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Director of Photography: Sanju Hinge Designed by : Lakshman Khude Script Editor: Anshuman Sahastrabhojanee Illustrations: Mario Miranda Old Photographs: Raja Deen Dayal and sons Hyderabad Script by: Sangeeta Pawar Printed at Tien Wah Press (PTE) Ltd. Singapore
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Seven hilly isles, situated on a peninsula on the island of Salsette spread linearly along the Arabian Sea Coast, merging across the sands of time into a monolithic island - Mumbai, the capital of Maharashtra and the PULSE OF THE INDIAN ECONOMY. Even during the darkest of nights, the city makes its presence felt with its glittering galaxies of light making one bewilder at the man-made universe, self contained yet not pompous, on the contrary alluring the rest of the country nay the world, Yes Mumbai today has earned recognition as a global city. It’s transition from an island surrounded by marshy lands, inhabited by the humble Kolis, invaded by the Portuguese, acquired and ruled by the British for nearly two centuries to the city heralding in the true sense the ethos of Globalisation is remarkable. Today Mumbai is the most populous conurbation and the sixth most populous agglomeration in the world. Geographical factors do influence the human race, but it depends on the masses to confront these challenges and revert them in their favour. This evolution of Mumbai can be attributed to its numerous predecessors. Retrospecting its emergence, one seems to ponder - Was it the prelude of the Portuguese? - The vision of the British, the generosity of the Parsees that cradled a metropolis; of course their contribution cannot be sidelined, but can an abstract epithet suffice for the creation of such a magnanimous urb? A prerequisite is a vibrant, enthusiastic human resource to crystallize abstract into concrete, strongmen of iron nerves willing to expend themselves. May be they worked for subsistence but work they did – building Mumbai precinct by precinct, encouraging every Indian and overseas entrepreneur to invest. Setting a fine example as to how an industrially developed city can reinforce the National Income of the country and escalade the standard of living, of its locals.
The Nariman Point is the extravagant business area of Mumbai built on reclaimed land during the Back Bay reclamation scheme. To its extreme right, the World Trade Centre can be seen.
MUMBAI’S TIMELINE 1911
King George V and Queen Mary visit Bombay.
1912
Gateway of India built to commemorate the visit.
1913
Firs Indian feature film ‘Raja Harishchandra’ produced.
1915
Gandhi returns to India from South Africa at Mumbai.
January 22,1926
King Edward Memorial Hospital inaugarated.
July 15.1926
First motorised bus ran between Afghan church and Crawford Market.
1930
Mumbai Cricket Association established
October 15,1932 J. R. D. Tata landed Puss Moth at Zuhu on inaugural flight of Tata Services Karachi to Bombay. August 8,1942
Quit India Movement declaration passed at Gowalia Tank Maidan.
April 14,1944
Massive explosion rocks Bombay Harbour.
1946
Naval Mutiny against British officers
August 1947
India attains Independence
1955
Sachivalaya (Mantralaya) completed
1958
IIT Bombay established in Powai.
1960
Bombay state divided into Gujrat & Mharashtra;Bombay became capital of Maharashtra state
1964
Last tram made its journey from Bori Bundar to Dadar.
1967
Bombay Metropolitan Regional Planning Board established.
1970
Indian Navy reclaims land to the east of Gateway of India
1971
International Airport opened at Sahar
1990
Satellite TV introduced
1996
Bombay renamed to Mumbai. Subsequently University of Bombay renamed
1998
Victoria Jubilee Technological Institute renamed to Veermata Jijabai Technological Inst.
2004
The fourth World Social Forum held in Mumbai, from16–21 January
2004
The first International Marathon held
July 26,2005
to University of Mumbai.
Devstating floods marooned the city for 48 hrs.
Information Centre: Government of India Tourist Office, 123, Maharashi Karve Road, near Churchgate Station, Mumbai Tel: 2203 3144 / 45 Glancing through the pages let’s experience the enigma, that the city is- ‘The pride of every Indian’ - MUMBAI
c550AD
The ‘Chalukya dynasty’ established their capital at Gharapuri(now Elephanta caves) and a township at Salsette
c1000
Walkeshwar and Ambernath temples built by the Silhara dynasty.
c1100
Mahikawati(Mahim) established as a capital by Raja Bhimdev.
1401
Sultans of Gujrat took over Bombay islands
1498
Vasco da Gama landed at Calicut
1508
Francis Almeida sailed into the deep natural harbour.
1534
Mumbai ceded to the Portuguese.
1661
Portuguese Princess Catherine of Braganza brings Bom Bahia to King Charles II of England as part of her marriage dowry.
1668/1669
East India Company takes over Bombay
1670
Population estimated to have risen to 60,000 from 10,000 in 1661
1675
The Mumba Devi temple built by an immigrant Hindu woman, Mumba, near the main landing site on the former Bori Bunder creek or inlet, against the north wall of the English Fort Saint George.
1735
Start of ship-building industry.
1777
First newspaper published in Bombay by First printing press imported to Bombay by Parsi businessman Bhimji Parikh
1784
‘Hornby Vellard’ the first engineering project to join the seven islands embarked upon at Breach Candy
1822
First vernacular language newspaper in Bombay, Mumbai Samachar published by Fardoonjee.India’s oldest newspaper still being published.
1838
First edition of ‘Bombay Times’ and ‘Journal of Commerce’ launched
1845
‘Grant Medical’ College founded.
1853
First railway line in India between Bombay and Thane.
1854
First cotton mill started.
1858
The Queen’s proclamation signaling the transfer of power from the ‘East India Company’ to the ‘ British Crown’ declared from the steps of the Town Hall (now Asiatic Library). University of Bombay established.
1870
Bombay Port Trust formed.
1872
Bombay Municipal Corporation founded.
1885
Indian National Congress formed at Gowalia tank Maidan .
1887
Victoria Jubilee Technological Institute(VJTI) established. First and only institute offering degree in engineering until 1960.
Content
There are a few who live a meaningful life, there are still a few who give meaning to life … you were unparalled even among them.
Sanju Hinge
Page No
1.
Foreword
1
2.
Mumbai Stats & Facts
2-5
3.
Cuff Parade
6-7
4.
Nariman Point
8-9
5.
Girgaum Chowpatty - now & then
10-11
6.
Bandra
12-13
7.
Gateway of India
14-15
8.
Oval Ground - now & then
16-17
9.
Mazgaon Dock
18-19
10.
Raj Bhavan - Ariel Shot
20-21
11.
Ganesh immersion by the night, from Malabar hill.
22-23
12.
Vidhan Bhavan & Sachivalaya
24-25
13.
Vidhan Bhavan & Sachivalaya by the night
26-27
14.
Asiatic Library
28-29
15.
Flora Fountain
30-31
16.
Rajabai Tower, Mumbai University
32-33
17.
Rajabai Tower, now & then
34-35
18.
Mumbai Municipal Corporation
36-37
19.
Gateway of India - now & then
38-39
20.
Apollo Bunder - now & then
40-41
21.
Taj Hotel
42-43
22.
Sir. Cawasji Jahangir Public Hall
44-45
23.
Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus
46-47
24.
Oval Ground - now & then as seen from Rajabai Tower
48-49
25.
Babulnath Temple vicinity and Queen’s necklace - now & then
50-51
26.
Juhu Beach
52-53
27.
Trimurti at Elephanta Caves
54-55
28.
Elephanta Caves
56-57
29.
Karla Caves
58-59
30.
Mahalaxmi Racecourse
60-61
31.
Ganesh Procession at Girgaum Chowpatty
62-63
32.
Queen’s necklace
64-65
33.
Central Mumbai
66-67
34.
Mazgaon Dock
68-69
35.
Malabar Hill
70-71
36.
Bollywood Beacons
72-73
37.
Kanheri Caves
74-75
38.
Mumbai’s night life
76-77
39.
Powai Suburb
78-79
40.
Raj Bhavan Road by the night
80-81
41.
Dandiya Rass
82
42.
Mahalaxmi Racecourse
83
43.
Malabar Hill
84-85
44.
Afghan Church
86-87
45.
Parel
88-89
46.
Horniman Circle now & then
90-91
47.
Worli NSCI
92-93
48.
Cuff Parade
94-95
49.
Nariman Point
96-97
50.
Nehru Planetorium
98-99
51.
Shivajipark
100
52.
Worli Sea face
101
53.
Mahalaxmi Racecourse
102-103
54.
Bandra - Queen of Suburbs
104-105
55.
Bandra Junction
106-107
56.
Essel world
108-109
57.
Bandra Reclamation
110-111
58.
Sanjay Gandhi National Park
112-113
59.
Express Highway
114-115
60.
Siddhivinayak Temple
116-117
61.
Haji Ali Dargah by the night
118-119
62.
Mahalaxmi Temple
120
63.
Mumbadevi Temple
121
64
Haji Ali Dargah
122-123
65.
‘Sea of Humanity’ during Ganesh immersation
124-125
66.
Mount Merry Church
126-127
67.
Wankhede Stadium
128-129
68.
Dr. Anni Besant Road
130-131
69
Christmas celebrations
132-133
70.
T.V. Tower
134-135
71.
Mumbai Marathon
136-137
72.
Mumbai Air Show
138-139
73.
Matheran Mini- Train
140-141
74.
Worli - Bandra Sea Link
142-143
75.
Ambi valley
144-145
76.
Gateway of India
146-147
77.
J. J. Flyover
148-149
78.
Vihar Lake
150-151
79.
Mumbai drenched in floods
152-153
80.
Express Way through the Khandala Ghat
154-155
81.
Dadar Suburb
156-157
82.
Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus
158-159
83.
Marine Drive
160-161
84.
Mumbai Central
162-163
85.
Sun sets on the Mumbai Harbour
164-165
86.
Acknowledgements
166-167
MUMBAI STATS & FACTS
Mumbai
Capital of Maharashtra, acclaimed as India’s financial nucleus.
Location& Area :
Occupies an area of 600 sq.kms. off the western coast of India by the Arabian Sea. The coast line of Mumbai is inundated with numerous creeks and bays.
Climate:
Humid. Temperature rangesbetween 170 C to 340 C. Average rainfall 216cms
Population:
Approximately 15 million and growing. A polygot culture whose cultural scene is spiced with mostly all Indian languages, though Marathi is the official language English is also widely spoken
Literacy rate :
Mumbai’s literacy rate is 77% (female 71.6%, male 82%) Mumbai is a cluster of seven islands and whether the name is derived from ‘Mumba Aai’, the patron Goddess of the Kolis (fishermen) or the Portugese word ‘Bombain’meaning ‘Good Bay’, today is the most modern and cosmopolitan city in the ‘Republic of India’.
Places to visit:
Nariman Point, Queen’s Necklace, Girgaum Chowpatty / water sports, Taraporewala Aquarium, Malabar Hill / Hanging garden, Priyadarshani park, Gateway of India / Elephanta caves, Taj Mahal Hotel, Colaba, Sasoon Dock, Afghan Church, Jehangir Art Gallery, Prince of Wales Museum, RajabaiTowers, Asiatic Library, Flora Fountain / Hutatma Chowk, Crawford Market Mahatma Jotirao Phule,Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, Kems Corner bridge, Mahalaxmi / race course, Hajjiali Dargah, The new flyover at J.J. Hospital, Veermata Jijbai Udyan /Bhau Daji Lad Museum, Nehru Planetarium, Worli Seaface, Siddhivinayak temple, Bandra Bandstand / Mount Mary Church, Linking road / Hill road, Juhu beach /Hare Rama Hare Krishna (ISKCON) temple, International Airport, Powai / Vihar Lake / Hiranandani complex, Filmcity, Sanjay Gandhi National Park/ Kanheri caves, Chaityahbhoomi , Swaminarayan temple at Dadar, Vasai - Ancient Portugese fort, Jawahar Palace - Thane, Tansa lake & wildlife sanctury, Bombay Univercity, Walkeshwar temple Banganga.
c200 BC
Cave temples at Kanheri occupiedby the ‘Satvahans’
Photographed by Sandeep Mhatre
Personal catastrophes have always tried to render me helpless and at times mystified me, even during my wife’s last moments of life; I was busy with my camera shooting ‘Mumbai’ trying to realize her dream, the shine in her eyes never seemed to wither away though she did… I wish to acknowledge Mr. Dilip Walse Patil and Mrs. Kiran Walse Patil for their tremendous support during these trying times, similarly I wish to express gratitude to my friends, relatives and well wishers who stood by my side. This book is the realization, of their dreams too
Sanju Hinge
The political hub of Mumbai wherein are situated the Sachivalaya, the Doorsanchar building and the Vidhan Bhavan to the right.
The Horniman Circle reminds one of the Bombay Green (British era). It appears to be the genesis of today’s Fort. To its Northeast lies the Ballard Estate where major corporate giants have their headquarters. Starting from the Mint house the entire Horniman Circle till the Flora Fountain like a concurrent circle can be called as the bank street. Other than the Reserve Bank of India lie a number of banks. Towards the south of Horniman Circle between the Rajabhai Tower and Prince of Wales Museum situated on Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg (emerging from the southern tip of Horniman Circle) lie a number of educational institutes, Art Galleries, Libraries and Museums. Moving clockwise from Rajabhai Tower to the Ahilyabai Holkar Chowk extending from the north to the south lie the grounds which formerly were the Esplanades. Beginning from the north end is the Azad Maidan, Cross Maidan, Oval Maidan and the Cooperage Maidan. The greens give the feel of an oasis in an otherwise concrete topography. A number of Government Buildings, Schools, and Tourist Offices dot the east-west borders of the maidan. To the southwest of the Fort area on the left arm of the Marine Drive lies the Nariman Point which again is a commercial and a political hub. The decisive factors of the Maharashtra politics the Vidhan Bhavan and the Mantralaya adorn the Nariman Point. The western boundary of the Fort area is the Marine Drive (Back Bay Reclamation) parallel to it lies the various stadiums like Wankhade, Brabourne and number of Foreign Embassies coupled with Colleges and Government Institutions During the British era the fort was synonymous to power and authority. The present Horniman Circle was formerly known as Elphinstone Circle. This was the first commercial project undertaken during the Governorship of Sir Bartle Frere. He decided the restructuring of the Bombay Green. A large green expanse in the walled town had degenerated into an area mostly used for storing goods, which had nearly turned into a garbage heap. In 1863 the decision to convert this Bombay Green into a circle was taken. Thus with the initiation of the Police commissioner Charles Mumbai glitters by the night, adding to its glitter is the Ganesh Immersion procession concluding at the Girgaum Chowpatty that extends from the Malabar Hill.
This is Mumbai – It is not the Victorian buildings, the trendy markets, Luxor apartments, the Multi National Companies, the flyovers that have made Mumbai the soul of India, but its people drawn from all over the country infusing life into the island. Mumbai can contain the dreams of all, transforming them either into realities or illusions. To materialize his dreams the protagonist has to assert his place in the vast arena of Mumbai and compete formerly with himself and then with his counterparts. The isle city has a certain charisma that beholds everyone be it a Maharashtrian, Tamilian, Punjabi, Bihari etc. the list is endless, with varied cultures they amalgamate to evolve as a Mumbaikar/Mumbaite attributing their munificence in attitude, depth in thought, futuristic in vision, to the copious Arabian sea surrounding its shores. The nomenclature of the city is rather amusing, Mumbai is an eponym derived from the local Hindu goddess Mumbadevi, whose worship extends back to the 1400s. In the 16th century it was known as Bom Bahia, which means Good bay. Later the British gave the name ‘Bombay’. The city was renamed to Mumbai in 1995. The seven islands of Mumbai - Colaba, Old Woman’s Island, Bombay (Fort area), Mazagaon, Worli, Parel and Mahim are joined together into one landmass through three centuries of reclamation. The island city lies on the fault line and is earthquake prone. It is composed with black Basalt Rock and lies on low flat land, one fourth of which is below sea level. On either side are lower hills. The eastern hills end in Nariman Point, a head land that protects the harbour from the sea. At the end of the western hills is Malabar hill, which at only 55 meters above sea level is the highest point of the city. Initially the nerve centre of the city, was the Fort situated on a low rise between the harbour and Back Bay. Most of the city’s chief buildings, hotels, museums, cinemas and schools are in the older part of Mumbai. The tides of the Arabian Sea ebbing over the shores of Mumbai must have witnessed the upheavals of many eras, the Drenched in purple ecstasy the city waits for twilight after a hard day.
into rebuilding the town. The first War of Independence (1857) brought the country under the crown. The fort walls were torn down and the area was converted into the central district of Bombay city. The landmarks like Flora Fountain, The Victoria Terminus, The Municipal Corporation building, the University were built during this time. The process of splitting of the suburbs into residential districts had begun. During the 20th century the Fort area emerged as a commercial centre with residents moving out towards the suburbs. New landmarks in Indo-sarcenic style of architecture were built. The General Post Office, The Prince of Wales Museum, The Gateway of India, The Institute of Science, the offices of the BB (Bombay-Baroda) and CI (Central India) railways. (Now the western railways). These are symbols of Mumbai’s emerging status as the indisputable financial capital of India. Let’s trace the evolution of the Fort area. The fort walls had three strong fortified gates. One was the Apollo Gate which was located to the south of the fort, The most well known was Churchgate, named after St. Thomas standing on the spot that Flora Fountain now occupies, the third was the Bazar Gate, right opposite the present dome of the General Post Office. The three gates served the purpose of the entrance and exit for the fort. Initially in 1757 the Governor’s residence was on the Apollo Street, it was known as the New House. After 1767 it was known as the company’s house or the President House. St. Andrew’s statute or Scotch Kirk stood on the old Dock Yard road that connected the eastern ends of Forbes and Apollo Street. Today if one tries to perceive the Fort area, the three circles – Horniman (Elphinstone), Flora Fountain (Hutatma Chowk) and the Ahilyabai Holkar Chowk (Eros Theatre) seem to be in series. They appear to be like anchors for the various roads emerging from them, bifurcating the area into various sections each having an identity of its own.
The residence of Maharashtra’s Governor ‘Raj Bhavan’ occupies a prestigious place at the tip of the Malabar Hill.
Stone Age being the earliest, its tools have been found at Kandivili, in Greater Mumbai. The Kolis (fishermen) were the earliest to inhabit the islands followed by the Bhandaris (palm-troopers), Kunbhis (agriculturists) and the Dheds (menials) Aryans settled in the Indus valley and western India carried on trade with Persia, Babylon and Egypt form Salsette, present Kalyan In the 200 B.C. the area was within the Mauryan Empire of Asoka. From the 500 to 800A.D. it was ruled by the Chalukya dynasty. After the Chalukyas the Silhara chiefs from the Konkan coast ruled from the 800 to 1200. During the same period rulers called the Yadavas (1187 to 1318) established themselves in the island. Most of the place names on the island, date from this era. In 14 th century the Mohammedan invaders conquered the Mumbai region, which became part of the kingdom of Gujarat. In 1534 the Portuguese who already possessed many important trading centers on the western coast took Mumbai by force of arms from Bahadur Shah the Sultan of Gujarat. This era saw a number of Portuguese Churches coming up. They were built in areas where the majority were Roman Catholics. St. Andrew’s Church in Bandra showcases the Portuguese style façade. A number of forts were built at Sion, Mahim and Bandra. A hundred and twenty eight years later the islands were given to the English King Charles II in dowry on his marriage to the Portugal Princess Catherine of Braganza in 1662. The British finally succeeded in taking over the island in 1665. They decided to fortify the remains of the Manor house which was built by a Portuguese physician; this was renamed as the Bombay Castle. In the year 1668 the islands were acquired by the East India Company on lease from the crown for an annual sum of 10 pounds in gold. The first Governor of Mumbai Sir George Oxeden sensed the potential of Mumbai and it was on his initiation that the company director ordered the construction of a customhouse, warehouse and quay and fortified the existing castle. Similar forts were built in Mazgaon and Worli.
The serene atmosphere and the sophisticated ambience, belies the fact that Bandra was once a village of rice plantations. The Ganesh immersion has lit up it’s opposite shore.
The end of the 18th century saw the beginning of civil administration, as by 1798 there were 1000 houses inside the fort walls and 6500 outside. The decade of the 1850s ushered a sea change in Mumbai, the completion of causeways, advent of modern machines, establishment of the Bombay spinning and weaving companies, cotton mill at Tardeo in central Mumbai and the change in life styles paved the way for the development of Mumbai Mumbai further progressed due to the abolition of East India Company’s trade monopoly, the coming of steam ship, and opening of a railway line – First in Asia (1853). The Company on the onset always had aimed to nourish Mumbai as a center of trade and thus the cities had the steady influx of migrants like the Bandhari from Chaul, Vanjars from the ghats, Bhatias, Banias, Shenvi Brahmins, Parsis, Goldsmiths, Ironsmiths, Weavers from Gujarat, Kamathi construction workers from the Nizam’s territory. Thus there existed two parallel cultures working in cohesion, this fact is also apparent today, though in a different form. The city remained in Company hands until the Revolt of 1857, when it was taken over by the crown. During the American Civil War (1861-1866) Mumbai’s prominence grew, as it became the chief cotton market. The opening up of the Suez Canal in 1869 also boosted Mumbai’s overseas trade, as it shortened the route between western India and Europe. From a trading center of the East India Company to the imperialist center of the crown Mumbai endured to quench the insatiable thirst of everyone later it became the center for nationalist and political activity. In 1885 the first session of the Indian National Congress was held in the city it was this movement that eventually won India Independence from the British. The 19th century witnessed the dawn of a modern city. Reclamations connected the islands that constituted the city. Owing to the American Civil War (1861-65), Bombay emerged as a major center of cotton trade. Thus a lot of wealth was amassed not only by the British but also by the locals. This money was channelized
The Mazgaon Docks built in 1790, are the identification of Mazgaon – one of the 7 islands of Mumbai. Presently the docks are under the control of Ministry of Defence and play a strategic role in securing National defense.
Since than Mumbai has been India’s Chief western seaport and is rightly called the Gateway to Asia. Mumbai began to grow rapidly under the administration of Gerald Aungier who was the British Governor from 1669 to 1677. He setup a militia, which later became the East India Company’s army. He welcomed traders and craftsmen, planned town in the vicinity of Bombay Castle, established a mint, built a small hospital, opened a printing press. Courts of jurisdiction were also initiated in this period. A large building called Mapla Por was used for this purpose. Later on it became the first town hall of Mumbai. There was no looking back for Mumbai after 1686 as the seat of governance and maritime trading activities, of the East India Company were shifted from Surat to Mumbai; the castle was then called the Bombay Fort. By the end of the 17th century, Mumbai had developed into an important local port inviting traders and merchants to contribute in its development. The land between Dongri in the north and Mendham’s point in the south was fortified, the St.Thomas church was also built within the fort. During the next twenty years the Fort improved and was being called ‘Kala Killa’ maybe due to the depredation of the British more than its black basalt walls. The 1735 witnessed the arrival of Parsis in Mumbai. Lowjee Nusserwanji a Parsi foreman was invited to modernize the Bombay shipyard. His arrival set the motion, which was finally going to unwind into one of the busiest seaports in Asia. In 1769, Fort George was built and in the next year the Mazagaon docks were built. During the tenure of William Hornby (1771 to 1784) as the Governor, the prestigious Hornby Vellard was built. This was the first engineering project joining the seven islands. The cost of the Vellard was estimated at Rs. 1,00,000 constructed at Breach Candy in 1784 it joined the main island of Bombay to Worli preventing the flat lands of the north Bombay from being flooded at every high tide. A series of reclamations began. During the 18th century, a British township grew up inside the fort. A few wealthy Indian merchants were allowed to build houses inside the fort. Mumbai’s insignia the ‘Gateway Of India’ heralds the grandiose of the city.
A series of Gothic buildings like The High court, Stock Exchange, Door Sanchar Bhavan and the Bombay University rim the Oval Maidan.
People enjoying at the banks of the Apollo Bunder before the Gateway of India was built. (1913)
Mumbai’s landmark ‘The Gateway Of India’ designed by George Wittet was built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary, it was formally opened by the then Viceroy ‘The Earl of Reading’ on 4th Dec 1924. After India’s independence, it was through this gate that the last British troops from the Battalion of the ‘Somerset Light Infantry’ left India in a ceremony on 28 th Feb 1948.
Forjett, motivation of Dr. Buist of the Bombay Times and the concrete support of the Governors John Lord Elphinstone, Sir Bartle Frere laid the foundation stone of the circle building in October 1864. James Scott designed the facades of the building around the circle. The first building to occupy the circle was the Bank of Bombay. The Elphinstone Circle now Horniman Circle has created an east-west, north-south axis through the precinct of the Fort area. Thus the Town Hall, Victoria Terminus, Bombay University, Gateway of India formed the ends of the axis. The Town Hall is to the East, which contains the Asiatic Library and the Mumbai Municipal State Central Library. It houses a collection of old and rare manuscripts During the nineteenth century the Town Hall had become a centre for discussions on civic and political issues. Interestingly the inception of Mumbai’s Town Hall was encouraged by General Aungier (1672-1675) who introduced the system of law and order by the establishment of a court in a building called Mapla Por that also served as Bombay’s first Town Hall. Until 1833 town meetings were held here. A proposal to build a new town hall was reintroduced by James Mackintosh in 1811, the recorder for Mumbai. The Town Hall was to occupy the place close to the Bombay Castle, due importance was given while designing it as it was to be the sphere for many commercial, social and political activities. Colonel Thomas Cowper of the Bombay Engineers designed the Town Hall, after his death Major John Hawkins was entrusted with the completion of the Town Hall. The impressive building is 200 feet long and 100 feet deep. It’s Corinthian interiors have tall windows with wooden blinds (jhilmils) The three porticos flaunt Doric columns. The Town Hall was completed in 1833 providing space for civic debates and public meetings giving scope for the conception of civic ideology thus many decisions of political and civic nature were resolved by consensus in its prestigious assembly room.
Indeed a man – made universe, with numerous galaxies of light that adorn the isle city. The circular ‘Vidhan Bhavan’ Legislative Assembly can be seen to the left, to the right is the Cuff Parade area.
Keeping in view the growing number of people, the Bombay Municipal Corporation (BMC) was created in 1865 and Arthur Crawford was appointed the first municipal commissioner of Bombay for five years. The foundation stone for the offices of the Bombay Municipal Corporation was laid on December 9, 1884, by the Viceroy, Lord Ripon. It was designed in the Gothic style by F. W. Stevens. Completed in 1893, the building has a 255 feet tall tower and over its façade is placed an allegorical figure of ‘Urbs Prima in Indis’ one of the most appropriate sobriquet for Mumbai. The BMC was instrumental in the development of Mahim, the expansion of the capacity of the Tansa Lake and acquiring of agricultural land around the Vihar Lake as a sanitary safeguard in the early twentieth century. Situated on the Dadabhai Nowrwjee road to the left of the Azad Maidan the BMC has done creditable work through the years. The High Court was designed by J.A.Fuller and completed in 1878. Built in blue basalt, its sprawling complex radiates with power and authority. It is 562 feet long and 189 feet wide with a height of 90 feet. To the west of its central tower are two octagonal towers whose spiralets are crowned by the figures of Justice and Mercy, giving testimony that the same are dispensed in the interiors. The old Secretariat nearby is built in the Venetian Gothic style and planned by Sir Henry Bartle and Edward Frere during 1865-74; it is designed and constructed by Col. Henry St. Clair Wilkins. Its arcaded verandahs have some fine stone carvings. Between the High Court and the Old Secretariat lie the venerable complexes of the University. Designed by Sir Gilbert Scott in French Gothic style its work completed in 1874. It consists of an exquisite University Library and the Convocation Hall named after its donor Sir Cowasji Jehangir. The imposing Rajabhai Clock Tower with its towering height of 280 feet lies in its vicinity. It consists of five ornate storeys. Various intricate statues are its main feature also a noteworthy fact is the depiction of different Indian castes by about eight statues. Both the Tower and the Library was funded by Premchand Roychand a well known Banker and ‘Cotton King’.
The guardian of Mumbai- The Brihan Mumbai Municipal Corporation designed in Gothic style by W. Stevens. Its construction was completed in1893. Over the façade of its tower is placed an allegorical figure of ‘Urbs Prima in Indis’.
The coming up of Town Hall brought to fore a variety of opinions, which accelerated the process of policymaking hence opening up different avenues of knowledge. Certainly the establishment of the Literary Society of Bombay by James Mackintosh in 1804 was one of them. This society became a part of the North Wing of the New Town Hall. Marble statues of academicians, eminent governors and citizens viz Sir Charles Forbes, Sir John Malcolm. Sir Jagannath Shankarshet Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, Bhau Daji Lad and Bhagwanlal Indraji grace the hall as a mark of respect for these visionaries and philanthropists whose contribution had enhanced the growth of Mumbai. The marble flight of stairs of the Town Hall or The Asiatic Library as it is known today, captivate the onlooker’s mind and inspire one to ascend them and look back eagerly as if the city of yore may be beckoning them from its footsteps. Flora Fountain – named after the Roman Goddess of Abundance, was erected in 1869 to honour Sir Edward Frere and Sir Henry Bartle to whom Mumbai owes many of her great public buildings. Many a times it is referred as the ‘Piccadilly Circus’ of Mumbai. Mythological figures form the four corners of the fountain made of dull stone. The figure of ‘Flora’ is at the top. Initially grass and palm trees surrounded the fountain; in 1908 this was cleared to make way between the tramlines and the kerb of the fountain. Now the Goddess shares the place with a monument honouring the Martyrs who died fighting for the cause of Maharashtra. Hence it is called the Hutatma Chowk. Dr. Dadabhai Nowroji road named after the first Indian to become the British Member of Parliament, heads northeast from the fountain towards Victoria Terminus. Magnificent buildings of British architecture line on both sides of the road.
The impressive Town Hall with Corinthian interiors was completed in 1833. It also houses the Asiatic Library and was instrumental in moulding social and political thought during the early 19th century.
Flora Fountain a famous landmark of Mumbai was erected in 1869, the marble statue of ‘Flora’-The Goddess of Abundance adorns the Fountain.
The Rajabhai Tower in the 20th century, it was funded by the philanthrophists Premc hand Roychand.
By the turn of the 19th century due to rapid industrialization the city’s physical and commercial form underwent a sea change. Mumbai’s business and industry expanded manifold, which resulted in the formation of several note worthy commercial associations, which proved to be the parameter for the industry and a link between the Government and the entrepreneurs from the Indian community. The Bombay Stock Exchange established in December 1887 is one of them. In the early 1840’s a small group of stockbrokers would sit under a shade of a cluster of banyan trees and manage their business. The tree still exists in the Horniman Circle but the Stock Exchange is now placed in a building nearby on Dalal Street. It is the largest in main land Asia and accounts for almost 2/3 of total business in the country’s stock market. It ranks the Third largest exchange in the world. It was the first to be recognized among eight stock exchanges and the only one to get permanent recognition. Today it stands out as the best-organized stock exchange. Formerly the headquarters of the Shroffs or Indian bankers were near Bazar Gate. Likewise, the Bank of India was established in 1840 and gets the credit of being the first building erected in the Horniman Circle. Sir Bartle Frere had laid its foundation stone. The Reserve Bank of India started functioning on 1st April 1935 in the old Bank of Bombay.
After a few years they purchased a large plot opposite to the Mint, which formerly was the site of old, military barracks. The building was completed in April 1939 on the angle formed on the junction of the Mint road and the Bazar Gate Street. The architect J. A. Ritchi partner in Bombay of Palmar and Turner designed this impressive building. The main entrance of the bank has two sixty feet high Corinthian columns of Malad stone. Its exterior sans any ornamentation or architectural design, reflect the security and credibility that a bank should posses. The image of the Fort was further reinforced with the opening of this bank in close proximity of the Mint and Stock Exchange. The buildings or edifices as they should be rightly called situated on the western front and across the Esplanades facing the Fort have given a unique character to the city, which certainly serve as memoirs of the colonial era. The Secretariat, University Convocation Hall, the High Court, the Rajabhai Tower, are some of these designed in Victoria Gothic architecture, catering for the same purpose for which they had been conceived.
The imposing Rajabhai Clock Tower in the vicinity of the High Court is another landmark of Mumbai. It consists of five ornate storeys with intricate statues.
The Gateway of India occupies a prestigious place at the Apollo Bunder.
The Elephanta caves are a series of seven magnificent rocks cut caves, built between 2nd century BC to 7 th century AD. Various incidents in the life of Lord Shiva and the moments of Hindu mythology are sculptured intrinsically in the caves.
which other than being breathing spaces for the locals are major tourist attraction. Marine Drive is a windswept promenade, land-locked between the Nariman Point and the slopes of the Malabar Hills. The Back Bay Reclamation brought the sea front into existence, which is often referred to as the Queen’s Necklace as its sweeping curve glitters with streetlights resembling an ostentatious strand of imperious jewels. The evening makes a delightful picture with hawkers, couples and even babies in their perambulators, assembled to watch the sun setting and the city lights conjuring up for yet another night. Over looking the Marine Drive is the beautiful Kamala Nehru Park. And the Hanging Gardens built over Mumbai’s main reservoir at the top of the Malabar Hills. At the end of the Marine Drive lies the Chowpatty beach, though in the morning the beach wears a deserted look, in the evening it comes to life and is rightly referred as the heart of the city. The white sandy beach has witnessed some significant events during the Indian freedom struggle.
This tradition of wealthy people financing public projects is evident prominently in Mumbai and in a way has created a sense of social responsibility in its inhabitants. Countries across the borders of India identify Mumbai with the magnificent ‘Gateway’ situated on the western edge of the city. The serene atmosphere created during the dawn and dusk by the hues of the sunrays, is indeed magical. Designed by George Wittet in 16th century Gujrathi work, it is one of the last imperial monuments built by the British in Mumbai. Though the work commenced on 31st March 1913 it was completed only in 1927. The ceremonial arch was built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary for the Delhi Durbar on the 2nd December 1911 It was formally opened by the then Viceroy, the Earl of Reading, on the 4th December, 1924. The main structure was built in yellow-coloured basalt but the domes and galleries were made of reinforced cement. On entering the main doorway, there is a staircase behind small black doors that leads to the top of the Gateway where one can see the harbour. At the top are four spires enclosing a small space with large balconies on either side. During the evenings as tourists, locals, vendors gather, a lively atmosphere engulfs the arch. Many launches depart from here for joy rides or for the Elephanta caves. Within the compound are statues of Swami Vivekanand and the Maratha leader Shivaji, astride a horse erected in 1960. One cannot miss the majestic ‘Taj Mahal Hotel’ opposite to the Gateway of India; it marks the beginning of an urban city that Mumbai was to be. Built by the industrious Jamshedji Tata, in 1903 it was designed by W.A. Chambers. Most of the Hotels during that time were open to only Europeans, the Taj gave an opportunity for all to socialize regardless of their caste or creed. Incidentally the Taj is India’s first five star hotels. A number of cultural institutes, art galleries and museums lie in the area called Kala Ghoda situated between the Colaba and the Fort area. A 12 feet 9 inch bronze statue of King Edward VII on black horse had been installed in the area hence the unusual
This colossal 6 mt high, three-headed bust of Shiva, adorns one of the Elephanta caves. The imposing sculpture symbolizes Shiva as the creator, destroyer and the preserver. The caves are a fine example of Buddhist rock cut dwellings.
The ‘Taj Mahal Hotel’ is a landmark in Mumbai’s social diaspora. It signaled the urbanity that the city was to reveal. Built in 1903 by the industrious Jamshetji Tata as a backlash to the Hotels that did not permit Indians during those times. It’s the first five star hotel of the country.
frontage is over 1500 feet; a massive stone lion and tiger guard the entrance gate. A 160 feet dome, crowns the centre, on top of it, is a figure of a woman with a torch held aloft to symbolize progress. The main entrance has four great doorways that open to the booking offices. Being the headquarters, about 1000 trains and nearly two million commuters pass through the Terminus. The electric local trains leave every three to four minutes. They can be called the lifeline of Mumbai. This building has long been on the urban heritage list and a protected monument. It was put on the UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE LIST on July 2, 2004. It is the first functional administrative building to be put on the list. The Mani Bhavan or Gandhi Sangrahalaya is situated on the Laburnum Road, is yet another place with great historical importance. The father of the nation on many occasions had stayed here. The Library on the ground floor consists of more than 20,000 books on Gandhiji’s life and allied subjects. An exhibition depicting the Mahatma’s life, through mini figures is in the room adjoining Gandhiji’s room. The place takes you back to the freedom struggle days. Mumbai’s skyline is a fine blend of Victorian monuments and plush skyscrapers so is its coastline with promenades and sleek beaches,
An exhibition of Picaso paintings adorns the walls of the Sir Cawasji Jahangir Public hall, Mumbai.
The runaway of the old airport, runs perpendicular to the Juhu Beach. It was here on 15 October 1932 that JRD Tata landed his “pussmoth� on the inaugural flight of Tata Services from Karachi to Mumbai, thus paving the way for civil aviation in India.
Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus has long been on the urban heritage list and a protected monument. It was put on the UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE LIST on July 2, 2004.
name. The Prince of Wales Museum is situated in this area, Its foundation stone was laid by the Prince of Wales in 1905. The Museum was completed in 1914 but was used as a military hospital during the first World War. It was opened to public in the year 1923. George Wittet designed it in Indo-Saracenic style using yellow and blue basalt. A beautiful ornamental garden surrounds the museum and it has an impressive gallerial center hall with a huge dome that sparkles in the sunshine. Its collection includes impressive sculptures from Elephanta Island, Gujrat, Karnataka Terracotta figures from Indus valley miniature paintings porcelain and weaponry section of natural history is also included. In the close vicinity of the museum is the coveted Sir Cowasji Jehangir Public Hall that houses the National Gallery of Modern Art. Built in 1952 the Art gallery is managed by the Bombay Art Society, The nearby Jehangir Art Gallery hosts exhibitions of modern art of national & international artistes. Another famous gallery at the National Centre for Performing Arts at Nariman Point has splendid collection of modern Indian Art, which appears in rotation with special exhibitions. The Victoria and Albert Museum (now Dr. Bhau Daji Lad) is placed in the Victoria Gardens (now Veermata Jijamata Bhonsle Udyan) in Byculla, designed in the Italian Renaissance style by Mr. Tracey. Though the laying of the gardens began in 1862 the work was completed only in November 1872. Sprawling on 33 acres of land, the garden has a lovely collection of diverse flora and fauna. A large stone elephant, which once stood on the Elephanta islands, now stands guard at the entrance of the garden. The awesome Gothic complex lavishly decorated with sculptures looks more like a palace than a monotonous railway station. The Chhatrapathi Shivaji Terminus (Victoria Terminus) situated at the site of the Koli’s original temple of Mumbadevi is architecturally one of the finest station in the world. Frederick William Stevens designed it in style that combines Gothic and Italian influences. The work of the building commenced in 1878 and was opened for traffic on 1st January 1888. The
The temple seen to the extreme left at the backdrop of the Girgaum Chowpatty is the Babulnath temple (dedicated to Lord Shiva) built in 1780.
Above is the the Oval Maidan in 1890. During the colonial days, the Fort had Esplanades, which later became grounds; the Oval Maidan is one of them.Today these grounds are not only the lungs of the city but are also melting pots for various Social and Cultural activities.
Bollywood at it’s best, when well known Aishwarya Rai and cinematographer Ashok Mehta shoot together.
The elegant Victorian monuments, the laudable art galleries and museums, the heavenly beaches have imparted Mumbai a sense of aestheticism a virtue hardly seen in any urban city. The bygone days enchant one’s mind but simultaneously create an urge to explore and co-relate the realities of today. What is Mumbai today? Has it withstood the test of time? A city that proved to be an arena for various engineering feats, today its success should be attributed to the harnessing of science and technology for the benefit of mankind coupled with a socialist approach of industrialists like Jagannath Shankar Sheth, Jehanjir Cowasjee, Pherojshah Mehta, Jamshetji Tata were some of them who were instrumental in moulding the city into a real ‘Urbs Prima in India’ and truly the ‘Pride of India’. It certainly is not a hyperbolic statement but an assertive statement. A synopsis of all its aspects will surely help us to understand the city. Maharashtra is rightly called the Industrial capital; of India, Mumbai the state’s capital plays a pivotal role in determining this status. The growth of an economy needs, seeds of foresight sown in the soil of yielding policies, nurtured with a enthusiastic die-hard work culture only then will it bear fruits, Mumbai whose very conception was for commerce has competently performed as expected at every stage of its development as foreseen by its predecessor be it the proselytizing of the Portuguese, that had resulted in the mushrooming of churches and addition of diverse religious elements in the society or the conversion of a modest island to major trade centre, its contribution to the country’s economy is evident from the fact that a third of the country’s income tax, 20% of central excise and 60% of all custom duties are paid by the city. Major financial institutions like the Reserve Bank of India, Life Insurance Corporation, Unit Trust of India, Industrial Development Bank of India, Indus Credit and Investment Corporation of India, Central Bank, Bank of India, Union Bank all have their headquarters at Mumbai.
The ‘Karla’ caves, are the finest Buddhist cathedral caves in India, they stand as an example of the various movements, taking place in Maharashtra. Situated in the Sahyadri mountains at Lonavala, the Buddhist monks excavated them during the first century B. C. for residing and preaching their religion. These caves mark the culmination of the Hinayan sect of Buddhism.
A number of ‘Quit India’ rallies were conducted here. Lokmanya Balgangadhar Tilak the great nationalists leader was cremated here in 1920, his statue now graces the beach. The Taraporewala Aquarium, nearby is yet another place worth seeing, The Late Dr. Rajendra Prasad (first President of India) had inaugurated it in 27th May 1951. A fine display of marine life is exhibited here. The largest and the most frequented beach, is the Juhu Beach on the Bandra-Khar Road. The weekends are like a carnival, with acrobats, camel and horse rides, merry-go-rounds and the vendors. There are a number of five star hotels in the area and also stalls selling the famous ‘Bhelpuri’ and other fast food varieties along with the delicious kulfi. Towards the north of the Juhu is the Versova beach; there are still a few streteches of golden sand like the Gorai, Marve, Manori and Madh Most of them are accessible by ferries. Every era leaves its pugmarks, also ancient Mumbai can boast of many such legacies, the oldest being the Elephanta
The oval shaped Mahalaxmi Racecourse managed by the Turf Club is considered to be one of the finest racing grounds. The racing season starts in November and ends in April. The prestigious Derby race is usually on the first Sunday in April.
The tracks of the CST can be seen, at rear end are the Mazgaon Docks built in 1790, the identification of Mazgaon –one of the 7 islands of Mumbai. Presently the docks are under the control of Ministry of Defence and play a strategic role in securing National defense.
caves. Catamarans, launches dot the Apollo Bunder next to the Gateway of India waiting to take art lovers across to the caves. Dating back to A.D. 533 to A.D. 566 these caves belonged to the Mauryan Dynasty and are dedicated to Lord Shiva. A fine example of Buddhists rock cut dwellings or Viharas, called Gharapuri –the fortress city initially. The Portuguese named it Elephanta after they saw a large stone elephant on its shore. There are series of seven magnificent rock cut caves, located 76 mt above the sea level. The most impressive of all is the one with a 1 mt lingam and a colossal 6 mt. high, three headed bust of Shiva, each symbolizing his form as the creator, destroyer and the preserver. Nine panels are positioned serially along the right side of the rear cave. Sculptured intrinsically these depict the various incidents in the life of Shiva and the moments of Hindu mythology. One of the panel showcases the marriage of Shiva and Parvati, bringing forth the scenario with great details-Brahma reading the sacred texts for the marriage ceremony, attendants including Vishnu, Chandra, the moon God carrying a water pot and escorting the bride is her father ‘Himalaya’ the lord of the snow clad mountains. Adorning another panel is one of the most melodramatic events of Shiva performing the Tandava with Parvati and Ganesh at his side. Ravana the demon king of Sri Lanka attempting to dislodge Mount Kailas and Shiva seated on a lotus pressing down on his head forms the theme of yet another panel. The east wing of the open court consists a temple on a high terrace assemble by a flight of steps flanked by stone lions. Sculptures of Shiva, Vishnu, Bramha and seven great Goddesses form the plethora of the temple. The west wing also has an open court and a small chapel. Once a year a weeklong fest of music and dance is held here by the Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation. The audiences remain spell bound in the serene atmosphere of music and dance.
Though the erstwhile leader ‘Lokmanya Tilak revived the ‘Ganesh Festival’ more than 100 years ago to strengthen the national movement, it is still being celebrated with the same vigour and enthusiasm.Lakhs of people gather on the Girgaum Chowpatty on 10th day immersion procession of the Ganesh Festival.
The Buddhist monks, excavated caves or Viharas from a hillside to pursue a life of peace and penance. The Kanheri caves, situated in National Park (Sanjay Gandhi Udyan) at Borivli, built in the middle of the 2nd century are one of them. The style of architecture coincides with Ajanta and Ellora caves of Aurangabad. Ancient caves and monuments help us to peep at history and make it easier for us to understand. The thick foliage and a stream running through it, lend a fine ambience to the caves, which depict the symbols of Buddhism. The rock cut masterpieces amounting to about 109, date back between the end of 2nd century A.D. to the middle of 9th century. Striking among these are the two towering figures of Lord Buddha, 6.5 mtr. high. One of the cave has a great Chaitya still another cave No.10 to be precise was a Dharmasala (boarding). A few exquisite paintings, a figure of Padmani crowned by ten cobra heads, and reliefs of Buddha, grace the other cave. Karla, Bhaja and Bedsa caves are the largest Chaitya (halls of worship) caves in India, dating back to the 2nd Century B.C. and 7th century A.D.they are located 114km from Mumbai, off the Mumbai –Pune express highway. The Chaitya hall at Karla, 124ft. long, 46 ½ ft wide and 45 ft. high, is considered to be the biggest in the country. Buddhist from all the over the world visit the place of pilgrimage. The Chaitya has 37 columns, a vaulted roof supported by 2000year old wood work, a sun window through which light and shadow transverses to lend a touch of austerity. Belonging to the same period are the Bhaja caves consisting of a Chaitya and Vihara. Not very accessible are the Bedsa caves, having some excellent carving and sculpture. Amidst the galore of the ultra modern city the caves stand as a symbol of reverence for the most ancient period of the history. From archeological wonders to beaches with plush resorts, Mumbai has a place to suit every tourist, an Indian or a foreigner.
Between the Nariman Point and the slopes of the Malabar Hill, lies the Marine Drive, a promenade often referred to as the ‘Queen’s Necklace’ due to its sweeping curve that glitters with street lights. Its awesome to watch the sun setting and the city lights conjuring up, for yet another night.
It also boasts of housing maximum foreign banks and several corporates. Banks held 70% of India’s bank deposits with head offices in Mumbai as early as 1972. It handles about 46% of India’s foreign trade. It generates nearly 20% of total employment in India’s organized industry. Today Mumbai has a wide range of industries, the cotton textile being the first, this industry was started as early as 1854, by Nanabhoy Davar, He started the Bombay Weaving and Spinning Company taking the first step towards self-sufficiency. This was the turning point of Mumbai as from a trading centre and a market it was taking a stride towards manufacturing. Mumbai today accounts for nearly 26% of the total cloth production and is the largest cloth market in the world. Apart from cotton textiles silk, rayon, wool and synthetics are also manufactured. The textile industry has played a crucial role, as people from all over the country came here to look for livelihood, the blue collar community gave a peculiar tone to the city’s social life.