BarberSociety Magazine international Spring issue 2023 (in English)

PADDY CORRIGAN JUST BE TRUE TO YOURSELF. DON’T BE FAKE

BARBERS & THE CITY HOTSPOTS IN PARIS

IVAN RODRIGUEZ I JUST FOLLOWED A SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE

TIKTOK INFLUENCER REBOIR WITH MY VIDEOS, I INSPIRE YOUNG PEOPLE TO BECOME BARBERS TOO

THE AMERICAN STANDARD INTERVIEW WITH DAVID RACCUGLIA

Collection: 80 Mix

Hair & Make-up: Roberto Dallo Lafuente (ES)

Photography: Jose Urrutia

@robertopeluqueros

4 6 12 16 44 50 52 57 59 60 68 74 78 80 83

EDITORIAL

CREATIVITY IN THE HEART OF DUBLIN

Interview with Paddy Corrigan

TIKTOK INFLUENCER @REBOIR

Q&A with Reboir Kleijnendorst

TRENDS

Jose Salvador, Enes Dogan, Danny van Tuijl, Barberia Ayoze Medina, La Barbería de Oliver, Pilar Zaragozá, Roberto Dallo Lafuente, Denman Global Collective, Jürgen Niederl, Tori Gill, Olga García Estilistas, Ümit Canta, Ross

Mathieson & Jake Swanton, Gennaro Di Costanzo

ALL IN THE FAMILY

Interview with Ivan Rodriguez

BARBERS & SHOES

One-of-a-kind hand painted leather shoes

PRODUCT NEWS

Lifestyle, Grooming, In Shop

BARBER TECH

Column Chris Foster

BARBERS ON SOFTWARE

BARBERS & THE CITY

Hotspots in Parijs

THE COMMON AMERICAN STANDAARD

Interview with American Crew founder David Raccuglia

MAKING WAVES IN AUSTRALIA

Interview with Tori Gill

NEW COLUMNIST

Business coach Dennis van Lierop

HAIR NEVER STOPS GROWING

The poignant story of Barber B

THIS BARBERPOLE IS TRAVELLING TO... International Barber Convention (IT)

Editor in Chief Miranda Vlas, press@barbersociety.com Editor Leny Vlas Writers Steven Walker Contributor Chris Foster / Dennis van Lierop Art Direction Merktuig Amsterdam, Jarno Aafjes Founding Editor Marc van de Hare Advertisements & Publisher BarberSociety B.V. / info@barbersociety. com / Miranda Vlas +31 (0)6 54 212 432 ©BarberSociety is a publication of BarberSociety B.V. Nothing from this publication may be copied without the prior consent of the publisher. BarberSociety may not be included in a portfolio of magazines without prior written consent. BarberSociety is not responsible for any inaccuracies in this publication. BarberSociety is not responsible for any actions by third parties that could ensue from reading this publication. BarberSociety reserves the right to publish submitted materials entirely or partially without notification. More information is available at www.barbersociety.com.

IT’S ON!

Sunday 23 April marks the 6th edition of BarberSociety Live! In these tough economic times with high event costs, it has not been easy to pull it off financially and I have had some sleepless nights. But fortunately, the men’s trade brands showed their love for the industry and we were able to make a decision and give you another unforgettable day! So I am incredibly grateful that with the support of sponsors like American Crew, Re.solve skincare and the Dutch Hairdressers Association, this 2023 edition can take place. But I am also grateful to the brands that booked a stand. Now that Covid measures are hopefully gone for good, I also expect more international visitors allowing cultural exchange to take place like before. In short: I can’t wait for THE annual barber meeting and to speak to everyone with a heart for the barber/men’s hairstyling profession! Can I also count on your support so that together we can make it a blast of a 6th edition? Hope to see you there!

Online vs Offline

During our event, the focus will be on the live meeting. But generally, barbers interact a lot online. Besides YouTube and Instagram, TikTok is widely accessed for education and professional information. This is why we talked to Dutch TikTok influencer @ Reboir, who wants to use his videos to inspire young people to become barbers too. Be sure to read his tips if you want to gain more followers on social media!

In contrast, Irish barber Paddy Corrigan warns us in his interview that social media can also destroy you if you don’t use it in the right way for your business. Above all, show reality and don’t sugarcoat it. Spanish barber Ivan Rodriguez, who has worked for Rotterdam’s master barber Robert Lagerman and tells his beautiful story in this edition, also makes the same point: develop your own skills and don’t copy the hairstyles you see on social media. Tori Gill combines online and offline opportunities; named Australian Men’s

Are you coming to BarberSociety Live too?

Hairdresser of the Year in 2017, she now criss-crosses Australia to provide education but she has also developed an online course. In addition, she is a mother of a one-and-a-half-year-old son but that does not stop her from all these activities.

Barber Tech

Online features contribute to a great offline barbershop experience for your customers. Software can take your barbershop to the next level. Chris Foster gives some excellent useful tips in this edition; from Messenger bots, booking apps, to a CRM system.

New columnist!

In this edition, you can further read the first column by business coach Dennis van Lierop.

I often bump into Dennis at European barber events and he is knowledgeable in many areas such as brand management, employee activation and business management. I am happy that,

alongside Chris Foster, he is willing to share his knowledge with us in his columns. Take advantage of it!

Paris

Earlier this year, I was invited by American Crew to their brand-new Academy in Paris. There, ‘private shoots’ were held, photographed by none other than American Crew founder David Raccuglia. I got the chance to engage with him there. That made for an interesting story. Inspired and motivated, I returned from Paris. Especially after I also visited some amazing barbershops. Check them out in ‘Barbers & the City Paris’!

Continue reading the poignant story of Barber B who performed on our BarberSociety live stage in 2019 and has been stricken with a brain tumour. His autobiographical theatre show will also premiere in Amsterdam.

Finally, in this Spring edition you will find cool collections again, a great lifestyle story, the latest

product news and a photo report from my visit to the International Barber Convention in Rome. Take advantage of it!

Hope to see you on Sunday 23 April!

Marc van de Hare FounderBarberSociety Owner of

Van de Hare

Amsterdam

Barbers

PS BSL tickets are on sale at www.barbersocietylive.com. Should you not be able to attend, a report on BarberSociety Live will of course follow in the Summer edition!

Paddy Corrigan (31) started out in the hairdressing industry in 2009 at the age of 18. He decided right after finishing school to go into hairdressing. It was an unexpected move for an avid boxer and self-described lads’ lad. When the chance arose to work at a barbershop, he seized the opportunity. In 2013, his girlfriend’s aunt asked if Paddy would be interested in taking over her barbershop. He ended up acquiring the shop in 2013 and making his mark on the business. After five years, he moved into another space and rebranded the business as Area 9 – Social & Male Grooming. It’s both a barbershop and a space for creative-minded people to meet and share. He believes it’s important for barbers to keep it real and not play with smoke and mirrors on social media: the hype must match the reality. Area 9 has moved from strength to strength since its foundation and Paddy says the pandemic gave him a kick up the backside to make his business even better. We met up with Paddy to talk about the industry, breaking into barbering and staying true to yourself.

They laughed their heads off

Off to an early start

Paddy took his first steps in hairdressing when he was just eighteen. With an outgoing and creative personality, he was attracted to the industry thanks to the creative and sociable vibe. Paddy tells how he got into hairdressing and later barbering: “I started in 2009 when I was 18. I was getting my hair cut in a place that opened in a shopping centre near me called the Style Club. It’s owned by Irish company Peter Mark that has 74 salons in Ireland. I’d heard of them when I was growing up, but hairdressing wasn’t anything I had ever thought of getting into. But the Style Club was a young and trendy barbershop. Back then you had mostly old-school, traditional barbers where I grew up. But this place was very modern for 2009, so I started getting my hair cut there and just really liked the vibe of the shop.”

When Paddy finished school, he didn’t have a clear view of what direction he wanted to take. “When I finished my final exams at school, I didn’t really know what I wanted to do. College wasn’t for me because I was more of a creative person. So I asked about getting a job at the Style Club. I spoke with the manager, and he said as a hairdressing company they didn’t take on barbers as apprentices. But he said: ‘We can bring you into the salon and train you as a hairdresser.’ I was only 18 and I didn’t really want to be a hairdresser. But the guys said: ‘you’re an outgoing guy and should do it because a lot of the guys at the barbershop had been trained as hairdressers.’ They said it would be a great opportunity to get into the industry. So I took the offer and started that Saturday, and they

then asked if I’d like to start working full time. It was funny because my friends were all going to college and when I told them I was going to be a hairdresser, they laughed their heads off. It was the last thing they had expected from me as a lads’ lad who’d been boxing since I was eleven.”

Breaking into barbering

Paddy had always been attracted to barbering and he seized the opportunity to move into the field. “An opportunity arose at the barbershop next to the hairdressers and I took the job straightaway. At the time I was doing women’s hair, but only when I was doing shorter hair was I able to be creative. Doing long hair and curly blow dries just wasn’t my thing. So I started working at the barbershop and I stayed there for 8 months. Within that time I built up a huge clientele. My girlfriend’s auntie told me she wanted to sell her barbershop in the Dublin city centre and she asked me if I would like to take over the shop. I was only 21 and thought: ‘I don’t really know.’ I worked at her shop once a week to get a feel for it and see what the clientele was like. I really liked the vibe of the place. I asked a guy I was working with if he’d like to get involved. So me and him ended up taking over the shop in 2013 and we are now nine years in business.”

Paddy and his business partner began making their mark on the business from day one. “We took it from her having an older clientele, which was more kind of guys in suits because it’s close to a financial district. Within a year we started getting the word around about ourselves, we started getting a lot younger clientele and just grew it up. By our third or fourth year, we had five staff members.”

Space for growth

After running the barbershop, which was called Jack’s Barbers, for four years, they had the opportunity to take it to the next level by moving into a much larger space. Paddy: “My dad opened a coffeeshop about two doors down from our barbershop. He sadly passed away about two years later. The unit he had was three times larger than ours, so I ended up taking over the coffeeshop for about a year and half because my lease wasn’t up for another year. I took that over and ran it over as a coffeeshop for another year. I didn’t know anything about coffee or food, but just went along with it.”

In 2018, he moved the shop to the new space and introduced a completely new concept. ‘I moved into that establishment and completely rebranded the shop. We hired an interior designer to do the shop up. Our aim was to create a space that encourages sociability and collaboration. It’s now called Area 9 – Social & Male Grooming. The concept behind the shop is to provide traditional barbering and contemporary hairdressing mixed with a modern feel.”

Putting collaboration before competition

Paddy’s vision for Area 9 is for it to be a space where colleagues come together to collaborate, and clients can relax before or after a haircut. “Dublin is a small city with loads of pubs and barbers. As the industry has grown, many staff have left the longestablished barbershops and started their own businesses. It has consequently become so competitive that nobody interacts. I’ve noticed that more people are collaborating in the UK and the Netherlands. I want to have a shop that facilitates collaboration with other barbers. So I’ve reserved as a space at the back for a pop-up shop where clients can sell runners, clothing brands, etc. I want to be more than a barbershop and bring in

more creatively-minded people like myself. I began running industry nights a couple of months after opening the shop. The response has been fantastic. Everybody comes together and some bring their equipment and do haircuts. So there isn’t a line-up or anything. It is like a barbering show, but with the more intimate setting of a barbershop. This dovetails with my total concept

for the shop: to bring clients into the shop, but to also have it as a space for people to feel free to relax and enjoy before their haircut.”

Staying true to yourself Paddy believes that staying true to yourself and keeping your communications real are key to success. “You shouldn’t be a different person than you are.

I see a lot of barbers having smoke and mirrors on Instagram and other social media. They show different things on their social media and their clients are then expecting to get exactly that. But if they go into a shop and don’t get the same type of haircut they’re seeing on the socials and the shop isn’t clean like it is on the social media but

is filthy dirty, what’s the point? My view with social media is what you see is what you get. You’re not going to retain your clients if you show something different on your social media than the experience you are actually provide.”

Paddy also keeps it real in terms of the looks he creates and how he presents Area 9. “Scissor cuts are my favourite thing to do because I come from a hairdressing background. On social media, we obviously show off the interior of the shop and show the haircuts that we do in shop – we don’t fake anything. It’s salon friendly hair, we like to work with the hair’s natural structure to create classic shapes, adding a modern finish. We like to stick to the basics but get a more creative with it.”

Kick up the arse

Paddy says that the pandemic has actually given him renewed focus and energy to build his business. “The pandemic has been good for me because it’s really given me a kick up the arse. It’s given me a boost because when

you’re running the business for so long, you can get complacent and you’re happy with what you’ve got, but the pandemic has really fired me up and I’m treating my shop like it’s only just been opened. It’s really motivating me, because walk-ins have been down, we’re trying to keep existing clients and further improve our service. A lot of people in the industry need to do that. So many people concentrate on gaining new clients and forget about the clients who have been coming to them for years. Since last May I’ve been focusing more on the people who’ve been coming to us for a long time. This is something that I stand by: It takes years to build a client relationship but seconds to lose it. Don’t get complacent with a client, just because he keeps coming in, it takes just one bad experience to lose him. If he walks into another barbershop and gets a better haircut, he won’t come back to you.”

Partnering with excellence

Paddy believes in partnering with other businesses that work on the cutting edge of their field. A good

example is his association with Akito Scissors. “I got involved with Akito Scissors in 2017. I was looking for new scissors and came across Akito Scissors online and bought a pair in 2017. After that I just tagged them and then they responded back to me on social media. Then one day they called me up to thank me for tagging them and stuff. Akito Scissors is a family run business from the UK, run by John, Katie and their son Ryley. They offered to send me free scissors and then I met them at Salon International a couple of years back. Since then the relationship has grown organically.”

“Their product is outstanding both in terms of the quality and the distinctiveness. After a few years of barbering, I was starting to get sore shoulders. The ergonomics of Akito scissors let you hold them in a different way that keeps your elbow down and your posture good while cutting hair.”

Calling for barbers to unite Paddy appeals to professional barbers everywhere to unite and work together to raise standards.

“I want to see standards rise in the industry. I’ve seen over the past few years that anybody can open a barbershop after watching YouTube videos. I really think the industry is getting worse because untrained professionals are coming into the industry that are giving it a bad name. It needs to be buckled down and brought together by some kind of union. Because it can’t keep up the way it’s going – we hear so many bad stories about people going into shops and getting ringworm and other conditions. Standards must improve so that the industry can get better and better.”

His advice to barbers starting out in this industry? “Just be true to yourself. Don’t be fake. Stick to your own way. Educate yourself and invest in yourself. That’s what it takes to grow as a professional in this industry. Don’t get to hung up on social media because it can destroy you.”

and collaboration

We want to create a space that encourages sociability

WITH CONVERSATION IN TIKTOK INFLUENCER REBOIR

@Reboir

Photo: © Richard Broekhuijzen

@darios.barbers

Dutch Barber influencer Reboir Kleijnendorst (19), working at Nozem Barbers in Emmen (NL), is attracting a lot of attention with his barber videos. In a short time, he managed to attract 620,000 followers on TikTok. Of course, this also benefits his work in the barbershop, which has been booked out for the past eight weeks. Reboir did not have an easy childhood. Around the age of four, he entered a foster home. More followed after that. Since he was eighteen, he has been living on his own near Emmen and two years before that he entered the barber trade. “I am proof that when you have nothing, everything is possible,” he says. Reboir takes us into the world of TikTok.

Reboir, how did you come up with such a beautiful name?

“I have a French-Indonesian and Iraqi background. The French-Indonesian part comes from my mother. What no one actually knows is that I had a difficult childhood. I was in several foster homes. I see my mother occasionally, my father has been out of the picture since I was three. I am proud of what I have achieved so far and believe that when you have nothing, everything is possible.”

You have been working as a barber for 3 years now, how did that happen?

“When I was 16, I had my hair cut at my barbershop ‘Nozem’. They asked me what I wanted to be.

With my videos, I inspire young people to become barbers too

I replied that I wanted to be a chef or a producer. My foster brother from the foster home where I was living at the time was always going on about wanting to be a hairdresser. I had thought about that myself. At Nozem, they were looking for people and they told me that I could start there as a host and, by taking training courses, eventually become a hairdresser myself. That seemed like a cool idea. Nozem is a beautiful shop and one of the biggest hairdressers in Emmen. I started working there and also signed up for hairdressing training. The latter turned out to be unsuccessful. I had to cut the hair of a lot of ladies there, definitely not what I wanted, and I didn’t like it much. In consultation with my school mentor and my boss, I quit the hairdressing course and am being trained internally at Nozem. I find that I lack skills and am now concentrating on basic techniques like cutting with scissors. I want to do more courses this year, watch top barbers to see how they do it so that I can keep improving myself. Anyway, I always want to keep developing, even if I win competitions. I also do collaborations with other artists and brands through social media and run campaigns. I want to find out what else I can do in that area.”

What do you like best about being a barber?

“The clients, the social aspect. When I do a haircut, I really see it as making something I can unleash my creativity on. I also like the styling and finishing touches. For me, it’s about the complete picture that makes a client happy. And I like to make videos for social media in between interviews.”

You have quite some followers on instagram (+25k) and tiktok (+620k). How important is your social media presence?

“It is very important to me though because it is about to become my second job. I have been approached by a well-known artist management agency. The goal is for me to become the famous Dutch Barber and they are going to help me make my name big. I have a lot of passion for my work and I find that my films inspire young people to become barbers too.”

How did it all start? Was it your goal to become an influencer?

“My very first video I posted on TikTok went viral. It was a video where I cut outdoors.

I then started doing a whole series outdoors. At that time, I was not being sponsored either. Eventually I started filming in the business and that also just went viral, hence I continued with that. And that totally exploded. I always wanted to be famous,

but as an artist in the music business. Because I also make music, together with a friend. It’s nice that my dream of becoming famous is now coming true. But as a barber this time, with music playing an important role in my videos.”

Why do you think you are so popular?

“On social media, you see a lot of hairstyles but you never see the person behind them. And that is precisely what people find interesting. Transformations are closely watched on TikTok. A haircut obviously does a lot for your appearance. I also pay a lot of attention to the music in my videos, everything is customedited. The slow motions match well with the music. So it is pleasant to watch. Actually, all my videos go viral and achieve over 100,000 views. They get to know you through the videos and want to know what else you do. There is a strategy behind that. I also look groomed myself, the music plays an important role and how I make it look. In the beginning I used to wear a suit, I like cutting in that style and it gives a nice look in the videos. Meanwhile, my clothes are sponsored. I use a lot of different styles of music and that’s what I like about it. I can actually use all kinds of music in my videos. For instance, I recorded a video with Dutch artist Alessio, which provided very cheerful music, a different genre. So that way, I also reach many different audiences.”

I am proof that when you have nothing, anything is possible

How to come up with your ideas for content?

“I’m full of ideas and then I just go and do it. I get the sounds from TikTok and I see other influencers doing things that also inspire me and to which I draw my own style and creativity.”

What do you like best about being an influencer?

“The appreciation. I get a lot of positive feedback and thankfully almost no hate messages. I hear from everyone that they find it bold, beautiful and cool.”

And the least fun?

“People have certain expectations of you. Sometimes you want to meet these or be even better but you have to remain yourself. They have to get to know you as you are and not the person they would like to see. That is sometimes difficult. I also sometimes feel a certain pressure to make the videos. There were five to six weeks between 200,000 followers and 500,000 followers. So in the beginning, I was growing 100,000 followers a week. Then I did feel the pressure to arrange and post win events. But it doesn’t stop me. I keep doing things at my own pace and I don’t overwork myself.”

Do you create different content for the different channels? And if so,what are the differences?

“Yes and no. I post more about myself on insta so that they get to know more about the person behind it all. I want to get started on YouTube with funny videos featuring famous people. You don’t see much of that yet and those kinds of videos actually go viral. So on YouTube, I am going to start a new format and a new series.”

What is the advantage ofTikTok over Instagram?

“TikTok’s algorithm can make you go viral quickly. By the way, I like TikTok more as a channel, because of the creativity with music, but insta is more important. You earn more with that.”

What are your tips for cool TikTok content?

“Be creative and show the person behind it.”

What is your long-term goal for social media?

“To become big and successful with it. I would also like to sell my own products. I’m thinking of products for curls, products you can style with well. But also clothes. It would be nice to be able to set up my own brand.”

What are your ambitions for the future as a barber?

“I would love to start hairdressing famous people, travelling and doing shows and entering competitions in other countries. And still create a lot of content. I’ve been doing this for 9 months now. Started as a host, then continued as a barber and now I’m the most famous ba rber in the Netherlands. If this can go so fast, I don’t know what will happen in the future!”

JOSE SALVADOR

Collection: DE COLEGIO

Hair: Jose Salvador (ES)

Photography: David Arnal

Make-up: Eva Quílez

Styling: MIKOTO

Video: Isa Monsalve

Products: Schwarzkopf Professional

@makeoverlogrono

Collection: MOSER Rough ’23, lemon mullet

Hair: Enes Dogan, MOSER Artistic Team, (DE) Danny van Tuijl (AT)

Photography: MOSER / Philipp Jelenska

Make-up: Nadja Hluchovksy

Styling & Color: Lizzy Lemon Tools: Moser

@enesdogan_de, @hairbydvt, @moserproeurope

GERMANY/AUSTRIA FOR MOSER

ENES DOGAN & DANNY VAN TUIJL

AYOZE MEDINA BARBERIA

Collection: ESTILO CHINGÓN

Hair: Barberia Ayoze Medina (ES)

Photography: Marcos Cabrera

Make-up: Ana Lidia Alonso

Styling: Ayoze Medina.

Designer: Lucas Balboa.

Models: José Luis Ángulo, Eduardo Pérez, Dimas Hidalgo, Juan Manuel

Products: STMNT

Video: VGBND.media @barberiaayozemedina

LA BARBERÍA

DE OLIVER

Collection: HERMÉTICA

Hair: La Barbería de Oliver (ES)

Hair Assistant: Monica Moreno

Photography: Juan Francisco Pagán

MUA: Monica Moreno

Styling: Visori Fashionart

@Salvador_Oliver__ @labarberiadeoliver

PILAR ZARAGOZÁ

Collection: O-MURO

Hair: Pilar Zaragozá –EOS | MEN (ES)

Hair Assistant: Leticia Martínez

Photography: David Arnal

MUA: Claudia Cuenca

Styling: EOS|MEN

Models: Toño/ Oscar / Martin

Products: Revlon Professional, American Crew @srta.pili_eos, @eos__men

ROBERTO SPAIN DALLO

MIX

Collection: 80

Hair: Roberto Dallo Lafuente (ES)

Hair Assistant: María Carmona

Photography: Jose Urrutia

Retouch: Javier Villalabeitia

Make-up: Roberto Peluqueros

Styling: Francisco Javier Moral

Products: American Crew

Models: Zhakin Céspedes/ Misha Hill / Anthony Pujols/ Adar Lizarbe @robertopeluqueros

COLLECTIVE DENMAN GLOBAL

Collection: Nude

Hair: Denman Global Collective

Georgia Bell (UK), Alan Beak (UK), Nobu (JP), Stevo Pavloviƈ (SI), Amanda Elaine

Killen (USA), Antonio Papa (PH), Bertram

Kainzner (AT)

Photography: Liam Oakes (UK), Raimo

Rumple (AT), Yusuke Matsuyama (JP), Nenad Cakic (SI)), Nijah Stevens (USA), Richard Thomas “Dix” Perez (PH)

Creative Direction: Liam Oakes

Products: Denman

Images: FPA @denmanpro, @denmanbrush

JÜRGEN AUSTRIA NIEDERL

Collection: Look ’23, Sidepart Pomp

Hair: Jürgen Niederl, Graz / Holy Tiger Barbershop (AT)

Photography: WAHL / Lex Karelly

Styling & Creative Direction: Adi Lozancic

Model: Rüdiger Schmidt

Tools: Wahl @holytigerbarbershop, @wahlprogermany

TORI GILL

AUSTRALIA

Hair: Tori Gill (AU)

Photography: Andrew O’toole

Styling: Carlos Mangubat @torigill_barber

ESTILISTAS OLGA GARCÍA

Collection: YOUTH Hair: Olga García Estilistas (ES)

Photography: David Arnal

Make-up: Jose Luís Blasco

Styling: Visori Fashionart @peluqueriaolgagarcia

ÜMIT CANTA

Men Trendlook ’23, r.faded dreadlocks & r.street crop fade

Hair: r.tattoo x barber / Ümit Canta for WAHL (AT)

Photography: WAHL / Onur Fiore

Outfits: r.tattoo x barber

Tools: Wahl @r.tattoo.barber, @wahlprogermany

DI COSTANZO GENNARO ITALY

Collection: Irregular

Hair: Gennaro Di Costanzo (IT)

Photography: Dario Tucci

Stylist: Martina Righi

Make-up: Nanna Macera

Assistant: HD Othman

Model: @kekko.chiaro @gennaro_di_costanz

& JAKE SWANTON ROSS MATHIESON UK

Collection: Focussed Hair: Ross Mathieson, Jake Swanton (UK)

Photography: Emma Chapman

Models: @swannygram86, @theburrow, @_graigburton_ @ross_blue_steel_barber, @swannygram86, @son_of_the_bear_

LIKE LIKE GRANDFATHER, GRANDSON

Ivan Rodriguez grew up in his grandfather’s barbershop in Vigo, Spain. He’d go there after school. Watching the barbers in action every day, Ivan became fascinated with the barbering craft. He decided at a young age that he wanted to follow in his grandfather’s footsteps. So after finishing high school, he went to hairdressing college and earned full hairdressing qualifications. After working at local barbershops, he took the bold step of moving to Rotterdam, the Netherlands in 2011. Ivan got a job as a barber at the New York Barbershop working with Robert Lagerman. It was a perfect match, with Robert making him feel right at home. After marrying and having a son, Ivan and his wife Erika returned to Spain in 2018 to be closer to family. They opened Shave the Sailor in Vigo, Spain five years ago. He and his wife work together in the barbershop, carrying on the tradition of keeping it all in the family.

Watch and learn

A barbershop has always been a second home to Ivan Rodriguez. He loved to hang out at his grandfather’s barbershop after school. He’d watch the barbers at work and enjoy the laidback and convivial atmosphere. Ivan explains: “I spent a big part of my life in the barbershop where my grandfather and uncle worked. I’d hang out, read comics and watch them practice their craft. Slowly but surely, I began to pay more attention to how they were cutting hair, giving shaves and taking care of customers. I started catching on to the tricks of the trade and began learning to use a razor, scissors and clippers. I fell in love with the craft and decided I wanted to follow in my grandfather’s footsteps as a barber.”

Starting out in the business

After graduating from high school, Ivan went to hairdressing college to gain a formal education. He combined classroom training in the afternoons with working at his grandfather’s barbershop in the mornings. “My studies at the academy focused on hairdressing because there wasn’t a separate course for barbering at that time. I knew I needed to gain an official qualification because every potential employer at a barbershop or salon would ask

to see a diploma. The combination of gaining knowledge at the academy and acquiring practical experience in the barbershop was great and gave me a wellrounded education.”

Putting skill to work

After completing hairdressing college, Ivan worked at two barbershops in Vigo. “I started working at my grandfather’s barbershop when I was 19. Then after a couple of years I took up a position at another local barbershop. I learned a great deal at both barbershops and was mentored by these two master barbers.”

Heading north

Adventure called in 2011. Ivan decided he wanted to spread his wings and move to the Netherlands. So he ventured off to Rotterdam to build a new life in another country. Ivan tells the story: “I packed my stuff, and I

went to Rotterdam. To be honest, I didn’t really have any plan. I just followed a spirit of adventure and went for it. I applied at some barbershops, but they didn’t want to hire me because of the language barrier. My English was very poor at the time, so that posed some difficulties. Then I found the New York Barbershop on Facebook and decided to apply. I had an interview with Robert Lagerman, and it went very well. He was so nice to me and gave me a chance. He knew I didn’t speak English very well, but he wanted to give me the opportunity to demonstrate my skills. So he let me work one weekend on a trial basis. During that weekend, I gave haircuts and shaves and pulled beers. He watched me and saw that my technique was good and that I could interact with clients. After that weekend, he offered me a job. It was a great opportunity and I’d only been in Rotterdam for two weeks.”

Ivan’s grandfather Antonio Rodríguez Navarro (l), his boss (m), apprentice (r)

I’d hang out, read comics and watch them practice their craft

Loving life in Rotterdam

Ivan loved working at the New York Barbershop and enjoyed life in the Netherlands. “Working at New York Barbershop was a great experience. Both Robert and my other colleagues were so nice to me. I learned so much because life as a barber in Rotterdam was completely different than in Spain. Barbering is a highly skilled craft, but people in Spain don’t tend to see that. But in

the Netherlands people recognise the quality of your work. They appreciate what you’re doing and see you as a professional.”

Homeward bound

After living and working in Rotterdam for over five years, Ivan’s personal life took an unexpected turn. While on holiday in his hometown of Vigo, he met the love of his life.

They married and had a baby. Ivan explains that at a certain point they were faced with a dilemma. “My idea in the beginning was to stay in Rotterdam for forever because I like the people and the culture. When our son turned one year old, my wife and I began thinking about the future. With both of us working at a barbershop, we began to miss the family network in Spain. So we decided to move to Vigo to be closer to our families and to start our own business.”

Shave the Sailor

After moving to Vigo, Ivan and his wife opened ‘Shave the Sailor’ in the heart of Vigo’s commercial district. It’s a sleek barbershop with a unique style that combines contemporary design and a funky vibe. The front window tells us that Shave the Sailor offers beards, cuts and coffee. Ivan says the business is going well: “I’m so

proud of the shop because it’s something Erika and I have developed together. It really conveys our personalities. The business is going well. We’re also lucky to have such a good location beside Vigo’s main commercial street. The atmosphere in the shop reminds me of my grandfather’s barbershop. It’s like a second home for our clients. Many of them have been with us since we started the shop five years ago. Some have become close friends.”

Leave your ego at the door

When asked if he would like to share anything else with the international barbering community, Ivan takes the opportunity to call on barbers to let go of their egos and keep learning all their lives. “My message to the new generation of barbers is to grow step by step and be modest. The problem I see with the new generation of barbers is that they watch a lot of videos on Instagram, YouTube

I just followed a spirit of adventure

and Tik Tok, which is fine. But it’s important to develop your own skills and not just mimic others. It’s okay to be self-confident, but don’t get a big head. If you ask me, there’s nothing worse than a barber with a big ego. You can keep learning and growing throughout your career, which makes life so much more enjoyable and fulfilling. I’ve been a barber for more than 20 years and I’m still learning new things every day. That’s why I keep loving my work.”

THE NEW EAU DE TOILETTE BY GRAHAM HILL –A MODERN INTERPRETATION OF MEN‘S FRAGRANCE THAT INVIGORATES ALL THE SENSES.

Sicilian bergamot, fresh and herbal accents of green tea and the striking fragrance of vibrant eucalyptus leaves come together with fine woods, amber and white musk to create a sensual, powerful scent. For a sense of liveliness and unparalleled Mediterranean style. The perfect fragrance for the modern gentleman.

Are you interested in GRAHAM HILL products and would like to get to know them? Let us know!

Mr. Pascal Oguz: 06 417 896 88 | p.oguz@glynt.com

www.grahamhill-cosmetics.com

BARBERS & SHOES

ONE-OF-A-KIND HAND PAINTED LEATHER SHOES

Stylish, striking and 100% unique! The special high quarter brogue boots by Dutch master shoemaker

Ad van den Hout are a must-have for men who know how important a good shoe is. Ad van den Hout shoes are handmade in Portugal with use of the very best quality leather, even for the sturdy soles. The leather is then personally colored by artisan shoemaker

Ad and his daughter Nora, using colorfast and durable leather dyes. The result: unique eye-catchers that lift every outfit to a higher level.

© José Donatz fotografie

Together with Urban Bozz and Betty Bozz, Ad runs a beautiful shop in Breda, the Netherlands.

VAN DEN HOUT SHOES

Hand painted

Superior quality leather

One-of-a -kind

Price: € 299,95

Model Dylan

High quarter brogue boots English style

More information

The shoes can be purchased online at www.shelbybrothers.com or visit Urban Bozz Man Cave, Houtmarkt 164, Breda, the Netherlands.

AMERICAN CREW WHIP

American Crew® introduces the NEW Whip, an airy, weightless styling whipped formulation that provides subtle texture and flexible control for natural, effortless look. Whip’s weightless formula distributes easily to create a light, non-sticky, pliable hold and natural shine for healthy-looking hair. With a subtle, fresh mint fragrance, it readily absorbs to provide definition and separation.

More information

www.americancrew.com

DEPOT NO. 508 BEARD & MOUSTACHE CLEANSING FOAM

Cleansing foam for beard and moustache. Its formula enriched with macadamia oil and lemon essential oil cleanses deeply, leaving skin feeling fresh and clean.

More information

www.depotmaletools.com

DAPPER DAN BEARD AND SHAVE OIL

Traditional, very skin-friendly beard care and shaving oil in one. Leaves skin looking youthful and refreshed with an aromatic, masculine fragrance. 100% Natural with high quality nourishing oils, such as of bergamot, amyris and patchouli, moisturizing oils of sweet almond and jojoba, and rejuvenating castor and argan oil.

More information

www.pomadeshop.com

RE.SOLVE SKINCARE

Great looking skin for men is not out of reach, the best way to achieve it is through a simple regular daily routine. Only a few products of Re.solve are needed for a complete skincare ritual, quickly and easily. The ingredients are cruelty free, vegan, non comedogenic, free of parabens, silicones, sulphates and most important free of micro-plastics! The Re.solve skincare range consists of a cleanser, scrub, eyeserum and three moisturisers.

More information

www.resolve-skin.com

The new Centennial beSPOKE Trimmer by Andis is for professionals inspired to create custom looks. Featuring revolutionary induction charging and next-level design, beSPOKE delivers power and precision. Its high-speed rotary motor and lithium-ion battery provide 1.5 hours of cordless freedom, as the Andis Outliner Deep-Tooth GTX-Z Blade delivers crisp lines, slick fades and top-notch design work.

More information

https://andis.com/centennial

CENTENNIAL BESPOKE TRIMMER BY ANDIS

SAKURA SCISSOR SS-40

embodied by truly superior qualities. Simple yet elegant.

More information

www.shears.nl

BARBER TECH

FUTURE PROOFING YOUR BARBERSHOP

As a barber and digital marketer, I have a passion for technology and its role in growing businesses. With my experience in both industries, I have come to understand the impact that technology can have on a barbershop’s success. Whether it’s through automating processes, reaching new clients, or building a strong brand, technology has the power to take your barbershop to the next level. In this article, I want to share my insights and provide you with strategies to use technology to build a stronger barbershop brand. Whether you’re just starting out or looking to take your barbershop to new heights, these tips will help you harness the power of technology to reach your goals.

In today’s world, technology plays a huge role in the success of many businesses, and your barbershop is no exception. With so many barbershops it can be challenging to stand out and attract new clients. But, don’t worry, there are a few simple steps you can take to make your barbershop stand out using technology.

CRM system

First and foremost, consider using a CRM (Customer Relationship Management) system. This will help you keep track of your clients, their preferences, and their appointments. With this information at your fingertips, you’ll be able to personalise each client’s experience, making them feel valued and appreciated.

One of the biggest advantages of using a CRM system is the ability to monitor what clients are spending. By keeping an eye on spending patterns, you’ll have a better understanding of what’s going on within your client base. This information can be used to encourage clients to spend more by offering special promotions, ultimately increasing your revenue. Without a good handle on your CRM, it’s difficult to grow your business and increase revenue, as you won’t have the information needed to make informed decisions.

Marketing materials

Next, think about using promotional marketing materials. This can be anything from flyers, posters, or even digital ads. With the right marketing materials, you can reach new clients and let them know about the services you offer. Consider using Canva, a free graphic design tool, to create visually appealing marketing materials for your barbershop. Canva offers a

wide range of templates and design elements that you can use to create custom graphics for social media, flyers, posters, and other promotional materials. With Canva, you don’t need to be a professional designer to create stunning designs. The platform is easy to use and offers a variety of design options to help you make your barbershop stand out.

Messenger bot

One great tool for automating your barbershop experience is a Messenger bot. With a Messenger bot, you can handle appointments, answer frequently asked questions, and even send out reminders to clients. This will save you time and help you stay organized, allowing you to focus on providing top-notch haircuts. If you’re interested in seeing a Messenger bot in action, be sure to check out my Instagram handle, @theprofile.guy. I have a bot set up and you can see exactly how it works and how you can use it to benefit

your barbershop. Whether you’re just getting started with Messenger bots or you’re looking to improve your existing setup, my bot is a great example of how this technology can help you take your barbershop to the next level.

Booking app

Another great tool is a booking app. With a booking app, clients can easily book appointments with you from their smartphones. This makes it more convenient for them, and it also helps you keep track of your schedule.

Email list

Don’t underestimate the importance of building an email list. By collecting the email addresses of your clients, you’ll be able to send them promotions and updates about your barbershop e.g staff sickness or holidays. This will keep them engaged and help you attract new clients. More importantly, keep the lines of communication open to your existing clientele.

Google My Business

And finally, consider using Google My Business to manage your online presence across Google. With Google My Business, you can add important information about your barbershop, such as your business hours, contact information, and photos. It also allows your clients to leave reviews and rate your barbershop, providing valuable feedback and helping you improve your services. It also helps build your reputation and attract new clients.

Using technology in your barbershop is a great way to build your profile and stand out from other barbershops in your area. From CRMs to promotional marketing materials, to Messenger bots, booking apps, and Google My Business, many tools are available to help you take your barbershop to the next level.

If you’re looking for additional support in building a bigger brand and amplifying your profile, I would love to help. As a digital marketer, I’ve recently set up a digital marketing agency and I’m passionate about helping businesses like yours succeed. So, don’t hesitate to reach out to me at info@theprofileguy.com. I know I can help you achieve huge industry success.

That’s it! I hope you found this article helpful in your quest to use technology to build your barbershop’s profile and stand out from the rest.

Chris Foster

The Profile Guy

@theprofile.guy

BARBERS ON SOFTWARE

Ronald de Bont, De Zwarte Raaf, Groningen (NL)

“We are working with software of Salonhub. This software ensures that I don’t have to worry about all kinds of peripheral matters. I can focus on the quality of my barbershops and in the background my customer is served in the right way.”

Tori Gill, Paragon Studio, Melbourne (AU)

“We use booking software called Timely. It’s very easy to use and makes it simple for us to control the whole customer experience. All our clients now book online, which saves us lots of time. It’s also enabled us to reduce the number of no-shows. We recently introduced a cancellation fee, so we take their credit card details when they make a booking. We never used to do that. We’d say that there was a cancellation fee, but there never was. But now you’re actually charged if you don’t show up for your appointment, so that’s definitely helped.”

Ivan Rodriquez, Shave the Sailor, Vigo (ES)

“We have put a lot of thought into selecting the software to use for Shave the Sailor. It’s very important because it helps us achieve our aim of giving our clients a top-quality experience. We ultimately chose Booksy software. It’s software designed especially for barbershops, hair salons and hairstylists. It’s a total solution that works extremely well. We use it to manage appointments and product inventories and to keep track of how many times a year clients visit our shop. It even tracks the average customer spend on barbering services and products. You can do it all with this one programme. It saves us so much time and helps us keep improving our service.”

“Our clients now book online, which saves a lot of time”

“Software helps us give our clients a top-quality experience”

BARBERS & THE CITY

We showcase a different city in each edition of BarberSociety magazine as a source of inspiration. In this edition, we’re spotlighting the capital city of France. Check out Paris’s amazing barbershops and the hotspots local barbers say you shouldn’t miss when visiting their great city.

Gentlemen 1919

11 rue Jean Mermoz

75008 Paris France

+33 1 42 89 42 59

@gentlemen1919

www.gentlemen1919.com

Gentlemen 1919 is located in one of the chic districts of Paris’ 8th arrondissement, a stone’s throw from the Champs Elysées. Those wanting to know more about the distinctive style of this part of Paris only need to step into the salon of the barbershop at number

11 rue Jean Mermoz. Gentlemen

1919 exudes timeless chic with authentic furnishings reminiscent of days gone by. They offer the full range of treatments the modern man needs to take care of his appearance. A hidden door opens up to another universe for connoisseurs with a cocktail bar in ‘speakeasy’ mode complemented by a smoking room

in an atmosphere like that of the best English clubs. “We offer an original, masculine and welcoming environment. After the gentleman with taste has entrusted his beard and/or his haircut to expert hands, he can taste carefully selected alcoholic drinks or cocktails, enjoy gourmet snacks or smoke a nice Havana in peace. Because we attach great importance to sharing the joy of life, we have created an authentic place to engage in delightful experiences. Particular attention has been given to creating an environment that looks like the set from a movie, with a combination of industrial metal, wood panelling, aged leather, cement tiles, antiques and vintage drawings on the walls. The subdued lighting creates an atmosphere that calls for relaxation. An atmosphere dedicated to Parisian gentlemen who appreciate discretion in a place they can identify with.”

OUR HOTSPOTS

Brasserie Thoumieux

79 rue Saint Dominique

75007 Paris

@thoumieuxparis

www.brasseriethoumieux.fr

A Gentlemen’s Club run by Gentlemen with a pianist providing the musical accompaniment.

Men’s clothing Lorenzo Cifonelli

83 rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré

75008 Paris

@cifonelli_official

www.cifonelli.com

Origines

6 Rue de Ponthieu

75008 Paris

+33 9 86 41 63 04

@originesrestaurant

www.origines-restaurant.com

A gourmet restaurant located 50 metres from Gentlemen 1919 that we are happy to send our customers to. It is rumoured to be a future starred restaurant...

Men’s clothing Daniel Levy

3 rue du Cirque

75008 Paris

@daniellevychemisier

www.daniel-levy-chemise.com

L’Angelus

4 Place de la Porte de Champerret

75017 Paris

+33 1 43 80 88 53

@angelusparis17

www.angelus-paris.fr

An authentic brasserie founded by a Gentleman. The restaurant offers an innovative menu of seasonal classic dishes and has an exceptional wine list with rare wines.

Planète Rasoir

58, rue de Clichy 9ème

75009 Paris

France

+33 1 42 85 16 08

@planete_rasoir

www.planeterasoir.com

Since 1966, for 57 years, Planète Rasoir has been an expert in shaving, selling all tools and products for shaving and hair care. They have a wide range of hair and beard trimmers, almost 150 shaving brushes, as many mach3 fusion razors, but above all a large assortment of the traditional open razor as well as other types of blades. In short: a candy shop for men! They offer training courses to help you learn how to use the open razor. Men come from far and wide to master this expertise. They also have a barber service where the barbers only work with the authentic open razor.

OUR HOTSPOTS

Bistro Gaultetmillaufrance

67 rue de Clichy

75009 Paris 9

33 1 42 40 28 47 @Gaultetmillaufrance

https://fr.gaultmillau.com/ restaurants/l-ascension

A very pleasant place where you can eat delicious food.

A French bistro, but with a chef who has travelled the world and takes us on his culinary journeys.

Rex Club

5 Bd Poissonnière

75002 Paris

+33 1 42 36 10 96 @rexclub https://rexclub.com

A real Parisian nightclub with great entertainment.

Men’s boutique Hérold Leclaireur 10 rue hérold

75001 Paris @leclaireur

www.leclaireur.com/pages/boutiques

Planète Rasoir

VBS

96 Rue du Faubourg Poissonniere

75010 Paris

+33 1 40 16 40 20

@vbs.paris

www.vbs.paris

VBS was founded in 2015 out of a genuine desire to enrich the men’s fashion landscape in Paris. To offer its customers a unique experience, the VBS team created a space with an industrial and vintage atmosphere that invites you to discover a fine selection of clothes and accessories.

In addition, the cosy boutique is a pleasant place to be as you take a seat in a comfortable KOCH barber chair from the 1920s, imported directly from New York, and surrender to the expert hands of the barber.

OUR HOTSPOTS

Brasserie Bellanger

140 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière

75010 Paris

+33 9 54 00 99 65 @nouvellegardegroupe https://nouvellegardegroupe.com

Brasserie Bellanger has been my favourite for a while now. This is where I go with clients or where I have lunch and dinner on weekends. This corner restaurant is decorated in an old style, with beautiful floor tiles, a shiny bar with many colourful bottles as eye-catchers. It’s all very Instagrammable. The service is great, with really friendly waiters, and the food absolutely fabulous. The brasserie is on Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière in the 10th arrondissement, close to VBS and the Gare du Nord.

Brasserie Barbès

2 Boulevard Barbès

75018 Paris

+33 1 85 15 22 30

@brasseriebarbès

www.brasseriebarbes.com

This is also one of my favourites with a contemporary take on the old-fashioned brasserie but with all the trimmings: beautiful tiles, mirrors, lots of windows and two gorgeous bars in an industrial setting. Located near BarbesRochechouart metro station, Brasserie Barbès is a fantastic four-store brasserie. Here you can have breakfast downstairs, a sumptuous lunch or dinner upstairs, sit outside on the terraces another floor up and later dance on the roof.

Best shop in Paris: VBS

Our favourite men’s shop in Paris is, of course, VBS! You will find a selection specially curated for men (and now also for children). The brands are chosen mainly for their history and the quality of their products, characterised by beautiful materials and successful fits. You will find eclectic, exclusive clothes as well as the classics. Baracuta’s Harrington jackets hang alongside the now iconic Colorful Standard sweaters. The excellence of English know-how of Private White VC jackets mixes with the ‘workwear’ style of that of French brand Vétra. In short, VBS has everything to please men: beautiful surroundings, quality modern products and a skilled barber who can create any hairstyle you want.

THE COMMON AMERICAN STANDARD

founder David Raccuglia Interview with American Crew

Barbers throughout Europe had the unique opportunity to have a collection shoot photographed by no one less than American Crew founder David Raccuglia during private photos sessions. David is not only the founder of the number 1 styling brand, but he is also a renowned photographer. American Crew invited team BarberSociety over to Paris in their brand-new Academy in which the photoshoots took place. We could meet up with David to talk about the grooming industry, the brand, the products and creating hair collections.

How it started How it all started? David (64) explains: “I was inspired by the lack of grooming options for men on the market, and I knew there had to be a better offering than the limited selection of drugstore products and run-of-the-mill wax pomades. So, with the knowledge gathered from my styling experience as a barber along with my passion for filling that gap in the market I launched American Crew in 1994 with just six products.”

30 years and sky rocketing David: “And here we are almost 30 years later, what a ride we have been on! Now we have landed, we are doing 55% of the beauty market. American Crew as a brand is the common American standard and will be forever. We are a very good value and very high-quality product. We are very concerned about our ingredients; we are compliant with rejecting bad ingredients. For the value we are

the best men’s grooming brand there is. Whether or not how people look at it, our products perform at least. That’s one of the reasons we are the number 1 styling brand, which I believe in the world now. Overall American Crew has over 40 products if you take shave, beard, care and styling. We don’t have a lot of me-too products. We create our products from scratch, we have our own way of doing things. We pioneered a lot. It was very important to me and the company that we were not a one trick brand we want it to be the styling product for every hair texture. And I think we succeeded in it, that’s why we offer a lot of diverse products like creams, care, shampoo etc. Men have a huge appetite for this all. We are the most copied hair care brand. Nevertheless, there are many good product brands out there, many. They all have their own unique position in the marketplace.”

Product launches following trends

American Crew launches new products every year. David explains how he comes up with new ideas. David: “We have new products coming up soon. We have a whole innovation team working on our products. What I look personally for is: what changing in hair trends do we have? Is hair getting shorter, longer, are people running their fingers through their hair or only freezing their hair. Are people brushing their hair, combing their hair or not combing? There is a dance that I go through to try to figure out what’s next. I am lucky that I have daughters that are in their twenties and therefore I see a lot of young people and I am able to ask them a lot of questions about their hair. The younger group today is not as intense with their grooming but they love using

products. It is very cool now to use a hair product. Now, they are not looking for as much for intense hold, or gravity and fine shapes, it is more looser now. Everything is cool for men’s hair nowadays. From shaved hair, to long hair. That isn’t odd or trendy, it’s normal. What a great time to be in the grooming business, everything is being celebrated!”

Celebrating style

David points out that the American Crew products are relevant for whoever wants to groom. He doesn’t label people. He even mentions that many women today have more barbering style than men. David: “I am inspired by change. I love people that celebrate style; men, women, gender neutral, whatever it is. If you are celebrating style, American Crew is a good brand

for you. It works. And that to me is very important. I see our product like an incredibly good quality t-shirt. You put it on and it goes to you. That is what our product is. You wear a t-shirt for a reason, you use grooming products for a reason. Do you want it to go up, do you want it to go forward, we’ll do it. As much I love the barber category, I see that there are many women today that have more barbering style than men. We are a really good product for a lot of people, that is the key thing. Nothing in the labels or names. Our product is for grooming. Whoever wants to groom, is going to be happy with our products. It offers a level of hold and shine, it has an explanatory way to use, it works better on short and medium hair. Whoever wants to be involved in that kind of quality will be happy with our brand.”

I love people that celebrate style

Newest kid on the block

Asking to the new product that will be launched soon in Europe, David tells us about ‘Whip’. “Whip is our newest product. It’s the product that makes you look if you don’t have a lot of product in your hair. I use it myself, it’s my favorite product right now. It is a light, airy formula. So it goes into the hair very easily. It doesn’t weigh the hair down at all. It is also very good for fine hair because you can layer it and overuse it and it doesn’t weigh the hair down. It looks like it is more textured.”

What his all-time favorite product is? “I like our new care line very much, we just renovated the shampoo and I love the daily moisturizing shampoo, it is really an upgrade. I also love Detox Shampoo. A great scalp shampoo that I use 2 or 3 times a week. I love our beard serum too. My go-to product has been for years the cream pomade. But now I love Whip. I like to run with my fingers through my hair so Whip is now my favorite. It makes my hair a little more lifted.”

Use your voice

David flew over from the USA to shoot private collections from Barbers throughout Europe in Paris. He feels it is very important for barbers to create collections, it gives them a voice. “If you create a collection of hair every year, you say: this is what we feel represents us. The way

we want to cut, the length, the style, the trend whatever you want to call it.It becomes the voice. And keep your voice different than someone else’s voice. I think that is really important. Even if you use the iPhone, it’s important to create something with your name and your brand identity on it.

”But where do you start in creating a collection? “I create a collection every year and what I do is: I see what I love. I first look what’s going on. I get inspired by music, by sport. I rarely get inspired by fashion. Fashion to me is where everybody looks. So, I try to look in a different way, like the reinvention of the past. So, it is really more about what you think is interesting. Pop culture in general, that makes a huge impact. Like the TV series Euphoria, (ed.: original HBO series), was huge in the States. I am not saying they should look at that, but the truth is that it’s probably where a lot of ideas come from. A brand like Crew that’s here for 30 years, we are not willing to abandon our roots for a trend. We will adapt some pop culture event to our roots because we are doing it for so long. Creating a photo collection is having consistency. If you have like 4 or 5 models, you can’t just do everything. You have to be reasonable, is it the texture, the shape, the finish etc. “

Future plans

About the brand’s future plans, David points out that the engineering and making of products are changing: “We have fantastic new products coming out, also styling products. We have many things where we are looking at. The engineering and making of products are changing. We as a brand want to go forward with the best quality. New technology in order to multi benefit bold hair, skin, cells. There is more attention for better health for hair, better health for the scalp. So, products with a multi benefit role. It is very exciting, kind of a new era. I love seeing new opportunities for hair, in styling, in care etc.”

And his own plans? “In all of the 30 years that I am working with the brand, since I founded the brand, it has never been as much fun as it is now! It’s an all-time high, it’s a blast because the grooming category is on fire. The first ten years, nobody cared about Crew, we were very small. To be part of the number 1 grooming brand in the world is pretty awesome! I am so grateful!”

To be part of the number 1 grooming brand in the world is pretty awesome!

MAKING WAVES IN AUSTRALIA

Starting out as a Saturday Girl

Tori developed an interest in hairdressing when she was just a teenager. She tells how she started out in the business: “I started working in a hairdressing salon as a Saturday Girl when I was 15 years old. I helped out at the salon by washing people’s hair. I’d always wanted to go to art college after finishing school. But just when I’d passed all my exams and was ready to apply to art college, the hairdressing salon where I was working asked me if I’d like to stay on for an apprenticeship. So I ended up doing an apprenticeship there and fell in love with hairdressing. I realised it was very creative and actually arty in itself.” So Tori took a change of direction and began pursuing a career in the hairdressing industry. “I qualified as a hairdresser and began working at Cheyne’s hair salon in Edinburgh.” Tori was young and adventurous and eager to see more of the world. “I decided I wanted to do some travelling. So I went to Ibiza and lived there for six months and then returned to Edinburgh. But I wanted to travel some more, so I came to Australia for a year. I was doing hairdressing in Australia at that time, so I hadn’t yet become a barber.”

She returned to Scotland after a year in Australia and that’s when she discovered barbering. “When I went back to Scotland in early 2013, I noticed barbering had really taken off in the UK. So that’s when I became interested in barbering. Some of the guys I used to work with in the salon had opened a barber shop and they asked me to work there. At the time I wasn’t that interested in doing men’s cuts and I didn’t really know how to fade hair. I wasn’t familiar with clippers. But I thought, I’ll give it a go and I loved it.”

After a year of developing her barbering skills in Edinburgh, Tori moved back to Melbourne. “I came back to Australia and got a job in a barbershop. Back then there weren’t many good barbershops in Australia. Barbering was just taking off in Australia at that time. There were traditional barbershops, but not many modern barbershops that combine hairdressing and barbering. There was actually one good barbershop named Kings Domain and I began working there.”

Complementary skills for the best of both worlds

Tori found that having a background in hairdressing helped her hone her barbering skills and that hairdressing skills could be transferred to barbering. Tori explains: “It helped that I was familiar with using scissors and comfortable with all scissor work. It was mainly the clipper work that I had to learn. Over time the clipper work got easier. I had already developed a trained eye that enabled me to do proper fading. So that came pretty easily to me.”

Her interest in art helped her from a creative perspective.

“I think because I used to do a lot of drawing and art, I had a good eye for detail. So when it came to doing a fade my eye could pick up exactly like what part needed to be blended more. This is something some people struggle with because it takes an artistic eye to see the line, the fade, the shade.”

Passing on the skills of a winner

Tori’s skills have not gone unnoticed in the industry. She’s racked up numerous awards during her career.

“I was named Australian Men’s Hairdresser of the Year in 2017.

Hair: Tori Gill

Photography: Andrew O’toole Stylist: Mette Pors torigill.com

I was also a finalist in 2018 and 2019. I’d now like to help the younger generation of up-and-coming barbers by sharing with them the knowledge I’ve gained over the last 15 years. That’s why I am turning my focus more towards education. I provide education across the country and have developed an online course. I don’t think I’ll participate in any more competitions myself; I’m now enjoying helping others achieve their goals.”

Motherhood matters

Tori had a baby boy named Romeo eighteen months ago. She has found a way to successfully balance her responsibilities as a barber and as a mother. “I turned my garage into a studio. When Romeo was still a small baby, I was able to cut clients in between feeding him. I still have my studio at home and work part time from home at the studio and part time at a boutique barbershop in Melbourne called Paragon Studio.”

Looking to the future

Tori looks to the future with optimism and enthusiasm. She wants to continue to build her career in barbering and expand more and more into education. Tori offers words of encouragement for other women in the industry combining barbering and motherhood. “I’d like to tell them that, with the right planning and work-life balance, you can do it. Look at me: I still travelled over to the UK last year, performed on stage and travel around Australia doing education. I’m still working and being a mum at the same time. I feel like a lot of people think you can do one or the other, but don’t listen to them - you can do both.”

She’s also committed to working hard to give her son the best opportunities. “I want to give my son a good life and great opportunities. So that makes me work harder. It makes me ask myself: How can I do better and how can I get more work so that I can continue to show him when he grows up that you can achieve anything you set your mind to.”

I have a good eye for detail

Dennis van Lierop is a hairdresser, business and salon coach based in Berlin/Germany. He is CEO and owner of HALO Academy and has a background in hairdressing and the international hair and beauty industry. With his skills in brand management, employee activation, and salon and business management, he has shaped the European hairdressing industry. He is a sought-after speaker, author, and concept developer in the professional hair cosmetics industry. He has published a best-selling book and has coached hundreds of salons. With his new column in BarberSociety, you can benefit from his expertise.

BUSINESS COACH DENNIS VAN LIEROP

NEW COLUMNIST

©Fabrice Oyedele for MasterYourBrand Barber artist: Kevin Boon

The hairdressing industry is a constantly changing market, with new challenges and issues emerging all the time. For salon owners and barbers, the key to success is staying informed and up-to-date on the latest trend developments. For example, one of the most current issues is finding and retaining top talent for the barbershop. Because we all know: it’s all about the team. A good team is the most valuable asset. There is also an increasing demand for higher quality haircuts and beauty services as customers become more demanding. Last but not least, today you should also present your barbershop like the highly paid marketing professionals. Good barbershop branding is in demand. Our job has become more complex. To keep you up to date, today I’ll show you the biggest issues for barbershop owners right now:

Top talent wanted!

In order to attract and retain top talent, many barbershops are looking to higher prices to differentiate themselves from the competition. This is especially evident in Europe, where the hairdressing industry is highly competitive and customers are willing to pay more for excellent services. Finally, it is important to hire employees who fit the company culture and train their skills. This leads to a more productive and motivated team.

Branding!

Another trend in Europe is the emphasis on branding. This is about creating a distinct identity that sets a barbershop apart from others. One way to do this is by professionalizing your marketing. Use professional photos, videos and social media content to highlight the unique benefits of your barbershop.

Focus on Gen Z - the next generation of employees!

Another way to differentiate your barbershop is to focus on Generation Z. This generation is tech-savvy and it pays to know their preferences in order to provide them with a personalized and engaging experience. This leads to higher customer loyalty and more repeat customers.

Education is the key!

Another important trend is offering educational programs. These help to improve skills and stay ahead of the competition. Training in areas such as hair styling, personal care and customer service, as well as the use of technology in the barbershop, are important aspects. Offer professional development programs for their employees to train their skills and stay ahead of the competition.

In summary, the barbershop industry is a market with many challenges, but also many opportunities. Keep your finger on the pulse of the barber industry! As a barbershop owner or newcomer to the industry, it’s important to stay on top of the latest trends. Keep up with the most important trends and developments and take steps to ensure that your business remains competitive in the European market.

Dennis van Lierop

More information

Email: info@halo-academy.com

Phone: +49 30 34042742

www.halo-academy.com/ master-your-brand/

HAIR NEVER STOPS GROWING

Following a stage performance with his Piranha Hair Studio at Barber Society Live 2019, Barber B is returning to Amsterdam to premiere his first international performance of the auto-biographical piece Barber B: A Play of Sorts. The acclaimed barber has won countless competitions and toured countries creating hair art. But since his last show in Amsterdam, his journey has been far from clean cut. In 2021, Barber B discovered he had a brain tumor. Despite this overwhelming challenge, he decided to produce and star in a play with stories from his life. A performance is being scheduled in Amsterdam for Spring/ Summer.

The Initial Seed

In 2019, Brian Swarray aka Barber B partnered with BarberSociety to create something unique. Three-decade veteran Barber B felt tutorials were well-meaning but didn’t offer much excitement for audiences. Especially since his sights were set on inspiring young people and children to get into the profession. For such a clientfocused craft, the tutorials were surprisingly barber-centric. An idea dawned on him. Why not put on a show for an audience of trainees and skilled barbers? At the same time, he’d demonstrate his method of training new barbers developed in his Piranha Barber Academy.

So, that’s what he did. Barber B brought his technicians and his personally-trained team, Piranha Hair Studio, from Leeds. He found a troupe of young Brazilian street dancers whilst in Amsterdam, who would double as hair models. The ‘Each One Teach One’ show during BarberSociety Live 2019 was a success, pairing culture, music and dance with barber training. Full of inspiration and motivation Barber B was set to offer his skills and entertainment to a global audience. But, as we all know, the world stopped spinning in 2020. The pandemic rocked the hair industry worldwide. After the significant financial investment,

dying to be an actor

Barber B was under pressure. However, unbeknownst to him, the pandemic was only the beginning of his troubles. His journey was about to become infinitely more complicated.

No Stranger to a Challenge

Legend has it that Robert the Bruce, whilst fighting for Scottish independence, retired to a cave after many defeats. Lamenting his failures, he considered abandoning his mission. His attention was drawn by a spider, which attempted to weave a web as Robert watched. Countless times, the spider fell from its intended home and the web had to be started again.

Robert was engrossed, identifying his own struggles in the spider’s persisting failures. Eventually, the spider made its web and Robert, taking heart from what he’d seen, decided to fight the English one more time. He won, in the face of great odds. In hearing the stories from Barber B... One can’t help but think of this story.

Barber B’s life is as colourful as his hair designs. He’s been a cleaner, a butcher, a mechanic, a builder and a club promoter along with becoming a master barber. He raised seven children whilst working countless hours in the hair studio, bore witness to his mother suffering

from domestic violence and saw his father pass away in his arms. Through this, life’s challenges took him to some dark places, but barbering always called him back to the straight and narrow. Although tested countless times, every challenge

Barber B faced was met with determination. More still, with a sense that life’s obstacles were in fact opportunities. If navigated with the right mindset they could cultivate growth.

In the Face of Adversity

In 2021, Barber B had been sober for three years. Being overweight after a lifestyle of overwork and neglecting his health had pushed him to radical change. He’d taken to an intense exercise regime and diet. He completed an ultramarathon in March 2021, running the length of 2 marathons in 48 hours. In June, he ran up the Yorkshire three peaks. But, on the 4th of July, his world was about to change. A slight limp on his left side prompted a trip to the hospital. Following a six-hour consultation, the conclusion was bleak. They’d found a tumour. A grade 4 glioblastoma, known in the medical community as ‘The Terminator’. This particular tumour has a 2% survival rate. Due to how the tumour was growing in the brain, there was no way to remove all of the cancerous tissue. It was the same diagnosis Brian’s mother had died of at 52. He was 48.

Following brain surgery and a course of simultaneous radiotherapy and chemotherapy, Barber B began rehabilitation. Building his strength on a zimmer frame he eventually started training again. Spurred by an indomitable will, he entered the Leeds 10K on the one-year anniversary of his diagnosis. Not only did he raise money for the Yorkshire Brain Tumour Charity, he also ran a personal best. This wasn’t the only challenge he’d taken on. Barber B returned to the hair show with renewed vigour. This time, together with showcasing his

unique talents in cutting hair and training barbers, he was going to tell some of the stories from his life.

New Skills

Although producing and starring in the performance has given Barber B energy - the process has not been easy. It has meant confronting past ghosts and the new spectre of the diagnosis. He’s balanced ‘going public’ with weighing up the effects that being so open about his diagnosis might have on his family. Alongside this, he’s had to learn to become a performer. In the initial script testing, they found the effects of the tumour on Barber B’s shortterm memory made memorising lines extremely challenging. Moreover, stories told with such charisma only days before became wooden as Barber B struggled to get the words right. They changed tack. Rather than develop a complete script, a drafted guide allowed Barber B to tell his life stories naturally. Who better to tell your story than you, right? This device helped remedy some of the issues with memory. But not all of them. He still got stuck sometimes. This led to a technique of prompting which had to be woven into the performance itself.

Beyond this, Barber B had to get used to being on stage with the material. The confidence he’d delivered his hair seminars with dissolved as he tried to remember sections to audiences. On he went. At local open mic nights, he confronted the task time and time again, even plucking up the courage to give a 1 on 1 performance in a sauna!

Still Growing

In a few short months, Barber B’s come on immeasurably. “I’m dying to be an actor,” he jokes now. And it’s with this alacrity that he faces this opportunity to build a legacy, whilst still learning new skills. Not only is he performing this show, but an application is underway to make the show bigger. All singing and all dancing, with barbers being trained as the performance takes place. It’s a hugely ambitious project. But with the tenacity he’s faced every other challenge in his life, he’s going to pull it off. In style.

BarberB:APlayofSortswillbe showingatTheCarriageWorks, Leeds,Englandon21stJuly2023. Aperformanceisbeingscheduled inAmsterdamforSpring/Summer. Follow@barberbbraintrainthejourney and@sekilynchforupdateson performancetimesandlocations.

Photography: © Stan van de Hare