Great Western Adventure 2020 Irish Independent by BeCreative

THE GREAT

WESTERN ADVENTURE Your ultimate guide to visiting Ireland’s northwest, southwest and midwest

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Contents 04 Top tips for your ultimate road trip in the west Prepare yourself for a long drive with these top tips

06 Innovation west

How local businesses in the west have been preparing for Irish tourists post-lockdown

08 A true Irish Western Adventure!

Immerse yourself in the Irish culture with a trip to the Gaeltacht regions

09 A snapshot of the west!

We share the top scenic spots to stop at for incredible picture-taking

10 Hidden highlights along the Wild Atlantic Way

We’ve compiled a list of gems to visit along Ireland’s spectacular coastal route

14 What I love about the west of Ireland

Travel writer Shauna McCrudden and an Irish couple talk about their adventures in the west

15 From Clare to here!

Irish star Aoibhín Garrihy on the upcoming road trips she has planned in her Volkswagen Tiguan Allspace

16 Carry on camping!

The best camping gems along the west coast

18 Time to unwind

Relaxed destinations in the west, that combine a spa stay with beautiful scenery

19 Coffee stop

Some of the best culinary gems to visit on your adventure in the west

20 Walk this way

Park up the car and explore the west of Ireland’s beautiful mountain and forest trails

22 Island-hopping!

Explore the west’s most delightful islands

23 The wild west

Try one of these top outdoor adventure activities in the west

A BeCreative Editorial Production www.becreative.ie EDITOR: Clodagh Dooley DEPUTY EDITOR: Shauna McCrudden ADVERTISING: Terri Byrne, (086) 823 7900 DESIGN: INM Design Studio, Belfast REPRO: Independent Newspapers (Ireland) Limited, 27-32 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 Photos on this page courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

18 July 2020 | Irish Independent

Planning your Great Western Adventure post-lockdown

Sliabh Liag, Co. Donegal

Miriam Kennedy, Galway Girl and Fáilte Ireland’s Head of the Wild Atlantic Way, shares some inspiration for your road trip in the west and tips on staying safe According to Miriam Kennedy, Head of Fáilte Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, there is nowhere in the world like the west of Ireland, “Living in Galway myself, and as Head of the Wild Atlantic Way I am totally biased, but with 2,500km of spectacular coastline, colourful and vibrant towns and villages, salty air, and miles of beaches, there is so much to choose from. “The west coast has always been a much-loved holiday destination and during lockdown, it was clear from the thousands of social media posts, that so many people were dreaming of visiting the west as soon as they could. “And now that restrictions have lifted, it’s the perfect time to visit the Wild Atlantic Way.”

Safe travels Intention to take a break in Ireland among Irish consumers is growing and Fáilte Ireland’s research shows that this is expected to continue as restrictions are lifted. According to their latest consumer sentiment research, 57pc of Irish people are now planning a short trip in Ireland in the next six months. However, safety is a significant concern for people, with visible safety measures and social distancing emerging as strong themes. As a result of this, Fáilte Ireland has recently unveiled a new domestic marketing campaign called ‘Ireland, make a break for it’, and also a new Covid-19 Safety Charter to boost public confidence in taking a holiday in Ireland. Miriam says,“Fáilte Ireland has

introduced the Covid-19 Safety Charter and businesses that sign up to this will be entitled to display the Charter prominently within their premises and online platforms. This demonstrates their commitment to making the health and safety of their guests and staff a priority. So, look out for the Safety Charter Symbol when you’re on your trip.” Ciarán O’Conluain, from Co Dublin, recently drove from Dublin to Connemara in Co Galway for a trip with his family post-lockdown. While he says initially he felt slightly anxious, he felt a peace of mind when they reached their Airbnb. “We stayed in Claddaghduff and the property had removed soft furnishings, such as cushions and blankets. There was a hand sanitiser at the front door too and the place was very clean. We definitely felt more at ease than I would have imagined a few months ago.” Ciarán says it was a memorable five days. “Because there is so much spectacular open space and scenery to discover, it makes it easier to maintain social distancing guidelines. It was like driving through New Zealand. There were lakes and rivers everywhere, and lots of beaches. “I have travelled a lot but I was absolutely blown away by what I saw in Connemara.”

Distance while discovering

Miriam says outdoor seating is not hard to find on the Wild Atlantic Way, “serving up some breathtaking views with your meal.” “Many businesses have been incredibly innovative and there are lots of restaurants who have started superb take-away options if that is your preference. For example, the Lemon Tree in Letterkenny is now doing a clickand-collect menu of wonderful, locally produced food, along with picnic boxes. “The Celtic Ross Hotel in West Cork has opened a new outdoor food truck, serving delicious west Cork fare overlooking the lagoon. Killybegs seafood shack has also reopened and Kinsale has newly pedestrianised streets with wonderful seafood.” If you’re looking to dine in, Miriam recommends The Armada Hotel in Clare and Galway’s Kai, Cava, McDonagh’s and Kirwin’s Lane, all of which have adapted their restaurants to re-open safely. “In Mayo, there’s Ice House, Beleek Castle and the Wyatt Hotel,” she adds. For anyone travelling to the west this year, Miriam would encourage them to stay safe and follow HSE guidelines, and to look out for Fáilte Ireland’s Safety Charter Symbol. “I would also encourage people to check directly with businesses and hotels for opening days and times, as well as deals.” Miriam adds, “This is a region of extreme natural beauty, right here on our doorstep. Whether you choose to return to a favourite place this summer or visit a new one, the Wild Atlantic Way is a great place to escape to with your friends, family, or partner.” ‘Make a break for it’ and visit discoverireland.ie for more inspiration While all information within the supplement is correct at time of print, it is essential to make sure you contact any hotels, attractions, restaurants, or shops for updates before setting forth on your journey and read up on their Covid-19 guidelines online. Be careful and follow HSE guidelines (hse.ie/coronavirus/), but also make sure to create some incredible memories on your Great Western Adventure!

Miriam Kennedy adds that there are plenty of ‘social distanced’ activities people can enjoy in the west as a family, group of friends, or couple. “Where do I start? You can walk the majestic cliffs of Sliabh Liag in Donegal T or the Cliffs of Moher in Clare, w he wes Within ay to tr t cycle greenways in Mayo and this sp avel! Adven ecia t Connemara, or hill walk in of tips ure supplem l Great We e t o n t h , you w stern elp yo the glo one of our five awe-inspiring il u to Don rious west plan a safe l find tons o road f Ire National Parks. Surf the Galwa egal, Leitr im, Ro land – whet trip in y in th her th scomm e nort Limer waves in Strandhill in at’s hw ic o driving k in the Mid est or to Ke n, Mayo, Slig r a o, r r n y Sligo or Lahinch in Clare, , Cork, Atlant outes to th d Southw Clare o est ic W eh or go whale and dolphinto get ay, from th idden gems . From the t r op ting th e best along e t watching in west Cork. The the jou best out of camping exp he Wild rney, w your V erienc olk es e have possibilities are endless and Visit v it all co swagen on olksw vered. a g e more ideas can be found on n.i more a bout t e/202 to dis heir 20 c discoverireland.ie.” 2 offe over rs When it comes to food places,

Dog’s Bay Beach, Co Galway

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Top tips for your ultimate road trip in the west Prepare yourself for your long drive with these top tips to help you plan your best road trip ever! The Wild Atlantic Way is the longest defined coastal touring route in the world. And if done right, your road trip in the west of Ireland can be one of the best trips of your life! But poor planning can take what should be a fun experience to a completely stressed out event. So, what can you do to guarantee your great western adventure is one you will remember forever, for all the right reasons?

Plan your route in advance Half the fun of a road trip is the driving itself, but it’s not so much fun if you keep turning down country lanes and realise you have been going in circles. If planning a four to six-hour trip along the west coast, it is beneficial for you to map out your route before you even head out. There shouldn’t be too much guesswork on your drive. If you are lost and driving around with no direction, it means your car will have to use more fuel, which in turn costs more money, you waste valuable time and it can lead to producing more emissions. Plan your route in stages and as soon as you establish exactly where you’re heading, try to find the quickest way to get there. On a longer trip, always plan to take a break every couple of hours or every 100 miles. Taking a break, stretching your body, and relaxing your eyes will make you a more alert and safer driver.

Give your car a check-up Before leaving on any long road trip, either bring your car to an approved authorised repairer to make sure everything is okay, or if you know what to look for, give it a check-up yourself. Ger Boyle, Head of Technical Service & Customer Care at Volkswagen Group Ireland says, “Before any long journey, check that all light bulbs are functioning and replace any defective bulbs. Ensure windows and mirrors are clean and free from obstruction, providing good visibility.” When checking tyres, make sure all four

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tyres are free from any defects including bulges, cracks, cuts, and tears. Make sure they are inflated to the correct pressure and are of a minimum legal tread depth of 1.6mm for passenger vehicles. “It’s also important to double-check your car’s fluids,” says Ger. “Lift the bonnet and check all engine fluid levels or consult the vehicle’s infotainment system for engine fluid levels. Engine fluid levels should be between the indicated minimum and maximum marks. “Check underneath your vehicle for signs of fluid leaks, such as oil or coolant. Make sure your windscreen washer reservoir has sufficient levels, that the jets are aimed correctly and that no engine warning lights are showing. If so, consult an authorised approved repairer prior to your journey.”

Keep safe You’re on holiday, but that doesn’t mean you have to drive like there is no tomorrow! Even though you are in vacation mode, there is no need to be lackadaisical when it comes to road safety. Keep to the speed limits (which also keeps down unnecessary fuel wastage) and keep an eye on other road users. Remember, you are supposed to be relaxing! Ger Boyle says, “Safety should always be your top concern. Check that seat belts are in their correct position and are working correctly. Ensure that there are no loose materials in the footwells or in the rear of the vehicle that could become dislodged. And ensure that an adequate number of high-visibility vests and triangles are readily accessible for you and your passengers if required.” Before setting off, adjust the seat height to keep your hips slightly higher than your knees. According to the RSA handbook, you should keep your hands to the nine and three-hand position on the steering wheel and adjust your mirrors, so you can see out of them without

craning your neck. You will be thankful you thought of all these aspects when you are in the middle of your road trip.

Pack correctly Your vehicle’s DGVW (Design Gross Vehicle Weight) should be listed in your car’s manual. This is important to figure out just how much weight your car can hold. If you have a family of five on the trip, or if you if you require a lot of luggage, you need to try to keep your baggage to the minimum. Don’t overload your car, as this can be bad for gas mileage, tyres, and safety. If you are packing any heavy equipment such as bikes, surfboards, or other activity-related items, try to keep the heavier items in the car’s centre and always strap down anything on top carefully. If you have to come to a sudden stop at any time, you don’t want any objects becoming loose and creating projectiles! And always check that your insurance has you covered.

Use technology We are living in an age of digital technology and it can help make a road trip so much easier. Use your smartphone or tablet to keep you on track – use Google Maps to stay on your route. But never use it when driving! Either have a passenger guide you or use a handy phone holder which you can install on your dashboard. There are plenty of other road trip apps, such as Ireland Travel Guide, to help you find sights and things to do on your way. The AA app can be used to report a breakdown and track traffic. You could use Camping Ireland to help you find campsites. Load up your tablet with movies and shows to keep the kids happy on the trip too and don’t forget your music playlist! No road trip is memorable without the tunes playing!

Rosguill Peninsula Photo Credit: © Chris Hill Photographic Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

Five scenic Irish drives in the west Now you know how to make your journey the best it can be, why not try out these five incredible Irish drives in the west of Ireland?

Yeats Country, Co Sligo

“The wind has bundled up the clouds high over Knocknarea” - WB Yeats. You have the opportunity to witness the spectacular sights which inspired one of Ireland’s most enduring poets, WB Yeats. His home in Co Sligo, with its natural wonders and stunning scenery, influenced some of his most famous

Yeats Statue, Sligo Town Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

Irish Independent | 18 July 2020

The Burren Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

need to stop the car to get photos of the gothiclooking Classiebawn Castle!

The Atlantic Drive, Co Donegal

poetry. Drive the 42km tour from Innisfree to Lissadell and onto Drumcliff, where the great poet is buried. Stop the drive and walk through Sligo Abbey, which appears in two stories by Yeats, go surfing at Strandhill Beach, and walk Knocknarea Mountain whose beauty and legends fascinated the poet. Drive along the coastal road at Mullaghmore, which is so spectacular, you will

The point of land that stretches out into the Atlantic between the bays of Sheephaven and Mulroy is known as the Rosguill Peninsula and offers some of the most scenic views on the Wild Atlantic Way. This drive is quite short at just 12km, but it doesn’t mean it’s any less exceptional. Stop off at Dunfanaghy, the seaside village near a sandy beach that offers windsurfing and canoeing. Then drive past the sculpted rocks at Crohy Head, the fiery headland known as Bloody Foreland and the seascapes around Horn Head and Rosguill.

Kilfenora, Lisdoonvarna, Fanore, and Black Head. Starting in Kilfenora, a place famed for its céilí band, it winds its way through Lisdoonvarna and up the coast to Black Head to really show off the coast. Stop at Fanore Beach and the stunning Flaggy Shore and take in the fresh Atlantic air and spectacular landscape. Check out the charming village of Ballyvaughan on the coast and explore the Aillwee Caves located right in the heart of the Burren.

4Kerry

Slea Head Drive, Dingle Peninsula, Co

This 47km circular touring route takes you on a journey through historic sites, Irish-speaking villages, Hollywood film locations, and unrivalled views of the Blasket Islands and Skellig Islands. The most westerly part of the mainland, it boasts several beaches, so why not stop off and have a barefoot walk on Coumeenoole Strand? Try to drive the route slowly over a few hours or even

Burren Beauty Drive, Co Clare

This 68km drive is the perfect way to take in the unique landscape of the Burren with its bare, pale grey limestone and rare flora and fauna, making it seem like a rock garden. The Burren Beauty Drive takes in Ballyvaughan, Carran,

Walk on Sheep’s Head Peninsula, Co Cork Photo Credit: © George Karbus Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

Coumeenoole Beach, Slea Head Photo Credit: © Chris Hill Photographic Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

days if possible, as there are so many interesting stops and detours along the way.

Sheep’s Head Peninsula, Co Cork

This 70km drive starts from Bantry town in West Cork and loops around the Sheep’s Head Peninsula, which is a narrow finger of land protruding into the wild Atlantic Ocean in-between the larger Beara Peninsula and Mizen Peninsula. The drive takes in the entire peninsula, where you get fantastic views of the Atlantic. You will find you will need to stop again and again to take it all in! Not least to take a walk down to the Sheep’s Head Lighthouse, in a special area of conservation. So what are you waiting for? As Yeats once said, “Come dance with me in Ireland.”

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Dunquin Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

A true Irish Western Adventure! Looking to really immerse yourself in the Irish culture and explore your roots? Then why not take a journey to the Gaeltacht regions? “An té a bhíónn siúlach, bíonn scéalach” “He who travels has stories to tell.” - Old Irish proverb The Irish language is alive and well in Ireland and its voice has never been clearer than on the west coast of Ireland. The 2016 Census showed that 1.76 million people in the country can speak as Gaeilge, but only 73,803 people said they speak it on a daily basis (outside of school). This equates to around 1.7pc of the population. The highest percentages of people in Ireland who speak Irish are in the west of Ireland, namely in counties Galway, Clare, Cork, Donegal, Kerry, and Mayo. So, if you’re planning a visit to the west, why not embrace the mother tongue and try your hand at learning some of this rich and vital history? “Irish is one of the oldest living languages in the world, possibly the oldest,” says Meadbh Seoighe, Tourism Enterprise Executive with Údarás na Gaeltachta. “It’s a beautiful musical language and part of loving and enjoying the language is the music and the SeanNós dance that is celebrated across the entire Gaeltacht.

Meadbh Seoighe and her daughter at Sliabh Liag

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“It is so important for the language to survive, and to do this, everyone must take an interest, not just those in the Gaeltacht.” The term ‘Gaeltacht’ refers individually and collectively to the primarily Irishspeaking regions, first officially recognised in the 1920s as part of a national revival of interest in the Irish language. With schools, activities, and entertainment in the regions, there is great craic to be had! The overall objective of Údarás na Gaeltachta is to ensure that Irish remains the main communal language of the Gaeltacht and is passed on to future generations. They do this by working with communities and supporting enterprise development.

The appeal of the Gaeltacht Meadbh says, “People have become more interested in their native language. Sean-Nós dancing and singing (a style of dance and song dating back hundreds of years, handed down from generation to generation) are alive and well in these areas and have become popular around the country. I think in the last few years there has been a welcome increase, mainly due to local parent groups, and musicians and dancers providing classes for young people, competitions, and a forum for them to perform.” Then there are the Gaeltacht Irish colleges that many Irish teenagers attend in the summertime, but are closed for the 2020 summer due to Covid-19. But there are also courses for families, beginners, and improvers still ongoing. Some of the courses operating now include Oideas Gael in Co Donegal (oideas-gael.com). This is operating from August 8th and you can spend a few days or a few weeks with classes in the morning and activities in the afternoon. There is Coláiste Naomh Eanna

Connemara Pub Tour Island Picnic (colaistenaomheanna.ie) which runs online courses from Spiddal, Co Galway, and in Co Kerry, the Co-operative near Mount Brandon runs courses and fun activities for children (cflt.ie). “If you travel to any of the Gaeltacht areas, just remember that people there are happy to talk to you,” says Meadbh. “They’re used to all the students that attend Irish colleges, but you have to be brave and go for it! Let them know you’re learning and want to practice. “I love how, in a global village where we can have the same shops on Grafton Street, Oxford Street or 5th Avenue, and everyone carries the same phone, we have a unique identity that’s entirely our own. And I get a great kick out of speaking Irish with my five-year-old daughter and hearing her translate for those who don’t understand. I feel very privileged to be able to speak Irish every day.” If you are thinking of travelling to the Gaeltacht areas for learning or just for some fun and immersion into your own culture, why not try out some of the below ideas?

Explore Connemara One of the locals in the Connemara Gaeltacht, Pádraig Ó Raighne, organises bespoke trips for visitors to experience Connemara and the Aran Islands. Meet and greet at Ireland’s only archipelago connected by bridges with a guided coastal or mountain walk followed by a picnic lunch at a deserted beach. Or enjoy a Sean-Nós dancing or singing workshop, a 60-minute family magic show or a sailing trip on a Galway Hooker. Experience a range of activities, from pub tours to cultural and heritage demonstrations, from local food producer visits to an up-close and personal experience of the Aran Islands. Under restrictions, these tours will reopen from the end of July and will be tailored for small families and groups of friends. Or, head out to Spiddal, (an Spidéal), a pretty seaside village set in the Gaeltacht district and the setting for the TG4 soap, Ros na Rún. While here, you will pass the two national Irish language broadcasters, TG4 and Raidió na Gaeltachta on the way. Meadbh says, “Ireland’s only archipelago connected by bridge to the mainland is off the Connemara coast, Ceantar na

nOileán whose main islands are Leitir Móir, Garmna, and Leitir Mealláin. The area is rich in Irish language and culture. I have often taken friends on coastal or mountain walks, followed by a picnic lunch at a deserted beach there. Ireland’s only Seaweed Museum is located on Leitir Mealláin (Lettermullen) and they can organise a picnic, kayaking, or Sean-Nós dancing classes.” Visit connemarapubtours.com and theseaweedcentre.com

Belmullet This little coastal town in Co Mayo has one of the greatest historical sites and stunning bays on the coast. There are a few beaches in Co Mayo, but Blacksod Bay is one of the most beautiful in any weather. This bay was the start of many Irish emigrants’ travels to America in the 1800s. And this year, the local community co-op is opening the small lighthouse on the bay to the public for the first time. This is the start of developing a great visitor experience that will incorporate the sea life, birdwatching, Irish language, and the history of the area. Try the Cross-Beach Loop Walk on the sandy beach of Cross Common. You can see the migrant barnacle geese and grey geese grazing the sandy fields and dunes around Cross Lough. As you walk along the beach, you get stunning views of Co Mayo’s famous island, Inishglora, which is steeped in Irish mythology. Legend has it that the Children of Lír, who were cursed to turn into swans, are buried on this island after they finally broke their curse.

Dingle Dingle in Co Kerry is hard to beat as a town with many great Irish pubs, which have lots of Sean-Nós singing and dancing on special nights. And although the Dingle Tradfest in September is not going ahead this year, it will hopefully be back next year to celebrate traditional Irish singing, music, and dancing. The Blasket Centre in Dunchaoin (Dunquin) is a fascinating visit too as it honours the unique community who lived on the remote Blasket Islands until their evacuation in 1953 due to extreme weather. The Centre tells the story of traditional island life, and the community’s struggle for existence, their language, and culture. The Centre is open seven days a week from 10am to 6pm. Visit blasket.ie

Irish Independent | 18 July 2020

Getting the best shot For the best photo-taking opportunity, go on a very clear day and climb to one of the two summits. This is great for those with a moderate level of fitness, but the route itself is pretty easy to navigate. Here you could take a truly Insta-worthy photo of the skyline of the wilderness of the Derryveagh Mountains, the Poisoned Glen and the Aran Islands in the distance – three shots in one!

A snapshot of the west Getting a good Instagram image is an essential part of any road trip. We share the top scenic spots to stop at for incredible picture-taking and capturing the perfect pose beaches, and just a boat ride away is the Skellig islands, famous for appearing in ‘The Last Jedi’. The stunningly Irish surroundings have proven popular with movie executives too with 1981’s Excalibur, 1990’s The Field, and 1992’s Far and Away with Tom Cruise and Nicole Kidman being filmed here.

Cliffs of Moher Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

Cliffs of Moher, Co Clare

This is the most common snap-happy location, with one million visitors every year! But when in the west, everyone has to have at least one image of these dramatic cliffs. With a 700-foot drop along the Wild Atlantic Way, these cliffs are popular for a reason. On a clear day, the views from the cliffs are tremendous, with the Aran Islands looking like they are carved on the waters of the bay. Just wander along the 14km coastal walk since there are so many different vantage points to enjoy. Walk along the top of the cliffs and you will see the amazing rock formation, Hag’s Head, and get the classic shot of O’Brien’s Tower.

Getting the best shot As the busiest times are between 11am and 4pm, you will want to avoid the more packed areas to maintain social distancing. Any time before or after this will help you get a clearer image too, without anyone else featuring in the background. But with a due-west exposure, sunset is the best time to visit to get that perfect shot with no filters required!

Dingle, Co Kerry

Big 7 Travel, one of the world’s leading travel companies, voted Co Kerry as the 6th most Instagrammable spot on the entire continent of Europe! And if you pop on down to the postcard-perfect town of Dingle, you can see why. The seaside village has rugged scenery and sandy

18 July 2020 | Irish Independent

Dingle Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

When in Dingle, you should definitely take a photo with one of the long-time residents of the seaside town, Fungie the Dolphin! He just LOVES to have his photo taken and knows exactly when to strike a pose. He even entered The Guinness Book of World Records for being the longest staying wild dolphin in any one area in the world. Book a place on a Dingle boat tour (dingleboattours.com) during the daytime and take a snap of Fungie performing tricks in the glistening water.

Mount Errigal, Co Donegal The 751-metre tall mountain near Gweedore in Letterkenny, Donegal is a breath-taking sight! As it is the tallest peak of the Derryveagh mountains, you are sure to get a dramatic image no matter what time of year you go. You may be able to snap a pic of snow plumes on its summit, the sun beaming down the slopes as you climb or, if you’re really lucky, watch the winter dance of the Northern Lights behind the mountain’s outline!

Getting the best shot As the ship disintegrates more each year and has even moved slightly from its position, it is best to get there now in the sun and take a snap. Or wait until it’s rainy and take a shot in the same direction as the Father Ted credits!

COMPETITION TIME! VOLKSWAGEN SNAPSHOT CONTEST RETURNS IN SUPPORT OF ALONE

Lough Inagh Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

Lough Inagh, Connemara, Co Galway

Some of the most beautiful areas of the west of Ireland are tucked away between stunning lands and mountain views. Lough Inagh, a glacial lake located in the Inagh Valley, is nestled between the Maumturk Mountains and The Twelve Ben Mountains in the heart of Connemara. The lake is quite popular with fishermen so boats are available to take out onto the lake. This way you can get a picture right in the middle of the valley surrounded by sparkling clear waters and high mountains.

Getting the best shot Getting the best shot

Inis Oirr; Aran Islands Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

The slopes of the mountain rise up from the valley which makes several small streams flow into the lake at once, creating a series of waterfalls. Try going at a time when the moody, dark skies reflect off the lake’s waters (which in Ireland could be anytime when it’s raining!). Or for a totally unique Insta Story, visit the lake when it’s icy cold and catch the iced-up waterfalls frozen in time.

5Islands, Co Galway

The shipwreck of Inis Oírr, Aran

The rusted wreck of the ship MV Plassy on Inis Oírr is a sight you need to see to check off your bucket list. The irony is that this enormous shipwreck ended up on the smallest island off the west coast, resting on Finnis Rock. It has been a feature of the island for sixty years ever since the ship had trouble and the islanders rescued the crew on a stormy night. It measures 53m in length and weighs close to 600 tonnes and the ship is remarkably familiar to Irish people, as it is featured in the opening credits of Father Ted!

Volkswagen Ireland’s popular Snapshot photo contest is returning for the 4th consecutive year! The Instagram photo competition offers great prizes to the winners across several categories. 12 jury-selected entries in the #Volkswagen category will feature in the Snapshot 2021 Calendar. All proceeds of the sale of the Calendar go to the charity, ALONE. ALONE raises awareness about the challenges and issues that older people face, as they age. This charity is increasingly more important in the current climate of Covid-19 as older people are cautious about leaving their homes and visiting friends and family. The Snapshot contest encourages photography enthusiasts to use their creativity and upload photographs to Instagram using the #VWSnapshot hashtag along with their chosen category hashtag. This year’s categories are #Smartphone, #Nighttime, #Animals, #Garden, #Water, and #Volkswagen. Prizes include: Canon EOS 90D DSLR camera - for the #Volkswagen category winner DJI Osmo Pocket Camera - for the #Smartphone category winner GoPro with accessories - for the #Water category winner AirPods Pro - for the #Animals category winner Fitbit VERSA smartwatches - for the 12 winners of the Volkswagen 2021 calendar Blue Book voucher - for the #Nighttime category winner Weber BBQ and pizza stone - for the #Garden category winner To enter just upload your favourite photo to Instagram and include the hashtag #VWSnapshot along with the category hashtag of your choice by August 31st. Check out volkswagen.ie/snapshot for more details. So what are you waiting for? Get snapping!

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The Lost Valley. Photo by Mark Conroy

Hidden highlights along the Wild Atlantic Way

We’ve compiled a list of gems to visit along Ireland’s spectacular coastal route Soaring cliffs, buzzing towns, beautiful beaches, and spectacular views – one could describe the Wild Atlantic Way as an epic journey of discovery, there’s much to see and do. In fact, the Wild Atlantic Way, which stretches 2,500km (1,600 miles) from the Inishowen Peninsula in Co Donegal down to the picturesque town of Kinsale in Co Cork, is one of the longest defined coastal routes in the world. The route is longer than California’s Pacific Coast Highway or South Africa’s Garden Route. And it’s right on our doorstep! As restrictions allow us to travel further from our home counties in Ireland, now is the perfect time to embark on an adventure along the Wild Atlantic Way and discover what the route has to offer. Being in your own car and stopping off at various sites along the way when they don’t look too busy, means you can maintain social distancing. Plus, many businesses along the route have committed to a Covid-19 Safety Charter. This involves a green-and-white safety symbol displayed on their websites and front windows which signal to you that a business is following the necessary safety guidelines, so you can have peace of mind on your trip. However, if you’re eager to visit some lesser-known sights, not just to avoid the crowds, but also to explore places you’ve never seen before (or never knew existed in Ireland), then check out this list we have put together – and truly embrace the Wild Atlantic Way!

The Lost Valley, Co Mayo Today, the Lost Valley of Uggool in Louisburgh, Co Mayo is an active working farm, but the pristine, unspoiled landscape also has a heartbreaking history, being associated with The Great Irish Famine. The Lost Valley has remained largely untouched since villagers were evicted and driven out of the area in the mid-1800s. So, on a visit to the Lost Valley, you’ll witness the ruined famine village, see two-centuries-old potato ridges that have been undisturbed, all shown to you by one of the families that were evicted from

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their house back in the famine, the Bourke family. The seventh generation of the Bourke family owns and farms the Lost Valley today, and you can only visit the Lost Valley by guided tour. But it’s the best way to fully immerse yourself in the history of the landscape – you’ll discover some fascinating stories from owners Gerard and Maureen Bourke and see outstanding scenery along the way. The tour takes about three hours and costs €20 for an adult ticket, €10 for a child, and €50 for a family ticket (two adults and up to three children under 15). Pets are not allowed. Gerard says, “Pre-booking a tour a few days in advance continues to be essential, as it helps us form viable groups and guarantee a tour on the day. Since our tour is conducted in the great outdoors, we are confident that we can continue to provide a safe, family-friendly adventure that is suitable for young and old. “The Lost Valley provides an unforgettable immersive experience in Ireland that enriches all ages.” Visit thelostvalley.ie

Caves of Kesh, Co Sligo The Caves of Kesh, also known as the Keash Caves or the Keshcorran Caves, are a series of limestone caves located halfway up the Keshcorran mountain, near the village of Keash in Co Sligo. It shouldn’t take more than 40 minutes to walk up the steep mountain – it is manageable but, of course, it’s important to wear walking shoes with a decent grip and take your time. There are 16 chambers, some of which interconnect, offering breathtaking views across the Sligo countryside – a perfect place to watch the sun set. There have also been many archaeological

Caves of Keash Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

discoveries within the caves and legend has it that famous king Cormac Mac Airt was born at a well beneath the caves. As a sleeping baby, he was carried by a wolf to its den, now known as Cormac’s Cave, which is the largest of the series. If you’re visiting the Caves of Kesh, there’s a small car park near the trailhead, but you could park in the village itself and walk from there either.

Lacken Strand, Co Mayo Lacken Strand, nestled along the North Mayo coastline between the towns of Killala and Ballycastle, looks out onto the Atlantic and offers great views of the north-west region of Ireland. It’s the perfect place to visit to get away from the more crowded, well-known beaches. As well as being popular for relaxing strolls and water sports, Lacken has a link to some interesting history. Lacken has two small harbours, one at Rathlacken in Lacken Bay and the second at Kilcummin in Killala Bay. Kilcummin was where some of the French army, under General Humbert, landed for the Battle of Killala in 1798, a battle between forces of the British Crown and a combined force of Irish rebels and some French troops.

Clare Island Lighthouse. Photo by John O’Toole.

5 UNIQUE PLACES TO STAY NEAR THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY Accommodation with a difference!

Clare Island Lighthouse, Co Mayo

Based near Clew Bay in Co Mayo, Clare Island Lighthouse was once a safe haven for sailors. The beautiful boutique accommodation has enviable ocean views across Achill, Westport, and beyond. The lighthouse will reopen on 22nd July and will operate from Wednesday to Sunday (minimum two-night stay). Visit clareislandlighthouse.com

Donegal Thatched Cottages

Looking to stay right by a beachfront? Donegal Thatched Cottages offer 10 traditional Irish cottages for rent as holiday homes on Cruit Island, by the Atlantic Ocean. Stroll along the sea by day and warm your toes at a cosy fire by night – this is perfect for a romantic getaway or simply just to get away from it all! Visit donegalthatchedcottages.com

3Co Leitrim

Traditional Irish Music School,

This is one for budding musicians. Traditional Irish Music School in Drumkeeran, Co Leitrim combines music lessons on all Irish traditional instruments with homestay or self-catering accommodation, activities, excursions, and more. A real cultural holiday that you could combine with a trip along the Wild Atlantic Way. Limited availability. For more information, visit traditionalirishmusicschool.com

Gregans Castle Hotel, Co Clare

Eyeries, Beara Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

Eyeries, Co Cork Located on the Beara Peninsula in Co Cork, Eyeries is a colourful, picture-perfect village. The village overlooks Coulagh Bay and is surrounded by mountains so it’s ideal for a remote escape, but there’s also plenty to do and explore around the area. There are some great shops, cafes, bars, and places to stay in the village, as well as two looped walking trails called Creha Quay and Coastguard Station looped

Gregans Castle Hotel is ideally situated in the heart of the Burren, Co Clare. The family-owned, 18th-century manor house has been welcoming guests since the 1940s and has long been a source of inspiration for its visitors. Guests have included Irish poet Seamus Heaney and The Lord of the Rings author, JRR Tolkien. Visit gregans.ie

Hobbit Pod, Co Donegal Speaking of JRR Tolkien, you can actually rent a ‘Hobbit-Hole’ style pod called the ‘Cropod’, based in the isolated Donegal countryside in Glencolumbkille. The pod has everything you need – a double bed, kitchen, and bathroom – and is close-by a secluded beach. While dates are all booked up for this summer, there are still some left for the remainder of 2020 at the time of print but regardless, this is definitely something to add to your bucket list for next summer. Check this out on Airbnb.ie

Irish Independent | 18 July 2020

walks. Slieve Miskish Mountains are approximately a 25-minute drive away if you want to take a day trip and go hiking. And, fun fact, Eyeries is so beautiful that the village has even been used as a backdrop for a number of films including The Purple Taxi starring the well-known American dancer, singer and actor, Fred Astaire.

The Sky Road, Co Galway Based in the Connemara region, the Sky Road in Co Galway is filled with stunning scenery along the route. The 20km loop route is uphill and well-signposted from Clifden town, providing amazing views overlooking Clifden Bay, the 12 Bens, Streamstown Bay, Inishturk and Turbot Island. There is a car park and viewing area at the highest point of the route, so you can get out and take some snaps. There are also a host of quiet, sandy beaches within the Clifden area, such as Eyrephort Beach.

Kilkee Cliffs, Co Clare Many people probably best associate Co Clare with the famous Cliffs of Moher, and while this attraction is certainly worth visiting, it is a hub for tourists. But did you know that these aren’t the only majestic cliffs Clare has to offer? Escape the Cliffs of Moher crowds and visit the Kilkee Cliffs instead. Park up the car and take on the Kilkee

Bromore Cliffs Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

Kilkee Cliffs Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

Bromore Cliffs, Co Kerry Cliff Walk, along the rugged stretch of viewpoint across the Atlantic Ocean. coastline, starting from the Diamond There’s a Horn Head Drive you can follow, Rocks Café at Pollock Holes car park just which starts in Dunfanaghy, and you’re outside Kilkee Town. You can choose from treated to panoramic views. But do park a 5km brisk walk or do the slightly more up the car in the small car park and challenging, but manageable, 8km looped wander down one of the trodden paths – walk which takes roughly two-three hours. one of which leads to a Signal Tower built Along the way, you’ll see unmissable during the Napoleonic Wars – to take in sights like the Pollock Holes, which is the views and a well-known swimming area for locals get some Keep (but make sure to check tide times) pictures. track and Intrinsic Bay, named after a o f y journ The W ey! our ship from Liverpool which sank regio ild Atlant Coast ns, Northe ic Way enc after it was blown into a bay o Mayo (Donegal a rn Headlan mpasses s n ), d near Bishops Island in Kilkee Penin the Cliff C d Sligo), th s (Co Done ix distinct sulas oast (G e Bay gal) th Y (C C ou mig e Surf alway oast (C o Ker in 1836. , r h

If you’re travelling near the popular seaside resort town of Ballybunion in Co Kerry this summer or beyond, venture to the enchanting Bromore Cliffs a five-minute drive away. The cliffs can be accessed through the farm of Michael Flahive, a local landowner, for a small parking fee. Michael can share his stories about the cliffs, the wildlife, and shipwrecks, and the 180-foot cliffs themselves, which have been sculpted by nature for thousands of years, are also a sight to behold. In the ocean below, you might even spot the occasional Bottlenose Dolphin or Atlantic Grey Seals. Visit bromorecliffs.com

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Peninsula, Horn Head is equally as beautiful, offering an exceptional

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Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

SPONSORED

Mountain Landscape in Achill, Great Western Greenway trail

What I love about the west of Ireland Travel writer Shauna McCrudden talks about her adventures in the west “At least once a year, go someplace you’ve never been before” – Dalai Lama When in the west, you do things you never usually do. Maybe it’s the mountain air or coastal breeze, but whatever it is, you feel you want to have an adventure! So, when my friends and I decided to travel to Co Mayo in August 2018, I knew I was in for a wild time. My four friends and I packed up the car and travelled across the country to Westport from Dublin on a Friday. We

View of Westport house, Co Mayo

Shauna (far right) and friends cycling Greenway checked into the 4-Star Croagh Patrick Hostel in Murrisk which is located right at the foot of Croagh Patrick, where the mountain looms large in the background. It has a shared lounge, a shared kitchen where you can eat what you want, and a private bathroom with a shower and a hairdryer. The hostel was perfect for us as it is popular with hikers and cyclists, and in fact, we even met lots of people competing in triathlon challenges, so we knew we were in the right place. Our plan was to cycle the 42km Great Western Greenway, the longest off-road walking and cycling trail in Ireland. We started our Saturday by driving to the Clew Bay Bike Hire shop to hire our bikes. They provide a shuttle service with scheduled pick-up and drop-offs along the Greenway, so you can choose how far you want to cycle. We decided to get dropped off at Achill in the morning and cycle our

Planning a new adventure When Eileen and Malachy Smyth from Co Louth were planning their summer holiday in 2019, they chose to forego their usual trip to Greece, and instead explore their home country “Malachy is recently retired so he had a newfound lust for travel!” says Eileen, who has been married to Malachy for 34 years. “We have had trips to a few beaches around the country and around the north with our son and daughter in the past. But we had never really seen what the west had to offer.”

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As they both love WB Yeats, they decided to travel to Co Sligo and discover the areas which inspired his poetry. They thought a driving tour of Yeats Country would suit them, which took them from Sligo town to Rosses Point, Drumcliffe, Benbulben, Lough Gill, Strandhill, and back again. Eileen says, “It was amazing to see the land that inspired Yeats. Benbulben mountain is so imposing. We got to see the forests on the shores of Lough Gill, and of course, we stopped in so many places to have picnics and just enjoy the peaceful surroundings. We were lucky we got such lovely weather! “We got to cruise on the actual Lake Isle of Innisfree, the place where Yeats wrote my favourite poem. But I think it was visiting Drumcliffe cemetery, where Yeats is buried, which affected me most. His gravestone is even poetic as it says, “Cast a cold eye on Life, on Death. Horseman pass by.”

way back to Westport, as it is an easier course and more downhill. And off we went to start our journey with our rain jackets, small backpacks with water and a little food, sunscreen and our cycling gear including padded shorts, which I found to be very useful indeed! It is easier to break up the cycling route by taking the 12km Achill to Mulranny route and stopping for a break, then doing the longest 18km Mulranny to Newport section before stopping for lunch at the Riverside Café. After resting, we then ended the route with the 12km Newport to Achill journey. It is mostly off-road, although there is a section on a main road which was scary for us total beginners, but wasn’t difficult to manoeuvre. The route takes most people around five hours

Shauna at Westport

But the couple didn’t just stop in Sligo, as they also wanted an adventure while in the west. They drove from Sligo to Rossaveel where they caught a ferry to the Aran Islands. “We had always wanted to visit the famous Aran Islands and got to stop off at Inis Mór. We knew we could do a walking route on the island as a friend of ours had done it before. The walk wasn’t strenuous, but I’m very glad I brought my comfortable walking shoes! Dún Aonghasa was an amazing place to visit. It’s a prehistoric hill fort built high up on a cliff. I have never been to the Cliffs of Moher, but I felt like this was as good as that!”

Aran Islands

to complete, but it took us from around 9.30am to 6pm to finish! This is due to a combination of enjoying each other’s company, taking too many breaks to look around us at the stunning scenery and of course, our utter lack of fitness! The length it took us informed the rest of our trip as the next day, despite our plan being to climb Croagh Patrick, we decided we were sore enough without having to climb a mountain too! A word of warning to any beginners! Instead, we took our creaking bodies off to Westport House for a relaxing day. The 18th century home has so much history that its walls can barely contain all of it. There is a superb parkland with a lake, gardens, and magnificent views overlooking Clew Bay. We even took a swan pedalo boat out on the lake to get a better view of it all. Plus, we located our inner children and had fun on the Pirate Adventure Park right on the front lawn with water rides and swings! Westport was so much fun and inspired a desire to continue our cycling holidays. This year, we are planning on cycling a part of the Ring of Kerry. Let’s hope we can get those cycling shorts on after lockdown!

Dún Aonghasa “We also hiked from Kilronan Village to the Black Fort which was only about 30 minutes long. And of course, we bought a couple of Aran sweaters, because when in the Aran Islands, do what the Islanders do!” The couple travelled back on the ferry and drove home the next morning, but Eileen says she could have stayed in the west far longer. “If we had a bit more time, I would have done a big drive throughout the west and stopped off at all the big sites. We’re planning a trip to Donegal to visit some family later this summer, so who knows? Maybe we’ll hop into the car and drive down to Kerry too!”

Irish Independent | 18 July 2020

Loop Head. Photo courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

Aoibhín Garrihy

From Clare to here! Actor and Dancing with the Stars finalist, Aoibhín Garrihy talks to Clodagh Dooley about how fortunate she felt to be spending lockdown in beautiful Clare and the upcoming road trips she has planned in her Volkswagen Tiguan Allspace! If you follow former Fair City actress Aoibhín Garrihy on Instagram (@aoibhingarrihy), you will see how much she loves her hometown of Clare – she even has a highlights reel on her account called ‘Love Clare’! “It’s true, I absolutely love living in Clare!” says Aoibhín, who moved from Dublin to Clare in 2019 and lives there with her husband John Burke, owner of the Armada Hotel in Doolin, and daughters Hanorah and Líobhan. “There is so much to see, do and explore. I’m particularly passionate about the sea and spending quality time with my family there, swimming and walking along the coast.” While the sea is over 20km from Aoibhín’s home, which meant she couldn’t get there for the majority of lockdown, this resulted in her looking at what hidden gems were closer to home to fill the void. “I really missed the sea, as I love to swim in the outdoors. However, I only considered the sea an option in Clare until we were forced to get creative! “The weather was so good and I really wanted to go for a dip. We did a bit of research and discovered how safe, beautiful and refreshing Ballyalla Lake, just 3km from our front door, is. It was such a pleasant surprise and now I see us using it to kayak, paddleboard and swim going forward, for sure! And my eldest

18 July 2020 | Irish Independent

she was often driving all over the country. “But I always enjoy the drive in the Volkswagen, due to its size and comfort. It’s got incredible tech too, which means I have everything I need.”

Staycations

daughter Hanorah, who turned two this summer, loved feeding the ducks there. “That’s the beauty of living in the countryside. We get out exploring quite easily most days, and Hanorah loves the outdoors.”

Road trip plans Now that restrictions have lifted, Aoibhín is looking forward to travelling within Ireland again, particularly in the west. “Besides Clare, Dingle and the Dingle Peninsula is our ‘go-to’ spot every year. We just love it. Especially Brandon. There is so much to see and do, amazing food, breathtaking scenery and great craic. We have good friends in Dingle who we love to visit. We love getting out for a swim, a kayak or hike and Slay Head Beach is picture-perfect. “So although the summer is shorter, we are hoping to get a trip to our beloved Dingle if I can pull John away from work! John and his team at the Armada Hotel have been incredibly innovative and have adapted extremely well to this unprecedented time. Now that the doors are open again, things will be very different for a while, but they are ready and so looking forward to

welcoming guests back to Spanish Point. But hopefully, he will get some time off so we can take a trip!” Aoibhín adds, “Hanorah loves visiting family too, whether that’s here in Clare or in Dublin, so plenty of trips to the nanas, grandad, aunts and cousins will be on the cards. We brought Hanorah on a campervan trip along the Wild Atlantic Way last year and she just loved it. We had the best time. We have Líobhan now too, so it’ll be a little cosier, but I would love to do the same this year, if we can escape for a few days.”

Space and comfort With two young kids on-board, Aoibhín says road trips have been made much easier with her Volkswagen Tiguan All Space. “The Tiguan All Space has been a Godsend since having babies. With little ones in tow, you acquire so much more baggage and cargo! Having that space, comfort and safety is vital. The Tiguan All Space fits baggage and our buggy perfectly, along with car seats and even extra seats in the boot, should you need them. I think it’s the perfect family car without compromising on style.” With work, namely BEO events, which are bespoke health-andwellness events run by Aoibhín and her colleague Sharon Connellan, Aoibhín says

Aoibhín is also looking forward to hosting her own family in Clare, for a ‘social distancing staycation’. “They have plans to get to Clare in the coming weeks, which will mean lots of family meals, sea swims and quality time. I would also love to organise a sibling getaway with my sisters Ailbhe and Doireann, before Ailbhe’s baby arrives. A spa break would be just what the doctor ordered!” And what ‘must-sees’ would Aoibhín share for any of our readers planning a road trip to Clare within the next few weeks, months or further down the line? “There really is nothing like the coast of Co Clare. Anywhere from Loop Head right up to Ballyvaughan. My personal favourites are Spanish Point and Doolin, but I may be biased there! I swim whenever I can with an open swimming group, Snámhaí Sasta each morning at 9am in Spanish Point and that’s magic. I would, of course, recommend seeing the Cliffs of Moher, preferably from the sea by taking a Cliffs of Moher Cruise from Doolin.” She also adds to check out the local businesses, “Now more than ever, it will be so important to ‘Champion Green’, in other words support Irish business. From Dodi Café’s signature coffee in Lahinch to Moher Hill Farm for a great day out with the young ones, there are many amazing options in Clare. I, for one, can’t wait for a glass of vino and some fresh seafood in Vaughan’s in Liscannor very soon!” Aoibhín’s brand BEO is preparing for their next venture, ‘Breathe with BEO on the Bay’, which is their first post-Covid-19 event at the end of July. Visit beowellness.ie for more details on upcoming events. Aoibhín is an ambassador for Volkswagen Ireland.

The Great Western Adverture 15

SPONSORED

Muckross Park Hotel & Spa

Westport. Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

Want to experience the authenticity of the west of Ireland, but also be able to relax in a luxury spa after hours of exploring? Of course you do! Travel writer Clodagh Dooley suggests some relaxed destinations in the west, that combine a spa stay with beautiful scenery Calming Killarney One of my absolute favourites for a relaxing break Killarney is Killarney in Co Lakes Kerry. As a child, I used to travel to Killarney during the summer and stay in a B&B just outside the town. But when I returned last May with my boyfriend, for the first time since I was a kid, it was for a different reason – to stay in the luxurious 5-Star Muckross Park Hotel & Spa. The opulent hotel is ideally situated amongst the 25,000 acres of Killarney National Park and just 4km from Killarney Town. This made it perfect because I felt like it combined two escapes in one – you get the quiet countryside, where the hotel is based, but you can still venture into Killarney Town, just a few minutes away, for a buzzing atmosphere. We were staying in one of the hotel’s suites, which had its own living room area with plush fabrics, a king-sized bed, spacious bathroom, and a balcony. Chocolates and champagne were even waiting for us on the glass table when we arrived, so it was difficult to leave the beautiful room! But during our weekend stay, we took a Jaunting Car (a two-wheeled carriage and horse) ride around Killarney National Park, visited Torc Waterfall and the hotel had also organised a one-hour boat tour for us on the Killarney Lakes. This was something I had never done before and it was extremely calming to sail along the water,

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Time to unwind soaking up the incredible views of the MacGillycuddy Reeks, as our guide shared stories about the area. I think the best part though was being able to head back to the hotel’s Gothic-inspired, tranquil spa after our explorations, to relax in the outdoor hot tub and the Vitality Suite, which is made up of a vitality pool where air and water jets gently massage your aches and pains. Pure bliss! The Spa at Muckross offers a variety of treatments, from massages to facials, and the team has been busy coming up with innovative ways to help you relax and be pampered, while feeling safe, after lockdown. Visit muckrosspark.com

Unwind in Cork I had planned to visit 5-Star Castlemartyr Spa & Golf Resort to destress before lockdown happened, so now a visit is needed even more! The hotel has even been named the 5-Star Hotel of the Year 2020 at the Irish Hotel Awards recently, so that’s another reason to head to East Cork! Nestled amid woodlands, just 20 minutes away from Cork City, Castlemartyr Spa & Golf Resort has a rich history which dates back to 1210 and among its owners were Sir Walter Raleigh and Richard Boyle, the first Earl of Cork. Not only is the hotel situated on 220-acres of grounds which includes a lake and woodland paths, but it also has an incredible 18-hole links-style golf course and spa (I’m more interested in the

Castlemartyr Spa & Golf Resort

Spa Massage Room at Castlemartyr

spa, of course, than the golf!). In the Spa at Castlemartyr, there are 10 individual treatment rooms, a Couples Suite, vitality lounges, a heated indoor pool, sauna and more. The therapies and treatments are performed using natural products by ESPA and Germaine de Capuccini, which will leave you feeling and smelling wonderful! The hotel and spa have been reopened since July 16th. Check out their site to read about the steps they are taking to ensure your stay is smooth, safe and enjoyable. Visit castlemartyrresort.ie

Wake up to Westport

SPA HOTELS IN THE WEST Here are some more hotels with spas worth checking out on your getaway to the west

LOUGH ESKE CASTLE, CO DONEGAL

A 5-Star castle hotel situated by Lough Eske, just 10 minutes from Donegal Town. It has opulence, style, great Donegal cuisine and an idyllic spa which overlooks the gardens. I’d definitely recommend getting a facial here – it’s so relaxing. Hotel guests not receiving spa treatments have complimentary use of the heated swimming pool and fitness centre throughout their stay. lougheskecastlehotel.com

2CO GALWAY

THE g HOTEL AND SPA,

Another glamorous 5-Star hotel (you’re entitled to treat yourself after a difficult past few months!), the g Hotel’s intimate spa will ensure you truly switch off on a trip to Galway city. Note that due to ESPA guidelines, the steam room and sauna will be closed temporarily. theghotel.ie

Another destination I was looking forward to visiting this year was Westport, Co Mayo, where I was to attend a wedding back in April. However, it will be taking place next year instead, so at least I can still look forward to visiting. And maybe even plan a few days to explore some sights in Mayo while I’m at it, like Clew DINGLE SKELLIG HOTEL, CO KERRY Bay or Croagh Patrick. 4-Star Hotel Westport looks like the Situated on the magnificent Dingle Peninsula, perfect place to base yourself if you’re the 4-Star Dingle Skellig Hotel not only considering visiting Westport soon. Set boasts stunning views of Dingle Bay, but it’s on the idyllic 400-acre estate of the regarded as one of the finest hotels in Kerry. 18th-century manor house, Westport Relax in one of the hotel’s 32 new amazing House, the hotel has some social guest rooms, which opened last year. And let distancing activities you can do outdoors. go of all stress with a visit to their Peninsula For example, a family bush-crafting Spa, which has an extensive list of treatments experience and exclusive onsite bike hire, on offer. to cycle through the estate and the Great dingleskellig.com Western Greenway, a 42km-long trail. Their Senses Spa will be reopening this Dingle Skellig Relaxation Suite August, so you can relax after a cycle, with a range of specialised massages and soothing facials or body peels. Families can also spend some time at the pool in their Ocean Spirit Leisure Centre. Hotel Westport has created a programme Ch hotel eck out th that focuses on the soci s’ websit e highest standards of keep al media p es and up ag cleanliness and social meas dated on C es to distancing throughout u direc res in pla ovid-19 tio the property, as their ce informns and pa , for staff and guests’ safety rk ation , and ing Deluxe Executive Suite BOOK is paramount. A STA to Dingle Skellig Hotel Y! Visit hotelwestport.ie for more details

Irish Independent | 18 July 2020

Coffee stop Whether you’re after a coffee with scenic views or a bite to eat in a quirky café, here’s a list some of the best culinary gems to visit on your adventure in the west O’Regan’s Restaurant, Foynes

Afternoon Tea at Cupán Tae, Galway

Cupán Tae desserts by Julia Dunin Photography

Cupán Tae desserts by Julia Dunin Photography of Foynes, and, of course, the creation of Irish coffee. The museum has also recently opened a new Maureen O’Hara exhibition which showcases her Hollywood memorabilia, dresses and honorary Oscar. An adult ticket is €10, senior/student ticket is €9, children ticket is €5, and a family ticket (two adults and up to four children) is €25. Visit flyingboatmuseum.com Enjoy alcohol sensibly. Visit drinkaware.ie

For a cupán tae!

Enjoy an Irish coffee at Foynes!

For Irish history and an authentic Irish coffee! Did you know that the first Irish coffee was crafted at Foynes in Co Limerick? Foynes was once an airbase for transatlantic flights back in the late 1930s and early 1940s – it became one of the biggest civilian airports in Europe during World War II. John F Kennedy, Ernest Hemingway, Eleanor Roosevelt and Maureen O’Hara all came through Foynes. But it was in the winter of 1943, that the Chef at the airport restaurant, Joe Sheridan, created Irish coffee using Irish whiskey, with the aim of warming travellers on a cold night. Today, you can rediscover the ambiance of bygone days by visiting O’Regan’s Restaurant in Foynes, which has a 1940s-style setting, and taste a rich, authentic Irish coffee, where it was first invented. O’Regan’s Restaurant is part of the Foynes Flying Boat & Maritime Museum, where you can discover stories about aviation and passenger travel across the North Atlantic, the rich maritime history of the River Shannon, and the port

18 July 2020 | Irish Independent

Those who want a decent cup of tea should stop by Cupán Tae, based in the heart of Galway city’s Latin Quarter. Cupán Tae is the kind of establishment that would catch your eye on passing by, with its beautiful exterior and interior design. Relax in their tea rooms for Afternoon Tea, with one of over 50 varieties of tea to choose from. Each tea is sourced by Cupán Tae’s master tea expert and proprietor, Alison McArdle, and served on fine bone china. There are finger sandwiches, sweet treats, and homemade scones to indulge in, and if there’s a non-tea drinker in your group (such madness!), there’s coffee too. Afternoon Tea is €25 per person and bookings can be made online. For other reservations, you can call (091) 895000. Availability will be limited, and while a walk-in service is offered, this is with a restricted menu. Visit cupantae.eu

For surfing, local art and roasted coffee Bundoran in Co Donegal is renowned for being one of the top surfing destinations in Ireland. So after spending time in the water, head to Buoys and Gulls for some seaside snacks. There’s vegan food, iced coffee, roasted coffee – you name it! Owner Fiona Dolan and the team are big supporters of local art and crafts, so you might pick up a little gift or two in their gallery while you’re there. Plus, the café is dog-friendly. Need we say more! Follow on Instagram @buoysandgulls_ for updates

The Organic Centre

For organic produce Greenfingers, coffee lovers, and eco advocates will adore The Organic Centre in Rossinver, Co Leitrim. Now in its 25th year, the centre was founded in 1995 as a

Buoys and Gulls, Bundoran

not-for-profit business, to educate visitors about organic gardening, growing and sustainable living. Not only can you spend hours wandering the lovely gardens and shop around for gardening products to take home, but the onsite café is also worth a visit. Finn & Albies at the Grass Roof Café is a unique find within the grounds and serves delicious homemade food using organic produce grown onsite, including tasty homemade soup and bread. They also offer herbal tea, coffee, and baked goods. Unwind with good food in a relaxed environment! Visit theorganiccentre.ie

For breakfast with seaside views Situated on the seafront in Strandhill, Sligo, Shells Seaside Bakery Café is a mustvisit for the views alone. But the amazing food and hot drinks offering makes it even better! Their mouthwatering breakfast menu includes dishes like Warm Mushrooms on Toast, Eggs Benedict, Beryl’s Breakfast Bap (dry-cured bacon, fried farm egg, and homemade apple chutney on a warm brioche bun), and a full Irish breakfast. The café also serves up a variety of cakes and coffee blends, from Americanos to Cappuccinos, along with hot chocolate, tea, smoothies, and orange juice – so something to keep everyone in the family happy! Seating inside is limited, however, you can take away food and a drink, if you want to have it in your own car by the sea, or even as you stroll along the strand. Visit shellscafe.com

For a little pick-me-up If you’re road-tripping near Roscommon this summer or beyond, and find yourself near the little village of Athleague, stop by Les Petites Tartres which has been described by its local visitors as a ‘cosy hidden gem’. All food is prepared fresh and everything from their jams to relishes are all homemade. The café is known for its friendly service, local produce, and their coffee, which is Fairtrade and organic. Check out the Facebook page for updates facebook.com/lespetitestartrescafe/

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Canon Sheehan Loop Walk, Ballyhoura begins from a car park on the R251 road and follows an obvious tourist path. The loop walk also takes in views of the nearby Mackoght Mountain and overlooks Dunlewy Lough and Glenveagh National Park. Visit activeme.ie/guides/errigal-andmackoght-mountain-loop-walk

Walk this way Park up the car and explore the west of Ireland’s beautiful mountain and forest trails. Here are six worth visiting: Moylussa, Co Clare At 532m, Moylussa is the highest point in Co Clare. Part of the Slieve Bernagh mountain range, the Moylussa hike is a 9.7km moderate trail, with a slightly steeper section at the end. The trail starts at Ballycuggaran Forest, where there are parking facilities, and the hike takes approximately three hours to do. But it leads you to incredible views over Lough Derg, so along with bringing your hiking boots, don’t forget your camera for some great snaps!

Arroo Trail, Co Leitrim The Arroo Trail is a moderate, linear trail, starting from Aghanlish Old School in Co Leitrim. The 8km waymarked walk takes about two hours to complete and you’ll walk along bog road and climb a river valley below Arroo Mountain. The amazing views extend south across Glenade Valley and north over Donegal Bay, towards the Bluestack Mountains. The routes are appropriate for people with a moderate level of fitness and some walking experience, as the trail has some

Lough Errit, Co Roscommon

Blackrock Loop Walk, Ballyhoura

climbs and uneven surfaces. Parking is available at the neighbourhood’s Community Centre. Visit leitrimtourism.com/stories/arroo-trail-walk

The Great Western Greenway, Co Mayo

Ballyhoura Trails, Co Limerick Ballyhoura in Co Limerick, an area filled with green pastures, woodlands, hills, and mountains, provides a world of outdoor adventure and cultural heritage. For walkers, there are 11 walks to explore, ranging in distance from 5km to 18km and all vary from easy strolls to challenging hikes. For adventure seekers, there’s the Ballyhoura Mountain Bike Trails. With 98km of trails including forest road climbs and singletrack with plenty of ups and downs, the trail is the largest network of its kind in Ireland. For families, there are easy strolls through the forest, and make sure to visit the Terra Nova Garden, home to a magical woodland where pixies and fairies live! Admission to the Garden is €6 for an adult and €5 for a child. Visit visitballyhoura.com

llyhoura Mountain Bike Park

Looking for an easy walk with tranquil surroundings? Visit Lough Errit, where you’ll find a number of peaceful walks along the shore of the lake and through the local wood and boglands. Located in Gortaganny, the walks vary in distance between 4km-8km and take between 50-120 minutes to complete. While you’re there, visit the nearby Carrowbehy Living Bogs, one of Ireland’s 12 unique raised bogs being brought back to life. Visit visitroscommon.ie/lough-errit

Errigal Mountain

Errigal Mountain and Mackoght Mountain Hiking Trail, Co Donegal If you’re up for a challenge, why not climb Donegal’s highest mountain? The Errigal Mountain and Mackoght Mountain Hiking Trail is a moderate to strenuous 6km loop walk to the iconic peak of the Errigal Mountain, which is 751m in height. The mountain is situated east of Gweedore Village and the hike itself will take you at least three and a half hours. The route

What would a Great Western Adventure in Co Mayo be without trying out the Great Western Greenway?! This renowned 42kmlong trail in Co Mayo begins in Westport and ends in Achill, taking in some of the west of Ireland’s most magnificent mountains and offering views of Clew Bay. It’s the longest off-road walking and cycling trail in Ireland and you can choose to do the whole thing, or simply pick a section. Achill to Mulranny is 13km long, Mulranny to Newport is 18km and Newport to Westport is 11km. There are also a variety of activities and attractions to discover along the Great Western Greenway, from Westport House to the Deserted Village at Slievemore. Visit greenway.ie

The Great Western Greenway

Photos on this page courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

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Irish Independent | 18 July 2020

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Tory Island Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland

Beach on Sherkin Island, Co Cork, Ireland

Island-hopping! Get away from it all and take your car across the sea on the ferry to explore the west’s most delightful islands. After having restricted travel between the islands and the mainland due to Covid-19, all travel to offshore islands is now permitted. Here is just a taste of what is on offer Ireland is “one of the seven great fountains in the garden of the world’s imagination” WB Yeats

Achill Island Ireland’s largest island boasts 40km of dramatic coastline, incredible scenery on walks and hikes, and tucked away gems. One such gem is Keem Bay, Achill’s most remote Blue Flag beach. Situated on the western end of the island, the golden sands sit at the foot of steep cliffs and is known for its quiet isolation. If you drive to the beach from Keel village, you can take in expansive views across the water. Or if you want more history than scenery, visit the Slievemore Deserted Village. You get a sense of eeriness when you visit this village of more than 80 deserted houses at the foot of Mount Slievemore. No one knows why this area was abandoned by its residents; was it the Potato Famine, a simple move to the mainland or maybe it was a curse? Come and ponder that very question. How to get here: Achill is located on the west coast of Co Mayo and is only accessible by road. Drive across the Michael Davitt Bridge, and take your car exploring the island.

Omey Island This tidal island located near Claddaghduff on the edge of Connemara in Co Galway is perfect for those who want a little something different. Enjoy a day of horseback riding across Omey Beach, catch sight of historical sites, watch the swells of the Atlantic Ocean, and see the picturesque landscapes and wildlife. The island is particularly popular with walkers – walk through the island and witness the graveyard built on a site associated with Brendan the Navigator,

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the rocky shoreline edged with sand cliffs, or a round-topped hill called Crocán na Mban, an early Christian monastic site. The annual Omey Island Races are also held every summer which are still to be decided if taking place this year. Known as ‘The Other Galway Races’, the summer races are a fun day of horse racing, sea, and sand and provides young jockeys the opportunity to show off their talent. How to get here: Omey Island is only accessible at low tide every day by crossing acres of the firm sandy beach by driving or walking - there is no ferry needed. Check the tide timetable before crossing because if you get the timings wrong, you could be stranded when the tide comes in!

Inis Mór The Aran Islands in Galway Bay are one of the most popular tourist destinations in Ireland. The largest of them, Inis Mór, hosts many festivals including the annual ‘Tedfest’, a festival celebrating all things Father Ted, held every March. Rent a bike and cycle to Dún Aonghasa, one of the most popular cycle paths in Ireland. Or dive into the Poll na bPeist (The

The large sandy strand to reach Omey Island

How to get here: Just a short ferry ride from the Cork fishing village of Baltimore takes you to Sherkin Island. A car park is available close to the ferry departure point in Baltimore. Approximate time of travel is one hour and 35 minutes.

Tory Island

Poll na bPeist, Inis Mór Courtesy of Fáilte Ireland Wormhole). This natural rock formation looks like a never-ending hole in the ground. When the tide is in, water rushes into the hole through an underground cave and forces the water over the edges, filling the hole from above. A natural phenomenon unique to the west! How to get here: You can travel to the Aran Islands by sea or air and you can find information on Aran Ferries and Aer Arann. You can travel to Inis Mór, Inis Oirr, or Inis Meain by Passenger Ferry from Doolin in Co Clare or Rossaveal in Co Galway. Travel time to Inis Mór from Rossaveal is 40 minutes and from Doolin is about 90 minutes.

Sherkin Island Sherkin Island, on the southwest coast of Co Cork, is approximately three miles long with a population of just 100 people. The island is the ancestral home of the O’Driscoll clan and is often referred to as the most accessible island in Ireland. With four different walkways catering for all different abilities, you get the chance to explore the diverse, untouched landscape. It is a great base for whale watching, with good fishing to be had on the rocky headlands. And if you’re lucky, you could spot seals and dolphins swimming offshore!

This historic, and the most remote of Ireland’s inhabited islands, is located on the northwest coast of Co Donegal. Just four miles long and one mile wide, Tory Island is an Irish-speaking island, where time seems to have stood still. Enjoy a walk around the small island and take in incredible attractions on the Tory Island Loop walk. Experience the rugged beauty, dive into the crystal-clear waters, and enjoy the island’s traditional crafts and music. The walk will allow you to explore several historical sites, including the Tau Cross and the 6thcentury ruins of Colmcille’s monastery. Tory is a popular retreat for artists, so if you were hoping for peace and quiet and surroundings to inspire you, this is the place for you. How to get here: Travel by Tory Ferry from Magheraroarty Pier which can be driven to through the towns of Letterkenny and Dunfanaghy.

ESCAPE TO AN ISLAND There are 30 islands to visit along the west coast of Ireland, some inhabited and uninhabited, some remote, and some close to the mainland. To get to the islands, you might have to drive distances across causeways and swinging bridges, or even take a swinging cable car! But for most, it is the ferries that will bring you to your incredible island escape. The ferry rides can be made into a fun family adventure and most are wheelchair accessible. Island ferries can change times or be cancelled depending on outside circumstances such as Covid-19, so it’s recommended that you book your place on the ferry well in advance and keep an eye on any updates. For more information on the ferry listings for each of the islands, visit www.wildatlanticway.com

Irish Independent | 18 July 2020

The wild west A trip to the west isn’t complete if you don’t try one of these top outdoor adventure activities available along the coast To the sea, to the sea Get up close and personal with nature with Atlantic Sea Kayaking in West Cork. Get the greatest wake-up call ever by going on a dawn kayak trip, or discover the stars on a night tour. The selection of tours allows you to forage for seaweed, access remote coves and islands, navigate down white-water rapids and maybe even see some dolphins and whales! Suited for any skill level, as your experienced instructor will teach you all you need to know. Visit atlanticseakayaking.com

You rock One of the most heart-thumping activities you can do is rock climbing, and where

better to try it out than the beautiful outdoors along the west coast. Nevsail provides instruction for nervous beginners all the way up to experienced climbers. Scale various grades and routes, abseil, learn climbing techniques, learn about rope work, knots and belaying and enjoy stunning Ballyneety, Co Limerick from above. It has plenty of climbing routes from easy to very difficult, so no one will be left out. Pre-booking is essential. Visit nevsailwatersports.com

Surf’s up! The west coast is the perfect location to surf so if you’re looking to ride those waves, try out the Green Room Surf Shop and School. Just a stone’s throw from the Blue Flag beach of Lahinch, Co Clare, is a small, family-run Irish surf school and eco surf shop. This provides a wide range of surf, standup paddle surfing (SUP), and bodyboard lessons for all ages and abilities. There are improver lessons and for advanced

surfers, equipment is available for hire. And for absolute beginners, the experienced team will teach you all the basics with free-of-charge equipment. By the end, you’ll be wondering why you haven’t been doing this your entire life! Visit thegreenroom.ie

Foaling around Explore the stunning scenery of Brandon Bay by trekking across it on horseback. O’Connor’s Horse Riding is a family-run business located just north of Castlegregory village on the Maharees peninsula and 30km from Tralee and Dingle town. It aims to provide a unique horse riding and pony trekking experience along the beautiful setting of the Brandon Bay coastline. There is plenty of time to enjoy a ride along some of the most beautiful scenery along the Wild Atlantic Way. There is something to suit everyone from young to old with all different levels of experience. Visit beachhorseriding.com

Unique Ascent

An epic adventure The west offers unique outdoor adventures like nowhere else in Ireland. Donegal-based Unique Ascent has so many adventure activities on offer to let you pump up your adrenaline. Visit the most remote, uninhabited, and beautiful places in Donegal and choose from hill walking, mountaineering and rock-climbing activities. Explore the coastline of Donegal’s islands by kayak, or uncover one of the sea caves. You don’t need previous experience, just an adventurous spirit! Adventure guide Iain Miller has over 25 years’ experience as a mountaineer and rock climber and a unique knowledge of Donegal which allowed him to author the Rock Climbing in Donegal 2015 guidebook. Iain will help you ascend the summits of spectacular sea stacks, or descend 250m sea cliffs to reach strikingly beautiful storm beaches. Go on, live on the edge! Visit uniqueascent.ie