Adventure GUIDE summer 2014 by Barbara Kondracki

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ON THE TELLURIDE VIA FERRATA

KROGER’S BENCH

KIM SCHAPPERT AND THE MOAB CYCLING EXPLOSION

The Black Swift Colony of Box Canyon Falls

Fatties Are Here to Stay

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Pancho, Jennifer and Zelle Winter aced their first-ever trip on the Telluride Via Ferrata. (Photo by David Crews)

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Organic cotton teams with merino wool – and a dash of Lycra – for the perfect 24/7 Ibex Synergy Summer Shorts. The form-fitting women’s briefs go from sleep to workout to under-a-dress like a second skin, thanks to a perfect form fit and flatlock seams (even a key pocket!); $69, at Telluride Bootdoctors.

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Leave the white gas at home; forget foraging for wood as night falls. With its thermoelectric generator-powered fan for improved combustion, the BioLite CampStove fires up on sticks, pinecones, pellets and other biomass, sending surplus energy to a USB port. Weighs 2 lbs., 1 oz.; supports up to 8 lbs. or 1 gallon liquid. Biolitestove.com; $129.95.

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Float the river in a blast-from-the-past inner tube that came into this world as the liner for a truck (or tractor) tire. It’s a lot more fun as a floating device; prices start at $21.99, at Telluride Timberline ACE Hardware.

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Black Diamond’s Easy Rider Via Ferrata Set holds climbers close on the iron way when the trail wipes out beneath them. With extendable, bungee-style lanyards, a harness energy absorption system to limit load impact and the carabiners’ internal locking mechanism with squeeze actuation is as secure as it gets; $109.95, Telluride Bootdoctors.

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GRIPPED

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On the Telluride Via Ferrata By Pancho Winter

GRABBING THE IRON RUNGS – Brett and Jennifer Schreckengost on the Main Event. (Photo by Brett Schreckengost)

ver the years, I heard the rumors about a Via Ferrata trail Chuck Kroger and his mountaineering buddies started constructing around 2006. More than a thousand Via Ferrate (“Iron Roads,” in Italian) exist in the world today, most of them in the Alps, and mostly dating back to World War I, when they were built in the Dolomite region of Italy to aid troops moving through the region. A Via Ferrata features a steel cable along a steep mountain trail, fixed to the rock, every 10-50 feet, depending on the topography. Climbers secure themselves via carabiners and climbing harnesses.

Additional climbing aids, including iron rungs (stemples), pegs, carved steps, ladders and even bridges, are often provided. ‘A SLIGHT PROBLEM WITH AUTHORITY’ Surrounding the Via Ferrata that Chuck was said to be building was talk of an undisclosed mountaineers’ iron forge, no permits, no permissions – a secret mission, befitting the wily Kroger, who died prematurely, at age 61, of cancer. An obituary described him as having “a slight problem with authority that led to a string of what

might be considered dubious accomplishments,” among them furthering the sport of “buildering” on the Stanford campus – his episodes including traversing a ledge on the Stanford chapel, traveling through vents between buildings and several ascents on the Golden Gate Bridge. A pillar of the Telluride community, Chuck was, in his later years, a member of the “Valley Floor Seven,” the group of cross-country skiers prosecuted for trespassing on the Valley Floor in the late 1990s when its owners, angry with the community for proposing to condemn the property, cut off access to skiers (he got off with probation). Chuck epitomized the witty, outlaw Telluride I >>> adventureGUIDE | summer2014

SAFETY FIRST – Clipping carabiners into the cable on the Main Event; a reminder to avoid raining rocks down on climbers below; clipped in. (Photos by Brett Schreckengost)

grew up idolizing. Chuck came to Telluride in 1979, already a mountaineering icon. While president of the Stanford University Alpine Club, he was the first person to climb four routes on Yosemite’s El Capitan in a single season; he did the first ascent of El Capitan’s Heart Route the following year. When he graduated, one professor remarked that Chuck had spent more time climbing rocks than studying them than any previous student. Chuck met Kathy Green in the Grand Canyon; they got married in Las Vegas and came to Telluride in 1979. Over the next not quite three decades in Telluride, Chuck’s climbing would take him all over the world, with trips to Alaska, the Alps, the Soviet Union and South America; his mountaineering feats were the stuff of legend. Like many of the town’s counterculture settlers, who added so much

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to Telluride’s iconoclastic character that remains evident to this day, Chuck the mountain climber and endurance runner was also a master builder and iron worker, whose firm, BONE Construction, built and renovated houses and office buildings throughout the Telluride region. I couldn’t wait to check out the iron rungs of his Via Ferrata, which sounded at once athletic and subversive. Telluride is a town where adventurers push the limits, and people like Chuck create myths and legends. Chuck’s premature death, from cancer, on Dec. 25, 2007, soon after the completion of the Telluride Via Ferrata, only added to its mystique. Perfectly outfitted, with thousands of signatures in its record book, his Via Ferrata is proof positive that even after death, Chuck continues to shape the lives of those who love Telluride’s Box Canyon.

A WORLD-CLASS GEOLOGIC FEATURE The Telluride Box Canyon is a world-class geologic feature. Its valley, formed by ancient glaciers, terminates on the eastern end in a cirque – a halfopen, steep-sided hollow at the head of a valley or mountainside, formed by glacial erosion. The cirque rises 2,400 ft. above the old Idarado Mine, with horizontal stratification layers that circumscribe the perimeter of the Box Canyon’s southern, eastern and northern walls of Mesozoic and Paleozoic sediments ranging from 60 to 300 million years old. A few years ago, at a party in Telluride’s East End, (where I live with my wife, Jennifer, and Zelle, our daughter), local climber and Telluride Mountain Club President Tor Anderson pointed out the layer of strata that naturally routes Tellu-

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ON THE WALL – Pancho, Jennifer and Zelle Winter traversing the Main Event. (Courtesy photo)

ride’s Via Ferrata on the prominent ledge traversing the base of Ajax Mountain, on the north side of Black Bear Pass, where Chuck and his friends installed the iron rungs and handholds, and hundreds of pounds of thin metal cable bolted into the rock. “What is the rating of that route?” asked 9-yearold Zelle, already comfortable with clipping in and scaling the climbing wall at Telluride High School with the Telluride Academy’s Horizon Club. At 5.7, it’s not tough climbing, Tor said. Zelle nodded. “Will my arms reach the rungs?” she asked. Tor said they would. From a distance, the hike across most of this ledge looked relatively easy; the cable, bolted in at intervals along the Via Ferrata’s epicenter, the 100 ft. wide Main Event, to pull travelers back up from any missteps along the rocky, narrow trail in-

creased my comfort level. All the necessary (and relatively simple) mountaineering equipment the Via Ferrata requires is readily available – for either rental or purchase – locally and on the internet. Black Diamond Equipment’s Iron Cruiser Via Ferrata set sells for under $100, and climbing helmets, also mandated for protection against tumbling scree (and worse) on the trail start at just over $100. While Zelle listened carefully to Tor’s description of the Via Ferrata, intrigued, what I mostly remember is that my palms were sweating, and wondering if I would freak out at the Main Event, where the comfortable geologic ledge the Via Ferrata is on disappears. The iron cable provides security, and Chuck’s iron rungs are placed for easy access. If one doesn’t have a pronounced fear of heights, the Main Event is accessible and straightforward.

ON THE VIA FERRATA We had to wait until July of the following year to tackle Chuck’s Via Ferrata. Zelle, now with a year of coaching under her belt at the Telluride Academy’s Horizon Climbing program, was climbing with Dave Chew, who was, serendipitously, a Via Ferrata expert. She was ready for the Via Ferrata, said Dave, and he was confident that Jennifer and I could handle it. With that encouragement, the Winter family was ready to visit the Via Ferrata. One early Saturday morning in July, we hiked away from Dave’s truck, parked precariously on the side of the Bridal Veil Road, picking our way along the ledge at the base of Ajax Mountain. We moved along the ledge for about 10 minutes before we arrived at the cable that would lead us to the Main Event. Dave reassured us that the climbing >>>

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AT KROGER’S BENCH – Jennifer and Zelle Winter take in the view of the town below. (Courtesy photo)

Kroger’s Bench Even giant trees, redwoods, & alerces, fall in the forest Even granite spires crack and crumble Even Chuck Giant trees on the ground are still giants Crags change shape, they’re still there Even in death Chuck Kroger is larger than life Trees, peaks, so much quiet strength Chuck, too, still a strong and skillful companion to us for those who follow Still a hero

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Goodbye dear friend, Father of this Via Ferrata You shared generously with us the art of engaged living Taught us the rewards of discovery, design and grit We humbly pay you back now by grabbing these irons and by hiking your clean miners’ trails – Joyfully and with wonder! – Including Excerpts from the Poem Even the Toughest by Lito Tejada Flores

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INCHING ALONG – Clipped in on the Main Event. (Courtesy photo)

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Here at Kroger’s Bench we took a break, drank from our water bottles and shared Zelle’s Gummy Bears.

and Jennifer maneuvered along the Iron Highway like a seasoned climber. As we approached the Main Event from the south, we came upon a bench, sitting upon a large slab of rock. We had arrived at Kroger’s Bench, where Lito Tejada Flores’ beautiful poem, set in bronze (with a picture of Chuck) sets the tone for this majestic perch, and signed the Telluride Mountain Club registry (marveling at the names of more than a thousand climbers who had preceded us). Here at Kroger’s bench we took a break, drank from our water bottles and shared Zelle’s Gummy Bears. As we drew closer to the Main Event, the trail disappeared around a corner; soon, our comfortable ledge had disappeared as well. Now we viewed the solid metal handholds, forged by Chuck and his intrepid team of mountain ironworkers. They did a great job on the Main Event: its ladder-like iron rungs are >>>

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would be fun, and not too technical, as he nonetheless double-checked our safety protocol. Our safety equipment included helmets, climbing harnesses and the duel self-retracting lanyards that would allow us to traverse past bolts without detaching from the cable. Although it was a bluebird morning, with no storms forecast, we were prepared for seasonal rains. Dave warned us about not kicking rocks off the trail, so as to not harm the climbers below, explaining that the greatest danger on the Via Ferrata comes from rocks falling down from above. As we drew near the Main Event, Dave gave us a refresher course on using the duel lanyards to pass through the cable bolts while keeping one carabiner attached to the cable at all times. As we progressed along the Via Ferrata, the sound of the carabiners opening and closing along the cable mesmerized me; Zelle struggled to manipulate them in her little hands,

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FINAL LEG – Brian Konoske heading west, with a view of Bridal Veils Falls behind him. (Photo by Brett Schreckengost)

solid and perfectly placed, and the iron cable accompanying these solid holds offers as much protection as you can hope to get, on the side of a cliff. Our family of three took a collective deep breath, and we committed to the Main Event in follow-the-leader fashion, with Jennifer leading Zelle and me across the exposed cliff on the iron handholds, encouraging one another forward. We all felt comfortable, and we spent time looking at the expanse below, focused on deep breathing to get a grip on the sense of exhilaration that comes from the sheer height of the cliff, and the remarkable views in all directions. And then, after five minutes of intense concentration, we climbed back onto the obvious, safe ledge

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that rests so comfortably on top of those Paleozoic sediments we had been traversing along. The last 20 minutes of the Via Ferrata, after the sheer steepness of the Main Event, are a walk in the park. Although we did use our Iron Walking Lanyards a few more times, when the path became more technical, after the exposure of the Main Event, the ledge seemed seemed easy, so we sometimes just skipped the dueling carabiners. (Dave reminded us to remain cautious, despite our growing confidence.) As Dave hitchhiked back up Bridal Veil Road to retrieve his truck, Zelle, Jen and I marveled at Chuck’s ability to give our family this special gift. This is the Telluride we love: unimaginable people doing unimaginable things – and then introducing these ad-

ventures to us mere mortals. Jen and I have been back three times since that first traverse of the Via Ferrata (hopefully this summer, Zelle, now 12, will find the time to fit it into her busy schedule). And now when we do the Via Ferrata, we go both ways – across and back. To hire a guide for the Telluride Via Ferrata, contact Ryder Walker Adventures, San Juan Mountain Guides, or Telluride Adventures.com (San Juan Outdoor School). Jagged Edge and Paragon/Bootdoctors sell the climbing harnesses and the specific Via Ferrata dynamic lanyard systems recommended by the Telluride Mountain Club.

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‘It is said that in the realm of mountain biking, Crested Butte provided the “spirit,” Marin County (California) provided the “tools,” and Moab provided the “place.” The triad was complete.’ – Mountain Bike Hall of Fame Website

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Kim Schappert

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and the

Moab Cycling Explosion By Eric Ming

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STYLIN’ – Kim Schappert on the Klondike Bluff trail system. She describes Klondike’s Baby Steps trail as the “quintessential” ride. (Photo by Eric Ming)

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ing,” Schappert continued. “We rode all the rides in Moab with no suspension: White Rim, Poison Spider. I mean, that was crazy.” From the experience of those rides, she immediately recognized the appeal of the first production mountain bike, called a Stump Jumper. It sold for $750 back in 1982, and “that was pretty pricy. In Crested Butte, we rented 10 of them off the back of a porch, and we made bank. People wanted to ride those bikes.” Almost three decades after I first rode Slickrock, I get to see the new trail systems through the developers’ eyes, and glimpse the groundwork that Schappert, a cofounder of Mountain Bike magazine (and also its art director), laid years ago. In June 1985, she turned the mountain biking world on its ear by putting a fullpage color photo of riders on the Slickrock trail in the premiere issue. It may have seemed experimental: it wasn’t Marin County, and it wasn’t Crested Butte (the two most well-known mountain-biking locales at the time). This was Moab, where mountain biking had yet to take off. Yet Schappert’s magazine cover ripped the lid off the sleeping giant of Colorado Plateau riding. After seeing that image, everyone wanted to put bike wheels on the Slickrock. Today, Moab continues to be the epicenter of new singletrack, and Schappert orchestrates that development as executive director of the MTA. She has worked closely with the Bureau of Land Management to establish a mutually agreed on 150 miles of trails, 90 of which have been constructed so far. The MTA works in concert with its sister trail-building organization, Trail Mix, run by Scott Escott and Sandy and Geoff Freethy. This remarkable trio, all of them over age 60 and volunteers, are designing, constructing and mapping a group of mountain-bike circuits. In the process, they are striking a balance between meeting the needs of the singletrack rider at every turn and preserving a natural resource. They are also creating a legacy and tradition of trails that will stand the test of time, for those still too young to climb onto a bike.

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t is a warm afternoon in March, and my riding companion Bill Liske and I have just gotten a very spirited education in the pothole ecology of the Colorado Plateau by Kim Schappert, executive director of the Moab Trails Alliance. I’ve been trying to decide if Schappert is more the sensitive naturalist or the steely former mountain bike racer who has put Moab on the international riding map at least twice in the past 29 years. We are five hours into a ride on the newly-created Intrepid trail at Dead Horse Point State Park in Utah, and it is becoming clear that she is both. Schappert can easily talk about the lifestyle of the Spotted Owl – how “adorable” the little creatures with the big eyes are – and about how careful trail builders were to route the surrounding singletrack so as not to bother the owls’ feeding habits. She has also gone mano a mano as the first and only woman racing mountain bikes in Colorado, back in the day when they didn’t have a category for women – something I suspect prepared her for the politics of the Grand County Council, where she has been a member and also the chair, and for garnering compromises from the intractable Utah Dept. of Transportation, and for standing her ground as executive director of the MTA and “not serving at the whim of local government.” Schappert’s biking credentials go back to 1978, when she rode her three-speed Stermie-Archer a total of 40 miles up and over the Elk Range, from Crested Butte to Aspen, to watch the first International Red Zinger bike race. As befits an ex-Outward Bound instructor, “We slept outside on the way over and back. Riding down the Maroon Lake road, the Italian cycling team jets by in their team car and they looked at us and they jumped out and said, ‘What are those bikes?’ They thought it was so cool to see these mountain bikes; they had never seen mountain bikes before.” The “stuff we did on those bikes was pretty amaz-

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PERFECTION – Clockwise from far left: Schappert and Ming on the Jurassic Trail at Klondike Bluff; Liske on the Arches Road; checking out Geoff Freethy’s meticulous signage; close-up of a marker on the Klondike Bluff trail system. Signage this detailed makes it difficult to get lost. (Photos by Bill Liske, far left and lower right; other photos by Eric Ming)

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Edward Abbey penned his classic Desert Solitaire in 1968, after two seasons as a park ranger in Arches National Monument. Some have compared Abbey’s tome to Thoreau’s Walden or Aldo Leopold’s Sand County Almanac, and many readers had their first exposure to the Colorado Plateau country of Southeast Utah because of it. Back when Abbey lived here, the road to Devil’s Garden was still dirt. He lived in a trailer with a gopher snake to help manage the rats. The once-quiet place where Abbey worked now has 41 miles of pavement for riding, according to the Road Bike Guide, which correctly proclaims the Arches road ride one of the best in the U.S., because of the “unparalleled” sandstone towers and arches that are the park’s namesake. Moab has graduated to a full-service cycling mecca, and the guide lists nine paved routes that take the rider to every outstanding corner of Southeast Utah for a total of 525 miles for roadies. That kind of quality mileage offers a solid week or ten days of riding, even if you never get on a mountain bike.

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The Road Cyclist in Moab

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about this, I start to get a stomach ache,” Schappert lamented, “because what are we going to do? Once industry’s wheels start moving, it’s almost too late. These leases have been in their hands for years. Now the price is right, and they want to start drilling.” It is Schappert and Escott’s belief that the truly sustainable resource for this region isn’t oil, but bike trails. “It’s how we are going to make our money. It’s going to be recreation-oriented, tourism-oriented,” she says. The extractive economic models of oil and gas will do little except add an additional 75 wells that will destroy not only the essential beauty of the region, Schappert and Escott are convinced, but will also ruin the air quality, due to outgassing that the industry creates, just as it has in the Uinta Basin to the north. As an article in the Salt Lake Tribune recently stated, “The often horrible air quality in eastern Utah’s Uinta Basin is caused by emissions from the area’s booming oil and gas industry.” It is unusual to have such a bad ozone problem without a “Salt Lakestyle collection of industry and commuter vehicles,” the piece went on, “but it is now clear that the oil and gas wells that account for 60 percent of the area’s economy also contribute 99 percent of the ozonecreating volatile organic compounds and 61 percent of the nitrogen oxides.” This is the scenario that hangs – metaphorically, at least for now – over the citizens of Grand County and southeastern Utah. Schappert’s parting comments to me are, “We are saving this gem, because that’s what it is. We are gonna save this place, and you guys [i.e., the oil industry] pack your bags. Hit the road.” And then she is back in the saddle and off down the trail – and for the sake of all the beauty and solace I find in this place, I hope she is right.

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Thanks to Escott and the Freethys’ efforts, there are now a trio of superb circuits in an area to the south of I-70 that was once no-man’s land, between Highway 191 and the Arches National Park boundary on the west. Klondike Bluff, with its Baby Steps Trail, which Schappert considers the “quintessential desert ride,” is furthest north. Klonzo, just to the south, off Willow Springs Road, is like a tight, secret garden of trails that requires four-wheel drive in order to access it if the wash is running. Next is the Moab Brands area: 30 miles of trails, where six high-profile racing events are held each year, including the National Interscholastic Cycling Association race, a high-school event with 450 racers and a total of 2,000 attendees; and Outer Bike, a consumer demo event that packs the parking lot for four days. There is a long waiting list of organizers who would love to put their races on this trail system, and Escott is clearly proud of the biking traffic “The Brands” brings in. “This is near to our heart,” he says, “and the economic driver for the community.” Two other areas developed by Trail Mix are up on Big Flat, on State Route 313: Magnificent 7, and Dead Horse Point State Park, where we are riding, with excellent beginner trails. We are up around 6000 ft. in elevation and have the absolute best views of the greater Canyonlands area, including the three ranges that encircle us and give that “center of the earth” feel – the La Sals, the Abajos and the Henry Mountains. Over a couple of days of riding with Schappert, a visit to Escott’s new trail-building site at Klondike Bluffs and a solo visit in February, I’ve sampled most of the trails to get the flavor of each. Mag 7 had me rodding along on 29-inch wheels, pitching gloriously off the bike (not the trail’s fault, but mine), and Dead Horse Point kept me in the saddle for five hours (we rode back to the trucks in the most soothing evening light). Klondike begins in a warm basin on some track that resembles an Apollo moonscape. Klonzo is a spot for solitude seekers, and Moab Brands felt like the epicenter of all the trail energy that Schappert and the crews of builders have been harnessing for years. Ahab, 15 minutes west of town, is the epic ride – too difficult for me, but I found it to be an outstanding trail run. To be perfectly honest, after a couple decades of climbing, riding, skiing and rock art hunting, I had sort of dropped Moab from my list of places I had to return to. Then, after spending time with Schappert and Escott, I realized I was wrong. You don’t let places like this go. They are too big – there is too much in what they once meant, and will mean again. Despite all the positive work that is going on through the Moab Trails Alliance and the Trail Mix group, there is a dark cloud on everyone’s horizon. When we pull up onto an area known as Big Flat, drilling rigs, along with other signs of oil and gas-development, appear in what is one of the truly magnificent visual corridors on this continent. The rigs stand out in glaring industrial opposition to what the area means to Schappert and Escott. “Whenever I think

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In addition to the Arches ride, there are two particularly notable routes here, and you can leave straight from town on either of them. The first is the 62-mile La Sal Mountain Loop, the route for the Moab Gran Fondo, which translates from the Italian as “Big Ride” and has a long European tradition that involves the experience of cycling a challenging route with friends and comrades. In Moab, the loop starts around 4000 ft. and climbs to 8200 ft. in the La Sal Mountains, crossing the high ground just beneath the crest before descending into the Castle Valley and back to town. This ride is absolutely unique for the spectrum of terrain and ecological zones you will pass through in a few short hours. Don’t miss it. The other ride that has ripened to perfection came about because the old roadbed along Hwy. 191 was paved for non-motorized use in 2010 (due to Schappert’s work), and connects Moab to the junction of Hwy. 313. The ride then climbs up onto Big Flat and out to either Canyonlands National Park and the aptly named Island in the Sky, or to Dead Horse Point State Park, both with unforgettable views of the subterranean sandstone country from the rim. Schappert tells me, “It’s the world for road cyclists.” Today Dead Horse Point even sports a coffee hut for a mid-ride break at the Visitor Center. Accommodations/Camping/Services: If you aren’t already a seasoned traveler to “The Southeast,” then a stop at the Moab Information Center at the corner of Center St. and Main will sup-

ply you with a free BLM-Moab Field Office newspaper that maps all the campgrounds as well as some hiking and biking options, and gives guidelines for dispersed camping. The other amenities the MIC has to offer are Latitude 40 maps (which cover the greater Moab/Canyonlands/Arches area), clean restrooms, and a staff that can answer any question. There are numerous commercial campgrounds in Moab; with so many cycling options nearby, it is quite appealing to spend a few evenings in town, where you can get a shower after a day of riding, visit a bike shop or a bookstore (or Moab’s excellent library), and then walk to dinner. For a list of local campgrounds and a map of their locations, go to http://tinyurl.com/ms9o46v. The excellent discovermoab.com website (http://tinyurl.com/kqzg88s) also lists every road and trail ride. The other essential component you’ll need are the colorful, detailed maps created by the Trail Mix group, available at bike shops for $2 each. They can be viewed on the Discover Moab website; it is important to purchase them not only to have on the trails, but because, as Escott said, “The map program is now our largest source of money. It gives us more money than the county does – a $2 map.” The maps, and the remarkably detailed signage at every trail junction, reflect the painstaking work of Geoff Freethy, now retired from the U.S. Geological Survey. ”One of the things I am proudest of is protecting the resource: the signage that Geoff Freethy has done – the way we design and line our routes,” he added. “It’s about keeping people on the trail.”

NOW AND THEN – At left, shooting the gap between boulders on Jurassic. Above, Schappert and her magazine cover photo that introduced the world to the Slickrock Trail. (Photos, left, by Bill Liske, and above, Eric Ming)

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‘The Coolest Bird’ The Black Swift Colony of Box Canyon Falls

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BY SAMANTHA TISDEL WRIGHT

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NESTING – An adult black swift peers out from its mud-and-moss nest inside Box Canyon, undisturbed by the steady stream of tourists passing by. (Photo by Brett Schreckengost)

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Until two years ago, the location of the Black Swifts’ wintering grounds remained one of the greatest mysteries in the world of ornithology. They were the only species breeding in the U.S. and Canada for which no migratory history had been documented. As luck would have it, a bird from Box Canyon helped crack that mystery wide open. One summer night in 2009, a trio of Black Swift researchers (Jason Beason, of the Rocky Mountain Bird Observatory; Kim Potter, a Rifle-based wildlife technician for the U.S. Forest Service; and Carolyn Gunn, a Dolores veterinarian and fish pathologist for Colorado Parks and Wildlife) set up a mist net, deep inside Box Canyon. A healthy 2-year-old male Black Swift flew into this net. The researchers carefully took him in hand and fitted him with a tiny custom-made Teflon backpack that contained an even tinier light-level geolocator before releasing him to go about his business. Three other swifts, caught at the Fulton Resurgence Cave (a nesting site near Rifle, Colo.), were similarly outfitted, with the objective of gathering information about the migratory path, timing and winter destination of the species. The geolocator is a simple device consisting of a light sensor, digital clock and memory chip that records ambient light levels at fixed intervals for extrapolating the birds’ latitude and longitude. Geolocators are highly effective instruments for tracking long-distance migratory species; unlike satellite tracking devices, they are also small enough to place on swifts. The only catch is, they have to be retrieved >>>

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FROM THE BOX CANYON TO BRAZIL (AND BACK)

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extra-long scythe-like wings that allow them to stay airborne for hours, days and perhaps even months at a time, while performing aerial maneuvers in search of the flying insects that are their prey. The U.S Forest Service considers Black Swifts to be a “sensitive species” (one step below threatened), because they are so fussy about their habitat and because they reproduce quite slowly – just one hatchling annually per breeding pair. The chick starts out looking like a little pink worm, but quickly becomes almost unbearably cute – all gray fluff and wide, winsome eyes – sitting solemnly in its cliffside nest, as it patiently waits for its parents to return from the day’s hunt with milky boluses of regurgitated flying insects to feed it throughout the night (Black Swifts are awesome parents). As the chick grows up, it starts hanging out on the rim of the nest to exercise its wings, flapping them as fast as a hummingbird. Those wings need to be in shape by the time it fledges (usually in September), because its maiden voyage takes it straight into an epic 4,000-mile migration.

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By human standards, Box Canyon Falls is hardly welcoming. It’s a damp, dark, serpentine place that is alive with the roar of waterfall. Here, over eons, the turbulent meltwater of Canyon Creek has sliced a narrow maw through fault-weakened limestone to form one of Ouray’s most awe-inspiring natural wonders – a thundering grotto where every minute thousands of gallons of water rush through crooked crags of pre-Cambrian rock, cannonballing 280 feet to the canyon’s floor. Except for a suspended metal walkway that leads like a gangplank inside the Box Canyon (the better for tourists to observe the spectacle), there’s precious little horizontal real estate in here, and none that is quiet or dry. But for Colorado’s largest known colony of Northern Black Swifts – a far-flung species occurring sparingly throughout western North America that breeds near waterfalls, on sea cliffs and in moist caves – this place is a made-to-order home. And for birders, there is no better place on the planet to observe what one prominent ornithologist has dubbed “the coolest bird.” Generally speaking, the Northern Black Swift (Cypseloides niger borealis) is notoriously difficult to observe because of its high-flying habits and its penchant for inaccessible nest sites. But where rappelling ropes or extension ladders would otherwise be necessary, the suspended walkway inside Box Canyon provides the perfect perch for the thousands of birders who flock here, hoping to catch a glimpse of this elusive species. Since the colony was discovered by researchers in 1950, a total of 26 nests have been identified in Box Canyon (although not all are occupied every year), prompting the Audubon Society to declare it an Important Bird Area. The birds’ soup bowl-sized mud-and-moss nests are tucked into niches and crevices throughout the canyon – some at eye level along the walkway, others perched high above the creek on the opposite wall, or even right beside the powerful waterfall. They look like lumps of moss growing on the rock. Telltale streaks of urates (a concentrated urine full of white ammonia crystals) on the cliffs below the nests often give away their location. As for the birds that build the nests, if you didn’t know they were here, it would be easy to miss them. They are called “swifts” for a reason; the adults whiz through canyon shadows so swiftly (at speeds of up to 100 mph) that to the untrained human eye, their movements are nothing but a specter. The birds’ plumage blends in perfectly with the canyon walls. The adults have an overall dark, sooty color, with just a frosting of white across the face, and are seven inches long – smaller than a robin, but bigger than a chickadee or swallow. They weigh less than two ounces, with torpedo-shaped bodies and

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COLORADO BREEDING SITE

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5/23/2010

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5/17/2010

BLACK SWIFT 411

5/10/2010

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Sue Hirshman’s research shows that, on average, Northern Black Swifts arrive at Box Canyon in mid-June and lay their eggs starting June 28. By late July, all of the eggs that are going to hatch have hatched. The average incubation period is 26 days and the nestling phase is 48 days. Fledging typically occurs in mid-September. The Audubon Society provides the following data on Northern Black Swifts:

CORE WINTERING AREA

BEHAVIOR: Spends most waking hours in continuous flight, like other swifts, catching insects in midair. Travels singly or in small flocks. STATUS: Localized and uncommon throughout its range. Total population may not exceed about 20,000 birds. Scattered distribution makes it hard to census.

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THREATS: Because birds often nest behind waterfalls, destruction of mountain forests or the effects of a drying climate could make some sites unsuitable by reducing stream flows. Deforestation in South America also could degrade their wintering habitat. OUTLOOK: With its wide range, the species is in no immediate danger, but its long-term survival could be jeopardized by climate change and habitat loss.

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(Source: “Out of the Shadows: Black Swifts, North America’s Most Mysterious Birds”, Audubon Magazine, September-October 2012)

MAP courtesy Rocky Mountain Bird Observatory, U.S. Forest Service and Carolyn Gunn

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pens. At this point, it would probably require a number of death threats to drive Sue away from her post.” Indeed, seven years after Levad’s book was published, Hirshman persists with her research, and frets over “her” birds, whose numbers have declined in recent years. Last summer was her lowest fledgling count ever, with only five successful nests, well down from the average of 10. “It was really not a good year,” she said, the worry straining her voice. “I am hoping for a better breeding summer this year.” ‘THE COOLEST BIRD’ Hirshman is certain that climate change is the culprit. The It was Rich Levad, the late coorfederal 2010 State of the Birds dinator of the Rocky Mountain report, coauthored by Audubon Bird Observatory, who coined and other conservation groups, the term “The Coolest Bird,” backs her up, rating the species and then used it as the title for as the western forest bird most a book on the species which vulnerable to climate change. was published posthumously in “Here we have a bird very reli2010: The Coolest Bird: A Natuant on cool, moist habitat,” exral History of the Black Swift and Those Who Have Pursued It (now plained Daniel Casey, an Ameriavailable as a digital download can Bird Conservancy biologist from Amazon.com). who researches Black Swifts, in “This dark, mysterious bird ‘BLACK SWIFT LADY’ – Sue Hirshman on a 2012 Audubon Magazine arhas captivated the interest of a the job at the Box Canyon. (Photo by ticle. “It’s the canary in the coal remarkable cast of investigators, Brett Schreckengost) mine where climate change is and the quest of it is marked by concerned. We could see it blink spurts of discovery, decades of inactivity and a few out as the effects worsen.” (“Out of the Shadows: Black false leads,” Levad wrote in his introduction. Among Swifts, North America’s Most Mysterious Birds”, Auduthis “remarkable cast of investigators,” Levad devot- bon Magazine, September-October 2012) ed a whole chapter of his book to Hirshman and her The article’s author, Alisa Opar, writes that “preresearch on the Box Canyon Black Swift colony. dicted loss of glaciers and decreased precipitation “Sue’s relationship with the Box Canyon Black Swift could shrink suitable breeding grounds. Climate colony parallels that of a mother bird to her nest; change might also disturb the flying ant hatch, a mathe more time a bird has invested in incubating and jor part of the bird’s summer diet. Add that the spebrooding, the more tenaciously she sets,” Levad wrote. cies rears a single, slow-growing nestling and it’s easy “Abandonment of a healthy clutch hardly ever hap- to see why this elusive bird is facing serious trouble.” pieces into place around that one giant missing piece – where did her Black Swifts go after they fledged? The recovered geolocators spilled the beans. Their data, revealed to the public in 2012, told the tale of a remarkable migration in which the birds flew well over 200 miles per day over a period of three weeks to wintering grounds in the Amazon Basin of northwest Brazil (about 4,300 miles to the south) ... and back again to Colorado every spring.

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to reveal their data. Luckily, Black Swifts are known for nesting site fidelity, year after year. So researchers kept their fingers crossed that the birds they’d captured and outfitted would have a successful migration, and then wing their way back home to Colorado the following summer, bearing telltale information about where they’d spent the winter. It was a long shot that succeeded, with three of the four backpack-toting Black Swifts returning the following summer. Among them was the bird from Box Canyon. Sue Hirshman was the first to spot him. An amateur birder and retired nurse known as the “Black Swift Lady of Box Canyon,” Hirshman got hooked in 1996, when she and her husband started summering in Ouray. She now logs upwards of 1,000 hours per season observing nesting Black Swifts at the Box Canyon colony. Each year, starting in May and sometimes going all the way into October, the Indiana native meticulously documents the swifts’ arrival, nest building, egg laying, incubation, hatching, rearing, and fledging patterns. In the process she has accumulated the most extensive body of observations for this species in existence, contributing reams of important statistical data about Black Swifts’ nesting phenology, and publishing two highly regarded articles in the Journal of Colorado Field Ornithologists (April 1998) and Wilson’s Journal of Ornithology (December 2007). In 2009, Hirshman added a new element to her research, helping Beason, Potter and Gunn in their mission to capture and outfit a Black Swift from the Box Canyon with a geolocator. Was she excited when “her” little bird came back home the following spring, with its backpack intact? “Omigosh, yes,” she exclaimed, still thrilled at the memory. It was as if she had been working on a complicated puzzle for 14 years, carefully fitting thousands of tiny

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CLOSE-UP – Black Swifts typically lay one egg per breeding season. In Box Canyon, the eggs are usually laid in late June, and hatch about A month later. (Photo by Sue Hirshman) At right, researchers outfitted a Black Swift from Box Canyon with a tiny geolocator to help solve the mystery of the species’ winter migration. The bird was recaptured the following season, bearing hard evidence that he had wintered in Brazil’s Amazon rainforest. (Photo by Todd Patrick; toddpatrickphoto.com)

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VISITORS – Tourists (at left) flock to Box Canyon Falls by the thousands each summer. While the main attraction for many of them is the thundering waterfall, the canyon is also a mecca for birders hoping to catch a glimpse of the elusive Black Swift. (Photo by Brett Shreckengost) Many nests, like the one at right, are plainly visible from the suspended metal walkway inside the canyon. The human presence in the canyon doesn’t seem to bother the birds. (Photo by Sue Hirshman)

Scientists are also concerned that deforestation in South America could degrade the species’ wintering habitat. Opar notes one computer model predicting that by 2050, almost a third of the forest cover in the region of Brazil where the Black Swifts winter could vanish.

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FOR THE LOVE OF IT But for now, at least, the Black Swifts keep returning to Box Canyon, and Hirshman keeps showing up to observe them. Through her binoculars, she has borne witness to things that perhaps no other birder has ever seen. For example, “I’ve actually seen two Black Swifts lay their egg,” she said. “I’ve got the date, the time and everything.” She also thinks she has seen Black Swifts mate. “But I can’t prove it,” she hurriedly adds. “Nobody has enough scientific knowledge to determine or prove if they mate in the air or on the ground. They were either mating or fighting for a nest.” Each new season brings its own unique tales of heartbreak, intrigue and survival. Last summer, Hirshman documented a leucistic chick with a genetic mutation that prevented melanin and other pigments from being deposited normally in its feathers. “It turned out to be a beautiful chick,” she said. “It was very visible, especially when the chick got larger. It was completely different looking, with a white crown, and some white on the wing. I’m really hoping it will come back.” She also kept watch over a mother swift whose nest had deteriorated over the winter. “She tried to build a new one, but she didn’t build it good enough,” Hirshman recalled. “She did lay an egg,

but it rolled out. She roosted there. She tried sitting on that nest even after she lost the egg. I was sad for her.” Over the years, Hirshman has observed that once in a rare while, when a breeding pair loses their first egg, they are able to produce a second one later in the season. When this happens, it is a race against time for the late chick to fledge before cold weather returns in the fall. The latest chick she has ever documented hatched from a second egg in 2011. “It stayed until October 9,” she marveled. “It was 58 days old. That broke a record. It’s not good when they stay that long. The nights get cold. There is a lack of insects.” Hirshman haunted the canyon until the late chick fledged. “I was in here on Oct. 9 in the morning. It was bitter, bitter cold,” she recalled. “It was so amazing to see what I saw. The adult was trying to cover the big chick, which was larger than the parent. It was so tender. When I came back in the afternoon they were both gone. I don’t know if the chick survived.” Over the years, Hirshman has fended off a multitude of “emptynest” jokes from her friends, and recurring requests from her husband to “retire” from her research. So far she has resisted. “It’s my passion,” she said. “I wouldn’t know how to act if I didn’t come over here and take notes and study the birds. I hope I can study this bird until I’m 90. Or even older. As long as I am able to walk, I am going to go over there. I’m obsessed with them. There is no doubt about it.” Black Swifts just seem to have that effect on people.

son, you will see the adults building their nests, incubating their eggs or nursing newly hatched naked chicks. Later in the summer, it is tougher to glimpse the adults, but you can frequently spot the chicks, sitting in their nests, peering out at the world, or perhaps exercising their wings. A sign along the suspended walkway points to an area where many of the nests are clustered across the canyon. Be sure to bring binoculars!

TIPS FOR OBSERVATION

For more information call 970/325-7080, 970/3257065, or visit the following websites: www.cityofouray. com and www.ouraycolorado.com/ouray-activities/BoxCanon-Falls-Park.php.

‘I hope I can study this bird until I’m 90. As long as I am able to walk, I am going to go over there.’

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The Box Canyon Black Swift colony is active from mid-June through mid-September. Early in the sea-

IF YOU GO Box Canyon Falls Park is maintained by the City of Ouray and is open to visitors from 8 a.m.-8 p.m., mid-May through mid-October. Admission is $4 for adults, $2 for children 5 to 12 years old, and $3 for those 62-75. Visitors over the age of 75 and children 4 or younger are admitted at no charge. Amenities include sheltered picnic areas, gazebos, restrooms, a visitor’s center with interpretive exhibits, and a trail system that includes a short but steep hike to a “high bridge” affording dizzying views of the canyon below. Whether walking or driving, it is easy to get to Box Canyon Falls Park from downtown Ouray. On foot, veer left at the bottom of Third Avenue near the Box Canyon Lodge and follow the road up the hill for about one-fourth mile to the park entrance. The new Perimeter Trail that circumnavigates Ouray also connects to the park. To drive there, follow Hwy. 550 south of Ouray, taking an immediate right onto CR 361 after the first hairpin turn. Follow the signs to the right, going over the Uncompahgre Gorge to the drive-in entrance. Dogs are not allowed within the park.

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What I am going to say right now might come as a shock: I live in Telluride and I have never liked mountain biking. In fact, I have always kind of hated it. There. I admit it. But before you roll your eyes and think me bonkers, let me clarify: I love mountain biking, in theory. If you think of it as a recipe, each ingredient in it is perfect: fresh air, access to remote areas, speed, a challenge, a workout, super-awesome gear, shared adventures with friends, post-ride beers and a major sense of accomplishment. Sadly, however much I can attest to seeking out experiences with all these ingredients, it is the finished product that I have trouble with. When I get on a mountain bike and lay those tires on single track, here’s what usually happens: the bike feels weird, I don’t feel I can ride over obstacles so I try to go around them and can’t, and I am either off the bike and walking at least 80 percent of the trail, or, worse, off the bike and on top of rocks, in

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READY TO RIDE – Steven Hauck and Matt Weldon at Buzzard Gulch.

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BEFORE THE HAUCK EXPERIENCE – Allison Perry (far left), on relatively mellow terrain at Phil’s World; and Matt Weldon (top two photos) in Moab.

water, or trying to get my wind back after flipping over the handle bars and landing with my elbow squarely planted in my ribcage. What I imagine to be the elements of mountain biking simply is not the reality, and mountain biking has always been scary, tedious, painful and downright maddening. Compounding the issue is my background as a road biker. The road is smooth, fast and predictable. I do not regularly fall off my road bike. Mountain biking is the opposite. On single track, I have no idea what the trail will have in store for me around the next bend. It seems my mind refuses to trust a mountain bike to conquer whatever is in store, and thus I have never been able to achieve even a minimal amount of confidence. Confidence on a mountain bike is essential. Like a horse, the bike somehow instinctively responds to confident movements and actions: it is more stable when you lay off the brakes and pick up speed. In the classic Catch-22, however, the tepid and frightened newbie wants to hit the brakes, and doesn’t want to pick up speed. After a disastrous last showing at Moab, I was almost ready to accept that I

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would never be a mountain biker. For some reason, however, as winter faded away this year, I realized I wasn’t entirely ready to give up. Maybe it’s the pesky summer festival traffic in Telluride that makes me want to stay away from the road and my road bike. Maybe it’s the fact that mountain biking is what all my friends do in the summer. This winter, I had the pleasure of writing a story about fat bikes and riding bikes in the snow. And while fatties are great for snow riding, I have also begun to notice that more and more people are riding them on trails. While watching a horde of fatties return from Moab covered in mud and dirt, it occurred to me that perhaps a fatty was the antidote to my lack of trust in mountain bikes. If my problems stem from a lack of confidence, maybe having huge bloated tires that look like they were stolen off a Geo Metro would give me the self-assurance to aim at those technical spots and keep pedaling, rather than squealing on the brakes and jumping off. And so, when I got the opportunity to go for a fat-bike ride on single track and try out Hauck Bikes, a new company in Mon-

trose that makes only fatties, I figured that I would give mountain biking one more shot, only this time on a very non-traditional type of mountain bike. Riding Buzzard Gulch As we approached the Buzzard Gulch trailhead in Montrose on an overcast day, I looked nervously up through the sunroof at the huge tire strapped to my bike rack. Today would be my first time on a bike in months, and we were going to be trying fatties out on some single track down the road from Telluride, my home base. Part of our mission was not only to ride fat bikes on single track, but also, specifically, to sample Hauck Bikes, a one hundred percent locally owned and manufactured brand from right in the heart of downtown Montrose. We were riding with the bike’s owner and creator, Steven Hauck, one of his riding partners, and Matt Weldon, my boyfriend. Even before we saddled up, I was intimidated by the prospect of riding single track with these guys. Hauck’s assurances that the Buzzard Gulch trail is

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fects. It helped tremendously. I started pedaling faster, testing myself by picking lines through rock piles and committing to them rather than looking to go around. I trusted my fat tires to get the job done, and they did. I was still nervous, but my nerves were no longer calling the shots. As we continued gaining elevation, something changed in me. I couldn’t pinpoint the exact moment but all of a sudden I was...mountain biking! We climbed the single track to the lookout point atop Buzzard Gulch, where we stopped for water, views and photos. The landscape in Montrose is more desert than not, and for once I was able to appreciate the setting from on a bike, instead of being consumed by thoughts about all the features in the landscape that could hurt me. Although I was painfully aware of the long descent ahead of us, I was soothed, somewhat, by the fact that “pretty mellow” was a very accurate description of the Buzzard Gulch trail. In fact, everything about the ride had been pretty mellow, from the terrain that was just challenging enough to the company. I realized that as much as I was out to try to have fun, the guys I was riding with

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dence, or a bad omen for the day. As we wound along the single track towards the uphill portion of our ride, I prepared for the inevitable: at some point, the trail would transform into a violent jumble of jagged rocks and roots, or an expanse of flat, slick rock at a sharp angle that requires some kind of side-hill riding that defies the laws of physics. At that point, I would either get off my bike or fall off. I’d have to walk forever, and the guys I’m with would spend most of their ride exasperated, waiting for me to catch up. I would struggle not to cry, while intermittently walking, pedaling for 10 or 20 feet at a time, and muttering under my breath, “pretty mellow, huh?” Instead, something else happened. As I cruised through sagebrush, dirt, sand and low-hanging trees, when rocks jumped out at me sporadically, before I could even think to bail my fat tire gulped them up. Each rock we swallowed provided a little squirt of confidence, and every sandy section I floated through with ease made me feel more relaxed. Soon I was vanquishing technical terrain without even thinking, using my bike as a bulldozer. I even made bulldozer sound ef-

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“pretty mellow” did little to assuage my fears. Of course it is mellow to these guys; they can probably jump their bikes off of cliffs. Staring up at the cumbersome rig tethered to my roof, I savored the last few moments of being in the safe cocoon of my car and repeated the day’s mantra: “That tire can roll over anything. That tire can roll over anything.” Although I have visited Hauck’s warehouse and seen his bikes, I was struck again, when we reached the trailhead, by how flat-out awesome they look. We had three Hauck bikes with us, and each frame was a bright color – green (with a lefty fork), blue and yellow. The frame colors coordinated with the rims and handlebars, and once we started riding, transformed into a parade of happy, vibrant Skittles gliding down the trail. I played sweeper to the Hauck candy brigade, happy to hang back and watch the experts do their thing. As we progressed farther from the trailhead, I looked up and saw a huge shadow moving over us. It was a buzzard. As I pedaled harder to catch up to the guys, I couldn’t help wonder if seeing a buzzard was just a coinci-

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CHANGING SCENERY – Weldon, taking up the rear (lower left), with Hauck and Jerry Hauptmann, on Hauck’s bright-framed fatties. Hauck and Hauptmann (above), on Buzzard Gulch.

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were happy to be riding and hanging out, and I never felt rushed or burdensome. Along with the confidence I was building to ride singletrack, I was gaining confidence to take my time, and ride by myself. As we sipped water and took pictures, I prepared for the difficulty of the descent; as the minutes ticked by, this chore seemed insurmountable. More than climbing, the fragile business of downhill riding has always awakened the granny in me, shaking her head, wagging her fingers, warning of broken legs and shattered collarbones. The savage, swollen purple cacti I was able to ignore on the way up were already hindering me from drumming up any zeal for the downhill portion of our ride; I was having trouble thinking of the downhill as a reward for this climb. It was the only way to get back to the car, however, and I resolved to continue to trust my fat bike and go as slow as I needed to. We mounted up, my knuckles white from gripping the bars, chanting to myself once again, “That tire will roll over anything. That tire will roll over anything.” There is no more appropriate way to put this: the downhill was awesome. Although fat bikes generally

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do not have suspension, the fat tires act as suspension, and I was able to absorb every rock and divot I rolled over. The traction offered by the huge tires is also unparalleled. Since my ride in Montrose, I have tried riding Moab’s slick rock on a fat bike and the traction proved to be a game-changer for me. Those treacherous side-hill portions were a piece of cake, once I discovered just how well fat tires grip any surface. All in all, my Buzzard Gulch ride allowed me to learn what is possible on a fat bike and to accept that, whatever my issues with mountain biking in the past, fatties make it possible for me to get into the proper headspace to have fun mountain biking and to enjoy its challenges rather than fearing them. Because fat bikes, are so versatile, they take a lot of the labor out of more difficult terrain, such as sand, gravel, rock and snow. They are truly the wave of the future and here to stay – and you would be remiss not to check one out. Steve Hauck summed it up best. As we sat, tired and blissed out, sipping on lukewarm IPA after our ride, he said: “Fatties are not just a fad.” Amen.

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STEVEN

HAUCK

CREATOR OF HAUCK FATTIES

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What are some of your favorite trails out here to ride fatties on? Spring Creek Canyon is a good one. It goes up to the top of the Uncompahgre. You can ride up and be in snow, and in two hours be back down where it’s 75 degrees and sunny. Buzzard Gulch is also a great one. It’s very mellow, and takes you to the top of a lookout with amazing views.

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How would one go about getting a Hauck Bike? Right now we do business through Cascade Bicycles on Main Street in Montrose. We have models displayed there and people who are interested can customize their bike by choosing a color and picking a model. Cascade then communicates this to us, and we build the bike. The customer doesn’t ever have to go to Hauck directly. It’s a very smooth, easy process.

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A lot of people insist that fatties are only good for snow and maybe sand, and that they are not as quick and agile on technical single track. What would you say to that? I have a buddy who rides a carbon Trance [a full- suspension Giant mountain bike with 26” wheels]. I’m able to keep up with him on my fat bike. He always has to put his foot down going around tight turns and switchbacks, but my bike just eats them up. With a tire pressure of just 7-9 psi, the bike is just soft enough that it will absorb shock and you don’t need a suspension.

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Why fatties? What’s the fatty advantage? Is fatter really better? For one thing, the traction is huge. It’s apparent when you ride that you get a whole lot more traction on slick or difficult surfaces. Fatties are especially effective on sand and dirt, and in arid conditions, like you see here and out in Moab. They are also better on gravel and adobe clay. Dirt biking is huge here, and dirt bikes do really well on the trails in this area. Fatties draw from dirt bikes as well as mountain bikes. They take the traction of dirt bikes and maintain the speed and agility of traditional mountain bikes. They’re the best of both worlds.

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Do you only make fatties? We only make fatties right now, but we’re going to release a 650b hard tail trail bike soon called the Bravo. We are aiming to go big! We are also hoping to do a cross bike and a road bike, and eventually a full-suspension.

What are the major differences between Hauck fat bikes and other company’s fat bikes? Everything is done in-house here. We do all the fabrication, welding and machining. My father and brother are master machinists and engineers, so we are able to do everything from design to layout. The only things we don’t make are hubs and wheels. We use Surly wheels, the best in the industry. We do assemble the wheels. We’re currently trying to develop a way to make our own hubs, based on Ross Reels designs. Hubs and reels are very similar and Ross Reels [Hauck’s father’s company] has been around for a long time, so we should be making hubs soon, too. We have a 3D printer and are able to make 3D printouts of our parts and then make them in metal. We use a very light aluminum, which keeps the bikes stiff and strong. Hauck fatties are more geared towards trail riding, single track and going fast, or racing. Other fat bikes are more for snow and commuting, and built to have more racks and accessories. The geometry on our bikes makes them lighter and faster than they look, so in that way they’re more specialized than other fat bikes. Lastly, our bikes have a unique look that buyers can further customize by choosing any color frame and rims they want. They really stand out.

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How did you start? What was your inspiration? I’ve always loved biking, from when I lived in Eugene Ore., to when I moved here two years ago. My father has been designing fishing reels [Ross Reels] for years; I noticed a similarity between bike hubs and my dad’s reels. The design stages of building a hub are very similar. I also have a mentor, Todd Garner, who builds cross bikes and road bikes in Eugene. Stoemper is the brand. I was very inspired by Todd and what he was doing.

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How long have you been making bikes? We came up with a prototype for a bike this past January and have been making them since. Hauck Engineering has been around since the late 70s, and I’ve always been passionate about bikes and biking, so it was a logical connection.

What do you ride? I’m on a Foxtrot now [pictured, yellow]. I made three prototypes before this one. I love it.

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Discovering a Lost World in Dominguez Canyon by Gus Jarvis raft, float about a mile downstream and set them free, back to their air-conditioned vehicles. For me, it was more of a hot summer job instead of an adventure. Sadly, I rarely stopped to take a look around or pause long enough to realize how lucky I was to be spending so much time in this unique place. That realization finally came with a particularly sleepy bunch of sightseers one early summer afternoon. I had made them plenty of lunch; it’s safe to estimate that this group of middle-aged adventurers, in their neoprene booties and bluegrass straw hats, ate at least two or three sandwiches each. Following lunch, my question, “Who wants to take a hike up Big Dominguez Creek to the waterfalls and >>>

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n a previous life, as a fly-fishing and rafting guide, I would often find myself in red rock country where the lower Gunnison River and the Big and Little Dominguez creeks meet. It was my job to bring a handful of people safely down a stretch of relatively gentle river, serve lunch in the shade near the river, and then lead the group on a short hike to a set of cooling waterfalls and a look at some ancient rock art. At the time, I didn’t think much of this trip. Instead of looking for desert bighorn sheep high on the cliff walls, I worried if there would be enough lunch supplies for my group of hungry sightseers. I constantly checked my watch, guessing at how long it would take me to pack everyone up in the

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BLUE SKIES – Jarvis near the confluence of the Big and Little Dominguez creeks inside the Dominguez Canyon Wilderness Area. (Photo by Torie Jarvis)

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Endless Resources, All Protected The Dominguez Canyon Wilderness area is a 66,380-acre patch of protected land on the west side of the Gunnison River, north of Delta, Colo. It is part of the 210,012-acre Dominguez-Escalante National Conservation Area, created in 2009 with the passage of the Omnibus Public Lands Management Act. The land ranges in elevation from 4,800 to 8,200 ft., and transitions from rugged canyon country to evergreen forests. Within its boundaries lie nearly 30 miles of the Gunnison River and, according to the Bureau of Land Management, geological and paleontological resources spanning 600 million years. The conservation area contains numerous cultural and historic sites. It is also home to much wildlife, from larger fauna – such as mule deer, golden eagles, mountain lion, turkey, black bear and desert bighorn – to smaller species, like the common biting fly and the collared lizard. There are 115 miles

of streams and rivers in the National Conservation Area, enough to provide a suitable habitat for 52 protected species of animals and plants. It was with all this information in mind (as well as a compass, a topo map and supplies for at least two nights in our packs) that my wife, Torie, and I set off from the newly-built trailhead at Bridgeport to see how far we could make it into the Dominguez Canyon Wilderness area. I devised a plan that we would hike seven or eight miles up Little Dominguez Creek, and then cross over to the north, through what the map termed ‘Rough Draw,’ and hopefully find Big Dominguez Creek. We would follow the Big Dominguez back to where both Big and Little Dominguez creeks meet, at the Gunnison River, for our return. From the trailhead, the hike parallels both the Gunnison River and the railroad tracks, where an occasional train carrying coal slowly chugged by. Thanks to a giant pedestrian steel bridge, the trail crosses the Gunnison and then enters an area popular for camping with hikers as well as boaters

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petroglyphs?” was met with silence. It was naptime in the shade for this group. No reason to watch these people sleep, I thought, so I took myself on a silent, peaceful hike up to the waterfalls, and to the shade of a bright green cottonwood tree where the little and big Dominguez canyons meet. From this vantage point, perched atop a flat sandstone rock, I could see up both canyons with their high, painted rock walls. Shades of red, orange and black geologic layers were stacked on top of each other; gin-scented juniper and pinon dotted the canyon floor. The only other sound besides the constant trickle of a nearby creek was that of the hot wind, blowing through the leaves of the cottonwoods. It was a scene straight out of a Louis L’Amour novel – the quintessential rugged West. I realized then that I’d walked less than three-quarters of a mile to see all this. I also realized it would take only about an hour to get back here from my home in Montrose This place was begging to be explored.

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RUGGED WESTERN RED ROCK – The scene in the Dominguez Canyon Wilderness Area ranges in elevation from 4,800 feet to 8,200 feet. Pictured below is the bud of a cottonwood tree (left), Green Mormon Tea, and Torie Jarvis filtering water from Little Dominguez Creek. (Photos by Gus Jarvis)

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(where my epic guided lunch sessions took place years ago). Under crystal blue skies on a warm day in early spring, Torie and I made the turn from the Gunnison River and began our journey up the vast creek bottom of the Little Dominguez. We passed a patch of black granite, over which waterfalls flow in the lower part of the canyon. The granite was subsumed by red sandstone as we hiked on. Our view from the Little Dominguez was expansive. Blooms on the cottonwoods were just beginning to take hold, and two crows followed us awhile, waiting for us to drop a handful of trail mix by accident. At other times, the creek bottom was rougher, and the trail became harder to find. But around every corner there was something new to explore. It didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t take long, given this rugged landscape, to realize that my plan of hiking up-and-over from Little to Big Dominguez Creek was more harebrained than realistic. On the map, my proposed route looked like no big deal, but once we were in >>>

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hiked just a bit further, closer to Rough Draw, and everything opened up again. Our eyes opened, as well. To the left was the Little Dominguez’s rolling river bottom, wide and expansive. To the right was Rough Draw, equally vast. The black granite, full of red crystal intrusions, peeked above the sandstone surface again. This was the landscape we wanted to be in. With layered crags, a few desert-stream waterfalls and cactus flowers on the verge of blooming, it was like entering a lost world. I watched a bright green collared lizard scramble into a crack. The place was nearly silent, but for the sound of the wind blowing through a gnarled piñon tree. I wanted more of this landscape I had no idea existed. It was obvious that few people ever visit this place. And luckily for us, it was practically in our backyard on the Western Slope. Somewhat giddy from our discovery, Torie and I backtracked down Little Dominguez Creek, and decided to spend the night at Gunnison River crossing. Over dinner, we discussed how big the Dominguez

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the bottom of the canyon, everything seemed bigger than we thought it would be. About a mile short of Rough Draw, we stopped for the day and set up camp. The pain in our feet was numbed by the taste of single-malt Scotch, and a meal of Indian food I had brought from home. We sat next to the flowing creek, listening to the sound of a canyon wren and enjoying the play of light and shadow on the canyon walls as the sun began to set. The shadows were no less spectacular the next morning, as the sun rose over the eastern part of the canyon. Over hot coffee, tea and oatmeal, we decided that two nights was simply not enough time for us to complete our original plan. We decided instead to leave our packs at camp while we hiked on to see what Rough Draw looked like. To be perfectly honest, the last two miles of the hike leading to Rough Draw were just that –rough. There was so much scrubby vegetation, we weren’t sure if continuing the hike was worth it. Yes, the canyon walls were still stunning, but the view now wasn’t as expansive as I had expected it to be. We

A LOOK BACK – Just before turning the the corner for a view up Rough Draw. The geologic sandstone layers offer an endless spectrum of colors in the Dominguez Canyon Wilderness Area. (Photo by Gus Jarvis)

Wilderness Area is. The hike had given us more insight into what was out there, yet somehow, knowing more, it seemed like we now understood less about this extraordinary place. With enough food for three to five days, the hike up Rough Draw and over to the Big Dominguez is probably possible, although we’ve heard of some hikers making weeklong trips to the area’s western boundary and back. Midsummer may be too hot a time for hiking new terrain with a heavy pack. The Dominguez Wilderness Area is best experienced in the spring, after a long winter, or in the fall, before cold settles in again. Torie and I saw only the briefest bit of it on our trip. It would take a lifetime of hiking to fully explore this compelling landscape, a gem to keep returning to. To reach the Bridgeport Trailhead, travel north on Hwy. 50 approximately 16 miles past Delta. Turn west onto Bridgeport Road and follow the BLM signage. For more information on the conservation area, including BLM regulations, visit lm.gov/co/st/en/nca/ denca.html.

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Ouray Trail Group Volunteers Maintain Vital 200-Plus-Mile Trail System

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By Samantha T i sdel Wright PHO TOS COURTE SY OU RAY TRAIL GROUP

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from 4,500 to 7,000 hours of collective labor a year, to ensure safe trails for the hiking public, but its core trail crew consists of a group of eight to 10 diehards who meet twice a week all summer long to work on the trails. Picking Up the Slack Sometimes their ranks are bolstered by other trail users, including runners and support crew from the infamous Hardrock 100 ultra-endurance run, who annually work on the Bear Creek Trail (part of the Hardrock 100 route) and other trails in the area as part of their preparation leading up to race day in July. OTG works under the authority of the U.S. Forest Service (which “no longer has money in its

budget to carry out a lot of trail maintenance,” explained OTG member J. Gary Dunn) and the Ouray District Ranger Office, but mostly sets its own agenda, based on intel from local hikers, who recon the conditions of the trails. “When they see a problem, they will let us know,” Dunn said. Projects are prioritized by Trail Boss Phil Wolkin. Of the 80-plus trails OTG maintains, the Ouray Perimeter Trail gets by far the most attention. This five-mile trail system links existing trails with newly built ones to create a loop around Ouray that can be accessed via many different trailheads, taking in beloved attractions like Cascade Falls, the Ouray Ice Park and Box Canyon Park, while providing beautiful views of the town and surrounding peaks. Although it remains a work in progress, with a small portion on the west side of town still to be completed, the trail was accessed >>>

A SISYPHEAN TASK – There is always plenty of work to be done to maintain the 80-plus trails around Ouray County. The Ouray Trail Group’s all-volunteer trail crew puts in anywhere from 4,500 to 7,000 hours of collective labor each summer.

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he City of Ouray sits like a jewel in a setting of mountains laced together with dozens of hiking trails that range from mild meanders – like the popular Ouray Perimeter Trail encircling the town – to butt-busters like the now-reopened Old Twin Peaks Trail. Most of these trails were built by hardened miners more than a century ago, compacted by the hooves of donkeys carrying supplies up to the mines and ore back down. Others, like the Goldbelt/Old Horsethief Trail, were traditional pathways used by the Ute Indians. The Ouray County trail network is now maintained by members of the Ouray Trail Group, an all-volunteer nonprofit organization, formed in 1986. Its more than one hundred members care for 83 trails (over 200 miles), putting in anywhere

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by an estimated 15,000 hikers last year. “We have a higher standard for the Perimeter Trail than Wilderness trails, because we know there are so many young families and inexperienced hikers on it,” Dunn said. “We try to make it into the smoothest trail we can.”

Last summer, the OTG trail crew also devoted hundreds of hours to fixing up the Old Twin Peaks Trail, installing 146 steps along the very steep trail,

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‘A Stairway to Heaven’

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which ascends from Queen Street in Ouray toward the iconic Twin Peaks, an integral part of Ouray’s mountainous skyline. (The historic trail fell out of use after a landslide wiped out a portion of it in 1986, and it was closed by the U.S. Forest Service.) “It has taken many years to get back into usable shape,” Dunn said. “After the landslide, there were places you would be on your hands and knees, it was that steep, with loose rock just like marbles. “Now, it’s like a stairway to heaven. We really are proud of it,” he said, of the effort to reopen the trail. “It took a lot of cribbing, and all kinds of work.”

With the Old Twin Peaks project officially finished, OTG is shifting its sights this summer to a variety of other projects. “On any given Monday or Thursday, you’ll find us out there,” Dunn said. The trail crew meets at 8 a.m. at the “Powderhouse” (an old stone building along County Road 361) to pick up tools and get their marching orders. They might stay together for the day, or, if there are enough volunteers, break up into several groups. They drive to the trailhead, then hike anywhere from two to five miles to the day’s worksite, carrying tools and whatever else they need. Wolkin, as trail boss, is the chainsaw man. He has a special

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this, the crew lines up all in a row, like a chain gang, each with a “McLeod” (a double-sided rake and hoe with a long, wooden handle) pushing rocks off the trail, and asking each other, as if they were all in prison, “What are you in for?” Dunn laughed. “We always find humor in what we do. It really helps.” Another thing that helps is that the trail workers are doing what they love to do. “It gives us a purpose to be outside in beautiful, rugged places,” Dunn explained. Many of the volunteers are local history buffs, sensitive to the fact that the trails they are working on are historic artifacts. “We know these are all old mining trails,” Dunn said, “and if a trail washes out, we do our best to put it back in the exact same location. “What amazes us in some areas is how the origi-

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The trail work takes them anywhere from Ironton Park, just off of US Highway 550/ Red Mountain Pass, to way out in the Big Blue Wilderness on the West Fork of the Cimarron. “That’s really fun, because nobody is out there but us,” Dunn said, of the West Fork. “We try to work on every trail every summer.” On workdays, barring dangerous conditions, OTG trail-builders head out rain or shine. “If it’s gray and cloudy we’ll go out, and if we get caught in the rain, we get caught in the rain,” Dunn said. Trail work can seem Sisyphean – “There are places we rebuild, rebuild and rebuild,” Dunn said, among them the infamous 13 switchbacks zigzagging up a steep shale-covered slope on the lower Bear Creek Trail. Here, “the shale will slip down and cover the trail again and again,” Dunn said. For jobs like

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pack in which to carry it. On a typical day, crews clear downed trees, take rocks off the trail, cut down dead trees (to use for cribbing on washed-out sections of trail) and rake dirt (to use as backfill). A lot of know-how has been passed down over the years. Dunn joined OTG 20 years ago, but did not become an active trail worker until he retired three years ago from his career as a real estate agent. These days, Dunn skis all winter in Telluride, and spends his summers working on the trails around Ouray. “I can go out now and lead a crew,” he said. “I know what needs to be done.” After putting in a hard day’s work, the trail crew might be home by late afternoon, depending on the job at hand, and how far they had to hike to get there.

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PERIMETER TRAIL – The popular Ouray Perimeter Trail gets more TLC from the Ouray Trail Group than any other trail the group maintains. Several years ago, the trail crew built this bridge over Portland Creek. Now, OTG has launched a fund-raising drive to build a new segment of the Perimeter Trail that will include a bridge over Oak Creek. (Courtesy photos)

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For their Herculean efforts, the OTG members are rewarded with a profound sense of accomplishment. “There is a real sense of satisfaction, months later or years later, when you hike along a trail and say to yourself, ‘I remember when I helped build this,’” Dunn reflected. They also bask in the appreciation of fellow hikers. “When hikers come by, they always thank us,” Dunn said. “When we are working and dirty and sweaty, and they say ‘You guys are doing a great job,’ that’s our pay.” Wanted: Some ‘Really Strong 60-Year-Olds’ OTG runs on volunteer power and a slim operating budget; its primary fundraising source is revenues from sales of the map that it publishes – Hiking Trails of Ouray County – that combines 12

USGS topographical maps into one easy-to-read map showing over 83 trails in Ouray County and the vicinity. The map can be purchased at many retail outlets in Ouray and Montrose counties. While donations are gratefully accepted, “What the group really needs is more volunteers,” Dunn said. Because of the time commitment involved and the fact that workdays are generally on Mondays and Thursdays, “We pretty much need retired people,” Dunn added. “We kid around that we are hoping to get some really strong 60-year-olds.” Kidding aside, OTG welcomes volunteers of all ages to come help out for a few hours, a few days or weeks, or (why not!) the whole dang summer! For more information, contact Phil Wolkin, trail maintenance boss at 2philw@gmail.com, or at 970/325-4368. To learn more about the Ouray Trail Group and read detailed descriptions of all the trails the group maintains, visit ouraytrails.org.

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nal miners built those trails. All we are doing is fixing something that was built over a century ago.” Remarkably, OTG has never had an accident. Nor do members tend to have run-ins with wildlife. “We are making too much noise, with our chain saws, pickaxes and McLeods,” Dunn reckoned. Each trail has its own charms, but Dunn (who lives right in Ouray) is partial to a few in his own backyard, including the Old Twin Peaks, Bear Creek and Gold Belt/ Old Horse Thief trails. OTG over the years has had help from some colorful characters, like the late Dancing Pat Morris, who used his llamas to transport sign posts; Montrose’s Dave Nix, who contributes his professional chainsaw expertise on the largest and most dangerous “widow-maker” trees; Jerry Whitlock, who uses his mules to transport tools and materials; and Dave Hoops, who lets OTG volunteers use his yurt for overnight work in remote areas.

DRIVE OTG LAUNCHES FUNDRAISING TRAIL FOR THE OURAY PERIMETER summer calendar

l the very popular Ouray Perimeter Trai The next phase in the completion of ge brid new a and l trai challenging new will require constructing 800 feet of . Creek Canyon on Ouray’s west side Oak into and across the spectacular 0 ,00 $50 a Trail Group is undertaking To complete it in 2014 the Ouray hope you can help make it happen. fund-raising project this year, and they

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ted in 2006 and has a tentative com The five-mile Perimeter Trail was star ge brid ary ess nec Creek terrain and pletion date in 2015. The steep Oak the income from OTG’s usual map ond bey will require financial resources and book sales. CO Ouray Trail Group, Box 50, Ouray, Contributions can be mailed to the dibe can ns stio Que ouraytrails.org. 81427 or can be arranged through . 205 5-4 /32 /318-1363 or 970 rected to Bob and Karen Risch 970

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Bevy of Bloodies

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food & drink

For many, it’s the centerpiece to Sunday brunch. For others, it’s what we reach for following a long night of fun. Or it’s just the ticket after kicking back after work and craving a somewhat, daresay, healthy relaxer. Fact is, the Bloody Mary is served everywhere and every which way. Who doesn’t love a good Bloody Mary? The history of the Bloody Mary varies, but it generally goes something like this: Bartender Pete Petoit created the basic tomato juice-and-vodka drink in the early 1920s, at Harry’s New York Bar in Paris. Sometime after Prohibition, he brought the drink, then named the Red Snapper, to the King Cole Bar, at the St. Regis Hotel in New York City. Here, according to bartender lore, he dressed it up with various seasonings – hot sauce, lemon juice, horseradish and celery salt – and the Bloody Mary was born. The tomato juice/vodka drink became a canvas for creativity – Ernest Hemingway created his own version of the drink, made by the pitcherful. “Keep on stirring and taste it to see how it is doing,” he wrote in 1947. “If you get it too powerful, weaken with more tomato juice. If it lacks authority, add more vodka.” From the type of juice to the seasonings to outrageous garnishes, the Bloody Mary has endless possibilities. Simple or extravagant, Bloodies are alive and well in the western San Juan Mountains. Here are a few of our favorites.

Bartenders

Get Creative

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With the

Ever-Drinkable

Bloody Mary

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r a B K SMA 568 Mountain Village Blvd. Mountain Village inside the Hotel Madeline 970/369-0880

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With SMAK Bar’s Bloody Mary, it’s all about the garnish. Both breakfast and lunch are covered with this over-the-top cocktail, complete with garnishes of an excellent lamb slider, a slab of applewoodsmoked bacon, cheese, stuffed olives, peppers, celery and anything else the bartender can dream up; $15.

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Niko’s Tavern 303 E. Main Street Montrose 970/249-7709

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Whether shooting some stick or playing darts, Niko’s Tavern provides a classic no-frills Bloody Mary that’s just right; how it’s nuanced depends on who’s behind the bar. On a recent Thursday afternoon, this tomato juice-based Bloody Mary had the perfect amount of Tabasco that left us calling for another round; $6.

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>>>

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Cavallo’s Restaura nt 630 Main Street Ouray 970/325-2042

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Sid and Kelly Cavallo not only brought New Orleans-inspired dishes to Ouray, they brought a classic Big Easy Bloody Mary as well (rebranded the Bloody Bull). It’s a traditional Bloody Mary, but with a splash of au jus, delivering a rich bloody experience like no other. It’s garnished with a lemon wedge, olive and a piece of pickled okra; $6.

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New Oak…T Fat A he lley 250 San Juan Ave. Telluride below Camels Garden Hotel 970/728-3985

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Stop in at the base of the TellurideMountain Village Gondola to taste this hearty and spicy house mix that’s not shy on horseradish or black pepper. Made with Tito’s vodka and garnished with lemon or lime and an olive; $6.

Parlor Bar at the New Sheridan

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231 W. Colorado Ave. Telluride 970/728-9100 The Parlor Bar serves a special house-mixed Bloody Mary that comes garnished with an olive and a pepperoncini. Drinker’s choice of vodka, but we suggest Woody Creek Vodka, distilled in Colorado’s Roaring Fork Valley; $12.

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ber

The Camp Rob

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1515 Ogden Road Montrose 970/240-1590 Be sure to order the Tito’s Handmade Vodka Bloody Mary with brunch at the Camp Robber. It comes with a house-made Bloody Mary mix that’s vibrant and full of flavor, mixed in a Tito’s mason jar and handed over to the imbiber to shake and pour over fresh ice. Garnished with lime wedge and olives; $6.

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fé

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a Cimarron C 153 Hwy. 550 North Ridgway 970/626-4426

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Want to catch the game punctuated by a great, mixed-to-order bloody? Cimarron Café has just the ticket, plus they add in over-the-top friendly service. Their tomato juice-based Bloody has a hint of Worcestershire and a touch of heat, with traditional garnishes of lime and olives. Ketel One Vodka highly recommended; $8.

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u se o H e n o t S e Th 1415 Hawk Parkway Montrose 970/240-8899

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Grab a seat at the Stone House’s beautiful bar and enjoy a thick and rich Bloody Mary, featuring Colorado’s own Freshies Bloody Mary Mix. Those familiar with Freshies know what to expect: it pops. Lush and piquant, with all natural ingredients, a salted rim, an olive and a lime; $5.75.

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Located on the sunny side of Main street

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PICKIN’ PRODUCTIONS BRINGS FREE MUSIC N O N P A R E I L TO WESTERN SLOPE TOWN PARKS

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BY ADAM SMITH

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SHEL

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Afrolicious

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The Brothers Comatose

The Gold Magnolias

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TAARKA

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Paradise Theater. Over the past decade, the organization has expanded to a dozen two-band concerts every summer, scheduled as a three-month series hosted in Ouray (June), Ridgway (July), and (in August) in Paonia. These highly anticipated Thursday evening showcases attract locals and curious travelers to centralized scenic parks in each town. Bringing together nationally touring acts, state-of-the-art sound technology, craft beer and food vendors, the real surprise comes from the ticket price – free. Consistently perfect weather and a beautiful aesthetic backdrop for nationally touring acts like Orgone, The Brothers Comatose and Paper Bird is noteworthy for any audiophile’s bucket list, but subtracting the anxiety of a price tag makes catching these shows a no brainer. So in a region renowned for offering high-profile festivals and big-name acts, how does Pickin’ Productions pull it off? “To address it as a whole, the birth of the series came from Paonia building a stage,” explained Pickin’ Productions founder Rob Miller. “Around that

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ummer in Colorado means two things: unlimited world-class recreation, and a live music soundtrack unlike any other to complement the action. Music festivals claim venue spaces ranging from metropolitan city blocks to the natural retreats offered by small mountain towns. Historic venues, aged a century or more, come alive at night, with an assortment of toptier artists that push their tunes late into the evening. Yet there also exists a balance between the perks of large outdoor festivals and intimate late-night shows. On the Western Slope, a weekly concert series runs through the summer season for adventurous music lovers seeking something a little different. The self-described purveyors of fine live music in western Colorado, Pickin’ Productions has put its proverbial money where its mouth is, with a threemonth run of once-a-week performances, at a price that certainly won’t break the bank. The Paonia-based production company, founded in 2001, started organically with one-off gigs at the

Finnders and Youngberg

Rob Miller >>>

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Peter Rowan

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same time, Ridgway was looking to start planning their own community music event. “Because I had been in a bluegrass band for years that played virtually every town concert series there is, I was familiar with what worked best logistically. With the help of a few organizations, many sponsors, and the sales of beer and wine, we are able to break even, and that is all we really aim to do.” A transplant from New York in 1999, with a history of promoting shows (starting with Phish at Clarkson University in 1991), Miller’s initial motive for relocation was his dream of pursuing farming. He now nurtures instead a balanced routine between his main gig as a booking agent for HIS Washington, D.C.-based Quicksilver Productions, and his Pickin’ Productions “passion project,” cultivating a role as one of the Western Slope’s most important local promoters of nationally known musicians. Miller’s trademark grassroots support and his

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Paper Bird

adventureGUIDE | SUMMER2014

Orgone

networking and strategic business maneuvers has been key to Pickin’ Productions’ success. “My main job requires me to be a booking agent for 12 bands, so by being in the music world, I am hyper-aware of what bands are on the scene, upand-coming, and most importantly, when they are touring,” he said. Not that it’s been easy. “When I arrived in Paonia, there wasn’t exactly a ton of culture happening,” he said, “and particularly not much music.” This prompted Miller to find a foothold at the town’s radio institution, KVNF, which inevitably put him in front of the Yonder Mountain String Band at the Rockygrass Festival. In an interview, the band expressed interest in playing Paonia; Miller has built upon the success of that sold-out show, ever since. The synergy between KVNF and Miller remains, and the radio station does live, on-site broadcasting of all 12 concerts in the Pickin’ Summer Series. In addition to offering financial support, the

Ouray, Ridgway and Paonia communities work hard to make their four Thursday summer-night concerts memorable, so that each town’s set of four shows is unique to that town. As for the talent, Pickin’ Productions strives to maintain and improve the talent each year. For this summer’s 12 concerts, “I am really excited about the seven-piece funk band Afrolicious,” Miller said, “and a fantastic rock‘n’roll band, Congress, playing a co-bill to close out the Ouray series. I am also thrilled to bring bluegrass legend Peter Rowan in July, and a cool aspect of that show will be that Frank Sullivan and Dirty Kitchen will serve as Peter’s backup band.” This year’s lineup will expand beyond U.S. borders, with Paonia hosting the debut of Baskrey, a Swedish band, and Mustered Courage, from Australia, closing out the 12 weeks of music in August. A tall lineup with a low price point makes the 2014 Pickin’ Productions summer schedule a must-do for sonic adventurers.

CONTENTS

O U R AY

JUNE 5: SHEL with TAARKA JUNE 12: THE BROTHERS COMATOSE with FINNDERS AND YOUNGBERG

JUNE 19: FOX STREET with THE GOLD MAGNOLIAS

JUNE 26: AFROLICIOUS with THE CONGRESS

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FEATURE

R I D G WAY JULY 3: PAPER BIRD with CHIMNEY CHOIR JULY 10: HALDEN WOFFORD & THE HI*BEAMS: A TRIBUTE TO DYLAN & THE DEAD with LASH LARUE

JULY 17: ORGONE with ANDY FRASCO

JULY 24: ZONGO JUNCTION with THE ROYAL WE

JULY 31: PETER ROWAN with FRANK SOLIVAN & DIRTY KITCHEN with BRUCE HAYES

Miss Tess & The Talkbacks

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PAO N I A AUGUST 7: SHINYRIBS with LOCUST HONEY

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AUGUST 14: MISS TESS & THE TALKBACKS with KIPORI WOODS

Zongo Junction Drew Emmitt

AUGUST 21: DREW EMMITT BAND with SIMPLER TIMES

Baskery

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AUGUST 28: BASKERY with MUSTERED COURAGE

Shinyribs

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CONTENTS GEAR

JUD WIEBE

COURTHOUSE MOUNTAIN

GRAND MESA CRAG CREST TRAIL

ICE LAKES BASIN Distance: 7.5 miles Time: 6 hours, round trip Elevation Gain: 2,900 feet Difficulty: Moderate This hike begins just outside of Silverton and is well worth the drive. A couple miles north of town, turn left and head up County Road 7 (the South Mineral Creek Road) for 3.83 miles, with the slopes of Bear Mountain and Beattie Peak looming in your windshield and resembling Scotland’s Benn Eigh National Nature Reserve on a massive scale. The trailhead is directly across from the Busy Mineral Creek Campground. The trail starts at 9,700 ft.. If you go all the way to Fuller Lake (recommended)

MONTROSE MESA CREEK TRAIL, CURECANTI NATIONAL RECREATION AREA Distance: 1.5 miles, round trip Time: 1 hour, + or Elevation gain: Minimal Difficulty: Easy to moderately strenuous This is a great, short, scenic trip into the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. From Cimarron on Hwy. 50, turn north at the Cimarron Visitor Center with its exhibits of Rio Grande Narrow Gauge Railroad cars and a preserved trestle. Drive one mile and park overlooking the Morrow Point Dam. The trail leads below the dam to a footbridge over the river (technically Crystal Lake) to the north side. The trail follows the river downstream with spectacular views of the narrow canyon walls. A picnic area marks the turnaround, and a nice place to put your feet in the water.

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Distance: 10 miles from Eggleston Lake, 11 miles from Island Lake Time: 6-7 hours Elevation Gain: 954 feet Difficulty: Moderate Crag Crest is located on Grand Mesa, and is a fairly easy walk through a forest to a ridge with some of the best vistas in the state. The “crest” of Crag Crest Trail becomes a knife-edge ridge for quite some time along the top (11,189 feet), with precipitous drop-offs on both

Distance: 3 miles Time: 3 hours, round trip Elevation Gain: 1,800 feet Difficulty: Moderate (short and steep) Situated north of Ridgway, Courthouse Mountain is a jagged and craggy summit in the Cimarron Range. Topping out at 12,152 ft., the trail up Courthouse is short and steep, but offers striking views of the Cimarron Valley and the tower of Chimney Rock. To get to the remote trailhead, from Ridgway go north on Hwy. 550 and take a right on County Rd.

S I LV E R T O N

you will top out at 12,600 ft. Ice Lake is 2.7 miles, and Fuller Lake is 3.5 miles. The hike takes you not only to a lush alpine lake basin, but leaves you standing beneath the classic spike of Goldenhorn, one of the four major peaks that surround the basin, along with Vermillion, Fuller and U.S. Grant. A Trip Advisor reviewer rates this hike as excellent (some have referred to it as Valhalla) and offers photos as well as useful points for getting there (tinyurl.com/c3borms).

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Distance: 5.4 miles round trip Time: 3 hours, round trip Elevation Gain: 1,900 feet Difficulty: Moderate If it’s a lake hike you’re

GRAND JUNCTION

R I D G W AY

10 (Owl Creek Pass); a large green sign will direct you to the well-maintained road. Follow this road through the maze of ranch roads that crisscross the beautiful landscape beneath Courthouse Mountain, and continue over Owl Creek Pass. Just over the pass, take the first right turn and follow the road up the Little Cimarron drainage for 1.3 miles. The trailhead and modest sign for Courthouse Trail is in a cluster of trees on the right. (Don’t blink or you will miss it.) Park well off the road. The single-track trail is quite steep, but well worth it. It winds up through the trees and along ridgelines. Closer to the top, some rock scrambling is involved to get to the summit. Return the way you came.

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HOPE LAKE

sides. There are 360-degree views not only directly below to the mesa’s many lakes, but out to the La Sals, the Elk Mountains, the nearby Bookcliffs and the San Juans. Because the walk is mostly along a ridge, it is best to begin early in the day; there’s no place to hide in an afternoon thunderstorm. June-August can be very buggy; don’t forget mosquito repellent. September is generally mosquito-free. The walk is a loop: start from either the Island Lake or the Eggleston Lake trailhead. To access the trail, take Highway 65 off I-70 (if you are coming from Grand Junction). Island Lake is 8 miles beyond Mesa Lakes Resort. Eggleston Lake is just down the road past Island Lake. Continue on 65, and turn left on FR 121. After 2.5 miles, make another left turn.

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Distance: 2.5 miles Time: 2 hours, round trip Elevation Gain: 1,200 feet (max. elev. 9,900 feet) Difficulty: Moderate This may be the most popular Telluride locals’ hike, thanks to its easy access from town. The trail starts at the top of Aspen Street and loops back to Tomboy Road, at the top of Oak Street (or vice versa). At the north end of Aspen Street, pass the trailhead and cross the footbridge on your left (go straight to reach Cornet Falls, about 1/4 mile). Follow the main trail as it climbs steeply from town. Switchbacks eventually top out above the red-rock cliffs, offering outstanding views of the entire valley. The trail continues through aspen and spruce forests, crossing a small stream, before reaching Liberty Bell Road. Take a right here to head back to town (left heads up into Liberty Bell Basin, a strenuous ascent), following switchbacks that lead down to Tomboy Road. If you start from the north end of Oak Street, take a right on Tomboy Road, then a left at the gated barricade. Once you crest the top of Liberty Bell Road, look for the trail on the left hand side.

after, Hope Lake is a classic. This unforgettable alpine destination hike is well worth the effort required to reach the sapphire blue waters of Hope Lake, 11,670 feet above sea level. On Hwy. 145, head toward Cortez and Lizard Head Pass until you get to Trout Lake. Take a left on Trout Lake Rd., following the unimproved dirt road for 2.3 miles to the trailhead on road #626, turning left at the Y on #627 as the road begins its upward switchbacks. Start hiking at the Forest Service trail marker #410; the trail will gradually wind its way up through a large spruce forest, eventually climbing above tree line, crossing a few small streams along the way. The views of brightly colored 13,000-foot peaks are amazing. Return along the same trail, taking in views of Trout Lake below and the Wilson range in the distance.

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TELLURIDE

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hiking

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Mon.-Sat. 11am-5pm Thurs. ‘til 7pm • Sun. 1-5pm

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Tribute to Western Movies Days September 26-28, 2014

www. mountainwestmuseum.com

970.240.3400 • richfike@gmail.com 68169 Miami Rd • Montrose, CO. Monday - Saturday 8:30 a.M. - 4:30 p.M.

CONTENTS GEAR FEATURE

ANASAZI HERITAGE CENTER MUSEUM, DOLORES

CROW CANYON ARCHAEOLOGICAL CENTER, CORTEZ

Location: 27501 Highway 184, Dolores Contact: 980/882-5600, blm. gov/co/st/en/fo/ahc.html

Location: 23390 Road K Contact: 970/565-8975, crowcanyon.org

Location: 3065 West 2nd Ave. (Corner of 31 St.) Contact: 970/259-2402, or animasmuseum.org

Location: 251 Meeker St. Contact: 970/874-8721, deltacountyhistoricalsociety. com

CANYON OF THE ANCIENTS NATIONAL MONUMENT, CORTEZ

DINOSAUR JOURNEY MUSEUM, FRUITA

CORTEZ CULTURAL CENTER Location: 25 N. Market St. Contact: 970/565-1151, cortezculturalcenter.org

Location: 331 Elk Ave. Contact: 970/349-1880, crestedbuttemuseum.com

CROSS ORCHARDS HISTORIC SITE, GRAND JUNCTION

DURANGO DISCOVERY MUSEUM Location: 1333 Camino Del Rio Contact: 970/259-9234, durangodiscovery.org

FORT UNCOMPAHGRE LIVING HISTORY MUSEUM, DELTA Location: 360 Main St. Contact: 970/874-7566, deltacountycolorado.com

HOTCHKISS-CRAWFORD HISTORICAL MUSEUM, HOTCHKISS

MUSEUM OF THE WEST, GRAND JUNCTION

Location: 180 S. Second St. Contact: 970/872-3780; hchm. freehostia.com

Location: 462 Ute. Ave. Contact: 970/242-0971, museumofwesternco.com

HOVENWEEP NATIONAL MONUMENT, CORTEZ

OURAY COUNTY RANCH HISTORY MUSEUM, COLONA

Location: County Road G/ McElmo Canyon Road Contact: 970/562-4282 ext 10, nps.gov/hove/index.htm

Location: 206 Cty. Rd 1 Contact: 970/626-5075, ocrhm.org

OURAY COUNTY HISTORICAL MUSEUM

Location: No.1 Navajo Hill via US 160 Contact: 970/529-4465, visitmesaverde.com

Location: 420 6th Ave. Contact: 970/325-4576, ouraycountyhistoricalsociety.org

Location: Just south of Montrose Pavilion Contact: montrosegardens.org

MONTROSE COUNTY HISTORICAL MUSEUM Location: 21 North Rio Grande Ave. Contact: 970/249-2085, montrosehistory.org

MOUNTAIN BIKE HALL OF FAME, CRESTED BUTTE Location: 331 Elk Ave. Contact: 970/349-1880, mtnbikehalloffame.com

SOUTHERN UTE CULTURAL CENTER & MUSEUM, IGNACIO Location: 77 County Road 517 Contact: 970/563-9583, succm.org

TELLURIDE HISTORICAL MUSEUM

MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK, CORTEZ

MONTROSE BOTANICAL GARDENS, MONTROSE

Location: 1557 Greene Street near San Juan County Courthouse Contact: 970/387-5838, sanjuancountyhistoricalsociety. org

PIONEER MUSEUM, GUNNISON Location: 803 E. Tomichi Ave. Contact: 970/641-4530, gunnisonpioneermuseum.com

RIDGWAY RAILROAD MUSEUM Location: Junction of Hwy. 550 and Hwy. 62 Contact: ridgwayrailroadmuseum.org

RIO GRANDE SOUTHERN RAILROAD MUSEUM, DOLORES Location: Railroad Ave. Contact: gallopinggoose5.com

Location: 201 W. Gregory, top of Fir St. Contact: 970/728-3344, telluridmuseum.org

UTE INDIAN MUSEUM, MONTROSE Location: 17253 Chipeta Rd. Contact: 970/249-3098, historycolorado.org/museums

WESTERN COLORADO CENTER FOR THE ARTS, GRAND JUNCTION Location: 1803 N. 7th St Contact: 970/243-7337; info@gjartcenter.org

WESTERN COLORADO BOTANICAL GARDENS, GRAND JUNCTION Location: 641 Struthers Ave. Contact: 970/245-3288, wcbotanic.org

adventureGUIDE | SUMMER2014

PARTING SHOT

Location: 3073 F Road Contact: 970/434-9814, museumofwesternco.com

Location: Durango Depot, 479 Main Ave.; Silverton Depot, 10th and Cement St. Contact: 970/247-2733, durangotrain.com

Location: 68169 E. Miami Rd. and Hwy. 50 Contact: 970/240-3400, mountainwestmuseum.com

AD INDEX

CRESTED BUTTE MOUNTAIN HERITAGE MUSEUM

DURANGO AND SILVERTON NARROW GAUGE RAILROAD MUSEUMS, DURANGO/SILVERTON

Location: 43224 Hwy. 141 Contact: 970/931-2895, gatewayautomuseum.com

SAN JUAN COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY MUSEUM, SILVERTON

SUMMER CALENDAR

Location: Visit Anasazi Heritage Center first (27501 Highway 184 Dolores) Contact: 970/882-5600, blm. gov/co/st/en/nm/canm.html

Location: 550 Jurassic Court Contact: 970/858-7282, museumofwesternco.com

MUSEUM OF THE MOUNTAIN WEST, MONTROSE

GET OUT

THE ANIMAS MUSEUM, DURANGO

DELTA COUNTY HISTORICAL MUSEUM, DELTA

GATEWAY AUTO MUSEUM

FOOD & DRINK

museums

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C O 4 4 6

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CONTENTS GEAR FEATURE

CIMARRON FORKS

Access: Easy, roadside Best Months: Spring to early fall Restrictions: Catch and release; flies and lures only Flies: Tan Caddis, Prince Nymph This classic small mountain stream is close to Telluride and provides the opportunity to catch all four of the region’s trout species: brown, brook, rainbow, and

SAN MIGUEL RIVER ON THE VALLEY FLOOR Access: Easy Best Months: Post-runoff to late fall Restrictions: Catch and release, flies and lures only Flies: Prince Nymph, San Juan worm, Copper John, Hare’s Ear Now that public access has been opened on Telluride’s Valley Floor, this small portion of the San Miguel River is fishable. Whether on foot or by car, there are access points on the east (River Trail), north (Shell station) and west (Society Turn/ Lawson Hill) sides of the Valley Floor. Its convenient location and easy access makes it a perfect stream for anglers of all ages to get out and cast a rod. Look for

shade lines and undercut banks and proceed upstream cautiously as these fish are often easily spooked.

UPPER DOLORES RIVER Access: Easy, roadside Best Months: Midsummer to late fall Restrictions: Catch and release; flies and lures only Flies: Trude, Royal Wulff, Peacock Caddis The Dolores River flows from the high mountains above Lizard Head Pass to McPhee Reservoir. The Upper Dolores (Lizard Head Pass to the town of Dolores) is a freestone stream similar to the San Miguel, fed by a dozen cutthroat and brook trout streams descending from alpine basins. Willing fish and magnificent scenery make the Dolores a Colorado fly-fishing classic. Follow Hwy. 145 south from Telluride to Lizard Head Pass. The highway follows the river, and pullouts offer easy walking access to the stream. Near the top of Lizard Head Pass, the headwaters of the Dolores can offer great small-stream fishing fun as well. Bring very light tackle to handle the small waters.

adventureGUIDE | SUMMER2014

PARTING SHOT

Access: Easy, roadside Best Months: Pre-runoff and post-runoff to late fall Restrictions: Catch and release; flies and lures only Flies: Hare’s Ear, Prince Nymph, Parachute Adams The San Miguel River is the

SOUTH FORK OF THE SAN MIGUEL/ILIUM VALLEY

cutthroat. Pack your patience, however, as willows are thick along the banks in many areas. From Telluride, drive west on Hwy. 145 to the turn off to Ilium Valley to the south. Follow this road as it parallels the river. It’s a short, flat hike to the stream from pullouts along the road. Beware of private property. If you don’t know, ask.

AD INDEX

Access: Easy, streamside Best Months: Year-round Restrictions: Catch and release;

SAN MIGUEL RIVER/ PLACERVILLE TO NORWOOD BRIDGE

region’s only un-dammed, free flowing river, and fishing it offers a new challenge every day. The fishing can range from outstanding to very difficult. Hatches of caddis, stoneflies, mayflies, and midges alternate, so stop at a local fly shop for advice about what’s happening on the water. The fishing picks up in early- to mid-summer, after the runoff. Rainbows are most common, with browns and cutthroats less so. Heavy rains can easily dirty the water, making the river unfishable at times. The river is easily accessed from turnouts along Hwy. 145 heading northwest from Placerville to the Norwood bridge.

SUMMER CALENDAR

UNCOMPAHGRE AT PA-CO-CHU-PUK

flies and lures only Flies: Midge Nymphs, Copper Johns, Wooly Buggers Perhaps the best place to fish on the Uncompahgre River is below the dam at Ridgway State Park. The tail water fishery, Pa-co-chu-puk (Ute for Cow Creek), has been rehabilitated with boulder placements, log anchors and other features that provide excellent habitat for fish. This section of the river can be fished year round for goodsized rainbows, browns and cutthroat (stocked and wild). The mile and a half of river holds some large trout, with summer and fall consistent with daily mayfly hatches. From Ridgway, drive north on Hwy. 550 for approximately 7 miles. Look for the Pa-co-chupuk entrance on the west side of the road.

GET OUT

Access: Easy Best Months: Summer only Restrictions: Catch and release; flies and lures only Flies: Caddis, Mayfly The Cimarron River, a major tributary to the Gunnison River, offers excellent fishing for rainbow, cutthroat and brook trout. Much of the Lower Cimarron is private, but the bottom three miles, starting at the confluence of the Gunnison, are open to public fishing. Both the Middle Fork and the West Fork feature good access from the road; to access much of the East Fork, you’ll need to hike a streamside (TR 228) trail. The Forks offer solitude, scenery and fun action on dry flies. Though Caddis and Mayflies work well, don’t overlook big attractor patterns in mid to late summer. Access the river via a drive up County Road 10, Owl Creek Pass, about two miles north of Ridgway. This road becomes Forest Road 858, which drops down the east side of the West Fork of the Cimarron to Silver Jack Reservoir.

FOOD & DRINK

fishing

Get Wet!

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CONTENTS GEAR

ANIMAS RIVER

Section: Westwater Trip Length: 17-40 miles Season: May-September Difficulty: Class III, IV (V in high water) Westwater is a classic short river trip, where rafters are treated to spectacular sandstone and granite canyon walls, side canyon exploration opportunities and sandy beaches. Westwater Canyon is located midway between Grand Junction and Moab. Two-day trips with overnight camping are the most common, but the Bureau of Land Management does issue permits for a 17mile, one-day trip to a limited number of outfitters. Eleven Class III and IV+ rapids on the route include Funnel Falls, The Steps, Last Chance and Skull in the narrow Black Granite Gorge. Watch out for the Room of Doom!

GREEN RIVER

Section: Gunnison Gorge Trip Length: 14 miles Season: April through October Difficulty: Class I, II, III, IV The Gunnison River, in the Gunnison Gorge, offers a technical and remote whitewater experience for rafters, kayakers, and canoeists. The trip can vary widely, depending on time of year and flow from dam releases and winter snowpack. Expect high releases of 2,000 to 10,000 cfs in late May and early June. Summer flows, according to the Bureau of Land Management can range from 300 cfs in low water years to 2,000-plus cfs during big water years. At flows below 800 cfs, the Gorge is highly technical and is not recommended for rafts over 12 feet in length. The geology, wildlife and remote feel of this 1-3 day river trip is one of the best in the state.

SAN MIGUEL RIVER Section: Placerville to Naturita Power Plant Trip Length: 7 and 14 miles Season: May to July Difficulty: Class II, III The San Miguel River, a major tributary of the Dolores River, starts high in the San Juan Mountains above Telluride.

UNCOMPAHGRE RIVER Section: Ridgway Town Run Trip Length: 3 miles Season: May to July Difficulty: Class II,III The Uncompahgre River flows down from the northwest San Juans, an area heavily impacted by mining, which helps give the river its greenish hue. The Unc flows through Ouray and Ridgway before joining the Gunnison River at the town of Delta. The Ridgway Town Run is a short but sweet rock-hopping adventure through some nice parklands, as well as some private land. Put in at Rollins Park in downtown Ridgway. Beware that the kayak park can form dangerous keeper holes at the right water levels. Beginner kayakers will want to put in below these features most of the time. Take out on the right at the County Road 24 bridge, or paddle out to the reservoir. Other runs are available near Ouray, including Tuffys Corner (historically Class V; a recent mudslide changed the section significantly).

adventureGUIDE | SUMMER2014

PARTING SHOT

Section: Desolation Canyon Trip Length: 84 miles Season: Early April through October Difficulty: Class I, II, III The Green River runs through northeast Utah from Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area near Vernal to Dinosaur National Monument, and on through rugged and remote

GUNNISON RIVER

It flows northwest, without any major falls or rapids until the Dolores, winding its way through red rock cliffs and alpine terrain. This trip is perfect for families and is convenient to Telluride, with a put-in just below Placerville (and another one closer to Norwood). The river carves through a spectacular canyon and the consistent flow of Class II and III rapids is entertaining and easy. The 14mile trip continues through the wilderness of Norwood Canyon. Wildlife along the San Miguel is plentiful.

AD INDEX

Section: Ruby/Horsethief Canyon Trip Length: 25 miles Season: May-September Difficulty: Class I, II The Ruby-Horsethief section of the Colorado River, from Loma, Colo., to Westwater, Utah, is a 25-mile stretch of mostly flatwater with sections of Class I and II. This section of the Colorado runs through beautiful red rock canyons and has many day hike opportunities offering both solitude and exploration. The Black Rock section is composed of rock known as Vishnu schist, which dates back about 1.7 billion years. This same rock, which geologists refer to as “an unconformity,” is exposed in certain sections of the Grand Canyon. There is an abundance of wildlife including great blue herons, bald eagles, peregrine falcons, mule deer, and desert bighorn sheep. Look up in old cottonwoods trees and you are likely to spot nests and eagles. Spring weather can be extremely variable,

COLORADO RIVER

landscape before joining with the Colorado River at Canyonlands National Park in southeastern Utah. The Desolation Canyon section is deeper than the Grand Canyon, and offers big sandy beaches, sparkling side streams, shady stands of cottonwoods and abundant wildlife. The rapids never exceed a Class III in this section and are suitable for a family trip.

SUMMER CALENDAR

Section: Cataract Canyon Trip Length: 96 miles or less Season: April-October Difficulty: Class III, IV, V Cataract Canyon, in spectacular Canyonlands National Park, offers a yin-yang combination of relaxed floating and exciting whitewater. The put-in is a few miles downstream from Moab. The first two or three days of the Cataract trip provide ample leisure time to enjoy the many cliff dwellings and petroglyphs from the ancient Anasazi Indian culture, with

COLORADO RIVER

with hot days followed by snow, followed by high winds, followed by cold rain. Summer days can be very hot and buggy, and there is little shade along the river. Rainstorms are usually short but somewhat violent. Summer nights are usually comfortable. Fall is the most consistent weather with warm days, cool nights, and infrequent rain.

GET OUT

COLORADO RIVER

opportunities to hike, swim, fish and shoot photos, as well. The whitewater begins 4 miles downstream from the confluence of the Green and Colorado rivers, deep within Canyonlands National Park. From here, 26 major Class IV and V rapids, with names like Little Niagara and Satan’s Gut, give rafters a wild ride before reaching the quiet waters of Lake Powell above Glen Canyon Dam. In the spring some Cataract rapids are larger than those in the Grand Canyon.

FOOD & DRINK

Section: Upper Trip Length: 26 miles Season: May to July Difficulty: Class III, IV, V The Animas River is located high in the snowcapped San Juan Mountains between Silverton and Durango. Its southward course begins at Mineral Creek just outside of the historic mining town of Silverton and parallels the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. The river drops, on average, 85 feet per mile as it courses through dozens of Class III and IV rapids, and numerous Class V rapids. The upper Animas River is an exceptional alpine rafting experience with outstanding whitewater, and scenery that includes abandoned cabins and spectacular views of the 13,000-foot-plus peaks. The river trip ends near the small town of Rockwood. Some outfitters have made special arrangements with the Durango and Silverton Railroad to shuttle rafters and equipment to Durango on the afternoon train.

FEATURE

rafting

C R E AT I V E C O N T E M P O R A R Y S E A S O N A L F A R E . Telluride Chamber Music Festival’s

EVENTS

AUGUST 7 – 17, 2014

Proprietor chef Chad Scothorn AUGUST 7 Picnic & Concert in Town Park AUGUST 8, 10, 15 & 17 Concerts at Sheridan Opera House

Tickets & Information:

Tickets available at Telluride Music Company (970) 728–9592

For more info, contact the Festival Office (970) 728–8686

In the Hotel Columbia 970.728.1292 make your online reser vation at www.cosmotellur ide .com

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hiking Jeep Tours

CONTENTS GEAR FEATURE

Time: Half-day Distance: 28 miles Difficulty: Moderate to

Time: 2-3 hours Distance: 18 miles (7 miles from Telluride to Imogene Pass) Difficulty: Moderate to difficult; high clearance 4WD Elevation: 13,114 feet From Telluride, start at the north end of Oak St. and turn right onto Tomboy Road. The dirt road climbs up and away from Telluride, with stunning views of town and the east end of the canyon, including Bridal Veil Falls. The road passes several waterfalls and goes through a small tunnel on its way to the historic mining town of Tomboy in Savage Basin, a 2,650-foot

Time: Half day Distance: 16.5 miles Difficulty: Moderate; high clearance 4WD Elevation: 11,850 feet On the way up to Clear Lake, there are outstanding views into Ice Lakes Basin (the name of the huge, spiky peak in front of you as you drive is Golden Horn). Take U.S. 550 two miles north out of Silverton and turn west, or left, onto South Mineral Road. From there, it is 3.8 miles to the Clear Lake junction. Turn right, and begin climbing steeply up the Clear Lake Road. You’re 9,750 ft. high at this point; you’ll switchback your way up 4.5 miles to Clear Lake, at 11,850 ft. Clear Lake lies directly below South Lookout Peak (13,357’). Be sure to bring your lawn chair and leave some time to hang out by the lake or take a

BLACK BEAR PASS RED MOUNTAIN PASS OURAY/SILVERTON TO TELLURIDE Time: 2-3 hours Distance: 12 miles Difficulty: Difficult – expert only; high clearance 4WD Elevation: 12,840 feet Black Bear Pass, usually open around the end of July, is a one-way jeep ride from Red Mountain Pass to Telluride. This pass is for expert drivers only. From Ouray, drive 13 miles south on U.S. 550, just past the summit of Red Mountain Pass. Turn right onto the well-marked trail. The road climbs steeply with many narrow, rocky places above tree line. It eventually flattens out in a high valley with lots of mining relics, but don’t be lulled into a false sense of security. An area called “The Steps” begins right after reaching the small stream, with the town of Telluride visible in the valley below. This is the point of no return. Past here, turning around is simply not an option. The road drops steeply along extremely tight switchbacks on the breathtaking descent into the valley, passing the 125foot Ingram Falls. The road becomes easier at the twoway intersection at the top of Bridal Veil Falls, leading down to Telluride.

adventureGUIDE | SUMMER2014

PARTING SHOT

ENGINEER PASS OURAY TO LAKE CITY

IMOGENE PASS TELLURIDE TO OURAY

CLEAR LAKE (SILVERTON)

stroll around it. If you’re a car camper, you’ll pass a couple of good sites to spend the night on the way up.

AD INDEX

Time: 1-1/2 hours Distance: 5 miles one way Difficulty: Easy; high clearance 4WD Elevation: 11,000 feet The ghost town of Alta, established in the mining boom of the 1870s, is on the National Register of Historic Places. Surrounded by Alta Lakes, the setting is pictureperfect. Drive 6 miles south of Telluride on Hwy. 145. Turn left onto Alta Lakes Road and stay on this main road for 4 miles to the town of Alta, an elevation gain of 1,700 feet. To reach the lakes and Gold

Time: 2 hours Distance: 4.2 miles to Gilpin Lake Difficulty: Easy to moderate; high clearance 4WD Elevation: 12,200 feet Take Hwy. 550 south out of Ouray for 1/4 mile to Canyon Creek Road and turn right. Continue past Camp Bird Mine, keeping right on the main road. A quarter mile from the intersection, the road makes a sharp right turn and runs along a ledge, widened by blasting. A cliff overhangs the road for a few hundred feet and only one vehicle can pass in one direction at a time through this section. Check the road ahead before starting. The road improves after the old Sneffels town site. Two miles from here turn right at a fork in the road to head into Yankee Boy (going left leads to Governor Basin). The road gets rockier and rougher, and, after about 1-1/4 miles, it climbs into an open basin. Beyond the basin the road continues about 3/4 mile to Gilpin Lake. The road to Yankee Boy is in good condition, but heavily traveled during the summer.

elevation gain. Make your way up the steep ascent over loose rock to Imogene Pass at 13,114 feet. Located here is Fort Peabody, constructed in 1904 by a local unit of the Colorado National Guard to prevent union miners from crossing during a labor strike. From the pass, it’s a steep downhill ride to Ouray, passing Yankee Boy Basin and Camp Bird. With no stops, expect this trip to take at least 2 hours. Stopping to take in the expansive views and exploration possibilities along the way will extend this trip to the better part of the day.

SUMMER CALENDAR

ALTA LAKES HWY. 145 TO ALTA AND ALTA LAKES (TELLURIDE)

YANKEE BOY BASIN HWY. 550 TO YANKEE BOY (OURAY)

difficult; high clearance 4WD Elevation: 12,805 feet From Ouray, drive south on Hwy. 550 for 3.7 miles. Look for the road on the left-hand side of the highway near a cascading waterfall and overlook. The road is well marked from here. It is rough right from the start, climbing along switchbacks through several mining sites to above tree line. Watch for “Oh Point,” located just past the intersection that leads to Cinnamon Pass to the right. Stay left to reach Engineer Pass. Good camping and fishing sites are abundant along the way, particularly once you pass Rose’s Cabin and the Empire Mine structure, about 14 miles into the trip. The road eventually comes out at Lake City.

GET OUT

Time: Half day Distance: 7.5 miles Difficulty: Easy; high clearance Elevation: 10,400 feet This is a beautiful drive with great views all around. Drive 3 miles west of Telluride, turn right on the airport road and drive 2 miles to the dirt road (Last Dollar Rd.) that forks north just before the airport. Follow this winding road through aspen stands and rolling terrain. Jeepers can turn left at Road 58P to descend down to Sawpit, west of Telluride, or continue on to Hwy.145 at Dallas Divide, where an inspiring panorama of mountain peaks awaits on the way to Ridgway, Ouray or Montrose.

King Basin, turn right at the town and follow the signs to Alta Lakes.

FOOD & DRINK

LAST DOLLAR ROAD TELLURIDE TO DALLAS DIVIDE

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CONTENTS

TELLURIDE AREA MATTERHORN

SUNSHINE

ALTA LAKES

RV park and campground, available for long-term and overnight, located between the towns of Ouray and Ridgway. Cabin also available. Fees Location: Between Ridgway and Ouray at 20725 Hwy. 550 Facilities: 11 sites, BBQ grills, full hookups, guest laundry, pull-throughs, tent sites, restrooms Contact: luvridgway@yahoo. com, 970/626-5383

KOA CAMPGROUND

DOWNVALLEY/ NORWOOD AREA

Camp in comfort in he heart of Ouray County in your RV, a tent or a cabin. Catch live music, and Texas mesquite smoked barbecue. There’s wifi, a playground and a hot tub as well. Fees Location: 3.5 miles north of Ouray at mile marker 98 on U.S. Hwy. 550. Facilities: RV sites, tent sites, cabins, pavilion Contact: koa.com/campgrounds/ouray/overview/, 970/325-4736

WOODS LAKE

MONTROSE

Scenic, lake-side sites on this

Large campground with sparse vegetation and incredible views; limited hiking and fishing. Fees Location: 6 miles east of Montrose on Hwy. 50. Follow signs to park entrance. Facilities: 102 sites, fire rings, picnic tables, vault toilets, water

SADDLEHORN CAMPGROUND, COLORADO NATIONAL MONUMENT Situated on a high bluff overlooking the cities of Fruita and Redlands, with several nearby trailheads. Fees Location: Near the Saddlehorn Visitor Center, 4 miles from the west entrance of the Colorado National Monument (near Fruita); open year-round Facilities: 80 sites, some pullthrough. Flush toilets, water, charcoal-only grill.

NORTH FRUITA DESERT In the heart of Fruita’s worldrenowned mountain biking, including the Kokopelli Trail system. No fees Location: On 18 Road approximately 12 miles north of Fruita in the heart of the single-track mountain bike trail system. Facilities: 35 sites, picnic tables,

Good for RVs, this campground also has a swim beach and playground, with access to fishing on the Colorado River. Walking distance to the Dinosaur Journey Museum. Fees Location: In the City of Fruita, ½ mile south of exit 19, off of I-70. Facilities: 63 sites, including 22 full hookups, 22 electric sites, 13 tent sites, and a group camping area. Visitor Center, bookstore, laundry, charcoal grills, flush toilets. Contact: 970/434-3388

MANCOS/MESA V E R D E / D U R A N G O MCPHEE RESERVOIR Located on the southern shore of the McPhee Reservoir, McPhee campground is nestled among pinyon, scrub oak and juniper; many sites have lake views. Fees Location: From Dolores, take State Rt. 145 west 1.5 miles to McPhee Reservoir sign (State Rt. 184). Turn right onto Rt. 184 and go 4.2 miles to another McPhee Reservoir sign (RD 25). Turn right onto RD 25 and go 0.3 miles to campground sign (Forest Rt. 271). Turn right onto Rt. 271 and go 2 miles to campground symbol sign (across from waste station). Facilities: 80 sites, picnic

MOREFIELD CAMPGROUND, MESA VERDE NATIONAL PARK Large campground located within the boundaries of Mesa Verde National Park. Fees Location: 30 miles east of Cortez on Hwy. 160 Facilities: 400 sites, including 15 full hookup RV sites (reservations required). Café, gas station, RV dumping station, coin-operated laundry, complimentary showers, gift shop, grocery store, picnic tables, benches, grills, flush toilets. Contact: Mesa Verde National Park 800/449-2288

JUNCTION CREEK CAMPGROUND, SAN JUAN NATIONAL FOREST Location: Five miles northwest of Durango. From Main Avenue, turn west on 25th St. Go 3.5 miles to the National Forest boundary, then 1.5 miles on Forest Rd. 171. Campground is on the left. Fees Facilities: 44 campsites, 14 with electrical hookups. Picnic tables, fire pits, vault toilets, pavilion, horseshoe pits, volleyball court. Contact: 877/444-6777 Numerous camping possibilities exist on Bureau of Land Management land throughout Colorado’s Western Slope. For maps and information, go to http:// www.blm.gov/co/st/en/BLM_Programs/recreation/Camping.html.

adventureGUIDE | SUMMER2014

PARTING SHOT

MIRAMONTE RESERVOIR

SOUTH RIM BLACK CANYON OF THE GUNNISON NATIONAL PARK

GRAND JUNCTION/ F R U I TA

JAMES M. ROBB COLORADO RIVER STATE PARK, FRUITA SECTION

Small campground nestled in a Ponderosa pine forest, on the shores of Jackson Gulch Reservoir. Various trails connect the two campgrounds and surround the lake. Fees Location: From Mancos, turn north on Hwy. 184 for 1/4mile, take CR 42 east approximately 4 miles to CR “N”. Take CR “N” west 1/2-mile to the park entrance. Facilities: 32 sites in two campgrounds, vault toilets, water, fire pits, picnic tables, dump station. Two yurts also available, $70/night, reservation required. Contact: Colorado State Parks 970/533-7065

AD INDEX

Great family campground, close to fishing at Woods Lake and many hiking trails. Fees Location: 21 miles SW of Telluride, up Fall Creek Rd. Facilities: 41 designated sites, toilets, fire rings Contact: U.S. Forest Service, 970/327-4261

Small, primitive but accessible campground in mixed aspens and evergreen forest at 9,500 feet on the east edge of the Plateau. Not far from trails into Rubideau Canyon Wilderness Study Area. No fees Location: West of Montrose 19.5 miles up Hwy. 90 from the point where W. Oak Grove Road turns to gravel. Facilities: 7 campsites, refurbished by volunteers with the Uncompahgre Project. Toilets; no water. Contact: U.S. Forest Service, 970/240-5400

Connected to miles of trails, this campground boasts mature trees and grassy campsites. Fees Location: Drive west on I-70 west from Grand Junction to Loma exit, then north onto Colorado Highway 139 for 6 miles to Q Road. Go west on Q Road for 1.2 miles, then turn north onto 11.8 Road for one mile to the park entrance. Facilities: 31 sites accommodating tents or RVs. Water, fire pits, dump-station, coin-operated hot showers, laundry. Contact: 970/858-7208

MANCOS STATE PARK

SUMMER CALENDAR

(open mid-June) These primitive sites border a high alpine lake popular for trout fishing. Stunning views; 11,000 foot elevation. No fees Location: 13 miles SE of Telluride on Hwy. 145; turn left at Alta Lakes road. 4x4 required from highway to campground. Facilities: Undesignated sites, one pit toilet. Contact: U.S. Forest Service, 970/327-4261

WEBER WESTRIDGE RV PARK & CAMPGROUND

IRON SPRINGS CAMPGROUND, UNCOMPAHGRE PLATEAU

BOOKCLIFF CAMPGROUND, HIGHLINE LAKE STATE PARK

GET OUT

Spectacular views of the Wilson Range, easy access to Telluride and Mountain Village. Full during Telluride festival weekends and holidays. Fees Location: 7 miles south of Telluride on Hwy. 145 Facilities: 14 sites, water, toilets Contact: U.S. Forest Service, 970/327-4261

Large campground with many site options. Access to large “beach” and kids’ playground. Fees Location: 5 miles north of Ridgway on Hwy. 550 Facilities: 268 sites, hookups, showers, restrooms, dump station, laundry, marina, food Contact: Colorado State Parks, 800/678-2267

Large, scenic campground set below Cimarron Ridge, located adjacent to lake, offering hiking, fishing and non-motorized boating. Fees Location: 20 miles east of Montrose on Hwy. 50, turn south on Cimarron Rd., approx. 22 miles to campground. Facilities: 60 sites, picnic tables, fire grates, vault toilets, water. 30-foot max vehicle size limit. Contact: U.S. Forest Service, 970/240-5400

tables, grills, flush toilets, hot showers, dump station, and some electric hook-ups. Contact: 877/444-6777

FOOD & DRINK

Quiet, pristine sites bordering small lake. No fees Location: 14 miles south of Telluride on Hwy. 145; turn left at entrance to Trout Lake. Priest Lake road is on the left. Facilities: Undesignated sites, pit toilet Contact: U.S. Forest Service, 970/327-4261

RIDGWAY RESERVOIR

SILVER JACK RESERVOIR

fire grates, vault toilets. Contact: BLM Grand Junction field office, 970/244-3000

FEATURE

PRIEST LAKE

R I D G W AY / O U R AY

Contact: National Park Service, 970/249-7036

GEAR

Well-maintained, often busy campground located between Ophir turnoff and Trout Lake (near San Bernardo). Fees Location: 10 miles south of Telluride on Hwy. 145 Facilities: 28 sites, 3 walk-in sites, 8 RV hooi-up sites, water, showers, toilets Contact: U.S. Forest Service, 970/327-4261

popular, 420-acre reservoir. No fees Location: 40 miles NW of Telluride, 18.5 miles SE of Norwood, up Lone Cone Rd. Facilities: Picnic sites, boat ramp, pit toilets, water Contact: CDOW, 970/247-0855

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CONTENTS

TELLURIDE WOODS LAKE

Distance: 8.5 miles Time: 2-3 hours Elevation Gain: 650 feet Difficulty: Moderate, with some technical sections Trail Type: Dirt road, single-track This ride, considered a “classic” of the extensive Kokopelli area rides (a 142-mile bike route connecting Grand Junction with Moab, Utah) is a good launching point for other rides in the area. There are many extension loops to make this more challenging, including Horsethief, Moore Fun and Steve’s Loop. From Grand Junction, take I-70 west to the Loma Exit (#15). Cross over the interstate to the south and turn right on the gravel road. Just short of the weigh station, turn left and follow the frontage road for about .5 mile until you come to a parking area.

PHIL’S WORLD Distance: 16 miles total, with shorter loop options Time: 2-5 hours Elevation: 6,200-6,500 feet Difficulty: Easy-Moderate Trail Type: Single-track The Phil’s World network of trails are located 4 miles outside of Cortez on Hwy. 160; turnoff is immediately past the Montezuma Fairgrounds. A regional favorite, this fast-rolling singletrack winds through pinyon and juniper forests and climbs a number of small mesas offering views of Mesa Verde, Sleeping Ute Mountain and the La Plata Mountains. BMX-style rollers and fast descents make this a popular destination for adrenaline-seeking mountain bikers.

SAND CANYON

Distance: 45 miles Time: 5-8 hours Elevation Gain: 6,000-7,000 feet Difficulty: Advanced, difficult Trail Type: Rugged and smooth dirt roads, single track, pavement (if riding Hwy. 550) Feeling burly? Check out the Molas Pass to Hotel Draw section of the Colorado Trail, north of Durango. From Durango Mountain Resort, you can either ride 20 miles up Hwy. 550 over Coal Bank Pass to Molas Pass, or park your car at Molas and start the ride from there. Access the Colorado Trail at Little Molas Lake (take a left), and then settle in for a long scenic day on the saddle. Spending most of your time near timberline, around 12,000 feet, you’ll enjoy wide-open, tundra riding past Jura Knob, Cascade Divide Road and then across Hermosa Park Rd. Look out for other bikers and hikers, and be aware that sections of the trail are quite steep. After 30 miles, the route hooks up with Hotel Draw on the left, located on Scotch Creek Road. To return to Durango Mountain Resort, hang a left on Hermosa Creek Rd. #578. Note:

Distance: 14 miles Time: Plan to spend the day Elevation: 2,900 ft. Difficulty: intermediate Trail Type: Single-track Sand Canyon is arguably the least explored of the trails around Cortez and offers perhaps the most solitude. The trail climbs the canyon on the way out, and can be done heading out or back or linked to West Canyon. It’s a good place to bring a lunch and spend the day not only riding but exploring tangential spur trails that contain hidden gems from the Ancients, like cliff dwellings. Be sure to leave time for the ride back out, though: it’s a challenging 4,700 feet. To get there, head north out of Highway 491 toward Shiprock, N.M. A few miles outside of Cortez you will come to a light and see a sign for Hovenweep National Monument. Look for County Road G and go west on it (a right-hand turn if you are coming from Cortez). Stay on this road for 12 miles and look for a sandstone parking lot on the right hand side of the road. Park and ride.

adventureGUIDE | SUMMER2014

PARTING SHOT

Distance: 40 miles Time: 2-3 hours Elevation Gain: Varies Difficulty: All abilities Trail Type: Single track and double track Ridgway Area Trails, or RAT, is a series of interconnected trails that can be accessed from Ridgway Town Park and stretch

Distance: 7 miles Time: 1-2 hours Elevation: 5,800-6,500 feet Difficulty: Advanced Trail Type: Challenging single track through deep arroyos and adobe hills. This is a stiff ride on steep hills and rocky terrain in the Peach Valley Recreation Area of the Gunnison Gorge National Recreation Area, north of Montrose and west of Black Canyon National Park. Turn east off Hwy. 50, one mile south of Olathe at Falcon Road. After three miles of paved road, join unpaved Peach Valley Road and follow the signs to the Eagle Valley Trail Head. Ride the Eagle Val-

KOKOPELLI AREA TRAILS: MARY’S LOOP

MOLAS PASS TO HOTEL DRAW

CORTEZ/DOLORES

AD INDEX

RAT TRAILS

PEACH VALLEY

Distance: 5.4 miles Time: 1.2 hours Elevation Gain: 578 feet Difficulty: Moderate Trail Type: Single-track Considered the “cornerstone” of the 18 Road Trails, Prime Cut/ Joe’s Ridge is comprised of fast single-track and can be combined with other loops in the area. From Grand Junction, drive west on I-70 to Fruita Exit (#19). From the off-ramp travel .1 mile, then go right to the roundabout. Continue straight through the roundabout, travel 2 blocks and turn left on Maple Street. Travel 4 miles north on Maple St. (17 1/2 Rd). Turn right at N. 3/10 Rd., travel .5 mile to 18 Rd. Go north on 18 Rd for 7.5 miles to a parking area on the left.

Distance: 15 or 30 miles Time: 1-2.5 hours Elevation Gain: 280 feet max. Difficulty: Easy-Moderate Trail Type: Paved road A great introduction to riding in the Animas Valley, for road or mountain bikers. Leave Durango’s Main Ave. at North City Market on 32nd Street, heading due east to a stop sign. Turn Left onto CR 250 all the way to Bakers Bridge. This route takes you up the east side of the Animas River Valley. You can cut this short by turning at Trimble lane and crossing Hwy. 550 to CR 203. Take a left and pedal back to town. If you go the long route, the road goes north and curves around a KOA campground shortly after Bakers bridge and meets up with Hwy. 550. Ride on the shoulder until you get to Hermosa. Turn right on County Road 203 just past the railroad tracks.

SUMMER CALENDAR

R I D G W AY

MONTROSE

FRUITA’S 18 ROAD TRAILS: PRIME CUT TO JOE’S RIDGE/ KESSEL RUN

ANIMAS LOOP

The ride may be shortened by returning to Coal Bank Pass via Jura Knob, or you can ride the Bolem Pass to Hotel Draw section. A map is always recommended.

GET OUT

Distance: 15 miles Time: 2-3 hours Elevation Gain: 970 feet Difficulty: Intermediate Trail Type: 85% single track A 15-mile ride with a little bit of everything. The ascent is short, just 970 feet. But – as the ride is reached from the top of the Gondola station – the descent is a thrilling 2,766 ft. In between, there is rolling crosscounty, a few chugs uphill, and what has been described as “some of the flowing-est downhill on the mountain.” The trail opens in early July due to elk calving. Bikers use these trails, so beware. The high point is 10,941 ft.; beware also afternoon thunderstorms.

Distance: 8 miles one way (requires shuttle) Time: 2-3 hours Elevation Gain: 1,788 feet (8,000-10,084 feet) Difficulty: Advanced, expert Trail Type: Single track The most popular section of this remote, high alpine ride brings riders from Ridgway to Ouray via Elk Meadows. Driving from town, take a left on Amelia St. and stay right on CR5. Go approximately 7 miles and park at the pull off before the cattle guard. The ride travels over rugged single track, with a fair amount of climbing and great views. The descent into Ouray is very steep.

GRAND JUNCTION/ F R U I TA

DURANGO

FOOD & DRINK

GENTLEMEN’S TRAIL

DALLAS TRAIL

ley/Sunset Rocks/Moonlight Mesa trails for a primitive highdesert loop. Trails are two-way; you may encounter horses, hikers or dirt-bikers. In wet weather, the adobe turns to glue.

FEATURE

Distance: 19 miles Time: 2-3 hours Elevation Gain: 1,900 feet (max. elev. 9,420 feet) Difficulty: Beginner-Intermediate Trail Type: Dirt road The start of this ride is at Fall Creek Rd., 13.6 miles down valley from Telluride on Hwy. 145, just past Sawpit. Where Fall Creek Road leaves Hwy. 145, ride south, cross the San Miguel River, and follow a good dirt road for 4 miles to an intersection with signs pointing to Woods Lake and Wilson Mesa. Continue right to Woods Lake, following the river as the road climbs for 3 miles. Stay left at the turn-off to Norwood, and continue to climb, more steeply now, to Woods Lake. There is a day-use area at the lake, as well as a campground. Return the way you came.

to the Weaver Trail System, in Dennis Weaver State Park, the Angel Ridge trails, and the high-alpine Dallas Divide Trail (see below). These are mostly lower-elevation trails; if the weather is surly at 10,000 feet or so in Telluride or Mountain Village, it could well be sunny down in Ridgway’s 7,000-ft. pinon-and-juniper. The routes wind for 40 miles through Dennis Weaver Park and to the northeast, across 550 to County Road 10. From there it’s a short distance to 10B. Hang a left; more trails continue on from there. See the map on the RAT website at ridgwaytrails.com.

GEAR

biking

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CONTENTS GEAR

R I D G W AY A N D O U R AY

TELLURIDE AND OPHIR OPHIR WALL AND CRACKED CANYON Those seeking traditional climbing will enjoy the oldschool ambiance of the Ophir Wall and Cracked Canyon. Both are located 8 miles south of Telluride at the entrance to the Ophir Valley.

FALLS WALLS AND PIPELINE WALL

ILIUM VALLEY

Another great spot for moderate climbing is the Pool Wall Alcove. Directly across from the Ouray Hot Springs Pool, look for a trail that leads into a hidden alcove on the left side of the wall. Nestled in this spot there are about six high-quality routes, ranging from 5.6 to 5.9. All climbs are bolted sport climbs and accessible only by leading up. Above the main Pool Wall and to the right, there are dozens of 5.10 and above routes.

Five miles west of Telluride, Ilium Valley has an array of boulders of varying difficulty.

ROTARY PARK CRAG

There is excellent bouldering at the mine in the west end of the Telluride Valley.

ALPINE ROUTES There are a number of alpine rock routes on the peaks surrounding Telluride. Lizard Head, the prominent volcanic plug that marks Lizard Head Pass, is the most well known. Telluride and Ophir climbs, courtesy Lance Waring

CLAY CREEK Good climbing close to Telluride, in a pinon and juniper forest, with relatively easy access. The routes are 30-to-60-feet long, of sandstone. Most are bolted; many have anchors. At the bottom of the Norwood Hill, take Forest Service Road 510 (the Sanborn Park Road) 4.2 miles. Park at a prominent pullout on the left; a good trail leads to the crag. The first section of cliffs appears in 10 minutes. For much more beta on this area, the first, and arguably the best, guide is The Wild Wild West: Rock Climbing in the Wild West End

BLACK CANYON NATIONAL PARK The vertical walls of the Black Canyon hold dozens of traditional big-wall climbs, all of them advanced, multi-pitched climbs with difficulty ratings from 5.8 to 5.13. Some require aid. These are serious climbs. The NPS website warns: “Being benighted due to underestimating a route is not cause for a rescue at the Black Canyon.” The North and South Chasm Walls see the majority of climbing. The depth here is around 1,800 feet, and the canyon is at its narrowest, just 1,100 feet across from rim to rim. The most complete guidebook is Black Canyon Climbs by Robbie Williams. A free permit is required and can be obtained at either the South Rim Visitor Center or the North Rim Ranger Station.

GRAND JUNCTION OTTO’S ROUTE Otto’s Route is found on the northwest face of a 450-foot high sandstone tower known as Independence Monument, located in Colorado National

CASTLE VALLEY (MOAB) CASTLETON TOWER The Wingate Sandstone Castleton tower is perhaps the most popular desert spire climb in the Canyonlands region, with its Kor-Ingalls Route considered one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. There are routes on its north, west and south faces, offering both free and fixed climbs rated 5.9 to 5.11. From Moab, drive 10 miles down Rte. 128 along the Colorado River. Turn right on Castleton Rd. and drive 4.7 miles to a dirt road parking area on the left. Follow the signs and obvious trails to the different routes.

adventureGUIDE | SUMMER2014

PARTING SHOT

A quick 30-second walk from the parking lot at Ouray Rotary Park, Rotary Park Crag is a great area for easy and hard climbs.

WEST END OF TELLURIDE VALLEY

NORWOOD

MONTROSE

AD INDEX

POOL WALL ALCOVE

Fine Dakota Sandstone and a good selection of routes, many of which are bolted. There are also a few traditional and mixed climbs. The crag sits high on Sawtooth Ridge. From the summit, there are good views of the San Juans and the La Sal Mountains in Utah. To access AEC from Telluride, take State Highway 145 west toward Norwood and continue on to Naturita. Just past Naturita, turn left on Highway 90 and follow it about eight miles up the road to EE22 Road. Make a right onto EE22, and stay on it until you spot a prominent buttress on the hill (there are many parking spots at the base). The climbing routes are a 10-to-15 minute hike up a series of switchbacks to the cliff.

Monument near Grand Junction. The climb is named after John Otto, the Colorado National Monument’s first superintendent, and the route’s first ascender, in 1911, when he created a handpounded pipe ladder all the way to the summit, where he placed an American flag. It’s a classic multi-pitch route for advanced lead-climbers, who know how to place gear, route find, and set up rappels. The route is varied on mostly solid rock, and the views of the surrounding red rock are spectacular. Rated 5.9, the climb ascends 450 feet in four pitches. Monument Canyon Trail serves as the approach trail, which begins on the south end of the west entrance parking lot. Expect crowds on weekends. Double ropes are suggested for a quick rappel, as are helmets in case of rock fall.

SUMMER CALENDAR

If you are a sport climber, head to the Falls Walls and Pipeline Wall at the end of the Telluride Valley. You may also want to hike to the Sesame Street area in upper Bear Creek.

ATOMIC ENERGY CRAG

of Southwestern Colorado by the late, legendary Charlie Fowler and his co-author, Damon Johnston. Fowler and Johnston also wrote Telluride Rocks, the only detailed guide to rock climbing near town, with particulars on the Ophir Wall, Cracked Canyon, Telluride Edge and other choice climbing sites.

GET OUT

For families and beginners, Roadside Distraction is a great place to climb. Perched right above the first hairpin on County Rd 361, Roadside has a bunch of fun routes from 5.4 to 5.11. At the first hairpin turn on the Camp Bird Road, park alongside the ATV trailers and follow the obvious steep track along the fence. When you reach a large rock with a telephone pole on top, look for an easy trail on the right side that accesses the anchors on top of the climbs. Take care accessing the bolted anchors as they are just below the lip of the crag; an extra rope to protect yourself can be quite handy. The SW facing slab has a few different easy climbs, while climbs on the NW face are steep and difficult.

N AT U R I TA

FOOD & DRINK

ROADSIDE DISTRACTION

All climbs must be led to set up, and the rock quality isn’t as good as some other areas; but it’s close to the car and nonclimbers can picnic and watch. There are about five good routes rated less than 5.9.

FEATURE

climbing

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CONTENTS

DEVIL’S THUMB GOLF CLUB

BLACK CANYON GOLF CLUB

THE BRIDGES GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB 2500 Bridges Circle Montrose, Colo., 970/252-1119 The Bridges features a Nicklaus Design championship golf course. The 7,100 yard par 71 course features 10 lakes and numerous water features crossed by approximately 17 distinctive golf cart and walking

R I D G W AY DIVIDE RANCH AND CLUB 51 Divide Ranch Circle Ridgway, Colo., 970/626-5284 The mature, award-winning golf course that’s the centerpiece for Divide Ranch and Club offers 7,039 yards of challenging play. It also offers some of the most extraordinary views imaginable. Tee off at the foot of the San Juans, with Mount Sneffels rising to the south, and then you drive onto the magnificent mesa, where juniper, piñon and ponderosa pine line the holes.

DURANGO HILLCREST GOLF COURSE

TELLURIDE

2300 Rim Drive Durango, Colo., 970/247-1499 Hillcrest Golf Course is set atop a scenic mesa overlooking the town of Durango. Its 18-hole course is surrounded by the beauty and tranquility of the Southern Colorado Rockies.

TELLURIDE GOLF CLUB

THE DALTON RANCH GOLF CLUB

136 Country Club Dr. Mountain Village, Colo., 970/728-2606 This par 70, 6,574 yard, 18-hole

589 County Road 252 Durango, Colo., 970/247-8774. The Dalton Ranch Golf Club has been called “The Sparkling Jew-

e l y t S y g g o

el” of the Four Corners, and its spectacular Animas River Valley setting makes for a memorable round of golf. The course plays from four different sets of tees, ranging in lengths from 5,500 to 7,000 yards. Slope and rating information available.

GUNNISON DOS RIOS GOLF CLUB 501 Camino Del Rio Gunnison, Colo. 970/641-1482 Dos Rios Golf Club challenges golfers, while providing a relaxing, picturesque backdrop. Test your accuracy with its fairways, water hazards and sand traps; this course has everything needed to challenge and improve your game.

MOAB MOAB GOLF CLUB 2705 E. Bench Road Moab, Utah, 435/259-6488 The Moab Golf Club, open since 1960, is the embodiment of Utah golf, with dramatic landscapes to the east and subtle elevation changes throughout. From the back tees, play to 6,819 yards for a par of 72. Amenities include pro shop, snack bar and driving range.

SUMMER CALENDAR

1350 Birch St. Montrose, Colo., 970/249-4653 Golfers of any skill level will appreciate the design and challenge of this unique public course, located in the heart of Montrose. The par 34 front 9 is a “park style’’ tree-lined course with a pond water feature, while the back 9 “links style,”

699 Cobble Dr. Montrose, Colo., 970/240-9542 This 18-hole links-style golf course located in Montrose measures 6,982 yards from the back tees and 5,133 yards from the front tees. The majestic San Juan Mountains provide a beautiful backdrop for a wonderful golf experience. With ten lakes and a creek that winds through the entire course, a ball in the fairway is a must. The greens are large, with tremendous undulations. Hitting the ball on the correct side of the flag makes for much easier birdie putts. The back nine is unusual in that it offers three par 3’s, three par 4’s and three par 5’s.

mountain resort course is surrounded by the highest concentration of 14,000 foot mountains in the United States. Keeping your eye on the ball and off the towering peaks surrounding the Telluride Golf Club may be your toughest challenge when teeing off at this breathtaking course, perched 9,500 feet above sea level. The Telluride Golf Club has been a certified Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary since 2002, meeting strict criteria for water conservation, habitat protection, biodiversity conservation, water quality management and reduced chemical use.

GET OUT

MONTROSE

THE LINKS AT COBBLE CREEK

bridges (giving The Bridges at Black Canyon its name). Water comes into play on 14 of the course’s 18 holes. The design of the course features a traditional style that also incorporates native plantings, rock features and waterfalls. Multiple tees will vary the length of the course from 5,300 to 7,100 yards.

FOOD & DRINK

9900 Devil’s Thumb Road Delta, Colo., 970/874-6262 Nestled among the adobe hills at the southern base of the majestic Grand Mesa lies Devil’s Thumb Golf Club, named for the rock formation that looms above it. “The Thumb” stands alone as a sentinel watching over the Grand Mesa, the Uncompahgre Plateau, the confluence of the Uncompahgre and the Gunnison River of the Black Canyon Gunnison National Park, and the small town of Delta. Designer Rick Phelps, described this challenging 18hole course as a “prairie style” golf course.

par 36 course features smaller brush, deeper bunkers and longer fairways.

FEATURE

D E LTA

GEAR

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23-September 30 Photo Exhibit: Autumn in Ouray County – Ouray County Historical Museum, ouraycountyhistoricalsociety.org How the Local Mountains Got Their Names – Photos of nearby peaks, with detailed descriptions of how they got their names; Ouray County Historical Museum 23-26 Mountainfilm Festival – The thoughtful adventurer’s festival, 36th annual edition; mountainfilm.org Southern Ute Bear Dance and Pow Wow – Sky Ute Fairgrounds, Ignacio; Southernute-nsn.gov 24-26 Iron Horse Bicycle Classic – In and around Durango, over a dozen bike races for all abilities and proclivities; ironhorsebicycleclassic.com 25-September 1 Bar D Chuckwagon – Durango Old West music and comedy show, plus barbecue supper, Memorial Weekend through Labor Day; bardchuckwagon.com 26 Compassion 5k Run/Walk – The first race of Ouray’s running season, from Fellin Park; 7:30 a.m.-10 a.m. sabrinabutler@mac.com 29-August 14 Montrose Main in Motion – Thursday-night downtown celebration; facebook.com/MaininMotion

Come Fly With Us...

31 Hayes Carll in Concert – Ouray’s Wright Opera House re-opens following renovation. First up: Texas singer-songwriter Carll, 7:30 p.m. thewrightoperahouse.org Palisade Brewery 4-Year Anniversary Party – Musical guests Groundscore Bluegrass entertain; palisadebrewingcompany.com RACC San Juan Shuffle – Visit a variety of Ridgway restaurants and bars to sample local specialties, 3-8 p.m.; tickets ($20) at Ridgway Visitors Center and Ridgway Office Supply. 31-June 1 Montrose Arts & Crafts Festival – Downtown Montrose; shopmontrose.com

JUNE 1 ThunderMountain 5K/10K/Walk/Run – Departs from Cedaredge; runningintheusa.com 1-September 1 Mountain Village Sports – Mountain biking, road biking, hiking, bouldering, disc golf, fishing and platform tennis, all available through the summer. See the website for complete information. Townofmountainvillage.com

... Just minutes from Telluride, Ouray and Montrose

San Juan Balloon Adventures

(970) 626 5495 www.sanjuanballoon.com

Photo by Paul D deBerjeois

...over the Ridgway Valley...

2-6 Ridgway Railroad Museum Work Week – Spend a day working on the Rolling Stock at the Ridgway Railroad Museum or on Red Mountain Pass reconstructing the Guston Depot; 9 a.m.-4 p.m. ridgwayrailroadmuseum.org

4 Sideways –The film that made merlot infamous, plus a wine tasting, to raise funds for the Wright Opera House’s movie program. At the Wright; 7 p.m. thewrightoperahouse.org 5-7 Ute Mountain Roundup Rodeo – Eightyfour years of buckin’ and ropin’; in Cortez. utemountainroundup.org 5, 12, 19, 26 Mountain Air Music Series – Free Thursday night concerts in Ouray’s Fellin Park; 6-9 p.m. 6-7 Colorful Colorado Car, Truck & Rod Show – The 19th annual event; gather on 1st St. South, Montrose, at 5 p.m. blackcanyonclassics.com The Odd Couple – Neil Simon’s comedy on stage at the Wright Opera House; 7-9 p.m. thewrightoperahouse.org 6-8 Pagosa Folk & Bluegrass Festival – Reservoir Hill, downtown Pagosa Springs. Fairsandfestivals.net Animas River Days – Annual celebration of the river in Durango, including a kayak slalom race, boater-cross, Surf the Animas Last Paddler Standing, 4CRS’ Downriver Kayak race and SUP race, more; animasriverdays.org 6-October 3 First Friday Stroll – Monthly arts celebration in downtown Montrose; visitmontrose.com 7 Thelma & Louise Half Marathon – As the title implies, for women only; out of Moab. Marathons.ahotu.com Steamworks Animas Valley Half Marathon – A Durango race; marathons.ahotu.com 7-8 Telluride Balloon Festival – Locations in Town Park and on Main Street. Visittelluride.com Dinosaur Train – Based on the hit PBS TV Series, Jim Henson’s Dinosaur Train is back for a third year at the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad; durangotrain.com 7-13 Ride the Rockies – Classic intrastate mountain bike ride on good paved roads. This year the race departs Boulder and veers west via Winter Park and Steamboat Springs before heading east through Edwards, Breckenridge and Keystone en route to Golden; Ridetherockies.com Ridgway MoonWalk – Monthly outing tours local artists’ spaces. This month’s theme: Cowboys and Cowgirls; 6-9 p.m. Facebook. com/ridgwaymoonwalk 9-20 Telluride Academy Adventure Session 1 – Day programs, overnight adventures, adventure travel, artistic adventures; tellurideacademy.org 12-15 Pioneer Days – The 38th annual event, in Crawford; crawfordcounty.org 13-15 Snowmass Mammoth Fest – Formerly the Snowmass Chili Pepper and Brew Fest; in Snowmass Village. Fairsandfestivals.net

CONTENTS

14 Highline Hustle Sprint Triathlon – Race from Fruita; runningintheusa.com Nate Soules Memorial Fun Run – Run 13.1 miles or 4 miles; runningintheusa.com Ridgway Ranch Rodeo & Opal Moon Barn Dance – Mutton busting, kids’ barrel racing, mounted shooting and more at the Ouray County Fairgrounds and at the end of it all, a dance at White Stone Barn (411 Co. Rd. # 12, Ridgway); 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Highline Hustle Sprint Triathlon – In Grand Junction: a 500-meter sprint in Highline Lake, 16-mile bike road race, and a 3-mile trail run. For all abilities. Gjcity.org Radney Foster in Concert – Texas singersongwriter plays the Wright Opera House; 7:30 p.m.

23-July 1 Telluride Academy Adventure Session 2 – Day programs, overnight adventures, adventure travel, artistic adventures; tellurideacademy.org

15 Ridgway Heritage Days – Ute Indians – Fire department pancake breakfast, 8 a.m.; allday blacksmithing, horseshoes, branding demonstrations, music. The Ute Mountain Indians perform at 2 p.m.

18 Mountain Village Summer Concert Series Begins – Jazz to rock to funk and everything in between. Most Wednesday nights, Sunset Plaza, 6-8 p.m. townofmountainvillage.com

19-22 Telluride Bluegrass Festival – The 41st annual event; recent lineups have included Mumford and Sons, Emmylou Harris and the Decemberists. In Telluride Town Park. Bluegrass.com/Telluride 20-21 Annual Fun in the Sun Durango Arts & Crafts Fair – The 7th annual event; Durango.org

JULY 1 Evening of History – Jerry Frank on Making Rocky Mountain National Park an Environmental Treasure; Ouray Community Center, 7:30 p.m. 3-6 Park to Park Arts & Crafts Festival – Town Park and Mary Fisher Park, Pagosa Springs; weekend includes fireworks, rodeo and a parade. Fairsandfestivals.net 4 Ourayce – Annual Ouray 10K, beginning and finishing and City Hall; ouraycolorado.com Cortez Burst Triathlon – Competitive and recreational routes; corteztri.com Silverton Fourth of July Celebration – Blue Ribbon Fun Run (see listing below), parade, Fire Departments’ Water Fight, International Rhubarb Festival & Silverton Brass Band Concert, Ducky Derby, theatre group productions, fireworks after dark. Silvertoncolorado.com

>>>

PARTING SHOT

21-22 Gunnison River Festival – Rip-roaring rapids and lighthearted outdoor recreation in Gunnison’s White Water Park; colorado.com

28 Ridgway River Festival – The seventh annual event, featuring all-age river races on the Uncompaghre; Rollans Park, 9 a.m.-6 p.m. Wright Stuff Challenge – Cycling race out of Norwood; active.com Aspen Backcountry Marathon – A 26.2 mile trail run and 26.2 mile relay; runningintheusa.com

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21 Telluride Unearthed Field Trip: Uravan and Uravan Mining – Join the Telluride Historical Society and the Rimrocker Historical Society of Montrose County for a guided trip to Uravan, a war-era mining town, and to a historic mine. Telluridehistoricalmuseum.com San Juan Solstice 50 Mile Run – A trail run out of Lake City; runningintheusa.com

26-29 Telluride Wine Festival – Wine tastings, mixing cocktails and distilling, cooking demos with celebrity chefs, even a non-alcoholic beer and soda tasting. Telluridewinefestival.com

SUMMER CALENDAR

18-August 13 Market on the Plaza – Colorado-grown fruits and vegetables and arts & crafts; Mountain Village, Heritage Plaza, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. townofmountainvillage.com

25, 29, July 2, July 6 Telluride MusicFest: From Russia With Love II – Chamber musicians Trio Solisti, along with five guest performers, return with their second consecutive program of Russian music (so well-received was the first), to be held outside Telluride at the Mai home. Telluridemusicfest.com

GET OUT

17 Evening of History – Larry Meckel on San Juan Mountain geology; Ouray Community Center, 7:30 p.m.

26-29 Crested Butte Bike Week – World’s oldest mountain bike festival, includes the Chainless World Championships down Kebler Pass and into downtown (June 27); the Fat Tire 40 (June 28) and Central States Cup downhill and cross country races (June 28-29). KEEN Rippin Chix mountain bike camps for women are June 26-27. Bridges of the Butte townie tour, a 24-hour ride for individuals and teams: June 28-29.

FOOD & DRINK

14-15 Dinosaur Train – A ride for kids aboard the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge (see June 7-8 listing); durangotrain.com

24 Evening of History – Steve Baker on the Uncompahgre Valley Ute Project; Ouray Community Center, 7:30 p.m.

FEATURE

23 Bicycle Tour of Colorado in Ouray – Large, multi-day rider spends the night, “a fun event with lots of great energy.”

GEAR

Palisade Bluegrass and Roots Festival – Headliners include the Infamous Stringdusters, the Wood Brothers and the Sweetback Sisters; River Bend Park. Palisademusic.com

Blue Ribbon Fun Run/Walk 5K & 10 K – Silverton, Memorial Park; silvertonspecialevents.com Gothic to Crested Butte Run, Walk or Crawl 1/3 Marathon – The 46th annual event; rmbl.org Salute to America – Downtown Durango festivities, including a Kids to Kids flea market in Buckley Park; Durango.org Ouray Fourth of July Celebration – Parade, fireworks, wicked waterfights; ouraycountycolorado.org Telluride Fourth of July Celebration – Parade, picnic, kids games and events, fireworks display. Visittelluride.com The Rundola – Race from the Town of Telluride up the ski mountain to the ridge; telluridefoundation.org

11-13 The Ride Festival – Radio KOTO’s concert, third incarnation. Among the lineup: Joan Osborne, The Wood Brothers, Spoon. Ridefestival.com Annual Art on the Animas – The 23rd annual event, in Durango; Durango.org 15 Evening of History – Topic: Mesa Verde and the Ancestral Puebloans; Ouray Community Center, 7:30 p.m. 15-19 Mesa County Fair – Mesa County Fairgrounds, Grand Junction

5 Corkscrew Railroad Bed and Turntable Hike – Sponsored by the Ridgway Railroad Museum; 9 a.m. Call 970/325-4576 to register. Ouraycountyhistoricalsociety.org

16-19 Telluride Americana Music Fest and Songwriter Showcase – Three nights of music from singer-songwriters Holly Williams, Bruce Robison & Kelly Willis, Eric Bibb and others at the Sheridan Opera House. Tellurideamericana.com

5-13 Gunnison Cattlemen’s Days – The 114th year for this event, dubbed the Granddaddy of Colorado Rodeos; cattlemensdays.com

17-20 Deltarado Days – In Delta: a 5K race, parade, more at one the oldest summer celebrations in the state. Fairsandfestivals.net

7 Southern Utah National Parks Bike Tour – A seven-day event encompassing Zion, Bryce, Capitol Reef, and more. Bicycleadventures.com

18-20 Renaissance and Pirate Festival – Pagosa Springs; fairsandfestivals.net

7-13 Crested Butte Wildflower Festival – The annual event, from the city designated the “Wildflower Capital of Colorado.” Gunnisoncrestedbutte.com 7-18 Telluride Academy Adventure Session 3 – Day programs, overnight adventures, adventure travel, artistic adventures; tellurideacademy.org 7, 14, 21, 28 and August 4, 11, 18, 25 The Mousetrap – Murder comes to the Wright Opera House via this Agatha Christie thriller, the most-performed play in history. On stage Mondays through August; 7:30 p.m. thewrightoperahouse.org 8 Evening of History – Don Paulson on Historic Grocery Stores of Ouray County; Ouray Community Center, 7:30 p.m. 11-12 Hardrock Hundred Mile Endurance Run – A grueling 100-mile trail run through the San Juans: 33,992 ft. of elevation gain over an average elevation of 11,186 ft. (the high point is 14,048-ft. Handies Peak). Hardrock100.com Caddis Cup Fly-Fishing Tournament – Fish the award-winning waters of Gunnison County; benefits the Crested Butte Land Trust. cblandtrust.org 12 Moonlight Miles 10K and Half Marathon – Grand Junction runs; gjcity.org 12 Guided Cemetery Walk Tour – Meet at Cedar Hill Cemetery, Ouray County, at 9 a.m.; call 970/325-4576 to register. Ouraycountyhistoricalsociety.org

elevation gain). gbbiketour.com Kim Richey in Concert – Two-time Grammy-nominated singer-songwriter at the Wright; 7:30 p.m. thewrightoperahouse.org 27-August 2 Montezumielda County Fair – In Cortez 29 Evening of History – Westward Ho: History of the Wagon Roads in Our Part of Colorado; Sherbino Theater, Ridgway, 7:30 p.m. 30 Jimmy Cliff in Concert – Reggae legend plays the Telluride Conference Center; 9 p.m. sheridanoperahouse.com

AUGUST 1-3 Cortez Rally Hot Air Balloon Festival – In Cortez. Mesaverdecountry.com Telluride Jazz Festival – Now in its 37th year: intimate format, superb music, invigorating alpine. In Town Park. Telluridejazz.com 1-9 54th Annual Artists’ Alpine Holiday – A national juried show in Ouray; this year’s judge is plein air landscape artist (and fourthgeneration Coloradoan) Cheryl St. John. Ouraycolorado.com 3-9 Delta County Fair – In Hotchkiss.

hawkenarts.org 11 Ouray Hot Springs Pool Closed for Maintenance 14-17 Ouray Canyon Festival – Rappel workshops, canyoning adventures, basic first aid skills, more; under the big tent in Fellin Park (and in Ouray’s canyons). ouraycanyonfestival.net True West Railfest – The Durango Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad teams up for a second year with True West magazine; durangotrain.com Palisade Peach Festival – Dating to the late 1800s and celebrating “the pride of Colorado,” Palisade’s famous peaches; Palisadepeachfest.com 15-17 Great Western Rocky Mountain Brass Band Festival – Silverton School Gym. 15-19 Telluride Mushroom Festival – All things mycology. Telluridemushroomfest.org 18-24 USA Pro Cycling Challenge – Aspen to Mt. Crested Butte, Gunnison to Monarch Mountain, individual time trail in Vail, more. Race concludes on the Front Range; usaprocyclingchallenge.com

19 Silverton Barbershop Music Festival – Silverton School Gym. Kendall Mountain Run – Run up the ski mountain in Silverton

4-15 Telluride Academy Adventure Session 4 – Day programs, overnight adventures, adventure travel, artistic adventures; tellurideacademy.org

19-26 Shakespeare in the Park – The 22nd year, in Town Park. This year’s production: the comedy Twelfth Night, telluridetheatre.org

5 Evening of History – The History of the Sherbino Family and the Sherbino Theater, at the Sherb; 7:30 p.m.

19-27 Montrose County Fair and Rodeo – Annual celebration of agriculture and Western heritage; fairsandfestivals.net

6 Geology Field Trip – Ouray County Historical Society tour; 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Details TBA. Ouraycountyhistoricalsociety.org

23 Silverton Alpine Marathon & 50K – Start & finish at Memorial Park. Silvertonalpinerunning.com

20-26 San Miguel Basin Fair – in Norwood.

6-10 La Plata County Fair – At La Plata County Fairgrounds in Durango; co.laplata.co.us

23-24 24 Hours in the Sage – Thirteen-mile bike loops from, and back to, the Gunnison KOA Campground; 24hoursinthesage.com.

21-August 1 Telluride Academy Adventure Session 4 – Day programs, overnight adventures, adventure travel, artistic adventures; tellurideacademy.org 22 Evening of History – The People Behind the Mountaintop and Grandview Mines; Ouray Community Center, 7:30 p.m. 22-27 Durango Fiesta Days – Originally known as the Spanish Trails Fiesta in the early 1930s, then the Navajo Trail Fiesta; Rodeo events, pie auction, street dance, and a Fiesta Days Parade. durangofiestadays.com 25-27 Mancos Colorado Days – The 55th annual event, in Boyle Park. Fairsandfestivals.net 26 Grand Mesa 100 – A 100-mile trail run, 50mile trail run, 37.5-mile trail run; gjcity.org Grin & Barrett Black Canyon Buttkicker Charity Ride – Rides of 75, 112, and 155 miles in length (this one with an 8,000-ft.

7-17 Telluride Chamber Music Festival – Over 40 years of music from esteemed visiting musicians, including San Francisco Ballet concertmaster – and Festival founder – Roy Malan on violin. Telluridechambermusic.org 8 Telluride Top Chef – Annual cook off in Mountain Village benefitting the One-to-One San Miguel Mentoring Program. Onetoonetelluride.org/topchef 8-10 Hardrockers Holidays – The annual hard rock mining celebration and competition; facebook.com/hardrockersholidays. 9 Mount Sneffels Marathon and Half Marathon – Exceptionally scenic races on gravel roads with only a slight elevation increase; includes a kids’ fun run. The Marathon departs Ouray at 6:30 a.m., Half-Marathon at 7:30 a.m.; marathons.ahotu.com Ridgway Arts & Crafts Rendezvous – Venerable event in Town Park; 9 a.m.-5 p.m. wee-

20, 22-23 San Juan Chamber MusicFest – Famous music for the masses: an instructive Classical Café at the 4H Event Center and concerts for all ages at the Wright Opera House. ocpag.org 22 KOTO Doo Dah Festival – The radio station tradition; koto.org

26-31 Annual 1-2-3-6 Day Run & 1,000 Mile Challenge – silverton1000.com 28-September 1 Ouray County Fair and Rodeo – Fair from Aug. 28-30, followed by the rodeo, Aug. 31Sept. 1. Events include a CPRA-sanctioned rodeo Aug. 31, and on Monday, a Rodeo Parade, a Town Park barbecue and Rodeo Number Two, a continuation of the first. Ridgway, Ouray County Fairgrounds. 29-31 Four Corners Folk Festival –In Pagosa Springs. Visitpagosasprings.com 31 Dave Wiens West Elk Bicycle Classic – A 134-mile timed tour from Gunnison along the north rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison to Crawford and Paonia before making a 5,000 climb up Kebler Pass to Crested Butte. Westelkbicycleclassic.com

29-September 1 Telluride Film Festival – Now in its 41st year. Salman Rushdie has said there are two kinds of film festivals, “mega-hyped, hoopla-infested selling circuses, and there is Telluride.” Telluridefilmfestival.org Off-Road Endurance Mountain Bike Race – Back for a second year, a ride that starts in, and returns to, Grand Junction; epicrides.com Ride the Four Corners Motorcycle Rally – The 22nd “annual party,” for which 22,000 iron horses will descend on Rally Central, located at the Sky Ute Fairgrounds in Ignacio. Bike shows, tattoo contests, beer tents, music and more; fourcornersmotorcyclerally.com 30 Peter Bradley Adams in Concert – Adams, formerly half of the duo Eastmountainsouth, plays the Wright Opera House; 7:30 p.m. thewrightoperahouse.org

SEPTEMBER 3-7 Crested Butte Ultra Enduro – The first fiveday backcountry enduro in North America: an expert-level bike race on “some of the most challenging and scenic trails in the U.S.,” involving an average 4,000-5,000 ft. of climbing and descending, over 25 miles each day. Four out of five days, the race ends at over 12,500 ft. Bigmountainenduro.com 6 Imogene Pass Run – Legendary run from Ouray to Telluride, via Imogene Pass 6-7 Silverton Quilt Show and Sale – Silverton gym; visitsilverton.com 7 Mucked Up Desert Challenge – A 5K mud run out of Grand Junction Log Hill Lungbuster Challenge – Searing, 15-mile time trial starting in Ridgway and ending at the top of Log Hill near the Divide Ranch; loghilllungbusterchallenge.com 12-14 Telluride Blues and Brews Festival – ‘Blues’ defined loosely, and the Festival is the richer for it. Peter Frampton, George Clinton and Parliament Funkadelic, Buddy Guy and Violent Femmes headline. Tellurideblues.com 13-14 Desert’s Edge Triathlon – In Fruita: Xterra Fruita, Sept. 13; Spring & Olympic Tri, Sept. 14. racingundergroud.com/desertedgetri/ Pearl Pass Mountain Bike Tour – Oldest mountain bike race in the world takes riders from Crested Butte to Aspen via Pearl Pass. www.mtnbikehalloffame.com 14-15 Oktoberfest – The Bavarian festival in Durango; at Buckley Park. Durangooktoberfest. com 16-24 Durango Beer Week – Meals, beer contests and music, culminating in SKA brewery’s 16th Anniversary Sept. 24, at which 20 regional breweries will pour (4-9 p.m.). durangooktoberfest.com

18-22 Ouray County Railroad Days – Guided hikes along the Silverton Railroad right of way, talks, auto tours. Ridgwayrailroadmuseum.org

ELIZABETH ANGLIN

20 Mountain to Desert Ride – A precipitous descent, from Telluride to Gateway. Or turn northeast, up Unaweep Canyon, and tack on 15 more punishing miles. Other variations for the gentler-of-spirit. For the first time, ultra-distance cyclists are invited to pass the summit and complete a full double-century. It all benefits the Just for Kids Foundation. m2dbikeride.com;

www.ElizabethAnglin.com Sessions in Telluride or by phone 970-708-4838

27 Ouray Mountain Trail Run – Comparable in difficulty to the Imogene Pass run, navigates the City of Ouray via the Silvershield, Ice Park and Portland trails; ouraytrailrun.org Mountain Chili Cha Cha – Trail run(s) for all ages, followed by a chili festival; visitpagosasprings.com 27-28 Annual Fall Photographer’s Train – A tour into the wilderness to shoot the Durango Narrow Gauge against a backdrop of autumn foliage; Night Photo Shoot Sept. 27. Durangotrain.com 28-October 3 The Great American Train Robbery – Take the Narrow Gauge to Silverton, ride horses on high mountain trails, then rob the train a la Butch and Sundance; durangocowboygathering.org

OCTOBER 1-2 Rippin’ Coed Bike Camps – Moab, Utah; allisongannet.com 2-5 Durango Cowboy Poetry Gathering – Gathering headquarters: Oak Room in the Strater Hotel. Durangocowboygathering.org

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OURAY MOUNTAIN TRAIL RUN SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 10AM

HOT SPRINGS PARK • 13 MILES • 100 RUNNERS USFS APPROVED

5 Black Canyon Spring Triathlon – visitmontrose.com 9-12 Durango Heritage Celebration – The seventh annual event, celebrating the town’s Victorian and Old West past; durangoheritagecelebration.org

OURAYTRAILRUN.ORG

10 Quilter’s Tea – Quilt raffle winner announced, 3-4 p.m.; Ouray, Venue Roscoe Fox.

"World-class ribs and the best bread pudding you have ever tasted. I would not visit Telluride without eating here."

10-12 Telluride Horror Show – The latest in horror, fantasy and sci-fi, one of the “20 Coolest Film Festivals” of 2011 according to Moviemaker magazine. At the Sheridan. Telluridehorrorshow.com 19 Ridgway Rhythm 5K and 10K Runs 25 Train’s Last Day to Silverton Pumpkin Patch Express – Watch the vibrant fall colors roll by; Rio Grande Scenic Railroad train-ride. Coloradotrain.com

– L arry O Lmstead , USA TodAy, march 18, 2013

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contents

Parting Shot

get out

food & drink

feature

GEAR

KIDS COOL OFF – – Young floaters swirled and eddied in the current of the San Miguel River last summer. (Photo by Brett Schreckengost)

parting shot

ad index

summer calendar

My Grandmother and I Go Tubing For millions of years, the river has surged through the canyon. But in the ninety years since my grandma was born, only once did we find ourselves together on the water, our feet dangling from the black rubber tubes, the current pulling us through the ancient rock walls. We did not notice the history around us, nor how this day would become our history. We noticed the chill, the white spray of the shallow rapid ahead, the bump of the smooth river rocks on our bums, the small gray dippers slipping beneath the surface. How could we have known then that this would be our last time, even though it was the first? We were untethered, free floating, no thought of the future, no thought of the past, curious only

about who floated faster and who laughed loudest. We paddled with our hands and promised not to splash each other, though we did anyway. And we made up songs along the way. It was that kind of day, the kind that seems to wear in its folds the scent of forever. Thirty years later, steeped in winter, though forever is lost something returns— a scrap of tune, a quickening of the breath, my grandmother’s face still so full of life, the black tube absorbing and giving back the warmth of that old, old light. – Rosemerry Wahtola Trommer

July 10 - 13, 2014

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