Candle making using beeswax

by Héléne Couture and Denis Guzzi

At the Fourth International Conference on Apiculture in Tropical Climates held in Cairo in November 1988 delegates heard from Janet Maxwell and Pierre Rousseau of the candle-making technique which has been developed by the MRDP/CECI beekeeping project in Gabu region, Guinea-Bissau. The introduction of this simple candle-making method using local beeswax was a key success in the early stages of the project, motivating beekeepers to participate in the project. Following many requests for further information, the original inventors of the idea, Denis Guzzi and Héléne Couture have kindly provided the following guide.

This is a simple method of making candles using materials which can be found in most villages where honey is collected. The following instructions are the result of numerous experiments to obtain the best possible results (slow burning and maximum luminescence) but with simple production methods.

Candles made in this way for domestic and religious use represent an interesting source of revenue for the craftsman turned seller for they compare favourably with imported candles and they even look similar.

Our hope in producing the following guide is that anyone who follows the directions will easily make candles of good quality.

* Where reference to tables or figures is made, please see the original journal article

Materials and basic equipment required

Clean beeswax, thin cotton string, bamboo canes, honey, a tin can (about 500 ml), saucepan, water, a knife and some leaves (Figure 1*).

Mould preparation

Collect some straight bamboo canes and cut into 13cm lengths. Choose sections with an internal diameter of about 21 mm (usually fully-grown bamboo corresponds best to these dimensions).

Choose canes with thick walls — their deterioration will be slower.

At each end of the mould cut two equal notches. Then make two slivers of bamboo slightly longer than the width of the mould ~ the slivers will be inserted into the notches to hold the wick. The notches with slivers of wood in position can be seen in Figure 2*.

Making the wick

Using the cotton string and the mould measure the wick as follows: hold the string at one end of the mould, wrap the string round to the other end twice (shown in Figure 3*) and cut it. Using this Piece of string measure two more Pieces the same length. Pass these three strings around the centre of a bamboo cane the size of a pencil, making sure that you finish with six equal lengths. Plait the strings using them in pairs (Figure 4*), keeping an even tension and knot the ends when finished. It is important that the wick is as smooth, straight and even as possible.

Melting the wax

Choose clean, yellow wax and cut it into small pieces. Put the wax into the tin can the edges of which have been hammered to form a spout for pouring. Put about 350 ml of water into the pan. Now put the tin can into the pan taking care it does not tip over or that any water gets into the can (Figure 5*).

Place the pan on a fire and wait for the wax to melt. DO NOT BOIL THE WAX.

Preparation of the mould

Whilst the wax is melting put the moulds close to the fire to get them as hot as possible so that the temperature difference between the wax and mould is minimal.

Take one of the bamboo splinters and attach a wick to it using a slipknot.

To the other end of the wick attach a cord of the same length as the wick. Smear honey round the inside of the mould. Thread the cord through the mould and then the wick, taking care not to get honey on it. Fasten the wick to the second sliver of bamboo and pull the wick into the centre of the mould. Pull the wick tight and attach it to the mould with more cotton. If you are preparing several moulds at one time as soon as you finish this stage put them near the fire or in the sun having chosen a spot which is out of draughts. Make several holes about 2 cm deep and the same width as the mould. Put the moulds into the holes, pressing them firmly into the ground and pack soil around the mould to prevent wax leaking out. Figure 6* shows wicks in place inside moulds, ready to be filled with molten wax.

Casting/Moulding

When the wax is totally liquefied wait another 2-3 minutes before taking the pan from the heat.

Using a cloth take the can from the pan and pour the molten wax into the moulds. Cover the surface of the wax using a leaf as a stopper (Figure 7*). Wait for at least two hours. Best results are achieved if the candle is allowed to set slowly.

After every third mould put the can of wax back in the pan to stop the wax getting too cold.

Demoulding

Take the leaf off the end of the mould. Figure 8*shows a candle after the wax has set, ready to be removed from the mould. Remove the bamboo splinters taking care not to move the wick whilst doing so. Begin pushing the candle out of the mould from the end that has been stoppered (Figure 9*). Using a knife cut away the soil and spoiled wax from the end that was stuck in the ground, taking care not to cut the wick (Figure 10*).

Pull lightly on the wick to undo the slip knot. You will get a curl in the wick where the knot has been undone — this is the end to light the finished candle.

Cut the other end of the wick taking care not to decentralise it. Wipe away any honey residue on the candle with a damp cloth (without wetting the wick) and roll the candle in tissue to keep it free from dust (Figure 11*). Clean the mould making sure no soil has got inside it.

Probiems you may encounter making candles in this way:

1. Cracks may appear running along or across the candle as you are removing it from the mould. To avoid this happening it is essential that the wax is very hot (but without boiling) at the time it is poured into the mould and that the mould is as warm as possible. If you make your candles at midday in a draught-free place you can be assured of a good result.

2. A shallow dip may appear around the wick at the end where the wax was poured in. This problem occurs if the mould is not hot enough or it cools too quickly when full. If the ambient temperature is not good enough to avoid this proceed in the following way: 20 minutes after casting take out the leaf stopper and re- fill the dip with hot wax. Replace the leaf over the surface of the wax.

The above method is the result of many experiments. We have chosen measurements that give the best results in terms of longevity, luminescence and ease of production. For example we have tried using longer moulds but it was difficult to coat the inside with honey and the number of cracks in the finished candles was doubled. Our experiments resulted in choice of the method described above.

Several points on the use of candles. When putting the candle out make sure that the wick does not break (it will be very fragile) as the amount of light the candle will emit is proportional to the length of the wick burning in the flame.

Always ensure that the candle is upright when lit. To accomplish this we suggest the use of a ‘knot of bamboo’ as a candlestick to steady the candle and to collect any unburnt wax.

Good luck!