Baltic Jewellery News (March 2017) No. 32

E XC LUSI V E M AG A Z I N E F O R T H E J E W EL L ERY B USI N E SS I N T H E BA LT I C SE A R E G I O N

March 2017 (32)

FASTEST WAY TO THE BALTIC SEA REGION!

Earing and composition by Giedymin Jablonski

A M B E R T R I P A R T J E W E L L E R Y C O N T E S T/ E X H I B I T I O N

Nature morte or still life, a genre commonly associated with painting, has been present in art from the earliest times. Contemporary artists still explore the topic with all its symbolic tradition as well as new connotations in different media. We asked jewellers and artists to explore this topic in jewellery form. There are very few works of contemporary art jewellery associated with nature morte. It may mean that such a subject is not an easy one for makers but it certainly is an interesting and inspiring one. Equally, amber, the recommended material (though not obligatory) fits well into the topic as it is itself often contains the fossilized remains of ancient life – and could be called a natural nature morte.

For more information about the traveling exhibition and where it will be shown:

+37061607506, office@balticjewellerynews.com

Quo Vadis Amber?

The

closer the spring edition of the amber trade

Other possibilities to explore new foreign markets (India) and to

fair comes, the more niggling the questions

extend contacts (China, the USA, and Russia) are opening up for

about the future of the amber industry become. The boom

Polish amber jewellery producers who decide to participate in

that could be observed for the last 3 years on the amber market

the support programme for the years 2017–2019. The maximum

in China has finished just as suddenly as it began. What next?

amount of financial aid to cover part of the promotional costs by the programme is 1 million PLN (about 250,000 EUR).

In the last few years, jewellery producers and amber trade intermediaries have enjoyed rapidly increasing profits. In 2016,

While the preparations for the spring edition of the trade fair

for the first time, they incurred losses reaching up to as much as

are underway, it is still not clear whose tastes the exhibitors

80 per cent – in the case of the producers of high end jewellery,

should try to appeal to. It can be expected that a significant

both quality and price-wise. It is obvious that the expected and

part of the exhibitors will continue the trends that have been

inevitable market decline has come and it is time to look for

followed so far – although the boom has finished, it does not

new outlets. Which ones could have the best prospects? Which

mean that all clients from China have lost interest in amber

ones would be the easiest to conquer? The companies who have

products. Other producers are going back to the times before

consciously chosen designs that appeal to many consumers

the boom: “We are not planning any special investments in

all over the world have the fewest problems answering those

new collections until we find out what the needs of the “new”

questions. However, the ones who have been focused solely

customers are. We are going to offer traditional, silver jewellery

on the Chinese market struggle with them most.

decorated with cognac and green amber, which has always found buyers” – declares Łukasz Kwiatkowski from the Berkwiat

Nevertheless, both types of companies are looking towards the

company. And Wojciech Kalandyk, the owner of the Art7

Western Europe, which after a break caused by the extremely

company, which has successfully used a high level of design

high prices of amber, is gradually showing interest in products

of a universally appealing character, concludes: “Each year

decorated with amber. The other direction is the USA – the

before March almost everybody has some reservations. And as

largest outlet for amber products until the beginning of the

each year it will probably turn out that they were exaggerated”.

financial crisis in 2007, and now very demanding, but at the

I hope he is right…

same time very promising. The hope placed in those market is justified, as the last year’s edition of Amberif the International Fair for Amber, Jewellery and Stones was visited by a visibly higher number of buyers from European countries than in previous years.

Anna SADO

March 2017 (32)

4

UKRAINA

30 NORWAY

62 RUSSIA

In Ukraine, grass-roots amber mining develops annually, in the year of 2016 it reached a colossal scale. The efforts to legalize the “sunny stone” trade have been unsuccessful so far – illegal amber mining is thriving in the Volyn, Zhytomyr and Rivne regions, even the state apparatus is not able to incorporate it into the legal field.

In the summer of 2016, 1200 years after her death, the piece of jewellery was found by chance at Agdenes farm, at the outermost part of the Trondheim Fjord in mid-Norway. The well-preserved object is an ornament with a bird figure that has fishor dolphin-like patterns on both “wings.”

Currently, 100 persons are employed at the jewellery studio DARVIN that sells its goods all over the world.

It took about two decades to create our own style..

“Baltic Jewellery News” interviews the owner of the jewellery studio Viacheslav Darvin about love to a unique piece of amber, distinctive design of jewellery goods, customers.

10 BELARUS

48 LATVIA

68 CHINA

We know that there is Baltic amber in Kaliningrad, amber is extracted in Ukraine and Poland too.

In Lithuania contest for amber exploration and production for industrial purposes did not receive any interest. However did you know that there are amber deposits in Belarus?

Each year, the State Burn Centre of Riga Eastern Clinical University Hospital (RECUH) admits two to three people suffering burns as a result of finding a piece of phosphorus resembling amber that was washed ashore.

2016 was a turbulent year for fine jewellery, with key markets India and China heavily impacted by the fall in demand for gold jewellery. Asia Pacific continues to be the largest contributor of fine jewellery in the world taking up 61 % of the market, with China and India leading the market.

Baltic Jewellery News / March 2017 (32) Manufakturu st. 16–7, LT-11342, LT-11342, Vilnius, Lithuania Tel. / Fax: +370 5 2608497; E-mail: office@balticjewellerynews.com Editor / Anna Sado / E-mail: info@balticjewellerynews.com Designer / SAVITAI, Translators / VERTIMU GURU, CIRCULATION 4 000

Distribution in the whole Baltic Sea Region.

Copyright: Contents of “Baltic Jewellery News” are copyright. ISSN 2335-2132 Reproduction of material in part or in whole is not permitted in any form without the written authorization of the publisher. The editorial office is not responsible for the content of advertisements and for the accuracy of the facts presented by the authors.

We invite all those whose interests are related to our goals to join our project. With the help of various perspectives and opening of new discussions the jewellery business in the region can become clear and more beneficiary for everyone.

Thank you for the cooperation!

CONTENT Russian Jewellery Report

Ukrainian Jewellery Report 4

Overview of Ukraine’s Amber

6

EXHIBITION “UKRAINIAN WORLD OF AMBER” the culture of “sunny” treasure

Belarusian Jewellery Report 10

58

in Russia 62

About love to a unique piece of amber

67

“Jūratė” – a special prize for mastery

Chinese Jewellery Report

Presidential Administration of Belarus will determine who will lead the country in

68

Asia pacific in fine jewellery

70

IJL Kickstart 2017

extracting amber 12

UK Jewellery Report

The Prime minister of Belarus has become interested in gold jewellery of belarusians

II Annual forum of amber industry will take place

Worldwide Jewellery Report

Polish Jewelley Report 16 Amberif

72

JSC Kaliningrad Amber Factory amber prices

20

10 years of Jubinale trade fair in Krakow

74

The Worldwide price for raw amber

22

Variety is our asset

78

Amber Silver 925 Jewellery

24

A craftsman is as good as a designer

79

The Worldwide Gold Price

80

OUTLOOK 2017 Global economic trends and their

German Jewellery Report 26

On course for the Intergem 2022

30

Dressed up with bling stolen in viking

impact on gold

International Amber Association Report

Norwegian Jewellery Report 84

20 years of the International Amber Association

86

Zbigniew KRASKA: What’s the silver’s future?

raids

Swedish Jewellery Report 34

Golden Opportunities at Precious 2017

36

FOUR: we connect insiders and outsiders of “contemporary jewellery bubble”

Finnish Jewellery Report 40

Visiting imatra's fine art school

Estonian Jewellery Report 44

Interview with the chairman of Amber Trip art jewellery contest 2016

Latvian Jewellery Report 46

Lying awake

48

False amber at Liepaja seaside

Lithuanian Jewellery Report 50

“If not me, then who?” - Maryte DOMINAITĖ

52

Jewellery becomes precious, when it spreads warmth to its owner

56

New horizons Amber Trip

Personality Inclusions 90

Treasure found by an accident

91

Major jewellery trade fairs

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

“Environment in Rivne, Vinnytsia and Zhytomyr regions is suffering.”

OVERVIEW OF UKRAINE’S AMBER MARKET

By Vitaliy PETROVSKY

Amber

In Ukraine, grass-roots amber mining develops annually, in the year of 2016 it reached a colossal scale.

The efforts to legalize the “sunny stone” trade have been unsuccessful so far – illegal amber mining is thriving in the Volyn, Zhytomyr and Rivne regions, even the state apparatus is not able to incorporate it into the legal field. In most cases, the mining business is carried out completely illegally, goes to market bypassing official exchanges and the income ends up in the pockets of private entrepreneurs.

contraband deprives the budget of milli­

ons of dollars each year, and this issue does not let the state improve its image in the international arena. In September 2016 Verkhovna Rada was supposed to review the legalization of amber mining in several regions, but they did not get to it, since the bill was not the most urgent issue on the agenda.

Thus, the situation regarding amber on the Ukraine’s market has not changed much over the past year. Does waiting for fundamental changes in 2017 make sense then?

STATISTICS ON BUDGETARY FUNDS PLEDGED FOR AMBER MINING IN 2016 Interestingly enough, according to the statistics, the income from this area included into the 2016 budget was

In 2017, according to the same statistics,

THE BUDGET IS SUPPOSED TO GET A MUCH LARGER AMOUNT OF MONEY – 4.3 BILLION HRYVNIA, which should be an indirect sign of an upcoming fight against smuggling, as well as legalization of amber market proceeds www.balticjewellerynews.com

4

this sum is minuscule. Therefore, from here you can easily

amounting to 25 %). In 2017, according to the same statistics,

conclude that in 2016 the illegally exported and sold amber

the budget is supposed to get a much larger amount of

amounting to about 250 tons was continuously illegally mined

money – 4.3 billion hryvnia, which should be an indirect sign of

and delivered to its destination avoiding the public sphere.

an upcoming fight against smuggling, as well as legalization of

Of course, there are also legitimate miners, but from them

amber market proceeds. Will it be actually done – we will have

the budget revenues are extremely low. Compared to the

to wait and see. But if we consider the matter in the context

billions made by illegal prospectors, these amounts do not

of the real and already existing experience of legalizing

really mean anything.

various fields, then Ukraine will hardly be able to obtain

Maybe slightly more amber was confiscated slightly, but

the above-mentioned amount of money from its amber

only these figures got into the state storage and documents.

production.

According to other sources, this time from the National Police of Ukraine, in the past year a much larger amount of

WHAT WAS THE AMOUNT OF AMBER SMUGGLING IN UKRAINE IN 2016

amber was confiscated – approximately 14 tons. And more

In Ukraine, illegal miners extract amber in truly huge

In addition to amber, more than 350 motorized and ordinary

amounts. According to various inside sources, a large number

pumps were seized, as well as more than 150 different pieces

of people are involved in the mining – from 16 to 32 thousand

of equipment for the extraction and transportation of the

people monthly. They use modern pump-type equipment

“sunny stone”. As we know, the National Police does not prove

and manpower that allow them to extract the “sunny stone”

the results of its operations in any way, so the figures may be

illegally on a close to industrial scale. A qualified miner can

exaggerated.

than 400 criminal cases were opened against the perpetrators.

easily make 60–110 dollars a day doing it, while an ordinary worker can count on 25–45 dollars, which says a lot about

In 2016 the illegally exported and sold amber amounting to about 250 TONS WAS

the volumes of amber mining and huge profits that omit the state budget.

It was not possible to discover and stop all amber

CONTINUOUSLY ILLEGALLY MINED AND DELIVERED TO ITS DESTINATION avoiding

smuggling in 2016 even with the use of small border aviation that was supposed to explore and fixate mining complexes. 15 of such complexes were revealed, annual amber production

the public sphere

of which exceeds 250 tons. This unaccounted volume can not be accurately measured due to objective reasons, but experts predicted this amount of amber, which was bypassed official institutions in 2016 alone.

This begs the question, where did the difference of almost

If you look at the statistics for 2015, the figure there was

11 tons of amber which were not included in the state storage

slightly smaller – about 200 tons. At the same time, according to

and documentation go? As well as various equipment. Also, it

the official data the budget received only 50 thousand hryvnia.

is unclear what prevents the government from blocking the

So the shortfall amounted to as much as 6 billion hryvnia!

illegal mining in all three regions of Ukraine, since it can be

Now the production volumes have increased significantly, so

done quite easily and effectively, putting an end to the illegal

in 2016 the budget has not received much more than that. As

amber mining once and for all, increasing the country’s budget

mentioned above, for the extracted 250 tons of illegal amber

and its contributions.

the budget was supposed to get meager 1.5 billion, but failed

The statistics of the Ukraine’s amber market in 2016 is

to collect even that much.

disappointing, we can only hope that in 2017 things will get much better and relevant bills on fighting the illegal mining

HOW MUCH ILLEGAL AMBER WAS CONFISCATED IN UKRAINE IN 2016

market will be considered and adopted. Otherwise, the environment of the three regions will be compromised – it

According to the official statistics, in 2016 about 3.5 tons

is not only that the country’s budget is not received a large

of amber were seized in Ukraine by carrying out various

amount of money, but the agriculture of the Rivne, Vinnytsia

operations. The value of the confiscated amber doe not exceed

and Zhytomyr regions may gradually come to a complete

17 million hryvnia. Compared to the figures mentioned above,

standstill.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

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UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

estimated at 1.5 billion hryvnia (based on amber rents

UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

“Belarus to extract amber?”

EXHIBITION “UKRAINIAN WORLD OF AMBER” the culture of “sunny” treasure

By Olena BELICHENKO In January–February 2017 Lublin Museum (Poland) held an exhibition “Ukrainian World of Amber”. The exhibition was organised in collaboration with Director of Lublin Museum Katarzyna Mieczkowska-Czerniak.

Located

Director of the company “Centre Sunshine Craft” Iryna VERESHCHUK

at the famous Lublin castle, the former king’s residence, the

exposition provides information about history of Poland and also Ukrainian lands. Unique frescos and icons of orthodox

quartz, citrine, rock crystal, marble), and metal (silver), ceramics

shrines have been preserved in the castle.

and wood are presented at the exhibition. Non-traditional

Paintings, sculptures, furniture, interior objects and

combination of these materials with amber gives a unique

jewellery goods where amber is combined with other materials

style to the exhibits and bears a deep philosophical idea.

such as coloured glass (Tiffany style), natural stones (smoky

Over more than 40 million years the Ukrainian land took care

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UKRAINIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

According to the data of the World Amber Council, Ukraine occupies the second place in the world on the volume of amber deposits. UKRAINIAN AMBER

IS UNIQUE DUE TO VARIETY OF ITS COLOURS

of its “sunny” treasure – amber, so that descendants could

The association “Ukrainian Amber World” implemented a

feel the powerful energy of a pitch drop that looks like a sun

number of projects, including the project “Amber way” that

drop frozen in eternity. Ancestors believed in magic features

allowed presenting amber not only in Ukraine, but also beyond

of the stone as a source of energy and a mascot for good luck.

its borders, thereby opening new prospects for the Ukrainian

Amber bears sun and life energies and helps human beings

amber in the world.

to make links of times.

The Association includes the group of companies, among

According to the data of the World Amber Council, Ukraine

them “Centre Sunshine Craft LLC” and “Ambra Simha”.

occupies the second place in the world on the volume of

“Ambra Simha” represents a new philosophy of perceiving

amber deposits. Ukrainian amber is unique due to variety of its

and using amber. It works with the best artists and jewellers

colours. In addition to traditional yellow and brown colours of

to give a new life to amber. Combination of traditional

the stone, there is also amber of unique flavovirent, white and

technologies with the use of modern materials allows creating

dark red colours. Ukrainian amber is of high jewellery quality

masterpieces full of light and warmth given to amber by sun

and is widely used for jewellery and carving.

and soil over millions of years.

The exhibition is presented by the association “Ukrainian

“Ukrainian Amber World” and its exhibition of amber

Amber World”. The organization started its work in 2007. The

artwork plan the further tour to the countries of the Baltic and

goal of its activities is the promotion of Ukrainian amber,

Black Sea regions. Another exhibition will be held in Kaunas city

initiation and support to research, cultural, educational events,

(Lithuania) during the second Baltic-Black Sea forum “Towards

developing and expressing interests of amber industry. The

trust and peace through the dialogue”. Organisers believe

Association works to create an international image of Ukraine

that amber way, the centuries-old common history and art

as a country that appreciates its natural treasures; carefully

will become those values that will facilitate the unity of our

treats its heritage and takes care of the spiritual development

countries.

of the future generation.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

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★Amber Auctions★

Phone number: +370 (614) 64 606

Address: Gedimino ave. 64, Vilnius, Lithuania

Email: info@amberauctions.com

Work hours: Monday – Friday 9:00AM–6:00PM

Website: www.amberauctions.com

琥珀证书

www.ambercertificate.com info@ambercertificate.com +370 614 64606 Gedimino ave. 64, 01111 Vilnius, Lithuania

BELARUSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

“Belarus to extract amber?”

Presidential Administration of Belarus will determine WHO WILL LEAD THE COUNTRY IN EXTRACTING AMBER We know that there is Baltic amber in Kaliningrad, amber is extracted in Ukraine and Poland too. In Lithuania contest for amber exploration and production for industrial purposes did not receive any interest. However did you know that there are amber deposits in Belarus?

Soon

Presidential Administration of Belarus will choose organization, which will deal with amber extraction in the country said Deputy Prime Minister of Belarus

Mikhail Rusiy.

“We have deposits of amber, together with the manager of the presidential administration we are determined to choose organization will engage in organizing the assessment and extraction”, – said Deputy Prime Minister of Belarus Mikhail Rusiy.

He added that the deposits are located in Gantsevichi district, Brest region.

According to geologists, the vast majority of amber deposits in the south-west of the country, mainly on the territory of Brest Polesie. Amber lies at a depth of 0,3–7,5 meters. Belarusian fossil amber is yellow, light yellow, yellowish-white in size from 5 to 45 mm.

Experts estimate that about 80–90 % of amber mined in the country can be used in jewellery.

The total deposits of amber in Belarus are estimated to be more than 300 tons.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

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BELARUSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Jewellery by Mir ZOLOTA

THE PRIME MINISTER OF BELARUS HAS BECOME INTERESTED IN GOLD JEWELLERY OF BELARUSIANS The Prime minister Andrei KOBYAKOV has assigned the Ministry of Finance a task to take buying up of precious metals from the population under control.

The

prime minister of Belarus Andrey Kobyakov issued the order to the Ministry of Finance to introduce a departmental reporting on precious metals in goods and scraps,

which are bought up from the population, and also on jewellery and other household goods made of precious metals and gemstones, BELAPAN informs.

According to the press service of the government, it involves introducing the departmental reporting on precious metals in goods and scrap, which are bought up from the population, for the legal entities that have the legal right to buy up precious metals, and also jewellery and other household goods made of precious metals and gemstones for the legal entities that have the right to produce goods, jewellery and other household goods made of precious metals and gemstones by accepting individual orders from the population (by using customer's materials) and (or) by manufacturing.

The document has been adopted in accordance with the Presidential decree of 2 March, 2011 No. 95 “CONCERNING CERTAIN

ISSUES OF COLLECTING INFORMATION THAT IS NOT AVAILABLE IN THE STATE STATISTICAL REPORTS”. www.balticjewellerynews.com

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POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Jewellery by Danuta BURCZIKKRUCZKOWSKA, fashion by Beata Jarmołowska.

AMBERIF 2017 The 24th International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones GDAŃSK, 22–25 MARCH, 2017 AMBEREXPO Report by AMBERIF PRESS Office

On 22 March, the 24th edition of AMBERIF, the International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones, will begin at AMBEREXPO Gdańsk.

It is the most important amber exhibition and the largest jewellery event in Central and Eastern Europe. New jewellery designs and trends will be showcased by 480 companies from 14 countries. The organisers expect over seven thousand visitors from all over the world—mainly Poland, Russia, Germany, China, the UK, the USA, Latvia, the Czech Republic, Lithuania and Ukraine, Denmark, Sweden, Austria, Hungary, Finland, France and Italy. The event will have its highlight in the evening AMBER LOOK Trends & Styles 2017 Amber and Fashion Gala.

BUSINESS & ART The exhibitors will be provided with 12,000 m2 of floor space. New jewellery designs, trends and technologies will be presented by small, family-owned businesses, by artists at the Design Gallery and by large jewellery companies. The exhibitors include mainly manufacturers of gold and silver jewellery with amber, jewellers working with precious stones and diamonds, importers of gold and silver jewellery and watches, manufacturers and importers of machines, tools and jewellery technologies.

AMBERIF is one of the key settings for the jewellery industry to meet. Here business meets art, creative ideas are born, the latest trends and technologies in jewellery design are presented to captivate with a wealth of inspiration, bold associations and stunning combinations of materials.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

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2017 24th International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones

Gdańsk, Poland

March 22-25 amberif.pl

jewellery by Paweł Kaczyński

ambermart 2017 18th International Amber Fair Gdańsk, Poland 31.08-2.09.2017 ambermart.pl

organizer

venue Gdańsk International Fair Co.

partners Exhibition & Convention Centre

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

AWARDS

Companies from Austria, Belgium, Croatia, the Czech Republic, France, Germany, India, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Russia, Turkey,

Prestigious awards are presented during Amberif:

•

the UK, the USA and Poland will have the opportunity to

The Bogdan Mirowski Mercurius Gedanensis

exchange experience, establish new business relations and

Jewellery Mastery Award—a competition for Amberif

get to know the current jewellery fashion trends.

exhibitors, in two categories: Design—Grand Prix, and Workmanship Excellence—MTG SA President’s Gold

INSPIRATIONS

Medal;

•

AMBERIF defines trends. The Amberif Design Award, i.e. the

Amber Handicraft—a competition addressed to jewellers and young jewellery craft trainees, organised

International Amber Jewellery Design Competition, is a trend-

by the Pomeranian Skilled Craft Chamber of SMEs;

setting event for new development directions, in 2017 on the

•

theme of Periphery. It is an open competition, with participation

The Amber Sphere—The Łódź Academy of Fine Arts, Jewellery Department Students Award for the Best

from designers, artists, jewellery makers and art school students.

Jewellery Design at Amberif;

Their artistic endeavours are evaluated by an international

•

judging panel. The award-winning pieces are presented at a

Amber Personality of the Year and Amber Business Partner Award—titles awarded by the International

post-competition exhibit during Amberif (Lobby B).

Amber Association to individuals who not only work

AMBER LOOK

with amber, but also promote, research and collect it in

The AMBER LOOK Trends & Styles Amber and Fashion

a way which goes beyond the scope of their business.

Gala, brought to you by the MTG SA Gdańsk International Fair Co., has for years been one of the most spectacular events

The auspices over AMBERIF have been extended by the

to make AMBERIF shine. AMBER LOOK plays the part of the

Pomeranian Governor (Pomorskie Voivod), Marshal of the

haute couture of amber fashion, presenting original collections

Pomeranian Region and the Mayor of Gdańsk. Long-standing

from Polish amber and gemstone jewellery artists combined

partners have been invited to collaborate, including the SRJ

with designer fashion collections. “Fashion perceives amber

Association of Jewellery Experts, the International Amber

differently than jewellers and this exchange of experience

Association, the Pomeranian Skilled Craft Chamber of SMEs,

between industries is priceless,” emphasises Michał Starost,

the KIGB Polish Chamber of Amber Commerce and the STFZ

the project’s artistic director.

Goldsmithing Artists' Association.

AMBERIF is a trade-only event, addressed to individuals and businesses who trade in jewellery, jewellery art and functional art.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

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AUTOMOBILIS NAMAI

VERSLAS

Compensa Vienna Insurance Group UkmergÄ—s g. 280, LT-06115 Vilnius Tel. 8 5 250 66 00 www.compensa.lt info@compensa.lt

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

10 YEARS OF JUBINALE TRADE FAIR IN KRAKOW Press release by JUBINALE

Anniversaries are kind of magical – they make us stop for a moment, think and analyse.

The 10th anniversary of JUBINALE International Jewellery and Watches Trade Fair certainly will not be different. The organizers will use this opportunity to reflect on the fair development and plan activities for the upcoming years while the exhibitors and visitors will think about how JUBINALE influenced their business and helped to establish contacts with customers and suppliers.

When 10

Already during the first edition it became clear that the new trade fair, JUBINALE, strongly stands out in terms of organization and has a huge chance to enter the calendar of industry events for good. The following years consistently confirmed this fact – year by year the number of visitors increased, including those from abroad.

Every year JUBINALE project team sets new goals and makes sure that these goals are met. In recent years there were number of changes implemented – change of the logo, change of colours, change of the fairgrounds and change of the number of exhibitors (in 2016 over a double, compared to the first edition). However, the good practices and professional

years ago the team of

approach to the organization did not change over the years.

PB Group (then Polish

All these factors contributed to the fact that JUBINALE today

Jewellery), began planning the first edition of JUBINALE, it

provides the industry with an opportunity to meet before the

was not possible to predict what will happen with this new

summer season and explore new markets. JUBINALE is now

initiative. But there was a lot of enthusiasm, fresh ideas and

an important, regular exhibition for people associated with

positive energy.

the jewellery industry and became the event with a strong international audience.

The idea of organizing the exhibition in Krakow rose, among other things, due to the number of signals indicating

The 10th edition of JUBINALE will be held on 08–10.06.2017 in

that the south – Polish jewellery market required activation.

modern hall of International Exhibition and Convention Centre

The project team therefore hoped that JUBINALE will become

EXPO Krakow, where once again you will have a chance to meet

a meeting point of jewellers from southern Poland with

exhibitors from Poland and abroad – producers, manufacturers,

neighbouring countries – and this is exactly what happened.

importers and designers of jewellery and watches.

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POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

VARIETY IS OUR ASSET Interview with Agata and Krzysztof CAŁKA by Anna SADO

The majority of amber jewellery producers emulate hackneyed designs, tested by other companies – this is why it is difficult to distinguish one from another. Only a few have the courage to go their own way – and they succeed.

It looks like the year 2017 will be a very busy one for you...

Stanisław Całka: …a lot depends on whether we qualify for the new European Union promotional programme for the jewellery industry for the years 2017–2019. We are planning to participate in over twenty trade events all over the world, for instance trade fairs in Birmingham, Munich, Gdańsk and Mumbai. For each of these events we are preparing specially The Amber-Ring company has always stood out with its

dedicated collections because each event has its own specific

design. You did not take the soft option of choosing tested

character and particular aesthetic expectations.

Mumbai? India is a totally new direction for amber.

designs that are currently in fashion and selling well.

Agata Całka: Last year, in May, we were invited by the Polish

AC: It is very well visible at the trade fair in Gdańsk, where

Embassy in New Delhi to take part in a show that turned out

¾ of the companies offer exactly the same. We have always

to be so popular that the organisers are still receiving queries

gone our own way – it has always worked and still works to

regarding buying our jewellery. We decided that that was

our advantage. Of course, Amber-Ring has also collections

enough motivation to check whether the Indian market is

dedicated to the Chinese market, however we have never

open to our designs. To begin with, we will introduce designs

limited our product range to that market only. We have put

inspired by Indian culture, similar to those presented at the

too much effort into creating good relationships on other

show, but I hope that, with time, it will be possible to interest

markets to forget them for the sake of a quick gain. That’s

the Indians in European designs as well. We believe that it

why our product range is so varied and includes jewellery for

will be similar to the situation with the Chinese market,

clients from different countries and of different financial status.

where a few years ago we presented jewellery based on

We have been observing markets and one thing is certain and

beads and necklaces with large stones, and now Chinese ladies

constant: women at each longitude dream about attractive

more and more often buy other designs from our product range.

jewellery and must have a choice in each price range. We

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22

ranges – both very expensive and relatively cheap. Our designs comprise about 80 % of the products stocked, however, in order not to be so monotonous, we also offer products of other companies and designers.

You design, produce and sell jewellery with amber, but you also promote knowledge about this stone – in one of your galleries there is an Amber Museum.

SC: The first Bursztynek gallery and a small exhibition of amber that accompanied it were created in 2012, and the second gallery and Amber Museum were opened three fulfil that dream and, at the same time, we prove to them that

years later. The space of over 300m2 and the location in the

jewellery with amber can be both beautiful and fashionable.

immediate vicinity of the Old Town have given us a lot of

Those designs – in different price ranges, and in unique

possibilities. Thus, we are fulfilling our dream about creating

series – are mostly Agata’s creations.

a friendly place with a good atmosphere, where meetings

AC: This is what we have decided. I have always had the

with interesting people, as well as amber workshops and

impression that it all simply happens by itself... Not all designs

exhibitions take place. They show amber as seen through

work, and not all work immediately. A good example of this is

the eyes of artists and craftsmen as well as scientists. In the

our African necklace, which initially was deemed as too large,

nearest future, we would like to organise also cyclic shows

however after two years so many clients have ordered it that

in the old town area, in which the best Polish jewellery and

it has become one of our most distinguishable designs – both

fashion designers would take part. There is a lot happening

in Poland and abroad.

already, and there is more and more to come!

To wait a few years until a design becomes popular,

AMBER-RING

it’s a real luxury.

AC: As we can see, many things function completely

The company was founded in 1999 continuing the

differently for us... In our catalogue we have about 600 necklace

amber traditions that originate from 1967. It specialises in

designs alone. It happens that we get a commission for let’s

silver jewellery with amber, and amber combined with other

say orders of 5–6 pieces of 130 designs, which is not beneficial

jewellery stones. The founders – Agata and Stanisław Całka

from the economic point of view. I have tried to replace a part

graduated from the University of Art and Design – they are

of the older designs with new ones, but we continue to get

exponents of modern design inspired by nature and geometry.

orders for them. We fulfil all of them, regardless of their size

Their works in that field were granted the Award of the Minister

and profitability. We also replace the goods with new ones if

of Economy in 2013, and a year later a prestigious Teraz Polska

the old ones don’t sell out – perhaps it will be easier for the

(Poland Now) Polish Promotional Emblem for companies

new ones to find a buyer...? We respect all of our clients.

distinguished by the highest quality and exceptionally high

In 2014, 70 % of Amber-Ring’s products ended up

export potential. The prestige of both awards has resulted in

abroad. What are the proportions like currently?

increased recognisability of the company and has strengthened

SC: Today it looks a bit different. We currently have two

the brand. Currently their products are exported mainly to

retail shops in Warsaw, we have tightened our cooperation

European countries, but they also reach the Asian, American

with the largest chain shops in Poland, thus the proportions

and Arabic markets.

have changed to the Polish market’s advantage. We sell about 60–70 % of our products in Poland – even if in most cases the buyers are tourists, mostly Spanish, Italians, and Americans.

The come to our shop because our product range is really diverse – contrary to the majority of shops and galleries with amber, whose product range is prepared with the Chinese customer in mind.

AC: Variety has turned out to be our asset yet again. In our galleries Bursztynek (Little Amber) we have modern jewellery,

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23

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

attractive to every woman and available in different price

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Carousel – silver, granates, fabric; distinction Presentations 2008

A CRAFTSMAN IS AS GOOD AS A DESIGNER Interview with Iwona MROWCZYNSKA

by Anna SADO

participants’ works showed a really high level. It is easier to lose with such a “competition” (smiles).

Do you often take part in competitions?

Winner of the first prize in the competition “Presentations” 2016 claims that professional love for jewellery can be expressed in different ways – and they are all just as good!

I try to do it at least once a year. I am trying to thus impose certain discipline, to mobilise for more conceptual thinking than is necessary in my daily work. Every day I perform more craft work that only sometimes offers the possibility of artistic realisation, doing something on my own, and not

“NI” is the title of your winning piece of work. Why

only implementing client’s vision. Clients’ positive assessment

such a title? Where does your inspiration come from?

and satisfaction are certainly important to me, but I need

“NI” means the first two letters of my one-year-old

confrontation with the world of designers and artists, I need

daughter’s name. This is my first competition project after

to be assessed by professional community. It motivates me to

her birth, and that is why I dedicated it to her. Where did the

make an effort, it also brings me a lot of satisfaction when my

idea come from? I was inspired by a gold custom-made ring

work is honoured or rewarded. And especially when I receive

encrusted with a large diamond. When producing it, I proceeded

congratulations from respective persons.

You have an artistic education but do craft work. Is

from thick elements twisted around each other – I liked that

that a conscious decision?

arrangement. And I reflected it in my work, whose form, through

Not really conscious but very good decision, as it turned

the use of silver, could be more spatial and a little crazy.

Were you expecting this award?

out. At some stage of work in the art jewellery studio, I gained

I have to admit that I hoped to get a distinction (smiles).

conviction that it is difficult to come up with something new

But if I hadn’t got it, I wouldn’t feel aggrieved because other

in this area. And yet this glut of accessories, which devalue

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24

POLISH JEWELLERY REPORT Slapstick – silver and white sugar crystals; diploma project 2005

jewellery... I accepted an offer to work at the gold plant

new every day and realise how much more I can learn. Creating

believing a little paradoxically that it would be different. And

patterns in my own studio is usually determined by the skills

it is different! Apparently I am doing similar or even the same

acquired so far. In my job I have to constantly learn new things

things, however, they are still new and exciting for me. Even if

in order to cope with new professional challenges. Craft work is

I have to set 150 stones a day – they all look like the same but

surely different form the design work, but certainly not worse.

Statistically, love lasts about 5 years, and your love to

each is a little different, each must be approached individually.

gems lasts 3 years…

And when I hold stones so beautiful and valuable in my hands, which sometimes even jewellers have not seen throughout

I hope this love will never end. And that I will still face a lot

many years of their work, I am just happy. I love to look at them

of professional challenges – both in craft and jewellery design.

and consider the way they can be set best to emphasize their

The forthcoming challenge is now to explore the secrets of

glow. It is like working with living matter. I have been falling

enamel. I need it to create a little contrast for my beloved stones.

in love with stones for 3 years – every day more and more.

Do you miss conceptual jewellery, creating something that is your own to express yourself?

No. I produce conceptual works for competitions, which satisfy my need for artistic self-expression. I used to think that designer’s work is based on inventing interesting patterns to delight the world, and I really liked that vision. But then it turned out that a designer is not only a designer in his company, but also a modeller, accountant, salesman, marketing specialist... At some point, it turned out that everything underlying my decision to engage in professional jewellery in fact was pushed aside.

Formalities and fund-raising for all those bills prove to be much more important... This is so frustrating! For that reason the idea proved to be good for me. I got rid of a lot of the stress related

“NI” the “Presentations” 2016 awarded ring of Iwona MRÓWCZYŃSKA

to the administration, I do my dream job, I learn something

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25

GERMAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Necklace aquamarine with 18k gold, Günter Weinz GmbH, Kirschweiler

ON COURSE FOR the INTERGEM 2022 Report by INTERGEM PRESS office

“This year’s INTERGEM from 30 eptember to 3 October is a key step on the path to the relaunch of the fair by 2022,” the fair's Managing Director, Kai-Uwe Hille, is convinced. “It begins with the date, which we have consciously placed on the public holiday celebrating German unity, thus giving as many store owners as possible the opportunity to visit the fair.” Because the key objective is clear: the INTERGEM wants and needs more visitors. In five to six years the figure should stand at around 5,000. “A realistic number, which we already managed to reach in the past,” says the fair manager. The target of 170 exhibitors also lies well within the realms of possibility, with this number present for the inauguration of the new fair hall in 2009. Last year featured 130 exhibitors and 3,200 visitors, a slight upwards trend.

Tansanit in trillion form 16,04 ct., Groh + Ripp, Idar-Oberstein

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26

An

agenda of numerous measures exists to achieve these goals. The first of these will come into effect

this year. The aim is to increase the analysis of visitor potential in the key markets in Europe and overseas before sending out targeted VIP invitations. “As an exclusive speciality fair, the INTERGEM enjoys an outstanding reputation worldwide,” says Kai-Uwe Hille.“We aim to build upon this with our measures.”

For example, visitor management is to be developed further with partners from the trade in the form of mailing campaigns tailored to target groups. In addition, the plan is to use attractive offers to invite purchasing delegations with especially affluent customers. Because the fair managers are not focused merely on attracting the sheer number of 5,000 visitors, but on ensuring that the right buyers come to IdarOberstein at the end of September.

The INTERGEM is already a familiar event in trade circles, both nationally and internationally. The strength of the location is also that of the fair as a showcase. The aim now is to establish it as the flagship of the gemstone community.

The close co-operation with the local industry and associated know-how already makes the INTERGEM unique of its kind in the world. It is the most important date in autumn for all those familiar with the industry. “We are a hidden champion, a secret global market leader,” says Kai-Uwe Hille. Because insiders know: the range and concentration of gemstones and know-how is unique here. First-class contacts with the sites and individual mines as well as treasures in their own gemstone stocks mean that the exhibitors are able to satisfy the demand for coveted varieties that are no longer to be found on the world market. In addition, an attractive support programme addresses exciting new themes each year.

The middle of January saw the presentation of the AGENDA

2022 IN IDAR-OBERSTEIN. OVER 60 VISITORS CAME,

including numerous former exhibitors and new companies not yet represented at the INTERGEM. “The event clearly showed that our new orientation is the right way to go,” says Kai-Uwe Hille. “Now we need to involve all exhibitors and relevant institutions in a prompt and effective manner.”

Sept. 30 - Oct. 03

2017 www.intergem.de

NORWEGIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Image courtesy of The Norwegian University of Science and Technology (NTNU)

DRESSED UP WITH BLING STOLEN IN VIKING RAIDS

By SCIENCE DAILY

was originally used as a fitting for a horse's harness, but holes at the bottom and traces of rust from a needle on the back show

When a female Norwegian Viking died some time during the 9th century, she was buried wearing a status symbol: a beautiful piece of bronze jewellery worn on her traditional Norse dress.

In

that it had probably been turned into a brooch at a later stage.

But how did a fitting from an Irish horse's harness end up as a brooch for a Norwegian Viking woman?

TOOK THE JEWELLERY TO HER GRAVE Aina Margrethe Heen Pettersen is a doctoral student at

the summer of 2016, 1200 years after her death, the

the Norwegian University of Science and Technology's (NTNU)

piece of jewellery was found by chance at Agdenes

Department of Historical Studies and works with finds brought

farm, at the outermost part of the Trondheim Fjord in mid-

to Norway during the Viking age. She will now study the bronze

Norway. The well-preserved object is an ornament with a bird

brooch more closely, which is has been curated and preserved

figure that has fish- or dolphin-like patterns on both “wings.�

by the NTNU University Museum.

The decorations suggest that the jewellery was made in a Celtic

She explains that fittings like this were popular among the

workshop, most likely in Ireland, in the 8th or 9th century. It

Norwegian Vikings who took part in the first raids to the British

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30

STRATEGIC LOCATION

originally attached to horse harnesses, like in this case, or to

Agdenes is strategically located at the south end of

religious items such as books, crosiers or altar decorations.

the mouth of the Trondheim Fjord, where it meets the

“A housewife in Mid-Norway probably received the

Trondheimsleia Strait. The place is mentioned several times in

fitting as a gift from a family member who took part in one

the Norse sagas as a gathering place where ships with warriors

or more Viking raids to Ireland or Great Britain. When she died,

met before their journey continued.

the jewellery was given to her as a burial gift. It has stayed

Traces of King Øystein's Harbour, which was established

underground until it was found by chance this summer,” Heen

for military and defense reasons early in the 12th century, are

Pettersen says.

found just next to Agdenes farm, where the bronze brooch was

She adds that almost all of the similar finds from this era

discovered. The harbour validates the strategic location of the

that have been discovered in Norway have been found in

place. It is possible that the area served as a natural gathering

women's graves that date from the first half of the 9 century,

or stopping place for ships sailing from the Trondheim Fjord

th

to the British Isles.

when the Vikings began to plunder the British Isles.

From Mid-Norway, ships probably followed the coastline southwards before

VISUAL STATUS SYMBOLS

they crossed the open ocean across the

Being part of the early Viking raids

North Sea. If the weather was nice and the

brought status and prestige to the

wind came from the right direction, they

individuals who participated, but also

could sail from the southwest of Norway

to their families. The men who returned

to the east coast of England or Scotland in just a couple of days.

them at home. The fittings were then

Doctoral student Aina Margrethe HEEN PETTERSEN at the Department of Historical Studies at NTNU will conduct more research on the bronze brooch, which is preserved and maintained by the NTNU University Museum.

turned into jewellery, and were worn on

Photo: Åge HOJEM/NTNU University Museum

THE GRAVE HAS BEEN DISTURBED

alive from the dangerous journeys gave the objects they had stolen as gifts to female family members who waited for

traditional Norse clothing as brooches, pendants or belt fittings.

The Viking women who owned this kind of jewellery WERE

“As a result, it became clear to everyone that those women had family members who had taken part in successful expeditions far away. There are traces of gold on the surface of the jewellery, so it was originally covered in gold. It therefore appeared to be more valuable than it actually was. In addition, each piece of jewelry was unique, so the owner did not risk having the housewife next door turn up with the same piece of jewellery,” Heen Pettersen says.

TYPICALLY BURIED WITH GRAVE GIFTS SUCH AS TORTOISESHAPED BROOCHES, PEARLS, A KNIFE AND A SPINNING WHEEL, in addition to

jewelry made from stolen fittings

Jewellery of this kind has typically

If they were surprised by bad weather, the journey could be fatal.

According to Heen Pettersen, the bronze brooch was found by a private individual with a metal detector, so it is not a find from an archaeological site. The jewellery was not found in the original grave, which indicates that the grave at some point had been disturbed – for example during ploughing or other farming activities. The Viking women who owned this kind of jewellery were typically buried with grave gifts such as tortoise-shaped brooches, pearls, a knife and a spinning wheel, in addition to jewelry made from stolen fittings.

been found in women's graves with

“The new find from Agdenes farm

relatively few other burial gifts. This suggests that many of the

shows that the area was populated in the first part of the Viking

Vikings who took part in raids far away did not represent the

Age. Even though it is a random find, it is a nice reminder that

top layer of the social hierarchy. Instead, they were “nouveau

Mid-Norway was involved in the early contact with the British

riche” farmers and fishermen who got the opportunity to climb

Isles,” says Heen Pettersen.

the social ladder by taking part in Viking raids.

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31

NORWEGIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Isles, at the very beginning of the Viking age. The fittings were

93-204 ŁÓDŹ, UL. ZAPOLSKIEJ 7, POLAND / Tel. (+48) 603881897 / E-mail: tomski@autograf.pl

SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Baltic countries are welcome to Stockholm this autumn

Golden Opportunities at Precious 2017 Report by PRECIOUS Press Office

Precious

continues to strengthen its

tools, wrapping, boxes, security solutions and supplementary

position as the natural meeting

products used by the industry.

ground for the Nordic watch and jewellery industry. During

STATISTICS FROM PRECIOUS 2016:

three days exhibitors and visitors get enough business,

•

competence and inspiration for the whole year.

Precious 2017 will present new exiting brands while many

• •

of their trusted exhibitors choose to go in bigger than ever.

The most recent information also points to a growing interest from visitors – both domestic and international.

•

– No other fair in the Nordic countries can present such a

The fair hosted 178 exhibitors from 11 different countries..

A total of 384 brands were represented at the fair.

The number of unique visitors was 3 387, an increase by 6,3 percent.

The number of companies represented by the visitors

vast range of meetings between people in the business, says

increased for the fifth year in a row, reaching 906. 98

Åsa Axelson, Project Manager, and she welcomes all visitors

of them came from other countries than Sweden, an

and exhibitors from Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania.

increase by 32,4 %.

Precious – Stockholm Nordic Watch & Jewellery Fair 8–10 September 2017, Stockholmsmässan www.preciousfair.se

VOICES FROM PRECIOUS 2016: “A fantastic fun weekend in Stockholm. For three days we looked on jewelry, tried new tools, talked to a lot of interesting people and got to know the industry even better. Now, back to the workshop with new ideas and visions.”

PRECIOUS – FOR WHOM?

”What a rewarding weekend! Now all autumn news are

Precious is the trade fair to visit for purchasers in the watch

ordered and will arrive shortly.”

and jewellery industry, designers, craftsmen and stylists. At

”After a great fun weekend in Stockholm we are now back

Precious, you will meet existing and new watch and jewellery

in the store full of insipration. The store is getting cleaned and

distributors as well as providers of precious stones, machinery,

our shelves will fill up with news!”

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34

opportunities The Nordic Watch & Jewellery Fair 8-10 September 2017

p r e c i o u s fa i r . s e

Group portrait; Malin LÖVGREN, Linnéa ERIKSSON, Karin Roy ANDERSSON, Hanna LILJENBERG, 2016.

Photo: Lasse KARLSSON

FOUR: WE CONNECT INSIDERS AND OUTSIDERS OF “CONTEMPORARY JEWELLERY BUBBLE” Interview with Karin Roy ANDERSON

by Odilija GUNTORIUTE

SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

1

Karin, thank you for agreeing to give us an interview.

Could you introduce yourself and your colleagues

who started this project with you? What brought you together?

Four consists of Hanna Liljenberg, Malin Lövgren, Linnéa Eriksson and me. We met each other during our education at HDK (Academy of Design and Craft) in Gothenburg.

In 2010 we found a place in Linnéstaden in the central parts of Gothenburg where we could both work and sell our pieces and decided to start Four.

Working as an artist can be quite lonely and to me a strong team of colleagues is crucial in order to keep on going. Me and the other three work in different ways and with different focus but our collaboration works very well. Behind the gallery we have the workshop and it’s great to get feedback from each other when doing own artistic work.

Before we opened Four I had spent 6 month working with the Klimt02-team in Barcelona. It had opened my eyes to the wonderful international world of contemporary jewellery.I started to invite artists who I admire, writing them mails explaining why I wanted to show their work to the Gothenburg’s audience. I guess my very honest flattery was an efficient way to make them accept the invitation. Today I am the one managing the gallery, but I always have a good support from my partners.

2

When did you create Four? What would your advise



be for jewellery artist, who want to organize events

Linnéa ERIKSSON, necklace, Connect, 2016, steel, oxidized silver, spray paint.

to spread the word about art jewellery, how would you

Photo: Linnéa ERIKSSON

encourage them?

Four opened in September 2010. I would say that collaboration is the key – finding people that you can work with. I think it is very hard to do everything yourself – unless

Karin Roy ANDERSSON, necklace, Swans, 2016, recycled plastics (food trays), steel, silver, paint, thread, 24x21x3,5 cm.

you have a really fat wallet. My second advise would be to trust

Photo: Karin Roy ANDERSSON

your intuition. If you think that something is precious, clever



and exciting other people will also get interested. You just have to find the right audience and the right way to present this to them.

3

Four is not just a gallery it’s a platform for discussions about art, jewellery, work and inspiration. What

encouraged you to create such a concept?

Jewellery as an art form is not a well-known concept in Gothenburg – or in Sweden. I do a lot of different project where the main goal is to change that situation. I believe contemporary jewellery needs both places where jewellers and well-initiated jewellery fans can go into nerdy discussions about expressions or details of the technique, and places

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37

SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT

the Swedish artist Rut-Malin Barklund. She placed big parts of her studio in the gallery and during the coming weeks she made it her workshop. The project Rut-Malin was working on was an investigation of chains. The visitors could take part of the process both through her mood board on the wall, the already finished pieces on display and they could also see new pieces develop. This was a good way of opening up for communication and I felt like it changed the dynamics and brought new energy to Four.

5

Malin LÖVGREN, ring, 2013, silver labradorite, rosequartz, moonstone.

Photo: Malin LÖVGREN

What can we expect from Four in 2017?

Where are you going with your project?

We have a very interesting year ahead of us! First up

is a show with Flora Vagi. Flora describes her pieces as where contemporary jewellery is served in a way that attracts

‘newly dressed souls’ and that is exactly what they are.

people that has no idea of why you should visit Munich in

She works mostly in natural materials like paper or wood,

March and don’t think of alpaca as anything else than a furry

but she turns them into something new. Flora has an

animal. At Four I try to create something that is accessible for

impressive skill of finding and bringing out the soul of the

a wide audience and at the same time interesting for patrons.

material, a new identity that it has been longing to show.

We put a lot of effort in creating a relaxed atmosphere that

In March we will make a retrospective showing the

invites and inspires students, collectors, creators and people

10year career of Benjamin Lignel. The majority of Four’s

outside the “Contemporary Jewellery bubble” to experience

artists would probably say that the hands are their most

and discuss jewellery – an intimate gallery space for meetings

important tools, but in Benjamin Lignel’s case the head

and discussions.

plays a more prominent role. His work carries a sharp,

4

but often also affectionate humour and it comments on From your past events, which one was your

appearance, body image, jewellery and what it symbolizes.

favourite? How does it represent what Four is?

In April we will make a collaboration with the German based

It is impossible to choose only one favourite exhibition –

artists Attai Chen and Carina Shoshtary. They are coming for

I have many – but in September 2015 we had an exhibition with

an a.i.r in Gothenburg and during one month they will work together with the me, Hanna Liljenberg, Sanna Svedestedt Carboo and Åsa Christensson on a project that will be shown and partly executed at Four.

Last year when I visited Munich I saw the fantastic work

Hanna LILJENBERG, brooch, Untitled, 2016, black burned iron, oil paint, varnish, steel.

by Yojae Lee and in May we are very happy to get a visit from

Photo: Hanna LILJENBERG

this South Korean artist. Yojae creates insects in a size that changes the relationship to the wearer. The robotic creatures are both captivating and terrifying. By mixing different types of metals and leather her artwork captures you both figuratively and literally.

In the fall we have three solo shows with Mia Maljojoki, Tanel Veenre and Karin Johansson. They are all well recognized artists. Mia Maljojoki’s work has a direct and spontaneous expression. The pieces might seem like they were created by accident, but the composition is balanced and carefully planned. Well-directed but unpredictable processes are refined with intuition and long artistic experience. She puts together strong colours and shapes with an elegance that creates harmony in a bold chaos.

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38

SWEDISH JEWELLERY REPORT From Rut-Malin BARKLUNDS exhibition Investigation of Chains, September 2015

Street view, Nordhemsgatan 74, Göteborg

Tanel Veenre – one of the brightest stars in the jewellery

stylized butterfly shape will, on a closer look, show an

universe – brings up creatures from the depths of the oceans

impressive depth. The wings carry a detailed pattern and if

and covers them with a shimmer from distant galaxies. He

you take it in your hand, you discover that it is not a fragile

combines musical tones with aesthetics and poetry, creating

insect, but a solid metal object. And one of her colourful, vivid

a magical, magnetic world that attracts and captivates.

necklaces will slow down when you take it off, and when it hangs on a wall it becomes a poetic work of art.

The grand finale will be an exhibition with Karin Johansson.

I find her work a bit difficult to describe. It holds lightness and

6

weight, playfulness and gravity, spontaneity and carefully balanced planning. What appears to be a two-dimensional

What are you most looking forward to in 2017?

I am looking so much forward to all of the shows! I will

be getting some of my absolute favourite artists to the gallery – the ones I think are the most interesting, intelligent and skilled.

All of them will come to Gothenburg for the openings, and

From

as if being great artists wasn’t enough they are all wonderful

FRANK VERKADE’S EXHIBITION,

people so I think what I actually look forward to the most is

November 2016

to meet them.

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39

FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT

Saimaa University of Applied Sciences

VISITING IMATRA'S FINE ART SCHOOL

By Antonio ALTARRIBA

The

Saimaa University of Applied Sciences is an

also a jewellery artist, who participates actively in international

institute of higher education in Southeastern

exhibitions alone or with the group called Hibernate. Around

Finland in the cities of Lappeenranta and Imatra. It offers

the coffee table there was also Jenni Sokura, who is in charge of

degrees in five fields and in twenty degree programmes. The

the jewellery workshop. Sokura is the chairman of the Finnish

Department of Fine Art is located in Imatra. It is possible to

Jewellery Art association and there were two students of

study printmaking, painting, photography, sculpture and

jewellery art, Reeta Suvanto and Kalle Heikkilä who are at the

jewellery art. The city of Imatra has about 30.000 inhabitants

third year of their art studies.

and it is known among other things by its Rapids, the Art

Eija MUSTONEN: This is the only university in Finland

Nouveau hotel (Valtionhotelli), Alvar Aalto's church, “Koru” art

where Fine Art students can make their final work of their

jewellery triennial at the art museum, the international theatre

bachelor's degree in jewellery art. When students enter the Fine

festival (Black&White) and for its paper and metal industry. The

Art programme during the first year they get acquainted with

distance from Imatra to Helsinki is about 250 km.

all techniques of art, after that they can choose or intermingle

In a misty afternoon of January I went to Imatra to meet

different paths. It is after them. We do not force anyone. It is

Eija Mustonen, the manager of the Fine Art Programme, she is

the students free choice. The bachelers degree is visual artist. If during the BA programme some student wants tolearn a specific technique that's not available in our department, let's say some special technique on goldsmithing, we can organize that that student can get a workshop in another university or have an exchange. Also we have a wide range of international exchanges programmes with other institutions. We are very open minded!

Jenni SOKURA: Usually Fine Art education in upper secondary school deals with drawing and painting, of course, it depends on the teacher. When students enter our Fine Art programme there are manytechniques new for them, they are like sailing at the open sea everything is new and big. It takes

"Ow!" – Necklace: White opal, rope and band-aid, 2016

time before they settle down and they find there own technique

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40

FINNISH JEWELLERY REPORT Reeta SUVANTO, sorrowrings

for artistic expression. Our fundamental courses should inspire students to try new ways and forms of approach.

Usually new students know nothing about jewellery art and as a teacher I keep the firing burning. I want to remark that here we approach jewellery artistically, not for designing object, anyhow it can be related to the body.

Kalle HEIKKILĂ„: I'm very happy of having entered the programme of Fine Art in this school, I knew nothing about jewellery art. I do not know if I'm going to do the Master's Degree, first I have to finish my BA. I cannot tell about any guru either I would not like to raise a name over another, but surely every workshop has its effects on students also on me.

Reeta SUVANTO: Even is early to say about my future, but I want to get my Master's Degree whether in Finland or abroad. They are possibilities to go to Sweden, Germany and so on. The best of the school is that is small, about a hundred students for the BA and ten for the MA. This means that we have a very good relationship with the staff and specially the one's who has choosen jewellery for the final work. I would say about ten per cent of the whole school, so we are like a family. You can ask anything at anytime!

Our conversation is getting to an end and my conclusion is that this small Fine Art Department offers great things with flexibility with enthusiasm.Sometimes being small has an advantage!

www.aimdisplay.com.pl

AIM DISPLAY POLISH MANUFACTURER OF DISPLAYS, ETUI, BUSTS AND TRAYS FOR EXPOSITION, SALES AND STORAGE OF JEWELLERY PL

ul. Taborowa 24, 02-699 Warszawa, Poland, T/F: +48 226449815

v

www.aimdisplay.com.pl

v

aimdisplay@aimdisplay.com.pl

ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Interview with the CHAIRMAN OF AMBER TRIP ART JEWELLERY CONTEST 2016

1

Jaan Parn, congratulations on winning third place in

I could not realize it was impossible and so I graduated from

the Amber Trip art jewellery contest. Could you tell us

architectural studies in 1976. I returned to the institute in 1978

more about your idea in relation to the theme “My Home”?

and graduated as a jewellery designer in 1982.

Idea of my object presented at Amber Trip 2016 was

homes and go to have a better life or even adventures

3

abroad. They will leave behind the old fences of farmhouses,

taught at a high level for more than 90 years. Moreover, in

cemeteries, milk-jugs, sunny childhood (amber) etc. Lots of

some areas of Estonia the national costumes contain about

young Estonians are going to Australia to live and to work;

7 kg of silver jewellery pieces! Estonians are good craftsmen

similarly, I was born in a little town Sindi. This is why you see

and behind the “iron curtains” we had to develop our art

there the names Sindi – Sydney.

ourselves. It does not mean that we were not influenced by

2

our neighbours, but Estonian design was very independent

"emigration" (even for a short period). Lots of people move from country-side to big cities, lots of them will leave their

How do you think Estonian art jewellery differs from the rest of Europe?

Estonian jewellery design has a long tradition; it has been

How did you become a jewellery designer?

for quite a long time.

I made my first “jewellery” pieces when I was 14 years

in Estonia and in other countries (mostly socialist Eastern

4

European countries of that time) and I WANTED to become a

from the women I work for and from the semi-precious stones

jewellery artist. In 1971 I moved to Tallinn to start my studies,

and other materials like shell, wood, corals, pearls etc., as I

but the competition to enter the Jewellery department of

create my jewellery piece around them. The nature is the best

our State Art Institute (now Estonian Academy of Arts) was

artist, I just add a little bit of my knowledge. In my work I use

very high (10 persons per 1 place). I entered the Architectural

only silver or gold, as precious work must be done by using

department and dreamed to “jump over” during the first year.

precious materials.

old. These chains and small necklaces made of copper or brass wire and also several decorative wall pieces were exhibited

Where do you take inspiration for your design?

With which materials do you like to work the most?

I get my inspiration from my architectural background,

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44

ESTONIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

5

How did you start working with amber?

At the end of Soviet time there was nothing in the jewellery

Amber became more relevant in my life 7–8 years

shops except amber! Many colleagues of mine in Estonia

ago, when I got a gift from my Latvian friends. I make my

believe that nobody will buy amber jewellery and so it is not

work from natural pieces of amber as every piece is different

profitable to work with it. It is not true! Natural amber is a

and it preserves its old beauty. Tallinn is full of amber from

very beautiful material and becomes more and more popular

Kaliningrad and some tourists believe that amber is Estonian

again, as I have seen on my exhibitions in Germany, Italy and

national material. We have never found amber in Estonia, but I

etc. For the young people the price of amber can be too high

like this material as I like different agates and mother-of-pearl.

and there are not so many places to buy it. Also young artists

6

very often like to make “contemporary art”, where very often As a teacher of art jewellery, could you share your

“a piece of jewellery” is even too big for a female elephant.

thoughts how to promote amber among young

Where to get so much amber?!

people? How to encourage young jewellers to work with amber?

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45

LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

“LYING AWAKE” –

Contemporary Jewellery Exhibition

By Two Emerging Latvian Jewellery Artists

ALISE TĀLBERGA and MAIJA VĪTOLA

Press release by PUTTI ART Gallery

From

Alise TĀLBERGA, earrings – copper, paint

March 24 until April 15, 2017 Art gallery Putti presents contemporary jewellery

exhibition by two emerging Latvian jewellery artists Alise Tālberga and Maija Vītola – “Lying awake”.

Alise Tālberga and Maija Vītola are connected by studies in Latvian Academy of Arts and active participation in art jewellery world. The concept of the exhibition has a purpose of stimulating philosophical contemplation about the world, which we encounter in early childhood, the world that is full of metaphors and life lessons – fairy tale kingdom.

The information locked in fairy tales is displayed through symbols – by interpreting it the artists invite to pay attention to the inner world of human beings and spiritual values that should be cherished and developed. The stage design of the exhibition “Lying awake” transforms Art gallery Putti into a space that holds the birth of artists` ideas and dreams materialize into jewellery pieces, visualizing the emotions and atmosphere of jewellery making process. There is an opinion that the life of jewellery piece begins in the moment when the new owner starts to wear it. That is the moment when a dream transforms into reality.

The exhibition will be on display until April 15, 2017.

Maija VĪTOLA , ring – silver, ebony, carved bone

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46

LATVIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

False Amber at Liepaja Seaside: SOVIET HERITAGE KEEPS POSING A THREAT Each year, the State Burn Centre of Riga Eastern Clinical University Hospital (RECUH) admits two to three people suffering burns as a result of finding a piece of phosphorus resembling amber that was washed ashore. Specialists explain that false amber ignition may cause serious and deep thermal burns; therefore, the respective service agencies are to be informed if false amber is found.

During

the Soviet occupation, large amounts

Once false amber has ignited, immediately get rid of

of white phosphorus were dumped

it and take off burning clothing. It is critical that burns are

into the Baltic Sea near the Western Coast of Latvia. The Soviet

promptly immersed in cold water for 15–20 minutes since it

army used phosphorus in making explosives and military

helps prevent further thermal effect and rinse off chemical

trainings at the shooting range in Pape. Staying in water for

agents. Afterwards, it is necessary to seek medicinal help

a long time makes white phosphorus look like amber; this is

from the GP, at the nearest medical facility or the State Burn

why it was called false amber.

Centre. If burns are severe, immediately contact the Emergency

According to the information provided by the hospital

Medical Service by calling 113.

to the news portal TVNET, each year the State Burn Centre of

In turn, Liepaja Regional Environmental Board (REB) of

RECUH admits two to three people suffering burns as a result

the State Environmental Service (SES) has for many years not

of finding a piece of phosphorus resembling amber that was

been informed of the cases of people suffering burns or being

washed ashore.

blown up by false amber, i.e. phosphorus, washed ashore in

As a rule, having found the so-called false amber, the finder

the Liepaja area. In recent weeks, such accidents have also

puts it into a pocket, and after some time the body heat causes

not occurred. The SES points out that at present there is no

it to ignite as a result of which clothing starts burning and a

apparent phosphorous pollution at Liepaja seaside; therefore,

person suffers burns.

neither the SES, nor Liepaja REB and the municipality plan any

More often than not, people find false amber on the

clean-up and collection activities.

beach line between Bernati and Liepaja and many of them,

At the beginning of the last week, photographs possibly

if suffer burns, have recourse to Liepaja Regional Hospital.

depicting flared up false amber appeared in social networks. The

Patients are transferred from Liepaja hospital to the State

SES points out that said substance might as well be unexploded

Burn Centre in severe cases only. However, there are patients

fireworks, some sort of dye or mordant. Nevertheless, if we

who immediately go to the State Burn Centre which is the only

assume that said substance was phosphorus, people under

specialised thermal burn centre in Latvia.

no circumstances should pick it up, touch or keep in a pocket.

‘Ignition of false amber causes thermal and chemical

The SES specialists emphasise that such finding should

burns that may be very serious and deep. In severe cases,

be reported either to the municipal police or SES inspectors.

skin grafting is usually required and treatment may last

In such a situation, the mobile application Environmental SOS

several months, explains Sergejs Smirnovs, Traumatologist

downloaded on a mobile phone may be useful since it gives

and Combustiologist of the State Burn Centre.

the possibility to promptly send to the SES not only visual

The difference between phosphorus and amber is that this

information but also site location coordinates. It will make

chemical substance is not as transparent as amber. Specialists

identification and prevention of a threat considerably easier.

emphasise that if you are not sure that a pebble found on the

On the SES homepage, it is possible to follow how each of

beach is real amber, it is better not to pick it up.

such situations is handled.

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48

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Amber Trip fashion show

“IF NOT ME, THEN WHO?”

By Maryte DOMINAITĖ

Studies

at Estonian Institute of Art

I enamelled badges provided

lasted five years. At the Metal

an opportunity to use enamel

department we got theoretical and practical knowledge about

instead of stone; and invitations

artistic processing of metal from smithery to the subtlety of

to participate in exhibitions of

filligree strands. In my opinion, patience and inner peace are

enamel art encouraged to create

main assistants in the jeweller‘s work. During the placement in

compositions of a larger format to

Saint-Petersburg factory “Ruskije samocviety” I grinded stones.

compensate the lack of colours.

Acquired knowledge helped to create and produce stones of

I had courage to implement

non-traditional form for my final thesis. The variety of stone

my ideas guided by the slogan

colours enriched moderate compositions of metal colours.

“if not me, then who?”. I can use

Manufacturing placement in Vilnius Combine “Art” where

the phrase “for the first time” to describe my social activities. For the first time in 1984 in Lithuania, LITEXPO hall the exhibition of enamel art of the Soviet Union artists was organised. Other alternative to trivial ideas of amber use was symposium “Amber” that was held for the first time in Palanga creative work house in 1990. The group of cogenials who completed their studies in Tallinn, met in Palanga and discussed issues and analysed circumstances that understated the significance of amber as a raw material for jewellery. They decided to try and reveal the distinctive beauty of this material in a different way. For the first time in 1991 in the Museum of Applied Arts (Arsenal) the exhibition “Amber in a different way” by the symposium participants was held; similarly, as Lithuania was moving towards freedom it set amber free from establised standards of mass production and provided an opportunity to use it in creative work respectfully, and to open new galleries of modern amber. I hope that

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50

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT exhibitions-competitions, creative and experimental camps

diamond. We adapted the image of angel Magė from the 1984

can open unexpected and interesting opportunities for amber

poster dedicated to a Soviet enamel exhibition.

use.

I have participated in various jury commissions, have been

For the first time in the independent Lithuania, in 1992 the

a collection curator who presented works by the Lithuanian

enamel art symposium was organised by Lithuanians (it had

artists at international events, I also organised exhibitions

been organised by Moscow before) in Palanga creative work

myself and participated in city events. Of course, social

house; later on – an international triennial exhibition of enamel

activities require a lot of time, but patience that has been

art was held in Klaipėda exhibition hall, artists from 37 countries

trained since childhood is of a great help. Now I understand

took part in the event. Unfortunately, due to unfavourable

that helping my mother to untangle confused threads was a

economic situation in Lithuania I was not able to get funds for

certain way of meditation that helped to focus thoughts and

organising further events. Over time a famous Limoges biennial

find time for my own creative work with a wide spectrum

of enamel art that was well-known worldwide disappeared. It

of themes: enamel plaques, amber work, jewellery, pastel,

was replaced by Lithuania. Since 2005 international enamel

glass and other objects. Lack of time makes you select and

art biennials, exhibitions-competitions “Vilnius” have been

implement only the most interesting ideas, while destroying

organised in the gallery “Meno Niša“ and curated by me. This

failed projects and starting them over again.

autumn the sevenths biennial will be held. The main requirement to the participants is to exhibit works that have never been

You can find more information about

shown in Lithuania before and have been created not earlier

INTERNATIONAL BIENNIAL OF ENAMEL ART VILNIUS 2017 at:

than two years ago by using high temperature enamels. Creative works are divided to three categories: flat (plaques), volume (objects) and jewellery. International jury selects laureates

› http://www.menonisa.lt/en

and the main prize is the golden brooch of angel Magė with a

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51

JEWELLERY BECOMES PRECIOUS,

WHEN IT SPREADS WARMTH TO ITS OWNER Interview with Ernesta STATKUTE

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

1

Tell us about yourself; is jewellery a hobby or a profession for you, who did engage you with this field?

I have always enjoyed creative work. In reality, many

people have known me as an interior designer. I graduated from Vilnius College where I studied design; later I continued studies in Florence academy of design. So first of all, I am an interior designer; however, I can truly say that I also have laid a foundation for jewellery. Simply, I had a lot of ideas that I wished to realise in practice in this field. I did not want to forget those ideas; therefore, I started to work hard and implemented them. So this is how jewellery appeared in my life. I think it is not a mistake to say that jewellery is the field that fascinates any woman and men are also not indifferent to it. So I am involved both in interior design and jewellery, and those two fields perfectly complement each other. According to art researcher Ken Robinson, “creativity and original and valuable ideas often come when you see the world from different perspectives.”

I completely agree with it. Coming back to jewellery theme I should add that recently I have graduated from Vilnensis jewellery school where I’ve studied secrets of jewellery from jeweller Darijus Gerlikas, and Tadas Deksnys introduced enamel techniques. I wish that every work of mine would be permeated by positive energy, because only if jewellery spreads warmth to its owner, it will become precious and loved. Connection with the client is very important to me: I wish to hear, understand and feel him / her. I think that only in this case jewellery will “speak” and will reveal the personal charm. My approach to jewellery is perfectly described by the expression that jewellery

great, it attracts people. After all, it is like a piece of sun that

is window on a human body that allows seeing the soul.

accumulated its energy over centuries. To show the luxury of

2

their castles the Middle Age monarchs set up amber rooms.

What material do you like to work with the most?

Amber was also used as a sacred stone that possessed

I make my jewellery goods of gold and silver and

protecting, strengthening and other powers. Today amber

decorate them with precious and semi-precious stones. In

is often associated with happiness, love and health. It is said

reality I use various techniques: forging, casting, denigration,

that the dream will come true if you make a wish and throw a

incrustation, etching, grinding, and enamelling. Again here

handful of amber into fire flames.

you should listen to each material, feel it and be able to make

4

it speak; only in this case the material will dictate an artistic solution.

3

Your work was given the first place in the category of objects without any lengthy discussions in the

competition committee. How such interpretation of the theme “My home” emerged?

Amber. So many young people escape it; what does attract you? What does amber symbolize to you?

I am truly very delighted with this evaluation, it is very

For Lithuanians amber is a part of national identity. It is

important to me. Speaking about the topic, I liked it very much.

our Baltic gold and a source of pride. After all, it could be said

I just experienced it and it developed into the mentioned

that we grew up with amber. I remember that in childhood I

miniature. Idea, materials and forms of expression merged into

was playing with grandmother’s amber brooches, necklaces

harmonious whole. This composition was inspired by Šatrijos

and rings. When you find a piece of amber by the sea, you

Ragana stories “About homeland”. After all, each of us have

imagine a legend about the great goddess Jūratė’s amber

mother who gave life to and grew us. However, Šatrijos Ragana

castle and her tragic love to Kastytis. The power of amber is

also had beautiful stories about our second mother – the land

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53

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

where we and our ancestors were born. It is our homeland,

back; and heart aches because of them pulling…” So in this

our home. And when you go away, you feel that trees are not

miniature a mythical World tree was born, a piece of amber

as green as they should be and flowers do not smell like they

reflecting people and our national identity that accumulated

should. It seems like: “every human being has threads growing

a lot of sun energy. I wished to represent this piece of amber

out of his heart and growing into the homeland; the farther

as a seed, a symbol of life and of potential opportunities. So

from homeland, the more is the tension of threads that pull

maybe these powerful symbols reflected by the miniature made me succeed in the competition.

5

Who is your authority in the jewellery world? Who are the jewellers you admire?

I admire most jewellers; it is difficult to distinguish

somebody. I am amazed by the fact that a person in engaged in creative work, and we grow by creating. I truly like an impressive creative work of a Swiss Professor Otto Kunzli and the work of a young Taiwanese artist Wu Ching Chih. Speaking about Lithuanians I should mention Aleksandas Šepkus from New York, and Eglė Čėjauskaitė-Gintalė.

6

What is the most important jeweller’s feature?

It is important to know that not everything has been

created yet; it should become a stimulus to go forward. Of course, it is important to make a good work, to see that you’ve met the client expectations. Every client who came to the master is an evaluation of his work.

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54

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Amber Trip is moving to LITEXPO, the largest exhibition and conference centre in the Baltic States.

NEW HORIZONS AMBER TRIP Interview with Giedrius GUNTORIUS by Irina SLESAREVA

From 8 to 11 March the annual exhibition Amber Trip, which is the largest event of this kind in the Baltic States, will take place. Vilnius has already acquired an unofficial status of the Baltic jewellery capital because of this exhibition.

The Director of the project Giedrius Guntorius tells about its development in next years and prospects for amber business in the region.

years exhibition was held in one of the best hotels of the capital – “Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva” and it was very important for buyers who lived here throughout all days of the exhibition.

Now transfers from hotels will be available as it is common at all large European exhibitions, for instance, in Vicence. This is a new format and our collaboration with LITEXPO has been planned for the next ten years.

Almost all large European exhibitions offer their guests-buyers special discount visit programmes. Does

This year you have decided to leave XS format and

Amber Trip have such programme?

move to a new platform – the large modern exhibition

Of course, there is a state support for companies

complex LITEXPO. What are the reasons for it? Does a

participating in our exhibition that get a subsidy up to 50 %

large number of exhibits not fit in Radisson Blue? Or is it

of expenses and we pay them 50 % of hotel costs, transfer,

the question of status of Amber Trip?

receptions and cocktails for guests. We also provide a visa

We have already developed Amber Trip project for

support and facilitate preparing customs documentation

fourteen years, we overcame the crisis, declines and growth

if needed. We have a department that has successfully

of economy in the region; therefore, a wish to grow is very

solved these issues for many years, everything functions like

natural to us. Despite the market is not large, all amber business

clock-work and our guests may not worry for their goods or

is concentrated here. Such project is obviously needed for

documentation.

industry to be able to present its products and find customers.

Without any doubts there should be an exhibition

Move to LITEXPO, the largest exhibition and conference centre

at the Baltic market that will connect everybody who is

in the Baltic States, is caused by the fact that our exhibits has

interested in amber goods. It seems, that you can claim a

outgrown the old format. Today we need a different pavilion –

status of amber stock market – a platform where all amber

spacious and beautiful, and also new comfortable stands. We

of the region will be concentrated.

plan to expand the business programme and hold seminars

I have been very much satisfied with the sales results at

and round tables in the equipped conference hall. In general,

Amber Trip. For several years buyers from Japan, Germany, USA,

new platform should correspond to our new tasks. For many

Turkey and Poland visit us. But I would like to emphasize that

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56

LITHUANIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

besides amber Amber Trip offers other assortment of golden and silver jewellery with coloured stones and diamonds.

However, we truly plan to concentrate on amber and position the exhibition as a stock market where raw materials of any size and price could be found. Of course, it is early to announce this officially, but we have such plans; and now we prepare an international forum and a serious business programme. This year we expect groups from USA, Kuwait and Great Britain.

Now when the exhibition has “grown up” are you afraid of it losing its charm and specific refinement it was known for during all these years when buyers and visitors felt visiting not a business event, but being guests of very charismatic owners? Will you still have gypsy parties?

and hold the awarding ceremony during the first days of

We have never saved up money on additional programme;

the exhibition. The topic of this year is Nature morte. This is

therefore, it always has been fun with us and will be the same

a genre that is associated with painting. There are few works

in future. We don’t know yet if we are able to preserve this

in jewellery related to nature morte, maybe because it is

amazing atmosphere. But anyway we will put all our efforts

complicated for authors. However, it is really interesting and

to do this: it is of the same importance to us as to our friends

inspiring. As recommended material amber fits this topic very

and guests.

well because it contains fossilised remains of ancient life – we

This year an annual creative competition to encourage

can call it a natural nature morte. This year participants will be

creative initiatives by beginner designers will take place

awarded by traditional prizes and also will get an opportunity

at the new platform. Will its format be the same as before?

to take part in the thematic exposition where art jewellery will

Yes, of course, during the year we still accept works by designers from various countries and sum up the results

be shown in the context of the modern art.

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Second from the left Mikhail ZATSEPIN, Director General of JSC “Kaliningrad Amber Combine”

II ANNUAL FORUM OF AMBER INDUSTRY WILL TAKE PLACE IN RUSSIA Emergence of the first large platform dedicated to amber promotion gave a new impulse for the industry development. In October 2016 the First economic forum of amber industry took place in Russia, Svetlogorsk City, Kaliningrad Region. The forum brought together all interested participants, first of all Russian, in one place. Market participants are sure that the event should become an attraction point for amber community from all over the world.

Director General of JSC “Kaliningrad Amber Combine” will tell us about the meaning of emergent large platform for amber industry, what should happen in the branch in the nearest future, prices of raw materials and many other things in the interview for “Baltic Jewellery News”.

Mikhail, last year in October Amber Combine held a

place in the exhibition area of Yantar Hall. The exhibition was

large-scale event – Amber forum for the first time. What

attended by guests from the neighbouring countries and also

was the programme and what were interesting things at

Europe, China, Korea and other countries. Amber jewellery

the First Amber Forum?

comprised the largest part of the exposition; it also included

I will start with the fact that we have planned to host the

unique author works: paintings, furniture, museum exhibits

Forum of amber industry in Russia since 2014. Due to various

that were not offered for sale.

objective reasons the project was postponed and, finally, last

Within the business programme management of all

year we did it. We brought the best of all we know about amber

interested departments and industry communities discussed

to one place and the brightest representatives of industry

relevant issues of the current state-of-the-art and development

participated in the event.

of amber industry in Russia and also in the international context.

In three days of exhibition and highly topical business

The most discussed topics were: economical, technological

and cultural programme we showed the most beautiful and

and legal reformation of amber industry; abandoning of raw

modern things. The exhibition and sale of amber goods took

material economy model and forming added value in the

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58

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT industry; development of civilized market of amber industry in Russia and work with international partners and many other topics.

Business programme was developed in blocks in accordance with the most significant directions in industry development: cultural-historical track, tourism track, education track, scientific-innovative track, and marketing session. Over 20 events of different format ranging from a plenary session to master classes, competitions and lectures took place within the

Anton A. ALIHANOV – The Governor of the Kaliningrad region

business programme. We paid a lot of attention to open lessons and interactive activities for children, pupils and students.

As far as we know, the cooperation with WorldSkills,

The main task of this competence is not just to gain an

the largest international non-commercial movement

amber processing skill, but it also includes producing jewellery

in education, began at the First amber forum, and new

goods that meet the requirements of modern trends and

professional competence "Amber processing" was

directions in amber industry.

presented recently.

I would like to point out that WorldSkills is an international

That’s true; one of the competition task modules was tested

non-commercial movement that aims to increase the prestige

at the competition platform of Amber forum. Afterwards, within

of engineering-technical and working professions, and to

half a year the experts developed competition documentation

develop vocational training. The key mission of WorldSkills

and a new competence “Amber processing” was presented

is to develop professional competences, increase the

in February of this year. For us it is a big breakthrough in the

prestige of high quality personnel, to demonstrate the

sphere of professional training for amber industry and we pay

significance of competences for economic growth and

a lot of attention to it in our daily work.

personal success.

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59

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

On the third day of Amber forum Amber Combine held

sun stone and learn many interesting and valuable things

an auction for sale of large exemplars of amber. What

about amber.

is unique about this auction and what was the largest

The second economic forum of amber industry will take

amber stone sold?

place on 28-30 July 2017 in Svetlogorsk in the variety theatre

That’s right, an auction for sale of large stones with the

“Yantar Hall”. It would be dedicated to 70-year anniversary

weight exceeding one kilogram was held at the forum platform.

of the Combine. Many amber processors volunteered to

We had never sold large exemplars of amber before this event.

become members of the organizational committee of the

The starting price of lots depended on the size and quality of

event; therefore, a diverse and rich business programme and

the fossilized resin. Over 76 lots were presented at the auction,

exhibition are expected within the forthcoming forum. We

25 of them consisted of one stone with the weight exceeding

invite all interested participants and guests to visit the Second

1 kg. Participants could see all lots in advance.

annual amber forum!

Russian and foreign companies took part in the auction.

Our guests will see true Kaliningrad amber at the exhibition

According to the auction results, 16 lots were sold, 8 of them

of the forum. I will emphasize that it will be true amber. At the

were amber stones with weight exceeding 1 kg. The highest

exhibition of the forum we will watch very strictly to prevent

price for the lot was 1.5 million rubles; happy owners got a

any imitation of amber or any counterfeit. Manufacturers take

unique and very beautiful uniform stone weighing 1.4 kg.

responsibility for it by their reputation, first of all, in the eyes

Average sales price comprised 383 thousand rubles for 1 kg.

of their colleagues.

Mikhail, in the last year the Combine approved a new trade and sales policy and a new amber classifier. At the same time, prices for raw materials at the Combine increased significantly. Market reaction to such changes was ambiguous. Tell us why such step was taken?

A new organizational standard “Amber” that determined the main requirements to different types of amber was approved to increase the efficiency of company’s operation.

This standard aims to harmonise requirements to different types of amber that has been mined by the Combine with requirements that have been practiced in amber trade at the international markets.

The next step was the development and approval of a new trade and sales policy that determined the main principles of commercial relations of the Combine with customers

What was the effect of this forum and will it become

of amber raw materials, rules and conditions for its sales.

an annual platform capable to unite the world amber

Representatives of amber business communities, including

community?

the associations “Russian Amber” and “Amber Union” took part in the development of trade and sales policy.

As an organizer of the forum, Kaliningrad Amber Combine and also state corporation “Rostekh” that owns 100% of the

Within these consistent steps to implement trade and

combine shares as well as the Government of the Kaliningrad

sales policy Kaliningrad Amber Combine started sales of raw

Region are interested in making it an annual event that would

materials through the open electronic platform of the “Saint-

become the hallmark of the region. We have things to show

Petersburg” exchange.

Application of exchange bidding mechanisms allowed a

and to be proud of. Amber is our true treasure and it is loved all over the world.

timely reaction of the Combine to requirements of the market, including pricing policy and development of an optimum set

The first forum proved the necessity to hold this event

of products for the Combine and its customers.

on an annual basis; therefore, we will host the Second annual amber forum in 2017. We have decided to change the dates

What concerns raw material prices, we are guided by the

and organize the forum in summer so that tourists and guests

exchange biddings and the price that our customers are ready

of the region who come for holidays in summer season would

to pay for raw materials of different fractions. It is an absolutely

have an opportunity to see the best creative works made of

transparent system and prices are determined by the market.

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60

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

The first forum proved the necessity to hold this event on an annual basis; therefore, we will host the SECOND ANNUAL AMBER FORUM IN 2017 If the demand is low we decrease the price, if it is high – we

The task to make amber a world brand is our common

increase it. Monitoring and review of prices are performed

task to be achieved in a constructive interaction and by

every quarter.

common efforts. Perhaps, Amber Combine as one of the largest

The first direct export contract with Chinese company

companies in mining “sun stone” is the most interested party

was signed at the end of 2016. Do you plan to continue

in industry development.

cooperation with other foreign partners?

It is important for us to see the positive dynamics of

After a long break the Combine started to sell products on

industry development. It refers to business needs to get

external markets without involving intermediaries. Multiple

the profit; it is also related with successful projects of amber

negotiations with different foreign companies from China, India,

promotion, tourism, social programmes, emergence of new

Poland, Lithuania and other countries were held. As a result

alternative domains for amber use, modern processing

of these negotiations at the end of the last year the Combine

technologies, fashion and design, new jobs and many other

signed an Agreement on co-operation with a Chinese company

things. A fresh look to the “sun stone” is important.

that is a part of a large vertically integrated jewellery holding.

We often discuss same questions that are indisputably

The agreement foresees a long-term co-operation that

important; but, in my view, it is not constructive to speak

will facilitate the development of the Combine’s activities and

about criminal component, high raw material prices and similar

creation of amber processing cluster in Kaliningrad Region

topics all the time. It is time to develop modern trends, revive

as well as integration of the Combine into the system of

old and create new traditions, to “expand the view” on amber.

international amber turnover.

It is time to get united. After all, in a global scale the industry

The signed contract is the first export agreement of the

development is possible only by joint efforts.

Combine. But we plan to continue this work and have already

We invite all interested parties to take part in a constructive

negotiated with partners from other countries.

dialogue. Platform of the Annual amber forum is an opportunity

Mikhail, what is the direction for industry development

for such dialogue.

in your view?

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61

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

The main market for selling goods of DARVIN studio is Russia; there are 350 trade partners here

ABOUT LOVE TO A UNIQUE PIECE OF AMBER

By Virginija ZYGIENE

Currently, 100 persons are employed at the jewellery studio DARVIN that sells its goods all over the world. It took about two decades to create our own style. “Baltic Jewellery News” interviews the owner of the jewellery studio Viacheslav Darvin about love to a unique piece of amber, distinctive design of jewellery goods, customers and to life in general.

Viacheslav

Darvin confesses that currently there are

more customers who would like to buy jewellery made by DARVIN studio than it can sell. In spite of it, the studio founder assures that even now he devotes a lot time to constant learning.

“I’ve started with amber jewellery and I like it very much.

Amber processing technology is accessible to anyone because it “allows” processing,” – the speaker assures.

The jeweller tells that at the start of his business the ambition to launch mass production failed because most technological processes were much more complicated than he thought.

Since V. Darvin did not complete any jewellery studies, he had to spend several years to take over the experience of Polish and Italian jewellers. The master does not conceal the fact that as majority of businesses he earned his early profits by making amber beads. However, he always had the thought about not limiting himself to earning profits from selling “trivial beads”.

Viacheslav DARVIN owner of the jewellery studio DARVIN

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62

The studio DARVIN established trade representatives in Kaliningrad, Moscow and Hong Kong. V. Darvin also talks

1998–2000 I tried to experiment by leaving unique pieces

about plans to establish trade representative in Vilnius in

of amber in their original form and decorating it with silver.

collaboration with “Amber Trip”. Recently, three retail shops

I’ve started to design jewellery since 2003 or 2004, and

„DARVIN Jewellery“ opened their doors for customers in

until then I learnt from others. The father the better I

Kaliningrad.

understand that one should constantly learn,” – the studio

V. Darvin says that he recognises only traditional trade and

founder assures.

does not sell jewellery on internet. “I am conservative because I think that jewellery is a very intimate good and I would not

CUSTOMER PROFILE

risk buying jewellery on internet where I cannot touch it. On

Currently, DARVIN studio produces silver and golden

the other hand, I acknowledge that there are very successful internet shops,” – the jeweller says.

jewellery with amber, precious and other stones. Most jewellery is designed for women, although there is also a collection for young girls.

When I work with the design of jewellery I never think about woman’s age and cannot guess it. You should remember about the age only when you make a collection for children,“ – the companion smiles.

V. Darvin acknowledges that once he worked with a collection of men jewellery. And although nowadays there is a demand for men jewellery, he has not thought about entering this market. “I definitely have men jewellery, I can safely show it and start mass production; however, I lack time for this work, although I have some ideas,” – the jeweller acknowledges.

He does not wear any jewellery himself and says that such accessories oblige (at least in his case) to wear appropriate

DARVIN studio presents their goods at international

clothes. Jewellery of one kind is good with leisure and sport

exhibitions, including exhibitions in Saint-Petersburg, Breisgau

clothes, while another requires evening clothes.

Freiburg (Germany), Hong Kong and etc. “I have attended “Amber Trip” exhibition for four years. I think that “Amber

MAIN MARKETS

Trip” is the only international framework that does not classify

The main market for selling goods of DARVIN studio is

ideas according to the countries of origin. Love to amber is

Russia; there are 350 trade partners here, while in total there

the most important to the organizer of this event, if you love

are 500 partners worldwide. Jewellery produced by the studio

amber, then the organizer invites you to visit the exhibition

is exported to Europe (mostly to Germany), Southeast Asia,

and become its participant,” – the companion tells.

and Israel.

Currently, there are 120 persons employed at DARVIN

V. Darvin acknowledges that nowadays when amber and

studio, and in 2017 the growth of staff up to 200 persons is

its goods flow to China, he has not enjoyed any achievements

expected.

at Chinese market yet. “Chinese customers are not interested in my jewellery. And I am not interested in goods that are

AMBER AND CHINA

attractive for this market. You can do business in China, but it

V. Darvin is well-known not only because of his studio

is more complicated with jewellery goods there,” – confesses

and social activities. Management of Kaliningrad region and

the speaker.

Kaliningrad Amber Combine listen to his expert opinion. The

He tells that he participated in Hong Kong exhibition

jeweller is a member of the expert council at Kaliningrad Amber

three years in a row, but didn’t find a customer who would

Combine. So what V. Darvin thinks about the popularity of

buy something from the goods catalogue. “There were a lot

amber in the world and about state-of-the-art at the market

of conversations, they arrived to Kaliningrad, but customers

of amber raw materials?

from China didn’t need any contracts, they wanted to buy

“Currently, on the worldwide scale amber is associated

something and that’s all,” – the jeweller says.

with China. If earlier this stone evoked more associations with

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63

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

“I did not like the design of amber jewellery available at the market because everything was the same and poor. In

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

Lithuania and other Baltic countries and the Baltic countries dictated amber fashion (beautiful jewellery, amber landscapes); in case of China everything is more simple – I cannot call amber beads jewellery,” – V. Darvin assures.

According to him, nowadays there is a new situation at the market. China pays a lot for white amber, and transparent amber is not popular in this country.

“White amber has never been popular neither in the Baltic countries, Russia, Poland nor in Europe. How can it be that the price of amber that is attractive for China customers is one and the price of amber they are not interested in is different?

Of course, this is irony. Manufacturers, masters, artists have to find their place, but time is needed for it,” – Kaliningrad jeweller says.

Moreover, Chinese customers messed the market in that way that diamonds are cheaper than amber with gold because Chinese pay for it. For instance, half carat goods with diamonds are cheaper than 50 g amber goods.

“I regret that all amber jewellery market has started to work only for China customers,” – V. Darvin says.

The speaker also acknowledges that there is an odd situation

there is an active work with Russian officials on this issue and

at amber raw materials market and “if amber raw materials will

favourable changes may be also brought with the coming to

become cheaper for Russian and European markets, the design

power of new Kaliningrad governor.

of jewellery will differ.” V. Darvin says that he observes the mix

“The market situation has been changing, but it cannot

of two totally different jewellery cultures – those of Russia and

change very quickly. As it is said, business is not politics;

Europe. For instance, yellow or white gold has been always

although last three years show something different,” – the

popular in Europe, while rose gold was more popular in Russia.

jeweller and expert confesses.

Nowadays rose amber is also popular in Europe.

INVESTMENT PROJECT

What should be done to change the situation at amber market? What role should be played by the Kaliningrad Amber

V. Darvin tells about an implementation of investment

Combine?

tourist project – in spring a German style mill will be opened

“I am convinced that if we want, and we surely want people

in Kaliningrad; and in this mill manufacturing area will be

to wear amber jewellery, we need to become united. I do not

established, research, cultural and tourism projects will be

want only Russians to be engaged in amber production. Why

developed.

shouldn’t we all combine capital, technologies and people?

“It is not a business project. I develop a business township

Although it may sound paradoxical, but today economic

that can be visited by artists from different fields. It is like an

conditions are the best for those who collaborate with Russian

open club. Works could be exposed in the gallery. I will also

companies. Russian companies have no problems in buying

show my own creative works – collections. I have already

amber; therefore, it should be processed together and it will

signed an agreement on excursions with a tourism agency.

save a lot of money,” – V. Darvin persuades.

We will set a restaurant and several rooms to accommodate guests,” – the speaker opens his plans.

He acknowledges that Kaliningrad Amber Combine plays a role of raw material supplier for everybody and there is a wish

He persuades that work provides him with everything

that he would perform this role further. “In my opinion, it is not

what is necessary for his life: “If you love your work you don’t

correct when we speak about amber business. It is necessary

need any hobbies. There are various fields where you work

to work with Russians, because historically we were out of the

and there are also social activities.”

Asked about selling his business to an investor, V. Darvin

board,” – the speaker argues.

answers briefly: “Yes, I would sell, but nobody would buy.”

Currently Russians have difficulties in exporting amber goods that do not contain metal. V. Darvin recognises that

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65

RUSSIAN JEWELLERY REPORT

“JŪRATĖ” – A SPECIAL PRIZE FOR MASTERY

By Jury VELIKOTSKY Chair of the Board – the Main Master of the Kaliningrad Guild of Amber Craftsmen

In

November 2016 the Kaliningrad Guild of Amber Craftsmen celebrated the first anniversary of its

existence. It is pleasant to note that during the last year

number of the guild’s members has increased more than twice.

Numerous showcasing of our works at various exhibitions in Russia and abroad has always generated a great interest and a positive feedback of visitors.

We consider promotion of the art of carving on amber and encouraging authors who aim to achieve high level of creative results one of the major directions of our activities.

For this particular reason we developed an idea to establish

Yuri VELIKOTSKY awarding prize “Jūratė” to jeweller from Riga – Juris GAGAINIS

our own prize. Being a craftsmen guild we have established a prize “For mastery”.

We have decided that our prize should have a background story and we should base the evaluation of works on clearly

In future we plan to award “JŪRATĖ” prize twice a year – at

defined criteria. Both background story and criteria have

one exhibition held in the Kaliningrad Amber Museum and at

been developed and approved by the guild members almost

the “Amber Trip” exhibition in Vilnius. We reserve the right to

immediately.

make partial changes to appearance of the Prize for achieving

In 2013 the member of jury committee of the

the most optimum and expressive form.

“Alatyr”exhibition, chair of the French Guild of Jewelers Pierre-

For the first time, we awarded the “JŪRATĖ” prize at the

Marie Bernard awarded his diploma to the interior object

exhibition “Amber Trip 2016”. Without any doubts, the brooch

“JŪRATĖ”. While explaining his decision he clarified that he

“Flying house” by the Latvian jeweler Juris Gagainis met all

evaluated and enjoyed the work from the artistic point of

above-mentioned criteria.

view – it was created by using amber, it was appropriate to

A famous Kaliningrad artist Liudmila Sacharova has become

the competition theme and it was crafted with a high level

the second winner of our award. Her work “Lights of the

of quality.

night city” was considered the best at the exhibition “Amber

We have decided to use these statements by the famous

Milestones in History” held in Kaliningrad Amber Museum.

master of art jewelry for defining our own criteria for evaluating

Currently, another “JŪRATĖ” prize has been produced

works. Thus,

(No. 3). We are waiting for the exhibition “Amber Trip 2017”

A special prize of the Kaliningrad Guild of Amber Craftsmen

opening impatiently to select the worthy work of those

“JŪRATĖ” is a stylised image of the mermaid with a piece of

presented at the competition and award the author for

amber in her hands. This prize is awarded to an author, whose

demonstrated mastery.

work:

• • • •

Is interesting from the artistic point of view; Is partially or completely made of natural amber; Is appropriate to the competition theme; Demonstrates faultless quality of processing of raw materials and a high level of professional mastery of the author.

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66

Set of “Lights of the night city” by Ludmila SAKHAROVA

Special prize “Jūratė”, by Yuri VELIKOTSKY

Brooch “Flying house” by Juris GAGAINIS

CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT

ASIA PACIFIC IN FINE JEWELLERY

By Jasmine SENG, Global Industry Analyst at Euromonitor International 2016 was a turbulent year for fine jewellery, with key markets India and China heavily impacted by the fall in demand for gold jewellery. Asia Pacific continues to be the largest contributor of fine jewellery in the world taking up 61 % of the market, with China and India leading the market.

India

faced the biggest yearly decline in demand

By 2030, the number of middle income households is

for gold jewellery amidst protests in

expected to increase to 55 % of the total households in South

Q1 2016 against the mandatory PAN card on all jewellery

East Asia. Indonesia and Malaysia are expected to have the

transactions of Rs2 lakh and above. The large-scale strikes

highest percentage of households falling under the middle

which saw many gold jewellers closing their doors, affected

income by 2030, with 31 % of total households in the country

sales. On top of this, the government introduced a 1 % jewellery

being middle income.

excise tax in addition to the 10 % import tax that is already

The rise in the number of middle income households

in place. Demand for gold jewellery in India fell by 22 % from

in South East Asia makes it a hotspot for the consumption

2015–2016, the largest decline in the last seven years.

of discretionary items, with many retailers jumping on the

On the other hand, demand for hard luxury items, such as

bandwagon to tap into this growing market. With the likes

luxury fine jewellery, is in decline in China as consumers are

of Tiffany & Co. opening its first store in Bangkok, Thailand in

looking towards experiences as opposed to the accumulation

2015 and luxury departmental store Takashimaya opening its

of luxury items to gain satisfaction. According to the World

doors in Vietnam mid last year; this reflects the potential in

Gold Council, demand for gold for jewellery purposes fell

South East Asia’s consumption for discretionary items.

by 17 % from 2015 to 2016 in China. However, as demand for travel and tourism is in the midst of a boom. According to

INDONESIA AS THE NEXT KEY AREA OF GROWTH

Euromonitor International’s Global Consumer Trends Survey,

Indonesia has the fourth largest population in the world

42 % of consumers have increased their spending on travel and

and with it is also, South East Asia’s largest economy. Indonesia

48 % of consumers took at least one personal international trip

is expected to see a remarkable over ten-fold increase in

and 26 % took at least one international business trip. Despite

upper middle income bracket consumers from 2015 to 2030.

the stable demand in fine jewellery, demand for luxury fine

Unsurprisingly, fine jewellery is also expected to be the fastest

jewellery declined 5 % from 2015 to 2016.

growing in Indonesia in 2030. The rise in the upper middle

gold jewellery and luxury fine jewellery is falling in China,

income households in Indonesia provides a tremendous

SOUTH EAST ASIA: A BURGEONING OPPORTUNITY FOR FINE JEWELLERY

opportunity for fine jewellery players where the positive

With slowing demand in traditional markets like China

households and the market size for fine jewellery in Indonesia

correlation between the number of upper middle income

and India in Asia Pacific, it is important to look towards other

have been observed for the past 10 years.

pockets of opportunities in Asia Pacific, and this includes South in South East Asia possess strong potential for growth in

DIVERSIFICATION FOR SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT

the market for fine jewellery. Indonesia is expected to see

Top fine jewellery brand in the world, Chow Tai Fook,

the fastest growth rate in Asia Pacific at 7.8 %. Additionally,

which derives more than 90 % of its sales value in the world

other countries within South East Asia to look out for are the

from its business in Greater China (Hong Kong and mainland

Philippines and Thailand, with both markets expecting to see

China), is in a vulnerable position due to its over-dependence

about a 3–4 % growth from 2016 to 2021.

on one geographical location. Tiffany & Co., the world’s third

East Asia. During the forecast period, emerging countries

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68

2016 VS 2030: PERCENTAGE OF MIDDLE CLASS

VALUE

HOUSEHOLDS (AS % OF TOTAL HOUSEHOLDS) IN KEY

CHINESE JEWELLERY REPORT

2016: DISTRIBUTION OF GLOBAL JEWELLERY RETAIL SALES

SOUTH EAST ASIA COUNTRIES Asia Pacific 64 % Rest of the world 5 %

% of Total Households

Europe 10 %

Vietnam Philippines Singapore Thailand

North America 21 %

Malaysia Indonesia

0 %

Source: Euromonitor International

– 2016

5 % 10 %

15 % 20 %

25 %

30 %

35 %

– 2030 Source: Euromonitor International

2010–2016: GOLD JEWELLERY DEMAND IN INDIA Gold Jewellery Demand in Tonnes

MARKET SIZE OF FINE JEWELLERY IN RETAIL RSP (USD

700

MILLION, FIXED 2016 EXCHANGE RATES)

600 500

USD million, fixed 2016 exchange rates

400

1,600

700

300

1,400

600

200

1,200

100

1,000

0

800 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016

Number of Households ('000s)

500 400 300

600

Source: World Gold Council

200

100

100

200 0

0

2011–2016: LUXURY FINE JEWELLERY VS FINE JEWELLERY

2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016

– Fine Jewellery Market

DEMAND IN CHINA

– Upper Middle Income Households Source: Euromonitor International

Retail Sales Value in USD, in millions, year-on-year exchange rates

Retail Sales Value ini USD, in millions, in year-on-year exchange rates

1,800

100,000

ranked fine jewellery player in 2015 and Cartier, the world’s

1,600

90,000

fourth fine jewellery player in 2015, are diversifying their

1,400

80,000

geographical reach within South East Asia in order to tap

70,000

into the rising demand for fine jewellery in the region, with

60,000

Cartier already establishing a presence in Vietnam. With more

1,200 1,000

50,000

800

international brands potentially entering the fine jewellery

40,000

600

market in South East Asia in the next 10 years, this would

30,000

100

20,000

impact the competitive landscape in South East Asia where

200

10,000

regional players are more prominent in each country.

0

0

2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016

– Luxury Fine Jewellery

– Fine Jewellery Source: Euromonitor International

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69

Photo: IJL2016 KickStarters

UK JEWELLERY REPORT

IJL KICKSTART 2017 – the search for the most talented 10 upcoming designers begins Report by INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON Press Office International Jewellery London has launched its highly successful KickStart industry bursary programme. Up-and-coming British jewellery designers can apply to be one of ten exhibiting on a group stand at IJL 2017 – the UK’s premier international jewellery show.

Sam

Willoughby, IJL Event Director, comments:

who feels ready to take their brand to the next level to apply

“KickStart is a fantastic pool of talent,

for this important initiative.”

demonstrating creative flair and technical ingenuity. The stand is a ‘must see’ destination at the show for visitors, providing

Potential KickStarters should apply online

a showcase of some of the most exciting jewellers in the UK

www.jewellerylondon.com/Kickstart .

today. IJL has supported 80 contemporary designers through

Deadline for entries is 10 April 2017.

this programme since 2009.”

The winning KickStart 2017 designers will be at IJL

People’s Choice Winner 2016 Marina Skia adds: “KickStart really helped raise awareness for my brand and showing at

showcasing their work

IJL was a fantastic experience. I recommend every designer

from 3 to 5 September 2017 at Olympia GRAND.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

70

Laboratorium Gemmologiczne Barbara Dembowska

Diamenty w starym szlifie Kamienie kolorowe Rozety diamentowe Naturalne diamenty kolorowe we wszystkich rozmiarach i ksztaltach

Old Cut Diamonds Color Stones Rose Cut Diamonds Natural Fancy Color Diamonds

tel. kom. 602 390 419 tel. / fax +48 (61) 832 14 25 diamondslab@diamondslab.pl www.diamondslab.pl

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

List of open selling prices of amber production of

JSC Kaliningrad Amber Factory March 2017

Amber of commission sorting

Open selling prices (excluding VAT),

Sort 1

EUR/kg

500 g – 1000 g

6269

300 g – 500 g

5642

200 g – 300 g

5134

100 g – 200 g

4620

Amber of weight sorting Sort 1

50 g – 100 g

2925

20 g – 50 g

1989

10 g – 20 g

994

5 g – 10 g

517

Amber of weight sorting Unsorted

2g–5g

230

Amber of filter sorting

2,5–5 g or fraction +16

164

Fraction +14

79

Fraction +11,5

46

Fraction +4–11,5

10

Fraction –11,5+8

12

Fraction –8+4

1

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72

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Price for

Raw Amber March 2017

AMBER FROM RUSSIA Regular Amber Piece Size

Price / 1 kg – EUR

+5 mm fraction

8

+6 mm fraction

12

+8 mm fraction

40

+11,5 mm fraction

70

+14 mm fraction

110

+16 mm fraction

230

2,5 gr. – 5 gr.

280

5 gr. – 10 gr.

550

10 gr. – 20 gr.

1000

20 gr. – 50 gr.

1900

50 gr. – 100 gr.

2800

100 gr. – 200 gr.

3500

200 gr. – 300 gr.

4200

300 gr. – 500 gr

4700

FACTIONS 20–50 G RAW AMBER PRICE CHANGE 2006 FERBRUARY – 2017 MARCH EUR per Ounce 4300 3900 3500 3100 2700 2300 1900 1500 1100 700 300 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017

03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 06 08 03 08 03 08 03

www.quandl.com

If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: info@balticjewellerynews.com

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Price for

Raw Amber March 2017

AMBER FROM POLAND Regular Amber Piece Size

Price / 1 kg – EUR

2 gr. – 5 gr.

370

5 gr. -10 gr.

500

10 gr. – 20 gr.

810

20 gr. – 50 gr.

1620

50 gr. – 100 gr.

2314

100 gr. – 200 gr.

3240

200 gr. – 300 gr.

3703

AMBER FROM UKRAINE Regular Amber Piece Size

Price / 1 kg – EUR

2 gr. – 5 gr.

240

5 gr. – 10 gr.

450

10 gr. – 20 gr.

750

20 gr. – 50 gr.

1500

50 gr. – 100 gr.

2000

100 gr. – 200 gr.

3000

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76

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Price for

Raw Amber March 2017

WHITE ROUND AMBER BALLS Regular Amber Piece Size

Price / 1 g – EUR

5mm – 7mm

3,5

7mm – 10mm

5,5

10 mm – 12 mm

8

12 mm – 15 mm

10

15 mm – 20 mm

17

20 mm and larger

20–30

COGNAC ROUND AMBER BALLS Regular Amber Piece Size

Price / 1 g – EUR

5mm – 10mm white round amber balls

2,5

10mm – 15mm white round amber balls

4,5

15 mm – 20 mm

10,5

20mm and larger

13,5

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77

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide Price for

Amber Silver 925 Jewellery March 2017

Amber Silver 925 Jewellery

Price/g EUR

Handmade 1,90 Machine made

1,60

AMBER SILVER 925 JEWELLERY PRICE CHANGE AUGUST 2010 – AUGUST 2016 EUR / g 3

2

1

0

2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017

08 03 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03 08 03

Handmade

Machine made

www.quandl.com

Data Eur

SILVER PRICE CHANGE 2014 MARCH – JAUNUARY 2017

2017-01-31 16,08 2016-12-31 15,38

EUR per Ounce

2016-09-30 17,33

40

2016-06-30 16,48 2016-03-31 13,52

30

2015-12-31 12,69 2015-09-30 13,06

20

2015-06-30 14,04 2015-03-31 15,45

10

2014-12-31 13,14 2014-09-30 13,60

0

2014-06-30 15,29

2014 2014 2014 2014 2015 2015 2015 2015 2016 2016 2016 2016 2017

03 06 09 12 03 06 09 12 03 06 09 12 01 www.quandl.com

If you have any questions concerning these prices, please, contact our office: info@balticjewellerynews.com

www.balticjewellerynews.com

78

2014-03-31 14,47

Gold Price Monthly avarage gold price change 2016–2017

Data Eur

EUR per troy ounce

29/01/2016 1027,49

1200

29/02/2016 1136,53 31/03/2016 1085,52

1100

29/04/2016 1122,50 31/05/2016 1088,79

1000

30/06/2016 1188,85 29/07/2016 1200,09

900

31/08/2016 1175,53 30/09/2016 1176,81

800

31/10/2016 1160,37

2016 2017 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 1 invest@gold.org

30/11/2016 1110,58 30/12/2016 1086,42 31/01/2017 1122,24

www.balticjewellerynews.com

79

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

The Worldwide

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

OUTLOOK 2017 Global economic trends and their impact on gold Report by WORLD GOLD COUNCIL

In 2016, gold-backed ETFs increased their collective holdings by 536 tonnes (US$21.7bn), the highest since

large numbers to the gold market, as a combination of

2009. And while US-listed gold backed ETFs saw a 40 %

macroeconomic drivers and pent up demand kept interest

plus reduction in their gold holdings in Q4 2016 – relative

in gold high. As we start the new year, there are some concerns

to the three previous quarters – UK, Asian, and Continental

that US dollar strength may limit gold’s appeal. We believe that,

Europe-listed ETFs fell by just 14 %, 9 % and 1 %, respectively.

on the contrary, not only will gold remain highly relevant as a

In all, Europe and Asia accounted for 57 % of total ETF flows

strategic portfolio component, but also six major trends will

last year. And we expect that gold investment demand is

support demand for gold throughout 2017.

likely to remain firm.

The gold price had a strong performance in 2016, rising

CURRENCY DEPRECIATION

close to 10 % in US dollar terms (higher in most other currencies) and amassing multi-year record inflows through physically-

Monetary policy is likely to diverge between the US and

backed gold ETFs – making it one of the best performing assets

other parts of the world. The Fed is widely expected to tighten

last year, despite a post-US election pullback. And the price

monetary policy, but it is far from certain that other central

has gained more than 5 % since the Federal Reserve (Fed)

banks may be willing and/or able to do so.

The situation in Europe is a case in point. As John Nugée

increased rates in mid-December.

But, what does 2017 hold for the gold market?

states: “Europe’s economies are likely to face a continuation of the current tight fiscal, expansionary monetary policy as they

HEIGHTENED POLITICAL AND GEOPOLITICAL RISKS

have for at least the last five years.” Since the European Central

Political risk is rising. Europe will hold key elections in the

January 2015, its balance sheet has increased by approximately

Netherlands, France and Germany in 2017. As John Nugée says,

€1.5 trillion, resulting in an increase of 70 % and bringing the

the election cycle will happen “against a backdrop of continued

current balance sheet total to more than €3.6 trillion.

Bank announced further quantitative easing measures in

citizen unrest, fuelled by the ongoing uneven distribution of

This will inevitably lead to fears of currency depreciation.

economic welfare.” In addition, Britain must negotiate its exit

In fact, over the past century, gold has vastly outperformed

from the European Union.

all major currencies as a means of exchange. One of the reasons

While the UK economy is still expanding, the pound fell

for this is that the available supply of gold changes little over

sharply following the referendum decision and continues to

time – growing only 2 % per year through mine production.

weaken every time the markets sense that there is an increased

In contrast, fiat money can be printed in unlimited quantities

chance of a ‘hard’ Brexit.

to support monetary policies.

In the US, there are positive expectations about some of the economic proposals of President-elect Donald Trump and his team, but there are also concerns. The US dollar has

ALL MAJOR CURRENCIES HAVE DEPRECIATED OVER THE

gained ground since Trump swept to victory last November,

PAST CENTURY RELATIVE TO GOLD*

but uncertainty is rife. Jim O’Sullivan sees “a meaningful risk

Return

that negotiations on trade will turn belligerent” and suggests

120

that “confidence in markets could be affected by geopolitical

100

tensions triggered by the new administration”.

80

As a high-quality, liquid asset, gold benefits from safehaven

60

inflows.

40

Gold is especially effective as a safe have during times

20

of systemic crisis, when investors tend to withdraw from risk

0

assets. As they pull back, gold’s correlation to stocks becomes

1900 1910 1920 1930 1940 1950 1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010

Gold historically performs better than other high-quality liquid

– US dollar – Mark** – Reichsmark – Deutschemark – ECU – Euro – Yen – Pound sterling – Gold

assets during periods of crisis and that makes it an excellent

* As of December 2016.

progressively more negative and its price tends to increase.

** The 'Mark' was the currency of the late German Empire. Originally known as the Goldmark and backed by gold until 1914, it was later called Papermark.

liquidity provider of last resort.

Source: Bl oomberg, GFMS-Thomson Reuters, ICE Benchmark Administration, Metals Focus, World Gold Council

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81

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

THE GOLD MARKET IN 2017 In 2016, investors around the world returned in

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

This difference between gold and fiat currencies can

CHINA AND ASIA EX JAPAN AND CHINA (AXJC) WILL LIKELY

drive gold investment demand as investors seek to preserve

CONTRIBUTE APPROX. 60 % OF GLOBAL GROWTH IN 2017*

capital from depreciating currencies, exemplified by European

Contribution to global growth (%)

investors last year, when they turned to gold through bars, coins

2.0

and ETFs. German investors added 76.8 tonnes of gold (+76 %)

1.5

to ETFs in 2016. They also bought 72.3 tonnes through bars and

1.0

coins between Q1 and Q3 2016 (based on the available data).

0.5

But gold’s relative steadfastness can also support central

0.0

bank demand. To that end, central banks continue to acquire

-0.5

gold as a means of diversifying their foreign reserves and we

-1.0

expect them to continue to do so in 2017.

-1.5

1995 1997 1999 2001 2003 2005 2007 2009 2011 2013 2015 2017 2019

– US

RISING INFLATION EXPECTATIONS Nominal interest rates are widely expected to increase in

Forecast

– China

– Euro area – AxJC

* Courtesy of Standard Charter Research and based on their calculations.

the US this year, but all the economists we spoke to forecast

Source: IMF, Standard Chartered Research

that inflation will rise as well.

An upward inflationary trend is likely to support demand for gold for three reasons. First, gold is historically seen as

In such an environment, gold’s role as a portfolio diversifier

an inflation hedge. Second, higher inflation will keep real

and tail risk hedge is particularly relevant.

interest rates low, which in turn makes gold more attractive.

LONG-TERM ASIAN GROWTH

And third, inflation makes bonds and other fixed income assets less appealing to long-term investors.

Macroeconomic trends in Asia will support economic

Jim O’Sullivan expects US CPI to rise by 2.6 % in 2017.

growth over the coming years and, in our view, this will drive

And “while those inflation numbers are not high by historic

gold demand. In Asian economies, gold demand is generally

standards, they would signal that momentum remains

closely correlated to increasing wealth. And as Asian countries

upward.” He is also concerned about the tightness of the US

have become richer, their demand for gold has increased. The

labour market and consequent wage growth. In Asia, David

combined share of world gold demand for India and China

Mann expects “exports prices to rise,” which may eventually

grew from 25 % in the early 1990s to more than 50 % by 2016.

make their way down to Western consumers.

And other markets such as Vietnam, Thailand and South Korea

In all, the massive amount of stimulus that has been pumped

have vibrant gold markets too.

into the global economy for years may eventually create an

As David Mann notes. “Asia has reduced its economic

upward spiral of price inflation that could surprise investors.

exposure to the West. […] The region has achieved relatively strong growth since the global financial crisis, despite

INFLATED STOCK MARKET VALUATIONS

persistently weak growth in the West. Domestic demand – from

Stock markets had a significant rebound in the last stretch

both consumers and investment – is behind this resilience, and

of 2016. And while some stock markets are just recovering

has cushioned the region against its high degree of openness

from lacklustre multi-year performance, stocks in the US have

to external trade. Asia will account for approximately 60 % of

reached historical highs.

global growth in 2017.”

In many cases, valuations have been elevated, as investors

While jewellery demand in China has suffered from changing

increase their risk exposure in search of returns in a very low

consumer tastes, the investment market has undergone a

yield environment.

remarkable period of development. In little more than 10 years

Until now, investors have used bonds to protect their

its bar and coin market has become one of the world’s largest.

capital in the event of a stock market correction. As rates rise,

China’s gold-backed ETFs continue to grow as well. Investors

this is a less viable option – and in the meantime, the risk of

bought 30.3 tonnes of gold in 2016 through ETFs – an almost

a correction may be increasing. The interconnectedness of

six-fold increase in assets under management. Trading volumes

global financial markets has resulted in a higher frequency

on the Shanghai Gold Exchange are increasing. And interest

and larger magnitude of systemic risks. And as Jim O’Sullivan

in new products continues to increase; we believe innovation

puts it: “The [US economic] expansion will not last forever.”

should continue to support China’s gold market in years to come.

www.balticjewellerynews.com

82

(and even negative) interest rates. In our view, this will result in structurally higher demand.

86 % of India’s circulating cash out of its economy. While the

Innovation is evident across all markets, but at the end

purpose is to replace them with newly printed notes, we

of last year one development stood out. The Accounting

believe that the liquidity squeeze could have a temporary

and Auditing Organisation of Islamic Financial Institutions

negative effect on economic growth, and may also affect gold

(AAOIFI), with support from the World Gold Council, launched

demand in the short term. But more importantly, we believe

the Shari’ah Standard for Gold, opening up the Muslim world

that the transition to transparency and formalisation of the

to gold investment.

economy will lead to stronger Indian growth in the longer term, thus benefitting gold.

Mark Mobius of Franklin Templeton thinks that the new Shari’ah Standard on Gold will be a “game changer.”

Whereas previous Shari’ah rulings were fragmented or

OPENING OF NEW MARKETS

nonexistent, the Standard provides definitive guidance on gold

Gold is becoming more mainstream. Gold-backed ETFs

products, potentially allowing millions of Muslims to invest in

made gold accessible to millions of investors, primarily in

gold. Furthermore, Islamic finance has expanded rapidly in

the West, over the past decade, but other markets continue

recent years with many countries actively promoting this sector

to expand too. China has seen dramatic growth in recent

as part of their economic development and diversification

years through Gold Accumulation Plans, physicallysettled

policies. These factors can potentially propel gold demand

gold contracts in the Shanghai Gold Exchange.

across many Muslim markets from Malaysia, the UAE and

In Japan, pension funds have increased their gold holdings

Saudi Arabia, where Islamic finance is well established, to

over the past few years. In the corporate sector, more than

countries such as Indonesia and Pakistan, which are pushing

200 defined-benefit pension funds have invested in gold.

for Islamic finance to play a greater role in their economic

In addition, more than 160 defined-contribution plans have

infrastructure. With the size of Shari’ahcompliant AUM

added gold to their list of investments.

expected to grow to US$6.5 trillion by 2020, according to the

We expect this trend to continue and expand into Western

Islamic Finance Stability Board, just a 1 % allocation to gold

markets, where pension funds have had to rethink asset

would equate to nearly US$65 billion or 1,700 tonnes in new

allocation strategies following prolonged exposure to low

demand.

SILVAMEX Andrzej Szczypior ul. Kielnieńska 60 80-299 Gdańsk, Poland Tel. (48) 58 5209700 Fax (48) 58 5209701 Mobile. (48) 501 236895

WORLDWIDE JEWELLERY REPORT

In India, the government’s decision to remove large denomination rupee notes (Rs. 500 and Rs. 1,000) took around

INTERNATIONAL AMBER ASSOCIATION REPORT

20 YEARS

OF THE INTERNATIONAL AMBER ASSOCIATION

By Agnieszka KLIKOWICZ, Michał KOSIOR

The Amber Association in Poland, later renamed the International Amber Association was established in Gdańsk, Poland in 1996. Its establishment was preceded by a period of unheard-of rapid development of the amber industry in Poland’s region of Pomerania. During first five years after the change in Poland’s economic system (overthrow of communism), ca. 1.500 new production companies were established in the Gdańsk region, with the increase in employment exceeding 10.000 people.

In

are manufactured and sold. Currently the largest group among our members are producers and retailers of amber and amber products. Other members of IAA are: jewellery designers, scientist, museum workers, collectors and amber enthusiasts.

In its first year, the Association established their aims and guidelines which remains valid until today:

• •

establish a system of identification of Baltic amber be an inspiration and encourage publishing activity on Baltic amber

•

co-operate with schools and vocational training centers to develop educational programmes and to establish criteria for the evaluation of school/ course graduates with regard to the amber jeweller

its first year, the Association approved its logo,

profession and related occupations

designed by Giedymin Jabłoński with the Latin name

•

of the Association and the image of Heliades crying amber

encourage research aimed at the investigation,

tears, published the first issue of the Bursztynisko newsletter

documentation and extraction of amber deposits as

and developed recommendation principles for amber

well as the evaluation of the feasibility of their use

•

companies.

provide aid in establishing a system of permanent regional co-operation for the amber industry

In 1996, the list of the Association’s members included

•

63 people, and since 2014 it has exceeded 300 people from

ensure the sustainable development amber manufacturing

30 countries (40 % of members are from outside Poland). Soon

•

the Association became strong voice of the amber industry, first

secure Baltic amber a high profile in the Polish and foreign market

of Poland and later also other countries where amber products

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84

In the last few years the key milestone for IAA activity was changing of office address , from small premises of the MTG SA Gdańsk International Fair Co. in Gdańsk-Oliwa to spacious interior in the heart of Gdańsk (Old Town). Since 2014 there has been available the Amber Laboratory, fitted with necessary equipment for research and certification of amber objects or forgeries. The IAA Laboratory is available to the general public – everyone can come and have their amber tested and certificated. Clients deliver their supplies to IAA Laboratory from around the world.

Producers and designers are welcome to show their artistic achievements at exhibitions organized within premises of IAA Gallery. Exhibitions are also presented outside of Gdańsk.

Our exhibitions were held in House of Amber in Copenhagen, Museum of Amber in Ribnitz-Damgarten or Archeology Museum in Nove Mesto, Slovenia and many others.

Since the Association’s early years, the main goal was promotion of amber, its knowledge and virtues. Today’s challenges and main goals are: organizing co-operation between Association members, gallery, training courses, publishing, organizing IAA stands on amber and jewellery trade shows, the settlement of disputes between the IAA members and increasingly important research in IAA Laboratory.

During the Association’s 20 years, it has become an organizer and inspirer of a significant number of amberrelated events in Poland and worldwide. The Association and its members have initiated and participated in many international and national exhibitions , symposia, conferences, promotion and publishing initiatives and participated in trade shows, created a fashion for amber jewellery and items decorated with amber which currently are reaching truly high- end prices.

Ganyklų str. 18, LT-00138 Palanga, Lithuania Tel./fax: +370 460 51230; Mob. +370 698 79791 E-mail: info@ambermanus.com www.ambermanus.com

PERSONALITY

WHAT’S THE SILVER’S FUTURE? Interview with Zbigniew KRASKA by Anna SADO The festival SILVER (SREBRO) held in Legnica – an event that is popular, highly regarded in different countries and attended by artists from all over the world – is going to have a different format.

What awaits the participants in the years to come?

Judging by the unabated international interest in

SILVER is an event with many years of tradition. It’s got all

SILVER in Legnica, one might get the impression that

the pros and cons of such marathons. Of course, the traditions

the event is doing well. Meanwhile, the organisers are

are valuable, but the world around is not standing still, recently

considering changes to the format. What are the reasons?

it’s been moving and changing even faster. That’s why it is

Perhaps I will start with the external ones, in which I

necessary to have a periodic “audit” of the event, the strategy

include the social, political and economic situation in Poland

and action concept: are the assumptions realised, what can be

and in Europe. Goo-political events are very likely to have a

improved and how, making sure we don’t make art for art’s

negative influence on cooperation and cultural exchange, so

sake, whether we keep up with the changes in the reality – art,

I’m expecting that the world will be less interested in our event

and in the general sense? We ask ourselves such questions with

too. Maybe we will also limit the scope of our activity... Such

each edition of the Festival. If there’s a need, we implement

an atmosphere isn’t very motivating. Increasing outlays on

the improvements, both to the programme and organisation,

the army has always brought negative outcomes for culture,

on an ongoing basis. Now, however, the external situation

after all, you don’t travel to art exhibitions by armoured

and our reality checks, expectations and ideas require a more

transporters or tanks. I don’t even want to mention here other

serious intervention, thinking everything through from scratch.

global problems, equally lethal for culture... When the time

The ongoing improvements are not sufficient anymore?

Why the need to reconstruct the event from scratch?

of economic prosperity comes to an end , culture, art and jewellery are the first to die...

Because the time has come to carefully consider the

What in this narrower, inner perspective in your

practicality of the festival format, the programme, organisation

opinion needs change?

and logistics of the event. The history has come full circle – I feel

www.balticjewellerynews.com

86

like I did nearly 20 years ago, when, out of the blue, I became the director of the Art Gallery in Legnica and had to decide about the future of SILVER. Back then I decided to continue this unique tradition, however in a different format. Today,

PERSONALITY

SILVER has grown significantly, and we are becoming a kind of victim of this development ,and to a certain extent, success.

We have many new ideas that have not yet been realised, but still up-to-date, though we lack power... Frankly speaking: we don’t have enough power to organise the event. Last year we were close to bankruptcy because of that, as the main sponsor KGHM Polska Miedź S.A. refused to support the Festival – for the first time in 37 years! Saying that it needs to be all analysed from the beginning, I mean that we need to, yet again, look into the basic issues such as the character, size and scope of the event, as well as its organisation and most of all budget.

Because the programme is something I’m not worried about...

Do you have a plan how to get out of such an impasse?

The decision has been made that, despite the risk, we are going to continue SILVER this year in the same format, albeit in a more modest size. What’s next, in the longer term?

I don’t know yet. I’ve decided to devote this year to thinking about the basic issues and consult the Polish and international jewellery and gallery communities. With these people and with the current organisational possibilities and with the sponsor support level comparable to the year 2015, we are still able to organise the Festival of that size, but we are aware that it is the peak of our organisational capabilities. This is where we

Happening of the artistic group Au+

meet our Rubicon – either cross it, or go back. Standing still and gathering dust makes no sense.

Ensuring the financial stability for the Festival that is

problems with assigning the amount needed. Yet another

in 70 per cent subsidised by sponsors and in 20 per cent

idea is based on separating the Festival from the Art Gallery

financed by the state and local authorities’ budget is not

and establishing it as an independent legal entity. There are

going to be easy.

quite a few ideas, though we haven’t been able to decide yet

First of all we have to become independent of the single

which of them would be the optimal one.

sponsor, which means that we have to find more entities willing

Implementing each of those ideas would, naturally,

to support our event financially. It would be perfect if we got a

entail some kind of organisational changes. Are you

long-term sponsorship contract, for many years, or ideally a few

prepared for that?

such sponsors. We must intensify our search, perhaps even use

This also requires refreshing, as – I’ve mentioned – there

crowdfunding. We’ll also have be able to sell the “produced”

are a lot of changes taking place around us, in life, in art, but

exhibitions. In a nutshell, more marketing and direct sales,

also among the artistic generation. Civilizational progress has

which is not going to be easy due to the lack of employees: our

an impact on the methods and forms of artistic practice, but it

team is still very small so don’t have a “fund raising” specialist

also forces us to make changes and revaluate the mentality of

and we all deal with it to some extent. I’m aware that it is

creators and consumers. Our mission, as a public institution,

not a model example of a working organisation. It’s a vicious

remains unchanged in its basic premise: we will still present,

circle: in order to change it, we need more money… Another,

document , promote and make contemporary art and jewellery

a bit more radical idea for salvaging the financial situation of

available. We will also educate and share knowledge about

SILVER is moving the event to a different, bigger and richer

art and jewellery with the society. We want to preserve, but

place, for instance to nearby Wrocław, which wouldn’t have

at the same time enrich the character of the Festival, which

www.balticjewellerynews.com

87

PERSONALITY

Every year Silver means more than 20 exhibitions

in the sphere of presentation could be roughly summed up

a few exhibition cycles, which are in a way “cardinal”, such

as a combination of contemporary, avant-garde “classics”

as Creator Profiles, Silver Schools, Debuts, j-LAB, HOLOWNIA

with young, fresh demonstrations and experiments. The

and “varia”, that are various projects (both exhibitions and

main competition of the Festival will be still theme based and

educational ones). The particular points of the programme

critical. Perhaps we will introduce a change in the way of topic

are mostly prepared by us, some in cooperation with the

selection – in the last few years the biggest responsibility has

organisers, or imported as a whole. This way of constructing

been placed on the general consultant, who for over 20 years

the programme will be continued, but additionally it will

has been Professor Sławomir Fijałkowski from the Academy

be extended by further exhibition cycles and competition

of Fine Arts in Gdańsk. At the moment we are considering the

projects. We are going to announce, among others, a curator

idea of inviting a different European or international curator

competition for a given topic or fitting into a wider profile,

or artist each year and placing the responsibility of designing

for example, the j-LAB (novelty projects, experiments), and

the theme of the competition on them. Another option – to

finally – the fully open competitions, in which the only limit

be discussed – is launching a competition for the slogan of

will be creativity of the participants.

Will all of them still have jewellery as their leading

the leading event of the Festival, that is the competition and

theme?

exhibition.

Further improvements will concern the review of the

Yes, jewellery will remain the main protagonist of the

Festival programme, the details of its content and the method

festival events, but we would like to “flirt” a bit more with

of creation. Let me remind everyone that currently it includes

the design of objects and fashion. We also want to relate to

Jewellery by Timothy CARSON

Jewellery by Alexander BLANK

www.balticjewellerynews.com

88

Jewellery Art that has been taking place since 1979 (until

utensils and everyday objects. The novelty that is favourable

1998 in the format of a review of Polish creators’ works). The

to the openness to the world and new phenomena stated in

competition is of a purely artistic character: it gives precedence

the programme will be establishing a programme council

to the idea, value and the sense of artistic expression of the

of the SILVER Festival that will be responsible for setting the

creator, and the works are evaluated by an international jury

development directions and put forward particular solutions.

panel, composed of eminent goldsmithery personalities

After collecting and organising all of those ideas, a

from Poland and the whole world. The leading themes –

brand new SILVER might be created! But this would start

such as SELF-PORTRAIT, CIRCLE, MINIMUM, CONSTRUCTION-

as of the next year...

DECONSTRUCTION, SEXY, ABSOLUTE BEAUTY, BORDERS, CITY –

I strongly hope so, and perhaps I am not alone. The new

relate to the context of current events not only in the field of

opening means new opportunities that we will try to use with

aesthetics, but also what is widely understood as social reality.

the artists and jewellery art as such in mind. And if our EU

This year’s theme is: IDENTITY.

grant application is successful and we receive a subsidy for the

The Festival is primarily the place of meetings and

our basement adaptation for the exhibition purposes, soon

discussion among the people who are fond of the

everybody in Legnica and in Poland will be able to enjoy the

contemporary jewellery, rather than a scientific or exhibition

permanent exhibition of our international jewellery collection. It

centre. Currently it is accompanied by over 20 exhibitions, a

will really be a brand new quality of “silver Legnica” because the

theoretical seminar, educational and happening auctions, as

fans of this branch of art will be able to admire it all year round,

well as a few additional events (film shows, concerts etc.). The

not only for a month in May. And this is the sense that – despite

last two decades have reinforced the high rank and prestigious

various difficulties – gives us the motivation for the future.

position of the Festival on the international scene: Legnica, a town of 100,000 inhabitants in the southern Poland is visited

THE SILVER FESTIVAL IN LEGNICA

by about 200 foreign visitors during the Festival.

The festival consists of dozens of artistic events, the most important of which is the International Competition of the

› www.galeria.legnica.pl, www.silver.legnica.pl

PERSONALITY

the latest trends under the SMART slogan – from jewellery to

INCLUSIONS

TREASURE FOUND

BY AN ACCIDENT Chinese paleontologist Xing Lida at an amber market in northern Myanmar found one in

a lifetime find. The trader did not understand what he was selling. The amber, which weighs 6.5Â grams, contains bone fragments and feathers, adding to mounting fossil evidence that many dinosaurs sported primitive plumage rather than scales.

The tail section belongs to a young coelurosaurian – from the same group of dinosaurs as the predatory velociraptors and the tyrannosaurus. The sparrow-sized creature could have danced in the palm of your hand. The creature would have had a whip-like tail like a mouse but covered with contour feathers similar to those that give shape and color to birds.

Major Trade Fairs in February 2017 – August 2017 Junwex 2017 Date: 1–5 February, 2017 Location: St. Petersbourg www.junewex.com overseas@restec.ru Jewellery Expo Ukraine 2017 Date: 8–10 February, 2017 Location: Kiev, Ukraine www.kmkya.kiev.ua info@kmkya.kiev.ua Asia Fashion Jewellery & Accessories Fair-March Date: 1–4 March, 2017 Venue: HKCEC, Hong Kong www.asiafja.com salesafj@cmpasia.com XIV International Baltic Jewellery Show Amber Trip Date: 8–11 March, 2017 Location: Vilnius, Lithuania www.ambertrip.com info@ambertrip.com Istanbul Jewelry Show March Date: 16–19 March, 2017 Venue: CNR Expo Center, Istambul, Turkey www.istanbuljewelryshow.com inquiries@rotaforte.com Amberif, International Fair of Amber, Jewellery and Gemstones Date: 22–25 March, 2017 Venue: Exhibition Center Gdansk, Gdansk, Poland http://www.amberif.amberexpo.pl amberif@mtgsa.com.pl ewa.rachon@mtgsa.com.pl BASELWORLD 2017 Date: 23–30 March, 2017 Location: Basel, Switzerland www.baselworld.com visitor@baselworld.com Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe Date: 25–28 March, 2017 Locationa: Messe Freiburg, Freiburg, Germany www.JGF-Europe.com salesjgf-hk@ubm.com

40th Mideast Watch & Jewellery Show 2017 Date: 4–8 April, 2017 Location: Sharjah, United Arab Emirates www.mideastjewellery.com info@expo-centre.ae Aru-2017, 28 International Jewellery Fair Date: 6–9 April 2017 Location: Almaty, Kazakhstan www.kazexpo.kz kazexpo@kazexpo.kz Jewelry Fair Korea Date: 21–24 April, 2017 Location: Seoul, Korea www.jewelfair.com jewelfair@kita.net International Jewelry & Watch Show Abu Dhabi (JWS) Date: 2–6 May, 2017 Location: Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates www.jws.ae Mohamad.mehieddine@reedexpo.ae Oroarezzo Date: 6–9 May, 2017 Location: Arezzo, Italy www.oroarezzo.it oroarezzo@oroarezzo.it IJK –21st International Jewellery Kobe 2017 Date: 17–19 May, 2017 Location: Tokyo, Japan www.ijk-fair.jp ijk-eng@reedexpo.co.jp Junwex New Russian Style Date: 24–29 May, 2017 Location: Moscow, Russia www.eng.rjexpert.ru inter@jnwex.com G.L.D.A. Las Vegas Gem & Jewelry Show Date: 29 May – 1 June, 2017 Location: Las Vegas, USA www.glda.com info@glda.com

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Jovella 2017 Date: 3–4 July, 2017 Venue: Tel Aviv, Israel http://www.stier.co.il/Jovella/index_en.asp expo@stier.co.il JCK Las Vegas Date: 5–8 June, 2017 Venue: Las Vegas, USA www.jckonline.com inquiry@jck.reedexpo.com JUBINALE 2017 Date: 8–10 June, 2017 Venue: Krakow, Poland www.jubinale.com info@jubinale.com India International Jewellery Show Date: August, 2017 (Dates to be confirmed) Venue: Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, India www.iijs.org info@gjepcindia.com Norwegian Gold & Ur Date: 26–28 August, 2017 Venue: Lillestrøm Exhibition's, Norway www.gull-og-ur-messe.no info@gull-og-ur-messe.no Japan Jewellery Fair (JJF) Date: 28–30 August, 2017 Venue: Tokyo, Japan www.japanjewelleryfair.com info@japanjewelleryfair.com AMBERMART Date: 31 August – 2 September, 2017 Venue: Gdansk, Poland www.ambermart.amberexpo.pl ewa.rachon@mtgsa.com.pl September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Date: 13–17 September, 2017 www.Jewellerynetasia.com salesjwf@cmpasia.com

MAJOR JEWELLERY TRADE FAIRS

MAJOR JEWELLERY TRADE FAIRS February 2017 – August 2017

AMBER BLACKSMITH

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GINTARINĖ KALVĖ

Gint ar u dekor uoti rankų dar bo odiniai papuošalai Originalūs, vienetiniai Baltijos gintaro ir natūralios odos papuošalai. Mūsų darbai išskirtiniai, nes kiekvienas dirbinys nuo pradžios iki pabaigos — tai kruopštaus rankų darbo, reikalaujančio daug kantrybės, kruopštumo bei kūrybiškumo, rezultatas. Priklausomai nuo gintaro spalvos, parenkame ir natūralios odos atspalvius. Taip gimsta įspūdingo grožio Baltijos jūros gintaro, „aprengto“ natūralia oda, papuošalai kurie jus džiugins tikrai ilgai.

- +37065637395 (LTU) - +37060792960 (EN) - www.amberblacksmith.eu - ambermanufactures@gmail.com -

This year the following exhibitors in the exhibition AMBER TRIP

are Financed by the EUROPEAN REGIONAL

DEVELOPMENT FUND: UAB Max Solar Energy E. Zumbricko IĮ UAB Silver Amber Dainiaus Miliaus ŪKĮ Amberlita Napoleonas – Amber Jewelery Co A. Jukna RMD Linija Damjon Amber J. Damzens UAB Saniston Baltic Gritpedziai ir KO – Amber by mazukna A.Petkeviciaus prekybos įmonė Amber Home Pajūrio Krantas E. Dunausko Į Amber Tree AMRD Amber Lina Amber Amber Mozaika Romo Balšaičio gintaro dirbtuvė Ambero Sidabrinė kamėja UAB UAB Rufinija Lamberus Hermis Nida Amber Eketa – Amber888 Amber Buy Lašas R. Benečio įm/Vaidenis Gedvilas

AMBER DM AMBER JEWELRY PRODUCTION COMPANY

A VARIETY OF NATURAL BALTIC AMBER PRODUCTS… Mob. tel. (+370) 60613750 Viber (+370) 68759712 Tel/fax. (+370) 44542888

d.miliausuki@yahoo.com info@amberdm.lt Skype: dainius777xxx

WeChat dainiusp88 www.amberdm.lt

D. M I L I US U K I . , S u ke s k m . , K r e t i n g o s r a j . , LT 97 2 5 1 L I T H UA N I A

AMBER JEWELLERY AMBER STONES Taikos pr. 81a–2, Klaipėda, Lithuania Tel. +370 464 955 40 Mob. tel. +370 652 560 56 +370 652 530 52 amberlita2@gmail.com

A M B E R INCLUSIONS

AMBER WARES, INCLUSIONS BERNSTEINSCHMUCK, INKLUSEN GINTARO DIRBINIAI, -

INKLIU ZAI

Amber Inclusions MB Talino 33/1, 05200, Vilnius, Lithuania tel.: +370 699 576 77, +370 646 302 34 e-mail: info@amberinclusions.eu www.amberinclusions.lt www.amberinclusions.eu

www.ambertree.lt

Amber Tree Souvenirs from amber Suvenyrai iš gintaro

www.ambertree.lt Ukmergės g. 221–32, Vilnius, Lithuania info@ambertree.lt Skype – raimis4422

UAB “Rufinija” savo veiklą vykdo jau 12 metų.

Per šiuos metus įgijome daug patirties ir galime pasiūlyti kokybiškos gintaro žaliavos bei platų gaminių pasirinkimą.

UAB "Rufinija" Įmonės kodas 161743820 Rotušės a 2–3, Kretinga Tel. 864791816 Direktorius Algimantas MARTINKUS E-mail: rufinija@gmail.com

Genuine Baltic Sea amber www.nidaamber.com +370 614 93106 Vilnius, Lithuania Darius@nidaamber.com +86 150-2176-3738 Shanghai, China info@nidaamber.com

www.amber888.com info@amber888.com tel./viber +370 618 66 239 www.facebook.com/baltic.amber.52 WeChat: remiamber

Uab EKETA Pasienieciu 33 Kretinga Lithuania

When I first picked up a piece of amber, I made a brooch from it. For me it was simple, cute and beautiful. It all started as a hobby. Little by little it became a full time normal work. Work to me is a pleasure. I established my own company in 1995. It is an Individual company, family business. All family members are participants in this business.

My products are marketed in the local market as well as in other countries.

My wish is very simple: if you liked my work pieces, let it reache your home.

www.amberbuy.com

OWNER OF THE R. LITVINO COMPANY

+370 696 000 17 info@amberpictures.eu ww.amberpictures.eu

XV INTERNATIONAL BALTIC JEWELLERY SHOW

AMBER TRIP MARCH, 2018 LITEXPO

LAISVES AV. 5, VILNIUS, LITHUANIA

P i

€

TEL. +370 618 53538 • info@ambertrip.com • www.ambertrip.com