BeExposed: Issue#03 - Artisan by BeExposed

The definition of Artisan is ‘a worker in a skilled trade, especially one that involves making things by hand’. Over the last few months we have been thinking about creativity as a craft, ditching Adobe, packing up the laptop and cracking out a drawing with good old fashioned paper and pencils and we’ve realised just how much we’ve missed it. We’ve been reminiscing about interning at Couture houses, creating beautiful embroideries and beadwork and feeling that sense of achievement after hours of concentration. We have been talking to artists, musicians, designers and more who haven’t succumbed to the modern way but have stuck to their trade using traditional methods, hand knitting, sketching, beading, developing film and more, the results are genuine, passionate and intriguing. While our previous issue explored the wonders of new technology and the amazing things that can be explored with it, in this issue we have seen the rise of the anti technology artists, people who want to create one off, hand crafted pieces. One such artist is Jessica De Lotz, a jeweler who is well known for her hand stamped and personalized wax seal collection (page 59), then there is Matthew Crocker, a Saville row tailor extraordinaire who shares his experiences in our BeInspired feature on page 19. We have also seen this ethos and way of thinking trending in commercial terms, our columnist Harriet Dixon explores how many clothes we really need in ‘fashion economics’ on page 22. If you read her article and decide that you want to splash some cash anyway then just head over to our ‘Get the look’ shopping edit on page 15 and get inspired with our fashion editorial from page 34. While you are reading all why not take inspiration from our Issue#3 Soundcloud of fusion music, page 68 mixing vintage tracks with new beats to make something cool and soulful. Enjoy the issue!

Tiffany & Helen xx ISSUE3/03

BeHeard

Electro Swing

Features

22 14

Fashion Econmics Alba knitwear interview

Beinstyle Get the look

Beinspired Matt Crocker

CONTRIBUTORS

Harriet Dixon Features writer

holly davies make up artist

From page 22 Harriet’s explores the wonders of “Fashion Economics”

Holly reveals the products needed to get the look from our fashion editorial from page 50.

rakelle maurici fashion writer Read her full interview with Matthew Crocker- Savile Row tailor on page 19-21.

diana patient photographer

mel dawson music writer

We explored Malmesbury with photographer Diana. See our stunning editorial from page 34.

See Mel’s ﬁrst music feature talking all things Electro Swing from page 65.

ISSUE3/05

ROTHERHITHE A1

A RD JAMAIC

QU A

RE Y

A2 00

RD PARK RD

SURREY QUAYS

YM O

EW RD HITHE N ROTHER

E TH RO

2 A2

www.lasercutworks.com

RD ER W LO

D RK R

MOND

SOUTHWAR K

RD YS

LO W

LASERCUT WORKS

ST. JAMES’S RD

At Laser Cut Works we are happy to work with both individuals and businesses alike to see that all of their ideas come to life. We have a background in the architectural and creative industries which means that we have an invaluable insight into the need for quality, timely and within budget results.

DRUM

+44 (0) 20 3441 3374

RD ST. JAMES’S

Call now for a free consultation

CANADA WATER

ARK PA SOUTHW

BERMONDSEY

E EN TH I RH

D WR

SOUTH BERMONDSEY

info@lasercutworks.com

Name: Rupert Smissen Age: 24 Location: London Place of study: Norwich Occupation: Illustrator Aspiration: Old Illustrator

“...I'd say a finished pencil piece takes between 10 and 20 hours..”

From working with big brands such as Topshop and Ray-Ban, Rupert has been making big movements in the world of illustration and being an inspiration to avid graphite lovers. From discovering his work on an illustration website - Tiny Pencil (http://tinypencil.com/) we were struck by his level of accuracy and obsession with trees so we had to uncover the face behind the bark and the hand behind the art. What caught our eye with your work is your attention to detail, realism and use of graphite. These three areas clearly compliment each other and you seem to have a strong confident method of working in this way. Have you always been drawn to creating like this or has it evolved from something else and if so what? I love the idea of craft within creative enterprise, and the set of skills necessary for producing intricate realistic work really appeals to me. Not uncommonly for any illustrator, I've drawn enthusiastically since I was a child, and probably started with pencils, so its great to be able to look back and see that life long arc of improvement. Pencils are incredibly versatile drawing tools, equally capable of beautiful loose marks and refined textural work, so I suppose this range fits perfectly with my sense of craft. What are your three favorite materials to illustrate with and why? I'm particularly fascinated by monochrome work and the texture of various drawing mediums, so my favourite materials are typically pencils and ink, although I do indulge in a bit of digital work once in a while. What is your earliest memory of drawing? I can vividly remember drawing Sonic the Hedgehog, but sadly no examples seem to have survived, so I could well have made that up..

ISSUE3/10

Do you have a set pattern in which you approach your illustrations and if so can you talk us through your process? Commercial and personal work differ when it comes to process, but generally I try to condense an idea into a series of rough sketches before looking for reference to support the final illustration, after which its simply a case of knuckling down and cracking on for a few hours. Occasionally I find odd bits of reference inspiring, either things I've picked up or photos I've taken, and will work these into an image in Photoshop before working from that, but this tends to be a process more suited to my personal work. How long would it usually take you to create a piece Normally, I'd say a finished pencil piece takes between 10 and 20 hours, depending on the size. In the case of my portrait of 'Bonobo', a personal piece, it took a little longer as I was experimenting with incorporating and layering many different textures. I think the most common obstacle for me is getting over the hump of a half finished piece, after the initial excitement of starting it and before the satisfying final stages. What inspires you to select your subject matter to draw? My favourite subjects and sources of inspiration are people and forests. I love drawing figures and faces, and find them endlessly engrossing, but equally I relish the chance to work with natural textures and shapes. I have an obsession with trees as subject matter that seems so ingrained now that I suppose I couldn't really explain it.

ISSUE3/11

ISSUE3/12

What has been your ultimate favorite piece, why and can you talk us though this piece. It’s a bit like having a favourite child this one no? I guess if pushed, I'd say a piece that stands out is the drawing I did of the film 'Hurt Locker' for the Not For Rental exhibition last summer. Its one of my favourite films, and felt like a rare occasion when I knew exactly what I wanted out of the piece, visually and conceptually. After roughly sketching out the idea, I collected reference by watching the film a couple of times, and the drawing itself came together remarkably quickly. Where do you dream to see your illustrations displayed? One of the aspects of illustration I think is especially great is the fact that it can put your work in contexts and situations you wouldn't have thought of yourself. In this respect, I mostly look forward to what a particular project may bring that’s new and fresh. Having said that, I'd love to work on a good old-fashioned album sleeve. What would be your words of advice to young illustrators wanting to walk in your footsteps? In all likelihood, I'd advise them to steer well clear of my footsteps... The old and well-worn adage that hard work pays remains a strong guiding principle, and I see the benefits of that in mine and others work all the time. I am no master, but a decent work ethic gets you a long way. What are you currently working on and what can we expect from you in 2014? I've just finished some spot illustrations for the next Topman zine, and am working on some more fashionoriented drawings, as well as keeping up with my personal series of portraits of various inspiring characters. And of course, looking forward to being door stepped by the next unforeseen project. www.rupertsmissen.co.uk @rupertsmissen Hurt Lock

ISSUE3/13

Meet the BRAND: Alba We caught up with knitwear designer Marcela Abal to talk about her knitwear brand Alba, their ethics and future plans. What is diﬀerent about Alba, what is it’s unique selling point? Alba came from the interest of making a brand that uses the techniques passed on from generation to generation in Uruguay, Alba is about showing the value of the merino yarn and using artisan techniques. We believe that our costumer doesn’t want to buy anonymous products that have been mass produced; they want special products, with history, authenticity and an emotional attachment to the brand. Can you explain a bit more about the wool you source and why? The wool that Alba uses is all from South America, mostly from Uruguay; the merino wool that we use is 17 microns which is one of the softest wools you can get. The best thing about using 100% natural wools is the characteristics that it has; it´s a thermal insulator and absorbs and releases humidity, is biodegradable, its renewable, and allergy free. It has so many good things that make it special that we have to use it. You make all of the pieces by hand, why do you think this is important rather than using machinery? The hand knitting technique is a very old tradition that my grandmother taught me when I was a child. There are a lot of rural women in my country who develop their life around hand knitting and I feel that we should keep using and renovating it, helping the customers understand how beautiful it is.

What are you learning from running your own brand and what advice would you give emerging creatives? Read a lot to open your mind with books and museums that will make you develop new original ideas. The competition is hard, very hard, so you have to demonstrate that what you are offering is new or better or different to what is already out there. Sometimes as designers we forget about how to develop the business side and the marketing around the brand but in reality it’s as important as making the collections. You also have to be involved in every detail, nobody is going to do anything as perfectly as you, because you are the only person who´s priority is the brand. You are also a professional photographer, having worked for fashion brands such as Vivienne Westwood. Do you think your eye for photography has changed the way you design clothing? No, But I think it has taught me which colours to develop or which combinations I should have to make the campaign more interesting. Also because I shoot a lot in Black and White I find contrast and texture is important to me. What is next for the brand? We are working a lot on the new campaign and collection. I am making a video for the brand with one of the best directors that we have in Uruguay, Martin Rivero and Matias Paparamborda which is really exciting. I want to re launch the brand making a focus on the sustainable way of life, showing the process of the product and the knitters that work with me, who are so important. The process of the product and the advantages of using natural yarns. We also have new retailers in Brazil and New York to expand the brand and we are working on taking the brand to London.

‘nobody is going to do anything as perfectly as you, because you are the only person whos priority is the brand’ the alba knitwear logo and pieces from the collection

ISSUE3/14

be 1.

The JEWELLER:

Bill Skinner

During the 1980s with his work attracting critical acclaim Bill began working with Butler and Wilson and Vivienne Westwood, and so began a long association with the world of fashion jewellery. Bill launched his ﬁrst ‘Bill Skinner’ range in January 2012, each piece hand carved by him and his UK studio team. www.billskinnerstudio.co.uk

get the look Vintage need not mean holes and mothballs; get the artisan feel with pretty prints, rich hues and quality fabrics, perfect for country walks and cosy pubs this spring. ISSUE3/15

The UPDATED CLASSIC, WOMENS:

Parka London

Parka London puts the parka on a pedestal; designs are classic yet modernist for free thinking individuals who appreciate timeless design. Parka are ﬁrm believers that it’s the innate details and little quirks that count, this is a mantra that resonates within their team, ensuring a clear separation from the crowd. www.parkalondon.com

The UPDATED CLASSIC, MENS:

Garderobe New Menswear label Garderobe oﬀers sophisticated outwear, chunky knits and suiting for a modern yet classic look. We love the mix of luxurious fabrics and sultry colour palette. www.garderobeclothing.co.uk

The footwear designer:

Jerome C.Rousseau Jerome finessed his design skills for ten years in London and Los Angeles, where he worked alongside Matthew Williamson, John Richmond and John Rocha before launching his own label in 2008. In July 2010, the label was awarded the prestigious “Who Is On Next” accessories prize by Vogue Italia. His interest for design was shaped through art and music. “I started drawing shoes as a teenager after watching a Deee-Lite videoclip. I was influenced by its unique styling, but it was the overstated retro footwear that first caught my attention.” www.jeromecrousseau.com

ISSUE3/16

The VINTAGE BRAND:

The ACCESSORIES BRAND:

Tony's trunks

Rouge Pony

What better way to travel in style than with a vintage trunk, lined with beautiful prints and the leather etched with personality. Try a selection from Tony’s trunks available from A King’s way of life’ for extra style points. www.akingswayoﬂife.com

‘Feather and ﬂower accessories for girls with messy hair and pure hearts’, we can’t wait for festival season to start to try out their feather head pieces too! www.marketplace.asos.com/boutique/rouge-pony

6. The high street heritage brand:

Jigsaw Jigsaw remains a brand which is as quintessentially British as the day the ﬁrst store opened, they have a strong identity inspired by country living, quirkiness and irreverence. This season their oﬀering is sleek, modern and refreshingly feminine. www.jigsaw-online.com

ISSUE3/17

8. The OVERSEAS BOUTIQUE:

Jessica Faulkner A Southern California native, Faulkner embodies a loose elegance and comfort in her own skin and like her, the LA-designed and made label is striking and feminine but with the edge of a woman that takes life by the horns. The collection has a relaxed feel with the always present focus on comfort and airy fabrics; these are timeless pieces that are versatile and polished with a touch of vintage. www.marketplace.asos.com/boutique/jessica-faulkner

The lustworthy label:

Sophie Hulme

Originally from London, Sophie graduated in 2007 from Kingston University with Student of the Year and Best Collection awards. Best known for her armoured tote bag her label can now be found in high end department stores and boutiques around the world. Her designs have an emphasis on hardware and detailing with a sleek, chic aesthetic. www.sophiehulme.com

ISSUE3/18

No.1 Savile Row be

Our contributing fashion writer Rakelle Maurici strutted on down to one of the most famous streets in London, to interview Savile Row Military Manager Matthew Crocker. Customers travel across the globe to have their bespoke attire measured, cut and sewn to sharp perfection. Savile Row has a reputation for a reason as Matthew discusses in his exclusive interview with BeExposed. Could you tell us about the brand’s identity? We are lucky here at Gieves and Hawkes; we always enjoy a challenge and evolve our house style to match not only that of our customers needs but to also stay ahead of the curve. You can walk up and down Savile Row and certain tailors prefer very waisted garments, tight ﬁtting in the middle, with a single button and quite full in the chest. This can then be contrasted to others who prefer less structure and a more elegant ﬂow to a garment, again this being dictated by the client but mostly down to the cutter you work with and their interpretation of your ideas. Gieves and Hawkes have nailed it on the head; we get customers in and treat them all as individuals, we don’t say this is our house style this is our cut. We say ‘What would you like?’ Of course we are here to support, to advise, this is after all a world where there are next to no limits (in bespoke) and opening a customer’s eyes to this is a truly magical process to be a part of. Probably our most eye catching example of this would be the military coatee we produced for Michael Jackson, as seen on his BAD tour.

ISSUE3/19

What things inspire you personally? For my work at Gieves it has to be the past, people like Horatio Nelson, all the big names in history but at the other end of the spectrum designers such as Paul Smith; he is the main reason I am in tailoring. I studied fashion at sixth form where I undertook many diďŹ&#x20AC;erent projects and thought this is quite good fun, designing a collection of clothes, the making of them and wearing them. One of my projects was about Paul Smith and his identity and what his outlook on design was and how he started, I just got inspired. Also, fortunately enough; my grandparents were all tailors so I had the background there already so it followed through in the blood. My main inspiration these days is literally anything and everything when I am out on the streets, I have always got a pen and paper with me, always drawing. My other half gets so frustrated with me... Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s either Instagram or drawings! Horatio Nelson

ISSUE3/20

What challenges are you faced with being the longest serving tailor on Savile Row, does that make it easier or harder?

What for you is the most important part in a bespoke suit? Shoulders and chest. Shoulder ﬁt and how it sits on the collar, I prefer it tighter on the collar. If the shoulders and chest are right the rest drapes beautifully. Whenever I make my own clothes I always use a heavier canvas, I have quite a big chest and naturally small waist which is harder to tailor for with light cloths but looks good, heavy on the top and slender in the middle.

I think it depends on the interpretation, so like you say we are very lucky to have this address ‘No. 1 Savile Row’ this has always been a great asset and what a building to call home, truly beautiful. We have recently had a new creative director join and he and our team our doing fantastic work to change the visual side of things, store, branding etc but also the collections, this seasons clothes are truly stunning and go back to proper tailoring enabling you to mix up your wardrobe and impress in any circumstance. We are lucky to be one of a few tailors on Savile Row to have all four levels of service, the ‘Ready to Wear’, the ‘Made to Measure’, the Bespoke and not to forget the Military. I guess our biggest challenge is enticing and educating the younger generation whilst maintaining and providing for the older generation, our customer base is very broad and for this we are very proud.

We have been told you have done commissioned tailoring for the Royal family, could you tell us a little bit more about this? I can’t give you too much information! But from the walls here you can see most of them (the newly refurbished Robert Gieve Room at No.1 Savile Row) We are very fortunate with our clients here and treat them all equally, after all everyone deserves a well ﬁtted suit.

What are your biggest achievements? So far, getting here! I have worked at Gieves for just under three years, starting at the Bath store and baing head hunted up to London for Sales. Then a position came available to run our Military department and I thought, why not me?! Fortunately enough I had undertaken training in the bespoke process and have a huge passion for our armed services which may have helped. What advice would you give to others wanting to create something of this status? Take your time. Do not settle for anything you are not happy with or wouldn’t wear yourself.

Photography David Snell

ISSUE3/21

Words by Harriet Dixon For most of us, our budgets are the primary factor when it comes to choosing pieces to update and reinvent our wardrobes. Beyond our economic restraints, there are other factors at stake; not least, the ethics behind where our clothes from, which sits heavily on our moral conscience. But against the mass of cheaply produced (often poor quality) fashion lining the rails of every high street, there is a new surge of individuals rebelling against fast fashion: they are investing in high quality garments which may not be ‘on trend’ but are classic staple, durable pieces. As well as this, the increasing popularity of a ‘make do and mend’ ethos has evolved as a way of treasuring vintage and loved pieces and ﬁghting the tide of commercial fashion with its focus on a ‘one season wear’ mentality. Ever since the recession hit in 2008 and left a

Fast fashion vs. investment pieces: it’s the modern day dilemma when it comes to styling our wardrobe. shell-shocked Britain in its wake, there has been a notable shift in our society’s shopping habits; an inevitable carefulness and wariness as the threat of redundancies loomed large and the future seemed at best bleak, at worst catastrophic. A wander down any high street is enough to show how much the shopping landscape has irrevocably changed over the past few years. However, despite the recession undoubtedly being a catalyst in inﬂuencing our bargain-hunting consumer habits, the rise of ‘fast fashion’ and with it, an attitude of wastefulness, has been evolving since the early 2000s. Primark is often seen as the epitome of this; its mind-boggling proﬁts against a backdrop of despair on the high street signify how it has captured the zeitgeist - in April 2013 it reported a +24% year-on-year increase in sales. However, as the economy begins to show signs of recovery and the number of high-street closures slows, inevitably the consumer mindset has also begun to change. Despite economic pressures remaining for many of us, individuals are questioning

the homogeny the high street oﬀers (who wants to look like a Topshop mannequin?) and seeking alternative ways to keep their wardrobes fresh and exciting, but crucially not necessarily through new purchases. It is fascinating to observe the metamorphosis our society’s attitude towards clothes has taken from one generation to the next. My mum recalls how, growing up in the 70s, there were “far fewer clothes shops aimed at teenagers. There were only 2 main seasons, summer/winter, with a few variations for spring and autumn. Prices were high relative to income. Sales happened twice a year; there were no mid-season oﬀers. We saved up for things; because of the static nature of stock, this was possible. No-one expected to have many clothes – girls at school with more than 2 decent dresses were considered spoilt.” Sobering thoughts indeed when I often prioritise buying a ‘must have’ Topshop jumper over feeding myself... Compare this to the speed at which catwalk trends are translated onto the high street now; our patience for fashion has diminished as we expect imitations

to be readily available at an aﬀordable price. Arguably, the ﬁnancial independence which my generation of women enjoy is a contributing factor to the frivolous nature of our shopping habits. The rise of celebrity culture can also be held accountable for our obsession with being ‘on trend’; newsstands are packed with magazines showing beautiful women in outfits which inspire us.

an experts opinion on make do and mend, lottie dodd from alterations and repais company Is that sew? www.isthatsew.co.uk

My friend, Katherine, is an advocate of the new, careful consciousness about clothes; she has installed ‘no buying’ bans on herself for up to 6 months at a time. She says of this experience “I thought it would be difficult but it was easy and so liberating, I stopped shopping to entertain myself and did other things instead. I didn't really miss having new clothes; I just got creative with the clothes I already had. When the 'ban' lifted I found that beyond a couple of things I found out I really needed or wanted to replace I didn't actually want to go shopping like I used to.” Inspired by the sewing machine she was given for Christmas, she has decided to ban the buying of any new clothes until September; instead, she will “alter and refresh the clothes I already have and learn how to make the clothes I actually want to wear, that actually fit all of my body parts rather than just a few 'key' areas”. It seems that thrift and craft are the orders du jour, just look at the popularity of the BBC’s ‘Great British sewing bee’. “I often prioritise buying a ‘must have’ Topshop jumper over feeding myself...” I’ll readily admit that in the past I’ve been guilty of buying cheap items with little consideration of their longevity, but recently I have found myself making more considered purchases; deliberating not just over price but the quality and trans-seasonal potential of an item. Although fast fashion’s ubiquity on the high street shows no signs of abating, waves of individuals are rejecting its influence, whether it be through learning practical skills to makeover old, loved pieces, scouring flea markets and vintage shops for unique items, or saving up towards a Mulberry handbag or Burberry trench. These individuals are adopting a consciousness in their relationship with clothes; a more responsible, respectful viewpoint of where our clothes come from, a renewed expectation of how long they will last and a move away from trend-led fashion. Turn overleaf for ideas on ‘fashion economics’, how to style the week with just a few key pieces.

I have always had a passion for sewing in some form or another. I was taught to cross stitch when I was 9 and made many things with my Mother and Grandmother. I have gained over the years (A-levels, HND & BA Hons). All of which led me back to the start and into a 2 year apprenticeship in tailoring with my now business partner Trish Emery. She is an ex-military tailor and has been sewing for more than 30 years. As embroidered textiles were a huge part of my degree our skills overlap perfectly in the work that we do! Tailoring and sewing as a profession in general is no longer being widely taught, in the future we intend to set up an apprenticeship to give young and talented individuals the opportunity to learn without necessarily having to go into higher education. Most of our alterations are for practical purposes for example to get the maximum life out of an expensive or treasured item. When people do bring clothes from the high street to have repaired or adjusted a phrase I hear fairly often is “well it only cost… to begin with”. Due to this we are not often asked to repair or alter high street purchases as the alteration may cost the same as replacing with something new. Unfortunately it is somewhat of a false economy when things fall apart or loose shape after only a couple of washes. However when I go shopping on the high street I’m a bit of a nightmare for checking labels. You will often hear me saying “that’s lovely but I’m not paying £X for a dress made from polyester/nylon/etc…”. It’s not that I refuse to wear these materials; I just refuse to pay over the odds for something that is made poorly from cheap fabric. Unfortunately, making clothes from scratch is no longer the cheaper option in terms of materials and supplies and people no longer have the skills that our parents’ generation would have learned in school. Alterations, repairs and re designs are the way forward and people are starting to become aware of the possibilities!

ISSUE3/24

The boyfriend jeans

Mint and navy jersey skirt, COS

Fashion Economics

Ripped and distressed jeans, H&M

The sporty pencil skirt

if you feel inspired to be more economical with your clothes why not try working your key pieces in different ways. staple items can create combinations you may never have thought of and taking polaroids will also help you remember the looks next time you have â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;nothing to wearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

The boyfriend jeans

Mint and navy jersey skirt, COS

Fashion Economics

Ripped and distressed jeans, H&M

The sporty pencil skirt

The jumper Grey jumper with contrast cotton collar and chiďŹ&#x20AC;on back, H&M

The floral dress Fitted ďŹ&#x201A;oral dress, Oasis

you only need a couple of other items and accessories to make hundreds of outfit combinations. try layering items up for unexpected combinations such as evening dresses over casual tops. something sparkly always lifts an outfit and can make something simpler office to evening ready.

The jumper Grey jumper with contrast cotton collar and chiďŹ&#x20AC;on back, H&M

The floral dress Fitted ďŹ&#x201A;oral dress, Oasis

Dancers as well as models, these stunning sisters woke the town of sleepy Malmesbury to pose for our heritage fashion editotrial. Whilst melting the camera lense with their lustrous, firing hair and innocent eyes, we managed to ask them a few questions about life, style icons and addictions...

Age: 20 Occupation: Model/Dancer/Cocktail Waitress/All Saints Stylist (I'm very busy!) Place of study: Leicester College of Performing Arts Where you live: London Modeling Agency: Alan Sharman My life is... all over the place. Most of the time I'm hectically running around London, but if I have a rare day off you'll probably find me slobbing around at home not doing anything at all! It's one extreme or the other. The craziest thing I have to do on a shoot is... posing on top of a chair, which was on top of a car; the idea was to make it look like I was falling from the sky. I had no idea at the time how it was going to look but the images turned out amazing! My perfect day would be… spent in a hot country somewhere, probably on a beach with an endless supply of cocktails, good friends and good music! Not having to think about work or the rest of the world for 24 hours. My style icon is…the Olsen twins, they nail it every time, boho-chic and almost always black.. I love black! I also love Rihanna's laid back but still edgy style. I keep healthy by… going gym and dance class. I pretty much eat what I like most of the time, as I hate being too strict on myself. Although if I'm feeling like I need a bit of a boost I'll give myself a little detox where I'll cut out coffee and tea and just drink green tea and eat lots of veggies for a week or two. My best beauty tip would be... wash your face! I can never go sleep in my makeup as my skin suffers horribly the next day. No matter what time I get in I always take my makeup off and cleanse my face. I am addicted to... wine! I need to stop and just limit myself for weekends! Also velvet. If I see anything black and velvet in a shop I'll immediately buy it. Where do you see yourself in 10 years… hopefully still doing something I love and being successful at it. Maybe in a nice hot country somewhere, but who knows! I'm more of a 'live for the moment' kind of girl. I try not to worry about the future too much, what happens happens! If I weren’t modeling I would be… focusing on my dancing career more.

ISSUE3/32

Age: 22 Occupation: Dancer/Model Place of study: LCPA Where you live: Leicester Modeling Agency: Alan Sharman My life is… hectic! I'm always busy; I like variance within my life so it's never boring! I like to be active, try new things; I'm always up for something new. The craziest thing I have to do on a shoot is... I had to stand on a box in the middle of a huge lake! In the middle of winter!! In wellies! The photos did look amazing, but that was a challenge! My perfect day would be… hmm probably a private ﬂight to Australia, chilling on the beach, play volley ball with some good looking Australian men! See the opera house! Haha, have a shop, and some cocktails that would be pretty awesome! My style icon is… Ahh there's lots but I do love Victoria Beckham, she is so classy! I keep healthy by... I maintain a healthy diet, lots of green veg, drink plenty of water, but still enjoy a pizza on a Saturday night! I dance, go to the gym and run! I have also recently joined bikram yoga, it's great! My best beauty tip would be… Tee tree oil! I don't often get spots or blemishes, but when I do I put pure tee tree oil on before bed, and by morning they are nearly gone! I am addicted to... Cadburys fabulous ﬁngers! Once the box is open it's gone within minutes! Where do you see yourself in 10 years... hopefully still dancing and modeling, however I have a lot of business ideas, which I would like to pursue. I would love to own my own gym and have a fashion label. If I weren’t modeling I would be... probably a fashion designer, in my spare time I like to design and make clothes! I love it!

ISSUE3/33

Miguel de Cervantes

PHOTOGRAPHY: DIANA PATIENT PHOTOGRAPHERS ASSISTANT: BEAU SCARLETT PITT MODELS: CHELSEA THORPE SOPHIE THORPE PERDRO RABELO RYAN HARRIS BRANDON CROSS HAIR AND MAKE UP: HOLLY DAVIES STYLING: BEEXPOSED STYLISTS ASSISTANT: VICTORIA RICHER HART LOCATION: CRUDWELL CHURCH

DRESS: EMMA JANE LORD

Virtue is the truest nobility

Miguel de Cervantes

DRESS: EMMA JANE LORD

Virtue is the truest nobility

ISSUE3/36

ISSUE3/37

CHELSEA WEARS: FLORAL BODYSUIT: EMMA JANE LORD, KNIT DRESS: ALBA, NECKLACE: FIONA PAXTON, BELT AND FUR: STYLISTS OWN SOPHIE WEARS: PLASTIC FLOWER PRESS SKIRT: EMMA JANE LORD, JUMpER: ALBA, NECKLACE: FIONA PAXTON, BAG: STYLISTS OWN

ISSUE3/40

SOPHIE WEARS HOODED TOP: EMMA Jane LORD, TROUSERS: TIFFANY BARON. CHELSEA WEARS SKIRT AND TOP: EMMA Jane LORD AND HAT: STYLISTS OWN

from left to right: pEDro, RYAN AND BRANDON ALL WEAR A SELECTION FROM ANDREW MCLAREN

From Left to right BRANDON WEARS: LATEX JACKET, BRADLEY SNOWDEN PEDRo WEARS: wool ALL IN ONE SUIT, BRADLEY SNOWDEN. RYAN WEARS: DRAPED LEATHER AND JERSEY TOP, SANCTUS

ISSUE3/44

chelsea and sophie wear: TASSEL necklaces and cotton and leather skirts from why so serious ryan, pedro and brandon wear: a selection from shauni douglas

ISSUE3/47

ISSUE3/48

DRESS: BEAU SCARLETT PITT, TASSEL BOOTS: Jean Michel Cazabat

ISSUE3/49

Get The Look “No MAkeup”

Photography: Diana Patience Makeup and words: Holly DAvies

The whole feel for this editorial is very fresh and angelic but with a dark grungy edge. The theme has a periodic 'game of thrones' hierarchical feel making the looks completely on trend for Spring Summer 14. These looks

day glow' and

represent tends such as '

'cc thru'. I have listed my favourite

products for each look to recreate and a step by step of how to create them! For the ﬁrst look, I created a

'no

makeup' look with beautiful fresh

dewy skin, well-groomed brows and naturally blushing cheeks. The lip colour was also kept very natural taking a slightly darker colour than their natural lip colour for a bitten lip look.

ISSUE2/13

6..

Here are some of products I used to create this look: Remember for this look it's all about the skin prep, so make sure you firstly cleanse the skin thoroughly. My absolute favourite at the moment is Mac Lightful softening lotion (1); it's amazing to smooth the texture of rough or flakey skin leaving it feeling clean and bright. It also has green seaweed and vitamin c to replenish skin cells. Moisturise the skin thoroughly, use a serum if the skin is extra dry and finish with a good primer, the one I have used is Mac natural Radiance (2) perfect for that dewy glow even for oily skin.

8..

Use a natural looking base such Mac face and body to even out skin tone, perfect for all skin types. I then add a little concealer such as Mac moisture select (3) to hide any blemishes or under eye circles without it being too heavy. Apply with Mac 193 brush (4). Then powder using MAC's new CC loose powder (5), which is used to neutralise skin tones. I used the yellow one to counteract the redness I have on my face called 'neautralize’. For the eyes use clear brow set (6) to groom the brows into shape with a little eye shadow powder if you have gaps such as Mac 'cork' (7) making sure you don't use too much, remember this is a natural look! Finish with a lick of brown mascara such as Mac 'lofty brown' (8) just to enhance the lashes. Then add a little blush to give some colour to the cheeks. I have used Mac mineralise blush in 'petal power' for a natural glow. (9) Finish the look by adding a natural lipstick near to your own lip colour I used Mac 'Shanghai spice' for a peachy pink tone. (10) Finished oﬀ with a gloss such as Mac creme sheen gloss in 'boy bait' (11).

3..

4.. 7.. 11..

1..

10.. 2..

9..

5..

Get The Look â&#x20AC;&#x153;Gothic Angelâ&#x20AC;?

Photography: Diana Patience Makeup and words: Holly DAvies

For the second look I have created a slightly grungier look but still keeping the skin and eyes fresh- think gothic angel. I have used contouring to strengthen the cheekbones, paired with a strong deep berry lip to give a pop of colour.

Start this look by moisturising the skin well, I used Mac studio moisture fix (1). Spend about 5 minutes working the product in, almost giving a mini facial to get the blood to the surface of the skin. This will give a natural glow to the skin before starting the makeup. Then use Mac CC colour corrector in 'neautralize' (2) to get rid of any redness or pigmentation. 'Adjust' is great for darker skin tones, work a small amount of product only into the areas you need and pat in gently. For the foundation I used Mac studio sculpt (3) which is a gel-based formula with medium coverage, great for a dewy glossy finish. I then contoured the cheekbones to give a 3D effect and to help sculpt the face to give more structure. I did this using Mac extra dimension mineralise skin finish in 'fairly precious' (4). To apply I used a duo fibre brush Mac 187 (5) great for both liquid and powders and buffed it underneath the cheekbones and up on the temple. To accentuate the contour I added a creme highlighter, Mac 'hush' (6) to make the cheekbones pop and shine- this looks great in photos! To finish; if your skin is slightly oily use a translucent powder just along the t-zone. For the eyes I used a colour that I absolutely adore! It is a very unconventional colour and doesn't look that pretty but on the eyes it is beautiful. It is almost a mustard colour and looks beautiful on blue and green eyes. It just gives a soft contour to the eyelid giving more definition. Apply to the eye crease using a large blending brush. The product is Mac Prolong wear eye shadow in 'uninterrupted' (7) Finish is by defining the eyelashes with a few coats of Mac 'extra dimension' mascara for instant volume and curl (8). The focus of this look is the lips so to make sure they are perfect use a lip primer such as Mac Prep and Prime lip (9) and then a liner to outline the shape. I used Mac 'night moth' liner which is a deep berry colour (10) and then used a matte lip stick to match. I have used Mac 'diva' matte lipstick (11) and I would advise a matte colour when going for a dark lip as the colour is less likely to run.

10..

3..

6..

4..

11.. 1..

7.. 9.. 2.. 8.. 5..

Meet the designer Beau Scarlett Pitt We met Beau back in September at the Junior Fad awards where her stunning dress beat off the competition to see her awarded first prize at the competition. Beau and her dress then travelled to Wiltshire with us for our editorial where she helped us out behind the scenes giving us a chance to grill her on her inspiration, future plans and the FAD experience. Q. What made you decide to take part in the FAD Fashion Futures workshop? A. It wasn’t really a decision, more of an impulse. I knew that I had a definitive interest in fashion and when by the off chance I came across the competition, I just went for it and applied. I’m so glad I did. Q. What did you learn? Which aspects did you enjoy the most? A. The summer workshop taught me so much. Especially the importance of correct pattern cutting! I must have re-drafted my whole pattern 3 times before I could start sewing.

Q. What was the inspiration behind your dress? A. For my print, corrosion around London such as eroded pavements and tarnished metals were my main inspiration. For the shape, I took a more unconventional approach. The feather shirt collar emerged from ultimate boredom of drawing pigeons in my sketchbook. Bored to the point where I started to draw Boris Johnson’s head onto the pigeon’s body. Q. After being announced the winner at the FAD show have you had much media attention? Do you think these sort of showcases are important to emerging designers? A. I wouldn’t say that I’ve had loads but deﬁnitely more than your average 18 year old. Since the show, I’ve worked with Hasselblad , ShootLDN and of course Be Exposed which have all been really cool opportunities that I don’t think emerging designers get enough of. So yes, I feel showcases like the F.A.D. Junior Awards are extremely important to get your work and your name heard within the industry.

ISSUE3/54

Beau's photo diary behind the scenes of a day shooting our editorial...

Q. What are you doing now/going on to do next? Are you continuing with design? A. Well, I’m currently in the mist of applying for art & design foundation courses to strengthen my creative abilities. After this, I hope it will lead me to a menswear design degree. The social limitations within men’s fashion are enticing and make me want to go on to study it. I wish to, later in life, eliminate the boundary all together to emancipate the male form.

‘The feather shirt collar emerged from ultimate boredom of drawing pigeons in my sketchbook. Bored to the point where I started to draw Boris Johnson’s head onto the pigeon’s body. ’ Q. What advice do you have for other young creative’s? A. My advice would be to go out and grasp as many opportunities as you can. This will allow your creativity to develop and strengthen which is ultimately priceless.

ISSUE3/55

we caught up with f.a.d charity to talk about the work they do with young people to help them learn new skills, gain experience and be offered opportunities within fashion. we had seen exceptional talent from beau scarlett pitt and wanted to hear about their new pupils. Q. How did FAD start and why?

diﬀerent routes; Danielle went to university in Manchester while Kaltrina chose not to go to uni and built up her experience working in retail, so it’s great to see that they have both achieved their ambitions in diﬀerent ways.

A. FAD was started by a group of people who believe that fashion should be an intelligent response to the world around us. We always tell students who are starting with us to remember that they are designing for a person, who has thoughts, feelings and dignity and not a coat hanger! Our ﬁrst undergraduate Competition took place in 2000, and the ﬁrst Fashion Futures was in 2001, since then, we haven’t looked back!

Q . What are the key skills students can learn from a course with FAD? A. Fashion is a fast paced and competitive industry. It’s not just about liking clothes and shopping, it’s about working hard to gain practical skills like pattern cutting and training your creativity to produce design which appeals to your customer. On a FAD course, students learn many practical skills, as well as gaining ﬁrst hand advice and guidance from people who actually work in the industry.

Q. You have a lot of well respected industry members involved in FAD, what do you think appeals to them about working with young people on your courses? A. I think they enjoy being able to use their skills and experience to give back to others. They realise how valuable their knowledge is to young people looking to start out in fashion. Our young people are also very inspiring to be around, I think our workshops create a great atmosphere of creative interaction between people of diﬀerent age groups and backgrounds.

Q. What support do you give to young people after they have completed their course with FAD? A. We keep in touch with many of the young people who take part in our programmes, and they are key to the success of what we do: they help us out as workshop assistants, as front of house or backstage volunteers at events, and as mentors to younger students.

Q. Have you had any amazing success stories you can share? A. Yes, lots, the success of our young people is one of the main things that keep us going! We are really proud of our Fashion Futures alumni Kaltrina and Danielle, who in the past year have both got jobs in Buying at River Island. Both took really

Q. You are part of LFW, how important do you think this sort of high proﬁle fashion event is in the industry and particularly to young designers? A. It’s amazing to be able to show at Fashion

ISSUE3/57

‘Fashion is a fast paced and competitive industry. It’s not just about liking clothes and shopping, it’s about working hard to gain practical skills.’

Scout, as it’s a platform that gives our students great exposure to industry and press. We are really grateful for the support that Martyn and the team at Fashion Scout have given us over the years. Q.We have featured FAD Junior award winner Beau Scarlett Pitt, what was it that you think stood out in Beau’s garment to help her win?

past three years, and have oﬀered some amazing opportunities to our students, from workplace visits and mentoring to competitions and workshops Q. Do you have any exciting new programmes or events coming up you can share with us? A. We are currently working up to the ﬁnal catwalk of our undergraduate Competition at London Fashion Week, it promises to be an amazing show. We are currently working with our 2014 cohort of Fashion Futures students from across London and Greater Manchester, their designs will feature in our September FAD Junior Awards, which will be very exciting for us as we’ll be celebrating the tenth anniversary of the Awards.

A. Beau’s outfit was beautiful, intelligent and witty at the same time. She’d put a lot of thought and creativity into her print, looking at her everyday surroundings with new eyes to come up with the digital design based on rusty railway tracks, a sight that most of us look past every day and just don’t notice. And her juxtaposition of Boris Johnson and the urban pigeon not only summed up London brilliantly, but was also used it to great eﬀect in her feather / white collar neck piece. Beau is a great example of someone who worked really hard and was really committed, she attended every workshop and also worked really hard independently, constantly challenging herself and pushing it to the next level. Q. We know that George at Asda are a key sponsor of yours, how did that relationship come about, why did you choose such a big brand? How have they helped? A. We’ve been in touch with George since 2005, they’ve been supportive since the very beginning of Fashion Futures in its current form. They have been our oﬃcial Fashion Futures sponsor for the

Rhiannon Wakefield became the first menswear finalist to win the FAD Competition at this February’s show

ISSUE3/58

jes

Silvers & golds

An interview with Jessica De Lotz Every piece of jewellery has a story, an emotion, something that we treasure and carry with us through time. As we discover Jessica’s ways of working, we learn that her hand made pieces are created in a different way. They are born out of old memories rediscovered in flea markets and vintage fairs, illustrating the details of our ancestor’s lives through silvers and golds. Magically encapsulating moments that need to be treasured and which were almost forgotten.

Which are your favourite pieces to make and why?

I really enjoy the hands on process of making the relished apple necklaces. The end result is colourful, playful and compliments my signature wax seal pieces, I tend to wear my work layered up. I assemble the chain for the apple in the same way as my others yet the actual creation of la pomme involves several processes. [Firstly casting the apple in 2 halves with 2 part resin, then gluing both sides of the apple together and ﬁling up its shape and then drilling out the apple core hole. I then carefully paint the apple several times, varnish it and then ﬁnally set the cubic zirconia ‘worm’ in the core.

Up a steep set of stairs, tucked away in the middle of Hatton Gardens is where you will find Jessica and the home of her many charmed pieces of jewellery. In a small, perfectly arranged room you can almost hear the 1940’s tea parties and laughter in the air. Rings are scattered around in printer’s trays, necklaces are hanging from teacups and display cabinets. Old postcards, photographs and love letters of past times are proudly framed upon walls, keeping their stories alive and left as inspiration for precious jewellery pieces.

We first discovered Jessica a few years ago when she sold her works in My Sugarland, a vintage boutique in Angel. We instantly fell for her personalised and renowned wax sealed bracelets that are still on our wish list. Jessica now tells us about her inspirational stories that form her work and the exciting collaborations yet to come this year..

ISSUE3/60

s sic “..My ultimate fashion icon is Shiaparelli...”

Each of your pieces has a story, we read about the light switch ring being inspired by pictures from a 1950’s handbag and this lady’s bedroom. Is that your favourite story or can you tell us about another special piece?

That is the story that I hold very dearly to my heart as it is indirectly responsible for the pieces that I make today. That one serendipitous ﬂea market ﬁnd, totally inspired me and helped me to identify what I was truly interested in and from there on, I carved my creative identity around this. Designing and making jewellery gives me the opportunity to create beautiful objects that preserve memories and behold sentimentality. Jewellery is a very personal investment that lasts forever. A recent collection was based on a birthday party in 1941. On e-bay, I’d purchased a bag of birthday cards, letters, even book vouchers and a father’s speech, all belonging to a ‘Gladys Joyce Bowden’ who turned 21 in 1941. I used the jewellery in this collection as the voice to narrate my reinterpretation of this party, starting with the 1st guest arriving and ring on the door.

You make all of the jewellery by hand, can you tell us a bit about the process, how long does one piece take to make?

The time frame varies from piece to piece. As lots of my work is bespoke and personalised, I don’t store stock of each individual initial so I hand stamp the letter as and when the order comes in. From dripping the wax and sealing to ﬁnished piece, it takes me a week a so. Something like the ‘Cocktail Time’ ring is more time consuming due to the little intricate mechanism

ISSUE3/61

ca You have done several collaborations such as the royal wedding with Smythsons. Can you tell about your experience with those and about any other projects you have coming up? The Smythson project was very exciting. I was asked to design a collection to commemorate the royal wedding. Benny my brother and I decided to join forces and we designed several hypothetical crests for Kate & Will and I used these to make the range of jewellery. The team was amazingly supportive and the pieces pretty much sold out. Since I have collaborated with Peroni, alongside Fashion blogger Emily Johnson of Fashion Fois Gras. I have a mixture of collaborations coming up - they couldn’t be more diﬀerent from one another! One with Houndworthy which are a ‘purveyor of Quality Dog Goods’ and the other with Koibito whom create and deliver luxury ‘intimacy kits’ to boutique, luxury and hip hotels.

Your pieces are now being sold in Fortum and Mason so you are obviously doing extremely well, do you have any advice for emerging jewellery designers?

Don’t ponder and pre plan too much, just go for it! Enter competitions that come your way and apply for possible bursaries /grants etc. It is sometimes the ones that you least expect, (and that keep you up all night the day before the deadline) that you reap the rewards from and really help you in the future.

ISSUE3/62

be The 1920's & 30's was a time where Burlesque and Flapper girls controlled the stages of social clubs across the world, a period where 'Swing music' was really in its prime. Now we are pleased to say that Swing is making a comeback in 2014 and is set to sweep music industry moguls oﬀ their feet. Still using elements of production from the swing, jazz, big band era, i.e. loops, samples and melodies. Combining this with deep bass lines and modern beats, it seems that artists all over the world, are starting to appreciate this 'eccentric' genre for what it really is and adopting many element's of 'swing' into their new material. It seems that there is no escaping this rare & individual class of Music. Highly popular in this modern age with artists such as Dita Von Teese and in the creation of movies and television with ﬁlms and programs including Broadwalk Empire, The Great Gatsby and The Artist to name a few.

It was here that spawned the emergence of 'Acid Jazz, Acid Lounge and Nu-Jazz' as very popular exciting genres. Once the 2000's hit, we would play host to a new decade of ever changing 'trendy' music. 'Electro Swing' is deﬁnitely dominating the airwaves on a large scale, with many artists of this genre storming the industry and even receiving chart topping success with their tunes, such as the likes of Yolanda Be Cool, with their 2010 number 1 smash hit, 'We Speak No Americano'. This style of music increases to claw it's way to become one of the worlds most exciting new genres and one that will be a real staple within the music industry. With Electro Swing DJ's showcasing their talents across the UK & all over, playing to crowds of thousands at popular music events including Glastonbury, The Secret Garden Party and Bestival to name a few. This is one genre that we at Be Exposed are hugely excited about and look forward to seeing how the Electro Swing Legacy will evolve over this coming year.

It seems this 'glittering', high ﬂying era is one that many an individual dream to be a part of and that many modern day media and music producers feel the need to 're-create' within their works. Deriving from African rhythms and using European instruments, Jazz and Swing music has always been a pinnacle genre since it's birth in the early 1920's. We witnessed a period where Jazz music 's popularity started to decline due to the birth of a newfangled musical movement. It wasn't until the 1990's that we would start to witness the resurrection of 'Swing' music back into 21st century popular culture. It was within this period we would notice those 'old school' samples, being reworked into modern day House and Lounge music. During this wave of 'New Jazz' music, artists started to become more experimental with their productions and we were even able to see rappers, such as Lucas, (with his track Lucas with the Lid Oﬀ) combine their lyrics with 'Swing' music to create an even newer genre called 'Jazz Rap'.

ISSUE3/65

One band that embodies this style is ChineseMan, (Chineseman Records) a French 'Trip Hop' collective who started their Journey back in 2004. Made up of DJ Marseille Ze Mateo, High Ku, Beatmaker SLY, and additional members Leo the Bug & Yan, ChineseMan are set for huge success over this coming year. Infusing elements across all music types including Hip Hop, Funk, Dub, Reggae and Jazz, these guys showcase their undeniable musical talents to the world. Churning out tune after tune, they continued to work hard and found fame after having their song, 'I've got that tune' chosen as the main music for one of Mercedes Benz' large ad campaigns. With the prevalent use of instruments throughout each of their tracks they push the boundaries of modern day HipHop Swing taking their Jazz and Hip Hop roots to create a unique interpretation that is known as 'Jazz Hop'.

Can you describe your music for the Electro-Swing fans? We are more HipHop swing than Electric, but for one or two tracks like “i've got that tune” or “Artichaut” are a little bit in this mood but our music is more hip hop.

BeExposed managed to catch ChineseMan playing in London’s stomping ground ‘Brixton Electric’. The venue was packed out with ravers from all across Europe hanging oﬀ their every lyric; we had no idea how large their fan base was till this night. In our eyes, ChineseMan will undoubtedly be swallowing up the UK this year with their alternative HipHop Swing sounds, so keep an eye out for their next gig, we recommend you go and check them out.

ChineseMan - Clementine Crochet

ISSUE3/66

When did it all start? Was the genre mix a happy mistake or something you wanted to develop? Happy mistake is a good expression, we were friends together and we were working on music separately. Then one day we all went to the French countryside to spend some time making music and it was not so bad. After that we just tried to do other track then a first 12 and then... What is it about the variation of influences that inspire you to create this style of music? Like we said for us we produce in a Hip Hop vibe and the Hip Hop was born with samples so we just keep working in this way. We can take samples from every kind of music but we try to find some stuff that has not been used too much, that's why you can hear so many influences. What roles do you all play within ChineseMan? We produce altogether, we find a sample, work on the drum on the bass, find some keyboards and so everybody is doing everything. Even though Mateo and High Ku are more DJ's and Sly more on the computer. What can people expect to see from one of your sets? A lot of different styles, Hip Hop, Drum and Bass, Dubstep mix with oldies like 30`s Jazz, old school funk and every kind of influences that we love. Incredible MC's (Youthstar and Taiwan MC) to bring some life on the stage and some crazy videos coming from our video makers Fred and Annabelle. What producers are you inspired by and who are your idols on the music game? DR DRE, DJ Premier, Danger Mouse, Daptones records, Adrian Younge, Lee Perry, Nina Simone.

ChineseMan - BOBY

ISSUE3/67