumed to decrease by

region were the first detained suspects in organising a criminal

30 %. However, they could work legally without fear and bribes.

amber mining group. Several bags of amber, equipment for

Today people parish there, fighting and shooting regularly

amber mining and many other things were withdrawn.

take place because there are no rules and laws. And with the

According to the general prosecutor of Ukraine Yury

coming of investors people will get an opportunity: they will

Lutsenko, such operations are only the beginning and they

earn seniority, pensions; taxes will be payed to the local budget.

will be conducted in all regions where amber is being obtained.

AMBER LEGISLATION WHAT SHOULD BE DONE? AND HOW TO LEGALISE

situation is a bill “On Amber” which has been in Verkhovna Rada

The first official attempt to find a way out of the current

The Minister of Internal Affairs of Ukraine Arsen Avakov

of Ukraine since 2010. Many decisions of the Government of

supported the legalisation of amber mining. “The Minister of

Ukraine on the legalisation of sun stone mining in the country

Ecology has already developed a new national conception of

have been adopted today.

regulating amber mining”, – Avakov reported. “The national

The main task which is being solved by the state is

conception suggests to eliminate all those speculators and

legalisation of activities of ‘black miners’. Elimination of

bandits who buy up an illicit amber from the population

monopolies of state enterprises at the major deposits will

and also those who illegally resells it from the market”, – he

essentially decrease the attractiveness of these objects for

explained.

raiders. It will create an opportunity for foreign private investors

According to Avakov, a key state function for purchase and

to enter the market. Currently, more than 3 bills regulating the

certification of amber to sell it abroad should be introduced.

development of amber industry in the country have been

He also noted that the licensing of amber miners in order to

submitted to committees of Verkhovna Rada of Ukraine;

preserve an opportunity of earnings for the local population

effective measures for practical application of a convenient

should be provided.

taxpaying system for local miners have been proposed.

“If it is possible to mine amber legally, the number of

One of these bills, namely 1351–1, is anticipated to be

(mining) crimes will decrease dramatically”, – he added.

adopted in the second reading in autumn; and in general

According to the Minister of Ecology and Natural Resources

Ukraine is supposed to enter the legal market of mining and

Ostap Semerak, the concept of offering amber sites to auction

selling of amber.

is currently being developed.

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87

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

More than 60 tons of amber is mined illegally per year by using illegally acquired licenses and connivance of the

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

Official Price for raw amber by

Kaliningrad Amber Combine August 2016

AMBER FROM RUSSIA Regular Amber Piece Size

Price/1 kg – EUR

+4 – 11.5 mm fraction

12

+11,5 mm fraction

60

+14 mm fraction

100

+16 mm fraction

210

2,5 g – 5 g

260

5 g – 10 g

340

10 g – 20 g

650

20 g – 50 g

1,300

50 g – 100 g

1,910

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88

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Price for

Raw Amber August 2016

AMBER FROM RUSSIA Regular Amber Piece Size

Price / 1 kg – EUR

+5 mm fraction

10

+6 mm fraction

15

+8 mm fraction

40

+11,5 mm fraction

80

+14 mm fraction

130

+16 mm fraction

250

2,5 g – 5 g

350

5 g – 10 g

600

10 g – 20 g

1,200

20 g – 50 g

2,200

50 g – 100 g

3,000

100 g – 200 g

3,800

200 g – 300 g

4,500

300 g – 500 g

5,000

FACTIONS 20–50 G RAW AMBER PRICE CHANGE 2006 FERBRUARY – 2016 AUGUST 4300 3900 3500 3100 2700 2300 1900 1500 1100 700 300

2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 06 08 03 08 03 06

If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: info@balticjewellerynews.com

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Price for

Raw Amber August 2016

AMBER FROM UKRAINE Regular Amber Piece Size

Price / 1 kg – EUR

2,5 g – 5 g

300

5 g – 10 g

500

10 g – 20 g

1,100

20 g – 50 g

2,000

50 g – 100 g

2,600

100 g – 200 g

3,600

AMBER FROM POLAND Regular Amber Piece Size

Price / 1 kg – EUR

2,5 g – 5 g

400

5 g – 10 g

650

10 g – 20 g

1,250

20 g – 50 g

2,300

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90

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Price for

Raw Amber August 2016

WHITE ROUND AMBER BALLS Regular Amber Piece Size

Price / 1 g – EUR

5 mm – 7 mm

4

7 mm – 10 mm

6

10 mm – 12 mm

9

12 mm – 15 mm

11

15 mm – 20 mm

17

20 mm and larger

20

COGNAC ROUND AMBER BALLS Regular Amber Piece Size

Price / 1 g – EUR

5 mm – 10 mm

3

10 mm – 15 mm

6

15 mm – 20 mm

11

20 mm and larger

14

www.balticjewellerynews.com

91

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Price for

Amber Silver 925 Jewellery August 2016

Amber Silver 925 Jewellery

Price/g EUR

Handmade 1,6 Machine made

1,1

AMBER SILVER 925 JEWELLERY PRICE CHANGE AUGUST 2010 – AUGUST 2016 EUR / g 3

2

1

0

2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 08 03 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08

Handmade

Machine made

SILVER PRICE CHANGE 2012 AUGUST – AUGUST 2016 EUR per Ounce 40

30

20

10

0

2012 03

08

2013 03

08

2014 03

08

2015 03

08

2016 03

www.quandl.com

If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: info@balticjewellerynews.com

08

Gold Price Montly avarage gold price change 2014–2016

EUR per troy ounce 1200

1100

1000

900

800

2014 2015 2016

10 11 12 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 01 02 03 04 05 06 invest@gold.org

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93

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide

INTERNATIONAL AMBER ASSOCIATION REPORT

A NEW AMBER GALLERY in Gdańsk!

By Anna SOBECKA

Maria FIJAŁKOWSKA – Egg IAA Gallery during

EXACTLY today,

Heidemarie HERB – Time

one year

Dorota Kos, Maria Fijałkowska (Moja Forma), Prof. Sławomir

ago from

Fijałkowski, Prof. Andrzej Szadkowski and Marcin Wesołowski

a new gallery was opened where

(NAC Amber), along with the works by the following artists:

art and design exhibitions are now held. The

Paulina Binek, Marta Bogusz and Eugeniusz Gowkielewicz,

International Amber Association’s Gallery

Dorota Cenecka (Gin Atelier), Aleksander Gliwiński, Barbara

is located at the very heart of Gdańsk – at

Gronuś-Dutko, Eugeniusz Kreja (Amber Apple), Jacek Ostrowski,

1 Warzywnicza Street.

Andrzej Pacak, Eryk Popkiewicz, Robert Rogała (Amber

The opening of the first exhibition in

Mix), Piotr Wajcht (Galeria Nord Amber Anny Najder), Marta

the new premises was held on 26 March

Włodarska (Amberwood) and Ditta Zimmerman. The exhibition

2015. The guests were welcomed by IAA

also included works by the members of our association

Board members and the first speech

who work abroad: Heidemarie Herb and Cherry Hu (Yinpo),

was given by the president – Mariusz

who submitted sculptures made from Mexican amber. The

Drapikowski. Various pieces of work were

interest in the exhibition and the number of visitors on the

presented during the exhibition, starting

exhibition’s official opening day surprised even the organizers

with the works by IAA founders, including

themselves.

Mariusz Gliwiński (Ambermoda), Giedymin

The Amber and Form companion catalogue was prepared

Jabłoński, Narcyz Kalski and from the largest

for the exhibition and included the descriptions and photos

companies, including Wojciech Kalandyk’s

of all the presented pieces. Hopefully, this catalogue will

Art 7 or Adam Pstrągowski’s S&A, and

become a valuable document and an attractive presentation

especially the works by IAA supporters:

of exceptional works presented during the exhibition.

Andrzej SZADKOWSKI broach–Double

Sławomir FIJAŁKOWSKI – Bloody Cherry

Giedymin JABŁOŃSKI object – To climb

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94

INTERNATIONAL AMBER ASSOCIATION REPORT Mariusz GLIWIŃSKI – Magic Box

Paweł KACZYŃSKI ring

Another exhibition – Amber Around the World, which was

be not only visited by the IAA members and their friends but

opened on 28 August 2015 – was organized by Janusz Fudala

that it will also be widely known, open and attractive to the

and Anna Sado in cooperation with the Polish Goldsmithing

local community and tourists alike.

Artists’ Association (STFZ); it was an exceptional presentation

With the help of the exhibitions organised in Warzywnicza

of the works by modern artists who mostly work with Baltic

Street, we want the new IAA head office to become an

amber; they also used other fossil resins as creative material

important amber promotion centre, and the jewellery made

for this exhibition: Dominican amber and Sumatran amber.

from this remarkable gemstone to be associated with high

Visitors were fascinated with the wonderful works of Jacek

quality, originality and good design. Our aim is to make

Byczewski, Danka Czapnik, Sławomir Fijałkowski, Paweł

people – the members of our association and all the others

Kaczyński, Wojciech Kalandyk and Maciej Rozenberg (Art 7),

who are interested in these unique fossilized resins – feel

Andrzej Kupniewski, Sława Tchórzewska and Marcin Tymiński.

welcome at the IAA Gallery.

The last official exhibition opening of 2015 – The Amber

This year, which marks twenty years of the IAA, the main

Chamber exhibition prepared by IAA member Heidemarie

goal of the Board and the Gallery is and will be to organize

Herb – was held at the IAA Gallery on 4 December. The

an anniversary exhibition, and I sincerely invite all those who

exhibition was open until the end of January and included

are gathered here to visit it.

artists from Austria, the Netherlands and Germany, some of whom, after some persuasion from the curator, worked

Emilia KOHUT necklace

with this unique material – Baltic amber for the first time in their lives. Some artists whose works were presented during the exhibition have already used this material before and already had links with Gdańsk. The works of Heidemarie Herb, Beate Klockmann and Philip Sajet or Gisbert Stach and Petra Zimmermann are well known by the local audience. Other artists: Elisabeth Defner, Christiane Förster, Herman Hermsen, Helfried Kodré and Piotr Skibic were also charmed by the properties of amber, which is why they created particularly inspiring and meaningful pieces.

During the first year of the International Amber Association’s Gallery, Warzywnicza Street had no shortage of important and, in my opinion, informative events. I hope

The last occasion to see this exhibition will be Exhibition closing event – Friday, the 26th of August, 8 pm.

that the coming years, as well as the newly prepared exhibits and catalogues, will make the IAA Gallery an integral part of the cultural landscape of the city of Gdańsk, and that it will

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95

ANCIENT FLOWERING PLANT WAS BEAUTIFUL – but PROBABLY POISONOUS Press release by OSU College of Science

Researchers today announced in the journal Nature Plants the discovery of the first-ever fossil specimens of an “asterid” – a group of flowering plants that gave us everything from the potato to tomatoes, tobacco, petunias and our morning cup of coffee.

But

these two 20–30 million-year-old fossil flowers, found perfectly preserved in a piece of amber, came

from the dark side of the asterid group – they belong to the genusStrychnos, which ultimately gave rise to some of the world’s most famous poisons, including strychnine and curare.

Poisons that would later find their way into blow-gun weapons, rat control, Sherlock Holmes stories and the movie “Psycho” appear to have had some of their ancestral and biological roots in the prehistoric jungles of what’s now the Dominican Republic, researchers say.

“The specimens are beautiful, perfectly preserved fossil flowers, which at one point in time were borne by plants that lived in a steamy tropical forest with both large and small trees, climbing vines, palms, grasses and other vegetation,” said George Poinar, Jr., a courtesy professor in the College of

Asterid amber fossil, this is the first fossil ever discovered of the “asterid” family of flowering plants, preserved in amber from 20–30 million years ago

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96

experts on plant and animal life forms preserved in amber.

“Specimens such as this are what give us insights into the ecology of ecosystems in the distant past,” Poinar said.

“It shows that the asterids, which later gave humans all types

80,000 SPECIES

of foods and other products, were already evolving many millions of years ago.”

Asterids, the researchers noted in this study, are among Earth’s most important and diverse plants, with 10 orders, 98

vines, mostly in the tropics. They are still being studied for

families, and about 80,000 species. They represent about one-

medicinal properties, such as for the treatment of parasitic

third of all the Earth’s diversity of angiosperms, or flowering

worm infections and even as drugs to treat malaria.

plants.

The discovery of these two fossil flowers, researchers said,

And one ancient genus, which has now been shown to be

suggests that many other related plant families could have

inherently toxic, existed for millions of years before humans

evolved in the Late Cretaceous in tropical forests. Their fossil

appeared on the planet.

remains, however, still await discovery.

“Species of the genus Strychnos are almost all toxic in

The co-author of this study, Lena Struwe, is an expert on

some way,” Poinar said. “Each plant has its own alkaloids with

plants in the strychnine family, Loganiaceae, and is a plant

varying effects. Some are more toxic than others, and it may

biologist at Rutgers University.

be that they were successful because their poisons offered some defense against herbivores.

“Today some of these toxins have been shown to possess

Top of flower

useful and even medicinal properties.”

As natural poisons that humans came to understand and use, two extracts from plants in the Strychnosgenus ultimately became famous – strychnine and curare.

Strychnine had practical uses for decades as a pesticide, and was often the deadly component of rat poison. But it also captured the imagination of writers, and was used by Norman Bates in the movie “Psycho” to kill his mother and her male companion. In small doses, it can increase mental and muscular activity.

Curare has an even stranger history. Sir Walter Raleigh may have first encountered it in 1596 when he observed poison arrows in South America, where natives also developed the poison in blowgun darts to paralyze hunted prey.

Curare was featured as the murder weapon in one Sherlock Holmes novel, and in lower doses it has been used as a muscle relaxant in surgery.

There are now about 200 species of Strychnos plants around the world, in forms ranging from shrubs to trees and woody climbing

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97

INCLUSIONS

Asterids, the researchers noted in this study, are among Earth’s most important and diverse plants, with 10 ORDERS, 98 FAMILIES, and about

Science at Oregon State University, and one of the world’s

A M B E R INCLUSIONS

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OUR JEWELLERY IS ‘’AMBITIOUS’’ An Interview with Wojciech KALANDYK by Anna SADO

www.balticjewellerynews.com

100 Cupprum necklace

1)

PERSONALITY

We realise our own passions and ambitions and at the same time we fulfil our consumers’ xpectations – this is the secret of the Art 7 company’s success. The company that has been using avant-garde design in amber jewellery for over 30 years.

At the Amberif trade fair in March this year, Art7 showed the BLACK DRESS collection

that consisted of 18 pieces that were more than just jewellery. What are you going to surprise the buyers and visitors of the Ambermart in August?

With other designs that belong to this experimental collection – the BLACK DRESS is constantly developed: although it evolves around the idea of “black amber”, it is really diverse in its design. We will show selected older models, the ones that have been most popular among the consumers, such as the CONCLAVE necklace – the winner of the Mercurius Gedanensis 2014 award, or SEVENSPACES from 2010, which is

Wojciech KALANDYK

a tribute to the architectonic trend of Daniel Libeskind. The products in this collection are individual – each of them has been created after a long consultation of the whole team and a

Ribnitz-Damgarten, which we opened in May this year. We

few weeks of work. It is a flagship collection. However, we try to

were even a bit surprised by the reactions, as the Germans are

find similar aesthetics in our commercial collections – the latest

considered to be traditionalists in the field of amber jewellery.

ones of which have been inspired by spatial geometrical forms.

Contact with the public and the unique energy that is created

2)

then are really motivating. We feel similar emotions during Art7 is amber avant-garde – is it difficult to

“releasing” our jewellery. Under the slogan “Amber in the

surpass yourself?

Public Space” we present our collections in such places that

It’s certainly not easy (laughs). Though, so far we’ve been

will enable the people who don’t visit trade fairs or are not –

quite successful at it. We find it especially motivating to know

yet? – clients of jewellery galleries, to see them. Their reactions

that what we do is well received by consumers. Recently,

are especially valuable to us, and conversations with them are

we’ve had a chance to see that at the vernissage of the ART7

inspirations for the next collections. We know what women

BLACK DRESS exhibition at the German Amber Museum in

want and we try to offer it to them.

Lanta rings

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101

4)

Art7 used innovative design at the time when most amber companies seemed not

understand the meaning of that word yet...

It wasn’t exactly the case that we decided to use design

PERSONALITY

because at some point it had become important. For years, we have been constantly developing a line of experimental jewellery simultaneously to developing the more commercial lines, which also originate from our experiments with design, but on a smaller scale. It is a long-term process, the resultant of many factors rather than a conscious decision that: “from now on we will use design”. It is also a result of our approach to jewellery and creativity of the people who create our company.

We have always wanted to develop, explore, and be open to other fields – art, architecture, music. In other words, it is a different level of communicating with the consumer of our jewellery. We also want to leave some kind of heritage, it isn’t just profit calculation.

LUL necklace

5)

Liquid black ring

How do you evaluate that decision today?

Well! We have managed to create a kind of thought space

that allows us to devote to design. In this way we realise our own passions and ambitions, and at the same time we fulfil our consumers’ expectations. And they have started to appreciate good design in jewellery – last year we observed an increased interest in the experimental lines, not only BLACK DRESS, but also other designs, which were created many years ago.

BLACK DRESS has fulfilled its role of the flagship collection and has become our showcase. Thanks to it the Art7 company has become more recognisable, in our country and abroad – only recently we have received invitations to exhibitions in Kaliningrad, Dalian in northern China and ESKILSTUNA in Sweden. It’s hard to think about a better form of appreciation...

3)

I understand that women’s opinions are important, however I get the impression that

you design jewellery that is first of all in accordance

BLACK DRESS is a collection that has been built for the

with your sense of aesthetics: far from typical amber

last 5 years at the Art7 company in Gdańsk. It currently

commercialism, and addressed to the more demanding

consists of 19 unique necklaces and rings, inspired by

consumer.

the unique structure of black amber. The name of the

I don’t agree that our jewellery is difficult in reception, it is

collection refers to the famous “Little Black Dress” by

simply “ambitious”. We do what we feel in our souls, but clients’

Coco Chanel: the designers at Art7 aim to rise amber,

reactions are also very important to us. Combining those two

which is still underrated, to the rank of luxurious jewellery,

things rarely happens in business, and it’s even rarer in the

through a unique project, simple design, as well as non-

jewellery industry. It looks like we are really lucky to be able

standard cuts and the use of precious materials.

to successfully realise our concept: to create jewellery that appeals not only to us, but also the consumer.

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102

CARTOON

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104

Gold Silver Watch Date: 3–6 July 2016 Venue: Helsinki Exhibition and Convention Centre, Helsinki, Finland http://www.messukeskus.com info@finnexpo.fi

Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Date: 13–17 September 2016 Venue: Sep 15–19 AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Kong SAR www.jewellerynetasia.com salesjgf-hk@ubm.com

JUNWEX Date: 1–5 February 2017 Venue: ExpoForum Convention and Exhibition Centre, St. Petersburg, Russia eng.rjexpert.ru overdeas@restec.ru

Copenhagen Jewellery and Watch Show Date: 19–21 August 2016 Venue: Lokomotivvaerkstedet, Copenhagen, Denmark www.cphjs.dk info@cphjws.dk

JUNWEX Moscow Date: 28 September – 2 October 2016 Venue: All Russian Exhibition Center, Moscow, Russia www.restec.ru/junwex overseas@restec.ru

Signature Mumbai 2017 Date: 3–6 February 2017 Venue: Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, India www.iijs-signature.org signature@gjepcindia.com

Gold Silver Time Date: 29 September – 1 October 2016 Venue: Warsaw, Poland www.zlotosrebroczas.com w.gontarska@mct.com.pl

The Jewellery Show Date: 5–9 February 2017 Venue: Birmingham, United Kingdom www.jewelleryandwatchbirmingham.com sales@thejewelleryshow.com

Intergem Date: 30 September – 3 October, 2016 Venue: Messe Idar-Oberstein, Idar-Oberstein, Germany www.intergem.de office@intergem.de

Inhorgenta Munich Date: 18– 21 February 2017 Venue: Messe Munchen, Munich, Germany www.inhorgenta.com info@inhorgenta.de

Ambermart – International Amber Fair Date: 25–27 August 2016 Venue: Amber Expo, Gdansk, Poland ambermart.amberexpo.pl amberif@mtgsa.com.pl The Norwegian Gold & Watch Trade Fair Date: 26–28 August 2016 Venue: Norway Trade Fairs and Thon Hotel Arena www.gull-og-ur-messe.no info@gull-og-ur-messe.no Japan Jewellery Fair Date: 1–3 September 2016 Venue: Tokyo Big Sight Exhibition Center, Tokyo, Japan www.japanjewelleryfair.com info@japanjewelleryfair.com International Jewellery London Date: 4–6 September 2016 Venue: Olympia, London, United Kingdom www.jewellerylondon.com ijl.helpline@reedexpo.co.uk Bangkok Gems and Jewelry Fair Date: 7– 11 September 2016 Venue: Impact Exhibition and Convention Center, Bangkok, Thailand bangkokgemsfair.com info@bangkokgemsfair.com Iberjoya Date: 7–11 September 2016 Venue: Feria de Madrid, Madrid, Spain www.ifema.es/madridjoya_01 madridjoya@ifema.es JOGS Fall Gem & Jewelry Show Date: 8–11 September 2016 Venue:Tucson, USA jogsshow.com info@jogsshow.com

Istanbul Jewelry Show October Date: 13–16 October 2016 Venue: Istanbul Fair Center (CNR Expo), Istanbul, Turkey www.ubmrotaforte.com info-rotaforte@ubm.com

Asia’s Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair Date: 1–4 March 2017 Venue: AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Kong SAR www.asiafja.com salesafj-hk@ubm.com

Gemworld Munich 2016 Date: 28–30 October 2016 Venue: Munich Trade Fair Center, Munich, Germany munichshow.com exhibitor@munichshow.com

XII International Baltic Jewellery Show “Amber Trip” Date: 15– 18 March 2017 Venue: Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva, Vilnius, Lithuania www.ambertrip.com ad@ambertrip.com

Jeweller Expo Ukraine Date: 17–20 November 2016 Venue: Kyiv Expo Plaza Exhibition Center, Kiev, Ukraine www.jewellerexpo.kiev.ua jewel@kmkya.kiev.ua

Istanbul Jewelry Show Munich Date: 16–19 March 2017 Venue: Istanbul Fair Center (CNR Expo), Istanbul, Turkey www.ubmrotaforte.com info-rotaforte@ubm.com

Mineralien Hamburg Date: 9–11 December 2016 Venue: CCH – Congress Center Hamburg, Germany mineralien-hamburg.de lara.meske@hamburg-messe.de

AMBERIF International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones Date: 22–25 March 2017 Venue: Gdansk, Poland www.mtgsa.com.pl amberif@mtgsa.com.pl

VICENZAORO 2017 Date: 20–25 January 2017 Venue: Fiera Di Vicenza, Vicenza, Italy www.vicenzaoro.com info@vicenzafiera.it

HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show Date: 2–6 March 2017 Venue: Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Hong Kong SAR www.hktdc.com/fair/hkjewellery-en exhibitions@hktdc.org

www.balticjewellerynews.com

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MAJOR JEWELLERY TRADE FAIRS

MAJOR JEWELLERY TRADE FAIRS in August 2016 – March 2017

AMBER TRIP PARTY

Yan HUO YAN and Giedrius GUNTORIUS

FLASHBACKS

from

AMBER TRIP PARTY

Amber Trip team: Liudmila, Jurgita, Olga, Izidorius, Jurgita, Jarekas, Klotilda and LÄ—ja Abdullrazaq JARKHI, Giedrius GUNTORIUS and Abdulaziz ALSHAMALI

WEN PING YU, Vilia FEHRN, Soren FEHRN and Li DAI Jean ORSERO

Peter H. ERNST

Natalija ILTSUK, Vladimir STARTSEV and Rūta CIKANAVIČIENĖ Jassim BOUHAMAD

Paweł MARKOWSKI, Łukasz KĘPIŃSKI and Adam KUCHARSKI Ahmad ALI

Inui SHIGEFUMI and Koinuma TAKASHI

Balashov VADIM and Kholopova MARIYA

Astrid FOURNEL and Robin FOURNEL

Salvatore CONTE and Grzegorz WYDRA

XIV INTERNATIONAL BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW

“AmberTrip”

MARCH 15–18, 2017 €

P i Casino

WC

VILNIUS, LITHUANIA

Tel. +370 618 535 38 info@ambertrip.com www.ambertrip.com

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