August-September 2009

Vol 4 • #4 august-september 2009

The Local Take on Good Food, Fine Wine & more‌

on the farm

Springfield Farm

in the kitchen

at Artful Gourmet Bistro

our common table

Baltimore Food & Faith Project

a reason for the season

Summer's Bounty

wine talk

The Perfect Red

after dinner

Hilarious Hampden Scenes complimentary

STEAMED CRABS & MARYLAND SEAFOOD STEAMED CRABS & MARYLAND SEAFOOD ~ BALTIMORE’S BEST ~ STEAMED CRABS & MARYLAND SEAFOOD ~ BALTIMORE’S BEST ~ STEAMED CRABS & MARYLAND SEAFOOD

~ BALTIMORE’S BEST ~ ~ BALTIMORE’S BEST ~

ERIC HAMILTON

Where the locals go!

Where the locals go!

Where the locals go!

410-276-8900 Where the locals go!

410-276-8900 410-276-8900 Minutes from the Inner Harbor 410-276-8900 MinutesON from the Inner Harbor THE WATER

ERIC HAMILTON ERIC HAMILTON ERIC HAMILTON

www.cantondockside.com • 3301 Boston Street, Canton www.cantondockside.com • 3301 Boston Street, Canton www.cantondockside.com • 3301 Boston Street, Canton www.cantondockside.com • 3301 Boston Street, Canton

MinutesON from the Inner Harbor THE WATER MinutesON from the Inner Harbor THE WATER ON THE WATER

C

an't believe this summer has slipped by! I was in Northern Italy for 2 weeks and have many food stories to share! The food and its local old fashioned goodness everyday had me thinking so much about the way we eat at home... The plentiful food and family is cherished at every meal. No paper plates, straight washing every single dish, cup, plate, coffee cup, etc…. When we were done with lunch dishes, set the table for dinner! There are lots of efforts in and around Baltimore to get back to the way it should be and eat SLOWLY. Teaching our children this is also very important, especially as they are getting back to school this fall.

Here are a few websites to check out to get these local and abundant foods in our schools and for our children. I am taking part, this fall, to carry on and teach our children how food is SUPPOSED to be eaten and get these foods in our schools. No more processed junk. Get on board with one of these websites: www.slowfoodbaltimore.com

|

www.farmtoschool.org

|

www.healthyschoolmeals.org

And don't forget to come to the "Stoop" on Nov. 2 as I share one of these fabulous food stories from Italy. Visit: www.stoopstorytelling.com to find out more. nd

principal • celeste corsaro •contributing writers stan bliden celeste corsaro kerry dunnington scooter holt bonnie north randi rom john shields •layout & design jaime leiner •photography dave kone •founder bonnie north •sales & marketing celeste corsaro celeste@baltimoreeats.com 443.465.6076 baltimore eats magazine is published by local eats, llc a baltimore-based, independent publisher p.o. box 8630, elkridge, md 21075 baltimore eats magazine is printed by Cavanaugh Press •linda j. dragonuk, 443.690.4241 Copyright 2009. All rights reserved. Reproduction without expressed permission is prohibited.

august - september • 2009 departments Celeste’s corner - 3

the Charm City Scoop

On THE FARM - 6

Dave Smith of Springfield Farm

in the kitchen - 10

at Artful Gourmet Bistro

OUR COMMON TABLE - 14

Baltimore Food & Faith Project

A Reason for the Season - 20 Summer's Bounty

WINE TALK - 24 The Perfect Red

AFTER DINNER - 28

Hilarious Hampden Scenes

summer

restAurAnt Week August 7-16

S

A different kind

of delicious dAily.

S

3 Courses

• • + 90 Restaurants • $30.09

Culinary Events

†

76AI>BDG: G:HI6JG6CI L::@ For a list of participating restaurants or to make a reservation:

BaltimoreRestaurantWeek.com

†

Price per person, not including liquor, tax and gratuity.

Some restrictions may apply.

4 • august-september 09

www.baltimoreeats.com

great food good company a classic american tavern

1702 Thames Street • Fells Point • Maryland, 21231 • 410.563.5423 • www.koopers.com

I

Best Pint of Guinness this side of Ireland J Irish Breakfast served all day, everyday

1700 Thames Street • 410.563.6600 www.slaintepub.com

Rooftop Waterfront View

Caribbean Cuisine

Island Cocktails

Live Music

a

821 South Broadway. Corner of Thames st. • Upstairs from Slainte • www.woodysrumbar.com www.baltimoreeats.com

august-september 09 • 5

ON THE FARM

I

t ’s a beautiful drive

out to Springfield Farm.

Once you’ve left the zoom of I-83 the road is narrow, winding gracefully up and down the rolling hills of Baltimore County. Miraculously, the pastoral landscape here isn’t marred with encroaching developments and what one senses, is the history of the area—a place where wealth and prosperity have always been wedded to hard work and good farmland.

Springfield was originally part of the immense holdings of the Gorsuch family. According to old land records, a Quaker named Charles Gorsuch once owned land reaching from west of Hereford almost out to Frederick.

Comprising just 67 acres of that original tract, Springfield Farm gets its name from the four running streams and the natural springs that bubble out from the hillsides on the property.

The farm was eventually passed down more than 17 generations to David Smith, a smart and savvy retired Army Colonel, who has put the place on the “Locavore” map by standing out as one of the strongest proponents of the “Farm to Table” movement in our area.

Don’t let those bib overalls, mucking boots and visor cap fool you, David is a worldly man. His career with the U.S. Army took him all over Europe and the Middle East. In fact he met his wife Lily, while stationed in France, “We had to bring along an interpreter on our first dates. She didn’t speak English and I didn’t speak French!”

David laughs… When he retired from the Army he took a job as a marketing specialist with the military contractor Raytheon. This kind of experience didn’t go to waste when 6 • august-september 09

he decided to roll up his sleeves and revive the family farm at Springfield.

For one thing, David Smith was one of the first small farmers around here to see the possibilities of selling locally and direct to individual families and area restaurants. With the assistance of a small grant from the USDA’s Small Farm Success Project, Smith hired a communications firm to design and print a logo and brochure. The first time I met David was back in 2004 when he appeared at a Chesapeake Sustainable Business Alliance meeting dressed in those bibs and a green hat with the Springfield Farm logo…a display of fresh eggs laid out, brochures on hand, and a laptop running a PowerPoint presentation about the farm.

David’s savvy and commitment went much deeper than just smart marketing though. Early on he made a point of meeting and getting to know Joel Salatin, whose 550 acre Polyface Farm in northern Virginia has been immortalized in food author Michael

David Smith Wrought a revival to the farm that has been in his family for 18 generations.

photography by: dave kone

Springfield Farm Pollan’s books—most notably, The Omnivore’s Dilemma. At Polyface, Salatin pioneered an ecologically healthy approach to farming that has proven to be more profitable and environmentally sustainable than industrial farming.

another 6 weeks or so before they get up to speed. They’ll be effective egg layers until April or so next year. Then they’ll go into what they call a ‘molt’ for a month or 2, and then they’ll crank up again. This is a completely natural cycle.”

At Springfield, David and his family have built their practices on the Polyface model. Two daughters and their families live on the farm— Valerie, Doug, Danielle and David Lafferty; and Catherine, Rachel and Jennifer Webb. The three generations all work hard to assure that the animals are treated humanely—they use no hormones, antibiotics, or heavy chemicals on the farm. Springfield produces chicken, duck and goose eggs; grass-fed and natural beef, lamb, pork and rabbit; a variety of poultry: chicken, duck (seasonal spring to fall), goose (seasonal Thanksgiving to Christmas), and turkey.

At Springfield they usually keep the laying hens for 2 or 3 cycles depending upon the season and the demand.

Walking out to tour the poultry pastures David explains the business end of producing genuine free-range eggs. “These birds we bring in are, ‘ready to lay.’ This group came in March at 15 weeks old. It takes about

Turkeys destined for the holiday table are also an important part of the poultry operation. “We’ve got something like 600 of the heritage turkeys here right now. These we actually birth, or hatch, right here.

In addition to the natural open-field grazing, the pastured flocks eat a locally produced blend of corn, roasted soybean meal, vitamins and minerals.

This healthy diet and lifestyle pays off too. In 2007, Mother Earth News tested eggs from both commercial and pastured chickens and proved that pastured birds produce healthier eggs.

Of the 14 free-range flocks tested, Springfield Farm had the lowest saturated fat content and the lowest cholesterol. continued

www.baltimoreeats.com

august-september 09 • 7

Another aspect of Salatin’s success that David has duplicated is diversification.

He calls it “relationship marketing,” and it means developing a broad field of buyers through farmers’ markets, on-farm sales, restaurants, and neighborhood buying clubs. Springfield Farm participates in the new Sunday market at the Jewish Community Center in Owings Mills, the Saturday farmers’ market in Baltimore’s Harbor East and the Bethesda farmers’ market on Tuesdays. The on-site farm store is open for business Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 5:30pm. David himself makes deliveries every week to restaurants and independent groceries.

“Demand is exploding,” Smith says.

Smith has formed partnerships with other independent farming operations to meet the ever-growing demand for healthy meat and dairy products.

Springfield Farm is pro-active in many organizations that strive to improve the lives of smaller farmers: Slow Food USA, the American Pastured Poultry Producers Association, the Humane Society of the United States and the Animal Welfare Institute. They also offer what they call “Agri-tainment.”

Customers, their families, and friends often visit the farm, bring a picnic and enjoy the great outdoors, and visitors are always welcome by appointment.

Springfield Farm www.O ur S pringfieldFarm .com

410.472.0738 Bonnie North is the founder of The Learning Through Growing Project, which is engaged in planting gardens in Baltimore schools.

8 • august-september 09

www.baltimoreeats.com

Mt. Washington

Harbor East

Monday-Sunday 8am to 9pm

Monday-Saturday 8am-10pm Sunday 8am-9pm

Store Hours

*Free parking at both locations!

Store Hours

*Cafe Open at 7am

IN THE K I TCHEN

at

A

Artful Gourmet

rtful gourmet bistro's executive chef and owner

Paolo Romeo, and his wife Julie are one of a handful of husband and wife teams on the Baltimore restaurant scene. He is the personable, culinary artist handling the backend, while she operates the business affairs, though by Paolo’s own admission—she is the boss.

Chef Romeo is self-taught, hails from Naples, Italy and started cooking at the age of 16. He believes he was born with the talent to learn and received what he calls a genetic education of the art and appreciation of creating and eating good food. His mother taught him how to prepare her original Italian dishes and she served as a catalyst—guiding him into the life of a gastronome. He also learned how to pair wine with food, as his father made his own wine and his grandfather owned a vineyard. www.A rtfulG ourmet.com

10 • august-september 09

| 410.356.2606

www.baltimoreeats.com

photo: dave kone

neighborhood. In fact, the restaurant He always knew he wanted to be a opened in 2002 at another location in chef and create challenges by fusing the same shopping center but in order different cuisines. Romeo takes pleasure to keep up with demand they moved to in being a connoisseur of good food and a larger place after three years. In 2007 has a natural talent for bringing flavors they opened their bar; it features happy together. When asked about some of his hour specials every night and acoustic favorite moments as a chef, he at first music on Thursday nights. Chef Romeo replied in his inimitable wit—“what recounts that one night, during a heavy happens in Vegas stays in Vegas.” He snow storm the restaurant was packed continued by saying that he has enjoyed with locals and the camaraderie was catering a number of in-home jobs for such that there was an impromptu singEd Reed, the Baltimore Ravens safety. along—starting with the theme for Chef Romeo created his menu so that Cheers. it would offer enough variations to Artful Gourmet Bistro has received suit customers' varied tastes as well as a number of accolades including being their moods. The menu offers Italian rated one of the "Top Ten Restaurants fare and contemporary cuisine with an in Baltimore" by OpenTable and "Best international flair that includes French, Neighborhood Caribbean and Restaurant" by Latino influences.

Baltimore Magazine.

The menu changes That success has twice a year and spurred Romeo to adds new items along open (in August) with the mainstays the Upper Crust that are popular Pizza & Grille in the with his regular Owings Mills Valley customers. The Village shopping dishes are presented center. It will feature in an appealing The "Degas"—Shrimp kabobs grilled gourmet pizza and manner and are with vegetables in a herb wine cheese steak subs named after famous marinade served over saffron rice. with carved sirloin artists. For example– on a baguette. the “Raphael” is a healthy portion of pork chop topped The restaurant is designed to create with creamy Dijon sauce, served with a warm atmosphere and is known for red skin mashed potatoes and sautéed good food and good company. Vibrant broccoli. Another customer favorite is colors adorn the walls and in keeping the “Mona Lisa”—grilled salmon topped with the art theme, reproductions from with chopped tomatoes in a rose cream famous artists are showcased including sauce over mashed potatoes. Romeo Degas, Klimt and Da Vinci. considers his signature dish to be one of During the day the restaurant is less the five daily specials that are crafted formal and customers order at the based on his creative instincts and his counter: in the evening it is transformed ability and imagination to invent and into a comfortable white tablecloth produce unique dishes. spot.

Paolo and Julie chose the location Chef Romeo says the design is based on because they wanted a place that would his motto—“Cooking is an expression of provide a comfortable atmosphere art and dining is an experience of the art for the Owings Mills area. It has of cuisine.” also become a destination—drawing customers from Pikesville, Towson and Randi Rom is President of RJ Rom & Associates, Mount Washington. The restaurant specializing in events, promotions and branding. is considered “the place to go” in the RandiRom@comcast.net

Café Gia Ristorante is thrilled to announce the impending arrival of our liquor license!

Café Gia Ristorante 410 S.High St. • Baltimore, MD 21202 "...distinct restaurant with fine Sicilian food..."

- Baltimore Magazine "...utterly casual yet sophisticated, urban yet homespun..."

- Baltimore Sun "...every neighborhood should have a corner spot like Café Gia..."

- Baltimore City Paper

www.cafegias.com 410-685-6727

www.michorestaurant.com

Grand Opening

Located in Historical Reisterstown, Maryland

Micho Restaurant features three ways to enjoy your dining experience. Fine dine in our quiet, formal dining room, enjoy a casual bite or happy hour with quality live entertainment on our covered outdoor patio - or - experience an intimate concert in our performing arts center, Stage 35 Main Street. All dining venues promise an extensive Mediterranean tapas menu & music inspired spirits.

HOURS OF OPERATION SAT & SUN 11:30AM-2AM / MON THRU THURS 4PM-2AM / FRI 3PM-2AM HAPPY HOUR / SUN THRU SAT 4PM-7PM / MON 4PM-7PM & 11PM-1AM / THU LADIES NIGHT FEATURING $5 MARTINIS

MICHO’S . 35

12 • august-september 09

MAIN STREET

.

Stage 35 Main Street is a live, performing arts center showcasing a fantastic mix of local and national music acts.

Venues include jazz, blues, R&B, soul and rock performed on two stages - six nights a week!

“Loved it, loved it, loved it...thought I was in New York!”

“Stage 35 is the best thing that has happened to the live entertainment scene in Baltimore in two decades”

410.517.3939 REISTERSTOWN, MARYLAND

www.baltimoreeats.com

21136

OUR COMMON TABLE

P reaching Food & Faith — To M ore Than The Choir

U

s

"locavore-try-to -be"

folks religiously attend endless lectures, seminars, conferences, and support restaurants that serve regional fare. Despite our sincere efforts, sometimes it feels like we’re preaching to the choir.

The Johns Hopkins Center for a Livable Future decided that preaching, to more than the choir, is exactly what was needed to reach a broader audience. Since my concept of Our Common Table was inspired by early practices in monastic communities of Christendom, where food, drink, and care for one another, converge at the common table, I was honored when invited to serve on their advisory board at the launching of the Baltimore Food and Faith Project (BFFP) in 2007.

Since then the BFFP has forged creative and practical partnerships with religious organizations of all traditions. Building upon the spiritual Chefs Ad small tenants space horizontal:Layout 1 the 3/18/09 and ethical that all share,

BFFP works to create a dialog around the implications of the way our society values, produces, distributes, prepares, and consumes food. The BFFP publishes a quarterly newsletter, holds interfaith workshops, a summer film series and gives educational presentations to interested congregational groups.

That’s hardly where it ends though.

The BFFP works to translate its values into real, practical actions too.

Area congregations are assisted in setting up arrangements with local Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) farms that bring wholesome and fresh food to the under-served inner city. Some CSAs, like One Straw Farm, even agree to tithe, bringing one extra share for every 10 subscribed.

Another important component to healthier eating is creating a garden.

In 2009 the Baltimore Food and Faith Project helped initiate a number of gardens at churches and in parochial 5:07 PM Page 1 schools throughout the area with

Roasted and butterflied lobster with a cucumber citrus floral mélange

fashionable catered events chefsexpressions.com 410-561-CHEF 14 • august-september 09

www.baltimoreeats.com

thoughts from

John Shields

start-up grant monies and technical assistance. This spring BFFP hosted an open tour of Baltimore’s faith-based gardens, encouraging other faith communities to think about starting a garden of their own.

Many of us remember our parents or grandparents hauling out their time worn canning pots and pressure cookers to “put up” foods for the coming winter. Unfortunately, canning is a skill that in recent times has been relegated to the place of the rotary phone! But when people begin to grow their own food the next logical step is preserving—and out come the pots. BFFP has held three food-preserving classes so far, and all have been filled to capacity.

The Baltimore Food and Faith Project continues to grow by reaching out to people of all backgrounds.

Young and old join in and it’s a beautiful thing to see the generations reconnect with each other and keep traditional food ways alive. All these efforts help to animate the local food economy and to restore the very health of our people. It makes the Locavore Movement not just a concept, but a day-to-day reality.

John Shields is the owner of Gertrude’s at the BMA and the author of Chesapeake Bay Cooking and Coastal Cooking. Coastal Cooking with John Shields, airs on PBS nationwide.

www.baltimoreeats.com

John@JohnShields.com

august-september 09 • 15

BARTENDERS PUB 2218 Boston Street Baltimore, Maryland 21231 (p) 410-534-BEER (2337) (f) 410-534-2338

eats: [eets] noun — 1. food exchange: [iks-cheynj] noun — 1. to trade or deal

www.bartendersbaltimore.com Facebook: Bartenders Pub

F

Doing business in Baltimore City e for over 100 years and 5 generations.

a s t

www.sunofitaly.com

F

@4

e a s t

@4

east

delightful food, sustainably sourced prepared simply w/a French-mediterranean flair

east

thursday • Friday • saturday byob 5:30 - 9:00 byob 4 east madison st, baltimore, md 410.605.2020

delightful food, sustainably sourced www.4eastmadisoninn.com/feast prepared simply w/a French-mediterranean flair

thursday • Friday • saturday byob 5:30 - 9:00 byob 4 east madison st, baltimore, md 410.605.2020 www.4eastmadisoninn.com/feast

cakelove.com 410.522.1825 the can company ● 2500 Boston Street Baltimore, Maryland 21224

The most universal Seasonings & Rubs on the market.

Serving breakfast, lunch, dinner & drinks everyday

100% All Natural Seasonings & Rubs -NO MSG and Gluten Free-

410-234-0235

www.toddsdirt.com remember , it is always a good time to get

16 • august-september 09

902 S. Charles Street Baltimore, Maryland 21230

DIRTY!!

www.metrobalto.com Facebook: Metropolitan Coffeehouse & Wine Bar

www.baltimoreeats.com

CA P TA I N L A R RY ’ S BA R & GR ILL

baltimore's sustainable coffee source

601 E . FORT AV E .

BA LT I MOR E , M D TM

410 -727-4799 w w w .CA P TA I NL A R RYS . c o m

thank you for supporting locally roasted coffee

www. b lu eb i r dco ffee . com

FARMERS MARKET JCC at the

Little Havana & Bent Fork Catering 1325 Key Highway Baltimore, MD 21230 410.837.9903

Every Sunday • 8am-Noon 3506 Gwynnbrook Ave. (Owings Mills JCC)

www.littlehavanas.com Facebook: Little Havana

www.owingsmillsfarmersmarket.com

www.baltimoreeats.com

august-september 09 • 17

Afternoon cake and espresso. An early evening nosh with cocktails. A soup to nuts dinner for two or four or more. For good food and fun à la mode in historic Fells Point.

1636 THAMES STREET HISTORIC FELLS POINT BALTIMORE, MD 21231 410-534-MELI (6354) 18 • august-september 09

www.baltimoreeats.com

“1/2”

- Elizabeth Large, Baltimore Sun “Best Restaurant” - Baltimore Magazine 2006, 2007 & 2008 “Best Wine Bar” - City Paper 2008 “Best Wine List”- Baltimore Magazine

921 e. fort ave baltimore 21230 at the Foundry on Fort

410.244.6166

www.The-Wine-Market.com lunch: Tues – Fri dinner: daily brunch: sunday

here is a new place for happy hour on Light Street, Monday–Friday hours are 3 p.m. – 6 p.m.

An American bistro with an urban eclectic atmosphere.

Call 410-962-1220 for more details.

RESIDENCE INN BY MARRIOTT BALTIMORE DOWNTOWN/INNER HARBOR 17 LIGHT STREET, BALTIMORE, MD 21202 www.baltimoreeats.com

august-september 09 • 19

A REASON FOR THE SEASON

I

t ’s my favorite time of year because so many foods are

in the height of their growing season. I relish the abundance. Zucchini, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and onions are just some of the vegetables available now. This nutritious, colorful bounty gives reason to showcase them in all sorts of different ways. Here are three favorite summer recipes that are representative of the season’s glorious harvest.

gazpacho

Over the years I have prepared many renditions of the popular Spanish cold soup Gazpacho. This recipe, (featured in my forthcoming cookbook, Planet, Kitchen, Table) is my favorite. It differs from the traditional preparation method, half the vegetables are pureed which gives the soup base extra body. On those sweltering summer days when heavy meals don’t appeal, this soup is all you need to satisfy, but if you want to serve with complementing sides, here are a few favorites; deviled eggs, Ciabatta bread, smoked white fish, steamed shrimp, cornbread and/or slices of grilled salmon, chicken or beef. Plan accordingly, the soup is best prepared in advance and should be served very cold.

• 2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, cored • 1 large cucumber, peeled, seeds removed • 1 medium onion, peeled & halved • 1 green pepper, halved & seeded • 4 garlic cloves, minced • 3 cups tomato juice

• 1 Tbsp. olive oil • A few dashes Tabasco sauce • ¼ tsp. salt • Several grindings fresh black pepper • Croutons for garnish, if desired

In a food processor, combine one tomato, half the cucumber, half the onion, half green pepper and one cup of tomato juice. Puree until well-blended. Transfer to a large container. Chop the remaining tomato, cucumber, onion and green pepper.

Add chopped vegetables, garlic, remaining two cups tomato juice, olive oil, salt and pepper to puree mixture, stir until well combined. Chill until ready to serve. Garnish with croutons if desired.

Serves 6

Kerry Dunnington Catering seasonal, local, organic

410-243-3508 thisbookcooks@verizon.net

www.kerrydunnington.com

20 • august-september 09

www.baltimoreeats.com

by:

Kerry Dunnington

Wa r m Zucc h in i Salad

T he s e c re tossed w t to t h is delic io us it h t he r oom t em , u n iq ue, c row t u r n ing d-plea sin p e r at u r e out a d is g d ish is h w it h a v t he w a r welcom eget ables. T h is m e a nd u n t ec h n iq • 2 med ue ba rely d ressing u su a l t e ium zucc x h t w ilt s t h in u i, r e unpeeled . julienne s em , cut into trips thin • 1 sma 1 •

ll red pep ∕ 3 cup wa lnuts, cho per, cut in strips pp e d to thin ju • 2 Tbsp li . seasone e nn e • 2 med d ri c • e vinega

¼ ium shall tsp. salt r ots, thinly • ¼ cup sl • ic

1 ed olive oil tsp. suga r • Salt an d p epp er In a larg to taste e bowl, to medium heat, hea ss zucchini with t oil and red pepp careful n sauté wa er and sh ot lnuts for allots. In pepper. P to burn. Remove ab o u t 5 a sauté from hea our warm minute pan over ta dressing over zucc nd stir in vinegar, s, stirring frequen hini and tly being su g a r, se toss. Serv e immed ason with salt an d iately.

S e r ve s 4

ea k s

g sp asil r me noth in is colorf u l a a nd B becau se fo it h Pas t , th d w In ie p if s. n e im o o r Sh tom at ty pers e M a ryla nd er si mplici rd ing ly, th

acco l a nd is su m m m mer ba si avors. Pla n T h is d ish at ion of fl a n fresh su in th b s e m m co lu y more vo fi nd a ta st dva nce. e you w il l pa red in a re p st m a in entré e b sh ri mp a re pa st a a nd oled P a s ta cooked & co ed w tie pasta o b led & devein . lb ee g p n ½ ,

si • s ed m ea Dre st p m s rge shri h basil leave peas, thawed • 1½ lbs. la • 3 cups fres d or frozen ke o ks co h es fr e oil bite-size chun • 2 cups • ½ cup oliv toes cut into egar a n m vi to ce e ri p ri ed ason • 2 large • ¼ cup se ss until fully er to taste p ep p d n r and proce toes. Just a o ss ce • Salt ro p d toma a food p, peas an redients in m g ri in sh g , a in st ss a S e rve s 6 ll dre bine p Combine a e bowl, com g. rg la a In . d in incorporate , toss p asta with dress ing before serv oming ks. Her forthc on. is Book Coo so Th s ve of el or sh th e au bookstor ngton is the cted to be on pe Kerry Dunni ex is e bl n, Ta anet, Kitche cookbook Pl

410.343.2277

22 • august-september 09

410.343.2277

www.baltimoreeats.com

Italian Lessons: “tradizionale ed innovativo” Enjoy both traditional and innovative Italian dishes in our fine-dining atmosphere.

“perfezione” Under the direction of Celebrity Chef Tony Gambino, every dish is prepared to absolute perfection.

“squisito”

Delicious. The only word you’ll need to know.

CIAO BELLA 236 South High Street Little Italy, Baltimore 410-685-7733

W INE TALK

I

• The

Perfect Red •

t ’s august, time to pack

the Citroën and head to the South of France. Wait a minute, this is Baltimore, I’m packing the SUV and heading "downy ocean, hon."

Packed securely with the beach umbrella and my Tilley hat, is a case of assorted wines. In that case there are some delicious summer whites, like Sancerre and German Riesling but multiple bottles of what I consider the best everyday reds are included. Which reds you ask? It is not just a beach wine, it works for camping, backyard grilling, pizza night, beef stew night, party night and dead of winter I want something satisfying and under 15 bucks. My 23 year old son considers it the perfect out-to-dinner with a date wine. For under $15 you get a wine with a bouquet that is lightly fruity

"The Southern Rhône is dominated by the Côtes du Rhône appellation encompassing some 100,000 acres."

24 • august-september 09

with hints of pepper, spice and earth.

The palate is medium bodied and dry, very light on tannins yet not a fruit bomb. There is some acidity but not mouth-puckering, and the alcohol is only about 12-14%. In an exceptional vintage like 2007 the wines are even age-worthy, but I have a hard time saving these beauties. They are so delicious in their youth that before you know it they’re gone. Even for a wine geek like me there is enough complexity to keep me coming back for more. Have you guessed the wine? I hope you chose Côtes du Rhône (CDR).

The Rhône Valley of France is split into two distinct regions. The Northern Rhône where the vines are grown predominately on hillsides with the sole red grape variety being Syrah and the Southern Rhône where the landscape is flatter but the soil, if you can call it that, is full of smooth large stones. The most important grape is Grenache of which a Côtes du Rhône must be at least 40%, supplemented

by Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. The Southern Rhône is dominated by the Côtes du Rhône appellation encompassing some 100,000 acres. There are other appellations in the Southern Rhône, the most famous being Châteauneuf du Pape (CNP).

These wines command a high price and are prized by collectors. There are actually

www.baltimoreeats.com

13 allowable red grape varieties in the Southern Rhône and one of the finest Châteauneufs, Château de Beaucastel, uses all 13 in their blend. Besides the abundance of sunshine there is a constant wind blowing, known as the Mistral. It blows warm during the day and cool at night greatly affecting vine and grape growth. The smooth round stones absorb the heat during the day and warm the vines at night combating the cool Mistral.

As I mentioned earlier the 2007 vintage was fantastic. If you are a collector you may want to load up on CNPs though they will be pricey. If you want an everyday great bang for the buck seek out one of the following wines.

Although 98% of Côtes du Rhône are red, I have included a couple of whites which are not too shabby.

As always, In Vino Veritas...

Stan Bliden, the second-generation owner of Midway Liquors on Pulaski Highway in Joppa, grew up in the wine business. winostan@aol.com

Les Trois Chemins CDR 2007 • $9.99 The bargain of the bunch. The style is a little lighter but still good. Great summer grilling red. 65% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre.

Perrin Reserve CDR 2007 • $10.99 From the Beaucastel people, as reliable as it gets, in a more earthy style–plenty of fruit to match. 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre and Cinsault.

Domaine du Bois de Saint- Jean CDR 2007 • $12.99 Small production, super quality, dense and dark, packed with flavor. All grapes picked by hand. 50% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre, 5% Cinsault.

Domaine de Givaudan CDR 2007 • $14.99 Another killer 2007, crushed berries and allspice full bodied and some tannins 75% Grenache, 25% Syrah.

Perrin Reserve CDR • $10.99 My wine of choice by the glass at Mezze peach and flowers, perfect with falafel.

Domaine Lafond Lirac 2007 • $16.99 Gorgeous refined and dry 50% Grenache Blanc, 30% Rousanne and 20% Viognier.

www.baltimoreeats.com

august-september 09 • 25

Southwestern Cuisine in a cool casual atmosphere

Sunday Brunch 11:30am-3:00pm

Southwestern Style Buffet $14 includes Mimosas & Champagne

Monday Happy Hour all night long!

Half-Priced Appetizers

Tuesday

Photo: “Seeds & Stems” by James Eichelman

Tapas & Sangria

$3.50 glass $10 Pitchers

Wednesday

Half-Priced Wine-Glass or Bottle

Thursday

$10 Taco Platters $3.50 select Margaritas

Friday Happy Hour 3:00-7:00pm

Saturday

Noon-6:00pm Margarita Matinee

$3.50 select Margaritas 

2318 Fleet Street 410-732-1961

www.geckosonline.com

Drink Local.

Buy Maryland Wine from Your Favorite Local Wine Shop and Farmers’ Markets Drawing from generations of experience and an ideal climate for ripening classic winegrapes, Maryland’s skilled winemakers provide wine drinkers a wonderful experience—world class wine made in Maryland. Maryland’s wineries offer delightful settings for a family adventure, a gathering with friends, a romantic interlude, or a moment of quiet solitude.

Visit a Maryland winery or one of our award-winning festivals & events – much more information is available online at www.MarylandWine.com.



Available for private parties, meetings, luncheons 26 • august-september 09

Wine is Growing in Maryland

www.baltimoreeats.com

AF TER DINNER

O

k , so here's the deal ...

I had every intention of sharing all of my poignant thoughts on two Hampden bars that I'd been eyeing in recent months but, truth is, I can't remember a damn thing about them.

Let me explain. It was a Sunday. I had just finished a dinner at, Cygnus Wine Cellars, in Carroll County. I had to review two bars for Baltimore Eats, and the damn article is due Monday.

Never-you-mind that I'm slaving away in every hole-in-the-wall in Hampden while my friend, Celeste Corsaro, is sipping Barolo in sunny Italy, "Facebooking" messages about the joy of regional Italian cooking and ruminating on where her next gastronomic epiphany would hail from. Some of us were just drinking in Hampden, hon.

So, spiral pad in hand, I make my way to Rocket to Venus and Frazier's (On the Avenue), which seem to be the new hipster mecca(s) in the neighborhood.

So, why can't I remember a damn thing about my time at either of these bars? Simple. That notebook I scratched all of my notes in whilst I was busy getting blotto? LOST IT. But here's what I remember... Rocket to Venus has a killer set-up. Lots of booths for people who actually eat.

28 • august-september 09

with

Scoote r H olt

The windows are all block-glass, which, I'm a HUGE fan of. It refracts all of that unnecessary daylight that gets in the way of hardcore day-drinking.

I sat down and grabbed a menu, taking in my surroundings. Two hipsters to my right were arguing. The "hipsterette" next to me was fondling her sketchpad while complaining about some dead-beat boyfriend, and red wine was her poison. This confirmed that I was officially in art-school hell, and I was liking it.

I ordered myself a pint of Yuengling, and perused the menu. The wine list wasn't too shabby; a few obscure Italian varietals for a great price, and some well-placed favorites, which I'd happily tell you about had I not lost my notebook. Take my word for it, they were quality.

Amusingly enough, there's a copy of an old Sun Paper article in the back of the menu that explains where the name Rocket to Venus came from.

Apparently, three local yuk-yuks, back in the '30's, decided they were going to build a rocket to Venus, because Mars was just too far away. They scavenged every piece of metal they could find and built this damn rocket right in their own garage. While the neighbors pointed and laughed, understandably

www.baltimoreeats.com

so, they rolled their creation out onto the pavement and lit the fuse, only to find themselves right here on Terra Firma, to no avail. Bottom line? Crappy attempt at an interplanetary expedition, GREAT name for a bar/restaurant.

So, here I am, sitting at this fabulous horseshoe of a bar, just staring at all the glittering bottles. Menu? Yeah, they've got one. And if I remember correctly, it ranges from cheese steaks to risotto to Szechuan noodles. Want me to be more specific? Tough. They've got EVERYTHING! Next, it was on to Frazier's on the Avenue. Now, this is a place for a serious drink. I blended with the locals by having a National Bohemian in a can. To local connoisseurs of this brew, it’s affectionately known as “Natty Boh.” From what I remember, the beer cooler was loaded with skater stickers and kooky, obscure band logos, things I know nothing of.

I vaguely remember a cheaply made poster board with Wednesday night drink specials, something about drafts being discounted from, maybe, 7 p.m. to whenever, but....who cares? One doesn’t come to a dive like Frazier’s to take advantage of drink specials. One comes to Frazier’s to completely erase the last twelve hours, and that’s just what I planned to do.

Let me set it up for you. When I walked in, some pound of flesh with a Mohawk was belting out every word to Abba’s “Knowing Me, Knowing You,” which, alone, is enough to make your

toes curl. When his buddy didn’t share his enthusiasm for that particular diddy, he proceeded to barrage him with a series of punches aimed at inflicting bodily harm. I then ordered a Jack Daniels “neat,” and slugged it down. Why? Simple. If you’re wearing a Lacoste pink polo, you better establish yourself as a “hardass” right off the bat, and a shot of Jack to the head establishes that quite quickly.

You might be asking about the surroundings. Let me help you on that.

The bar is a touch high, which I’m totally okay with. It’s actually chestlevel. Why is this okay? Easy. It makes it much easier to just dip your head right down into your drink. You don’t even have to pick it up. This is the only redeeming architectural feature in the bar, mind you. Two toy dinosaurs were doing unspeakable things on the back bar and, after consulting Wikipedia, I can safely tell you that this behavior was not the norm during the Triassic period. Is there a menu? Sure there is. They even have weekly dinner specials.

This place is genius. The meek and timid need not apply. Did the love of your life leave you for a younger honey? Your job let you go, claiming you were no longer "economically viable"? Step right up! Frazier's has a drink for YOU! Scooter Holt has been in the restaurant industry for over 15 years. He is currently at Corks Restaurant in Federal Hill.

www.baltimoreeats.com

august-september 09 • 29

al fresco

i n t r o du c i n g

d ining

dramatic views, outstanding service & fabulous fare!

at the inn and spa at the colonnade 4 west university parkway phone 443.449.6200

complimentary valet & self parking join club alizee at w w w . a l i z e e b a l t i m o r e . c o m for a complimentary glass of wine during your visit 13 Allegheny Ave . Towson . 410.296.0799

come taste a world of hand-crafted cocktails, fine wine & fantastic food

cafe juice bar catering www.ginmillcanton.com

our next raw dinners will be:

¤ open 11:30am-2:00am everyday -serving lunch and dinner-

Sat. September 26th Sat. October 24nd

saturday & sunday brunch 10:00am-2:00pm private function space available (up to 150 people)

Quick casual cafe offering raw,vegan,local,organic, free range& wholesome foods

www.ziascafe.com 30 • august-september 09

2300

¤

boston st. • canton md

21224

410.327.MILL

mention this ad to receive a

¤ complimentary classic cocktail ¤

www.baltimoreeats.com

“Casual but professional, refined but not stuffy, knowledgeable but not know-it-all.�

Located on the waterfront in historic Fells Point 1738 Thames St.

Baltimore MD 21231 410.558.0033 MissIrenes.com