BLUE KEY mag <> fw.23

Page 1

III THIRD EDITION

_denim trend report


EARTH SOFT

A biomass-based and vegan softening system that is suitable for all kind of fibers and makes you comfortable in your own skin

THE ARCHROMA WAY TO A SUSTAINABLE WORLD

EARTH SOFT

NEW! Siligen® EH1

Performance components of the system

Biomass based silicone softeners • Super soft and voluminous handle • Hydrophilic • Ultralow cyclic (D4, D5, D6)* content • More than 35% biomass based • Non-animal origin • Suitable for all type of fibers • Improves tear strength &amp; abrasion resistance

[Optional] Hydroperm®

Wicking agent to boost hydrophilic properties on synthetics and its blends • High durability • High stability • Non-yellowing • Non-animal origin • PFC-free soil release

Designed for polyester &amp; PES/CO articles Hydroperm® SRHA liq Designed for PA articles

NEW! Hydroperm® APA liq * D4, D5 and D6 EU are classified by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) as “Substances of Very High Concern” (SVHC) due to its very persistent and very bioaccumulative properties (vPvB).


EARTH SOFT

Main benefits in a nutshell

‘SAFE’ WITH: Archroma’s EARTH SOFT system

®

ENHANCED

‘ENHANCED’ WITH:

SAFE

• Safe products from a reliable global partner who applies international safety standards • Biomass-based softening system of ultralow cyclic siloxanes (D4, D5, D6)* • Super soft and voluminous handle effect • Improved hydrophilic and wicking effect • Improved tear strength and abrasion resistance • System that uses non animal origin ingredients • Embracing sustainable production &amp; lower impact clothing • Controlled and safe chemistry for the consumer and the environment

Archroma’s EARTH SOFT system

* D4, D5 and D6 EU are classified by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) as “Substances of Very High Concern” (SVHC) due to its very persistent and very bioaccumulative properties (vPvB).

THE ARCHROMA WAY TO A SUSTAINABLE WORLD Safe + Efficient + Enhanced = The Ultimate Collection

SAFE – IT’S OUR NATURE TO PROTECT

A solid core: Our deeply rooted goal to protect people and our planet. Safe to use, safe to release and also safe to wear.

ENHANCED – IT’S OUR NATURE TO ADD ANOTHER LEVEL OF VALUE

Innovation is critical. With it, we create additional effects, functionalities and aesthetics and sustainable differentiation to bring additional value, helping consumers to achieve their goals, for a life enhanced.

www.archroma.com

For additional technical service and /or laboratory assistance, contact your local Archroma representative.

ARCHROMA MANAGEMENT LLC Brand &amp; Performance Textile Specialties Neuhofstrasse 11, 4153 Reinach Switzerland

This information corresponds to the present state of our knowledge and is intended as a general description of our products and their possible applications. Archroma makes no warranties, express or implied, as to the information’s accuracy, adequacy, sufficiency or freedom from defect and assumes no liability in connection with any use of this information. Any user of this product is responsible for determining the suitability of Archroma’s products for its particular application. * Nothing included in this information waives any of Archroma’s General Terms and Conditions of Sale, which control unless it agrees otherwise in writing. Any existing intellectual/industrial property rights must be observed. Due to possible changes in our products and applicable national and international regulations and laws, the status of our products could change. Material Safety Data Sheets providing safety precautions, that should be observed when handling or storing Archroma products, are available upon request and are provided in compliance with applicable law. You should obtain and review the applicable Material Safety Data Sheet information before handling any of these products. For additional information, please contact Archroma. *For sales to customers located within the United States and Canada the following applies in addition: NO EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTY IS MADE OF THE MERCHANTABILITY, SUITABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR OTHERWISE OF ANY PRODUCT OR SERVICE.

bptmarketing@archroma.com

® Trademark of Archroma registered in many countries © 2022 Archroma


_ // BLUE

INN SUSTENTA N TECNOLOG TEN


NOVACION ABILIDAD NEGOCIOS GIA NDENCIAS



_ LETTER FROM THE EDITOR Ha sido un tremendo honor haber realizado y presentado “New&amp;Now”, nuestra nueva edición de Trippin’Blue, en Abril 2022. Llevamos meses definiendo las temáticas, pensando en cada invitad@, reuniéndonos con speakers y pensando los contenidos. Y siempre nos ponemos una meta alta: superar el evento anterior. Desobedecer es, para nosotros, cuestionar las formas de producción, innovar y buscar diversas maneras de hacer algo cotidiano, de mejor manera. Parte de nuestra desobediencia nos permite conectar con personas relevantes y el resultado se basa en expandir límites, acercando casos, referentes, ideas y conceptos. Hacemos un trabajo de curaduría para brindarte charlas de alta calidad, es por eso que invitamos a l@s expert@s de nuestra Industria, buscando siempre potenciar nuestros mercados! En Be Disobedient somos pocos, pero contamos con el apoyo apasionado de muchos y, por esa razón, soñamos en grande! New&amp;Now trajo muchas sorpresas: entrevistamos a Adriano Goldschmied (Fundador de Diesel), Bert Van Son (Creador de ‘Mud Jeans’), James Bartle (CEO de ‘Outland Denim’), Arianne Engelberg de ‘The New Denim Project’, José Rafael Royo de ‘Tejidos Royo’, Annat Finkler de ‘Global Denim’, Ebru Ozaydin de LYCRA(r), Tricia Carey de Tencel, Umberto de Vita de Archroma, entre tantas otras empresas, hicimos un panel de las Ferias de Denim junto a Denim PV, KingPins, Denim Days, House of Denim &amp; Denim&amp;Jeans. Todas las conferencias ya están online en nuestro Canal de YouTube @ BeDisobedient. Ahí, de a poco, vamos creando nuestro Glosario Jeanswear LatAm, ¡que no es poco! Gracias, gracias, muchas gracias por sus colaboraciones tan generosas. This is New &amp; Now → The Future of Denim. Special Thanks to Archroma, Lycra ®, Wgsn &amp; Be Disobedient. Ana Paula Alves Founder at Be Disobedient



Convertir los residuos textiles es sólo el principio. En The LYCRA Company, estamos comprometidos a reducir el impacto ®

y THERMOLITE® EcoMade, fabricadas al 100% con residuos textiles, son un paso en la dirección correcta. Pero no podemos abordar este problema solos. Si enlazamos nuestro bucle con otros, podremos empezar a cerrar juntos el bucle de la circularidad.

Keep in the loop with LYCRA. TheLycraCompany.com/loop https://www.lycra.com/en/lycra-company-sustainability/sustainable-products https://www.lycra.com/en/lycra-company-sustainability/sustainable-products https://www.lycra.com/en/lycra-company-sustainability/sustainable-products https://www.lycra.com/en/lycra-company-sustainability/sustainable-products https://www.lycra.com/en/lycra-company-sustainability/sustainable-products https://www.lycra.com/en/lycra-company-sustainability/sustainable-products

+ INFO

COOLMAX® and THERMOLITE® are trademarks of The LYCRA Company


_ // Trippin’ Blue is brought to you by..

Powered &amp; supported by..

Participants and collaborators..

Media partners..


+2200PERSONAS ASISTIENDO +20 SPEAKERS INTERNACIONALES +12 PAISES PARTICIPANTES

THANKS!


[PURE INDIGO ICON]2 An aniline-free* &amp; PP-free** indigo system that produces authentic denim without compromising our planet

THE ARCHROMA WAY TO A SUSTAINABLE WORLD

[PURE INDIGO ICON]2

Performance components of the system

Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liq

Pre-reduced indigo • Aniline-free* • This product has received the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute’s Gold Level Material Health Certificate • Same performance as regular indigo • Manufactured in our awardwinning Jamshoro production facility (Pakistan)

Clean

The Dyeing Process...Redefined

Patented Ring Dyeing technology allowing: • High degree of whiteness on the final look with single laser technique • PP-free** techniques • No need of laser booster application • Important resource saving in laundry process

Dekol® SN liq – chelating agent Primasol® NF liq – wetting &amp; penetrating agent Setamol® WS p – dispersing agent

• Best-in-class indigo dyeing auxiliaries • These products have a Cradle to Cradle Material assessment statement, which permits its use in a Cradle to Cradle Certified certification at GOLD level

* Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods ** Potassium Permanganate free


[PURE INDIGO ICON]2

Main benefits in a nutshell

SAFE

®

EFFICIENT

-73%

-39%

-86%

-81%

ENHANCED

• Safe products from a reliable global ‘SAFE’ WITH: Archroma&#39;s [PURE INDIGO icon]2 partner who applies international system safety standards • Aniline-free* indigo • Allows elimination of PP thus ‘EFFICIENT’ WITH: neutralization in wash-down Archroma&#39;s [PURE INDIGO icon]2 compared to benchmark • Patented ring dyeing technology Indigo liquid dyeing &amp; laser + • Enhances consistency of the dyeing PP wash-down process for premium quality • Allows extreme reduction in water ‘ENHANCED’ WITH: Archroma&#39;s consumption in laundry process [PURE INDIGO icon]2 • Shorter process timing and system possibility to increase production output • Local washdown effects with top sustainability profile

CASE STUDY: Pakistan customer, Laundry

* Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods ** Potassium Permanganate free

THE ARCHROMA WAY TO A SUSTAINABLE WORLD Safe + Efficient + Enhanced = The Ultimate Collection

SAFE – IT’S OUR NATURE TO PROTECT

A solid core: Our deeply rooted goal to protect people and our planet. Safe to use, safe to release and also safe to wear.

EFFICIENT – IT’S OUR NATURE TO RETHINK SUSTAINABLE MANUFACTURING

Innovating application processes that minimize resources and maximize productivity, both in our and our customers’ manufacturing as well as by setting ourselves ambitious sustainability goals.

ENHANCED – IT’S OUR NATURE TO ADD ANOTHER LEVEL OF VALUE

Innovation is critical. With it, we create additional effects, functionalities and aesthetics and sustainable differentiation to bring additional value, helping consumers to achieve their goals, for a life enhanced.

www.archroma.com

For additional technical service and /or laboratory assistance, contact your local Archroma representative.

ARCHROMA MANAGEMENT LLC Brand &amp; Performance Textile Specialties Neuhofstrasse 11, 4153 Reinach Switzerland

This information corresponds to the present state of our knowledge and is intended as a general description of our products and their possible applications. Archroma makes no warranties, express or implied, as to the information’s accuracy, adequacy, sufficiency or freedom from defect and assumes no liability in connection with any use of this information. Any user of this product is responsible for determining the suitability of Archroma’s products for its particular application. * Nothing included in this information waives any of Archroma’s General Terms and Conditions of Sale, which control unless it agrees otherwise in writing. Any existing intellectual/industrial property rights must be observed. Due to possible changes in our products and applicable national and international regulations and laws, the status of our products could change. Material Safety Data Sheets providing safety precautions, that should be observed when handling or storing Archroma products, are available upon request and are provided in compliance with applicable law. You should obtain and review the applicable Material Safety Data Sheet information before handling any of these products. For additional information, please contact Archroma. *For sales to customers located within the United States and Canada the following applies in addition: NO EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTY IS MADE OF THE MERCHANTABILITY, SUITABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR OTHERWISE OF ANY PRODUCT OR SERVICE.

bptmarketing@archroma.com

® Trademark of Archroma registered in many countries © 2021 Archroma


CON TE NI DO


F/W 2023 MACROTRENDS_ METAVERSO _ Pag 20

By WGSN

MICROTRENDS_ DENIM_

Pag 16

Pag 60

Pag 26


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Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

_ // MACROTENDENCIAS It’s all about the process


MACROTENDENCIAS

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_ // METAVERSE

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_ // CREATING VIRTUAL LANDSCAPES

Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

It’s all about the process


Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


MODA EN EL METAVERSO

La pandemia ha normalizado la vida online para las masas, pero el verdadero potencial de este espacio tardará décadas en materializarse, y con el tiempo transformará gradualmente la vida y la forma de comprar.

Con el QRcode, puedes descargar nuestro informe sobre el Marketing en el Metaverso y descubrir cómo definimos con más detalle este nuevo universo, explicando cómo sacarle partido y resaltando los protagonistas que lo están transformando. Nos basamos en análisis, estrategias y casos de estudio para destacar las formas en las que las marcas pueden iniciarse en este espacio y entender qué depara el futuro.

https://lp.wgsn.com/wgsn-insight-metaverso-es.html?utm_source=trippinblue&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_content=metaverse&amp;utm_campaign=trippin-blue&amp;utm_term=noterm

https://lp.wgsn.com/wgsn-insight-metaverso-es.html?utm_source=trippinblue&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_content=metaverse&amp;utm_campaign=trippin-blue&amp;utm_term=noterm https://lp.wgsn.com/wgsn-insight-metaverso-es.html?utm_source=trippinblue&amp;utm_medium=referral&amp;utm_content=metaverse&amp;utm_campaign=trippin-blue&amp;utm_term=noterm

VER INFORME

It’s all about the process

Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

WGSN ha estado siguiendo el auge del metaverso durante más de tres años, destacando las oportunidades de marca en mundos virtuales a través de AR y VR, NFT, juegos y blockchain.


MACROTENDENCIAS

_ //

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

UPCYCLED, RECYCLED, RESALE &amp; RENTAL

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_ // WELLNESS FIRST

Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

It’s all about the process


MACROTENDENCIAS

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_ // THE JOURNEY TO CLIMATE STABILITY

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_ // BE PROACTIVE, NOT REACTIVE

Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

It’s all about the process


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Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

_ // COLOR. It’s all about the process


COLOR

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

PINK PP

Valentino F/W 2022 Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023


COLOR

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

PURPLE RAIN

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023


COLOR

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

GO METALLIC

Dolce Gabbana F/W 2022 Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023


COLOR

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

SPICE UP YOUR LIFE

Ports 1961 F/W 2022 Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023


Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

_ // PRINTS _ // &amp;MATERIALS It’s all about the process


PRINTS

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FULL BLOOMS

Alberta Ferretti F/W 2022 Desarrollado por Be Disobedient



MATERIALS

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

WET LOOK

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

Blumarine F/W 2022

Sportmax F/W 2022


Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

_ // DETAILS _ // &amp;CONCEPTS. It’s all about the process


DETAILS &amp; CONCEPTS

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MODERN ARMORS

Balmain F/W 2022

Balmain F/W 2022 Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023


DETAILS &amp; CONCEPTS

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

FUR PLACEMENT

Gucci F/W 2022

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023


Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

_ // KEY ITEMS. It’s all about the process


KEY ITEMS

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

JUST A TANK TOP

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023


KEY ITEMS

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

X-LONG LEGS

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

Louis Vuitton F/W 2022

Dries Van Noten F/W 2022


KEY ITEMS

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

UPSCALE KNIT

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023


KEY ITEMS

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

DA-BOMB

Louis Vuitton F/W 2022 Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023


KEY ITEMS

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

FURRY FRIENDS

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

Dolce Gabbana F/W 2022


Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

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Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

_ // DENIM. It’s all about the process


KEY STORIES

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Y2K

Bluemarine F/W 2022

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023


KEY STORIES

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CELEBRITIES REVIVAL

Dualipa Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

Julia Fox &amp; Kanye West


KEY STORIES

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INTERIOR INSPIRED

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

Stefan Cooke F/W 2022


KEY STORIES

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DEADSTOCK DESIGN

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Levi’s X BentGableNits

Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023


KEY STORIES

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

FLUID MASCULINITY

@La.ligue

ERL F/W 2022 Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

Taakk F/W 2022

Balenciaga


KEY STORIES

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

ETHLETNIC

Etro F/W 2022

Alanui F/W 2022 Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

Matty Bovan F/W 2022


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

Dsquared F/W 2022


KEY STORIES

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

HYPER-TEXTURE

Diesel F/W 2022 Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

Philoshphy di Lorenzo

Diesel F/W 2022


KEY STORIES

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

BOTANICAL-CAMO

Kenzo F/W 2022 Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

Molly Goddard F/W 2022

Outside denim lab

Dhruv Kapoor F/W 2022


Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

_ // KEY ITEMS. It’s all about the process


KEY ITEMS

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

CORSETRY

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023


KEY ITEMS

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

RELAXED BOXY

Diesel F/W 2022 Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


UTILITY PANT

Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

It’s all about the process


KEY ITEMS

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

LOW RISE

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Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023


KEY ITEMS

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90´S BASICS

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Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023


Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

_ // WASHES _ // &amp;FINISHES. It’s all about the process


WASHES &amp; FINISHES

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

DIGITAL ART

Braw haus xep7

Ferrari F/W 2022

Ourlegacy

@chiveskella Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

Y/project F/W 2022


ARTFUL FUNGI

Nahmias

Feng Chen wang

David catalan It’s all about the process

Simon Miller

Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

Daria fedovora


WASHES &amp; FINISHES

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QUILTED

@Darion_famous

Dr. collectors

La réunion

Mark Fast

Dua Lipa/Diesel

ERL F/W 2022

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DISTRESSED

Eckhaus Latta

Freepeople

Marni F/W 2022 It’s all about the process

Kit woo F/W 2022

Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

Diesel F/W 2022


WASHES &amp; FINISHES

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

QUARTZ

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Vêtements F/W 2022

Tod’s F/W 2022

Acne studios F/W 2022

Pas de calais

Etro F/W 2022

Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

Elena velez F/W 2022


Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

_ // COLOR. It’s all about the process


COLORS

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FADED BRIGHTS

Diesel F/W 2022 Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


Rejina Pyo F/W 2022

IFM F/W 2022

Gestuz F/W 2022

Lazoschmidl F/W 2022

ACT N1 F/W 2022

Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

PDL F/W 2022


COLORS

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient

PEACH SHADOW

Desarrollado por Be Disobedient


DIRTY BROWN / DARK OAK

B-sides

It’s all about the process

Ludovico Saint

Blue Key // Trend review F/W 2023

Freepleople



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