A 360 degree concept Dear Stylist, JOICO proudly presents the 3rd generation of Salon I-Deas, a 360 degree concept with many elements to inspire, develop and support those who we believe to be the most important hairdresser of all... the salon hairdresser. As such, the techniques within have been designed with the notion of suitability, versatility and adaptability in mind. Salon I-Deas has been created for all hairdressers at all levels of experience. In addition to providing a solid foundational repertoire it features creative ideas and options to suit all types of clientele. This concept features inspiration and stunning, yet salon-friendly, cutting, coloring and styling techniques; ones that are instantly applicable to your daily salon work. It teaches the concept that cutting and styling techniques applied with speed and ease can still be thought-provoking and head-turning. By learning the craft of understanding and interpreting for individual suitability, our aim is to strengthen all your skills in giving a client something refreshing that suits their lifestyle, hair type, face shape and personality. As Vision Director Gianni Scumaci says: “I believe we are all born artists, the challenge is to remain one�.
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Glossary Head anatomy
Body mapping
Water spray
Terminology
section/area pivot point sectioning line parting
Areas on the head.
Body mapping is an essential
The most misunderstood and
and fundamental element in
abused tool in our craft. We all
understanding the approach to a
have our own unique relationship
haircut. It examines the theory of
with hair and depending on how
balance, length and the control
we treat it we determine the
of weight distribution through
sensitivity of the conversation we
physical self-awareness. Although
have with it.
this simple tool can be one of
Learning to be aware and
the most solid foundations to
controlling the level of dampness
acquire as a beginner, it also is a
in hair as we are working its
useful tool for experienced cutters
texture is a skill set all of its own.
disconnected area
for finding and breaking hidden inherited habits.
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Cutting & Refining TECHNIQUES
SLIDING CONNECTION TECHNIQUE
DEEP POINTING
SHALLOW POINTING
To connect longer areas into shorter
To remove weight from a deeper part of the hair shaft: approach the hair with
Employing the same technique
(previously cut) areas in a loose manner.
the blades of your scissor open and close the blades as you move away.
as deep pointing at a shallower level of the hair shaft.
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TOP SLICING
UNDER SLICING
Slicing the hair from the top of the hair
Employing the same technique as
shaft using the scissors at a shallow
with top slicing to remove weight
angle with the blades slightly opened.
from the underneath surface of the
Use to remove weight from the outer
hair shaft.
EXTERNAL POINTING
surface of the hair shaft.
The result
The result
Depending on the external shape required, use the tips of the scissor blades to remove length from the ends of the hair.
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Inspiration
THE CASCO TECHNIQUE
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CUT
COLOR
She came in with her bicycle and wearing a helmet and took it off apologizing as she said she always had helmet hair. I stopped her before she could put her hands through it as it inspired me to realize the elements of this technique and shape.
I imagined the plume of the helmet falling down on to the metal area to create a 2 dimensional tone – think i.e. of the violet in to silver - to enhance the longer layers of the cut.
Cutting
Baseline before actual cutting
Before 1 Cut a baseline retaining length towards the front as shown. Use the base of the neck on the mannequin head as a guide.
Sectioning 3 2 1
1 Take a center section from the front to the back.
2 Above the O-bone, take a section from ear to ear creating area 1.
3 Section of the hair as shown creating areas 2 and 3.
4 Section of a triangular area for the fringe.
Repeat on the opposite side.
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Cutting Area 1 3 2
2
1
1
1 Pivoting from the center, lifting out, layering the hair to reduce weight keeping a square shape as shown.
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3
2
2+3
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Overview of the shape.
Wrap dry area 1 once finished and refine.
Cutting Area 2 2
2
front view
back view
1
2
Working from above the ear towards the front hairline, taking vertical partings layering from shorter to longer, as shown.
Once finished wrap dry area 2.
Begin to pivot from the top of the ear working towards the back.
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2
Cutting Area 3 3 2
front view
1+2
3
Taking partings as shown from the front to the back of area 3, directing the hair back, using a travelling guideline to create a square shape as shown. Area 3 is disconnected from area 1.
Once finished wrap dry area 3.
Fringe Area
Refinement
1+2
3
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Create a fringe when the hair is damp following the shape as shown. Divide the frindge into two sections, working the underneath section first.
Wrap dry the fringe area.
Taking horizontal sections. directing the hair forward use a razor to remove corners.
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Color: The Casco WORKSHOP FORMULA 1 (For Mannequin Head) PRE-LIGHTENING FORMULA 1 scoop Blonde Life Powder Lightener + 30 ml Vero K-PAK Color Veroxide 20 Volume (6%) FOIL FORMULA 1 20 ml Vero K-PAK Color 8V + 4 ml Vero K-PAK Color INV + 20 ml Vero K-PAK Color Veroxide 10 Volume (3%) FOIL FORMULA 2 15 ml Vero K-PAK Color 10A + 5 ml Vero K-PAK Color INS + 15 ml Vero K-PAK Color Veroxide 10 Volume (3%) BASE FORMULA 40 ml Vero K-PAK Color 6V + 15 ml Vero K-PAK Color 6B + 55 ml Vero K-PAK Color Veroxide 10 Volume (3%) ––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
WORKSHOP FORMULA 2 (ALTERNATE) PRE-LIGHTENING FORMULA 10 ml Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 20 ml Lumishine Creme Developer 20 Volume (6%) FOIL FORMULA 1 10 ml LumiShine™ Demi-liquid Color 7V/7.2 + 10 ml LumiShine™ Demi-liquid Color 9V/9.2 + 20 ml LumiShine™ Crème Developer 5 Volume (1.5%) FOIL FORMULA 2 20 ml LumiShine™ Demi-liquid Color 10BA/10.8+ 1 drop LumiShine™ Demi-liquid Color 1BA/1.8 + 20 ml LumiShine™ Crème Developer 5 Volume (1.5%) BASE FORMULA 60 ml LumiShine™ Demi-liquid Color 6NV/6.02 + 60 ml LumiShine™ Crème Developer 5 Volume (1.5%) 10
Coloring
Sectioning
Before 1
Model had a natural level 5 virgin hair.
Part the hair into a middle section, creating 2 areas.
Color Technique
1 Take diagonal weave partings, starting from the front working towards the back.
2 Working with the layers of the haircut, section the hair, working from the center parting, taking 2 slightly triangular sections, working narrower towards the crown.
2 Blow dry the pre-lightened weaves.
Apply the pre-lightening formula. Leave to process until desired lift is achieved. Remove foils from the hair keeping the foils separated from the rest of the hair. Rinse the pre-lightening formula from the hair and shampoo with K-PAK Professional Clarifying Shampoo followed by K-PAK Professional Cuticle Sealer, K-PAK Deep-Penetrating Reconstructor.
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20 MIN
3 Starting at the front in the longer lengths, create a split foil, using formula 2 from the roots to mid-lengths, smudging into midlenghts. Then apply formula 3 from mid-lengths to ends.
4 When the length becomes shorter, apply only formula 2 onto the pre-lightened weaves.
5 Apply formula 1 to the remaining hair and in between weaves and process for 20 min.
Remove foils from the hair, emulsify and rinse. Shampoo with K-PAK Color Therapy Shampoo, followed by K-PAK Professional Cuticle Sealer and K-PAK Intense Hydrator.
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Styling & Finishing TO PREP HAIR Hair is blow dried using HAIR SHAKE and a round brush – creating the perfect canvas for a voluminous look.
STYLE HAIR SHAKE is re-applied on dry hair, using fingers as tools, to create volume and bring texture without adding any weight. Lastly the style is finished by spraying FLIP TURN from ends to roots. This very dry hair spray can spray from every angle – even upside down – and further supports the already created volume by HAIR SHAKE.
HAIR SHAKE is a spray-to-powder, oil-free, non-sticky texturizer that goes on dry hair to transform all types of hair. Thickens hair and boosts volume withouth weight. Make sure to shake can well before use.
FLIP TURN is a volumizing finishing spray, which sprays from every angle, even upside down! This allows you to inject styles with head-turning volume that lasts throughout the day.
Ceramic circular brushes are used for: • Smoothing, adding volume, creating curls • Short tight bristles: more control • Ceramic barrel: works like a heated roller to add volume and create waves and curls, especially when left to cool before removing from the hair • The smaller the size brush the stronger the curl (more volume) - larger size brush will create a loose bend (less volume)
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Credits Hair and concept by GIANNI SCUMACI JOICO Vision Director Color by GILL BERRY JOICO Creative Artist Alternate Color by CHERRY PETENBRINK JOICO Global Artistic Team Art Direction by JOSEPH SUAREZ JOICO Senior Creative Director Make up by EMMA KOTCH LINDA BURNS Clothes/styling by THEA LEWIS-YATES Interior design by SAMANTHA DUFFY Photography by TOMOKO NAGAKAWA Videography by D&A FILMS Graphic design by CREANZA MEDIA Concept execution by THE JZE SALON I-DEAS TEAM
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Joico® Laboratories, Los Angeles, CA 90042-0308
800.44.JOICO
J68014