BASEstudents Postgraduate Learning Journal 2023

Postgraduate 2023 | BASE habitat Learning Journal

Guest House at Baan Doi

BAAN DOI

Text credits: Marta Rota

BAAN DOI is an NGO located in Thailand‘s Chiang Rai province, where the borders of Laos and Myanmar meet. Near the border town of Mae Sai, the NGO runs a home for 20 orphans and offers projects for underprivileged children in the region. Barbara Meisl cofounded the NGO over 15 years ago and her goal is to give young people a good education and job opportunities for their future.

(Credits: Ibn Talib)

(Credits: Barbara Meisl)

(Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

(Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

(Credits: Barbara Meisl)

This booklet is a compiled report of documentation of the construction semester at BAAN DOI, Mae Sai, Thailand from 04 October 2022 to 16 December 2022

Each section gives a detailed account of the different components of the design and construction process. by BASEhabitat Postgraduate batch of 2023

Cover Image credits: Ibn Talib

1. Design Phase at Studio

1.1 Design Explorations

The first step of approach the construction semester involved design explorations at the studio, headed by Florian Fend. The masterplan of the site prepared by the masters students in 2018 provided the foundation for our discussions.

These design explorations were split into two weeks. The first week focused on bamboo explorations with expert lectures from Flavia Mattel and design inputs and feedback from Philipp Reinsberg.

The postgrad team was split into three groups, each group taking their turn to explore the project in three different scales - urban scale at 1:200, building scale at 1:50 and a detail scale at 1:2 to explore bamboo joinery.

The second week involved schematic design iterations with groups working on different components of construction such as bamboo roof, ceiling, openings and guest house spatial planning in building scale and masterplan scale.

Exploring bamboo details (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

Discussing 1:2 details (Credits: Florian Fend)

Exploring weaving techniques (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Roof explorations (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

Design Phase & Preparation for site

Discussing the explored forms and details (Credits: Florian Fend)

1:2 scale as furniture (Credits: Florian Fend )

Sigi testing one of the stool designs (Credits: Florian Fend)

1:50 building scale exploration (Credits: Indira Orderique)

1:200 urban scale explorations (Credits: Florian Fend)

1.2 Schematic Ideas

The brief was to develop a design for the guesthouses in the farm. As planned earlier with the masters students, there would be 4 guest house units - 3 single units and 1 double unit. Our focus lay in one of the single units and to devise a design language that could be adapted for the other guest house designs.

The main requirements for the guest house were a bedroom space, en-suite bath, a kitchenette and a deck area which offers panaromic views of the farm. Since the area gets heavy rainfall and the direction of the rains could almost become horizontal, a deep roof overhang was a requirement.

Looking at the different design explorations, we chose one of the urban scale models as a base and explored that line of thought further through our schematic design ideas.

Initial Roof Designs (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Initial Roof Designs (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Initial Roof Designs (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

1.2 Schematic Ideas

As we already had information on the soil type available at site and locally in the context, we decided on adobe with fired masonry below as our walling method. This would also help with having a thermal mass for the structure. We wanted to explore a soft geometric form for the walls that wraps around and have a continuous view from the bed to the fields.

1.2 Schematic Ideas

Divided into several groups, we set out to explore design details for the rest of the components in the building.

Bamboo was decided as the material for roofing and the frame structure as they were a locally available resource. The possible connections and supports for the triangulated roof were explored. However, these were to be adapted depending on the available sizes of the bamboo at site.

Section aa (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

Section bb (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

Section cc (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

2. Final Drawings

Once we arrived at site, we adapted the layout as per actual site dimensions and with further client discussions. The final plan that was constructed is shown below.

Elevation b (Credits: Florian Fend)

Elevation a (Credits: Florian Fend)

towards family house

future guest houses

lakeside entry

Elevation d (Credits: Florian Fend)

Elevation c (Credits: Florian Fend)

lakeside entry

sheet metal roofing

total area = 112 m²

thickness = 0,7 mm

color = natural gray bought @ ?

bamboo battons

Ø 5-7cm

total length = 122 m

bought @ ?

treatment @ BAAN DOI

bamboo structure

Ø 5-7cm

total length = 520 m bought @ ?

treatment @ BAAN DOI

bamboo columns

Ø 12-16cm

total length = 105 m

connected w. concrete foundation by rebar, concrete infill and bolts bought @ ?

treatment @ BAAN DOI

ceiling fired bricks

dimensions 27 x 13,5 x 4,5 cm, area = 21,10 m², amount = 580 qty bought @ ?

ceiling wooden rafters

dimensions, total length = 78 m bought @ ?

walls

dimensions fired bricks (capillary breaker, 30cm): total amount = 1071 qty

dimensions adobe: 29 x 14 x 10 cm, total amount = 2156 qty

plaster

bedroom: total area = 34 m² , interior ground plaster: t = 2 cm, interior fine plaster: t = 0,5 cm

bathroom: total area = 19 m², interior ground plaster: t = 2 cm, interior fine plaster: t = 0,5 cm

exterior: total area = 48 m², ground plaster: t = 2 cm, exterior fine plaster: t = 0,5 cm

openings w concrete linthels 10 cm in height, window width + 40 cm = total width, depth = 28 cm

windows and doors from rubberwood

local carpenter origin of wood?

floors

bathroom: cement floor, thickness = 7cm, total area = 3,85 m², total volume = 0,27 m³

bedroom: cement / lime floor, thickness = 7cm, total area = 12,14 m², total volume = 0,85 m³

terrace: bamboo splits 2 layers, total area = 15,12 m²

bamboo battons terrace

Ø 5-7cm

total length = 84 m

foundation

concrete 30 cm, Total Area = 28,16 m², Volume = 9,41 m³

steel reinforcement:

Ø12mm total length = 691 m

Ø8mm total length = 58 m

weeks tasks

3. Getting ready at site

3.1 Construction Schedule

foundation

bamboo prep

bamboo roof

roof cladding

masonry services openings ceiling plastering flooring

3.2 Terminology

sand sai enough por bamboo mai pai window natang rice plhueng khao husk

gravel krawd slow cha cha door pratu glass krajoke straw fhung

earth din fast reyo screw sakru brick ith timber khon mai

water naam plaster chupp nail thapu sun pra ar tit roof lhungka

cement cement column sao lime hinpunh lake bor num wall khumpang

3.3 Introducing the construction site

workshop: adobe production & bamboo treatment tool shed

bamboo drying zone

storage: adobe stacking area guest house

driveway: outside adobe production roof assembling zone stream used for washing bamboos

restrooms

cow shed

Aerial view of the site (Credits: Florian Fend)

Family house exterior (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

Towards the workshop (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

Family house roof (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

Family house (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

Dining area (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

Adobe blocks basking in the golden hour sun

1. Adobe Module

1.1 Initial Preparation

For the initial preparation of adobe blocks, the two main tasks undertaken were -

• Deciding on the adobe block size

• Arriving at the ideal adobe mix

Size of the bricks

The main factor in deciding the size of the bricks was the size of the fired bricks available at the market as the bottom courses of the masonry would be built out of fired bricks.

The types of bricks available at site:

Machine made bricks - 18cm x 10cm x 4.7cm

Floor Bricks - 26cm x 13cm x 4.5cm

The machine made bricks had grooves on all sides and were relatively even in size. The handmade bricks were not even in size but the imperfections had their charm and were used previously for the family house.

However, owing to the number of bricks available at site and the cost of the bricks, the machine made bricks were chosen for the bottom masonry. And, the size of the adobe blocks were decided as 29 cm x 14cm x 10cm while allowing for 1cm mortar thickness.

Sample mould

The block sizes were compared with the previously sampled ones at the workshop, done for the family house. They were made with four blocks in a frame. However, it was felt that it was too huge to handle and considering the volume of adobe required to be made, it was decided we would begin with one block in a frame and let the production process guide us with the necesssary improvisations.

One block in a frame -

A sample mould of one block in a frame was made with scrap wood available at the workshop to test out different mixes.The scrap wood was prelaminated and placed with the smooth part inside it was felt that this would aid in easily lifting the block off the mould during production.

1. Adobe Module

Available fired bricks at site (Credits: Florian Fend)

Studying the previous moulds (Credits: Florian Fend)

Module in the making (Credits:Samyuktha Rajeev)

Module in the making (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

Further Optimisation

Three blocks in a frame -

Once the earth mix was finalised (detailed in the next section) and to subsequently to help with better production speed, a module of three blocks in a frame was first made as an improvisation. This mould required a minimum of two people working on it and there was difficulty in ensuring even pressure on all the three pockets, while lifting. More time and more energy were being spent on this mould while producing less bricks.

Two blocks in a frame -

Therefore, as an intermediate approach, a mould of two blocks in a frame was made. This, as expected, helped with speed and more bricks were being produced. Initially, two people a mould were required but over time, the team also became comfortable in handling it individually.

Structure of the mould

Over time and usage, the scrap wood began to expand and gave way notwithstanding the pressure and the amount of water used at every use.

More number of ‘two in a frame‘ moulds were made, this time with a new plywood to help with the warp. And a double ply was added to in the middle for additional strength and to ensure ‘smooth side in‘ for both pockets.

Testing the first module and mix (Credits: Samyuktha)

Three blocks in a frame (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

Making three at a time (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

Types of modules made (Credits: Prarthana Murali)

First module of three is ready! (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Making nails out of staplers (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

Improvised hack with staplers to repair the module (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

Comparison of modules (Credits: Pooja Parameswararao)

Testing the first module (Credits: Indira Orderique)

2. Adobe Mix

The earth available at site was highly clayey in nature and the colours varied from tones of grey and black to small traces of ochre. Due to the high amount of clay, it was not the ideal base to use for construction and and the earth for the adobe was brought from outside. This colour was generally of a vibrant tone of terracotta.

For the mix, there were two types of fibres available at site - rice husk (comparatively more in quantity) and straw. So, two sets of explorations were done: one with rice husk and another with straw (long & short) while noting down the amount of water used with each mix.

2.1 Sample soil tests

fibre type

rice husk

rice husk

straw

straw

rice husk

rice husk

The mixes 01 to 04 were done for both the fibres and more variations in mix was done with rice husk, as shown for 05 & 06. These mixes were tested out in the sample adobe modules as well as in a cookie mould. The results of the cookie test were as follows:

1 - breaks easily and high shrinkage

2 - breaks easily and moderate shrinkage

3 - shrinks less and more stable

4 - shrinks less and more stable

The inference of the test was that straw helped more with the stability and binding of the blocks than rice husk.

Results of sample adobe blocks and cookie test (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

Luwaga testing the earth brought from outside (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

Piles of sand and earth beside the workshop (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Shovel mixing inside the tub (Credits: Prarthana Murali)

2. Adobe Mix

2.2 Final mix

Since the risk husk was available in more quantity, it was decided to use a combination of both fibres. After testing on several adobe blocks during production, based on how the mix felt while throwing and how it was able to hold the form, the quantity of the components were changed. After this series of explorations, the final mix that was decided on was

2.3 Mixing Process

The preparation of the mix first involved preparing the components within it, especially getting the straw cut to medium length.

01 preparing components

The initial pile of earth that was used in production had a lot of stones and removing the stones from added a step to the process. As illustrated below, the mixing happened inside a tub with water added in increments. The challenges with this process inside a tub were that there was a lot of waiting time between piles, uneven mixing with dry bits found in along the edge of the tub.

Measuring sieved earth (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Initial straw cutting setup (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Straws being added to dry mix (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Stomping earth inside tub (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

rice husk measured & kept aside straw cut to medium length, measured

removing large stones

Straw cutting improvisation by Kaarel (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

Earth being sieved (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Straw mixed with earth (Credits: Indira Orderique)

Dry mixing with the tarp(Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

Cigar test (Credits: Pooja Parameswararao)

Adobe mixing dance (Credits: Prarthana Murali)

Adobe Production

2. Adobe Mix

Optimised flow

The mixing process was gradually optimised for efficiency, as illustrated below. Three groups were split - one person preparing the fibre, two people sieving the earth, three to four people preparing the mix and the rest making the adobe bricks. From day 6 to day 8, we were joined by the kids which made the process so much faster and fun! On day 9, we were joined by Sak‘s team and they helped with preparing the mix while the postgrad team focused on making the bricks.

for its consistency by the tarp being rolled over to see if the cigar shape is able to hold its form or crumbly or too plastic. this step is repeated until it reaches the right ratio.

the tarp with the dry adobe mix is rolled in all four directions for even mixing and then gradually mixed with water through stomping.

025

01 preparing earth

03 preparing fibres

04 mixing process

3. Adobe Making

On an average, two to three mixes were prepared for that day‘s production while preparing another mix at the end of the day for the next day. With the optimised process, the number of mixes during a day increased.

The first step before beginning the adobe production was understanding the space available to make and lay out the adobe blocks. The workshop space provided a roof to protect the blocks from the impending rainy weather forecast, so production of works began there while later on supplementing it with driveway outside, as marked in the aerial shot of the site in chapter 1.

An illustrated plan of the available workshop space shown below:

Sketch of the workshop space (Credits: Prarthana Murali)

Workshop space (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

bamboo treatment pond adobe mixing adobe block production

3. Adobe Making

3.1 Step-by-step process

The preliminary step began with sprinkling sand over the surface where the blocks would be laid out. The next steps in the process, like the other processes detailed were optimised gradually to be more efficient.

01 getting the mould components ready

to scrape out the extra earth on the mould before lifting the mould off the

02 surface preparation

corners being filled first

extra earth being scraped out

04 throwing

027

the board placed over the brick to prevent the earth from lifting off while removing the mould

03 washing the module parts

supports to hold & lift the mould off rotated to the side for even drying

05 drying & stacking

Adobe Production (Credits: Florian Fend)

Adobe modules being washed after use (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

Adobe making (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

Preparing the spheres of mud (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Adobes rotated for even drying (Credits: Prarthana Murali)

Adobe Production

3. Adobe Making

3.2 Adobe Production log

Below is an approximate account of the daily number of adobe blocks made during the first two weeks.

by postgrad team by postgrad team by postgrad team joined by sak’s team

joined by the kids from baan doihelped with more mixes for the day!

till lunch

Adobe blocks stacked after partial drying (Credits: Florian Fend)

Making a barrier with sand and fired bricks (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

Makeshift roof for the adobes (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

An Adobe weighs 5 kilos! (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Adobe Production

Outside production space (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

Introduction

One of the first activities on site was the preparation of the terrain: leveling and creation of the concrete slab. An initial step necessary to continue with the columns and roof of the structure.

The group faced certain challenges, as the site was located on an unstable terrain, a main support beam was created to anchor the building to the ground. Attached to this beam, a concrete slab was built to be the main platform of the project and distribute the building forces evenly on the ground.

1. Leveling the terrain

Using the DUMPY level

1. Mark the perimeter of the slab with wood stilts. You can confirm the placement of the sticks by following the triangulation rule.

2. Place the DUMPY level in a location outside of the building terrain.

3. Level the device: Look for a traditional bubble level located on the device. Grab the 2 leveling screws that are parallel to the device’s telescope and twist them in opposite directions. Do this until the bubble sits in the exact center of the level.

4. Through the dumpy level lens, while a person holds a measuring device, find the highest point in the terrain this will be your benchmark location.

5. Measure the distance from this point to the ground. This will be the distance utilized to find the same level in the next points.

6. Mark your level on the different points: A person will hold a measuring device and move to each point marking the given measurement. Then mark it on each of the perimeter sticks.

7. Once you have the measurement in each stick, the level has been marked. This is a reference point to mark higher level points on each stick.

Note: For the leveling process, three persons are necessary. One observing through the dumpy level lens, one holding the measuring device and one marking the level on the sticks.

2. Level the device (Credits: Indira Orderique)

3. Find the highest point (Credits: Indira Orderique)

6. Measure the same distance (Credits: Prarthana Murali)

7. Mark the level on all points(Credits: Indira Orderique)

1.Triangulation rule (Credits: Indira Orderique)

Finding the level points (Credits: Indira Orderique)

Group effort (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Compacting the earth

The next step consisted on leveling and compacting the site based on the level points marked on the previous step.

The first step was to dig a hole for the concrete lower beam that was placed near the edge of the terrain towards the lake.

Next, with a tractor harrow the soil was broken into smaller pieces and smoothen. The terrain was roughly leveled and prepared for the final layer of sand. To compact the soil before the layer of sand, it was deeply watered. Then, a final layer of sand was applied evenly through the terrain, allowing for a finer finish that would achieve a more accurate leveled surface.

Finally, a tamper was used to compact profoundly the terrain and achieve the final finish.

Digging the hole for the lower beam (Credits: Indira Orderique)

Applying an even layer of sand(Credits: Rikunj Shaw)

Terrain leveled (Credits: Prarthana Murali)

Creating a magical world (Credits: Indira Orderique)

Compacting with a tamper (Credits: Rikunj Shaw)

Tractor harrow (Credits: Indira Orderique)

2. Lower Beam Formwork

Building the framework

With the help of a wood tool and a metal bar with an anchor, each metal rod was bent into the desired shape. The beam framework was built and placed inside the hole prepared for it. The beam was 45 cm wide.

Pouring concrete into the beam

The concrete was mixed by hand and through an intense group effort, the main beam was poured. With the help of a wood stick, members of the group helped the mix to loose air bubbled inside the framework and evenly distribute the mix throughout the structure to achieve better results.

2. Bending the metal rods (Credits: Indira Orderique)

3. Connecting the rods (Credits: Prarthana Murali)

Pouring the concrete(Credits: Prarthana Murali)

Placing the beam in position (Credits: Prarthana Murali)

3.

Making the structure for the floorslab

All metal rod pieces were bent into the desired shape to achieve the final formwork. Once they were all ready, the team placed them on site, first connecting the first layer of rods to the existing lower beam structure, respecting a spacement of 20 cm between rods. The second layer of rods was placed perpendicular and also spaced by 20 cm. Concrete spacers of 6.5 cm where placed on the ground to support the metal rods and achieve an even structure.

Once all bars were set in place, a team moved through the structure, with a ruler, plier and metal wire to make all connections accurately.

Installing the structure that will hold the projects columns

All connections to future columns were also installed and placed in position. To achieve this, a metal rod was connected to the slab framework and prolongated above the slab to later connect to the bottom of the column.

Planing for water connections

Additionally, all water connection pipes that were designed to go underground were installed. The team dig holes with the a slope that would allow all sanitary connections to work properly, and then installed the pipes. All pipes were prolongated above the slab finish to then be cut to the right height depending on their function.

Encofrado

Finally, wood sheathings where installed in the edges of the framework with diagonal wood struts to sustain the weight of the concrete to be poured.

Concrete spacer (Credits: Indira Orderique)

Installing first layer of metal rods (Credits: Indira Orderique)

Digging holes for underground water pipes (Credits: Indira Orderique)

Connection to lower beam framework (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

Metal rods placed 20 cm appart (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

Making connections between rods (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

Placement of underground water pipes (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

Connection metal rods to columns (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

Framework ready to pour concrete (Credits: Indira Orderique)

042

4. Pouring the concrete Process

Once the framework is ready, the site must be watered deeply, so the concrete poured can dry evenly and the bottom layer will not absorb the moisture rapidly. Additionally, the bottom layer of sand absorbs the shock from the concrete poured.

The concrete was prepared and poured with a mixer, and with the help of bamboo sticks, the team vibrated the mix to distribute it evenly throughout the site.

Finally, a long metal bar was used to smoothen the surface and create an even finish.

Calculations

The total surface area of the plate was 28.8 sq.m with a 30cm height.

Volume = Surface area x height 28.8 sq.m x 0.3 m= 8.64 cubic meters

Weight of one cubic meter of concrete: 2.5 ton

Slab weight = Volume x weight of cubic meter 8.64 x 2.5 tons= 21.6 tons

1 full concrete mixer carries 2 cubic meters, therefore 4 3/4 full mixes were applied to the finished slab.

2. Watering the terrain(Credits: Indira Orderique)

3. Concrete mixer (Credits: Prarthana Murali)

Vibrating the mix manually (Credits: Prarthana Murali)

Pouring concrete (Credits: Prarthana Murali)

Challenges (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

Finished slab ready to begin drying process (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)

Finished foundation slab post drying (Credits: Florian Fend)

4

Bamboo Preparation &

1. Preparation for Treatment

1.1 Trimming & Drilling

Trimming

Bamboos need to be trimmed around the edges before they can be cleaned for treatment.

While harvesting the Bamboos, they end up having a sharp edge towards the root and this needs to be chopped off around the nearest node.

This prevents any accident during cleaning and treating and makes it easier to stack them during the drying process.

Drilling

All the Bamboos must be drilled throughout such that the treatment mixture can pass through its entire length. A long drilling rod was used to reach the deepest part of the Bamboo. If the rod fell short, then the remaining part was drilled using a small drill machine. The treatment mixture can pass through and dissolve the sugar content from within the nodes.

(explained in the further slides)

1.2 Scrubbing the surface

The Bamboo with larger diameters (18 cm dia) were drilled after scrubbing the surfaces so that it does not get heavier with water. While the thinner bamboos (6 to 8 cm dia) were drilled before they were thrown into the water body. Heavier side of the larger bamboos were thrown first into the water body making it easier to navigate and accomodate all the bamboos.

As they are fresh after being harvested, all the bamboos have molds, black and white spots on them and hair around the nodes.

The molds must be scrubbed and cleaned off for treatment, while the hair ensures the treated bamboo has a smooth surface.

This process is done before treatment because the bamboos are fresh making it convenient to scrub them off easily. However, while scrubbing ensure that there aren‘t any scratch marks that could possibly damage the bamboo‘s strength and resistance to cracks.

Trimming the edges (Credits: Samyuktha)

Workshop space for trimming (Credits: Sigurd)

Drilling through all the nodes (Credits: Sigurd)

Drilling through the last nodes (Credits: Samyuktha)

Arranging Bamboos for cleaning (Credits: Samyuktha)

Ready for Treatment (Credits: Samyuktha)

„If it can‘t be done with Bamboo, it probably shouldn‘t be done.“

Fred Hornaday

Half a day‘s work of scrubbing and cleaning (Credits: Sigurd)

Bamboo Preparation & Treatment

2. Treating Bamboo

2.1 Preparing the Mixture

Ratio of the Mixture

1000L water : 25kg borax (2.5% of water quantity) : 25kg boric (2.5% of water quantity)

Here: the tank is filled upto 50 cm in height 7000L of water, 175 kg of borax and boric acid each 1 bag of borax and boric acid= 25 kgs (7 bags each)

Firstly, cook the borax and boric acid in boiling water. It must be stirred constantly to ensure there are no lumps. Borax and boric acid are a cold powder mix by nature and the boiling water becomes lukewarm once powder is added, hence the water must be constantly boiling over fire. After the tank is filled with room temperature water, the mixture of borax and boric acid is added to it and mixed well.

The Bamboos were thrown into this tank, the heavier side of the bamboo towards the lower end of the slope. The thicker bamboo must be into the tank for atleast 14 days, while the thinner bamboos must be left for atleast 7 to 10 days.

They can reuse the same solution upto 3 years till the borax and boric acid loses its chemical properties. The solution was later stored in the blue tanks that could hold upto 8000L.

Bamboo Preparation & Treatment

Cool water filled upto 50cm ht (Credits: Samyuktha)

Boiling water for Borax and Boric (Credits: Samyuktha)

Stirring the Chemical soup (Credits: Samyuktha)

1 bag of Borax and Boric acid each (Credits: Samyuktha)

2.2 Curing Process

The Bamboos need to be fully submerged into the water for effective treatment throughout. The chemical liquid penetrates through all the nodes and dissolves the sugar content from within the bamboo. This ensures that the bamboo does not attract any insects or termites.

It takes a while for the bamboo to be filled with water and settle at the bottom due its weight. Hence, some weight needs to be added initially to hold them under water. 3 people stepping on it did not serve the purpose and the heavier bamboos kept resurfacing. A solution for holding the bamboos for 14 days under water had to be thought of. We built up a temporary structure with the support of the existing roof structure using other treated bamboos and wooden planks. The structure resisted the pressure applied by the rising bamboo and worked well under compression.

The sugar content dissolved with the chemicals formed a thin layer of white residue on the surface of the water. With time, the white residue got thicker and covered the surface entirely.

After 7 days, the residue appeared like thin sheets and had a sticky consistency. Since the sugar content is dissolved with the chemicals, the water had a foul, strong smell.

Setting the water for treatment (Credits: Samyuktha)

Sound of Bubbles while water fills (Credits: Samyuktha)

Holding down the rising Bamboos (Credits: Samyuktha)

Building the Temporary structure (Credits: Samyuktha)

10 mins into Curing (Credits: Samyuktha)

7 days into Curing (Credits: Samyuktha)

8 days into Curing (Credits: Samyuktha)

Draining water out of the bamboos (Credits: Samyuktha)

14 days into Curing (Credits: Samyuktha)

Storing the mixture for future reuse (Credits: Samyuktha)

15 days into Curing (Credits: Samyuktha)

9 days into Curing (Credits: Samyuktha)

3. Preparation for Construction

3.1 Cleaning the residue

The thinner bamboos were taken out after 9 days, while thicker bamboos were taken out after 14 days.

Water from within the bamboos must be cleared out completely before drying, thus reusing the water for later.

Once the bamboos are out of the water, they need to be washed properly ensuring that there is no residue of the treatment mixture.

The surface can be scrubbed using a smooth cloth that produces a soapy film and later can be washed with cool water. Once they are cleaned, they can be sent for drying.

3.2 Drying Process

The bamboos were lined up vertically such that any extra water content trapped within the nodes will be drained off. As the bamboos dry, they lose their green color and turn yellow. Once the entire bamboo is yellow, it usually indicates that the bamboo is ready for construction use.

The thinner bamboos, although a bit wet, were used after 4 days of drying. They usually attain their structural properties while continuing to dry.

In such cases, one should ensure that no water content is still trapped in the nodes and should take the shrinkage of the bamboo into consideration.

054

Draining the water for further drying (Credits: Samyuktha)

Ensuring water is drained out completely (Credits: Samyuktha)

Lightly washing off the chemical residue (Credits: Samyuktha)

054

Bamboo Preparation & Treatment

Bamboos stacked up vertically for drying (Credits: Samyuktha)

5

Bamboo framework & terrace

Pooja Parameswararao

•

1. Bamboo construction

Bamboo selection

Selecting the appropriate bamboo is a crucial aspect when working with this material. Here key consideration for choosing the right bamboo for each specific purpose:

For the vertical columns, which have heights ranging from 2.8m to 3.8m, bamboo pieces with diameters between 14cm to 18cm are considered. The thickest bamboo sections are chosen for these structural elements since they need to bear significant loads.

Similarly, when it comes to the terrace overhang beam, which has a length of 2.5m, bamboo pieces with a diameter within the range of 14cm to 18cm are utilized. The thickest bamboo sections are again preferred for this beam, as it is responsible for supporting heavy loads.

By selecting the suitable diameters or utilizing the thickest bamboo pieces, the structural integrity of the columns, bracings, and overhang beams can be guaranteed, allowing them to efficiently support the required weight.

Structure design

The structure design of the guest house prototype combines a non-load bearing adobe unit with a freestanding lightweight bamboo column and roof structure. Here are the key structural elements of the design:

The entire roof is supported by a total of 9 vertical columns. Each straight column is accompanied by 1 to 3 bracings, depending on the structural requirements and design. These columns are securely anchored to the concrete plate using a bolt system, and the base of the vertical bamboo columns is concreted to establish a strong connection with the foundation.

For the deck space that faces the pond, a cantilevered terrace is proposed. This terrace is supported by bamboo beams, which extend from the concrete plate. To anchor the bamboo beams, 50cm steel bars are utilized.

To provide support and stability to the cantilevered terrace, four horizontal beams are incorporated into the design. These beams are reinforced by two diagonal beams on each side, forming a scissor-like pattern to create bracing for each beam.

View of installed bamboo beams providing structural support for the deck (Credits: Pooja)

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060 Bamboo framework & Terrace

2. Bamboo cantilevered terrace

Setting up the Bamboo overhang beams

Step 1: Clearing the Site

The site is cleared by removing any soil or concrete residue from the area where the cantilevered bamboo beams will be installed. The steel rods, which will hold the beams, were already positioned during the casting of the concrete plate.

Step 2: Bamboo Selection

Choose a large-sized bamboo for the beams. For the cantilever beam, there are three members: one horizontal and two diagonals. Select bamboo with a thick wall for the horizontal members to withstand tension forces, and use bamboo with thinner walls for the diagonal members, as they primarily handle compression forces.

Step 3: Template and Marking

Draw the axis line of the designed cantilevered beam on the floor. Place the selected bamboo along the axis line to mark the base and end of both beam members, ensuring the desired length is achieved. Before beginning the cutting process, wrap sandpaper around the marked end of the bamboo to create a reference line for cutting.

For the cantilever beams, there are three columns that rest on it. Therefore, mark the end of the horizontal member near the node, ensuring that the node comes after the column junction. As for the diagonal members, mark the end near the node, making sure it is before the column junction.

When cutting the bamboo, it is recommended to add a minimum of 30cm extra length beyond the required measurement (preferably cutting after one node than needed).

Clearing the site (Credits: Pooja)

Overhang beam measurement (Credits: Florian)

Drawing the traingle on scale (Credits: Pooja)

Cutting the bamboo using the saw (Credits: Prarthana)

Step 4: Beam Preparation

For the four sets of cantilevered beams, proceed with cutting the marked lengths for all the diagonal and horizontal members. Additionally, drill the first node at the base of the beams.

Step 5: Preparing the Rebar Support

To test the strength of the designed cantilever beam, a sample set is placed for evaluation. It is determined that additional support is required for the horizontal members, leading to the decision of incorporating two metal plates along with the rebars.

Two metal plates, measuring 8.3 x 4cm in size, are welded to the steel rebars. Care is taken to ensure that the plates are not welded directly at the nodes. The distance between nodes is measured, and the plates are positioned accordingly to maintain proper alignment.

Step 6: Securing the Beams

The base part of the beam was inserted through the rebars. The free end is then fixed by tying it to the temporarily fixed poles, ensuring proper positioning.

A water level was utilized to verify the linearity of each beam and with the other beams.

Next, bolted the horizontal member to the two metal plates. Similarly, fastened the two diagonal members to the horizontal member by using bolts to secure them together. Utilized a 10mm diameter screw to bolt the large-sized bamboos in place.

View of drilled node of the bamboo (Credits: Pooja)

Testing the fist set of beam on site (Credits: Pooja)

Welding the metal plates to the steel rod(Credits: Pooja)

Inserting the bamboo into the steel rod (Credits: Pooja)

Bolting the bamboo with the metal plate (Credits: Samyuktha)

Step 7: Leveling

After bolting and fixing all the cantilevered beams, the distance between each beam is carefully cross-checked. To secure its position, two thin bamboos are placed across the four beams and securely tied together.

Next, the horizontal level of the beams is assessed. A large level is positioned over the four beams, and a water level indicator is used to verify the horizontality of the structure. This process is conducted at multiple points along the base, middle, and end of each beam to ensure consistency and accuracy.

Step 8: Concreting

To begin the concreting process, a 5cm diameter hole is created near the base of the beam, positioned approximately 50cm away from the wall end. This allows for the concrete to be poured away from the metal plate.

In order to prevent concrete spillage through gaps between the wall and bamboo, wet clay sourced from the pond is applied at the base of the beam. This effectively fills the gaps and acts as a barrier. Once the clay has dried, a concrete mixture with a ratio of 1 part cement, 2 parts sand, and 3 parts gravel is prepared, ensuring a fluid consistency.

Using a funnel, the concrete mixture is poured inside the bamboo. Simultaneously, a hammer with a stone drill bit is used as a vibrator on the bamboo surface to consolidate the concrete. Additionally, a flexible metal rod or split bamboo is employed to poke and evenly distribute the concrete inside the bamboo.

Once the concrete is filled, the bamboos are cleaned, and the holes are covered using the same cut bamboo pieces. Finally, all four beams are securely fastened to the concrete plate.

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View of fixed bamboo overhang beams (Credits: Pooja)

Drilling hole in the bamboo beam (Credits: Pooja)

Covering the gap with clay (Credits: Pooja)

Filling the bamboo base with concrete (Credits: Pooja)

View of closing the hole using the cut piece (Credits: Pooja)

View of fixed end of overhang beam after concreting (Credits: Sigurd)

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View of vertical columns secured and levelled (Credits: Sigurd)

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3. Bamboo columns

3.1 Setting up the vertical Bamboo Columns on the concrete plate

Step 1: Marking the Positions based on the Drawing

Begin by marking the positions of the bamboo columns and outlining the adobe wall on the concrete plate. The steel rods intended to be inserted into the columns were already positioned during the casting of the concrete plate.

Now, Mark the centerline for all the six vertical columns. And draw the ridge line to serve as a reference for aligning the roof.

Step 2: Bamboo Selection

Choose bamboo with a large diameter that is appropriate for use as columns. Ensure that the selected bamboo is straight and free from any cracks.

Step 3: Marking the Bamboo

Mark the desired heights by indicating the bottom and top edges of the column. The top edge should be closer to the node, while the bottom can be more flexible, though it is advisable to have a node closer to the edge.

Wrap sandpaper (or any suitable material) around the marked end of the bamboo to create a reference line for cutting.

Step 4: Bamboo Cutting

Using a circular saw, carefully cut the bamboo along the marked line. However, the available saw is too small to cut larger-sized bamboos, the bamboo needs to be rotated and cut in 2 to 3 attempts. It is important that the bottom edge should be as straight and precise as possible.

View of drawing with column heights (Credits: Florian)

The top end marked close to the node (Credits: Pooja)

Marking the end using sand paper (Credits: Pooja)

Cutting the bamboo using circular saw (Credits: Prarthana)

Step 5: Column Preparation

To insert the bottom end of the column onto the steel rod, drill holes through the bottom node. Additionally, the second node from the bottom is cut to allow concrete to be poured in order to secure the column.

A power drill equipped with a hole saw bit is used to cut the first node, while the distance to the second node is drilled using a lengthy bit and then chiseled with a rod and hammer.

Step 6: Erecting the Columns

After preparing all six straight columns, a 5cm diameter hole is made on the bamboo surface just above the second node from the base. A template is used for positioning and retained the cut-out piece to be later used for covering the hole after concreting.

Begin by placing the two columns that align with the roof‘s ridge line axis onto the steel rods. Sharpen small bamboo poles at the bottom end and secure them into the ground.

Next, tie thin bamboo poles at one end to the column and at the other end to the small bamboo poles in the ground, resembling the construction of a tent. Repeat this process for the other two columns.

Then, attach a pole next to each column with a top end cut at an angle. These additional poles serve as temporary supports for the first triangle of the roof.

After positioning the roof structure, the remaining four straight columns are placed in the same manner. The vertical level of each column is then assessed from all directions and adjusted as needed before secured to the concrete plate

Step 7: Concrete Application

Next, pour concrete with a ratio of 1:2:3 into the bamboo columns. Use a hammer to ensure the concrete settles down properly.

Once the concrete is in place, clean the surface and seal the hole using the cut-out piece from the same bamboo. Secure all six straight columns firmly to the concrete plate.

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Remving the node using hammer and chisel (Credits: Pooja)

Fixing the vertical column (Credits: Pooja)

Template to drill the hole (Credits: Pooja)

Pouring concrete into the column (Credits: Pooja)

Cutting the bamboo base for meaurement (Credits: Samyuktha)

Drilling hole in the node (Credits: Prarthana)

Buildng scaffolding (Credits: Samyuktha)

Leveling the column height to place the roof structure (Credits: Pooja)

View of concrete mixing (Credits: Pooja)

Fixing the vertical column (Credits: Pooja)

Covering the bottom gaps using the wet clay (Credits: Pooja)

View of fixing the vetical column after placing the roof structure (Credits: Prarthana)

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View of fish mouth joint (Credits: Sigurd)

3. Bamboo columns

3.2 Setting up the vertical Bamboo Columns on the cantilevered terrace

In contrast to fixing the columns with a concrete plate, the columns in this case need to be secured to bamboo beams. The deck consists of three columns, and straight bamboo pieces are selected. Here‘s a step-by-step process:

Step 1

The top end of the bamboo is marked closer to the node, while the bottom end is prepared for connection to the bamboo beam using a fish mouth joint. To create the joint, mark the bottom end at a measurement equal to the required column height plus the radius of the bamboo used for the beam. The marked end should be closer to the node, with a distance equal to the diameter of the bamboo.

Step 2

Using a hole saw bit, drill the bamboo at the marked end. Draw the shape on the bamboo and cut the end using a saw to achieve the desired fish mouth joint. Sand down any extra edges to refine the joint‘s shape.

Step 3

Take the column to the site and check if the fish mouth joint sits perfectly on top of the deck beam. Sand the edges a few times if necessary to achieve the right fit. Once the fish mouth joint is confirmed, trim the top of the column to measurement.

Step 4

Create a hole using a hole saw bit through the bottom node of the column to insert a T-shaped threaded hook. This hook will be used to screw the column to the bamboo beam. Screw the hook securely into the column.

Driling the column to make fish mouth joint (Credits: Pooja)

Drawing the fish mouth shape (Credits: Pooja)

Sanding the edges (Credits: Pooja)

Testing out the column connecton to beam (Credits: Pooja)

Step 5

Mark the center point of the column on the installed beams and drill a hole at the marked position.

Step 6

Before fixing the column, check its vertical level and then securely screw it to the beam. Tie thin poles from the column to the ground for additional support.

The column located on the ridge line of the roof is placed first, and after the roof is in position, the remaining three columns are fixed to the beam using a similar process. 072

Inserting T-shaped threaded screw (Credits: Pooja)

Marking the column junction on beam (Credits: Pooja)

Bolting the beam with the column (Credits: Pooja)

View of fixing bracing to the overhang beam (Credits: Pooja)

4. Bamboo bracings

Setting up the bracings (supporting columns)

After placing the bamboo roof, the remaining four straight columns and all the supporting columns are installed and firmly bolted to the column plate, deck, and roof structure. The process unfolds as follows:

Step 1:

The height of each diagonal column is measured from the bottom concrete plate to the point of connection with the roof.

Step 2:

Using a measuring stick, the bottom angle of the column is determined, and this measurement is transferred onto the bamboo by drawing a line.

Step 3:

With a saw, the bottom of the column is cut along the marked line. The cut end is then inserted onto the steel bar to verify if it fits perfectly onto the concrete plate. If adjustments are necessary, the edges are sanded to position the supporting column correctly. This procedure is repeated for all the columns, ensuring they are securely fastened to the roof structure.

The support columns in the deck area are fixed in a similar manner as described in section 2.2 Setting up the Bamboo Columns on the cantilevered beam, except for the fish mouth joint at the bottom, which is shaped according to the angle of the support column.

Measuring the bracings length (Credits: Pooja)

Cutting the bottom angle of bracings (Credits: Pooja)

View of bottom edge of the bracings (Credits: Pooja)

View of vertical column and bracings (Credits: Pooja)

5. Notes

It is crucial to ensure that all bamboo is thoroughly dried before using it in the structure. Bamboo tends to shrink as it dries, and if concreting or bolting is done before this process, it can lead to cracks or loose joints, respectively.

The presence of bamboo nodes is crucial. Bamboo columns and beams must have a node as close as possible towards the ends. Without a node, the pressure exerted by the structure on the joint may cause the bamboo to crush. Therefore, it is essential to cut the bamboo as close to the node as feasible.

Checking the vertical and horizontal levels of the columns and beams is imperative to ensure that the roof and cantilevered terrace are properly aligned and straight.

Materials and tools required

Bamboos: Select bamboos with substantial thickness as specified in the design requirements.

Concrete Materials: Cement, gravel, and sand

Threaded Screws and Bolts: Obtain screws and bolts of appropriate length as indicated by the design.

Circular Saw Machine

Hand Saw for cutting smaller bamboo pieces or making precise cuts.

Power Drilling Machine for drilling holes in bamboo.

Hole Saw Bit: This specific bit is used with the drilling machine to create larger holes as needed.

Hard and Soft Hammer: These hammers are essential for driving nails, adjusting bamboo joints as necessary.

Chisel used for breaking the bamboo nodes. Funnel will be useful for pouring concrete efficiently.

Welding Machine If necessary.

Shovel required for moving and spreading materials.

Bracings are done! (Credits: Sigurd)

1. Timetables

1.1 Construction schedule

Construction schedule (Credits: Sigurd)

All works on the roof took place in week 3-6 (October 19 to November 10). The supporting structure of the roof, consisting of rafters and ridge beams, was planned, prefabricated in two parts on the ground and attached to the bamboo supports. The last step depended on the work that followed in the construction plan, namely the erection of the bamboo supports.

1.2 Steps-to-roof schedule

Roof work schedule (Credits: Sigurd)

Bamboo roofing

Bamboo roof work done (Credits: Sigurd)

Bamboo roofing

Eave beam second triangle

Eave beam second triangle

Ridge beam second triangle

The roof was divided into two triangles for logistical reasons. This meant that individual beams and rafters could be easily assembled on the ground and close to materials and tools.

First, the beams A-B-C were built and connected. Then the beams were made, which will bring the load on the supports. Scaffolding was then used to assemble them onto the existing columns.

Bamboo roofing

• • •

For the splayed beams and the rafters of the roof bamboo poles with a length of 600 cm and a diameter of at least 6 cm were selected.

Growth types

Typ A

Typ B

Typ C

It was important that we select only the straight-grown bamboo (typ a) for the beams. Slightly bent or crooked-grown bamboo (typ b&c) could be widely used for different constructions such as the substructure of the roof or bamboo nails.

2.2 Bamboo Pole

Bamboo roofing

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3. Beams, Joinery and Substructure

3.1 Bamboo Beams

As already described, the beams are made of straightgrown bamboo with a diameter of at least 6 cm.

Each beam consists of three layers of bamboo canes, which always change direction for the stability of the beam. That is, a thick end follows a thin and again a thick.

For the eaves and ridge beams, the interruptions marked in the plan in the middle level had to be taken into account, as they were also attached to eachother.

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The superimposed beams were screwed at the ends or about every 3 m with 8 mm metal screws near a node. In between, every meter to 1.5 m followed bamboo nails at an angle, as they stiffen the beam in itself.

For both connection types, the drill holes were made near the node, as this makes splitting of the segment less likely.

Bamboo roofing

3.2 Metal Screw Joint

Preparation of metal screws

Idealy there is metal screws in the right size and length available. In this case a threaded rod with 8 mm was cut into a length of approx. 24 cm.

The cut has to be crinded for safety reason. Small and sharp metal filings can easily cut the skin.

In addition nuts and washers are needed.

Preparing for drilling

Before drilling the bamboo poles need to be in the final position. One way is to use a clamp or fixing the beams by standing as many people as possible, so none of the bamboo can actually move while drilling.

Drilling

A drill bit with 8 mm was used.

As mentioned at 3.1 the drilling needs to be as close as possible at the node of each bamboo.

After drilling

After drilling the screws were placed but not tightened super strong.

It is important that they are tighten more than once with some time inbetween as bamboo is a very flexible material and the connection will become a bit loose after some time.

In some case the bamboo poles aren‘t touching each other and the gap inbetween is quite big. For those sitations bamboo placeholder were put inbetween.

Bamboo connection with screws (Credits: Sigurd)

Tying the bamboo before drilling (Credits: Prarthana)

Screw set (Credits: Prarthana)

Screw grinding (Credits: Sigurd)

Cutting the threaded rod (Credits: Sigurd)

Bamboo roofing

3.3 Bamboo nail production

The recycling of remaining pieces of bamboo into bamboo nails shows the versatility of the material.

Cutting pins

For this purpose, one segment plus one node from the bamboo. The node is more resilient than the segments and prevents the nail from splintering when hammered.

Subsequently, the bamboo cane was cut into pins with a machete in the direction of the fibers.

Shaping nails

The bamboo pins were carved into a square cross-section and then made round.

If you hit the machete with a rubber mallet, it is easier to remove the bamboo strips at the knot.

To do this, simply place the machete on the spot and carefully hammer it down.

Subsequently, the fibers can be easily peeled with the machete for rounding the nail.

If the bamboo nails are shaped conically, it is easier to hammer them into the bamboo. That was done either with the machete or with a hammer and a metal disc with a small hole.

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Shaping (Credits: Sigurd)

Cutting pins (Credits: Prarthana)

Round the bamboo nail (Credits: Sigurd)

sharpening the end of the nail (Credits: Prarthana)

Fresh good smelling bamboo nails (Credits: Sigurd)

Bamboo roof

Bamboo roofing

3.4 Bamboo Nails Joint

Tying the beam

Before drilling the bamboo poles are tight together with a rope. It puts a lot of tension on the beam, but it also makes the beam more stable.

when the beam was little twisted, two boards and a clamp were used instead of the rope.

It is important that the rope stays until the last step (hammering the bamboo nail).

Drilling

The drill needs to have the same size of the nails. In this case the same drill bit (8mm) was used as for the metal screw joint. The drilling has to be done in an angle and also, it needs to have at least two joints in a different angle to maximise the stability fo the beam.

Hammering the nail

After drilling the wholes the bamboo nail will be placed. A rubber hammer prevents splitting the bamboo nail while hammering.

Hammering (Credits: Sigurd)

Angle drilling (Credits: Sigurd)

Bamboo nail joinery (Credits: Sigurd)

Loosening the rope (Credits: Sigurd)

Bamboo roofing

Beam AC/BC connection (Credits: Sigurd)

Testing a fishmouth connection(Credits: Sigurd)

Beam AB connection (Credits: Sigurd)

Interlocking beam connection (Credits: Sigurd)

Bamboo placeholder (Credits: Sigurd)

Connection point with column (Credits: Sigurd)

Bamboo roofing

• • • • •

3.5 Roof Triangle

As already described, the beams are made of straightgrown bamboo with a diameter of at least 6 cm

Each beam consists of three layers of bamboo canes, which always change direction for the stability of the beam. That is, a thick end follows a thin and again a thick.

For the eaves and ridge beams, the interruptions marked in the plan in the middle level had to be taken into account, as they were also attached to eachother.

The superimposed beams were screwed at the ends or about every 3m with 8mm metal screws near a node. In between, every meter to 1.5m followed bamboo nails at an angle, as they stiffen the beam in itself.

For both connection types, the drill holes were made near the node, as this makes splitting of the segment less likely.

Placing rafters inbetween the triangle (Credits: Sigurd)

Beauty cut of the triangle shape (Credits: Sigurd)

Waiting for the next step (Credits: Sigurd)

Measuring the angle (Credits: Prarthana)

layout of the beam (Credits: Sigurd)

Connection of the main beams (Credits: Prarthana)

Bamboo roofing

3.6 Substructure

When all the beams (including the interlocking ones) are connected to eachother, the substructure for the metal sheets is layed out in a distance of 80 cm.

The orientation of the substructure (parallel to the ridge) is essential, as the metal sheets are only giving the stability in the direction of the roof pitch.

The substructure is connected by a rope and a bamboo stick, which was a common way for any tempary connection on the construction side. It has the advantage that it can be tighten up any time or easily replaced.

In the next step all longer screws and the bamboo substructure were cutted to its minimum to reduce weight and also to make it handier.

After the first triangle was moved and lifted to the site, each column was connected with three screws (including placeholder) to the roof.

The placeholder were needed since we had to make sure that every column fits into the place. So the opening was planned a bit bigger.

„Scaffolding bamboo“ were temporarly placed to the sides of the ridge column, where the triangle roofs could be placed and screwed into the columns.

Placed substructure (Credits: Sigurd)

Testing the rope joinery (Credits: Sigurd)

Fixing (Credits: Sigurd)

Lifting (Credits: Sigurd)

Moving (Credits: Sigurd)

Final rope joinery (Credits: Sigurd)

Bamboo roofing

3.7 Rope Joinery

To connect the substructure to the beams a simple rope joinery was used.

For one joinery a bamboo stick and a rope was needed.

The rope was cutted to its lengt (100 - 120 cm). By sealing the end with a fire it doens‘t open by itself.

The production of the bamboo sticks is similiar to the production of the nails. The sticks are just shorter (12 cm) and thicker.

The rope was tied around the rafters and the beam. Then a bamboo stick was fixed with a single knot before and after. By twisting the bamboo stick the joinery got stable. In the end it was trapped in one of the rope parts.

Some of the rafters were not long enough, so we placed one next to it and it was connected with a bamboo nail.

Bamboo sticks (Credits: Sigurd)

Cutting rope (Credits: Sigurd)

Rope joinery (Credits: Sigurd)

Connecting rafters (Credits: Sigurd)

Sealing the rope (Credits: Sigurd)

(Credits: Sigurd)

Bamboo roofing

3.8 Metal Sheets

The roof was covered with metal sheets, which were screwed to the bamboo rafter every 50 cm

The sheet dimensions were 2 m x 1 m

Every sheet had to have an overlap to the ones next to it. We started fixing the sheet at the longest roof side and worked our way to the sides.

For the ridge a special sheet was used.

An eaves bamboo was placed to ensure a straight overhang of the roof. Otherwise the sheets would have been hanging down in the end. The bamboo was fixed with bamboo nails to the beams but also with screws to the sheets.

In the end the sheets were cut in the shape of the triangular roof with an overhang of about 15 cm.

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Screws with sealing for the roof (Credits: Rikunj)

Waiting for assembly (Credits: Sigurd)

Ridge sheets (Credits: Sigurd)

Starting in the center (Credits: Sigurd)

„Eaves bamboo“ (Credits: Sigurd)

Placing the „eaves bamboo“ (Credits: Sigurd) Screwing the sheets (Credits: Rikunj) Bamboo roofing

rainproof (Credits: Sigurd)

Bamboo roofing

1. Preparation

Floor plan and masonry bond

1.1 Masonry bond

Brick sizes and wall thickness

An important aspect of bricklaying is careful preparation of floor plans and openings according to bricklaying rules.

The adobe stones have a size of 13.8 cm x 28.5 cm and a height of 10 cm. The floor plans, window openings and door openings should correspond to a multiple of the length of a brick + 1cm joint.

Window and door openings have the dimensions of the brick (brick + joint) + one joint

Wall thickness: 29cm

External dimensions wall: X Brick (28,5cm+1cm) - 1cm

Internal dimensions wall: X Brick (28,5cm+1cm) + 1cm

Opening dimensions wall: X Brick (28,5cm+1cm) + 1cm

Adobe Brick Size: 13,8 x 28,5 x 10 (WxLxH)

Burned Bricks: 9,5 x 19 x 6,5 (WxLXH)

Rules

Never joints on top of each other, the next row of stones should be offset at least a quarter of a stone

Floor plan, including all openings and projections, always as a multiple of the stone dimensions, including joints

The height of the room should also correspond to a multiple of the stone height + joint plus 2cm for the first layer of mortar

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Caption (Credits: Samyuktha)

Caption (Credits: Samyuktha)

Caption (Credits: Samyuktha)

1.2 Transfer floor plan

Preparation

The first step after determining the final masonry bond is to transfer the planned floor plan to the floor slab, including all possible openings and corners. To do this, we use:

-mason pencil

-chalk line

-measuring tapes

-rulers

-nails and masonry cord

Transfer floor plan

To transfer the floor plan, first all corner points are determined and the distance to the edge of the floor slab is checked.

The later outer edges of the walls minus the plaster are transferred to the floor slab. For this we use the chalk line. One person at a time fixes the cord to a corner of the wall. The cord should be under tension. Then the cord is lifted slightly and released again. This will bounce it back to the ground and the chalk on the string will transfer the previously measured edge to the concrete slab.

The corner points are fixed with a nail and a bricklayer‘s cord is stretched from them. This cord is used for later orientation when building the walls in order to stay in the specified line. It is important that the cord should be offset around one centimeter to the outside so that the cord does not involuntarily touch the outer edge of the stones and thus falsify the measurements.

Masonry

Fixing the corners with nails & mansory cord(Credit: Luca)

Checking layers before adding morter (Credits: Luca)

Masonry cord and spirit level (Credits: Indira)

Masonry bond of burned bricks (Credits: Indira)

Corners and projections(Credits: Samyuktha)

Layers of burned bricks and adobe (Credits: Luca)

Burnt bricks (Credits: Luca)

Masonry

Mortar Mix: 2 Sand / 1 Lime / 1/2 Water (Ratio 2:1:1/2)

2. Masonrywork

Floor plan and mansory bond

2.1 Plinth Level

Preparation

Before laying the first layer of fired bricks, they should be placed in a large tub filled with water. If the bricks are laid dry, there is a risk that the water from the mortar will be drawn through the bricks like a sponge, causing the mortar to dry too quickly. This makes the connection between mortar and stones more unstable and brittle.

First layers

In order to avoid damage to the walls from rising water, the lower part of the walls must be constructed with burnt stones and bricked with mortar.

The first layer of masonry bond is a thicker layer of mortar. This layer should be between 2-3 cm and evenly distributed. The mortar mix is 2 bucket of sand, 1 bucket of lime and a ½ bucket (Ratio 2:1:1/2). First dry mix and then mixed with water to make it as much evenly as possible. The mortar should only be applied in sections, otherwise it will dry out before the stones can be set.

Setting the first brick stones and checking the height and the level with the spirit level. This step is very important, the level and the height should be checked regulary to avoid different heights and crooked walls later on. Four layer of burned bricks are necessary with a total height of 30cm includin the mortar.

A layer of bitumen was laid on the top layer of the fired bricks as a water-blocking layer.

Notes:

Communication is a crucial factor while laying the first layers. Especially in a bigger group and working on different edges at the same time are challenging The height in particular should be checked regularly. A metal bill and a spirit level are also suitable as additional tools.

Masonry

Laying first level (Credits: Samyuktha)

Mixing Mortar (Credits: Luca)

Water bath for the stones (Credits: Samyuktha)

Mansory bond in the corner (Credits: Luca)

Plinth level with opening and pipes(Credits: Indira)

Checking brick sizes (Credits: Samyuktha)

Masonry

Set up first layers (Credits: Samyuktha)

Setting the burned bricks (Credits: Samyuktha)

Cutting bricks (Credits: Luca)

Adobe mortar mix:

4 Clay / 4 Sand / 2 rice husk

6-8 Water (Ratio 2:2:1:2,5-3)

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2.2 Adobe Level

Moisture mix

The mix for the mortar is 4 clay : 4sand : 2 rice husk. As usual mixing it first dry and adding water later on. The amount of water depends on the consistency. The mortar should be sticky but not lumpy and not too runny. Adding 6-8 water and testing the consistency while adding the water.

First layers of adobe

If the heights of the walls are even and the sheet of bitumen has been laid, work can be continued with the adobe bricks. With a wall thickness of 29 cm and a stone width of 13.8, the further rows are laid in the „gothic wall bond“. This means that two stones are next to each other in the direction of the wall course, followed by a whole stone across the course of the masonry.

• •

Watering the stones just shortly, 1-2 seconds with a bath in the water tube.

The mortar should first be applied in a layer thickness of 1 cm it should only be laid in sections and evenly distributed with a masonry trowel to prevent it from drying out. The stones are placed on the mortar layer and checked horizontally and vertically with a spirit level.

The second row in the bond should then be offset by a quarter stone. The morter inbetween the bricks should add before setting and after add mortar to the joint from above.

Align the bricks (Credits: Samyuktha)

Joint of inner and outer walls (Credits: Samyuktha)

Adobe bricks at the door opening (Credits: Luca)

First layer of adobe bricks (Credits: Samyuktha)

Masonry

Setting the bricks on the mortar (Credits: Samyuktha)

Caption (Credits: Samyuktha)

Masonry bond (Credits: Samyuktha)

Checking the level (Credits: Samyuktha)

Masonry

Masonry

Niches in the adobe walls (Credits: Samyuktha)

•

•

2.3 Pipes

With drainage pipes and water pipes, these should ideally be included in the planning right from the start, as should other openings. The pipes should be recessed in the walls and the bricks cut accordingly.

2.4 Niches

As in the window openings, niches should correspond to a multiple of the brick size (brick + joint) + one joint

2.5 Openings and Lintels

Later door- windowframes should be planned to be about 1cm smaller on each side for the pre-production in order to simplify insertion into the wall without possible difficulties.

Size Concrete Lintels

Bathroom: 13cmx9cmx118cm

Windows: 29cmx8x90cm

Door: 28cmx9x136cm

Terrasse door: 29cmx9cmx266cm

The overlap of the lintels should be around 45cm to each side of the openings

The mix for the concrete of the lintels consists of 9 stones/ 5 sand / 2 cement / 2 water, for the reinforcement are two iron bars necessary.

Water pipe (Credit: Luca)

Opening of drainage pipe (Credits: Luca)

Pipe openings (Credits: Luca)

Lintel formwork (Credit: Luca)

Lintel of window in the bedroom (Credits: Samyuktha)

Checking the size of the stock (Credits: Samyuktha)

Checking the level (Credits: Luca)

Placing the Lintel (Credits: Samyuktha)

Caption (Credits: Samyuktha)

Masonry

1. Water supply and waste water management

1.1 Water supply strategy

Water in the guest house is supplied by the same system next to the workshop that supplies the rest of the campus, which filters water to make sure it is safe to use. Because the guest house is quite a distance from the main water supply tanks, a decision was made to install two small storage tanks in the void between the roof and the ceiling above the bathroom. This would ensure that the water pressure is sufficient. One storage tank is for cold water storage and the other is for hot water storage.

To cater to the landscape, a pumping system separate from the centralised water supply was installed at the pond close to the guest house. Because this water shall be pumped directly from the pond it shall only be used for irrigation.

1.2 Waste water strategy

To manage wastewater from the guest house, a septic tank was installed. The design size of the tank was to serve two guest houses, the one we were building and the one that will be built next to it. Because it was so close to a water source, a factory-made plastic tank was installed in the ground. The overflow tank next to the septic tank was built with interlocking, concrete precast circular drums installed vertically to avoid wastewater sipping outward into the pond. In this system, it is important to have a vent pipe to relieve the tank from the buildup of pressure.

1.3 Installation of water pipes

The design intention was to have the water supply and drainage pipes embedded within the foundation slab. The pipes had to be carefully set out, centre to centre ensuring that the fixtures purchased by the client would be able to sit correctly in place. Care was taken to ensure that the trenches in which the drainage pipes were placed allowed for a fall sufficient for water to flow in the correct direction and that no blockages would occur when the building was in use. The sufficient gradient is 1:100. Vertically, pipes were extended to a minimum of approximately 300mm above the design floor level so they protrude well above the slab to avoid

Installation of vertical pipes (Credits: Donald)

Laying water pipes to be embedded in concrete slab (Credits: Prarthana)

The water pump installed next to the guest house (Credits: Donald)

The void between the roof and the ceiling (Credits: Donald)

Main water supply tanks next to workshop(Credits: Donald)

Installed septic tank and over flow (Credits: Donald)

light fixtures

sockets and switches

fuse box

2. Electricity and lighting

1.1 Electricity supply

To supply electricity to the guest house, overhead power cables were extended from the family house.

1.2 Lighting and power layout

For internal lighting in the bedroom, the idea was to avoid light flooding the room. Therefore a functional approach was used, two down-directional light fittings were installed along the circulation from the front door to the balcony door. A bedside light installation is also installed inside a wall niche on each side of the bed.

For the bathroom, two light fittings are similar to the ones used in the bedroom circulation used. One is placed close to the mirror and the other close to the shower.

All external lights are wall-hung with the exception of a single pendant light fixture hung on the bamboo roof structure at the balcony.

Warm lights of about 2000k were selected for the bedroom and external lighting. Cooler lighting of about 3000k was used for the bathroom

The ductwork for the electrical installation was chiselled into the adobe wall and plastered over.

Bedroom lighting (Credits: Ibn)

Bathroom lighting (Credits: Ibn)

External light fixtures (Credits: Ibn)

Balcony pendant light fixture hung from roof structure (Credits: Ibn)

Installed fuse box unit (Credits: Ibn)

Bedroom light fixture at bedside niche (Credits: Ibn)

1. Planning openings

1.1 Design and outcome

Design and building process

Although the concept of having a large opening towards the central pond was previously agreed upon, the final decision for the size and location for the doors and shutters was decided during the wall construction.

Basehabitat postgrad team finished with attaching the frames and the shutters were attached shortly after.

Considerations

The main planning considerations were to provide light and views from the direction north-west, to create an opportunity to extend the interior living space towards the deck, to create an opportunity to extend the interior living space towards the deck, to enable optional cross ventilation and to limit the number openings towards west and south due to the intense sun.

A summary of the openings

Signature Facade Description Size Function

DB SouthEast Main entrance door

960x2080 Access to the guest house

DT - Interior door 890x2080 Access to toilet

DS NorthWest Sliding door 1790x2090 Access to terrace, view to the mountains, light

SB SouthEast Bedroom shutter 580x1150 View to the path, light

NB - Bedroom niches 420x260 Space for lamps

ST1 SouthEast Toilet shutter

View towards the path, light

View towards mountains, light

NT1

Designing in Linz (Credits: Kaarel Kuusk)

Front facade with the main entrance (Credits:Ibn Talib)

Facade towards the afternoon sun (Credits: Ibn Talib)

Extended livingspace (Credits: Ibn Talib)

...during construction (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

The shutters, frames, sills and ceiling beams are all made from Burmese Ironwood creating a warm athmosphere and a material accent throughout the space.

2. Constructing openings

2.1 Details and processes

Adobe masonry

The masonry was done considering that the initial cavities for the openings were to leave around 10-20 mm adjustment/fitting space for the frames of the openings. An exception was the two-sided sliding door DS which was attached on the wall. In some cases cavities had to be enlarged to fit the frames. Thanks to physical characteristics of adobe, enlargement was easily possible.

Lintels

Lintels were produced in parallel with the masonry work. Reinforced concrete was used to fill the simple formwork made from locally available and reused 12mm water resistant plywood. 10 mm steel was used for the reinforcement and 15-20mm size gravel was used in the concrete mix. The length of the lintel depended on the size of the opening. The lintels were projected into the wall, being embedded by the length of 150mm in the case for smaller opening like ST1 to 400mm in the case of the large opening like DS. To prevent accidental obstructions by a lintel during plastering of the walls the width of the lintels were reduced 20mm in comparison with the wall width.

Frames

The frames of the openings were built from Burmese Ironwood by local carpenters. In Thailand Burmese Ironwood is a wood species often used for furniture and floor construction thanks to its hardness and durability. The frames were fitted into the wall cavities by using small wedges of wood and long nails. The slit between the adobe wall and an opening was later filled with lime and clay plaster.

Sills

For openings ST, ST1 and ST2 sills were prepared using 16mm boards from Burmese Ironwood. The sills were attached to the opening with plaster to prevent visual connections. As a negative side this attaching method resulted with sills to be hogged

“Lifting the lintel of the sliding door was definitely the most physically demanding moment throughout the whole building process.“

Kaarel Kuusk

Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev

Niche creation (Credits:Rikunj Shah)

Lifting the lintels (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

Casting lintels (Credits:Sigurd Colsman)

Fixing wedges (Credits: Samyukhta Rajeev)

Attached frame (Credits:Sigurd Colsman)

Filling the gaps with plaster (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

The Sliding door (Credits:Ibn Talib)

A simple shutter opening system (Credits:Ibn Talib)

Bedroom Niche (Credits:Ibn Talib)

Main Entrance (Credits:Ibn Talib)

Bedroom shutter(Credits:Ibn Talib)

Fresh (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

1. Introduction

Even though the architectural language of the structure is characterized by the bamboo columns and the floating metal roof that hovers above the cottage, the most interesting architectural feature of the building remains hidden in plain sight – The brick ceiling.

The only glimpse of it visible in the exterior façade is the exposed brick lining the lime plastered walls jutting out ever so slightly from the wall surface.

Main entrance of the guesthouse. (Credits: Ibn Talib)

2. Functional attributes of the ceiling

The brick ceiling works in combination with the sloping metal roof functions as a double roof for the structure. While the metal roof protects the structure from the torrential rains, the brick ceiling passively keeps the interior cool by serving as a heat barrier creating a cool indoor atmosphere for inhabiting. The gap in between the metal roof and the brick ceiling further accelerates the air movement through the structure. The space in between the metal roof and the ceiling is intended to be used for maintenance related works such as tightening the bamboo knots amongst others.

Title

As seen in the front façade, the ceiling is built in two levels at slightly varying heights – one above the sleeping space and the other above the washroom. The ceiling height for the washroom drops around 30 cm from the ceiling height above the sleeping space. This is purposefully done so as to create space for accommodating the water tank in the gap in-between the metal roof and the ceiling.

The front facades showing the drop in the ceiling height of the washroom from the bedroom space. (Credits: Ibn Talib)

3. Design Process for the ceiling

3.1 Initial Ideas

Before arriving on the site, the initial plan for the ceiling was to create a bamboo ceiling covered with earth inspired by the traditional ceilings as seen in the nearby villages of the mountains around Mae Sai.

Lime screed Earth Bamboofillingsplits

Bamboo poles 10mm Ø

Bamboo Ring beam 10mm Ø

Timber threshold

Steel plate with 10mm Ø screw

This option was eventually overlooked primarily because of the unavailability of treated bamboos that would be required for such a construction. Buying treated bamboo directly from the market would be four times as expensive and treating them in-situ would mean waiting for a week until they are good to be used. Even if the bamboos were somehow available, the timeframe of just one week to finish of the ceiling works would have been too tight considering the detailing of bamboo joints and the bamboo working skills of the team. Such a bamboo structure would also have to be filled with clay and then finished with layer of lime creating a very heavy roof structure.

Clay tile / Stone flooring (to be decided)

On the other hand, a brick ceiling provided a light weight option that required little skills to be built and can be executed in a short span of time. The handmade burnt bricks were also available locally and could be delivered within a few hours to the site. Considering all these factors, the final decision of opting for a brick ceiling was made by the team together with the client.

Water proof layer (Bitumen sheet)

Concrete base

3.2 Mock-ups and Testing

Brick ceiling with metal substructure

The construction detail that was conceptualized for building the brick ceiling was using an inverted ‘t’ profile metal substructure which can support two brick edges on either side. This was tested out as the first prototype. Even though structurally it worked quite, it created an industrial look. And since the team was quite keen on using natural materials instead of metal, this option was eventually left out.

Brick ceiling with bamboo substructure

A small group then worked how the same ceiling system would work out using bamboo. Various ways of spanning the bricks using different proportions of the arch were tested using half split bamboo. The main issues in bamboo substructural system were the joints. The complications of how such a half split bamboo would be attached to the wall and how the bricks would rest inside the bamboo. Hence this system was also eventually left out.

Load testing for the c shaped metal profile for the substructure (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Exploring brick arch roofing with the bamboo substructure (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Brick ceiling with metal sustructure (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Making the bamboo substructure mock-up. (Credits: Pooja Parameswararao)

Brick ceiling with wooden substructure

Another prototype which was tested was with a wooden substructure and it worked quite well in the same ‘t’ profile as the metal substructure. However due to the proportions of the wooden profiles available, it turned out that ceiling area was more covered with wood then with the bricks. This in a way affected the purity of the concept where self-supported inclined bricks supported each other. Hence, another simpler option with one flat brick spanned between wooden substructure was also tested instead of the two inclined bricks between the substructure which worked quite well.

3.3 Finalizing the ceiling design

This led to one of the most interesting moments during the whole construction process. There was a lot of confusion as to which option to move forward with. The whole team was in splits whether to go ahead with the metal substructure with two inclined self-supported bricks or with the other option with a wooden substructure with single flat brick in between. And in a very tense discussion together with the project managers, workers, the student team, it was the client who eventually arbitrated the design option to opt for after consulting with the contractor and the material suppliers.

As the wooden beams could be brought cut to size the very next day compared to the metal ‘t’ profiles which would have to be welded on site, the flat bricks ceiling with wooden substructure was eventually decided as the final option to be executed on site.

Discussing the inclined self-supported brick assembly. (Credits:Rikunj Shah)

Wooden T profile (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

4. Technical attributes of the ceiling

4.1 Schematic construction drawings

The final construction detail for executing the brick ceiling is illustrated below.

4.2 Technical Specifications

1. 3-5cm thick concrete ring beam which would evenly distribute the load of the ceiling onto the adobe walls and provide a plumb horizontal surface to lay the beams on top.

2. Wooden beams placed at 27 cm c/c distance create the substructure on which bricks can be laid.

3. 130mm x 260mm x 45mm handmade bricks rested on top of the wooden beams finish the ceiling creating a warm and rustic indoor atmosphere.

4. 10 mm thick lime sand plaster to seal of the bricks from top.

0129 | 0129

5. The building process

For building the ceiling, the group was divided into two teams. One small team worked on the washroom ceiling while rest of the group started with the ceiling above the bedroom. Except for some specific details both of these followed a fairly similar building process. The ceiling works began once the adobe walls were built to the desired height.

The major steps in building the ceiling are:

1. Pouring the concrete roof band

2. Building the wooden substructure

3. Laying of bricks and

4. Filling of gaps and edge detail

Wooden beams of the ceiling before laying the bricks (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

5.1 Pouring the concrete roof band

A very thin concrete band was laid out for the ceiling as it had to support only the lightweight assembly of the wooden substructure and the handmake bricks on top. A single ‘c’ shaped metal rebar was used as the reinforcement on each of the four sides with a mutual overlap. A single adobe brick was used as formwork guide on the outer edge of the structure. With no formwork on the other edge, a concrete mix of mortar like consistency was laid using trowels.

Tying the metal reinforcement. (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Pouring the concrete mix of a cement mortar like consistency. (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Placing the c shaped metal rebar. (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

5.2 Building the wooden substructure

The wooden beams that were used for the substructure were ordered from the nearby wood factory already planed and cut to the size of 28.5 cms. This helped save some time as the beams could directly be assembled on the ceiling. However, for the washroom ceiling, the beams were cut on-site. The wooden beams were screwed diagonally using a drill onto the adobe wall. In order to ensure a consistent distance between the beams so as to have just the right amount of overlap between the bricks, a small wood space with the same size was added in between the beams. The gap in between the wooden pieces were filled in with half cut adobe bricks and mortar. This created the flat surface throughout the wall periphery and the handmade bricks were ready to be laid.

Marking the wooden beam using a powdered thread. (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Filling the gaps with adobe brick cut pieces and mortar. (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Fixing the wooden substructure over the bedroom area. (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

5.3 Laying of bricks

The laying of bricks is a fairly straightforward process. Each brick is simply rested by weight on top of the wooden substructure one by one. Before laying, the brick is washed and the exposed bottom surface is cleaned for excess dust to reveal the texture of the brick on the inside. The bricks are laid precisely to have a decent overlap with the wooden beams underneath on both sides. Since the bricks are simply rested, they are prone to movement and hence the next brick should be flush with previous one so as to have minimum air gaps in between the bricks. The handmade burnt bricks are also not good in taking compression forces, so extra care is needed to ensure that one brick alone is not subjected to too much load which working on top of the ceiling.

Placing the brick over the wooden beams. (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Carefully aligning the bricks to ensure the required amount of overlap with the wooden beams. (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Adding a nail to beam closing the excees gap between bricks. (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Placing the bricks one by one over the wooden substructure. (Credits: Indira Orderique)

5.4 Filling of gaps and edge detail

After all the bricks are laid, the gaps in-between the bricks are filled with earth mortar, the same which was used for the adobe wall construction. The process was quite painstaking as there is not an adequate working space on top on the ceiling and the gaps to be filled are there in between all the bricks laid. After filling the gaps with earth mortar, all the bricks are locked in place and the whole assembly from individual bricks starts to function like a brick slab. The entire assembly then is sealed off for water exposure by applying a thin layer of lime plaster on top of it. The edge bricks on the periphery of all the walls are cantilevered 2-3cms from the finished plaster surface to subtly reveal the ceiling in the façade of the structure while also adding a layer of depth to it.

Filling of gaps in between the bricks using adobe mortar. (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Edge detail using the same handmade burnt brick. (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

Mounting the light fixture on the brick ceiling. (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

The finished ceiling over the sleeping space. (Credits: Rikunj Shah)

The finished ceiling over the washroom with one row left for a glass block lining. (Credits:Rikunj Shah)

1. Plaster samples

1.1 Introduction

The main ingredient for the internal plaster mix the group has decided for was earth. There are two different colours of local earth, which were available near our site in Mae Sai: earth delivered from the nearby mountain excavation, which was used for the adobe blocks, with deep brown-red colour, and the clay excavated from our site, which was very rich in clay and mostly coloured in different shades of gray.

A small group was elected to be responsible for testing plaster samples, to explore different options. This group included: Ania Chorzepa, Prarthana Murali, Indira Orderique, and Samuktha Rajeev. The group began with investigating the results of plastering, which was done on the family house. This project is part of the same site and was built by the BASEhabitat masters students earlier that year, which was long enough to see some weathering on the finishes. The exterior plaster (ratio: 2 x lime, 4 x sand, 1 x fibre) was applied in single layer with a more textured finish of 4mm granules to protect the walls from deteriorating during the rain season. We could see that it performed very well over time. The interior plaster (1st layer ratio: 2 x earth, 4 x sand, 1 x fibre; 2nd layerratio : 2 x earth, 8 x fine sand, 1 x fine fibre) was a finer mix with 1-1.5mm granules. Sadly in most walls the interior plaster was infested with insects, which caused some cracking to its surface.

Reflecting on these plaster mixes we began the process from the same proportions: 2 x lime, 4 x sand, 1 x fibre. We wanted to show the colour of the local earth in the exterior as well as interior plasters and decided to test it and try to integrate it into the final mixes. Knowing the issue with insect infestation in the previous project and the good performance of the lime plaster used for the exterior, we continued with experiments, adding earth from the mountains and site excavation, as well as different fibres, marble powder, natural pigments and cow dung.

Plaster mix ingredients (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Plaster mix ingredients (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Plaster mix (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Baan Doi Guest House

1.2 Exterior plaster samples and reflections

We began testing the plaster for exterior walls from the same proportions as the family house exterior plaster mix, changing the fibre from straw to rice husk, which we had in abundance, following a rice harvest.

Sample 1

4 x sand, 2 x lime, 1 x rice husk (no 1 as pictured below)

We then continued with adding some pigments to change the bright white colour, adding local available ingredients:

Sample 2 with brick dust

4 x sand, 2 x lime, 1 x rice husk , brick dust (no 2 as pictured below)

Sample 3 with charcoal dust

4 x sand, 2 x lime, 1 x rice husk , charcoal dust (no 3 as pictured below)

Sample 4 with coffee waste

4 x sand, 2 x lime, 1 x rice husk , coffee waste (no 4 as pictured below)

Observations: The above plaster mix options were very liquid and not that easy in application. The group prefference was to continue with exploring the colour options. Sample 4 with coffee waste was a favoured option, but the following day, after drying, lime took out most of the colour and all plasters became much lighter.

Family house plaster tests (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Applying plaster mix samples (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Exterior plaster mix samples (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Baan

Discussing exterior plaster mix samples (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Baan Doi Guest House

We made some experiments with cow dung to get a light green colour and then added turmeric powder and crushed brick to see if these pigments would work well. Over tme all of these colours became very faint and after calculating the ammount of plastr mix we would need for all the walls we decided against using these ingredients.

Following our initial testing, we then began to integrate local earth into the exterior plaster mix to test if it is possible to have more colour on the facade of the guest house without compromising the strenth of the finish, considering that during the rainy season a lot of water will be washing off on the walls. Following the first samples the group favoured ratio was: 2 x lime, 3 x sand, 1 x fibre, 1 x mountain earth.

Collectively we decided to darken this colour, since over time the lime in the mix would bleach it, and we then added some of the lighter grey earth, extracted from site, to the mix. These ingredients worked very well together and the plaster mix was easy to apply, however the initial ratio had too much clay and earth in it and we could see some small cracks which raised concern that the overall plastering wouldn‘t work so well externally.

We then continued to adjust the recepie, increasing the ammount of sand and lime to crete a stronger mix.

Final exterior plaster mix ratio: 20 x sand, 8 x lime, 3 x mountain earth, 1 x site earth

Applying exterior plaster tests (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Exterior plaster mix samples (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Exterior plaster mix samples (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Baan Doi Guest

Final exterior plaster mix (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Plaster mix with turmeric powder (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Plaster mix with cow dung (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Plaster mix with brick powder and cow dung (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Baan Doi Guest House

Plaster mix with turmeric powder (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

1.3 Interior plaster samples and reflections

At the same time Kaarel Kusk and Rikunj Shah began with testing of the local earth plasters for the interior walls. We decided to add a little bit of lime to this mix to prevent from any insects inhabiting these walls over time. We then continued with the experiments exploring the properties of the local mountain and site excavated earth.

During these experiments we discovered that the dark grey site earth, which is rich in clay, is a very good primer layer. For the final layer, the best properties and colour was achieved by mixing the mountain earth with site earth.

Final ratio for the interior walls:

8 x fine sand, 1 x lime, 2 x bright site earth, 1 x mountain earth (no XIII as pictured on the following page)

Interior plaster test (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Discussing plaster tests (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Interior plaster mix samples (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Interior plaster mix samples (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Interior plaster mix samples (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Baan Doi Guest House

2. Plastering walls

2.1 Plastering interior walls

We began the preparations for the plaster with scratching out the surface of the walls for the cable and pipe routes. This allowed us to embed services inside the walls and for the clean final finish. We then continued with making the walls wet to receive the first primer layer. For the lintels we splashed some leftover stabilised mix (2 x sand and 1 x cement) to create a rough surface to receive the plaster.

We began with plastering of the cable and pipe holes and then continued to plaster the walls in segments. In the bathroom we used a mix without any earth in it, to seal the walls from any moisture penetration. We used water levels to check if the layer was applied in consisten depth of around 3cm. We finalised this layer and left it out to dry.

Due to the time constraints we had to leave the final plastering with the finish mix for the construction workers. They are very expeirenced in plastering with earth, after helping out with plaster works of the family house and the client was very happy with the look of the guest house final plaster finish.

Applying primer layer to lintel (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Applying plaster primer (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Checking level of primer layer (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Applying interior primer plaster layer (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Baan Doi Guest House

Applying interior primer plaster layer (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Applying interior primer plaster layer (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Baan Doi Guest House

Finishing window reveal with primer plaster layer (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Baan Doi Guest House

Finishing interior primer plaster layer (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Baan Doi Guest House

2.2 Plastering exterior walls

For the exterior plastering we had help from the workers, who gained experience in this craft during the works on the family house. We started by cleaning of the walls and applying water to create wet surface for receiving of the primer layer.

The first layer of the exterior plaster turned out really well apart from some cracking which occured mostly on the walls which were exposed to sun. This was despite propping of these walls with coverings, due to the very hot tempretatures on these days. We than sprayed water on the walls and repaired the cracks to then follow with an application of the second thinner layer. We decided to sieve the fine sand to create a finer finish, with less smudges, which appeared on the primer layer .

After one day of drying we then gently finished these walls with sponge sanding to create an eaven finish.

Mixing of the exterior plaster (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Applying water to walls (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Plastering exterior walls (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Plastering exterior walls (Credits: Ania Chorzepa) Exterior plaster mix (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Applying exterior primer plaster layer (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Baan Doi Guest House

Repairing cracks on the first layer (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Repairing cracks on the first layer (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Baan Doi Guest House

Sponge smooth finish to the final layer (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Final exterior plaster look (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Sponge smooth finish to the final layer (Credits: Florian Fend)

Baan Doi Guest House

Baan Doi Guest House

Sponge smooth finish to the final layer (Credits: Ania Chorzepa)

Final plaster impressions (Credits: Ibn Talib)

Final plaster impressions (Credits: Ibn Talib)

3.0 Final plaster impressions

Final plaster impressions (Credits: Ibn Talib)

Baan Doi Guest House

Final plaster impressions (Credits: Ibn Talib)

Baan Doi Guest

1. Lime Flooring

1.1 Floor samples and Testing

Flooring samples were done 20 days before the flooring had to be started. The intended flooring height was 6.5 to 7 cm and the same thickness is considered for the samples.

Samples for Bathroom Flooring

1) 1 lime : 3 sand

2) 1 lime : 2 sand : 1 gravel

3) 1 lime : 1 sand : 2 gravel

Samples for Bedroom Flooring

Sample A = 4 coarse gravel: 4 fine gravel: 4 coarse sand: 2 fine sand: 1 lime: 1 cement

Sample B = 4 coarse gravel: 2 sand: 1 lime: 1 cement

Sample C = 4 coarse gravel: 4 fine gravel: 4 coarse sand: 2 fine sand: 2 cement

The samples were sanded and polished using the grinder to understand the stability, strength and final finish.

Once the polishing started, the sample with no gravel broke. The sample with less ratio of fine gravel also broke into pieces.

The different samples were then discussed within the group and the most stable one was considered.

1.2 Deciding the mix and ratios

As all the samples of the Bathroom flooring had low stability and strength, we decided to replace lime with cement.

Final ratio of the Bathroom flooring:

4 coarse gravel: 4 fine gravel: 4 coarse sand: 2 fine sand: 2 cement

Final ratio of the Bedroom flooring:

4 coarse gravel: 3 coarse sand: 1 lime: 1 cement

Coarse and fine sand maintain the integrity and strength between the different components, while the coarse and fine gravel form a smooth and pleasant design on polishing.

Compacting and Compression (Credits: Samyuktha)

Levelling out (Credits: Samyuktha)

Smoothening (Credits: Samyuktha)

Final ratio for reference (Credits: Samyuktha)

Flooring

Preparing the flooring samples (Credits: Samyuktha)

Finishing the last sample (Credits: Samyuktha)

Polished and unpolished surface of the sample (Credits: Samyuktha)

Ratio and size of gravel evident in both samples (Credits: Samyuktha)

All the flooring samples after polishing and sanding (Credits: Samyuktha)

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1.3 Preparing the floor

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Before starting to pour the mixture for the floor, it must be cleaned and plaster residue must be scrapped off the floor. It is crucial to clear out all the stuff lying on the flooring surface.

•

The laser works in horizontal and vertical levels, here it beams a straight horizontal line at around 11 cm and another line was marked around 4.5 cm below it indicating the thickness of the floor.

• •

Since the laser cannot mark levels lower than its height, we had to define a level as a reference line from which we could arrive on the height of the flooring.

All the wall surfaces were marked at the level of the thickness to ensure that the mixture is poured equally throughout the entire floor area making it easier to polish and sand the final layer.

Flooring

Clearing the flooring surface (Credits: Rikunj)

Laser beam (Credits: Samyuktha)

Marking the reference line (Credits: Samyuktha)

Height of flooring marked at 7 cm (Credits: Samyuktha)

1.4 Process of pouring

Cement primer (1cement : 3sand) was sprinkled on the concrete plate, before pouring the lime mixture, for a rough surface for friction.

The gravel was soaked in water making it easier to mix with the other components. The consistency of the mixture should not be plastic but moist enough to release water during compaction (same as rammed earth consistency). The mixture was then poured onto the rough cement primer upto the marked line for thickness.

We started from one corner, as the area is small in this case, and kept compressing, firstly by foot as we went along.

Once the entire floor was filled with the mixture, a compactor was run along thereby compressing the layer by 1.5 cm. For further compaction, the layer was hammered using flat wooden planks and hammer.

Once the floor was compacted till the desired height, a fine thin layer (3 coarse sand: 1 cement) was poured for a smooth finish. It is thin such that you can see the stone after sanding and polishing.

The remaining gaps in the floor were filled with the fine layer and pressed down with the small trowel for a even smooth surface.

Applying cement primer (Credits: Samyuktha)

Soaking gravel in water (Credits: Samyuktha)

Compaction by foot (Credits: Samyuktha)

Compaction by compactor (Credits: Samyuktha)

Compaction by hammering (Credits: Samyuktha)

Flooring

Compacting the final layer for smooth surface (Credits: Samyuktha)

Smoothening the surface with the trowel (Credits: Samyuktha)

Final height of the flooring (Credits: Luca)

1.5 Sanding & Polishing

The final floor layer can be polished within few hours. Sanding and polishing is done to ensure the entire surface is smooth and in level while the gravel can be seen underneath.

A small grinder was used to sand the entire surface. This produces a lot of dust and hence, the surface was made wet to prevent excessive dust.

However, one cannot completely prevent the dust accumulated during this process.

Due to all the dust emitted, this process takes a longer time ensuring visibility while using the grinder.

The slope in the bathroom must be maintained during sanding such that the water does not flow in the opposite direction.

Once the entire floor is sanded, you can see the composition of the fine and coarse gravel underneath. Sanding too deep can cut the gravel and could be dangerous.

The fine layer poured on top helped in achieving this smooth surface without difficulty.

Surface made wet before sanding (Credits: Samyuktha)

Dust accumulating during sanding (Credits: Samyuktha)

Difference after sanding (Credits: Samyuktha)

Lime flooring finish (Credits: Samyuktha)

Bamboo deck flooring in progress (Credits: Rikunj)

2. Bamboo Flooring

2.1 Preparaing the Bamboo joists

The Bamboo deck flooring overlooks the water body and spans across 4 Bamboo beams. The bamboo joists are perpendicular to the beams with c/c distance of 13 cm.

Total length = 199cm

Number of joists = 15 bamboos

The bamboo selected had to be relatively straight without any crooks and bends with a minimum diameter of 6 to 8 cm. The thicker and thinner ends of the joists were placed alternatively to balance out the difference.

2.2 Joinery details

The joists were held in place using bamboo spacers. The joists were further tightened using the same joinery detail used for the bamboo beams of the roof. The ropes were prepared and along with short bamboo pieces were tied to the joists and the bamboo beams.

Once all of the joists were in place, the extra hanging ropes were cut to have a even look.

2.3 Finishing the layers

Bamboo mats of thickness 1.5 cm were laid perpendicular to the joists.

Bamboo splits of thickness 2 cm were later laid in the same orientation as the mats, that forms the final layer. Both the mats and splits are tied to the joists by rope in the traditional technique. Every individual split is tied tightly by the rope to the mats and joists.

The flooring is cut at the corners to accommodate the Bamboo columns.

Arranging the Bamboo joists (Credits: Samyuktha)

Holding the joists in place using spacers (Credits: Luca)

Preparing the rope for joinery (Credits: Sigurd)

Joinery detail of the Bamboo joists (Credits: Samyuktha)

Split bamboo mats (Credits: Samyuktha)

Cross section through the Bamboo deck flooring (Drawing Credits: Samyuktha)

Arranging the bamboo mats (Credits: Samyuktha)

Trying out different orientation (Credits: Samyuktha)

Trimming the edge for the column (Credits: Samyuktha)

Lime flooring overlooking the bamboo deck flooring (Credits: Samyuktha)

Finished surface of the Deck (Credits: Ibn Talib)

Bamboo deck overlooking the water body (Credits: Samyuktha)

January 2023

The finished pieces of furniture resulted from a discussion between the designer and the client about the immediate need to furnish the guesthouse. The design had to be simple in order for it to be interpreted and understood by semi-professional furniture makers. The guesthouse required four pieces of furniture, three for the interior and one for the exterior.

The interior furniture was produced at a workshop in the Thai province of Phrae. It is a small business that employs locals and uses locally cut wood. All pieces were made from Teak (Tectona grandis), a tropical hardwood famous for small wood products such as furniture. Meanwhile, the contractor and his team were responsible for building the kitchenette with the surplus on-site building material.

The bathroom vanity served as a stand for the ceramic tub, concealed the pipes behind and underneath, and provided space for toiletries and toilet paper.

The best-built piece was covered with a protective coating. The contractor and his team installed the piece in place. The design called for a stone base at least 5 cm thick to protect the wood from water exposure. One of the workers found a 2-cm-thick piece of marble and used it as a pedestal. The sink sat quite nicely at 86 cm in height.

A mirror should be provided above this piece. The designer recommended a round, medium-sized, rimless mirror.

The Bed frame is covered with a protective coating from the outside. The size of the bed is 210 cm x 185 cm. A 5 cm x 5 cm high edge is on the bed’s long side. The client decided to remove the headboard. The entire bed, set at a height of 40 cm, is placed on a 5 cm x 5 cm offset and high foot blanks. The bed consists of a flat wood sheet set on wooden beams across the bed’s interior.

The delivery team put it together. The bed was placed between the two niches on the west wall. And it houses a mattress and white comforter covers, and olive green cotton sheets and pillow covers. Note that the room is slightly smaller than necessary. If you draw a straight line from the

The bathroom vanity (credit: Ibn Talib)

the bed (credit: Ibn Talib)

the bed (credit: Ibn Talib)

Guesthouse Furniture

The desk, clothes hanger, shelves, and refrigerator space were combined into one piece of furniture to save space. The design compartmentalized the functions as needed and was placed in the corner of the room. The piece was covered with a protective coating. First, a space was provided for the refrigerator, above which the shelves and hanger were positioned, all contained within 80 cm. Next to this ensemble and attached to it is the desk with a width of 95 cm so that the entire stretch of the piece is 175 cm. The legs of the piece are designed as a sweep rather than typical legs and are supported by a wooden beam on the back.

Once the furniture was placed in the corner, it became apparent that the location of the electrical outlet in the lower corner of the north wall needed to be changed. The contractor and his team moved the outlet to the back of the refrigerator.

Note that the manufactured piece suffers some imperfections. After an inspection, it was found that the piece was slightly skewed.

The kitchenette was placed on the outside of the guest house. The designer suggested that the contractor and his team could replicate the kitchen’s aesthetic in the family home. A carpenter performed the work under the supervision of the contractor. The wood used is Kempas (Koompassia malaccensis), a tropical rainforest tree in Thailand. The wood was covered with protective varnish in a dark pink-red color.

The designer created an outline for a steel structure so that the cabinet would not sit on the floor, as requested by the client, and a fixture suspended from the wall to hold the shelves. Unfortunately, the designer had to leave the project site before the kitchenette was assembled. However, work began, and the work was completed under the supervision of the client.

The desk, clothes hanger, shelves, and refrigerator space (credit: Ibn Talib)

The kitchenette (credit: Barbara Meisl)

The desk, clothes hanger, shelves, and refrigerator

The kitchenette Orthographic Drawings (size is in centimetres)

1:20

side view

1. Landscape Green Cover info

Landscape Green Cover

January 2023

The task was to green the immediate surroundings of the guesthouse. The idea was to create a pleasant green cover of versatile, ever-changing plant species. The plants had to be easy to obtain, beautiful to look at, and easy to maintain.

First, a tree is presented. The client chose a mature tree 2.5 m high. The choice was Crepe Jasmine (Tabernaemontana divaricate). This small to medium-sized tree is an evergreen that can reach 5 m in height when fully grown. The tree has a light canopy of typically glossy leaves. Its fragrant, white flowers with yellow throats grow in clusters. In addition, the tree has a slanting ellipsoid, tapered trunk, and orange fruits that sit in pairs in follicles. The tree is native to Thailand, northern India, and Myanmar and usually grows in lowland forests. (Saw, 2019)

The tree was carefully placed at the southwest corner of the guesthouse beyond the brick path. The location was chosen to keep the hottest sun from hitting the corner of the building and to help the movement of filtered air into the interior of the building when the window and door are open. In addition, the tree does not obscure the front facade of the guesthouse. This is important because it serves as an example for three planned guesthouses that will be built in the near future.

Five types of shrubs or small plants were planted in front of the guesthouse - four to the left of the main entrance and three to the right.

The first is an evergreen shrub or small tree known as Mistletoe Fig (Ficus deltoidea), which grows 60-70 cm tall. The plant has a low, bushy, dense, and round crown. The heart-shaped leaves feel glossy, are dark green, and have a yellowish-white stem and margin. This flowing plant is native to Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, and Brunei and is used in traditional medicine. (Agustina, 2014) Two of these plants were placed on the right of the main entrance and one on the left.

The green cover in the middle of May 2023 (credit: Barbara Meisl)

Crepe jasmine flower (credit: Barbara Meisl)

Mistletoe Fig (Ficus deltoidea) (credit: Barbara Meisl)

1. Landscape Green Cover info

Landscape Green Cover

The second plant is the tropical evergreen Fire Croton (Codiaeum variegatum), 60-70 cm high. This plant was chosen for its lush foliage. It has large and thick leaf blades that twist into spirals and are colored in fiery patterns of green, yellow, red, pink, and darkish purple. This flowering shrub produces flowers and capsule fruits that contain seeds. While researching this plant, I recently found that it is poisonous because it contains oil with laxative solids and irritant properties that may also be carcinogenic. Fortunately, according to the report, the plant tastes awful, so accidental poisonings are very rare. (Nova Scotia Museum, 2017) It is recommended that the three plants be moved to the edge of the farm. The plant is native to Malaysia, Indonesia, Australia, and the Western Pacific Islands. (Australia) However, it is a popular plant in Thailand and can be found everywhere in Mae Sai.

The third plant used is the Star Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides). It is a small shrub or plant that can grow to 3 m in height. As it ages, the small branches become more glabrous and rounded. The crown is round and full of dark, pointed leaves, and the white flowers are usually most fragrant in the morning and evening. This plant is found in China, Vietnam, and Thailand and is a source of perfume oil used in high-end perfumery. It is the first plant you see when approaching the guesthouse and serves as a welcoming bouquet.

The fourth is a small 70 cm high tree of Kumquat (Citrus japonica). It is the most popular new addition, as some children have developed a taste for the small, tart, orange-like fruit. The tree has a somewhat full crown, glossy leaves, and white flowers arranged in clusters. The tree is originally from southern China but has spread widely and can also be found in Thailand. (2002) It is located at the left side of the main entrance.

Finally, the last plant species presented is the Spanish Shawl or Trailing Splendor Flower (Heterocentron elegans). This plant was chosen because it can spread up to 1 m on and around the other plants, eventually covering the bare, empty areas. It produces small, lush, dark green, velvety leaves and clusters of purple flowers. It is planted around the other shrubs.

Fire croton (Codiaeum variegatum) (credit: Barbara Meisl)

Kumquat and the Spanish Shawl below (credit: Barbara Meisl)

Star Jasmine (Trachelospermum jasminoides) (credit: Barbara Meisl)

Spanish Shawl with its purple flowers (credit: Barbara Meisl)

Landscape Green Cover

The east side of the building still awaits the addition of a Banana tree (genus Musa). This herbaceous, flowering plant species was chosen because of its ability to suck up liquids leaking from the guesthouse’s septic tank.

Bibliography

Agustina, A., Zuhud, E.A.M. and Darusman, L.K. (no date) Karakteristik Habitat Mikro Tabat Barito (ficus deltoidea Jack) pada tumbuhan inangnya, Jurnal Penelitian Hutan dan Konservasi Alam. Available at: http://ejournal.forda-mof. org/ejournal-litbang/index.php/JPHKA/article/view/1419 (Accessed: 28 May 2023).

Australia, A. of L. (no date) Codiaeum variegatum var. Moluccanum (decne.) mull.arg., Codiaeum variegatum var. moluccanum | Atlas of Living Australia. Available at: https:// web.archive.org/web/20151002114123/http://bie.ala.org. au/species/urn:lsid:biodiversity.org.au:apni.taxon:427826 (Accessed: 28 May 2023).

Encyclopedia of Foods: A Guide to Healthy Nutrition (2002). San Diego, CA: Academic Press.

Nova Scotia Museum. The Poison Plant Patch: Croton (Codiaeum Variegatum) (2017) Available at https://web.archive. org/web/20171107024807/https://novascotia.ca/museum/ poison/?section=species&id=80 (Accessed: 28 May 2023).

Saw, L.G. (2019) A Naturalist’s Guide to the Trees of Southeast Asia. Oxford: John Beaufoy.

Trachelospermum jasminoides (no date) Trachelospermum jasminoides in Flora of China @ efloras.org. Available at: http://www.efloras.org/florataxon.aspx?flora_id=2&taxon_ id=200018484 (Accessed: 28 May 2023).

1. Landscape Green Cover info

Our experience

by Ania Chorzepa and Sigurd Colsman

(originally written for BAAN DOI annual newsletter)

Following the Family House project completion, the postgraduate team of BASEhabitat was invited to design the next stage of the Baan Doi farm masterplan. The students from this group are all qualified architects from almost every continent, who came together in common interest for further studies in socially responsible design with natural materials.

Our first meeting with Barbara from Baan Doi happened online while we were in Linz completing our first semester. We were excited to hear about the foundation and all the important work that Barbara has achieved. During that meeting Dominik who was leading the construction of the family house introduced us to the whole Baan Doi farm masterplan and the work done by the master students. The next step is to build 4 guesthouses, each of them has a bedroom with en suite bathroom and terrace with an outdoor kitchen facing the big pond. During our 3 months long hands-on semester we will design and build the first guesthouse.

Following this introduction, we started our design process for the project based on the preliminary design proposed by the masters students. We decided bamboo is the best structural material to use on this project since it is easy to harvest and economical. We also wanted to keep the guest house in a similar materiality to the family house. While in Linz, we began with an introduction into bamboo as a building material and tested different connections with models. Since we already knew about the good quality of the local earth, we decided to use it as our main material and proposed a masonry structure out of adobe blocks, made out of earth, sand and fibre and dried under the sun.

All the students arrived in Mae Sai in the beginning of October and started their first day with a tour of the Baan Doi farm. Barbara introduced us to our translator Selena who immediately became part of the team. After

that we started with our first adobe samples to decide on the perfect mix.

In the following two weeks we produced 2500 adobe bricks during which we were joined by the kids from Baan Doi foundation. These days together were fun for all of us, especially as the mixing involved dancing barefoot on the adobe mix. On the second week, Mr. Sak’s team arrived on site and joined the process. With each day we could see progress in the amount of bricks we could produce and in the end we managed to finish a week before estimated deadline.

During our weekends, we could always visit the kids at the foundation to join the music classes or play sports together. Before starting the next stage of our construction, we visited a bamboo treatment centre where we could also see different techniques of using bamboo.

After this workshop we were confident to treat the bamboo ourselves. During this process we were visited by a permaculture expert, Mr. Sandot, who gave us a little lecture about the principles of his work. He accompanied us to the Baan Doi forest where we harvested bamboo together. After erecting the bamboo columns, terrace and roof structure, we started laying the adobe blocks on the foundation. We finished the walls within two weeks together with embedded openings, plumbing and electrics. Jo and Verner joined us for a week, just at the right time and helped us in building the adobe wall, adding a lot of merry in the mix. On these days, the Baan Doi kids harvested the sticky rice and some of us happily joined.

In our final two weeks of this construction, the process of finalising all the finishes and details such as floor, ceiling and wall plaster was taken care of. We are looking forward to completing the guest house and eager to hear the experiences of the guests who would stay here. We are hoping they would enjoy and appreciate the warmth of the natural materials in the idyllic atmosphere of the farm, just as much as we have loved building it. 0191

A big thanks to Barbara and her wonderful team, who have been such gracious hosts, making sure that our entire period of work and stay was nothing short of amazing - food, fun and positive energy. 0192

Site commute! (Credits: Ibn Talib)

From a visit to the bamboo farm (Credits: Samyuktha)

Flo making pizzas in our adobe oven (Credits: Ibn Talib)

Thai Lunch time (Credits: Prarthana Murali)

Celebrating Loy Krathong (Credits: Samyuktha)

Rainy days at site (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

&

a special thanks to Jo, Verner, the kids of BAAN DOI and Mr. Sak & his team - Tei, Noom, La, Saai, Non, Inn.

Bamboo Harvesting

Text credits: Marta Rota

The bamboos for construction was generally brought to site on a pick-up truck. They were approximately of the diameters 5cm and 16cm.

While we didn‘t harvest the bamboo ourselves, we did get some insight into the harvesting process from Sandot, the permaculture teacher. With the help of a

few machetes, we harvested some bamboo in the newly purchased Baan Doi Forest, which will become Baan Doi‘s source for construction bamboo in the future. Sandot taught us how to identify when a bamboo is ready to be harvested, how to choose bamboo according to its future use, how to use the machete to turn freshly cut bamboo into ropes, mugs and cups, and how to weave a basket out of bamboo splits.

Bamboo forest (Credits: Florian Fend)

Sandot teaching us how to weave a basket (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

Bamboo cutting (Credits: Samyuktha Rajeev)

Collecting the harvested Bamboos (Credits: Prarthana Murali)

Appendix - Bamboo harvesting

BASEhabitat

Kunstuniversität Linz | University of Art and Design Linz die architektur

Head of BASEhabitat

Siegfried Atteneder Studio Management

Ulrike Schwantner

Construction Management Dominik Abbrederis

Coordinator Postgraduate Degree Marta Rota

Design supervision Master Degree

Flavia Matei Administration

Sabine Fehringer

Hauptplatz 6 | 4020 Linz | Austria

Telefon +43.732.78 98-2242

E-Mail basehabitat.postgrad@ufg.at www.basehabitat.org

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And it‘s a wrap! (Credits: Sigurd Colsman)