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A 360 degree concept Dear Stylist, JOICO proudly presents the 3rd generation of Salon I-Deas, a 360 degree concept with many elements to inspire, develop and support those who we believe to be the most important hairdresser of all... the salon hairdresser. As such, the techniques within have been designed with the notion of suitability, versatility and adaptability in mind. Salon I-Deas has been created for all hairdressers at all levels of experience. In addition to providing a solid foundational repertoire it features creative ideas and options to suit all types of clientele. This concept features inspiration and stunning, yet salon-friendly, cutting, coloring and styling techniques; ones that are instantly applicable to your daily salon work. It teaches the concept that cutting and styling techniques applied with speed and ease can still be thought-provoking and head-turning. By learning the craft of understanding and interpreting for individual suitability, our aim is to strengthen all your skills in giving a client something refreshing that suits their lifestyle, hair type, face shape and personality. As Vision Director Gianni Scumaci says: “I believe we are all born artists, the challenge is to remain one�.
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Glossary Head anatomy
Body mapping
Water spray
Terminology
section/area pivot point sectioning line parting
Areas on the head.
Body mapping is an essential
The most misunderstood and
and fundamental element in
abused tool in our craft. We all
understanding the approach to a
have our own unique relationship
haircut. It examines the theory of
with hair and depending on how
balance, length and the control
we treat it we determine the
of weight distribution through
sensitivity of the conversation we
physical self-awareness. Although
have with it.
this simple tool can be one of
Learning to be aware and
the most solid foundations to
controlling the level of dampness
acquire as a beginner, it also is a
in hair as we are working its
useful tool for experienced cutters
texture is a skill set all of its own.
disconnected area
for finding and breaking hidden inherited habits.
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Cutting & Refining TECHNIQUES
SLIDING CONNECTION TECHNIQUE
DEEP POINTING
SHALLOW POINTING
To connect longer areas into shorter
To remove weight from a deeper part of the hair shaft: approach the hair with
Employing the same technique
(previously cut) areas in a loose manner.
the blades of your scissor open and close the blades as you move away.
as deep pointing at a shallower level of the hair shaft.
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TOP SLICING
UNDER SLICING
Slicing the hair from the top of the hair
Employing the same technique as
shaft using the scissors at a shallow
with top slicing to remove weight
angle with the blades slightly opened.
from the underneath surface of the
Use to remove weight from the outer
hair shaft.
EXTERNAL POINTING
surface of the hair shaft.
The result
The result
Depending on the external shape required, use the tips of the scissor blades to remove length from the ends of the hair.
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Inspiration
THE HEXY TECHNIQUE CUT Living in London I am always inspired by the ever changing face of the city and drew inspiration in this instance from the Gherkin building, using its glass skin to apply a hexagram star sectioning pattern to remove areas of weight and create a more broken effect.
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COLORÂ The star pattern on top of the head allows the layers of the hair to fall down to the longer lengths. This gave me the inspiration to apply lighter colors to the bottom and middle sections of the hair giving a sense of dimension and movement.
Cutting
Baseline before actual cutting
Before
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Sectioning
1+2 Take a centre parting from the front to the back. Take a diagonal section from just below the crown, until behind the ear on both sides. As the head curves, create a V-section just below the O-bone. Section away the disconnected area.
Cut a baseline creating a square shape.
3 Working from the centre parting behind the front hairline, create a zig-zag parting until behind the ear as shown. Repeat on the other side.
4 Section of the fringe from the corner of each eye-socket as shown. Clip away the disconnected areas as shown. 7
Sectioning overview 3
2
2 1
2
2 1
2 3
5 Note the different cutting areas within the overview.
Cutting Area 1
3
2 1
2
2 3
1 Pivot from the center over-directing to the previous guideline, creating a square shape.
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Overview of the shape.
Wrap dry area 1 once finished and refine.
Cutting Area 2
Cutting Area 3
1+2 Starting from the centre pivot point as shown, pivot throughout the area using a travelling guideline. Repeat on the other side.
1+2 Overview of the shape. Release disconnected area.
Section fringe area into 3 sections as shown.
Cut the fringe using a razor technique. Holding triangular sections using the razor from the top to cut to the desired length. Wrap dry the fringe area.
Release all disconnected areas and wrap dry.
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Color: The Hexy WORKSHOP FORMULA 1 (For Mannequin Head) TOP & MIDDLE BASE FORMULA 65 ml Lumishine Permanent Crème Color 7NC/7.04 + 10 ml Vero K-PAK Color INRR + 75 ml Lumishine Crème Developer 20 Volume (6%) BOTTOM BASE FORMULA 40 ml Lumishine Permanent Crème Color 6NWB/6.07 + 15 ml Lumishine Permanent Crème Color 6RR + 55 ml Lumishine Crème Developer 20 Volume (6%) FOIL FORMULAS 10 ml Duolight Copper + 10 ml Vero K-PAK Color Veroxide 10 Volume (3%) 10 ml Duolight Butterscotch + 10 ml Vero K-PAK Color Veroxide 10 Volume (3%) 10 ml Lumishine Permanent Crème Color XLAA + 10 ml Lumishine Crème Developer 40 Volume (12%) –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
WORKSHOP FORMULA 2 (ALTERNATE) FOR THE HEXY WITH NEW LUMISHINE NRG’S TOP & MIDDLE BASE FORMULA 30 ml LumiShine™ Demi-liquid Color 7NRG + 30 ml LumiShine™ Demi-liquid Color 6NRG + 60 ml LumiShine™ Crème Developer 5 Volume (1.5%) BOTTOM BASE FORMULA 30 ml LumiShine™ Demi-liquid Color 5NRG + 30 ml LumiShine™ Demi-liquid Color 6NRG + 60 ml LumiShine™ Crème Developer 5 Volume (1.5%) FOIL FORMULAS 30 ml Duolight Copper + 30 ml Lumishine Crème Developer 10 Volume (3%) 20 ml Duolight Butterscotch + 20 ml Lumishine Crème Developer 10 Volume (3%) *Add developer if needed for consistency
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Coloring
Sectioning top
3
middle
2
Before
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Model had a natural level 5 and a colored level 6 on the mid-lengths and ends.
Divide the hair into 3 areas; a Top, Middle and Bottom section. Start by sectioning off the top section around the crown, sloping backwards.
Color Technique 3
Adapt the size of the top section to the density of the hair, as the section functions like a veil blending the underneath foiling technique into the look.
bottom
2 Continue with sectioning off the middle section. Starting at the front hairline, just above the ear, following the natural hairline. The size of the section depends on the density of the hair.
Low density = smaller section High density = larger section.
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1 Starting at the bottom section, dividing the section into 2 maybe 3 areas, depending on the density of the hair. Following the hairline, take diagonal slices adapted to the density of the hair. Place the hair in a foil and apply Duolight Copper working from the outside edge to create a V-shape. Blend the Duolight Caramel formula from the middle of the section to the outside edge as shown. Repeat the same process throughout the different areas of section 1. Visually place all foils. Apply bottom base formula to the remaining hair in this section.
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2 Section away the fringe area as shown.
Starting at the sides continue foil technique and formula used in section 1.
Alternatively one could choose to first apply the base color and after apply the foil technique. Each situation demands a certain approach.
Visually place foils leaving out back area. Repeat on opposite side.
3 Release fringe area. Starting at the hairline apply 2 or 3 foils depending on the density using a weave technique. Apply Duolight Copper to the outside edges, then Duolight Caramel to the middle area as shown. 12
4 Take a further 1 or 2 weave foils and apply Duolight Copper to the outside edges and Duolight Butterscotch to the middle area. Apply middle base formula to the remaining hair.
35 MIN
Release area 3 and apply top base formula to the remaining hair. Remove foils from hair, emulsify and rinse. Shampoo with K-PAK Color Therapy Shampoo, followed by K-PAK Color Therapy Conditioner.
Styling & Finishing TO PREP HAIR Courtney has very thick, heavy, dry hair. First start applying 2-3 pumps of K-PAK COLOR THERAPY RESTORATIVE STYLING OIL on mid lengths and ends. Additionally layer a large coin sized amount of K-PAK SMOOTHING BALM from roots to ends and start blow drying.
Great to prep hair; K-PAK SMOOTHING BALM straightens and smoothens whilst protecting against thermal & environmental damage. At the same time it locks in moisture and seals the cuticle.
STYLE Backcomb the roots of the hair on the crown area –using a dressing brush works best. Use IRONCLAD on the backcombed parts and fixate using a flat iron. Spray HUMIDITY BLOCKER generously on all hair using hands to enhance volume and texture. Besides blocking humidity excellently, this product brings additional grip and texture. Style the backcombed areas as desired.
HUMIDITY BLOCKER, your ultimate humidity protection that eliminates frizz and keeps volume and style in tact all day!
IRON CLAD; another thermal protectant that acts as your invisible security spray; dries in a flash without weight or stickiness leaving hair shiny, static-free and protected from heat.
A multi-tasker; K-PAK COLOR THERAPY RESTORATIVE STYLING OIL seals color and nourishes hairs outer cuticle layer whilst also protecting against heat styling and UV rays as it adds shine and reduces frizz & drying time.
Dressing brush Preferably made off fine boar bristle, giving less static and less knotty results when back brushing the hair. Ideal to create volume at the root and to smooth and polish the hair. 13
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Credits Hair and concept by GIANNI SCUMACI JOICO Vision Director Color by GILL BERRY JOICO Creative Artist Alternate Color by CHERRY PETENBRINK JOICO Global Artistic Team Art Direction by JOSEPH SUAREZ JOICO Senior Creative Director Make up by EMMA KOTCH LINDA BURNS Clothes/styling by THEA LEWIS-YATES Interior design by SAMANTHA DUFFY Photography by TOMOKO NAGAKAWA Videography by D&A FILMS Graphic design by CREANZA MEDIA Concept execution by THE JZE SALON I-DEAS TEAM
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Joico® Laboratories, Los Angeles, CA 90042-0308
800.44.JOICO
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