DECEMBER 2018 Nº 263
NEW YEAR’S RESOLUTIONS HOW TO LEARN A NEW LANGUAGE IN 2019
GET OUT AND VOTE WHAT EU EXPATS NEED TO KNOW
WHY CHRISTMAS IN CATALUNYA IS THE SH*T PLUS! ART
MUSIC
BEST OF
NEW IN TOWN
STARTUP
RESTAURANT REVIEWS
TRAVEL
CONTENTS
ISSUE 263 · DECEMBER 2018
12 GET OUT AND VOTE! Amy Holden urges EU expats to use their voting rights
IN THE CITY
20 HOW I LEARNED A LANGUAGE FOUR TIMES FASTER
If improving your language skills is on your list of things to tackle in 2019, this might be a good place to start.
6 9 10 12 14
28 MAKING MAGIC HAPPEN
WHAT’S ON
One-on-one with Juan Arnau, CEO of elrow
22 24 26 30 33
New in town Five things Street life Best of History
Music Calendar Misc Art Art review
TRAVEL
34 Tarragonès 36 Bages
WORKING LIFE
38 A day in the life 39 Startup
FOOD & DRINK 40 Ratafia 42 Kings’ Cake
METROPOLITAN CONTRIBUTORS
Publisher The Noise Lab S.L. Art Director Lynne Werner Senior Editor Adina Rose Levin Assistant Editor Chris Richardson Social Media and Photography Diana Delgado Pineda Business Manager Marina Piegari IT Consultant Héctor Cols Contributors Manuel Rivas, Annette Pacey, Jessica Bowler, Ian Gibbs Cover Photo J. Rodriguez Deza Duc 6, 08002 Barcelona Tel. 93 451 4486 editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited. Depósito legal: B35159-96
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ANNETTE PACEY
Originally from New Zealand, Annette first came to Barcelona in 2001 and has lived here permanently since 2010. Along the way she’s collected a master’s degree in international relations, a career in hospitality, a daughter, a husband and a cat. These days she runs the blog barcelonafamilylife.com for international families in Barcelona and is a contributing writer for The Japan Times, Catalonia Today and MumAbroad Life. She writes mostly about education, politics, feminism and intriguing people.
IAN GIBBS
Ian came to Barcelona from Sheffield, England in 1990 as an English teacher. Now he’s the author of multiple books — the last of which came out this fall — as well as a speaker, coach and owner of IPA Productions, an educational theater company. He’s currently visiting schools and colleges in Barcelona to give motivational talks about learning techniques for students. If you’d like Ian to come to your local learning institution, drop him a line at ian@iangibbs.es
JESSICA BOWLER
Jessica is a bilingual communications specialist whose work has been featured in the Los Angeles Times and on BBC Radio, as well as with brands like Momondo, eDreams and Expedia. She’s been based in Barcelona since 2011 and recently received a master’s degree in communication from the Universitat Pompeu Fabra’s Barcelona School of Management. In her spare time, she loves exploring the Catalan capital in between siestas and cups of tea. Find out more at barcelonablonde.com and on Instagram at @barcelonablonde
NEW!
ON THE GRAM
We’re debuting a new section featuring some of the best photos of the season on social media. If you couldn’t already tell from this holiday issue, we’re obsessed with #caganers (see pages 9 and 14-15.)
@rossesitorrades
@cagarlitus
@antgiga
@emmas_life_with
@mort.safe
@felipics_1986
@caganershop
@jmbonillalopez
@kikocasals
WANT YOUR PHOTO HERE? We’re looking for great pics of #markets for the February issue. Tag your photos with @barcelonametropolitan for a chance to be featured! 5
IN THE CITY
new in town
BOMBILATE TRAVESSERA DE GRÀCIA, 50-52. (BTWN. ARIBAU & MUNTANER) FACEBOOK.COM/ BOMBILATERESTAURANTE
Photo courtesy of Bombilate.
There’s a lot of buzz surrounding Bombilate and not just because it’s a fun word to say. As well as being one of the most stylish new restaurants around, it boasts a brilliant menú del dia with quality traditional and original plates, including the famed ceviche drowned in zesty tiger’s milk. And after grabbing a bite, head on over for another round at the vodkateca, Bombilate’s dedicated vodka bar.
MANGLAR CARRER DE MUNTANER, 124. (BTWN. MALLORCA & PROVENÇA) MANGLARBARCELONA.COM
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Photo by Diana Delgado Pineda.
Photo courtesy of Manglar.
Renowned for its fantastic brunch, Manglar is typically packed with diners enjoying the high energy and good vibes, against a pleasant backdrop of solid wood furnishings and well-kept plants. The menu includes divine artisanal breads, egg-based goodies and other inventive dietfriendly treats that won’t leave vegans disappointed either. With generous, hearty portions, as well as finger food, shared plates and a wide selection of beverages — all using the finest fresh ingredients — Manglar lives up to its motto of “brunch, bistro and specialty coffee.”
Photo courtesy of The Perfumery.
GREEN UP
AVINGUDA DE SARRIÀ, 21. (NEAR PLAÇA DE FRANCESC MACIÀ) INSTAGRAM.COM/GREENUP.SARRIA21
Photo courtesy of Nacarii.
Photo by Diana Delgado Pineda.
With an eclectic selection of salads, soups, juices and quiches, Green Up makes it easy to get in your daily dose of minerals and vitamins. And with the likes of the lime and mint panna cotta, even the desserts are nourishing. Whether you pull up a stool at a cozy table inside, relax and enjoy the terrace, grab a bag to go or order online for delivery — Green Up is just the place to crank up your health kick. While you’re at it, indulge your Instagram craving with their perfectly-curated feed featuring their latest delights and offerings.
MAGPIE CARRER DELS TIRADORS, 1. (PLAÇA SANT AGUSTÍ VELL) MAGPIEVINTAGECLOTHING.COM
Nestled in El Born is a corner vintage store adorned with succulents and cacti that create the perfect bohemian boutique feel. It’s the second location of the popular Magpie store, which launched in London. With a colorful variety of clothing styles and accessories, Magpie makes it easy to get lost in time and come back with a unique find. Bright prints and high quality vintage garb from across the decades promise to make your next outfit the center of attention.
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‘Tis the Season
FIVE THINGS
As the Bing Crosby classic song goes, “It’s Christmas time in the city ...” but he probably wasn’t talking about the Catalan capital. While it’s possible to spot some mistletoe and a rare sprinkling of snow, here’s a handful of other traditions that you’ll more likely encounter this time of year (“Nadal”) in Barcelona.
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CAGA TIÓ & CAGANERS
If you don’t already know, the verb cagar in both Catalan and Spanish means “to poop” and it appears in all sorts of common insults and phrases: vés a cagar (“go shit”), em cago en l’hòstia (“I crap on the communion wafer”) and que t’hi cagues (“[so good] that you poop yourself”). This time of year, going number two becomes number one priority, as it’s the centerpiece of two local Christmas traditions here in Catalunya: el Tió (the pooping log) and caganers (pooping figurines). Flip to pages 14-15 for more.
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ÀPATS TRADICIONALS
As if Catalan cuisine couldn’t get any better, there are two àpats tradicionals (traditional meals) that locals wait all year to celebrate with their families. On December 25, it’s typical to eat l’escudella, a stew made using carn de l’olla (meat) broth and sopa de galets (large, snail shaped pasta often filled with meat), along with roast chicken, torrons (nougats) and cava. December 26 is also a holiday in Catalunya — Sant Esteve — in which Catalans prepare canelons, large, meat-filled cannoli-shaped pasta. According to some traditions, single people in the family are supposed to bear the burden of preparing them, but all they have to do is use leftovers from the night before.
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PESSEBRE VIVENT & ELS PASTORETS
Literally translating to a “live nativity scene,” the pessebre vivent invites locals of all ages to participate in a representation of the Christmas story, complete with scenery, costumes and mood lighting. However, els Pastorets takes the theatrics up a notch. Dating back to the 16th century, these traditional community productions combine a brief history of Mary and Joseph with a depiction of the battle between good and evil (angels and devils) and a comedic portrait of Catalan pastors celebrating their first Christmas.
Like giant macaroni, galets are the traditional noodle used in the escudella soup. (See #2 for more.)
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INNOCENTS & CAP D’ANY
In general, folks here don’t get their big Christmas gifts until Reis (Three Kings’ Day; see below). In the meantime, however, on December 28, they celebrate El Dia dels Innocents, their version of April Fool’s Day. And to ring in the Cap d’Any (New Year), you can catch a live show at Montjuïc, during which a bell is rung 12 times leading to midnight. As you hear the bell chime, try to stuff 12 grapes in your mouth — one for each ringing — and then wash it all down with bubbly cava.
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CAVALCADA DE REIS
Forget Santa Claus. Here, kids write their wishlists to the Tres Reis Mags d’Orient (Biblical Magi, Three Kings or Three Wise Men) in hopes to receive presents when they go to bed early on January 5 and wake up the next morning. The kings pass by in cavalcades (traditional parades) both in and outside Barcelona and throw sweets at kids and their families. After opening presents, it’s also common to eat the tortell de reis, a sweet bread with a king and a bean inside. Learn more on page 42.
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IN THE CITY
streetlife
CARRER DELS CANVIS NOUS Back in the Middle Ages, this romantic stretch of El Born near the water was where Barcelona’s canvistes (money changers) did their business. Since then, the area has undergone many canvis (changes) of its own and now it’s home to fine leather shops and quirkiest businesses.
Photo courtesy of Musa bajo el árbol.
MUSA BAJO EL ÁRBOL
No 1 C/ CONSELLERS One look at their collection and the first word that comes to mind is “pop” — not just in terms of color, contrast and shape, but also in culture. The brand seeks to blend art and business with a style that stands out, one in which handmade purses, fanny packs, backpacks and even wallets become the “look” and not just mere accessories. Collaborations with the Fundació Joan Miró and Brain & Beast up the ante with pieces that mix media and have landed Musa in Elle Argentina. Follow them on Instagram at @musabajoelarbol for a peek at their latest offerings. musabajoelarbol.com/en
No 4 C/ CANVIS NOUS Born to Spanish parents in Mexico, actress Isabel Piquer has been obsessed with purses since she was a kid. Over the years, her personal stash grew and grew, yet soon enough she became tired of the lack of originality she saw in the market. Until, that is, she discovered Dampaì by the Italian designer Simona Giovannetti. Instantly, she instantly fell in love with the creative yet smart designs — “perfect for women today!” she says — which is why she’s brought the brand to her own boutique in El Born. The collection blends rubber, silicone, steel, recycled leather and bijoux for a statement-worthy look that pairs fashion and function. facebook.com/dampaibcn
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Photo courtesy of Dampaì Barcelona.
DAMPAÌ BARCELONA
SEVILLA SMITH
No 7 C/ CANVIS NOUS It was originally in El Born that Faye Smith once wandered into a small workshop filled with fabulous footwear and convinced its owner, Niccolo, to teach her his craft. Fast forward and now Faye owns a line of custom leather shoes (and other products), which she produces herself as she splits her time between here in Barcelona, home in Philadelphia and traveling around the world. Whereas machinelasted shoes break the leather fibers and wear out easily, her “handlasted” shoes are nailed at more than 75 points, allowing the leather to fully form to your foot for a beautiful shape and maximum comfort. It’s this tender loving care that explains the high price — that and the other half-dozen special features you can learn more about on her site. sevillasmith.com Photo by Kelli Hix.
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LOU LAB – BONENFANT Photo courtesy of El Flako Corn Flakes & Co.
EL FLAKO CORN FLAKES & CO
No 8 C/ CANVIS NOUS Welcome to the new home of Barcelona’s first cereal café, which was previously located further up in El Born near Sant Pere Més Baix. Customers can create their own bowl from scratch, combining any of El Flako’s 100-plus cereals with 80-plus toppings and various flavored milks. For the indecisive, El Flako also has a menu of constantly changing combinations chosen by the staff to deliver maximum flavor. “We like to think of ourselves as cereal experts,” said employee Nicolás Castán while explaining the rigorous tasting process that goes into crafting each unique mix. They cater to the health-conscious too, with sugar and gluten-free options available, as well as plenty of fresh fruit add-ons. facebook.com/ElFlako.bcn
No 15 C/ AGULLERS Louise and Xabi are the minds behind Lou Lab's brand of bags called Bonenfant, which are trimmed and adorned in French-Spanish tradition. Using the finest quality leather, they create handmade elegant, functional, durable and sustainable handbags, belts and other leather goods, while also working with local tanners. Propose your own products for the Lou Lab team to create by choosing from more than 500 skin strips and buckles for a custom bag or belt. loulab.business.site
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IN THE CITY
EXPLORING XMAS BEYOND BARCELONA TREAT YOURSELF TO A TRIP OUTSIDE THE CITY AND VENTURE TO THESE REGIONAL TOWN HOLIDAY MARKETS TO FIND GIFTS FOR EVERYONE ON YOUR LIST
FIRA DE L'AVET
DECEMBER 1-9: ESPINELVES Directly north of Montseny, Espinelves is known for its forestry — and Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas without the trees. Aficionados choose between the masjoanis tree, which has dark green leaves, a deep pine smell and adapts well to heated houses, and the more common picea excelsa, found all over Europe. The festivities here also include an artisan food market and special menus in the village restaurants. Try Ca l'Angelina (93 884 9204) in the middle of the village for traditional local dishes. espinelves.cat
MERCAT MEDIEVAL DECEMBER 6-9: VIC
The capital of the Osona country takes visitors back to medieval times with stalls throughout the old town that offer decorative items, jewelry, creams, medicinal herbs, clothing, food and more, as well as taverns for eating and drinking local fare. Cultural highlights include the play l'Assalt de l'Altarriba, plus street performers, activities for children and an exhibition of birds of prey such as eagles, hawks, vultures and owls. vicfires.cat/mercat-medieval-vic
FIRA DEL TIÓ
DECEMBER 8: SOLSONA For an authentic Tió de Nadal, head to this majestic medieval town in Lleida for a wide selection of Christmas “pooping” logs and canes made from the local forests, as well as concerts, magic shows and other activities for kids of all ages. In the spirit of giving back, you’ll also find a do-good portion to the tió fair called “Alimenta el tió amb il· lusió,” in which visitors are encouraged to donate food and goods to the Rebost Solidari del Solsonès, to which part of the proceeds from the fair go as well. solsonaturisme.com
Photo by Alberto Romero.
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FIRA DEL GALL
DECEMBER 15-16: VILAFRANCA DEL PENEDÈS Vilafranca is known all over the world for the quality of its wine and cava. Less well known is their superior breed of local poultry, which is for sale at the Christmas gall (rooster) market, including a free slaughtering service from a local escorxador or matadero (slaughterhouse). The star products are the black gall (cockerel) and the Muscovy duck, otherwise known as the “mute” duck because of its inability to quack. Arrive early in the morning to be sure of the best haul and stick around for lunch, as it's a good opportunity to try the town's own version of chicken and chips. For wine and tapas, try Taverna Inzolia, which offers 20 different local wines by the glass every day. firadelgall.cat
Photo by Calafellvalo.
FIRA DE NADAL I DEL TORRÓ ARTESÀ
DECEMBER 14-16: CARDEDEU On Friday evening, a bonfire is lit in the main square of this town in the Vallès Oriental and kept stoked and burning through the fair’s end on Sunday night. Meanwhile, the town's artisans sells goods, including the torró de borrego, made from their traditional borrego pasta. The feasting doesn't stop there though. Throughout the day and into the night, a huge cauldron of escudella (the traditional hot-pot of meat, sausages, legumes and vegetables) is served and washed down with gallons of cava. firadenadal.cat
MERCAT DE NADAL & FIRA DE CAPONS, AVIRAM I MOTIUS NADALENCS (FICAP)
DECEMBER 15-16: VALLS The Mercat de Nadal brings back the old traditions of the ancient market town with fresh fruit and vegetables available on Saturday morning, perfect for accompanying any one of the plump turkeys and chickens for sale over the weekend. From live poultry to wine and champagne, sweets and honey to Christmas trees, there is a wonderful variety of every decorative and handcrafted item that you could possibly need this Christmas. The market, with its street lights, folk traditions, live music and many a nativity scene, is the catalyst for Christmas cheer and the start of all festivities. cambravalls.com
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HISTORY
HOLY CRAP! TWO REASONS WHY CHRISTMAS IN CATALUNYA IS THE SH*T
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Caga Tió It’s not tio as in “uncle” or “guy.” It’s tió meaning “log” and the Tió de Nadal is a special Christmas log that has even the American actress Kate McKinnon hooked. The Tió is given human physical features (eyes, eyebrows, nose, legs, an occasional beard), wrapped in a blanket for warmth and crowned with the traditional red Catalan barretina (hat). Much like putting ornaments on a Christmas tree, it’s customary for the whole family to come together before the Christmas season to create or pick out a Tió and then in the weeks leading up to Christmas the kids take over. Beginning on December 8th, the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, children “feed” the Tió every night using peels from fruits, vegetables and other natural wastes — some say in an attempt to get the children to eat healthy — in hopes that the Tió will excrete more and more goodies for them at Christmas. When the big day arrives (often Christmas Eve or
Photo by Joan C. G.
Christmas Day in some homes), children beat the Tió with sticks so he’ll “drop his load” of candy, figurines and small toys, as well as food and drink for Christmas and Sant Esteve meals, such as turrons (traditional nougat), champagne, dried figs and mandarins. While they hit him, it’s customary to sing a song whose words vary from town to town but the tune stays the same. A typical version goes like this: Caga tió, caga torrons, avellanes i mató, si no cagues bé et daré un cop de bastó. Caga tió!
Shit log, shit nougat, hazelnuts and cheese, if you don’t shit well, I’ll hit you with a stick. Shit log!
Caganer The tradition of the caganer is believed to go back 300 years to an Iberian votive depicting a holy warrior defecating, which was discovered near Tornabous in Urgell. Now you
can find them in the Christmas markets, in the shapes of local and international figures like the Queen of England, Donald Trump, Leo Messi and Spiderman. Originally, the caganer was a necessary figure in the nativity scene. He was thought to bring good luck and happiness to the family, and his fecal droppings were a symbol of wealth and the promise of a productive new year. The caganer is still often placed within the Catalan nativity scene today. Local nativity scenes generally depict the entire town of Bethlehem and the caganer is usually found crouched in a corner. When a Barcelona city-commissioned nativity scene in 2005 didn’t include a caganer, citizens launched a campaign “Salvem el caganer” (save the caganer) and it was restored in 2006. In December 2010, a 19-foot, 8.22-inch caganer was placed in the Maremagnum Shopping Center and grabbed the Guinness World Record for Largest Caganer. This article has been adapted from content in similar articles in Barcelona Metropolitan from 2006 and 2010. 15
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Amy Holden. Photo by Todd Pacey.
FEATURE
GET OUT AND VOTE AMY HOLDEN URGES EU EXPATS TO USE THEIR VOTING RIGHTS By Annette Pacey
A
lthough we live alongside flags fluttering from every balcony and see demonstrations every other weekend, few of us foreign residents in Barcelona attempt to get to grips with the bitterly contested arguments about the future of Catalonia, much less get involved in politics ourselves. But Amy Holden, an Australian of British descent and Barcelona resident for 16 years, is not afraid to roll up her sleeves and get involved. Along with a group of like-minded foreigners and locals, she set up Europeans in Catalonia, which began as a Facebook group in September 2017 and is now an officially registered association with the Catalan Departament de Justícia. Europeans in Catalonia aims to inform citizens of EU countries about their voting rights in Spain and promote participation in the European and municipal elections, which will take place in May 2019. When we meet at her home, overlooking Collserola Park behind Barcelona and out to the Vallès beyond, Amy tells me that she never gave politics a second thought until she sent her son to the local escola bressol (nursery school) in 2011.
“Everything was fine until l’AMPA (Associació de Pares i Mares d'Alumnes, the parents’ association) started to send out political material to the parents’ email addresses. At first it was just about the public services cuts. I was fine with that because the cuts were affecting the school. But then they started calling on parents to come to independence rallies. For me, that crossed a line. Schools should be politically neutral places,” she says. When Amy complained about the emails, she says she was bullied by a group of parents at the school who excluded her from l’AMPA. Worried that the negative atmosphere could affect her son, she felt forced to remove him from the school. “That’s when I woke up,” she says. “I started looking into how I could vote.” Thirty-nine-year-old Amy seems full of energy, her blonde ponytail bobbing as she bustles around her kitchen making me coffee, dispatching medicine to her husband, who is sick in bed, and taking a business call in fluent Spanish — all with a baby on her hip. As well as running her own business and taking care of her two small boys, Amy has found time to qualify as a psychologist specialized in perinatal psychology. As if that’s not enough,
Europeans in Catalonia aims to inform citizens of EU countries about their voting rights in Spain and promote participation in the European and municipal elections, which will take place in May 2019.
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Amy filming video on voting rights. Photo by Todd Pacey.
she’s also in the process of setting up a weekly radio program on Barcelona City FM. Born in the suburbs of Adelaide, Australia, to Britishimmigrant parents, Amy remembers asking her father if she was Australian or British. “He told me that I was a bit of both, and explained that I was entitled to my British passport, which meant I could move freely around Europe. I think that’s what planted the seed in my head,” she says. Like many Antipodeans before her, Amy made the pilgrimage to London in her early twenties. She started working as a consultant for a software company and — just for fun — took Spanish classes in the evenings. When her company offered her the opportunity to transfer to Madrid, she jumped at the chance. But she found the sprawling Spanish capital unmanageably large and much preferred the compact, intimate feel of Barcelona, where she often visited clients. “I was really drawn to Barcelona and felt immediately at home here. My client companies were smaller but more dynamic and innovative than the large corporate clients I worked with in Madrid,” she tells me. Eventually, she left her job and started her own company: a brand of science-based educational toys. When she met her Catalan husband Fernando in Barcelona in 2002, the city became her permanent home. 18
It took Amy several visits to the local ajuntament (city council) to figure out that in order to register to vote, EU nationals need to be empadronats (enrolled as a resident in their local district) and fill out an additional form to officially declare their intention to vote. With her paperwork finally in order, Amy showed up at her local polling station on election day in September 2015 determined to cast her ballot. “When we got there, they told me I wasn’t on the list. I said that was impossible — I had brought the form with the official stamp on it with me because I’d had a sense that it might not be easy. I think they just wanted to get rid of me, but I insisted we call the Instituto Nacional de Estadística [which houses the records] to check. It turned out that there was a separate list for foreigners, which neither I nor the people who were staffing the table were aware of,” she explains. In Spain, ordinary citizens on the electoral roll are randomly selected to staff the tables at polling stations, similar to jury service. Amy fears that most don’t receive clear instructions about how to find foreigners on the list. “I was eventually able to exercise my right to vote, but while it was being sorted out, four other foreigners came in and left without being able to do so,” she says. Posting about her frustration on Facebook, Amy
soon came across others who had similar concerns, and together they formed a Facebook group that has now evolved into the aforementioned Europeans in Catalonia. The association is still in its infancy, with around 45 paid members, plus another 500 in the Facebook group. Amy describes the members as a mix of European nationalities, plus a few locals who are concerned about the political situation in Catalonia. Some are emphatically against the formation of an independent Catalan republic, not least because the European Commission has stated, “If a referendum were to be organised in line with the Spanish Constitution it would mean that the territory leaving would find itself outside of the European Union.” “Our immediate campaign is to encourage citizens of EU countries in Catalonia to use their voting rights in the municipal and European elections,” explains Amy. “We realized that with approximately 445,000 citizens of EU countries resident in Catalonia [a figure in line with the 2017 Statistical Yearbook of Catalonia] we could really make a difference. In the longer term, we want to press the EU for a treaty change that would allow citizens of EU countries who make use of free movement to be able to vote in national elections in their host nation,” she says. It's an ambitious goal for such a small organization; currently, enfranchisement is designated as a state competence by the EU Parliament, which means member states decide for themselves who can participate in their national elections. The members of Europeans in Catalonia make up for their low numbers with dedication and
enthusiasm, printing leaflets, creating videos for their YouTube channel and staffing a stall at Barcelona International Community Day last October. They are also collaborating with the EU Parliament’s “This Time I’m Voting” campaign to promote participation in the European parliamentary elections.
“I was eventually able to exercise my right to vote, but while it was being sorted out, four other foreigners came in and left without being able to do so.” Maybe it’s because she was born in Australia, but Amy has always seen her rights as the citizen of an EU country as a valuable privilege. She tells me that her small business, which exports products to other European countries, simply wouldn’t be viable if it weren’t based within the single market. She worries that there is a danger of people in Catalonia taking their membership of the EU for granted when the pros and cons of an independent Catalan republic are debated. “This topic needs to be part of the conversation,” Amy says firmly. “Finding ourselves outside the EU would be a disaster and we need EU citizens in Catalonia to make sure that doesn’t happen by using their voting rights.”
How EU Citizens in Barcelona Can Register to Vote: Citizens of EU member states have the right to vote in the municipal (council and mayoral) elections and the European elections.The next elections will be held in May 2019. (Despite plans for Brexit, British residents in Spain will still be able to vote in these European elections according to the Instituto Nacional de Estadística).
2. At the same time, fill out a form to register on the electoral census, remembering to tick the boxes to declare your intention to vote.
HERE’S WHAT YOU HAVE TO DO TO GET REGISTERED TO VOTE:
For those who are already empadronats it’s possible to add your name to the electoral census directly at the Oficina del Censo Electoral, Via Laietana 8.
1. Get empadronat/empadronada (enrolled as a resident) at your local ajuntament (city council). For this you will need your passport, NIE and proof of address, which is most easily done by providing the original copy of your lease agreement with your name on it.
Before the election, you should receive a polling card in the mail with details of where to go to vote. On election day, remember that the people staffing the polling station might not be aware that foreigners are registered on a separate list behind the main list so please ask that they check it for your name.
Before you go, make a cita prèvia (appointment) at your ajuntament or at the citywide Oficina d'Atenció Ciutadana in Plaça Sant Miquel, which you can do online or by calling 010.
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HOW I LEARNED A LANGUAGE FOUR TIMES FASTER THE NEW YEAR IS ON THE HORIZON AND WITH IT, THE ANNUAL RESOLUTIONS. IF IMPROVING YOUR LANGUAGE SKILLS IS ON YOUR LIST OF THINGS TO TACKLE IN 2019, THIS MIGHT BE A GOOD PLACE TO START. By Ian Gibbs
L
et’s not beat about the bush. I hated Spanish in school. The only reason why I took the subject was because I was told I had to. If you got an “A” you were great. If you got a “C” you passed. I was the only person in my school who got an “F,” which pretty much summed up my attitude toward learning foreign languages. Forty years later, things have changed. After living here in Barcelona for 28 years, my Spanish is reasonably fluent, which is not remarkable, given the circumstances. Sadly, what is remarkable is that this is exactly what I had been doing with the other language in Barcelona: Catalan. For the most part, I’d created a Catalan-free world. Even in restaurants, I was able to ignore the Catalan on the menu and solely focus on the Spanish (or English, if it was an option). I’m embarrassed to say it, but I was completely incapable of having any sort of meaningful conversation beyond “Bon dia.” But here’s the thing, all of that changed when I was given a challenge by my publisher.
But, of course, it can be done. Millions of people successfully learn a new language. Some learn more than one. So I started to do some research on what the experts do. I looked at their websites. I listened to their TED talks. I read their books. What I learned was that acquiring new language skills is not a question of talent or time. It’s a question of technique. I can say this with hand on heart because I — the person with the wrong attitude for languages, who failed Spanish at school and took 20+ years to learn it in Barcelona — successfully learned to converse in Catalan in under half a year. To be precise I went from “false beginner” (unable to hold basic conversations) to passing my intermediate B1 exam in five months, the equivalent of two years’ worth of studying for most. You’re probably asking yourself “So what are these techniques? Come on, spit them out!” With the space available there’s no way I can go into depth with all of them. But these are the techniques that have served me the most.
Make mistakes
I went from “false beginner” (unable to hold basic conversations) to passing my intermediate B1 exam in five months. “How quickly could you learn a language if you did a little every day?” she asked over a coffee on Rambla Catalunya. “I’ve no idea,” I replied. “OK. Then why not find out and write a book about it?”And thus my book, “Learning a Language: How I managed it. How you can too,” came to pass. At first, I was a total disaster. It’s easy to say to yourself, “I’ll learn a little every day,” but what exactly do you learn? And how? After a few weeks of irregular verbs and grammar, my inner voice started talking: “This is pointless. You’re wasting your time. It can’t be done.” 20
I have a friend who we’ll call Pat. She’s been living in Barcelona for five years and although she’s tried to learn Spanish, she can’t speak a word. The reason is she’s terrified of looking stupid, of getting it wrong and embarrassing herself. This, ironically, is possibly the biggest mistake she could make. Everyone trying to speak a new language makes mistakes, lots of them. In fact, according to polyglot Benny Lewis, you should expect to be making 100+ mistakes a day. Making mistakes is part of the process and shows you’re trying. And trying is what counts. The only thing Pat has learned is to keep her mouth shut in social situations. And the more she does it, the harder it becomes to change. So try to adopt a playful attitude towards your new language. And when you get it wrong, don’t feel bad.
Language exchange partner If you want to learn how to swim, you don’t read books about it. You jump in and have a go at it. Language is just the same. You meet up for a coffee (or Skype) and practice speaking a real language with a real
Ian Gibbs. Photo by Diana Delgado Pineda.
person. It’ll be excruciatingly uncomfortable to start. After a few more times, you wonder what all the fuss was about. During my five months of study, I had four language partners, one of whom I still meet up with two years later. Don’t worry about your level being too low. So long as their level of English is good enough to communicate, you can start trying and converse. It gives you so many advantages: You can control the speed and direction of the conversation, you get to speak for half the time and they’re (usually) totally free, which is brilliant. And you just might make a good friend, too.
Phrases and expressions For learning fast, nothing beats learning whole phrases and expressions. For example, thanks to the lyrics of the song “Lady Marmalade,” most of the planet already knows how to say voulez-vous coucher avec moi, ce soir? without having any idea of the grammar (or practical implications) involved at all. During your language exchange, pay attention to useful phrases. “Have you heard about …?” “Could you tell me what’s the difference between…?” and “I’ll send you a WhatsApp when I find out” all involve complicated grammar, which basic language classes stay well away from. But there’s no reason at all why you couldn’t learn them as useful expressions, even if you’re a beginner. My eight-year-olds haven’t a clue about conditionals, imperatives and subjunctives, but that doesn’t stop them from running about and using them.
Revise briefly and often How many spare minutes do you have during a normal day? Could you find a minute before you get up? How about one during breakfast? Or on the metro? You get the idea, don’t you? I bet you could easily find a dozen separate minutes throughout your day. And with each one you could go over your new phrases and expressions. How? Get a revision app such as AnkiApp, which is simple and effective. Similar to making flashcards, you put in all the useful expressions you want to learn along with their translations. Then in each revision session, the app challenges you to remember ten of them, or more if you prefer. You grade your ability to recall each one on a scale: easy, good, difficult or fail. In your next session, the app remembers what you’re struggling with and tests you on the trickier ones more than the easier ones. Flipping through ten expressions takes a trivial amount of time, so you can do it often. And the more you do it, the more you’ll realize learning one or two phrases a day is easy. If you combine these four techniques and stick to them for a few weeks, you’ll impress yourself (as well as your friends and family) with how quickly you can learn to converse in your new language. And if I can do it, you certainly can, too. It’s just a question of applying yourself in the most effective way and discovering for yourself that it’s possible to learn a language quickly as an adult, regardless of the grades you got as a kid. 21
music
IN CONCERT
DECEMBER 2nd. Larkin Poe. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 4th. The Vaccines. Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 7th. Compota de Manana. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 11th. Meridian Brothers. La [2] de Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 111. 14th. Ilegales. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 15th. Queen Tribute. Break Free! Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 15th. Dele Sosimi Afrobeat Orchestra. Marula Café. Escudellers 49. 15th. Hibernacle Pop Up Club #3. Plaza Mayor de El Poble Espanyol. Av Francesc Ferrer i Guardia 13. 21st. Charleston Choir Voices. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 22nd. 100 years of Leonard Bernstein and the American Musical. L’Auditori. Lepant 150.
Photo courtesy of elrow.
ELROW WINTER SERIES
ELROW. DECEMBER 8, DECEMBER 25 AND JANUARY 1. On a ranch best reached by shuttle bus outside Barcelona sits the party headquarters of the city’s biggest entertainment brand: elrow (see more on page 28). Underneath the motto “together we make magic happen,” elrow hosts notoriously popular events that blend great electronic music, talented theater performers and dazzling decorations. Although elrow has a strong presence across the globe, their spiritual home is in Barcelona, where partygoers can expect the high-quality hedonism that has cemented elrow’s place in the blowout hall of fame. elrow.com/en/events/upcoming
27th. Rudo. L’Auditori. Lepant 150. 28th. Niña Pastori. Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 29th. Tarque. Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113.
NEW YEAR’S EVE CONCERT
Salvador Brotons. Photo by © May Zircus, courtesy of L’Auditori.
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L’AUDITORI. DECEMBER 29-30. The Strauss family was a musical one. Father and sons played the violin and livened up the balls held in Vienna. The father played at dances for the emperor and the nobility in their palaces, meanwhile the sons played in cafés for the locals. Who came out on top? We did, as now we are left with masterpieces that cross the divide between classical and popular music to become joyful, rhythmical and hopeful works. In this rendition, conductor Salvador Brotons has chosen a range of pieces from the Strauss repertoire and added Tchaikovsky’s most lively and Christmas-y music, as well as two love songs: the aria, “My lips kiss with such passion,” and the famous kiss waltz, “I don’t want jewels or pearls, a kiss from you is my only treasure.” (Adapted from L’Auditori.) auditori.cat/en/new-years-eve-concert
Maria Hinojosa. Photo by © May Zircus, courtesy of L’Auditori.
CHRISTMAS CONCERT
L’AUDITORI. DECEMBER 25. As L’Auditori tells us, “music is the engine of life,” and this festive season, the engine is revving as they return with their anticipated annual Christmas Concert. This year’s incarnation is imbued with a wonderful selection of music to ring in the holiday cheer. From the native melodies and rhythms that Brahms and Liszt borrowed from the peoples of central Europe, to the Catalan music and poetry that Raimon has been performing on stages for the past 50 years, this eclectic collection is sure to inspire festive spirit. And with the 125th anniversary of the Banda Municipal de Barcelona now upon us, a new version of Joan Guinjoan’s choral work “Foc d’aucell” has been commissioned to mark the special occasion. (Adapted from L’Auditori.) auditori.cat/en/christmas-concert-1
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24 TRIBUTE TO JANIS JOPLIN “Take another little piece of my heart now, baby!” La Kozmic Band takes on the music of Janis Joplin. Sarau 08911. 23:30-1:30.
HAPPENS OR IT DIDN’T PIC EXHIBITION New York-based Italian artists Eva and Franco Mattes present their first solo exhibition in Spain. Blueproject Foundation. Now through January 13.
UB40 Concert by the English pop, reggae and dub band that has 50 hits to their name in the U.K. and has sold 70 million discs over nearly four decades. Razzmatazz. 20:00.
A social drink gathering every Wednesday for the LGTBIQ+ community at one of Barcelona’s most popular gay bars. Punto BCN. 18:00.
Jazz and flamenco meet as the singer, dancer and actress from Córdoba presents her latest album “La Enamorada.” Luz de Gas. 21:00.
Part of a recurring series of conferences dedicated to examining the characteristics of the urban Italian reality. Istituto Italiano di Cultura di Barcelona. 18:30.
5GAY FRIENDLY AFTERWORK
4MARIOLA MEMBRIVES
3ITALIAN CITIES
3
WED NE SDAY
2
TUE SDAY
1
M ONDAY
THE SWING BALLROOM Where the lindyhoppers of Barcelona all meet up! Try out swing, ballroom and lindyhop with the Barcelona SwingCats. Almo2bar. 22:00-1:00.
Every Thursday! Tapas in tacos from 2€ — new tacos every month! — plus a different DJ set every week. La Porca. 19:00-23:00.
6TAPAS IN TACO FORMAT
1
T HURSDAY
NIGHTLIFE IN BARCELONA TOUR Free every Friday! Get to know the dirty and crazy history of a very different Barcelona: a city of sex, drugs and absinthe. Pla de la Seu. 21:00-23:00.
Carrying her ancestral voice in all her music, La Malinche delivers a mix of rancheras, boleros, cumbia, and even rumba catalana. Harlem Jazz Club. 20:30.
7LA MALINCHE QUINTETO
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FRIDAY
SUN DAY
ELROW CHINESE ROW YEAR An all-day bash at elrow’s unforgettable headquarters in Viladecans. Elrow. 11:00-23:00.
Music and dance performances showcasing flamenco rhythms fused with Spanish classical music. Oracles Theatre. 20:30-22:00.
8SONTRES
WE LOVE CATS MARKET The 7th annual handmade goods market whose proceeds go toward helping abandoned cats in Barcelona. CREC Coworking. December 1-2. 11:00-19:00.
It’s the “Sant Jordi of the winter season,” a full day of activities that combine the spirit of Christmas with the love of books. Antiga Fàbrica Estrella Damm. 11:00-21:00.
CARMEN BY BIZET Staged production of the classic opera that takes place in Sevilla and the Andalusian countryside of Spain in the early 19th century. Palau de la Música Catalana. 18:30.
GOLDEN AGE A selection of works related to the master Spanish painter Diego Velázquez. Now through March 3, 2019. Caixaforum. 10:00-20:00.
9VELÁZQUEZ AND THE
LOOKING WITH OUR FINGERS Interactive art activities for families using a sensory exercise used by Miró’s teachers. Fundació Joan Miró. 11:00.
PICOS” The award-winning flamenco guitarist and composer presents his latest work: a symphonic poem by Enric Granados, inspired by Dante’s “Divine Comedy.” L’Auditori. 11:00. (Also on December 1 at 19:00).
1MERCAT DE NADAL DEL LLIBRE 2FALLA’S “EL SOMBRERO DE TRES
SAT URDAY
DECEMBER 2018
THIS MONTH
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18 CHICAGO MASS CHOIR
The Grammy-nominated and Stella Award-winning American gospel group returns to Barcelona to perform their latest work “Connecting Souls.” Sala Barts. 21:00.
17 LAKOLMENA
Twelve percussionists give a spectacular world music performance. La Nau. 20:00.
CHRISTMAS EVE DINNER A special dinner feast from Bear on Bike catered to people far from home or anyone who doesn’t feel like cooking on Christmas Eve. Espai EGG. 20:00-23:00.
Stay up late and begin this Christmas with Gregorian chants in the heart of Born. Basílica Santa Maria del Mar. Midnight.
24 MIDNIGHT MASS
25 Big Jamboree, Flamingo Tours and Rocking Horse all perform for this year’s charity fundraiser. Sala Apolo. 18:00. CIUTAT DEL SOMNIS A new family festival where little ones explore different activities that might help to spark future career interests. Fira Barcelona Montjuïc, Hall 1-3. Now through December 31. 9:30-16:00.
JAUME PLENSA EXHIBITION Dedicated to the renowned Catalan artist, featuring his work from the 1980s to the present day. MACBA. Now through April 22, 2019.
ND
27 2 XUKLIS FESTIVAL
GROOVE JAZZ DJ & SAX A Thursday groove jazz afterwork with a DJ and new musical artist every week. Vivo Tapa Restaurant. 21:15.
The tropical music artist gives an intimate, unplugged performance. Koitton Club. 21:00-23:00.
This St. Stephen’s Day, attend an evening service paying homage to the life of the revered saint. Basílica Santa Maria del Mar. 19:30.
26 SANT ESTEVE
BARCELONA CHRISTMAS GALA An elegant night of classical Christmas music. Palau de la Música Catalana. 20:30.
The very poetic Spanish artist Muerdo plays his exquisite mix of folkloric rhythms. Sala Apolo. 21:00-23:30.
20 OYE! SEBAS "FIN DE GIRA"
FARRUCOS AND FERNÁNDEZ A Christmas spectacle with Spain’s most famous flamenco family. Sala Apolo. 21:45-00:15.
Pick up a brush, sip a refreshment and become an artist for a day as you create a masterpiece for your own home. Sandwichez Floridablanca. 19:30-21:30.
13 SALIR CON ARTE BARCELONA
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MUCHO MUCHACHO The Spanish rapper presents his latest solo project. Sala Apolo. 20:30.
A free public dance gathering for anyone who wants to learn traditional Catalan dances. La Casa dels Entremesos. 20:15-21:15
21 FRIDAY BALL
OPEN WORKS. ART IN MOVEMENT, 1955-1975 An extensive and carefully selected collection of works of art from 37 international artists that looks at the evolution of interactive/kinetic art. Casa Milà (La Pedrera). Now through January 27, 2019.
Rising Berlin techno DJ and producer plays at Barcelona’s “Techno Cathedral” in Poble Espanyol. INPUT High Fidelity Dance Club. Midnight to 6:00.
14 KOBOSIL
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THE SECRET INVESTMENTS 'N' COMPANY Tonia Richardson and Tito Bonacera lead a quintet of soul, R&B and groove artists as they serves up strong and organic melodies with an electronic vibe. Jamboree. 20:00-22:00.
Film experts discuss Kubrick’s war films in a free chat that goes hand-in-hand with the current Kubrick exhibition at CCCB. CCCB. 18:30-20:00.
22 KUBRICK AT WAR
BEBE The Spanish singer-songwriter closes out her world tour as she performs her biggest hits in Barcelona. Sala Barts. 21:00.
Barcelona participates in the fourth edition of a simultaneous festival around the globe that celebrates and promotes short films. CCCB. 18:00-00:00.
15 THE SHORTEST DAY
30/31
PER NADAL A family show of popular songs, compositions and Christmas spirit appropriate for kids as young as two years old. Poble Espanyol. 12:00-13:25.
DISSENY A holiday market with emerging local brands in fashion, interior design, music, gastronomy and art. Estació de França. 11:00-20:00. (Also on December 22.)
23 CHRISTMAS MARKET ESTACIÓ
LIVE BODIES EXHIBITION An eye-opening educational journey through the human body using real human bodies. CC Arenas de Barcelona, 3rd floor. Now through February 28, 2019.
The jazz quartet revisits the classics, with a repertoire of songs by Ella Fitzgerald, Etta James, Sarah Vaughan and Rosemary Clooney. Jamboree. 20:00 and 22:00.
16 MAGNOLIA
MORE INFORMATION AND EVENTS ON DECEMBER 30-31, VISIT OUR WEBSITE BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM
ALICJA KWADE First solo show in Spain by the Polish contemporary visual artist. Blueproject Foundation. Now through April 21, 2019.
AMERICAN SOCIETY HAPPY HOUR Join the ASB to meet fellow expats and network in the English language community. All are welcome! Location to be announced at: amersoc.com. 20:00-23:00
SILVIA PÉREZ CRUZ & MARCO MEZQUIDA The well-known Catalan singersongwriter performs with her pianist partner to explore the organic ways their love for music unites them. Palau de la Música Catalana. 21:00.
PEDRO JAVIER GONZÁLEZ One of the most acclaimed Flamenco guitarists plays in one of the most enchanting buildings in Barcelona. Santa Maria del Pi. 21:00-22:15.
OPEN MIC NIGHT Free show featuring original talent and live music from all over the world. Belushi’s. 20:30.
The best nomadic musicians get together to explore new ways to perform traditional European and Mediterranean gypsy music. El Foro Restaurant. 21:00.
Every Tuesday: Free workshop to learn the different types of the traditional Catalan bastons dance. La Casa dels Entremesos. 19:00-20:30.
Barcelona’s original fair dedicated to nativity and Christmas traditions. Now celebrating 262 years! Plaça de la Seu. Now through December 23. 11:00-20:30. (Holidays and vigils: 10:00-21:30.)
19 MUERDO
11 12 BALL DE BASTONS WORKSHOP JAM SESSION GYPSY BALKAN
10 FIRA DE SANTA LLÚCIA
misc DINNERS THAT MATTER 15+ PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS ACROSS THE CITY.
DECEMBER 12. The concept behind Dinners That Matter is simple: Go out for a delicious meal and help raise funds for the less fortunate. The dinners happen once every season and this season, participating restaurants across Barcelona have agreed to donate 25% of their dinner profits on December 12th to the Fundació Alzheimer Catalunya to support people with Alzheimer’s disease. This includes recreational and medical visits, as well as essential clinical support. In short: tasty food, good company and a worthwhile cause. Head to their website to learn more about the program and find out which restaurants are involved. dinnersthatmatter.org
La vida de calabacin. Photochrome. Photo courtesy of CCCB.
STORIES OF EVERYDAY LIFE
CCCB. DECEMBER 27 TO JANUARY 4. This holiday season, the CCCB brings quality festive entertainment in the form of family-friendly film screenings. The collection of animated holiday films focuses on the ordinary lives of adults and children: the good times, the difficult times, what can happen and what might happen. We get a glimpse into the humor, imagination, love and optimism of the stars of these charming and eloquent animated films. The screenings include a selection of shorts that last less than 10 minutes, as well as full-length feature films, catering to both light-hearted dropins and more dedicated viewing. With English, Spanish and Catalan versions of films available, the program also offers a chance to squeeze in some extra language practice. And, best of all, each screening is free. Get into the Christmas spirit at CCCB Hall, suspend your disbelief and enjoy the beautiful selection of tales on screen. cccb.org 26
HUMAN BODIES
CC ARENAS DE BARCELONA. NOW THROUGH FEBRUARY 28. With over 12 whole bodies and 150 human organs, this exhibition provides an astounding look at what goes on under our skin. Using Gunther von Hagens’ famous plastination technique for the preservation of biological material, Human Bodies provides visitors with the opportunity to study and understand the human body more deeply and appreciate the true brilliance of nature. Entry includes an audio guide in Catalan, Spanish, English and more. With the exception of holiday hours, the exhibition welcomes visitors any day of the week from 10:00 to 20:00. Stop by to learn more and be fascinated by the internal tinkerings of the incredible human body. humanbodies.eu
ALFRED HITCHCOCK’S “VERTIGO” WITH ORCHESTRA
ARIBAU MULTICINES. C/ ARIBAU, 8-10. DECEMBER 16. To celebrate its 60th anniversary, Alfred Hitchcock’s “Vertigo” will be presented in a special screening by the Balaña Group. The film’s sensational score by Bernard Herrmann will be performed live by the prestigious Orquestra Simfònica Camera Musicae. Under the direction of Anthony Gabriele, over 60 musicians take the stage to provide a fresh spin on this classic psychological thriller about passion and obsession that Britain’s Sight & Sound magazine called “the best movie in film history.” Now Barcelonians can enjoy it live in all its symphonic splendor. grupbalana.com
Photo courtesy of Human Bodies.
27
MAKING MAGIC HAPPEN
Photo courtesy of elrow.
BEHIND ONE OF BARCELONA’S BIGGEST LIVE ENTERTAINMENT BRANDS By Chris Richardson
From its humble beginnings as a small café, the Arnau family empire has grown into the behemoth now known as elrow. Their parties are renowned for their unique brand of hedonism that includes a dazzling selection of music, costumes and performance art, bringing the best in electronic sounds to revellers in Barcelona and across the globe. Barcelona Metropolitan caught up with elrow CEO Juan Arnau to find out how he plans to continue his family’s 150-year legacy. What makes Barcelona such a special place for elrow? Of course, we love all the usual things: the beach, food, small size and international vibe – Barcelona’s energy matches the elrow family ethos, to “make magic happen.” When our club first opened its doors here eight years ago, Barcelona was the perfect spot to nurture our core concept. We couldn’t have achieved the same results elsewhere. How did elrow go from family business to a venture capital-backed brand? As a small business, we had two options: remain confined to Southern Europe or think big and go global. We wanted to bring our brand to the world, so going global meant either approaching a bank or speaking with investors. Superstruct, backed by Providence Equity Partners, ultimately proved to be the best partner. We make a great team because they care about our audiences and values, not just the numbers.
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“underground” in going more “mainstream,” but we see these partnerships as a way of bringing smiles to more people. They legitimize our work and allow us to focus on what is most important: being more creative and bringing joy to our audiences. How does elrow keep things fresh? It’s not easy, and that’s why having such a solid foundation in Barcelona is so important. It’s our spiritual home and allows us to get creative. At the end of the day, our business is like any other business: If you want to survive, you have to innovate, transgress, surprise. Our team of creatives are always hard at work to keep bringing the “wow” factor to audiences. With that in mind, what’s next for elrow and live entertainment at large?
With big global investors, has the live entertainment industry lost a little of its magic?
The market is saturated, and people realize that they need to differentiate themselves in more interesting ways. Hopefully we’ll see more weird and wonderful offerings. For us, it means growth. Next year we’re hitting new cities and increasing our number of shows, including a new boutique festival at a ski resort in Granada’s Sierra Nevada alongside our existing festival presence. And, of course, some new and exciting parties in Barcelona and beyond.
More people are paying particular attention to festivals and nightlife, and in recent years the industry has grown and matured a lot. Some might complain about the loss of the
elrow’s winter season comes to Barcelona this month, with events at their flagship club in Viladecans on December 8 and 25 and January 1.
badi
SPONSORED
How I found my roommate on
PHILIPPE, 42, IS ORIGINALLY FROM FRANCE AND HAS BEEN LIVING IN BARCELONA SINCE 2002. HE LIVES IN A TWO-BEDROOM APARTMENT IN EL BORN WITH HIS ROOMMATE, JAVIER, WHO HE MET ON THE APP BADI.
What was it like to find your roommate on Badi?
as opposed to having random multiple strangers enter my home.
I’m lucky to live in a very beautiful space and I had lots of requests from roommates within days of listing my spare room. It can be intimidating to meet new people as a foreigner in a big city and using the app really helped me to overcome that anxiety. I was looking to live with another professional, someone mature. After that, it’s all about the chemistry you have with a person. When you feel it, you know. I found a profile of someone I liked on Badi and we gave it a try. It’s now been a few months living together and it’s working great.
What is the dynamic like given your different schedules?
Why opt for finding a roommate on Badi as opposed to renting out the room on a vacation rental platform? Aside from the new laws surrounding vacation rental, it’s not an ideal dynamic. I’d tried it in the past and became increasingly frustrated with constantly being a “host.” Checking in, checking out, cleaning the apartment ... It can be quite exhausting. It’s also a complete gamble as to whether or not you’re going to have a connection with the person. Now, I’m not a host. I share my space with somebody,
For us, it’s great. I work typical hours during the week and like to spend my time off enjoying the city. Javier has almost the opposite schedule. Sometimes we go a long time without bumping into one another! But again, the Badi app gave me the flexibility to find the kind of arrangement I was looking for. We live our own independent lives but share the communal spaces, and he often offers to cook for me after work. Given that I often travel, it’s great knowing that there is someone reliable back at the house. The flexibility is definitely an advantage to other approaches I’ve tried in the past.
Any words of wisdom for potential Badi users? I have found the process of living with a roommate to be very natural and haven’t any complaints. Just be honest about who you are and what you’re looking for. Only speak with people who you sense will be a good match with your lifestyle and try to get a sense of the connection you have with the person. Most of all, enjoy it. badi.com
Photo by Diana Delgado Pineda.
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art VELÁZQUEZ Y EL SIGLO DE ORO
CAIXAFORUM. NOW THROUGH MARCH 3. In the 15th and 16th centuries, Spain dominated much of Europe as well as the Americas, East Indies and Low Countries. Arts and literature flourished, too, giving rise to the term Siglo de Oro (Golden Age). Sevilla-born Diego de Velázquez produced some of the most renowned paintings of the period and served as a model for 19thcentury realist and impressionist painters and 20th-century modern artists. This new exhibition at CaixaForum takes seven works from Velázquez and assembles them alongside 50 works from artists across time and space, such as Rubens, Bruegel the Elder, van Dyck, Zurbarán and more — plus some artists still alive today — in a curatorial effort to bring together otherwise-isolated schools of art and better understand the originality of Velázquez as a visual narrator. caixaforum.es
Diego Velázquez, Prince Baltasar Carlos on Horseback, 1634-35. Oil on canvas. © Museo Nacional del Prado.
STRUCTURES OF IDENTITY. THE WALTHER COLLECTION
J.D. ‘Okhai Ojeikere, Untitled [Hairstyles], 1970-79. © The artist. Courtesy of The Walther Collection and Magnin-A Gallery, Paris.
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FOTO COLECTANIA. NOW THROUGH FEBRUARY 17. The power of identity through portraiture has long been contemplated by photographers and in this new exhibition featuring curated pieces from the German-American Walther Collection, concepts of identity are explored through gender, socio-economic class, culture and nationality. Among the more than 100 images here, the work of J.D.’Okhai Ojeikere cannot go unnoticed. By formally documenting ornate Nigerian hairstyles, the photographer considers hairdos as markers of culture and works of delicate art. Other iconic works from August Sander, Richard Avedon and Seydou Keïta, alongside contemporary photographers like Samuel Fosso, Zanele Muholi and Zhang Huan, uniquely illustrate their investigations of identity through portraits and challenge the constructs and signifiers of what actually informs us about the subject’s identity. walthercollection.com
Photo courtesy of Arts Santa Mònica.
L’ESCLAT DELS CÒMICS
ARTS SANTA MONICA. NOW THROUGH JANUARY 20. The phenomenal birth of comic books in the United States created a sensation that rapidly spread across the globe. In this new exhibition, the comic book is critically examined to help explain its trajectory into contemporary Spanish culture. From its beginnings in American newspapers in the late 1800s to the post-Spanish Civil War era and up until today, the comic as a medium has gone on quite the journey. Although Spanish comic artists drew inspiration from their own political landscapes and early Spanish soap operas, it would be hard to imagine Spanish comics at all without the birth of American comics. Some North American characters even crossed borders into Europe and were adapted to better suit Spanish audiences. Visit to find out more about the evolution and impact of this fascinating and often-overlooked artistic medium. artssantamonica.gencat.cat
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art SURVIVAL PROGRAMMES. EXIT PHOTOGRAPHY GROUP
LA VIRREINA CENTRE DE IMATGE. NOW THROUGH FEBRUARY 17. The Exit Photography Group trio, Nicholas Battye, Chris Steele-Perkins and Paul Trevor, helped to form part of the movement to politicize documentary photographic culture in Great Britain throughout the seventies. Their group highlighted seven of the United Kingdom’s impoverished urban communities (London, Birmingham, Liverpool, Newcastle, Middlesbrough, Glasgow Lunch, Maryhill, Glasgow, Scotland, 1975 © Chris Steele-Perkins. Photo courtesy of La Virreina. and Belfast) from 1974 up until 1979, and for the first time in Spain, viewers can now experience the full collection. While focusing on Britain’s inner cities, the photographers also documented four essential elements in the lives of working class people — growth, promise, welfare and reaction — and a series of dialogues with people who came from the socio-economic contexts being explored. ajuntament.barcelona.cat/lavirreina
WOMEN IN PRISON, EMPATHETIC INVESTIGATION
MECÀNIC. NOW THROUGH JANUARY 9. New York-born and Paris-based photographer Jane Evelyn Atwood works primarily with people living on the fringes of society, carefully exploring disadvantaged and challenging social situations. Her Yard privileges for solitary confinement prisoners: one half hour a day in outdoor cages. Perm Penal Colony for Women, Perm, former U.S.S.R., 1990. ten-year-long photography project is © Jane Evelyn Atwood. an empathetic investigation that elegantly sheds light on life for women behind bars. It began in 1989 and involved Atwood visiting some of the world’s toughest jails, to which she was initially denied access. This exhibition includes a series of 60 original vintage photographs from a 2011 retrospective at the Maison Européenne de la Photographie in Paris, showcasing women in penitentiary centers and inmates on death row. mecanic.eu/jane-evelyn-atwood 32 A | WHAT’S ON
2018: A KUBRICK ODYSSEY
ART REVIEW
ON THE HEELS OF ITS SUCCESS IN CITIES WORLDWIDE, INCLUDING PARIS AND LOS ANGELES, THE HIGHLY ANTICIPATED STANLEY KUBRICK RETROSPECTIVE ARRIVES IN BARCELONA
“2001: A Space Odyssey,” direceted by Stanley Kubrick (1965-68; GB/United States). Film still. © Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc.
CHRIS RICHARDSON REVIEWS THE STANLEY KUBRICK RETROSPECTIVE EXHIBITION AT THE CCCB. NOW THROUGH MARCH 31.
I
n 1947, a time in which global nuclear war seemed highly probable, the Bulletin of the Atomic Scientists created what is known as the “Doomsday Clock,” an imaginary clock developed to help quantify the likelihood of a human-caused global catastrophe. Midnight designated the point of armageddon and, working backward from that point, earlier times indicated diminishing nuclear threat. The Bulletin still meets periodically to update the time, which, as of January 2018 sits at 11:58 — a mere two minutes to midnight, the smallest-ever number on record since 1953 when the United States and Soviet Union began testing hydrogen bombs. The clock was popularized in Stanley Kubrick’s 1964 political satire “Dr. Strangelove,” which cleverly explored our unrelenting capacity for selfdestruction.And as we sit precariously at 11:58 — teetering on the cusp of global nuclear or environmental meltdown — Kubrick’s work, like the prophetic clock, remains as relevant today as ever. With that in mind, the CCCB presents a comprehensive and timely exhibition of the director’s prolific career. As Kubrick noted: “If it can be written, or thought, it can be filmed.” Indeed, if it can be collected, it can be curated, too. The teams in each of the cities that the exhibition previously visited brought their own unique flavor to the collection, and the Barcelona team has cleverly crafted its own display around its labyrinthian galleries with a particular focus on previously undisplayed objects to mark this year’s 50th anniversary of Kubrick’s “2001: A Space Odyssey.” The winding nature of the displays at the CCCB takes the visitor on a journey through Kubrick’s creative processes. In many ways, this maze feels like the sort of web we might see in one of his films. As we move through the chronology of Kubrick’s body of work, we become acquainted with his
steady development over the years, as well as the recurring themes for which he became so well-known: violence, desire, obsession and our path towards self-destruction. The exhibition begins with an introductory audiovisual biographical installation that segues into a deep exploration of 12 of Kubrick’s biggest movies, before concluding with some incomplete projects picked up by other artists after his death. Throughout it all, visitors are greeted with a selection of treasures on which to feast. From the correspondence with religious pressure groups opposed to the production of “Lolita” and the iconic outfits worn by Alex DeLarge’s bloodthirsty gang of droogs in “A Clockwork Orange,” to Jack Torrance’s typewriter and the eerie carpeting of “The Shining”'s Overlook Hotel, to miniature models of the groundbreaking set of “2001: A Space Odyssey.” And, of course, no Kubrick retrospective in Spain would be complete without a solid nod to “Spartacus,” whose epic battle scenes were filmed in La Mancha and Madrid. Each of Kubrick’s films is given ample attention, showcasing previously unfamiliar materials that help shed fresh light on his intentions and desires. In addition to iconic props found on screen, the collection of Kubrick’s personal effects — research and production documents, correspondence with talent and filmmaking equipment — is simply staggering. While the costumes and models are certainly emblematic, it is this rich archive material that offers a glimpse into the mind of one of the greatest and most influential filmmakers of the 20th century. With 600 objects to choose from, there is much to absorb. And at the end of it all, if you’ve a Kubrick itch left to scratch, you can twin your visit with one of the many screenings accompanying the exhibition over at Filmoteca de Catalunya.
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TRAVEL
TEARING IT UP IN
TARRAGONÈS THERE’S TARRAGONA THE CITY AND TARRAGONA THE MUNICIPALITY, BUT HOW MUCH DO YOU KNOW ABOUT TARRAGONÈS THE COUNTY?
Castell Tamarit. Photo by Tara Shain.
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Aqüeducte de les Ferreres (Pont del Diable). Photo by Tara Shain.
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estled along the Mediterranean coast in the lower half of Catalunya, the crescent m o o n - s h a p e d c o m a r c a ( c o u nt y ) o f Tarragonès is a watery playground, as beach after sandy beach stretches away toward the neighboring counties of Baix Penedès and Baix Camp. Its seaside geography means that it was, and continues to be, a principal site of Catalan industry. However, in recent years, the focus of its economy has predictably shifted from fish to tourists. And while its seemingly endless coastline makes it the ideal place for the leisurely pleasures of summer vacationing (and trips to Port Aventura amusement park), the comarca’s long-standing cultural significance — most clearly manifested in its ancient and monument-laden capital — makes it a worthy tourist destination at any time of year.
Things to see In the middle of the comarca and easily accessible, the capital city of Tarragona (also a UNESCO World Heritage City) is a good place to start one’s Tarragonès experience. During their approximately 250-year occupation of the town, the Romans built the numerous monuments that form the core of
Tarragona’s cultural importance today and its appeal to travelers and tourists. The amphitheater, circus and city walls (muralles) were all built between 200 B.C. and 2 A.D., and are the principal archaeological sites within the municipal limits of Tarragona. They can be freely explored or toured with a group and guide. Just outside the city, four kilometers away, is the Roman aqueduct (Aqüeducte de les Ferreres), also known as the Devil’s Bridge (Pont del Diable). Like the amphitheater and the city walls, it is an openair monument, so no entrance fee is required. Jumping ahead to the 12th century, Tarragona’s Cathedral is a stunning sight for its mix of Romanesque and Gothic elements. Also worth a visit in Tarragona is El Call, the old Jewish quarter, with its labyrinthine streets and dark history, as well as Castell Tamarit, the 11 th-century seaside castle with gardens that practically plunge down into the water. Other towns of interest include Altafulla, with its charming and well-preserved medieval castle, Roman ruins and Neoclassical church, and nearby Torredembarra, with its four beautiful beaches, bustling fish market and handful of architectural gems. Moving away from the sights of Tarragonès towns, the Torre de Montoliu and the Torre de l’Abella, both located near the small, pretty town of Riera de Gaià, are ancient ruins shrouded in a romantic atmosphere. Built in the 11 th century, the towers themselves aren’t much to look at, but they are perfect endpoints to easy hikes that, once completed, offer lovely views of the surrounding countryside.
What to eat and drink With over 70,000 hectares of vineyards, Tarragona wines have been recognized for decades. The white wines, which account for 70 percent of all those produced in the region, are markedly Mediterranean with an aromatic, fresh and flavorful character. Try them with a handful of almonds or hazelnuts — other treats cultivated in Tarragonès since pre-Roman times. Another favorite of the region is its romesco sauce, made with local peppers, almonds, olive oil and tomatoes. A close variation of the sauce is traditionally prepared to accompany fire-grilled calçots, the famed winter onion also grown in the area. This article has been adapted from a 2008 article in Barcelona Metropolitan. 35
DAY TRIP
MORE THAN JUST
MONTSERRAT THE COMARCA OF BAGES (PRONOUNCED “BAH-JEHS”) IS CENTRAL TO CATALUNYA IN BOTH LOCATION AND ITS PLACE IN CATALAN CULTURE, OFFERING COUNTRYSIDE AND MANY TOWNS TO EXPLORE NEAR THE STUNNING MONTSERRAT MOUNTAIN RANGE.
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ages has enjoyed periods of prosperity since the 13th century, thanks to its rich natural resources and hardworking people. When faced with a drought in the 14th century, a canal was constructed to bring water from the nearby Llobregat River. The local bishop initially refused the project but later changed his mind – following an alleged miracle in which a mysterious light emanated from Montserrat — and the Sèquia canal has operated ever since. Interest in the area boomed in the wake of St. Ignatius, leading to many buildings built in his honor and workshops
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dedicated to religious art. Later, the industrial revolution brought greater prosperity in the form of silk and textile exports. There is plenty to see and do in Bages’ capital, Manresa, offering beautiful examples of Baroque, medieval and modernista architecture. The town is set on a slope, making for some steep streets that are heavy-going but worth the effort. On one of the upper parts is La Seu, a 14 th-century Gothic church whose cavernous interior has an interesting selection of religious art. Not far from La Seu is the International Center
of Spirituality (previously called the Casa d’Exercicis), an enormous neoclassical building that marks the spot where, in the 16 th century, Basque soldier Ignatius Loyola (later canonized as St. Ignatius) discovered his vocation and wrote his “Spiritual Exercises” as a guide for the devout. Just beyond Manresa is the unmistakable Montserrat, the holiest mountain in Catalunya. A geological anomaly, its rounded limestone peaks couldn’t be more different from the surrounding countryside. There have been chapels on the mountain since the end of the 9th century. Nowadays
Castell de Rocafort, El Pont de Vilomara i Rocafort, Bages. Photo by Carlos Iborra.
Montserrat is renowned for its hikes, monastery, La Moreneta statue of the Virgin Mary and boys’ choir, which is one of the oldest of its kind in Europe and performs twice daily during the week. (It’s worth calling ahead to confirm.) Although Bages is best known for Montserrat, it has so much more to offer. The area is teeming with hilly forests and striking rocky outcrops. Castles and Romanesque buildings pepper the landscape, while the natural park of Sant Llorenç del Munt i l’Obac provides eye-catching flora and fauna. Within the confines of the park is the town of Mura, which is
home to the Casa Museu El Puig de la Balma, a prime example of the houses that were built into rock in the 8th and 9th centuries. Meanwhile, in the northwest of the county sits the medieval town of Cardona as well as Cardona Salt Mountain, a great place to learn about the cultural and historical importance of salt. Visitors can enter the mountain and take a tour through its glistening stalagmites and stalactites. Bages is also known for its cuina del secà (dryland cooking), featuring cap i pota (literally translates to “head and hock” and is made of stewed veal and often tripe)
and bacallà a la manresana (salt cod with spinach, pine nuts, raisins, prunes and boiled egg). Sweet items have a strong religious connection, including panets de Sant Ignasi (sweet rolls flavored with vanilla, lemon, candied fruit, rum, raisins, marzipan and almonds) and ametlles de llum (almonds of light — praline-coated, toasted almonds covered in dark chocolate and rolled in almond bits). From Barcelona, Manresa is just an hour by car or two hours by direct train from Plaça Espanya on the R5, making it perfect for day trips as well as long weekends. 37
WORKING LIFE
A DAY IN THE LIFE SPENCER HALL, TABLE MAKER FROM THE UNITED KINGDOM After working in the horse racing industry in the U.K. for 20 years, Spencer Hall arrived in Barcelona three years ago. Inspired by the city’s architecture, installations and more, he has since been getting in touch with his creative side and is now creating eclectic tables from extraordinary objects in his workshop in Sants.
Spencer in his workshop. Photo by Diana Delgado Pineda.
8:00-9:00 This is roughly when I wake up, depending on whether it’s been a chill night indoors or a more social one in a plaza somewhere. I check my phone for any overnight messages and peruse the days’ horse racing back in the U.K. 10:00 I shower, then breakfast on a peppermint tea and maybe some kefir with dates and kiwi. I’m addicted to kefir with fruit at the moment but on the weekend it has to be poached eggs with crispy bacon. 10:30 Off to the pool for 30 minutes of physical and mental exercise — I’m teaching myself to meditate whilst swimming! Not as crazy as it sounds. Breath in, breathe out … A work in progress but I enjoy this time to clear my mind. (Works wonders for a hangover as well!) 11:30 Walk five minutes over the hill to my workshop in Sants, past Plaça d’Iberia, a gorgeous, serene square with wonderful architecture. Hopefully Ester — the fantastic ceramist I share the space with — will be there as she’s always happy and smiling. It puts me in a good mood to tackle any design flaws I find with my latest table, or something that hasn’t quite worked how I’d envisaged. That’s the beauty about doing something new: It’s always a challenge and I’m learning more everyday. 14:00 If I’m focused on something, I get into a groove and won’t stop at the normal time for lunch in this city. I find it better to keep on going until I’m finished or at the next stage of a project. Today I just completed a table made from very old wooden shutters, the type you find in the villages outside Barcelona, and I’m quietly pleased with the whole thing. The horse racing is starting in the U.K. and I’ll have a few WhatsApps or calls with my contacts over there. 16:00-17:00 Now I’m usually getting hungry so I grab some tapas from a local haunt There are so many great places to eat in Sants. I think the neighborhood is underestimated by most people living in Barcelona. 38
18:00 If I’m not back in the workshop I’m home checking the racing results. I may watch a race or two, then update my website with photos of a new table and add some written content. 20:00 My favorite time of day because I’ll either meet up with friends locally, pop over to Gràcia to catch up with my friend Begonia Pe (great photographer — check out the photos on my website!) who runs El Café Rock&Roll, or cook indoors with a glass of wine. I love to cook, especially with the more unusual cuts of meat like tongue or liver, which I get from my friendly butcher in Hostafrancs market. Try liver with cumin, raw red onion and fresh coriander … delicious! Always accompanied by music, normally Indie from the U.K.: Joy Division, New Order, Stone Roses, Nick Cave — that type of vibe! 22:00 If I’m not out and about then I’m chilling with Netflix, then bed around midnight.
MORE ABOUT RENEW TABLE DESIGN The tables Spencer produces range from unconventional industrial fan tables to more traditional wooden pieces. Each piece is unique, designed and handcrafted in his studio, with occasional help from the finest professionals in the region. For example, he uses metal that is precision cut and polished by local master metalworkers, glass from one of the longest running glass workshops in Barcelona and timber sourced from the finest suppliers of salvaged material in Catalonia. As well as designing and making original tables, he also offers clients the chance to design a bespoke table from start to finish.
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GASPORT DRIVING DOWN FUEL COSTS
The cost of refueling vehicles is the third largest expense for the average household according to Spain’s National Institute of Statistics, and the Corporation for Strategic Reserves of Petroleum Products estimates the total addressable market in Spain is worth 33.6€ billion. As the price at the pump has grown 40% since 2016, families are increasingly looking for ways to save on their overall transportation expenses. Alternatives include switching to public transportation, carpooling, car sharing and carefully searching for the best prices. But for many households these options are not realistic due to the location of their residence, schools or place of business. Since 2007, the retail service station sector has experienced dramatic changes, resulting in a decrease of 33% in the volume of liters sold per service station. This is due in part to a significant increase in competition, as 2,500 new stations have appeared to help us refuel and when new legislation was approved in 2013 promoting competition. Notwithstanding, the market remains highly fragmented: Approximately 30% of the stations are responsible for 70% of total sales per a recent industry study by sector expert Francesc Ribas. In the last 5 years Spain has also seen an explosion in the number of lowcost gas stations (with a new one opening each day), comprising over 2,000 independent dealers in a market valued at roughly 7.4€ billion, the top 10 of which control roughly 23% of the lowcost segment. With increased competition, the major brands have resorted to implementing solutions to increase client fidelity. These include ways to expedite and improve the overall refueling experience, although these primarily come in the form of mobile payment platforms such as Repsol Waylet, Cepsa Pay, Ballenoil EasyFuel, Smartfuel and Automatric. Clients seem to have mixed feedback on these efforts and these initiatives have largely not been successful.
One approach, however, that does seem to be gaining traction is the use of price comparison tools. According to Ribas, “Efforts by service station operators to improve customer loyalty have failed mostly due to an inherent conflict of interest. Consumers seek ways to reduce the cost of refueling while petrol stations are seeking ways to increase sales.” Gimmicks attracting customers to pay with their smartphones may be interesting, but they do not solve the customers’ real problem: minimizing fuel expenses. Ribas conducted a survey of daily drivers in Catalunya and found that over 83% used their vehicles to drive to work and that these cars were refueled every 11 days. Furthermore, a 2016 survey by Rastreator determined that 52% of drivers would go out of their way to refuel at a station nearby with lower prices. To better address the critical problem of rising prices, Ribas launched Gasport, an app that combines geolocation and web trawling technology for drivers to compare and find the best prices and brands of nearby service stations, as well as take advantage of exclusive promotions offered by gas stations in Gasport’s network. Ribas, an ESADE educated entrepreneur who has received mentoring by Founder Institute, explains, “This solution elegantly provides consumers with the best prices for refueling while helping service station operators acquire new customers and increase loyalty among existing ones by better serving the needs of their drivers.” Gasport is currently piloting its promotions platform at six gas stations and hopes to roll it out soon for general use, and Ribas adds, “Using Gasport, the average household might save up to 350€ per year on their gas bill, as well as receive exclusive offers from their favorite service stations.” Gasport is available on both Android and iPhone smartphones. 39
FOOD & DRINK
HERB YOUR ENTHUSIASM
Ratafia
A TASTE OF CATALUNYA’S SWEET AND HERBAL LIQUEUR
Photo by Anna Fuster.
By Rosie Free
With origins that date back two hundred years, ratafia's mysterious blend of fruit, nuts and herbs is now cemented into Catalan culture. We hear from those who are working hard to keep the tradition alive and brewing.
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luisa Juanola darts off the farmyard track, with magical qualities. Each family has its own recipe picks a flower hidden in the grass and adds — a secret passed down through the generations — it to her basket. Farther downhill, Marta and their own way of preparing the liqueur. It is said Compte does battle with the branches of there are as many different types of ratafia as there a small tree as she tries to retrieve some are people who make it. pine cones hanging just above her head. Lluisa, who was taught what she knows by her The women are taking part in an annual ritual: mother, is passing her knowledge of herbs to her gathering plants to make ratafia, a traditional daughter Anna Güell and granddaughter Julia. For the Catalan liqueur. A heady concoction of around 50 past few years, they have been joined on their annual aromatic herbs, flowers, fruits and spices, this sweet, herb-gathering trips by several of Anna’s colleagues, caramel-colored drink is said to have medicinal all of whom contribute their ideas on what to add to properties. While many Spanish liqueurs have become the brew. supermarket staples, ratafia remains very much a Another ratafia enthusiast, Xavi Amat, from local product. And although small distilleries produce Santa Coloma de Farners, learned how to make the it commercially, the practice of making it at home is liqueur by listening to the advice of his elders, as still widespread. well as workshops held in his hometown. “Like all Herbs are traditionally gathered on the eve of the families who make ratafia, we have a secret recipe.” festival of Sant Joan, when they are said to be imbued His town holds an annual ratafia festival, where
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RECIPE the competition for the title of best home-brewed liqueur is fierce. He has entered many times with his mother and friends, and although they have not yet won he remains upbeat. “Competition is stiff. My prize is the satisfaction of seeing the happiness of my friends when they try the ratafia after a winter dinner.” While Xavi gathers herbs that he finds near his house throughout the year and buys others from stores, Lluisa’s friends enjoy the social aspect of their plant-gathering excursions in the run-up to Sant Joan. Setting off from her farmhouse in the shadow of the Pyrenean foothills, everyone is armed with bags and baskets, and a list of some 65 herbs, fruits and flowers. Included are the aromatic herbs rosemary, thyme, sage and oregano, as well as flowers such as horse’s tail and lion’s tooth, various types of ferns, stinging nettles and pine cones.
It is said there are as many different types of ratafia as there are people who make it. The most important ingredient for ratafia, however, is unripe walnuts. The tender green nuts, picked before their shells have hardened, form the base of the liqueur. They are steeped in alcohol along with the rest of the herbs and spices for a minimum of 40 days, before being filtered straight into bottles or decanted into wooden containers to age for an additional three months. While Lluisa’s list gives the quantities of each plant needed to make eight liters, it is not an exact science. At the end of the afternoon the group has found about half of the plants listed and added another dozen. Extra ingredients such as coffee beans, lemon and orange peel, cinnamon sticks, ground nutmeg and anise will also be needed alongside the licoriceflavored liqueur anisette, in which the plants are left to soak. Xavi believes that the weather has an influence on the taste. “Even [when] using the same ingredients, every year is different because of changes in climate.” Ratafia was traditionally drunk after a meal to aid digestion. Nowadays, it is also drunk with coffee, on the rocks or with crushed ice. It has also found its way into the kitchen and is used in everything from starters and mains to desserts. From its origins in 1842, ratafia has had quite the culinary journey. Who knows what the future will hold for this sweet, delectable beverage. This article has been adapted from a 2010 piece in Barcelona Metropolitan by the same author.
ENERGY A BALLS By Marina Pie
t this time of the year, with the seemingly endless errands to run before the festivities we could all use some extra energy. These gluten, dairy and refined sugar-free treats are ideal to indulge your sweet tooth without neglecting your diet and will give you a healthy energy boost to get you through the holiday season.
INGREDIENTS • 1 cup of almonds (or walnuts, hazelnuts or mixed nuts) • 1 cup of medjool dates (pitted) • 1 ripe banana • ¼ cup ground flax seeds • 1 ½ tablespoons chia seeds • 1 ½ cups grated coconut and/or sesame seeds
METHOD 1. Place the almonds or nuts of your choice in a food processor and process until it has a flour-like texture (about one to two minutes). 2. With the food processor on low, gradually add the pitted dates, banana, ground flax seeds and chia seeds until everything is well mixed. The mixture should have a soft and sticky consistency that allows you to manipulate it with your hands. 3. Take a spoonful of the mixture and shape into balls with your hands. 4. Dip the balls in a bowl with the grated coconut and/or sesame seeds and carefully roll to coat them completely. 5. Let them rest in the freezer for a couple of hours before serving. They can be stored in the fridge or freezer for about four days. Makes about 15 balls. 41
RECIPE
Tortell de Reis AKA “KINGS’ CAKE” By Lynne Werner
Photo by Jesus Cerezo Arillo.
C
ommonly believed to have originated in Old World France and Spain, the tortell de Reis (kings’ cake) is a much-loved holiday tradition in Catalunya and beyond. It’s known as gâteau des rois in French, reiaume in Occitan, rosca de Reyes in Spanish and bolo rei in Portuguese. This January 6, nearly every bakery will have some version of this sweet bread to celebrate the Twelfth Day of Christmas, known locally as the Dia dels Reis (Three Kings’ Day) or the Epiphany in English. However, some believe its history stretches even further back to the Roman winter solstice celebration, Saturnalia. Originating in ancient agricultural rituals, Saturnalia was characterized by feasting, role reversals and wide behavioral license. In many
households, one feature of the festivities was the arbitrary naming of a mock king to act as “Lord of Misrule” and according to Larousse Gastronomique, the king “was chosen by lot, using a bean concealed in a galette.” Today, the bean can still be found baked into the cake, along with a tiny ceramic king. According to custom, whoever receives the piece of cake with the figurine is crowned “king” for the day and whoever receives the piece with the bean has to provide the tortell (cake) for the coming year. Traditionally, the Catalan tortell is a rich and tender brioche stuffed with marzipan and topped with candied fruits. Tortells are widely available in bakeries and supermarkets during the holiday season, but there’s nothing quite like homemade.
INGREDIENTS
METHOD
• 1/2 cup sugar • zest of one lemon • zest of one orange • 2 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast • 2/3 cup milk • 1/2 cup unsalted, softened butter • 3 eggs • 3 tablespoons orange flower water • 1/2 teaspoon salt • 3 cups unbleached allpurpose flour • olive oil for brushing a rimmed baking sheet • 1 dried lima bean • 1 tiny ceramic king figurine • 1/2 cup candied fruits finely chopped (optional) • sugar to sprinkle on top • choose your filling: marzipan, cabell d’àngel (angel’s hair jam), whipped cream, chocolate truffle, jam, meringue or custard
1. In a food processor or blender, combine 1/2 cup sugar and both citrus zests and process on high speed until fine. Set aside.
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2. In a large bowl, dissolve the yeast in warm — not hot! — milk and let stand for about 5 minutes, or until foamy. 3. To the yeast mixture, add the sugar-zest mixture, softened butter, two eggs, orange flower water and salt. Stir with a wooden spoon until all ingredients are well mixed. 4. Add half the flour to the bowl and mix with your hands until well blended. Add the remaining flour and continue mixing until fully incorporated. 5. Knead the dough in the bowl for a few minutes until it is smooth, flexible and no longer sticky. Cover the bowl with a damp kitchen towel and let the dough rest in a warm spot until it has roughly doubled in size (about one hour).
long and 2 1/2 inches in diameter. Place it on the prepared baking sheet and bring the ends together to form a circle with a hole in the center, forming a “crown.” Tuck the bean and the king figurine into the dough and be careful that they’re not near one another 8. Turn off the oven. Fill an ovenproof bowl with water and place it at the rear of the oven. Place the baking sheet with the dough crown in the warm oven. Let the dough rise for about one hour, or until it’s nearly doubled in size. 9. Remove the dough from the oven and preheat to 205°C (400°F). Beat the remaining egg in a small bowl and then brush it onto the dough. Scatter the candied fruits evenly over the top and sprinkle evenly with sugar. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until golden. When done, transfer to a wire rack and let cool on the pan.
6. Preheat the oven to its lowest setting and brush a rimmed baking sheet with olive oil.
10. Carefully slice the cake in half crosswise. Spread the bottom layer with the filling of your choice and then gently add the top layer of the cake. Serve and enjoy!
7. Punch down the dough. On a floured work surface, using your palms, roll the dough back and forth until it forms a log about 30 inches
Recipe adapted from Teresa Barrenechea’s cookbook The Cuisines of Spain: Exploring Regional Home Cooking.
NEFW &D IN
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HEALTH &BEAUTY
Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR An English doctor in Barcelona, Dr Steven Joseph is a member of The Royal College of General Practitioners and The Royal College of Psychiatrists. He offers a wide range of medical care, including family medicine, sexual health, mental health and access to all specialists and tests. Physiotherapy and chiropractic services are also available. Googol Medical Center provides comprehensive healthcare in a relaxed, friendly and discreet environment. Dr Joseph is happy to take your enquiries directly.
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Dra. Susana Campi -
Goldie Uttamchandani -
New premises, new services and new state of the art equipment! For all your dental needs, their team of first-class professionals offer excellent treatment. They have over 35 years’ experience and provide services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.
Goldie is a bilingual ICF Certified Youth & Family Coach. It is her belief that in your teen years, you can truly unlock your highest potential as a human being. She is focused on accompanying this age group on navigating through this challenging and exciting journey to help them attain their goals. Try a complimentary first session and begin your journey on connecting with your true greatness.
Turó Park Medical Center is an international practice in Barcelona for foreign residents, tourists and locals alike. Its team of 15 dental and medical specialists speaks fluent English. Opened in 2017 by resident orthodontist Dr. Madeleine Smit, the centre already has 900 affiliated patients. Its prevention service includes general health checkups, and it accepts reimbursement policies of more than 200 insurance companies.
LIFE, BUSINESS AND YOUTH COACH
DENTIST
Josep Tarradellas 97 local, 08029 Bus: 15,27,32,43,54,59,66,78 T. 93 321 4005 susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com
READER OFFER
Dr. Boj - DENTIST
Emma Ruiz -
GESTALT THERAPIST
Dr. Boj and his team offer specialised, comprehensive dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. Laser dentistry and invisible orthodontics are provided. Dr. Boj lectures on dentistry related to these age groups. He studied at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of Rochester, NY, USA. This is a fast and friendly service in an English-speaking, international environment.
Prats de Mollo 10, Bajos B, 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org
Dr. Alistair Gallagher DENTIST
The British Dental Clinic has a patient-friendly philosophy that combines aesthetics, youthful appearances, and a commitment to total oral health. Conveniently located in Barcelona, they offer orthodontics including Fast Braces and Inman Aligner, implants, cosmetic dentistry, whitening and general family dentistry. Their talented, conscientious and friendly staff will help ensure that you comfortably receive the healthy and beautiful smile that you deserve. Diagonal 281 T. 93 265 8070 M. 607 332 335 info@thebritishdentalclinic.com www.thebritishdentalclinic.com
M. 669 788 508 Skype: goldieuttam goldieuttam@gmail.com www.goldieuttam.com
Are you ready to thrive? I can help you with . . . • Relationship issues • Grief / Loss • Feeling stuck • Finding your life purpose • Reconnecting with yourself Don’t wait any longer to be the best version of you
50% OFF 1ST CONSULTATION UNTIL THE END OF THE MONTH
BARBER SHOP
Còrsega 218 M. 659 126 877 emma@gestalttherapyinbarcelona.com www.gestalttherapyinbarcelona.com
BCN CUTS -
BARBER SHOP
BCN Cuts is not only a barbershop. It’s a quiet and relaxing environment, where men’s care is the main objective. So, while you’re having a cup of coffee, reading the newspaper or having an interesting conversation, you’re always being taken care of.
Monday–Friday: 10am–8pm Saturday: 10am–2pm
Torrent de l’Olla, 7
Torrent de l’Olla, 7 T. 936 111 813 bcncuts-barbershop.com
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Estudio 3 Pilates Reformer
First session free for new clients. Rambla Catalunya 66, 1º F 08007 T. 93 215 2393 recepcion@estudio3pilates.com www.estudio3pilates.com
Sombrerers 27, Principal T. 93 268 3070 M. 622 772 623 oliver@bornquiro.com www.bornquiro.com
Our studio gives professional instruction to improve full-body flexibility and strength–without adding muscular bulk. Sessions are personalised to individuals or groups of up to five people, run by expert coaches trained in Reformer Pilates. We offer monthly subscriptions for 1, 2 or 3 sessions a week with flexibility to fit our clients’schedules, and also offer one-off classes for occasional visitors.
FIRST SESSION FREE
Kamen B. Petrov - PSYCHOTHERAPIST
Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic -
M. 603 490 498 www.InnerWisdomQuest.com
Sanz Pancko Dental Clinic in Barcelona and Terrassa provides excellent oral care in an Englishspeaking environment. Dr Nancy Pancko, an American dentist trained at Columbia University in New York, is an American Board-certified orthodonist. Dr Javier Sanz is an American Boardcertified periodontist and implantologist who lectures on periodontal technologica advancements and leads research projects at the university. Together, they provide comprehensive and affordable dental care.
Kamen is an experienced Jungian Psychotherapist, Lecturer and Psychologist, Member of the British Psychological Society, Professor at Metáfora Barcelona. He works with individuals, couples, children and families and offers supervision to psychotherapists. To learn more or to book a free introductory session, please visit his website.
Mind & Soul Barcelona - INTERNATIONAL
GROUP OF DEPTH PSYCHOTHERAPISTS A group of certified psychotherapists with extensive experience in the field of psychology and psychotherapy. They focus on issues of change, conflict and relationship difficulties, offering individual and couple psychotherapy with flexible hours and affordable fees adjusted to individual income. Visit their website for more information or to book a session. www.mindandsoul.world
Jonathan Hooker - PSYCHOTHERAPIST
Jonathan specialises in helping people to deal with change. This may be aspects of their life they would like to change or unexpected changes that they are dealing with. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he helps people to improve their relationships and make sense of their lives. M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com
Cecilia Frigerio - HOLISTIC HEALING
Cecilia Frigerio is a holistic therapist channeling her passion for nature into her healing sessions. Offering a variety of treatments, including therapeutic massages, Reiki and tantric massages, a session with Cecilia is the perfect way to take a break. Clients receive a personalised experience and find serenity through a combination of holistic techniques. M. 605 625 938 ceciliafriholistica@gmail.com www.ceciliafrigerio.com
Yoga con Gracia - YOGA
An enchanting neighbourhood studio and community space with two locations in the heart of Gràcia. Founded in 2004, you will find a friendly, international vibe in the gorgeous loft-style studios. YcG has something for everyone, from Hatha, Sivananda, Kundalini, Jivamukti (a fast-paced Vinyasa) to English, pre-natal and Mum and Baby yoga classes. www.yogacongracia.com
Pharmacy Serra Mandri - CHEMIST
The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and offers a home delivery service. The staff can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics.
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Oliver Dawson -
CHIROPRACTOR Oliver Dawson is a chiropractor who focuses on the direct relationship between spinal structures and health. Through specific spinal realignment and structural correction, better neurological connections are established throughout the nervous system. The result is less pain, more vitality and better health. Every Thursday from 8-9pm, Oliver offers free health activation workshops about the benefits of chiropractic and the key principles.To attend the workshop, please confirm by email and quote ‘Metropolitan’.
- PILATES STUDIO
Av. Diagonal 478 T. 93 416 1270 9am-10pm www.farmaciaserra.com
DENTIST
Rogent 40, local 2, 08026 Metro: Clot (L1, L2) T. 93 246 9043 www.clinicadentalsyp.com Open Mon-Fri 9am-8.30pm
The Pink Peony -
BEAUTY SALON The PEONY de SY facial is a complex recovery treatment for mature skin that combines organic Dr. Hauschka products, non-abrasive ultrasonic exfoliation, detoxifying lymphatic stimulation and collagen-regenerating LED Light therapy. The result is a luminous, visibly repaired complexion and an ongoing stimulation of collagen production. When making your facial reservation, quote ‘Metropolitan’ for a free eyebrow and upper lip threading worth €35. Passeig de Gracia 100, Pral. 2ª Mandri 62 T. 93 487 8464 Whatsapp: 648 248 744 www.thepinkpeony.com
The Vital Touch - MASSAGE The Vital Touch help people to focus better and feel re-energised. They come to your office or event and set up their ergonomic chairs, which you can relax into comfortably and fullyclothed for an effective energising massage. You emerge 20 minutes later with increased vitality and all tensions released. Benefits of the massage include: de-stressing, relaxation, revitalisation, tension release, detoxification, immunity boost and improvement in posture. Contact Nunu by phone or email for more information. M. 659 995 657 enquiries@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com
AFT IURE LEGAL Spain Accounting-
LAWYERS TAX & BUSINESS SERVICES
AFT I URE LEGAL ABOGADOS LAWYERS RECHTSANWÄLTE
Albert Forment offers legal services Qualified UK accountant with 30 years to the Barcelona community experience in Spain offers: in English, German French. He • tax services for and freelance specialises in civil, criminal “autónomos” and small SLsand tax law, but extends his practice to other • income tax returns for employees areas, such as family, administrative, and non-residents employment, and real estate.up a • practical advice on setting Drawing from a wealth of experience, business in Spain Forment ensures reliability and • registration of “autónomos” and clarity for clients, and holds sincerity company incorporation (SL) and honesty at advice the core his tax • personalised onofyour services. Contact him today for a free obligations in Spain introductory in-house consultation. • fast, reliable email service Contact David M. 616 614 764 Cook on M.93 678 702 T. 321 11369 55 info@spainaccounting.com btforment@gmail.com www.spainaccounting.com www.aftiure.com/
BUSINESS SERVICES DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS
To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at
www.barcelona-metropolitan.com
Klev & Vera -
Barcelona Accounting -
This firm specialises in attending to the legal needs of international clients in Spain. They have multilingual team of lawyers with international backgrounds, specialising in different areas of legal practice including: • Real Estate • Business Set Up • Spanish Residence • Family Law • Litigation • Tax Planning
Need help with your small business finances? Barcelona Accounting can create an efficient financial system for a start-up or existing business, convert you to a modern cloud accounting solution, organise and/or update your bookkeeping, manage your compliance and run financial analysis to help grow your business.
LAW FIRM
READER OFFER
Valencia 281, 2-2 T. 93 176 0190 info@klevvera.com www.klevvera.com
BUSINESS SERVICE
READER OFFER
Sánchez Molina -
NIE Barcelona
LEGAL PRACTICE
- BUSINESS
NIE Barcelona is a service that helps foreigners resolve all the paperwork needed for living and working in Barcelona. Their main focus is on helping to secure the NIE for EU and NON-EU citizens in a fast and efficient way. They can also help with other administrative procedures, such as social security numbers, empadronamiento, autónomo set up, and change of driving license.
The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.
Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com
M. 603 209 403 info@niebarcelona.com www.niebarcelona.com
BCN Seguros - INSURANCE
Barcelona Women’s Network - NONPROFIT
This local Barcelona insurance agency provides complete personal and business insurance services (home, car, health, commercial, public liability, life, motor, yacht, travel, etc.). They offer a 30% cost-saving guarantee by keeping insurance coverage identical. Advice is available in Spanish, English and German.
Supported charities 2016 - 2018 M. 636 465 010 rainerhobrack@gmail.com www.bcnseguros.es
M. 670 405 727 info@bcnaccounting.com www.bcnaccounting.com
BWN offers support, friendship and networking opportunities to internationally minded women residing in, or just arriving in Barcelona. They are unique in that they are a social group with a social purpose - raising funds for community organisations through various activities and events, with the help of their community sponsors. Connect with like-minded women while giving back to the community. Find out more about membership via their website membership@bcnwomensnetwork.com
president@bcnwomensnetwork.com www.bcnwomensnetwork.com
PWN Barcelona - NON PROFIT
Coccinelle - PRIVATE STAFF
PWN Barcelona is part of a global movement working towards gender balanced leadership through professional development and a range of networking options: in-person, online, cross-industry, and international. They offer Mentoring programmes and an EU Business School certified virtual programme for entrepreneurs. Regular events include 2nd Tuesday Networking Drinks and professional development workshops. “Let’s advance how men and women work together”.
Coccinelle specialises in providing highly-skilled, experienced domestic staff in Barcelona and surrounding areas. Their expertise and rigorous selection method ensures they are able to provide seasoned professionals for both permanent and temporary positions, where over 700 families have trusted in their services. Call them today and quote ‘Metropolitan’ for a free consultation.
www.pwnbarcelona.net members@pwnbarcelona.net www.facebook.com/pwnbarcelona/
Pau Claris 151 T. 93 010 9758 info@coccinelle-agency.com www.coccinelle-agency.com
Radix -
REAL ESTATE PERSONAL SHOPPER
Radix is a Property Finding Service that works exclusively with buyers. Ideal for locals or people living abroad lacking the time to dedicate to their property search. Customized to your needs, budget and location. Let Radix save you time and guide you through a smart purchase. Dream. Find. Enjoy.
M. 647 588 569 info@radixbcn.com www.radixbcn.com
RECRUITMENT
Geo Mac - COMPUTERS George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.
M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com
Handyman - HOME SERVICES Mark offers honest, transparent, efficient, English/Spanish/Swedish speaking handyman services. He can help you hang a mirror, paint a room, install reverse osmosis, hang blinds or curtains, do home repairs, assemble Ikea furniture and he can even fix up your place, assiting the process of retrieving your “fianza” from your landlord. Hourly rates. Real time updates.
M. 645 691 475 mark@handymanbarcelona.com www.handymanbarcelona.com Facebook handymanbarcelona74
Yacht Point Barcelona - Online navigation theory courses and sailing tuition. - Obtain your Competent Crew, Day Skipper, Coastal Skipper and Yachtmaster with us! - Courses for beginners to advanced sailors. - Day Charter trips for private groups. We want to share our passion with you, we are more than a Sailing School!
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T. 93 004 5707 info@yachtpointbcn.com yachtpointbcn.com/en/ryatrainingcentre/
FOR THE BEST ENGLISH-SPEAKING BUSINESSES IN BARCELONA, SEE OUR ONLINE DIRECTORY Lawyers - Accountants - Language schools Business schools - Computer technicians Real estate - Insurance - Electricians Plumbers - Graphic design Driving schools - Sailing schools Babysitting services - Translators International schools - Printing services
Language Surfing - LANGUAGE
Highlands School Barcelona - SCHOOL
Highlands is a private Catholic school for students aged between one and eighteen. Students follow a high-quality, multilingual curriculum delivered mainly in English, with some classes in Spanish and Catalan. They also have the option of learning French and German. The school is accredited by Cambridge International Education, a world leader in education for international schools. Highlands offers a wide range of extra-curricular activities and works together with the Conservatori Liceu. Manuel Florentín Pérez 26, 08950 Esplugues de Llobregat www.highlandsbarcelona.es www.colegiosrc.es
Barcelona is your classroom and its streets are your books.
FIRST CLASS FOR FREE
Entença 34 enslo 1, 08015 Metro Rocafort M. 663 563 720 www.language-surfing.com
Spanish with Angeles -
Oak House - SCHOOL Founded in 1968, pupils at Oak House are taught according to the UK national curriculum in early years and primary education. Secondary pupils follow a multilingual programme, with a firm emphasis on English. Oak House offers IGCSE qualifications to help prepare students for university courses in English. The school also offers the International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme in English, as well as the National Bachillerato programme. The school’s modern installations are conducive to an active learning style. Their motto is ‘building futures’. Sant Pere Claver 12-18, 08017 T. 93 252 40 20 www.oakhouseschool.com
Language Surfing is a revolutionary learning approach where students practice in real life situations and accelerate their learning by having lessons in real bars, parks & museums. Our teachers are native and professional, who love to explore the city with you, so you can take in the culture and practice in a fun and exciting environment. It’s the end of boring lessons!
FREE TRIAL CLASS
LANGUAGE Do you want to speak Spanish well? With Angeles, you can make incredible progress in your language learning, becoming a confident speaker with a solid understanding of grammar and good writing and reading skills. Angeles’ lessons focus on conversation and are tailored to every student’s individual needs.Angeles is a professional, native Spanish-speaking tutor with more than 12 years of experience, who believes in the importance of providing custommade materials and guidance. Her personalised lessons are the most effective way to help students reach their goals. M. 647 626 487 info@spanishwithangeles.es www.spanishwithangeles.es
Corsa International - DRIVING SCHOOL
Corsa driving school offers theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in Barcelona and help you learn about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles.
Gran via de Gracias, 266, 08022 T: 934885221 international@autoescuelacorsa.com www.autoescuelacorsa.com
BritSat - SATELLITE TV Missing out on British TV? Not to worry. With their latest equipment, extensive experience and fantastic aftersales service, they provide all UK and European TV via satellite and Internet installations. So don’t miss out on all the summer sporting action, phone or email Britsat for a competitive quote and expert advice. M. 649 605 917 info@britsatlive.com www.britsatlive.com
Ibex - INSURANCE SERVICES Ibex have been in operation since 2000 and have grown to be one of the largest insurance providers for the expatriate community in Spain, Portugal and Gibraltar. They can insure your car, motorbike, home, pet, health, holiday home, boat, travel, business and provide funeral plans and more. ibexdirect@ibexinsure.com T. 900 102 527 www.ibexinsure.com
Language Deaprtment - LANGUAGE SERVICE Language Department is a global language service provider offering translations, adaptations, localizations, voice-over and subtitling services and more for businesses around the world. Our team specializes in recurring language projects for business, legal, medical, marketing and the technology sector. Save10% on your first order! C/ Sardenya, 299. Planta 5 T. 93 380 1061 www.languagedepartment.com
BCN L.I.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL BCN LIP language school is a small school located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn Spanish, Catalan, English, French, German, Portuguese, Russian, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Hebrew. The courses are intensive and extensive, varying from four - 30 hours a week, Monday to Saturday. The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience. They also offer specialised summer programmes, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.
Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com
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IN THE CITY
OUT AND ABOUT
American Society of Barcelona (ASB) Halloween Party.
Melissa Marquez, Victoria Coates and Javier Castillo.
Alexander Lofberg and Nicole Dicrescenza.
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José Rodriguez and Klára Kodetová.
Lauren Romeo, Sandra Cress, Doug Cress and Alberto Betella.
Kurt Krumperman, Diana Heredia, Klára Kodetová, Carolina Lima and Ruairí Ó Donnchadha.
Legal Services for Expats Expat Legal Services Group is a U.S.-based law firm offering customized legal solutions to American expats and foreign nationals with personal and economic ties to the United States. Our attorneys monitor changes to the global legal and financial environment and we work with a network of local partners globally allowing us to deliver a holistic legal solution. Catering directly to the U.S. cross border community, we assist our clients in planning for the future and maintaining active compliance with tax, social security, and immigration laws despite challenges created by the international landscape.
U.S. Immigration Law
Cross Border Estate Planning
• Family-Based Immigration Matters
• Estate and Gift Planning Strategies
• Consular Processing
• Expat Wills and Related Documents
• Adjustment of Status
• SSA Assistance
• U.S. Citizenship • Foreign Adoption Consulting
International Taxation • International Tax Planning
Global Business Services • Cross Border Business Planning
• Voluntary Tax Disclosure
• U.S. Business Formation
• Expatriation
• U.S. Real Estate
• International Tax Controversy
ExpatLegal.com info@expatlegal.com • 1.888.502.8579