A 360 degree concept Dear Stylist, JOICO proudly presents the 3rd generation of Salon I-Deas, a 360 degree concept with many elements to inspire, develop and support those who we believe to be the most important hairdresser of all... the salon hairdresser. As such, the techniques within have been designed with the notion of suitability, versatility and adaptability in mind. Salon I-Deas has been created for all hairdressers at all levels of experience. In addition to providing a solid foundational repertoire it features creative ideas and options to suit all types of clientele. This concept features inspiration and stunning, yet salon-friendly, cutting, coloring and styling techniques; ones that are instantly applicable to your daily salon work. It teaches the concept that cutting and styling techniques applied with speed and ease can still be thought-provoking and head-turning. By learning the craft of understanding and interpreting for individual suitability, our aim is to strengthen all your skills in giving a client something refreshing that suits their lifestyle, hair type, face shape and personality. As Vision Director Gianni Scumaci says: “I believe we are all born artists, the challenge is to remain one�.
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Glossary Head anatomy
Body mapping
Water spray
Terminology
section/area pivot point sectioning line parting
Areas on the head.
Body mapping is an essential
The most misunderstood and
and fundamental element in
abused tool in our craft. We all
understanding the approach to a
have our own unique relationship
haircut. It examines the theory of
with hair and depending on how
balance, length and the control
we treat it we determine the
of weight distribution through
sensitivity of the conversation we
physical self-awareness. Although
have with it.
this simple tool can be one of
Learning to be aware and
the most solid foundations to
controlling the level of dampness
acquire as a beginner, it also is a
in hair as we are working its
useful tool for experienced cutters
texture is a skill set all of its own.
disconnected area
for finding and breaking hidden inherited habits.
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Cutting & Refining TECHNIQUES
SLIDING CONNECTION TECHNIQUE
DEEP POINTING
SHALLOW POINTING
To connect longer areas into shorter
To remove weight from a deeper part of the hair shaft: approach the hair with
Employing the same technique
(previously cut) areas in a loose manner.
the blades of your scissor open and close the blades as you move away.
as deep pointing at a shallower level of the hair shaft.
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TOP SLICING
UNDER SLICING
Slicing the hair from the top of the hair
Employing the same technique as
shaft using the scissors at a shallow
with top slicing to remove weight
angle with the blades slightly opened.
from the underneath surface of the
Use to remove weight from the outer
hair shaft.
EXTERNAL POINTING
surface of the hair shaft.
The result
The result
Depending on the external shape required, use the tips of the scissor blades to remove length from the ends of the hair.
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Inspiration
THE VEIL TECHNIQUE COLORÂ As with the cutting technique the veil in coloring, can be used to either hide or diffuse a stronger base. So also for the color technique it gives the option of softness or strength depending on how the hair is styled.
CUT Travelling through India on fashion editorials, I drew inspiration through the many diverse forms of veils in the culture and the mystery of what lies underneath. The idea of the softness of a veils covering the strength of the person inspired on creating this technique.
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Cutting
Baseline before actual cutting
Before 1 Cut a baseline to the desired length and shape.
Sectioning
1 Take a section from ear to ear over the crown.
2 Take a parting from the crown towards the front hairline as shown.
3 Take a circular section above the O-bone through the back as shown.
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3 1
4
4
3
2
1
4
1
5
Take a parting from behind the front hairline towards the top of the ear, as shown.
Top view of the different cutting areas.
Repeat on the other side.
Cutting Area 1 and 2
1 2
Revisit Cutting Area 2
Please be aware of the different cutting areas.
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1+2 Taking vertical partings as shown, lift the hair parallel to the head and cut to the appropriate length. Starting from the center, working towards the ear use a traveling guideline stopping where the head rounds, then start to over-direct. Over-direct back to retain length and weight behind the ear. Using a travelling guideline starting to overdirect when working towards the ear to retain length and weight in this area. From behind the ear, take a slightly diagonal parting working to the centre back as shown. Repeat on the opposite side. 8
2
2
1+2 Take diagonal partings from behind the ear, graduating the shape. Repeat on the opposite side.
Cutting Area 2
3 Crosscheck area 2.
Cutting Area 3
4 Blow dry the hair using a wrap dry technique.
Retain a square shape as shown.
Refinement
5 Using a variety of shallow and deep pointing, slicing and free-hand techniques, refine the internal and external shape to complete the look.
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Cutting Area 3
3
1
2
Take vertical partings on the top of the head from the crown to the front hairline.
Over-direct as the head rounds to keep a square shape as shown.
Cutting Area 4
4
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1
2
3
Take vertical partings, over-directing to maintain a square shape.
Overview of the shape.
Dry the hair using a wrap dry technique.
Color: The Veil WORKSHOP FORMULA 1 (For Mannequin Head) PRE-LIGHTENING FORMULA 50ml VeroLight Dust-Free Lightening Powder + 100ml Vero K-PAK Color Veroxide 10 volume (3%) BASE FORMULA 15 ml Vero K-PAK Color TPB + 15 ml Vero K-PAK Color TBB + 10 ml Vero K-PAK Color TSB + 40 ml Vero K-PAK Color Veroxide 20 Volume (6%) FOIL FORMULAS 10 ml Color Intensity Soft Pink 10 ml Color Intensity Light Purple ––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
WORKSHOP FORMULA 2 (ALTERNATE) PRE-LIGHTENING FORMULA 50ml Blonde Life Lightening Powder + 100ml Vero K-PAK Color Veroxide 10 volume (3%) BASE FORMULA 30ml Vero K-PAK Color TSB + 30ml Vero K-PAK Color TPB + 20ml Vero K-PAK Color CCV + 60 ml Vero K-PAK Color Veroxide 20 volume (6%) FOIL FORMULAS JOICO Color Intensity Metallic Mauve Quartz *1/2 Color Intensity Clear can be added for a softer shade JOICO Color Intensity Metallic Violet *1/2 Color Intensity Clear can be added for a softer shade
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Coloring
Pre-lightening
Before
1+2
Model had a 2cm regrowth, natural level 6 and highlighted lengths and ends, showing a variety of blond tones between levels 9, 10 and 11. Note the touch of pink color in the fringe area.
Starting at the front removing the previous pink color. Apply lightening formula onto the colored lengths and ends, staying away from the natural root area, and avoiding application onto the lighter areas in the hair. Continue at the top of the head taking fine sections of hair, work towards the hairline applying the lightening formula away from the roots.
EVERY 5 MIN
3+4 Apply lightening formula to the regrowth area, working with accuracy. Taking fine sections, start at the top of the head and work towards the hairline and the nape area. Leave to process checking every 5 minutes until hair has lifted to a level 10 pale blonde/pale yellow. Rinse lightener formula from the hair and lightly shampoo using K-PAK Professional Clarifying Shampoo, followed by K-PAK Professional Cuticle Sealer and K-PAK Deep-Penetrating Reconstructor, towel drying between each step. Ensure hair is dried on a low heat.
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Sectioning
1
2
Divide the hair into 2 areas, taking a section going over the crown, slightly diagonally backwards.
Take a semi-circular section from the front area. Separate this section, as it functions as a veil, blending the technique into the base color.
Color Technique
1
2
Following the shape of the semi circle, take fine weave partings and apply Formula 1, starting 4cm from the root area.
Repeat the same process for another weave section, applying Formula 1, starting 4cm from the root area.
Stagger the foils, to cover the area of the first weaves.
Stagger the foils, to cover the area of the second weaves.
The placement of the technique is very visual and depends on the density of the hair. The semi-circular section functions like a veil and needs to be pre-visualized when sectioned off.
3 Repeat the same process for another weave section, applying Formula 2, starting 4cm from the root area. Stagger the foils, to cover the area of the third weaves.
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20 MIN
4 The amount of weave sections again depend on the density of the hair and the length. Always finish the technique by applying the lightest formula, improving the blend with the base color.
5 Continue with applying the toner formula on the remaining hair, directly from roots to ends. Finish with applying the toner formula into the foils and smudge both - toner formula & formula in the foil - to improve the blending of the 2 shades. Leave the hair to process for 20 minutes.
To avoid staining of blond, first remove the foils and directly rinse and shampoo with K-PAK Color Therapy Shampoo. Proceed with emulsifying the toner and rinse. Shampoo with K-PAK Color Therapy Shampoo, followed by K-PAK Professional Cuticle Sealer and K-PAK Intense Hydrator. 14
Styling & Finishing TO PREP HAIR Mix a small coin-sized amount of JOILOTION with a large pea-sized amount of MATTE GRIP in your hands and massage on mid lengths and ends of wet hair.
STYLE Blow dry using a Denman brush. Spray TEXTURE BOOST on finger tips and massage onto root area to create volume. Continue spraying some additional TEXTURE BOOST directly onto the hair, lifting the hair as you spray and finish the style with fingers.
JOILOTION is your all-time product friend that is great to add to many products for multiple reasons.
It controls difficult to manage hair and adds shine whilst at the same time protecting against environmental stress through its UV-protectants.
MATTE GRIP delivers the ultimate in pliable, natural looking texture and definition with a clean, matte finish. Great to mix with JoiLotion to massage in hair and use as prep to prepare your styling canvas.
TEXTURE BOOST; a true dry-spray-wax that delivers lasting, malleable texure with incredible shine. Amazing for those carefree, tousled styles. Shake can well before use.
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Credits Hair and concept by GIANNI SCUMACI JOICO Vision Director Color by GILL BERRY JOICO Creative Artist Alternate Color by CHERRY PETENBRINK JOICO Global Artistic Team Art Direction by JOSEPH SUAREZ JOICO Senior Creative Director Make up by EMMA KOTCH LINDA BURNS Clothes/styling by THEA LEWIS-YATES Interior design by SAMANTHA DUFFY Photography by TOMOKO NAGAKAWA Videography by D&A FILMS Graphic design by CREANZA MEDIA Concept execution by THE JZE SALON I-DEAS TEAM
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Joico® Laboratories, Los Angeles, CA 90042-0308
800.44.JOICO
J68016